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LIBRARY

OF THE

MASSACHUSETTS

AGRICULTURAL

COLLEGE

NO._.LkJQjD.T„DATE..9-]§5l5-.

souRCE_Coll£^e ^u_t\a^.

: as,

This book may be kept out

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only, and is subject to a fine of TWO
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Ai'K Vi 11)96

:^vr-

m-

ILLUSTRATED WEEKLY JOURNAL,

OP

HORTICULTURE IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

FOUNDED BY

W. Robinson, Author of the " English Flower Garden.'

" You 6ee, sweet maid, we marry
A gentler scion to the wildest stock ;
And make conceive a bark of baser kind
By bud of nobler race : Tliis is an art
Which does mend Nature, — change it rather : but
The art itself is nature."

Shakespeare.

VOL. XLVII. -MIDSUMMER, 1895.

LONDON :
OFFICE: 3 7, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, CO VENT GARDEN, W.C.

The Garden.

[July 6, 18B5.

c
G- »t

v. 47

TO

EDOUARD F. ANDRE

(of Paris)

THE FORTY = SEVENTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN'

Js bctticatci),

W. R., July, 1895.

Jilt 6, 1895.]

THE GARDEN INDEX

UsTZDZEX TO VOLUME XLVII.

(Illustrations in Italice.)

A.

Abelia fcriflora, 4

Abies pungens glauca 74

Abutilon vitifolmm, 407

Abutilons, --'I

Acacias at Syon House, 1S1

Acanthopanax ricinifolium, 443

Acidantheras 343

Aciphylla Bquarrosa 212

Aconite, the yellow, 236 ; at Alton, 134

Ada aurantiaca, 146

Adiantum Farleyei se, 05

Aerides Fieldingi, 380

Agapetes buxifo.ia, 1S1

a "a, 59
Allium neapolitaiium, 101
Almondsbury, notes from, 200, 316
Almonds, fruiting in Ireland, 31
Anemone rivularis, 407
Alot . Ann r ca ■', 59
Alphu Pink, the, 292
Apple Golden Spire, 464
Alstnemeria pelegrina alba, 351 ; seed, 240
Ala rcemeri s, so, 454
Althaea cannabina, 25 ; caribsea, 25 ; ficifolia,

24 ; hir-utu, 25 ; narbonensis, 2."' ; o

lis, 24 ; officinalis, 25 ; nsea, 25 ; rosea, 25 ;

rosea fi. -/</., 25
Althaeas, 2 1

Am ryllis '■■ lladonna, 46
Amaryllis belladonna, 46; Chiniere, 200;

Doris, 200; Gorgeous, 226; Mis. Monte-

fiore, 190; Prince Edward, 190
Amaryllises at Chelsea, 230
Amasonia punicea, 164
American blight, 194
Amherstia nobilis, 298
Anchusa Barrelieri variegatt, 51
Amlvnmeda fast giata, 4^4 ; mimosa, 296 345
Ai>>iho,i< apcnnina, 292; blanda, 315, 322;

coronai it, 108 ; Japanece, the, and its

varieties, 211; japonica Ilonoriue Jobert,

71 ; narcissiflora, 351
Anemones and the frost, 359
Angnecum fastuosum, 265; fidgrans, 137 •

Leonis, SO ; Sanderianum, 282
Angrsecums, 113
AnoiKanthus breviflorus, 17:<
Anthericum liliastrum, 5 ; majus, 447
Anthurium Andreaniun, 330 ; c impactuni,

260 ; crystallinum, 444 ; Perfection, 123
iiiums, 20
Aotus graciUima, 174

Apple Annie Elizabeth, 217; Armorel, 22;
Barnack Beauty, 34, 17''; ('ox's Orange
Pippin, 24, 113, 198, 894; King of the Pip-
pins. : '.'4 ; d'Any Spice, V44 ; Devonshire
Quarrenden, 125, 171; Karl, 400; Fearu's
Pippin, 410; GascoigDe's t-carlet Seedling,
171 ; Gulden Spire, 410; Irish Peach, 116 .
Juntatimj, 4'--'.'; K>i>;i <<i' t/,, l\rr, ,..;, :;in.
365 ; Lady Sudeley, 112 ; Lane's Prince
Albert, 30, 75; Loddingtra Seedling, ill,
171, 103; Lord Derby, 156; Mannington's
Pearmon, 70, ill, 177; Mere de Menage,
112 ; Newtoa Wonder, 104 ; Northern
Greening, 95; !'■■> good's Nontuch, 177;
Pine-apple Bueset, 287, 329 ; Motto* Pip-
pin, 285; Wamei's Seedling, 242 ; Wellington,
305 ; Winter Peach, 217 ; Winter Queening,
217; blossom, the, 309; weevil, 285, 829 ;
trees, panting young amongst oil, 275;
j-runing dwarf, 440; pruning standard,
371; sta eof, 258

Apples, 171; American p. English 07 ; an 1
canker, 75, III; colour in, 103 242, 257 ;
dessert, 76 ; for eider or market, 409 ; good
cooking, 150 ; g o i late, 39b ; in poor soil,
22 . Ta-man an, L'S?

Apricot, the. 864 ; Breda, 170

Apric its, 3l0, 365 ; good, 170 ; seedling, 243

April in South Devon, 337

Aquilegia, >• wfti U . 875

Aquilegias, 375, 428

Asclepias curassavica, 241, 278

Asparagus be Is, mulching and watering, 421 ;
deflexus, 302 ; field culture, of, 3^1 ; fish
manure for. in spring, 342 ; knife, the, 362,
437 ; new beds, 184 ; notes on, 398 ; plant-
ing, 291 ; plumo&us, 2&0

Asphodels, giant, 359

Aster alpinus superbus, 3S7

Aster eabulicus, 14, 93 ; the quilled German,
47

ATaucarias, greenhouse, 340

Arbutus Henziesi, 209

Amebia echh ides, 240

Artichokes, 431 ; Globe, 235 ; tuberous, 160

Arundo conspicua, 407

Arum, a triple, 445 ; sanctum and A. Eggtri,
20S

Ataccia cristata, 179, 260

Atragene alpina, 351

Aucubas, IS

Auricula Mrp. Mooi . 77 ; the, 322 ; the
show, 77, 108

Auricula?, show, eolou' and form in, 10S

Azalea Anthony Koster, 402; Hcxe, 304;

j, .in, \\ eathers, loo ; linearifolia, 158 ;

molls, 4.4 ; force J, 69 ; ubtusa, 154 ;
rhomb. ca, 345

B.

Baden-Baden, notes from, 270, 351

Balsams, 37 i

Bamboo garden, the, 2, 16

Bamboos and tho frost, 244 ; as conservatory
plants, 13

Bambusa a area, 288; Fortune! foliis aureo-
variegatis, 4tt ; Mutake and the frost, 222 ;
mitis, 32

Barkerias, 282

Baxter, W., the late, 124

Bean, a good forcing 1*5

Bean, French Dwai f. Mohawk, 139 ; Newing-
ton Wonder, 233; Veiteh s Improved Long
I od, 139

Beans, Broad, 101; dwarf or French, 3C3 ;
dwarf, a wa early, 284 ; earl j French, 246;
oarly Broad, 1S9 ; French, 202, S97 ; Hari-
cots or Kidney, 40"> ; late Br ad, 3-3 ;
notes on, 23 - ; Lew moth, d of sowing, 363;
Runner, 283; aucceai-i nal, 398

Beans and Peas, insect enemies to, 155 ;
sowing, i35

Bedd n^' plants, Mr. Samuel Parsons on, 191

Bet ties in the house 334

Beetroot, 431 ; colour in, 10; Crimson Ball,
L85; forcing. 2*4

Begonia Arthur Malet, 40; B. R. Davis,
420; Gloire deSctaux, t8; J. T. Bennett-
Pee, 465; Lucerne, 426; manicata, 205,
231 ; Mont Blanc, 426 ; Prince AdolphuB of
Teck, 465; Rajah, 278 ; Hex. L dy Anne-
sley, 386 ; Masterpiece, 386 ; Samuel Pope,
380; semperfloreus gig-mtea, 205 ; semper-
florens Vernon in the tlofftr garden, 79;
- O trana, 209 ; White Camellia, 386

Begonias, a new race of, 302 ; tuberous, 103 ;
winter-blooming, 20 ; winter flowering at
Fi.rcst Hill, 200

Belladonna Illy, tin', AG

Bentinckia nicobarica, 426

Bermuda Buttercup, 447

U gnonia grandijlora, 373 ; venusta, 205

Bignonias, 373

Birmingham, spring flowers at, 544

B audfoidia aurea, 420

Blftndfprdias, ! 24, 401

Bog Bean, the, 351

Eog plant.-, 109
Boilers and pipes, 182
Bollea Schrcederiana, 225
Books —

"A Dictionary of Horticulture," 43S

"A Handhook to the Carnivora," 4)1

"A Handbook to the Primates," 27

"Dictionary, The Student's English/' 173

"Pern Growing," 277

" F.ora Od .rata, or Sweet-scented Flowers
and Leaves," 45

" German Books on Forestry," 30<5

"Horses, Asses, Zebras, and Mules," 423

"Hoiticultural Handbook and Exhibitor's
Guide, ' 306

" .Japan, the Forest Flora of," 173

" Lea Plantes Bulbeuses de Pleine Terre,"
422

" Life of Richard Owen," 26

" List of Trees and Shrubs in the Kew
Arboretum," 27

" Mamma. 1 , British, a Handbojk to the,"
131

"Practical Forestry,' 65

"The American Chrysanthemum Annual,"
423

" The Fo^k of the Rose," 44

"The Horticulturist's liule Book," 438

" Wayside Ireland," 277

" William Buckland, Life and Corrtspord-
ence of, ' 05
Borecole and Brussels Sprouts 332
Boreco es and their value, 341
Boronia heterophylla, 205 ; terrnlata, 4U0
Bougainviilea spectosa su^erba 296
Bouvardia Priory Beauty, 173
Bouvardias, 48
Box, the common and the winter, 2*1 ; as a

specimen shrub, 345
Brachycome S ucla-rl, 1S7
Brassavola glauca, 390
Brassia verrucosa, 428, 407
Brier hedge, a, 441
British Seaweeds, book on, 352
Broccoli, good in winter, 201 ; late, 201 ; purple

sprouting, 160; Late Queen, 235; notes

on, 41 ; protecting in frames, 80 ; sowing

1 » lv. 234

Brussels Sprouts, dwarf, 284; Dwarf Gem,

185; dwarf v. tall, lul ; flavour in, 42
Buddleia globosa, :>
Bugle, the common, 378
Bu b boxes, 72
Bulbccodium vernum, 71

VI

THE GARDEN INDEX

[Jun 6, 1895.

gardi n at, 206 ; border of

'.( tton
105,

Bulbs, packing, 300

Bulwick, bed in lower garden at, 206; bor
Hue-leaved plants at, 200; carnation I
Rote, a bed of at, 204, covered may at.
ft is bordi r in lorn r garden at, 107

Burlingtonia fragrans, 340

Bute House estate, 310

O.

Cabbage, Ellam's Early, 342; Early Rain-
ham, 300 ; Winnigstadt, 40, 160

Cabbages, 431; bolting in, 363, 420; ea>ly,
398 ; early and other greens, 457 ; Pick-
ling, 13S

Cacti, flowering, 413

Caladium Henry Irving, 386 ; Lord Derby,
386 ; Rose Laing, 386

Caladium s, 27S ; wintering, 20

Calanthe bella, 72; masuca tricarinata, 122 ;
Textori, 85 ; Veitchi, 37

Calanthes at Harrow Weald House, 114 ;
watering, 53 ; wintering, 15

Calceolaria Burbidgci, 306, 340

Calls, setbiopica as an aquatic, 108

Callas, planting out, 414

Calochorti, 354, 370

Caloehortus Lyoni, 426, 4~8; Flumniera?,
SO ; venustus pictus, 465

Calypso borealis, 208

Camassia esculeuta, 387

Camellia reticulata, 279

Camellias in the open air at Windsor, 315 ;
the dropping of buds in, 103, 164 ; casting
their buds, 204; unhea thy, 117

Campanula fragilis, 27S ; patula, 454; pyra-
mi'lalis, 86 ; pusilla, 187 ; Raineri, 20, 51 ;
the great white, 417 ; tridentata, 375 ;
valdensis, 187

Canarina campanulata, 12

Canker and Apples, 75

Carinas, the Gladiolus ■ flowered, 438 ;
wintering, 20

Cantua dependens, 180

Capsicums and Chilies, 1S6

Cardoons, 431

Carnation Corunna, 426 ; Countess of Paris,
14; Cowslip, 465; Duke of York, 128;
George Cmiokshank, 465 ; Lady Ridley,
465 ; notes, 231, 340 ; Zoe, 465

Carnations, Malmaison, 164, 340; Marguerite,
231 ; selected varieties of, 172 ; tree, 163 ;
winter flowering, 181

Carrot, Model, 101; Parisian Forcing, 155;
Veitch's Matjhless, 309

Carrot*, 431, 437 ; early, 160 ; forcing, 202

Carpenteria califoruica, 262, 2S8, 298, 447

Cases for Japanese Lilies, 312

Catalpas and Tulip trees in Yorkshire, 31

Cattleya Aclandiae, 221 ; Bleuensis, S4 ; cit-
rina, 295 ; exoniensis, 51 ; gigas SaDderte,
423; guttata and varieties, 261 ; labiata,
90; Lawrenceana, 2S1, 300; atro-rubens,
386; Lemoniana, 168; luteola, 321; Men-
deli, 353, 407 ; Dellensis, 3Sri ; grandis,
386 ; var. leucoglossa, 340 ; Princess of
Wales, 340; Mosshe, 381 ; Lady F. Wigan,
3S6 ; Pereivaliana, 15, 137 ; magnifica, ISO ;
Schilleriana, 411; fcchrcederce, 2S2, 315;
Skinueri alba, 300 ; epeciosissima, 37 ;
superba alba, 425 ; Trianje, SO, 105, 225 ;
at Southgate, 2S2 ; Warscewiczi Lord
Rothschild, 465

Cattleyas, notes on, 175, 449

Cauliflower, a good summer, 300 ; Autumn
Giant, 272 ; Dwarf Erfurt, 101 ; early, 456.
458 ; Pearl, 201 ; Veitch's Extra Early
Forcing, 43S

Cauliflowers, 421 ; early, 233, 2S4, 341 ; grubs
in, 437 ; notes on, 130 ; small early, 233 ;
summer, 235

Ceinothuses under glass, 205

Cedar, the Deodar, 55

Cedars of Lebanon at home, 443

Celeriac, 363, 431

Celery and moisture, 101; and the season,
40 ; culture, 40 ; Leicester Red, 80 ; Man
of Kent, 342 ; running to seed, 234 ; Stan-
dard-bearer, 101

Celeries, twojiood, 160

Ccelogyne cristata (Chatsworth variety), 00 *
alba, 145, 203, 204; Dayana, 316; lenti-
ginosa, 282 ; Massangeana. 176: pandurata,
332, 347, 3S0

Ctelogyues at Minchinhampton, 192

('< ntaurea moschata, 435

Cerasus Mahaleb, 366

Ccrasus pseudo-cerasus, 351 ; sinensis pen-
dula rosea, 298

Chamarops excelsa and Dracana austral is at
Paignton, Devon, 312

Chamterops excelsa in Devonshire, 312; in
Surrey, 333

Chords or Spinach Beet, 432

Cherry, the Black mart, Hi ; St. Margaret, 171

Cherries, sweet, 21 ; twogood, foranuuhea ed
house, 462

Chester, notes from, 352, 38S, 424, 446, 468

Chicago, carpet gardening at, last expression
of, 3S ; absurd gardening in, 31

Chicory, 431

Chilies and Capsicums, 186, 437

Chimonanthus fragrans, flowering shoot of,
?oi

Choisya ternata, 270

Christmas Roses, 105, 330, 358 ; failing, 311

Chrysanthemum, a, from Japan, 318; Black
Prince, 0 ; blooms, standard of, 264 ;
Boule do Neige, 12S ; Bouquet de Dame,
9, 57 ; catalogue, 104 ; Duchess of York,
213 ; Etoile de Lyi n, 58 ; flowers, depth
io, 213, 362; Golden Wedding, 9, 58;
Jeannctte Sheaham, 50 ; King of Plumes,
32 ; La Belle Blonde, 236 ; M. Gruyer,
236; Mme. Bergmaun, 14; Mme. Ther-se
Rey, 446 ; Miss Dorothy Shea, 58 ; Miss
Cannell, 236; Mrs. F. Thomson, 214;
notes, 214, 318, 417; Rev. W. E. Dewfrey,
23S ; Rider Haggard, 161; the, grown for
specimen plants, 127 ; Vaucanson, 57 ;
Viviand Morel, S ; Viviand Morel, Hoieers of,
S ; W. H. Lincoln, 104, 128, iei, 213 ;
Zawadskyi, 447

Chrysanthemums, American nomerclature,
31S ; Anemone-flowered, 161 ; Boule de
Neige and Ethel, 104 ; broad -pe tailed
Japanese, 120 ; cultural notes, 58 ; cultural
notes on, 236, 446 ; for market, 55 ; for the
new year, 58 ; good January, 103 ; in
America, 146 ; in the Temple Gardens, 352 ;
M. Calvat's new, 318 ; new American, 317 ;
new single, 458 ; notes on recently intro-
duced varieties, 317 ; outdoor blooming,
264 ; prices of new, 31S; raising seedlings,
317 ; recent, 446 ; recently introduced
varieties, 263 ; single, 363 ; specimen
trained, 214 ; striking, 53 ; the Teck family
in midwinter, 0 ; the Temple, 400 ; too
long names of, 318 ; with a single stem, 104

Chrysobactron Hookeri, 6

Churchyard, a beautiful, 312

Chysis, 245

Chysis bractescens, 300, 347

Cirrhopetalum robustum, 425

Clemitis coc inea, hybrids, 354 ; Duchess of
York, 386 ; indivisa lobata, 262 ; indivisa
and Niphetos Rosa, 444

Clerkeuwell, a new recreation ground for,
210

Climber, a useful, 134

Climbers, evergreen, the noblest of, 252

Clivia Right Hon. J. Chamberlain, 260 ;
Model, 226

Clivias, 333

Coal, anthracite, 142

" Cubbett's Gardening," 316

Colchicum montanum, 20S

Collins, the late Chas., 52; fund, the, 192

Comparettias, 175

Coneflowers, 418

Conservatory stages, living edges for, 67

Corydalis cava var. a'biflora, 47

Cordyline australis purpurea, 211

Coreopsis grandiflora, 7, 31

Correa cardinalis, 401

Corydalis nobilis, 321

Costus speciosus, 166

Covent Garden Market, 72

Crab v. Paradise, 67

Crataegus coccinea, 143

Crickets, destroyi- g, 370

Crinum crassi folium, 407

Crocus Imperati and C. biflorus, 209 ; Sie-
beri, 227

Crocuses at Long Ditton, 240 ; notes no, 313

Crops, crowing for profit, 1S2 ; the frost and
the, 185

Crotons, decorative, 303 ; in small pots, 103 :
old plants of, 294

Crucianella stylosa coccinea, 107

Cucumber Ne Plus Ultra, 139

Cucumbers and Gherkins, 404 ; frame, 284
363 ; profitable, 2S4

Cultivation, value of deep, 437

Cuonioghamia sinensis, 223

Cup:es;us nutkaensis lutea, 65

Currants and Gooseberries, summer pruning
of, 410 6

Cuttings, striking, 153

Cyclamen, a white, 379; culture, 403; persi-
cum, 378 ; Persian strain of, 50

Cyclamens at Hornham Cliff, 206; Persian,
at Farnham Royal, 279 ; at Syon House,
174 ; hardy, 72

Cycnoches chlorochiloa, 436 ; peruvianum,

Cymbidium eburneum, 229, 281 ; eburneo-
Lowianum superbum, 122 ; Lowianum, 15,
89, 176 ; Traceyanum, 53 ; viride, 263 ;
Winnianum, 54

Cypripedium albo-purpureum superbum,
liS; Ashburtonire expansum, 204; bar-
baturn Warnerianum, 137 ; bellatnlum,
353; album, 425; Boxalli, 170; atratutn,
16; calanthum, 390; callosum subhsve,
16; superbum 37; caudatum, 265, 3S9,
435; Chamberlainianum, 220; Charlts-
worthi, 252 ; concolor, 204 ; Curtisi, 15
Dturyi, 220; Elenor, 425; Elltottianum,
320; Fowlerianum, 189 ; Frati Ida Brandt,
425 ; Gertrude Hollington, 340 ; Gudefroya;
leucocbilum, 340 ; Godsetfianum, 176 ;
Goultenianum, 37 ; Goweriauum magnifi-
cum, 295 ; Harrisiannm nigrum, 265 ;
Henry Graves, jun., 40 ; insigne, 37 ; of

the Sandene section, 11 ; varieties, 89 ;
J. H. Berry, 49; Lalhamianum, 37; Lee-
anum supeibum, 15; Lindleyanum, 2S2 ;
macropterum, 349 ; Mimosa superbiens,
49 ; nitons superbum, 49 ; Mme. Georges
Truffaut, 49 ; Mme. Jules Hye, 49 ; Mor-
gania;, 137 ; langleyense, 2S2 ; Mrs. Fred.
Har iy, 40, 54 ; Norma, 49 ; Olenus, 225 ;
Fhilippianum, 411 ; purpuratum, 89 ;
Roezli, 54 ; Ro4ischildianum, 390 ; selli-
gerum atro-rubens, 281 ; species at St.
Albans, 89 ; Spiceiianum, 15 ; Stonci
platytamiurn, 3S6 ; Vesta, 37 ; villcsum
aureum, 202 ; Youngianum superbum, 16 ;
Zeus, 221

Cypripediums, hardy, 220, 351 ; hybrid, 90,
170 ; twin-flowered, 11 ; two hardy, 387

Cyitanthus obliquus, 426

Cytisus praecox, 332 ; purpureus, 38S ;
tchipkpensis, 454

D.

Daffodil bloom in the south of Ireland 323 ;
Grandis or Grandee, 357 ; Queen of Spain
in the grass, 316; show at Birmingham,
314

Daffodils, 262 ; as cut flowers, 328 ; at Kew,
315 ; at L'jng Ditton, 321 ; autumn or
winter, 114; for forcing and pot culture,
13 ; in the grass, 240 ; in pots, 106 ; in a
vase, 32S ; on the seeding of, 267 ; seedling,
338, 376, 417

Daisies, double, 379 ; Michaelmas, selecting
the finer, 90 ; red and white, 28

Dandelion, 430

Daphne Blagayana, 251, 336 ; Gcnkwa, 270 ;
rupestris, 1S7, 202

Decorations, tab'.e, 460

Delphinium Beauty of Langport, 426

Deudrobium Ainsworthi, Si; Apollo grandi-
florum, 1S9 ; atro-violaceum, 2S2 ; Auguste
Victoria, 2S2 ; aureum, 15 ; Brymerianum,
221 ; capill pes, 281 ; Cassiope Ashworthi,
189 ; Cordelia, 225 ; Dalhomianum, 300 ;
Dominianum, 37 ; Donnesiae, 225 ; euos-
mum virginale, 189 ; Falconeri, 412 ; fim-
briatum superbum, 295 ; Hildebrandi, 205 ;
illustre, 465 ; inversum, 465 ; japonicum,
222 ; lutcolum, 105 ; McCarthy, 137 ; mos-
chatum, 447 ; nobile, 15, S5 ; and its
varieties, 229 ; elegans, 54 ; nobilius, 37 ;
Phahenopas Schnederianum, 51, 281 ;
rhodostomum, 204 ; Rolfse roseum, 265 ;
Schneiderianum, 225 ; splendidissimum,
225 ; suavissimum, 347 ; thrysiflorum, 354 ;
Wardianum, 36, 241 ; album, 204 ; Wardi -
7i um, 84

Dendrobiums, 202 ; at Cheltenham, 170 ;
from Cheltenham, 2o4 ; hybrid, 51 ; sickly,
202

Derbyshire, notes from, 15S

Desfontainea spinosa, 14

Devon, South, 1S04 in, 76 ; December in, 29 ;
January in, 132 ; February in, i06 ; Maich
in, 261

Dianthus atpinus, 292; callizonus, 407

Dimorphanthus mandschuricus, 444

Doronicum plantaginewn Harpur-On »''.', 269

Dracana australis and Chamcerops exctlsa at
Paignton, Devon, 312 ; unhealthy, 165

Dracaena Godseffiana, 351, 38d

Durham, fcouth-east, severe weather in, 124

Echtveria retusa, 13

Echinocactus aureus, 465

Edelweiss, 91

Elseocarpus cyaneus, 445

Elecampane, the, 6

" English Flower Garden, the," 32

Epidendrum bicornutum, 382 ; cochleatum,

113 ; O'Bricnianum, 175 ; roseum, 349 ;

polybulbon, 54 ; Stamfordiauum, 381 ;
WaUisi, 436
Epigiea repens, 212, 322, 452
Epilubium obcordatum, 467
Epiniediurn niveum, 29S
Eppiug Forest, 210, 315
E ran them, uni'pulchellum, 1C6 ; tuberculatum,

303
Eremostachys laciniata, 467
Eremuri, 359
Eremurus robustus, 428 ; robustus and

Hsemanthus Kalbreyeri, 407
Erica caffra nana, 164 ; carnea, 227, £03 ;

ciliaris alba, 45S ; codonodes and the

cent frost, 236
Erythronium Hartwegi, 315
Escallonia Philippiana, 467
Esher Place, rare trees at, 162
Eucalyptus globulus, 124
Eueharis, bottom heat for, ISO ; Stevens!,

190
Eulophiella Elizabcthae, 2C5
Euonymus, evergreen, 222
Eupatorium Weinmannianum, 444
Eupatoriums, 444
Eurya latifolia variegata, 55

Evergreens, deatli of, 223 ; fair weather, 162 ;

native, 54
Exochorda grandillora, 388

Fein walls, Orchids on, 412

Ferns for a wal', 21S ; hardy, 266; lardy
exotic for the wild garden, 217 ; Maiden-
hair, grubs infesting, 218; variega*ed for
the warm hou=e, 87; variegate 1 for the
conservatory and cold fernery, 95

Fig, St. John'p, 215 ; trees, 286

Figs, planting in the open, 310

Filberts, pruning, 176

Fir, Golden Scotch, 143

Fisher, Son, and Sibray, Limited, 227

Flower gardening and garden design, art
in re'ationto, 38

Flower garden, simph plans and beds, 118

Flower garden, hardy v. tender p'an's in,
140, 165; notes, 6, 29, 47, 60, 7S, 110, 130,
148, IS-, 108, 241, 24S, 202,32 4, 336, 360,
37S, 302, 415, 434, 454 ; pests, 231

Fl -wers, arranging cut", 66, 3S2 ; florists',
colour in, 01, 120, 143, 106 ; from Newry,
333; November and December, in South
Devon, 60 ; spring, 153

Foliage, Grapes with ornamental, 33

Forestry honour?, 32 ; prospect* of, 244

Forests, the, of the Wabash Valley, 223

Forget-me-nots, 407

F.iisythia suspensa, 32S

Forsythiis, 270 ; under glass, 188

Foxglove, an abnormal, 467

Fragrance, 301

Francs, effects of the fr:st in, 209 ; new
plants in, 71

Franciscea Hopeana, 280, 298

Freesias, 164

Fritillaria Kotschyana affjnis, 293; Mtlea-
gris, 315 ; as n pot plant, 330 ; palliditlora,
315

Fritil'aries in the grass, 316

Frost in Notts, 457

Frost, the 124 ; effects of, on our fruit trees,
372 ; in the Florida Orange groves, 232 ; in
the middle of June, 447 ; registering, 52 ;
the. and shrubs and plants, 174

Fruit blossoms, protecting, 2S5 ; bcrders, dry,
35 ; buds and bullfinches, 176 ; culture,
hardy, 275 ; the future of, 22 ; crop, the,
345 ; house3, work in the, S, 25, 43, 63, 81,
08, 115, 134, 152, 168, 100, 220, 237, 2'Xi, 307,
325, 361, 379, 419, 450 ; prospects for 1S95,
66, 242 ; in May, 365 ; in South Devon,
396 ; protecting at fl rwer shows, 71 ; ttee*
apart from vegetables. 24 ; trees, digging
round, 125 ; effects of frost on, 372 ; freely
grown, 310 ; grafting, 101 ; liquid manure
for during winter, 270; mutilating, 440;
orchard, grafting, 243 ; spraying, 440

Fruits, hardy growing, 2S0 ; hardy, work
among, 344, 300. 441

Fuchsia Princess May, 331

Fuchsias, new, 3S4, 414

Furze and the winter, 270

G.

(iaillardias and Qypspohila in a rate, 433

Gaillar. ias, 26S

Galanthu* Cassaba, 142

Galeandras, 203

Garden, « vater, in New Jersey, 283 ; a water-
side, 127; cottage, ><n English, simplest
expression of tin beautiful garden, 39;
des'gn, competition in, 52 ; enemies, 266;
granite dust for the, 51; in May, 376;
notes from a New Zealand, 451 ; plans,
simph flowers and beds, 113; screcrs, 52;
sketches, 64, 82, 116, 239, 326, 374; the
market, 331 ; walks, 316

Garden index to the second twenty volumes,
32

Gardens and the'r flowers, eome o'd, 355;
monotony in, 154; three Kentish

Gardening, absurd, in Chicago, 31 ; at Pen-
zance, 322 ; mistakes in, 34

Gazania armerii tides, 2.0; Burchelli, 280;
c«?spitosa, 290; junca^folia, 2^'.i ; I.ii'h-
tensteni, 2S0 ; longiscapi, 280; pavonia,
289 ; pincata, 2S9 ; pygmtea and varieties
maculata and superba 2S9 ; ripens and
var. purpurea, 280 ; subulata, 289 ; tenui-
folia, 289 ; uniflora, 289

Gazanias, 288

Genist-ipilosa, 3*S ; virgata, 461

Gentiana alpiaa, 212

Geraniums, Ivy-leaved, 330

Gesnera cardinalis, 164

Gillenia ttipulacca, 5; trifoliata, 5

Ginger-worts, 166

Gladiolus, culture of the, 62

Gladioli, 4 ; in Scotland, 107

Gladwin, the, 30

Gladwin, the, 30

Glass insurance aga'nst hail, 102

Glonera jasminiflora, 262

Gloxinia Prince of Wales. 386

Gloxinias, 414

July 6, 1895.]

THE GARDEN INDEX

vu

Goniphia decora, 31

Gongoras, 299

Goodyera discolor, 20*2

' '■■ rry Van's Mistake, 256

Gooseberry bushes, red spider od, 216 ; Keep-
sake -130; trees, fe-ding, SS6

Gooseberries and Cm rants, summer pruning
of, 410 ; large and good, 125 ; protecting,
257 ; well-flavoured, 256

Gourds, 432

Granite dust for the garden, 52

Grapt Black Hamburgh, 346

Grape Black Hamburgh, 396 ; BowW
Muscat, 311, 347, 396; Gros Colman, 125,
277, 37i; Lady Powne's Seedling, 34;
Madresfield Court, 365, 395 ; Mrs. Pearson,
93 ; .Mrs. Pinee, ill, 176, 177, 216 ; Muscat
Hamburgh, 76; Muscat of Alexandria,
462; Royal Vineyard, 67 , seldom grown,
394 ; West's St. Peter's, 372

Grapes, crops of, SS5 ; failing toset, 193 275 ;
for a private garden, 94: Gros Bfaroc and
Black Hamburgh. 04; Madresfield Court
and Gros Colman. 31'.'; notes on, 1, 36 J
rust on, 346; temperatures for setting,
257; thinning for exhibition. 3t'-'> ; with
ornamental folnge, 33

Grass fields, manure for, 1 12, 227

Greens, dwarf winter, 233

Grub, the Cattleya, 203

Grubs in Strawberry ground, 334

Gypsophila a rastioides, 122

Hasrlem, great quinquennial bulb show at,

173
Ilaberlca rhodopensis, 298
Habenaria carnea and white variety, 182
Haben rias, 113
//<"/ Ion Hall, 355
Haetnanthus Kalbreyeii, 201 ; and Eremurns

robustus, 407
Hail, glass insurance against, 192
Haplocarpha Leiehtlini, 447
Hawthorn, water, 88
Head, Mr. \V. G., presentation to, 227
Heaths, market, 401
Hedera atropurpurea and Forsythias, 279;

maderiensis variegata, 74, 143
Hedysarum multijugum, 298, 4 47
Helleborvis colclncus Zenith, 38
Ilemeroeallis Dumortieri, 387 ; tlava, 417
Heuchera sanguinea, 354
Hieracium villosura, 407
H'gh Elms, notes from, 372
Hippeastrum splendens, 262
Hollies and their mutilation, 17
Hollyhock, the, 129
Honesty, 330
Hoya caraosi, 102, 164
Hyacinth sp kes, supporting, 129, 158
Hyacinths, Roman, 12,4s, 153
Hyacinthus amethystinus, 147, 3*7
Hydrangea Thomas Hogg, 407
//">." osa grandikora, 294

Hypericum aureum, 154; balearicum, 187;

nepalensc, 4 ; patulum, 14

I.

[mpatiens auricoma, 165; Suit ni, 270

Impostor, a horticultural, 448

[ncuvillea alpina, 332; Delavayi, 354, 3S6,
303 '

Insect pests and hard winters, 126

Insects, injurious, 305

Inula Helenium, 6 ; Hooker!, 426

Ireland, flowers from, 158

Iris asiatica, 426, 428 ; cosspitosa, 332 ;
cosnise, 351; fo'tidissinn, 30; flavescens,
435 ; hispanica, in pots, 400 ; Histrio, 142 ;
Esempferi, 30; Mourning, the, 209; nudi-
caulis, 351 ; orchioides, 298 ; persica 121 •
piunila, 332; reticulata, 208; and Dog's-
tooth Violets, 248 ; Bindjarenais. 241 ;
s'ylosa, 454 ; Susiana, 209, 241

1 407; a few good Spanish. 447;

I Incocyclus, i '■ 1

Irish garden, notes from an, 135

Ipomseas, 12

Isle of Wight, notes from the, 230

Ivies, colour in, 105

Ixias and their allies, 323

Ixioliriou m tcranthum, 351

J.

I B, 211

Jasmine, the winter floweriog, 13
Jasminum gracUlimum, 13 jgrandiflorum, 13

) . v ip, a water go ■ 233

Jew's Mallow, the double, 310 ; the single,

■ Su holdi. 412

K.

i. 1 profitable, 233; Arctic, 185; cot-

284 ; Improved Hearting, 297
Kales, a -id the frost, 246 ; variegated, 341

Kasrnpferia Kirki, 444

Kalmia glauca, 366

Kew, Water Lilies at, 467

Kitchen sardeo, work in (he, 7, 26, 44, 63,
81, 98, 115, 133, 151, 167, 199, 287, 253, 29',
306, 325, 343, 361, 3S0, 300, 410, 412, 459

Kentias, 69

Kerria japonica, 142; fl.-pl., 367

Laburnum, the Scotch, 17

LachenaJia quadricolor maculata, 50

Lackenaliaa in task-its, 163

Lady Tulip, 315

Lfelia anceps, 37 ; anceps Crawshayana, 40 ;
ancep3 Fitchiaiu, 90 ; anceps Sanderiana,
105 ;elegans and its varieties, 319 ; elegant
Turnerij 319; flava var. aurantiaca, 250,
265 ; grandis, 425; grandis tenebrosa, 43t>,
465 ; grandis tvnebrosa Pittiaca, 4»'>5 ;
harpophylla, 53; Latona, 265 ; majali-,
412 ; Perrini, 16 ; purpurata, 282, 320 ; pur-
puiati Bella, 385; purpurata It ehmond
Gem, 425 ; superbiens, S5. 204

Lfelias, Mexican, S81 ; scarlet, 203

Ladio-Cattleya C. G. Ihebling, 465 ; Epicasta,
295 ; Hippolyte, 893 ; Myra, 189 ; Pallas bu-
perba, 281

Langport, a note from, 360

Lapageria rosea (Nash Court var), 40; and
slugs, 102

Lathrsea clandestina, 323

Lau us nobilis, 307

Leaves, dry v. wet, 210

Leeks, 420, 43>

Lettuce, Drumhead, 23 *, 309 ; Golden
Queen, 309; Kingeholm Cos, H ; Lee's
Cabbage, 160; notes on, SO, 160; Sutton's
Favourite, 201

Lettuces, 155, 3S3 ; summer, 233 ; wintering,
311 ; under walls, 272

Leucojum carpathicum, 20S

Lewisia rediviv.i, 454

Libonia rioribunda, 20, 153 ; penrhoaiensis,
12

Lilac La Tour d'Auverguc, 850

Lilacs, double, 373

Lilium Browni, 187; and Its varieties, 147,
07 ; Dalhansoni, 465 ; elegant, 415, 453 ;
Henrji, 335 ; loi\ ' // . , 172 ;

vari* gatuni, 381; speclosum, in pots, L9 ;
on terroci , 19

Lilies, an exhibition of, 107, 217 ; the Austra-
lian, 324 ; Water at Kew, 467

Lily cult re, notes on, 170

Lily of the Valley, 71

Lily of the Valley in a '■■'■. 17!'

Linaria dalmatic

Lindelofia longifolia, 851

Liphook, a note From, 298

Lir.odendron tulipiferum, 17

Lis ian thus Russellianus, 154

Lithospcrmum rosmarinlfolium, 6

Lobelia fulgens, 46

Lobelias, herbaceous, 455

Lupinus, 39S

Luculia gratissima, 117

L; caste iromatiea, Ss^: lasioglo?sa, 146;
plana and variety, 72 ; Skinneri alba, 146,
204; Regime, 90 ; trifoliata Lehmaimi,

. 295

Lycastes, 84

Lychnis, a new, 77

Lycoris, 42 ; aurca, 42, 72 ; mdia'a, 42 ; Ban-
gui aea, 43 ; Sewerzowi, 43 ; squamigera,
4'i ; straminei, 43

M.

Magnolia Campbell!, 244 ; eontpietta on a

-, 40J ; macrophylli, 162; Sou'ange-

ana, 332, 3^7 ; ate lata, 27:', 315; Watsoni,

42S

Magnolias, early-flowering, 304

Ma'low, the -lew's, US

Manettia bicolor, 105 ; on an open wall, 142

Manure liquid for fruit trees, 311

Maples, Japanese, 270

Marguerite Carnations, 268

Market garden notes, s)

Marrows, frame, 3J9 ; vegetable, 342

Masdevallia Courtauldiana, 54 ; Gairiana, 16 ;
Harryana luteo-oculata, 390 ; miniata, 3-6 ;
leontoglossa, 265 ; musrosa, 3^1 ; nycte-
lina, 381 ; Shuttryana, 3*6 ; tenuifolia,
436; Veitchianagrandinora, 176

Maxillana venusta, 114

May in South Devon, 421 ; morning, a, 406

Mew nopsis Wallichi, <"., 31, 110

Medlar, the wild, 24

Megasea africana, 322 ; Strachcyi, 03

Melon, the, 287 ; Albert Victor, 462 ; a good
early pot, 244 ; Bishop's Favourite, 466 ;
The Lady, 427 ; Victory of Ba'h, 112

Melons, 31, 462

Menyanthes trifoliata, 351

Menziesia empetriformis, 315

Mertensia virginica, 321, 417, 467

Mespilus, the Sno^y, 333

Mezereon, the, and its varieties, 244

Mignonette Bush Hill White, 226

Miltonia vexillaria, 245

Mint, 453

Mistletoe, 18, 72

Moltkia petraea, 467

Monochwtum sericeum niulti9orum, 103

Musa En s, te iti tfo Garden at Ponsonby,

T< rquay, '■•
Mushroom beds, outdoor, 342 ; spawning

272
Mushrooms, 342 ; in ficl's, 341
Sfyrica califinmica, 424 ; carolinensis, 18 ;

cerifera, IS ; inodora, 18
Myrsiphyllum asparagoides, 180

N.

Name, what's in a, 13, 31, 42, 88, 131
Narcissus culture in the Scilly Isles, 356, 376 ;

incomparabilis ponderosus, 298 ; Tazetta

Snowflake, 164 ; triandrus, 20:*
Narcissi, basal rot in, 312
Nature m raua Art, 440
Nectarine Hunt's Tawny, 35 ; Rivers' Early,

111, l!'3 ; tree, a grand, 410
Nectarines Cardinal, Early Rivers, and Lord

Napier. 4 !" ; two g I early, 395

2VI <■ 1 '"■■'■- >■■', 3S4

Neriums. 38 1

Nertera deprcssa, 154

New Zealand, notes from, 44s

Notospartium Carmichaelias, 102

Oakwood, hardy flowers at, 35s, 154
( iLiks, American, 44
Obituary —

Baines, Mr. Thomas, 174

Collins, Mr. (.'., 14

Dean, Mr. William, 227

Henderson, Mr. R., 1 -

Hog/, Mr. Thomas, 362

Hooibrenk. Hood. l>.. 334

Kinttston, Mr. K. C, 448

Laird, Mr. R. B , 174

Lakin, Mr Joseph, 174

More, Alexander Goodman, M.A.. 227

Thomas, Mr. John .1., 210

Thomson, Aliek, 106

Thomson, William, 52

Truscott, Al lennan >sir Krauei^ W'vatt, 174

Walk, r, Mr. J

Worth, Mr. Thomas, 227

1 (dontodenia spe.ciosa, 407

Odontogloesum Alexandras, 436; flaveolum,
146 ; bictonense, 87 ; blandum, 146; Bleu-
ianum virginale, 886 ; Cervantesi and
varieties, 15 : decorum, 16 ; membrana-
ceum, 16 ; roseum, 114; oo'onarium, 15;
crispum, lt;, 3i7 ; a fine, 201; Catterine,
259; The B lie, 840; virginale, 34S ; Ed-
wardi, 321; Banyan urn, 203; laave, IS;
superbum, 265 ; luteo-pun ureum. 175 ;
amplissini'iiii, 225; maculatnzD, 146, 169;
maarense, 321; nebulosum, 176 ; candidu-
lum, 49 ; nevalense, 137 ; priestans, 16 ;
pulchellum, 37 ; Dormanianum, 37 ; majus,
'A'. ; Rossi albens, 146; Ameeianum.
majus, 262; triumphans, 282; Lonci 1
shay, 2"<o ; Wilckeanum var. Lowi, 386.

Od ntoglo'sums, culture of, 169; for ama-
teurs. i'99

CEoothera marginata, U'<

QSnotfo ra marginata, l1'-

Offingtun, i 18

OjHniiton Hou$et 458 ; the flower garden at, 455

Olearia Haaiti, 1^, 51, 71, 88'; as a sea ide
shrub, I9i

Onion, a good keeping, 40 ; Rousham Park,
254

Onions, 420; a note on, 1S5 ; diffieul'ies
with, 159; hsrdlnAs of, 10; heavy crops
of, 79; huge, 41, 101, ls3; new, 138; notes
on, 10 ; sowing winter, 421 ; Tripoli, bolt-
ing, 3S3 ; winter, 271

Oncidium ampliatum majus, 310 ; Caveu-
dishianurn, 175, 203 ; Cebolleta, 347 ; con-
color, 146; cucullatum, 320; Lanceanum,
389 ; niacranthum, 200 ; oraithorrhynchum,
15 ; retusum, 321 ; Barcodes, 348 ; sphace-
Utum, 428 ; splendidum, 85, 106 ; tigrinum,
37, 106

OncidLums, 411

Ono:leaseusibili

Orange groves, Florida, frost in, 232

Orchard;', planting and manuring, 157

Orchid growing, how to popularise, 440 ;
houses, ventilating, 146 ; the Dove, 16

Orchidsat Mr. W. Boll's, 3S0 ; at Sherwood,
Beckenham, 347 ; cleaning, 353 : cool, 137 ;
from Abergavenny, 173, 214; f om Edin-
burgh, 2S0 ; from Leeds. 146; from Pit-
lochry. N.B., 11; from Trewyn, 282;
specimen, 300 ; newly imported, S3 ; notes
tn, SO, 2^0, 436 ; on blocks, 265 ; on Fern
walls, 412; potting, 36; propagating, 53;
smalt collections of, 411 ; watering. 149

Orchis latifolia, Glasnevin variety. 465

Ureyun, a note trom, B8

Orobui v> (;'"=, 186

< tsiers, cutting, 244

( ►smantiius ilicifoliu -, 17, 54

< >xalis Acetosella, 129 ; cernua, 447

P.

Peeooy Dukeof Edinburgh, 42^ ; Lady Beres-
ford, 426; Lord Ivegh, 3sr> ; Mme. de
G ban, 465 ; Solfaterre, 426 ; Whitleyi,
4js ; Witmanniana, 375

Pasonles, her aceous, at Long Ditton, 448;
tree, in pots, 10"' ; new tree, 370

Palm seed

[ 'an ■■■ Blue (Sown, 293; A. J. Rowbeny,
465

Psnsies, tufted, 197, 393, 428 ; from cuttings,
323

Papaver pilosum, 447

Paradise v. Crab, 67

Paris, notes from, 280

Parsley, 883 : ng, 457

Parsnips, sowing early, L60

Paths, woodland, 404

PaulUnia thalictrifolia, 180

P. .1 Autocrat, 4::>: ; Criterion, 41. 458 ; erops,
the, 458; Daisy, 185, 235, 466; Gradus,
420 ; and Bean weevil, the, 406

Pens. 430 ; and Beans, insect enemies to, 155 ;
sowing, 235 ; and hav. ' ; early

market, 201 ; dwarf, 456 ; for market, 1M ;
late, '■'■ '■'■ ; mulchin ; , -owing in

pots, 2S 1 ; Sweet Cuj id, 466 ; Sweet, 51,

130, 212
Peach Amsden June, 310; and Nectarine
trees dropping their bloEsoms, L93;buds
dropping, 257,287; Crimson Galande, 22 ;
Desse 'Jardive, 36; Dr. Hogg, 24, 36;
Dymond, 22, 36, 94, 171 ; Early S*ork, 400;
Leaves diseased, 286; the best early, (■08;
trees, blister on, 310 ; disbudding, 372;
outdoor, c '■■ 1 In bhe -■■■ ms "f. 112 ; un-

heallln , 276 i ■ '■" ■ [l '

Peach- • ■ 194; disbudding, 125,

l, 1. "i" ; '■- 372;

■

Pear 1 VArem-

,11 1 ■ . 216, •-•12;

■1 , ; 1 haumontel, 2"-,, 2-:, ;

■ 1 Le Bor-

, ■ oh try, 1 'i. ■ >7;C ouMor-

cmUi , , ; 1; ,, , More* iu, 105 ; Leon Leclerc

de Laval, 216; Williams" Bon Chretien, 329

Pears, a note on, L42 ; early, 276; flavourin,

22 35 ; notes on, 33 ; premature ripening

of, 2; email, of rich flavour, 94; sm 11,

j :, good stewing, 95

Pelargonium culture, 302; Dr. Andre, 330;

Dueh oi fork, 386
Pelargoniums at Lewi ham, 383; decorative,

during winter, 11 ; g I m irket, 3 A ;

in London, 4N ; show, 445; variegated
Ivy-leaved, 445; zo-wl, three good winter-
bloomin ■. 20 ; zonal for winter,
Pentapterygium (;Vaccinium) serpens, 191

oaon cuttin ■

Penzance, 1 H c Boi the winter at, 314

: 152,231

1 rfaelati, 16

Peroettyas, 414 .

Phaius, 136; Blumei var. Bemaysi, 102;
1 .,.,[, 1 !5; grandiflorus, 174

Phaio-Calmthe Lrrorata rosea, 1S9

Ph Uenopsis P. L. Ames, 51; intermedia
Portei 122; Leuc rrhoda, 146 ; Luddeman-
nlana 319; sumatr^na, 354; Youogiana,
122 ■ m winter, 53 ; notes on, 231, 412 _ (

Philadelphua Boule d' Argent, 465 ;Lemoines
new, :

Phillyrea Vilmoriniam, 191

lium aureum areolatum, S,

Phlox canadensis, 332

Phyllocactus Excellent, 3.f6

Phyllostachys aurea, 2; bimbusoides, 2,
Boryana, 3; Castillonis, 3; flexuosa, 3;
Henonis, 3; Kumasasa, 3;mitis, 2; pigi i,
3;ill I ,3;Quilioi,3;sulphurea,

3; violascens, 3 ; viridi-glaucesc m i

Phyteuma com »sum, 1 10

Pictures winter and spring, 468

Pine apple, a good winter, 67

Pine, the white, 270; tribe, the be&t of the,
223

Pilum a fragrans, 10fi ; nobilis, 89

PinkS! L79; propagating,

Pitlochry, N.B., Orchids from, 11

Plant hardiness, about, 61 v„„9i».

Plants itGur, !i' ,' ■,"-':,.»'

churchyard, -251 ; collecting hardy, 4bS,

from Eastern ABia, 124 ; flne-fohaged,

„„,. 102; hardy at Oakwood,

110, 212, ..-.'357,

37:i 407 416, 434, 454; herbaceous, from

seed, 78; ,. tender in the flower garden

393 , in

Shropshire, 244 ; new Btove at the lemp.e

show, 401 ; selection of hardy ornamental

border, 416 ; soft-wooded winter flowering,

103- some American hardy, 247 ; staking,

401; sub-tropical at Torquay, 5; wanted,

the conservatory,

105 ; .,:

Vlll

THE GARDEN INDEX

[July 6, 1895.

Platyclinis, 11 ; filiformis, 11 ; Cobbiana, 11 ;

glumacea, 1 1, 229
Pleroma macranthum at Kew, 2)3
P eurothallisimmersa, 465
PPurn aphis, the, 462 ; OuUin's Golden

Gage, 03 ; the Chinese, 333
Poinsettias in summer, 15 J
Pole mo i imn hum le, 3 12
Polyai tli> s Herman ;

Polyanthuses, 198 ; at Hampton Court, 333
Polygala myrtif lia, 2 9
Polygonum capitatum, 447
Polyp dium aureum areolatum, S7
Pop'ars, the, 251
Poppy i ri ce of l >range, 407

Poppies Icel I, in a bowl, 382; Shirley, 247

Posl oflB es, the new post card and the

Continental, 124
Potato crop, the, 363; culture, practice in,

246; Early Racehorse, 364; Ringleader,

363 ; Sandringham, 342; Sharpe's Victor,

342; Windsor Castle, 11
Potatoes, 184, 430; early, 160, 421 ; v. late

planting of, 201 ; good dry weather, 4::7 ;

lat-, 3:>7 ; lifting early. 457; protecting

early, -JS4 ; too many varieties of, 341, 383
Potentilla cali ornica, 465
Primrose culture, 31; garden, a Scottish,

323 ; Siebold's, 61
Prim oses, bunch, and the frost, 279 ; from

Winchmore Hill 815 ; the Capt , 224 ; wild,

47
Primula Chinese Giant Rosy Queen, 5C ;

denticulata alba, 2CS ; and P. rosea, 335;

Forbeei, 262; mollis, 20S ; nivalis, 129;

oVconica, 240; rosea and Marsh Marigold,

315 ; Sieboldi, 212 ; vertic llata, 192
Primulas, Chinese, 105 ; Chinese at Reading,

121 ; double white. 164
Prunus triloba, 315 ; Jacquemonti, 333
Pteris cretica Wimsetti, 296
Pterocarya caucasici, 425, 45S
Public Gardens —

Bethnal Green Gardens, opening of, 40S

Bournemouth pleasure grounds, 32

Brnckwell Park. 3Si

Durham, a present to, 448

Kew Gardens, 210

Lincoln's Inn Fields, 42S ; openiDg of, 158

Liverpool, gift of a park to, 316

Maidstone, new recieation ground for, 370

Metropolitan Gardens Association, 32, 44S

Willes-en, opening of a new park at, 352

Open spaces, 210, 334

Plumstead Common fired, 46S

Woolwich, new upen sp^esfor, 40S
Pumpkine, 132

PuschkiniaEcilloides, 31, 105, 142. 262
Pyretbrums, single, 4 7
Pyrola rotundifolia, 321
Pyrus prunliolia, 367 ; spectabilis, 332

R.

Rabbits, keeping of, 106

Radich, earliest frame, 237 ; French Break-
fa t, 42

Radishes during hot weather, 45S ; for
forcing, 155 ; summer, 342

Banuncuius aconitif olius, 332 ; amplexicaulis,
298 ; ai emonoides, 322 ; cortusaef olius, 333

Ranunculi, absence of flowers on, 388

Raspberry Baumforth's Seedling, 364

Raspberries, 258, 329, 364; and frost, 304

Reidia glaucescens, 3£4

Renanthera Imsebootlana, 425

Restrepia elegans, 169

Rhapis flabelliformis, I ' i

Rhexia virginica, 187

Rhododendron arboreum, 2S0; blandfo diss-
floruni, 403 ; cinnabarinum, 407 ; dahuri-
cum, IS; Eii-ly Gem, 27:* ; Forsterianum,
294; folgens, 280, 298; Jacksoni, 315;
ponticum f..-lii>. purpureis, 50; Queen of
Dwarfs, 251 ; Mcemosum, 'SS'i ; Smirnowi,
3-S, 424 ; rhombicum, 3 15

Rhododendrons and the frost, 344; green-
house, 445 ; the Pon ic and the frost, 270 ;
sweet-scented, IS! ; twelve good, U9

Rhodothamnus ChamsBCiftus. i98

Rhubarb, Black ( lurrant, 309; Hawke's Cham-
pagne, 456 ; planting, 185

Ribes aureum, 30S

Richatdia P ntlandi, 330; Rehmanni, 48

Rivina humilis, 20

Robinia hispida, 222

Rockets, 240

Rock garden, the, 119, 111, 26S, 201, 327,838
858, 377; wi in, 92

Rock gardens, plants for dry. 148; foliage
plants in winter on the, 188

Rogiera gratissima, 12

Ro.-a Brunoniana, 4"7 ; cameUiseflora, 1C0;
glutinnsa, 375 ; indica, 452 ; Leschenaul-
tiana, 212; on .chatanivea, 88; nutkana,
40" seticea, SB' spinosiecim; v n ;p -,i ;
3S7

Rose, a new. 203; Belle Siebrecht, 429;
B anehe de Coubert, 425 ; Boieldieu, 294 .
Bridesmaid, 296; It. G,iii, -:-,'i ; Duke of
York, l'.'l ; garden, in the, 17& ; Her

Majesty, 293; [mperalrice Eugenie, S3;
Lawrence Allen, 426 ; Mmc. de Watteville
under glass, 294; Mme. Georges Bruant,
S3. 17S ; Marchioness of Londonderry, 29o ;
Mrs. Grant, 32 ; Mrs, Fierpont Morgan. 50;
_M<.sK cristata, S3; Niphetos, climbing,
255 ; Niphetos and Clematis indivi^a, 444 ;
notes, 429 ; Pcrle des Jardins, 403; Reine
Marie Henriette, 27'.' ; stocks, dwarf, plant-
ing of, 99 ; old Cabbage or Provence, 83;
tin Musk, 62; W. A. Fvichardson, 429;
for exposed plices, S3; Guelder, the, as a
water i lant, 458

Roses, among the, iu March, 255 ; among the,
in May, 3s"> ; and the past winter, 300 ; are
smooth or prickly-wooded the hardier?
2i5; climbing, 3S5 ; climbing Dijon Teas,
21!'; dark, in pots, 159; deid and dying,
2a5 ; indoor, among in February, 99; in
India, 293 ; in the north, 29S ; in Sussex,
300 ; new Tea and other, 3SS ; new, of ls93-
1*'.>4, 135; notes on, 130, 254, 293; own
root, 256 ; pot, at Messrs. W. Paul & Son's,
3sr» ; spring y. autumn, planting of, 3C0 ,
Tea, and frost, 429 ; the slaughter of the,
42'.' , under glass, 159, 255 ; vitality of
young and old plants, 17S ; winter, 8'.
135

Roses, Christmas, 77, 105, 107, 358
1 1 .■'/> n, as cutjlowt s, 136

Rubus australis, 100, 131 ; rosajfolius plenus,
12

Rudbeckias, 418 ; tall, 201

Ruscus racemosus, 143

Rushlon, 267

Ru^ia, a letter from, 275

Saceolabinum belliuum, 138 ; Harrisonia-

num, 105
Saititpaulia ionantha, 181, 208, 332
Salading, 185
Salads, scarcity of, 1*1
Salisburia adiantifolia, 1S8
Silsafy, 42 ; and Scorzonera, 432; coarse, 341
Salvia hians, 428; Heeri, 262; pulchells, 173
Sambucus racemosa aurea, 350; plumosa

aurea, 424
Sanacenii purpurea, 110, 142
S-rracenias, 187
Savoy De Vertus, 2S4
Saxifraga Boydi alba, 260; Burseriana, 110;

cotyledon varieties in pots, 74 ; flagellaris,'

417; lieulata, 48; luteo-viridis, 316; mi-

nuta, 375 ; pyramidalis, 91
Sciadopitys verticillata, 32, 55, 74
" Scientist," the word, J4
Scilla pratensis, 387 ; sibirica multiflora

227 ; on the grass, 292
SciUy Islands, flowers from the, 192
Schizostylis cocoinca, 269
Schomburgkia tibicin s, 349
Scutellaria M cciniana, 262
Scuticari s 435
Seaka'e culture, 10; e^rly, 41 ; not ferced,

341 ; planting in spring, 271
Seeds not germinating, 363
Seduni karntschaticum, 465 ; spathulifolium

454
Senecio Dorouicum, 26S ; hsifolius, 236
Shortia galacifolia, 191, 322
St rubs, effects of frost on, 198; golden

leaved, 366 ; January flowering, 74 • in

Kent, 354
Siberian Crab, 367
Sibthorpia aurea variesata, 386
Silene chromortfnta, M75
Simpson, Mr. J., 52
sit nes lineatus, 406
Skimmia Foremani, 105, 2C8
Slote and other roofs. 446
Sluts, 334, 3S5
Si ap'lragons, 2S
Saowdrop Cassaha, 191
Sno^diops, 5, 88 ; at Kew, 191 ; in swamps,

417 ; notes on. 335
Snowflake, the Carpathian, 20S
s bralias, 347

SOOIETIFS AND EXHIBITIONS—

Auricula, 313

Birmingham Botanic and Horticultural

40S
I tulhtnnuii, 71. S8, 112, 157, 20S

Corporation, the nurserymen and market.

dene s, 167
Pah ia, 20S
Crystal Pslace, 207
G\ m. van Plant Protection, 59, &^. 105
Eaa*lem Bulb Show, novelties fit the, 21s
Gardeners' Royal Benevolent, 52, 71
Royal Botanic, 51, 207, 314, 3)1, 128
Royal Gardeners' Orihan Fund, 14, 88, 123,

261, 314
Royal Horticultural, 4i<, 122,189,225.259,

95, 319 .'' T, 386, 425
Unit d Horticultural, -01, 191
London Pansy and Violi t, 261
ScJltish Pansy and Viola, 15S
Soils heavy, when i" dig, 40

Solanum Dammanianum, 304 ; Dublosinua-
tum, 304; Mors e'ephantum, 301; Sea-
fortbianum, 304; Wendlandi, 467

Solanums, four good new, 304

Boldanellas, 92, 1*7

Sopbronitis grandiflora, 85, 175, 189, 227 ;
violacea, 85

Spathoglottis aurea, 281

Spinach Beet or Chards, 432 ; Carter's, 4^7 ;
notes on, 341 ; prickly in summer, 421;
winter, 421

Spinovitis Davidi, 250

Spirasa arguta, 333,434: artofolia, 1SS ; astil-
boides floribund», 227, 247 ; compact a
multiflora, 231; Lindleyana, 270, 22 i;
stipulacea, 5; Thunbergi fl.pl., 332; tri-
foliata, 5

Spring, the late, 227

Spting-flowering shrubs at Scilly, 345

Stanhopeas, 3S9

Starworts, 198

Stenotaphrum glabrum, 102

Stephanotis floribunda, 224

Sternbergias, 114

Sti| ma hyllon cliatum, 413

Stock Princess Alice, 417

Stocks, White, 336

Strawberry, anew, 215; Auguste Nicaise,
244 ; Guuton P<trk, 310 ; La Grosse Sucree,
215 ; Leader, 332, 350, 351 ; Monarch, 466 ;
Noble, 36) ; for forcing, 329 ; plants forced
and exposure, 276; killed by grubs, 411;
young for early fruiting, 439; Royal Sove-
re;gn, 262, 2S6, 315, 395; Sca'let Queen,
216, 25S, 351; Sensation, 387; Stevens'
Wonder, 190, 192

Strawberries, notes on, 258, 405 ; and drought,
371 ; and frost, 2S7 ; dry weather, 463 ;
flavour in forced, 177 ; for forcing, 409,
463 ; forced in boxes, 311 ; from Burghley,
4l7 ; good packing, 463 ; new, 346 ; potash
for forced, 67 ; preparing for forcing, 463

Streptocarpus Distinction, 426 ; gratus, 226

Streptocatpi, 224

Streptosolen Jamesoni, 279, 303

Strobilanthes Dyerianus, 1 i 3

Sunflowers, 212 ; at Tnssirne, 109

Sutton, Mr. Martin Hope, 210

Sweet Bay, 307

Sweet Sultan, 435

Syon House, vegetables at, 397

Syringa japonica, 467

ThalictrviH c/uili-j'fi-iliuit), 357

Thalictrums, 357

Thomson, Mr. William, the late, of Cloven-
fords, 106

Thorn, the scarlet fraited, 143

Thunborgias, 150

Thunias, 229, 245

Thyme, common garden, 78

Thyr.-acant.lius rutilans, 180, 205

Timber, waste in, 243

Tobacco, a hybrid, 393; sweet scented, the
variegated, 4S

Toaa'o All the Year Round, 297; cuttings,
41 ; Duke of York, 1S5, 236, 421 ; Early
Ruby, 2S4 ; Excelsior, 427 ; growing for
amateurs, 1S3; Ladybird, 2S3, 363; uotes,
457 ; the exhibition, status of the, 456; early,
342; eel-worms attacking, 155; optn air,
308, 342, 397 ; root gall in, 340

Tomatoes and disease, l'72

Torquay, subtropical p'auts at, 5

Trachelium co rult urn, 303

Tree stems, protecting from ground game,
171, 216.

Tree,the Maiden-hair, 188 ; the Tulip, in the
north, 143

Trees and shrubs certificated In 1894, 7:;;
damage to, 227 ; flower ng, 139 ; foreign
fruit, 2 6; historical, at VValmer, 288; and
shrubs in Ireland, 403; in Su.s^ex, 373;
lifting large, 230; fruit, <■.,,-• ,«/ way of,
464 ; hardy fruit, cuveivd wajs of, 404 ;
protection of t nder, 345 ; protecting wall,
194 ; rare, at Esher Place, 162 ; unfruitful,
34

Tremandia Hugcli, 158

Trenching, 40

Trcsserne, Sunjloicti - at, loo

Trichocentrums, I6'.i

Trichopilia crispa marginata, 390 ; suavis,
138 ; superba, 2(55

Tricuspidaria hexapetala, 298

Trillium gi'andiflorum, 332

Trilliums, 316

Tropaeolum Coolgar li< 96; Leichtlini, 42S ;
speciosum, 212

Trumpet flowers, 37;;

Tuberose, (If. 330

Tulipa Clusiana, 315 ; eleoans alba, 350 ;
Gesneriana and other species, 359 ; Grcigi,
316 ; Haageri and T. Sprengeri, 3;i2 ; Kauf-
manniana, 262; linifolia and T. montana,
332 ; orphanidea, 315 ; prajcox, 298 ; sax-
ali i., 315 ; sylvestris, 6 ; violacea 20

Tulip Bouton d'Or, 3SS

Tulips, 333; at Kew. 333; late, f- r cutting.
352; some good garden, 352

Tulip tree, the, 17 ; the, iu Yorkshire, 55

Tulip trees, 402

Turnip, a good winter, 235 ; Early Milan, 2*3 ;

Farly White Milan, 42; Orange Jelly, 421,

457
Turnips, 235, 271, 432 ; early, 1S5, 271

TJ.

Umbrella Pine, the, 32

V.

Vallota purpurea, 453 ; in flower, 414

Vancouveria hexandra, 407

Vanda carulea, 145; Denisoniaua, 389; par-
viflora, 354

Vandas, 145, 272 ; small growing, 221

Vaporiser, an effective, 72

Vegetable culture, aids to early, 233

Vegetable exhibition, the proposed national,
52, 124

Vegetables ai d the mild weather, 9 ; at Syon
House, 396 ; at York, 46S ; early, and
salads, 1S3; field culture of, 331, 404, 429 ;
green, 202 ; protcting early, 3w7 ; scarcity
of, 234 ; seleeti -n of, and new kinds, 42

Verbascum olympicum, 147; phosniceum, 31,
51, 59

Verbascum?, "47

Vetch, Spring Bitter, 186

Vetch, the Spring Bitter, for forcing, 231

\ iburnum plicatum, 407 ; pyrifolium, 407

Vine, Claret coloured, 253 ; culture, notes on,
311 ; curious growth on, 95 ; leaves, blis-
ters on, 410, 4n3; c loured, 111; rods,
should they be scraped ? 33 ; roots, lifting,
171 ; diseased, 125; weevil, the black, 218

Vines, 249 ; American species, 249; Asiatic
species, 249 ; best stocks for, 287 ; mealy
bug on, 94, 157 ; not breaking, 286 ; raising
and replanting, 126 ; shading newly -lifted,
410 ; stocks for, 192, 215 ; syringing, 462 ;
wdd, in (h, Upper San Joaquim Valleyt Call-
fornia, 2V.>

Viola Blue Bell, 37S

Violet, a fine new, 142 ; Marie Louise, 212 ;
Princess Beatrice, 190 ; Queen Victoria.
26S

Violets, 10S, 333 ; double, 312 ; from Ire'and,
262 ; in frames, 129

Vitis icstivalis, 249; arborea, 250; califor-
nica, 250 ; cordifolia, 250 ; Coignetiae, 250 ;
heterophylla, 250 ; hnmulifolia, 25S ; in
constans, 250 ; Labrusca, " 250 ; quinque-
folia, 25J ; riparia, 250 ; Roinaneti, 250 ;
viniftra, 250 ; vulpina, 250

W.

Wahlenbergia graminifolia, 467

Wales, March nxinfall in, 279 ; notes from.

280
Walker, Mr. John, the late, 352
Wallflowers under glass, 43
Warscewiczellas, culture of, 320
Wasps, 346.

Wati r Lily house at Castlt wellan, a, 413
Water Li y houses, 413
Water Lilies aud the frost, 124 ; hardy in the

house, 209
Wax Myrtle, thc,424
Wax Myrtles of the sea-coast of North

America, IS
Weather, the, 127 ; mild, the, and vegetables,

9 ; the, of 1S93 and its effects on the

garden, *>9
Weigela Eva R.thke, 424
Wtst Herts, the weather in, 14, 31, 51, 72,

8S, 106, 124, 142, 1 8, 174. 192, 210. 227,

244, 2S0, 29S, 316, 334, 352, 370, 3S8, 408,

42S, 44S, 468
Williams memorial fund, 32
Wilson, Mr., presentation to, 227
Wiudflower, the, 10S
Winter Sweet ^t Claremont, 14
Wistaria, the, 366 ; o<;:r a balcony, £6'i
Wood Lily and Wiudflower, 315
Won.l Sorrel, 129
Worcestershire, the season in, 14

Xanthoceras soibifoli '. 402

Y.

Yew, the English, 55
York, vegetables at, 46>.

Yucca /■"■". ■■", 337

Z.

Zygopetalum crlnitum, 114

Jul\ 6, 1895.]

THE GARDEN INDEX

IX

COLOURED PLATES.

ACIDANTHERA BICOLOR

ALTH.EA FICIFOLIA

BLANDFORDIA FLAMMEA VAR. FR1NCEFS; 2. B

NOBILIS; :;, B. MARGINATA

CALCEOLARIA BURB1DGEI

CALOCHORTUS PLUMMER.E

CANNAS, FRENCH: 1, SARAH HILL; 2, MAURICE

MUSSEY

CHRYSANTHEMUMS, SINGLE: 1, MISS ROSE; 2

MARY ANDERSON

CHRYSANTHEMUMS, SINGLE: 1, PURITY; 2, DIS

TINCTION

COREOPSIS GRAN DIFLORA

COSTUS SPECIOSUS

CYCLAJIEN SALMON QUEEN

Page
343

21

324

30U
80

138

360

458

(5

1U6

378

CYPRIPEDIUM CHARLESWORTHI

GAZANIA BRACTEATA

HAI5ENARIA CARNEA AND WHITE VAR.

LILIUM BROWNI LEUCANTHUM

LUPIN, TREE

LYCORIS AUREA

ROSA MOSCHATA VAR

ROSE (TEA) DUCHESSE DAUERSTADT
RUDBECKIA MAXIMA AND R. PINNATA

RUDBECKIA NIT1DA

SAINTPAULIA IONANTHA

SENECIO LAXIFOLIUS

STERNBERGIA MACRANTHA

THUNBERGIA GRANDIFLORA, TWO FORMS
VANDA SUAVIS

Page
252

182

97

398

42

G2

219

418

201

132

230

114

150

272

Thk Garden]

[July 6, 1895.

Jan. 5, 1895.]

VOL. XLYII.

Orchard and Fruit Garden

NOTES ON GRAPES.

" C. N." at page 493 has some remarks on
judging Grapes, which are of some importance
to gardeners and others who exhibit Grapes,
but they go further than this, for they open up,
as it were, the whole question of judging.
" C. N." adds : " Perhaps the judges were not
acquainted with the quality of Rojal Vineyard
Grape, but they might soon have become so by
tasting a berry or two." The contention is that
1he Muscat Grapes were inferior in quality to
what Muscats ought to have been, and that the
bunches of Royal Vineyard were good, well-
finished bunches, while, to add to the other
defects, many of the berries of the Muscats
were shanked. Clearly, from the description
given by " C. N. ," Royal Vineyard should have
been first, assuming that the prize was awarded,
as it certainly ought to have been, for excellence
of culture, for in truth Muscat of Alexandria is
n..t such a very difficult Grape to manage, and
if the fruit of it is but second or third-rate, it
is no credit to the gardener. Of course, every-
thing being equal, that is, the Muscats the best
of their kind and the Royal Vineyard also of
supreme quality, the latter would be almost
sure to take a second place ; but the matter
assumes quite a different complexion when the
Muscats are poor for Muscats, and the Grapes,
whether Royal Vineyard or any other, superior
in quality. The judges ought certainly to give
the prize to the Grapes which give evidence of
the most skilful culture. Most Grape growers
will, I opine, back me up when I assert that it is
more difficult to grow and finish off Royal Vine-
yard than it is the Muscat. The Vine itself is
very vigorous, but the Grapes do not always
set well ; in fact, never, unless they have special
treatment when in bloom. They require a
minimum temperature of between 65° and 70°
at that critical period ; moreover, if the flowers
are examined, the stigmatic portion of each' will
be quite covered with a globule of water, and if
the haDd is drawn over the bunch it will
become quite wet. This must be done daily, as
the globules are removed by this process, the
pollen becomes attached to the stigma, and the
fruit sets well. There is not much difficulty
until the autumn, when the berries will crack
badly close to the foot-stalks unless a dry,

rather warm atmosphere is maintained. All
this demands a good deal of care and watchful-
ness, so that the gardener who shows good even
bunches and berries of Royal Vineyard should
be commended. I am well aware that Muscats
also require care when they are in bloom and to be
artificially fertilised, but the Grape and the de-
tails of its culture are well known to gardeners.
It is certainly a great relief to judges when two
classes are provided for white Grapes — one for
Muscats and one for any other variety, because
as a matter of fact no white Grapes can beat
the old Muscat of Alexandria, all other con-
ditions being equal ; therefore, it is rather hard
upon a gardener who may be a first-class Grape
grower, but who does not grow Muscats, to
find he has no chance to win when good Mus-
cats are placed against any other white variety.
I bought a plant of Royal Vineyard the first
year it was sent out and have grown it under
various conditions since, and my experience has
led me to the conclusion that when it is well
grown there is no other white Grape, except the
Muscat, to equal it. It is never satisfactory
unless it is managed as I have described above.
I have tried Trebbtano, the Syrian and White
Tokay, but have discarded all of them in favour
of Royal Vineyard. Muscat of Alexandria has
an entire house to itself. I used to grow Cannon
Hall Muscat in this house, but it is too un-
certain and has been discarded. It is now
generally admitted that there is but one variety
of Muscat for garden purposes, and the name
Muscat of Alexandria has priority. The names
Bowood Muscat, Tynningham Muscat, Totten-
ham Park Muscat, &c, are either seminal va-
rieties differing in no respect from their parent,
or the names have been given when the va-
riety has done better than usual, it being
supposed that it was owing to a difference
in variety, whereas it was merely cultiva-
tion. At Loxford Hall some twenty-five or
thirty years ago I planted a very fine house
with Muscats, it being specially built for
that purpose. I propagated my own plants
from one Vine, and everything was done to make
the Muscats a success, and they did very well.
I had one or two Vines which were not required.
One of these was planted in a corner of another
house. The roots had only about a cubic yard
of compost to work into, the Vine itself being
trained into a Pine house and on the north
aspect. The different conditions of culture had
so altered the appearance of both bunches and

fruit that I had no difficulty in passing it off as
a distinct variety. The berries always set better
and the fruit produced was always superior.
I believe Mr. Young, Mr. R. P. Brotherston
and others of the correspondents of The Gak-
1 den who were under me at Loxford will re-
member this Vine. I do not take any credit to
myself, as I never expected great results. I
merely mention it as some evidence how old
Grapes may be passed off as new on a credulous
public. Most of us old gardeners remember
Snow's Muscat Hamburgh coming out, and sub-
sequently Venn's Black Muscat. I have, grown
both and do not see any difference between
them ; both are synonymous with the Black
Muscat of Alexandria.

There is some difference of opinion as to the
best Grapes to grow in private gardens for home
consumption. When I first started on my own
responsibility as a head gardener I was eager to
grow good Grapes and planted twenty-one va-
rieties. A famous gardener remarked to me at
the time that I had better reduce them to two-
Muscat of Alexandria and Black Hamburgh.
These are certainly the two best, but it is better
in a large establishment to grow a greater variety.
I therefore advise for the early vinery Black
Hamburgh and one vine each of Buckland
Sweetwater and Madrestield Court Black Mus-
cat ; for the Muscat house, Muscat of Alexan-
dria only ; and for the late house, Lady Downe's
Seedling, one or two plants of Royal Vineyard
and one or two of Mrs. Pince. Gros Colman,
Alicante and Gros Maroc I have found wanting.
They require more heat than the others ; in
fact, Gros Colman needs a house to itself to do
it well, and it is not worth it. Of course,
Grapes for market are a different matter. I am
well aware of the popularity of Gros Colman as
a market Grape. How long this popularity of
certain inferior fruits may last is another matter.
No Grape either for quality or long-keeping
properties can vie with Lady Downe's Seed-
ling. I have had it in capital condition since
November, and it will last until May ; indeed,
I have had fairly good fruit in June, but it is
not wanted after May. J. Douglas.

Pear Duchesse de Bordeaux. — This Pear is
very little known. I saw it in splendid condition this
season trained against a wall, very small trees bearing
freely This is a January Pear, therefore more valu-
able It is of a rich melting flavour, and was given a
first-class certificate by the Royal Horticultural Society
It was shown at the Pear conference at Chiswick and

THE GARDEN

[Jancary 5, 1895.

much admired. The fruits are above medium size,
yellow, and covered with russet spots. Some very fine
dis-hes were shown at the recent fruit exhibition at the
Crystal Palace.— S. H. B.

Grapes cracking. — A fertile source of crack-
ing in some Grapes is pointed out at p. 495, but
"J. C. B." rather exposes his own want of atten-
tion, and' does not quite clearly point out how to
avoid cracking. The only two varieties known
to me as liable to crack are Madresfield Court and
Royal Vineyard. Allowing Vines to become over-
dry at the roots before the Grapes have swelled
to their full size is a mistake no good gardener
would make. " J. C. B." did this, and did the
very worst thing he could do — gave the Vines "a
good soaking." No wonder the toughened skins
burst. Vines should be well watered all through
the growing period, and the last watering should
be thorough and given as the Grapes begin to
colour. By this treatment no check can be pos-
sible ; the roots never have been anything like
dry, and the thorough watering when colouring
begins will carry them well through the ripening
stage. All that is required to prevent cracking
is to keep a dry atmosphere with ample ventila-
tion in the house. The White Frontignan is not
very liable to crack (Chasselas Musque is pro-
bably the variety meant) ; it is a delicious Grape,
but scarcely worth the trouble required to keep it
from cracking. — J. Douolas.

THE PREMATURE RIPENING OF

PEARS, FLAVOUR, <fec.

This subject has been commented on in the gar
dening press, and also been a matter of conver-
sation among fruit growers for some time past.
Premature or early ripening is likely to continue
until the end of the Pear season, for now (a
week before Christmas) 1 have Beurre Ranee
ripening. This variety on the average does
not mature fully until the end of January. In
my case this late Pear always ripens well from
free-grown pyramids 12 feet to 15 feet in height ;
the fruits, it is true, are usually somewhat below
the average in size, but this is an advantage
rather than otherwise for their perfect matura-
tion. This season the fruits of both Beurre
Ranee and Josephine de Malines are smaller
than last year with me. One might reasonably
have assumed it to have been quite the reverse,
judging from the character of the two summers.
Last year these Pears ripened at their usual
time ; this year, as before stated, they are much
earlier. I am disposed to attribute this earlier
ripening not so much to this past season as to
the previous one, when, as we know quite well,
both the drought and the unusual continuance
of hot weather tended, if anything, to over-
ripen the wood of fruit trees. This I believe
to be the cause of the fruit this past season
ripening prematurely. I cannot in any way
attribute it to the additional rainfall or the
cooler weather during its growth. I think it is
rather to be sought for, as 1 have indicated, in
the previous conditions which tended to pro-
duce this season a fruitful rather than a woody
growth. The influences at work to cause such a
thorough ripening of the wood act also upon
the roots, causing these latter to be of a more
fibrous character. Next year I shall expect to
see Pears making a stronger growth, by reason of
the recent rainfall. I noted particularly that both
of the aforenamed Pears this season were ready
to gather nearly as much in advance of the
usual time as they are now in ripening. In
the case of Beurre Ranee this was particularly
noteworthy, the crop of which was excellent,
all seeming to mature for gathering simulta-
neously—so much so, in fact, that they had to
be handled witli great care to prevent them
falling. Josephine de Malines hung ten days or
a fortnight later than the foregoing. Anent the

former of these Pears, I note that a well-known
pomologist in his catalogue advises a wall (south
or west). With not the best possible locality
I have always had the most satisfactory
results from trees in the open — so much so, that
my wall trees of Beurre Ranee are no more,
having given place to dessert Plums. The finer
fruits, I readily admit, would be obtained from
wall trees, but what is the use of these finer
fruits if they will not after gathering ripen per-
fectly for the dessert ? They can of course be
used for stewing — that is one way out of the
difficulty — but for kitchen use give me either
Catillac or Uvedale's St. Germain over all
others. The increased attention given to grow-
ing what may be termed exhibition fruits has
not caused any advance in flavour (perhaps of
the two, otherwise, through coarseness); it has
rather tended towards size, which I readily
admit is only attainable by skilful culture and
attention ; but after all, extra large fruits, such
as usually win the premier prizes, are not such
as find the most acceptance upon the dinner
table. I do not for one moment justify what
may be deemed small or inferior examples ; to
strike the medium is not a difficult matter.

Whilst on this subject I am led to think of
one Pear in particular, viz., Marie Louise, of
which I have repeatedly noticed that the best
in point of flavour are the russetty brown ones
from pyramids or other trees in the open as
compared with the finer, but more tender
skinned examples from walls. Is not this dif-
ference to be attributed to the gain in the
former instance by the much more free circula-
tion of air going on around the fruits I I think
it is only reasonable to assume this to be the
case. I have noticed this same tendency in
point of flavour in Williams' Bon Chretien and
in a Pear that is too much condemned in regard
to flavour — Beurre Clairgeau, medium-sized
fruits of which are much the best. On the
whole I am disposed to think that the Pear is
not looked upon as being so hardy as it actually
is. I am well aware that the climate of the
Channel Islands is most favourable to the pro-
duction of fine fruits both from the point of
quality and size, but, situated as these said
islands are, I am very doubtful if these charac-
teristics can be attributed to the additional
warmth so much as to the genial breezes which
blow fiver them. Pear trees this season bid well
for blossom next year, more so in fact than I
should have thought, taking into consideration
the late growth that many trees made.

Southron.

Trees and Shrubs.

THE BAMBOO GARDEN".

PHVixosTAf'iiYS bambusoides. — The innumerable
claimants to this title have been finally sent out
of court as impostors now that the real Simon
Pure has been received from Hong Kong ; and
now that it has arrived it appears to have all the
characteristics of an Arundinaria, but Phyllo-
stachys it has been named by Munro, and Phyllo-
stachys, I suppose, it must remain. The stem,
which is said to grow to a height of from 10 feet
to 12 feet, is round and much branched, purplish
in colour, and slightly zigzagged ; the nodes are
thick and smooth, the branches are much knotted,
short, and semi-verticillate. The leaves are bright
green above, 5 inches long by 1 inch wide, but
very variable in size ; they are sharply serrated
on both edges. The leaf-sheaths are furnished at
the top with conspicuous bristles, which fall off
with age. The plant has every appearance of
proving a valuable addition to our collection of
hardy Bamboos, but the specimens which I have
seen are as yet mere babies.

Piiyllostachys aurea. — The distinctive name
aurea is not very happily chosen, for there is no-
thing golden about the plant unless it be the yel-
low stems, and these are not peculiar to the
variety named. P. aurea is not a great favouiite
of mine, as it lacks the grace which is the chief
ornament of the family. The stems are very
straight and erect in this country, growing close
round the base of the plant, which gives it the
appearance of having ca'spitous roots ; whereas it
has a true rhizome, which in its native climate
runs freely. It is seen at its best when planted
in bold masses, as the individual plant by itEelf
has too much of the shape of the birchen rod of
an old-fashioned dame's school in the kingdom of
Brobdingnag. A distinguishing feature of this
species is the shortness of the internodes at the
base of the stem. The leaves vary much in size,
some being about 4 inches long by half an inch
wide, others from 6 inches to 7 inches long by an
inch or even more broad. The petiole is well de-
fined, the insertion of the young leaves very
hairy. One edge of the leaf is conspicuously ser-
rated, the other very slightly, the teeth on this
edge being placed irregularly and at great dis-
tances apart. Both surfaces are glabrous. At
Shrubland, in Lord de Saumarez's garden, Phyllo-
stachys aurea is 14 feet 6 inches high, the canes
being 2j inches round. Last year, 1893, a Bam-
boo was received here and at Kew from Japan
under the name of Bambusa sterilis, which the
Japanese Gardeners' Association describe as
closely allied to Phyllostachys heterocycla. This
appeared to me to be undistinguishable from
Bambusa aurea, and Messrs. Watson and Bean
now share my opinion. Curiously enough, tho
plants were covered with an undeveloped in-
florescence, which proved to be infested with a
hitherto undescribed ergot. I may here note once
more the great confusion which has prevailed in
the descriptions of several of the Phyllostachys
tribe. Aurea, mitis, Quilioi, Henonis, viridi-
glaucescens, nexuosa have all been jumbled up in
the most hopeless tangle. This has been due
partly to the fact of plants being sent out by
dealers under any and every name, partly to the
eagerness of collectors to describe plants before
time had enabled them to develop their charac-
teristics. In a young state P. aurea is hardly to
be distinguished from P. mitis, but as they grow
older each puts forth its distinctive features and
asserts its identity. Messrs. Riviere remark that,
like as the two plants are in their early stages,
mitis never degenerates into aurea, nor does aurea
ever rise to the dignity of mitis.

Phyllostachys mitis. — This is the tallest and,
in that respect, the noblest of all the Bamboos
capable of being cultivated in this country. At
Shrubland the culms of plants imported seven
years ago are 19 feet 5 inches high and 4 J inches
in circumference. In China and Japan it grows
to 60 feet high. The stems, which spring straight
out of the ground like spears, are, when fully de-
veloped, beautifully arched, and have for that
reason a grace which is not to be found in P. aurea.
The young shoots when they first appear above
ground seem to hang fire for a while before taking
their upward growth. When once they start they
are very rapid, growing in this country as much
as 6 inches in the twenty-four hours. The utmost
growth that I have noticed is 4J inches in the
twenty-four hours ; but mine are young plants.
Messrs. Riviere have made most interesting ex-
periments on the growth of Bamboos, of which
they give tables. The maximum growth of an
adult plant of Phyllostachys mitis during twenty-
four hours in Algiers was 20 inches. They note
that P. mitis grows most during the night, where-
as the other plants of similar growth such as vi-
ridi-glaucescens, aurea, nigra, &c, make their chief
growth during the day. Bambusa Tulda, in
Bengal, is said to grow as much as three centi-
metres (upward of 1£ inches) in an hour. As in P.
aurea, the leaves, which vary much in size, are ser-
rated on one edge, the teeth being almost if not
quite absent on the other. The petiole is shorter
than in aurea, and the hairy growth at its inser-
tion less conspicuous. The sheaths diner much in

January 5, 1895 ]

THE GARDEN

3

colour, but are generally brownish and spotted
with purple. As the branches are developed the
withered sheaths drop off, leaving a shining deep
green stem which gradually ripens into a bright
yellow. The branching begins at the base, and as
soon as it is thoroughly active the growth of the
culm cease?. The underground process ion of the
rhizome is much more marked than in P. aurea,
the stems appearing alternately along its course.
Although its runningpowersarein this climate not
great, still, whereas in P. aurea there is a ciespitous
appearance, in P. mitis the rhizomatous character
is well maintained. The young shoots of this
Bamboo are eaten in China and Japan. Some
gastronomers profess to detect in them the taste
of Asparagus ; thi-,I confess, demands some f "ith.
The consistency is crisp and pleasant, like Celery,
but the flavour depends upon the sauce— at least
that is my experience. As pickles and sweetmeat s
they are but poor eating. To its culinary merits,
such as they are, the plant owes the synonym
edulis, which is at any rate less foolish than mitis.
Phyllostachys sclphurea. — A handsome gol-
den-stemmed Bamboo, which in appearance has
great affinity with P. mitis, though Messrs.
Riviere see a connection between it and P. flexuosa.
It is far stiffer and not so free a runner as flexuosa,
while the only difference which I can detect between
it and mitis is that it is not so tall and has a
morebrilliaLtly coloured stem. The other charac-
teristics are the same ; indeed, it would puzzle an
expert to tell them apart. Messrs. Watson ard
Bean lean to this opinion. It is perfectly hardy
and well worth cultivating, but difficult to obtain.
At Shrubland it is growing to a height of 13 feet,
with a circumference of 2| inches routdthe stem.
Phyllostachys Qt/ilioi. — A very distinct Bam-
boo, introduced from the north of Japan by the
French Admiral du Quilio in 1866. Some writers
see a great likeness between this and P. mitis,
P. aurea and P. viridi-glaucescens. To me it
appears to have a character altogether its own.
In the first place it has a far looser habit, the
branches are longer in proportion to the culm,
the leaves are larger, serrated on both edges and
often marked with purple spots on a deeper green
ground than is found in the foliage of either of
the others ; the hairs at the insertion of the leaves
are deep purple. The sheaths are most peculiar ;
they are of a pinkish-brown colour, deeply mottled
with purple spots, and, as they fall, reveal a
brilliantly polished dark green stem. The culms
are more upright than those of P. viridi-glauces-
cens, less compact and more arching than those of
P. mitis and P. aurea ; the rootstock is far more
active than in either of the two latter species (in
this country), while it does not seem to run so
much as that of P. viridi-glaucescens. I may be
in a minority, but I see in P. Quilioi a Bamboo to
be recognised among a thousand ; and the many
eminent botanists and gardeners to whom I have
shown it have without exception come round to
my opinion. I cannot help suspecting that those
who have described it hitherto have not had the
true plant before them. I know that this is the
case in one instance, where P. Quilioi was actually
described from a plant of P. mitis. Altogether
a notable Bamboo, growing at Shrubland to a
height of 18 feet 6 inches, the canes having a cir-
cumference of 3J inches. Synonym, Phyllostachys
Mazeli.

Phyllostachys viridi-glaucescens. — A most
elegant and graceful Bamboo, to which many cul-
tivators give the palm of loveliness. It grows to
a great height— nearly 18 feet at Shrubland, 14
feet at Kew — while the slender, tapering culms
are not more than 2 inches round. The rootstock
is very active, the plant being a great runner,
while many of the culms come almost horizontally
out of the ground, giving the plant a very wide
spread. The leaves are generally about 3 inches
or 4 inches long and about three -quarters of an
inch across; one edge is serrated, the other only
partially so towards the point of the leaf. The
petiole is well defined, and short brown hairs en-
circle the insertion of the leaf. The leaves are of
a bright green, in pretty contrast with violet
stems, which turn to a yellowish-green. The stem

is much zigzagged. Once established, this is a
perfectly hardy Bamboo, but it is not safe to plant
out specimens which have travelled ; I have lost a
large percentage in this way. It is better to pot
newly arrived plants and let them remain in a
cool house until they have recovered from the
effects of their journey.

Phyllostachys flexuosa.— Messrs. Watson and
Bean make this identical with P. viridi-glaucescens.
On the other hand, Messrs. Riviere, who recognise
the similarity, say, "We have not remarked in the
spathiform sheaths of this Bamboo the toothed
membranous expansions which we have met with
in many other species of the same group, notably
in. P. viridi-glaucescens." There is, moreover,
the fact that P. flexuosa flowered and fruited all
over France and in Algiers in 1871), vhileP. viridi-
glaucescens did not, and this would seem to in-
dicate a different plant. It is certainly not easy
to detect any outward and visible sign of differ-
ence between the two. P. flexuosa, which must
not be confounded with the prickly species de-
scribed under that name by Munro, was intro-
duced into France from the north of China in
1864.

Phyllostachys yiolascens. — This is now
reckoned to be a variety of P. viridi-glaucescens.
It is somewhat more tender, the leaves being apt
to be cut by frost, which gives the plant an ugly
appearance in winter, but with the spring the
culms are clothed with new foliage, and after all
it is only those shoots which come into existence
in the late autumn which suffer. The foliage is
rather darker and larger than the type and the
plant more straggling, the rhizomes running ram-
pantly. But the most distinctive feature is the
deep purple colour of the young stems during
their first year. This is lost in the two-year-old
stems, which change to a greenish yellow or
brown. The plants at Shrubland are 15 feet high
and the culms 2| inches in circumference. A beau-
tiful plant in its early growth, but on account of
the defects mentioned above hardly to be reckoned
one of the best of the hardy Bamboos.

Phtllostachts Henohis. — To my taste this is
the loveliest of all our Bamboos ; indeed, it would
need the inspiration of a poet to do justice to its
beauty. Nor is that its only merit, for it is per-
fectly hardy and bears up bravely against our
rudest and coldest weather. Of all the plants
that I imported not one has gone amiss, though
they were subjected to hardships to which, now
that I know better how to manage, I should not
dream of exposing them, and which proved fatal
to a good manv of their travelling companions.
The Shrubland'plants are now 14 feet high, the
stems 1 J inches in circumference. The tapering
leaves are about 4 inches long and about half an
inch across. They are very smooth on the upper
surface and ribbed on the lower, serrated on one
edge and very slightly on the other. The colour is
a pale green and less glaucous on the lower sur-
face than most of the leaves of Phyllostachys, the
midrib prominent, the petiole well defined. The
slender tall stems are green at first, growing yel-
lower with age, slightly zigzagged. The root-
stock runs rather freely. But it is to its habit
that this Bamboo owes its surpassing loveliness.
The two-year-old culms, borne down by the weight
of their own foliage, bend almost to the earth in
graceful curves, forming a groundwork of the
most elegant beauty, from which the stems of the
year spring up, arching and waving their feathery
fronds, the delicate green leaves seeming to float
in the air. I regard P. Henonis as the embodi-
ment of every grace to which plant life is heir.
The Japanese synonym is Ha-chiku, the Chinese
characters with which it is written signifying the
" light or volatile Bamboo."

Phyllostachys nigka.— This is perhaps the
best known, and from its black stems the most
easily recognised of the hardy Bamboos. On the
Riviera and in Algiers it grows to a height of
about 30 feet, the stems being nearly 6 inches
round. At Shrubland and at Kew it is 10 feet
high and the stems are 2 inches round. With me
the plant has been a little capricious and difficult
I to establish, but once it has taken hold of the

ground no Bamboo seems hardier. The stems are
of an olive-green colour during their first year of
growth, changing to shining black the following
year. They are slightly zigzagged. The leaves,
which are from 3 inches to4.| inches long by three-
quarters of an inch broad, are green on the upper
surface and glaucous underneath. The ihizorr.e
runs with some freedom. Messrs. Riviere call at-
tention to some peculiarities in the structure of
this Bamboo upon which, as they are more inte-
resting to the botanist than to the gardener, it is
unnecessary to dwell here. It is enough to say
that in Phyllostachys nigra wo have a plant of
striking beauty and undoubted hardiness. It is
said that it is the rhizome of P. nigra which fur-
nishes the Wanghai cane of commerce, to which
allusion has already been made.

Phyllostachys nic.ro- punctata. — A variety cf
Phyllostachys nigra, taller, and a looser and more
free grower than the type. The stems, green at
first, change in their second year to a dull brow n
speckled with black. There is no other character-
istic to differentiate it from P. nigra.

Phyllostachys Boryana. — Another and still
larger variety of Phyllostachys nigra, one of the
handsomest and most vigorous of the hardy Bam-
boos, very graceful in its habit, as indeed are both
P. nigra and P. nigro-punctata. As in their
case, the stems are green during their first year,
but change colour the second year to a dull
brown splashed with large deep purple or black
blotches. This and the preceding variety have
proved more easy to establish than the type. I
have not lost a single plant of either, though they
have been subjected to great hardships: whereas
P. nigra, as I have already said, has been apt to
resent rough treatment. One peculiarity of all
three varieties is noteworthy. The rhizomes are
fond of running very near tlie surface of the earth,
sometimes, indeed, above the surface. When
this is detected it is advisable to cover them with
a little loose soil, which may be kept down with
a light stone. This encourages the verticillate
roots to strike downwards. Failing this, I have
known the rhizome to be killed back and the de-
velopment of the plant to that extent retarded.

Phyllostachys Castillonis.— A mest lovely
plant, indeed one of the best of the many good
gifts which we owe to Japanese gardens. The
foliage is larger than it is in most of the Bamboos,
some of the leaves being as much as between 8
inches and 9 inches long by nearly 2 inches broad.
When they first appear they are striped with
bright orange-yellow, which in time fades to a
creamy white. Both edges are serrated. The
petiole is short, the leaf-sheath dressed with a frill
of long brownish purple hairs. The stem, which
is much zigzagged, is bright yellow and green, the
latter colour remaining in the deep channels left
by the pressure of the branches, so that the two
colours are alternate all the way up the culm,
the hues being intensified with age. As the
sheaths of the branchlets are of a very pretty
pink, the plant has a tri-coloured effect, which is
most pleasing ;thebranchescomeintwosand threes.
My plants in their second year have grown to
about 6 feet, and have every appearance of attain-
ing a goodly height and proportionate circum-
ference. Twenty-four degrees of frost last January
(1894) did them no harm, but M. Marliac tells me
that the foliage is apt to suffer from snow. This,
however, can at the worst be only a temporary
evil One of my plants is extremely curious as a
variation from the type. Not only is the variega-
tion absent from the leaves, which are bright
green, but in the stems its position is exactly
reversed, the channels being yellow and the rest
of the culms green. The Japanese name is
Kimmei-ehiku, " the golden brilliant Bamboo.

Phyllostachys kcmasasa (P. viminalis, Mar-
line) _ A pretty little Bamboo, described by
Munro as P. kumasaca, though the Japanese
name is bungozasa. The stems are about 18
inches high, purplish green in colour, with brown
sheaths, much zigzagged and very slender, dis-
tinctly channelled from the pressure of the
branches, which spring in twos and threes, some-
times in fours from the nodes. The leaves are

THE GARDEN.

[January 5, 1895.

from 2 inches to 4 inches in length, and an inch,
more or less, in width ; ovate ; soft hairs very
conspicuous on the lower surface, but none on the
upper surface or on the insertion of the leaves,
which are serrated on both edges. By giving the
name kumasaca to this Bamboo, Munro has given
rise to some difficulty. Sasa (in composition after
a vowel zasa) is a Japanese version of the two
Chinese words hsiao chu (small Bamboo), and is
the generic name given by the Japanese to the
dwarf Bamboos ; chiku, another Japanese version
of the Chinese word chu (Bamboo), and take, a
pure Japanese word, being the names given to
the tall-growing or arborescent Bamboos. Kuma
signifies an edge or border. The etymology of
the word kumazasa (barbarously altered by Munro
into kumasaca) would seem to point to the Arun-
dinaria Veitchi, on account of its leaves withering
at the edge in winter, and so having an edge or
border margin. It is certainly often used in that
sense by natives. Japanese botanists, however,
apply the name to Arundinaria tessellata or
Ragamowski, while our English botanists, fol-
lowing Munro, give it to Phyllostachys viminalis,
which the Japanese call bungozasa, probably from
the province of that name in the southern island.
There is thus a triangular duel between science,
etymology and common use, which is most
bewildering, and so long as this lasts it would
seem wiser to leave the Japanese names alone,
contenting ourselves with the European nomen-
clature. But when science does find it necessary
to adopt words taken from a foreign tongue with
which she is unacquainted, she will do well to
avoid altering consonants, as Munro did when he
made saca out of sasa, or she may get herself into
dire trouble. Try it upon a few English mono-
syllables ! Synonym, Phyllostachys viminalis.
A. B. Freeman-Mitford.

Hypericum nepalense (p. 476).— Surely Mr.
Wolley-Dod is wrong in asserting that the plant
(shrub) long known in gardens under this name
and that grown as H. patulum are the same.
These plants grow here probably as well as they
do anywhere. I have seen H. nepalense 10 feet
to 12 feet high, while I have never seen H. patulum
even in the case of long-established bushes more
than 3 feet to 4 feet high. In both leaf and flower
characters they differ widely, one of the most
striking characters of nepalense being the bril-
liant scarlet colour which many of the leaves (not
altogether, but one here and there) take on in the
autumn, a feature never seen in patulum, though
it occasionally occurs in the case of H. oblongi-
folium. The late M. Lavallee calls our patulum
H. Gumbletoni (Hort. Scgrez), and gives the
synonymy as H. patulum, Hort. (non Thunb.), Rev.
Hort., 1875, H. nepalense, Hort. (non Choisy) ;
then he makes H. uralum a distinct species, and
gives H. uralense (Hort.) as its syn. — T. Smith,
Newry.

Flower Garden.

GLADIOLI.

When commenting in The Garden some little
time ago on the fine development of our exhibit
of these flowers at the R.H.S. Gardens, Chis-
wick, you ask if we give the plants any special
culture, or if the delicate coloured varieties are
more difficult to grow than the darker self-
coloured kinds. As regards the various col-
ours there is little difference, and much de-
pends on the constitution of individual varie-
ties as to whether they increase rapidly or not.
Some very fine varieties scarcely produce spawn ;
consequently are more difficult to grow than
others which do so more or less abundantly.
Yellow shades of colour are, as a rule, the
most prolific. As regards culture, suitable soil,
in my opinion, is the most important thing.
Nearly all writers on Gladioli lay great stress

on the soil being light and sandy for the ganda-
vensis hybrids. Here we grow them in a soil
exactly the reverse of this — strong, adhesive
yellow loam, which sticks together like putty,
and in which not a particle of sand is visible,
neither is any mixed with the soil or placed
round the bulbs in planting, so common with
most cultivators. In place of sand we use a little
burnt earth over each bulb, just enough to en-
sure the new bulb lifting clean in the autumn.
Sand is entirely dispensed with here from rais-
ing the seed and small bulblets onwards, both
of which have a fairly good holding loam from
the commencement. A light sandy humus soil
I should consider the worst for encouraging
disease and failure. Sometimes it is suggested
that the ground intended to be planted with
Gladioli might with advantage be fallowed the
previous summer, and this was the plan adopted
by the late M. Souchet, the originator of the
fine race of gandavensis hybrids, still the most
noble and beautiful of the genus. Whilst ad-
mitting the advantage most crops derive from
this system of cultivation, I fancy few people
would care to have bare patches of fallow in
their gardens, and even on our own strong loam
we have not found it necessary to adopt this
plan. Probably M. Souchet adopted the system
more with the idea of destroying the cockchafer
grub, or ver blanc, as it is called in France, so
destructive in some parts of his grounds, and to
the young stock of Gladioli generally, as we can
testify during hot seasons here. The benefit
accruing to the soil was probably of quite
secondary importance. I believe a similar plan
of fallowing the ground is sometimes adopted on
some of the Dutch bulb farms , boxes being placed
to encourage the nesting of starlings, which
greedily devour the cockchafers whenever the
ground is freshly broken up and the grubs ex-
posed to view.

Cultivation.

We mostly plant our Gladioli on ground where
Roses have been sold off the previous autumn,
and during December or January this is thrown
up roughly, and advantage taken to turn it
over once or twice later to become well pulver-
ised before the planting season arrives. At the
final digging we turn in deeply a small quantity
of well decayed manure, but are particular that
this does not come into contact with the bulb.
Planting geuerally commences towards the end
of March or early in April, and continues at in-
tervals over about a month. As soou as growth
is well above ground hoeing is commenced, and
continued at intervals until the blooming season
arrives. Little or no watering is done, but
sometimes a few beds are mulched very lightly
with short straw. We carefully avoid mulching
with rank or decayed manure or applying liquid
manure, both of which we consider fruitful
sources of disease. Other bad practices are care-
fully avoided, such as leaving the stems on
after lifting the bulbs and laying them away to
dry off in this state. Keeping the bulbs in sand
or dry earth, or putting numbers together in
paper bags until they start into premature
growth, which they quickly do, and soon become
masses of roots in the bags, arising from the
moisture of many bulbs coming into close con-
tact with each other, are common and fruit-
ful sources of failure in Gladioli culture, as is
also the practice of adding to the beds turfy
loam, which invariably contains wireworm, a
most destructive pest to Gladioli. Much has
been written about the

Hardiness

of Gladioli and the advisability of leaving them
in the ground during winter. Here we find the

gandavensis and Lemoinei varieties are both
comparatively hardy if the bulbs are in the
ground to a depth of about 7 inches. After
severe winters, without protection, we have
numbers come up in the spring, which blcom
strongly the same year, from bulbs missed in lift-
ing the previous autumn, and which by accident
have been dug deeper into the ground than the
usual depth of planting. From this it may be
inferred that both sections are hardy when
planted sufficiently deep in well-drained soil.
Especially would this be so near the coast, where
frost is less severe than here. Although we
leave a portion of our young stock in the ground
during winter, I do not advocate the practice
generally. Gladioli dislike excessive wet, which
is possibly more harmful than frost, and many
of the corms have a hollow crown-like basin,
which makes it difficult for water to pass freely
away. Another drawback is the decay of the
old corm in close contact with the newly-formed
one from which the following summer's bloom
is expected. The old corm as it slowly rots
becomes infested with worms and grubs, which
in turn frequently attack the new corm, and
by this means cause it to become unhealthy.
Annual lifting has also the further advantage
of allowing the bulbs to be divided and cleaned
and of their being replanted in well cultivated
soil, matters of much importance in their suc-
cessful cultivation. Gladioli with us are much
the finest in a hot and comparatively dry season.
During the early part of the hot summer of 18f'3
the flowers and spikes were of a size and beauty
never previously attained.

We find Gladioli fairly easy to manage, and
are able to keep up a healthy stock of most of
the old-established varieties, and to increase
vigorous stock of any good seedlings forming
bulblets, but through lack of this propensity
many fine seedlings are slow and difficult to
increase. The mole is our greatest enemy, and
the depredations of this subtle animal cause
more losses than all other evils put together.

If Gladioli do not succeed under certain
modes of cultivation and fail in some gardens,
might not the same charge be brought against
many other garden plants. Take the Carnation
as one example. In how many gardens are
healthy collections of named varieties of even
the more robust border kinds kept up without
frequent renewals of fresh stock '? I fancy in
only a few favoured spots, although the ortho-
dox rules of culture may have been strictly
carried out. A large trade grower of these
plants recently remarked that he annually pro-
vides about 100,000 to meet losses. By vary-
ing modes of cultivation, exchange of stock,
<fec, the specialist overcomes difficulties, and is
enabled to provide healthy stock. So with
Gladioli. It is, as your correspondent " En-
thusiast " states when he quotes the old adag^,
" That where there's a will there's a way." If it
were otherwise, the large trade growers of
these flowers would not be able to offer, as
they do, by the hundred every season bulbs
of sorts which have been in existence for con-
siderably over a qiiarter of a century. Perhajs
the old French variety Meyerbeer was never
previously exhibited of so fine a size and sub-
stance as by us during the past season from
stock raised here, yet it is a variety dating
back at least a quarter of a century. Horace
Vernet, a now somewhat old variety, was another
notable example of healthy vigour and beauty
in old age. There are many other old favour-
ites so easily increased where the cultivation of
these flowers is well understood, that they may
be purchased anywhere for a few pence each.

Cambridge. J. Burrell.

January 5, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

SUB-TROPICAL PLANTS AT TORQUAY.

The plant that is above all others valuable for
sub-tropical gardening is, without doubt, Musa
Ensete, the graceful sweep and emerald folds of
its giant leaves associating themselves naturally
with tropic skies and Grass hammocks, and
suggesting recollections of the frondage of fruit-
ing Bananas waving listlessly beneath the faint
trade wind. Though it is not often that in
this much-maligned island we are treated to
the weather of the tropics, there are spots in
England where during most summers Musas
may be seen flourishing in the open, the
popular seaside town which furnishes the scene

Musas, Daturas (Brugmansias) and Hedy-
chiums luxuriate in the warm autumn weather
and have been known to pass through the
winter alive. Such a course in the case of
these subjects should not, however, be at-
tempted except by way of experiment, as even
if they survive they are so late in starting into
growth, that they rarely have time to become

whipped into ragged fringes by the boisterous
winds of the Mediterranean, as may be seen any
spring day at Algiers. S. W. F.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.

Gillenia (Spiraea) trifoliata. — Of all the
Spiraeas, whether woody or herbaceous, this is

ornamental before the advent of the next cold ] perhaps the most difficult to propagate. It makes
weather.

Musas should be kept in heat during the
winter in order to induce strong growth,
shifting them into a cool house in May and
planting out in rich soil during the month of

of the accompanying illustration being one of i June. Care should be taken to disturb the
them. Many years ago it occurred to certain ball of earth as little as possible in planting, as
residents in Torquay that their equable climate it is important that no check should be received
— the influences of the tail-end of the Gulf at this juncture. In one garden, where a

Musa Ensete in the garden at Ponsonby, Torquay. Engraved for The Garden* from a photograph

sent by Mr. Hodder.

long, direct, but somewhat crumpled roots that
are considerably swollen at their deeper parts,
and they are not very fibrous. At anytime if the
plants lose these roots they suffer a considerable
check. There are two ways of propagation that
I practise with success. One in the case of young
plants that I should not care to lift, the other by
means of old plants by root division. In the
case of young plants, the young growths may be
taken in early summer, and slipped off1 the wood-
stock by a backward wrench. These
treated in the ordinary way as summer
cuttings make nice little plants for
the autumn, but they will be a year
or two before they produce flowers in
the profuse way for which this species
is so justly admired. The division of
old strong roots is a more trying
business, because the crown is so
woody and hard, that you may easily
lose the finer crowns by not securing
to them their complement of roots.
A knife is scarcely strong enough for
this operation, so hard is the woody
crown. I have to use the hatchet,
driven by a heavy hammer. If you
succeed in dividing these fairly, the
plants may be relied upon to flower
as well the first year as cuttings might
do in their third, and yet to see this
plant in all its beauty it should be left
alone for many years without disturb-
ance.

Gillenia (Spiraea) stipulacea.—
This, seen growing, somewhat closely
resembles trifoliata, but there are im-
portant differences. The feature im-
plied by the specific name is an almost
unnoticeable botanical one. The gar-
dener will sooner notice that it has
softer and more procumbent stems and
perhaps a less profuse flowering habit.
It is in reference to the better facili-
ties for propagation compared witli
trifoliata, of which I have just been
speaking, that this plant will show
its wider variation. It makes more
distinct offsets, so that in the case of
plants a few years old you may take
the offset roots with a fair amount of
fibre, and they make good plants the
first year. The Gillenias have a dis-
tinct and delicate beauty all their
own, and are pre-eminently suited for
growing in semi-boggy places inter-
spersed with such subjects as the Bog
Irises, Bamboos, and other similar strong

stream — and the spacious gardens iu which for great point was made of sub-tropical bedding,
the most part their villas were ensconced, were a bed of large Musas was always the piece de
alike favourable to the growth of sub-tropical resistance. In this instance the plants were
vegetation. The experiment was tried, sue- grown during the winter in paraffin casks sawn
ceeded, and has since become a cult. Now, in half, and when put out were wheeled to the
with their Palms, Drac;enas, and Phormiums sides of the holes prepared for them, the hoops
many gardens present a Riviera-like aspect, knocked off the tubs, which were then pulled
and there are few without some specimen that to pieces and the balls gently lowered into
attests the geniality of the west country atmo- , their places. The plants were quite 0 feet high
sphere. Dracrena (Cordyline) iudivisa and when planted out, and never felt the move,
australis grow to a large size and flower well. The great enemy to the Musa is the wind. It

Chamrerops Fortunei and excelsa attain goodly is therefore advisable to plant in as sheltered but welcome harbingers of thebrighter season,
proportions. The New Zealand Flaxes, both a spot as is available, for should the leaves be Anthericum liliastrum.— It is true that the
the type and the variegated variety, are tho- much torn, its chief charm is lost. St Brun0 Ldv never looks better than when

roughly at home, and throw up candelabrum- ] There are few more beautiful sights than a ' wn ;n bold groups. I have had it in single
like flower - spikes year after year. Aralia i Banana garden in a quiet valley in some West Specimens with seventy or 100 spikes, but with
(Fatsia) japonica becomes almost a tree in a I Indian isle, with every leaf intact and each a me jt invariably reaches a certain point of per-
surprisingly short space of time, while during harmony of colour, with its soft gradations of fection, and the following year may by corn-
most summers an Agave americana can be green in the mingled sunshine and shade — few parison be said to be a failure. In such cases I
found in bloom in the neighbourhood. more pitiable than a plantation with leaves have always found the symptoms the same.

Lilie
growers.

Snowdrops.— I wonder what these are going
to do ? By the kindness of Mr. Allen and several
other garden friends at home and abroad I am put
in possession of a considerable collection, and
nearly all thus early are spearing through and
showing the fat buds, already becoming distinctly
white. We suppose that the winter has yet to
begin. No doubt, as usual, when the frosts come
they will heave up the soil for nearly an inch, and,
it is hoped, will so cover up again these humble,

THE GARDEN

[January 5, 1895.

Whether a cause or an effect of the lost vigour of
the plants is not quite so clear to my mind, but
I always find the most densely matted roots more
or less cankered, with a strong and disagreeable
smell. I take it that the oldest and decaying
roots, from their contact, may have contaminated
the whole. The stock, however, is by no means
lost if dealt with promptly. The mass of roots
only needs to be washed out, and all the crowns
divided into single ones. These may be reset
any time now when the frost is not in the ground,
and they respond with remarkable vigour the first
year, and, what is more, if these single crowns
are placed somewhat closely, the idea of a bold
group can be maintained. I have noticed lately
that though there are larger forms — majus and
giganteum — this, the dwarf type, fully holds its
own, and by many is the most esteemed.

Iiithospermum rosmarinifolium. — This in
the open, owing to the continued mild weather,
and notwithstanding the two short periods of
frost, respectively here 12° and 8°, is now showing
bloom, and I was pleased to read Mr. Buxton's
notes in these columns a fortnight ago that he
had a similar experience. It is an exquisite little
shrub. As implied by the name, it resembles a
little bush of Rosemary, and the spikes of blue
flowers are of a colour only found in the Litho-
spermums and the Gentians. I think I can ven-
ture to recommend the planting of this species in
sunny nooks of an otherwise well-exposed rockery,
in deep seams of rich soil, where its roots may
pierce deeply and never lack the needful moisture.
I daresay that in some localities, or planted indis-
criminately, it might be killed in very severe
winters, but it is quite one of those species that
is worthy of a little care, and when I say a little
care, I mean no more, because I am quite sure I
can keep it out-of-doors in my Yorkshire climate
by fixing over it a few sprays of dry Bracken
during the severer part of the winter. A more
important point to watch is that you do not allow
it to be overshadowed during summer, as then
the shoots and evergreen foliage would be wanting
in the ripeness essential for safety.

Chrysobactron (Anthericum) Hookeri. —
There can be no better time than the present for
dealing with overgrown plants of this. That the
plants do become overgrown or — to be more precise
— overcrowded is beyond doubt. The root habit is
fleshy, twisted, and, with age, much congested.
When plants that have been thriving reach the
age of five or seven years, it is profitable in every
sense of the word to divide them and give them
fresh soil. According to my experience the plants
attain their greatest vigour and beauty at the age
of about four years. After that the foliage and
flower-spikes, which may be equally numerous, or
even increased, are lessened in vigour, and if you
examine the roots of such plants you will readily
find the cause. The fine shining coppery-green
leaves surround the almost golden scapes, which
reach a height of 2 feet, and nearly half that
length beset with closely compacted flowers of
the true old gold yellow. To anyone not ac-
quainted with the plant it would almost suggest
itself as too tender for out of doors, but I think we
have no plant more hardy— at any rate, it never
suffers from frost, not even the late frosts.

The Elecampane (Inula Helenium). — I sup-
pose we may consider this one of our noblest
British plants. It attains magnificent dimensions,
and I know nothing so appropriate and effective
for flanking or backing up groups of Lilies.
Established stools in rich land throw up spikes
7 feet high, and the shuttlecock arrangement of
the enormous radical leaves is telling to a degree.
I have seen them 3 feet to 4 feet long and nearly
1 foot wide. It is needless to describe further
to show the many uses that a stately plant like
this may be put — in shrubberies as isolated
specimens bordering lawns, sunny, but sheltered
hillsides, or even the wild garden where there is
but partial shade. In every way it is a reliable
plant if you give it good deep soil and keep it clear
of other plants. For small gardens I should say
that it would be totally out of place.

Meconopsis Wallichi. — I would not cover
this up during the winter in any way that had the
least tendency to smother its hairy foliage. If you
do so I fear you will find when the covering is
removed that the handsome foliage has become
more or less decayed ; besides, there is no neces-
sity for it. It is perfectly hardy, and during our
wettest winters, notwithstanding its hairy cover-
ing, it manages to roll off the wet in globules if
other material does not come into contact with it.
A sheet of glass borne over its head by some con-
trivance would be different— better — helpful, as in
that case there would be no contact. Of course,
we must remember it is but a biennial, and that
nothing will save plants after they have once
flowered. But, beautiful as the pale blue flowers
of this species are, I think the yellowish green
rosettes of foliage, beset with their long silky
hairs, are quite as effective in the first year of the
plant's life as the dying glory of its flowers. It
enjoys heavy, almost clay-like, loam and a wet
situation, with as much sunshine as it can get.
Just now and all through the winter it is one of
those plants that may be looked upon with plea-
sure, and which helps to sustain our interest in
our gardens until the advent of spring flowers.

Tulipa sylvestris. — I do not know why we
should take up our Tulip bulbs every year, at any
rate those of the species, and I am quite sure that
we not only need not do so in the case of this
one, but that it will be infinitely more profitable
to leave it alone in every way except one, and
that is, if you love it, give it room. It may not
be generally known that this Tulip spreads itself
deeply underground by means of root-stolons, and
that is what I mean by saying give it room. I
have just had occasion to disturb an old group of
seven or eight years' standing, originally formed
of but six bulbs, and I found the progeny in a
patch some 8 feet or 9 feet across. I ought to say
that the land was rich and light and the position
as sunny as possible. Everybody ought to grow
this Tulip, glistening pale yellow, with casual
edgings of red. Very frequently the scapes carry
two flowers, but the most valuable property of all
is the piquant aromatic perfume. As a flower for
picking it is perfect. The bulbs are very small
for the size of plant and flower. J. Wood.

Woodrille, Kirkxtall.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
In all operations connected with the annual raising
of the stock of summer-bedding plants there is a
growing tendency to rely more on those obtainable
from seed, and that being so an early inspection of
catalogues is imperative, many varieties having to
be in by the end of the month to secure good
plants. Advantages claimed for seedlings in lieu
of cuttings are chiefly that attention for five
months in the year is dispensed with, and also that
the plan adapts itself to limited accommodation in
the way of glass. A lot of August-struck cuttings
require a proportionately large share of room ;
whilst, on the other hand, one small warm house
will hold a lot of pans and boxes for seedlings, and
by the time these are ready to prick off, pits that
have been emptied of the earliest Potatoes, French
Beans and Asparagus can be filled with them. A
great variety of plants is now obtained in this
way ; in fact selections from all the different
families used for the summer display would be in-
cluded in the list, herbaceous plants, choice bed-
ders, sub-tropical plants, specialities for particular
work, and the best of the annuals. For those not
conversant with the proper time for sowing it may
be noted that herbaceous plants designed for the
formal garden, as, for instance, Antirrhinums and
Pentstemons, should be sown about the end of
February ; choice bedding plants, Begonias and
Centaureas, for example, early in the same month,
most of the sub-tropical plants at the same time,
and the commoner bedding plants and the best
annuals, Lobelia, Verbena, Petunia, and Zinnias
among others, some time in March. Plants for
special purposes should be raised so that they can
be grown along into nice stuff by the time they are
required. Golden rules to be followed in the rais-

ing of all the above plants are to sow carefully
and at the proper time, to keep in an even tem-
perature, to prick off as soon as practicable, to
grow on quickly, and where necessary to allow a
suitable time for hardening off. Where seedlings
are used somewhat extensively, it may also be
noted that one should be able to thoroughly rely
on the strain so as to have the right thing in the
right place. A mistake does not matter so much
in the wild garden, but is sometimes awkward in
small beds in prominent places. Two cases in
point that came under my notice last year are
illustrations of this. One was a group of small
beds planted with a strong growing Petunia,
that would have been very fine in a bed
some score feet or more square, but that was
quite out of character in tiny circles that one
could step across, and another case was that of a
lot of Antirrhinums that should have gone up
quite 2 feet, but that proved pigmy varieties and
were flowering at 6 inches. The different types
of Begonias furnish material for the same argu-
ment. The big-flowered, big-foliaged varieties
are doubtless fine for massing in quantity, or as a
set-off to a nicely contrasting carpet, but for
small beds the semperflorens type is infinitely pre-
ferable. I suppose it is matter for congratula-
tion that so many different forms are available.
Our giant or California Petunias and strong seed-
ling Verbenas are as useful in their way as the
dwarf, compact types. The Centaurea candidis-
sima is probably the best silvery-foliaged plant
we have and a long way better than the sickly
variegation furnished by some Geraniums, and its
usefulness is the more apparent when we find that
white-flowering bedders of that size are somewhat
scarce. Of course, in dwarfer subjects we have
the lovely White Swan Viola and the really ex-
cellent novelty White Lady Lobelia, and in taller
plants the very useful white Antirrhinum, but the
medium size in whites gives us rather shy-flowering
subjects, as Pelargoniums, or of miffy habit, as
white Verbenas. Taller white flowers, all exceed-
ingly useful in the flower garden in different
ways, are the Sweet Tobacco and white Mar-
guerites, with Guiding Star (pompon) and Con-
stance (decorative) Dahlias. These last three,
however, would be included in plants raised from
cuttings, and are therefore not admissible among
seedlings. I have included sub-tropical plants in
the list of those obtainable from seed. Only,
however, in very large gardens are they required
in quantity ; the small and average sized places
can be furnished from a sowing of Eucalyptus
globulus and E. citriodora, Acacia lophantha,
Grevillea robusta and a few plants of Nicotiana
colossea— a very useful acquisition that comes
readily and quickly from seed, is a kindly and
quick grower, and an efficient and cheap substi-
tute for large-leaved sub-tropical plants. With
the above, if there is much covering of balconies,
4c, to be done, may be sown a nice batch of
Cobam scandens, the best and quickest summer
climber we have. The seed is best sown singly in
small pots, placing it on edge.

Novelties. — It is seldom advisable to accept
these and plant them the first season in promi-
nent places in the flower garden unless one has
previously seen them doing well under similar
conditions. Nor is it always advisable in the
case of beds of mixed seedlings. Verbenas,
Phlox, and Nemesia are generally satisfactory,
but such things as Begonias and Petunias are apt
to vary considerably and to present in their
variety features not consistent with the best type
of flower garden arrangements. Of things tried
last summer for the first time that have certainly
" come to stay " were the semperflorens type of
Begonia, Dunrobin Bedder Fuchsia, a capital
strain of blue Petunia, and the new Lobelias Bar-
nard's Perpetual and White Lady. There were
a few light blue stragglers in the latter variety,
but we were careful in propagating and have got
it true. A characteristic of this variety would
seem to be its winter-flowering properties. The
stock plants are now (December 28) quite studded
with bloom, and have been gay for some time.
One of the best introductions of 1894 was proj

Jancaby 5, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

bably tho new yellow Viola Prince of Orange. I
should say it is likely to rank as about the very
best yellow bedding plant of its size in cultiva-
tion. We shall take advantage of a wet day early
in the year to overhaul the stock of pot plants that
are required through the summer months in the
immediate neighbourhood of the mansion. Big
plants of Heliotrope, Fuchsias, Aloysias, and
scented Pelargoniums will bo thinned out, cut
back where required, and some of the top soil re-
moved preparatory to replacing with a bit of
good loam and cow manure. A good batch of the
variegated form of Aspidistra lurida that we rind
very useful for mixing in with flowering plants is
similarly treated. Zonal Pelargoniums consti-
tute the bulk of the smaller plants used (they
stand the exposed situation much better than
large -flowering Begonias, Fuchsias, and Lilies) ;
these are also cut back and top - dressed
with a bit of good stuff. They will stand in the
same pots for years with this annual top-dressing
and the help of manure water in summer only ;
the drainage must be reduced to a minimum,
just one crock, and a small handful of cow ma-
nure over the same. A good many varieties are
grown, but this is hardly necessary if one has a
few good things in the different shades. Raspail,
Jacob}', Constance, and Queen of the Belgians
are four excellent sorts. A capital plant for dot-
ting occasionally among the Pelargoniums is
Francoa ramosa. This has come wonderfully
to the fore of late years, and is nearly always to
be found in outdoor group3. It should have cool
treatment right away from the cutting pot ; in-
deed anything in the way of warmth, especially
moist warmth, is, as a rule, fatal to the proper
development of the flower-spike. . Campanula
pyramidalis and p. alba are also, when well
grown in pots, very effective in connection with
the outdoor grouping of plants. Some plants of
Nicotiana atfinis in pots are always useful. This
is a charming evening plant, and its delicate per-
fume is much appreciated ; it is a worthy com-
panion to the Heliotropes and Alovsias above
mentioned. Sweet Peas in pans for covering a
stretch of lattice-work formed a pleasing feature
Ia«t summer in connection with the grouping of
pit plant=, and the pans will be cleared and re-
filled with some good soil ready for early sowing.
Claremout. E. Burrki.l.

treatment as an annual, but then only a late
summer and autumn bloom is the result. Per-
haps others who have grown it over several
seasons will give us some information as to their
experience, but it seems to me that the proper
course is to treat it as a biennial, certainly
so if we want a large bold group of it.
If well grown it flowers so freely that it
will in the end die. The first group that I
grew bloomed from early summer till early
winter, but not one plant survived. In two
smaller groups of plants raised last year some
plants at the present time have strong side
shoots that will certainly grow again another
year, whilst those that flowered very freely are
very weak and in all probability will die. Some
may think this discouraging, but the plant pro-
duces and ripens an abundance of seed even
whilst flowering, and it is advisable if prolonged
blooming is desired to keep the faded flower-
heads picked off, except such as are wanted
for seed. In raising it from seed, slight varia-
tions occur as regards the size of flowers, and it
will be wise therefore to encourage and save
seed from the finest.

Even if we eventually come to treat it entirely
as an annual, this will not detract from its
value, for it is a graceful flower and worthy of
special care. Raising a batch of seedlings once
a year is easily done. The seed may be sown
at any time in spring and strong plants be ready to
put out into their flowering quarters in autumn.
The leaves of this species are quite distinct
from those of C. lanceolata, being large, long,
pinnate, and like those of the old C. auricu-
lata. Its handsome flowers are borne on strong
steins 12 inches to 18 inches in length, and the
plate by no means exaggerates their size. In
the garden the flowers are brilliant and long-
lasting, and they are also valuable for cutting.

A. H.

The Week's Work.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 995.
COREOPSIS GRANDIFLORA.

(WITH A COLOURED r-LATE.*)

Four years ago when I saw this plant flowering
in the nursery of Mr. Thompson, of Ipswich, to
whom we are indebted for its introduction, I
ventured to predict that it would soon become
popular and be extensively grown. It has al-
ready found numerous admirers, but doubtless
as yet many will not have grown or seen it, and
the publication of the accompanying plate, in
which its fine size and rich colour are so well
shown, will further help to popularise it. It fully
deserves its name, as its flowers are very much
larger than those of any other Coreopsis grown
in gardens, whether annual or perennial. When
first introduced it was said, on the authority of
Dr. Gray, that its blooms were about the same
size as those of C. lanceolata,but it was not long
in cultivation before it produced flowers that al-
together surpassed in size and beauty even the
best forms of the olderC. lanceolata. Agaio, Dr.
Gray was undecided as to whether it should be
considered an annual or perennial species, and
even now it is not possible to make any definite
declaration on the point. It is amenable to

* Drawn for The Garden hy H. G. Moon at
Gravetye Manor. Lithographed and printed by
Guillaume Severeyns.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

SELECTING seeds. — The season is at hand for

selecting the various kinds of seeds necessarj- for
the coming season, and the earlier they are secured
the better the quality, while there is less fear of
any kind being sold out. It is none too early to
commence sowing, so that there is no gain in
leaving this work. Such things as early Radishes,
Peas and Potatoes will need attention, and there
is more leisure now than when the season is more
advanced. In the selection of novelties much de-
pends upon the means to grow them and the pur-
pose for which they are required when grown. If
cost is a consideration, one must grow old things
that can be relied upon.

Green vegetables.— Owing to the absence of
frost there is no lack of green vegetables of every
kind. Such things as Coleworts and Cabbage
planted for autumn use have, so far, never re-
ceived a check. With such mild weather it will
be wise to save all forcing roots as much as possi-
ble, as in the early spring the green crops will run
so quickly that there will then be a greater diffi-
culty in providing a varied supply than at any
other season Cauliflowers and Broccoli, so far, have
done well, and though later kinds will get
damaged should severe frosts follow, so far these
have been more plentiful than usual. The early
varieties of winter Broccoli are much earlier than
usual. I have February varieties showing at this
date. These may be retarded by lifting, plant-
ing closely together and protecting in severe
weather. The Kales should be reserved for later
supplies, as these will stand sharp weather if
hardily grown. A good breadth of late Seakale
will be invaluable in May if reserved for that pur-
pose. The crowns will only need covering with
fine ashes, banking up soil later to blanch the

growths. If leaf mould or litter is plentiful it may
be used as a top covering.

Mushrooms.— These should now be plentiful
if previous calendar notes have been carried out.
With a high outside temperature everything has
favoured the growth of Mushrooms, as the re-
quired temperature will have been maintained
without recourse to fire heat. I have always
found the best flavoured Mushrooms are secured
in cool or what may be termed low temperatures.
A nice growing temperature of 55° is most suit-
able, and though there is no harm in 5° either
way, the one given is a safe one, and in severe
weather 5° less would be perfectly safe. Old
beds will need assistance in the way of food and
watering if dry. When necessary to soak the
beds apply water in a tepid state, or, what is
better, use liquid manure in a warm state. After
watering, cover the surface of the beds with
short, dry litter to maintain an even tempera-
ture. Beds that have become poor may be
improved by placing mats over the surface, sup-
ported on strips of wood, laying a light covering of
warm litter on the mats for a time till new
growth is made. In underground houses in cold
weather a small quantity of fresh stable manure
placed in a heap in the house will do good.

Successional beds will need more attention, as
at this season there is more difficulty in getting
the manure in a suitable state. To prevent over-
heating it is advisable to dry in small quantities,
or in buildings where rain or frost cannot spoil
the manure, t have often used the material in a
rougher state than is usually advised should
there be any scarcity of material, as it is not wise
to allow the manure to get so dry that it does not
heat thoroughly all through the whole ma?s when
made up. Firm beds are essential to get good
succulent growths, and a fair thickness of good
maiden stiff loam thoroughly beaten tends to a
fleshy growth. Those who have neither houses nor
underground cellars may often got a good return
by making beds in any old building. Such places
must be free from drip, and in severe weather the
beds need extra covering to prevent cold checking
the growth. Good results are obtained from beds
under dry stages. In large boxes I have often
seen fine crops.

Early Tomatoes. — Now is a good time to sow
a small quantity of Tomato seed. Tomatoes may
now be grown by those with only limited means as
regards space. I prefer to sow the early lot in
very small pots, a few seeds in each, and when
above ground to thin to the strongest. Sow in
a warm house, and if a little bottom-heat is at
command, so much the better. Sow an early
kind, such as Prelude, Conference or Conqueror ;
failing bottom-heat, place on a warm sunny shelf
and from the start grow near the light. By sow-
ing seed thickly in pans or pots and pricking off
afterwards much time is lost. The seedlings be-
ing very tender are some time in getting over the
potting off. A suitable temperature for the plants
when in the rough leaf is 60° to 65° by day with
a free circulation of air as the plants strengthen,
and 10° lower by night. When repotting use
sound loam made firm, but avoid manure, which
is best given in a liquid form when the plants are
fruiting. Some advise manure to make a strong
plant, but it tends to long- jointed wood and the
fruits come only at the top of the plant instead of
a few inches from tho pot. Those who raise from
cuttings for early fruit should now give a shift if
the plants have been wintered in small pots.
Here a different mode of culture is necessary, as
the cuttings are never too strong and require some
food to create new wood. A little bone-meal mixed
with the soil is beneficial, and a close house for a
short time after repotting.

Fruiting plants. — Plants sown some months
ago have grown so vigorously during the winter,
that repotting was necessary earlier than usual.
The earliest plants now in their fruiting pots, 8
inches or 10 inches as advised, are now in condition
to be tied up to the rafters and got in position
for fruiting. Given good treatment, these plants
should fruit freely in March and give the supply
till the plants sown at this date come in. I have

8

THE GARDEN

[January 5, 1895t

secured tho b33t results by crowing in low pits,
the plants being trained to the roof, as they fruit
sooner when they got all the light possible. By
plunging tho pots in good soil over the rims the
plants get a new supply of food just as the fruits
are formed and take less water than when grown
with the roots more exposed.

Plants in fbames — Various plants are housed
in cold frames, and they often suffer more at this
season from damp than cold. Cauliflowers in
pots or planted out should not be allowed to get
attacked by mildew. Dry wood ashes is a valu-
able fertiliser and preventive of disease. Plants
at all infested should get a dressing of fine sulphur
and protection from heavy rains for a time. It is
also a good plan to firm the soil if at all loose in
the pots when going over the plants. Worms are
harmful, and should be destroyed by watering with
lime water or clear soot water. The plants at
this date should be freely exposed in fine weather
to prevent drawing. Lettuces in frames for spring
use need similar attention to prevent decay.
There should be no delay in covering with frames
Endive required for tho next month's supply, as
the blanched hearts are so soon injured by frost
after a spell of mild weather. Peas sown in pots
for planting out should be freely exposed in fine
weather and only sparingly supplied with water.

G. Wythes.

FRUIT HOUSES.

with styptic, thorough cleansing of glass, walls
and woodwork, top-dressing where lifting is not
necessar}', together with a continual circulation of
pure air, a few degrees of frost being rather bene-
ficial than otherwise, must be the programme of
the cultivator for the next two months and a
half. Where the soil is light and the rainfall under
average, wooden shutters which have been used
to cover the borders may now be removed, at
least for a time, the same being easily replaced
should a long period of rain or snow intervene.

Late Peach houses. — All preparatory work,
more especially pruning of the trees in these struc-
tures, demands immediate attention, as the sea-
son, so far very mild and open, has induced expan-
sion of bud in many varieties already, and the
application of insecticides will soon be risky. Any
blanks or faulty trees may still be made good
from the open wall or'nursery lines, as these, being
subject to no undue forcing in spring, form fresh
fibrous roots at the same ratio as the new growth.
In planting keeping the roots well up towards the
surface, adding abundance of rubble with the
staple, with firm ramming, must be strictly ob-
served, training, of course, being postponed until
all fear of settling is past. Sea Eagle will be

Early permanent vinery. — With mild, almost
frost-free weather, old Vines which have been
forced for many years have broke exceptionally
early this season, few blanks or irregularities
being visible. With lengthening days and pro-
bable glimpses of warm sunshine, night figures
which have up till now ranged from 50° to 52°
may with advantage be raised to 55°, this being
maintained even when the nights are frosty, as
the tender leafage— being in somewhat close
proximity to the roof glass— is easily injuriously
affected should the mercury fall to any appreciable
extent between midnight and daybreak. The
chief use of the syringe being to induce the eyes
to leave their sheath, no advantage, but rather
the reverse, follows its frequent use after this
stage is reached. A slight morning spray may
occasionally be administered when sun heat raises
the thermometer from V to 8°, a chink of air
being given in sheltered houses when 70° is
reached, this being withdrawn at 1 p.m., sprinkled
walls, floors and borders alone supplying the
moisture for the night. As soon as growth is an
inch long, liquid manure diluted to one-fourth
its strength may be regularly poured into the
evaporating pans, the same precaution being
necessary in regard to hot steam arising from neg-
lect in keeping the pans filled, as in the case of
pot Vines. Dry corners must receive an extra
charge from the syringe or fine-rosed watering
pot, or these spots neglected will quickly en-
courage a colony of spider or thrips, which may
prove a source of annoyance the whole forcing
season through. In the cases of Vines whose
roots were lifted in autumn, and consequently lie
near the surface, I would advise that the daily
moistening of the surface of the border be sup-
plied by the syringe rather than by the water-
ing pot, as saturation prior to the formation of
numerous fresh rootlets may result in wholesale
decay. Where a rod of Muscat of Alexandria or
Madresfield Court occupies one end of the house,
the ventilators, if not on the continuous system,
may well be left closed at that particular point,
these varieties, of course, requiring extra heat,
particularly in the early stages of growth. In the
majority of cases the crop of Lady Downe's may
now be cut and bottled, the berries after this
date keeping more satisfactorily in the fruit room
than on the Vines. As these Vines are not as a
rule started until March, and then very gradually,
root-lifting — where this is found needful, and ad-
ditional soil for incorporating can bo secured in a
dryish state — may now be carried out. This
remark, of course, applies to Vines rooting in
an inside border. Touching the pruned wood

Flowers of Chrysanthemum Viviand Morel.

found a good reliable Peach for late work and of
good flavour.

Gooseberries. — In places at all liable to the
attack of the dreaded caterpillar, lime and soot
may be freely distributed around the stems and on
the soil beneath the trees generally, to be after-
wards forked in to a depth of 1 inch. This will
have a tendency to destroy the grubs and eggs
which may be located there. Cuttings of Goose-
berries and Currants may still be inserted on any
spare piece of ground, not necessarily exposed to
the sun, although such a position is best. The
ground should be in good heart and well firmed,
the individual cuttings averaging in length from
9 inches to 1 foot. Some advocate removing all
buds, save four or five at the summit ; but this is
unsafe, as sometimes sparrows or tomtits play
havoc, leaving no buds to break into growth.
The safest way is to allow every bud to remain
intact until April ; then to remove the stem ones,
leaving four or more to form the head of the tree.
Where tho cuttings are inserted behind a north
wall and the soil is at all inclined to be wet,
mulching with dry litter or spent Mushroom
manure will protect the base from severe frost.

Apples and Pears. — Any trees intended for
grafting should now have their branches short-
ened back to the proper length in order that the
wounds may effectually callus over, and canker be
thus avoided. Stocks also of Quinces and Pears

should now be headed down. Where for various
reasons orchard planting has not yet been done
the work may yet be carried out with every pro-
spect of good results, the winter thus far having
proved so mild and free from heavy rains that the
ground still retains a good percentage of the
latent warmth of summer. Pruning also and
thinning amongst Apples generally may now be
proceeded with, avoiding a too free use of the
saw amongst young trees especially, as our un-
certain springs are best combated by a good
amount of spray, this shielding the bloom and
securing a set of fruit. The biennial system of
turning up the surface of Grass laid orchards has
much to recommend it, short rich stable manure
spread over the upturned sods further enriching
the soil, its virtue being washed down by winter
and spring rains. Of course this does not apply
to heavy soils, which are better treated to a broad-
cast sowing of some approved fertiliser in March
or April. John Crawford.

Chrysanthemums.

JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUM VIVIAND
MOREL.
Out of all the many excellent varieties
of exhibition Chrysanthemums, the palm
must, I think, be unanimously awarded
to Viviand Morel. It is what may be
taken as a genuine type of the true
Japanese Chrysanthemum, and the great
favour with which it is regarded by
growers and the frequency with which
it is shown are sufficient evidence that
its value is of no ordinary degree.
Viviand Morel is a seedling from a
rather noteworthy set. It was raised
by M. Louis Lacroix, and sent out by
him in the spring of 1890 with about a
score of other novelties. The best of
these, speaking, of course, from a purely
English standpoint, are Vice-President
Audiguier, Mile. Marie Hoste, Sylphide,
and Cleopatre, all of which have attracted
some attention here, although it has
been reserved for their companion Viviand
Morel to excite the keenest interest. At
times we hear, and perhaps not with-
out undue cause, of the exaggerated
descriptions which are appended to the
new French Chrysanthemums by their
raisers. It seems to me, however, that
those who are loudest in their con-
demnation do not make a proper allow-
ance in this matter. These new French
seedlings are grown and flowered in th3
[ open air, beneath a bright blue sky in the pura,
clear atmosphere of Southern France. The French
descriptions are consequently written from blooms
obtained under such climatic influences, and when
these plants are transferred to the neighbourhood
of London, to be grown beneath our dull,
smoky sky and flowered in a greenhouse, small
wonder is it that the flowers belie the descrip-
tions given to them by their raisers abroad.
But whatever the case may be with other
varieties, the charge does not hold good against
the raiser of Viviand Morel, for the descrip-
tion by Lacroix was as simple and as fair as
1 anyone could expect, and I give it translated
word for word, viz. : "Viviand MorelfLacr.). — True
Japanese ; blooms of the largest known, opens
spirally, long petals of a fine soft rose, sometimes
striped white ; blooms in large clusters, very
double, extra." The only part of this that seems
to be immaterial is the blooms coming in clusters,
a point of no interest to English growers, who do
not allow their buds to come in that way at all,
but to French growers who prefer quantity to
quality, a matter no doubt of considerable moment.
The catalogue being in French, is on the face
of it scarcely intended to lead English purchasers
astray.

It was not until the autumn of 1891 that Viviand
Morel was shown at the Aquarium in any numbers,
although a first-class certificate was awarded to

January 5, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

Messrs. J. Laing & Sons in the autumn of 1890 for it,
which award appears to have been repeated the fol-
lowing autumn, when the variety was staged by
Mr. Owen. The R.H.S. also granted an award
of merit to Messrs. Laing in 1890 for it, and, start-
ing well, Viviand Morel has up to the present
maintained the good opinion formed of it. It is
not necessary to refer the reader to the audits
which have been published showirg the number
of times Viviard Morel has been staged each year
since its introduction, but it may be mentioned in
passing that the first year after its introduction
fourteen blooms were exhibited at the Aquarium
show, while at the same place last November there
were one hundred and seven. And this number
does not include the classes for six blooms of one
variety in which there were two stands of Viviand
Morel, or twelve blooms more.

Whenever a good variety has made a name the
growers are always keenly on the look out for a
sport, and they had not long to wait in the case
of the flower now under consideration. Mr. Davis,
of Camberwell, was so fortunate as to secure a
beautiful yellow sport, flushed with rosy-bronze,
which he named Charles Davis, and which bids
fair to be quite as great a favourite as the parent
flower, for although it has only been in cultiva-
tion a year, it was shown eighty-nine times at the
last November show at the Aquarium in the cut
bloom classes, and twice in the class for six blooms
of one variety.

One of the most curious facts, however, in con-
nection with the sporting of Chrysanthemums
has been remarked before, and it is that a variety,
after being in cultivation for a time, will suddenly
sport in several places far distant from one another
and produce the same kind of flower. About a
year ago Mr. \V. Wells secured from Viviand
Morel a pure green sport, which he has named
Ethel Amsden, and I have since learned that my
friend M. Fatzer, in the department of the Aisne,
France, has had an identical experience. Although
I have seen both of these green varieties, the
French one seems to be the larger, and, I believe,
will be distributed under the name of M. E.
Tisserand. Whether they will prove to be the
same when grown in the orthodox exhibition style
is a question that time alone will prove.

C. Harman-Payse.

THE TECK FAMILY IN MIDWINTER.

It is now-a days quite an easy matter to have a
good supply of Chrysanthemums at Christmas and
the new year. The varieties that lend themselves
most easily to this form of culture and that are
favoured by market growers belong to the Japan-
ese and reflexed sections. At one time Princess
Teck was rather largely grown for midwinter
bloom, and then came its purer sport Lord
Eversley, which had but a brief run of popularity.
Just at that time such grand midwinter kinds as
Golden Gem and Boule de Neige came into notice,
and change of taste decreed that the high position
held by the incurved kinds generally should be
taken by the Japanese varieties. It must be ad-
mitted that the great bulk of Princess Teck blooms
brought into Covent Garden were of indifferent
quality. The plants were grown in the rough and
ready way usually practised in market gardens,
and the incurved varieties generally do not submit
to this treatment so well as tho Japanese and re-
flexed kinds.

A limited number of well-finished blooms of
Princess Teck and its varieties still, however, finds
its way into Covent Garden, and these, it is
almost needless to say, are obtained from plants
in pots. So far as I am aware, there are
no other incurved varieties that lend them-
selves so well to this form of culture. One
could scarcely desire anything better, for the
Teck family gives us white, blush, yellow, bronze,
and, including the old Hero of Stoke Newing-
ton, a shade of pink. I think that good blooms
of Mrs. Davis and Lady Dorothy, cut with long
stems and abundant healthy foliage, have a fine
appearance in Christmas and new year decora-

tions. To get them at that season some judgment
is required, for if the plants bloom too early the
flowers are past their best when most valuable, and
if retarding is carried too far the blooms will not
incurve, and one may just as well grow the reflexed
varieties. It is necessary to time them so that
the flowers are fully expanded by about December
10. If they have to finish off after that date they
do not seem to be able to close up the centre, and
generally present a rough appearance. Such at
least is my experience. Early propagation is
neither necessary nor desirable. The middle of
February or, if the cuttings are strong, the be-
ginning of March is quite soon enough. Grown
along in the ordinary manner, they will be ready
for 7-inch or 8-inch pots by the beginning of July.
About the middle of June they should be stopped
for the last time, and just at this time they need a
little watching. I have found that the Teck varie-
ties when stopped so late are apt to break badly,
especially should the weather happen to be very
hot and dry. The wood hardens, and some shoots
will frequently refuse to break again. When they
have been stopped a few days, it is well to give
a couple of waterings with liquid manure, at the
same time well syringing three times daily.
This will give them a fillip, and will cause the
young growths to push out more freely. At the
same time watering must be conducted with some
care, as topping checks root action. I have always
made a point of not housing the plants till nearly
or quite the middle of October. They may remain
out a week longer if the weather is mild, for the
longer they can be kept outside the more likely
is the foliage to remain in good condition until the
close of the year.

Owing to the late date at which the plants get
their last shift, they do not need stimulants so
much as those grown in the ordinary way, but
they will require a certain amount of feeding.
This should be continued in a greater or less de-
gree through November, after which time only
clear water should be used, as root activity is
then on the decline. Plants intended for mid-
winter bloom ought to have more room when
housed than the midseason ones. There should
be a clear space between them, or many of
the leaves will turn yellow, and it is impos-
sible to get good incurved blooms at Christmas
from plants that are in a great measure defoliated.
They must, moreover, be near the gUss and
where they will get abundance of air when the
weather is favourable. Very good blooms can be
had in G-inch pots, and this size is in many in
stances preferable, as small plants can generally
be better accommodated through the winter than
when grown in 8 inch pots. J. C. B.

Chrysanthemum Black Prince. — I find
there is already a Chrysanthemum named Black
Prince in commerce, consequently I have changed
the name of my variety from Black Prince to
Owen's Brilliant. This is the variety to which
the R.H.S. floral committee gave an award of
merit on November 27 last. — R. Owen.

Chrysanthemum Golden Wedding. — Is

not over-feeding the cause of so many failures
with this variety this season? I note "H." (p.
514) makes mention of this disaster of dying off
being almost proverbial. My neighbour, Mr.
Austin, of Witley Court, has been most success-
ful with Golden Wedding this season, there not
being any sudden dying off, which so many
growers have been troubled with. The plants at
Witley were decidedly under-fed, neither were
they over-watered, being kept well on the dry
side. — A. Y.

Chrysanthemum Bouquet de Dame. — In
England this French-raised Japanese Chrysan-
themum is rarely met with on an exhibition
stand, but in Scotland it is shown frequently,
and in such a condition that I could hardly have
thought was possible. Such blooms as I saw in
Edinburgh, Glasgow and Dundee I have never
seen equalled in England. The Scotch-grown
blooms were exceptionally deep, the florets broad
and of the purest white. — E. M.

Kitchen Garden.

THE MILD WEATHER AND VEGE-
TABLES.

The weather up to near the end of December
has been remarkably mild, while the atmosphere,
as usually happens in such cases, has been very
moist and the rainfall comparatively light. This
state of affairs has proved very favourable to
planting and such like operations, and the coal
or coke bill no one ought to grumble at, but,
all the same, there is another side of the picture
to be taken note of. As far as green winter
vegetables are concerned, these have never been
more plentiful nor, I think, better in quality,
but so full of sap and vigour are most of them,
that it only requires a moderately severe frost
to cause an utter collapse. At the time these
notes are being penned, so little like a change
to severe frosts and cold weather generally pre-
sents itself, that it would appear useless to sug-
gest preparing for wintry weather, yet there
ought to be something done with Broccoli,
Borecoles, Savoys, and L'olewoits in the way of
massing some of them together with a view to
being able to quickly cover with mats or other
protecting material. Should we not experience
any very severe frosts, there will have been no
labour wasted, as the very fact of lifting and
laying in a quantity of the kind of vegetables
named would serve to check their growth and bo
the means of providing a longer succession than
would be the case if left alone and mild weather
sti'l continue ; while if severe frosts do visit us,
then there is a likelihood of the protects d vege-
tab'es being the sole survivors. It is not grow-
ing vegetables only that are behaving different
from what we wish them to do during the present
winter, but some of those stored are being
injuriously affected by the mildness of the
weather. Onions were none too well matured
last autumn when ttored, and would probably
have largely commenced growing afresh earlier
than desirable in any case. As it happens,
the mild weather has started them wholesale,
especially where the precaution of roping or
1 mnehing them up and suspending in cool, airy
quarters was not taken. In some instances
storing in heaps in comparatively warm dark
corners has already spoilt all that are left, a
mass of shoots, roots, and decay taking the
place of what should have been good sound
bulbs for some time to come. Now, running
short of Onions is a serious matter in most
cases, and something ought to be done in the
way of finding a .substitute for sound Onions.
Instead of throwing these apparently worthless
Onions away, they ought all to be planted out
on a bo- der or quite in the open thickly in
rowsl footapa-t. If they are only just start-
ing, then keep them where they are and as cool
as possible a month or six weeks longer, but if
far advanced in growth, plant out all the more
forward at once. A very severe frost would
perhaps damage the young leaves, but they will
stand more frost than will the dry roots, and
should therefore be risked. The flower-heads
should be pinched out directly they show, and
eventually small roots thus treated will grow
into larger ones, while the larger ones will
divide into several, after the manner of Shallots,
in each instance. Seeing that these Onions are
wai.ted for early use, there would be no sense
in leaving them to attain a fairly large size.
Instead of this pull some as they are wanted for
use, remove the outer or old skins, shorten the
tops, divide those needing it, and there is then
a serviceable bunch of young Onions, or Seal-
lions, as sometimes termed, ready for use.

10

THE GARDEN.

[January 5, 1895

Where Onions are likely to be scarce, save as
many Leeks and Shallots as possible, as these
keep till i|iiite late in the season, and are ex-
cellent for flavouring soups and such like.

Turnips are very plentiful and good in quality,
but those stored are sprouting strongly, and the
older roots left in the ground are beginning to
run to seed. Both sprouting and forming
greens or flower-growths have a most prejudicial
effect upon the roots, rendering them of little
value other than for flavouring. Both ought to
be prevented as much as possible. A few
minutes spent occasionally in turning a heap of
roots and rubbing off the sprouts, if done in
good time, would save them for several weeks
longer, while if the roots in the ground are
wanted for cooking, these, or a portion of them,
should be pulled, topped, tailed and stored
in a cool place or in a heap and strawed and
soiled over. Late sowings have continued to
make root-growth, and as yet there are no signs
of these running prematurely to seed. All the
same, I would advise storing a portion of them.
Not till the supply is really exhausted do the
more experienced gardeners realise what trouble
they are likely to have with the cooks, Turnips
being well-nigh regarded as indispensable.
Much may be done towards forwarding a supply
in frames on very mild hotbeds, but it is far
less trouble to take good care of the old roots.

Should the present mild weather much loDger
continue, Celery will keep badly in many in-
stances. Already I have seen several " sticks "
showing, when cut open, that they are runmng
to seed, and it will not be so very long before
the hearts are practically worthless, always pro-
vided nothing is done to check this untoward
occurrence. Sharp frosts or a spell of cold
weather would do much towards checking bolt-
ing, though I do not advise waiting very long
for this to come. It is not always the earliest
sown that are the first to bolt, and it would be
well, therefore, to test the plants in the various
rows. Any fit for use and showing signs of running
to seed should be first dug and good care taken
of that still right at the heart. Lifting, tying
strips of raffia round the stalks and replanting
somewhat thickly and deeply in a fresh and,
may be, cooler place are frequently practised
later in the season ; but the question is, would
it not be better in many instances to take this
precaution now, and thereby check heart growth ?
If laid in more closely, quite as much covered
with soil as before, and, in addition, roughly
covered with mats or dry strawy litter whenever
severe frosts are imminent, might be the means
of saving a good supply from the destructive
effects of frosts as well as retarding bolting.

Parsley is even more indispensable than either
Turnips or Celery, and this season it has been
hardened off so little, that the chances are frosts
would destroy it wholesale. Nothing transplants
more readily, and if a few deep boxes or pots
were closely filled with strong plants, taking
particular care of the principal root or under-
ground stem, these could be placed in either
pits, frames or houses and kept in reserve.
Even if the outside supply does not fail, there
is yet a likelihood of the early growth formed
on the roots under cover proving very accept-
able in April or May. Parsley can be forced as
readily as Carrots, the seed being sown in frames
on hotbeds in much the same manner ; but once
more let me advise my readers to preserve the
old plants. Ski.wood.

Notes on Onions. — Notwithstanding all that
has been written in The Garden as to the keep-
ing of Onions, I find that when bunched and hung
up under the roof of cold airy sliccls they keep

best. This is the way I have kept mine for many
years, and that with the best results. In proof of
this I have in my fruit room a good sized bulb that
was ripened in September of 1893 ; consequently
it has been out of the ground sixteen months, and
now it has sprouted 2 inches long. This bulb
was strung with others in ropes and hung close to
the roof of our potting shed all through last winter,
and only removed after Midsummer Day into the
fruit room. By keeping in this way 1 generally
have good sound bulbs till the end of June. Mr.
Temple, when at Impney Hall, used to keep his
Onions in this way. Undoubtedly many of the
old kinds are far better keepers than some of the
new kinds. — J. Crook.

Hardiness of Onions. — Like "J. R.'s" (p.
479), my mode of storing Onions is the re-
verse of " W. G. C.'s," as given at pages 40.S and
4(19. I have never stored mine in a close room or
building of any kind, and in my opinion the more
airy, cool and exposed the place that can be given
the better. The bulk of my Onions, some forty
or fifty bushels, are tied in bunches and hung to
the rafters of a dry, airy shed, the bunches not
touching each other, but fairly close, and they
keep grandly. I have tried the plan advocated
by " W. G. C." and failed. I think the more the
bulbs are exposed in a dry place, free of straw or
other covering, the better. I do not like the plan
of laying Onions on the floor or even on racks,
except when drying after lifting. I have found
them decay and grow out badly. — S. G. J.

SEAKALE CULTURE.

It is a significant fact that while the majority
of vegetables suffered more or less from the
great heat and absence of moisture in 1893,
Seakale seemed to be suited to a degree.
Growth, whether in permanent beds or in those
planted with root thongs in the spring, was
both early and vigorous, resulting in well-formed
and prominent crowns, from which the foliage
parted in October in a perfectly yellow and
ripe condition. These roots, when lifted and
placed in heat, responded readily, producing
good supplies of stout Kale in a miuimuin of
time. Last season, however, though the cut-
tings were much stronger than usual and well
sprouted at the foot of a south wall previous to
planting, growth was not nearly so satisfac-
tory, proof that, however good the general
cultural treatment may be, sun, and plenty of
it, is indispensable to secure the best results.
Seakale is an important winter dish in all first-
class establishments, yet how often do we
find it growing in about the worst possible
positions, perhaps associated with Rhubarb
and Jerusalem Artichokes in some out-of-
the - way corner, shaded by high walls or
trees, and in wet, heavily manured soil.
Under these conditions a by no means good,
though prolonged, growth ensues, the leaves
often continuing in agreen state wellinto Novem-
ber, finally being smitten by frost and rotting in-
stead of ripening. That Seakale does not require
such rich ground as is generally supposed is
proved by old permanent beds which have been
forced for ten or twelve years by the old-
fashioned method of pots and leaves. These
from the time they were planted have received
no stimulant, save perhaps a little ordinary
manure which has been pricked into the sur-
face in spring, yet their vigour and productive-
ness are maintained. For the accommodation
of first early batches a south border is to be
preferred, although where ground is scarce such
a site cannot always be spared. If the ground
is in pretty good heart the Seakale may follow
some other ordinary crop without any further
preparation save digging and making firm. As
each batch of crowns is lifted for forcing, all
the stout rootlets should be cut into lengths of

some 4 inches of 5 inches, and the top from
which growth is expected made quite smooth
with a sharp knife. They should then be
dibbled into boxes or frames of light sandy
soil, and the cut portion covered with silver or
river sand to induce a speedy callus. Failing
these receptacles, the foot of a south wall will
answer well, light leafy soil being used for im-
bedding. If the early part of the year is very
mild the cuttings must be watched, as some-
times the new succulent growths will push
through the soil and fall a prey to frost.
A little covering of soil will avert this. "When
making the cuttings is postponed till planting
time a whole month is lost, and crowns suitable
for early forcing cannot be expected. As a rule
the first week in April is a good time for plant-
ing, at which time the tender growths should be
reduced to four or five on each cutting. A space
of 2J feet between the rows and 18 inches
between each plant is not too much, each cutting
being lowered, just beneath the ground level
and slightly mounded over with soil to shield
from frost. When 6 inches of growth have been
made, the leads must be further reduced to two
or at the most three to each stool, these being
as many as can be properly exposed to sun,
light, and air. Where the earliest batch occupies
a south sunny border, should the summer
prove hot and dry, a slight mulch of spent
Mushroom manure may be given, and one or
two waterings with liquid manure. Towards
the end of October it is a good plan to force a
spade down on either side of the stools to sever
some of the strongest roots, and thus hasten
ripening and rest. In regard to flavour in
Seakale, I am of opinion that none equals that
grown under pots and leaves, the moist vege-
table ammonia given out by them seeming to im-
part a special sweetness. When forced indoors
the roots should not be placed too near very hot
pipes or in dry corners, as under such condi-
tions growth is invariably not only spindly but
watery and insipid. Several growers for market
in the neighbourhood of Bristol allow plenty of
room between the rows and stools and lift every
other row to force. In spring the crowns in the
remaining rows are covered with flower-pots,
the latter being finally banked up with the soil
from the intervening spaces. Thus a late supply
of good white Kale is secured. When cinder
ashes or leaf soil is used for mounding up in
spring, the crowns are very apt to push through
the compost, becoming not only green and in-
sipid, but unsightly when placed on the table.

J. Crawford.

COLOUR IN BEETROOT.

The roots of Beetroot with a dull crimson or
nearly black colour are, I think, inferior in
quality to the lighter coloured roots. I am
aware colour does not always denote high
quality, as some of the Egyptian or Turnip-
rooted Beets are of a pale colour, but neverthe-
less of good quality when quickly grown. I
recently asked a large grower as to the demand
for light-coloured roots, his answer being that
the few who understood good quality in vege-
tables always selected small or medium-sized
roots in preference to large ones, and that he
always was careful to supply those with bright
red flesh, as these were less earthy in taste and
always realised a good price. The flavour of
Beetroot this season is different from that of
last year. This is readily accounted for, as the
soil being much warmer in 1893 growth was
more rapid ; whereas last year it has been
slow and there has been much moisture. It
may be said that early sowing has much to do
with flavour. This I admit, and I do not prac-

January 5, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

11

tise it for late roots, sowing the Turnip-rooted
kinds for summer use. I am also aware soils
full of manure do not add to flavour. Last
season I secured three crops of Turnip-rooted
kinds, sowing in March, June, and early in
August, and the last roots were equally as
good as the flrst and grew very quickly.
This season later sowings failed completely.
It may be said, why sow Turnip - rooted
kinds late when good roots of the long sec-
tion may be secured with far less trouble ?
1 he answer is that there is a great demand for
the Turnip-rooted forms when about the size of
a cricket ball, or even smaller, for salad, and I
believe a much better flavour is secured from
quickly grown roots. I grow the Turnip-rooted
Beet on account of its quick growth and good
quality. Cooking is also important. Among the
larger red or light crimson kinds of good quality
are Covent Garden Red and Cheltenham Green
Top, one of the best flavoured sorts I have
grown if sown late and in poor soil. Osborn's
Select Red, Nutting's Red, a medium-sized root
of splendid quality, and Pragneli's Exhibition
are also good. There are others worth a place,
but from a selection of some twenty varieties
I have found those named above best as re-
gards quality. W. S. M.

SHORT NOTES.— KITCHEN.

Potato "Windsor Castle.— I have found this
one of tbe very best varieties. Tboae who value
quality in Potatoes would do well to give it a trial.
Not only is tbeie an absence of small tubers, bat a
great weight is secured from a limited space if tbe
plants are notcrowded. It may be described us a dwarf
Magnum Bonum, and, like that well-known variety, is
not liable to be attacked by disease. In thin or gravelly
soils it may be planted closer than tbe Magnum and
will yield a fair cri p, but, given good land, crowding
should be avoided. — G. W.

Walcheren Cauliflower or Broccoli.
Many years ago this variety was largely grown in tin
north, and if sown in April, May, June and July, good
heads will be secured from June to December. I find
this as hardy as tbe early Broccoli. For many years
I have sown it in August from the 10th to the 20th
for spring cutting. I do not know of any variety more
reliable for standing tbe winter, a>ul though it maybe
a few days later than some of the smaller growing
Cauliflowers, it is more valuable on account of its har-
diness and freedom from running or oper ing in warm
weather— S. H. B.

Orchids.

PLATYCLINIS.
This small genus of epiphytal Orchids was for-
merly known in our gardens as Dendrochilum,
and even at the present day this name is
very frequently used. There are upwards of a
dozen species known, these being distributed
over India and the Malay Archipelago. Very
few, however, are sufficiently beautiful to find
favour with the majority of Orchid growers.
Those generally cultivated are the species men-
tioned below, and all are found in the Philip-
pine Islands. They flower at different seasons
of the year, are very interesting when in
bloom, and as they occupy but little space, they
should find a place in every collection. These
plants being natives of a very hot climate
naturally require strong heat to grow them
successfully under cultivation, and should
be placed in the East India house or at the
warmest end of the Cattleya house. Whilst
making their growth they enjoy a liberal supply
of water at the roots. During the resting sea-
son the plants should be kept dry, only enough
water being given to keep the soil moist.
The most suitable' time to repot Platyclinis is

shortly after the flowers are past, and the com-
post should consist of chopped fibrous peat and
Sphagnum Moss, the pots being quite half filled
with good drainage.

P. Cobbian'A — This interesting species, intro-
duced by Messrs. Low & Co., of Clapton, about 1880,
usually blooms during the autumn months. It
produces elongated, conical-shaped bulbs, each
about 2 inches high, with lanceolate leaves three
times as long. The flowers, light sulphur-yellow,
with an orange lip, are borne densely upon a
drooping raceme about 1 foot in length. These
are somewhat similar to those of P. glumacea, but
the plant is quite distinct in the formation of the
bulbs, and, moreover, bloom? at quite a different
season. It first flowered in the collection of Mr.
Walter Cobb. At the present time this species
will jus-t be commencing to start into growth.

P. filiformis, a much better known species
than the preceding, was first seen in flower in
this country over fifty years ago, having been
discovered by Cummings two or three years pre-
viously and sent to the Messrs. Loddiges, of
Hackney. This kind grows to about 6 inches in
height, and produces a filiform pendulous raceme
of about 15 inches in length during the months
of June, July and August. These racemes often
bear fifty to sixty individual blooms, sometimes
more, these being of a greenish canary-yellow
and very small. The drooping spikes, which are
freely produced, make it a very attractive plant.
During the winter months this species should be
quite at rest.

I'. OLUMACBA. — This species will now be in
active growth, and should be given plenty of
water, as it will produce its elegant racemes
during the spring months. The flowers, whitish
yellow, are borne upon the apical half of the
spike only, and have a pleasing fragrance. The
pseudo - bulbs are ovoid and sheathed with
brownish scales; the leaves attain 12 inches or
more in length. This is one of the most desirable
kinds, and a great favourite with Orchid lovers.
It was introduced just forty-five years ago.

P. UNCATA. — A spike of this pretty kind is to
hand from "T. W. O.'' for a name. The present
season is its usual flowering time, and the spike
received measures 9 inches in length : the blooms
are large for this genus and of a greenish white,
somewhat resembling those of P. filiformis. It is
a very desirable plant, imported for the first time
by Messrs. Low, of Clapton.

Wm. Hugh Cower.

Twin-flowered Cypripediums. — Twin -flow-
ered Cypripediums appear to be unusually preva-
lent this season. On two of my largest specimens
of Cypripedium insigne the flowers are showing in
a similar way to that described by Mr. Wood.
On looking at a plant of C. barbatum, I also
observe a twin flower-spike. C. bellatulum a few
weeks back was also the same, but the greatest
number are showing on C. Spicerianum. Four of
the largest plants of C. Spicerianum have every
spike twin flowered. It appears strange that only
a few plants of this variety should show this ten-
dency. This makes me think it is more a seminal
variety than due to vigorous growth. I tike
this view because the largest and most vigorous
plant is only single- flowered. — A. Youno.

Cypripedium insigne of the Sacderse

section.— Since the introduction of this most dis-
tinct and valuable variety by Mr. Sander, of St.
Albans, many plants which have laid claim to
rivalling C. insigne Sanders- have flowered, but
none, with the exception of C. insigne Ernesti-
anum, have equalled it in colour. The flowers
of C. i. Ernestiauum differ in shape from those Of C.
i. Sandene, being more like those of a good C. i.
Chantioi and of a clear apple-green, with a
white margin to the dorsal sepal, which bears
faint traces of spots where these are usually
seen in the typical form. It is a very beautiful
and distinct variety and makes a tine companion
to Mr. Sander's form. These and others of this
section have appeared from the montanutn type,
of which there have been enormous quantities

imported during recent years, and amongst them
the following kinds have from time to tims
turned up, but although very fine and distinct,
are, nevertheless, quite different from the two
above-mentioned plants : C. i. Macfarlanianum,
a variety with somewhat narrow segments ; C. i.
Sanderianum, a very clear flower, the spotting
almost entirely absent ; C. i. Youngianum, a very
pretty kind and very similar to one recently named
C. i. Lutwychianum; and C. i. Eyermannianum,
a variety of American oi igin and very distinct.
These of themselves form a very pretty and in-
teresting group. — W. H. G.

Flowers from Pitlochry, Scotland.— From
Mr. W. Macdonald, Atholl, Pitlochry, comes a
box of flowers, amongst which is a very curious
malformed bloom of Cattleya labiata having seven
segments, but with no proper lip, the two lateral
sepals being the only parts of true character. The
dorsal sepal and other four parts are all of the
same shape and markings as are usually seen in the
lip of an ordinary form — rich crimson, heavily
suffusedwith orange at the base, and nicely fringed
at the margin. Although very curious it is less
beautiful than an ordinary bloom. The Cypripe-
dium of the insigne cross was far too much
damaged to say what it might be, but the dorsal
sepals appear to have some fine purple spots. It
may probably have been the result of hybridising
a good form of C insigne with C. villosum or
C. venustum. A fine flower of C. Boxalli with
richly coloured petals was also included. — W.

Stove and Greenhouse.

PELARGONIUMS DURING WINTER.

To be successful with these plants at their flower-
ing time, they must not be neglected in the sun-
less period of the year, and important items of
culture should receive proper attention now. In
the case of the large-flowered or show and
regal kinds, for example, we are apt to keep
them too warm, and the growth becomes spindly,
and perhaps attacked with aphides. Should
the latter occur, lose no time in cleansing the
plants by fumigating.

The temperature for all Pelargoniums should
not go much above 50°. We want them to be
steadily growing, that is all, and the pipes just
warm enough to dispel damp. Of course this
does not refer to plants of the zonal class which
may have been specially prepared for winter
blooming. Those of the show and regal type
may be shifted into the flowering pots, and the
principal things to consider are the sizes of the
pots and the manner of doing the work. One
thing noticeable about the plants we see in the
markets is the small pots employed ; and as I
am not far wrong in saying that Pelargoniums
are not generally well done in private gardens,
the use of large pots in such places is a common
error. Specimen plants may be grown in an 8-
inch pot ; a size or two less, therefore, is amply
sufficient for ordinary use.

One need not be particular as to soil. I use
with excellent results the old compost that has
done duty in growing the Chrysanthemums. It
this is saved when the plants are turned out and
kept in a dry place, it provides a soil good
enough for Pelargoniums, and where there is
some" trouble as well as expense in obtaining a
supply of tuif is economical. The old compost
is merely sifted and a sprinkling of bone-dust
added, then it is ready for use. Pot finnly.
This is one of the secrets of successful cultiva-
tion. Ram the soil into the pots with a heavy
stick, and the growth resulting from such treat-
ment will be sturdy and short-jointed. A hand-
ful of half-inch bones at the bottom of each pot
over the crocks is most beneficial. All classes of
Pelargoniums are assisted by these ; the roots

12

THE GARDEN

[January 5, 1895.

ramble among thorn and a healthy tone to tho
foliage is apparent when bones are employed.
After the potting is done, give the plants a good
soaking of water. This will last some time, for
the aim must lie to keep the roots on the dry
side. Sec, however, that this does not reach
tho flagging point, for valuable plants are thereby
often lost. They get too dry, and we at once
give them a soaking. The roots may be
already partly killed by being parched, as it
were, and the water but adds to the damage
done in at once soddening the earth. In this
cafe it is always best to first damp the foliage
as well as the surface of the soil slightly for a
few days, and brighten the plant up before water
at the roots is given.

Air in abundance should be given in favour-
able weather, and only just enough tire-heat to
command the temperature mentioned. Unless
the plants have become drawn up weakly, no
stopping is required. Handsome bushes are
best obtained if they are kept sturdy and
allowed to break side shoots naturally. These
should be tied out when young, so that room
is made for others that will follow and
space for their development given. If there
be a superabundance of side growths, a little
thinning out may be done. These young
shoots, if put singly into small pots and placed
on a shelf near the glass of a warm greenhouse,
strike readily, and provide young stock in
the event of the older plants losing health or
being worn out by age.

Zonal Pelargoniums require similar treatment
to that noted in the matter of water, and the
leaves must be kept free from moisture at this
time of the year. Where old plants which
flowered in early autumn are past and have
become leggy, a little trimming up should be
done. If the shoots are cut back half their
length there is little danger of decay, but when
cut back quite close at this time of the year,
we run a risk of killing the plants entirely.
The tops may be used for providing young
plants, and these should have the benefit of a
warmer house than the parent plants are grow-
ing in. When rooted give the young plants a
shift into 5-inch pots, and thus nice, fresh-
looking specimens of a useful size for furnish-
ing rooms and so on are obtained early in the
season. The older plants need some attention
at the roots as soon as fresh growth takes place.
They may be turned out of their pots, a good
portion of the old soil taken away, and returned
to others very little larger than they before
occupied. The fresh compost will give new
vigour, as it has already been pointed out what a
mistake the use of large pots is. There is a'so
another class of the Pelargonium, namely, the
Ivy-leaf section, in which the use of small pots
is particularly necessary to successful flowering.
These are of a very rampant nature, and the
only means of getting a good quantity of flower
trusses is by restricting the root-run. Varieties
of this class, again, require timely topping, and
they ought not to be allowed to form many
joints at this time of the year before the tip of
each shoot is taken out.

All Pelargonium plants should have ample
room and be stood near the glass to benefit bv
light and air. They respond to feeding with
stimulants when the flower buds show, in bearing
fine trusses of bloom. Manures containing am-
monia, such as soot and guano, are especially
suitable. As the days lengthen, water in abund-
ance will be needed, and keeping the plants on
what is called the dry side no longer applicable.
There is the opposite danger in not giving
enough when the plants are growing in the
small pots insisted upon. H. S. L.

RICHARDIA ALBO-MACULATA.
I do not quite agree with " W. W.'s " state-
ment that this is only of botanical interest. I have
grown it for some years, and find that, from a
decorative point of view, it has considerable
value. The flowers, it is true, are, as compared
with those of R. a'thiopica, insignificant ; but a
good-sized specimen with well-developed foliage
is decidedly effective, and, being comparatively
hard}', can be used where Caladiums and other
tender variegated-leaved things are inadmissible.
Unlike the Nile Lily, it goes to rest in the winter,
and this is probably the main cause of its not being
very much grown. For summer decoration in the
open air it is, however, held in some esteem, being
very much more weather-proof than many of the
fine-leaved things commonly used. The tubers
are very tenacious of life ; they can be taken up
in autumn, stored away dry and not one in a hun-
dred will die. If left in the ground only a very
hard winter will injure them. I have had
them come through 20° of frost unharmed,
and a cold, damp winter does not seem to
appreciably affect them. I have no doubt that
a moderate covering of some light material would
ensure their safety in all but very heavy soils in
low-lying situations. In such a high degree are
the tubers possessed of enduring power, that I have
kept some nearly two years out of the soil, and
then they sprouted. I once had about a bushel
of imported roots, and what they went through
before they came into my hands would have killed
most tuberous or bulbous-rooted things outright.
This ability to retain vitality through a long rest-
ing period may be taken advantage of in a certain
way. By keeping the tubers quite dry until
August and then potting them the season of
growth is reversed. They come into full leaf by
the close of the autumn, and remain in good order
all through the winter if given a temperature of
about 50°. They can then be employed for any of
the purposes for which such things are in request,
and will remain in good form in a heated apart-
ment all through the winter months.

J. C. B.

Roman Hyacinths. — The past season may
not, we can reasonably assume, have been the
best possible for the essential (or supposed)
ripening of bulbous plants. Note the words
in brackets, for 1 think it is possible that too
much reliance is placed upon thorough ripen-
ing. Be this as it may, the one thing very evident
in my case is the very satisfactory way in which
Roman Hyacinths are flowering this year. I
force them for cutting by the thousand for a
private supply, and never remember to have had
them so good in any previous season, the succession
spikes being much finer than usual and in greater
quantities also. — Grower.

Rog-iera gratissima.— Dwellers in the imme-
diate neighbourhood of London can seldom enjoy
the beauty of this Mexican shrub, as it is so
susceptible to the fogs experienced during the
winter months, that a few hours' exposure thereto
will suffice to scorch all the leaves as if they had
been burnt. It is certainly very beautiful when
in a thriving condition, the dark green leaves be-
ing lit up by clusters of flowers somewhat in the
way of the Laurustinus, but of a pleasing shade
of soft pink. Like the Luculia, this will, as a
rule, succeed better when planted out than in
pot", and it needs a free circulation of air when-
ever possible. When in a thriving state not only
do the individual flowers remain fresh for a good
while, but a succession of bloom is also kept up
for some time. This plant is now included in the
genus Rondeletia, but it is far better known under
the generic name of Rogiera. — T.

Canarina Campanula. — This is a decidedly
interesting and at the same time pretty flowering
plant, that produces its blossoms towards the end
of the year. It is said to have been introduced
into this country from the Canary Islands in 1696,
but it is now very seldom seen, and may in vain
be sought for in most nurseries. This Canarina
forms a fleshy root-stock, from whence spring

stout succulent shoots that reach a height of a
yard or two. These shoots branch out towards
the upper part, and are there plentifully clothed
with foliage. The flowers, which are there freely
borne, are bell-shaped, drooping, and about the
size of those of the garden varieties of Abutilon,
to which they bear a considerable resemblance.
In colour they are generally a sort of yellowish
red, with deeper veins. This Canarina behaves
in a very different manner from most of the occu-
pants of our greenhouses, as it continues fresh
and green for some time after flowering; then just
as the majority of plants are in full growth this
goes to rest, and continues in that state till early
autumn, when it pushes up the stout shoots and
grows quickly. During the season of rest it should
be kept fairly dry, then, just as it is on the point
of starting, it should be to a great extent shaken
clear of the old soil and repotted. A rather light
compost suits it best, and thorough drainage must
be ensured. This last remark especially applies
if it is planted out in the greenhouse, under which
conditions it does well. — H. P.

Rubus roEsefolius plenus. — Some fifteen or
sixteen years ago a considerable amount of atten-
tion was directed towards this Bramble as a very
desirable subject for flowering in a warm green-
house during the dull days of winter ; indeed, it
was then so much in demand that considerable num-
bers of it were to be seen in many nurseries. Now,
however, it is rarely met with, though it is cer-
tainly very pretty and deserves more recognition
than is accorded it now-a-days. It is not one of
the rambling growing species of Bramble, but
forms an erect bushy plant, that pushes up
suckers freely, and soon forms a dense mass. The
stems are thickly studded with hooked spines,
while the Rose-like leaves are of a pale green tint
and thin in texture. The flowers, which are borne
in loose corymbs, are pure white and double. A
few good healthy plants will keep up a show of
bloom for some time, and that, too, when flowers
are scarce. Another name for it is Rubus rosa?-
folius coronarius. It is easily grown. Cuttings
strike root readily during the spring months if
treated as other soft-wooded subjects. — H. P.

Libonia penrbosiensis is certainly one of the
best winter-blooming plants we have, and when
well grown is very effective at this season. It
requires good culture however, and, like its con-
gener floribunda, has a miserable appearance if
in any way neglected during the growing season.
In order to get well-budded specimens it is neces-
sary to give the plants a long season of growth.
Cuttings struck early in March will grow into
good plants by the autumn if given high culture,
but I have noted that the best results are obtained
when one can start in the spring with young plants
that have never had artificial warmth. Libonias
may be easily propagated from cuttings put in
during early summer when the wood is succulent,
and these will come into small pots in which they
are to remain till spring. If these are shifted
into 4J-inch pots about the middle of March and
then put into 6-inch ones later on they will make
fine little specimens by autumn. Libonias require
a considerable amount of sun and air, and when
in full growth plenty of water. — J. C. B.

Ipomseas. — As a winter-flowering climber fo
the stove Ipoma?a Horsfalli;e is a distinctly orna-
mental species with very showy flowers produced
in large trusses, which continue for a long time
to produce the blooms, only two or three being
expanded at once. The colour is particularly rich,
quite different from anything in its season, a deep
satiny rose. Although its flowers, like those of
all of the Convolvulacea?, are very fugitive, yet
the succession in which they are produced makes
full amends for this. A good mode of training it
is up columns or rafters. It needs a fairly large
pot to accommodate its large fleshy roots, but
does not then require frequent shifts. It will
thrive well in an ordinary stove temperature,
whereas lpoma?a Leari, which has deep brilliant
blue flowers, requires a moister atmosphere, other-
wise it is very liable to red spider. This latter
variety is much more rapid in growth, flowering

January 5, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

13

earlier, also being usually at its best during Au-
gust and September. Preferably I would grow
I. Leari in an aquatic house, upon the roof of
which it would simply revel. Ipouwea Quamoclit
is an annual stove species which, I should gather,
is extremely handsome in its native habitat, from
which I have had seeds of it sent as well as from
India. It is of very light and elegant growth, but
under cultivation does not, unless very favourably
circumstanced, flower so freely as one could wish.
From imported seeds I have had dark red, yellow
and white varieties. It only needs small pots, a
good means of support being small sprays of
Birch. Ipomaea rubro-derulea does not appear
to be grown so much as it deserves, owing pro-
bably to its blooming during the summer, when
the flowers would not last many hours in perfec-
tion. For it there cannot be a ereat call, if trade
plant catalogues are to be taken as any criterion,
for in two well-known ones it is not included. —
Grower.

Echeveria retusa. — It is somewhat a matter
for surprise that this very easily grown and free-
flowering winter plant is not met with in larger
quantities in private gardens, where it would be
very useful. The market growers are waking up
to its merits, and some of them grow it largely.
It will flower about now without any difficulty in
a light dry greenhouse, a shelf near the glass be-
ing a good position for it. Its propagation is of
the easiest, the young plants being kept in the
full sunshine out of doors all the summer. Only
a 6-inch pot is required to produce a good useful
plant. — Grower.

DAFFODILS FOR FORCING AND POT

CULTURE.

No time should now be lost in introducing these
as required into warmth for forcing. Properly
planted in due time in September and October
and given sound healthy bulbs, they will now
be well rooted and ready to flower when under
glass. Those put in to form the first early batches
are coming away nicely, but in these, as in all else
that is forced exceptionally early, size of flower
and often colour, too, are wanting. Length of
stem is invariably wanting, no matter what the
quality of the bulbs or the treatment accorded,
so that it is no gain in private gardens generally
for the sake of a few days in their flowering to
destroy, or at least diminish, the length of flower-
ing stem in these exceedingly useful and much-
admired flowers of spring. Planted early and
deeply covered with ashes or cocoa-nut fibre and
given a long season in the open to form roots and
commence their growth, success is in the main
ensured— indeed, the flower-buds will be almost
in sight as soon as the bulbs are taken from the
plunging material, while the growth will be from
2 inches to 3 inches high and the bulbs a mass
of roots. Where required only for producing
blooms, pots 7 inches or 8 inches across are very
U3eful for the purpose. When first removed from
the plunging bed it will be best if the entire batch
be transferred to a frame or pit from which frost
is excluded at all times. The bulbs will also
benefit if darkened with mats for a day or two
and given a sufficient watering to carryall dirt
fragments to the soil. If, of necessity, they must
be taken to the greenhouse at once, take care the
house during the first week is kept at about
45°, and if the weather is mild freely ventilated.
Under these conditions all will be well. The dull
weather and the humidity of the past few days are
just suited to these plants at this time. Heat may
be turned on slightly in about five or six days,
limiting the maximum temperature to 55° by fire-
heat. When growth has well begun take care the
bulbs receive no check from insufficient water at
the root, giving weak liquid manure every week
till the flowers begin to colour. Syringe daily or
twice daily if bright and generally maintain a
moist atmosphere. The varieties best suited for
earliest work are the Tenby Daffodil (N. obval-
laris) and the common double yellow Daffodil (N.
Telamoniuspl. ). Quickly following thesecomeprin-

ceps, pallidus pra>cox, Golden Spur and Horsfieldi.
Poeticus ornatus, however, must be named as in-
dispensable, though at the same time somewhat
fastidious when forced. This variety, more than
all else, will not endure hard forcing, but by a
gradual preparation and introduced by degrees
into the temperatures named, this valuable variety
may be brought well through the ordeal. Always
place tbe pots, pans or boxes on a cool bottom.
E. J.

Bamboos as conservatory plants. — As

tearing out the views of " A. H." (p. 454) with l-pgard
to tin- value of Bamboos in the conservatory, 1 may
mention that at Witley Court, in the large winter
garden there, are several Bamboos growing in pots.
On each side of tbe main entrance there are two very
handsome specimens of Arundiuaria faleata, each
about 11 feet high. — A. Y.

Jasminum grandiflorum. — During the
autumn, when the trade sales are being held, this
variety of Jasmine is frequently met with as a
dwarf plant, with an occasional truss or two of
unexpanded blossoms. These are frequently
propagated by grafting, which, I have an opinion,
tends to make the growth more dwarf than it
would otherwise be if cuttings or layers are the
modes of propagation. Cuttings do not always
strike freely, hence grafting comes in useful ; but
layers can be relied upon in course of time to make
very useful plants. It is vigour that is wanted in
this Jasmine, for it is as a climber that its useful-
ness is most manifest. Even then it is not one of
the most rapid growers, but its progress, if a little
slow, is just as sure. My mode of treatment has
been to plant it out in good soil, peat and loam
in about equal proportions being used. The
plant in question was trained near the glass, so
that the shoots had all the benefit of the light, no
shading being in use where it was. Thus treated
it grew quite strongly, making lateral shoots, thus
adding to its free flowering— this being one of the
terminal flowering species rather than a lateral
one, as in J. nudiflorum. Flowering as it does
during the late autumn and winter, it is extremely
useful for cutting, making up well in either sprays
or button-holes. Its fragrance is delicious, but
not overpowering. It resembles most nearly J.
officinale, but is quite distinct from that species.
To grow it thoroughly well it should be planted
out in a cool stove or temperate house ; an
ordinary greenhouse is scarcely warm enough for
it to make a free growth. Pruning is rarely
needed. — H. G.

Jasminum gracillimum is a worthy com-
panion to J. grandiflorum and totally distinct
from it, having hirsute foliage, as compared with
the lustrous shining dark green of the other spe-
cies. The species in question is a great advance
upon J. Sambac, having flowers somewhat similar,
but it is much more free in producing them. It
should be grown in a warm or temperate house
in order to encourage a free growth. I have kept
it in a house that often falls to 40° during
frost, but it did not thrive well. The best posi-
tion for it, I find, is when trained as a rafter plant.
In this way it is seen to the best possible advan-
tage when in flower during the winter months.
Its greatest enemy is the white scale, which seems
extremely partial to it. What pruning is needful
should be done after flowering. — H. G.

THE WINTER-FLOWERING JASMINE.

(JASMINUM NUDIFLORUM.)

No variety of this beautiful race of plants is more
in request perhaps than the species in question.
It is a most popular plant, and that most de-
servedly so, being seen at its best on a warm wall
with a southern or western aspect. In such a position
it will flower earlier and oftentimes yield a wealth
of blossom before the frosts are sufficiently severe
to mar its beauty. For the covering of eastern or
northern walls it may also be planted with safety,
but on these aspects its earlier flowers are more
liable to be caught. For the purpose of covering
arches or gateways it is also very suitable. This
Jasmine does not appear to be at all particular as

to soil ; it must be poor indeed if good growth is
not made. I have often been struck, if not
actually amused, at the want of taste and lack of
common sense in its management. Only just
recently I saw an example that had been clipped
as close (and correctly, I suppose) as if it were a
Quick-set hedge. I hope the operator afterwards
felt gratified with the results he had accomplished ;
no doubt the neat appearance was his satisfac-
tion. Poor indeed, however, would this be to the
pleasing effect of unpruned plants now in their
full beauty. What possible pleasure there can
be in this intolerant use of the shears I cannot
possibly conceive. The growth even in itself of
this Jasmine is very light and pretty, thus afford-
ing no excuse for mutilation whatever. After the
flowering season is over then is the time to do any
thinning out or pruning, a deal of the latter work
being done in cutting the shoots when wreathed
in blossom. Tie the growths in then so as to
secure the plant for the next twelve months, but
in the name of common sense do not afterwards
attempt any more so-called work. When planted
alone this variety leaves a bare appearance upon
the walls during the winter unless the growths
be very thick. To remedy this I would advise
that it be planted or intermixed with J. revolu-
tum, an evergreen species flowering during the
summer, not so profuse perhaps as J. officinale,
the white variety in flower at the same time, but
none the less beautiful. J. revolutumand J. nudi-
florum planted alternately and allowed to grow
together would look well. In my own case I have
a groundwork of a small-leaved Ivy close to the
wall over which the shoots of J. nudiflorum are
merely secured ; this when in flower has also a
very pretty effect. Amongst other climbers also
it may be allowed to grow wild ; its foliage being
so very small, it can hardly do any harm.

J. H.

WHAT'S IN A NAME ?
Most of your readers will probably agree with
"J. C. L.'s" somewhat cynical letter under the
above heading, but none more strongly than I
do, for this frequent change of names is a positive
nuisance, which all amateurs must feel, for it is
distinctly annoying to have to learn a new name
for a friend of many years standing. I could
quote very many examples, but will select only
one, and that because in my case it had its
humorous side. Many years ago one of your fre-
quent correspondents, a great authority upon
correct naming, kindly sent me a short note say-
ing that he enclosed some seed of Hyacinthus
candicans. When two or three years afterwards I
told him how successful I had been in flowering
Hyacinthus candicans from his seed, he seemed
quite pained, remarking, " My dear sir, please
never say that again ; there is no such plant. I
presume you mean Galtonia candicans." Na-
turally I was not loth to make the most of my
opportunity.

There is, however, quite another aspect of the
subject to which "J. C. L." does not allude, viz.,
the use by nurserymen of Latin names in their
catalogues when English ones would certainly not
tempt the average amateur. In this case the only
possible answer to " What's in a name " is, I fear,
" money."

As an example let me give the following extract
from a well-known Dutch catalogue of this year's
date : "Cynara Scolymus, purple, Is. 6d. Anoblo
plant, 3 feet to 6 feet high, growing well in a rich
soil ; flowers in early autumn. This is one of the
most striking plants when seen isolated in the
grass in the picturesque flower garden." Now this
has appeared annually for many years, and in the
days when I knew so very little that I used even
to order plants from the description in catalogues,
I bought a plant of Cynara Scolymus, only to find
that there were two good rows of this "most
striking plant" in my kitchen garden, and so for
Is. 6d. I learnt the Latin name of the Artichoke !
Do you not remember how when there was rather
a rage for Marguerites a smart nurseryman sent
out Chrysanthemum segetum, describing it as a
golden Marguerite and charging 2-?. Gd. a packet

14

THE GARDEN

[.Tanuaky 5, 18*5.

the seed « I fancy ho found a good deal of Sir John Lubbock, Lord Rayleigh, Professor

for ..

money in that name, and probably Helped to get
rid of one of the most troublesome weeds in his
own garden (judging from its situation) at the
same time.

Having had my grumble, I will not multiply
example.-, but conclude by mentioning one change
of name that must have come as a great relief to
many. I mean when the authorities re-christened
the Imantophyllum, thus incidentally getting over
a difficulty in the treatment of the poor letter
" H," a difficulty which always reminded me of
the old story of the American who had his cards
printed "Awkins"for use in London, and was
consequently generally addressed correctly

A. K.

Notes of the Week.

Carnation Countess of Par's has done re-
markably well here, and I do not know of a more
profitable variety for cutting. Last spring I had
a house full of plants in bloom in 6-inch and 7-inch
pots, quite a sight. Some flowers were quite as
fine as those of Malmaison and bright pink.—
H. Becker, Jersey.

Aster cabulicus.^There is a clerical error in
the printing of Mr. Baker's note on p. 495 which
has probably escaped his notice, and as it is
adopted by "J. C. L." on p. 550, it is as well
that it should be corrected. The modern synonym
of Aster cabulicus is not Imeroglossa albescens, a
name which does not exist in botany, but Micro-
glossia albescens (see Hooker's " Flora of British
India," vol. iii., page 257). — 0. VV. Dod, Edge Hall,
ilcdpas.

The season in Worcestershire.— If the
present abnormally mild and spring-like weather
continues, the banks and copses will soon be all
aglow with Primroses. Already there are quan-
tities of blooms to be seen. Snowdrops are push-
ing through the soil fast, and will soon be in full
flower. Even the Daffodils are showing up.
Several good blooms of Rose Gloire de Dijon are
also to be seen on a bush in a sheltered nook. —
A. Young, Abherley Hall, Stourport, Dec. 29.

Chrysanthemum Mme. Bergmann. — I send
you a bloom or two of that excellent late
Chrysanthemum Mme. Bergmann, as I see no
mention of it in " E. J.'s " article a fortnight ago.
In growth and effect it is much like Phu'bus now
so popular, and, unlike that variety, which is so
early, Mme. Bergmann is as late as any Chrysan-
themum I know. The colour is so rich and full,
that even that of W. H. Lincoln looks pale by its
side. — Edward H. Woodall, Si. Nicholas House,

Scarborough.

Winter Sweet at Claremont. — I think you
will be interested in the enclosed good specimens
of two distinct types of Chimonanthus. The form
grar diflorus is very fine this year. The tree is a
very old one, covering a stretch of wall 25 feet by
13 feet. Since the beginning of December it has
been a mass of flower — E. Burreix, Claremont.

*»* The flowers of each form are very large and
show how well the soil and other conditions suit
this most precious [of winter-bloomirig shrubs. —
Ed.

Desfontainea spinosa. — I send you a flower
of Desfontainea spinosa that you may see how
long the plant continues in bloom. It has been
growing in the pleasure grounds here more than
thirty years and has not been without blooms
since July. It usually continues blooming until
the first sharp frost in the autumn, but the past
autumn has been so very free from frost until now
that the flowers have been uninjured. The plant,
which is growing in red loam on a southern slope,
is well sheltered by other shrubs. — John Garland,
Killerton, Exeter.

The word, "scientist." — In the December
number of Science Gossip a protest was entered
against the use of the word " scientist," and
opinions on the point have now been received
from some well-known men. The Duke of Argyll,

Huxley, and Dr. Albert Giinther unreservedly
condemn the word. Lord Rayleigh approves Lord
Kelvin's proposal to revert to the wider meaning
of " naturalist," while Dr. Gunther sarcastically
suggests that "scientist" might advantageously
be reserved to denote the modern dabblers in
great scientific questions. Professor Huxley
thinks "scientist" must be "about as pleasing as
' electrocution ' " to anyone who respects the
English language.

%* We are pleased this odious and needless
word has been disowned by some of our best
scientific men. Perhaps they will some day re-
pudiate the very loose way in which the word
"science " itself is used by many people. — Ed.

Hypericum patulum.— Though I have a very
great respect for Mr. Archer-Hind's knowledge
and judgment of hardy plants, I have never been
able to agree with him in his opinion that the
Hypericum patulum of Sir J. Hooker (Botanical
Magazine, tab. 5693, and "Flora of British
India," vol. i., 254) and of modern gardens is not
the H. patulum of Thunberg's " Flora Japonica"
(295, Icon. 17). Sir J. Hooker tells us that it is
" a native of Japan, discovered by Thunberg, and
introduced into Kew by Mr. Oldham, collector
for the Royal Gardens, who perished of fever on
the coast of China." Some years ago I examined
Thunberg's portrait of the plant, and made
inquiries at the Royal Herbarium whether any
doubt was felt there as to the identity of Sir J.
Hooker's plant, and was told that there was none.
That there has been some confusion in botanical
works between H. uralum, H. patulum and H.
oblongifolium is evident to anyone who examines
the character and synonyms given. De Candolle
(" Prodromus," vol. i., p. 545, A.D. 1824) agrees
with Thunberg in his description of H. patulum,
identifying it with H. uralum of Don, and also
describes another variety of the same species.
Even if Sir J. Hooker could have been mistaken
in recognising the characters, it is unlikely that a
shrub so easily raised from seed, as I have found
all this section of Hypericum to be, should be
unknown in English gardens in spite of our multi-
plied communication with Japan in horticultural
matters. — C. W. Dod, Edge Hall, Ma/pas.

The weather in West Herts.— The mild

weather, which had continued without a break

during the previous three weeks, suddenly came

to an end on December 29, since which time low

temperatures have prevailed. On Saturday in

last week the highest reading in shade was 46°,

but on Monday and Tuesday the temperature at

no time exceeded 34°. On Tuesday night the

exposed thermometer showed 14= of frost, which

is the lowest reading as yet registered by the same

instrument this winter. At the present time the

temperature of the soil stands at 39° at 2 feet, and

at 35° at 1 foot deep, both readings being very

similar to those recorded at the same date last

year. Snow fell for the first time during the

present winter on Saturday. There was also

another fall on Tuesday night, but on neither

occasion was there sufficient snow to completely

cover the ground. On Saturday the wind reached

the strength of a gale, but the velocity for no

single hour exceeded thirty-one miles. As in the

case of the ga'e which occurred just a week

previously, the strongest gusts came from due

west. December proved a very mild winter

month. Rain fell on nineteen days, and to the

total depth of nearly 2A inches, or about the

average quantity for the month. During the

year 1894 thirty inches of rain fell, which is only

about half an inch in excess of the mean fall for the

previous thirty-eight years. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

The Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund.—

The executive committee held a meeting at the
Hotel Windsor on the 28th ult., Mr. W. Marshall
presiding, there being a full attendance. The
following special subscriptions were announced :
The Altrincham Gardeners' Society, proceeds of
an entertainment per Mr. C. Hewett, £50 10s. ;
the Scottish Horticultural Association, £5 ; Bris-

tol Chrysanthemum Society, sale of flowers, per
Mr. J. Vallance, £5 5s. ; the Stockport Chrysan-
themum Society, £2 2s. ; the Ware District Gar-
deners'Mutual Improvement Society, £1 2s. ; Mr.
J. Rogers, Ware, 5s. ; Mr. G. R. Allie, Old Warden
Park, Biggleswade, 5s. ; and Mrs. Bowerman,
Hackwood Park, Basingstoke, 5s. The following
sums were from boxes : Mr. J. Burn, Abbey Park,
Leicester, £7 5s. ; Mr. J. B. Stevenson, Bourne-
mouth, £1 7s. 2d. ; Mr. H. A. Burbury, Birming-
ham, £1 10s. ; Mr. J. H. Witty, Nunhead, £1 3s. ;
Mr. A. J. Brown, Chertsey, 13s. 6d. ; Mr. H.
Herbst, Kew Road, Surrey, £5 5s. ; and Messrs.
W. Thomson and Son, Clovenfords, £3 13s. A
letter was read from Mr. George Bunyard, Maid-
stone, resigning his seat on the committee in con-
sequence of inability to attend the meetings. A
draft financial statement was furnished by the
honorary secretary, which was considered satis-
factory. Notice of motion was given to amend
the rules at the annual general meeting in one or
two particulars. The new applications from can-
didates desirous of being placed upon the fund
were finally cons'dered and approved. Ths
allowances to the orphans for the first quarter in
the present year were ordered to be paid. A
hearty vote of thanks was passed to the chairman
for presiding.

Obituary.

MR. C. COLLINS.
Many gardeners and nurserymen will hear with
great regret of the sudden death of Mr. C. Collins,
a member of the staff of the Journal of Horticul-
ture. On Christmas Day Mr. Collins was in his
usual health, but it appears he had been warned
by a medical man not to over-exert himself as he
suffered from heart disease. He died entering a
railway carriage at Forest Gate Station on Boxing
Day last while carrying one of his children in his
arms. Mr. Collins was born at Otterbourne, in
Hampshire, and had gained experience in several
good gardens, the last place he filled previously
to joining the horticultural press being at Howick
Castle. He first joined the Horticultural Times,
then Amateur Gardening, then the Gardeners'
Chronicle, and finally the Journal of Horticulture.
We have known Mr. Collins for many years, and
our sympathy is with his family in their bereave-
ment. He was about thirty years of age, and, we
understand, insured in small societies. Un-
fortunately, his death occurred too soon to realise
much benefit from one important office. He was
a member of the United Horticultural Benefit
and Provident Society, but had joined only re-
cently.

TRADE NOTES.

We learn that Her Majesty's Commissioners of
Woods and Forests have commissioned Messrs.
Clibran and Son, of Altrincham, and of the
Principality Nurseries, Llandudno Junction, to
carry out the planting of Crown lands in Wales.
The work is now in progress under the supervision
of Mr. T. Lewis, Jr.

BOOKS RECEIVED.

" Practical Forestry." Second edition. A.D. Web-
ster. Rider and Son, London, E.C.

" Transactions of the Royal Scottish Arboricultural
Society."

" Report of Proceedings of Viola Conference at
Birmingham, August 3, 1894."

-" Glenny's Garden Almanack." lliusti 1. Ward,
Lock, Buwden and Co.

Erica ramulosa.— Can any readei tell me in
what nursery in England or elsewhere I can obtain
^his plant. — J. V.

Names of plants.— J. H. Nicholson.— \, Cypri-
pedium insigne, ordinary form ; 2, too small to inden-

tify. Jas. Davidson.— Masdevallia Chimeera.

Damm. — Specimen too far gone to identify.

THE GARDEN

15

No. 1208. SATURDAY, January 12, 1895. Vol. XLVII.

"This la an Art
Which doeB mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

Orchids.

CATTLEYA PERCIVALIANA.

This is one of the most useful of al Cattleyas,
for it flowers always in midwinter. The flowers
are somewhat smaller than those of any other
species belonging to the labiata group, but to
compensate for this they are very brilliant and
vary considerably. They appear during the
months of December and January, a very ser-
viceable time, for it enables the keeping up of
a continuance of blooms after those of C. labiata
vera are past and before those of C. Trianre can
be expected to open. Compared with others of
this group, (J. Percivaliana is of comparatively
recent introduction, and for this, credit is due
to Mr. Sander, of St. Albans, whose collectors
first discovered it and sent plants home about
twelve years ago. Its natural habitat is in
South-west Venezuela, where it is said to grow
upon bare rocks fully exposed to the sun's rays
at about 4000 feet elevation and mostly in close
proximity to the rivers. From this we may gather
that this species enjoys a plentiful supply of
water during its season of growth. This spe-
cies has been iniroduced in considerable quanti-
ties since it first became known. I believe
amongst this first lot there unfortunately was
a large percentage of what may be termed in-
ferior varieties, all of which, however, were
well worth growing.

Probably through some want of knowledge as
to its treatment in this country the flowers were
at one time often found not to open well, and this
caused the species to have a bad reputation.
During the past few years the blooms have fully
developed, and the rich shades on the labellum
have materially added to its beauty. This
fine species was named in honour of Mr. R. P.
Percival, of Birkdale, Southport, who at one
time possessed a very fine collection of Orchids.
In growth this plant greatly resembles C.
Mossue, and has oblong, furrowed pseudo-bulbs,
which grow to about a foot in height, and are
furnished with solitary oblong leaves of a deep
green colour. The flowers are smaller than
those of C. Mossise and the smallest in this sec-
tion, although they individually measure be-
tween 4 inches and 5 inches across, and are
borne several upon a spike. As is usual with
most members of this genus, the flowers of this
kind are found to vary considerably in colour
and markings. Thus there are to be found
some with very pale segments, whilst others are
distinguished by their deep colour and yellow
markings in the throat. A good typical form
may be described as having the sepals and
petals of a purplish rose, the latter mostly more
deeply coloured and much broader than the
former ; the side lobes of the lip are of the same
shade as the petals, striated with dull orange ;
the front lobe beautifully frilled and of a rich
magenta-cri -.on, blotched more or less with
maroon an. :veaked with golden yellow ; the
throat yelk .., into which run some purple
lines. Amongst the numerous plants which
have arrived id this country, there has been in-
troduced a "iost chaste and beautiful albino va-
riety whicl. is known in our gardens as C.
Percivaliana alba. The first plant of the white
variety that flowered was in the collection of
Mr. Percival in 1884. It has entirely pure

white blooms with the exception of a yellow
stain in the throat. This, however, is exceed-
ingly scarce. W. Huch Gower.

Dendrobium nobile (T. Marshall). — There is
nothing unusual in having this in flower at this
season, for although somewhat early, 1 have re-
cently seen a quantity in Covent Garden Market.
By properly ripening the bulbs and giving them a
thorough rest, the plants may be placed in heat
and had in bloom by Christmas time, and where a
number of plants are grown, a fine succession of
flowers is easily obtained by proper treatment. It
is impossible to say whether you have a good or
bad variety unless you send a bloom. — W. H. G.

Oncidium ornithorrhynchum. — This very
beautiful and useful plant produces its long spikes
of many flowers very freely during the autumn
and winter months. These individually are not
large, but produced in great quantities. A speci-
men of the pure white form, which is very scarce,
was recently exhibited at a meeting of the Royal
Horticultural Society with seventeen grand spikes,
which carried nearly 1700 flowers. In the typical
plant the flowers are of a clear pale rose and have
a sweet fragrance. It is a native of Mexico and
(Guatemala, and enjoys cool treatment under cul-
tivation. Never allow the plant to become dry at
any time, as it requires no decided period of rest.
— W. G.

Cypripedium Curtisi (T. Marshall).— This
Cypripedium was discovered by the collector
whose name it bears and sent to Messrs. Veitch,
of Chelsea, from Sumatra about twelve years ago.
It is similar to C. ciliolare, but perfectly distinct,
and has been used with some good results in the
raising of new hybrids. The flowers are large,
the dorsal sepal small, white, heavily veined with
green ; the petals brownish purple, becoming
greenish towards the ends, and deflexed ; the large
lip of a dull dark purple. Possibly your plant is
a hybrid from this kind. — \V.

Cypripedium Spicerianum.— This is now
flowering in many collections, its distinct shape
and colour making it very welcome. It first
became known to us in 1878 through Mr. H.
Spicer, but was soon imported in considerable
numbers by various firms from Assam. In growth
the plant greatly resembles C. insigne, and the
flowers vary in their shades of green and brown.
The dorsal sepal is nearly entirely white, having
only a small portion of the base green, with a
very pronounced central line of deep purple.
This character is also very prominent in the
greenish petals, which are also deeply undulated
at the margins. Being of such a distinct character
it was eagerly sought after by the hybridiser, and
has been used largely with marked success. — G.

Odontoglossum coronarium. — This, al-
though it has been grown in our gardens for a
number of years, flowers very unsatisfactorily,
except in a few collections. It first became
known over forty years ago, and is a native of
New Grenada, where it grows at a considerable
elevation. The blooms, produced upon a many-
flowered raceme a foot or more in length, are
each over 2 inches across ; the sepals and petals of
a bright reddish brown, margined with yellow
and very shining ; the small lip bright yellow.
The plants should be placed in the cool house
near the roof, and never be allowed to become
dry at any season. It is known on the Continent
as O. candelabrum. — G.

"Wintering Calantb.es. — Being successful in
cultivating the very useful, early winter-flowering
section of Calanthes, I wish to draw attention to
an error which is often made with the pseudo-
bulbs during the winter or resting season, and
that is, subjecting them to too low a temperature,
and also placing them in too dark a position. The
pseudo-bulbs being leafless, it must not be
imagined that they may be stored in out-of-the-
way places, almost like Dutch bulbs, as if so,
even though they may remain plump, they start
away very feebly and are not to be compared with

others which have been rested in a warm tempera-
ture. Be'ng fairly well off for house room, I allow
them to remain well exposed to the light in the
structure where they have been grown and flowered.
Some of the pseudo-bulbs are also wintered on a
warm and dry shelf near the glass in a lean-to
plant stove. The bulbs are also allowed to remain
in the pots or baskets as grown. Under this
treatment the plants start away strongly, being
in this respect quite unlike any which are shaken
out of the soil after flowering with the idea of
storing in a smaller compass. — A. Young.

Odontogloesum leeve.— From " W. C. M.'
comes a bloom of this under the name of Odonto-
glossum Schixederianum, which is a far superior
and much rarer kind than O. la^ve. In the flower
before me, which measures about 2 inches in
diameter, the sepals and petals are light brown,
barred with yellow, whilst the small flat lip is
rosy lilac. This species is an old inhabitant of our
gardens and is a native of Mexico, requiring
quite cool treatment. It is one of the least, showy
kinds in this genus, and it is curious that it
should have been imported for O. Schro-derianum.
This is the second occasion during the past month
or two that I have seen O. h-eve called O. Schoeder-
ianum. — W.

Dendrobium aureum.— This fine old Dendro
bium, which is better known in our gardens under
the name of D. heterocarpum, is now flowering pro-
fusely with Messrs. Laing and Sons, of the Forest
Hill nurseries, quite small plants being completely
covered with bloom. The flowers are pro-
duced from the upper nodes of the two and three-
year-old stems ; therefore the annual pruning of
this species should not be attempted. The colour
of the sepals and petals is creamy white, and the
lip is tawny yellow, streaked with red, and vel-
vety purple on the disc. This is a very desirable
plant, the flowers lasting a considerable time in
full beauty and emitting a pleasant fragrance.
— G.

Cymbidium IiOwianum.- I am in receipt of
a bloom of this fine species from George Ford for
an opinion. It can only be described as a pale
form ; the lip is light red, which is by no means
uncommon, and the sepals and petals are quite
green. In the best varieties these latter approach
deep yellow, and the blotch on the lip is of a deep
reddish crimson. It appears to be rather early
for this plant to be in bloom, the usual time being
about a month hence. I have recently noticed
some exceedingly fine examples, but the blooms
will not be expanded until February or March.
The flowers will last two months and even longer
in perfection, and often upwards of thirty are
borne upon a spike. — W. G.

Cypripedium Leeanum superbum.— A re-
markably fine variety of this splendid hybrid is
now in flower in Messrs. Laing and Sons nur-
series, Forest Hill. It is the result of crossing O.
insigne Maulei with C. Spicerianum, and is far
superior to the ordinary form, which is a hybrid
from the typical form of C. insigne. During the
present season I have noticed a number of seed-
lings in flower at various establishments from
this parentage, and resulting in many varieties,
none of which, however, are distinct enough for
varietal names. The plant in question has a very
fine dorsal sepal, the spots being of nice colour,
the whole flower large and of good substance.
— W.

ODONTOGLOSSUM CERVANTESI AND
VARIETIES.

Odontoolossum Cervantesi is a dwarf-growing
species, flowering during the winter months, it
is easily grown and therefore very suitable for
amateurs. The best way to grow it is to suspend
it in shallow pans close to the roof of the cool
house. When so placed it succeeds far better
than when grown on the stages with other kinds
The potting compost should consist of fibrous peat
and Sphagnum Moss, and care must be taker, that
the drainage is in thorough order, for if allowed
to get into bad condition these small-growing

16

THE GARDEN.

[January 12, 1895.

kinds Foon dwindle away. When potting the
plants raise them well up on a mound-iike
cone. Thin pretty little species was intro-
duced into this country in a living state from
Mexico by tho Into Messrs. Loddiges, of Hackney.
Tho pseudo-bulbs are small and furnished with
solitnry oblong leaves, each about 4 inches or -r>
inches in length. The flowers, produced from
four to six upon a scape, are each nearly 2
inches in diameter. The petals are much broader
than the eepals, both pure white, transversely
In aked around the base with broken lines of red-
dish brown ; the lip is broad, with finely undulated
margin and pure white.

O. Cervantesi decorum. — This magnificent
variety of the typical form first appeared, I
believe, in the collection of Sir Trevor Lawrence,
Bart., at Dorking. In this form the flowers are
very much larger and all the segments broader,
the broken lines are more numerous and of a deeper
shade, whilst the large lip is deeply bi-lobed and
finely cut at the margin, the streaks on the disc
being of a purplish colour.

O. Cervantesi mem bran acecm. — This charm-
ing little kind ditl'ers somewhat from the type and
was described by Dr. Lindley in 1838. It pro-
duces a raceme of several flowers, which are some-
times white and sometimes of a rose colour, with
the usual characteristic broken lines on the sepals
and petals, which are also produced slightly upon
the bluntly cordate lip.

These form a very nice little group, to which
should be added 0. lErstedti, O. Krameri, 0. Rossi
with its varieties, and others, which all succeed
well under similar treatment.

Wm. Hugh Gower.

each measure about 6 inches aeross and are of a pale
rosy magenta, with a deep, rich crimson-purple lip.
There is also a charming variety of this plant named
I*. Perrini nivea, which flowers at the same season —
October to December. In this the sepals and petal b
are white, as are also the side lobes of the lip, the
front lobe being pale rose. It is a beautiful companion
to the typical form. — W.

Odontoglossum crispum (Beginner).— Un-
doubtedly this is the most useful and most extensively
grown ( >dontoglossum in cultivation. It is, however,
not advisable to try to hurry this plant into bloom at
the present season, for the spikes appear to make up
better if produced a little later on, and will then be
safer from the fog. This has probably been the cause
of your blooms fading so quickly. The pure white
form is very chaste and beautiful, hut the best and
most valuable varieties are those which are spotted and
suffused with deep rose. — W.

SHOUT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Cypripedium Youngianum superbum. —
t nder this name I recently noticed a very distinct plant
in bloom in the Cambridge Lodge collection. It was
supposed to be the result of crossing C. lajvigatum
with C. ciiiolare, and has the dorsal sepal very heavily
veined, (he deeply coloured drooping petals being very
thickly spotted.— W. G.

Cypripedium callosum sublasve.— This is
a distinct foim of this beautiful species, and, according
to the late Professor Keichenbach, is a hybrid between
C. callosum and C. Hookeue. The petals are of a
hue purplish rosy colour, and the lip is also suffused
with rose. A very nice variety is at present in flower
at Messrs. Peed and Son's Koupell Park Nurseries,
Norwood. — G.

Cypripedium Boxalliatratum— This is one

of the finest varieties of this beautiful species. It ia a
native of the Tongu district, in Aloulmein, the indivi-
dual blooms being large, cf good substance, and quite
shiny in appearance, as in C. villosum. In the variety
atratum the dorsal sepal is larger and more heavily
blotched with black, whilst the petals are broader and
much brighter in colour. — W.

Masdevallia Gairiana — A beautiful hybrid
Masdevallia of Veitcbian origin, obtained by crossing
M. Yeitchiana with M. Davisii. It grows to about 4
inches or 5 inches in height and has slightly arching
foliage. The colour of the flower is reddish orange^
spotted principally upon the upper sepal with mauve-
<oloured warts. It is a decided addition to this genus,
and was first flowered about ten years ago. — W.

The Dove Orchid (Peristeria elata) (T. W. 0.).
— This is the name of your plant, and it will attain a
height of from 3 feet to 4 feet when well grown. The
flowers will open about July or August and continue in
perfection for two months. The spike grows even
higher than the foliage. At the present season this
species must be kept quite dry. When growth com-
mences water must be given with care. Place it in the
Cattleya house. — G.

Odontoglossum prseatans. Under this name
comes :i fluwer it' an ( Id. ml nu[, .-mum t'n.ui (Jenrge
Woodhouse. This has lanceolate sepals and petals
greenish yellow, tapering sharply at the points, and
spotted and blotched with dull brown; the lip and
column white, the former having a brown blotch
upon the centre and with a pale vellow crest. It is
a very nice flower, but I should take it to be aform
of O. glonosum. — W.

Laslia Perrini.— This fine autumn-flowering kind
seldom attains more than 1 foot in height. The flowers

Trees and Shrubs.

THE BAMBOO GARDEN.

Futdre Possibilities.

No one who has realised the great and un-
expected successes which have already been
attained in the cultivation or acclimatisation
of Bamboos can doubt that much more re
mains to be achieved, and that the possi-
bilities are far from being exhausted. When
we consider that both in Asia and in South
America there are Bamboos growing at almost
incredible altitudes, that among the Andes,
for instance, there is one species at least —
Chusquea aristata — to he found at a height
corresponding to the top of Mont Blanc, we
are encouraged to believe that enterprise will,
in the near future, enrich our gardens with
many a new beauty. Then there is the evi-
dence of the tessellation of the leaf veins, to
which I have already alluded. For this evi-
dence I do not claim more value than is
afforded by the simple fact that no Bamboo
without this character has proved thoroughly
hardy in this country. it is certain that
there are tropical Bamboos with tessellated
venation which we could not hope to grow,
and therefore the test is an incomplete one.
But when we find it combined with a natural
habitat of great altitude and in plants sur-
rounded by a non-tropical vegetation, we have
good reason to put faith in the hardiness of
the species and a warranty for trying to
acclimatise it here. It must, however, be
remembered that altitudes in tropical climates
by no means represent the same temperature
that they do in Europe. I am assured that in
Madras and Ceylon snow does not fall below
9000 feet above the sea ; that in Khasia it
does not fall below 7000 feet; in Sikkim below
6000 feet; and that at a height of 5000 feet
the vegetation of Tenasseiim is sub-tropical.
But when all these facts are taken into con-
sideration it is still certain that the Hima-
layas are full of treasures which we as yet do
not possess. Eminent botanists are at the
present moment busy with the matter, and
when Mr. Gamble's great monograph on
Indian Bamboos appears, tinder the auspices
of the Indian Government, a totally new light
will be thrown upon the subject.

_ The exploration of the Andes is a more
difficult matter, yet they are rich in species

with tessellated leaves growing at heights from
4000 feet to 15,000 feet above the sea level,
and assuredly they should be laid under con-
tribution. The great difficulty will be that
the absence of great botanical establishments
such as those of India must throw the task of
investigation upon private enterprise.

Africa is, so far as is at present known, a
less promising field for the collector of hardy
Bamboos ; but it must be remembered that
hitherto the chief authority to which we look
is General Munro's " Monograph," which
appeared in 1866, when the Dark Continent
was still an unexplored table-land. It is pro-
bable that since the European Powers have
penetrated its most hidden recesses many
botanical secrets, undreamt of in our philo-
sophy of a few years ago, will be revealed. .

Whether China and Japan can yield us
much more than they have hitheito done is
to me doubtful. We possess already no fewer
than forty distinct species of hardy Bamboos
from that source. Both the Chinese and Ja-
panese are excellent gardeners and cultivators,
trained by heredity in the art of adapting and
improving plants. From time immemorial
they have been engaged in ransacking their
native forests and mountains for the enrich-
ment of their pleasure grounds, and it is not
likely that such sharp eyes should have passed
by any species of conspicuous merit in a genus
which, in their view, is the type of all that is
most graceful and most poetical in plant life.
Moreover, they are essentially practical people,
to whom the commercial and utilitarian value
of the Bamboo appeals with the chink of
dollars. For these reasons I am inclined to
think that we shall not get many new varie-
ties from their gardens. To many of these
gardens our European collectors have for
some years had free access, and have thus had
before them a living catalogue of the daintiest
and loveliest species, with the result shown
by the enumeration given in previous chapters.
On the other hand, it must be remembered
that the flora of China especially is one of the
richest in the world, that our botanists are
only now beginning to examine it by the light
of Western science, and that therefore it is
dangerous to hazard any very definite opinion
in regard to it. One of our greatest botanists
writes to me : " The flora of Noith-westein
China is essentially Himalayan, with a
profusion of distinct Rhododendrons ; why
not, then, of hardy Bamboos 1 ''

With a view, then, of calling the attention
of our collectors in various parts of the world
to the subject, I have drawn up a list of those
plants described by Munro which appear to
be the most likely to succeed in this country,
and to which the numerous expeditions sent
out in search of Orchids and other rare plants
might, in passing, profitably turn their atten-
tion.

I am aware that my list errs on the side of
hopefulness. A trial, at any rate, will do no
harm, even though some species should be
sentenced to death, otheis to imprisonment in
the temperate house ; while every new plant
flourishing in freedom will be a real treasure
gained to our gardens — in every sense a sur-

January 12, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

17

vival of the fittest. Many of them, no doubt,
will only find a congenial home in the warmest
nooks of our islands, but some there are which
may assuredly settle down comfortably among
their Chinese and Japanese cousins in the
ordinary English climate.

Here is an index, taken by continents, of
si Hue of the species which I should wish to
see introduced, together with many others
unknown hitherto undescribed. Those marked
with an asterisk are to be found in the Kew
collection, but none, so far as I know, are as
yet in commerce : —

Asia.

♦Arundinaria racemosa (Munro). — Native
name Pat-hioo. Tessellated leaves. 5000 feet to
12,000 feet. N.E. Himalayas.

A. Wrightiana (Nees). — Tessellated leaves.
Nilghiri Mountains.

A. longiramea (Munro). — Tessellated leavee.
Hong Kong.

A. floribunda (Munro). — Tessellated leaves.
Ceylon.

A. Griffithiana (Munro). — Tessellated leaves.
Khasian Hills.

A. Walkeriana (Munro). — Tessellated leaves.
Arlam's Peak, Ceylon.

A. debilis (Thwaites).— Habitat 6000 feet to
8000 feet above sea. Ceylon.

A. intermedia (Munro). — Sikkim. 7000 feet to
8o00 feet above sea.

*A. Hookeriana (Munro). — Native name Praong
(Hooker). Sikkim. 400(1 feet to 6800 feet above sea.

A. aristata (Gamble).— 9300 feet to 11,000
feet above sea. N. E. Himalayas. Not described
by Munro.

A. Praini (Gamble).— 3500 feet to 7800 feet
above sea. Naga Hills, Upper Assam. Not
described by Munro.

A. callosa (Munro). — Tessellated leaves.
" Prickly-jointed Bamboo." Native name Uskong
(Hooker). 600U feet above sea. Khasian Hills.

A. iiirsuta (Munro). — Tessellated leaves. 6000
feet above sea. Khasian Hills. " Spinous stems "
(Hooker).

A. microphylla (Munro). — Tessellated leaves.
6000 feet to 10,000 feet above sea. N.E. Hima-
layas.

A. Rolloana (Gamble).— 5000 feet to 7000 feet
above sea. Naga Hills. Not described by Munro.

A. jaunsarensis (Gamble).— 7000 feet to 8000
feet above sea. N. W. Himalayas. Not described
by Munro.

•TlIAMNOC ALAMUS SPATHIFLORUS (Munro).— Con-

spicuously tessellated leaves. 8500 feet to 10,000
feet above sea. Nepaul, Sikkim, Bootan. (Noto. —
Several cultivators have a plant with striated
leaves wrongly sent out under this name. )

Phyllostachys Stauntoni (Munro). — Tessel-
lated leaves. China.

Bambusa nutans (Wallich).— 5000 feet to 7000
feet above sea. Nepaul, Silhet, Khasia, Assam,
Sikkim. Native name in Sikkim, " Mahlo."

B. Griffithiana (Munro). — Tessellated leaves.
Only once found by Griffith in the extreme north
of Burmah, associated with numerous tropical
plants. Only in'erted here on account of the
tessellation. Probably not hardy.

B. Cantori (Munro).- Tessellated leaves. China.

B. Aprs (Schultes).— Tessellated leaves. Mount
Salak, Java.

B. cornuta (Munro). —Tessellated leaves. Java.
Nativename, " Tring embon."

B. Ritcheyi (Munro). -Tessellated leaves.
Bombay, below the fall of the KalaNuddi. Native
name, "Choomaree."

B. Mastersii (Munro). — Tessellated leaves.
Assam, Dibrooghur. Nativename, "Bentibans."

*Cephalostachyum capitatum (Munro). — Tes-
sellated leaves. 4000 feet to 5000 feet above sea.
Khasia, Sikkim.

C pallidum (Munro). — India, Mishmee, Bur-
mah, Patkaye. 5000 feet above sea. Native
name, " Betee Bans."

Dinochloa tjankorreh (Buse). — Inconspicuous
tessellation. Philippine Islands, and 4000 feet
above sea in Java, Mount Salak.

Africa.

Arundinaria tessellata (Munro). — Tessellated
leaves. 500 feet to 6500 feet above sea. Mount
Winterberg, Caffre-land, Mount Katberg. Closely
resembling the Arundinaria macrosperma of North
America.

NASTUSBORBONicus(Kunth). — Tessellated leaves.
Alpine, 1000 feet to 3000 feet above sea. Island
of Bourbon or Reunion.

CEniALOsTACHYUM Chapelieri (Munro). — Tes-
sellated leaves. Madagascar. A climbing stem.

South America.

Arundinaria RADiATA(Ruprecht). — Tessellated
leaves. The forests of Brazil.

A. amplissima (Nees).— Brazil. 4000 feet to 5000
feet above sea.

Arthrostylidium longifolium (Munro). — 6000
feet above sea. Venezuela.

A. Schomburgki (Munro). — 6000 feet above sea.
Guiana. Native name, " Curata." Lowest inter-
nodes 12 feet to 16 feet long.

Chusquea uliginosa (Philippi). — Tessellated
leaves. Chili, Valparaiso.

C. andina (Philippi). — Tessellated leaves.
Andes, on the fringe of the perpetual snow.

C. culeou (Gay, " Flora Chili '). —Tessellated
leaves. Chili.

C. tessellata (Munro). — Conspicuously tessel-
lated leaves. Andes of Bogota. ! = Bambusa
disticha.

C. aristata (Munro). — Conspicuously tessel-
lated leaves. 13,000 feet to 15,000 feet above sea
in the Andes, Ecuador, Quito.

C. Fendleri (Munro).— 6000 feet to 12,000 feet
above sea. Venezuela, Ecuador.

C. Dombeyana (Kunth). — 6000 feet above sea.
Peru, New Grenada, Bogota, Tolima, Ecuador.

C. Quii.a (Kunth). — Tessellated leaves. Chili,
Valparaiso, Valdivia, Chiloe.

C. Sellovii (Ruprecht). — Tessellated leaves.
Brazil.

C. Gaudichaudii (Kunth). — Tessellated leaves.
Rio de Janeiro.

C. capitui.iflora (Trinius). — Tessellated leaves.
Brazil, Rio de Janeiro. Native name " Quixiume."

C. uapitata (Nees). — Tessellated leaves. Brazil.

Nastus barbatus (Ruprecht). — Tessellated
leaves. Mountain forests of Brazil.

(Iuadua angustifolia (Kunth). — Tessellated
leaves. 2400 feet above sea. Western slope of
Andes, New Grenada, La Paila, Bogota, Ecuador,
Peru.

G. amplexifolia (Presl). — Tessellated leaves.
20OO feet above sea. Mexico, Santa Cruz, New
Grenada, Venezuela.

Scotch Laburnum .—Those who are fond of
Laburnum should not fail to plant this, seeing it has
many advantages over the common kind. It is much
later in comiDg into bloom, and also bears much longer
racemes of flower. The foliage, too, is much larger
and more shining. I also find it much freer growing.
Many of the trusses of bloom last summer were over
a foot in length. — Dorset.

Osmanthus ilicifolius. — This dwarf ever-
green shrub of Holly-like appearance is one of the
most useful of the many good things introduced
from Japan by John Gould Veiteh more than a
quarter of a century ago. It often takes many
years before the actual value of an introduction
of this kind can be fully estimated : it has been
so in this case. This Osmanthus, moreover, is
coming into favour as a plant for town gardens
both for boxes and in the open ground. Having
once proved its hardiness, it is no wonder that
increased inquiries are being made for it. Its
dwarf compact habit makes it preferable to the
good old Mahonia aquifolia, from the simple fact
that it will lift with a good ball of soil ; whereas
the latter will not. Its lustrous Holly-like leaves
do not accumulate the Eooty deposits beyond the
possibility of cleansing. As a front row plant or
for massing it is excellent, making also a good

groundwork to taller things of deciduous charac-
ter. For planting upon rockwork it is also ad-
mirable, taking some few years before it will out-
grow its position. I have not tried the dwarfer
variegated form (O. ilicifolius variegatus nanus),
a most distinct acquisition, and hardy also beyond
a doubt. There are also both a silver and a
golden variety, and another with a metallic
purple shading on the leaves, a very distinct
form. — S.

THE TULIP TREE.

(liriodendron tulipifera.)

This is one of the very finest flowering trees that
have been brought from North America, numerous
as those have been. It is the only species in the
genus and is nearly allied to the Magnolias. It is
spread widely over the North American continent,
reaching in the most suitable localities a height of
140 feet, with a trunk 5 feet to 6 feet in diameter.
For English parks and large gardens, more espe-
cially in the south, it may be strongly recom-
mended, being of elegant, yet stately growth and
carrying an abundant canopy of foliage. The
leaves, borne on long petioles, are very dis-
tinctly four-lobed, each lobe ending in a rounded
point ; the terminal part has the appearance of
having been cut off. The shape of the leaf is,
however, subject to considerable variation. In
some forms the four main lobes are again divided ;
in others the lobes are reduced to two. The flowers
are solitary and in size and shape have some re-
semblance to a Lily — a likeness implied in the
name of Liriodendron. They are cup-shaped and
made up of three sepals, which are reflexed,
and six erect petals, which on the outside are
greenish yellow, but marked inside with a spot of
bright orange. A large tree thickly studded over
with bloom has a very striking appearance ; the
flowers are at their best in June and July. Trees
raised from seed do not as a rule flower in this
country until they are more than twenty years
old. Like its near allies, the Magnolias, the Tulip
Tree is impatient of disturbance at the root when
once it has become established. It should, incon-
sequence, be planted in its permanent quarters as
soon as possible, and whilso in the nursery it should
not be allowed to remain more than two seasons
without transplanting. In the matter of soil its
requirements are similar to others of the Mag-
noliace;e family — a rich, moist loam, inclining
rather to the heavy than the light side. There
are two or three variegated forms of this tree in
cultivation. In one a Targe proportion of the leaf
is yellow ; in the variety aureo-marginatum this
colour is confined to the margins. In autumn the
entire foliage of the tree before it falls turns to a
brilliant golden yellow. It is, indeed, one of the
finest of our autumn-tinted trees. B.

HOLLIES AND THEIR MUTILATION.
No evergreen tree or shrub suffers so much at
this season of the year as the Holly in respect to
cutting for Christmas decorations. It is not my
purpose to enter into a discussion pro or con as
regards the use of cut Evergreens at such times.
It is rather to enter a protest against the whole-
sale destruction of Holly trees and shrubs, these
being cut down and sent to market in immense
quantities. It is not everyone, perhaps, who is a
lover of shrubs that has an opportunity of inspect-
ing the produce of this kind sent to market. In
order to secure a large supply such as one sees in
Covent Garden, it is not so much a matter cf
stumping off young trees or bushes as it is of
lopping older ones that have taken years to grow.
To see° these lopped and hacked about in an in-
discriminate manner is simply grievous. No land-
owner should tolerate its being done, neither
should those who have the charge of property
permit it. As a hardy British Evergreen I do not
consider the Holly has an equal, but if the cutting
and lopping go on increasing, some districts at
least will be deprived of their best examples. It
is, on the other hand, possible in most instances

18

THE GARDEN.

[January 12, 1895.

to take shoots here and there in a moderate way
without doing any material harm. Unless the
view in any particular direction is obstructed, I
would never permit a Holly tree to be cut down.
It ie very rare that one will die a natural death,
hence Hollies are all the more valuable. My practice
in cutting Holly for nearly twenty years past has
been to shorten overhanging branches, so as to
admit more light to those underneath. In this
way I have worked up a number of shapely plants
into the pyramidal form, some with a broad base
in proportion to the height, others more tapering,
but well furnished to the ground. At first a few
larger branches had to be shortened ; now it is
merely a matter of foreshortening. Some of the
tallest of these trees are now nearly 30 feet in
height, it not being an easy matter, even with
the standard tree pruners, to reach their topmost
shoots. I find, however, that now their growth
is far more equal than it was, so much so in some
instances that they grow naturally as pyramids
without any training at all. Holly berries are
most abundant this season, both the red and the
yellow-fruited forms. I have never noted a pro-
lific crop of berries, however, on Golden Queen or
Silver Queen ; to cut these in any quantities would
be nothing less than barbarous. The inferior
variegated forms berry freely. Southron.

Rhododendron dahuricum. — The excep-
tionally mild weather experienced in the south up
to the present (the middle of December) is show-
ing its effects already in the flowering of this Rho-
dodendron, which has for a fortnight past been in
bloom in the sheltered Rhododendron dell at
Kew. Its normal season is, however, in February.
It is a native of Siberia, and was introduced
into this country about the year 1780. It is a
shrub of rather sparse growth, rarely seen in
bushy form when old, and attains a heieht of 5
feet. The leaves are small and of a dark green ;
in the ordinary form they are deciduous, but
in the variety called atro-virens they remain on
the plant throughout the winter. The flowers,
spread out almost flat, each measure 1£ inches in
diameter, the colour being a bright, glowing rosy
purple. The early flowering and perfect hardi-
ness of the species have led to its being used in
hybridisation, one of the most popular and useful
of its hybrids being R. pra;cox, raised from it and
the Himalayan R. ciliatum.

Olearia Haasti. — I have been much struck
with the appearance of this compact growing and
most profuse flowering shrub during the past few
seasons. Like Osmanthus ilicifolius, it is an in-
creasingly popular plant. Its season of flowering
is the latter part of July up to the end of August.
Although it is deemed one of the hardiest of its
genus and quite safe in most parts of this country,
I would prefer to plant it in rather dry and ele-
vated positions. If too moist at the root it is
just possible that one of our most severe winters
might affect it, it being borne in mind that it is an
inhabitant of New Zealand, where this genus is
known as the Daisy Trees. At Chiswick there is
quite a large bush of this species in a position
facing north. Thus far I have not seen it used
as a seaside plant, but from its appearance I am
most favourably disposed towards it by reason of
its close, short-jointed, and sturdy habit— strong
recommendations against the sea breezes. Another
species, O. macrodonta, is recommended on the
best authority as being more suitable even than
the foregoing for this climate.— G. H. A.

Mistletoe.— As a marked contrast to the
trouble taken in some places to secure a stock of
Mistletoe, a friend was telling me lately that it
multiplies so rapidly and easily with him as to be
somewhat of a nuisance. Not content with re-
maining in the park, it found a resting-place some
years ago on old espalier Apples, the result beino-
a few nice bushes, which have to be strictly pre"-
served. As an outcome, however, of the first in-
vasion of the Apples, there is such a tendency to
spread as to necessitate strict orders to carefully
look for and cut out all freshly formed growths in

the bark at each annual winter pruning. I noticed
the other day an instance of the self-propagation
of the parasite on a Sugar Maple, which may be
of interest to your readers, especially as this Acer
is not, I believe, among the list of trees which are
usually ranked as Mistletoe trees. The tree in
question is a nice specimen from 50 feet to 60 feet
in height and with a proportionately well-furnished
head, in the top of which five or six large bushes
of Mistletoe have for a long time found a resting-
place. Within the last two or three seasons —
doubtless as a result of an exceptionally good
crop of berries — little twigs of the parasite are in
evidence all over the tree literally from top to
bottom. Given a few years and fairly rapid de-
velopment, this Maple will during the winter
months be an interesting sight, evenly loaded
throughout its height and breadth with the green
bushes. An impression seems to exist that the
presence of Mistletoe in quantity on any tree is
highly detrimental. It may be so slightly, but
not to any serious extent — not, I mean, shortening
the life of the tree. The age and size of both
Limes and Thorns that one occasionally sees quite
in parts loaded with the parasite prove the con-
trary.— E. Burrell, Claremont.

THE WAX MYRTLES OF THE SEA-COAST

OF EASTERN NORTH AMERICA.

Those who have written specially of the plants
of the Northern States have referred the common
coast Myrica to the Myrica cerifera of Linnaeus
without even a question as to its being a variety
of that species. When the plants are seen grow-
ing, however, it is impossible to adopt this view,
or admit that the northern and southern plants
are varieties of one species. In describing
the trees of this genus I shall follow Catesby,
Miller and Elliott, and call the southern arbores-
cent plant Myrica cerifera, and the northern
shrubby plant, which also ranges far to the
south, Myrica carolinensis.

Myrica cerifera is a tree sometimes 40 feet in
height, with a tall stem covered with pale smooth
bark, and sometimes only a few inches thick, al-
though occasionally more than a foot in diameter,
and a narrow head of slender upright branches,
which are usually forked towards the extremities.
Theleaves, which remain on the branchesuntil after
the appearance of those of the following year, are
from 2J inches to 3 inches in length, usually from
a quarter of an inch to half an inch in width,
and covered with bright golden resinous glands,
which are so thick and conspicuous on the young
foliage that it appears bright yellow. The leaves
have a strong resinous smell, quite unlike the pecu-
liar odour of the northern plant. The fruit is pale
blue. It grows in low wet holes in the maritime Pine
belt and in deep swamps near the coast under the
shade of Red Maples, Cotton Gums, Sweet Gums
and Bay trees ; and where roads or openings have
been made through them this tree may often be
seen bending down along the margin of the forest,
its long slender stem being unable to hold the head
erect unless surrounded by other trees. I have found
it near Cape Charles, in Virginia ; it is very com-
mon on the coast and islands of the south Atlantic
States from Cape Fear River south to the Florida
keys and on the Gulf coast as far west, at least,
as Berwick Bay, and probably farther, although
I do not remember to have seen it on the Texas
coast ; it is said to grow on several of the Antilles,
and I have collected it in Bermuda, where it is
abundant. There is a form of this species (the
variety pumila of Michaux) which grows in the
Pine barrens of the south Atlantic and Gulf coast
region, usually in rather low, slightly moist
places not far from the margins of swamps. This
is often only a foot high, but otherwise is not dis-
tinguishable from the arborescent form except in
its narrower, smaller leaves and rather smaller
fruit.

Myrica carolinensis is a low shrub, usually
not more than 2 feet or 3 feet high, which often
forms broad, dense thickets. The leaves are from

2J inches to 3J inches long and three-quarters of
an inch to 1J inches wide. The resinous glands
are smaller than those on the leaves of Myrica
cerifera, and never abundant enough to give the
foliage the yellow colour which is so marked in
that species. The fruit is more than twice as
large as that of Myrica cerifera and rather paler,
although the colour of the fruit of both these
plants varies considerably on different individuals.
This is common on the shores of the Great Lakes
and near the ocean from Southern Maine to
Southern New Jersey, and at the north inhabits d ry
hilly and sandy shore dunes; south of New Jersey
it is rare, although I have seen occasional isolated
plants near Wilmington, North Carolina, at Bluff-
ton, South Carolina, and near Mobile, growing in
swamps with Myrica cerifera, and Dr. Chapman
and Mr. Curtiss have collected it at Apalachicola ,
Florida.

Myrica inodora is a beautiful little tree with
pale bark and dark green very lustrous persist-
ent leaves, the fruit sometimes nearly a quarter
of an inch in diameter. It was discovered by
William Bartram in a swamp near Mobile, where
it still grows, as well as in one or two others in
the same region. It has been found near Apala-
chicola and is comparatively common on the
Indian River, in Florida ; but, although fir6t de-
scribed more than a century ago, it is still one of
the least known of American trees. — Garden and
Forest.

AUCUBAS.

Notwithstanding the large number of new va-
rieties introduced from time to time (not so much
perhaps of late years as from fifteen to twenty
years back), Aucuba japonica, more correctly
perhaps termed Aucuba japonica maculata, still
heads the list as a shrubbery plant of the first
rank. In some districts, it is true, it does not
thrive so well as one could wish, but these occur-
rences are extremely rare so far as I have person-
ally taken notes. As an undergrowth to tall de-
ciduous trees I would not be without this Aucuba
on any account. For such purposes I consider it
onerof the best shrubs that can be planted. When
the tall deciduouB trees have cast their foliage,
that of the Aucuba shines forth at its best. Some
may possibly have failed when planting for this
particular purpose where it has not been an easy
matter to get anything to thrive. As regards the
Aucuba, I find it is best to select yearling plants
for massing or planting in any quantity in un-
favourable positions. By this I mean either
cuttings that have been rooted for about
twelve months or layers of the same stage. Mine
were the latter, the work of layering being done
after the annual early winter cleaning out. These
make capital dwarf stuff to plant straight away
when well rooted, pegging down being practised
for a season or two afterwards so as to cover the
ground, which has now been done where pre-
viously it was well-nigh impossible to get any-
thing to thrive, the large overhanging tree in this
instance being an immense Horse Chestnut. Lit
the shrubs be what they may, deciduous or ever-
green, it is in my opinion, from practical observa-
tion, far better to depend on quite young plants
when grouping or massing has to be performed
under the shade of trees, the ground around
which is permea'ed with roots. Some planters
may and do, I know, employ larger plants for
this purpose, but I am fully persuaded that it is
wrong in practice ; it may take a less number,
but these will of the two be the more expensive.
The small ones with a fair attention to watering
have a much better chance of succeeding. If it
be sloping banks that have to be planted, the same
argument still holds good. In the case of Aucu-
bas (i.e., the ordinary or common variety) I have
noted particularly how easily they may be re-
moved and transplanted at almost any season
of the year, except when the young growth is
quite tender. As stop-gaps, therefore, this makes
it all the more desirable to have a stock of young
plants in hand for filling up blank spaces.

G. H. A.

January 12, 1895 J

THtt GAKDEN.

19

Stove and Greenhouse.

LILTUM SPECIOSUM IN POTS.
Some Lilies are grown only to a very limited
extent, while, on the hand, what may be re-
garded as popular species may be met with
in almost every garden. To this latter class
belong such as L. Harrisi, L. tigrinum and
varieties, L. umbellatum or davuricum, as well
as that figured in the accompanying illustration,
L. speciosum, which is occasionally met with
under the specific name of lancifolinm. This,
either in pots or in the open ground, may under
favourable conditions be depended upon to do
well. It usually blooms during the latter half
of August and well on into September, but, of
course, it is in this respect influenced by the
season, as, for instance, in 1893, owing to the
tropical weather then experienced, we had very
few flowers after the middle of August. When

in pots, it may if needed be had in bloom al I

the end of June or early part of July, but in

and the best sent from Japan are more than a
month later ; indeed, Japanese bulbs in splen-
did condition reach here up to the end of the
second month in the new year. In potting the
bulbs thorough drainage must be ensured, and
where several are grown together in large pots,
it is a very good plan to leave a space of 3
inches or 4 inches to allow of a top-dressing
later on as the roots at the base of the flower-
stem make their appearance. The bulbs should
wherever possible be at such a depth that there
is a couple of inches of soil over the top of the
bulb, and when potted they may be stood out-
doors on a bed of ashes and covered about 3
inches deep with the same material or with
cocoa-nut refuse. This must be removed pre-
vious to their starting into growth. When re-
quired to flower under glass at the normal
season they may be left out of doors till the
buds are formed, but if a succession is needed
some may be protected by a frame and given a
greenhouse temperature as they develop. Good
showy masses result when three bulbs are
placed in a pot 10 inches in diameter, while

Lilium speciosum on terrace. Engraved from a photograph sent by Mr. 8. Hore, Hart, U.S. (J., Cornwall

most instances it is more useful when it blooms
at its usual time, forming as it does a link
between many summer-flowering plants which
are then on the wane and the first of the
Chrysanthemums. In growing this Lily in pots
a nood deal will, of course, depend upon the
purpose for which the plants are required, as in
some cases, particularly if they have to be
dropped into ornamental pots or vases as they
come into bloom, the bulbs will often need to
be potted singly ; whereas for the embellish-
ment of conservatories and such like several
bulbs in a large pot yield the best results. A
suitable compost for potting is good turfy loam,
'lightened somewhat by an admixture of leaf-
mould and well-decayed manure, with a liberal
sprinkling of sand. For single bulbs pots 5
inches in diameter (that is the regulation 48-
sized pot of the market growers) will suffies,
but for others pots G inches or even 7 inches
acri iss will be needed. Bulbs of L. speciosum
are sent to this country in large numbers when
dormant ; hence, though it is important to pot
them as soon as possible, it should be borne in
mind that those from Holland do not, as a
reach here till October is well advanced,

larger clumps can be formed by an increased
size of pot and a greater number of bulbs.
When out of doors during the summer no great
amount of attention is needed, but the soil must
in it be allowed ti I get too dry at any time ; while,
on the other hand, an excess of moisture must
be avoided. A good deal of trouble is saved by
plunging them to the rim of the pot in cocoa-
nut refuse. When out of doors insect pests
rarely trouble this Lily, though occasionally a
few aphides make their appearance ; but under
glass they are sometimes more numerous, and a
black fly is also troublesome. When the pots
get full of roots a mixture of weak liquid manure
and suot water will be of service, as it tends not
only to eucourage the flower buds, but also to
retain the foliage in good condition.

When this Lily is grown in pots a good time
to repot is soon after the flower-stems decay,
for it will be found that the stout roots at the
base of the bulb commence growing with great
freedom soon after flowering is over. They
may be shifted on into larger pots as needed,
but where the pots are already large enough ami
the soil and basal roots in good condition, a top
dressing is all that is required. To do this

effectually, however, the old soil should be re-
moved as far as the upper part of the bulb, for
it will there be completely exhausted by the
numerous roots produced from the lower part
of the stem. In this way clumps of this Lily
may often be kept in good condition for years,
provided they receivs proper attention. In
commencing with imported bulbs a good plan
is to obtain one's stock and get them all potted
by Christinas. As good bulbs of L. speciosum
can be obtained at a very cheap rate during the
dormant season, it his baen taken in hand by
some of our market growers, and about July
and August good examples of it may be seen
hawked about the streets, and it is also a
familiar object in the flower shops.

The Varieties

of L. speciosum, if one may judge by some
lists, are many, yet at the same time it must be
borne in mind that names are more numerous
than distinct forms, wdiile dealers are by no
means at one accord in this matter. Of those
with white flowers there are four distinct kinds,
viz., album, as grown by the Dutch,
but which, as far as 1 know, does
not occur among the Japanese im-
portations. The bulbs of album are,
as a rule, the darkest coloured of all,
while the leaves are also of a very
deep green, and the stems, leaf-stalks,
and exterior of the buds tinged with
chocolate. The interior of the flower
is, however, pure white, though after
it has been open for a day or two
there is sometimes just a suspicion
of pink. The variety Knetzeri, which
is the one white imported in quantity
from Japan, differs in many well-
marked features from the preceding.
The bulbs of Knetzeri are yellowish,
while the leaves are of a paler green
than those of the others. The petals
reflex in a very symmetrical manner,
and the interior of the flower is not
entirely white, as a greenish stripe,
which commences in the centre of
the bloom, extends about half-way
down the centre of each petal. The
anthers of this are browu, and con-
spicuous against the rest of the flower.
A second Japanese form is a very
scarce one, and only crops up occa-
sionally among importations of Knot
zeri, from which it principally differs
anthers being bright yellow. The
petals are thick and massive and the flowers
large, it being altogether a very desirable
form. This variety is generally known under
the name of album novum. The last of the
white flowers to mention is a crested form
of album. In this the stems are usually more
or less fasciated, and the flowers disposed in
a crowded cluster at the top. The individual
blooms are, however, small and of a poor
shape, so that it is by no means desirable.
Flowers with the petals more or less coloured
are very numerous, the best of all being that
usually met with in nurserymen's catalogues

under the name of Melpomene. It was at

time very scarce, but great numbers are now
sent here from Japan every year, either sepa-
rately or mixed with a good form of the variety
rubrum. All those bearing the varietal nam.' of
Melpomene are by no means of equal merit, but
the best form is characterised by very bio. el
leaves, especially towards the upper part of the
stem, and by dark, richly coloured blossoms,
whose petals are clearly edged with white. The
flowers of this are particularly symmetrical in
shape. In all stages of growth this can bz

the

20

THE GARDEN

[January 12, 1895.

picked out, for not only are the leaves very
broad, but the stems, leaf-stalks and flower-buds
axe all of a deep chocolate tint. Single bulbs
of this variety are more liable to produce two
or three shoots than the others are. Though
considerable numbers of Melpomene come here
from Japan, there is a second form which is
even more numerous. This is usually disposed
of under the varietal name of rubrum, and re-
presents a form much superior to that sent to
this country under the same name by the Dutch
cultivators, added to which many of the Japan-
ese bulbs are of enormous size. The confusion
that exists in the nomenclature of these coloured
varieties is to be accounted for to a certain ex-
tent by the fact that the different forms merge
into each other by almost imperceptible grada-
tions ; hence it has been suggested to bestow the
varietal name of rubrum upon that form in
which the stems and outside of the buds are
brownish, and classify those with green stems
under the head of roseum. This is impossible,
as many are about midway between the two,
and in some instances the flowers borne by the
dark-stemmed forms are paler than those of the
green ones. The fasciated form of rubrum
usually known as monstrosum is altogether a
poor plant. A distinct variety is punctatum,
less vigorous than the others, the flowers of
which are white, dotted with pink. The blooms
of this, especially when in the open ground,
often fail to open in a satisfactory manner.

H. P.

"Wintering Caladiums. — I quite agree with
" W. J. M." (p. 522) as to a good amount of heat
being essential to wintering Caladiums. I think,
generally speaking, that there is a mistaken im-
pression as to heat causing dry rot. During the
past nine years I have wintered very successfully
a good collection of the best varieties without a
failure. I stand the pots containing the bulbs on
a shelf in a plant stove, and, this being a lean-to,
the position is very dry and warm. I believe that
there are more failures from wintering in too low
a temperature than from any other cause. No
water is needed to keep the bulbs plump. — A.
Young.

Three good -winter-blooming zonals. —

The best winter-blooming Pelargonium is un-
doubtedly the popular Raspail and its improved
varieties. It blooms freely, and the colour is just
what is needed in the depth of winter. Excellent
companions to it are Mme. Thibaut and Guillon
Mangilli. The former affords an excellent con-
trast in colour, is remarkably free-blooming, and
is, indeed, one of the best all-round zonals we
have. Well-grown plants in 0-inch pots will
furnish a lot of bloom during winter and early
spring. Guillon Mangilli, quite an old kind,
suddenly came to the front a few years ago, but
even now it hardly gets so much attention as it
deserves. The flowers are very rich in colour,
and the trusses come very large on strong speci-
mens. This is the best zonal I have ever had to
do with, as it will expand its blooms fairly well in
the depth of winter, even in a cool house where
no more fire heat is used than will exclude frost.
—J. C. B.

Rivina humilis. — This Rivina is in no way
remarkable for foliage or flower, but the little
bright red berries which succeed the blossoms
render it very attractive when in the fruiting
stage. It is a slender growing subject, not at all
diflicult to cultivate, and may be either grown in
pots or planted out. For convenience of group-
ing it is generally grown in pots, sometimes
singly or at others three in a pot. If this latter
method is followed, and pots 0 inches or 7 inches
in diameter are employed, handsome little speci-
mens may be obtained, and when laden with their
drooping racemes of brightly coloured berries they
are really charming. Planted out, this Rivina
will acquire a rambling habit of growth, and soon

cover a considerable space. It is not a par-
ticularly vigorous rooting subject ; hence a
depth of soil of about a foot will bo sufficient.
Good drainage must be secured, and a compost
consisting of equal parts of loam and leaf-mould,
with a liberal amount of sand, will suit it well.
During the summer this Rivina forms a pretty
object in the greenhouse, but to be seen at its
best during autumn and winter it needs the tem-
perature of an intermediate house or the cool end
of the stove. Seeds afford a ready means of in-
crease, as young plants can be raised in quantity
in this way. There are two or three kinds, a
looser growing kind with yellow berries (flava)
yielding a pleasing variety. — H. P.

WINTER-BLOOMING BEGONIAS.

These are charming for the warm conservatory.
A group of insignis is very light and elegant, and
the flowers are fairly lasting and far more effec-
tive than the fashionable tuberous varieties with
the heavy cumbersome flowers. Size is not every-
thing ; lightness and grace will ultimately find
their true place. Then these small-flowered Be-
gonias are so easily grown. They make plenty of
cuttings, which strike freely in heat in spring,
and with fairly good warm frame culture till the
end of, June they may be grown intonice little speci-
mens in 0-inch pots. If larger specimens are re-
quired, three plants in an 8-inch or 9-inch pot will
produce them, or cut-down plants may be potted
on a second year, but in a general way after the
stock of cuttings has been secured, the old plants
may be planted out in the borders. Those who
have never tried these small-flowered Begonias
in a sheltered place outside will wonder why they
have been neglected so long. Give such kinds as
insignisandthevarious forms of semperflorens, niti-
da, Ingrami, fuchsioides, ascotensis, and Oarrieri a
sheltered, well-drained site, and they will make
charming masses in summer and early autumn ;
and if before frost comes they are lifted carefully,
they may be useful in the warm conservatory
during a good part of the winter. It is a good
plan to strike the cuttings as early in February as
possible, and not to crowd too many cuttings into
a pot. Single cuttings in 2i-inch pots would be
best, as then there is no disturbance of the roots.
The little plants when well rooted are simply
lifted out of the propagating bed, and when har-
dened a little are shifted on as they require
more root room. By this means every facility is
given to the bottom eyes to shoot out, and conse-
quently the plants get well furnished at the
bottom, which is not always the case when man}'
cuttings are crowded into a pot. If the plants are
intended for the open air, grow on till the end of
May and then harden off and plant out in the second
week in June. B. weltonierisis is a well-known
cottage window plant, and it also makes a pretty
group in the open air. This is a tuberous variety,
though distinct in character from the large-
flowered type. E. H.

LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA.

It is now over thirty years since this Libonia was
introduced from Brazil, and soon after that time
it became very popular indeed. I should think
it was more generallj- grown twenty years ago
than it is at the present da}-, though it certainly
is not superseded by any newer introductions.
Where a display of bloom (and that of as varied a
nature as possible) has to be kept up throughout
the winter, this Libonia readily lends itself for
the purpose, for with attention it will bloom for
months together, and that, too, during the dullest
period of the year. To have plants for blooming
in the winter different means are resorted to, for
by some cultivators they are planted out as Bou-
vardias at times are and lifted in the autumn.
This treatment is, however, in a general way
hardly to be recommended for the Libonia, as
with the check of lifting, the foliage is apt to
acquire a yellowish tinge, which it will frequently
retain throughout the rest of the season. To ob-

tain good flowering specimens the stock plants
intended for propagating from should, quite early
in the year, be placed in the temperature of an
intermediate house, and when the shoots then
produced are long enough, they should be taken
off as cuttings. The cuttings ,lo not take long to
root, and if the plants are grown on freely, using a
mixture of loam, manure and leaf mould, they
will about the beginning of June be fit for shift-
ing into pots 6 inches in diameter in which they
are to flower. When established in these pots
they are better outside, but care must be taken
that they do not suffer from want of water, other-
wise the foliage will soon <^et yellow. As the pots
get full of roots additional stimulants, in the shape
of liquid manure, will be of service, and weak
soot water will also tend to keep the foliage in
good condition. Grown in this way, plants of this
Libonia will in a warm greenhouse be objects of
beauty for a long time, their bright scarlet and
yellow blossoms being very conspicuous among
their associates. One frequently hears of many
greenhouse flowering plants refusing to bloom in
a satisfactory manner during the winter, most of
which is, I think, owing to the elastic way in
which the term "greenhouse" is applied, for by
some the word "greenhouse " indicates a structure
from which frost is just excluded and nothing
more ; whereas for flowering plants a gentle heat
is at all times necessary, say a minimum tempera-
ture of 50°. A plant weli worth growing with
this Libonia is Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana,
now included in that comprehensive genus
Jacobinia. The deep scarlet flowers of this Seri-
cographis in conjunction with its dark green
foliage form a verv attractive feature. H. P.

Anthuriums. — Although not numerous at
this season, the richly coloured blossoms of a few
Anthuriums form a showy mid-winter feature in
the stove, their value in this respect being still
further enhanced by the length of time they re-
main fresh and bright. The most noticeable of
all just now is a vivid coloured torm of A. Andre-
anum, by no means of good habit. The various
hybrids, in the production of which A. Andre-
anum has played a part, also flower more or less
in the winter, and their paler tints afford a pleas-
ing variety to the richly coloured flowers of A.
Andreanum. The first of these hybrids to which
attention was particularly directed is A. ferrier-
ense, raised between A. Andreanum and the
white-flowered A. ornatum. Since then a very
large number of varieties has been put into com-
merce, but many of them greatly resemble each
other. A. ferrierense has the flowers of a bright
rosy carmine colour, while varieties with salmon-
coloured spathes are also represented among
these numerous hybrids. The stout leathery
leaves of these hybrids of the A. ferrierense type
render them very ornamental from a foliage point
of view alone. Raising seedlings of these An-
thuriums is very easily carried out, and is a source
of considerable interest. A. Scherzerianum, too,
must be recognised at this season, for though
there is at present not a great wealth of blossoms,
yet their bright colour renders them very con-
spicuous.— T.

Wintering Cannas. — Some of the newer race
of Cannas, more particularly those with yellow
blossoms dotted with red, do not produce very
stout rhizomes, and if kept too dry during the
winter they are very apt to perish. Within the last
few years large quantities of Cannas have been
distributed by our nurserymen during the winter
months, as when dormant they can be readily sent
through the post. On receipt they should be at
once potted and placed under conditions favour-
able to growth, for if the rhizomes are bruised or
injured in any way they are very apt to decay if
kept out of the soil, but when potted, roots are
quickly produced and decay is at once arrested.
Those that are established in pots will keep well in
a greenhouse and with the soil in a slightly moist
condition. With a little additional heat, however,
Cannas may be had in flower nearly all the year
round, and as an illustration of their early flower-

Janoahy 12, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

21

ing qualities it may be mentioned that the
variety Alphonse Bouvier, which received an
award of merit three years ago, was so honoured
on January 12, so that the plants then shown
could not "have passed the winter in a dormant
condition. Where it is intended to cut up a
number of rhizomes for propagating, this is best
carried out just previous to potting, as if done and
the rhizomes allowed to remain out of the soil
decay is very apt to set in, commencing from the
cut portion. The first roots and the most vigor-
ous ones are produced from the upper part of the
rhizome just below the spot from whence the
leaves are pushed forth. — H. P.

ABUTILONS.
There are many varieties of Abutilon with yel-
low blossoms, but of all of them I prefer Golden
<i>ueen, a free-growing, free-blooming variety with
rather long flowers of a beautiful golden yellow.
It is a first-rate subject for winter blooming, for
where flowers have to be supplied at all seasons
some of the Abutilons are well-nigh indispensable.
As this variety is one of the best in its colour, so
the old white Boule de Neige still stands out as
unsurpassed among flowers of that tint. Boule
de Neige has been grown in our gardens for many
years, but I am unacquainted with its origin or
early history. By the intercrossing of this va-
riety and the brick-red Darwini, the numerous
forms that we have now in cultivation originated.
Of reds there are many varieties, and Royal
Scarlet, Firefly, and Scarlet Gem are all good.
Among those of a pink, rose, or light purple
shade, such as King of Roses, Anna Crozy, and
The Premier may be mentioned ; while among
striped flowers we have Abutilon striatum and
the large bold-growing A. venosum. A few years
ago two very dwarf varieties were put into com-
merce, but they were never much grown. They
were roseum compactuin and Vivid compactum,
both in their way very pretty. Of variegated-
foliaged forms there are several, some of which
are largely used for bedding out during the sum-
mer. Chief among these are Thompsoni, whose
leaves are mottled with a creamy tint ; Darwini
tessellatum, with yellow variegation, the arrange-
ment of which is well expressed by the varietal
name of tessellatum ; nsecium marmoratum, a
free-growing form whose leaves are marbled with
cream and light green ; Souvenir du Bonn, deeply
lobed leaves after the manner of A. striatum.
They are all broadly margined with white. An-
other newer form which is of Continental origin
is a good deal in the way of the last-named, but
the edging of white, or rather creamy white, is
very much deeper ; so much so, indeed, that in
many of the leaves the central green portion is
but a small part of the leaf. The slender rambling
growing A. vexillarium is also represented by a
variegated-leaved variety, but when growing
strongly this is very liable to revert to the ordi-
nary green-leaved form. The last to mention of
these variegated Abutilons is A. Sellowianum
variegatum, whose large, almost horizontally dis-
posed leaves are marked with a couple of tints of
green and pale yellow in varying proportions.
ne double-flowered form is in cultivation, vb. ,
A. Thompsoni flore-pleno, but it is to my mind
less pleasing than the single-flowered forms ; still
it is by some grown for the sake of variety. Given
a warm greenhouse during the winter, flowers of
Abutilons may be had nearly throughout the
year, for in the summer young plants in pots f>
inches or (i inches in diameter will flower freel}-,
while older specimens if planted in the open
ground will bloom for a lengthened period. As
wall or pillar plants many of the Abutilons are
very suitable, the more vigorous forms, such as
A. venosum, being best for lofty structures, while
most of the garden varieties will furnish pillars or
walls of mediu m height. A. vexillarium, whosesmall
brightly -coloured blossoms are supported in a
drooping manner by long footstalks, displays its
prominent characteristics when trained to a conser-
vatory or greenhouse roof, and out of doors at Kew
this species has, strange to say, passed through

several winters on a low wall in front of one of
the stoves.

All the species and varieties of Abutilon are
reidily propagated by means of cuttings, which
strike root very quickly, but where time and space
are at disposal, the raising of seedlings is an inte-
resting occupation, for they all hybridise readily,
and some very curious forms may be obtained.
The distinct A. insigne, with its striking crimson
blossoms, might (in conjunction with the garden
varieties and some of the most distinct species)
yield very interesting results. T.

Orchard and Fruit Garden,

SWEET CHERRIES.

Fully grown, perfectly ripened, sweet or dessert
Cherries are, comparatively speaking, a rarity.
Morello Cherries are plentiful enough in their
season, and what is the reason the sweeter
varieties are not equally so ? The reply, if given
generally, would in most cases be because the
birds prevent any from being profitably grown
in the open in all but well-tended orchards9

The Black Heart Cherry. Engraved for The
GARDEN [rom a photograph laj Mr. Norman
Make, Bedford.

while the amount of fish-netting necessary for
protecting fruit on the wall trees renders their
culture more expensive than desirable. Where
wall space is somewhat limited, I can un-
derstand why sweet Cherries find no jjlace, or
are only grown in very limited numbers, but in
the larger gardens neither this excuse nor that
of undue expense holds good. Those few who
do succeed well with choice Cherries do not
make the very common mistake of sticking in a
tree here anil there among Plum, Peach, and
other trees, but devote a good length of wall
wholly to them. In very hot and dry positions
the trees are particularly liable to be overrun
by black aphis, while the fruit fails to attain its
full size and richness of flavour during dry, hot
seasons, and the sunniest walls are, therefore,
more profitably devoted to Peaches, Nectarines,
and Apricots. Walls facing in either easterly or
westerly directions are most to be preferred,
and if any are grown against colder walls or
with the Morellos, the fruit produced will be
more remarkable for lateness and acidity than
for any good quality. The May Duke, which I
suppose must be included among sweet Cherries,

is, perhaps, an exception to the latter rule, very
acceptable crops being had from trees against
cool walls. Instead of dotting a few Cherry
trees among other kinds of fruit trees, group
them at one end, or, if it can be afforded, let
them have a short length of wall, this in either
case admitting of their being effectively netted,
as they must be, directly colouring of fruit com-
mences, or the birds will soon clear the trees.
As before hinted, it is next to useless to plant a
few single trees in the open, especially where
blackbirds and starlings abound, unless they
can be netted over, a by no means diffi-
cult undertaking when pyramids or bushes
are planted in rows alongside walks. The bulk,
or probably the whole of the fruit sent to the
markets is grown on standards in orchards,
and principally in Kent and Hertfordshire.
Some seasons they pay remarkably well, but
the fruit is very liable to crack wholesale on the
trees, so that Cherry growing must be regarded
as a lottery. In each and every case the finest
trees and best produce are to be seen on the
deep calcareous, loamy soils and in moderately
high positions. If, therefore, these conditions
are observed in private gardens generally, to
the extent even of largely substituting fresh
strong loam with mortar rubbish and sharp
sand or road grit freely mixed with it for the
ordinary garden soil, there is no good reason
why failures should occur.

The choice of suitable varieties is not so
limited as might appear to anyone who took
particular note of what are grown in the
various gardens in which Cherry trees find a
place. Authorities divide them into sections <>r
races. Thus there are Geans red and black,
Black Hearts and Red Hearts, or Bigarreaus,
and Griottes black and red. The Geans are
rigid and spreading in habit, and have long thin
leaves, while the fruit is obtuse, heart-shaped.
< )f the black varieties, Black Eagle and Early
Rivers are perhaps the best, Frogmore Early
being preferred of the red- fruited forms. The
Heart or heart-shaped section comprises several
very excellent and popular varieties. The trees
are of much the same habit of growth as the
Geans, and a good selection would consist of
Black Tartarian, Late Black, Elton, Bigarreau
Napoleon, and Governor Wood, with Florence
fur a late crop of fine, if not particularly richly-
flavoured fruit. The Griottes comprise the
popular May Duke and Late Duke, Reine
Hortense being also a worthy member of the
same family. The trees in these cases are of
stiff, upright habit of growth and have large
and broad leaves, while the crop is usually very
heavy. From the foregoing the following six
might be selected, and are given in their order
of ripening : Early Rivers, Governor Wood,
Black Tartarian ( Bedford Prolific, a good sub-
stitute), May Duke, Bigarreau Napoleon, and
Florence.

For walls, fan-shaped trees are most to hi
preferred, though stiff-growing Cherries succeed
well under either horizontal training or a modi-
fication of the two systems, fan-shaped trees
having their branches gradually brought to a
horizontal position. The stronger growing va-
rieties, or the Hearts and Bigarreaus, should be
allowed good room to grow, much-restricted
trees forming far too much breast-wood to be
productive. These, then, should be planted not
less than 24 feet apart, and if the walls are 12
feet and upwards in height, so much the better.
May Duke and varieties of similar habit of
<Towth may be planted 18 feet apart. Cordons,
though sometimes recommended, require to be
frequently root-pruned in order to check exube-
rant growth, and they then succeed fairly well.
These, if single, ought to be worked on the

22

THE GARDEN

[Januaby 12, 1895.

dwarfing or Mahaleb stock, and if single branche<l
be planted L8 inches apart, two or three branched

trees liaviug a width of 15 inches to 18 inches
allowed for each branch. These may be trained
either vertically or obliquely, the latter method
giving the greatest length of branch and the
lower parts of the tree get a greater share of the
sap than is the case with the upright trees.
Horizontally or espalier-trained trees are not
often seen in the open, but they succeed well
trained in that way and can be readily netted
over. Very handsome pyramids as well as
bushes can be formed, and these often crop sur-
prisingly well. For these, again, the Mahaleb
stock is to be preferred, and the distances apart
may vary from i) feet for the May Duke family
and 12 feet for the stronger growers generally.

A certain amount of rather hard pruning will
always be necessary for a time, or till a good
foundation is laid, but afterwards the leading
shojts should be reserved to their full length.
The more they are pruned the more strong wood
growth is formed ; whereas shoots left to their
entire length will flower sparingly perhaps the
next season and be wreathed in flower the second
spring following, a cluster of fruit-buds invari-
ably forming at the same joints in after years.
All superfluous summer growths ought to be
early stopped at the fifth or sixth joint and
the break from these at the first joint. Then if
shortened to 1 inch in length at the winter
pruning the fruit-buds at the base will open
strongly and be followed by clusters of fruit, the
foundation of what may be termed a good per-
manent fruiting spur being laid. When this
method of pruning does not answer well, owing,
it may be, to the trees not having sufficient
head-room, they ought to be treated similarly to
Morellos or Peaches, a moderate number of
young shoots being laid in during the summer
and reserved to their full length at the winter
pruning, all flowering with moderate freedom
the following summer. This necessitates cut-
ting out each winter much of the wood that has
only fruited once, while root-pruning should be
frequently practised when necessary to check a
too vigorous growth.

Cherries very rarely escape an attack of black
aphis, but early summer pruning or stopping,
followed by forcible syringings with first a de-
coction of soft soap and quassia chips and then
clear water, will usually get rid of this pest.
Without being particularly tender, Cherry blos-
som is yet frequently damaged by frosts ; hence
the wisdom of covering or protecting with
doubled fish-nets hung loosely over them. Thus
treated nearly every flower is followed by a fruit,
and in many cases the set of fruit is heavier than
should be left to ripen. Thinned out with
moderate freedom, all those reserved will attain
their full size and be richly flavoured, but when
all are left hanging some will fail to ripen and
the rest be of poor quality. Cherries should be
fully ripe before they are gathered — that is, if
their full flavour and richness are desired. It
is true keeping them thus long may mean the
loss of a considerable number from cracking,
this taking place in showery weather or when
the atmosphere is highly charged with moisture.
Both May Duke and Black Tartarian hang well
after they are ripe, and a good dish of the latter
has great weight in a collection of fruit in
August.

Cherries can be grown remarkably well under
glass, and bushes, either planted out or in pots,
present a most attractive appearance when the
fruit is ripe. The wonder is so few houses have
been put up for them. Hard forcing should not
be attempted, but they could yet be had by
gentle forcing ready for use late in April, a good
selection of varieties keeping up the supply till

late in June. If kept in pots the house could
be cleared in time for a good late crop of Toma-
toes to be had, the rest for the trees outside
being most desirable. W. I.

Peach Dymond. — I can fully corroborate
what " G. W. S."says at page 482 respecting this
fine Peach. It has not only size, colour and flavour
to recommend it, but a very hardy, free-bearing
constitution. It is a good open-air Peach and
does well in that position in this garden, ripening
in good time in August. It keeps longer after
being gathered than many sorts and travels well.
It may not be generally known that Dymond is a
capital forcer, ripening as soon as Stirling Castle,
and no doubt would succeed equally as well in
later houses. Mr. Coleman, of Eastnor, once told
me that if he were confined to one Peach and one
Nectarine for tub work he would choose Dymond
and Stanwick Elruge. — J. Crawford.

■ This Peach is recommended at page 539

by "W. G. C." for early forcing. I have had
it in quantity early in June, and this season I
hope to have it quite a month earlier. It is a
very valuable Peach either indoors or on walls.
Even this last summer I gathered fine fruits at
the end of August from young trees planted the
previous November. I do not know of a freer
growing variety, and when forced it sets very
freely. The summer of 1S93 was a grand one for
Peaches, and I find I gathered Dymond on August
10 from open walls without protection of any kind.
— W. S.

Flavour in Pears. — With me Doyenne" du
Cornice from pyramid trees was much richer in
flavour than the larger fruits from cordons, but
these latter were allowed to hang longer before being
gathered so as to lengthen the supply. I attribute
the difference to the extra time of hanging, as I
know by experience that mid-season Pears are de-
preciated in quality if left hanging too long. This
is especially noticeable with Louise Bonne of
Jersey and also the earlier Beurre d'Amanlis.
Some varieties of Pears are very much influenced
by soil and situation. The best Duchessed'Angou-
leme that I ever tasted was gathered from a tree
growing at Conway, in North Wales. The finest
flavoured Beurre Superfin I have tasted this sea-
son came from the late Dr. Roden's garden at
Kidderminster. — Y. A. H.

Peach Crimson Galande. — I was pleased to
see " W. G. C.'s" remarks on this Peach at p.
535, as I have found it excellent in every way and
very useful for forcing. This variety is well
adapted for early work. Where very hard forcing
is carried on I would prefer Early York, Early
Grosse Mignonne, Hale's Early or similar varie-
ties. I have found Crimson Galande most service-
able for dessert from about the middle of June.
The flavour is good and the fruits when well fed
attain a large size and are beautifully coloured.
Being a freestone adds to its other good quali-
ties. The growth is vigorous, and it does grandly
on a warm soil in the open. The flowers are
small, but they set freely. My experience with
this variety when hard forced is that it requires
more air when in bloom than some of the kinds.
This may not generally be the case with trees in
modern houses. — S. H. B.

Apples in poor soil. — With regard to dessert
kinds I have found King of the Pippins rarely fail
in any soil or locality, and though by some growers
it is considered of second-rate quality, I do not
class it as such, as, taking all points into con-
sideration, it is excellent in every way, a great
and certain cropper, and I have never known trees
to fail in any soil or locality where they had a
little care at the start. This variety I put at the
top of my list of dessert kinds tor poor soil.
Kerry Pippin is another old variety that rarely
fails to crop in any soil, and where early Apples
are required it is valuable. The well-known
Blenheim Orange is not fastidious as to soil when
the tree has attained a fair age. I admit in a
young state it is a shy bearer, but when older it
fruits grandly as a standard and in most localities.

Yellow Ingestre is a great cropper and rarely fails
Baumann's Red Reinette is likewise good, th
fruit very handsome and keeping well. Among
the cooking var eties there is a wider selection.
The Keswick Codlin rarely fails. To this should
be added Manks Codlin and Lord Grosvenor. Cel-
lini is a certain bearer in light soils, but not suit-
able for wet or clay land. Lane's Prince Albert
is a grand Apple and not particular as to soil or
locality. Lord Derby, Annie Elizabeth, Golden
Noble and Waltham Abbey Seedling are all suited
for light soils. Alfriston always does well, young
trees producing very fine fruits, which keep well
into the spring. The above is a select list of va-
rieties that I have found do well in poor soil with
no special treatment. — G. Wythes.

New Apple Armorel.— This is a valuable ad-
dition to the list of late dessert Apples. Armorel
is a good variety to follow Cox's Orange Pippin. It
may be had in good condititon well into May. It
is on account of its lateness that I send this note,
as though we have Apples in great variety, we
have only a few really good late dessert kinds at
the time noted above. I saw this variety doing
well in bush form last summer, very small trees
cropping freely. It was raised by Mr. Ross, of
Welford Park, who thinks it one of his best seed-
lings, and it has received the highest award of the
Royal Horticultural Society. — G. W.

THE FUTURE OF HARDY FRUIT
CULTURE.*

In face of the agricultural depression and the
problem of how to make the land pay, we may
take a glimpse of what the prospects of hardy
fruit growing for profit are likely to be in the
future. The Apple is acknowledged to be the
king of British fruits, and has received more
attention in consequence than any other kind.
Plums and Pears are perhaps next to Apples in
importance, but unless the soil and situation
are very favourable, I would not plant Pears,
as they are too uncertain and more liable to
injury from climatic changes. My experience
is that both Apples and Plums are far more
profitable planted and grown under the same
conditions. In bush fruits and Strawberries
we find the acreage increasing rapidly, and pro-
bably the number of varieties of each kind
will be reduced in the future, as there are only a
few sorts of each that will give handsome re-
turns. Take Gooseberries as a case in point.
We are forced to rely on such varieties as Whin-
ham's Industry and Keepsake for early picking.
Immense quantities of trees have been planted
of late years on a system that is neither the
most profitable nor best. If we must compete
successfully with the foreigner in the future we
must alter our methods, not only in the form of
trees, but also in the selection of varieties,
grading, insect destroying, manuring, pruning,
and last, but by no means least, given an equal
chance with the foreigner in railway rates.

Form of Trees.

It is high time that fruit growers should
abandon the standard and only plant dwarf
trees, which can be pruned, sprayed with reliable
insecticides, and the fruit gathered from the
ground. Instead of waiting twelve or fourteen
years a profitable crop may be reasonably looked
for the second year after planting dwarf trees,
and, being low, they are not exposed to gales,
with their disastrous effects to the fruit, and the
branches are not broken by ladders, as in
standards. These are a few of the advantages
of the dwarf form of tree, and when such are
fully recognised by planters I believe it will be
the tree of the future.

* Paper read by Mr. S. T. Wright, Glewston Court
Gardens, at the Hereford fruit conference, November
15, 1894.

January 12, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

23

Grading the Fruit.

Of all things connected with fruit culture, I
question if anything reflects so much discredit
on the home grower as the way in which our
fruit is consigned to market. To prove this it
is only necessary to visit any of our chief
markets in the season and note the slovenly
way in which Apples are placed in baskets or
other packages. It is very seldom that any
care is exercised in the grading ; large and small
are bundled together until the basket is nearly
tilled ; it is then topped up with some of the
finest fruit and put on the market. This is a
grave scandal, as it is not honest, and is a deli-
berate attempt to deceive the purchaser, bring-
ing general discredit on the English fruit
grower. I had a strong proof of this in Edin-
burgh at the time of the International Horti-
cultural Exhibition there in 1801 ; fruiterers
there declined to buy English Apples because
of what they justly termed " rascally packing."
If we must meet the foreigner on equal terms
in our markets, it is essential that we grade
and pack our fruit as well, if not better than he
does, and until this is done he will always have
a large share in our business. At nearly all
these fruit conferences great stress is laid upon
the poiut of improved modes of packing, but so
far little good appears to have resulted from
the advice given. The comparatively few who
do pack their Apples, &c, well can testify in
emphatic terms how much they gain by their
care and honesty. Every grower of fruit in
bulk acquires a reputation in the market, and
what that reputation is depends entirely upon
the man himself.

Insect Destruction.

As a body we are miles, as it were, behind our
American and Canadian cousins in dealing with
insect foes, and if we are to hold our own
in the future, increased vigilance and attention
to this matter will be a necessity. If the Hop
growers of this country were to neglect the
spraying and washing processes requisite to keep
the plants clean, in the majority of instances the
Hops would be conspicuous by their absence, and
if this is true about Hops, it is equally important
about fruit trees. Unfortuuately, I have had
some extremely disagreeable experience with
insect foes, having had the trees under my
charge bare of leaves and fruit in June through
their ravages, but, thanks to the improvement in
insecticides and the increase in knowledge of
how to combat the enemies, we can keep them
somewhat under control. In this dealing with
insect pests we want a more united action
amongst fruit growers whose fruit plantations
adjoin each other ; each one should do his ut-
most to spare none. If this were done through-
out the country, future prospects would be much
brighter and a vast amount of labour and
anxiety done away with. At present if one man
destroys all the caterpillars, aphis, &c, that
may infest his trees, his next neighbour does
nothing, thus providing a fresh stock for the
industrious grower to fight against, and forcing
him to battle annually to preserve his crops.

Manuring.

Already great strides have been taken in our
knowledge of chemical manures, and there is not
the least doubt that the fruit grower in the near
future will be able to do infinitely more by their
aid than is possible at present. Soils vary so
much in character, that what may prove of the
highest service at one place may be practically
useless at another. On light land we find potash
lacking, and as this enters largely into most
fruits, an application of potash in some form or
other exercises a marked beneficial influence.

On heavy soils I think bone-meal has no equal,
as it lasts some time in the soil, promoting a
short sturdy growth and giving extra size and
finish to the fruit. There are several first-class
artificial manures, more or less suited to all
soils, but which can only be determined by
actual experience and a knowledge of the soil.
While advocating the judicious employment of
reliable chemical manures, we must not lose
sight of natural manures close to our hands.
One of the most valuable fertilisers from the
farmyard is in the majority of places almost
totally neglected, viz., the liquid clrainings from
cattle sheds and manure heaps ; this is more
powerful and immediate in its action than
solid manures, and has a wonderful effect
on the vigour of the trees and the size of
the fruit, yet we see it treated as a nuisance
on every hand. The object apparently is to get
it away from the premises in as expeditious a
manner as possible byway of ditches, brooks,
or other available means. This ought not
to be, and we may hope that such a cheap
stimulant may be employed in our orchards to
a much greater extent than now. Sewage,
again, if put amongst the trees in winter would
improve the appearance of the orchards, and
pay over and over again for the labour incurred
by the enhanced value of the fruit.

Pruning.

On this point opinions differ to a great ex-
tent, but the object of all is to get the greatest
quantity of fruit of the largest size. In the
past the knife has been used too much as a
mutilator rather than as a primer, the conse-
quence being that more wood than fruit has
been in evidence. Experience has proved that
the knife should be employed only to remove
weak and useless wood and to thin out the
shoots, that each one may have sufficient light
to ripen and properly mature its buds, leaving
tin isc that remain nearly their full length where
possible, and, unless the seasons are very un-
favourable, excellent crops will be the result.
All old systems die hard, but I think in the
future much less pruning will be done and
heavier crops produced.

Railway- Rates.

So long as the foreigner has the preferential
rates for his fruit, the home grower will be
seriously handicapped. I think nothing is more
absurd than the fact that British capital has
been spent in making our railways, and yet the
Britisher has to play second fiddle to the
foreigner, who has done nothing towards the
making of the lines, &c. I question if any
other body of traders would be allowed to tax
the public so severely as the various railway
companies do the home producer by their heavier
charges. I do not intend going into figures to
show the difl'erence in favour of the foreigner, but
I may state that in some cases the Englishman
has to pay over 200 per cent, more for the same
class of goods when carried the same distance. Is
this fair '. While kicking against these excessive
charges, we do not want the railway companies
to carry our goods at a loss, but only require
them to put us on an equal footing with our
rivals. On those conditions I feel sure that the
British fruit grower will be able to hold his own
against any competition from all parts of the,
world, provided the business is conducted with
vigour and on sound principles.

Apple Bismarck.—" W. G. C." (p. 481) asks
for information as to the behaviour of Bismarck
Apple in different localities, and also mentions
that some growers give it a bad character on
account of its pi-oneness to canker with them. I
have just looked over about 150 Bismarcks on the

English Paradise stock, two, three, and four years
old from the graft, and have found no sign of
canker on them, though other varieties of the
same age are cankering rather badly. Three
years ago I planted as an experiment thirteen
four-year-old Apples on the Paradise. The ground
is heavy, but the trees have lacked no attention
since their planting, at which time they were
clean, wellgrown bushes. Pott's Seedling is nearly
dead from canker, which has attacked every
branch, and King of Tompkins County is in almost
as bad a plight. Cox's Pomona, Cox's Orange,
Stirling Castle, and Lady Sudeley have all can-
kered, but have made good growth this year not-
withstanding, and have also fruited well. Lane's
Prince Albert and Blenheim Orange show symp-
toms of the disease, while Bismarck, Peasgood's
Nonsuch, Warner's King, Bramley's Seedling and
Duchess of Oldenburg are all healthy, the last be-
ing in the pink of condition and as near perfec-
tion as possible. As far as my experience goes,
therefore, it would appear that Bismarck, at all
events in this district, is not so subject to canker
as many other varieties. It has seemed to me
that Apples on the Paradise are more liable to
canker than those on the Crab stock, but I am
told by a large grower that his experience has
been that the reverse is the case. — S. W. F., Tor-
quay.

Grapes cracking.—" .]. C. B." (p. 495) says
"growers of Grapes do not seem to be quite
agreed as to the cause of cracking.'' The experi-
ence of "J. C. B." as to dryness of the soil in his
case is, I have not the least doubt, perfectly cor-
rect, although I must confess it is the first case
I ever heard of Alicante being addicted to crack-
ing, but the over-dryness explains it. The variety
with which I ever had any trouble is Madresfield
Court, but not of late years, as I have proved that
cracking may be caused by sudden fluctuations of
temperature, which I now prevent. My experience
with this Grape is, that when the berries commence
tht ir second swelling and also commence colouring,
if the ventilators are closed so early in the afternoon
as to cause a sudden rise of the temperature, or kept
too close in the morning before the ventilation is
increased, cracking will take place. I am also of
the opinion that if the berries are not thinned
sufficiently, cracking is further aggravated. Under
high culture the berries swell up enormously, bat
if this is anticipated at thinning time, cracking
from this cause will be prevented. As a rule, I
do not think the berries of this Grape are thinned
out nearly enough. With a little warmth con-
tinually in the pipes — a limit, of course, being
allowed during the hottest part of the day— with
a free circulation of air, cracking will be pre-
vented.— A. Young.

THE REPLANTING OF WALL TREES.

As the theory and practice of root culture become
better understood it is probable that most fruit
trees — on walls at least — will be planted a second
time, about a year after the first. This is likely
to keep the roots in the best place for the produc-
tion of fruit-buds and also to mould them into the
best form. The form of wall trees and the limited
areas of their tops in contrast with those of stan-
dards, bushes and pyramids render their replant-
ing or root-pruning more important. The chief
dangers of young wall trees in favourable soils
arise from over-luxuiiance. This has been fostered
from their youth up by concentration of force
alike in root and top. The latter favours the
rushing up of trees to saleable condition. Now
one stopping of roots in the process of removal or
planting does not suffice to eradicate the strong-
growing habit. On the contrary, the first breaks
on such roots will partake of the character of
their immediate progenitors. The first roots after
permanent planting often break away as strongly
as those of the original maidens, and this natural
excess of vigour at the roots is the parent of the
sterile growths that crowd the tops of young wall
trees with sappy wood that cannot possibly re-
spond promptly with full crops of fruit of fine

24

THrt r.ARDEN

[Jaxuart 12 18'J5

quality. By carefully replanting trees a second
time the roots will be led or gently forced into
fruitful form.

Once trees are thoroughly established on these
lines the annual crops of fruit mostly suffice to
keep them on fruitful lines. However, another
great advantage of a second planting is the estab-
lishment of what may be called with little or no
exaggeration a semi-portable and intensely fertile
character of root. Those possessing extensive
experience in the raising and training of young
trees are aware how tractable the roots are. After
a few removals the trees are but little inconveni-
enced by root-lifting or replanting. Some culti-
vators go further, and assert that the trees thrive
best through removal. Be that as it may, it is
certain that such root-detachment and disturbance
favour the highest possible degree of fertility.

D. T. F.

The wild Medlar.— Will any reader of The
Garden kindly tell me where I may procure plants
of the wild Medlar or seedling plants of any kind
of Medlar ? I should also like much to know
something about the distribution and habit of the
Medlar in our country. — R. R.

Peach. Dr. Hogg.— I note that " W. G. C."
(p. 53.")) has a good word to say for this variety as
being excellent for early forcing. I have not tried
it for early forcing, but during the past nine
years it has with me proved admirable in every
way on the open wall. It is a very free setter, of
good appearance, and most excellent flavour. I
rind it a reliable variety for open-air culture, and
am glad to hear that it is equally so for early forc-
ing.—Y. A. H.

Apple Cox's Orange Pippin. — It is unfortu-
nate that this Apple will not succeed on all soils,
and I think anyone who has had any experience of
it will agree with " E. H." that it will not thrive
on a damp, adhesive soil. The ideal soil for this
Apple is a deep fertile loam with a dry subsoil,
and if not so naturally it should be made so by
draining. When I first came here I planted a
quantity, but the ground, I find, is too cold. I have
replanted the trees on raised stations, hoping that
by this method they will succeed. In selecting
Apples for special soils it is very often not a ques-
tion of what we should like, but what will succeed.
— Y. A. H.

KEEPING FRUIT TREES APART FROM
VEGETABLES.

The short extract in the last volume of The
Garden (p. 535) on the desirability of keeping
vegetables apart from fruit trees I entirely
agree with. In many cases unfruitfulness
amongst fruit trees can be distinctly traced to
the system of cultivating the two in too close
proximity to each other. Want of space is often
given as the cause of this dual culture, but it is
rather the outcome of an old custom. It is not
even picturesque, for a garden with the trees
scattered all about the vegetable quarters as well
as along the walks has a very untidy appearance.
The vegetables, again, are deprived of that very
essential element to high culture, i.t., direct sun-
light. Winter vegetables become drawn and are
quite unable to bear the strain of a prolonged
frost, and it is in those crowded gardens that such
wholesale destruction takes place. Neither is it
economical, for if ordinary care is taken when
planning a garden to keep the fruit trees and
bushes apart from vegetables, there will not be
any space wasted, and each may have the culture
which is necessary to ensure both good fruit and
vegetables.

One of the greatest mistakes in fruit culture —
that is if the most successful results are expected
— is to deeply fork or dig over the ground within
radius of the roots. A loose surface soil in itself
is injurious enough, as fresh roots do not take
readily to it ; but the forking over destroys the
surface roots and drives the lower roots down-
wards into what is very often a crude subsoil.
On a heavy clay land I have to be most care-
ful in this respect, as the nearer the roots are to

he surface the better, so that they may receive
the full benefit of sun heat. I have a long row of
bush Cherries, and since they were planted, up-
wards of nine years ago, the surface soil has not
been disturbed, and a forkful of soil within a radius
of 10 feet could not be turned up without tearing
up roots. These trees fruit abundantly and are
never subject to gumming. In the case of bush
Apples and Pears the soil only needs to be just
pointed over, the manure, if this should be stable
or farmyard, being just covered. I daresay the
unfruitfulness of so many wall trees as seen now-
adays is due to digging too near the wall. The
space left should be quite 5 feet or 6 feet wide, and
the borders containing the roots of trees growing
against north walls are best left intact if the
space can possibly be spared. Y'. A. H.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 996.

ALTHAEAS.

(with a coloured plate of a. ficifolia.*)

In a comparatively recent monograph of the
natural order Malvacere, Mr. E. G. Baker, of the

Altluva officinalis.

British Museum, enumerates over thirty species
of Altluva. A small proportion only of these —
perhaps some eight or ten species— are known
in cultivation, and these are mostly confined to
purely botanical collections. Were it not that
the genus includes the plant from which the
garden Hollyhock has sprung — Althoea rosea —
it would be, so far as the majority of gardens are

* Drawn for The Garden in the Uoyal Carders,
Kew, by H. G. Moon. Lithographed and printed by
Guillaume Severeyns.

concerned, an obscure and neglected genus. The
Althjeas are widely spread over Europe and Asia,
and one species has been in cultivation that is
found in the Caribbean Islands, two occur in
Britain, and others have been introduced from
Siberia and Northern India. The genus is, how-
ever, most abundantly represented in the region
of the Grecian Archipelago and Asia Minor.
The Althaeas are nearly related to the Malvas,
the chief botanical distinction being in the
structure of the calyx. They are all herbaceous,
some having annual or biennial, others perennial
rootstocks. The Hollyhock may, in habit, be
taken as characteristic of the genus, the stems
being erect, varying in different species from
1 foot to 10 feet in height and furnished with
large, usually palmate leaves. That the genus,
as a whole, is not so much in favour with horti-
culturists as its merits entitle it to be is, l'think,
forcibly illustrated by the coloured plate pub-
lished herewith, for Altbsea ficifolia, although
it has been in cultivation in this country close
upon 300 years, shares to a considerable extent
the general neglect of the Althasas. The larger
proportion of the genus, however (or even of the
species now in cultivation) cannot be said to be
as worthy of so prominent a place in the garden
as A. ficifolia. At the same time they are ad-
mirable subjects for planting at the back
of wide borders and in open spaces in the
semi-wild, partially wooded tracts of ground
that so frequently surround gardens. In such
positions naturally disposed groups if given
fairly good soil and allowed sufficient space
between the trees to admit sunlight, make
striking features with tbeir tall flower-stems,
bright colours and large leaves. That there are
few things which respond more readily to the
gardener's ait than these plants do is shown by
what has been done in developing the Holly-
hock from the wild A. losea, and now that the
.disease has practically swept away the mag-
nificent varieties which twenty or thirty years
ago were the pride of hundreds of gardens —
cottage and mansion — it might be worth while
to take in hand and improve the best of the
wild types of Altlnea.

The perennial kinds can be propagated by
dividing the plants or by seeds ; ihe annual
and biennial ones, of course, by seeds alone. It
is best to sow the seed in February in pans kept
in an unheated frame, planting the seedlings
when large enough where they are required to be
grown. If the wtather does not prove showery
after planting, the plants should be watered a
few times, after which they will require but
little attention.

A. ficifolia (the Fig-leaved or Antwerp Holly-
hock).— This species, perhaps the finest of all the
Altlnvas, is nearly allied to A. rosea. In the
opinion of Dr. Stapf, of the Kew Herbarium, who
has lived and studied for a long time in the East,
it may have been derived from it by cultivation.
It is a plant which varies considerably, the height
ranging from 2 feet to 5 feet and the colour from
purple to yellow-. It is, however, as a yellow or
orange-coloured species that we know it in this
country. The plant here depicted is a very fine
form, which flowered in the herbaceous ground at
Kew last July. It was from 4 feet to 5 feet high
and bore a large terminal spike of flowers, each
flower measuring 3 inches to 4 inches in diameter
and being of a pale yellow colour, flushed with
rose. The leaves are large, palmate, five to seven-
lobed, differing chiefly from those of A. rosea in
their narrow lobing. A. ficifolia is worthy of a
place in the most select of herbaceous borders.
Its native country is not certainly known. It is
often given as Siberia, but Dr. Stapf thinks the
species originated most probably in North-west
Persia. A. ficifolia was known under cultivation
as far back as 1 S97. The variety glabrata is a
smaller form.

<-"%»

Januahy 12, It 95.]

THE GARDEN

25

A. rosea. — This, the type or parent form of our
cultivated Hollyhocks, is said to have been origin-
ally introduced to this country from China in
1753. Whether it is truly a native of that country
is perhaps doubtful ; at any rate we know that it
is abundant in Greece and other parts of the
Mediterranean region. It grows to a height of
8 feet, the stem being furnished with large, cor-
date, five to seven-lobed leaves. The flowers are

The double-flowered Hollyhock {Althaea rosea fl. -pi.)

rosecoloure 1, measure ." inches to 4 inches across,
the pale yellow centre being oil en surrounded by
a black-purple ring. It commences to blossom in
June and continues right into autumn. This de-
scription, of course, ap lies only to the typical
form of the wild Hollyhock, itse a most variable
plant. From it have been aised by selection and
hybridisation numerous and beautiful varieties
more or less double, and ranging in colour from
pure white to deep yellow or rich crimson. The
palmy days of the fine Hollyhocks, however, are
for the present over, and the glorious colour
effects they produced in gardens throughout the
country twenty-five years ago are now only to be
seen in places few and far between. This, as is
well known, is due to the ravages of the Holly-
hock fungus (Puccinia malvaeearum), which is
believed to be a native of Chili. It first showed
itself in Europe in the year 1869, and in 1873-4
spread over the Continent, and made a clean sweep
of all the carefully raised varieties whose high
cultivation no doubt had rendered them particu-
larly favourable for the attacks of this fungoid
parasite. As was the case with the Potato dis-
ease, its virulence, which at first carried all
before it, has in late years somewhat abated, and
it is possible that the future may see some at any

rate of the former glory of the Hollyhock re-
stored.

A. officinalis (the Marsh Mallow).— This is
one of our two British species, and is more espe-
cially common near the sea and salt marshes.
Favourite districts are the fen lands of Lincoln-
shire and Cambridgeshire, on the banks of the
artificial ditches and canals by which the flat
lands of these counties are intersected. It attains
a height of 2 feet to 4 feet, and has soft velvety
leaves covered with a grey pubescence, and
flowers of a delicate pink hue measuring 1^ inches
to 2 inches across. In the old herbals it is accre-
dited with many medicinal virtues. It is a peren-
nial plant.

A. hirsuta is the other British species, and is
found wild in the woods and fields of North
Somerset. Its slender erect stems are G inches to
IS inches high ; its leaves are reniform with long
petioles, and its flowers are rosy purple and 1
inch in diameter. It is an annual. Some doubt
has been expressed as to whether it is a truly indi-
genous plant, but if not, it has been naturalised
for a sufficiently lengthy period to have become
to all intents a British plant.

A. cannabisa. — This species is a native of
Southern France and Spain, spreading eastwards
to Persia. It is a perennial, and is 6 feet high,
having large palmate leaves with narrow lobes
and coarsely toothed margins. The flowers are
rose coloured.

A. iarih.ka is, as its name implies, a native of
the Caribbee Islands, having been introduced
from there in 1816. Its flowers are produced on
very short stalks, and are rose coloured with yellow
centres. Whether it is now in cultivation is
doubtful. It was figured in the Botanical Magazim ,
t. 11116, and is probably not hardy.

A. narbonensis grows from 3 feet to 6 feet
high and has pubescent, three to seven-lobed leaves,
the lobes being crenulated. The flowers are from
1 inch to 2 inches in diameter and of a pale purple
colour. It is a native of France.

The nomenclature of these Althaeas is very
much involved, many of the species being sub-
ject to great variation and running one into the
other by intermediate gradations. The follow-
ing may be briefly mentioned as being either
now or a short time ago in cultivation : A.
Fmloviana, a useful species flowering from
August to October, tall in habit, and having
orange-coloured flowers shaded with red ; A.
lavateraefolia, a native of Syria, with flowers
near those of A. narbonensis, but of a deeper
purple colour ; A. Hildebraudti, 5 feet high,
with white flowers, changing to pale yellow near
the centre, and meisuring 3 inches across ; A.
striata is another white-flowered kind ; A. flexu-
osa is a North Indian species, probably tender,
growing 2 feet to 3 feet high, and having large
deep red flowers. The Syrian Hibiscus (H.
syriacus), a shrubby plant, of which many single
and double varieties are in gardens, is very fre-
cp-iently grown as Altluea frutex. B.

The Week's Work.

FRUIT HOUSES.
Earliest Peaches. — The American varieties
grown either in a separate compartment or isolated
amongst other sorts and started in the middle of
November will by this time be expanding their
blooms, those of Amsden June, where grown,
being fully open. This stage being reached, both
the night and day temperatures must be increased
somewhat, whether the weather is frosty or not,
as Peaches in bloom at this season are favoured
with few natural advantages, and the deficiency
must be made up by artificial means. During
absence of frost a night figure of 55° may be
allowed, but if on cold nights the mercury falls to
53° by morning, no harm will result provided the
houce is not too moist and the trees not trained

too near the glass. A most important point with
these early Peaches is fertilisation, which must be
carried out daily, advantage being taken of
gleams of sunshine to admit just a little air and
secure a dry pollen by midday. Different growers
employ different mediums for dispersing the
pollen, the camel's-hair brush and rabbit's tail
both finding favour ; but if the trees are in gooil
health and the fertilising organs strong, nothing
supersedes the old-fashioned plan of moving a
straw hat to and fro immediately beneath the
trellis. Where there is a superabundance of
bloom buds, most of those located on the under-
side of the trellis may I e removed before expand-
ing by drawing the hand in a downward direction.
Any malformed blooms should likewise be re-
moved. The oft-advised plan of fumigating the
house as soon as the first pink petal appears must
in no case be neglected, or green-fly may be found
to have gained a footing at a time when insecti-
cides must not be employed and curled leaves and
fallen blossom be the inevitable penalty. If the
trees were watered on the near approach of the
blooms opening, no more will be needed until the
fruit is set, but where the trees are growing in
tubs or cramped and shallow borders, a further
supply of moisture must be given. Injury to the
blooms from surface moisture may be avoided by
simply applying half an inch of perfectly dry soil,
the same being removed in due time. Husband
all sun-heat possible by closing the ventilators
early, and bear in mind that the most fatal error
in Peach forcing is attempting to hurry on the
crop before the fruit has stoned. Where the ear-
liest forced Peaches are grown in pots, these of

The simjle-flowcred Hollyhock (Althcea rosea

course must be watered from time to time even
when in flower, but if this is always done early in
thj day, and as far as can be during sunshine, by
opening the front lights half an inch a slight cur-
rent of air is produced without actual draught
and the surface soil of the pots speedily becomes
dry.

Pot Vines. — In many instances growth will
now be 1 inch or more long, and the rods require

26

THE GARDEN

[January 12, 1895.

to be brought up into their final position and
secured to the wires. Disbudding, now that the
bunches can be well discerned, may also be done,
selecting the most promising and removing the
more feeble where this can be done without
creating irregularities. Towards the lower por-
tion ot the rods, however, where weaker breaks
abound, a greater percentage of growths may be
left, the better to draw the sap to that point and
strengthen and improve the bunches. No rigid
law can be laid down for stopping, so much de-
pending on the strength of the individual growths
those at the top of the rods generally being best
stopped at two joints beyond the bunch, weaker
shoots lower down benefiting from a run of four
or even five leaves. The stored-up sap will now
soon become exhausted and the call for a further
supply be responded to by the formation of new-
roots. The balls at this juncture need special
attention, as dryness or wetness proves fatal to all
further progress ; the happy medium is the only
safe condition. On bright warm days a dewing
over with the syringe may be administered for
some time longer, especially if cold nights neces-
sitate hot pipes and a somewhat arid atmosphere
at daybreak. Where blinds are used on the roof
glass i would advise their use even for a few hours
during daylight in times of sweeping gales and
searching winds, especially in exposed situations.
The trellises in early Vine pits and houses being
generally none too tar from the glass, it is a good
plan to leave the ligatures sufficiently long to
allow of the rods falling a few inches below
them ; even this will permit of the laterals
being secured to the wires. Continue the
sprinkling of floors at intervals, according to
the presence or absence of sun, and admit no air
through January unless the mercury runs up
beyond 75°. Primings of old Vines wanted for
bottle grafting later on should be duly labelled
and inserted into pots of soil, storing them away
in a cold greenhouse or orchard house. Vine eyes
may now be inserted either in small pots or pieces
of turf covered with river or silver sand, and placed
in a cold frame to callus by the time they are
placed in heat in February. Vines in pots in-
tended for inarching may now be removed to the
early house and placed on slates over the hot-
water pipes.

Planting Filberts and Cobs. — These are
worthy more care and attention than are generally
bestowed on them. An open site, soil of a fairly
sustaining nature, and liberal mulchings in spring
are not lost on the trees, liberal thinning, es-
pecially of the centres of the trees, resulting in
far heavier crops than can be secured by the old
thicket plan. The ground should be well trenched
and plenty of manure worked in, firm treading
also being necessary before planting the trees.

Damsons. — These are too often neglected,
which is strange, considering how well they pay.
Where practicable, avoid planting on exactly the
same spot, but where this cannot be helped, a
good cart-load at least of fresh holding loamy
soil should be substituted for the old worn-out
compost. Damsons do not object to partial
shade, but the best crops are obtained where a
maximum of sun and light reaches the trees.
After planting, mulch, and, unless in exception-
ally sheltered places, stake for the first season at
least. No better or more .profitable Damsons
exist than the Farleigh Prolific and Old Shrop-
shire. J. Crawford.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

French Beans. — There will be no fear of dwarf
Beans sown at this date not podding freely if atten-
tion be paid to heat and moisture. A regular
supply may be kept up by sowing every three
weeks according to the demand. French Beans
can often be grown in pots on shelves when space
cannot otherwise be found. Now is a good time
to make a start, as the Beans set more freely witli
longer days and more sun. To get the best results
a light position, such as a shelf in a Cucumber
house, will answer well. Good results are secured
from small pots at this time of year. I find 0-inch

pots useful for the early lots, but much depends
upon the space at command. Three plants in a 6-
ineh pot will give a fair crop, but if 8-inch or 9-
inch pots are used, five or six plants will be suffi-
cient. The old system of partially filling the pots
with soil when sowing and top-dressing when the
plants have attained a fair size I do not advise, as
the surface roots have no time to lay hold of the
new soil. The new soil holds the moisture longer
than that full of roots, making it a difficult matter
to water properly. Much better results are se-
cured by filling tiie pots nearly full and giving
supplies of food later on in a liquid state. If the
pots can be given bottom-heat or placed over
warm pipes germination is more, rapid and a
stronger plant secured, slow germination in damp
soil being the cause of decay of seed. In no case
should water be given till the plants push through
the soil. Now is a good time to prepare a pit or
warm frame for this crop. A good return is
assured if a bottom-heat of 70° can be given. The
soil should be placed in position, mixing some old
Mushroom manure with it, and by the end of the
month it will be in condition to plant. A depth
of from 9 inches to 12 inches will be sufficient. I
advise sowing the seed in 3-inch pots and planting
out in preference to sowing in the bed. When
planting make firm, and b)' keeping the plants
clean two or three crops may be secured by top-
dressing, stopping, and feeding. Ne Plus Ultra,
Mohawk and Syon House are all reliable at this
season for pot or frame culture.

Planting Potatoes in frames and pots. — If
the sets have been prepared as previously advised,
they will now be in condition for planting. The
soil should be warm and not too moist, so that in
planting, the sets may be made firm and the fibrous
roots spread out as the work proceeds. I attach
great importance to planting prepared sets, as if
merely placed in holes in moist soil the roots are
cramped and do not spread out well, with the
result that only one or two tubers are made, with
a mass of small or later ones of no use whatever.
It is best to plant with a trowel, and if the soil is
at all clayey or wet to place some finer material
round the sets to assist the tender roots to lay
hold of the soil. If planted with care out of boxes,
with a mass of fibrous roots and the sprouts or
tops 2 inches or 3 inches long, there will be no
difficulty in getting good dishes in three months
if there is no check of any kind. Give ample
supplies of air in fine weather to prevent drawing,
with occasional waterings of liquid manure as
top growth increases. When placing the soil in
frames for planting it is not wise to err in giving
too little. Much the same remarks apply to the
culture of Potatoes in pots.

Seakale. — This vegetable will now come in
even more useful than earlier in the winter. The
weather having been mild, there has been no lack
of good vegetables, this to a great extent saving
the forcing supplies. If the Seakale grown
specially for forcing has not yet been all lifted
there should be no further delay, as it often hap-
pens we get a sharp frost when least expected.
By lifting, laying in soil, and covering with litter,
it is easy to get at the crowns when required.

Asparagus. — Another lot of roots should be
lifted if a supply is wanted at a certain date.
From good roots lifted and placed in a genial
temperature a supply may be had in three weeks,
as the roots will force more readily now than when
I last advised forcing lifted roots. Much the same
routine must be followed as advised earlier. If a
pit heated with hot water can be spared, there is
no difficulty in getting regular supplies. If the
heating agency is stable manure, it is well to
incorporate a liberal quantity of leaves with the
manure to prevent a violent heat. A steady heat
will produce finer heads and of good quality if a
liberal amount of air is given in mild weather
and plenty of light. I noted the importance of
forcing permanent beds, and the best means to
produce strong growths from the end of February
or earlier. Now is a good time to commence
forcing in the open, and to get the alleys or space
between the beds cleared out to make room for
the forcing material.

Rhubarb. — This will be in demand from thi9
date, and if a good stock is grown there need be
no break in the supply. I noted the importance
of lifting a good quantity of roots in advance,
merely covering them with litter to check growth.
Such roots placed in heat now will come in several
weeks in advance of those lifted from their grow-
ing quarters and placed in heat. In lifting good-
sized roots it is well to bear in mind that future
years have to be considered, and if small pieces
with a crown are detached from the roots when
lifting, these make nice material for planting in
March if laid in. Many shifts can be resorted to
in forcing Rhubarb, and, provided there is an ab-
sence of rank steam, good growths may be secured.
Now is a good time to cover outside roots. Should
proper forcing pots be out of the question, equally
good results may be secured by using old barrels,
boxes, crates or such like. In covering avoid
getting a violent heat.

Forcing various roots.— There will be more
demand for other roots, and one of the best is
Chicory. I have for the last few years grown the
Witloof. The above root forces so readily, that it-
is not necessary to place large quantities in the
house at one time. The roots winter well if
plunged in the open and covered with litter in
severe weather. Swede Turnips placed in a dark
cellar force very quickly, and the young tender
growths form a nice vegetable. Herbs will now
be in greater demand in a green state. Mint
should be lifted and boxed or placed in beds in
heat. Tarragon will require similar treatment.
Chervil and Basil should be sown in boxes, water-
ing carefully for a time. G. Wythes.

Books.

THE LIFE OF RICHARD OW7EN.*

One of the most interesting men of our own day is
the subject of this memoir, and one of the greatest
of scientific men. A thorough master of his own
work, he was much more than most men of the
day, remarkable for having a heart for other
things, being deeply intere-ted in literature as
well as in science, nothing of interest to human
beings failing to engage his attention. He was
remarkable also for a wondeiful power of clear
and pleasant talk. Interesting as the book is in
many ways as the work of a very young man who
hardly saw his grandfather in his best days, it gives
rarely any idea of Owen's charming power as a
talker. He was not by any means one of those who
do all the talking themselves, but he was a delight-
ful and sympathetic listener to every suggestion,
and in fact charming to meet at the breakfast table
or anywhere else. For many years of his life he
lived in that pretty little garden round Sheen
Cottage, which we have had the pleasure often of
speaking of in The Garden in past years.

Richard Owen, younger son of Richard Owen
formerly of Fulmer Place, Bucks, was born at
Lancaster on July, 1804. On his grandmother's
side he was descended from Richard Eskrigge,
High Sheriff of Bucks in 1741, and owner of Ful-
mer Place, in the same county. His mother Mas
of French extraction. She came of a Huguenot
family of the name of Parrin, who came over from
Provence at the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes.
A woman of great refinement and intelligence, she
was also an accomplished musician, a talent which
she inherited from her father, a professor of music.
In appearance she was "a handsome, Spanish-look-
ing woman with dark eyes and hair," a complete
contrast to Richard Owen, senior, atypical " John
Bull" in face and figure and with a bluff, burly,
obstinate disposition. Owen himself was never
tired of speaking of his mother's charm of manner
and all that he owed to her early training and
example. Of their six children, the eldest of the
two boys — James Hawkins Owen — died at Deme-

* " The Life of Richard Owen." By his grandson,
the Rev. Richard Owen, 31. A. Two volumes. John
Murray, Albemarle Street.

January 12, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

27

rara of yellow fever in 1827. After some prepara-
tory instruction from an old Quaker lady, Richard
Owen at the age of six was sent to the Lancaster
Grammar School. Nothing is to be seen of this
school now, except perhaps the dated stone which
used to be over the porchway. Whewell, the
famous Master of Trinity, also received his educa-
tion there, and another schoolfellow was Higgin,
late Bishop of Derry. At that time Owen is said
not to have exhibited any marked fondness for
study. He would, his biographer says, speak
feelingly of a day which recurred at regular in-
tervals, known as "Black Monday," when the
accumulated misdemeanours of the week were wont
to be expiated. Rightly or wrongly, an increase
in the pains and penalties was attributed by the
scholars to Whewell, whose precocious relish for
mathematics and study in general had consider-
ably raised the standard of work, and Owen,
though much his junior in age and standing,
was loud in his taunting expressions of disgust.
Whewell, in administering a reproof, excited the
wrath of Richard's big brother James, and the re-
sult of his indignation may be gathered from a re-
mark of Owen's mother, to theeffect that she thought
it most ungrateful of "that boy Whewell'' to
have " blacked her eldest son's eyes so shockingly."
But the younger Owen and Whewell became the
best of friends, and their friendly intercourse con-
tinued without a break until the latter's death in
1866. At the age of fourteen Owen had given no
signs of a taste tor the work to which his life was
afterwards devoted. Heraldry appears to have
been his earliest hobby. After leaving school he
was apprenticed to Leonard Dickson, of Lancaster,
surgeon and apothecary, on the death of whom he
was "assigned, transferred, and turned over" to
one Joseph Seed. A further transfer took place,
when Mr. Seed accepted a post as surgeon in the
Royal Navy, to Mr. James Stockdale Harrison in
1823. We gather how impressionable Owen's
nature was on hearing that both his appetite and
ardour for science were at the outset somewhat
damped by the "natural awe which the human
corpse inspired, "even among the matter-of-fact sur-
roundings of thedissectingroom. At one time, after
an unusually "uncanny" experience, he mentally
vowed never again "to desecrate a Christian corpse
and to quit a profession that could only be learnt
by such practices."

In October, 1824, Owen matriculated at Edin-
burgh University. In the interval between that
date and 1836 we find him M.R.C.S., in 1832
bringing out his memoir on the "Pearly Nautilus,"
professor on comparative anatomy at St. Bartholo-
mew's, and F. R.S. in 1834, and married to Miss
Caroline Cleft in the new St. Pancras Church,
Euston Square, on July 20, 1835 — his birthday.
In 1S37 Owen was elected to the professorship of
anatomy and physiology in the College of Sur-
geons, vacated by the retirement of Sir Charles
Bell. At about this time he began gradually to
relinquish his medical practice in order to devote
the whole of his time to scientific research. The
Fullerian professorship of physiology at the Royal
Institution he was obliged to forego, owing to a
paramount engagement in relation to the cata-
logue of the Hunterian collection. In the same
year, 1837, he was made a member of the Imperial
Academy of Sciences at Moscow. In 1838 he
visited Germany for the purpose of attending the
meeting of German naturalists at Freiburg, and
he relates in an amusing way how he and Mr.
White Cooper obtained the use of the Prince
Archbishop's carriage to enable them to take
part in an excursion of the association by personal
appeal to his Eminence.

" His Eminence was in bed, but the urgent
Professor (Erchricht) wis admitted, and set forth
in glowing terms the merits of the two deserted
scientists, the distant lands from which they had
travelled, the estimation in which they were
held by the ' association,' and especially the
exemplary obedience to directions which had led
to the disappointment caused by ruder — especially
French— visitors. The Archbishop turned on his
pillow, and, in choice ecclesiastical Latin, pro-
nounced ' Then the last shall be first and the first

last,' and gave his orders to the attendant chaplain
accordingly. The arehiepiscopal coach being
horsed and manned, the Professor rejoicingly re-
turned with it to the Town Hall.'

To enumerate in chronological order every step
in this active and distinguished career would take
too long. But, following him into his beautiful
garden retreat at Sheen Lodge on April 13, 1S65,
we find him writing to his sister Maria : " We
have now a lovely bed of Hyacinths out and the
adjoining Tulip bed is beginning to show colour.
The Horse Chestnut leaves are unfolding, but it is
unseasonably dry. The orchard house shows a
glorious blaze of blossom, with the bees busily
humming and the warmth giving quite a mid-
summer character to the interior. The wild
Hyacinths, Arums, itc, I brought last year from
Norfolk are all springing up or in flower. I
think you will find the garden this year (mite up
to the mark."

In his declining years it was one of Owen's
favourite amusements to observe the habits of the
birds which frequented his garden, and the notes
which he made upon his feathered visitors were,
as he writes in his diary, " communicated to my
friend Robinson's weekly paper — The Garden —
in successive numbers." The number of birds
which the Professor noted in his garden at Sheen
Lodge might well surprise even those who pride
themselves on their observation of such things.
" I have entered in my garden book," he writes,
"the name of every kind of bird which I have
noted there, distinguishing the permanent dwellers
from the occasional residents, and the latter accord-
ing to the periods of their temporary sojourn,
whether to breed or to feed — in other words, the
summer and winter visitors."

On January 5, 1884, Professor Owen was
gazetted K.C.B. on his retirement from the
British Museum, and on Mr. Gladstone's initia-
tive his pension was supplemented by £100
annually. The death of his only son took place
in 1886, and shortly followed that of his remain-
ing sister. His closing years were passed at
Sheen Lodge in the companionship of his eldest
grandson until 1889, when his daughter-in-law
and the rest of his children came also to reside
there. His time was occupied chiefly with his
correspondence and reading. He would, says his
biographer, "read anything that came to hand,
from the latest scientific work that was sent to
him to the Queen newspaper, which journal was a
source of unfailing amusement to him, owing to
the numerous advertisements of hair dyes, washes
for the complexion, and the 'anatomical impossi-
bilities,' as he called the ladies of the fashion

plates The love of his home and of his

beautiful garden only grew stronger with his de-
clining years. Every day he would go round his
garden — no small distance — supported by his
favourite curiously carved stick."

Early in the year 1889 Sir Richard Owen was
seized with an attack of illness very like a para-
lytic stroke, from which he never entirely re-
covered. In his library, hung with medallions
and miniatures of various men — Newton, Cuvier,
John Hunter, William Cleft, Joseph Banks, and
others— as well as oil paintings of John Hunter
and Oliver Cromwell, he would sit for hours look-
ing out wistfully at the park view, the little
piece of water with the two old Oaks by its side,
the wide expanse of green over the dark back-
ground of trees, his favourite companion a little
black and white Persian cat.

" In the early morning of his last birthday
(July 20, 1892) the tree which he admired more
than any in the garden — the Gleditschia — fell
down with a crash, leaving only part of the trunk
and a few branches, although there was little or
no wind at the time."

By a curious coincidence, says his biographer,
on that day Sir Richard showed marked symptoms
of failing strength. Shortly before his death he
received a visit from the Prince of Wales, the
Princess May, and the Duke of Teck, who stayed
for some time and talked at his bedside. During
the whole of his illness the Duke and Duchess of
Teck and Princess May frequently came to Sheen

Lodge, and to stay and talk with him. On De-
cember 16 he ceased to recognise those that were
standing around him and became very restless.
A little before 3 o'clock on Sunday morning,
December 18, 1S92, he passed peacefully away.

The book is well printed and neatly bound, with
portraits of Professor Owen at various stages of
his life. It also contains a monograph by Pro-
fessor Huxley on " Owen's Position in the History
of Anatomical Science." The list of his honorary
distinctions is long enough to fill nearly four
pages of small type.

LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS IN THE
KEW ARBORETUM.*
This, which deals with the Poly petals, is the first
of a series of hand lists of the collections of living
plants cultivated in the Royal Gardens which it
is intended to issue from time to time. The im-
portance and magnitude of the work may be
judged by the fact of a rough census of the species
and distinct varieties of plants cultivated atKew,
giving the total number as approximately 20,000,
of which 3000 are hardy shrubs or trees. We
are very glad to see a beginning of this list,
for which we have only praise, but regret that
the tree list was not published at the same time,
as its being published in parts will necessitate
several indices. As it is, it will perhaps be better
to keep the present index in type and complete it,
otherwise the book when complete will have several
indices. It is an extremely useful and handy little
book, and would have, perhaps, been better still if
the size had been a little larger — more like the old
Kew list of herbaceous plants, in fact. But we are
very glad to get it in any shape, and we hope
that the catalogue printing will continue until
all the collections are embraced. It would, we
think, be some improvement if the name of the
genus were repeated in full on the top of each
page in the case of large families.

A. HANDBOOK TO THE PRIMATES.t

These volumes belong to the series known as
" Allen's Naturalist's Library." Great interest
attaches to the study of the monkey, whose
habits, cries, and physical characteristics so
closely resemble those of the human race, that
sportsmen confess an unconquerable repugnance
to taking his life, and even hardened naturalists
speak with pain of the human-like distress which
a wounded monkey exhibits. In these two
moderate-sized volumes a great deal of informa-
tion is imparted in clear and concise language
regarding the habits, habitat, and physical
characteristics of the monkey tribe, from the
huge, ungainly gorilla to the graceful and soft-
eyed lemur. The volumes, however, though
clearly printed, are not well put together, and
show a tendency to come to pieces with very
slight handling. The coloured lithographic illus-
trations, too, seem to leave something to be
desired, though this was probably unavoidable.
It is, of course, well known to our readers that
monkeys in gardens are not desirable visitors.
In Northern and Central India, where the Hanu-
man monkey is held sacred and generally pro-
tected, it is no uncommon occurrence in the
Northern and Central Provinces to see numbers of
this species perched upon the roofs of houses.
The damage they inflict on gardens and fields
renders them a great nuisance. At Simla, the
summer headquarters of the Indian Government
in the Himalayas, a large troop of Macaques
attached to the Hindu temple do considerable
damage in the kitchen gardens of the mountain
residences, so that the gardeners have to keep a
sharp look out and fire upon them occasionally.
Dr. Bowdler Sharpe, who was at Simla in 1885,

* "Royal Gardens, Kew, Haud List of Trees and
Shrubs Grown in the Arboretum." Part I.

t"A Handbook to the Primates." By Henry O.
Forbes, LL.D., &c. Edited by Professor Bowdler
Sliarpe. Two vols. W. H. Allen and Co., Ltd., 13,
Waterloo Place, S.W.

2R

THE GARDEN

[January 12, 1895.

relates that the fakir who lived at the top of
Jocko was much offended because one or two of
his clients had been wounded in this manner.
This man had tamed the monkeys to such an
extent, that when he called them the trees in-
stantly began to move in all directions with the
approach of numbers of these animals hastening
to him for the peas which he had in readiness for
them. They clustered round him, and though
they would not allow strangers to stroke them,
they came within arm's length and picked up
their food. One patriarch, who remained for
some time after the tribe had disappeared into
the trees, was called the "Subadar," and wore
quite a venerable appearance. The picture will
be familiar to many of our Anglo-Indian readers.

Flower Garden.

SNAPDRAGONS.

(antirrhinums.)

Of the common Snapdragon, the garden varie-
ties are now numerous, and often showy in
effect, the best being the pure colours (i.e., not
striped). They fall into several "races," accord-
ing to their height.

The race is divided into three sections based
upon the length of the stems ; —

1. Tall varieties.

2. Semi-dwarf varieties.

3. Dwarf varieties.
The large-flowered Snapdragon, even when

wild, differs greatly, the result of situation, and
when under cultivation through the efforts of
gardeners to produce new varieties, so that it
gives us from seed the greatest variety of form.
These differences are, however, in the good kinds
confined to the colour of the flowers and the tints
of the foliage. Thus in a single mixed sowing, of
the variegated Snapdragon it is often possible to
find from twenty to twenty-five different forms
as regards the flowers, although closely resem-
bling each other in habit, height and foliage. So
also with the semi-dwarf kinds. "Still, amongst
plants so dissimilar we shall find that certain
colours and forms are reproduced from the seed
with a certain degree of regularity. By saving
the seed from such plants and re-sowing, we
obtained a fair quantity true to their original
form, and in the course of several years' sow-
ings, by getting rid of all but the selected types,
we obtained the first of our fixed varieties. A
more difficult matter was to get rid of certain
exceptional colours which sometimes showed
themselves in mixed seedlings. The desire to
obtain striking varieties is easy to understand ;
baskets of vari-coloured flowers, although pleas-
ing when near, are when seen at a distance not
so good in effect. On the other hand, by
arranging the different varieties in groups of
simple colours alternately we get striking effects
and a certain fulness, it may be repose, but
in any case effect is gained. In making our
borders it was necessary to choose plants that
were regular and of one colour, low-growing
plants being preferred ; and therefore we had
recourse in the first place to the dwarf varieties.
Before giving a short description of the
prettiest kinds let us say a word about the
division of the Snapdragons into the three races
according to height.

The tall race. — These plants attain a
height of 1 ft. 8 in. to 2 feet (sometimes more)
when closely planted, and in large beds in
French gardens may be planted in groups of
G feet or 8 feet, encircled sometimes by corre-
sponding varieties among the dwarf kinds to a
depth of a few feet. In smaller beds the plants
may be isolated. The centre may be formed of

large baskets in places most exposed to the heat
of the sun where few other plants could live.
Sowings should also be made in order to obtain
those superb branchlets which with their long
spikes are so precious for the making of bou-
quets. Should the plants show too many flower-
less branches, we have only to cut down the
stems 4 inches from the soil, and six months
afterwards they will produce fresh flowers.

The semi-dwarf race. — These, which grow
1 ft. 4 in. to 1 ft. 8in. high, may be used in the
same way, and they lend themselves especially
to the filling of baskets for which the habit of
the large kind is too pronounced, and to the
adornment of rockwork and of dry, arid walls.
It is in this race that we find the greatest
variety of colour. Though the flower-spike is
not so long as in the preceding race, there is
no decrease in the size of the flowers.

Dwarf, or Tom Thumb race. — In the old
race of dwarf Snapdragon, or Tom Thumb, the
plants for the most part had spikes of consider-
able length, and which were sometimes slender.
Repeated selection from these has resulted in
the production of plants of a peculiar habit and
distinct race. The flower-bearing branches
attain a height of 6 inches to 7-j inches,
and a breadth of some 10 inches. They are
composed of a great number of short, thick
branches, the foliage being abundant and of a
black-green colour. The flower-spikes are very
thickly set, more especially in the case of the
white-flowered and yellow-flowered varieties.
Where many branches bloom at the same time
the plant presents a mass of closely-set flowers,
to which the foliage of the outer branches is as
a frame. Other varieties are rather less dwarf,
and their spikes have the form of enlarged
cones, as with the feathery-flowered variety.
The foliage of the race is throughout of a dark
colour.

The Tall Varieties.

Pure white. — A superb plant, with pure white
flowers, the bud a very pale greenish white, the
swellings of the lower lip of a very clear yellow tint.
The stems and foliage are of a handsome clear
green.

White, with rosy streaks. — Thin cherry-rose
streaks or lines are traced upon the flower on
a white-lilac-like ground. Both are very clear
varieties, and, like the pure yellow described
lower down, very precious for bouquets.
Brilliant. — A pretty purple and yellow flower.
Crescia. — A superb plant, flowers of a very
decided red colour, but very striking. The tube of
the corolla is reddish violet, also the underneath
of the upper lip.

Dalila. — The tube and extremity of the lips of
this are w hite.

Elegant. — This is of a beautiful decided red or
carmine, a very brilliant colour coming between
the clear and the pronounced tints.

Pure yellow. — Flower large and self, a very
pure lemon tone.

Kermesina splendens. — Flowers very large
and spikes long, of a striking deep red colour, the
lower lip still more so. The leaves are reddish
violet in colour.

Nigricans. — The most pronounced colour of

all, being a red-brown (almost black) and velvety.

Panache. — A mixture of colours, yellow or black

ground and variegated, streaked or dotted with

cherry-red or violet-red streaks or dots.

Semi-dwarf Varieties.

Pure white. — This is like the large-branching
variety, but smaller.

Rosy white. — A pretty, very pale, slightly
lilac shade.

Constantin Tretiakoff. — Purple-red, lip yel-
low, tube white.

Firefly. — Handsome and large carmine flower
with white tube, and on the swelling of the lower
lip a yellow stain.

Nigricans. — Corresponds to the same variety
among the large-branching kinds.

Variegated. — Corresponds to the same variety
among the large-branching kinds.

Purple. — The entire flower red, but the red on
the tube duller.

Dwarf Varieties.

White. — The spike of this is very short and the
blooms very large, whilst the swelling of the lower
lip is slightly tinged with very pale lemon-yellow.
The buds before opening are of a rosy yellow
shade.

Yellow. — Similar to the larger-growing form,
the flowers of a very pure sulphur-yellow shade.

Copper colour. — Rather larger than the two
preceding varieties. Flowers copper-red or ma-
hogany on a yellow ground.

Variegated. — A variety differing slightly from
the race, the spikes being perceptibly longer.
This should be 10 inches high or thereabouts and
of equal width. The flowers are streaked and
dotted on a yellow or white ground.

Cultivation.

Snapdragons are easy of cultivation, light
sandy and cool soils suiting them perfectly.
They are propagated from seed, which may be
sown at different times of the year : (1) In
August od the spot where they are to grow, or
preferably in seed-beds, in which latter case
plant close to a south wall, sheltering from
continued frosts of 3° to 4° with dry leaves,
straw, &c. Plant them out in the spring 16
inches to 24 inches apart. (2) In June
or July in seed - beds in a well exposed
position, planting out the seedlings in the
spring. (3) In seed-beds (March to April)
at the foot of a south wall. Transplant
when the plants are sufficiently developed,
and they may also be transplanted to seed-
beds and planted out when the flowers com-
mence to show themselves. By means of
successive sowings it is possible to obtain an
almost uninterrupted bloom from June until
frost conies. Snapdragons-are also propagated
by cuttings made in the spring or summer,
and even during the whole of flowering time.
With Snapdragons, as with a great number of
other plants, the colour of the stems and leaves
of the young plants may to a certain point
indicate to us what the colour of the flowers
will be. Thus, kinds with green or light
coloured stems and leaves will have in
nearly all cases white, or mainly white
flowers, or of which the colour is undecided ;
whilst of the plants which produce flowers of a
decided colour, the stems and the leaves are of
a pronounced green tint, more or less purple or
ruddy also. In addition to the usea indicated
above, these plants are specially adapted fur
ruins and rock gardens. — Les Fleurs de Pleiru
Terre.

Red and white Daisies. — For filling flower
beds cheaply Daisies should not be lost sight of.
If we start with a few dozen we can soon make
them into thousands if required, and, unless
through carelessness, we need never lose them.
After they are lifted from the beds in May divide
and plant out in nursery beds in a shady spot if
possible and water for a time till established, and
there will be plenty of stocky stuff to fill the beds
in autumn. What soft lines of colour Daisies
make if one really wishes for long, straight
lines. I was kept waiting at a country station
several hours last spring, and to while away the
time I sauntered into the little village, and what
a place for Daisies it was. Long lines of white
and red Daisies led up to the cottage door in more
than one garden, and very charming the}- looked.
The red and white are most useful for filling beds
or making edgings. The Hen and Chickens Daisy
is less common and more expensive to purchase,

January 12, 189 5. J

THE GARDEN

29

and the variegated leaved forms are more difficult
to manage— at least I have found them so. A small
bed filled with white Daisies and a broad band of
red Daisies round will have a neat effect. They
always look fresh, no matter what the weather
may bo, and if mild, flowers maybe gathered more
or less all winter. I could gather a bouquet of
Daisies now if I wished, but I would rather see
them growing. — E. H.

CAMPANULA RAINERI.
I have no desire to urolong the discussion with
Mr. H. S. Leonard oii the subject of Campanula
Raineri, as it appears to me to be both an unprofit-
able and an unseasonable one. Mr. Leonard tells
us that his employe wrote to him, stating that this
plant is very common in Italy ; but, on the
authority of botanical writers and from the in-
formation which I have received from two living
botanists of Lombardy— the only ones who have
taken up this question— I can assert that such is
not the case. Further argument is, therefore,
needless. I hardly think it worth while to defend
myself against the malicious insinuation which
Mr. Leonard makes against me personally when
he speaks of my rooting up plants on the moun-
tains, as the plant which gave rise to the discussion
belongs to the class of "rare " plants which are the
only kinds protected by our association, and also
by the alpine clubs of several other countries, and
I may just remind Mr. Leonard that this matter
of rooting up rare plants originated with himself,
and not with me. Four years ago Mr. Leonard
accused our society of being the authors of the
anti-phylloxera laws, which do not permit plants
to be sent by parcel post, unless officially certifi-
cated, to those parts of Europe in which the- Vine
is cultivated. At that time we had no trouble in
proving to him that we had nothing to do with
these laws, as our society was not founded until
long after the promulgation of the said laws. It
appears to me that Mr. Leonard is now eager to
accuse us of other misdoings, but I shall not con-
cern myself about the exoneration of our society.
Mr. Leonard and I do not appear to have been
created to understand each other. I shall, how-
ever, as strongly as possible dispute his claim to
act rightly when, instead of supplying a plant
which some customer may have ordered from him,
he substitutes another plant which, in his opinion,
is superior to that which his customer has ordered.
He mentions, as an example, Primula nivalis
(Hort.), which, in his opinion, is superior to
P. nivalis, Pall, (the true species). I must here
take exception to his views in this matter, as deal-
ings of this kind are very detrimental to the good
name and credit of horticulturists, and contribute
to the introduction of the most lamentable con-
fusion in the world of plants. For instance, in
the case of the plant in question, I am not at all,
and rightly so, of the same opinion as Mr.
Leonard. In the modest Siberian plant I perceive
a grace, an elegance, a purity of form, in fine, a
poetry of expression which is not to be found in
the P. nivalis of the gardens, and I can well un-
derstand how an amateur who is alive to this
poetic expression and delicate language of the
flowers of the snowy regions would be anxious to
obtain the aristocratic P. nivalis (Pall.), more
especially if he had already on his rockwork the
rich parvenu which bears the same name. Under
any circumstances I deny that the vendor of any
kind of wares has the right to prescribe to me in
matters of taste. I may admire a certain plant
and prefer it to some other plant which my neigh-
bour values more highly. Individual tastes and
ideas of colour are no subjects for argument.

In conclusion, permit me to repeat my former
advice to Mr. Leonard, viz., raise your plants
from seed, and you will have them hardier and
more healthy than plants from the mountains. 1
have never succeeded with any of the plants
which Mr. Leonard has sent me from his nursery,
except a solitary Crocus bulb. But I do not find
fault with the condition of these plants. On the
contrary, I know by experience that plants with

thick, heavy, tumid tissues never succeed in a
dry climate like ours, while, on the other hand, it
is equally true that plants raised in our dry,
warm climate, where they cannot grow as they
would in England, succeed ever so much better
when transferred to a suitable climate in which
they can find themselves as much at home as they
appear to do in England. — H. Correvon.

May I send just a line on M. Correvon's

behalf '.' It so happens that I am well acquainted
with his usual practice. About five or six
years ago I accompanied him on one of his
botanical expeditions among the mountains to the
south of Martigny. His headquarters were at
Mauvoisin, and from thence he proceeded to his
work. On one occasion he set his heart on the
ascent of Mont Avril, and I went with him to the
end of my tether, when he and the guide left me,
and I had to solace myself for seven or eight hours
as best I could on a plateau not very far from the
huge glacier D'Otemma, amidst a profusion of
Anemone vernalis, Azalea procumbens, Soldanellas,
Gentians, &c. In the evening M. Correvon
returned with his hands and his case full of the
blossoms of Eritrichium nanum, Androsace ob-
tusifolia (I think). Gentians, &c, but he had not
a single rooted plant with him. nor did he display
one at the little inn at Mauvoisin in the evening
— nor did he take one back with him to Geneva—
of any sort, to the best of my belief, as the result
of his journey. On the contrary, the burden of
his song invariably was that alpine plants should
be grown from seed, and I have seen him over and
over again pounce down avariciously upon the
seed-vessel of some scarce plant which he descried
and carry it off with him. Besides, it is not to
be supposed that well-known savants, bankers,
&c, of Switzerland and other countries would
allow themselves to be stultified by the action of
one in whom they put (to my knowledge) the
greatest possible trust. I have read Miss Will-
mott'a note in your impression of December 1."),
and I quite agree with what she has said. — H.
Ewbank, Ryde, Isle of Wight.

DECEMBER IN SOUTH DEVON.

The past December has been a comparatively
warm and sunny month, the mean temperature
being 45-5°, or 3'9° above the average, while the
sunshine recorded (73 hours 10 minutes) is 15
hours 46 minutes over the usual allowance for
December. On twenty-one days has the sun
shone, and on only six days, or rather nights,
has the thermometer on the Grass fallen to
freezing point, the lowest reading being 24 "8° on
the 31st. Rain fell on twenty days to the amount
of 2 21 inches, or 2'77 inches below the rainfall
of December, 1893, and 101 inch below the
average, which is 3 22 inches. The total rain-
fall for the twelve months amounted to 43'23
inches, an excess of 7 '74 inches over the aver-
age of 35 '49 inches. The year's sunshine, on the
other hand, has been decidedly meagre, being no
less than 432 hours 35 minutes below the sun-
shine of 1893. For twenty-seven days out of
the thirty-one the wind has been in the south
or west, and throughout the month has been
boisterous, the total horizontal movement having
been 9292 miles. The greatest velocity was
reached on the 22nd, when 734 miles were re-
corded, a rate of 44 miles per hour being regis-
tered between 4 and 5 a.m., some of the gusts
travelling at the rate of 100 miles an hour.
On the 2nd I picked a large bud of Magnolia
grandiflora, which opened well indoors, and
until the fri ists of the last two days of the month
unseasonable blooms of many species of flowers
were noticeable, among them being Doronicum
Harpur Crewe, St. John's Wort, scarlet Geum,
and Myosotis. Primroses have commenced to
bloom in the sheltered nooks of the lanes, and
a few Tea Roses might have been picked from
the south walls on most days of the month. On

a warm terrace, trained up the sheltering rooks,
Physianthus albens, a little-known climber, was
flowering in the open during the second week of
the month, and Solanum jasminoides is still
producing its graceful sprays of white blossoms.
The giant Christinas Rose (H. maximus or alti-
folius) has been in bloom now for nearly three
months, and seems likely to continue for another
three weeks. As a rule it is over before
Christmas and does not commence so early as
October, which this year it did, the first flower
being picked on October 18.

Many plants will suffer severely from the
damp and open autumn and winter. Tree
Pieonies had pushed out young growths fully
(i inches long. These hive been killed by the
frost of the 31st. Plants of Agapanthus um-
bellatus, which had been covered up with mat-
ting and had passed through much harder frosts
unhurt during last winter, have also been dam-
aged owing to the sappy condition of the leaves,
but the crowns being well mulched with a thick
layer of leaf-mould will probably escape injury.
Bulbs generally do not appear so unusually
forward as they seem to be in some localities.
Let us hope that what we lose in earliness we
may gain in prolonged and bounteous supply.
3 ° r S. W. F.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
Herraceoi's plants FROM seed.— Although in the
majority of places little attention is given to rais-
ing a stock of herbaceous plants in any variety
from seed, it is a question if it is not a branch of
flower gardening that does not deserve more at-
tention. One is sometimes met with the argu-
ment that we have plenty of bedding plants for
the formal garden, and many herbaceous plants
are short-lived so far as their flowering season is
concerned, and are, therefore, hardly admissible
in prominent places where a good and constant
supply of bloom is required for a given time.
This may be partly true, but in the case, for in-
stance, of Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, Carna-
tions, Violas, &c, we have even a longer flower-
ing season than is obtained from the majority of
tender plants; whilst others that are more quickly
out of flower, as Pyrethrums and Columbines, are
beautiful in their foliage, and may at any rate be
planted sparingly in clumps with other things.
Take also the case of herbaceous borders. Are
they full of good things, or is there a mixture of
weedy rubbish and a lot of shrubs and small
conifene that are quite out of character on such ?
If so, by all means (as excellent strains are now
obtainable from all the best firms) secure packets
of seed of such things as Poppies, Pyrethrums, Car-
nations, Polyanthuses, Aquilegias, Antirrhinums,
Pentstemons, Campanulas, Foxgloves, Verbas-
cums, and Delphiniums that will in their respec-
tive heights furnish a grand display. Even if not
wanted for flower garden planting they are sure
to be useful, and in all cases where there is a
treat demand for cut flowers I would say never
be without your nursery beds of perennials. A
small stock in variety once obtained, the best
seedlings can be selected for future seed saving
and sowing Fortunately, too, in the case of the
majority of hardy flowers one is, with careful
selection, fairly certain of a good plant, good
averao-e flowers, both individually and in the
spike or truss, and occasionally some interesting
new departures. All species that will flower the
same season if require! should be sown early, say
about the end of February, either in a pit or pre-
ferably in boxes, placing the same in a vinery that
is at work not too far from the glass. Let me, how-
ever strongly advise all whoarecontemplating rais-
ing a stock of such plants not to attempt more in
the spring than they can manage well. If there
is a possibility of other work pressing rather hard
at this season, it is best to defer the sowing until
the end of the summer ; transplant and plant out
in spring. Naturally, nearly all the family being
hardy can be sown in the open, and where this is

30

THE GARDEN

[January 1-2, 1865.

done it is advisable to use a rough frame or pit so
as to have the seedlings close under the eye, and
be able to guard against enemies in the way of
slugs, maggots, or birds.

Annuals. — The selection of the commoner an-
nuals for Hower garden work depends greatly, 1
may say entirely, on the requirements of different
places. They are not as a rule very largely used in
old established gardens, the beds or outlying 1 or-
ders in which they lived out their brief existence
being gradually tilled up with perennials. I onlj
grow a few now, and these are eilher for special
places or for a special purpose. For the former
trailing Trop;eolums and Convolvulus minor in
variety may be cited as examples of plants tuit-
able for covering quickly bits of rough ground :
whilst for rather poor borders on a large or small
scale, the three varieties of Malope, crimson, rose
and white, and the new Toadflax (Linaria aurea
reticulata) would be found suitable. The enduring
properties of the Malope in a cut state are not, I
think, generally known, and are somewhat re-
markable considering the rather flimsy appearance
of the petals. I was led to note this by seei< g
s me shoots that had teen picked from the plants
and left on the bench in a shed, dry and hard in
the stem, but showing the flowers at the end of
four days apparently as fresh as when the
shoots were severed from the plant. There
are some of the annuals that are very use-
ful, almost indispensable, indeed, for summer
cutting, and I always find room for a good
batch of these even if they have to monopo-
lise some portion of the kitchen garden borders.
Gaillardias and Godetias are in a cut state among
the most enduring annuals, and, it may be added,
will Hower all the longer if the ground in which
they are sown has been well manured and deeply
dug. There is no better white-flowering annual
than Princess Alice Stock, its branching habit,
which enables one to take off individual blooms
with quite a nice piece of stem, being a special
point in its favour. A good white Aster is Comet,
the habit of the flower rendering it more valuable
for cutting than the very formal types. In yellow
shades the two best annuals are possibly the
yellow form of Iceland Poppy and the miniature
Sunflower ; the latter may be sown early in a
littl 3 warmth to get it quickly into flower; it
will pay for a bit of good ground, and if the
flowers are cut fairly hard it will continue to
bloom until late in the autumn. If it is pro-
posed to sow Sweet Peas in pots, they should go
in towards the end of the month, but I do not
think there is much gained by the practice, es-
pecially if a spell of cold sets in just as the young
plants are turned out in the open. One gets
equally good results by sowing outside in Feb-
ruary, always provided a piece of ground that ha?
been well manured and trenched is chosen. Varie-
ties of really good Sweet Peas are now so numer-
ous that it is rather difficult to make a selection.
For growing in quantity, Mrs. Sankey, Princess
Beatrice, Captain of the Blues, and a thoroughly
good strain of Invincible Scarlet may be recom-
mended. Of a few newer and more expensive
varieties tried last year, I was very pleased with
Stanley, Countess of Radnor, Venus, and Mrs.
Eckford. Provision must always be made for a
good breadth of that indispensable annual Mig-
nonette ; it is always thoroughly at home in the
decomposed mulch and rather stiff soil to be
found in the beds of dwarf Roses, and a sowing
may be made here and another on a portion of
a north border. This is a chance crop, not of much
use, perhaps, in a season like that of 189-1, but
coming in very useful, given a long spell of hot,
dry weather in August and September.

Claremont. E. Burrell.

IrisKeempferi. — I must thank "E. J." and Mr-
T. Smith (p. 521) for their notes on the above. I
think that in all probability 1113* failure must be
attributed to heavy soil. Nursery catalogues are
eloquent regarding the copious supply of water
nece sary, but silent as to soil. Evidently with
heavy soil too much water is harmful, and it is
better to err in the other direction, viz., that of

dryness. There is no lime in the soil, so that this
possible cause is disposed of. I shall substitute
leaf-mould, mushroc m-bed manure and sand for the
present s:il and hope for better results. — S. W. F.

THE GLADWIN.

(IRIS FfETIDISSIMA.)

Trises, with few exceptions, are mostly growD
for the beauty of their flowers. Our common
yellow Water Flag, which with the Gladwin re-

got from the flower garden in summer is ob-
tained with the finer dried Grasses, "Everlast-
ings," and the Gladwin. We saw lately a vase
filled with Grasses, Gladwin, and the orange-red.
calyces of the Winter Cherry, more appropriate
to the season than forced things from the stove.
It. is delightful when wandering in a wood to
come across a colony of this flower, the plant
itself spreading out into a dense tuft, the leaves
long, dark green, changing as winter hastens
away to a lighter "drier" tone. It may be

The Gladwin {Iris fatidissima) . From a water-colour drawing by Agnes Coolc.

presents the family in Britain, is not the least
charming in a lovely race, but the Gladwin re-
presented in the accompanying sketch has no
flower beauty. Its value is in its brilliance in
the winter months, with the delicate brown
capsules burst open to display the rows of
orange-red berries enclosed within. One can
get a winter picture with a group of the Glad-
win, the leafage remaining with the stems and
displaying glaucous shades, passing to a light
brown at the tips. In the early winter months
bunches of its berry-bearing stems are sold in
the shops, and as pretty a bouquet as may be

naturalised in open places and should be in the
garden proper, one use for it being to clothe a
dry bank, whilst even under the shade of trees
it is happy. A group of it is worth planting if
only for cutting for the winter. We may men-
tion the variegated variety as worth considera-
tion. Variegated plants as a rule are things to
avoid, but this is pretty and useful.

Alstrcemerias. — I observe that my note ri the
above created a smile, but whether " North
Cheshire " was amused at my inability to grow
Alstrcemerias when treated as ordinary border

January 12, 1895]

THE GARDEN

31

plants or because they are so rarely seen in gar-
dens, "at least in this county," or because he^is so
very successful with them, hedoes not state. "North
Cheshire" has the soil for Alstrremerias which
at once accounts for his success. I have just the
contrary, as, in fact, most of the gardeners have
in this county. I did not say that it was owing
to their tenderness that these plants failed to grow
in the open border. Neither could I think this to
be the case, at least with aurantiaca, knowing
tho depth to which the tubers descend. " North
Cheshire " must remember that all the species are
not hardy. For instance, A. chilensis is of doubt-
ful hardiness ; so is pelegrira, also p. alba ; pul-
chra is safer when protected a little. I am able to
grow the more tender varieties under the sedi-
tions I mentioned in my note of December 15.
Even aurantiaca does not flourish on these hilL
under ordinary border treatment. The subsoil is
altogether unsuitable for it, being too cold. Of
course there are exceptions 1 have no doubt. Cancn
Ellacombe, of Bitton, can grow it in almost any
spot in his garden. If " North Cheshire " does not
possess or know pelegrina, I can strongly recom-
mend it.— Thos. Arnold, The Gardens, Cirencester
House.

Puschkinia scilloides.— This lovely Squill-
like spring-flowering plant has not taken that
place in our spring gardens its merits deserve.
Probably the price at which it is sold is to some
extent a prohibitive one, as this militates against
its being employed in masses, when it can be
seen to great advantage. It is so employed at
Belvoirin the adornment of the spring garden. At
Belvoir, in common with Chionodoxa and some
others of alike character, the plants seed freely.
In the large trial garden the late Mr. Ingram
used to grow large patches as a reserve. — R. D.

Primrose culture. — When at Belvoir Castle in
the spring of 1893 I was much interested in the
method adopted by the late Mr. \V. Ingram in
preparing his plants of coloured Primroses for
planting out in the beds in his spring gar-
den. He always had a succession of strong
seedlings coming on, and they were planted
out on a bed made up of manure and
leaves 2£ feet deep, and then covered with rich
soil, in which the seedlings were planted. Here
they made a vigorous growth, and the advantage
was seen in the wealth of bloom given when the
plants were transferred to the spring beds. In
the case of beds of Primroses and also plantations
of Polyanthuses this condition of things is well
worthy of being imitated. The roots enjoy a bed
of manure below ; coolness, moisture and food are
thus furnished, and reproduced in superb heads of
bloom. Some of the choicer varieties of double
Primroses could be better grown and kept through
the summer if treated in this way. — R. D.

Verbascum phosniceum. — Vou may not think
tl.c correction of sufficient importance to allow it
a space in your paper, but there can, I tlii- k, be
1 o doubt that the description of the plant (en-
graved on page 519 in your issue, December 22)
does not apply to Verbascum phceniceum, but to
Verbascum nigrum-album. The latter is a native
of Ecgland, and is well described by your corre-
spoi dent "J. E. N.,"and it reproduces itself in ecd-
less quantity by seed. V. phuniccum comes from
Southern Europe and is a hardy perennial. I
have long grown both kinds, but duriDg a period
of more than fifty years the latter has never
ripened seed in my garden, though I am aware it
has occasionally, but rarely, done so elsewhere.
Neither did I ever meet with a white variety. —
J. H. Archer-Hind, South Devon.

deep the temperature of the ground is now only
5°, and at 1 foot deep only 3° above freezing.
These are low readings even for midwinter, but,
nevertheless, not as low as those recorded at the
same period last year, when the ground at both
depths was about 1' colder. Snow has already
fallen on six days this month, but on only two of
these was the ground completely covered, and
then to the average depth of less than 1 inch. The
last few Rose blooms of the past season were de-
stroyed by frost during the night preceding the 31st
of December, which is fully a month later than the
average date for the last Rose in the previous nine
years, and later than in any year since 18S0, when
there was still a bloom to be had on January 6. —
E. M., Berkhamsted.

The weather in West Herts. — All the last
ten days have been unseasonably cold, and on
each night the exposed thermometer has shown
more or less frost. The coldest day, however, of
the present winter was the 7th, when the tempera-
ture in the shade at no time exceeded 30°. The
coldest night also occurred during the past week,
being that preceding the Oth, the exposed ther-
mometer then indicating 15" of frost. At 2 feet

minor work of the so-called decorative artist, wall-
papermen, pastrycooks, and other folk who call
themselves artists while doing mostly ugly things.
We regret to see public gardening in America,
where there have been such good gardens and
parks made by Mr. Olmsted, degraded by a wholly
needless and inartistic mode of setting out plants,
unnatural and contemptible in every way.

ABSURD GARDENING IN CHICAGO.
We see in Mr. Falconer's very pretty little paper
Gardening, published in Chicago, a horrible
example of carpet gardening, in which large vases,
bandaged overwith black and white lines, are made
tu spring up from the ground, and in the middle
of all a fearful representation of the globe, belted
round with dark lines. This remarkable object
— "the crowning feature of the design," as it is
styled in the accompanying letterpress — is thus
described : —

The globe is 12 feet in diameter ami rests on a circu-
lar pedes'al 12 feet across, that slopes frntn 2 feet in
height at the sides to Sh feet in the middle. It is
planted on the sides with the purple-leaved Oxalis and
on the top with Othonna crassifolia. Od the globe
the water is represented by Echeveria secunda irlauca,
the continents and islands by the purple Oxalis, the
equator by yellow, and the meridians by red Alternan-
thera. 'Hie globe has been used several years, and
sometimes the equator and meridians are made with
Sempervivum tectorum. The globe, being so large, is
made secure in its place by a strong timber running
down through the south pole and passing on through
the pedestal into the firm earth beneath, like a long,
well-set fence post. The pedestal is made in much
the same way, except that the upright posts of the
frame are Eet in the ground, and common lath (instead
of wire) are nailed on, leaving spaces 1 inch in « dth.
A sufficient space at the top of the globe is left unwired
until the soil is packed in up to that point, after that
wiring and filling go on little by 1 ttle until the globe is a
solid ball of earth. The soil used is heavy clay loam
with a Hi t'e sand, and it is made very wet and then
tamped into position. The vases ami all the pedestals
are filled in the fame way. The equator and meri-
dians are planted, and after being outlined with pegs
and string, the continents and oceans are also planted.
The planting is done by the aid of a small pointed
stick with which holes of a suitable size for the various
plants are made in the spaces between the wires, and
into each hole, as made, the roots of a plant are dex-
trously twisted, the soil pressed closely about them, and
io on. until " the mighty ocean and the pleasant land "
are all simulated ingrowing things. The p'ants are
set to tarelv touch each other, which allows some room
for growth, but sometimes they pile themselves np in
odd groups that give a somewhat stormy appearance to
the rcean. and c rrngate the vases in a rutin r decora-
tive fashion.

The " world " is watered as any carpet plant would
be, possibly requiring a little more than the average
amount of moisture to make up for the rapid evapora-
tion due to the exposed position. The vases ara 1 reated
likewise, the water being usually applied, in their
case, by means of n garden syringe that is used daily.
Watering with a fine rose nozzle on an ordinary hose
is, however, net at all injurious to plants in such posi-
tions. The blossoms of Kcheverias are generally kept
cut from the plants, although in some cases they are
left and prove quite ornamental. After frost fnds the
out-of-doors flower season the plants are all removed
from the globe, vases, pedestals and beds of tiiis de-
B L'n. the soil is worked out of the vases, and they are
stored indoors until spring, when they are r. paired.
refilled and used again wherever neeeled. The globe,
however, is usually left in position, and in spriug it
also is repaired and refilled.

This is the sort of thing that makes flower
gardening ridiculous in the eyes of all educated
and artistic people. No human being could find
so ugly a thing to draw among natural and artis-
tic things, and the utmost that can be said for
such rubbish is, that it may go along with the

Notes of the Week.

Catalpas and Tulip trees in Yo k .hire.—
Can any reader tell me if C.italpas and a ulip trees
would succeed and flower in sheltered positions as
far north as the West Riding '.' I have seen none in
this district. Persons whom I have asked about
them cannot give me any information. — J. EASTER,
Xostell Priory Gardens.

Meconopsis Wallichi. — I see Mr. Wood says
Meconopsis Wallichi likes as much sun as it can
get. My experience is quite the opposite. It
does perfectly here now in total shade ; whereas it
used to flag in a wet, shady place and lose colour.
The only protection wanted is from strong winds,
which destroy the foliage.— F. Page-Roberts,
Scole Rectory.

Coreopsis grandiflora. — Your picture of this
is eo well done, that no one looking at it would
mistake it for Coreopr is lar.ceolata, as many do
when seeing it in a cut state. The difference is
not in its greater size of bloom, for a well-grown
C. lanceolata is quite as large, but in its shape
and colour, and yet many who know have a diffi-
culty in dividing the two when mixed in a bunch.
The foliage of seedlings is very distinct. I find it
quite hardy and perennial, but it is better treated
as an annual ; the flowers are much finer. Seed-
lings self-sown spring up and grow well in my
garden.— F. PAGE-ROBERTS, Scole Rectory.

Almonds fruiting in Ireland.— Under the
above heading a note appeared in a recent num-
ber of The Garden. Surely this cannot be of such
rare occurrence in a country where flowering and
ornamental trees and shrubs, as a rule, do so re-
markably well. But is it not more unusual for
the Almond to perfect its fruit in this part of
Yorkshire ? Some fruit I enclose you will
see appears to be perfectly ripe and of fair size.
The tree on which the fruits were grown was
covered with its handsome bloom in early spring,
and was a conspicuous object at a considerable
distance.— J. Easter, Nostell Priory Gardens.

What's in a name. — I am relieved by know-
ing, on good authority, that the name Imero-
glossa albescens does not exist in botany. It cer-
tainly does not exist in any respectable spoken or
written language, for one thing at least which
there ought to be in this name is the letter H.
The Greek for "a longing desire" is not "imeros,"
but "himeios." So, too, the Greek compound
adjective meaning " strap-leaved" is not " iman-
tophyllum," but "himantophyllum," anditisjust
as barbarous and excruciating to drop the H in
this word as it would be to call a Sunflower an
Elianthus. If it is necessary to coin these terrible
yard-long words, let them be coined by scholars,
at all events.— (!. H. Engleheart.

Gomphia decora.— The genus Gomphia, al-
though calculated by botanists to contain about
fourscore specks, natives for the most part of
South America, is only represented by one species
in English stoves that can be described as at all
well known. This species is G. decora, also
known as G. olivteformis. Flowering, as it does,
more than once during the year, but rarely missing
the two darkest months of winter— November and
December — its value is greater than that of many
plants which are more grown. It has large, shin-
ino-, deep green leaves not unlike those of the
Cherry Laurel. The flowers are produced in erect
racemes measuring 4 inches or more high, and
about half as much through. On these racemes
the blossoms are closely packed, each one being

32

THE GARDEN

[Janpary 12, 1895.

about 1 inch across, the five spathulate petals being
of a rich bright yellow. The plant is not a fast
grower, and does not need the pruning that so
many other stove plants do to keepthemin proper
bounds. It was introduced from Brazil in 1868.
— B.

Chrysanthemum King' of Plumes. —I send
you a spray of bloom of Chrysanthemum King of
Plumes. The plant was in bloom on the 10th of
December. The sprays exhibited on the 11th at
the Drill Hall were cut from the same plant as
thofe sent. I left one spray to see how long it
would remain fresh on the plant, and I leave you
to judge as to the value of the flowers for keeping.
Cut blooms as a rule keep longer when cut and
placed in a sitting-room than on the plants. —
Robt. Owen, Maidenhead.

*»* A delightfully interesting kind, finely cut
and varied in the shape of its petals, evidently
very late, and as a decorative plant (as the phrase
is now-a-days) would be charming. — Ed.

Rose Mrs. Grant. — We have sent you a few
specimen blooms of our new Rose the Belle
Siebrecht (H.T.), which was at first named Mrs.
Grant, and exhibited under that name by the
raisers, Messrs. Alexander Dickson and Sons,
Newtownards, Ireland, from whom we bought the
entire stock some two and a half years ago. We
have grown this Rose under glass in this country,
and find it not only one of the best for forcing,
but it also does splendidly out ofdoors here,
and has proved perfectly hardy. Dean Hole pro-
nounces the colour a true pink, without any com-
bination colours. It is a free bloomer and a strong
grower, not subject to mildew. It promises to be
one of the finest Roses for cutting ever offered.
— Siebrecht and Wadley, New York.

%* Large and handsome buds, but not in
sufficiently good condition to enable us to see the
true colour. If this Rose was first named Mrs.
Grant, and won prizes under that name in
England, it is perhaps a pity to change it. — Ed.

Bambusa mitis. — It may interest the readers
of The Garden to see a copy of a record which I
made of the growth of a young shoot of Bambusa
mitis. On Sunday, June 25, 1893, at 7 p.m. the
shoot was 3 feet 66 inches out of the ground ; on
June 26, 10.30 a.m., it had grown 32 inches, and
at 7 p.m., June 26, 2 inches more. Total for the
24 hours, 5 2 inches. Growth to June 27, 10.30
a.m., 4-2 inches, and June 27, 7 p.m., 2 6 inches.
Total for 24 hours, 6 8 inches. Growth to June
28, 10.30 a.m., 33 inches, and to June 28, 7 p.m.,
16 inches. Total for the 24 hours, 4 9 inches.
Growth to June 29, 10.30 a.m., 33 inches, and to
June 29, 7 p.m., P75 inches. Total for the 24
hours, 505 inches. Growth to June 30, 10.30
a.m., 225 inches, and to June 30, 7 p.m., 25
inches. Total for the 24 hours, 4.75 inches.
Growth to July 1, 10.30 a.m., 3 25 inches, and to
July 1, 7 p.m., 2 5 inches. Total for the 24 hours,
5'75 inches. Growth to July 2, 10.30 a.m., 5"2
inches, and to July 2, 7 p.m., 585 inches. Total
for the 24 hours, 11 05 inches. Total for the 7
days, 43J inches. Unfortunately, I was obliged
to leave home on July 3, and further measure-
ments were not taken. The circumference of the
cane is 4 inches. — E. G. Loder, Leonardslee, Hor-
sham.

The Williams Memorial Fund. — At a re-
cent meeting of the Williams Memorial trustees
it was decided to offer large silver medals at the
following shows, to be held during 1895 : New-
castle-on-Tyne, for the most meritorious specimen
flowering plant ; Richmond, for the best collection
of vegetables ; Crystal Palace autumn fruit show,
for the most meritorious collection of fruit ;
Trentham, for the most meritorious collection of
fruit. A sum of two guineas was also voted to
the fund being raised for the benefit of the Lind-
ley Library.

Royal Horticultural Society. — The next
meeting of theR.H.S. will be held in the Drill
Hall, James Street, Victoria Street, Westminster,
on Tuesday, January 15. The new committees
will assemble at 12 o'clock noon precisely.

Public Gardens.

Bournemouth pleasure grounds. — At a re-
cent meeting of the Bournemouth Town Council
the Mayor read a letter from Sir George Meyrick's
solicitors, in which it was stated that Sir George
would be willing to hand over the cliffs to the
borough as pleasure grounds provided the question
of an undercliff drive was finally settled, including
the approval of plans and estimates showing the
scheme to be feasible, and further, that he was
prepared to contribute to the cost, but to what
extent would depend very much upon what the
cost of the scheme would be. The cost has been
estimated at from £60,000 to £100,000.

Metropolitan Public Gardens Associa-
tion.—At the monthly meeting of the Metropolitan
Public Gardens Association, held at 83, Lancaster
Gate, Lord Dorchester, vice-chairman, presiding,
the Bishop of Southwark was elected a vice-
chairman. A draft of the twelfth annual report
was laid on the table and adopted, together with
the audited statement of accounts for the year
1S94, showing an income of £4300, against £6600
in 1893, and an expenditure reaching £5400, ne-
cessitating a considerable call upon the reserve
fund to make good the deficit. It was announced
that grants of £20 and £10 10s. had been received
from the Grocers and Salters' Companies, and that
a lady had sent £25 for a drinking fountain ; that
trees had been planted at the suggestion of the
Association in Exhibition Road, and that the
Association was in negotiation for the purchase of
a site for a playground in Deptford. It was agreed
to give £160 and seats towards the laying out of
Bartholomew Square, to make inquiries about a
site in Hornsey Road offered to the Association,
to communicate with the Commons Preservation
Society respecting the alleged threatened en-
closure of Ham Common, and to lay out the
eastern end of the churchyard of All Hallows,
London Wall, if the rector would maintain it as a
public garden. Letters were read respecting many
schemes on hand, and it was announced that the
New River Company declined to allow their
ground in Canonbury to be thrown open, that the
London County Council was no longer prepared to
purchase a site in Flower and Dean Street, a small
portion of which had been built on, and that the
residents in Munster Square and Clarence Gar-
dens and the promoters of the Gliddon Recreation
Ground declined to entertain the proposals of the
Association for the opening of these enclosures.

the
and

by

Mr.

The Yorkshire Gala.— The thirty-seventh
annual meeting of the guarantors and life mem-
bers of the Grand Yorkshire Gala was lately held
at Harker's York Hotel. The chairman, Alder-
man Sir Joseph Terry, J.P., presided, and there
was a large attendance of members. The chair-
man congratulated those present on having again
met under encouraging auspices, and proposed
the election of the Mayor (Mr. Alderman W.
McKay) as president for the present year. Mr.
Councillor Border seconded, and the proposition
was unanimously carried. Mr. Alderman Mil-
ward then proposed the re-election of Sir Joseph
Terry as chairman. Mr. M. Cooper seconded the
proposition, which was unanimously carried.
Mr. Joseph Wilkinson was re-elected treasurer
and Mr. Chas. W. Simmons was unanimously
re-elected secretary. The floral, financial and
entertainment committees were elected, and
the following grants were made : For prizes
to the floral exhibition, £600 ; for music, £120 ;
for fireworks, £100 ; for balloon, £60 ; and for
amusements, £175. The amounts are similar to
those of last year, with the exception of the last,
which is increased.

Sciadopitys verticillata (the Umbrella Pine
of Japan). — I have often wondered why this dis-
tinct and handsome conifer has not been planted
more extensively, considering that it has now been
introduced close on thirty years. Possibly it has

been planted in too dry positions ; if so, this one I Beurre d'Aremberg ;
fact alone would be sufficient to account for I specimen too poor.

failure. Like many other of the Conifera?, it de-
lights in moisture at the roots. I well remember a
fine plant several years ago in a well-known Surrey
garden. This was planted on rather elevated, but
moist, swampy ground where Rhododendrons
grew most luxuriantly. Here the Umbrella Pine
was quite at home. The position, it should be
stated, faced east, thus of its hardiness there
could be little doubt. In the Lake districts and
in North Wales also it should find a congenial
home, note having been taken of how surprisingly
well most of the choicest of the Conifene thrive in
these localities. Its close bushy growth and pyra-
midal outline are decidedly distinct. — G.

"The English Flower Garden" (.4. T.).
— This is being revised and reprinted, and
will be issued in the spring. There are some
advantages in delay, inaemuch as the book,
not being stereotyped, admits of revision. The
new edition w'.ll contain an account of
Bamboos, by Mr. A. B. Freeman-Mitford,
a revision of the hardy Water Lilies
Mons. Latour-Marliac, the Narcissi by
Burbidge, the Lilies by Dr. Wallace, out-door
Chrysanthemums by Mr. Molyneux, Tea RoseB by
Mr. Herrington, and many other additions. The
first part, i.e., that devoted to design, will have
important additions and plans of showing plant-
ing of flowers as well as plan to scale.

"The Garden" Index to the second

20 vols. — Several friends having expressed a wish
that an index of the second twenty volumes of The
Garden should be compiled and printed as a
separate volume, we shall be happy to undertake
its preparation if one hundred subscribers will put
down their names for it. Without this we could
not undertake it, as the labour of preparing and
printing would be so heavy. The name of each
subscriber would be printed in the volume. The
price to subscribers will be one guinea, which will
be increased on the day of publication. The
following names have come to hand : —

Mrs. Robb, 42, Rutland Gate, S. W.

Mr. A. B. Freeman-Mitford, Balsford Pari;

Gloucester.
Mr. W. E. (Imnbltton, Bel'/rove, Queenstoum, Co.

Cork.
Mr. E. II. Woodall, St. Nicholas House, Sear-

Itorough.
Mr. Granville Ryder; 60, Ennismore Gardens, S. W.
Mr. J. T. Bennet-Poc, 29, Ashley Place, S W.
Mr. Greenwood Pirn, Dublin.
Baron Von St. Paul, Silesia.
Miss Hulse, Shipley House, Carshalton.
Mr. I). T. Fish, Bury St. Edmunds.
Mr. W. Brocklia.nl; Manchester.
Mr. T. H. Archer-Hind, Newton Abbot.
Mr. G. Mv.irhead, Haddo House, Aberdeen.
Mr. F. W. Moore, Royal Botanic Gardens,

Glasnerin (2 copies).

TRADE NOTES.

Forestry honours. — The "honours diploma"
for the science and practice of forestry has been
granted to Mr. James William Watt, eldest son of
Mr. James Watt, by the Grand Ducal Forestry
College at Eisenach, in the duchy of Saxe-Weimar,
in which Government Academy of Forestry
he has been studying. He will henceforth be
associated with his father, the head of the seed
and nursery firm of Messrs. Little and Ballantyne,
Carlisle.

BOOKS RECEIVED.
"The Rosarian's Year-book for 1S95.'
Rev. H. H. D'Ombrain. Bemrose aud i

Bailey, E.C. ,,.,.,. j ,r. .
" Guide Elementaire de Multiplication des Vege-
taux." With 85 illustrations. S. Mottet. Octave Doin,
Paris.

Names of plants.— Edward Ingram.— Cypripe-
diiun Pauthieri.

Names of fruit.— Dunham Massey.— Pears : 1,
not recognised ; Applo,

By the
us, Old

THE GARDEN.

33

No. 1209. SATURDA Y, January 19, 18S5. Vol. XLVII.

" This Is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature."— Shakespeare.

Orchard and Fruit Garden,

to produce both good fruit and foliage for
decoration, I should rely on West's St. Peter's
with a certainty of its answering expectations.

W. G. C.

GRAPES WITH ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE.
There appears to be an increased demand for
Vine leases with beautiful tints during the early
winter months, not only for dishing up dessert,
but also for table decoration, and for dishing
white Grapes or any other fruit that is pale in
colour nothing sets it off to such advantage as
finely marked Vine leaves, the red in them
showing up the fruit beautifully and far better
than is possible with green foliage by lamp-light.
My ideas may perhaps be considered not up
to date in preferring green leaves for dishing up
black Grapes or any other fruit that is dark or
red in colour, but my contention is that the
green leaves form a better contrast than those
that are strongly marked with red, which is
too closely allied to the black or red in the
Fruit to show up in the best form. Again, un-
less the table is very large, I think Vine leaves,
although splendidly coloured, have a somewhat
heavy effect, and are neither so pretty nor effec-
tive as something smaller and lighter. However,
in many gardens it does not signify much what
the gardener may consider pretty or otherwise ;
he must do his best to try and meet the wishes
of his employers, and whatever they require
done, strive to do it well and thus give satisfac-
tion. Some ladies and gentlemen have been so
delighted with the use of coloured Vine leaves
for the purposes named, that a good price has
been paid for such foliage, and in one instance
a gardener had trouble because he could not
produce the same. Fortunately, evidence was
brought forward to prove that soil and its con-
stituents exercise an influence on the colouring,
and also that certain varieties will produce
lovely leaves in the autumn, while others fail to
do so in spite of all efforts. Out of many varie-
ties of Grapes grown in various parts and on
different soils, I never found any sort that would
equal West's St. Peter's for handsome foliage in
the autumn. The red in the leaves is deeper
and freely produced in both large and small
ones. All gardeners who are anxious to have
plenty of such foliage should make room for
this variety in one of the late vineries, as it
is a late Grape of good quality when well grown.
On our sandy soil Gros Guillaume always col-
ours well, the red running in hues up the ribs
of the leaf, but I do not consider this Grape
worth its room, as the flavour is at best only
indifferent. It is scarcely fit to be compared to
West's St. Peter's in either fruit or foliage.
Black Alicante produces a large percentage of
handsome foliage, not so deeply marked with
red as the preceding, but covered with small
blotches of red. Of late years these markings
have been more pronounced, which I attribute
to increased applications of potash. The same
effect has been observed in Gros Colman, but
why it is so much more apparent in some Vines
than others by their side is a question that I
cannot fathom. Another grand variety with
beautiful light red foliage in a late house is
Madresfield Court, every leaf being more or less
tinted. As previously stated, the soil may have
something to do with the colouring, especially
as regards one or two of the last-named, and
manuring with chemical compounds may also
bear on the matter, but if I had to plant a Vine

SHOULD VINE RODS BE SCRAPED t
Very many gardeners would unhesitatingly an-
swer this question in the negative, and so should
I not so very long ago. Now, if asked the ques-
tion, a more cautious reply would be given ; in
fact, the answer would be, It all depends upon cir-
cumstances. Personally, I have never advocated
hard scraping, nor any extreme measure of the
kind, but, on the contrary, have favoured the
practice of reserving as much of Nature's covering
as possible, without, however, going to the length of
wholly avoiding touching the bark. It has been
my misfortune to have mealy bug to contend with.
In order to get rid of this disgusting pest I have
been obliged to remove much of the loose bark and
scaly pieces about the joints of Vine rods, or
otherwise no amount of scrubbing with hot soapy
water and no insecticide strong enough to destroy
bug or its progeny would be of any avail. That,
however, was very different from skinning and
scraping the rods, the knife in some cases actually
cutting into the inner layer. This, accompanied
by a dressing of some home-made mixture, or worse
still petroleum in some form, is almost certain to
have a paralysing effect upon the Vines, the rods
breaking badly and also failing to make any
further real progress. These much-skinned rods
seem to shrink with age, and shanking of berries is
only one of the evils attending this extreme prac-
tice. One set of rods that came under my care
had been thus badly treated years before I saw
them, and they had never formed any fresh layers
of protecting bark, nor had they attained to half
the dimensions they ought to have reached at
their age. Nothing short of a complete change of
rods, young ones taking the place of the old ones,
proved of any availagainst shanking, and in about
six years the former were as large as the old ones,
the age of which no one could determine. In a
neighbouring garden the Vines stood out in
strong contrast to these. Such extraordinary
stems and rods of the same age were rarely
if ever seen, and the gardener in charge was
very proud of them and their produce, as
well he might be. Much of the vigour and
grand appearance of the rods was attributed to
the fact that they had never been skinned nor
even cleaned in any way, the bark actually hang-
ing loosely at places, and being of an extraordinary
thickness generally. That gardener would have
laughed derisively had I or anyone else insisted
that the time might come when even he would
find it necessary to clear his rods of much of the
outer or old bark, or otherwise fail to produce high-
class Crapes in quantity. Yet that time has
come, though not in the case of the Vines already
alluded to or in the same garden. In the fresh
locality the position was much hotter, the soil
much lighter, and the trees in the open generally
were usually more infested with insect pests than
is the case in cooler localities. Red spider soon
proved a great scourge, and in spite of sponging
the leaves repeatedly, sulphuring the hot-water
pipes, changing the surface soil, and frequently
drenching the borders, this pest gradually gained
the uoper hand, the first broods appearing
almost simultaneously with the young leaves.
After vainly contending against this tenacious
enemy, my friend has been obliged to change his
ideas and practices with regard to cleaning the
stems and rods. Last year they were skinned
moderately hard and red spider removed whole-
sale with the bark, this being followed with a
dressing of Cishurst compound mixed with clayey
water. It was hoped that enough had been done
to get rid of, or at any rate to check the attacks of
red spider, but the remedy was only partial. This
winter the bark has been taken off still more closely
and red spider again found hidden inshoals, and those
Vines are actually and of necessity being scraped
very hard with a view to clearing out every pos-

sible lurking place. Scrubbing with hot soapy
water and a dressing in which flowers of sulphur
is freely used follow upon the cleaning, while clay
is being very freely added to the border with a view
to rendering this far more retentive of moisture
than formerly. A more striking instance of the
necessity for a change of front I never met with,
and, to my friend's credit, he makes no attempt to
excuse himself for having at one time held to the
opinion and preached the doctrine of the wisdom
of letting Nature have its proper course. So long
as leaving the whole of the bark on the rods is not
the means of creating trouble in the shape of insect
attack, by all means let the natural covering of
the rods alone ; but when the day comes that the
bark must be sacrificed, or else the value of the
crops will be very greatly lessened, there should
be no hesitation as to which course to pursue. It
does not matter much if the rods do in time fail
to do their work properly, as they are very easily
replaced by young ones, and the change may be
advantageous in various ways. W. I.

NOTES ON PEARS.

It would be well if more readers of The Garden
would do as "Southron" has done, and give
some account of the ripening of the different
varieties of Pears, &C, from walls, pyramids,
and other positions. " Southron's " lot is evi-
dently cast in some favourable position in the
southern districts of England. A gardener in
Kent, Surrey, Essex, Sussex, etc. , has altogether
a very o-reat advantage over those placed in
more northern districts. In Essex at least, near
Ilford, about seven or eight miles east of Lon-
don I was much favoured last year. For
instance, during the severe visitation of frost in
Mav, when some gardeners in Surrey and Kent
had to contend with 10= to 12° of frost, I had
l°only • consequently no blossoms were touched,
nor any leaves injured. I fancy the thorough
drainage and good cultivation of the land upon
which the trees are planted have something to
do with their liability to suffer from the effects
of frost, and even to a greater extent in im-
proving the quality of the fruit To what
extent good cultivation might influence the
time of ripening of the fruit I am not prepared
to say I can confirm to some extent the ex-
perience of « Southron" as to the effect of wall
culture on some Pears. I grow that best of all
Pears, Doyenne du Cornice, planted out in the
open garden, and also planted against a wall
with a southern aspect. The pyramid trees in
the open are grafted on the Quince, the wall
trees on the Pear stock. The wall trees pro-
duce very much larger fruit, but, what is re-
markable, it was later in ripening and not nearly
equal in flavour to the smaller fruit gathered in
the open garden. Josephine de Malines I have
never grown on the wall, but have obtained
splendid fruit from pot trees grown m the
orchard house. It is also grown on the Quince
as a pyramid in the open garden. The trees
bore rather too much fruit this year ; conse-
quently it was neither large nor first-rate as re-
gards quality. The ^uit ripened early for that
variety, as I had not a single fruit eft at Christ-
mas which was not decayed at the centre I
gave up the culture of Beurre Ranee even when
double grafted, as recommended by a famous
fruitgrower, the fruit never being good enough
Beurre d'Aremberg is a free-bearing Pear of
medium size ; I rather like it as a pyramid on
the Quince. This season it ripened as Beurre
Superfin and Doyenne du Cornice went out,
and it does not soon decay -"he core like some
others. I like Pitmaston Duchess to last as
long as possible. There is nothing to boast
about as regards flavour, but the fruit is juicy
and of fair quality. I have been informed that
i I one of the most profitable Pears for market.

34

THE GARDEN.

[Jancary 19, 1895.

It is certainly not more than second-rate for
flavour, but the large size of the fruit, the noble
appearance of the trees when in full bearing, and
the almost certain prospects of acrop annually tell
in its favour. It does best on the Pear stock.
I pick the fruit at three different periods and
at intervals of about ten days. Brockworth
Park as a pyramid on the Pear stock has done
good service for the past fifteen years ; it has
also the merit of producing large handsome
fruit. Louise Bonne of Jersey does not seem
to hold the high position it did twenty-five years
ago, when Mr. G. F. Wilson used to produce
such splendid specimens from his pot trees. It
does best at any rate on free soil when worked
on the Quince, but I find even on medium clay
soils the trees make but poor growths on the
Quince, and if the soil is clayey, certainly they
ought to be on the free stock. Beurre Hardy
and Beurre d'Amanlis have gradually lost their
popularity ; in fact, any Pears ripening with
Beurre Superfin and Doyenne du Cornice are
at a great disadvantage. Williams' Bon Chre-
tien is best as a pyramid on the Quince ; it
is not worth a wall, but it will ever be grown
for its earliness, and the flavour is fairly good
if the fruit is not allowed to hang too long upon
the trees. I am not sure whether Uvedale's St.
Germain and Catillac are the best kitchen
Pears ; Verulam is a better cooking Pear than
either. Bellissime d'Hiver is a good cooking
Pear. Directeur Alphand I bought when it first
came out, expecting it to be a good late Pear,
ripening in March, but it has never yet come in
for dessert, although an excellent kind for cook-
ing.

I have but little experience of the newer
Pears. Conference and others of the English-
raised varieties seem to have been suffi-
ciently tested, and it would be interesting to
know how they have done in different soils
and various districts. I notice another variety
alluded to at p. 2 which certainly ought to be
in every collection — Marie Louise, but I have
never been able to obtain good fruits from trees
in the open garden, but wall fruit is always ex-
cellent. The best Jargonelles this year, or in-
deed in any season, I obtained from a wall with
a northern aspect. The fruit from standard
trees is of small size, but of very good quality.
Jargonelle when grown on a wall in the south-
eastern districts of Scotland surpasses all Pears.

As to the reason why certain Pears are in-
ferior one season and of good quality the next,
something, perhaps a great deal, depends upon
the season, but something also on the culture.
Some persons cannot be induced to drain the
ground as it ought to be, nor can they see
the value of trenching some soils or bastard
trenching others. When the ground is water-
logged for four or five months of the year the
temperature is lowered to a greater extent than
some people are aware of. Draining raises the
temperature and aerates the soil. .Another
great point in culture is to encourage the roots
to come near the surface by summer mulchings
and working the hoe well over the roots
early in the year. It has been proved that
the variation of temperature in the soil is
from 61° in summer 6 inches below the surface
to 44° at the depth of 3 feet ; between these
temperatures it was 57° at 9 inches and 50° at
18 inches deep. We can cure canker by drain-
ing the soil and raising the roots up to this
surface warmth, as I proved over and over
again when all superficial remedies had failed.
Fungoid growths of various kinds may often be
traced to undrained soils and bad cultivation.
A healthy tree is not so likely to suffer as one
which has become enfeebled by bad culture,
and when disease appears upon the leaves or

fruits superficial remedies are applied, while
the root of the evil is untouched. Another
evil to be avoided by those who would have
healthy trees and good fruit is not to purchase
badly cultivated trees to begin with. Many
persons go to the dealer who will sell for least
money, and the inexperienced amateur is often
deceived by the appearance of the trees, which
may have made plenty of strong shoots owing
to their growing too long in one position. When
such trees are lifted, or rather torn out of the
ground, there are scarcely any fibrous roots, and
the thick main roots are usually torn and broken
badly. Many of such trees die, and those that
live take years to recover, so that this supposed
economy of buying in the cheapest i market
proves to be the most expensive in the end.
My advice is, purchase the best trees to begin
with ; see that a good foundation is laid by well
preparing the ground ; plant the trees well,
and attend to their subsequent culture through
the summer months. J. Douglas.

Lady Downe's Seedling Grape. — I was

glad to see Mr. Douglas (p. 1) recommending this
excellent Grape. Owing to its modest appearance
as compared with more showy varieties, it is not
so much planted as its merits deserve. As a
market ({rape it is not to be compared with
Gros Colman, but in private gardens the latter
ought not to find a place. Lady Downe's will
produce the size of bunch specially adapted for
dessert, with a crispness and flavour all its
own, and particularly agreeable to the palate. I
think the tide of opinion is beginning to turn in
favour of higher quality in fruit, as demands have
been very good this season for Grapes of good
flavour.— W. G. C.

Melons. — The small green and scarlet-fleshed
Melons mainly grown in this country are all very
well in their way, but they are a costly luxury,
and only suitable for large gardens where all
the appliances are first-rate. In small places, if
the fruit can be raised at all, the family may get
a mouthful apiece of it at a cost of a pound or so.
The large field Melons of the south of France are
grown with the help of hotbeds right up to the
neighbourhood of Boulogne. These large fruits
would surely be much more satisfactory and give
a better and more appreciative return in ordinary
gardens in this country. The fruit may not be so
delicate in flavour as our choicest tender kinds,
but it is nevertheless delicious when ripe, and a
family can make a meal off one if so disposed. Any
one who can grow Cucumbers could apparently
grow these Melons. Failing a supply of the seeds
from our usual seedsmen, a stock can be easily got
by buying a Melon. — J. I. R.

Apple Barnack Beauty. — The question is
frequently asked why fruit growers, especially
those who grow for market, do not plant more
late Apples which they could sell at satisfactory
prices. In the future I believe that more late
varieties of Apples will be planted, as so many
growers have planted comparatively early sorts,
that when they attain a sufficient size to bear good
crops the markets will be glutted, and only those
men who grow the finest fruit and carefully pack it
will be able to obtain high prices, and even those
will be lowered by the mass of Apples put on the
market. An Apple that I feel sure will prove a
favourite with planters in the future is Barnack
Beauty ; the fruit is of nice size, beautifully col-
oured on the sunny side, heavy and firm, and will
keep perfectly sound into May or later if the sea-
sons have been favourable for well ripening.
Even in a season like the past one, in which
Apples have kept very badly, some varieties rot-
ting in a wholesale manner, scarcely a fruit of the
above has decayed. I have not grown Barnack
Beauty yet as a standard, but I believe it would
answer admirably, as the growth is strong, short-
jointed, and upright. As a bush tree it is all
that could be desired both on the Crab and Para-
dise stocks, and commences to crop freely the

second year after planting, being as free as Lane's
Prince Albert in that respect on our light soil.
Its upright growth renders it very suitable for
growing in bush form, as it does not require so
much room as those more diffuse in habit. The
trees if planted at 9 feet apart each way will not
become crowded for a number of years if properly
pruned and otherwise carefully attended to. This
Apple is not only likely to prove an acquisition to
market men, but also to private gardeners, who
generally have none too many varieties that will
keep up the supply late in the spring. That able
fruit grower, Mr. Woodward, of Barham Court
Gardens, has a very high opinion of Barnack
Beauty, as it does remarkably well with him in
Kent as well as with me in Herefordshire. —
G. C. R.

Mistakes in gardening. — Mr. Douglas pro-
bably has good cause for asserting (January 5,
p. 2) that an over-dry condition of the soil "is
a fertile source of cracking in Grapes." Possibly
he may at some time have had an unpleasant ex-
perience similar to that recorded by me. We
may, however, be consoled by the fact that the
most skilful gardeners are liable to err. Here is
a case in point. One of the most noted London
market growers had about 1000 Fuchsias coming
on for early bloom. Wishing to get them along
quickly, he ordered the man in charge to give them
a top-dressing of artificial manure. The man
thought the plants were hardly forward enough to
take it, but Mas over-ruled by his employer. The
result was most disastrous, and instead of these
plants being worth 12s. per dozen, they were not
worth so many pence. This was a grave error,
and one which Mr. Douglas would probably say
no good gardener would have committed. I should,
however, be sorry to make such an assertion, for
no more than "one swallow does not make a
summer " does one failure make a man a bad
gardener. — J. C. B.

UNFRUITFUL TREES.
If the greater portion of fruit trees grown in
this country only produced half a crop annually,
there would be nearly or quite enough to meet
all our requirements, while if they actually bore
full crops in years of plenty, then there would
be great gluts and much wasted fruit. As it
happens, there are great numbers of trees that
do not by any chance bear a good crop, and not
a few might be termed positively barren. In
some instances this unfruitfulness is traceable
to faulty treatment of either the branches or
roots, but in others it is very difficult to deter-
mine what is wrong. More often than not,
however, it may be attributed to the worn-out
state of both the trees and the borders, and,
according to what I have seen lately, it is in
town and suburban gardens where this is most
apparent. Those in charge cannot, as a rule,
be accused of neglecting the trees, but their
efforts have been ill-directed. They commence
by allowing the trees to assume all manner of
forms, while the laterals or spurs are rarely
shortened back hard enough for the walls to
afford an appreciable amount of warmth or pro-
tection. Instead of the spurs standing out from
0 inches to 12 inches from the walls, they ought
really to be almost close up to them, or say
not more than 3 inches away. Those long, ugly
spurs on Apricots, Plums, and Pears rarely pro-
duce fruit freely, or if they do, the quality is
never what it ought to be. If fruit can be
grown 'as', well or, perhaps, better in the open
than on the so-called wall trees, why go to the
great expense of constructing garden walls ?
The latter are certainly of service, inasmuch as
they shut out all intruders, but as good vege-
tables can be grown without their aid as with.
The same, however, cannot be said of fruit, as
that grown on properly managed trees against
walls will always surpass any of the same kind

January 10, 1?P5.]

THE GARDEN.

35

or variety grown quite in the open. The most
ought then to be made of every inch of wall
space. Instead of keeping trees year after year
in the hope they will eventually produca remu-
nerative crops of fruit, but which never come,
the better plan would be to root a few of them
out every season, their places being filled with
young trees of varieties of known all-round
excellence. Exceptions may be made in favour
of trees that are constantly growing most
vigorously, as the chances are these may
soon receive a check sufficient to bring them
into a more productive state, or this can also
be effected by root-pruning. Giving a tree
its head, that is to say, allowing the branches
a far greater spread than formerly, and, in par-
ticular, avoiding shortening the leading growths,
is a good way out of the difficulty ; but too often
walls surrounding small gardens are less than 10
feet high, and the trees have to be pruned harder
than is good for them accordingly. Whoever
saw a tree of Jargonelle Pear cropping freely
against a low wall ? To see this delicious variety
at its best the tres must have plenty of head
room, the front or sunny end of a dwelling-
house suiting it admirably. Other varieties of
Pears, and also Plums, generally succeed re-
markably well under similar conditions, a freely-
grown, irregular fan-shaped Plum tree fre-
quently producing enormous crops of fine fruit.
Let the trees then cover as much wall space as
possible, but do not allow them to form heads
above a wall, as these soon rob all the rest of
the tree of their share of food supply, and much
impoverished branches never yet produced good
crops of fruit. Excessive vigour must not be
met by light pruning, as far as the lateral shoots
are concerned, spurring these back to within
1 inch or so of their starting point being im-
perative for reasons already given, and the
remedy (root-pruning) lias also been alluded to.
When, however, the trees are unproductive,
owing to their weakly impoverished condition,
something ought to be done in the way of restoring
them to a more vigorous habit of growth. In
many instances (I am still thinking of town,
surburban and other small gardens) the trees,
or others before them, have so long occupied
the same site without any attempt being made
to restore any portion of the fertility the roots
have drawn out of the soil, that it is nothing to
be surprised at if the occupants simply dwindle
away, for that is what it amounts to, thousands
of trees being at the present time in a half-
dead state. What is wanted is a thorough change
of soil, and if fresh fibrous loam or the best
portion of the top spit of good pasture land
could be had, with perhaps some charred soil
and mortar rubbish added, nothing would better
suit the trees. Unfortunately, very few gar-
deners in charge of small places can get enough
of this for their Vines and potting even, and
supplying it to the ordinary wall trees is out of
the question. The next best thing would be
the substitution of good kitchen garden
soil, or any in which few or no tree roots
are found for the old border soil. It is not
merely the surface soil that should be used,
but in many cases the addition of the next 3
inches of that underneath would greatly improve
the mass. Naturally, soils vary largely in their
composition, not a little depending upon the
way they have been treated during the past few
years. According to my experience, small gar-
dens are rarely trenched, and, in fact, many of
them are only very slightly dug. Then, again,
lime is strange to most of them, and its use at
the rate of one half-bushel to the rod has been
known to work wonders where used for the first
time within the memory of those in charge.
The mixture of lime, or, better still, mortar

rubbish freely, as well as of good subsoil, is
most desirable for fruit trees, while if the soil
is naturally poor some good solid manure may
be added, and pulverised clay would greatly
improve the character of the lighter or non-re-
tentive soils. All this is suggested with a view
to showing that it is possible for energetic men
to grow fruit without so many loads of fresh
loam for their borders. The latter is desirable,
but not indispensable. Where young trees
take the place of old ones, they ought to have
wholly fresh soil, or compost as suggested, to
root in, and not merely a small quantity ; while
if older trees are to be resuscitated, a good-
sized trench should be opened in front of them
at a distance of 4 feet or rather more from the
stems, some of the roots traced out to nearer
the trees, these latter pruned and then relaid,
and the trench refilled with fresh compost.
Some of the surface soil ought also to be forked
away till the roots are found, and this also be
replaced with fresh soil. Not much alteration
for the better would be apparent during the
first season following upon root ''doctoring,"
but the fresh soil would be promoting and sus-
taining the spread of roots and the formation of
root-fibres, and this would not go on long with-
out a corresponding improvement in the top
growth and productiveness of the trees. Much
in many cases might be done by baring the top
roots to a distance of 4 feet from the walls, sur-
facing heavily with good half-decayed manure
and covering this with soil. I have known this
greatly benefit Pear trees that previously had
failed repeatedly to produce presentable fruit.
Watering during the winter whenever there is
no frost in the ground with strong liquid ma-
nure, such as the drainings from farmyards,
stables, and piggeries, only diluting where little
water runs into the cesspools, is a very simple
and inexpensive way of enriching a border, and
cottagers whom I have induced to try this
remedy for starved, unproductive trees have
had good reasons for being grateful for the
suggestion. Unfruitful

Trees in the Oten

are also far too plentiful. Espalier-trained and
cud. .ns may be treated much as advised in the
case of trees against walls, not a few of the
former proving little better than cumberers of
the ground. Some of them are suffering from
lackof food at the roots, but the great majority
are either deriving more than they require
from ground about them that has been heavily
manured for vegetables, or else are being driven
to root deeply, owing to a reckless use of the
spade close up to the stems, excessive top-
growth being the consequence in either case.
Root-lifting and pruning and more rational
treatment afterwards are the remedies for this
state of affairs. Cordons badly managed are
the least productive of all trees- at any rate
they produce little else than rank growth. Un-
less these are lifted and root-pruned every second
or third year they cannot often be kept from
forming too much wood, and in numerous in-
stances might well have their trained branches
cut away and the strong central growths allowed
to grow naturally and freely, productive bushes
or pyramids resulting in the course of three or
four years. Those standards, pyramids and
bushes that fail to bear fruit owing to their ex-
cessively vigorous growth ought for the next
two or three seasons to be much more li

is every likelihood of fruit-buds forming along
their entire length. Those standards, pyramids
and bushes that fail to bear satisfactorily, owing
to their stunted state, should be assisted at the
roots, much as advised in the case of starve-
lings against walls, liquid manure in particular
being desirable for any too large to be easily
partially lifted and given a liberal supply of
fresh compost at the roots. Chemical manures
wash down readily into and are absorbed by cul-
tivated ground, and a dressing of 2^ lbs. of
superphosphate of lime mixed with 1J lbs. of
nitrate of soda to every square rod of ground
occupied by the fruit tree roots would soon
benefit the trees, greatly improving the quality
of what fruit does form and promoting more
vigorous wood growth. It is the latter that is
required to put new life into old trees, and if
a good sprinkling of shoots can be forced out
of any that have previously failed to grow satis-
factorily, this will be found a step in the right
direction. Either leave such shoots to their
full length or else (in the case of trained trees)
cut away about one-half. Eventually these
young branches should take the place of some
of the worn-out older ones. Selwooh.

'itly

pruned than formerly, those in charge content-
ing themselves with thinning out young growths
where crowded, leaving those best placed to
their full length. If shortened, however lightly,
little else but wood-growth at the ends will
result ; whereas if left to their full length there

Dry fruit borders. — I have this season had
occasion to lift a number of young fruit trees
planted four years ago, and was surprised to find
the soil at 2 feet from the surface quite dry.
Doubtless the drought of 18!t3in many soils caused
a lot of dropping of fruit last season, also small
fruit. In my case there was a heavy mulch of
decayed manure, the trees were well watered
twice a week, and yet the soil was dust-dry. I
admit the border was sloping and the trees
vigorous, being cordon Pears, but one would
scarcely think after the excessive rainfall last year
such a state of things would exist. I noted the
failure of some large Morello Cherries last season.
There was plenty of fruit, but it was very small.
On removing the soil between the trees it was
equally dry. These trees are at the back of fruit
houses and not watered much, being on a north
wall, but even here the rainfall had not got under
the large mass of fibrous roots. — G. W.

Flavour in Pears. — I was much interested in
the observations of " Southron " (p. 2) on the pre-
mature ripening and flavour of Pears. Although
not an advocate for planting any variety of
Pear away from the influence of walls, I quite
agree that the flavour of many varieties is
much improved by growing the trees in the
open. Beurre Ranee and Josephine de Malines,
if grown in the open, never get beyond the tough
stage ; grown on a western aspect they are not
much better. Such early varieties, however,
as Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurre d'Amaulis,
Mme. Treyve, and Louise Bonne of Jersey are
decidedly better in flavour when grown in the
open, a freer circulation of air and more direct
sunshine reaching the fruits. Such varieties as I
have named, on account of their earliness, are very
often planted against walls with an eastern aspect.
The trees crop freely, and the fruit also grows to
a good size, but this is no criterion that the flavour
is equally satisfactory. Marie Louise with me is
too tender for growing in the open, as also is
Beurre Superfin. Not a mile away the varieties
named succeed admirably, but the soil, overlying
the old red sandstone, is much warmer and lighter,
the position also being lower.— Y. A. H.

Hunt's Tawny Nectarine.— I think it
would be difficult to find a better Nectarine for
early forcing than this old variety. True, it is not
so large as many, but it is a never-failing cropper
and possesses a 'hardy constitution. I have heard
it said that it is liable to mildew, but I have never
found this to be the case. The flavour is average,
the flesh yellow, and the outward appearance
similar to that of Humboldt and Pine-apple.
There is a tree at Gunton which has been forced

for many years. D. T. Fish referred to it in The

Garden some years ago, and in spite of the intro-

3G

THE HARDEN.

[January 19, 1895.

duction of 60 many newer and larger varieties',
Hunt's Tawny is still retained. Were I furnishing
lin • arly house of Peaches and Nectarines I should
ceitainlj include Hunt's Tawny. — J. C.

Peach Desse Tardive. — My experience of
this is that it is a very uncertain variety, although
large and, for a late Peach, of good flavour. It is
not altogether a new Peach, as I first saw it some
t wenty years ago in the gardens at Coombe Lodge,
Wai It y, Essex. It grew on a back wall of a lean-
to house and produced fruit in plenty, of enor-
mous size and extra good appearance. Since then
I have seen it in various places, but never in a
satisfactory condition. It is grown at Gunton and
Blickling, but does not, I think, crop well. 1
had a healthy tree under glass for five years,
but have now rooted it up. — C. H. N.

1

NOTES ON GRAPES.

The leading article by Mr. J. Douglas on p
(.Tan. 5) will have been read with interest by
tl ose who have to produce Grapes for home
consumption or the market, and few, if any, will
be found to differ from his opinion respecting
quality and appearance as affecting market
i r.d home consumption. I could not help, how-
ever, being struck with the decidedly inferior
position Alicante holds in his estimation as
regards quality and the limited assortment
advised for a large establishment, and I ven-
ture tt> think, whether rightly or wrongly, that
there are not so many large gardens in which so
few are represented as Mr. Douglas advises.
If Mrs. Pince could be produced in such per-
fection as was noticed at the great Crystal
Palace fruit show last autumn with the same
certainty as Alicante, there would not be any
doubt about its value for any purpose, but,
most unfortunately, it is seldom seen in such
perfection, and it has a decidedly bad reputa-
tion among growers generally by reason of its
indifferent colour. Mr. Young, of Abberley
Hall, is, I believe, among the few who can
claim the secret of growing Mrs. Pince Muscat
to perfection. I was once shown a photograph
of some noble bunches of this Grape grown by
Mr. Young, and I remember on being asked
what I should consider them to be, remarking
that I should suppose them to be good Ali-
cantes, such bunches, colour, and berries I had
never before seen represented in Mrs. Pince.
Those referred to at the Palace show last
autumn were, judging from memory, very
similar to Mr. Young's, the bunches, berries,
and particularly the colour being especially
fine. No doubt Mr. Douglas and Mr. Young
have both discoursed on the treatment of the
Vine in question in The Garden, but to new
readers the "secrets" of producing perfect
examples would be especially valuable, and
possibly to older readers too, for there are
without doubt a great many who for some
reasou or other fail to make a reputa-
tion by growing it imperfectly. In its
usual " foxy " skin it does not look very
tempting in appearance, and where this is so
much studied, Alicante as well as Gros Col-
man displace it. There may be nothing sin-
gular in it, but I think it is a fact that gar-
deners' ideas are moulded very much by the
likes and dislikes of their employers, on these
two points in particular — appearance and quality
— and I cannot help thinking that Mr. Douglas
has been in touch with those of very superior
taste, because it is clearly apparent that quality
has a decidedly prominent tendency in the selec-
tion of sorts recommended by him in his notes.
For late keeping, Lady Downe's has no rival,
and of its quality I have never heard any com-
plaint. Is it possible for Grapes to vary in
quality from one season to another — that is,

when given the same treatment and under
good culture 1 A gardener of Grape-growing
fame lately remarked to me that his Lady
Downe's were really better this year than lie can
ever remember them before, and 1 know his are
always first class in every respect. The differ-
ence is, perhaps, more a question of fancy than
reality, yet at the same time the season and
minor differences in the matter of treatment
might effect a variation. I am, of course, speak-
ing of the comparison at a corresponding date
from one season to another. There is usually a
standard from which there is loss or gain in
keeping, more or less, but it would be interest-
ing to learn the views of other readers on the
point. The garden in which Venn's Muscat
originated I know very well, and 1 have heard
the late Mr. Sweeting, its raiser, often speak of
the favourable impression it created in its earliest
days, but the leng house built especially for it
has ere this been planted with other and more
easily grown varieties, as it developed the same
trait as in other gardens— stoneless berries and
shanking. Venn's Muscat would appear to be
gone almost out of cultivation ; seldom is the
name mentioned or the variety noticed. There
is not much doubt of its identity with Muscat
Hamburgh, and that which gained for it its
name and former reputation is attributable only
to the vigour derived from the seedling stage of
life. Large sums were offered the raiser for his
stock at the time when it was first exhibited, but
it was respectfully declined, he having decided
to distribute it himself, and a large structure was
built purposely for growing it as a market Grape.
In one of Mr. Venn's vineries was a Muscat of
Alexandria grafted on a Syrian stock, and al-
though the character of the Muscat was perfect
as a natural consequence, the flavour was
changed, and resembled that of the Syrian.
I tasted berries myself from the Vine in ques-
tion, and have never met with a similar inci-
dent. I saw last year two rods cf Muscat of
Alexandria. One had been inarched on a Lady
Downe's and the other on Gros Maroc, and the
difference in the crop was very marked, that on
Lady Downe's not being nearly so good as on
the other. The object in this case was to con-
vert a house planted with a mixed variety into
a Muscat house alone, other Vines being
Alicante, Black Hamburgh, and Gros Colman.
All these were doing particularly well, but
were not in such a forward state in fruit beart
ing as the two first-named. All the Vines were
young and wonderfully vigorous, and it was
thus the more remarkable that the Muscat was
fruiting so indifferently on the Lady Downe's
stock. Wiltshire Gardener.

Orchids.

SHORT NOTES.— FRUIT.

Peach Dymond. — The late Mr. Wildsmith spoke
highly of this Peach for open-air culture. I, too,
think it is one of the best Peaches grown. It suc-
ceeds here against a west wall, giving a full crop of
large, highly coloured fruit of excellent flavour. I
always recommend this Peach now when asked as to
the best sorts to plant. — E. M.

Peach Dr. Hogg. — I am not much surprised to
hear that this Peach forces well. Twenty years since
I grew it with much satisfaction, having previously
heard it well spoken of by a capable fruitgrower. The
growth is vigorous, the fruit large and richly coloured.
In spite of these points in its favour it is not grown so
largely as it deserves. — E. II.

Apple Lane's Prince Albert.— I was some-
what surprised to And from the remaikof "S. W. F."
(p. 23) that this variety is liable to canker. It is the
first time I have heard the faintest suspicion of such
a thing. Here I grow over 100 trees of this Apple and
in strong soil, and still there are no signs of canker.
Some constitutional element in the soil seems to point
striHugly to the cause of canker in Apple trees. —
E.M.

POTTING ORCHIDS.

Although there are not many Orchids that re-
quire repotting now, the busiest time of the
year is not far distant, and a good supply of
materials should be got in readiness for the pur-
pose. The plants in baskets, on blocks, and in
cylinders should be looked over in order to
estimate what number and sizes of these will be
required, and these should be procured without
delay. A good stock of pots of various sizes
should also be washed ready for use, as it is bad
management to have to wait for pots when the
work of repotting should be in full swing. If
new pots are to be used, they should be soaked
in water for a day beforehand. Much time will
be saved by having the Sphagnum Moss picked
over and washed ready for use, a good lot of
points being reserved for surfacing. The
rougher parts may be kept for covering the
drainage and for chopping up, to be mixed with
the compost for terrestrial Orchids, as Cypripe-
diums and Calanthes. Some dealers now supply
Orchid peat ready for use by having all sand and
earthy particles removed. This effects a great
saving in labour and also in carriage when it has
to be sent a long distance by rail. Although
rather higher in price, it is for this reason
cheaper than buying peat in turves, unless the
residue can be used for Rhododendrons or other
rough purposes. Terrestrial Orchids such as
named above need a good proportion of loam in
the compost, and this should be obtained of as
fibrous a character as possible, and have most of
the fine soil sifted out in the same manner as the
peat. These, with a stock of clean crocks and
charcoal broken to various sizes, will be the
chief requisites for Orchid potting. Sand I
have not mentioned, as I think it very bad for
the great majority of Orchids, and one that may
easily be dispensed with for any. With regard
to the quantity of each material required, this
will depend upon the class of Orchids to be
potted. For the purpose of this note Orchids
may be roughly divided into three groups.
The first would be the distichous-leaved plants
with upright stems, as Aerides, Saccolabiums,
and Vandas. None of these show any great
liking for peat, but take well to layers of living
Sphagnum with charcoal or potsherds freely
intermixed to ensure aeration and prevent the
too rapid decay and consequent souring of the
mass. The second— and this constitutes by far
the majority of Orchids in general cultivation-
is the pseudo-bulbous division of epiphytes, as
Cattltyas, Dendrobes, Odontoglots, and a host
of others. A mixture of peat and Sphagnum
will be the basis of the compost for all these,
the quantities of each varying a little according
to the habit and liking of the individual spe-
cies. The third group would consist of terres-
trial Orchids and those which, though naturally
epiphytal, are found under cultivation to thrive
best in a compost similar to that used for the
terrestrial group. This, as mentioned above,
will consist partly of fibrous loam, with peat and
chopped Sphagnum added in varying quanti-
ties. From the above an idea may be formed
of the proportionate amount of each requisite,
and if these are all prepared, together with a
few neat stakes and labels during the dull sea-
son, the pressure of work later on will be con-

siderably lessened.

H. R.

DendrobiumWardianum.— Thiswell-known

Orchid is among the most beautiful and showy

now in flower. The Burmese form grows much

more strongly than the type, and also appears to

I flower earlier. |This is known as D. Wardianum

January 19, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

37

Lowi and also as giganteum. The flowers of the
best varieties are 5 inches across and produced
upon the leafless pseudo-bulbs of the previous
year's growth in twos and threes, as many as
thirty being sometimes produced upon a single
stem. In the culture of this species the chief
point is to get the growth well ripened as early
as possible in autumn and to give the plants a de-
cided period of rest before being introduced again
to heat. Large pots are not required, as the more
crowded the roots are the better the plants
thrive. I remember being very much struck by a
plant some years ago grown by Mr. E. S. Cole
when gardener at Woodside, Stoke Bishop This
had several pseudo-bulbs at least 1 yard in length,
and was growing in a piece of cocoa-nut shell
about 2h inches or 3 inches across, the natural
apertures in the shell allowing the surplus water
to escape. At this time of the year, when the
young growths are appearing at the base of the
pseudo-bulbs, great care must be exercised in
watering, or the young shoots will damp oft'
wholesale. On dull cold clays the plants will be
much better without any water, giving a good
soaking when the weather is tine and allowing
them to get quite dry before being again watered.
They must be allowed to grow quite naturally and
not be staked or tied in any way, or the beauty of
the plants when in flower will be spoilt. — H. K.

Cypripedium callosum superbum. — One of

the best forms of this tine Cypripedium I lately
noted in bloom. The flower is borne upon an
erect scape about a foot in height, and is well set
off by the finely tessellated, deep green foliage.
In this variety the dorsal sepal is large and very
broad, pure white over two-thirds of its surface,
with long and short veins of a rich vinous purple
colour. The petais are broad, heavily shaded
with purplish rose, and spotted on the upper
margins only, with several large blackish warts.
The typical form of this species was introduced
from Siam ten years ago by M. Regnier, of Paris,
and is a decided acquisition. It flowers during
the early months of the year, and equals, and in
some instances surpasses, in the size and beauty
of the dorsal sepal any other kind yet seen.
— W.

Cypripedium Lathamianum is a very
pretty hybrid, raised by Mr. Latham, curator
of the Birmingham Botanic Gardens, between C.
Spicerianum and C. villosum. A flower of this is
sent by " C. W.," but it appears tome to be a
very pale variety, and might be said to be near
the C. Leo raised by Mr. Lee, and which may be
described as a very pale form of this kind. I re-
cently noticed in Messrs. Peed and Sons' nurseries
at Tulse Hill a very nice variety, the dark purple
line in the upper sepal as well as the central
stripe down each petal being very pronounced.
— G.

Oncidium tigrinum ( W. Mace) .— From this
correspondent comes a bloom of this Orchid. He
says he bought it under the name of Oncidium
Barkeri, and is disappointed that it has turned out
different from his expectations. Both these names
are identical, and it is rarely that it is called at
the present day 0. Barkeri, it being too well
known by its proper name. This, one of the
finest Mexican Orchids we have, was dis-
covered early in the present century and des-
cribed in 18'25 as O. tigrinum, but upon its being
introduced in a living state about 1840 it received
the name of O. Barkeri from Dr. Lindley, who did
not identify it with the herbarium specimens. — W.

Lselia ancepe. — From Mr. James Cypher, of
the Queen's Road Nurseries, Cheltenham, comes a
box containing some beautiful white varieties of
Ladia anceps. Amongst them the following kinds
are decidedly worthy of notice : L. a. alba, a flower
of fine form, being entirely pure white, excepting
the yellow crest on the lip and a few purple lines
on the interior of the side lobes ; L. a. Hilliana,
a very distinct form with white sepals and petals,
the side lobes of the lip flushed and margined with
amethyst- purple, whilst the acute front lobe is
bright purple at the tip, and with a large orange-
yellow disc. L. a. Percivaliana is a very delicate

and pretty kind, the lip being pale rose and the
other segments pure white The best flower in
the whole was one unnamed. This measured
about 5 inches across and much resembled the rare
L. a. Dawsoni both in shape and markings. The
sepals and petals are of the purest white, the latter
very broad ; the side lobes of the lip large, beau-
tifully expanded and streaked with purple lines ;
whilst the front lobe is of a bright rich purple,
margined with white. This is one of the finest
varieties I have seen. These white forms of this
popular Lselia are amongst the most beautiful
kinds we have, and require a somewhat warmer
temperature than the typical and dark-coloured
varieties. — H.

Odontoglossum bictonense. — It appears
rather late in the season for this interesting plant
to be in bloom, but some flowers have just come
to hand from "C. W." The usual timeforthisspecies
to bloom is from about September until the end
of November. The flowers before me are very
small, and I would advise "C. W." not to allow
large spikes to remain upon newly-imported
plants, as this materially weakens the constitution
of the plant and very often kills it. A far better
plan is to allow only one or two flowers to develop
upon the first spike produced, and as soon as these
are fully open, so that the variety may be deter-
mined, the spike should be removed. This will
enable all the strength to be thrown into the
plant, it thus becoming better established before
flowering next season. O. bictonense is a native
of Guatemala, and was first introduced into
cultivation just sixty years ago. The flowers,
borne upon an erect spike, are yellowish-green,
blotched with brown, the lip pale rose. This is
the typical form, but many varieties have since
appeared, among them being roseum, with a deep
rose lip, the other segments reddish - brown ;
album, with brownish segments and a clear white
lip ; and sulphureum, with yellow sepals and
petals and a white lip. — W.

0. PT/LCHELI.UM DORMANIAXUM. This is no
doubt the finest form of O. pulchellum, a nice
specimen of which I recently saw in the collection
of the gentleman whose name it bears. The
pseudo-bulbs are not so long as in the typical
kind and the flowers are much larger, the seg-
ments broader even than in the form majus.

a Wm. Hugh Gower.

ODONTOGLOSSUM PULCHELLUM.

This pretty species appears to have been scarce
for many years after its introduction, which was
about fifty-four years ago. It was first dis-
covered by Mr. Ure-Skinner in Guatemala, and
deserves a place in every collection. The cul-
tivation of this plant is by no means difficult,
as it is found in a wild state at considerable ele-
vation, and will therefore thrive with the other
Odontoglossums in the cool house. Whilst the
plants are in flower, which will be during the
present and the next two or three months, it
will be found beneficial to remove them to a
drier atmosphere, where the blooms will con-
tinue longer in perfection. 0. pulchellum should
be potted in fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss,
with good drainage, the plants being well ele-
vated above the rim, and at no time must they
be allowed to get dry at the roots. The flowers
are borne upon erect scapes, which are longer
than the leaves, and the blooms generally num-
ber from five to a dozen upon a spike. These
are very distinct and very fragrant. The indi-
vidual flowers appear upside down, that is, the
lip is the uppermost portion of the flower. The
flowers are pure white, with the exception of
the large yellow disc of the lip, where it is finely
spotted with reddish crimson. Amongst the
importations which have from time to time
arrived there have appeared several fine varieties,
one being

O. pulchellum majus, a decided improvement
on the typical form. In this variety the pseudo-
bulbs are larger and the plant of more robust
growth, the flower-spike also stronger and more
thickly set with blooms, which are as large again
as in the type. It is also known in our gardens
as O. pulchellum grandiflorum. During more
recent years, however, a still more beautiful va-
riety has appeared, and which is named

Cattleya speciosissinia. — This fine Cattleya
belongs to the " labiata " section, and is one of
the largest flowering kinds known. It usually
produces its blooms during the latter part of the
year upon the young growths which may be just-
completed, and without any decided period of
rest ; therefore if " W. J. T.'s " plant has not yet
shown any signs of flowering he must wait until
new bulbs are formed, for it will not bloom from
old bulbs. It has been known in our gardens for
a number of years, and should be grown in the
Cattleya house suspended near the light. It is a
native of Venezuela, and was first introduced in
quantity by Messrs. Low and Co. — W. H. (1.

Cypripedium Vesta. — This is a cross between
C. Harrisianum andC. Spicerianum. From these
two kinds we have several fine hybrids, including
C. l'itcherianum and its varieties, C. Adonis, C.
Savageanum, and the reverse, C. Seegerianum,
&c, all of which, however, are totally distinct
from C. Vesta. This was raised by Mr. Norman
in The Firs collection, Laurie Park, Sydenham,
C. Harrisianum being the seed -bearing parent.
It was hybridised in December, 1889, and the seed
was sown exactly twelve months later. The foliage
is reticulated and much like that of the seed-bear-
ing parent, and the bloom is borne upon an erect
stout stem. This is bold, and a charminy com-
bination between the two kinds above mentioned.
The dorsal sepal is large, purewhite, slightly green
at the base, where it is shaded rose and has a highly-
coloured central line. The petals are very broad,
slightly wavy, and measure nearly 5 inches across,
with a well-defined mid-line of purple colour, the
upper half soft light brown, the lower part light
green and finely spotted at the base. The lip is
pale green, flushed with brown. — W.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Dendrobium Dominianum. — This is a cross
between D. nobile and D. Linawianum, and inter-
mediate in character. The blooms are mauve-purple
at the tips, almost white at the base, the petals of a
brighter shade than the sepals, whilst the lip is white,
with a maroon-purple disc. — G.

Dendrobium nobile nobilius (Ed. Ingram).
— The flowers to hand under this name are not of
this fine variety, but of a grod form of the type.
The true D. nobile nobilius is still a rare plant.
The sepals and petals are heavily suffused with rosy
purple, deeper towards the tips, whilst the blotch on
the lip is intense crimson-maroon.— W.

Cypripedium insigne.— It is astonishing what
a large quantity of this tine old plant is now grown for
cut blooms, a large number of' flowers finding their
way daily into Covent Garden Market. For decora-
tion of all kinds there is no better kind than this
species, for its blooms are of a pleasing shade of yel-
low, and will last for a considerable time in perfection.
— G.

Cypripedium Goultenianum.— I recently
noticed tins pretty hybrid in flower at Sydenham. It
is the result of crossing C. callosum with C. Curtisi,
and forms a nice combination. It has a fine dorsal
sepal, heavily veined and shaded with bright rose, and
long drooping petals, light at the base, but changing
to rose at the tips, and spotted with large blackish
spots, the lip more resembling that of C. Curtisi. — H.

Calanthe Veitchi. — A fine display of this
charming winter-bloomiug plant is now to be seen in
Messrs. Laing and Sons' nurseries at Forest Hill.
The bright rose-coloured flowers, which are pro-
duced freely, are very welcome during these dull
days, and with a little care a good succession of
blooms may be maintained for a considerable time.
This fine old hybrid Calanthe is of great service
where cut blooms are in demand.— W.

38

THE (iARDEN.

[January 19, 1894.

ART IX RELATION TO FLOWER-
GARDENING AND GARDEN DESIGN.

There is no reason why we should not have
true art in the garden, and there is much
reason why we should have it. There is no
reason why a garden should he ugly, bare,
conventional, or stereotyped, though most gar-
dens are so. The word "art" being used in
its highest sense here, it may perhaps be
well to justify its use. As good a definition
of the word as any perhaps is " To see and give
form to beautiful things." We see it in
its highest expression in Greek sculpture
ami in the works of the great old masters
of painting, and in good landscape paint-
ing. But art is of many kinds, and the
word is frequently applied in our own time
to trifling ornament often overdone. Owing
to the loose, "critical" talk of the day, it is
not easy for everyone to get hold of the
central truth of art, i.e., clear-eyed study and
love for Nature rather than invention and
the bringing of the " personality " of the
artist into the work of
which we hear so much.
AVe should understand
first of all that the work
of the true artist is al-
ways marked by its fidelity
to Nature. Proof of it
may be seen in many
places, in our National
Gallery and the Louvre :
and the greatest art gal-
leries being now open to
all, there is little to pre-
vent the simplest person
proving what is said here
about pictorial art in its
highest expression.

But as a number of
people unfortunately write
much about art in the
magazines and papers with-
out having first received any training
which enables them to see its laws, there
is consequently infinite, confusion in many
minds about it. One may read book
after book and essay after essay about
art without being brought a bit nearer to
,the simple truth. Artists, brush in hand,
will urge the false idea that it is not by ob-
serving, but by inventing and supplementing
that success is arrived at. The strong man
must be there certainly, but his true work is
to see the whole beauty of the subject and to
help us to see it, not to distort it in any way
for the sake of making it merely singular.
This, it is true, is often done as an easy way to
popularity, but in the end it means bad
work, and only the good work lasts. Other
work may be the fashion for a season, owing
to some one quality ; but it is soon found
out, and we have again to return to the great
masters of all ages, who are always dis-
tinguished for truth to Nature.

The tiuth of the thing in all its fulness is
almost the whole of the question, but the
critics of the day will not take the trouble
to see this. Artists, men of education,

and gentlewomen write essays on art in
which many unmeaning and misused words
occur, but in which we may not once
meet with the word truth. "Realism"
and " idealism " are words freely used, and
thoroughly bad pictures and examples are
Bnownusas examples of realism when they are
only remarkable for leaving out all the refine-
ment, subtlety, truth of tone, and perhaps
even the very light and shade in which all
things we see are set. They leave out
all the refined charms visible to those who
look at Nature as well as at pictures, and
then condemn the result as "realism." The
man who will not take the trouble to see the
beauty of the real is sure to go astray in quest
of the " ideal."

There are men so blind to the beauty
of the things set before their eyes in skj',
sea, or earth, that they would seek to
idealise the eyes of a beautiful child or the
clouds of heaven ; while all real students of
natural beauty in landscape know that no
imagining can come near to the beauty of

Laxt expression of carpet gardening at Chicago.

things seen, art being powerless to seize their
full beauty, and the artist has often to let
the brush fall in despair. Only a little, in-
deed, of the beauty that concerns us most—
that of the landscape — can be seized for us
except by the very greatest masters. Of
things visible to us — flower, tree, landscape,
sky, or sea — to see the full and every varied
beauty is to be saved for ever from any
Will-o'-the-wisp of the imaginary. The real
is the fullest beauty.

But many people do not fudge pictures by
Nature, but judge them by pictures, and
therefore they miss the subtleties of Nature,
and all those delicate facts of light and shade
on which all true work so largely depends.
Many of them sneer at those who " copy
Nature," but the answer to such critics is for
ever there in the great work of the great men,
be they Greeks, Dutchmen, Italians, French,
or English.

It it is essential to remember that part of
the work of the artist is choice of subject —
the selection of beautiful or memorable things,
not necessarily the first things that come in
his way. The "Venus of Milo is from noble

type of woman — not a mean Greek. The
horses of the Parthenon are the best types
of Eastern breed, full of life and beauty.
Great landscape painters, like Croine, Corot,
and Turner, seek not ugly things be-
cause they are natural, but beautiful com-
binations of field, and hill, wood, water,
tree, and flower, and grass, selecting views
which are good in composition, and then
waiting for the most beautiful effects of
morning, evening, or whatever light suits the
chosen subject best, to give us lovely and true
pictures ! But they work always from faithful
study of Nature and from stores of knowledge
gathered from her, and that is the only true
path for the gardener, all true art being
based on her eternal laws. All deviation from
the truth of Nature, whether it be from the
hands of Greek, Italian, or other artist,
though it may pass for a time, is in the end
found out and, it may be ages after the artist
is dead, classed as debased art.

Why need so much be said about art ?
Because once we see the meaning of true "art"
we can have no patience
with what is ugly and
false in art, and it becomes
impossible for us to have
the foregrounds of the
fairest of cultivated land-
scape scenery daubed with
a flower garden like a
coloured lithograph. Many
feel the right way from
their own sense being tru',
but others will be the
better for seeing proofs of
what is urged here as to
the true source of lasting
work in art in the work
of the great artists of all
time. And we may be as
true artists in the garden
as anywhere else.

So far we have spoken
great work of the true artist, which
distinguished by respect for
Nature and by keen study of her. But
apart from such we have a great many men
who do what is called "decorative" work of
a wholly different kind, useful it may be,
but still not art in the high sense of delight
and study in things as they are. I mean the
whole class of decorative artists, who make
our carpets, tiles, our curtains, and many other
things of the kind. Skill in this way may
be considerable without any attention what-
ever being paid to the greater and the higher
art of which we have spoken, that art being
concerned with life in all its fulness, the de-
corative "art" being the adapting of con-
ventional or geometric forms mostly to flat
surfaces.

This it is necessary to clearly understand,
because for the flower gardener it is every-
thing on which side he stands,
our gardeners for ages have
the hands of the decorative
applies his conventional art to
for which it is clearlv unfit.

of the
is always

Unhappily,
suffered at
artist, who
the garden,
Patterns

which may be quite right on a flat sur-

Jan cab y 19, 1895.1 THE GARDEN. 39

face like a carpet or wall paper have been places show us how much has to be learnt by rest his eyes on a cottage garden, and
applied a thousand times to the surface of ■ others. The men whose taste we should respect may make a beautiful picture of it, because
the reluctant earth. We see this in many as judges are those whose life-work it is to the cottage garden is itself a picture in
gardens and in many books ; it is, indeed, \ study and portray beautiful, natural forms. | thousands of cases. Why should the cottage
this adapting of absurd knots and patterns I To these men the modern garden is no more i garden be a picture when the gentleman's
from old books to any surface where a flower interesting than an oilcloth pattern, because garden is not? The reason is, that one sees
garden has to be made that leads to deplor- \ instead of beautiful things we see emphasis : the plants and the vegetation not set out in
able design wrong in plan and impossible given to mere pattern-work and flowers very | any offensive, geometrical or conventional plan

as an abode for plants.
It is so easy for anyone
asked for a plan to furnish
one of this sort without
the slightest knowledge of
the life of a garden, the
needs of the plants of
which should govern the
design.

For ages the poor gar-
dener has been troubled
by trying to adapt him-
self to absurdities of this
kind of work as regards
plan, and for ages the
beds in these plans were
adorned with flowers in
more or less simple and
natural ways. But in our
own time the same "deco-
rative"' idea has come to be
carried out in the planting
of the beds themselves
under the name of " bed-
ding out," carpet bedding,
or "mosaic culture," of
which, notwithstanding
the many changes for the
better of recent years, we
see so many examples
everywhere. In this the
beautiful forms of flowers
are degraded to the level
of crude colour just to
make a design and with-
out reference to the form
or beauty of the plants.
When these tracery gar-
dens were made, often by
people without any know-
ledge of the plants of a gar-
den, they were found to be
difficult to plant ; hence
the desire to do without
the gardener altogether
and get colour by the use
of broken brick, white
sand, and painted stone,
as at Kensington and
various private places in
our own day. All such
work is wholly wrong and
degrading to the art of
gardening, and in its ex-
treme expressions is ridi

An English cottage garden. Si7nple$t expression of the beautiful garden.

A simple plan is necessary,
but in the making of
a garden the plan should
be subordinate to the liv-
ing things. Here is an
engraving of a very small
cottage garden in Oxford-
shire to show what is an
artistic garden in its
simplest expression. There
was very little in this
beyond the Monthly Rose
and a few Pansies and the
tree beyond, and yet it
was right and beautiful.
There are many better in
every county in England.
May the large gardens be
as good in proportion to
the money spent upon
them and their size as this
poor little cottage gar
den ? Most certainly, and
many charming gardens
described and figured in
The Garden prove it ;
although it is rarely that
a large garden possesses
anything like the charm
of simplicity and direct-
ness that many cottage
gardens do. But there is
no reason why such pic-
tures may not be seen on
a larger scale.

Thegardenermust follow
the true artist, however
modestly, in his respect
for things as they are, in
delight in natural form
and beauty of flower and
tree, if wo are to be free
from barren geometry, and
if our gardens are ever to
be true pictures. The
gardener has not the stren-
uous work of eye and hand
that the artist has, but he
has to choose from ten
thousand beautiful living
things; to study their
nature and adapt them to
the soil and conditions
that surround him to get
the full expression of their
to place them rightly and in right

culous. as we see from this illustration of often denuded of their grace of growth and ' beauty,

a garden at Chicago made during the past [ form. Then where shall we seek the artis- relation to other things, which is a life study
year. \ tic garden — one in which Nature is so in itself, considering the great numbers of

Why are such designs bad and hateful? far allowed to have her way, that nobody ! the flowers and flowering trees of the world.
The good sense of all is the final court of is frightened out of the garden or led to J And as the artist's work is to see for us and
appeal for even artistic things, and to many abhor it as absolutely an unclean thing? ; preserve in pictures some of the beauty of
people these things need not be said, but the Now, while the artist may be driven from landscape, tree or flower, so the gardener s
stereotyped gardens that abound in many the common garden, he will perhaps go to I should be to keep for us as far as may be,

40

THE (JAR DEN.

[January 19, 18&5

in the fulness of their
living things themselves.

itural beauty, the

Kitchen Garden.

CELERY CULTURE.

Although a good supply of Celery has always
been regarded as indispensable in all private
gardens, its importance seems to be more fully
realised every year. Formerly Celery was
rarely used in a cooked state except in soups,
but since its extremely valuable medicinal pro-
perties have been discovered it is frequently
served up as an ordinary dish. Moreover, where
'here is plenty of ground and good breadths of
Celery can bo grown, .its ifrequent use in the
dining-room is advantageous to the gardener,
enabling him to make the most of other crops,
and in periods of severe- frost, when winter
Broccoli is killed, the use of cooked Celery pre-
vents the too frequent recurrence of ordinary
greens on the table. As a rule much very early
Celery is a loss rather than otherwise, as if
more arrives at maturity, s-ay at the middle of
October, than can be used between then and
the same time in November, wholesale rotting
often occurs, especially with the white varieties,
should the weather be wet and foggy ; whereas
successional rows being still in a growing state
are able to assimilate the moisture and so escape
the scourge. Some growers sow both their
early and main crops of Celery in heat and
afterwards prick the seedlings out into shallow
boxes similar to those used for Geranium cut-
tings, but unless for an early row, which can be
got out as soon as ready and protected, I do
not care for the system. When large quantities
of main-crop red varieties are brought forward
in boxes and delay in transferring to the
trenches (either through inclement weather or
press of other work) occurs, the roots of
healthy plants become so interwoven, that re-
moval with a fair amount of soil attached be-
comes impracticable, flagging and a severe check
follow, not unfrequently ending in a dogged
refusal to grow, or its equivalent— bolting to
seed.

The end of March or first week in April is a
good time for sowing the seed of the main crop.
I prefer raised beds in frames having a due south
aspect and a sheltered situation. The soil,
which may consist of a fairly rich friable loam
previously passed through a coarse sieve and
rendered porous by the addition of a little leaf-
mould, should be made firm and have a gentle
slope towards the sun. Sow broadcast, shallow,
and thinly, finally making the surface firm with
the back of the rake. Moisten with a fine rose
and keep the frame close till the seedlings
appear, covering with mats should the nights be
cold. As soon as the plants are fit to handle
they should be freely thinned, pressing those
that are left to develop well into the soil with
the finger and thumb in order to make them
firm. Free ventilation by day in fine weather
and early closing, so as to husband sun-heat, will
best conduce to a sturdy growth and hasten on
the plants to a transplanting size. Nothing
surpasses shallow pits or frames for pricking the
plants into, and as Celery enjoys a rich larder,
they should be furnished with 8 inches or 9
inches of loamy soil overlying a good thickness
of spent manure. Where ordinary frames are
not at command, rough home-made ones com-
posed of 12-inch deals and covered with mats
at night will answer the purpose, lights being
dispensed with. Nine inches between the rows

distance, this allowing plenty of room to work
in the trowel at lifting time. As the season ad-
vances and the plants gain strength, more air
will be necessary until at length the lights are
entirely removed. The less coddling Celery
plants are subjected to the better, this being
amply proved in the neighbourhood of Retford,
where it is largely grown for market, and
where thousands of plants, are annually pricked
out into sheltered nooks and corners with very
little after protection.

In regard to the final trenches, I prefer those
holding only one row of plants to those holding
two, three, or more, and would always adopt
them except where ground was scarce, as, inde-
pendent of the difficulty of earthing up on the
many-rowed system, the fiat beds of soil, which
in that case cannot be avoided, act as a recep-
tacle for rain water, and in wet winters induce
rotting, the reverse of what is the case with
single rows earthed up in sharp ridge form and
rendered almost rain-proof by the free use of
the back of the spade. This I have proved
over and over again. Where practicable Celery
trenches ought" always to be prepared some
little time before they are wanted ; the soil then
has time to settle and holds moisture better.
Where this is postponed to actual planting
time, the trenches should be well trodden,
raked over, and, if necessary, well watered and
allowed to stand for a few days. Good spit
manure suits Celery well, and when in full
growth, about three copious drenchings, first
with liquid manure and afterwards with clear
water, will work wonders. I am, however, op-
posed to excessive feeding, as although healthy
roots will assimilate almost any quantity of
nourishment, the use of blood, night soil, or
similar manures produces a rank, sappy growth
totally unfit for eating and terribly prone to
decay. Except in the case of very early rows
wanted for use in September, earthing up
ought not to be taken in hand until the plants
are three parts grown, otherwise the sticks do
not attain to a normal size. All suckers should
be drawn away from the base, and if one man
only performs the work, each stick should be
tightly tied round with bass or soft string to
prevent the soil from getting into the hearts.
If two men can be spared so much the better,
as one can then walk backward and grasp the
plant with both hands, while the second man,
walking forwards, brings the soil well up to the
plants. In regard to the Celery maggot,
sprinkling the foliage over with soot and wood
ashes during showery weather, or sprinkling
first with a rose, may keep the fly from striking
it, but when once the mischief has commenced
nothing but determined and repeated hand-
pickings will conquer it. The common Bracken
is the best material for covering the ridges in
time of frost, this being less unsightly than
straw, and where only a row or two is grown,
oiled canvas, now sold at a cheap rate, answers
well. With regard to varieties, Sandringham
White is hard to beat for early work, but for
main crop Wright's Grove White is a grand
variety. Of reds, there are many strains almost
equally good, but I prefer Leicester Red, this
being of first-rate quality. The old Ivery's
Nonsuch is a good pink variety.

J. Crawford.

Trenching. — Those gardeners who left the
work of preparing the soil for the ensuing season's
crops until it had recovered somewhat from the
heavy rains of autumn have done wisely. It is
surprising, given a few weeks of dry weather, how
soon the around will get back to its normal con-
dition after a long spell of wet, and how rapidly

and 4 inches from plant to plant is a suitable work can be caught up. The past week or two

has been singularly favourable for trenching.
There have so far been no frosts to interfere with
the operation, and now it is found that ground
is being very rapidly prepared for crops. As to
the benefit to crops of trenching, it seems hardly
needful to refer to it at this time of day, yet
there are thousands who garden and who are as
neglectful of trenching soil as of any essential in
garden work. The benefit is indeed immense.
How many gardeners of a sort are there who are
constantly calling out for more cropping space
who could practically double their crop produce
did they but regularly and deeply trench ground,
as is done in all good gardens. With these an
ordinary digging of some 10 inches or 12 inches
depth is thought to be ample, simply because it
is so much better than ploughing. The addition
of some 3 inches more in worked depth of soil
every few years until from 30 inches to 36 inches of
depth is obtained is eventually productive of won-
derful results. — A. D.

The season and Celery. — This is one of the
best seasons I ever remember for Celery, the
heads being heavy, solid, with a crisp and nutty
flavour. A few weeks since I noted a correspon-
dent referred to an early batch which had been
seriously injured by over-feeding. This is an
error of culture which I have previously called
attention to. As long as Celery has a fairly rich
root-run provided when the plants are first set
out, very little manure water or other artificial
dressings are seldom needed ; certainly not during
such a cool and dripping season as we have now
passed through. I give the Celery two light
dressings of salt, which just give the stimulus
needed, the growth being solid and devoid of
pithiness. Celery which is over-fed quickly goes
to decay. There is nowadays too much of a
tendency to force vegetables into a coarse growth
by gorging the roots with liquid manure and
surface dressings of artificial manures, and Celery
is no exception. On cutting several heads
through lately at a Chrysanthemum show to test
their quality every one of them had either started
to decay or were soft. — A. Y. A.

A good keeping Onion. — For many years I
have grown Bedfordshire Champion, and have
never found a better keeper. I first saw the
above variety largely grown "for market at Sandy
and the district around, and was informed it was
the best keeping Onion, even superior to James's
Keeping. I have found it so, and for many years
have grown none other for late use. I admit it
does not attain a huge size without special cul-
ture, but for keeping, size is not required. This
old, but good form is well worth growing where
Onions are required late in the spring. — W. M.

Cabbage Winnigstadt. — This is one of the
best varieties for autumn use. The greatest diffi-
culty is to get it true. By making two sowings
there is no lack of good Cabbage from September
to December. The useful St. John Day's Cabbage
runs the Winnigstadt very hard for quality and
usefulness for autumn cutting. I can also strongly
recommend the Winnigstadt for light soils. I
have also sown it in July and August for spring
cutting, but with such really good spring varie-
ties as Ellam's, there is no need to sow at these
dates. —G. W.

When to dig heavy soils. — Gardeners who
have a heavy soil find it more difficult to select
favourable opportunities for digging than those
who have sandy soils to deal with. Especially is
this noticeable in a season like the present. The
moisture from light land drains away quickly, and
after a couple of dry days the digging may be
proceeded with. But not so on heavy land, as at
this period of the year a week or two is needed to
bring it into condition for working, and very
likely several weeks have to elapse before such an
opportunity occurs. It seems good advice to
recommend the digging of all heavy land in the
autumn so that the winter's frosts and snow can
act upon it. Unfortunately, there are heavy soils
that cannot be so dealt with even during the most
favourable periods for autumn digging. The best
period I have found to operate on such heavy soils

January 19, 1895 J

THE GARDEN.

41

is to wait until February is in, and then if a dry
period occurs commence digging in earnest,
Turn the soil up roughly with digging forks— not
spades upon any consideration— and the frosts and
drying winds will act upon it, and by the time it
is wanted for spring cropping it will work very
freely. The result will be a good depth of pul-
verised soil, which may quickly be prepared for
cropping.— Kitchen Gardener.

Tomato cuttings — In October I advised the
insertion of cuttings of any favourite variety-
several in one moderately sized pot— and the win-
tering of them in an intermediate house close to
the glass. These should now be topped and the
cuttings inserted singly in very small pots, and
plunged in a mild bottom heat in the Cucum-
ber house. These will soon root, and may then be
potted on, finally fruiting them in 9-inch pots.
By this system early fruit is obtained, the supply
being kept up by spring-sown plants. Seed may
now be sown of any hardy prolific variety, two
seeds being placed in each 2£-inch pot, the strongest
plant being retained. Plants that have been
bearing fruit throughout the winter may with
increasing length of days be fed more liberally,
top-dressing being repeated as often as new
feeders appear on the surface ; attend also to fer-
tilisation at noon on fine days. — J. C.

EARLY SEAKALE.
In order to have Seakale fit for use early in the
winter the crowns must be well matured and the
leaves falling away from them in October. If the
leaves have to be dragged from them as they are
lifted lor forcing we cannot reasonably anticipate
a strong early growth. Whether we expect it or
not, strong growths are not had from plants thus
treated, but, on the contrary, nothing but spindly
shoots are forthcoming. As a rule, fresh plan-
tations are formed too late. By starting the
plants early there is not only a good prospect of
their becoming extra strong, but they also mature
earlier, and as a consequence are more suitable for
earlv or hard forcing. The old-fashioned plan of
forcing the plants where they are grown with the
aid of earthenware or other coverings and hot-
beds undoubtedly answered well, and is s- 1 ill prac-
tised with good results in many gardens, but it
is a slow, rubbishy, and cumbersome proceeding,
and is rapidly giving way to that of raising plants
thickly, lifting and forcing these in heated houses,
including Mushroom houses and pits. It is not
contended that such fine produce is had by the
newer method as by the old, but far greater
quantities of good well-blanched Seakale are forth-
coming now-a-days without much trouble. There
is, however, room for an extension of the practice,
more especially in the direction of growing a
thousand plants where less than half that number
is now considered sufficient or, rather, has to
be enough. Instead of devoting so much garden
room to the uncertain crops of Broccoli as formerly,
or to Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and such like,
only to spoil ha'f these, owing to their not being
sufficiently appreciated in the dining room, why
not grow more of a class of vegetables that in-
variably meet with favour '! In the latter cate-
gory Seakale must be placed.

Now is the time to decide upon taking this step,
as it also is the time for commencing the propaga-
tion of a fresh stock. According as the roots, or
rather plants, are lifted for forcing, the}' are usually
trimmed to admit of packing them thickly in soil
in pots, boxes, or beds prior to being forced. This
means cutting offa number of clean straight thongs
about the size of a man's little finger, and it is these
which are most suitable for propagating. They
should be cut straight across at the thickest and
which is always to be the upper end, and a slant-
ing cut made at the other end, the cuttings not
exceeding a length of 5 inches. It is far too soon
to trust these in the open ground, but instead of
this all should be dibbled in closely into beds of
soil in pans or boxes, only just showing above
the soil. They can then be stored in a shed
or outhouse out of the reach of very severe frosts,

and the soil about them ought to be kept moist.
If the present is not a convenient time for placing
in boxes, the cuttings should yet be made soon and
stored roughly in sand or fine moist soil for a few
weeks. By the end of March all should have
sprouted and also commenced root action : but if
they were put in late or are backward, place
them for a few days in a gentle moist heat, and
this will bring them forward quickly. When the
stock of Lily White was still small I had all the
stouter thongs cut from plants that had been
forced and made into cuttings, not a few of them
being freely split up, and yet all started well in
heat. In any case all ought to be hardened off
and planted out not later than the second or third
week in April, and, the state of the ground per-
mitting, they should be got out at the end of
March, an early start, as before hinted, being of
the greatest importance. Seakale requires, and
should have, a freely-manured, well-worked
breadth of ground devoted to it, and this should
be selected and prepared at once, as it is very cer-
tain the cuttings will not start well in lumpy soil.
Plant with a dibber firmly and just deep enough
to bury the tops of the cuttings, disposing them
from 12 inches to IS inches apart in rows not less
than IS inches apart. Hand-picking early in the
morning is the best remedy in the case of small
black slugs attacking the cuttings, and the shoots
on the latter ought to be reduced to one in each
case, as if more are left to grow, the chances are
the crowns will be small. Failures may be made
up by transplanting. Should dry weather set in
before the plants are well established, give an occa-
sional watering, while surface hoeing will be
needed during the early part of the season to keep
the ground loose and free of weeds. liaising from
cuttings is far better than sowing seed, as seed-
lings rarely attain a serviceable size in one season.

Sej.wood.

Huge Onions. --Some years back it was
thought that 1 dozen Onions that weighed 1 dozen
lbs. were good. Then Mr. Slarke (Earl Elles-
mere's gardener), Mr. Wingrove (Rousham Park),
and Mr. Doherty showed Onions, a dozen
of which weighed 18 lbs. and -20 lbs. __ After
them came Messrs. Wilkins, Pope, Lye, Kneller,
and Bowerman, who have amongst them secured
the latest prizes. The weight went up to 24 lbs ,
28 lbs., and 30 lbs. Then Mr Kneller grew a
dozen Ailsa t'raig 34 lbs., and now last year Mr.
Wilkins has topped it with 39 lbs. to the dozen.
Messrs. Carter, of High Holborn, showed some
bulbs over 4 lbs. each. Messrs. Peter Henderson,
of New York, have even eclipsed that. They
possess an Onion that has been grown to the
following weight : New Mammoth Pompeii, be-
tween 4 lbs. and 5 lbs.— A. W. Ckews, Banbury.

Kingsholm Cos Lettuce. — I have grown the
Kingsholm Lettuce for many years. I like it
best for summer use, as I find it stands drought
better than many of the newer kinds. I was
advised some fifteen years ago to give the above
variety a trial, and having a poor gravelly soil to
deal with had a deal ot trouble with Lettuces
owing to the plants bolting in hot weather. This
variety is, however, free from that defect, and in
hot, dry summers is invaluable for its good keep-
ing qualities. It may be described as a white
Cos, perfectly solid, with folding leaves, which
require no tying, this being a great advantage, as
some of the Cos varieties decay badly when tied
in wet weather. I have not seen this variety
grown much in the London district. — W. M.

Pea Criterion. — For the past three seasons I
have grown this Pea in quantity, and find it one
of the best for second sowing. It may be termed
a main-crop variety. I sow it to follow those
planted out or sown early on warm, sheltered bor-
ders. I have a liking for the old well-known
Champion of England Pea when it can be ob-
tained true. Criterion may be termed an earlier
form of that variety, but it is larger and partakes
much of the character of Ne Plus Ultra in size
and colour. Last summer this variety cropped
splendidly, and did not sutler from mildew. It

grows from 5 feet to ti feet high. In some gar-
dens this height may not be desired, but where in
can be grown it is much liked, as the haulm is
covered with pods from the base to summit.
It also keeps up a good succession of pods, these
not coming in all at once, as in the case of many
of the larger podded varieties.— G. Wythes.

SOTES ON BROCCOLI.
Those gardeners who are expected to provide a
daily supply of Cauliflower and Broccoli all the
year round will have found the mild weather a
great boon, as I think it will be acknowledged
that it is one of the most difficult things in vege-
table culture to have a full supply of Broccoli
constantly all through the winter. Only those
who are expected to do it are aware of the caro
and forethought required to prevent breaks in
the supply, more especially when the garden is
low and the soil heavy. Even on higher ground
and with a light, sandy soil I find it no easy
matter. One of the most important items is the
selection of a limited number of proved varieties,
planting out the strongest of each sort as soon
as fit to handle, to be followed again a few
weeks later by the weaker ones that will have
grown and become stronger. My experience is
that the last planted ones are often the most
useful, as they come into use immediately after
the first planted ones of the same sort, and con-
tinue the supply until another and later variety
is ready. 1 have heard many complaints of
spring Broccoli turning in now and causing
anxiety as to what is to take their place in a
month or two. If these had been planted at
intervals as mentioned, I think they would not
all be coming in now and forming a glut, to be
followed by a scarcity later on. At the same
time, it may be the varieties ordered were not
true to name, and this explains the cause of
their coming into use at an unseasonable period.
The following are the sorts that I chiefly rely
upon, and in both mild and severe winters
they have proved their worth. For cutting, up
to Christmas I have found none to equal
Veitch's Self-protecting Autumn ; when true to
name it is all that its name implies. Following
Autumn Giant Cauliflower it is one of the most
useful varieties, and has never disappointed me.
Snow's Winter White is a well-known and
highly-esteemed sort, ready for use in mid-
winter. The first planted batch of this is just
over, and the next batch of the same variety is
keeping up the supply in sufficient quantity to
meet requirements. Backhouse's Winter White
is a good successor to Snow's here, always ready
when the latter is nearly finished ; it is also one
of the best to withstand wet and frost. Cool-
ing's Matchless is an old variety, but one that
I find extremely useful and reliable, and I should
be sorry to discard it. Another advantage is
its excellent flavour. Even when lifted and
stored in sheds to protect from frost its flavour
is superior to that of any others treated in a
similar manner. April Queen is a variety that
should be better known. It is very hardy,
with lovely pure white heads ready in March
and April ; on a light soil it has proved first-
class for some years. Veitch's Model will be
ready by the time the last is over, and the value
of this variety is proved by its greatly increased
cultivation. Late Queen completes the list, and
I have yet to see the winter that will seriously
injure this variety, its season being May and
June. Its keeps up a supply of large aud
tender heads until the Cauliflower is fit to cut.
It is never advisable to be too conservative in
selecting varieties, as novelties may, and do
occasionally prove to be of extraordinary merit ;
but it is always safer to depend on well-tried

42

THE GARDEN

I.Iaxuary 19, 1895.

sorts that will not land the gardener in diffi-
culties. We often see it advised that Broccoli
should have the heads layered towards the
north before frost sets in. Such a practice may
be beneficial in some localities, but I must con-
fess to not having discovered any advantage.
Those plants not heeled over have passed
through hard weather fully as well as those that
were so treated. Of late years from the end
of October onwards all Broccoli turning in has
had the heads tied up, thus protecting them
from wet and enabling them to pass safely
through several degrees of frost ; and if there
has been any appearance of sharp weather, the
plants have been taken up with a good ball of soil
and placed in frost-proof structures.

W. G. C.

to quality with such a rigid selection. We have
more novelties now than in years gone by. Many
appear as old friends with a new name, and I fear
many are made improved selections merely to
fasten a name upon them. In these days of
cheap horticultural literature there is no need to
solemnly abjure all new things, as was done in the
old days when there was little chance of knowing
the value of any new introduction. New things
of any real value come to the front rapidly, so
that one is soon able to know what to grow. — W.

Radish French Breakfast.— As a good main
crop and late Radish I doubt if tliere is a better va-
riety than the French Breakfast. I have pulled roots
daily from the open right up till the present time, but
of course the mild weather has been the cause of this.
If I had covered the roots with dry litter, I daresay I
could have had them for a few weeks longer. — A. Y.

Flavour in Brussels Sprouts.— I quite agree
with the remarks of " E. J." on the bad flavour of
some varieties of this useful vegetable this year.
Several gigantic new varieties that were sent me
for trial are so strongly flavoured on a light soil,
that I have stopped sending them into the kitchen.
The only really good and pleasantly flavoured
sorts that I have are Matchless and Rosebery,
the sprouts of both of medium size and very firm.
— W. G. C.

New Turnip Early "White Milan.— This is
a valuable Turnip for sowing in frames or as a
first early in the open ground. Last season it
was very good and the earliest variety I have
grown. In appearance it is much like Extra
Early Milan and equally as early, if not earlier.
Early White Milan is not large, and a distinct
strap leaved variety, coming into use ten days
or a fortnight earlier than Snowball and other
white varieties. The bulbs are pure white,
not at all large, flesh sweet and of superior
flavour. Its quick growth makes it a valuable
addition to our list of none too many really good
early kinds. For frame work the Milan type is
unequalled, but for summer sowing in the open
I do not advise it. — G. Wythes.

Salsafy. — On the Continent, and especially in
France, this vegetable is highly esteemed both by
the rich and the working classes. It is delicious
when properly prepared and so simple of culture,
that one wonders why it should be so little grown
in this country. In hard winters, when there is
not too much variety in vegetables, Salsafy forms
an agreeable change, and it is said to be one of
the most nutritious vegetables cultivated in gar-
dens. The seed should be sown early in April,
but it is imperative that the ground be thoroughly
prepared for its reception. It must be stirred a
toot or more in depth. Ground that has been
trenched a year or so previously will be just right
and plenty of manure must be worked in. The
seed drills will require to be about 1 foot apart
and the plants thinned to some 8 inches from each
other. Frequent surface stirrings will promote a
free growth. On the approach of winter the roots
should be stored in dry earth. — J. C. B.

Selection of vegetables and new kinds. —
The seed catalogues now coming in fast remind
us that the season of selection is close at hand.
There will doubtless be the usual list of novelties
and specialities which the older practitioner
solemnly warns us to fight shy of. To the man
who is interested in vegetables or flowers the
growing of these novelties forms an agreeable
change. I admit I have a failing for the new-
things. It may be said, Why spend money on
novelties till one is sure of them '! If the
reports of trials or the awarding of certificates
are noted, it will be seen how very few new fruits
or vegetables, especially the latter, are awarded
ertificates, so that there need be little doubt as

WHAT'S IN A NAME?
From the letters that have lately appeared on
the naming of plants, it is evident that there is
a growing disposition to resent the crackjaw
nomenclature that is now so much in vogue.
The time is ripe for the return of that Peter
Bell to whom a Primrose was " a common Prim-
rose," and not " Primula vulgaris." Such an
apostle would have many disciples, my humble
self among the number.

We want, as " H. O. W." (p. 520) says, Eng-
lish substitutes for the erudite appellations that
many of the lowly denizens of our gardens are
now burdened with. Winter Flag is, I think,
as good a name for Schizostylis coccinea as
can be coined — better, certainly, than Flame
Lily, as it is called by some, for neither is it a
Lily nor is its flower of the hue of flame.
Almond Cross for Schizopetalon Walkeri is un-
doubtedly well chosen.

Some of us are cursed (possibly there be those
who will think I should have written blest) with
a fatal facility for acquiring Latin polysyllables.
If indulged in, this pernicious habit so blunts
the moral feeling of those addicted to it, that
there are men — and women, too, more's the
pity — who will scarcely feel a pang of compunc-
tion when, after a pause (during which he or
she has vainly endeavoured to assimilate a
string of Latin words), one of those "good decent
folk," alluded to by " H. O. W.," says with a
sigh, " Dear me ! what a very long name for
such a little flower. Isn't there a simpler one?"
Then, again, as "J. C. L." and "A. K." (pp.
550 and 13) point out, these Latin names are
nothing if not inconstant. To-day Hyacinthus,
to-morrow Galtonia ; to day Tritoma, to-mor-
row Kniphofia, in the correct pronunciation of
which the " K " is, I understand, eliminated,
the very name suggesting the wanton decapita-
tion of the citizens of the parterre. Aralia
Sieboldi, which we got to know so well, now
masquerades as Fatsia. The Belladonna Lily
has turned out to be the one and only Amaryl-
lis, all the rest being now Hippeastrums, while
the Spinea japonica of our youth has been re-
baptised Hoteia.

Then there are people who make matters
worse by getting hold of a Latin name and
mispronouncing it through what is really ignor-
ance, though they consider it erudition. One
often hears Deutzia called Doitzia, under the
mistaken impression that it is a German word,
and I once came across a linguist who, when
talking of Cactus Dahlias, would persist in pro-
nouncing Juarezi " Hooarezi," quite oblivious
of the fact that although in the Spanish tongue
Hooarez is correct, the word directly it is
Latinised is pronounced after the classic Latin
fashion.

One can hardly leave the subject of nomen-
clature without deprecating the practice, yearly
becoming more common, of christening novel-
ties, especially in Chrysanthemums, with lengthy
titles. The French raisers are the worst
offenders in this respect, but Americans and
our own countrymen are not blameless. L'En-
fant des deux Mondes is a stumbling-block that

has brought many a good gardener to grief, and
not only gardeners, but nurserymen as well, for
I have at this moment two catalogues before me
in which the name is mis-spelt. What excuse,
too, can there be for Gaston Chandon de
Brialles, Mons. Pynaert van Geert or Souvenir
de Mme. Blandinieres in Chrysanthemums, and
Susanne Marie Rodocanachi or William Allen
Richardson in Roses ? All of these god-parents
are doubtless very worthy people and quite un-
deserving of the odium which now attaches to
their names through the misplaced obsequious-
ness of plant producers. S. W. F.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 997.

THE GENUS LYCORIS.

(with a coloured plate of l. aurea.*)

There are five species of Lycoris, and four of
them are in cultivation m England. They are
natives of Japan and China, and whilst botanic-
ally they are placed near to Hippeastrum, they
more resemble in bulb, leaf, flower and habit
some of the Nerines ; indeed, two of the species,
viz., L. aurea and L. radiata, are still called
Nerines by nurserymen. All the species are
sufficiently ornamental to rank with good gar-
den bulbs, and they are probably easy enough
to manage when their requirements are under-
stood. Hitherto, however, we have not had
much success with them, no doubt because the
treatment they have had has not been suitable.
At any rate, this is true of

L. aurea, which has been in cultivation more
than a century, having been introduced into Eng-
lish gardens by Dr. Fothergill in 1777, when it
was called Amaryllis aurea. This is generally de-
scribed as a greenhouse bulb, but I am now con-
vinced that it requires warm house treatment. In
July last we received from Hong Kong a box of
bulbs of this plant. They were as large as the
bulbs of Emperor Daffodil, and they nearly all
looked promising for flower. Along with them
came the following significant note —

I send you a box of Lycoris aurea, and I hope it will
reach you all right. Is it not somewhat remarkable that
these bulbs should remain dormant in the ground all
summer in snch a climate as this, with a temperature
of 85" Fahr. in the shade and a rainfall of 100 inches
in the year, heat and moisture sufficient, one would
think, to start into feverish growth the most hide-bound
of bulbs? The Lycoris, however, sleeps through it all,
pusbing up its tall scapes of yellow flowers at the end
of our summer. Here it is one of the most popular of
garden plants, ranking with Crinums, Pancratiums,
Eucharis, and Lilium lougiflorum. I do not remember
to have ever seen it in English gardens.

The bulbs sent flowered well at Kew, and they
are now in full leaf in an intermediate house, a
few of them having been placed in a hot stove as
a test. The bulb is like that of a Daffodil ; the
leaves, which are numerous and start into growth
along with the flower-scape, are like those of
Nerine sarniensis, and the scape is 18 inches high,
with an umbel of deep yellow flowers, like very
large Nerines, strong bulbs producing twelve
flowers in an umbel. Mr. Moon's drawing shows
the beauty of the plant, and as bulbs of it are
offered by Japanese nurserymen at a low price, it
ought soon to become as popular as the Guernsey
or the Belladonna Lilies.

L. radiata, often called Nerine japonica, is an
old garden plant, for it was noticed by Kaempfer in
1712, and cultivated in England in 1750. It is a
native of China and Japan, where it is commonly
cultivated in gardens, and offered by the nursery -

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon in
the Royal Gardens, Kew. Lithographed and printed
by Guillaume Severeyns.

-
I

January 19, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

43

men at about 2s. 6d. per hundred. It is very like
a Nerine, Thunberg mistaking it for the Guern-
sey Lily, N. sarniensis, which it resembles in bulb
and leaf, the scape being a foot long, with an
umbel of from four to twelve red flowers, which
are developed in early autumn. It generally
flowers in October at Kew.

L. squamigera.— In 1887 Herr Max Leiehtlin
and others distributed bulbs of this plant under
the name of Amaryllis Halli. They flowered in
several collections, notably that of Mr. Gumble-
ton in 1891, when he wrote that his plant had
pushed up a flower-spike in July, which grew to
a height of 2 feet, and resembled a strong-grow-
ing Nerine. It bore an umbel of five flowers each
of about twice the size of the largest Nerine
bloom and coloured lilac-pink, with a flush of blue
•down the centre of each petal. Mr. Gumbleton
was disappointed with it. On the other hand, it
has been described as a handsome plant, with a
scape a yard high, an umbel of seven flowers, fra-
grant, 3 inches or 4 inches long, coloured light
rose, shaded with a peculiar grey. It resembles
the Belladonna Lily in bulb and leaf. It is said
to be often planted by the Chinese in their ceme-
teries. According to Garden and Forest, it was
introduced from Shanghai, China, by Dr. G. R.
Hall, who cultivated it in China in 1860 and who
sent it to Messrs. Hovey, of Boston, who distri-
buted it a few years ago. It is said to be hardy,
but the first bulb received at Kew perished in the
winter, and since then it has been grown in an un-
heated frame.

L. sanguinea. — I saw a coloured drawing of
this plant a short time since in the hands of a
nurseryman, who said he had a consignment of
bulbs of it on the way. It does not appear to
have been cultivated in England, but from what
I can gather it is likely to find favour with bulb
growers. Its bulbs are about 1 inch in diameter,
the leaves are linear, the scape 1J feet long and
the umbel six-flowered, the flowers being nearly
erect and regular, over 2 inches long and coloured
bright red. It is a native of Japan, where it is
also cultivated in gardens.

L. straminea was introduced to Chiswick from
China by Fortune in 1845, and was described by
Dr. Lindley. I do not think it is in cultivation
anywhere now. It is described as being very like
L. aurea, but the flowers arc pale straw-coloured,
with pink streaks and red dots.

L. Sewerzowi, a plant described and figured
by Regel in his Garten flora, t. 914, is now referred
to Ungernia trisphtera, a large-bulbed plant
with small red flowers. It is in cultivation at
Kew, Dr. Aitchison having brought it from the
Afghan boundary in 1886.— W. W.

Owing to the difficulty that has been

experienced in the past in flowering this very
beautiful bulbous plant, the following note from
a correspondent in China may be of interest : —

The temperature the Lycoris grows in varies
from 93° in the height of summer, when the bulbs
are resting, to 55° — 60°J in winter, when they are
growing. Sometimes for a few days in January
the thermometer falls to 40° or lower, but that is
for but a short time. When the plants make
their leaves there is absolutely no rainfall, or next
to none. When they rest it is our wet season. It
is a most lovely thing ; I think it the most beauti-
ful bulbous plant I have ever seen.

That the above treatment followed in this
country will lead to success is, I think, most
probable. At Kew last September a number
of bulbs received when at rest from China
flowered. These are now growing as freely
as Narcissi in a temperature of 55\ I have also
plants in a like temperature doing very well.
When the foliage dies down I shall shut up the
plants in a sunny frame and water sparingly.
The beautiful Lycoris squamigera can, I fancy,
be grown under the same conditions as Amaryllis
belladonna ; anyhow, it is quite hardy. Lycoris
sanguinea is a comparatively unknown plant, I

believe, and a drawing I have shows a fine spike
of very beautiful orange-red flowers. — K. W.
Wallace, Colchester.

The Week's Wor<.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Pot Vines. — The canes started for early fruiting
will now have made sufficient growth to be tied.
In getting the rods into position it is necessary to
use care to prevent the buds being rubbed off.
If any Vine has not made sufficient progress it is
better to allow the cane to remain in a bent
position for a short time longer. The grower of
these early forced plants must now determine
which will be the fruiting growths. In some
cases it will be necessary to remove some growths
entirely. I am not an advocate for allowing a
too great number of useless shoots, which rob
the roots. With Vines now at the flowering
period more warmth will be necessary and greater
care in airing ; indeed, very little air will be
necessary. Up to this date little moisture at the
roots will have been necessary where heating
materials in the way of manures are used. If
fresh heating material is required, it is better to
place in position at once before the flowering
period, so as to maintain a temperature of 80 at
the roots. When adding new linings it is well to
examine and test the roots as to dryness. In
watering use tepid water. Much food will not be
required till there is a liberal new root growth to
absorb the food, which should be given in weak
doses, the quantities being increased as soon as
the fruit has set. With neated manure as the
fermenting material the greatest care is necessary
to prepare such before using, as when placed in
heat the hot steam will greatly injure the tender
growth in a close house. By using a liberal
quantity of fresh leaves with the manure this is
prevented, and a genial warmth is maintained for
a longer time. Whilst the Vines are in bloom the
evaporating pans should not be filled, and the
glass of the house should be kept as clean as pos-
sible, as after fogs or near towns soot soon accu-
mulates, causing a bad set and weakly foliage.

Vines planted out. — Much the same treat-
ment is necessary as with pot Vines. Those who
force early and have a small well-built house will
now have the growths on their Vines an inch long
if ripe Grapes are required early next May. To
get an even growth much better results are se-
cured by covering the surface with warm manure
as advised for the earlier pot Vines. Vines that
have been forced for years may not require much
to induce them to break freely, but young canes
at this time of year often break irregularly if not
assisted in this way. The night temperature for
Vines at this stage should be 55°, with 5° to 10J
higher by day, allowing the thermometer to run
up freely by sun heat, disbudding as soon as pos-
sible to the required number of shoots when it
can be ascertained which are required to fruit.
During dull weather use the syringe sparingly, as
the new growth just pushing will be injured if
too wet. A safe plan is to get the cane? dry by the
time daylight ceases, there being sufficient mois-
ture in the house after that time without syring-
ing. With only a limited amount of daylight
and little sun it is not wise to apply moisture too
freely.

Midseason Grapes. — To have well - finished
Grapes in quantity in July it is well to start the
Vines at this date. The borders should ere this
have been top-dressed, examined as to dryness,
and the rods cleaned and prepared for forcing.
Disbudding and syringing will be the principal
work for a time. Old Vines show a great num-
ber of buds. These need thinning out as soon as
the strongest can be selected. Where practicable a
bed of leaves is of great assistance to the Vines,
as it saves the syringing and a nice moist atmo-
sphere is maintained. For houses just started
the temperature may range from 45' to 50° by

night and 10° higher by day, but with young
Vines in mild weather a few degrees higher may
be necessary. Should the roots be outside, a
good depth of warm leaves and litter will be
beneficial, covering over the heating material to
throw off heavy rains and snow.

Late vineries.— All fruit should now be cleared
from the Vines and bottled. It should be placed
in a cool room, as if a suitable temperature is
maintained and some small pieces of charcoal
placed in the water, the bunches keep quite as
well, indeed better than on the Vines. Pruning
should be done as early as possible to give the
Vines a rest. Cleansing the rods anil all portions
of the house should follow, removing all loose bark,
but not scraping, as is at times practised. Any
loose bark may be removed, the rods washed
afterwards with warm soapy water and thoroughly
scrubbed should mealy bug or other insect pests
be troublesome. I attach more importance to
thorough washing than painting, as the washing
removes the insects, and if a strong solution of
soft soap is used few escape. Painting over after-
wards is necessary, a good mixture for this pur-
pose being Gishurst compound, sulphur and clay,
with a handful of fresh lime, making the mixture
like thick paint, and taking cue to freely cover
the rough or knotty portion of the stem and
crevices. The walls should be limewashed with
fresh lime, and if mildew was present last season,
use sulphur freely in the wash. Remove the loose
surface soil and top-dress with good loam and
some approved fertiliser. Previous to the surface
dressing a thorough soaking of water should be
given, as the roots will have got dry during the
time the Grapes were hanging. Any additions to
borders or renewal of same should be done.

Melons. — Now is a good time to make a start
w ith these, and if an early lot of plants was raised
in December they will be in condition to plant out
at this date. For very early fruit pot culture is
best, as the roots being confined the plants make a
short-jointed growth and soon mature fruit. For
put plants a certain amount of bottom heat is
necessary. The pots may be plunged in manure,
or, what is better, stood over hot-water pipes.
Fourteen-inch or 16-inch pots will finish three or
four nice sized fruits. The soil should be of a firm
loamy nature, with sueh additions as burnt wood
ashes, mortar rubble and bone-meal. If manure
is the means of bottom heat it is well to place the
pots on a firm base, as if on the manure there is
a shrinkage, and when the plants are tied to the
trellis they suffer in consequence. Much care is
necessary at this early date. At the start, water
must be sparingly given, and what little is re-
quired should be given in a warm state. A night
temperature of 65° to 70° should be maintained,
with a liberal rise during the day. The glass at
night may with advantage be covered in severe
weather. Another sowing should now be made,
and in many gardens this will be the first. I pre-
fer to sow in small pots, sowing a couple of seeds
in each, thinning to the strongest when above the
soil. No moisture will be required if the soil is
damp till the seeds have germinated.

Strawberry forcing. — Now is a good time to
introduce plants into heat for April fruiting. I
rely upon Vicomtesse H. de Thury for first use, and
those who have this variety and have not started
forcing may now begin with every chance of
success. If a slight start in the way of bottom-
heat can be afforded the plants, so much the
better. I use frames for this purpose, with a good
depth of fresh leaves. Before introducing the
plants into their forcing quarters it is well to make
sure they are free of mildew. If not, a thorough
dressing of sulphur should be given, dusting all
parts of the plants, specially the under side of the
foliage. Plants started early in December will
now be showing their flower trusses, and as soon as
they have pushed well above the foliage the plants
may be removed to warmer shelves, as less mois-
ture will be required. Care must, however, be
taken not to give a check in any way, as doing
this will cause abortive blooms. When removing
from one house to another choose a warm day and
do the work quickly. A higher temperature may

44

THE GARDEN.

[January 19, 1895.

be given when the fruit has set. For succession
crops such varieties as Royal Sovereign, La Grosse
Sucree, President. Auguste Nicaise, and the good
old Keens' Seedling, where it is grown from a
true stock, are valuable. The first named is a
valuable addition to our early fruits and as early
as Noble, with superior flavour, Shelves in fruit
houses can often be utilised from this date. I do
not recommend removal of surface soil or top-
dressing when placing indoors, as this destroys
the small roots. By the time the roots lay hold of
the new soil the crop is cleared, so that the sur-
face dressing is wasted. It is very easy to feed
later on. G. Wythek.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Making hotbeds. — In the majority of gardens the
middle of January is the best time for making up
hotbeds for early vegetables. In the first place
the frames should be measured and the site marked
out, driving in a stout stake at each corner as a
guide to the workmen, and allowing sufficient
room for a 2l-feet or, better still, a 3-feet lining.
Rank stable manure is best avoided, as it causes
the bed to heat excessively for a short time and
then to go cold. If sufficient leaves cannot be
had, vegetable refuse or old garbage, usually found
on the premises at this period, may be added. Let
the bed be well trodden at intervals, using short
litter for the outsides to bind it and finishing
off with a good slope towards the sun. The frames
should at once be placed in position and the soil
thrown in. If soil is scarce, that used last year
may again be used, adding a little leaf mould to
keep it open and a sprinkling of some approved
fertiliser.

Potatoes. — If an early variety, such as Ring-
leader or Victor.had been placed in an intermediate
heat a few weeks ago, sprouts a quarter of an inch
long should now be formed. These should be
reduced to a couple on each, these being left at
the extremity of the tuber. They may be planted
in rows 15 inches apart and 1 foot between the
tubers, and about 4 inches deep. If no steam is
engendered the lights may be kept closed until
growth appears, when a little air must be given in
mild and sunny weather.

Carrots. — If these are sown in very shallow
drills 8 inches apart, plenty of room will be left
for intermediate rows of Radishes. These will be
drawn before the Carrots are large enough to be
shaded by them. A row of Ellam's Early Cabbage
or the pickling variety, where autumn sowings
failed, may also be sown. Carrots at this date
liking plenty of heat, this may be increased and
growth accelerated by keeping the frame well
matted down by day as well as night till growth
appears. A strict watch, however, must be kept,
as if darkened after once through the soil the
Carrots become drawn and blanched. A row or
two of the old French Forcing may be sown, this
being perhaps the quickest bulbing variety, also
Nantes Horn and Market Favourite, the latter
being about the best frame Carrot in existence.

Radishes. — If a frame can be devoted to these,
so much the better, as sown between rows of Pota-
toes the}' seldom do much good. Broadcast
fashion is the best mode of sowing, raking the seed
in a quarter of an inch deep and making the sur-
face firm. Air must be regularly supplied when
frost is absent, or the Radishes soon become leggy
and useless. For quick growth the old variety
Wood's Frame is still hard to beat, French Break.
fast being also an excellent variety.

Sprouting Potatoes. — Successional supplies of
tubers should now be placed in boxes containing
a little leaf-mould and removed to comfortable
quarters to sprout ; these will do duty in frames
and pits without heat in February and also for the
earliest borders in March. Ringleader, Veitch's
Ashleaf, Puritan, and Sutton's Seedling areallgood
for this purpose, the tops of the latter two being
pinched when a foot high if grown in frames.

French Beans. — January-sown batches of
Osborn's Forcing and Syon House will make rapid
progress, shallow boxes, where these can be
accommodated, being the best receptacles. The

soil in these being only of moderate depth and not
liable to become sour, a little artificial manure
may be added, as the roots from the start will be
able to assimilate it. Avoid earthing up, as it
often causes wholesale rotting of the stems.
Advancing crops must be supported by sprigs of
Hazel or Birch.

Protecting tender crops. — Should sharp frost
continue, dry Bracken or stable litter should be
freely distributed along the tops of theCelery ridges,
also between breaks of tender Broccoli, a portion
of the same being laid on the tops of the latter and
removed when a thaw occurs. Scotch and other
Kales growing in isolated places must be in-
spected, as wood pigeons frequently do much
damage before their presence is detected.

Jerusalem Artichokes. — Presuming that a
sufficiency of these has been housed for present
use, the remainder may all be lifted as soon as the
frost goes and sorted. The smaller offsets may be
covered with straw and ashes ready for planting
in March, and the eating tubers stored away in
soil in the root-shed.

Autumn-sown Peas. — In some gardens Novem-
ber sowing is still practised, and the growth will
now need protection from cold frosty winds.
Spruce or common Yew boughs form effectual
screens if placed up each side of the rows. I
have for years used troughs made of 12-inch
deal boards, nailed together so as to form a span ;
these are placed quite over the rows in severe
weather. A coat of tar every third season will
prevent rot and preserve them for many years.
Where early Peas were not sown in pots and
placed in cold frames in December, they must
now be sown ; now, however, the pots must be
placed in an early Peach house or similar struc-
ture, and there kept till growth is an inch high,
after which they must be removed to a cold
frame to harden off. Chelsea Gem and William
Hurst as dwarf varieties, and Exonian and
William the First in the taller section, are all
good for early border work. A little seed of
Stratagem may likewise be sown, as it is hardy
and follows very closely on the heels of the first
earlies, and there is no better Pea for quality or
to fill the basket. Mice usually find out early
sowings, whether in frames or in the open. The
old-fashioned figure 4 brick or tile trap takes
them sooner than anything else.

Destroying wireworm. — In all gardens where
wireworm is troublesome amongst Spinach or
other crops, the present is a capital time to give a
good dressing of gas-lime, the same being after-
wards dug in. This will banish the pest, and
allow sufficient time for its injurious properties to
pass away before the spring crops are sown.
While speaking of insecticides, I would add that
the present time is favourable for burning up all
sticks, fruit tree prunings and sundry garden
rubbish, this affording a good supply of ashes for
sowing in the drills of Onion and Carrot beds, for
incorporating with heavy and unfavourable soils
generally, and for sprinkling over Turnip and
other crops when attacked by fly.

Root room. — Inclement weather will afford an op-
portunity of overhauling the occupants of the root-
shed. Carrots, being particularly liable to rot,
must be first looked to, any that are partly de-
cayed being laid aside for present use. Salsafy and
Scorzonera, if growing, should have the tops re-
moved, or they will quickly rob the roots of
vitality and cause shrivelling. The same may be
said of Beet, but in removing the growth care
must be taken not to injure the crown so as to
cause bleeding. All seed Potatoes stored in cellars
or outhouses must also be looked over and all
sprouts removed : if lying thickly they should be
spread out so as to avoid heating.

Herbs. — Roots of Mint and Tarragon should now
be placed in boxes of soil or, failing these, large
pots, as there is always a call for these in early
spring. Some seed of Chervil may also be sown, so
as to be on the safe side should it be asked for.

J. Crawford.

Monthly) as regards seedling verms grafted Oaks
" The article you refer to was written by my
brother Joseph, who has charge of one of the
leading departments in our nursery, and has re-
ceived very wide attention. There is something
peculiar about grafted Oaks. Some of them do
very well grafted ; for instance, the upright variety
of the English Oak will unite and thrive just as
well on the ordinary English Oak stock as if it
were raised from seed, but the blood-leaved Oak
and several other varieties utterly refuse to live
more than a year or two without becoming sickly.
Undoubtedly it is best in all cases to raise them
from seed. In this country, where it is so easy to
get seeds of all kinds of Oak, there is, of course,
no necessity for grafting, so that those we ofi'er
are seedling plants. Here in Pennsylvania, where
we are between the most tropical and the more
arctic parts of the continent, we never suffer much
from heat or drought in summer or severe cold in
winter ; in fact, the climate of Pennsylvania more
nearly resembles that of England than that of any
other portion of the United States. It is only, as a
general rule, from the middle of December until
the middle of February that we are unable to do
outdoor garden work, and very often we continue
our tree planting until after Christmas."

Books.

THE BOOK OF THE ROSE.*

The comprehensive title of this book is an illusion
which its author very quickly dispels. A book of
the Rose should surely treat of all the charming
attributes of the flower, but Mr. Foster-Melliar
looks upon the plant " only as a means of obtain-
ing glorious Roses." As a decorative plant he
does "not consider it pre-eminent," and to his
mind " simpler, less beautiful flowers have greater
value for general effect in the garden." From his
own point of view, that of an exhibitor, he is
able to teach, but, except in a few minor details
of treatment, he has nothing new to tell us.
There is plenty yet to tell about Roses, and
though treatment from an exhibitor's stand-
point has been dealt with, there is still room for a
bonk about Roses which can be offered without
apology, provided it appeals to and supplies the
wants of the thousands of lovers of the queen of
(lowers who give it pride of place in their gar-
dens and never trouble themselves about exhibit-
ing. The Rose is unfortunate in its literature,
because it is all one-sided and conveys the im-
pression that the end of all Rose growing is the
production of exhibition blooms. No one grudges
the enthusiast his right to treat the flower as he
likes, but the standard of requirements for show
is so exclusive, that he who grows for this
purpose alone has not a true idea of the varied
beauty of the flower. So long as exhibitors of
Roses alone teach Rose growing, their modes
will be " erroneous and faulty," being altogether
opposed to the development of the flower ex-
cept as an individual bloom. Everything is
restricted, and the few shoots and flowers, how-
over fine in themselves, are but a miserable
apology for the self-same Rose as grown rs
seen in the garden. To decry the flower on t'ne
ground of effect is absurd, as the commoner
showy flowers ordy gave bright effects because
thej' were massed in quantity, and if we take the
best Tea, Monthly and other Roses and mass them
accordingly, there is no other flower that will give
more beauty in its season. Mr. Fcster-Mellim-
is not without a good example in his vicinity, and
if he had stood as I did one day last June on the
terrace at Shrubland and looked upon those noble
groups of Tea Roses that have replaced the
wretched carpet bedding, I cannot but think in
his introductory chapter he would have freely ad-
mitted that the Rose as a garden flower has
great merits, and in its amazing profusion of bloom
makes a picture.

American Oaks. — We have received the fol-
lowing from Mr. Meehan (once of the Gardeners'

* "The Book of the Rose." By the Rev. A. Foster-
Melliar. Macmillan :md Co.

January.] 9; 1R9.5.I

THE GARDEN.

4 5

The second chapter deals with history and clas-
sification, and the author is guided by those
who have gone before him, although there is much
that is useless and confusing, owing to the reten-
tion of such groups as Boursault, which have no
garden value. The statement (p. 21) that several
other single species which bloom only once a year
are only of value i^o the botanist or collector is
quite in accordance with the erroneous ideas that
the exhibitor puts forth, and- a hindrance to
the full realisation in our gardens of the varied
types of Rose beauty. Thus the single Musk Rose,
the sweetest and'handsorhest of "climbing single
Roses, is banished from gardens and beneath
notice. 'Amongst Monthlies, Mrs. Bosanquet and
Mme. Laurette Messimy are mentioned as about
the only two worth growing, and this latter is
condemned as a weak grower, when it is not.
There is abed of Monthly Roses and Lavender on the
terrace at Shrubland that is gay for many months
and brilliant at certain times. The bed does not
contain [either of the two kinds above mentioned,
but those that are there are beyond question
equal injbeauty and effect to the best Teas, though
less useful as cut flowers. Rosa lucida, a gem
among single Roses, is classed on p. 20 along
with R: microphylla and berberifolia as "not
hardy, but evergreen where well protected," R.
lucida being as hardy as the wild Bramble.
The last paragraph of chapter 2 relating to
garden Roses is not of much use, for it sums
them up as "hardy, strong-growing, free-flower-
ing sorts which do not require much care, but
are defective as florists' flowers.'' This is curious
considering that some of the very best Tea Roses
for the garden are those that the exhibitor finds
indispensable.

Situation and soil are fully treated of in
chapter 3. but the ghost of tenderness once
more stalks abroad, for " It is pretty well
known that most of the Tea Roses are tender
and likely to be injured or killed by severe
frosts." After describing the various situa-
tions, and mentioning as worst of all one that
lies low, near trees and water, and hardly
above sea level, the author admits that it is in
just such a situation he has to grow his Roses.
In this valley of the Gipping the thermometer
often falls to zero. The experience gained in such
a place is surely not for general guidance, and
the disasters that have followed are not lying
in store for us all, as Mr. Foster - Melliar
would have us believe. He calls Tea Roses
" tender, delicate things." If they are, it
is marvellous that the great growers around
Colchester have any flowers to exhibit when the
.-hows come round, and plants to sell later on. Yet
there they are in countless thousands, in open
fields exposed to all the winds that blow. Plant-
ing, manures and pruning are the subjects of the
three next chapters, and are well and fully treated.
Next comes one on stocks, and it is satisfactory
to note that the Manetti is estimated at about its
true worth. The Brier cutting is regarded with
most favour, having less tendency to deep root-
ing ; but as the seedling Brier stocks are once or
twice transplanted before working when long roots
are shortened and planting the plants after the
directions given in the book, the differences must
be more fancied than real. Propagation is the
subject of chapter 8, and deals chiefly with
the conventional methods, but wo are told how to
strike them, although this advice is preceded by
the oft- repeated assertion that in the first place it
takes longer to form plants, and, secondly, such
Roses neither grow nor flower so well as those on
stocks. With a few exceptions, they will grow and
flower just as well on their own roots if we adapt
our culture to the needs of the plant, one of the
first of these being the need of a much lighter soil.
As to the time occupied, if anyone will put in some
Brier cuttings and Rose cuttings at the same time,
he will certainly be cutting Roses from the own-
root plants before there are any upon the plants
that have been budded. This is a fair test of
time, but not so when a cutting is compared with
a bud put upon a crown of strong established
roots. Easier and more rapid still is layering.

Shoots put down in early summer may be taken
off in late autumn with quite an abundance ol
roots, the H. P.'s especially being of easy increase
in this way.

Pests are well treated of and the best remedies
suggested, whilst a short chapter follows on Roses
under glass. Exhibiting has a special chapter, as
the author thinks anyone who has followed his
instructions previously given will be anxious to
get an important judgment on his blooms. He
exaggerates the views of those who are rather
averse to R' se shows, for no one who knows any-
thing at all about the flower would say that the
" least lovely of Roses are most shown and en-
couraged." I fear the exhibitor takes a much nar-
rower view of the whole matter by reas n of his
" high standard of excellence," for there are lovely
Roses grown in gardens to-day that would never
have been there if the shows and the showing
people had been our sole guides and counsellors.
The "manners and eustoms" of Roses form the
subject of a very long chapter extendi' g to i early
o' e hu> dred pages &< d illustrated with flowers of
some of the best kinds, specimen flowers showing
the form admirably, whilst the text treats of the
merits and peculiarities of growth and flowering.
A chapter follows on selections for various pur-
poses, and though no two compilers might be ex-
pected to agree on this, it is surprising to find
Bouquet d'Or placed sixth in the order of merit in
a selection of twelve Roses for a wall, and prece-
dence given to Marechal Niel (ever uncertain)
and Reine Marie Henriette. For pegging down
some advised are useless, as La France and
(iloire de Margottin, whilst one of the very best,
namely, Mme. G. Luizet, is not mentioned.
The final chapter contains a calendar of opera-
tions for each month in the year. It is a useful
book to put into the hands of a beginner, atd
will be an all-sufficient guide if his ultimate aim is
prize-winning. The style and arrangement are
admirable and the printing good, but the illustra-
tions are processes of a poor sort. A. H.

FLORA ODORATA : OR, SWEET-SCENTED

FLOWERS AND FRAIiRANT LEAVES.*

Tiik object which this little volume so well ful'
tils is to give concisely, and in the most convenient
form for reference, what was greatly needed,
namely, all necessary practical information about
the 6weet-smelling flowers, shrubs and plants
which are found in our gardens, fields and hedge-
rows, not excluding those which come to us from
other countries and climes- from America, the
East, Australasia, and are not hardy in these
islands, like the Olearia, Eucalyptus and many
others. In the " historical sketch " which pre-
cedes the main alphabetical list of sweet-smell-
ing plants — which is the main purpose of the
book — there is a great deal of interesting matter
concerning the use of sweet-smelling flowers and
herbs in the distillation and manufacture of per-
fumes from the earliest recorded times, and al-o
the association of aromatic plants with the re-
ligious and social observances of the most ancient
peoples. Thus in the East "scented flowers and
the shade of perfumed trees were considered one
of the most indispensable enjoyments of the higher
classes of society," as they are now in fact; and
again, "the luxurious and refined habits of the
Assj-rians involved the use of perfumed plants to
an excess," and we read of one potentate who,
driven to extremities by continuous defeat,
"caused a pile of fragrant herbs to be lighted,
and, placing himself with his wives and trea-
sures upon it, all were swiftly suffocated with
aromatic smoke." The Egyptians also made the
most luxurious use of fragrant incenses, and the
Greeks "ascribed a divine origin to perfumes.'
Sweet-smelling flowers — the Rose particularly —
play a prominent part in Eastern fable. Later
and in our own country the poets are seldom

* " Flora Odorata : or. Sweet-scented Flowers and
Fragrant Leaves." By Donald McDonald. With an
Introduction by W. Kobinson. Sampson Low, Mar-
ston and Co., Limited.

happier than when telling of the beauty of our
native flowers. It is, perhaps, not generally
known that the once much used, but now rather
uub- of -date, scent Patchouli comes from an
Indian herb of that name, and from a tree found
on the islands of the Indian Archipelago comes
the perfume known as Ylang - Ylang, which
name signifies " The Flower of Flowers." The
attar of Ylang-Ylang is more costly than even
the attar of Roses, and the odour of the tree is so
powerful that.it scents the air for miles around.
The chapter on the sweet Violet is very interest-
ing. American) Violets, it seems, are scentless,
though the flower "in all its fragrance blooms
beneath the Palm trees in many lands. The sweet
Violets of Palestine blossom with the Narcissus
and the Hyacinth in the opening .month of the
year, and at that time, too, the women of Aleppo
gather them to adorn their dark tresses." The
book is well printed, and I heartily commend it
to all interested in the subject. C. F.

A DICTIONARY OF HORTICULTURAL
TERMS.*
The want of a good polyglot dictionary of horti-
cultural terms is often felt by English readers of
foreign horticultural journals when they meet
with technical gardening terms the explanation
of which is not to be found in any ordinary dic-
tionary ; and, similarly, foreign readers of our
English horticultural papers must frequently be
equally at a loss in this respect. Under these
circumstances, we hailed the announcement and
subsequent receipt of the present volume as of
something to be thankful for.

The gratitude, however, which we had thus pro-
spectively entertained was turned into disap-
pointment when, having gone carefully through
the book, we found that it is not of the slightest
use to anyone who may want to ascertain the
French, German, or Dutch equivalents for even such
common horticultural terms as layering, mulch-
ing, standard, espalier, bell-glass, and many
others, not one of which is mentioned in its pages.
In fact, notwithstanding its title, the book is
singularly deficient in horticultural terms, as in
its eighty-three pages we have failed to discover
more than thirteen of such terms, viz., cutting,
fork, frame, fruit - garden, grafting, grafted,
grafter, graft, greenhouse, hotbed, mattock, nur-
sery, trellis. Instead of supplying useful infor-
mation of this kind, the author gives us in the
first of the five columns into which each page is
divided an alphabetical list of such Latin and
Latinised-Greek words (mostly adjectives)as occur
in purely botanical descriptions of plants, and of
which the bare and general meanings, as given
by him, can be just as readily found in an ordi-
nary Latin dictionary. Hence we fail to see the
raiwn d'etre of the present volume, and are utterly
at a loss to know why it also contains such words as
nitrum, saltpetre ; statutum, statute ; and vacci-
natio, vaccination.

The task of compiling a good polyglot dictionary
of horticultural terms is still open to anyone who
has the courage to attempt it and the facilities for
carrying it out. Books on the subject, if he can
get them, will be only a partial aid to him, but a
visit to some of the great continental horticultural
establishments, with a complete list of our English
horticultural terms and note-book in hand, would
enable him to furnish himself with equally com-
plete and correct lists of equivalent foreign horti-
cultural terms.

The plan of such a dictionary, to be really use-
ful, should be different from that of the present
volume, which only gives an alphabetical vocabu-
lary of the Latin words in the first column,
followed by their meanings in English. French,
&c. , across the page. A proper polyglot dictionary
of horticultural terms should be divided into as

* " DictiormaireLatin-(Grec)-Franeais-Anglaiu-Alle-
mand-Hollandais des principaux termes employes en
Botanique et en Horticulture." Par A. M. C. Jong-
kindt-Coninck, horticulteur it Bussum,pri;i d'Amster-
dam. Haarlem. 1891.

46

THE GARDEN.

[Januart 19, 1895

many sections as there are languages represented
in it, the terms of each language being arranged
in alphabetical order in the first column of the
pages devoted to the section of that language. It
would then be easy for a Frenchman, say, to find
in the alphabetical arrangement in the first column
of his section any French term of which he wanted
to know the equivalent in any of the other lan-
guages and which he would then find in a line
with his own term in its proper column on the
same page ; and similarly in the case of an English-
man, German, &c.

Awaiting the advent of such a polyglot dic-
tionary of horticultural terms as we have here en-
deavoured to give an outline of, we cannot conclude
the present remarks without expressing our re-
gret that the volume before us, the title of which
had led us to expect much, should, upon examina-
tion, have turned out to be so lamentably deficient
in technical horticultural terms and so unsatis-
factory in its plan of arrangement. W. M.

Flower Garden.

AMARYLLIS BELLADONNA.

There are few more taking sights than a border
with several hundred scapes of this lovely
Amaryllis in bloom under an autumnal sun.
Such an one, extending the length of a range of
glasshouses and containing over a thousand
bulbs, I saw in 1893. I was told that never
before had the flowers been so abundant, and
quite believed the statement, as the flower-
heads formed a 2 feet high cushion of pink and
white, unbroken throughout the length of the
long narrow border. Whatever may have been
the case in other parts of the kingdom — and
from Mr. J. Wood's note (January 13, 1894) it
would seem that in some districts the season of
1893 was not productive of much bloom — I
believe that in the south-western counties, at
any rate, bloom was exceptionally profuse,
while in four cases that came under my notice
the crop of flowers was admittedly a best on
record. Last season the four borders in question
produced but a scanty show.

There is more than one variety of the Bella-
donna Lily, that figured in the accompanying
cut being an exceedingly beautiful form. Seven
years ago I brought home from the Cape of
Good Hope one bulb which has now increased
to six. The individual blooms are very grace-
fully shaped, the petals recurving far more than

The Belladonna Lily. Engraved for The Garden from
a photograph sent by Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert, Torquay.

in the ordinary variety, and their colour, instead
of white, with a well-defined dark pink edging,
being of a uniform flesh colour. The individual
flowers are also larger and borne in greater
numbers on the scape, one scape this autumn
carrying fourteen blooms, and two others
thirteen each ; the scent is also of a rarer
fragrance.

The bulbs in question have always been in
pots, being kept in a moderately warm house

whilst making their growth, transferred to a
cold frame when the foliage has died down, and,
finally, put into a cold greenhouse as soon as
the flower-spike showed. When in flower these,
or plants of the common form, are excellent for
rooms, lasting in beauty from two to three weeks.

In its natural habitat this Amaryllis blooms
from January till March, at which time Vallota
purpurea, which is found in quantity in the
same region, is also in bloom. On being im-
ported it will often be found that the first
flowering will take place in the spring, but
gradually, bowing to the insistence of a changed
climate, the blooming period will be later until it
becomes autumnal.

A soil composed of loam, leaf-mould and sand
in equal quantities will be found most suitable,
nutriment being supplied during the period of
growth in a liquid form. — S. W. F. , Torquay.

■ Why so handsome a plant should be so

seldom seen it is very difficult to say, the more so
as we see species and varieties of plants far less
ornamental and much more difficult to manage,
taking up valuable space and time. When once
planted in the proper position there is only one
thing necessary to ensure success, and that is to
let the bulbs alone. Some amount of patience is,
however, necessary while the bulbs are becoming
established, this taking from three to five years,
and depending to a considerable extent on the
size of the bulbs when planted. Once they are
established they should not be disturbed for years,
when they will each year be a source of pleasure
and increased beauty in any garden. The posi-
tion the bulbs should occupy is of considerable
importance, and there is no better place than at
the foot of a wall with a south aspect. In such a
place they will be dry, warm, and well drained,
which are the more important details to success.
A good depth of soil also is of primary importance.
The soil should if fairly good be dug to a depth of
3 feet, or, failing a sufficient depth of soil, it will
be best excavated to this depth and replaced by
suitable material. Rough, lumpy peat and good
fibrous loam of a somewhat stiff character, in
equal parts, may form the bulk. To two barrow-
fuls of the above add one bushel each of partly
decayed leaves and old mortar rubbish. Six
inches or thereabouts of brickbats to form
a drain should be placed in first, laying some
rough sods of turf cut thick over the drainage,
then fill in the soil to about 18 inches of
the surface. At this point turn in some partly
decayed cow manure, adding 3 inches more soil
and mixing the whole together in the trench.
Now add another 3 inches of soil without manure,
and having made the soil firm, plant the bulbs
— that is to say, the base of the bulbs should
be from 10 inches to 12 inches below the
surface, the bulbs themselves being of large
size. Place a layer of sand at the base of each
bulb and also surround the bulbs with the
same material. In covering the bulbs make
the soil quite firm. The best time in the year
to replant this Amaryllis is the month of June,
though bulbs in the dry state may be obtained
at the present time from the best dealers. These
should be planted at once. Some may think
possibly that this plant requires a good deal of
trouble, but no one who has seen the grand
masses of it flowering beside one of the Orchid
houses at Kew could ever regard any trouble
too great to secure similar results. Here may
be seen bulbs producing two, three and some-
times four spikes each, the latter rising to
nearly or quite 2£ feet high, bearing as many as
seven or nine flowers in an umbel.

Some of the rose-pink shaded flowers are ex-
tremely delicate, while others are equally showy in
their purple-red tints, and others, again, are white,
washed or suffused withsatin-pink. Where healthy
and good bulbs are planted at the start, these will
become established in a year or two and give no
more trouble beyond watering them in their grow-
ing season and occasionally with liquid manure.
' — E. J.

OENOTHERA MARGINATA.

The illustration represents this charming" variety
of the Evening Primrose as growing on a sunny
bank in Messrs. Veitch's nursery at Exeter. In
spite of the past somewhat unfavourable summer
the plant flowered most abundantly throughout
the whole season, producing a fresh flower or
two nearly every day. The individual flowers,
fully 4 inches to 5 inches in diameter, are of the
purest white, with just a faint touch of pink on
the under side of the petals. The plant is rather

(Enothera marginata. Engraved for The Garden
from a photograph sent by Mr. F. W. Meyer ,
Exeter.

susceptible to too much moisture on the foliage,
and therefore succeeds best when planted oa
sloping ground. At Exeter, Torquay, Newton
Abbot and other places GEnothera marginata is
growing in rather heavy loam, in which it seems
to thrive remarkably well. It is a valuable
plant for a sloping border or for the rock garden.
It does not grow more than 8 inches or 9 inches
in height, but spreads out sideways rat her rapidly
when once established, and should therefore not
be associated with the smallest alpines. — M.

On the rockery at Cajrleon, Killiney, Co.

Dublin, there is quite a remarkable colony of
this fine plant. It was originally planted on a
bed raised about 2 feet above the common
level by supporting stones, and, probably pretty
well planted at first, it has extended to the
right and left, has gone backwards, come
over the stones and crept down to the walk
below, covering a space of about 8 feet square each
way. In the genial climate of this neighbour-
hood it flowers in the freest possible manner all
through the season, and is quite one of the
most admired plants in this well-stocked gar-
den. Another probably unique rockwork plant-
to be seen here is Rhynchospermum jasminoides,
pegged down and covering quite a large space,
much cleaner and more healthy than one gene-
rally sees in greenhouses.— T. Smith, Newry.

Lobelia fulgens. — My plan is to take up the
plants about the beginning of October and to put
six or eight together in a seed-pan, some soil be-
ing left attached to the roots. They are put into
a somewhat sheltered cool place and left there for
three weeks ; after this they are housed, and two
weeks later the stems are cut or broken off close
to the soil. The house is kept just above freezing

Januauy 19, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

47

and moisture moderately given. Thus they re-
main until the middle of January, when they
are divided, brought to the warmer house, and
plunged in a border of coal ashes which is slightly
warmed by a flue from underneath. In three
weeks they are established, when they are
hardened off and brought to the greenhouse. In
this way I do not lose any by rot.— Max Letchtlin,
Baden-Baden.

Corydalis cava var. albiflora. — This is a
very pleasing white form of the hollow-rooted
Fumitory, and coming very early into bloom is
very useful in spring gardens. It was a great
favourite with the late Mr. William Ingram at
Belvoir. It forms an excellent companion to the
species which produces purple blossoms from
February to May. Provided the soil be not too
dry the Corydalis will flourish under trees. The
yellow Corydalis (C. lutea) is a well-known plant,
but it is laterin bloomingthan C. cava and its white
variety. — R. D.

WILD PRIMROSES.

The early winter of 1894 has been exceedingly
mild and pleasant. One marked peculiarity
has been the abundance of wild Primroses.
For some reason, which I can never quite under-
stand, Primroses and Polyanthuses are gene-
rally fairly plentiful in our gardens through
November and December — that is, if the
weather is at all favourable to their develop-
ment. But wild Primroses in the hedgerows
and woodlands are usually not to be found till
the warm sunshine of the end of February or
March has brought them out timidly to greet us
in our walks. I remember once when quite a
lad out shooting on the cliffs near Fowey, in
Cornwall, on New Year's Day, I came across a
bank which was yellow with a mass of early
Primroses ; but that was in the far west in a
sheltered nook, and I have never met with any-
thing like it again till this year. This year the
same thing has actually occurred in Gloucester-
shire. In a certain wood, protected from the
north and east, Piimroses have been flowering
profusely all through November and December,
so that not merely a few isolated blooms
could be picked, but baskets have been filled
with the delicious fragrant flowers. This is
certainly a very strange phenomenon, quite un-
precedented in the memory of anyone living in
the neighbourhood, and therefore not to be
explained merely by the fact of a mild winter,
because we have had many mild winters, but
no wild Primroses. I think possibly the ex-
planation is to be found in the great drought of
1893. This is an exceedingly good country for
Primroses usually, but last spring they were
very scarce, so much so, as to strike one in
walking through the country lanes, and still
more in the woods and orchards, some of which
are usually carpeted with a mass of Prim-
roses. It seems to me that the great check
thus experienced prepared the plants for an
earlier bloom in the following season than is
their wont ; and when a mild November and
December promoted growth, the pent-up vigour
burst out into the extraordinary display of
bloom we have lately had. If so, it might
enable us to control the flowering of other
things by keeping them without water. But
drought was not the only peculiarity of 1893 ;
the great heat has also to be taken into account.
I lost quantities of Primrose plants in the beds
in my garden. They withered with the heat
and drought, recovered slightly after a summer
shower, but only to fall off into a worse con-
dition when the dry weather settled in again.

I must tell you that the cottagers who live in
the wood from whence this strange crop of
Primroses has been gathered have a different

theory to account for it. They say that the
plants were trampled down by horses drawing
wood last spring, and that promoted their
growth at an unusual time. I do not think that
this would account for it. I do not suppose that
any of your readers have ever seen baskets of
fine, healthy Primroses, such as we generally
find at the end of March and beginning of April,
gathered in the woods at Christmas. I have
never heard of such a thing before, and I think
it is worth while recording the fact.

I wonder what they would have thought of
them at Covent Garden done up in sweet little
button-holes, with tiny fronds of wild Fern
just tinged with russet, but fresh and green
otherwise, and nestling in a surrounding of
beautiful Moss. I have plenty of Odontoglossum
Rossi majus in flower at the present time iu the
greenhouse, but I would rather have a button-
hole of these unexpected Primroses than even
one made of that beautiful Orchid. There is
nothing like the fresh scent of the wild flower
from the woods, unless possibly it may be the
peculiar and delicious fragrance from the curi-
ous little flowers which grow on the bare stems
of Chimonanthus fragrans at this time of the
year. I have a saucer full of these precious
flowers by my side as I sit by the Christmas
fire, and every draught caused by the slightest
motion in the room wafts that wonderful scent
across one's face. Yet how few people know of
its existence.

A Gloucestershire Parson.

THE QUILLED GERMAN ASTER.

I think the quilled German Aster is beginning to
be more generally recognised as a valuable type

for cutting than it was a few year.-" ago. Of late
years there has been a tendency to grow larger
Asters, of which the Comet is the latest type,
and a kind of reaction against these grosser
forms is setting in. For beauty, symmetry, diaste-
mas and variety, the quilled Aster — provided, of
course, the strain is good (and there is adiltieulty in
obtaining one at the present day) — is unequalled,
if we except the bouquet varieties among the
flat-petalled types. It may be objected to that
the growth of the quilled Aster is rather tall and
the flower-stems spreading, yet a line of plants of
uniform height and quality is a very pleasing
object in a garden. The stems are long, stout and
rigid, and therefore particularly well adapted for
cutting, and they endure fresh and bright for some
time in a cut state.

As an exhibition flower the quilled Aster is very
attractive. In the west of England one sees them
at their best. The shows held at Taunton, Bath,
Trowbridge and other western towns bring
together superb stands of this flower, produced
by means of good cultivation. The quilled
Aster bunches well, as has been demonstrated at
some of the meetings of the Royal Horticultural
Society — much better indeed than some of the
large flat-petalled types.

Those who grow for exhibition sow the seeds
thinly in the month of April, using pans of very
rich soil, with a mixture of leaf mould and a
liberal allowance of sand. The pans are placed in
a cold frame and the lights kept closed until the
seedlings appear above the surface, and as they
increase in size water has to be given care-
fully, with an abundance of air to make them
stocky. When the plants show the second and
third leaves it is the custom to prick them off into
boxes of similar soil, the plants 2 inches apart,
keeping them close for three or four days, and
then exposing them by day, but protecting them
from late frosts at night. Care is taken to get
the plants as sturdy as possible, and when they
are 3 inches in height, and before they show signs
of sending up a stem, they are planted out where
they are to flower, generally in lines 'JO inches
apart, the plants a foot apart in the lines. The

bed is made of rich soil, and some cultivators
prefer strong pig manure to any other, as it
appears to impart size to the flowers. Stakes
are placed to the plants. In order to have fine
blooms for exhibition, a covering of light canvas
is employed, not only to ward off hot sun or rain,
but to assist the flowers in developing gradually.
Plants grown in this way will supply an abund-
ance of bloom from the first week in August until
the end of October. As a matter of course, the
plants are freely watered when necessary.

The plants do not require continuous sunshine
to flower well, but they may be said to revel in
cloudy, dry days and abundant night dews. It
may be added that under ordinary garden culture
the plants should be in rich soil and have an
occasional dressing of some artificial manure. It
is astonishing how many blooms a plant will pro-
duce, and they last for a long time when placed
in water. Of varieties there are many. Some are
self-coloured, including the new yellow variety
shown by Mr. Henry Cannell last summer ; some
are mottled in two or three colours, and some are
rendered parti-coloured by having two distinct
zones of colour, but all are very attractive and
well deserving of culture. R. D.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Herraceous plants. — The exceptionally mild
autumn and early winter, together with a heavy
rainfall, have been answerable for early growth on
nearly all herbaceous plants, and those who did
the necessary amount of division and replanting
towards the close of the year were well advised.
Of course, such work may be continued, given
open weather through January, and those things
which most readily submit to division will grow
and flower fairly well through the next summer if
the work is carefully performed, but in the ma-
jority of cases it may be safely asserted that root-
disturbance is not advisable when growth is mov-
ing strongly. Such things as Pyrethrums, peren-
nial Sunflowers and Starworts will bear late divi-
sion, for either the root massing is so pronounced
that the severance is not severely felt, as with
Pyrethrums, and in the case of late-flowering
plants growth is as a rule proportionately late.
In all planting of herbaceous things, especially in
the case of late removals, a good surface mulching
is necessary. Ground left quite unprotected will
be so pulled about by frost as to check the quick
formation of new roots, and it will also dry out
very quickly given an early spell of sunshine and
drying winds. In connection with the general
planting of herbaceous things, it may be noted
that the question of special places for different
families is not always such an important point as
suitability of soil and the endeavour when special
requirements are mentioned to meet the necessities
of the case by making the best of existing condi-
tions. The planter need not despair of doing
justice to some particular family even if he has in
the ground he is working no place he may think
naturally suited to its successful cultivation. It
may mean the addition of a heavier or lighter
compost to the natural soil, a little excavation,
draining, something to raise the plants above the
natural level, or a heavy winter mulching, but
in any case the desired end is generally effected
without a deal of trouble. I remember when start-
ing the naturalisation of Daffodils in our pleasure
grounds it was considered that the shallow soil
resting on sand was likely to be against a long life
for the bulbs. A careful examination, however,
proved that the sand was of a damp, fairly hold-
ing nature, and as this formation is a characteristic
only of the higher parts of the grounds, the ineom-
parabilis family were planted here and have done
fairly well, whilst the trumpets found a home in
stiffer soil and in lower sites.

If any alterations are necessary on lawns they
should be put in hand at once if not already done.
They may possibly include the enlargement of
some beds, the filling up of others, and the re-
moval of any objectionable objects. In the latter
case the absolute necessity of dispensing with
anything in the way of tree or shrub that is

48

THE GARDEN.

[Jancaey 19, 1895.

scraggy and unhealthy and never likely to develop
into a nice specimen cannot be too strongly en-
forced. The argument is sometimes advanced
that such things are valuable as rare plants. This,
however, does not justify their retention in any
prominent place; they should be removed to a
hospital in some out-of-the-way corner where they
may have a chance of recovering, and their places
be tilled with healthy plants. The enlargement of
beds should be specially considered in connection
with those parts of the garden that may lie at
some distance from frequented paths and where
it is deemed advisable to have a bright display,
small beds and dwarf planting being under these
conditions worse than useless, and a Grass bank
or a belt of greenery decidedly preferable. Such
places are suitable for the employment of high-
class shrubs, possibly in connection with tall
perennials, as, for instance, the double-flowering
Deutzia with Delphiniums and Hydrangea panicu-
lata with the hardy Fuchsias. Many of the Star-
worts.also the Sunflowers, as Helianthusmultiflorus
plenus and Soleil d'Or, are also well suited for such
positions. In connection with the enlargement of
beds it may be noted that even on small lawns a
few beds of fair size are always preferable to a host
of little beds, the flower gardener can plant to
much better advantage, and in all cases a goodly
proportion of green carpet between the beds ren-
ders the planting all the more effective. If any
trees of considerable size are removed from the
lawn and it is not deemed advisable to replace
them, a portion of the stump may remain to be
clothed with some climbing plant, one of the
Clematises or Ceanothuses, or a good rambling
Rose like Aiinee Vibert. The last named where
it clothes an old stump of Pinus Cembra and
forms a dense bush 7 feet high and 15 feet in
diameter is in its season decidedly the most at-
tractive feature in our flower garden. Formal
geometrical gardens are now the exception rather
than the rule, but if a new design is to be laid
down or any alterations are proposed to plans
that already exist, the work should be pushed
forward when the weather is suitable. Whether
the garden is to be cut out on turf or the edges of
the beds are to be of Box, with intervening walks,
the plan, if somewhat complicated, should be
drawn to a scale, and then if the ground is
marked out on similar lines the gardener has
little difficulty in transferring even the most
elaborate designs from paper to the soil. In
cutting out and laying turf or Box the work
should be accurately performed.

If a decision has not already been made as to
the numbers and varieties of tender plants re-
quired for summer planting, no time should be
lost in doing so ; it is useless blaming the propaga-
tor for deficiencies unless he knows accurately
what is required of him. It may be well at this
time to recall the general aspect of the flower
garden in 1894 with the view to remember success
and failure. Personally I am inclined to give
extra prominence this year to Antirrhinums,
Fuchsias, and Violas, and to considerably reduce
the number of zonal Pelargoniums. The stronger
growing varieties of these were a failure in 1894,
the damp summer being conducive to rank growth,
but very little flower : in fact, all through the
sunless time one might visit several beds without
finding a properly developed truss. Begonias
were considerably better than in 189 •', except the
very large-flowered varieties, which were much
beaten down by the rain. E. Burrell.

Claremont.

Belvoir Castle in the spring of 18931 could not
help being struck with the appearance of S.
ligulata doing so well under the shade of Yews. It
was flowering with great freedom, as it usually
does in this position, and it is worth noting as
useful for such a purpose. — R. D.

Stove and Greenhouse.

RICTiARDIA REHMANNI.

(the rose-coloured arum lily.)

A really rose-coloured Arum Lily with flowers
the size of those of the common Richardia
ffithiopica would certainly prove a most accept-
able and serviceable addition, but, alas ! this
phenomenal plant still remains to be discovered,
and for the present we shall have to be content
with the subject of the accompanying engrav-
ing, which represents a vigorous example of the
new Richardia Rehmanni, a true Arum Lily,
although differing entirely in aspect and stature
from the everywhere familiar Lily of the Nile

fertilised artificially, I am not without hope of
eventually raising some more highly coloured
forms. C. G. Van Tubergen, Jun.

Richardia Rehmanni. Engraved for The Garden
from a photo sent by C. G. Van Tubergen, Jan.

Variegated Sweet-scented Tobacco (Xico-
tiana atfinis foliia variegatis). — This variegated form of
the popular Sweet-scented Tobacco should prove a wel-
come addition to those who are fond of variegated
foliage. It is equal in size to the green kind and the
leaves are prettily variegated with white, which will
contrast well with other plants. — Y\ .

Saxifraga ligulata. — One is sometimes asked
to name a plant that will do well under trees. It
must be admitted that the choice is limited, and
there are but few subjects which flourish under the
shade of overhanging boughs. When I was at

(Richardia tethiopica). As shown in the en-
graving, the foliage of this plant is one of its
most distinct characters, being lanceolate in
form and resembling the foliage of some of the
members of that group of plants, the Scita-
minese, to which Cannas, <fcc, belong. The
flowers of the R. Rehmanni are of about the
size and shape of those of the well-known R.
albo maculata ; in my plants the buds were
streaked with chocolate-brown, and the spathes
on unfolding were in the inside of a shade of
rose colour, as one sees in soft coloured forms
of Lycaste Skinneri. Contrary to " W. W.V
statement in his description of this plant on
p. 447 of last year's issue of The Garden, the
flowers of my specimens retained their rosy
colour to the last, the spathes turning to a
greenish colour on reaching maturity. This
difference is perhaps due to the fact that the
plants which flowered at Kew and at Cam-
bridge had been introduced from Natal (be-
tween 28° and 30° of latitude) ; whereas I re-
ceived my bulbs from a friend living as far
north as 24° latitude. My plants are now
ripening seed freely, and as the flowers wera all

Roman Hyacinths.— It is very gratifying to
find "Grower" — see page 12 — referring to the
very satisfactory flowering of his bulbs this season,
a fact alone which speaks volumes for their general
culture. So satisfactory a state of things could
not possibly have resulted from anything but
thoroughly matured bulbs, in the first place, and,
secondly, from none but bulbs of first quality. I
had almost said bulbs of " first size," but too fre-
quently in these things mere size does not denote
quality. "Grower" thinks it possible to over-
estimate the importance of thorough ripening.
Here I cannot agree with him. He must remem-
ber that though the year 1894 was by no means
noteworthy for sun or heat in England, we have
not to depend on our own season for the growth
of these Roman Hyacinths which we receive each
year from naturally warmer and sunnier climes.
The very early date at which we receive supplies
each year fully illustrates the greater natural
warmth and a much earlier season than our own.
The all-important period for these bulbous plants
resolves itself into the narrow limits of about three
weeks, during which the germ of the ensuing
season's flower is laid. Provided there is at this
particular season a sufficiency of sun and warmth,
then all is well, but if thisessential— and I regard
it as absolute— is wanting, so will the flower-
spikes also be wanting in quantity and quality.
If "Grower" doubts this, let him secure some of
the best Roman Hyacinth bulbs another season
as soon as they come to hand, plant them in
an English garden and grow them there a full
season. In the following year let him force these
beside the annually imported ones, and see for
himself the difference. — E. J.

Wallflowers under glass.— Those who have
cold frames to spare during the winter might do
worse than fill them with Wallflowers. If the
plants are well grown, such early blooming varie-
ties as Harbinger and Early Paris Market will
form buds early in the autumn, and with protec-
tion will open their flowers during the winter and
early spring. After some winters a few dozen
Wallflowers cared for in this way are of great
use. It not infrequently happens that a severe
winter very much retards and sometimes kills
Wallflowers in the open air, and then one is glad
to be able to gather a few nice heads of bloom
from sheltered plants. Bitter winds with bright
sun are also apt to prevail in March, and plants
protected will then give blooms fine in colour and
rich in fragrance. Seed should be sown early in
March in the open ground, setting out the young
plants as soon as large enough to handle in the
most exposed position in the garden. Give them
ample space to enable them to make a sturdy
growth and well ripen it and lift them carefully
early in November. The old-fashioned double
yellow Golden Drop is as worthy of a place under
glass as many things more in fashion at the pre-
sent time. Cuttings of this variety root readily.
The plants should be grown along in pots in the
open air, getting them into 7-inch pots in early
summer. They will in this condition bear a little
forcing, and will produce large fragrant spikes of
bloom quite early in spring. — J. C. B.

Bouvardias. — At one time Bouvardias could
be well grown within the London district, but
now with the great increase in bricks and mortar
the fogs experienced during the autumn and
winter are far more sulphur-laden than they
were formerly, and as a class Bouvardias are the
first to suffer under such conditions. They will
grow well enough during the summer months, and
consequently in the early autumn good flowering
examples may be had, which will behave in a
satisfactory manner till the fogs come, when a
few hours will suffice to transform a house of
thriving plants into a mere wreck. The flowers
do not suffer to anything like the same extent as
the foliage, for every leaf presents such a burnt
up appearance as if it had been exposed to a fire.

January 19, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

49

Even on plants that have been so injured the
flowers will open fairly well, so that a few years
ago when Bouvardias were grown in quantity by
our market growers almost in London itself, I
have seen a house of them yield a fair return in
the shape of cut bloom, while nearly all the leaves
had betn killed. The difficulty attending plant
cultivation in or around London increases every
year, and it is no easy matter to keep some plants
alive which a few years ago could be grown in a
satisfactory manner. Besides Bouvardias, such
plants as Pelargoniums will lose a great many
leaves, Indian Azaleas will often become nearly
bare, and many of the flowers refuse to open
properly. Rhododendrons of the Javan group
will, if a suitable temperature is maintained,
flower well in the winter despite the fogs, but the
numerous garden varieties claiming parentage
chiefly from the Himalayan R. ciliatum and R.
Edgeworthi cannot always be so thoroughly de-
pended upon, for though in most seasons they
bloom well, yet a fog of unusual density will some-
times cause many of the hard prominent flower-
buds to drop. — H. P.

SHORT XOTES.— STOVE db GREENHOUSE-

Bambusa Fortunei foliis aureo-varie-
gatis. In Messrs. Peed and Sons' nursery at Tulse
Hill this pretty ornamental little plant is grown in
Quantity, and is very attractive in such a small state.
The brie lit golden variegation is very tine and contrasts
well with Final] Ferns and other plants when used in
small rustic vases. For this work and other indoor
decorations it is admirably adapted. — W.

Iapageria rosea (Nash Court variety).— Un-
doubtedly the finest variety of this magnificent climber
i- the one known as the Nash Court variety. In the
urn snirs of Mess s. Laing at Forest Hill amagnilicent
specimen in full flower covers a large portion of the
roof of one of the houses. It is very free-flowering
and robust in growth, the individual blooms being very
large and ft' an intense deep shade of colour. — G.

Begonia Arthur Malet.— This Begonia, be-
longing to the class with ornamental foliage, is very
effective for greenhouse decoration. It is of easy cul-
ture, requiring during the winter months a tempera-
ture of about 55°. In addition to the brilliant display
made by the foliage, the plants when in good condition
c- ntinue to flower as long as they are kept growing.
It appears to be a great favourite and likely to hold
its own f r some time to come. — W. H. G.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

January 15.
Tins, the first meeting of the year, was not an
extensive one ; in fact, its extent was appreciably
less than several of its more immediate predeces-
sors. What was lacking, however, in this respect
was amply compensated for in the several features
of interest amongst the Orchids and other ex-
hibits, notably the Primulas shown by the Read-
ing firm, which gave abundant proof of the care
bestowed upon the selection and hybridisation of
this most useful winter flower. Of the Orchids,
as far as ceitificates were concerned, it was almost
entirely a field day for hybrid Cypripediums.
Eight of thee h3'brid Slippers received awards of
merit, and others were shown which a few years
ago would have easily won that distinction.
Several fine forms of Ladia anceps were shown
from various sources, whilst the earlier of the
spring-flowering Dendrobes were present, promi-
nent amongst which were some of the choice
hybrids raised at Burford Lodge. A very good
plant of Cymbidium Traceyanum was exhibited
with a spike of about ten of its scented flowers.
This is the first plant that has been shown of this
Orchid since that from The Dell collection, al-
though one other from the same source as the
present one was lately sold by auction in the City.
The work of both the floral and the fruit com-

mittees was comparatively light, particularly that
of the latter, by whom no awards were made to any
new productions.

Orchid Committee.

Numbers of small exhibits were exhibited here'
several of which were cut examples, regard being
had no doubt to the wintry weather of the past
week or two.

A first class certificate was awarded to —

L.ELIA anceps Crawshayana, of which a very
fine spike of half a dozen blooms was exhibited.
It is quite a major form of the type, having large
flowers with unusually broad petals and long
sepals, which were suffused with a deep rosy
purple tint, deeper than in the species, the lip at
the same time being well marked with rich violet-
crimson. From Mr. De Barri Crawshay, Rosefield,
Sevenoaks.

Awards of merit were voted to —

Cypripedicm J. H. Berry. — A cross between
C. Harrisianum superbiens and C. eoncolor, the
influence of the latter parent being most apparent
in the contour of the flower, the petals of which
are very broad, the lip large, also the dorsal sepal,
the markings being rich purple of divers shades,
the darkest colour being seen in the upper
sepal, a shading of pale green helping to set the
flower off to better advantage. From Messrs.
Sander and Co., St. Albans.

Cypripedium M.me. Jules Hye. — Undoubtedly
a hybrid, although the parentage was not given.
It has the character of C. Leeanum in a measure,
also of C. Spicerianum in the form of the dorsal
sepal ; the flower was remarkable for its bold and
massive appearance, as well as its rich colouring.
The lip was extra large and of a dark bronzy
shade, the dorsal sepal also large, reflexed at the
base and marked with dark vinous purple, a
darker line of which ran through the centre, the
base being green ; the petals were broad and
rounded at the extremities, bronzy green, with
darker lines. From M. Jules Hye, Ghent.

Cypripedium nitens superbum, of which hy-
brid it is a very superior form with larger and
brighter flowers, the dorsal sepal being finer and
more distinctly marked, whilst both thj sepals
and petals were of a deeper colour. The plant to
which this award was made bore five large flowers,
the growth being vigorous. From Mr. W. Cobb,
Dulcote, Tunbridge Wells. A smaller plant was
also shown by Messrs. Sander and Co.

Cypripedium Norma (C. Niobe x C. Spicer-
ianum).— From such a cross this could scarcely
fail to be a very handsome and distinct seed-
lin"' ; the dorsal sepal showed the influence of
the latter parent in shape, being shaded with
vinous purple and darker lines on a white ground ;
the petals resemble those of C. Niobe, being
drooping, as in C. Pairrieanum, one of the parents
of the latter hybrid. These are shaded and veined
with dark purple ; the lip is of a dark bronzy
shade. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea.

Cypripedium Mimosa superbiens (C. Arthuria-
num x C. Spicerianum), in which hybrid C.
Fairrieanum was again^traceable, it being one of
the parents of C. Arthurianum, the petals pos-
sessing the characteristic drooping tendency, but
much darker in colour, a dark bronze-purple on a
light yellow ground ; the lip is that of C. Spiceri-
num, "so also is the dorsal sepal in shape, being
large anil marked with dark purple in spots and
lines, the base being green, the broad margin
white. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

Cypripedium Henry Graves, Junr. (C. Law-
renceanum x C. Marshallianum (?). — A very dis-
tinct and in some respects singular hybrid,
the lip creamy yellow and rather small ; the
dorsal sepal has the features of the former
parent, with much of its colouring, but more dif-
fused, the petals being darker and sparsely
spotted. The plant shown bore evidence of a
vigorous constitution. From Mr. Henry Graves,
Orange, New Jersey, U.S.A.

Cypripedium Mrs. Fred Hardy (C. super-
biens X C. bellatulum), to which has in a measure
been imparted the form of the latter parent, with

its broad petals and spottings of a similar colour ;
the lip is that of 0. superbiens, but if anything
smaller, with bronzy veins and greenish white
base ; the dorsal sepal is very distinct, with dark
veins and lines, a sturdy looking and very promis-
ing hybrid. From Messrs. Sander and Co.

Cypripedium Madame Georges Truffaut (C.
ciliolare x C. Stonei). — A noble-looking and very
fine hybrid, with much of the features of C. Mor-
gan*, but darker in colour throughout. The spike
bore two well-developed flowers. The influence of

C. ciliolare is most apparent in the lip and in the
deeper colour, whilst C. Stonei is clearly seen in th
pointed dorsal sepalwhichisofadark bronzy-purple
in lines and spots on a light ground. The petals
are broader than in C. Stonei, but of the same
character, being also much darker in colour. From
Messrs. Sander & Co.

ODONTOGLOSSUM NEBUXOSUM CANDIDUI.UM. — A
very beautiful form of this good old Odontoglot, be-
ing most distinct with its milky white (lowers.
From Mr. Frederick Hardy, TyntesSeld, Ashton-
on-Mersey.

Botanical certificates were awarded to Maxillaria
ochroleuca, a very pretty species with narrow-
sepals and petals creamy white in colour, with a
deep golden lip, and to Dendrobium bursigerum
album, a white form with small flowers densely
packed in the short spikes. Both of these were
shown by Messrs. Sander & Co. Dendrobium
Wattianum, a very pretty species of extremely
slender, but erect growth, with numbers of ter-
minal spikes of transparent white flowers some 3
inches in width, with a golden blotch on the lip
which is deeply serrated (worth an award of merit),
and Dendrobium dicuphum, a very beautiful
Orchid, and one that is quite a miniature of

D. PhaUenopsis Schriederianum, having all its
features and growth, the flowers being about 1 inch
across, pure white, with deep purple veins in the
throat, were also given botanical certificates. Both
came from Sir Trevor Lawrence. Cypripedium
Boissierianum, one of the Selenipedium group,
with pale greenish-yellow flowers, more singular
than beautiful, was also given a botanical certifi-
cate. From Mr. Thomas Statter.

Other Orchid exhibits were numerous, although
not of an extensive character. Mr. F. Hardy had
a good variety of Odontoglossum crispum, with a
long spike of light-coloured flowers; also cut
blooms of Ladio-Cattleya Pallas superba, one of the
finest of the recent Veitchian hybrid=, clearly
showing its relationship to both Ladia crispa and
Cattleya Dowiana. Also from the same source
came a hybrid Cypripedium (C. Boxalli x C. vil-
losum) of intermediate character, but darker ;
Cattleya Percivaliana, of which an extra fine
variety was shown, with broad petals and a dark
crimson-purple blotch on the lip (a fine form) ;
Cypripedium Swinburnei magnilicum, a recently
certificated hybrid, better in this instance than
when the award was made ; and Cypripedium
Bellina, another hybrid, but not sufficiently dis-
tinct. Mr. Ingram, Elstead, Godalming, showed
Cattleya Percivaliana (?) alba, which bore more
resemblance to C. Trinnie in the formation of the
lip ; nevertheless, a beautiful variety. From Mr.
Cobb came Cypripedium Boxalli (Cobb's var ),
and one with much darker colouring, with lus-
trous, almost black markings, notably in the
dorsal sepal. Sir Trevor Lawrence had a small,
but choice selection, chief amongst which were
several hybrid Dendrobes, the result of crossing
D. Ainsworthi and D. Findleyanum, in all of
which the colouring was much softened through
the influence of the latter. These comprised
D. chrysodiscus, with large flowers with a
golden disc upon the labellum, further enhanced
by a dark crimson centre; D. xanthocentrum,
having more old gold colour on the lip, otherwise
paler; also D. xanthocentrum var., with even
less colour, but with broader sepals and petals, a
distinctly beautiful form ; D. Hebe, having extra
large blossoms, the lip being broad, with pale
golden centre and tipped with palest purple, the
sepals and petals white, with similar shading at
the points ; and D. pallens, a particularly fine
form, with pure white sepals and petals, very

50

THE GARDEN.

[January 19, 1895.

faintly tipped with pale purple. These hybrids
showed their more distinct relationship to I).
nobile, one of the parents of D. Ainsworthi. D.
burfordense (D. Linawianum x D. aureum), the
flowers of which were suffused with lilac-purple,
was included. The Burford Lodge var. of D.
nobile, with dark blotches on the two lower
sepals as upon the Up, was also included ; also
Epidendrum polybulbon, a small, but very inter-
esting species to which a cultural commendation
wa9 awarded. Lselia autumnalis alba was repre-
sented by two fine spikes of its charming white
flowers, showing the faintest flush of palest
purple. Phahenopsis Aphrodite, P. leucorrhoda,
with faint flush of rosy pink, and P. Schilleriana
were present in cut spikes, and of Masdevallia
Courtauldiana, a small, but profusely flowered ex-
ample was shown, its pale lilac-purple flowers being
very distinct. Mr. Lutwyche, Beckenham, staged
Cypripedium sylhetense majus, one of the insigne
race, but with smaller, although distinctly marked
flowers, also Cypripedium insigne montanum.

From Lord Rothschild's collection at Tring
Mr. Hill brought a marvellously line spike of Pha-
lanopsis F. L. Ames, one of the finest of hybrids,
with seven expanded flowers and as many buds to
open. The sepals and petals are pure white, the
lip suffused with reddish purple. To this a cul-
tural commendation was most deservedly awarded.
Prom Mr. Forster Alcock came a plant of that
singularly coloured Slipper, Cypripedium tonsum,
a pale-coloured species with a bold, well-formed
flower. Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons showed an-
other hybrid Cypripedium in C. -Eson (C. Druryi
x C. insigne), the former parent having tended to
deepen the colouring to the flower, the form of
which partook of C. insigne. Mr. Ashworth,
Harefield Hall, Wilmslow, Cheshire, had cut
flowers of several fine forms of La4ia anceps,
notably L. a. Amesiana, an extra fine form, with
broad petals and distinct markings. Zygopetalum
Mackayi superbum came from the same source,
and that fine old hybrid Orchid, Lselia exoniensis,
of which four good flowers were shown. It is not
often one sees this one of the first hybrids.
Messrs. Sander and Co., in addition to their
certificated plants, had several others, chief
amongst which were some very choice forms of
La?lia anceps, the white varieties in particular, the
best amongst which was L. a. Sanderiana, with
the purest of white sepals and petals, the lip hav-
ing a rich violet-purple blotch with dark lines in
the throat, the flowers of extra substance. L. a.
Hollidayana, another fine white form, has the lip
with lighter markings and only a faint trace of
purple ; this is evidently a very distinct and free
variety. Pescatorea Klabochorum was represented
by one plant bearing a fine large flower. Platy-
clinis pallida, with very sweetly-scented creamy
white flowers on large slender spikes, most attrac-
tive by reason of its perfume ; Cycnoches peruvi-
anum, a small growing species, both singular and
interesting ; Odontoglossum mirandum, with pale
chocolate sepals and petals margined with greenish
yellow; the distinct and fine hybrid Cymbidium
Winnianum, bearing three spikes of considerable
length, the sepals and petals of a soft light yellow
or straw colour, the lip white with pale crimson
spots, and Phaio-Calanthe Arnoldi.*, a bi-generic
cross of distinct features, the flowers creamy
white and rosy purple, were also included. Cypri-
pediums were represented by very fine forms of C.
Leeanum, as C. L. James Hamilton, with its
large pure white dorsal sepal, quite in contrast to
the darker sepals and deep bronzy lip ; C. L. vir-
ginale is another very superior form with light
coloured flowers of large size ; C. Lynchianum, with
some of the features of C. Lathamianum, but with
more old gold suffusion in the flowers, had fine large
flowers, the dorsal sepal reflexed with incurved
edges. C. nitens superbum was also shown here (see
certificated plants). C. Calypso (Oakwood var.)
was shown well. This is a markedly superior form,
with darker dorsal sepal and a fine lip ; C. minia-
luin, <mite intermediate between C. CurtisiandC.
insigne, its parents, is very distinct in its features ;
C. Ridolfhianum, another distinct hybrid, with
pale greenish-yellow ground and dark bronzy-

crimson lines on sepals and petals, has the dorsal
edged wttb white. Odontoglossum crispum and
O. Pescatorei were both included. Mr. Statter
had Cypripedium nitens in good condition, C.
Dariesianum (C. Boxalli atratumxC. Argus), the
petals retaining the fine distinct spotting of C.
Argus, the lip bronz3'-green, and the dorsal sepal
very dark maroon, with light green edges ; C.
Euphrosyne, a form of C. Lathamianum ; also C.
Leeanum aureum, with much more of the golden
colour apparent in the flower, a fine variety. This
was the result of crossing C. Spicerianum with a
yellow C. insigne. From Mr. Prewett, Swiss
Nursery, Hammersmith, came a very healthy
plant of the at present extremely rare Cymbi-
dium Traceyanum. The plant in question bore
one good spike with fine blooms, not so large or
so vigorous as Baron Schrceder's example shown
late in 1894, but identical with it. This is the
second plant that has flowered with Mr. Prewett,
being part of a purchase that was presumably C.
Lowianum, the growth being but slightly diffe-
rent therefrom. Cymbidium Traceyanum does
not, it is stated, come from the same locality as
C. Lowianum ; hence it is possible some more of
the former may yet be forthcoming. A grand
spike of Fhala-nopsis Aphrodite from an unknown
contributor was shown with fourteen large blooms.

Floral Committee.

There were not many exhibits before this com-
mittee.

A first-class certificate went to each of the fol-
lowing : —

LachenaliA quadricolor maculata. — Flower-
spikes of this very charming Lachenalia came
from Mr. F. YV. Moore, of the Glasnevin Botanic
Gardens. It is a robust and handsome variety,
the flowers produced freely on the scape and in-
dividually rich in colour. The extreme base is
orange, varying to a reddish tone, the sepals deep
green, also the petals, which have an apex of deep
purple-crimson. L. quadricolor, the type, is a
well-known species, synonymous with L. tricolor.
It is a pity that Lachenalias are not more grown.
There are many good kinds for colour in cultiva-
tion.

Rhododendron ponticum foliis-purpureis. —
This is a very handsome shrub, similar to the type
in growth, but the foliage is almost of a deep
crimson-brown shade, very rich, decided and wel-
come. With the winter sun shining upon it such
a shrub would create a rich colour picture in the
garden. There is no doubt about its distinctness
and the beauty of its colouring. From Messrs.
Wm. Paul and Son, Waltham Cross, Herts.

An award of merit went to each of the follow-
ing :—

Chinese Primula Giant Rosy Queen. — This
was one of the many beautiful varieties in the
collection of Primulas shown by Messrs. Sutton
and Sons, of Reading. The present variety is
very handsome, the individual flowers large, wavy
and delicate rose, with greenish-yellow eye, the
plant being free both in growth and bloom, with
a well-built-up truss, whilst the leafage is dis-
tinctly Fern-like.

Persian Cyclamens. — An award of merit was
also given to Messrs. Sutton & Sons for their fine
strain of Cyclamens, comprising a variety of
colours. Purple Queen has, as its name suggests,
purplish flowers, but we do not care for this so
much as one named Salmon Queen, to which we
think the award more directly applied. This is a
sturdy, free-blooming plant, with neat, well-
formed flowers of a carmine or salmon-rose shade,
very clear and distinct.

Chrysanthemum Jeanette Sheaham. — This
was given this award as a late decorative variety.
It is very free, the flowers of the Japanese charac-
ter, but of a yellow colour, deepening in the centre.
It will doubtless be useful as a Japanese flowering
kind, but is not particularly uncommon in other
ways. Exhibited by Mr. D. Sheaham, Hartfield
Road Nursery, Wimbledon.

Rose Mrs. Pierpont Morgan. — This is an
American variety, the flowers exhibited having

been sent from America, this accounting for their
damaged petals. It is described as a sport from
Mine. Cusin, and has much the aspect of that
beautiful Rose, the petals forming a bloom of
charming expression, whilst the colour is deep
rose. When, however, the blooms are fresh, the
tint may be clearer and more, so to say, glistening.
A great feature is its fragrance, even in the blooms
shown, this being as delightful as in any Tea Rose
we know, a precious trait not always considered
by raisers of new kinds. Shown by Mr. John N.
May, Summit, New Jersey, U.S.A.

Chrysanthemum L. Canning. — This was shown
under the name of Heine's White or similar title,
but the above is the correct designation. A lovely
plant full of bloom was shown by Mr. Thomas,
of the Royal Gardens, Frogmore. It is a Japan-
ese variety, the flowers full, very freely produced
and white, touched with rose.

There were very few miscellaneous exhibits.
The only medal given was a silver one, which went
to the large and interesting display of the various
types of Chinese Primulas from Messrs. Sutton
and Sons. The double varieties were extremely
beautiful, the plants well grown and the flowers
of refined colours. Alba magnifica is white,
touched with rose, and the double Heliotrope, a
soft heliotrope colour, less pronounced, but quite
as pleasing as the double blue, which is a lovely
shade, not slaty or purple, but clear and welcome.
Double Carnation Flake, the flowers white, flaked
with light purple, a very free-blooming variety,
and such single kinds as Pearl, white, viith
yellow eye ; Giant Pink, a large handsome flower,
white, with suffusion of pink ; Grenadier, brick-
red, a bright telling colour, were also good.
Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent,
showed a few of their fine single Chinese Primulas,
as Neatness, a delicate rose and white flower ;
Duchess of Fife, soft rose ; Kentish Purple,
deep crimson - purple, the beautiful Eynsford
White, Cannell's Pink, a distinct and attractive
flower of this colour, and Swanley Yellow, a near
approach to a true yellow variet}', the flower of
this colour save for a rather broad creamy white
margin. Messrs. Cannell also had a bunch of
that fine Canna Queen Charlotte, very good for
this season. Messrs. J. Laing and Sons, Forest
Hill, S.E., exhibited a basketful of Nicotiana
affinis variegata. The leaves are abundant, glau-
cous, margined with creamy white. Carnation
Jane Collins, shown by Messrs. Collins Bros,
and Gabriel, Waterloo Road, S.E., appears the
same as Will Threlfall. It is, we believe, sup-
posed to be a cross with a tree variety and one of
the Malmaison types, but there was nothing to
indicate such relationship. The flower is of fair
size, clear yellow, and scentless, the plant strong
in growth. Mr. Moore sent from Glasnevin Der-
matobotrys Saundersi, an interesting plant with
an umbel of tubular reddish flowers, and Hippe-
astrum aulicum grandiflorum, which has far
larger flowers than the type. Mr. H. Howell,
Queen's Nursery, Hammersmith, had Pteris tre-
mula Howelli, a very graceful Fern with dense
pinna1.

Fruit Committee.

A large number of members was present at this
the first meeting of the year. Messrs. Cheal and
Sons, Crawley, Sussex, staged seventy dishes of
Apples and about ten cf Pears. The Apples were
firm, well coloured, and not extra large. There
were some very nice examples of Frogmore Pro-
lific, Lord Derby, Sandringham, and Mere de
Mt'nage in baskets, with good single dishes of
Blenheim Orange, Schoolmaster, Cellini, Lord
Burghley, Hollandbury, and Bismarck, which
appears to have done well in most places, a
wet season suiting it. The Crown Apple, Annie
Elizabeth, and Prince Albert were the best cook-
ing varieties. Among the dessert kinds, Clay-
gate Pearmain, Cox's Orange, several varieties of
the Russets, Ribston Pippin, the new Atalanta,
and Swedish Reinette were the best. The best
Pears were Chas. Cognee, a large nice-looking
fruit and very late, Duchesse de Nemours, Catillac,
Verulam, and Uvedale's St. Germain (silver
Knightian medal). Messrs. Laing and Sons,

Januahy 10, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

51

Forest Hill, staged a smaller collection nicely
arranged with Ferns in pots, the best fruits being
Bismarck, Brabant Bellefleur, Tower of Glamis,
(Jloria Mundi, Lord Derby, Striped Beaufin,
Sandringham, Flower of Kent, Lady Henniker,
and Royal Russet (silver Banksian medal). A
very nice dish of Tomatoes was sent by Mr. J.
Cray, Bodorgan Gardens, Anglesey, N. Wales.
It is a bright looking fruit, a cross between Pre-
lude and Ham (Ireen, and of good flavour. The
committee would like to see it in March. Some
very good Rhubarb named Tottenham Earl}' came
from Mr. W. Gradwill, Manor Road, Tottenham.
This is a promising variety, bright pink with
the colour running through the stalks, which
are of a nice size. The committee thought it a
good variety, and wished it to be sent to Chiswick
for trial.

Royal Botanic Society. — At a meeting of
this society on Saturday last, a motion by Mr.
Rubinstein as to the admission of the public to the
Gardens on payment was discussed. The motion
on being put to the vote was lost by a large
majority.

United Horticultural Benefit and Provi-
dent Society. — The quarterly meeting of this
society was held at the Caledonian Hotel on Mon-
day evening last. Mr. Joseph Wheeler presided.
Twelve new members were elected and four others
nominated. Two deaths have occurred during
the quarter, one being that of Mr. Charles Collins,
who died suddenly on December 21! at Forest (Sate
Railway Station. The widow being left in dis-
tressed circumstances and in very delicate health,
the committee granted her £10 from the Benevo-
lent Fund in addition to the small amount stand-
ing to her late husband's credit. The other mem-
ber who died was Mr. Arthur Locke, of Woking,
after seventeen weeks on the sick fund. The
amount standing to his credit was paid to the
widow according to rule. The proposed increase
of sick pay was discussed and a requisition signed
by members present for a special meeting to be
called in March for alteration of rule bearing on
the point. The treasurer was instructed to invest
£400 in West Bromwich Three per Cent. Stock.

Notes of the Week.

Anchusa Barrelieri variegata will, I think,
prove to be one of the best plants of this year, very
free growing, in fact the new leaves are already
well developed ; they are ample in size, broadty
margined with creamy white, the flowers of the
most intense blue. From its habit of commenc-
ing to grow in the autumn, it has, as it were, two
distinct seasons, which together form a long one,
— T. Smith.

Cattleya exoniensis.— A good many Orchid
growers of the present day may not possibly re-
member when this extremely beautiful hybrid
was first brought before the public. It is even
now far from plentiful, and I note that its raisers,
the Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, although they
catalogue, do not place a price against it. This
is sufficient indication that there is not a large
stock. It was shown in a cut state at the last
R.H.S. meeting, also at a late meeting in the
past year. I recollect a large plant of it being
sold some twenty years or so back ; this was
afterwards broken up for stock, with what after
results I do not know. In its labellum one can
clearly see its affinity to Ladia crispa, the impress
being left in the beautifully crisped edges — H. A.

Hybrid Dendrobes. — Anyone who was inter-
ested in these Orchids could not, I think, fail to
note the very charming hybrids shown at the Drill
Hall on Tuesday last by Sir Trevor Lawrence. I
refer more particularly to those which have as
their parents D. Findleyanum and D. Ainsworthi,
the latter itself also a hybrid. There were several
of these shown which were quite distinct, but in
all the refinement and soft colouring of D. Findley-
anum was most noticeable. The growth was also

more sturdy in the way of D. nobile, but of paler
colour. This cross has beyond doubt proved to be
a most satisfactory one ; hence it is worth noting
that D. Findleyanum should in the future be used
in conjunction with other hybrids or species. The
hybrids above 'noted are of very free growth. —
H. A.

Phalsenopss F. L. Ames (hybrid). — With
such a wealth of hybrid Cypripediums, Ladias,
and Cattleyas, it is quite a pleasing change to
note this hybrid Moth Orchid. The spike (a cut
one) in question was an exceedingly fine one with
fourteen flowers and buds, about half of which
were expanded, the largest of these being quite
3 inches in diameter. The sepals and petals are
pure white and more pointed than in Phalffinopsis
Aphrodite or P. grandiflora, from both of which
it also differs in the colouring of the labellum,
wherein reddish purple prevails. This fine spike
came from the Tring Park collection, where for
many years these Orchids have been grown most
luxuriantly under the charge of Mr. Hill. It is
named after the late Hon. F. L. Ames, who had a
superb collection at North Easton, Massachusetts,
U.S.A.— H. A.

Olearia Haasti. — "(J. H. A." is quite right in
supposing this to be a good si-aside plant. For
many years I gardened under difficulties in the
storm-Vexed Isle of Thanet. My cottage stood
some 40 yards back from the sea, over which
tin- wind came howling straight from the North
Pole heavily laden with brine, which used to burn
up even tin- Japanese Euonymus. The plants
that best bore the attacks of this fierce enemy
were Olearia Haasti, Rosa rugosa and Escallonia
macrantha. Double Gorse stood will. The only
tree that held its own was the evergreen Oak,
which throve splendidly. The possibilities in the
way "I trees and shrubs were few, but what com-
pensation in the brilliancy of the flowers! Bloom
and colour were splendid, and, above all, the Car-
nations stood out in peerless beauty. — M.

Campanula Raineri. — Surely many of your
readers will agree with me in thinking that what
has been a useful discussion in the way of clear
ing up some doubtful points uf nomenclature is
degenerating into personalities. If we are to
have a discussion on the practice of uprooting
wild plants for trade purposes, by all means let
us have it kept clear from the strictly limited
question at issue. We have already had a con
siderable amount of information regarding C.
Raineri and the plant which passes in some gar
dens as such, and if no one has any more to tell
us about it, another season may help to clear up
any doubtful points which may remain. I do not
want to introduce any names of trade dealers, but
in justice to those abroad I should like to say
that with me the losses among carefully packed
plants from foreign nurseries do not exceed those
among similar plants from English nurseries.
S. Arnott, Carxethorn, Kirhbean.

Verbascum phoeniceum. -Mr. Archer-Hind
in your last number -peak- uf this Mullein
never having ripened seed in his garden for more
than fifty years and of his never having met with
a white variety of it. Here, in my garden, it is,
after Chaixi and phlomoides, the most prolific of
seeding Mulleins, numbers of self-sown plants
coming up yearly in my borders, and amongst
these, which vary very much in colour, are occa-
sionally pure white forms. These latter, I notice,
have only been produced on the stoniest parts of a
rockery. With me V. phoeniceum has never crossed
with other species, although it has been in flower
contiguous to other Mulleins over and over again.
— F. M. Burton, Highfield, Gainsborough.

In all probability before this reaches you

someone will have sent you a note regarding
the remarks of Mr. Archer-Hind in The Gar-
den" of January 12 (p. 31), but a few words may
still be acceptable. On reading Mr. Archer-
Hind's note, I referred to the illustration of
V. phceniceurn on p. 519, and for its size it
is a faithful representation of that species, and
not of V. nigrum album. Your correspondent
"J. E. N." is correct enough in speaking of a

white variety of V. phceniceurn. I have had this
in my garden for several years, my first plants
having been raised from seed purchased as V.
phoeniceum hybridum. The seedlings varied con-
siderably in colour, some pinkish coloured and
the white ones being particularly pleasing. In
form and habit they show no trace of hybrid
origin, and only appear to be seminal varieties.
These plants ripen seed here every year, and sow
themselves so freely as to become rather trouble-
some in the garden. From the exposed position of
my garden I find it difficult to stake this Verbas-
cum in such a way that the sticks are hidden, so
that its appearance is much spoiled. On the
other hand, V. nigrum album stands up well with
very little assistance in the way of staking. — S.
Arnott, Carsethorn by Dumfries, N.B.

Sweet Peas. — I have very much pleasure in
confirming what Mr. Burrell writes regarding the
newer varieties of Sweet Peas. In addition to
those mentioned by him I would strongly advise
those who have the opportunity to try the follow-
ing varieties : Her Majesty, a rich, rosy-pink
variety, strong and robust in growth, one of the
best for cutting ; Dorothy Tennant, a beautiful
shade of lilac-mauve ; Firefly, the best of all
scarlets ; Emily Henderson, the well-known white
of American origin ; Bronze King, coppery bronze,
with white wings, and Blushing Beauty, distinct,
a soft pink shade. Lady Penzance, a beautiful
rose colour, and Lady Beaconsfield, a com-
bination of yellow and rose, are two very recent
introductions which are particularly charming. I
made these notes last year after trying about
thirty sorts. In Scotland it is my experience that
Sweet Peas, if sown during January in pots, can
be had in bloom quite a month earlier than those
sown outside in the usual way. At planting-out
time it is necessary to give the young plants slight
protection until they become inured to the ex-
posure.— Wm. Ci'thbertson*, Springfield, Rothexay.

Dendrobium Phalsenopsis Schrcederi-
anum. — The more we see of this most beautiful
Dendrobe the more are we charmed with it. The
great diversity of colours is one of its peculiar
charms ; these are exceedingly various, it being a
difficult matter to know which to admire most,
those with the deep richly-coloured tints of purple
and purplish rose or the delicately beautiful
lighter tints wherein the ground colour of pure
white is so softly suffused with rose or purple ;
there are also those with quite intermediate tints.
It is most satisfactory to find that this Dendrobo
is such a very fre3-growing plant, enjoying an
abundance of moisture and heat, it is tru.3, when
growing. I recently noted at Messrs. Sander's
establishment an immense importation, many of
which had bulbs of unusual length, whilst nearly
every one was crowned with three Ol- four remnant3
of flower-spikes, sufficient indication of its free
flowering. Not even the good old Dendrobium
nobile can hope to hold its own against this for-
midable rival, which is already fully entitled to
the topmost place. The flowers last for a long
time in the best possible condition, whilst the
spikes, by reason of their length, further extend
the season. I find that a drier atmosphere and a
slightly cooler temperature suit this Dendrobe
when in flower. When in growth my plan is to
suspend the plants from the roof. I note also
that teak baskets seem to suit better than
shallow pans. Abundance of water can be more
safely given to basket plants than to those in pots.
— Orchis.

The weather in West Herts.— The recent
cold spell lasted from December 30 to January 13,
or for fifteen days. During this period the greatest
cold experienced during the daytime occurred on
the 11th inst., when the thermometer in the
screen, 4 feet above Grass, at no time rose above
26°. During the two previous nights a thermo-
meter exposed on the surface of the snow regis-
tered 18' of frost. Both of these readings are the
lowest recorded as yet this winter. Although the
last three days have been comparatively mild, the
ground both at 1 foot and 2 feet deep is at the

52

THE GARDEN.

[January 19, 1895.

present time as cold as at any time during the
frost. At 2 feet deep the temperature is now 4",
and at 1 foot deep 2° above the freezing-point.
The latter reading is 2' colder than the January
average for the previous nine years. On Saturday
night the heaviest fall of snow of the present
winter took place, the average depth on the
ground on Sunday morning being 3$ inches. By
Monday a great deal had melted," so that the
ground was not even completely covered. During
the past week sunshine was recorded on but one
day (Sunday), and even then the sun shone out
for only about an hour. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

Proposed national vegetable exhibition.
— The report of the provisional committee was
presented at a meeting of the general committee,
Mr. Briscoe Ironside in the chair, at the Royal
Aquarium on the 15th inst., about thirty members
being present. The committee stated they had
failed to obtain the consent of the Crystal Palace
directors to hold the show there in September,
and they had approached the Royal Aquarium
directors with that object. The latter agreed
to assist and grant space for a show the second
week in September. Several leading firms had
promised liberal sums to the prize list. Messrs.
Sutton declined on the ground that their promise
of help was conditional on the show being held at
the Palace, and others wished for more information.
The secretary pro tern., Mr. A. Bean, stated that
about £200 would be required to meet the expenses
of such an exhibition, and of this about £40 was
promised. Mr. A. Bean stated he must resign
the office of secretary, as he found he could not
give the time to the work, and he only accepted
it at first with the intention of giving the move
ment a start. Mr. Richard Bean was then pro-
posed, but was obliged to decline the office. Mr.
Molyneux was finally selected, but when the duties
had been defined, Mr. Harrison, Leicester, thought
it would not do to have a secretary so far away
from the work, and he thought it best to give up
the exhibition this year and have a larger next.
Mr. Millard, representing Messrs. Sharpe, Lin-
coln, suggested an adjournment for a month. Mr.
Cannell, Swanley, seconded. It was considered
that by that time the committee would be in a
position to know how the various seed firms had
replied to the circulars sent them.

GARBEN SCREENS.
Screens in London gardens are somewhat desir-
able, and especially so when the backs of one
line of villa residences abut upon those of another,
and where that is so anything like privacy is prac-
tically impossible. But it is possible to provide
screens, and that, too, at no great cost. A wooden
lattice fence can be put up with diamond shaped
openings, and if the light framework does not
touch the ground, and so contract rot from the
wet soil, and it be painted with one or two coats
of green paint, it will last for a considerable time,
or a framework can be made by fixing two up-
rights, one at each end of the proposed line of
screen, and then stretching a few lengths of gal-
vanised wire between the two uprights. Other
designs will no doubt suggest themselves.

Now comes the question what to plant against
such a screen. Last year I saw one constructed
with galvanised wire that had been planted alter-
nately with the common Virginian Creeper and
the blue Clematis Jackmani. When well esta-
blished the shoots of the Clematis, with a little
training, ran through those of the Virginian
Creeper and made an excellent summer screen.
Both subjects being deciduous, there was, of
course, an absence of foliage during the winter,
but there were many leafless shoots notwithstand-
ing, and then the screen was not so much required
in winter as in summer. The Colchic Laurel or
Aucuba japonica will make a good evergreen
covering, the shoots being loosely tied in and dis-
played so as to cover as much space as possible ;
or a vigorous growing common Ivy may be used,
only that large plants in pots would be necessary
to ensure a rapid covering, as young plants of
Ivy are of somewhat slow growth until they got

well established. The fact that I am dealing with
suburban villa gardens in London somewhat nar-
rows the area of selection, as one has to consider
what is likely to succeed in somewhat crowded
districts. R. B.

REGISTERING FROST.
In order to get the correct register of frost at
night, should the thermometer be exposed or
shaded in any way ? I am in the habit of hanging
mine horizontally about 3 feet above the surface
of the ground without any covering whatever. Is
this right? — G J.

%* On a clear calm night the greater the
amount of sky from which the bulb of a minimum
thermometer is shielded and the greater thedistance
theinstrumentisfromtheground the higherwillthe
reading be. The nature of the surface over which
the thermometer is suspended will also influence it.
Therefore, meteorologists, in order to obtain com-
parable results, place their thermometers in a
thermometer screen which, while admitting the
air freely, shuts off entirely direct radiation both
from the sky and ground. Moreover, the screen
is always placed on an open lawn and the ther-
mometers suspended 4 feet above the Grass. This
plan does not of course give the degree of cold to
which vegetation is subjected on a frosty night,
but is the only way to obtain what " G. J." asks
for — the correct register of frost. They also place
an unmounted thermometer on the surface of an
open piece of lawn, with the Grass kept at all sea-
sons quite short. These are the readings I prefer
quoting when writing for gardeners, but they are
not as strictly comparable as those taken in the
screen. But for all practical purposes, " G. J.'s"
method would be almost equally satisfactory for
comparing the lowest night temperatures between
one place and another if all gardeners would agree
to adopt precisely the same plan, and be careful to
set their thermometers right when they found any
spirit had evaporated into the upper part of the
tube.— E. M., Berkhamsted.

Granite dust for the garden. — I notice that
certain advertisers are recommending the use of
granite dust for garden use. Will any of your
readers tell me if they have any experience of it
in this way ? — J. E. I.

*„* In making the rock garden at Chiswick
some years ago we used this largely for mixing
with the soil in which the various alpine plants
were put. It seemed to suit them remarkably
well, as they all did well in it, keeping as it did
the soil porous, and admitting of plenty of water
being given during a dry season. It also, when
sprinkled over gravel that does not bind well,
tends to solidify it. — Ed.

Competition in garden design. — The worst
feature of nearly all our public parks and gardens
is their winding belts of trees and shrubs. The
competitive system of offering a substantial pre-
mium for the most picturesque plan wherever a
new place has to be laid out and planted is a serious
hindrance to reform. All sorts of pretty plans may
be drawn on paper, but what is tolerable on an
ordinary plan becomes impracticable when the
ground comes to be dealt with. The proper
place to design the ornamental features of park or
garden is upon the ground itself, and there alone
should they be determined with all the factors
that influence the work before the eye. If there
must be a plan for the guidance of those to whom
the details of the work are entrusted — and this
much is often necessary — it is easily prepared
from the actual thing as arranged upon the
ground itself. This conventional preparation of
the garden on paper is beginning at the wrong
end. The designer is so apt to be influenced by
the things he thinks pretty as to apply them in-
discriminately, and they become virtual trade-
marks which indicate plainly who was the author
of the work. Next to simplicity as regards i he
arrangement of walks and roads the all-important
point for consideration is the permanent growth
of the trees and shrubs that are to adorn the

place. On the plan we see trees like beehives
and sugar-cones, but the less there is of such
ugly forms in gardens the better. The great
fault, however, is that all go in for the same style
of shrubbery, which begins by planting a medley
of many things for immediate effect and ends in a
confused tangle, in which the gross and common
overpower the choice and pretty, or the pruning
knife is brought to the rescue to perpetuate the
beehives and cones. — A. H.

Obituary.

WILLIAM THOMSON.
William Thomson, of Clovenfords, whose death
on Saturday, January 12, at the age of eighty one
I regret to announce, was, I believe, a native of
Roxburgh, but settled early in life with his
father in Mull. Afterwards he went to Bothwell
Castle, then a noted place under the management
of a well-known gardener, Mr. Turnbull. Mr.
Marnock and Mr. Thomson were, I believe, at
Bothwell together. From there Mr. Thomson went
to Wrotham Park, Middlesex, where he grew fine
fruit and carried out numerous improvements.
From Wrotham he went to Balkeith Palace,
where he remained about sixteen years, when
he left to manage the famous Clovenfords Vine-
yard, which he had founded and built. Mr.
Thomson was a man of rare natural ability
and force of character, kindly in all his personal
relations, and a thoroughly practical and enthu-
siastic gardener. He was a very frequent con-
tributor to the gardening press at one time, and
his vigorous articles on heating by hot water in
the Scottish Gardener about 1.S60 did much to
awaken attention to the subject and improve the
system of heating hothouses and other buildings.
He was the inventor of the treble retort boiler,
one of the best boilers for burning coal yet tried.
He was, indeed, a competent hot-water engineer,
and he taught some of the young men, whom he
turned out, to be as competent as himself in that
line. Thomson's book on the Vine has gone
through several editions. He was a well-known
figure at all horticultural exhibitions and meetings
in Scotland up to the last, and will be greatly
missed. He trained and sent out from Balkeith
and Clovenfords many young men as head gar-
deners to important places in different parts of
the kingdom, and was presented with a hand-
some testimonial by a number of his earliest
pupils some few years back. W.

Mr. J. Simpson. — The Society Nationale
d'Acclimatation de France has, we understand,
conferred its medal of the first class (Medaille de
Premiere Classe) upon Mr. J. Simpson, Wortley
Hall Gardens, for his book entitled " The Wild
Rabbit in a New Aspect," published not long
since by Messrs. Blackwood and Sons, Edinburgh.

The late Mr. Chas. Collins. — A meeting of
horticultural pressmen was held recently at
the Horticultural Club, Hotel Windsor, to take
steps to raise a fund for the widow and children
of the late Mr. Chas. Collins, whose sudden death
was recorded in The Garden. Subscriptions may
be sent to any of the horticultural papers.

Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution.

— The following are the names of the successful
candidates, with the number of votes for each, at
the election held on Thursday, January 17 : James
Clarren, 2824 ; Thomas Thomas, 2735 ; Emma A.
Ivery, 2500 ; Henry Fielder, 2261 ; Clara E.
Brown, 21SS ; Robert Petitt, 2024.

Names of plants. — John Bennett.' — Orchids
correctly named, but not the best forms.

The Wild Garden: or, the Naturalisation and Natural
Grouping <" Hardy Exotic Plants, w-th a chapter nai the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth aZ>tton, uith uood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged, remy
bvo, linen cloth. P.rice 12s. ; well bound in half morocco, 18a.
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEN.

53

No. 1210. SATURDAY, January 26, 18! 5. Vol. XLVII.

" This la an Ait
Which docs mei d Nature : chanpe it rather ;
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

lut

Orchids.

phaljenopsids in winter.

The blooms of the Moth Orchid are always
pleasing, more especially at the present time,
when flowers are exceedingly scarce. These
plants do not receive so much attention as they
deserve, no doubt in consequence of the large
amount of heat and moisture required to grow
them to perfection. Occasionally one may
notice a few kinds of Phalienopsis doing well
under quite cool treatment, but I question if
they continue in good health for many years.
From personal experience I have known these
plants thrive admirably during the summer
months when given comparatively cool treat-
ment, but in the winter the lower temperature
and dryness of the atmosphere generally do
much damage to the beautiful leaves and roots,
and when so affected the plants take a long time
to recover. Phala?nopsids succeed best when
grown in a house set apart for their cultivation,
as in a state of Nature they grow where the
atmosphere is nearly always saturated with
moisture, and consequently they require similar
conditions as far as possible in our houses.
These plants mostly commence to make fresh
growths in the early spring and continue grow-
ing until the autumn, when the resting period
begins. During this season, however, they must
be kept nice and moist, the Sphagnum being
constantly kept in a fresh growing state. Care
sh< uld be taken not to pour the water directly
upon the leaves, only applying it to the Moss,
and when fully open the flowers should not be
sprinkled with water from the syringe, for this
causes them to become spotted and soon decay.
During the present season the thermometer
should not fall much lower than about 70° in
the daytime and 5° less in the night, but when
the plauts commence growing in March or April
the temperature she uld gradually rise to between
75° and 80°, and during the night never fall
below 70°. Much benefit may be derived by
occasionally sprinkling upon the floor whilst
the plants are in growth some soot and salt and
also a little manure at intervals. Phalsenopsids
succeed well in either baskets, cylinders, or
upon blocks, and require no other materials
around their roots than good living Sphagnum
Moss. These should be suspended from the
roof or placed in a light position, and during
the summer the plants must be protected from
the sun's rays. One of the most beautiful
kinds now in bloom is

P. SciiiLLEMANA, a charming species even
when not in bloom, for its lovely variegated foli-
age contrasts well with the bright shining leaves
of other sorts. This plant has been known to
European gardens since lSliO, having been intro-
duced from the Philippine Islands the year pre-
viously. The leaves are large, deep green, and
mottled with silvery grey, and it produces a long
branching peduncle of many flowers. These indi-
vidually are 3 inches and sometimes more in dia-
meter, white, suffused with delicate rosy purple,
and spotted minutely with red at the base of
the lip. Amongst others in bloom at the present
time is

P. Aihrodite, or, as it is better known in our
gardens, P. amabilis, a grand variety, with deep
green foliage above and purplish beneath. This
also has fine large flowers, pure white, the side

lobes beautifully pencilled with purple and stained
with yellow in the throat.

P. leucorrhoda is also a beautiful kind and a
supposed natural hybrid between the two pre-
viously mentioned species. Sometimes the foliage
is quite green, and often slightly marbled as in
P. Schilleriana ; the sepals and petals are white,
more or less suffused with rose, and the lip is inter-
mediate in Ehape between those of the two supposed
parents.

P. INTERMEDIA Portei, also noticed in flower, is
a rare and beautiful variety of the typical form. It
has medium-sized, bright green leaves and flowers
of exquisite form and colour ; the sepals and petals
are white, flushed with purple at the base ; whilst
the front lobe of the lip is a deep violet-purple,
the side lobes light yellow, dotted with red.

P. F. L. Ames is also a very rare and distinct
kind, being one of a few garden hybrids in this
eenus. It was raised by Mr. Seden in Messrs.
Veitch's nursery between P. amabilis and P. in-
termedia. In this kind the sepals and petals are
narrower, white, shaded with rose ; the front lobe
reddish purple with a yellow disc.

These by themselves make a very beautiful
display during the dull months of winter, and
well repay for any little extra attention be-
stowed upon them. Wm. Hugh Gower.

Watering Calantb.es.— It is surprising what
a small quantity of water the Veitchi and vestita
varieties of Calanthe require while developing
their flower spikes. Since the middle of Novem-
ber my plants have been watered only once.
Many of the pseudo-bulbs are carrying spikes
from :i feet to 4 feet long— a proof that the treat-
ment they receive is satisfactory. It may not be
generally known that an excess of moisture at the
root changes the colour of the flowers from that
rich rose so pleasing to quite a pale pink. When
these Calanthes are grown in a compost light in
texture they may require, perhaps, more water,
but I do not think soil of this character is the
right kind for this useful winter-flowering Orchid.
I employ a compost almost, entirely composed of
strong loam in a half-decayed condition, with
sufficient charcoal to keep it porous and cow ma-
nure to sustain the growth. — E. M.

Cymbidium Traceyamim. — It is about four
years since this beautiful plant first appeared with
Mr. Tracey, of Twickenham, amongst an impor-
tation of C. Lowianum. I recently noticed in
the collection of Mr. J. Prewett, of Hammersmith,
a nice piece carrying a spike of several flowers.
I suppose this has also been imported with a con-
signment of C. Lowianum, from which it is not
distinguishable when not in bloom. It is closely
allied to C. giganteum and C. grandiflorum, and
it is to be hoped that some of our collectors may
be fortunate enough to come across it in flower in
its native country and send it home in quantity,
for it is certainly a grand addition to this fine
family of Orchids. — G.

Lselia harpophylla. — This is a handsome
Orchid when well grown, and one which, on
account of the bright and lively colour of its
flowers, should be represented in all collections.
It is somewhat early for this species to be in
bloom, but I have noticed that several Orchids are
flowering earlier than usual this season, perhaps
owing to the very mild autumn and early winter.
The flowers are produced from the top of the
stem-like pseudo-bulbs in racemes of five or six.
Each flower measures 3 inches across and is bright
orange-red, with the exception of a whitish mar-
gin to the lip. This species is easily grown and
very free-flowering ; it is, moreover, a very accom-
modating plant as to temperature. It will thrive
with the Odontoglossums, but the best position is
in the intermediate or Cattleya house. Newly-im-
ported plants certainly grow away with greater
freedom in this warmer temperature. These when
received should be carefully cleaned and suspended
head downwards from the roof. When the pseudo-
bulbs plump up and show signs of breaking into
growth the plants should be placed in pots nearly

filled with clean crocks. A small stako must be
placed in the centre of each, and oneof the strongest
pseudo-bulbs tied firmly to this ; the others should
be looped up neatly, using matting twisted up
tightly. The plants will then look much tidier
than if left loose, and as they cannot rock will
also thrive better. A very thin surfacing of com-
post will suffice for the first year, and water must
be sparingly applied until the roots have obtained
a good hold of this. The syringe must, however,
be freely plied between the pots, and on bright
mornings in summer the plants may be lightly
dewed overhead with tepid water. When the
growth is complete the plants may with advan-
tage be removed to a light sunny position in a
cooler house and kept rather drier at the roots
until the flower-sheaths begin to show, when they
may be returned to the Cattleya house. — H. R.

PROPAGATING ORCHIDS.

Orchids of many popular and beautiful kinds
are now so cheap and easily obtained that, from
an economic point of view, artificial propagation
of these is not worth the trouble involved.
Still, sometimes one has a variety that it is de-
sirable to propagate, and in such cases, slow
though the process may be, the time and trouble
will be well spent in the endeavour to increase
the stock. Amateurs and others unacquainted
with the culture of Orchids ought to gain some
experience in growing them before attempting
their propagation. The reason of this is ob-
vious. Many plants that to the casual observer
seem healthy and strong may, to a practical eye,
be found wanting in some particular. The roots
may not have a firm hold of their adopted home
in pot or basket, or the leading growths or
pseudo-bulbs may not be so robust as those pre-
ceding them. A careful cultivator will note these
and other signs before commencing any opera-
tion that may possibly have a further weakening
effect upon the plants. Given strong healthy
plants, however, and skilful treatment, these
experiments are very interesting. Some Orchids
are quite easily propagated, as, for instance, the
group of Dendrobes with long stem-like or
terete pseudo-bulbs, as D. nobile or D. Pierardi.
These frequently produce young plants upon the
end of the pseudo-bulbs, or they may be induced
to do so by cutting these off after flowering and
laying them in boxes or pans of Sphagnum
Moss kept constantly moist. If this is done in
spring nice little plants are produced by autumn,
and half-a-dozen of these placed in a 6-inch pot
will soon make shapely specimens. Strong
pseudo-bulbs of Calanthe Veitchi or C. vestita
may be cut in four vertically, and with careful
treatment each rpiarter will produce a new
growth. This must not, however, be under-
taken unless a brisk bottom heat is at command,
on which to start the pseudo-bulbs after being
placed in small pots of Moss. When new growth
is well advanced and the young roots can be
seen, the pieces may be pulled gently apart and
potted separately, to be afterwards grown on in
the usual way. Thunias are easily propagated by
cutting theold pseudo-bulbs into lengths of about
0 inches, and inserting five or six of these around
the edge of a 44-inch pot. The best time to do
this is as soon as the growths have attained
their full size. A mixture of peat, chopped
Sphagnum, and finely broken crocks is the
best compost, and the pots should be well
drained and kept regularly moist in a warm
corner of the East India house. If carefully
treated each cutting will break into growth at
the base, and they should be left in the pots
until these are full of roots. If the growth
by this time is not quite finished, the plants
may be carefully repotted into 6-inch pots, but
if this is complete, they must be gradually

54

THE GARDEN.

[Jam-ary 26, 1895.

dried off and left until the following spring.
Pseudo-bulbous Orchids of the Cattleya and
Odontoglossum types do not in most cases lend
themselves so readily to propagation. The
mode usually practised is to cut through the
rhizome with a view to obtaining back breaks,
the lead being then removed aud set growing
on its own account. This plan does not, of
course, allow of so rapid an increase as those
described above. In the case >• iCattleyas it is
safer to notch a little more than half way
through the rhizome at first, then when roots
are emitted from the portions to be divided,
cut right through, leaving them undisturbed
until the pseudo-bulbs are formed, and dividing
at next potting time. With some Orchids,
however, this caution is unnecessary, Lycaste
Skinneri, Oncidium flexuosum, Burlingtonia
decora, and many others being easily propa-
gated simply by dividing the plants as de-
scribed and watering carefully until new roots
are formed. Cypripediums, too, are easily in-
creased by division of the plants. Each growth
can be separately potted if desired, and will
make a plant, although it is generally advisable
to leave three or four together. Vandas and
other Orchids of a similar habit frequently pro ■
duce side breaks that may be taken off with a
few roots attached and placed in small pots of
Sphagnum and charcoal. These soon grow into
neat little specimens in a suitable temperature,
and no harm can accrue to the parent plants
by their removal. It must not be forgotten
that in all these operations a slight check is
given to the plants, and this must be counter-
acted by extra attention until they recover.
A kind of convalescent treatment is necessary,
a little more heat than usual and a rather closer
atmosphere being very recuperative.

H. R.

Cypripedium Roezli. — I recently saw an
exceedingly finely coloured variety of this old
favourite. It belongs to the Selenipedium sec-
tion and much resembles C. longifolium, of which
species it is considered a variety by some authori-
ties. The flowers are similar in shape to those of
C. longifolium, having a large greenish lip and
long pointed petals, in C. Roezli, however, they
are of a much deeper colour than is ever seen
in C. longifolium. This is almost a perpetual
blooming species, with a long, erect spike which
seldom has more than one flower open at a time.
It was discovered about fifty years ago on the
Andes of Ecuador, growing at about 4000 feet
elevation, and first flowered in this country in 1874
with Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea.— W.

by Mr. Hardy, is the result of crossing C. bellatulum
with C. snperbiens. The flower is of pleasing appear-
ance, with slightly drooping petals, and borne upon an
erect stem from 9 inches to a foot in height. AH the
segments are pure white and heavily spotted, with the
exception of the lip, which is shaded with brownish
rose in front. — W.

Dendrobium nobile elegans— Under this
name I have received some blooms from Mr. Cypher,
the Queen's Road Nurseries, Cheltenham. In this
form the flowers are of extra substance and also of
fine size, measuring nearly 4 inches across the petals.
The sepals and petals are broad, heavily tipped with
rich rosy purple, lighter at the base ; the lip is pale
yellow, and has an exceedingly deep maToon blotch at
the base, the tip being rosy purple. — W.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Masdevallia Courtauldiana. — This was
raised by Mr. Norman Cookson, of Wylam-on-Tyne,
between M. rosea and M. Shuttleworthi. The scape
is slender, rather longer than the leaves, and one-
flowered, the flowers being of a uniform shade of light
rose. It is now close on six years since this fine
variety first bloomed. — W.

Cymbidium "Winnianum.— Only two hybrids
have appeared in this genus, C. Winnianum being one.
It is certainly very distinct and a fine acquisition,
being a cross between C. giyanteum and C. eburneum.
The plant appears to be very vigorous, and the fine
ivory white blossoms, which are spotted with crimson
at the base and borne on long arching spikes, last a
considerable time in perfection. — W.

Epidendrum polybulbon— This is a native of
Mexico, and, I believe, has also been found in the
West Indies. It has been known for a considerable
number of years, but was not seen in a living state in
this country for a long time after its discovery. The
blooms are each about an inch or more across ; the
sepals and petals, nearly equal in Bize, are yellowish
greim ; the lip pure white, striped in the middle with
yellow. — G.

Cypripedium Mrs. F. Hardy.— This fine
hybrid, recently shown at the Drill Hall, Westminster,

Trees and Shrubs.

NATIVE EVERGREENS.

When after a very hard winter we see the ever-
green trees of the garden in mourning, and
perhaps many of them dead, as happens to
Laurels, Laurustinuses, and often even the Bay,
it is a good time to consider the hardiness and
other good qualities of our British evergreens
and the many forms raised from them. If we
are fortunate enough to have old Yew trees
near us, we do not find that a hard winter
makes much difference to them, even winters
that brown the evergreen Oak. We have col-
lected within the past 200 years evergreen trees
from all parts of the northern world, but it is
doubtful if any of them are better than the
common Yew, which when old is often pic-
turesque, and which lives for over a thousand
years. Of no other evergreen introduced to
Britain can anything of the kind be said. Of
this great tree we have many varieties, but none
of them quite so good as the wild kind when old.
In the garden little thought is given to it and
it is crowded among shrubs, or in graveyards
where the roots are cut by digging, so that one
seldom sees it in its true character when old,
which is very beautiful. The Golden Yew is a
form of it, and there are other slight variegations
which are interesting from a merely garden
point of view. The Irish Yew is a well-known
form, and its prim shape is too much seen.
Other seedling variations of the common Yew
are better than that kind.

After the ever-precious Yew, the best of our
evergreen shrubs is the common Holly, which
in no country attains the beauty it does in our
own ; certainly no evergreen brought over the
sea is so valuable not only in its native form,
often attaining 40 feet even on the hills, but
in the almost innumerable varieties raised from
it, many of them being the best of all variegated
shrubs in their silver and gold variegation ; in
fruit, too, it is the most beautiful of all ever-
greens. Not merely as a garden tree is it
precious, but as a most delightful shelter around
fields for stock in paddocks and places which
want shelter. A big wreath of old Holly un-
dipped on the cold sides of fields is the best
protection, and a grove of Holly north of any
place we want to shelter is the best thing we
can plant ; the only thing we have to fear being
the rabbits, which when numerous make Holly
difficult to establish by barking the newly-
planted trees, and in hard winters even barking
and killing many old trees. As to the garden,
we may make beautiful evergreen gardens of
the forms of Holly alone.

Notwithstanding the many conifers brought
from other countries within the past few genera-
tions, as regards beauty, it is very doubtful if
more than one or two equal our native Fir,
which when old is so fine in its stem and head.

Few things in our country are more picturesque
than old groups and groves of the Scotch Fir ;
few indeed of the conifers we treasure from
other countries will ever give us anything so
good as the ruddy stems and frost-proof crests
of this northern and British tree.

Again, the best of evergreen climbers are our
native Ivy, and the many beautiful forms allied
to it or that have arisen from it. This in our
woods arranges its own beautiful effects, but in
gardens it might be made more delightful use
of, and no other evergreen climber comes near
it in value. The form most commonly used in
Britain— the Irish Ivy — is by no means so
graceful as some others, and there are a great
number of delightful forms varying in form and
even in colour. These for edging banks, screens,
covering old trees, and forming summer-houses
might be made far more use of. In many
northern countries our Ivy will not live in the
open air, and it is so happy with us, that we
rarely take advantage of our privileges in such
a possession in making both shelters, wreaths,
and screens, and many beautiful things of it
that would need little care. It requires care in
trimming on our houses and on cottage roofs ;
but there are many pretty things to make of it
away from buildings, and among them Ivy-clad
and Ivy-covered wigwams, summer-houses, and
covered ways, the Ivy supported on a strong
open frame-work, and trained over sticks till
it took hold.

The Box tree, which is a true native in certain
dry hills in the south of England, is so crowded
in gardens, that one seldom sees its beauty as
one may on the hills full in the sun, and the
branches take a charming plumy toss. To
wander among natural groves of Box is a great
pleasure, aud there is no reason why we should
not plant it in groups or colonies by itself full
in the sun, so that one might enjoy the same
charm of form that it shows wild on the hills.
In some heavy soils in England it does not
grow, but there are many of our soils that suit it
perfectly. A bower of one of the handsome-
leaved Ivies in a grove of Box would be charm-
ing, and its charms would last long.

Also among our native evergreens is the
common Juniper, a scrubby thing in some
places, but on heaths in Surrey, and favoured
heaths elsewhere, often growing over 20 feet
high and very picturesque, especially where
mingled with Holly. There is an upright form,
called the Irish Juniper, in gardens.

The Arbutus, which borders nearly all the
streams in Greece, ventures into Ireland, and is
abundant there in certain parts in the south.
This beautiful shrub, though tender in midland
counties, is very precious for the seashore and
mild districts not only as an evergreen, but
for the beauty of its flowers and fruit. Still, it
is the one British evergreen which has to be
planted with discrimination in places where the
winters are severe in inland districts.

Osmanthus ilicifolius. — Apart from its
value as an evergreen shrub so well set forth on
p. 17, this Osmanthus is decidedly pretty when
in bloom, or rather when flowering as profusely as
it did during the autumn of 1893, for the blooms
are small, and consequently when produced in
limited numbers they are not particularly attrac-
tive. The flowers are pure white and produced
in clusters from the axils of the leaves. These
clusters of blossoms extend for some distance
along the shoots, so that when every twig is
crowded with them they are very noticeable.
Like those of a nearly allied plant, Olea fragrans,
the blossoms of the Osmanthus are very pleasantly
scented ; indeed, in many features they bear a
great resemblance to this Olea, but are much
whiter. I never before saw the different kind6 of

Januaby 26, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

55

Osmanthus flower with anything like the freedom
that they did in 1893, the result no doubt of the
almost tropical summer. Last year, on the other
hand, very few flowers made their appearance.
Besides the forms mentioned in the above quoted
article there is the variety myrtifolius, a plain
dark green, unarmoured leaf, which undoubtedly
originated as a sport from the typical kind, as it
will occasionally show signs of reversion. This
variety forms a neat, freely-branched little bush,
not unlike a Phillyrea. A second form, rotundi-
folius, has rounder leaves, but the plant does not
seem to grow so well as myrtifolius. Notwith-
standing the great resemblance that some forms
of this Osmanthus bear to a Holly, there is
really no affinity between them, the genus
Ofmanthus being allied to the Olives. Such be-
ing the case, they were atone time often grafted
on the Privet, and in this way were rarely satis-
factory, but since the crusade has set in against
useless grafting it has not been so much followed.
There is really no reason why grafting should be
employed for the propagation of the Osmanthus,
as cuttings strike root readily enough. The best
lime to take them is at the end of the summer,
when if kept in a frame they will be well rooted
by the spring. — T.

EURYA LATIFOLIA VARIEGATA.

The shrub so long known in gardens under the
above name is, according to Sir Joseph Hooker,
not a Eurya at all, its correct name being Cleyera
Fortunei. Though cultivated in this country for
upwards of thirty years, it has not flowered till
recently, and its blooms were almost unknown
till flowering examples of it were exhibited at the
Chiswick conference on trees and shrubs held last
autumn. The specimens shown were contributed
by Lieut. -Colonel Tremayne, Carclew, Cornwall.
This afforded the first opportunity of examining
the flowers, with the result that this well-known
shrub has been proved to boa Cleyera, to which
genus it was always considered to be nearly re-
lated. Of course, in the favoured western climate
it is hardy, but in many districts of England it
requires to be treated as a greenhouse shrub, and
even then it is a very useful plant in many ways.
In the matter of foliage this Eurya bears a cer-
tain amount of resemblance to a Camellia, but the
leaves are longer in proportion to their length and
not quite so thick in texture as those of a Camellia.
The variegation of the Eurya does not consist of
any regular markings, for the leaves when young
present an almost indescribable blending of white,
yellow, pink and green, but when mature a good
deal of the pink disappears. Good examples ate
nearly as brightly coloured as some of the
Crotons, and besides its ornamental foliage, the
merits of this Eurya are still further enhanced by
the fact that, being almost hardy, it may bo kept
in any structure from which frost is just excluded.
In draughty corridors and such like places it may
bj employed without injury, the leathery texture
of its leaves readily admitting of the removal
of the dust which in such places quickly ac-
cumulates on the foliage. It is not at all a
difficult plant to strike from cuttings, though at
the same time it does not root so readily as many-
other subjects. The best cuttings are furnished
by plants that have been wintered under glass,
as they root more readily than the shoots taken
from bushes in the open ground. The weaker side
shoots should be chosen for the purpose rather
than the stouter terminal ones. They should be
taken when in a half-ripened condition, which will
be as a rule about midsummer or thereabouts. A
convenient length is about 4 inches, and if cut off
to a joint and the bottom leaf removed, they may
be dibbled firmly into well-drained pots of sandy
Eoil. Then if kept in a close propagating case in
a temperature rather higher than that in which
they have grown, these cuttings will strike in two
or three months, when they must be potted off.
One caution to particularly observe is that the
cuttings are not allowed to flag previous to in-
sertion, as if this is done, many fail to recover.

It was an old, but now pretty well exploded, idea
that cuttings of all kinds should be left some
little time before insertion in order that the super-
abundant sap might drain away, and thus lessen
the chances of decay ; but it is now pretty well
conceded that, except in the case of succulents and
a few other things, the quicker the cuttings can
be put in the better for their chances of success.
v T.

Sciadopitys verticillata.— My experience
with the Umbrella Pine of Japan is anything but
pleasant. Fifteen years since two plants were
purchased, each costing a guinea ; they were care-
fully planted in the natural soil, which was in-
clined to be heavy, excepting that a quantity of
old garden soil was added when the garden was
re-formed. No progress was made by the trees
for several years, when they were removed to an-
other part of the garden and planted wholly in
peat, decayed leaves, and sand. An improve-
ment was soon manifest in the growth and colour
of the leaves, but it proved only short-lived ; the
plants very quickly changed to the objectionable
hue they had assumed prior to removal. In spite
of repeated watering when the weather was dry
the plants got gradually less until they died five
years since. With the exception of the first and
second year after planting, the second time the
plants never made any progress at all. — E. M.

The Tulip Tree in Yorkshire.— Referring
to the note of your correspondent at p. 31,
January 12, I can answer in the affirmative as
regards Liriodendron tulipiferum succeeding, as
far as growth goes, in the W.R., Vorks. About ten
years since I planted a small tree at Holden
Clough, and it is now a shapely tree of 12 feet to
15 feet high. Of course, I do not expect it to
bloom, as in much more favoured climates than
that of West Yorks it does not flower until it is
a full grown, one may say aged, tree, but its
foliage is so distinct and peculiar, that without
bloom it is well worth growing. It is no doubt
difficult to establish, but once thoroughly esta-
blished it is of fairly rapid growth. Its enemy is
not winter cold, but the early frosts of autumn
which damage the young growths. Not so much,
however, as in the case of the other tree men-
tioned by your correspondent, Catalpa syringi-
folia ; this can do no good, that is, cannot flower,
from the above cause — want of ripening of the
wood in autumn. I have had seedling plants of
Paulownia imperialis a yard high which have
been in their sappy condition killed off, like
Asparagus shoots, by the early frosts. Neither
very early nor very late growths answer in the
W. Yorks climate, where, by the way, Polygala
Chamaebuxus, from Geneva, has been flowering
for the first time during the recent severe weather.
— R Milne-Redhead, Holden Clough, Clith ro\ .

THE DEODAR CEDAR.

If there is a conifer that in the last fifty years has
been planted more largely than any other it is
probably the Deodar Cedar, and planters have
not, as a rule, had reason to regret the selection.
This has not been the case with many others.
Some, as Sequoias and Araucarias, have, as they
grew into trees of considerable size, proved totally
unsuitable for the sites chosen for them ; others,
as Cryptomeria japoniea, go on satisfactorily until
the leader gets into the wind line, when they are
invariably crippled, whilst yet others are affected
by certain soils, growth is ragged, and the tree,
as ja specimen, unsightly. I hardly think that
any of these objections would apply to the
Deodar. There are very few positions for which
it is not suitable ; its leader is not, as a rule, in-
jured, and it is also not very particular in the
matter of soil— at least it is to be found doing well
under very diverse circumstances. One thing,
however, I have specially noted, that difference
of soil will materially alter the manner of growth.
Sometimes the tree runs up quickly to a vary con-
siderable height with but a slender stem, whilst
in other cases the trunk develops quickly at the

expense of rapidity of upright growth. It is too
early to express a decided opinion as to the
dimensions likely to be attained by this Cedar.
It was introduced so lately as 1822, and conse-
quently no comparison can as yet be drawn
between it and the Lebanon Cedar, which has
been in the country over 200 years, but I fancy
on some soils the latter tree will have to give way
to the Himalayan Cedar. I say on some soils,
because doubtless to the difference in this respect
is to be attributed the corresponding difference
in the habit of growth of the Lebanon Cedar in
two separate places, perhaps not so widely apart,
to be noted in the nature of branch development
and increased density of foliage. In those places
where the latter characteristics are answerable
for the early mutilation of the tree by gales and
heavy snowstorms there should be no hesitation
in substituting the Deodar when any Cedars are
planted ; its finer growth and more drooping habit
are safeguards against the breaking down of
branches. An inspection of some score or more
trees that were planted here between 1850 and
I860 in different parts of the pleasure grounds
shows that in every case they are doing remark-
ably well, varying a little in their manner of
growth, but all clean, healthy, well-balanced
trees. On small lawns and in any positions where
it is not advisable a tree should go higher than
some 30 feet, the glaucous variety of the Atlas
Cedar, a beautiful tree that makes a small, but
very shapely specimen, may be substituted for
the Deodar. E. Bcrrell.
Claremont.

THE ENGLISH YEW.
It is a pity there are not authentic records as to
the age of some of the remarkable specimens of
English Yew that are to be found occasionally in
our churchyards or in some of the " coombes" of
our down land. We may hazard a guess, and pos-
sibly think ourselves near the mark as to the age
of the churchyard patriarchs, associating their
planting with the 'earliest record of a church in
the same spot, but it has often seemed feasible
that the largest Yews reach further back than
such records, and that they were contemporary in
their infancy with still earlier buildings of which
no trace remains. This inference is forced on one
when there is an opportunity of measuring trees
of whose age we can speak positively, contrasting
the progress they have made in the time with the
enormous girth of some of the largest known spe-
cimens, and also comparing the young lews with
other species of trees. In the planting operations
associated with the laying out of the grounds here
Yews were somewhat freely used, and are to be
found in circular groups, in cross avenues and as
isolated specimens. This planting was carried
out in 1770, giving them an age of 125 years, and
a measurement of a few trees taken here and there
shows them to run from 25 feet to 30 feet in
height, with a diameter of bole from 24 inches to
3d inches (the latter exceptional) at 3 feet from
the ground. Naturally, where somewhat crowded
either by their fellows or by other trees they are
lacking in symmetry, but isolated specimens are
very shapely trees, throwing their branches far
and wide. As against the measurements of the
Yews I should like to chronicle one or two made
of other trees that were planted at the same time
to show the difference in the rate of growth.
Many of the Lebanon Cedars are 70 feet high and
girth from 15 feet to 18 feet, verifying the con-
tention of the late Mr. Marnock that given a
congenial soil, this tree was of fairly rapid instead
of slow growth. The majority of the Silver Firs
would girth about the same as the Cedars, but
are nearly 100 feet high. These are going to the
bad rapidly, forming in their decay a striking
contrast to the luxuriance of the Yews of similar
ase The knowledge gained as to the \ ew s rate
of arowth furnishes an ample reason as to why
large specimens are so seldom found in private
pleasure grounds. There are few of these that
have remained unaltered for centuries.

Claremont, E, Bpbreli..

56

THE GARDEN.

[January 26, 1895

Chrysanthemums.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR MARKET.

WiTn flowers, as with other things, time and
fashion work wondrous changes. Many things
which held a foremost position with the older
generation of gardeners are now relegated to
i bscurity. This cannot, however, be said of
the Chrysanthemum, for, looking back through
a period of thirty years, one sees it advancing
slowly at first, and then by leaps and bounds
tn its present high state of popularity. It is
doubtful whether the Chrysanthemum would
have become so popular and been so largely
grown for market had raisers of new kinds
never had the Japanese varieties to deal with.
These are so showy, generally so free of growth,
such a large amount of bloom can be taken from
a comparatively small area, while they lend them-
selves much better to the rough-and-ready cul-
tural methods of the grower for profit than do
the incurved kinds. By their means it has
been easy to produce that enormous amount of
bloom in an inexpensive manner that fills up
the London and large provincial markets for
several months in the year. The Chrysanthe-
mum season may be said to commence about
the middle of September and last almost until
February. Instead of Chrysanthemums being,
as was the case but a few years ago, very ex-
pensive at the festive season, they can be bought
almost as cheaply then as at other times of the
year. Not much more than ten years ago a
house 100 feet long filled with Chrysanthemum
bloom in midwinter was thought something out
of the common, but to such an extent are the
late-flowering varieties cultivated now, that one
may find in our London market gardens as much
bloom at Christmas as would have been pro-
duced twenty years ago in all the market gar-
dens about the metropolis. It is not uncommon
(hiring the season to see a whole vanload of
Chrysanthemums sent into Covent Garden by
one market grower. The

Outdoor Culture

of this flower has of late been much deve-
loped. Not only are the early-blooming kinds
very largely grown, but the later blooming
hardy varieties are produced in much greater
quantities than formerly. These are, of course,
much influenced by the weather that may happen
to prevail at their blooming period. Sometimes
a hard frost will kill or much injure them, but
in a general way they now form an important
feature in the London flower markets in late
autumn. The past season was unusually
favourable to this flower. The rainy summer
favoured a luxuriant growth, and there was not
frost enough later on to check flower expan-
sion. It has thus been possible to form a cor-
rect idea of the extent to which these hardy
Chrysanthemums are grown for profit in the
neighbourhood of London. It would almost
seem that as much ground is being given
to them as to the Wallflower, for this
year the blooms have been brought to the
London markets in the same manner as is
practised with that fragrant flower. Waco-on-
loads of vegetables topped up with these hardy
Chrysanthemums have been frequently seen this
season in Covent Garden. Probably no Chry-
santhemum has been so largely grown as
Madame Desgrange, but there are siens that its
reign of popularity is on the wane. Complaints
are made of its want of purity. Florists can-
not employ it where flowers absolutely pure
are^ indispensable, and they say "it does not
go " with white flowers generally. When grown

in pots and accorded high culture, the flowers
come pure enough, but this method of culture
does not pay much, and planted in the open
it is much influenced by the weather, the
yellow tinge being more or less pronounced,
according as the season has been favourable or
otherwise to the growth of the plants and ex-
pansion of the blooms. Sometimes the foliage
is affected by a kind of disease which partially
cripples the plants and spoils the purity of the
flowers. The newer Lady Fitzwygram seems
likely to rival Madame Desgrange, but whether
it will prove sufficiently reliable in the open air
and will suit market requirements can only be
determined by two or three seasons' trial. If
raisers can give us a variety as good as
Elaine of a robust habit and early enough
to bloom in the open air in September,
they will earn the thanks of growers for profit.
Ryecroft Glory and Comtesse de Careil are
certainly very useful additions to this section
of a large family, and are sure to be largely
grown. Except when the plants are to be sold,
I feel sure that it will not pay to grow any of
these early blooming kinds in pots. The little
increase in quality will not compensate for the
extra expense involved by pot culture. The cul-
ture must besimple,shelteringthe stools in frames
in winter, dividing and planting out in good
ground towards April. Some who grow Mine,
Desgrange largely protect with canvas duringthe
flowering time, and no doubt this pays taking
one year with another. In some years a sharp
frost occurs in the latter portion of September,
and the man is happy who has theD half an
acre of this Chrysanthemum and its varieties.
When Dahlias and other tender flowers are
cut off and unprotected Chrysanthemums are
injured, the price of blooms in good condition
naturally goes up. It is hardly correct to call
Elaine, W. Holmes, and Source d'Or midseason
varieties. They are really second earlies,
coming in several weeks before the Chrysan-
themum season fairly conimeuces. These three
kinds probably pay as well as the latest ones,
and certainly much better than those that are
marketed from the beginning of November up
to Christmas. Good blooms of Elaine and W.
Holmes will often make more in mid-October
than those that are retarded up to the close of
the year. Fairly good flowers of the latter
realised 4d. each last season, and a Chry-
santhemum must be very good indeed to
make so much at the festive time. This
comparatively high figure is only to be ob-
tained from the earliest blooms, and can hardly
be secured from lifted plants. The great bulk
of these second early varieties brought into
Covent Garden is very poor, being produced by
plants grown on the rough-and-ready method.
If grown in pots they can be put under cover
without sustaining a check, can get the full sun
and being well fed will come on rapidly. These
three varieties can be had all through Novem-
ber by means of late stopping and keeping them
in the open as long as possible. I do not think
there is much advantage in treating Elaine in
this way, as we have plenty of good whites that
can easily be had early in November, but the
mixture of crimson and gold in W. Holmes
renders it such a favourite, that one is justified
in prolonging its season as long as possible.
Among later varieties that bloom from the
beginning of November till the middle of
January, Avalanche, Sunflower, Gloire du
Rocher, Stanstead White, Edwin Molyneux
and Felix Cassagneau are among the best and
are all easily grown. Cullingfordi is still one
of the best high-coloured kinds, but it does not
make any great quantity of fibrous roots when
planted out and is apt to suffer when lifted.

Grown in pots it is very satisfactory and will
yield as much bloom from a given space as almost
any Chrysanthemum. Edwin Molyneux is, how-
ever, much stronger in growth and the flowers
have none of the much-admired old gold tint in
them. It is not necessary to grow both, and
for November and the early part of December
I should prefer E. Molyneux. A. Dufour is
a good kind for cutting, bearing an abundance
of rosy purple flowers, the habit being all that
could be desired. Mile. Therese Rey, Mrs.
E. G. Hill and H. Shoesmith will be grand for
market work if they will adapt themselves to
the market growers' cultural methods ; if not'
they will, however fine, be valueless for profit-
able culture. Numberless fine varieties aro
shut out from our markets through not being
sufficiently free-flowering or robust in habit.
This remark applies especially to that period
when the London markets are glutted with
Chrysanthemums. The prices then range so
low, that only the simplest culture applied to the
most prolific kinds will yield any profit. The
amount of glass now occupied by this flower is
enormous, the rule being Strawberries, Tomatoes,
and then Chrysanthemums.

Propagation from cuttings is rarely resorted
to ; the old stools are pulled to pieces, dibbled
iuto light soil in frames, kept hard and sturdy,
and set out in beds at the latter end of April or
early in May. A large proportion of the blooms
thus produced are of very indifferent quality,
but they meet a want, and the cultural expenses
are, of course, very small as compared with
those involved by pot culture. A few years
ago all Chrysanthemums that came in after the
first weetc in December were classed among the
late bloomers, but the flowering time has been
extended so far into the new year, that a variety
which cannot easily be had in good condition at
Christmas must now go with midseason kinds. A
very prominent place among

Late Varieties

has this season been taken by W. H. Lincoln.
This is undoubtedly the best of the late bloom-
ing yellows. The flowers are fine in form, rich
in colour, of good substance, and the growth is
sturdy and dwarf. It appears also to be but
little susceptible to mildew, a very important
point in the case of market Chrysanthemums,
which, owing to the way the plants are crowded
when housed, are apt to suffer much from this
disease. There is no difficulty in having good
blooms of this in the middle of January. W. H.
Lincoln has had a warm welcome from the
florists, which of course means much, but an-
other year's trial will be necessary to fully de-
termine its merits. Of the well-known Golden
Gem it would be difficult to say too much. It
is in every respect reliable, and can be bad in
fine condition from mid-Di cember till the end
of January. It is indeed a rare January Chry-
santhemum, and I think it will hold its own
for some time to come. Few Chrysanthemums
will yield so much for a little trouble as Golden
Gem. I have this season taken a lot of nice
flowers from plants that have been three years
in the same pots. They were cut back hard,
turned out of doors in April, and were occa-
sionally watered with liquid manure. It is not
many Chrysanthemums that would give good
results under such treatment. Golden Gem
varies wonderfully in colour, according to the
season at which the blooms open. Those that
commence to expand early in December deve-
lop a lovely shade of apricot, which is most
pronounced when a certain amount of disbud-
ding is practised. The later plants that come
into flower about the middle of the month show
little or nothing of this coloration, the flowers

January 26, 1895]

THE GARDEN.

57

being of a clear yellow. Boule de Neige is, I
consider, one of the most useful Chrysan-
themums we have. It gives less trouble
than any variety I have ever grown. It is
dwarf, but vigorous, requires no staking, no
stopping and is mildew-proof. Housed in the
first week in October, it comes in nicely from
mid-December to the new year, but it is of no
use for January cutting. Its place can then be
taken by Lady Lawrence, acknowledged as the
finest late white, but, unfortunately, very
subject to mildew. L. Canning is a worthy

gives just the variety of colour so much needed,
for without it one is reduced to a dead level of
yellow and white at the close of the year. E.
Molyneux can also be had tolerably late, but is
not so reliable as the foregoing. For very late
bloom, say from the second week in January
up to February, pot culture is decidedly best
and I am inclined to think pays, for at that time
there is a marked rise in price. It is difficult
to keep the foliage in good condition after De-
cember on lifted plants, but it is easy to do so
with well-rooted pot plants, and if the leaves

lected. To secure the crown bud at a suitable
time for taking, the plants must be stopped the
last week in March or the first week in April.
As soon as the plants break from the stopping, a
single shoot is taken up and grown on in the ordi-
nary way, the crown bud showing the first week
in August or thereabouts. — A. Y.

Chrysanthemum Vaucanson. From a photograph sent by Mr. ff. /. Jones, Ryecroft Nursery, Lewisham

companion to it, but I have not had enough
experience with this to know if it can be grown
on the planting-out method. Princess Blanche
is a very late white that can be had in February.
It is dwarf and free-flowering, and plants some
18 inches high will carry a score of nice pure
white blooms. I should say that this would be
good for marketing in pots at this time of year.
Cullingfordi I have always found extremely
useful at Christmas and the new year. I have
generally grown my plants of this in pots fol-
iate bloom, stopping them at intervals through
July and housing them about October 6. It

remain green the flowers will
stand well for several weeks.

expand and
J. C. B.

Chrysanthemum Bouquet de Dame. — I

was glad to see the note on this excellent early
white Chrysanthemum by " E. M." It has a
certain refinement about it when grown for large
blooms not to be met with in the majority of
other white kinds, although these may be larger.
For coming in before the majority of late October
and early November varieties I grow a fair num-
ber both of Bouquet de Dame and Mme. Louise
Leroy, both being excellent for the purpose. To
obtain good flowers the crown bud must be se-

JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUM

VAUCANSON.
A very few years ago it was the custom of the
Chrysanthemum - growing fraternity of
Toulouse to refer to that city as le bercecm
tin Chrysanthime. For a period extending
over sixty years the amateur and profes-
sional growers there had been indefatigable
in their efforts to improve the flower by
their seeding and selection of the numerous
varieties that they obtained, but during
the past seven or eight years raisers have
sprung up in other parts of France who
bid fair to eclipse even the most successful
of the southern growers. Some little
suspicion of coining events seems to have
been present in the mind of a writer in the
" Anuales de la Societe d'Horticulture de la
Haute Garonne" (vol. xxxv., 1888), where
he concludes a report on the society's work
by referring to the extension of Chrysan-
themum culture, and advises the amateurs
and nurserymen of Toulouse to double
their care and their efforts if they wish to
maintain their position at the head of the
Chrysanthemum world.

Whether this friendly counsel has been
laid to heart by the growers of Toulouse it
is difficult to say, but it is beyond doubt
that Grenoble has in recent times acquired
a reputation for new seedliDg Chrysanthe-
mums the like of which Toulouse never
possessed. The name of Ernest Calvat
lias become inseparable from the town of
Grenoble, but even he is not alone in the
work of seedling-raising in that town.

The variety selected for illustration in
this week's issue, Vaucanson, is a Grenoble
seedling raised by M. Ad. Testout, and
was sent out by M. Hoste, of Lyons, in
the spring of 1803. It was reported upon
by M. Viviand Morel in the Lyons llor-
ticole for January 15 of that year, but in
what terms I cannot say, not being in
possession of the number in question. At
that time some little interest was being
taken in the new section of hairy Chry-
santhemums, and Vaucanson witli others,
such as Chrysanthemiste Delaux, Enfants
des Gaules, Mireille, Sautel 1893, Sou-
venir de l'Ami Coye, and several others
of less repute, were imported by Mr.
Jones, of Lewisham, to meet the popular
demand in this country. Vaucanson was
at the time described as a seedling from
Louis Boehmer, crossed with the Ameri-
can variety Mrs. Andrew Carnegie. The
distributor pointed out that its colour,
dark violet-amaranth, with a lilac reverse,
was quite new in its class, and this is un-
doubtedly the fact. Under English treatment
the flower is large, very hairy, as the illustra-
tion shows, having sharp pointed florets, form-
ing a very globular, solid-looking bloom of
the Japanese incurved type. The blooms which
first came under my notice were those grown
by Mr. Jones in the year of its introduction,
when I paid him a visit as late in the season as
November 27. I also saw it again in the Rye-
croft Nursery on November 3 last year, and
again at a meeting of the N.C.S. floral com-
mittee on the 21st of the same month. On

58

THE GARDEN

[January 26, 1895

each occasion it seems to have been a charac-
teristic bloom, for my notes of its description
specially allude to the Japanese incurved form
of the flower, the great length of floret, and the
sharply pointed extremities.

To those who admire varieties of this pecu-
liar section, Vaucanson is undoubtedly an ac-
quisition and worthy of cultivation. If less
chaste in appearance than Enfant des deux
Mondes, it has not the feeble constitution of
Mrs. Alpheus Hardy nor the dull, unattrac-
tive colour of Louis Boehmer. It is larger in
size than either of these, more globular in
build, and a more massive flower in every way.
The chief aim of those growers who are now
devoting themselves to the hairy varieties
should be improvement in constitution, build and
colour. When this is accomplished, hairy Chry-
santhemums may become much more popular
than they are now. Although it is too early
in the year to give any estimate of the number
of new hairy varieties that we shall receive
from France or America this year, it may
be useful to mention that one seedling grower
informs me he will distribute seventeen varie-
ties of his own raising.

In conclusion, it may be observed that Vau-
canson is of a deeper and better colour in
every respect than Louis Boehmer. It is a
variety that offers no difficulties in the way of
cultivation. Its season is the month of Novem-
ber, as will be seen from previous remarks, and
it has the advantage of not being over-tall,
about 4 feet being its height. To secure large
blooms, crown buds should be taken in August,
and the size of pots for the final shift should be
10 inches. C. Harman-Payne.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR THE NEW

YEAR.
Late-flowering Chrysanthemums are so valuable
for cutting, that I always grow a good number of
them. It may be of service to some of your
readers if the names of those now (January 4) in
full bloom are given. Of large-flowering Japan-
ese kinds, W. H. Lincoln is the best. This has
been written of as an early-flowering kind, but
by selecting the terminal buds and reducing them
to from nine to twelve on a plant, good blooms
can be had at this season, and the deep yellow or
golden colour of the flowers makes them most
effective. The habit, too, being naturally dwarf
and the foliage also good, enhance its value, as
the plants may be used for house decoration. Its
one drawback is that it requires disbudding,
small flowers being neither shapely nor effective.
Of the same colour is Golden Gem, a most valu-
able kind when well grown. It requires quite
different treatment from the foregoing, as dis-
budding entirely spoils it. It should be allowed
to develop all its buds, then beautiful sprays of
flower will be the result. I do not think that
this kind is grown nearly so much as it deserves,
probably because it has been found wanting in
size even when disbudding has been practised,
and the colour, too, suffers under such treatment.
Chrysanthemums vary greatly in their lasting
powers when cut, but I find this variety quite
one of the best stayers we have. Boule de
Neige is also an excellent variety, and it should
be treated precisely the same as Golden Gem.
It is even more free- flowering than that variety,
and both kinds being naturally late-flowering,
no special treatment is needed to get them
to bloom at this season. The flowers arc
pure white and remind me very forcibly of
those of Ethel, which it greatly resembles, the
difference being in size, Boule de Neige being
small-flowered. All the above-mentioned kinds
carry their foliage very well indeed. L. Canning
is a pure white, large- flowered, reSexed Japanese.
I have it in good form now on disbudded plants.
The only dou t I have about it is that it is not

free-flowering enough to make it very profitable.
Mrs. E. W. Clarke is another large late kind, and
belongs to the incurved Japanese class. In addi-
tion to its lateness it has the charm of being
violet-scented, and its colour, amaranth, is rare at
this season. Pelican is a very fine kind for late
work, and its creamy-white much-curled florets
make it a very attractive variety. The last on my
list is Christmas Eve, or Mrs. H. Cannell; un-
fortunately, the same variety has been sent out
under both names. When well grown it is mag-
nificent. In size— I do not mean depth— (mere
lumpiness of bloom I hate in a Chrysanthemum),
in form, and in the purity of its whiteness it is
unsurpassed. The great height of the plant is its
one bad point. Like the three foregoing, it must
be disbudded to get it in good form; if not, it
will show an " eye" that spoils its purity.

In addition to the above I have still very good
blooms of Lord Brooke. This I have yet to prove
for late work, its lateness this year having pro-
bably been due to late striking. There is, how-
ever, no mistake about its lasting powers, as
blooms that were fully expanded some weeks ago
still look quite fresh. J. C. Tallack.

Striking- Chrysanthemums. — A trade
grower recently remarked to me that it was a
bad plan to propagate Chrysanthemums from
plants that have been highly "fed. The cuttings,
he observed, might look stout and the growth of
the plants afterwards appear strong and satisfac-
tory, but in the end unripe wood, blind buds, and
deformed blooms result. Far better is it, he ob-
served, to increase the stock from plants grown
under the non-stimulating treatment, even though
they should be smaller and less taking in appear-
ance to start with. In proof of the truth of his
assertion I may mention that a batch of plants
grown near here for the production of large
blooms and raised from ordinary decorative stock
produced flowers deeper and more solid, though
somewhat smaller and less coarse than are gene-
rally seen. Moreover, the flowers lasted much
longer in good condition. — J. C.

Chrysanthemum Etoile de Lyon.— I was

not aware until recently that this variety could
be had in such good condition so late in the sea-
son. Only lately I saw in a small nursery in the
midlands a good stock of it in really good condi-
tion. The plants had been grown on two in a
9-inch pot, stopped fairly late, and not subjected
to any feeding. They were kept out in the open
as late as possible, being, of course, protected
from frost at night, and when brought indoors
were placed in a cool house. The petals were
not coarse, as is generally the case with large
blooms of this variety, and the centres were
nicely filled up, which can seldom be said of the
various late whites. Those who need white
flowers in January will do well to give Etoile de
Lyon, grown on the above principle, a trial. —
J. C.

Chrysanthemum Miss Dorothea Shea. —
"Grower," in his notes on " Chrysanthemums at
the Royal Aquarium," mentions a bloom of this
variety as being the best in the whole exhibition.
It would be interesting to know the height of the
plant the bloom was taken from. I have secured
large flowers and of good colour of this variety,
but the plants which produced them grew to the
height of 9 feet, and I do not think I shall grow
it again, a9 a plant which grows to this height
before giving its best bloom is useless to me. The
height given in catalogues is 5 feet, but the flower
produced at this height, and which is from the
first crown bud, is very poor. If the best flowers
are only to be secured from terminals, then this
and the height the plant will ultimately attain
should be given. According to my experience,
Chrysanthemums which grow tall before pro-
ducing their best flowers are of little use. — A.

YOTJNG.

Chrysanthemum Golden Wedding. —

Anent my note of the above variety (p. 514, last
volume), "A. Y." inquires (p. 9) whether the

failures to which I referred are not the result of
over-feeding. For the majority I cannot say, but
speaking of it in two instances which came under
my notice, failure was certainly not due to " over-
feeding," or, indeed, feeding at all, as we usually
accept the term. In the one no chemical manures
were applied at all, and in the other soot-water
and top-dressings of soot were used periodically.
Yet, notwithstanding, several plants in both in-
stances perished, and to the growers of them the
reason is by no means clear. The manner of their
dying off is, however, quite compatible with over-
feeding, and it is possible that over- watering may
be at the root of the trouble. The demand for it
has been large, and no doubt a large portion of
the stock has been raised from "eyes" only.
Such as these could not possibly possess the
vigour of good root cuttings. When these latter
are plentiful we sha 11 no doubt see Golden Wedding
in its true form. — H.

SEASONABLE CULTURAL NOTES.
The earliest inserted batch of cuttings in a closely
fitting propagating case or under handlights in a
cool house will by this time have become nicely
rooted. To strengthen the growth, air should be
admitted by tilting the lights on one side a little
at first, increasing the quantity as the young
plants become inured to the air. Any cuttings
that flag should be placed in a separate light so
that they can be kept closer until they will bear
exposure freely. The strongest growing varieties
are those that root first. When the plants will
bear full exposure to the air without flagging they
should be stood close to the glass in a cool house
so that the growth will be stocky. Much depends
upon the manner in which the foundation of the
future plant is laid.

I fear many plants are spoilt during this stage ;
they either are too much crowded or have too
warm quarters assigned to them. Chrysanthe-
mums should never be subjected to artificial
warmth beyond what is necessary to keep out
frost. If this rule is strictly adhered to we should
not hear so many complaints about the excessive
tall growth of certain sorts which are really under
favourable conditions naturally the opposite. A
shelf suspended to the main rafters in a cool house
affords a capital site for the young plants until
they are ready to be transferred to the frames.
The shelves may be about 9 inches wide, according
to circumstances, and on each side there should
be a groove to run the water off to one end. Here
the plants will obtain abundance of light and air,
which is just what is required. The plants
during this stage should be carefully watered,
never allowing the roots to remain dry for
any length of time. When the plants are
thoroughly well rooted and before the small
pots in which the single plants are growing are
quite full of roots, they should be shifted into
larger ones. One of the greatest mistakes a culti-
vator can make is to allow the roots to become
matted together before the plants are trans-
ferred to larger pots. The advantage of striking
the cuttings singly in small pots will now be
apparent, as the plants are easily repotted without
giving them a check. When several cuttings are
placed in one pot, the disintegration of the soil
from the roots that must of necessity take place
in transferring them to single pots must check
the growth. As it is not wise to use pots too
large to flower them in, some thought must be
bestowed upon this phase of culture at the present
time, or when the time comes for the final potting
it may be found that the plants already occupy
pots too large to admit of their going comfortably
into those in which they are to flower. For single
plants pots 9 inches in diameter are large enough.
If larger are in stock— say 10J inches or 11 inches
—I advise that two plants be grown in each ;
they grow equally well, less space is occupied, and
surplus pots are' utilised. The present or first
shift from the cutting stage should be into those
3J inches in diameter. The next time, if ."H-ineh
ones are employed, no difficulty will be felt in
finally transferring them to the flowering size.

January 26, 1895.J

THE GARDEN".

59

The soil used for this first potting should con-
sist of two parts fibrous loam, one part leaf soil and
one part spent Mushroom-bed manure, with a
free admixture of sharp silver sand. If the loam
is inclined to be heavy, add crushed charcoal
freely. For the greater convenience in potting
pass the compost through a coarse sieve, cubbing
the fibrous pieces through also. The pots should
be carefully drained and quite clean. Over the
crocks place some of the rougher parts of the soil
and pot firmly. If the soil is moist when used, as
it should be,' no water will be required for a day
or two. Return them after potting to their former
position on the shelves till the roots run through
the soil to the sides of the pots. Any plants that
need support to encourage them to grow erect
should have a small stake placed to them.

E. Moltneux,

Flowe ? Garden.

THE AMERICAN ALOE.

(AGAVE AMERICANA.)

This is now a roadside weed in many tropical
and sub-tropical countries, but it is not usual
for it to be met with grown permanently in
English gardens in the open air, even in the
most favoured parts. In Mr. Dorrien-Smith's
garden at Tresco Abbey, Scilly, there are good
examples of this and other species of Agave
which have withstood for years the winter's
cold of that island without suti'ering, and in the
gardens of several of the towns in South Corn-
wall the American Aloe is to be seen here and
there as an outside plant. The plant shown in
the accompanying engraving is in the garden
at Tredarvat, Penzance, Cornwall, and it is
an exceptionally large and healthy specimen
for such a position. This plant will bear 6° or
8° of frost, or even more if the atmosphere is
dry. Ou the Riviera it is abundant not only
in gardens, but on roadsides ; and on waste laud
near the sea one meets with large colonies of it
in all stages of development, from self-sown
seedlings to huge plants bearing pole-like flower-
stems 25 feet or 30 feet high.

It is popularly supposed that the American
Aloe takes about a hundred years to grow to
the flowering stage. When starved it may live
to that age, and even longer, without flowering ;
but in the tropics it flowers — "poles" is the
correct expression, I believe — when from seven
to ten years old. In South Africa it is used as
a fence plant and lasts about ten years. Very
strong plants have leaves 0 feet long and form
huge rosettes 12 feet high by about 15 feet
through, which when crowned with tall "poles"
beariug large candelabrum-like heads of yellow
flowers are very striking.

There are several species of Agave in flower
now in the succulent house at Kew. As a rule
all Agaves — and there are nearly 150 species —
perish after they have bloomed once, but there
are some which flower annually or at more dis-
tant intervals, and do not sutler in consequence.
W.

Verbascum pbceniceum. — An apology isdue
from me to "J. E. N. ," who recently sent a photo-
graph and description of this plant to Tue Garden,
and I have now no doubt that the name was
quite correct. I trusted too much to fifty years'
experience in my own gardens in four different
counties, but it appears that the experience
of Mr. Arnott and Mr. Burton as well as of
" J. E. N." is exactly the reverse of mine, therefore
my negative evidence falls to the ground. — T. H.
Archer-Hind.

It is curious that this plant has never

ripened seed with Mr. Archer-Hind, as it used

to seed freely with me in another garden a few was, I believe, M. Correvon's reply which first in

years back. As regards varieties, too, Mr. Archer
Hind's experience differs widely from mine, for
in several batches that I raised there was a fair
proportion of white-flowered ones and many other
shades of colour, from pink to deep purple-red.
An important point to bear in mind regarding
this plant is that the sun causes its flowers to
droop. It does perfectly well in shade, and when

formed me of the laws in question, and that I
have never taken any part against them. That
which I need alone ask leave to add can best be
said by reference to Mr. Ewbank's most timely
anil instructive note. This makes it clear that
he is under the impression, as I know are so many
others at home and abroad, that M. Correvon's
usual practice is to collect blooms and seeds only

direct sun does not reach the plants, the flowers | of alpine plants (but not their roots), and not to
remain open and fresh throughout the day. — A. H. I sell collected plants. How could Mr. Ewbank

gain any other impression if (as I am sure in this
case) M. Correvon acted as described by Mr.
Ewbank on the occasion to which the latter refers !
For there is little or nothing that I can recall in
all that M. Correvon has (publicly) written to
correct that impression, and there is very much
to confirm it. Further, his advertisements of his

THE GENEVAN PLANT PROTECTION
SOCIETY.

To the Editor of The Garden.

Sir,— Allow me the shortest possible reply to nursery (circulated by the association through
M. Correvon's letter appearing in your issue of hotels and otherwise) conveyed (if they do not

still convey) the same impression, and
no other. I assert with complete con-
fidence and knowledge, and am pre-
pared to prove my assertion before
any tribunal, that that impression
is completely erroneous ; that he
freely collects plants annually himself
and by others, and that it is part of
his business to do so. Mr. Ewbank
refers to Eritrichium, and Androsace,
and Gentians as plants which (he can
testify) M. Correvon held sacred from
the trowel. It is within my know-
ledge that in all three classes M. Cor-
revon has collected for sale freely.

M. Correvon refers to my allegations
as " malicious insinuations." What I
want to know is how far he denies
their truth. Whether or no they
approve or disapprove Mons. Cor-
revon's modes of proceeding, I believe
that all fair-minded persons interested
in the general subject of alpine plants
will agree that it is unsatisfactory
that the "censorship"' over "col-
lectors" should fall into the hands
of one who is himself a collec-
tor, and who has every interest
to license himself very liberally.
As regards the rest of his curi-
ous and varied compilation of
charges, I can happily afford to treat
them with contempt. The motives
are obvious, and I must wholly de-
cline, even in self-defence, to afflict
GARDEN readers with what I am fear-
ing might really come to be thought
of, however erroneously, as a quarrel
between rival nurseries. One point,
however, has really some little general
interest, viz., how far should a nursery
follow popular and garden nomencla-
ture when it differs from botanical?
Whatever may be thought on that
matter, I imagine that those many
botanists who are competent to judge
him will be tickled at the spectacle of
M. Correvon laboriously "straining"
January 12. He now alleges that four years ago in public at such a comparative "gnat," when
I accused his society of being the authors of the they havj so frequently observed him "swallow

The American Aloe at Tredarvat, Penzance. Engraved for The
Garden from a photograph by Mrs. Ross, Trevean.

Phylloxera laws, <fcc. To use the mildest Ian
guage, this allegation is a gross misrepresentation,
as M. Correvon cannot but beaware, unless he has
burnt my letters to him on the matters he refers
to. The facts are these : Four years ago a well-
known plant-lover made to me an accusation

ing camels" without any apparent difficulty or
discomfort.— H. S. Leonard.

Why M. Correvon should claim so much

credit in the matter of seedling alpines I cannot
understand, unless in fact he keeps two distinct
sets of plants. I formerly used to get an occasional

that M. Correvon, or his association, took means consignment from him, but they were invariably

to stop the collected plants of others at the Swiss collected plants which he sent, generally placed

frontier. I passed on to M. Correvon, and to him in pots a short time before they were started off,

only (and surely this was no unfriendly act to him), and they as invariably died. Two friends of

the particulars of this charge, which was never mine, both holding distinguished and responsible

my own. He promptly met it, gave the explana- positions in the horticultural world, who were in

tion which he indicates, viz., the existing Phyl- his place at Geneva some time ago assured me

loxera law. This I at once forwarded to the that they saw little else but collected plants there,

proper quarter and set the matter right. It would I do not object to collected plants ; many thousands

thus not be incorrect to say that I was the means come here annually. Of course they require some

of disposing of the charge. It is simply false to care to become established, but when they

charge me as the author of it. I may add that it are established, who knows or cares whether

GO

THE GARDEN.

[January 26, 1895.

they were raised from seeds here cr on their
native mountains. This hue and cry about
collected plants is all nonsense. I should like to
ask how many home-raised seedlings can be had
of say Azalea procumbens, Matthiola Valesiaca,
Rhododendron Cham;ecistus and many others I
could name. Really the only point is that the plant
shall be established, either in a pot, or in the open
ground. This being so, the rest is easy. Such plants
are capable of thriving elsewhere under ordinary
conditions, but when collected plants are sent out
as established, and in that belief are treated as
such, disaster is pretty certain to follow. — T.
Smith, Neicry.

NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER FLOWERS

IN SOUTH DEVON.

To the Editor of The Garden.

Sir, — I read with some interest the article on
p. 4!>6 of The Garden headed ' ' November in
South Devon." My experience as to tempera-
ture and weather has been much the same as
that of your correspondent, and the wet has
interfered greatly with all gardening operations.
There was a fair amount of bloom in the open
throughout November, and this state of things
coutinued in a less marked degree through De-
cember. Chrysanthemums have been very
handsome, producing as large blooms in the open
in many cases as in pots. I formed a small
plantation in the back garden, chiefly of last
year's plants, and have had a continuous supply
of cut bloom till the frost came. On November
24 I had the following varieties in beautiful
bloom outdoors : Viviand Morel, Gloire du
Rocher, Beauty of Exmouth, Florence Davis
and several others. Two or three plants of
Florence Davis continued producing tine large
blooms till the last day of December. There
are still flowers on the plants, though at last
much disfigured by frost. It seems to me one
of the best for outdoor planting. Besides Flor-
ence Davis I have during December had the
varieties Louis Boehmer, E. W. Beckett and
W. A. Manda blooming well in the same plan-
tation. The last-named is still fairly good in
spite of the frost, though the flowers are small
and, through never having been disbudded, a
little crowded.

As regards other plants, I have had the fol-
lowing in bloom outdoors during November and
the greater part of December : Chrysanthemum
frutescens. China Roses, splendid clumps of
Schizostylis coccinea, Laurustinus and Arbutus,
yellow Jasmine and several Antirrhinums.
Throughout November and until the early part
of December I had a fine shrubby Alonsoa incisa
producing a mass of scarlet blooms on one
rockery, while at the base of another an Ourisia
coccinea continued for a long time to produce its
red trumpet-like flowers, the soil about it hav-
ing been made very heavy and firm. At the
back of an old rockery, and sheltered to some
extent by a wooden fence and some Cupressus
macrocarpa behind, is a fine shrub of Genista
fragrans (Cytisus racemosus), which I found
when I came to Teignmouth in June, 1803.
Many of its higher shoots were cut down by the
frost of January, 1804, though the shrub as a
whole passed well through that winter. This
winter it has not suffered appreciably yet, and
it was in beautiful bloom on Christmas Day.
No doubt it will now have a rather severe
check. Besides the above decidedly half-
hardy plant, I may mention that most of the
Calceolarias in my garden survived the short,
but very severe frost of last January, and have
done well this year, and also the Eschscholtzia
(usually regarded as an annual). This last is in

a corner between a clump of Pampas Grass and
a Cupressus hedge, and was here when I came.
It shows no sign of dying. I believe the
plants must have parsed through the previous
winter, when the house was unoccupied, and
this was certainly the case in the garden of the
neighbouring house where the Calceolarias are
quite shrubby and have lived some years.

Returning to plants in bloom in December,
there were cut on Christmas Day or picked
the day before, besides Chrysanthemums and
other plants mentioned before as in bloom
tarlier in the month or in November, two dis-
tinct species of Veronica (a white-flowered and
a reddish purple species), one or two Periwinkles,
a white Godetia, and a Carnation Carl Schury.
This Carnation has been in bloom outdoors
more or less abundantly since August. It is
still in bud. This seems very remarkable for
the time of year. Another most abundant
bloomer which was still in flower in October
was Carnation Meta (one of the section known
formerly as Painted Ladies), the upper side of
each petal being cerise and the under side white
— a beautiful combination.

The frost and rather severe cold have at last
come, and we have had the thermometer down
as low as 27" or thereabouts for several days.
I find it rather trying for my greenhouse plants,
the warmest part where are several Orchids
having gone down as low as 41° in the night,
this at a time when Lrelia Dayana is opening a
fine bloom, the lip of which, I fear, may be
rather deformed in consequence, and with
Lselia anceps, Oncidium unguiculatum, and
Odontoglossum Rossi doing their best also to
flower shortly.

One Chrysanthemum continues to ornament
the greenhouse well — -W. W. Coles. One plant
of this is just opening some fine blooms, and
another has had very beautiful flowers for some
time. It seems to me specially good for late
flowering. E. F. Clark.

Teignmouth.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Propagating. — The question of the propagation
of summer-bedding plants from cuttings will soon
require attention, and although the actual numbers
of such plants show a steady decrease with each
succeeding year, the fact that nearly all that are
used are spring-struck stuff is bound to make the
propagator busy at this season of the year. If
there is no special propagating house with hot
water to supplythe bottom heat,a substitute must
be f ou nd for this in the shape of a rather deep pit well
filled with good Oak or Beech leaves, with a little
stable manure added in thin layers as the work
progresses. There should always be the means
provided of working inside the propagating pit,
and if these do not already exist, it is advisable to
throw- out enough soil to allow for head room. If
the pit is not of sufficient depth, leave space for a
narrow path at the back and run up a slight wall,
or, failing this, a fence of stout slabs to keep the
heating material together. This may sound a very
rough-and-ready arrangement to those who are
provided with the best appliances, but it must be
remembered that many gardeners have to furnish
a lot of stuff under rather awkward conditions.
One may regret the necessity for this, and advo-
cate specially in such cases the strengthening of
the herbaceous class, but until this is done and
beds and borders have to be filled with other
things, it is simply a question of doing the best
under existing circumstances. With respect to
the type of a good bedding plant to be ready by
the end of May, it cannot be too strongly enforced
that one thoroughly good plant is worth four or
five leggy, stick-like subjects. A typical plant
should be sturdy and stocky, breaking away well
from the stopping and thoroughly well hardened.

The extensive use of Fuchsias, Begonias, both
tuberous and fibrous, and Antinhin ;ms has
greatly reduced the number of zonal Pelargoniums
of average size, that is the Vesuvius, Amaru nth,
and Jacoby types, and with plenty of silvery
Centaureas one can dispense with the Flower of
Spring and Bijou types. I find the dwarfer varie-
ties useful for small beds or for massing in quan-
tity round taller plants. West Brighton Gem,
Surprise and Golden Harry Hieover are struck
singly in small pots and pinched once or twice to
ensure a sturdy plant. I am striking a batch of
Turtle's Surprise this year for bedding. I fancy
from its dwarf habit and free-flowering properties
it should be an acquisition. The idea is to u?e it in
connection with Centaureas or in quantity with
occasional plants of Eucalyptus. Where any
stock of special varieties of Verbenas and Petunias
has been kept over from the preceding season,
the stock pots may be placed presently in warmth,
so that the young tops may come away by the
time the cuttings are required. One of the earliest
things to be started should be Ageratum. A good
stock of it is always acceptable, as it is a wonder-
fully useful little thing for dwarf bedding arrange-
ments. Vesuvius and Mrs. Clibran Tropa-olums
are two very useful plants in their respective
shades of colour, and they possess the merit of
doing well in poor soil, flowering profusely with-
out rank growth. The propagation of any plants
that are of rapid growth and come away quickly
into good bushy stuff may be deferred until later
in the season, such, for instance, as Lobelias, the
variegated Mesembryanthemum and Sedum, and
the Iresines. Any plants required for special
purposes, as early planting in boxes, &c., should
be among the first started, the trailing Cam-
panulas, white and blue, Harrison's Musk, Ball
of Fire Tropieolum, one or two good Ivy-leaved
Pelargoniums, as Mme. Thibautand Jeanne d'Arc,
and a thoroughly good strain of Petunia are
examples of such requisites. Young plants of
Heliotropes, Fuchsias, and Begonias that are re-
quired for a similar purpose may also be moved
along to be read}' at the same time. Any herba-
ceous plants required for special work may also
soon receive attention. Autumn-struck cuttings of
Antirrhinums and Pentstemons may be boxed off
or planted out in frames if any such are available,
and rooted slips of Phlox, both the early and late-
flowering varieties, inserted singly in small pots.
Any stock of herbaceous Lobelias, too, that
had to be lifted and have been wintered in boxes
may be gone over soon, divided and re-boxed,
allowing sufficient room so that they can presently
be transferred to the open ground without any
injury to the root. In this list of plants may also
be included the Marguerite strain of Carnations,
which are perfectly hardy and come safely
through the sharpest winters. When kept on
through the winter the grass should be thinned
out, the best shoots pegged here and there to cover
the ground, and a little soil or peat Moss manure
where this is available shaken in among the
plants. Seed of this strain can be sown early
in February in boxes and placed in a vinery at
work or in a propagating pit fairly well up to the
glass, and if the seedlings are pricked off into a
suitable compost so soon as they can be handled,
nice sturdy little plants are available by the end
of April.

Whilst on the subject of herbaceous plants I
should like to note that if any small bits of new
species or varieties are acquired, they should be
planted in the nursery beds pending the oppor-
tunity of increasing as soon as practicable. In
common, doubtless, with man}' others, I used to
give them a place at once on the herbaceous bor-
der, the result being a wonderfully mixed up
affair, with not enough of any one plant to make
a creditable display. The spell of frost last week
afforded an opportunity of finishing the mulching
of herbaceous borders, enough peat moss manure
having been saved for the purpose, and as there
was a little to spare, the Carnation and Viola beds
received the benefit of it. Any that can be ob-
tained from the present time through next month
will be transferred to the beds of Polyanthus.

January 26, 18S-5.

THE GARDEN

61

Pruning deciduous shrubs. — We have taken
advantage of the milder weather to run through
the quarters of deciduous shrubs that were
planted (grouping species together as much
as practicable) on sites from which brakes of old
Laurels had been removed. There is a remark-
able difference in the yearly growth of such young
shrubs ; some seem, as it were, to steady them-
selves with early flowering, as the Althaeas and
Ribes, and make little headway, whilst annual
growth on Weigelas and Syringas is very rank.
The pruning is naturally only a matter of heading
back a very rank shoot and cutting anything
awkwardly placed to a good break, as well as
keeping the plants clear of each other. Cuttings
are taken of all those things that strike readily in
this way, and a few layers put down of speciali-
ties that it is desirable to grow into nice sized
plants as early as possible. There is little room
now between the shrubs for other things, but
where an open space is to be found it is filled with
a few Foxgloves, an occasional bit of Chrysan-
themum maximum, and a few other tall herba-
ceous plants that are suitable for such positions
and stand out well between the shrubs. Several
clumps of Lilium candidum were put in with the
shrubs, and these remain, furnishing us, as a
rule, with some very nice flower-spikes compara-
tively free from disease. E. Burrell.

Clartinoiit.

SIEBOLD'S PRIMROSE.

Next to the popular Chinese Primrose the many
varieties of Siebold's Primrose are without
doubt the best of a large family for pot culture.
Those who have seen the fine clumps in pots
staged at the Auricula show in April, or the
remarkable exhibits of them made by some two
or three trade growers, will admit that of the
hardier PrimrosfS these are the most pleasing,
varied and beautiful in pots. It seldom answers
to allow pot clumps to remain in the pots over
one year, as in such case the crowns and
leafage become so crowded that they are weak
and often incapable the succeeding or third
year of producing flowers. Just now that roots
are resting is the most suitable time to break up
the pot clumps, select the crowns into sizes,
and then re-pot. Six-inch pots are the best
for ordinary purposes, and where the rhi-
zomes are stout and carry strong crowns, then
about eight or nine of them should suffice to
fill a pot of the size named. Smaller roots
may be planted more thickly, as probably few of
them will flower, but all may make good crowns
to bloom in succeeding years. In some cases,
notably in nurseries, it is the rule to plant
these crowns in shallow pans, and then when
in bloom to lift the plants and block them more
thickly into pots, so as to give an equal head of
bloom. In other cases crowns are put singly
into small pots, and from these turned thickly
into larger ones. It is best, however, to select
crowns that are strong and place them in pots
as advised, for the bloom product in such case
is sure to be good. The growth is even aDd
compact, the leafage forms a capital base, and
the heads of bloom rising out from it help to
render the entire clump a handsome object.

Japanese Primroses like a compost of good
turfy loam, old decayed manure and sand in
suitable proportions. The pots should be filled
up to within about 1 inch of the top with this
compost, and it may be gently pressed down.
Then when the rhizome crowns are evenly laid
on the soil, gently pressed, covered with half
an inch of fine sandy compost, watered, and
then stood in a cool frame, a good start has
been made towards the furnishing of a most use-
ful and valuable lot of pot plants to flower
freely in the spring. Ordinarily, the roots of
these Primroses are hardy, but perhapi they
sutler more from damp than from frost. Still,

it is well to keep them somewhat protected, yet
not covered up too closely, in a cold frame lest
damp should prove more harmful than frost
would have been. Growth ensues very much
according to temperature, but little or no root-
action follows until leafage breaks, and if kept
cool that is not until t'le winter has well ad-
vanced. If heat be permitted it should be of a
very gentle kind, the pots being stood on a
greenhouse shelf near the glass so that the foli-
age be not unduly drawn. The bloom-stems
then soon break up, and where there is enough
roots potted so that a succession may be
maintained, it is thus very easy to have Primula
Sieboldi in bloom in a greenhouse lor at least
three months. Except Primula sinensis, there
are few Primroses, not even the garden
Polyanthuses, that can be induced to flower
over so long a period.

Siebold's Primrose will in f avourabl e cond itions
do well outdoors treated as a hardy rock plant.
Its impatience under moisture renders an ele-
vated position on a rockery the best. For this
purpose the dark red coloured forms seem
best adapted. When so grown bloom conies in
May and June, and the colours are richer and
deeper than is the case under house or frame
culture. Of course, too, the leafage is less
drawn, but good clumps of such a variety as
laciniata have been seen when in full bloom as
amongst the loveliest of Primulacese. Varieties
are so many, that it is needless to enumerate
them. They can be found in various trade lists,
and when well grown as advised always prove
to be very charming pot plants. A. I).

ABOUT PLANT HARDINESS.

I take it that though the term "hardy" has
a wide and useful application for us as English
gardeners, it is, nevertheless, a relative or vague
term. It is true that in regard to hundreds of
well-known species the term may be in every
sense of the word correctly employed, but when
we take into account the vast numbers of species
that during a man's lifetime may be introduced,
to say the least the term "hardy" cannot equally
or for all of us be reliably applied. We know
that the native country or habitat of a plant is no
certain guide as to whether it will prove what we
generally understand by the term hardy in culti-
vation in our open gardens. It is a very common
occurrence when amateurs are comparing notes
for one to say, " I lose that plant every winter,"
and for his friend to say, "It goes on all right
with me," and then on further inquiry, very often
there is no ready evidence of much difference in
the two climates, and certainly nothing in the
way of a lower temperature on the part of the one
who loses his plant to suggest that it has been
lost merely from intenser cold. I say this is a
very common occurrence, and I think we may
reasonably at once despatch the idea that want of
hardiness in a plant or enduring properties dur-
ing a winter is in relation merely to the amount
of cold in a given district. Doubtless the vari-
ableness of our winters is alone accountable for
the loss of many plants that under other condi-
tions, say those of a covering of snow or even
fewer or less wide variations of temperature,
might come through safe even with more cold.

To the close observer very simple matters have
led to important results. For instance, I find I
can grow on an eastern slope sharply inclined some
plants that do not in the same garden survive a
winter on a similar western slope. This may not
seem much to cause all the difference, but if we
inquire into it, it implies a great deal. If you
put the spade into the soil during winter, though
the quality and texture of the soil may be alike in
both cases, you may find the soil of the western
slope soddened with wet and the other compara-
tively dry ; and when we remember the redoubled
grip afforded to frost by the agency of wet in the

land, it may amount to a great deal in the way of
life or death to plants that are known to be, as it
were, just on the dividing line of the "hardies"
and the "doubtfuls." In speaking on this point
I have especially in mind my experience with two
or three plants, viz., Onoclea sensibilis, Agapan-
thus umbellatus, and Gentiana ornata.

On the other hand, I admit that there are many
plants that are perfectly hardy, though I know-
scores of instances both in my own and other
gardens where newly. planted specimens have
simply been converted into pulp from top to bottom
of their roots during winter. This occurs with
many plants that might be mentioned, but I will
only mention one or two in order more effectually,
perhaps, to show that it is more a want of skill on
the part of the gardener than of hardiness on the
part of the plant. Properly treated, nearly all
the Alstmmerias I venture to claim as hardy for
Yorkshire, but certainly that statement must be
qualified. It is the habit of all the Alstrifinerias
to embed themselves deeply in the ground, but if
the planter in the case of a young plant places
at what we may term for our present pur-
pose the young specimen at its normal depth at
first, it might not grow at all, and therefore if
planted near the surface the roots should be pro-
tected for one or even two winters with a warm
mulch either of manure or straw until the roots
normally place themselves in relation to the sur-
face. You might think it strange that a similar
thing occurs with the favourite Trop:tolum specio-
siira, so hardy in Scotland. I question if half the
difficulties we hear of in relation to establishing
this plant are caused by anything more than the
injury that occurs from wet and cold in winter to
newly-planted specimens which of necessity are
nearer the surface with their vital parts than the
roots would be naturally in the case of an esta-
blished plant. The roots and growing plants of
this, like the Alstnemerias, may often be found at
a depth of '2 feet to 3 feet, and a skilful gardener
will afford his young plants surface protection
during winter until the roots find their normal
place. To further confirm this, when once you
have well established this plant its roots are diffi-
cult to kill or eradicate. In short, to give many
plants a fair test for the quality of hardiness we
should know something about their root habit,
and should never forget the fact that among
plants that may fairly claim the property of
hardiness there are as well hardy plants with
tender roots as hardy roots with tender tops.
To make what I mean a little clearer, the tender
roots of Alstnemerias will send forth their young
growths in spring that not nearly suffer so much
from late frosts as a common Wallflower ; and, on
the other hand, the Dicentra spectabilis has a
root which, no matter how near the surface, zero
frosts cannot injure, but its early sprouts suffer
with 3° or 4" of frost. I am now, of course, merely
speaking to the point, that a hardy plant may have
tender roots with hardy tops just the same as a
tender-topped plant may have the hardiest of
roots, and that the salvation of the tender and
deeply-rooted species is only to be found in their
deeply-rooting habit, and that the skdful gar-
dener must nurse his young specimens accordingly
for a time. There is, however, this important
difference in the two classes here contrasted. In
the case of the hardier rooted species you can
afford to be more indifferent, as cold does not kill
the plant, but in the case of the tender rooted
subject, which from necessity as a young plant is
abnormally near the surface with its roots, it
must be killed unless you afford artificial pro-
tection to the artificially located roots.

Again, there is a form of plant hardiness which
may be described as constitutional from culture
as distinct from what one might speak of as the
natural hardiness of a plant. This, looked on in
the sense of contributory hardiness, is an impor-
tant feature in the case of many species, say, bor-
dering on the doubtful, as, for instance, in the
case of species which generally have a liking for
lime, as the Crucifers and Caryophyllea'. The
species of these orders are, I think I may safely
sav, of a hardier constitution when grown with

02

THE GARDEN.

[January 26, lir95.

plenty of lime in the soil. It seems, so to speak,
to give bone or robustness to the plants. Corre-
sponding hardiness of constitution, though other-
wise perhaps of a different nature, comes about
also in the case of most species grown with a full
exposure to sunshine, other conditions being
equally adapted for the plants, and when the sub-
jects are not those naturally affecting shady posi-
tions. Or, to speak in more practical or every-day
terms, skilfully and well-grown specimens are har-
dier than the individuals of the same species not
well grown. I think this is so, though I know
there are good plantsmen who hold that a plant
cannot be made hardier by culture or acclimatisa-
tion than it really is inherently. But this brings
us again to the same point, and we have to ask,
what is hardiness or the inherent degree of the
hardy property of any given species, and what are
the conditions that enable us to arrive at a fair
test? Take a common plant — the Wallflower. I
know market growers who cultivate this and ex-
perience fear and trembling all through the winter
for their broad plantings lest they should be killed,
and I know others who have crops that rarely or
never suffer in highly calcareous land, and to show
that the opposite results are not affected merely
by conditions of weather, there is to be seen, be-
sides the hardier condition of the lime-grown
crop, a habit of plant very different indeed,
though the seed has all been of the same kind.
The dwarfer, more twiggy and less leafy habit of
the lime-grown plants clearly shows that their
growth or culture has caused a change that has
rendered them better able to stand the winter.

To show that some plants may be less hardy in
captivity than in the wild state as regards cold
merely is no difficult matter. When we take the
records of the altitude and degrees of cold of the
wild habitats, we directly arrive at the fact that
when we rarely have similar low temperatures in
this country, it is some other condition or condi-
tions than cold alone which kill our garden indi-
viduals of the same species. For my own part, I
have come to the conclusion that we gee over
many dilliculties by the simple contrivance, of
whatever form, that will enable us to keep our
plants drier during winter, always supposing that
the plant is an established one. I know this is no
new doctrine, but how often do we find that,
though believed in, it is not practised? There
is another theory that I have pretty well satisfied
myself about that may not be as generally
accepted, and it is that, in view of our exceptional
winters or climate, we delay the planting of so-
called hardy flowers until too nearly in the teeth
of winter. I do not believe that the system of
late autumn planting could ever have originated
on a more tangible ground than that of conveni-
ence ; it certainly is not the best for the plant ;
and if we instance the scores or even hundreds of
kinds of hardy species that are so treated and yet
do well, it is no proof that they would not do
better were they transplanted earlier. I have
never yet learnt, either by theory or practice,
that any plant had its winter sleep as healthfully
when newly inserted as when earlier planted, and
in which case it had the natural attachment to
the soil, as it could not otherwise have when late
planted. Perhaps you most completely compro-
mise the late planting practice, by selecting for
the purpose pot-cultivated specimens, which carry
all or nearly all their summer roots intact, and
this fact may be, as I believe it to be, the chief
and best argument for pot-grown stock of hardy
species. But even those pot-grown specimens re-
main, as it were, detached from the natural Eoil
during winter when set late, and are liable to
suffer unless great pains are taken to make the
surrounding soil equable as regards density or tex-
ture in relation to that of the ball. We may miss
our way with many plants that have capabilities
of endurance by unskilled modes of treatment,
and inasmuch as plants may die from other
climatic conditions than cold, we have to consider
the property of hardiness in relation to our indivi-
dual or peculiar climates, and adapt our garden-
ing so that it does not combine, with the draw-
backs of climate, to distress and kill our plants,

but rather alleviates climatic conditions, and so
helps to sustain rather than weaken such species
as may not have a superabundance of capabilities.

Wooilrille, Kirks/all. J. Wood.

THE CULTURE OF THE GLADIOLUS.

The papers of " Enthusiast " and my old friend
Mr. Douglas on this subject have opened out
matters on which I desire to say something.
" Enthusiast"' feels surprised that I should call
the Gladiolus an unpopular flower, and adduces
in proof to the contrary the immense quantities
t hat he saw at the Langport nurseries of Messrs.
Kelway and Son, and also the brisk trade that
the firm carried on in cut blooms. But that is
not what I mean by a flower being popular ; I
would rather imply by that whether it was ex-
tensively grown and also exhibited by amateurs.
I call, for instance, the Rose or Chrysanthemum
popular flowers, widely different as they are in
character, because the number of growers and
exhibitors in all parts of the country is very
great. Show after show is devoted exclusively to
these flowers, but he would be a daring man
who would venture to start a Gladiolus exhibi-
tion. The late Rev. Joshua Dix did once get
together a considerable sum, and offered some
good special prizes at one of the R. H.S. shows
at South Kensington There was but little
response and the experiment was never repeated.
Therefore, as I have already contended, a flower
cannot be regarded as popular which is only ex-
hibited by two or three amateurs, and I quite
agree with what Mr. Douglas says as to its be-
ing the most disappointing flower one can
grow. I have personally known every amateur
who during the past thirty years has come for-
ward as an exhibitor. I have seen them one by
one retire, and when I have asked the reason,
"Oh ! I cannot keep the things ; they all go
wrong." I have also known many nurserymen
who have spent a good deal in attempting to
get up a collection, but who have abandoned
the attempt, sayiDg that it was no use throwing
money away on things they could not keep.
Knowing what I do of those that have gone
before, I am fully prepared for the announce-
ment sooner or later that amateurs in the south
have aho given up in despair.

Mr. Douglas revives in his paper on the sub-
ject a point in which we two have had much
controversy, viz., the supposed degeneration of
the flower. He has always considered this was
the cause of our losses. Perhaps in one respect
he and I would agree, viz., that the individual
bulbs of any variety, if taken up annually, will
decrease in size and probably in vigour of spike.
I have known bulbs of six years old from spawn
still to give vigorous shoots and good flower
stem, but unquestionably these are not to be
depended on, and, so far, there is degeneration
of the individual bulb, but this does not mean
the degeneration of the variety. You can get
as good bulbs of Meyerbeer as you could have
done the year after it was let out — some thirty
years or more ago. In the same way you can
also obtain as good bulbs of Duchess of Edin-
burgh as were to be had iive-and-twenty years
ago. Now how are these obtained ? Not from
the division of the old bulb, but from the spawn
saved from year to year ; and I am surprised to
find that Mr. Douglas speaks of these as also
degenerating. They will flower in the second
or third year and will afterwards follow the same
rule as the older bulbs ; but then in the cases
of most varieties the supply of spawn is kept
up, and although it involves some considerable
trouble, this appertains to most flowers which
are successfully cultivated, whether they be

bulbs or plants. Of course opinions will differ
as to the desirability of raising seedlings, and
Mr. Douglas's experience does not seem to be
very hopeful as to retaining good ones when
they are obtained. It is always a pleasing thing
to raise new flowers, but it is a vexing thing
not to be able to keep them. His experience is
evidently not that of all, or else how could
Messrs. Kelway and Burrell send out this year
varieties which were raised some six or seven
years ago ? They must have been able to get up
a stock. If, therefore, an amateur has both
time and space at his command he can very
easily follow out Mr. Douglas's directions and
raise seedlings. Most of them, as in all seed-
ling-raising, will be worthless, but he may get
some gems amongst them. Delta.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 998.

THE MUSK ROSE.
(with a coloured plate op r. moschata

VAR.*)

Although no other garden flower has such an
extensive literature as the Rose, it is surprising
that the artistic side of Rose growing has had so
little attention. Nearly all that has been done
is subservient to conventional methods, whose
chief fault is that they represent to us but one
aspect of the flower, and that the least beauti-
ful from an artistic point of view. The conse-
quence is that the Roses that nearly everyone
knows and grows are those which produce fine
double flowers. May they long continue in
popularity, but those who want their gardens
sweet and gay should not rest content with
these alone. Happily, there seems a growing
desire to plant the single types of this noble
family. It is difficult to find in gardens such
Rose pictures as may be seen by the roadside
in June, when Dog Roses and Sweet Brier
hang in wreaths from the hedges. Yet
we may have them, and lovelier ones, too,
if the picture that is annually created by
the Rose here figured be taken as a guide.
This is only one of many single Roses, but,
so far as I have seen and grown them,
the very best of them all. No words could
possibly exaggerate its beauty. The plate here
given shows its fine form, size, and delicate col-
our, but the picture that this Rose makes in the
garden is wonderful. Although an old Rose,
it is evidently scarcely known in gardens, but it
deserves to be brought from comparative ob-
scurity. In the " Rose Garden," Mr. W. Paul
says that the Musk Rose is supposed to have
been introduced into England about 300 years
ago, and the scent of its flowers was thought to
somewhat resemble that of Musk. The plant is
described as being of rambling habit, producing
its flowers in large clusters late in summer.
Under this as being the type are enumerated
several varieties, one of them being named nivea
and thus described : " Flowers white, shaded
with rose, large and single, form cupped, growth
robust. " This is quite in accordance with the
character of the Rose here figured, and as the
plants came to us under the name of moschata
nivea, this no doubt is its correct name ; but as
to its origin or history I can give no informa-
tion at all. The important point of all, how-
ever, is its value as a garden Rose, and
there will be few to compare with or equal it
for covering a fence, making a hedge, or to

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon at
Gruvetye Manor, Sussex. Lithographed and printed
by Guillaume Bevereyns.

■*s r<^

Jaxuauy 2(5, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

G3

ramble in perfect liberty over some low-growing
tree. It appears to be thoroughly hardy, the
fence it clothes being open and fully exposed,
and the growth is vigorous, although the plants
are in poor, stiff soil. It has only one season of
bloom, and I have never noticed the slightest
tendency to secondary flowers in autumn, but
it comes in welcome succession to the early
Roses, being usually at its best during the
middle and latter half of July, and lasting alto-
gether about six weeks. The trusses of bloom
are enormous, many of them having from thirty
to forty buds and flowers in a cluster, and every
one comes to perfection, whilst from six to ten
flowers may often be seen fully open in one
truss. The buds are of a lovely pink colour,
and there are exquisite shadings of pink in the
flower when first expanded, with a cushion of
the richest yellow anthers in the centre, much
brighter and more beautiful than they appear
in the plate, retaining their colour for a long
time, and adding considerably to the effect.
The leafage, of a glaucous or grey-green
colour, is abundant, making a soft and pretty
foil to the flowers, which have a powerful
and delicious fragrance. The great trusses
that crown the strong shoots when cut con-
tinue to open their buds for several days.

A. fl.

The Week's work

FRUIT HOUSES.

PlGS in tots. — Figs, if the fruit is required in
March or April, are often grown in pots. Under
such treatment they give a good return and are
forced more readily than trees planted out. There
is also less dropping of fruit, and even small trees
bear freely. I have for years grown Figs for
early use, and it is surprising how the varieties
differ as regards setting a first crop. Such well-
known kinds as Osborn's Forcing or Brown
Turkey, the White or Black Ischias, and Early
Violet are reliable, but even these are inferior a?
regards cropping if ripe fruits are wanted in
March. For later use, say the end of April or
May, few varieties can excel Brown Turkey. 1
have seen Negro Largo recommended for early
forcing, but I have never got what may be termed
a fair crop. For late supplies it is the reverse, as
with care this variety may be had later than most
others. I admit it is more suitable for pot culture
than any other mode of growth, and if grown as
large bushes or in a small space it is a grand
cropper. The most reliable Figs for very early
supplies are the newer St. John and Pingo de
Mel, which carry a heavy first crop and may be
hard forced with less fear of the fruit dropping. I
gathered the St. John early in March last year and
of fair quality, small trees in 10 inch pots fruiting
freely. Of course, to get fruit at the time named,
the trees at this date will be maturing their fruit
and will need encouragement in the way of ma-
nures and, if possible, some extra warmth at the
roots. This latter, unless provided by hot-water
pipes and the pots plunged, may be given with
leaves and manure, and if the warmth is supplied
by fermenting materials the heat should be of a
steady nature. The plants should be close to the
glass, and with fruits in what may be termed the
stationary stage or forming the seeds previous to
the final swelling, it is well to prevent a check of
any kind. Give tepid liquid manure and also a
surface-dressing of some good fertiliser. The
roots of vigorous plants will push out into the
warm bed, this assisting in finishing the fruits.
More attention must be paid to moisture over-
head, as if the house is at all moist less
syringing will suffice. Excess will cause rust,
this disfiguring the fruit and foliage and stopping
swelling. Syringing overhead as the fruits ap-
proach the final swelling should cease, and even
in the case of those less advanced the foliage

should be dry by sunset. Stopping the new
shoots is important with these early fruiting trees,
as if allowed free growth the first fruits will cease
to swell. The young shoots of this season's growth
should now be stopped when (i inches or 8 inches
long, and all root or sucker growth removed as
early as possible. The temperature for fruiting
plants in pots may be 6o° or 70° by day, allowing
the thermometer to run up freely with sun heat,
with 60° at night or 65° in mild weather. Plants
struck last year and in small pots should not be
kept back, as such potted on now into 10-inch
pots will make nice stuff for forcing next year.
Pot firmly and give ample drainage. Use good
turfy or rough loam, a small quantity of bone
meal and mortar rubble, and leave plenty of
space on the surface for watering and mulching.
Avoid crowding the leading shoots, and if possible
train the plants to a single stem, stopping the
shoots before a long growth is made to get well-
balanced heads.

Succession Fios planted out. — The trees if
started early this month will now be on the move
and the fruit pushing out freely. A mulch of
warm litter and leaves mixed does much good, as
it maintains a genial moist temperature and in-
duces a strong growth. Light and sunshine are
important details, as, given these, good fruit in
quantity is produced. I name these, as often the
wood of trained trees is much crowded, and if
not well ripened when started into growth at this
season, it dies back. At this date any weakly
branches should be removed, and the others
regulated before growth is far advanced. Syring-
ing several times daily with tepid water will
assist the wood and buds to swell, and a night
temperature of 50° may now be given, allowing a
rise of 10° by day. Figs are often planted on the
back walls of vineries, but in such a position good
fruit cannot be expected ; indeed, fruit of any
kind is out of the question. The trees in this
house should be treated in the same way as re-
gards stopping, as advised for the earlier pot plants.
It may perhaps be necessary to allow a little more
freedom of growth in the laterals. The first crop
of fruit is mostly produced near the points of the
shoots; whereas the second crop is produced from
the axils of the leaves on this year's growth. To
obtain the latter it is necessary to stop when
about 8 inches long, and the break or growth
from these shoots will form next year's fruiting
wood. As the trees planted out frequently grow
too freely, it is necessary to remove some shoots
entirely ; I prefer doing this when young to leaving
them until the knife must be used. It is an easy
matter to rub off useless or weak shoots as they
appear. As growth increases, more water at the
roots will be necessary. I do not advise mulching
till the first fruits are well advanced. If given at
that stage it will assist both the first and later
crops.

Fig trees not forced. — Many grow Figs in cool
houses and get a splendid crop, with, of course, no
second crop. Such trees may now receive atten-
tion and the necessary pruning. I have seen Figs
a mass of shoots and leaves fruit but sparingly.
This is the result of crowding the wood and
allowing a free root-run. Both these may now be
prevented by removing the useless or long naked
branches and giving the shoots more room to
develop. Barren trees should be root-pruned
and new soil given the roots. In giving new soil
make it as firm as possible, and thoroughly saturate
the old border if at all dry before making it up.

The one hard house. — Where a house is de-
voted to mixed fruits much depends upon the
grower's requirements as to starting the trees.
The orchard house, if heated— which is a great
gain— may be often used for such plants as Chry-
santhemums ; but these should not be allowed to
remain in the house after the middle of the month,
as a thorough cleansing is necessary, more eo
where plants which are infested with mildew are
housed. All potting should have been done ere
this, but in case there has been delay or new trees
purchased, no time should be lost in getting the
work done. Such trees should not be forced, but
be brought on slowly. The trees, if prepared in

the autumn, will at this date need little pruning
of any kind, the best results being obtained from
those kept stopped during growth, cutting away
the useless wood when potting. Before housing,
the drainage should be examined where re-potting
was not necessary in the autumn ; and should
worms have closed the drainage, the evil must be
remedied at once. Should clear strong lime water
fail to reich them, I would not hesitate to turn tli ■
plants carefully out of the pots, replacing without
disturbing the ball of roots. After housing, free
ventilation should be given for a time, occasion-
ally damping over early in the day in fine bright
we ither and again at closing time. " These remarks
apply to such as Cherries, Peaches, or Nectarines.
As the trees will be in bloom in about six weeks, it
is well to fumigate twice or thricq before thi
flowers open to destroy greenfly. If the house is
heated, a little heat turned on while the trees are
in bloom will be of great advantage. If such
as Pears or Plums in pots are brought forward in
this house they should be brought in before- the
first trees are in bloom, placed at the cool end, and
treated as advised for the earlier trees.

G. WvTHES.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Fobcing Asparagus. — Where home-grown root3
are depended on, a sufficient quantity to meet the
demand may be lifted at regular intervals. In
view of frost, it is also a good plan to store a
good number of roots in a cool shed or outhouse,
and cover with (i inches of leaf mould or line soil.
Where a spare Cucumber or Melon pit efficiently
heated exists, no better place can be selected tor
bringing on a batch or two. Beds also formed of
leaves, or leaves and short litter, some 4 feet
high at the back and gradually receding towards
the front, may be built up for the accommodation
of frames. The surface should be covered with
- inches of rough leaf mould, the roots laid on very
thickly together, and finally covered with 4 inches
of the same material. No water will be needed at
first, and the frames may be matted and thickly
covered with litter or bracken, this inducing a
quicker growth. As soon as the grass appears,
light and air must be admitted in order to pro-
duce both colour and flavour. Half-exhausted
permanent beds may be lifted piecemeal and
forced, a new one being made in its place. In
forcing Asparagus nothing need be wasted, as the
finer grass may be used in soups. In some largo
establishments permanent forcing beds exist.
These are surrounded with deep brick cavities,
and pigeon-holed similarly to old-fashioned Pine
and Melon pits. Fermenting material is thrown
into these and well trodden, the tops of the beds
also being covered with the same material. By
having three such beds, each is forced one year
and rested two. When in active growth, forced
Asparagus is much benefited by one or two
applications of liquid manure.

Rhubarb. — Apples being unusually scarce this
year, the earliest batches of Rhubarb brought on
in the Mushroom house will soon become exhausted.
Presuming that a second batch of roots was in-
troduced at Christmas, the supply may be kept
up by putting a few roots in a warm cellar or
similar place, to come on very gradually. The
general covering on outdoor beds may now be
given, first placing the pots over the crowns,
afterwards filling in the intervening spaces with
good sound leaves, and allowing a foot or so of
covering on the top. The use of hot stable manure
is dangerous, as it forces growth unduly and
ruins the crowns for future years. If there are a
few spare pots they may be stood over odd crowns ;
this will bring them on a week or ten days in ad-
vance of the uncovered roots. The present is a
good time to prepare a plot for a new bed, and as
Rhubarb must have a good larder, plenty of rich
manure should be incorporated in process of
trenching. If early sorts are to be planted, the
old Prince Albert and Reading Ruby may well be
included, the former sort forcing more quickly
than most others, Myatt's, Liiina>us and the

04

THE GARDEN.

[January 26, 1895.

common Victoria following each other later in the
season.

Mushrooms.— These will now be in great de-
mand. As sharp weather necessitates increased
fire-heat care must be taken that the surface of
the beds does not become too dry. Rather than
allow this, cover with a good thickness of dry oat
straw. Hay is unsuitable, as it is apt to get
mouldy and makes the beds colder. Covering the
beds at all times, even in well-heated structures,
is profitable, as it lessens the need for syringing —
a fertile source of decay and discoloration amongst
the young offsets. In gathering always remove
the entire stem, as leaving a portion in the soil
causes rot to spread. Partly exhausted beds may
be well moistened with salt water of moderate
strength at a temperature of 90° and then be
covered with litter, as advised above. The pre-
sent time is opportune for making up a good-
sized bed for coming into bearing at the end of
March and throughout April. If there is no
room in the Mushroom house proper, a warm cellar
or snug, well-sheltered outhouse with good thick
walls will answer. The bed should be of extra
thickness, 2 feet being none too much, and an
extra thick covering must be given. Such beds
will often remain inactive for a considerable time,
and spring into fertility with longer days and in-
creased sun heat. In firing, rather allow for a
slight fall in the temperature than overheat the
pipes, as if the beds are in good heart, Mush-
rooms will appear even if a little later, and they
will remain productive over their normal time.

Seakale. — Where a good breadth of crowns in
the open beds was not covered with bracken or
litter before the frost came, difficulty will have
been experienced in getting the roots out of the
ground. Not only should protection be given by
the end of November at least, but an occasional
batch of crowns should be lifted and bedded in
the root shed for convenience. In the space de-
voted to Seakale in the Mushroom house it is a
good plan to have three divisions, so that when a
batch is cut for the table it can immediately be
replaced, another lot being almost ready for the
knife, and a third just on the move. Rather than
allow the Kale — when ready to remain in the
warmth —to become drawn and watery, cut it and
remove it to a cool, not too cold place, and
stand it in a pan or shallow basket containing
damp moss. This is far better than water for
keeping both Seakale and French Beans. Save
all good, sound, thong roots, cutting them into
6-inch lengths, and embedding them in sharp soil
to callus.

Preparing for early Potatoes. — On light
workable soils and in fairly warm situations,
heltered borders may now be got ready for the
earliest Potatoes. I do not advise the use of solid
spit manure, as, independent of its tendency to in-
duce more haulm than tubers, it becomes satu-
rated, and by keeping the soil in the vicinity of
the roots and tubers cold hinders early and rapid
growth. If these borders were manured and
cropped last summer with some fairly impoverish-
ing vegetable, no further stimulant will be
needed for these short-topped early Potatoes, but
it is a good plan to dig in a fair quantity of leafy
hotbed refuse — the sweepings of pleasure ground
walks, wood ashes, and similar opening materials
previously well mixed, these acting as a filter and
increasing root warmth. In cases where the soil
is at all retentive, digging is best postponed till a
week before actual planting, as by opening the
surface wet ground becomes wetter, and the crop
suffers proportionately.

Carrot ground. — The preparation of the
ground for all first sowings must be pushed
forward vigorously whenever weather permits.
Carrots prefer a rooting medium the reverse of
rich. The lightest, deepest plots should be se-
lected, except for the shortest Horn section,
which will do equally well on a shallower soil.
Quarters from which Coleworts and Brussels
Sprouts have been cleared should be bastard
trenched if two years have elapsed since this was
done. It tends further to sweeten and pulverise

the soil, as well as to kill grubs if the top is left
in a ridged form instead of being levelled down.
In March the advantage of this will be seen by
the soil breaking down freely. Gaslime may yet
be dug in in moderation where wireworm is
troublesome, a sprinkling also of soot and wood
ashes being most beneficial. Where the soil is
not quite so open and free as could be desired,
leafy refuse from spent hotbeds may be worked
in as a corrective, such soils when cropped with
roots being best manured with some artificial com-
position sown broadcast in spring. A little shel-
tered corner should also be prepared for sowing a
bed of the earliest Short Horn kinds in March.

Cauliflower plants. — Plants in handlights
should now be examined, as, generally speaking,
the first signs of buttoning can by now be
discerned. Where such is the case the plants
had better be pulled up and thrown away, the
soil being well stirred with a small handfork
and the tops placed on. This will allow the
surface soil to dry nicely for another batch
from frames in February. Plants in pits and
frames must also be looked over and all bolting
batches pulled up. Wood ashes may be freely
distributed amongst Lettuce plants where damp
or rot is prevalent and a little dry lime added if
slugs are troublesome.

Salading. — In no department is regularity more
necessary than in work amongst salads, that is if
blanks are to be avoided. If Endive in pits and
frames in a sufficiently blanched state is not forth-
coming, remove a few dozen heads to the Mushroom
house, where a few days will make a marked
difference in it. Although Endive must be well
protected in sharp weather, abundance of air and
complete exposure on sunny days must be the
rule, or sad havoc will be made by damp. Small
lots of Chicory muse be regularly got into warmth
and sowings of small salading made every ten days.

J. Crawford.

GARDEN SKETCHES.

Chapter VII.

" There are days which occur at almost any season
( )f the year, wherein the world reaches its per-
fection ,
When the air, tiie heavenly bodies, and the earth

make
A harmeiiyasif Nature would indulge her off-
spring."— Emerson.

June 6. — It is the hour of sunset. Peace rests
upon the hills and slumbers in the valley.
Through the stillness comes the rise and fall,
the murmur of the last fringed wave that breaks
upon the tranquil shore, while from the dis-
tant meadows is heard the call of the Rail. The
day has been one of gentle showers, and now
the air is warm and fragrant as the last rain-
drops melt away. Overhead the clouds are
breaking. The thin pearly mist that is rising
from the valley has so caught the sun's last
rays where the clouds have parted in the
western sky, that it seems like a rose veil cast
over the mountain-side and across the undulat-
ing woods with their shadowy distances. The
evening has reached the perfection of "leafy
June," for the parching drought is ended, and
all Nature is revelling in the longed-for mois-
ture. During the past three months there
have been cloudless skies and hot sunshine day
alter day, that have turned spring into summer
and hurried the flowers into bloom long before
their wonted time, for in all these months there
have been only two or three days which brought
with them reviving showers. To-day the tide
of bloom seems at its height. It is the time of
Poppies, and how supreme is their reign,
making each spot to glow with their fiery
presence. As they flutter in the morning
breeze and the sun's rays come aslant, through
their shining petals, is there any flower more
radiant to behold than these flaming Eastern

Poppies ! And when we gaze within, how beau-
tiful are the deep blotches, the dark eyes that
look up at us from their crimson depth ! How
lovely, too, are the soft anthers, shedding their
blue-grey dust over the velvety striped capsules.
Grown in a mass, these Poppies are so dazzling
to the eye, that they need some restful blos-
soms by their side, and these are found to-day
in the cool blue-lavender of the Dalmatian
Irises and in the lovely white Pseonies that
have fallen among them. The rock garden has
eagerly drunk in the moisture, and now at the
end of a year all trace of planting is nearly
gone. The flowers are spreading as they will,
and flowing into each other with the prettiest
effect. Each week brings surprises of its own
as new flowers open and meet, and produce soft
harmonies and symphonies of colour. One may
arrange flowers as they will, but Nature' has a
subtle touch, a magic wand, which changes
them to "the unexpected," so that there is
always a charming uncertainty in what fresh
beauty the day will bring forth. Over many of
the rocks the Cheddar Pink (Dianthus ciesius)
and other single kinds are now trailing. The
Cheddar Pink is simply a cushion of rosy
bloom, delightfully fragrant. Other dainty
blossoms look like the finest white lace, so deli-
cately are they fringed. These Pinks often
perish in a border, while between two pieces of
rock over which they can toss they will survive
from year to year. The beautiful grey foliage
and crimson stems of Rosa rubra, with little dots
of pink (the small clustered bloom) scattered here
and there, are fair to see, while Love in a Mist
sits beneath, at play among the branches and
peeps forth with misty blue eyes from among
the grey and pink and crimson sprays. Behind
the Rose tree, but higher on the bank, are tall
spikes of Ornithogalum pyramidale, very pretty
in their starry height. The defect of this plant
is the withering of its leafage before the blossoms
are expanded. A plant of the variegated
Hemerocallis Kwanso being immediately in
front of it, has in this instance concealed the
decaying foliage. Lithospermum prostratum is
making its new growth, so I have just top-
dressed it with peaty soil into which the stems
are pegged down, as in this way the size of the
clump is readily increased. Lime in the soil
being most distasteful to this ' ' bit of true
blue," it will only flourish where it is absent, in
fibrous loam and peat. A colony of Echeveria
glauca on a ledge of flat ground close by is noiv
in fine bloom, having passed through the winter
unharmed. Androsace lanuginosa, planted in
full sunshine in a deep fissure, is making good
giowth. It is wonderful what drought these
moisture-loving alpines will bear if only they
have depth of soil in which to press downwards
through the chink of a rock. In the more
shaded and damper side of the rock garden a
deep crimson Mimulus is surfacing the ground
next the great bronzy leaves of the Japan
Saxifrage (Rodgersia podophylla) whose white
wands of blossom wave aloft. Then comes a
cool patch like the blue sky itself, the perennial
or summer Forget-me-not, with ? lush green in
its creeping stems, that suggests the verge of a
streamlet bank. Yonder is the glowing Mimulus
with its dazzling Vermillion bloom flung over a
low projecting rock, behind which its moisture-
seeking roots are safe from the mid-day heat.
Besides this most brilliant of blossoms, the
deep purple Campanula Portenschlagiaua is
very luxuriant with its long trails of bloom
hanging over the stones that keep the ground of
even temperature. Saxifraga peltata is in its
glossy bright green stage, stretching out its
leaves above the white Flax that is now a sheet
of blossom. The various Thymes are spreading

January 26, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

H5

into S"ft cushions that cover the drier portions of
the rockwork. The silver-leaved Thyme, with
its pale lilac dowers, is growing by the walk ami
ptessing up against the rock, of which in the
distance it seems part, having very much the
same hue. In the same manner the red-purple
Thyme (Thymus serpyllum coccineus) is lying
against a rock of deeper stain, while the soit,
woolly Thyme (lanuginosus) is rambling over a
flat surface. The golden-leaved Thyme should
be grown for its aromatic perfume, and its
bright and cheerful aspect in winter when the
other kinds become dim.

June 20. — The sea is asleep this evening.
Even the reflection of the far purple headland
lies shadowed in the tide. The day has been
one of exhausting heat to plant as well as
human life, and now one passes along the shore
to catch the cooler evening air as the water
gently lips the yellow sand. The sun's slant
rays have cast a rose light across the sea, save
where changful currents beneath make silvery
lines. Slowly a white-plumed seagull wings its
homeward way with the sunlight on its breast,
while overhead the Swift screams wildly as it
cleaves the sky. Refreshed by the cooler air
we can now visit the flowers in the pleasant
twilight, for there is no real night, no darkness
between the sunsst and the dawn, for ever
toward the north the sky is bright and clear,
with token that the sun, not far beneath, is
hastening on his way toiise again in splendour.
The noble Calif ornian bush Poppy (Romneya
Ooulteii) has just opened its first Bower, a milk-
white blossom with a boss of golden stamens in
the centre. It is against a sunny wall with peat
and leaf-mould at its root, and given a copious
watering from time to time. The old stems of
last year were cut entirely away as soon as the
young growth was a few inches high, and the
weakest were later on thinned out, so that all
left are now strong and full of flower-buds. In
the walled garden the old Stocks and Wall-
flowers have just been thrown out and replaced
by seedlings sown last April. Shady weather
is always best for such transplanting, but as no
clouds are vouchsafed to us and the work can-
not be longer delayed, branches of evergreens
have been stuck all through the beds, which give
shelter from the burning sun, and when watered
all over in the evening retain the moisture in a
wonderful manner, and once rain comes they
will be ready to rush forward. The replanting
of the Daffodils has taken up a good deal of
time. After two years they had grown so thick,
it was necessary to lift and divide them, and
this division has so increased their number,
that I have now a good border of Emperor and
Empress, Sir Watkin and N. Horstieldi. The
soil was deeply dug and the Daffodils given back
again to their mother earth — for, after all, is not
a child safest in the nursing care of its own
mother ?— and our keeping of them must be ever
that of a foster- parent. Then the beds of the
incomparabilis section and the seedlings had
also to be lifted and divided until there was no
more room for planting, and some had to be
given homes under the trees. In the fountain
garden the white Martagon Lilies among the
red-leaved Lobelias are tall and fair, but fairest
of all in the evening hours when the sunbeams
shine through their stainless petals, and they
seem aglow in the misty light. While English
Irises are in flower among the Roses, replacing
the now slumbering white Daffodils, white
Violas are spreading over the verge.

The Bamboos have made early and rapid
growth, some of the new shoots being 12 feet
high. No doubt a good soaking of water from
the hose every week has supplied their need,
which seems a moist root-run beneath and ho;

sun overhead. The best time for transplanting
appears to be just as the new growth begins to
push up. One I moved about six weeks ago
never felt the least check, and one could per-
ceive its visible growth from day to day. To
have the ground beneath shaded with low grow-
ing shrubs, or even large Ferns, is a vast help to
their well-being, as it prevents parching of the
soil, keep ng it cool in summer and warm in
winter. Good-sized rocks that the roots can
run under will have the same effect, but are not
always to be had, or may be unsuitable to the
position of the Bamboos. Their feathery wands
are certaiuly most graceful, and, moving gently
in the summer breeze, give a delightful sense of
coolness. No doubt they will be more largely
used when better known, as they are one of the
most beautiful additions that has been intro-
duced of late years into our gardens, alike
pleasing to the eye in winter as in summer.

On the Periwinkle bank the soft golden
blossom of the St. John's Wort (Hypericum
calycinumi is now replacing the blue of the
Vii.cas, and Creeping Jenny (Lysiuiachia num-
mularia) is trailing down under the old
Laurel. A very pretty grouping in the rock
garden is made by the lovely blue of Mertensia
sibirica and the indescribable hue of Stimulus
glutinosus. The fresh blooms of the latter open
almost red, and pass through paler shades till
they fade into faint orange or sunset glow of
amber. A mass of their flowers seen together
in all their different tints, with the sunshine at
play among them, is a morning glory ; but now,
in the still hours of evening, they have a beauty
all their own beside the cool Mertensia in its
blue and silver robe. L. A. L.

(To be continued.)

Cupressus nutkaensis lutea. — This is a
remarkably distinct form of what in gardens is
better known under the older name of Thujopsis
borealis. The type as a town or suburban shrub
is one of the most reliable. Of this I know of an ex-
ample fully 20 feet in height, the position an ex-
posed one. The variety now noted possesses all
the good qualities of the type. Whilst taking into
consideration its bright yellow tints in a young
state, it should prove a most valuable plant, dis
tinctin every way from both the golden forms of C.
Lawsoniana and of Retinospora obtusa aurea. — G.

Books.

THE LIFE AND CORRESPONDENCE OF
WILLIAM BUCKLAND.*

The place of geology in science is now so firmly
established, that it is difficult to understand the
almost savage antagonism with which its pro-
fessors were greeted at the beginning of the pre-
sent century. We welcome this book. Dean
Buckland is certainly one of the most interesting
personalities in tlie field of natural science that
the present century has produced — one who, in the
words of Professor Boyd Daw kins, " brought
about a revival of natural science analogous to the
movement in religious thought brought about by
Newman and the Oriel school." But what will
probably recommend the subject of this memoir
most to readers of the book is the kindly,
humorous, truth-loving, lovable nature which is
theie displayed. Buckland was an enthusiast for
his science, and he had in a remarkable degree the
knack of communicating his enthusiasm to others
in a day when the votaries of this science were

looked upon as scarcely sane. Geology he re-
garded as the handmaid of religion and as holding;
the keys of one of the kingdoms of Nature. How
he went about his geological researches and of the
influence he exercised over the minds of his
generation let Mrs. Gordon tell. The book abounds
with bright and humorous anecdotes, and there is
not a dull page from cover to cover.

PRACTICAL FORESTRY.'

Ln- general get-up this resembles Dr. Schlich's book
on the same subject, and this, taken in connection
with something in the preface, caused one to turn
instinctively to Dr. Schlich's volume, at which a
ten minutes' cursory glance showed that the re-
semblance did not end with the outside — although
readers are clearly expected to believe that the
author of "Practical Forestry" is indebted to
nobody but himself. Two societies arc conspicu-
ously thanked " for the privilege of allowing the
author to make extracts from several of his own
prize essays." Not a word of acknowledgment
to anyone else. No one, I believe, has attempted
to deal with the subject of forestry in a general
way without having to acknowledge assistance,
and the following parallel columns show how far
Mr. Webster's book is free from obligations of
that kind : —

* " The Life and Correspondence of William buck-
land, D.D., F.R.S., sometime Dean of Westminster,

twice President of the Geological Societyand first Pre-
sident of the British Association." By his Daughter
(Mrs. Gordon). John Murray, Albemarle Street.

" Wkbstfr's Practical

FoRtsTRY."

Thin <>' i"! I'i'i "tot >"i>x.

1. At whatage should thin-
ning be c« mmenced '

2 & 4. To what extent
stould thinning be engaged
in ? What trees should be
removed '!

3. What time should elapse
between eactj thinning ?

No thinning of young trees
should take place until a
c« inplrte leaf canopy has been
establi hed, and it is most
important for the welfare of
the plantation thit a com-
plete overhead foliage cover-
ing be brought about at as
caily a date as possible after
planting.

At a short period after a
complete leaf canopy has bet u
esta liched, the individual
trees begin to press against
each o'her, and later on a
struggle for existence com-
mences, 'he stronger speci-
mens gaining the bupremacy
over the weaker.

Hard-wood'd trees require
proportion • tely more space
for development than coni-
fers, > nd ti.e a nual rings in
the timb r of the latter
should be narrow in propor-
tion to those of the former,
good quality of hard-wooded
timber being indicated by
broad annual rings, but with
c nifer. us wood the reverse
is th-s case.

'Schlich's Manual of
Forestry."

71,,

"niir.

1. At what age of a woot
ehould thinning commence ?

2. To what trees should
they extend ? How heavy
should the thinnings be V

3. After what interval*
should the v be repeated ?

One of the most important
objects in the formation of a
wood is to Btock the area
sufficiently, so that a com-
plete cover overhead may lie
established as early as prs-
sible. This is desirable for a
pr p r development of the
trtes. In order to ecsujc
quick closing overhead it is
necessary to bring on to 1 he
ground a much larger num-
ntr of plants than can find
room for any prolonged pe
riod.

Soon after a complete leaf
canopy has been established
the trees commence pressing
one against the other, there
is not en- ugh growiog space
for all, and then a struggle for
existence sets iu. A portion of
the trees outgrow the rest
and they rear their beads up
to the full enjoyment of the
light, &c.

In tie case of those broad-
leaved * pedes which have the
pores in tte spring portion of
the wood, broad rings indi-
cate high quality, and narrow
rings low quality ; here heavy
thinnings are i dicated. ln
conifers, however, the matter
is exactly the reverse.

Neither your space nor my time permits, at pre-
sent, of further search for examples like the above ;
but those acquainted with its author's former
writings know how long it is since he began to
imbibe Continental principles in forestry, and this
last production of his pen may be said to have
reached the saturation point. The above extracts
from Dr. Schlich are peculiarly his own, and are, I
believe, to be found nowhere else ; and the
parallels from Mr. Webster's book are all to be
found within the compass of two or three pages of
his chapter on thinning — perhaps the most im-
portant in the book. In both cases I have slightly
abridged the quotations, but not in any way
affected the sense or comparison. I am tempted
to compare also Mr. Webster's opening chapter

* " Practical Forestry." By A. D. Webster. Second
edit on. Win. Kider aod Son.

or,

THE GARDEN.

[January 26, 18S5.

on pruning with Dr. Schlich's on the same subject.
Sutlice it to .';iy that the chapters on pruning in
both books are marvels of unanimity.

Mr. Webster has embodied in the book some
drawings that were originally contributed to The
Garden by Sir Herbert Maxwell in lsTli, and has
transferred them (very indely engraved by some
inferior process) to his own pages without any
acknowledgment of their origin. J. S. W.

ARRANGING CUT FLOWERS.

In the engraving here given, Fuchsias, Passion
Flowers, Coleuses, and Maiden-hair Ferns are
used with good effect, because eacli is set out in
a bold and informal way. The Fuchsia is a
delightful flower for cutting, when its graceful
trusses of bloom are well arranged and not
hidden with other things. The flowering
shoots bend over gracefully, and the dark-
leaved Coleus is in bold contrast, whilst the
Passion Flower at the base is shown to advan-
tage. The aim in all forms of decoration such
as this should be to create an informal and
graceful effect, which is not done by cramming
the flowers together in a way to deprive them
of light and shade, and hide their individual
beauty.

Colour in Ivies. — The variegated Ivies lose
their beauty and become unattractive if not
favoured with plenty of light and a maximum of
sun. I have a high wall which viewed from one
aspect was deemed unsightly. Eventually the
wall was covered with a choice assortment of
golden and silver Ivies. For a few years the
colours remained fairly true, but suddenly the
majority of them assumed an ordinary greenish
tinge, and although serving the purpose of a
screen to the bricks and mortar, have now quite
lost their attractiveness. — J. C.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

FRUIT PROSPECTS FOR 1805.

The very dull, sunless season of last year, more
especially during the autumn, caused many fruit
growers some anxiety as to the proper ripening
of the wood, and also whether the buds would
be properly developed. Present appearances
indicate that no trouble need be anticipated on
those points, as fruit trees of all descriptions are
full of promise, and unless we have an extremely
unfavourable season, good crops of fruit should
be the rule this year. I think the copious rain-
fall since September last, combined with the
very mild weather, has been a great boon to
fruit growers, as the buds swelled up to a large
size very late in the autumn. A few varieties of
Apples, including about one hundred Cox's
Orange Pippin, had very small buds early in
October, but by the end of the year they had
attained the normal size. The same also applies
to a few sorts of Pears, but which are now all
that could be desired. A feature amongst
Apples and Pears that have always been very
shy bloomers is that this year they are covered
with bold fruit buds, and out of a very large
collection every tree of all varieties has plenty
of fruit buds. Many of these trees last year had
heavy crops of fruit, and I believe that the
promise to repeat the same this season arises
from being supplied with ample food, thus pre-
venting any exhaustion in perfecting the fruit.
Plums of all sorts, both on walls and in the
open, are more thickly studded with bloom buds
than I ever saw them. Angelina Burdett and
Reine Claude de Bavay are covered with buds

this year, this having never happened here be-
fore. Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines are all
full of promise, with apparently well ripened
wood, on which are fine, bold buds. Cherries,
again, both sweet and Morello, look remarkably
well. Nearly all the gardens that I have visited
this winter have equally as good a prospect as
we have, and Nature having done so much to-
wards a bountiful fruit year, we on our part
should do all we can to aid her efforts. I think
if the question were asked, Do we assist Nature,
collectively, as much as we ought to do in fruit-
growing i the answer in many instances would be
in the negative. In the first place, we might

aphis are in more or less evidence in all the gar-
dens 1 have seen, and in some gardens the attack
will be very violent. If this scourge can be re-
duced early, we not only do much towards en-
suring a crop, but also save anxiety and worry.
Unfortunately, I have yet to find a safe insecti-
cide that will destroy the eggs of the winter
moth, but the two other foes named can in a
great measure be rendered incapable in the egg
stage by an application of 1 lb. of crude potash
and 1 lb. of caustic soda dissolved in ten gallons
of hot water and applied warm to the trees in a
fine spray. If this solution is put on at the
end of February, moistening every part of the

Cut Fuchsias, Coleus, and Passion Flowers.

with great advantage to the trees and ourselves
do infinitely more towards the prevention
of insect attacks. As I mentioned in The
Garden last year, we commence too late in the
spring to deal with these foes successfully. For
a number of years I began spraying the trees in
March, but for the past two years I have per-
formed that operation at the end of February,
with the most gratifying results, and as a proof
of its value 1 may state that on about 1000
Plum trees last year we had neither aphis nor
other insect pests all through the year. This
spring we may expect plenty of these enemies.
The eggs of the winter moth (Psylla mali) and

trees, it will thoroughly cleanse them, and vast
quantities of eggs will fail to hatch.

The extra manuring of trees that are likely
to bloom abundantly is a great aid and will
cause trees to set heavy crops ; whereas if not
thus treated liberally the strain of producing
such a mass of flowers would in many cases be
so exhausting that a failure might be expected.
Where a comparatively small number of dwarf
and wall trees is grown, the thinning of the
fruit-buds exercises a wonderful influence, not
only on the setting of the fruit, but also on the
swelling and size of the same. When I first
took charge here there were some Marie Louise,

Janoaby 26, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

67

Louise Bonne of Jersey and Beurre Hardy Pear
trees that always bloomed most profusely, but
failed to set any fruit. By removing two-thirds
of the fruit buds I have succeeded in obtaining
good crops of fruit annually ever since, proving
that the efforts of production were beyond
the strength of the trees. W. G. C.

Pear Barorme de Mello.— Until this season
I have never had an opportunity of tasting this
Pear, although several correspondents have spoken
well of it in the pages of The Garden. My tree
of this variety is grown as an espalier, and in
former years the fruit, though plentifully produced,
was always cracked and deformed. The great
heat of 1893, however, ripened the wood, and
this season the fruit was not only passable in
appearance — being not unlike Beurre de Capiau-
mont, with its russetty skin — but the flavour was
really good. One of the best points about this
Pear is its long-keeping qualities. In midland and
northern districts it no doubt requires a wall, and
it deserves it even in the south, as good keeping
Pears of high quality are none too plentiful.
— J. C, Coddiiiylon Hall, Newark.

American uersus English Apples. — A short
time ago a large importer of American Apples
sent me a hamper of carefully selected fruits, also
some from the Dominion, asking my opinion of
them as compared with English fruit. One
Apple of each popular variety was tent, and so
far as appearance wentthoy were all that could be
desired, but with the exception of Newtown Pip-
pin the flavour was decidedly inferior to good
English Apples. In justice to Newtown Pippin
it must be stated that it was of excellent quality,
only slightly behind Cox's Orange, Ribston Pip-
pin, and one or two other highly flavoured varie-
ties grown in this country. In spite of its excel-
lence, however, the sender stated in his letter
that annually the demand declined for it, as the
appearance is not so striking as that of Northern
Spy, Baldwin, and others with a rich colour,
but of poorer quality. Another noticeable fea-
ture was the great superiority of the Canadian
Apples over those from the States, particularly in
the crispness and greater quantity of juice. On
other occasions I have received similar specimens,
which only confirm me in the opinion that even
in bad seasons our English Apples are superior to
any in the world when well grown, and it is
greatly to our discredit that such immense im-
ports of admittedly inferior Apples reach this
country. The Australian and Continental con-
signments are at present comparatively small,
but likely to be increased in the near future
unless our home growers not only improve
existing orchards, but also extend or form new
ones on the best and most approved lines. Un-
fortunately, Cox's Orange Pippin will not suc-
ceed everywhere, but where it does well it ought
to be extensively planted, as it is always in de-
mand. The lowest price I ever got for this
variety was 30s. per cwt., and this winter the
grower could have quoted his own price for good
samples. Several fruiterers and others wrote me
they Mould pay any price in reason for it, thus
testifying in the strongest manner to its su-
periority over all others, whether American or
otherwise. — W. G. C.

Paradise v. Crab. — Until we shall have
learned how to work up quickly a healthy young
stock of our best Apples on their own roots the
question of suitable stocks will be ever with us.
A side light on this question which may be
familiar to many, but which, 1 confess, was new
to me, came out in a chat with a nurseryman a
short time ago. While looking round the nursery,
which is fairly large and representative, I hap-
pened to ask why it was that so few of the young
Apple trees were worked on the Paradise and so
few of the Pears on the Quince '! The answer I
got was that it was simply a question of £ s. d.,
and I was taken to a plot where trees worked on
the Crab and the same varieties worked on the
Paradise at the same time were growing side by

side. The difference in appearance was very
striking. Those worked on the Crab were quite
handsome specimens, which any buyer, who knew
nothing of stock influences, would be sure to
select, the others being mere pigmies in compari-
son. The great majority of buyers, who came to
see before purchasing, selected the trees which
looked strongest, and as these were the most
easily and most quickly grown, the nurseryman's
business being to sell) the other trees were not
pushed. Whether this policy pays best in the
end or not is a question for the salesman to de-
cide, but it must be a source of dissatisfaction
to the buyer, who generally wants to see his trees
fruiting soon after they are planted and not wait
year after year anxiously watching for fruit until
the trees reach orchard size or, as is more likely,
ignorantly hacking at them each winter with the
knife with the idea of making them fruitful, thus
spoiling the trees and producing nothing but
cankered thickets.— J. C. Tau.ack, Livermere
Park, Bury St. Edmunds.

GRAPE ROYAL VINEYARD.

I have read Mr. Douglas's interesting remarks
on Grapes at page 1, and am pleased to find lie
has a good opinion of Royal Vineyard. We sel-
dom see or hear anything of this variety nowa-
days, the reason, doubtless, being its uncertain
setting character. A noted Grape grower in the
midlands wrote to me some time ago asking for
some eyes of it. as he knew I grew it. When I
sent the eyes I enclosed a few berries. He
replied that the flavour was grand, but asked
if it was really worth growing, being such a bad
setter. If, however, this difficulty can be sur-
mounted, as Mr. Douglas says it can by extra
care at the setting period, then it is not only
worth growing, but quite indispensable where
quality is recognised. My first experience with
this (irape was in Worcestershire. When I first
took charge of the place the Vines were not
labelled, and I did not know what this particular
rod was. When the bunches came into flower
the first season I noticed they were heavily
charged with the minute globules of water of
which Mr. Douglas speaks, and as I did not give
them any special attention, I did not secure a
single perfect bunch. The year following I used
a rabbit's tail freely each day at noon, this re-
moving the globules and allowing the pollen to
act. Every bunch set like Hamburghs, swelled
off fine berries, and ripened well. From that time
I have always been partial to Royal Vineyard.
The Vine I now have is inarched on Gros
Maroc, and the stock seems to suit it capitally.
It does not grow quite so strong as when on its
own roots, while the water globules which appear
are not nearly so numerous. When in bloom I
give it a temperature of 68° or 70° at night, keep-
ing a dryish atmosphere during the day and damp-
ing down very slightly in the afternoon when
sunny. With even ordinary care it sets quite
freely and does well throughout. I think the cul-
ture of these high-flavoured Grapes is not suffi-
ciently encouraged by societies offering prizes. I
would include a class for them in the schedule at
every large show.

In referring to Gros Colman, Mr. Douglas says
it requires a house to itself to do it properly. This
is no doubt true when on its own roots. If in-
arched on the Muscat it does its work in a surpris-
ingly short time. I have before referred to the
Gros Colman at Kelham Hall near here. This is
worked on the Muscat stock, and which, started
at the beginning of March, regularly ripens its
crop by the beginning of September. The bunches
are large, the berries enormous and the colour
that of the Sloe. After seeing these Grapes I put
a graft on to a Muscat rod. The Vine bore a
bunch last summer, and although the house was
not closed till February 1, the bunch of Gros Col-
man was quite black by the middle of July.

J. Crawfokd.

dens, is, nevertheless, still carried out in many
places. It is not always that good sound fruit
can be had at mid-winter, as even the old Cayenne
and Rothschild are apt to be discoloured in the
centre unless grown under the most favourable
conditions. Probably, all points considered, Black
Jamaica is the best winter fruiting sort, being
seldom found with a black centre. Black Prince,
however, a variety apparently little known, ripens
most satisfactorily during the dull dark months of
winter. The fruit is long, sometimes thirteen or
fourteen pips deep, rather narrow perhaps, but
very symmetrical, and in colour a handsome
bronze. The flavour is good, and large fruits are
produced on small plants, a rather cramped root
room suiting Black Prince best. — J. C.

Potash for forced Strawberries. — In many
gardens the Strawberry plants for forcing are far
from satisfactory, a large proportion of those that
were put in early either being blind, or throwing
up weak flower-stalks and very small blooms.
Amongst the many manures, both natural and
artificial, now to be had, I think muriate of
potash is one of the most useful for Strawberries
in pots, as, while not producing a gross habit, it
seems to cause a great increase in the strength and
general good health of the plants, and materially
assists the development of the fruit. Unlike some
manures, there is no objectionable smell, and if
applied while the fruit is ripening it does not
affect the flavour ; in fact, I believe it improves it
rather than injures it. As muriate of potash is a
powerful salt, somewhat weak applications will
prove far more beneficial than strong ones. A very
fair solution is half an ounce dissolved in one gallon
of water. This may be given two or three times a
week, and if deemed advisable may also be sup-
plied, in addition to any diluted natural manures.
The value of the muriate of potash would perhaps
not be so marked on plants potted in a heavy soil,
but for those in a medium or light soil its effects
are very apparent, and will warrant its use in
the future. Another advantage that I think
arises from employing this salt is that it keeps the
soil sweet. When the fruit has attained half its
size an application of nitrate of soda, one ounce to
each gallon of water, will afford a welcome change
in the food and help the development of the
berries ; but according to my experience any
further waterings with nitrate of soda have a
tendency to interfile with the flavour when the
berries are ripe — W. G. C.

A good winter Pine. — Pine-apple culture,
although greatly on the decline in English gar-

Stove and Greenhouse.

LIVING EDGINGS FOR CONSERVATORY

STAGES.
The time is now quite opportune to draw atten-
tion to this subject, on which not nearly enough
thoughtfulness is, as a rule, bestowed. it
cannot be argued against the adoption of living
edgings that they are not easily kept, or that
the choice of material is in any way limited, or
even that the propagation of the most suitable
varieties is in any sense a difficult matter.
Hence, where advantage of this additional
feature is not taken it must be assigned to other
causes. Of their utility and effectiveness there
can be no doubt whatever where once they have
been adopted in a judicious manner. Hardly
two cases may be exactly alike as to the special
needs in this case. Once I had charge of a large
conservatory with the borders planted out. In
this instance I used a marginal edging of Sela-
ginella denticulata. Dotted amongst such a
growth either Snowdrops or Crocuses were very
effective in the spring, these being lifted after
flowering, when the Selaginella was taken up and
relaid. To attempt to keep this kind of edging
for two seasons will not prove satisfactory.
Palms, Ferns and other fine-foliaged plants

68

THE GARDEN.

[January 26, 1895

formed the chief features in the beds in ques-
tion, shade during the summer being given. In
dealing with plants needing less shade, as
Camellias, Rhododendrons, &c. , Ficus repens
would answer well ; this would not require re-
newal every spring. In a light, sunny house
the new race of hybrid Streptocarpi can
scarcely be beaten. At Kew these are used
with the best effect in the succulent house.
The foregoing are all suitable for cool or
average conservatories, but for warm con-
servatories the subject of the accompany-
ing illustration makes oue of the most
effective of edging plants either planted out
or in pots. It will thrive well either in the
sun or when shade^, the tinted growth in the
former instance being very attractive, whilst the
purity of the variegation is equally so in the
latter. It is also well suited to ferneries that
are not excessively moist.

The foregoing are almost entirely cases of
planted-out " edgings," but in pots they still
form most suitable subjects for hiding the pots
(not always clean ones) of other plants from
view. Wherever the side stages are of suffi-
cient width such edgings should be adopted, whilst
central stages need never beoverlooked, the effect
of such edgings adding greatly to the general
appearance. Edgings to stages need not be of
compact, close growth ; nay, rather it is better
to have them selected from material that will
during the season droop down, adding still
further to the effect as a whole. Panicum
variegatum (I much prefer this, its older name
if not its strictly correct one) is an apt illustra-
tion of this method for a moderately warm
house at any season or for the average conserva-
tory during the warmer months. Imagine, for
instance, this pretty Grass intermixed with
Lobelia gracilis (a sadly neglected plant be-
cause not of compact or prim growth). What
could form a prettier combination, the shades
of blue and white of the Lobelia and the silvery
variegation of the Panicum ] The common
Musk is another instance ; so also is the Giant
Musk, but of the two, for pots, I prefer the
former. The varieties of the Tradescantia that
are given at least the warmth of the average
stove during the winter will at other seasons
serve admirably as edgings in any place where
the Panicum can be safely used.

Turning to plants that require the warmth of
the stove, attention is at once arrested by the
effect produced by the use of Fittonia argyo-
neura either in moist positions or compara-
tively dry ones. As a contrast to this plant,
F. Pearcei could be suitably employed, or,
better still perhaps in some cases, Cyrtodeira
fulgida or C. metallica. Both of these last-
named plants are charming subjects either as
edgings or for a carpeting amongst taller ones ;
their brilliant Tydrea-like flowers are very
showy. Another good old stove plant for an
edging is found in Torenia asiatica.

For the very coolest houses, even where the
frost is barely or even not excluded, there are
Euonymus radicans variegatus, one of the pret-
tiest of all edging plants, and Dactylis glome-
rata variegata, also Eurya latifolia variegata.
As a pot plant the last-named is a specially good
edging for decorative groups in other than
the growing quarters. The smaller and dwarf-
growing Begonias of the variegated or Rex
section should not be passed over. They seem
to be equally as much at home in a house from
which the frost is barely excluded as they are in
warmer quarters. Ferns, again, can be used to
the best advantage as edgings, choosing those
of dwarf habit. Adiantum cuneatum (of which
too much is hardly ever grown), Pteris serrulata
(better for this purpose than its crested forms),

and the dwarf Davallias are cases in point. It
would have been possible to extend this list,
but sufficient has been quoted under each head.
Additions can be made as the circumstances
may require. Grower.

BEGONIA GLOIRE DE SCEAUX.

Winter- FLOw'ERiNr; Begonias have attracted a
good deal of attention within the last few years,
and consequently many have been brought forward
during that time. Some have proved exceedingly
valuable for blooming in the winter, and among
the best is Gloire de Sceaux, which was first dis-
tributed about ten years ago, but was not gener-
ally known till a number of plants in grand con-

commences to bloom about midwinter, and a
succession is kept up till spring is well advanced.
I have also noticed that this Begonia seems to be
less affected by fogs than many of its class are.
Another variety with more pointed leaves of a
bronzy crimson colour is President de Boureuilles,
worth growing for its foliage alone, but the pink
flowers are also very showy. A continuous
flowering variety of great value for winter bloom-
ing is Gloire de Lorraine, one of the productions
of that eminent raiser, M. Lemoine, of Nancy.
When distributed it was announced as a hybrid
between Begonia socotrana and B. Dregei. The
flowers, which are profusely borne, are deep rose
in colour. In general appearance it is somewhat
like Messrs. Veitch's first hybrid of this class —
John Heal, but the blooms are not so brightly

Panicum va riegatum.

dition were shown at a meeting of the R. H.S. in
the middle of January two years since by Mr.
Jennings, gardener to Mr. Leopold de Rothschild,
Ascott, Leighton Buzzard, when a first-class cer-
tificate was awarded it. Since then it has made
headway, and is, I should say, destined to retain
that popularity for a long time. It was raised
by MM. Thibaut et Keteleer, of Sceaux, near
Paris, and described a? a hybrid between B. soco-
trana and B. subpeltata. The habit of the plant
is stout and vigorous, and it forms a neat, com-
pact, pyramidal-shaped specimen, plentifully fur-
nished with bold foliage of a rich bronzy green
tint. The flowers are large, borne in good sized
clusters, and of a deep pink colour. It usually

coloured. B. Gloire de Lorraine will often flower
from autumn till the spring. Lastly, among the
best of all the winter flowering Begonias are those
Chelsea hybrids, John Heal, just mentioned,
Adonis, and Winter Gem. Of these the variety
John Heal resulted from the intercrossing of
B. socotrana and a summer-flowering tuberous-
rooted variety — Viscountess Doneraile. B. John
Heal has bright rosy-carmine coloured flowers,
which retain their freshness for a considerable
time. B. Adonis was obtained by crossing B.
John Heal with a tuberous-rooted variety. The
flowers of Adonis are carmine, shaded scarlet. The
most recent of the three is Winter Gem, a hybrid
between B. socotrana and a crimson - scarlet

January 2(5, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

GO

tuberous-rooted variety. Begonia Winter Gem
is perhaps the most useful of the three, its scarlet-
crimson flowers being borne in great profusion, so
that it is a striking object throughout the winter
months. It will be seen from the above that we
are greatly indebted to B. socotrana for somo of
our finest winter- flowering Begonias. It was the
subject of a coloured plate in The Gakokn,
March 11, 1SS-2, and at the time great expecta-
tions were formed of its value to the hybridist,
which expectations have now been fully realised.
B. socotrana itself is well worth growing for the
sake of its blossoms, which are borne during
autumn and early winter. H. P.

Kentias. — Some years ago, when Palms in small
pots first became popular for indoor decoration,
and were then largely taken in hand by a few of
our market growers, the principal kinds grown
were Latania borbonica, Areca lutescens, Cory-
pha australis and Seaforthia elegans. Time has,
however, changed all that, and now the Kentias,
particularly two species — K. Belmoreana and K.
Fosteriana— are grown in far greater numbers
than any other Palm. Of these, K. Belmoreana
is the dwarfer and more finely divided, K. Fos-
teriana being taller, with the segments of the
leaves much broader. Good established plants of
Kentias that have been inured to a greenhouse
temperature will remain in good health in a room
for years, provided frost is excluded therefrom and
tin- plants receive a reasonable amount of atten-
tion. Irregular watering and an accumulation of
dirt on the foliage are two of the most important
reasons that cause plants in duelling- houses to
become unhealthy. These Palms will succeed in
much smaller pots than many suppose ; indeed,
they will stand for years without repotting, and
when the pots are full of roots an excess of water
will rarely harm them ; whereas, with a quantity
of soil into which the roots have not yet entered
the result will be totally different. In some
market nurseries these two Palms are grown in
such enormous numbers, that it is difficult to
imagine what becomes of them all. These Kentias
as indoor plants enjoy, I should say, at the present
time a popularity only second to that universal
favourite, the Aspidistra, which will not only
exist, but actually thrive even in some of the
most densely populated districts of London.

Forced Azalea mollis.— This Azalea is so
readily forced prematurely into bloom, that vast
numbers are every year so treated, and during the
autumn specially prepared plants bristling with
flower buds are sent here from the Continent in
large quantities. One very important point in
connection with these Azaleas, and one that is too
often overlooked, is that no time whatever should
be lost in potting those that are needed for forcing,
as the flowers on established plants retain their
beauty for a much longer period than those pro-
duced by plants that are just potted and taken
into the forcing house. This same remark will
apply to all shrubs intended for forcing, but in
few of them is the difference between established
and non-established plants so pronounced as it is
in this Azalea. In the ease of those that are just
potted, the blooms, generally speaking, open
readily enough, but many of them soon drop ;
whereas the others remain a much longer time in
perfection. Hence some prefer to keep these
Azaleas intended for early flowering altogether in
pots, and if a reasonable amount of attention is
given them when out of bloom this arrangement
will prove satisfactory. The leaves produced
under glass are very delicate ; hence the plants
should be protected after their beauty is over
until the season is sufficiently advanced to turn
them out of doors. They may be plunged outside,
when the principal point to be observed is to see
that they do not suffer from want of water during
the summer. After being forced for a season or
two it will be found that as they make their growth
earlier than those in the open ground their buds
are sooner formed ; hence early forcing is an easy
matter. This feature is especially noticeable in

the ease of other Azaleas, viz., the different va-
rieties of the Indian section, and also in the little
purple-flowered A. amcena, which can easily be
had in bloom before Christmas — T.

THE WEATHER OF 1803 AND ITS

EFFECTS ON THE GARDEN.*

It will be most convenient to take the twelve
months from November 1, 1892, to November
1, 1893, and a short record of the weather of
each month will help us to gauge the weather
of the year accurately. You will remember
that the autumn of 1892 was fairly mild. In
November there were five days ou which the
thermometer was below 32D, but the frosts were
very slight. In December there were sixteen
such days, but the frosts were very slight, so
that the mean minimum for the whole month
was only 32 , yet in the last week the frosts
were severe, and on the 27th the extreme mini-
mum of the year was reached, the thermometer
going down to 17°. From that time for nearly
three weeks there were almost continual frosts,
and there were fourteen days of frost in January,
with little wind and almost no snow. The
rainfall of January was a little over 2 inches,
and at the end of the month the thermometer
was up to 52°. In February there were four
days of slight frost, but there was over 3 inches
of rain, and the thermometer reached 57", and
the month might be called almost favourable
throughout. Then began the bright fine weather
which lasted so long. March was fair all through
with slight frosts on three days, with the ther-
mometer reaching 65° and only four- tenths of an
inch of rain, though rain was recorded on eight
days. In April there were two slight frosts —
the last of the season ; the month was bright all
through, the thermometer reaching 79', and
the rainfall only -00 inch, which fell in one
day. May was almost equally fine, but not
quite ; the thermometer reached 77°, and there
was a rainfall of 1*7 inches, spread over six
days. June was a splendid month, though rain
was recorded on eleven days ; the thermometer
reached 87°, and there was 1 inch of rain. In
July there were a few wet days Ln the middle of
the month, and rain altogether on fifteen days,
making a rainfall of 43 inches, but on the
whole it was a fine month with the thermometer
reaching 83°. August also was a bcautifu
month, with 1'7 inches of rain spread over
ten days, and the thermometer reaching 80°.
September was equally fine, with T4 inches
of rain spread over fourteen days, the ther-
mometer reaching 77°. In October the
weather began to change ; it was on the whole
a bright month, the thermometer reaching
09°, but there were 3 4 inches of rain, much
needed, and on the two last days of the month
there were frosts, and the glory of the garden
was at an end for the year. The outcome of the
year was this : Nearly seven months of bright sun-
shiny weather with very slight intervals of rain ;
a warm, but not an oppressive summer, with very
little dew at night and almost no thunderstorms,
and bright blue skies and clear atmosphere
throughout. The only summer with which we
can at all compare it was the summer of the
Jubilee year, but that was in many respects
very different. In that year there were three
beautiful months of true summer, with very
little rain ; but it did not begin till the middle
of June, and was preceded by a dull and wet
spring, and that entirely altered the condi

* Portion of a paper read by the Rev. Canon Ella-
eorube, M.A., December 13, lS'Ji, and taken from the
published transactions of the Bath Natural History
and Antiquarian Club.

tions, and so produced very different effects in
the garden. The effects of the long summsr in
gardens this year were very remarkable, and in
speaking of them I shall confine myself as mush
as possible to my own garden, and so speaking
from personal observations shall be able to
speak with more certainty.

The results were not altogether good, and it
will be better to clear away first the bad side
of the account. It has been a most disastrous
year to all newly-planted things, and especially
to newly-planted trees and shrubs. Many of
them promised well for a time, but they could
not stand the prolonged drought before they
had got a good grip of the ground to enable
them to draw their necessary supplies from th l
soil. For many plants, but especially for newly-
planted ones, no amount of watering will
supply what is wanted, and that is a moist
atmosphere, especially at night. It was also a
very disastrous year to plants which had been
long established, but had been weakened by
previous bad seasons, and were struggling back
into strong life. For you will remember that
the two previous winters had been very severe ;
and when you think of the hard frosts of
December and January last, it is easy to under-
stand that the constitutions of many plants had
been sorely tried. Still many were not killed,
and would have been able to make a successful
struggle for life if there had been a mild and
dripping spring ; but they could not fight against
the long continuance of bright suns and a
dry atmosphere, and many of them died. That,
then, was one item on the wrong side of the
account : another was the great abundance
and luxuriance of the weeds. The abundance
cannot altogether be put down to the bright
summer ; it arose from the wet autumns of the
two previous years, when the destruction of the
weeds was almost an imp< issibility. In that way
they had become well established, and then
thev seemed to revel in the bright sunshine of
this year. I will name two particularly. I never
saw Dandelions so abundant or so magnificent.
I very much admire the Dandelion ; in leaf,
flower and seed it is one of the most beautiful
plants I know, and I often wish it was not such
a weed that I might grow it as one of our most
brilliant flowers. This year it surpassed itself
in brilliancy, and I often stopped to admire
the size and depth of colour of the flowers in
the hedgerows, and I was not, and indeed never
have been, surprised at the praises it has won
from some of our best poets, such as Tennyson
and Jean Ingelow. The bright sun and still air
also produced the beautiful heads of seed in
great perfection, and, I am afraid, in too great
abundance ; and many of you will remember
the grand specimens that we gathered in the
churchyard of Malmesbury Abbey of its near
relation, the wild Salsafy. The other weed
that was produced this year as abundantly, and
even more unpleasantly, was Grass. It is quite
remarkable how our flower beds have become
almost covered with strong plants of Grass. I
am sure that in my own garden there are several
borders which would by this time have been
quite covered if let alone. This is easily
explained. There has been exceeding little
lawn-mowing this year. The lawns, like the
fields, produced no growing Grass for many
weeks, but on the lawns, as in the fields, the
Grasses, though very dwarf, went to seed, and
the seed was scattered on the borders, which
were well warmed and ready to receive them,
and there they soon germinated, and produced
abundance of plants. The same thing occurred
with the large Grasses, the Bamboos, of which
I grow several species. They made no growth
at all during the hot weather, but as soon as

70

THE GARDEN.

[January 26, 1895.

the drought was over they sent up vigorous
shoots, but too late to reach their full growth.
I should not have been surprised if some of
them had flowered, but I am glad to say they
did not, for when a Bamboo flowers it dies.

So much, then, for the bad side of the record ;
now for the other side. Surely it was a summer
of prolonged delight ; it was something to record
and remember that for six months we could be
in our gardens under a cloudless sky almost
every day and all day long. That is the general
aspect of the summer ; but there are many
particulars well worth noting, and first we note
the flowers. Flowers of all sorts, with some few
exceptions, have been most abundant. The
one great exception was with the Lilies, which
in my garden were dwarf and stunted and
very poor in flower. But after making that
exception and a very few others, think only
what the Roses were ; they were in masses, and
though the hot sun faded them sooner than
usual, they seemed to come again and again.
Not only was this the case with the Hybrid
Perpetuals, but with the summer Roses as
well, and even with the spring Roses, for the
Banksian Roses, both white and yellow, were
in good flower in October, so that I am sure I
could pick Roses from March till the frosts
came at the end of October. But there were
many flowers which I saw this year almost for
the first time. I may mention these few. The
Eulalia zebrina, which I never saw in flower
before out of Devonshire ; the Osmanthus
ilicifolius, the Asparagus verticillatus and A.
acutifolius, the grand Hibiscus grandiflorus
from the Southern United States, which in
former years did not produce even its buds
till October and never came to perfection, but
this year produced both flowers and seeds ;
and the Japanese Bignonia or Tecoma grandi-
flora, which I never saw in flower out of
doors till this year, though it has often formed
buds. From these few flowers I pass to

The Fruits,

meaning by fruits all seed vessels. To me the
most interesting was the Japanese Orange
(Citrus trifoliata). I have had a few small fruit
on my tree in previous years, but they did
not ripen. This year the tree was covered with
blossoms in the spring, and as we had no late
frosts I had plenty of beautiful fruit, which fully
ripened and produced good seeds. The Catalp'a
had an abundance of fruit like long French
Beans ; this also fruited in the Jubilee year.
The Cassia marilandica produced abundance
of fruit and good seeds for the first time, which
was also the case with Phygelius capensis,
Caryopteris mastacanthus, Aralia spinosa, very
elegant in fruit, like a delicate Ivy to which
it is closely allied ; the common Box tree,
Magnolia Lennei with brilliant scarlet berries,
and the fine Asparagus verticillatus. Outside
my own garden I was pleased to see in the
botanic garden in the Victoria Park the
curious fruit of the Chinese Xanthoceras sorbi-
folia and the very pretty berries of the Clero-
dendron trichotomum. I have both these in
my garden, and I believe older plants than
those in the park, but I have never had fruit on
them. And it is rather curious to note trees
that have not fruited this year. There are no
Holly berries, and very few berries on the
Thorn trees. I have had no fruit on the Japan-
ese Diospyros, or on the Christ's Thorn, though
1 have had them in other years not so favour-
able ; nor have I had fruit on the Koelreuteria,
which was covered with its golden pods in the
Jubilee year; and Pomegranates in Bath,
though they have formed their fruit, have not
ripened them. But it is quite certain that this

non-fruiting arose not from the peculiarities of
this year, but from the weather of last year and
perhaps even the year before. The autumnal
tints were wonderfully good, and that must
chiefly be put down to the bright summer, but
partly also to the absence of early autumnal
frosts. The late Miss Marianne North told me
that of all trees she knew — and she had seen
trees in all parts of the world — none could com-
pare in beauty of autumnal tints with the
Salisburia ; but I never realised the truth of
this till this year. I have a fine specimen on
my lawn, and the autumnal tints came on
gradually, a lovely pale gold colour, beginning
with the lower branches and slowly spreading
to the top, and lasting in their beauty a long
time. The autumnal colour of the Tulip Tree
is almost as beautiful, but with this curious
difference : As long as the leaves are on the
trees they are of a fine golden colour, but as
soon as they fall they at once become of a dull
ugly brown ; whereas the leaves of Salisburia
retain their colour long after they have fallen,
and form a golden carpet underneath the tree
until they are swept away. I grow a good
many species of Vine, and they all showed a
wonderful wealth of colour, though their near
relatives, the Ampelopsids, were not by any
means so brilliant as I have often seen them,
and the tints of the Parrottia were very poor.*
And in connection with the autumnal appearance
of the garden, it is worth noting that many
people thought that we should have no autumn
flowers on account of the early flowering of
most of the plants, but the alarm was needless.
The gardens this autumn were wonderfully
say ; mine certainly was. Most of- this, no
doubt, was owing to the summer bedders, which
this year had in many gardens an increased
value ; but leaving them out of the question,
and without entering into details, I can say that
my garden in September and October was bright
and gay. I rather exptcted to see an abnormal
growth of spring flowers, but it really was
very little more than in ordinary years. There
were a few Primroses, as there always are ;
Triteleia showed a few flowers, and some of
the Narcissi are showing their leaves well above
ground ; but, speaking generally, things are not
too forward, but are, in gardener's language,
in their right place. But I have one remark-
able exception to this. I have had for many years
a good plant of Mandragora autumnalis from
S. Italy and Greece. When I first had it it
flowered in the autumn, its normal time of
blooming, but year by year it altered its time,
aud for several years part it has always flowered
in the spring. This year — I suppose it thought
it was again in the south— it sent up its curious
leaves at the end of September, like a gigantic
green star lying flat on the ground, and its
beautiful flowers have been in great luxuriance
all through October and November, and are
still in their beauty (Dec. 16).

There are two accidental curiosities which
must be entirely put down to the hot summer.
One is the reappearance of long-lost plants.
I have two such that are worth mentioning.
I have good seedlings, not very near together,
of some Cytisus, now healthy young plants,
and yet I cannot call to mind ever having had
a Cytisus that would produce such seedlings.
The other case is much more curious. Many
years ago, perhaps twenty or more, I used to
grow the pretty little Cape plant, Bui bine
annua. I am sure it is at least ten or twelve
years since I have seen a plant in my garden ;

but this year they are in abundance and in many
parts of the garden. And what adds to the
curiosity is that they have come up in ths
same way in a friend's garden in the Isle of
Wight, and he also cannot call to mind
when he last saw the plant in his garden,
but he is sure it is many years ago. The
other accidental curiosity I would mention
is the effect of the summer on our store
fruit. Apples are keeping very badly, and in
most cases ripened prematurely. Pears and
Grapes, too, are ripening badly, and keeping
badly. The greengrocers tell me it is the same
with Chestnuts, and the further result is that
the cider of this year will not keep, and house-
keepers are mourning over the premature spoil-
ing of their jams by mould. I suppose in
the case of our own fruit, especially Apples,
the sugar has been formed too rapidly and
fermentation has set in, and this may help us
to understand why it is that Apples do so
much better in temperate regions than in hot
climates. The fruit to be good must mature
slowly. But this is only a guess. I do not
piofess to know all the mysteries of an Apple,
or I might be able to explain how it is that
the Apple is the hardiest fruit tree known,
ripening its fruit as far as 64° N. ; yet Apple
blossoms are more tender than those of the
Apricot and Peach.

Leaving the garden, I should like to mention
one memorable result of the fine summer. If
it has been a great delight to the healthy and
strong, it has been an untold delight to the
weakly and invalid, and in many cases a prolong-
ing of life and even a renewal of strength.
In my own parish I have a remarkable proof
of this. The ecclesiastical parish of Bitton
has a population of 1200, and in the thirteen
months from November 1, 1892, to December
1, 1893, there have been only three deaths,
and of those three one was a child of a few
weeks, sickly from its birth ; another was
an older child, who died from the effects of
rheumatic fever, but whose life was certainly
prolonged for at least three months, and
happily prolonged on account of the bright,
sunny weather ; the third only was a man of
full age. When you remember that 17 in 1000
in a year marks a healthy area, you will see
something of the effect of a bright summer in
reducing even that to 3 in 1200 in thirteen
months.

The interesting question now remains, What
will be the effect of the long hot summer on
the present winter and on the gardens next
year I I do not pretend to be a weather prophet,
but I do not suppose that the weather that is
past has very much effect on the weather to
come, yet I am very hopeful that this winter
will neither be long nor severe. It is very true
that we have had severe frosts, and several of
them rather earlier than usual ; but an early
winter is very seldom a severe or prolonged
winter, and the late Sir Robert Christison, a
very accurate observer, gave it as his ex-
perience for forty years that shaip frost late in
October and early in November had been always
followed by mild winters.*

I have little faith in weather cycles, but I
have great faith in weather averages, and it
would be against all experience to have four
severe winters in succession. I call that a
severe winter for the garden when there is much

* Since writing this, the first volume of (he " Index
Kewensis"bas been put) i shed, and in it Arnpelopsis
disappears as a genus, nnd all the species are placed
under Vitis.

* A period of from four to seven days of continuous
bard frosts in the last week of October or first week
in November. In the course of forty years I have not

' met with one exception to the rule that the frost
then ceases and the winter continues open as far on
through the winter as the last week of January. My
observation does not carry me further. — " Life of Sir

1 Robert Christison," vol. ii., p. 127.

January 26, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

71

skating, for skating requires a continuous frost
and very little snow ; and it is a continued frost
that works mischief in the gardeu, especially
if there are high winds and no snow. I am sure
that a fortnight of cold weather with the ther-
mometer at 25° is more destructive to plant life
than two or three nights with the thermometer
at 15° or even 10°. Certainly it is so if the
ground is fortunately covered with snow dur-
ing the lower temperature. But all this is
literally in nubibus, and there we must leave
it ; but whether thp winter is severe or not, it
is quite certain that the long, hot summer has
added much vital strength to all plants. There
was during the autumn a formation in many
cases of sappy shoots, which will probably be
cut off, even if the winter is mild ; but the main
life of the plant will be safe, and from all pre-
sent appearances next year will be a good year
for flowers and fruit. We can gather that from
the few which show the promise of next year,
such as the Pyrus japonica and the early Mag-
nolias, which are full of flower-buds, the Hazels,
which are covered with catkins, and the Pears
and Peaches, which are well provided with
plump fruit-buds. And 1 should expect nearly
all bulbous plants to flower well next year,
for most bulbs rejoice in a good roasting when
dormant, and that they have had this year.

And so I bring my paper to a close. Much
might be said on the agricultural aspects of the
year, but that is outside the limits of this paper.
Much also of interest might be said on the
effects of the summer on animals, birds, and
insects, and some of that I hope will be told us
by some other member of the club more com-
petent to do so than I am. My work was limited
to the weather and the garden, and on these
two points there can be but one conclusion. The
year has been indeed an annus mirabilis, a year
which our children and grand-children will look
back to, and when they are grumbling, as the}'
certainly will grumble, at the bad weather of
their own day, they will speak with regret of
the lovely old-fashioned summer they remember
when they were young — a year to be remem-
bered and to be thankful for.

SCC1ETIES AND EXHIBITIONS.

THE GARDENERS' ROYAL BENEVOLENT

INSTITUTION.

Annual Meeting.

The above took place at Simpson's, 101, Strand,
on January 17, Mr. H. J. Veitch taking the chair
at three o'clock. It was most gratifying to note
that continued progress is being made by this old-
established and most deserving charity, by which
untold benefits have been conferred upon gar-
deners or their widows (using the definition of gar-
dener in the most comprehensive manner). The
increase in the numbers of subscribers during the
past year is not large, it is true, but to report any
increase at all is most satisfactory at the present
time, when many such institutions have to deplore
a decreased income. This speaks well for the
management, which is not conducted upon any
narrow-minded basis, but upon a broad and en-
lightened view of the whole aspect of the situa-
tion. It is surprising that so few gardeners be-
come either annual subscribers or life members.
In neglecting this they are certainly standing in
their own light. Such matters must not be looked
upon in any selfish mood. Some may think that
they will never need any assistance from its funds.
If so, this is an indication that they have the
means at their disposal to assist their more unfor-
tunate brethren, and they ought to render what
help they can. Many who have taken this selfish

view have thought they would never require the
pension, yet there are such now on the pension
list, whilst others are endeavouring to obtain
election, but thus far some of these have failed.
Even if a gardener should never need the pension,
he ought, if he looked at the subject in the proper
light, be only too glad to render help to others, not
only by his monetary assistance, but by the
privilege accorded him in voting for the election
of deserving candidates.

It is most satisfactory to know that the last
anniversary festival, presided over by Sir Julian
Goldsmid, Bart., was a great success. Another
very noteworthy advance has been made in the
formation of auxiliaries in important centres.
Three of these have been started, viz., at Bristol
for Bristol and Bath, at Birmingham and at
Wolverhampton. This new departure has proved
most encouraging, and will be still further ex-
tended at other centres. During the past year
fifteen pensioners have passed away. The com-
mittee, therefore, decided to recommend the addi-
tion of fourteen pensioners to those now on the
books, eight of whom were elected without the
expense and trouble of a contested election, they
having fulfilled the conditions of rule iii., 5, to
which important proviso attention should be
directed. The remaining six were elected on the
17th inst., and the names of the successful can-
didates given in our last issue. It was with much
regret that the committee felt themselves unable
to assist a larger number of candidates, the more
fo as the list of those seeking election is the
largest on record in the history of the insti-
tution. A perusal of the voting papers last
issued will give full particulars of these un-
successful candidates. With such a long array
of applications before them, the committee
appeal very earnestly for more support and in-
creased efforts on the part of present subscribers.
They specially plead with those for whose benefit
the institution was founded to do all they can in
urging its claims upon those with whom they
come into contact and who are interested in hor-
ticultural pursuits. In order to increase the
resources of the institution, the trustees, with the
full sanction of the committee, decided to sell out

the sum of £20,1 2| Consols and re-invest the

same amount in guaranteed securities bearing a
higher rate of interest. They have therefore
taken up the above amount in London and North-
western Railway and Midland Railway 3 per
cent. Debentures, Great India Peninsula 5 per
cent. Guaranteed Stock, and Manchester Corpora-
tion 3 per cent. Stock. This alone will give an
increased income from dividends of about £50
a year. The treasurer of the institution, Mr.
Harry J. Veitch, was unanimously re-elected
to that important office, and most cordially
thanked for his indefatigable efforts to further
its interests. The auxiliaries, it should be noted,
owe their greatest success to his personal attend-
ance in advocating the benefits of the institution.
Mr. G. J. Ingram was re-elected secretary and
heartily thanked for past services. During the
past year Mr. John Lee, who had for over fifty
years taken the warmest interest in the institu-
tion, having been for many years the chairman of
committee, resigned this important post. In
accepting his resignation, the committee desire
to place on record the valuable services Mr.
Lee has rendered the institution in so many ways.
Sir Alexander Arbuthnot, who takes a warm
interest in horticulture, was approached, and he
very kindly consented to fill the post of chairman
in place of Mr. Lee. The annual friendly supper
of the supporters of the institution took place at
the close of the election, when Mr. George Dick-
son, of Chester, presided. He urgently appealed
to all present to do their utmost in making
greater advances in the immediate future, and
thus add to the benefits conferred.

National Chrysanthemum Society. —A

meeting of the general committee of this society
was held at Anderton's Hotel, Fleet Street, on
Monday last, when Mr. R. Ballantine occupied the
chair. The business of the evening was almost

entirely of a purely routine nature in preparation
for the annual general meeting of the members on
the 25th prox. It was announced that the so-
ciety's new publication — "The Chrysanthemum
Year-Book " — was ready for distribution, and that
the demand for it was already being felt. New
members were elected, among whom were two
foreign members, M. Crozy, of Lyons, and M.
Ferdinand Cay eux. The secretary reported that
during the year 1894 the following additions had
been made : Fifteen affiliated societies, eleven
Fellows, and 130 ordinary members. The report
of the schedule sub-committee recommending the
judges at the society's shows for the season of
1895 was presented.

Royal Botanic Society of Manchester.—
The council of the above society has resolved to
hold a great exhibition of Lilies'in the gardens at
Old Trafford, to open on the first Monday in
August next (Bank Holiday). This being the first
special exhibition devoted to the Lily, it is ex-
pected that much interest will be excited. It is
requested that all interested in this Lily show will
communicate with Mr. Bruce Findlay, Royal
Botanic Gardens, Manchester.

Notes of the Week.

Lily of the Valley. — A charming mass of
the Lily of the Valley has been sent us from Mr.
Iceton, the Nurseries, Putney Park Lane, Put-
ney, S. W. The plants are tall and most graceful,
bearing fine foliage and spikes.

Bulbocodium vernum is fully a fortnight
earlier in bloom this year than last. It generally
is one of the first of the hardy bulbs to come into
flower. At this season (when planted in clumps)
the purple flowers are very conspicuous, two or
three blooms coming from each bulb. It does not
require any special treatment. Plant the bulbs
during the autumn in a sunny position and let
them remain undisturbed for three or four years.
— J. W. H., Worcester.

Olearia Haasti.— For some years I have
grown this in large quantities in one of the most
elevated positions on the north-east coast. It is
quite at home. No shrub here makes so much
wood in a year and it never fails to flower freely.
I have tried other species of Olearia, but none of
them will succeed except macrodonta, which does
fairly well. I find O. Haasti strikes very readily
from cuttings put in at any time during the
summer months.— Geo. Johnson, Tin <;<ir<i< lis,
Sarrietfield, Scarborough.

New plants in France.— M. J. Sallier fils,
Neuilly, France, sends us the following: "I had
some fruit of the Casuarina sumatrana, and I have
sent you a specimen by post, thinking that you
would like to see a cone which is so rarely met
with in cultivation, and the structure of which is
so interesting for its uncommon regularity. As
regards new plants, I am sending out in the spring
Rottlera homosa, a very curious member of the
Gesnera family ; a yellow-flowered Myosotis, M.
Traversi (to lovers of these plants a yellow-flowered
Myosotis is an abomination) ; and Euphorbia
Foumieri, a curious plant resembling a Cereus with
the addition of broad leaves."

Anemone japonica Honorine Jobert.—
When in the neighbourhood of Belfast in Sep-
tember last I saw a very fine lot of this beautiful
autumn-flowering plant in the gardens of Mr.
Victor Coates, Rathmore. The plants, which
formed the back row in a mixed border in
the kitchen garden, were about 4 feet high,
nearly as much through, and a perfect mass of
bloom. The soil in which they grew was of a
clayey nature, and evidently suited them.
Planted in this way or in beds the effect is much
better than solitary specimens growing at wide
intervals in the herbaceous border.— C. R., Clay-
ton West.

Protecting fruit at flower shows.— When
at Newtownards show last August I observed

72

THE GARDEN.

[January 20, 1895

how carefully the exhibits of fruit, vegetables,
and farm produce were protected. As soon as
the fruit was judged, a light wooden framework
covered with wire netting was placed over it, thus
effectually preventing people handling it. The
vegetables and farm produce were protected by
an upright framework covered with netting, a
path being left between the stages and the pro-
tectors for the judges to inspect the exhibits.
The above system, especially in regard to fruit,
mitrht well be adopted at, some of the large exhi-
bitions in this country. We should not then hear
fo many complaints about pilfering. — C. R. ,
Clayton West.

Calanthe bella. — This charming hybrid Cal-
anthe is row making a very brilliant display in
the Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Hol-
loway, and is useful where cut flowers are in de-
mand. It was raised from C. Turneri and C.
Veitchi, and produces long arching racemes of
flowers, which are of a delicate light rose with a
carmine blotch at the base of the lip. It belongs
to the vestita section, and should be given similar
treatment to that group.

Mistletoe. — I had always understood that the
growth of this parasite upon a tree was decidedly
pernicious to the host, and there was a report a
year or two ago that the French Government had
issued an (diet that all orchards were to be cleared
of Mistletoe on this account, but I see that Mr.
Burrell (p. 18) does not take this view. In some
parts of Somersetshire it grows — or did so a few
years back — on the standard Apples in some old
orchards in great profusion. I remember, while
staying in that county, seeing a fine bush of it
growing on an olel Acacia tree (Robinia) in a
rectory garden. I have founel it very easy to pro-
pagate, slitting the bark of an Apple tree and in-
serting a seed rarely failing to produce a plant ;
while four out of five seeds that I merely rubbed
on to the bark on the: underside of a branch ger-
minated, though more slowly. — S. \V. F.

Lycaste plena f nd variety. — This species is
useful for winter flowering. It was originally dis-
covered many years ago, and intrcduceel in a living
state into this country by the Messrs. Loddiges,
of Hackney, about fifty years ago. The flowers,
which are borne on scapes about G inches or more
high, have greenish sepals shaded with brown ; the
petals white, reflexed and with a crimson blotch
in the centre, the small lip being also white,
spotted with rosy carmine on the front portion. It
shoulel be grown at the warmest end of the Odon-
toglossum house or in a temperature intermediate
between that for those plants and the Cattleyas.
The variety L. plana Measuresiana is a rare
plant, similar to the typical form, but ha\ing olive-
brown sepals with light green points, the white
petals and lip densely spotted with purplish car-
mine. A fine plant of this is now in flower in the
nurseries of Messrs B. S. Williams and Son, of
Holloway.

Lycoris aurea appears to be a very shy-flower-
ing plant, and possibly the reason for several
specimens having come into bloom last year is
due to the exceptional heat of 1893 having been
favourable to the ripening of the bulbs. Mr.
Wallace gives sonic usual information respecting
these bulbs, and suggests that they require warm
house treatment. For bulbs imported from Hong
Kong doubtless this would apply, but in the case
of bulbs from a colder climate, different treat-
ment might be necessary. Some eleven years ago
I received some bulbs from the Foochoo hills.
The climate was described as very cold in winter,
and the soil in which they grew as stones and
gravel. These bulbs have flowered but once since
their arrival and have been subjected to various
kinds of treatment — from hot to cold, from poor
soil to rich. Under all the conditions they have
grown well and multiplied, but have only flowered
once, and that in an intermediate house. One bulb
which I gave away a year ago flowered last Octo-
ber, having been grown in a cool frame. Any
information on the treatment of these interesting
plants would be valuable, as they are a beautiful
addition to our gardens, and could they be in-

ducerl to flower as readily as they increase, they
would soon become popular. — Beatrice Buncombe,
North Deitjhton Manor, Wetherhy.

Hardy Cyclamens. — What beautiful and in-
teresting plants these are. After the snow and
frost of the last few days, Cyclamen coum is new
commencing to bloom very freely on the shady
border, the deep red or crimson flowers, appearing
through a carpet of deep green leaves which adds
to their beauty, being very attractive at this time
of the year. Close to the above are several
plants of C. Atkinsi, which is also sending up a
few white flowers shaded with pink ; the petals
finely serrated, with a deep maroon blotch at the
base of each petal. I find the flowers very useful
for small vases, and with a little attention they
will keep fresh for eight or ten days. Hardy
Cyclamens succeed best when planted on a moist,
shady border, in some good loam, peat and sand.
They seed very freely, and if the seed be sown as
soon as ripe in well-drained pans and not allowed
to get dry, it will soon germinate. The seedlings
should be ready for planting out in about two
years. The autumn-flowering kinds — C. hedera'-
folium and the variety album — shoulel also be in-
cluded. The leaves of these autumn kinds are
beautifully marked, and after the flowers have
disappeared the foliage remains beautiful through-
out the winter months. — J. W. H., Worcester.

Bulb boxes.— Can any reader of The Garden
kindly tell me of what wood most of the boxes
sent here from Japan containing Lily bulbs are
made? It is coarse, the grain runs in various
directions, the knots are often very large, and it is
evidently that of a conifer— I think perhaps Cryp-
tomeria japonica. — H. P.

The weather in West Herts. — A week of
very changeable weather as regards temperature.
Both the days and nights remained mild until
January 22, when a change to colder conditions
suddenly took place. On January 20 the highest
reading in the shade was 49°, making this the
wannest day of the month as yet, but on January
22 the temperature at no time exceeded 35°. On
the following night a thermometer exposed on the
surface of the snow showed 23° of frost, which is
the lowest reading registered by this instrument
during the present winter. The extreme cold
lasted but a short time, the lowest point being
reached at about ten p.m., the temperature
rising rapidly immediately afterwards. At 1 foot
deep the soil is now 3° above freezing, or about
the average temperature for the previous nine
Januaries. Rain or snow has fallen on each of the
last twelve days, the total measurement being
nearly 2J inches. Twice during this period the
ground has been covered with snow : on January
12 to the depth of 3£ inches, and on January 22
to the depth of 2A inches, but on both occasions it
soon melted. Several winter Aconites in my gar-
den were ready to open before the end of the past
year, but, owing to the frozen state of the ground
and the dull weather, there was not an expanded
flower to be seen until January 20. This is four
days earlier than its average date of flowering in
the previous six years, but three days later than
in 1S04.— E. M., Berkhamsted.

Covent Garden Market.— At Bow Street on
January 22 Thomas Frohock, Charles Champion,
William Eames, Henry Lewis, jun., John Grover,
William Grove, and Arthur Sole, salesmen, occupy-
ing shops in James Street, Covent Garden, appeared
before Mr. Lushington, to adjourned summonses
charging them with causing an obstruction and
inconveniencing the public by allowing vegetables,
&c., to stand in the roadway opposite their places
of business for a longer time than was necessary
for loading cr unloading. The prosecution was
undertaken on behalf of the Chief Commissioner of
Police. Mr. Muir, for the defence, argued that
the present practice in James Street had been
continued for at least 100 years. This case arose
out of a quarrel between the outside and inside
men at Covent Garden Market. The inside men
had to pay toll to the Duke of Bedford, and they

objected to outsiele men doing business without
paying tolls. There had not been any incon-
venience to the public. Several of the defendants
were then called to show that the obstruction was
not so great as alleged, and that the practice of
placing goods on the side of the roadway hael been
allowed for many years. Mr. Taylor, a vegetable
salesman in James Street, said that some years
ago he saw Sir Charles Warren, the then Chief
Commissioner of Police, with regard to alleged
obstructions in that thoroughfare. Sir Charles
agreed that the shopkeepers should not be in-
terfered with if their goods were removed from
the roadway before 9 o'clock in the morning. Mr.
Lushington said it was perfectly clear that any
arrangement with regard to James Street entered
into by Sir Charles Warren would not in any sense
be binding on the Chief Commissioner of the pre-
sent day. Each defendant would have to pay a
fine of 20s. and 10s. costs. Mr. Lushington added
that in future cases the full penalty would be im-
posed.

EA1NFALL IN 1894.
Inyerie Gardens, Inverness-shire.

For year
1894.

Jar uary
February . .
March ....

April

M-y

>une

•Tuly

August. . . .
September.
October . .
November .
Decemb r .

Average temperatures.

Total

rainfall.

a

p c o

. --■ -

« D C

o o —

Max.

Mid.

Wet
bulb

Dry

bulb.

2 S.S

- X *

41-15

32-19

38-04

39- 2

10 17

1-38

7

43'22

34-05

40 14

41-18

11-18

108

2

51-17

35-21

45-1 *

50-13

8 05

1-34

13

56 S8

30-12

51-18

65-25

1 71

■35

10

54-01

36 2"

4S-09

51 00

4 05

1-05

IS

63-14

4 8 -OS

50-25

63 02

5-51

1 -20

17

67-04

48-24

59 25

6* -26

0 00

1-S0

10

58-29

45-21

56-18

17-27

9 41

1-81

0

62 01

39 17

56 OS

01 01

•;o

•22

27

52-14

36-11

48 03

52 05

3-40

•60

17

49-13

40 -OS

40 03

48-12

14-19

1-35

5

43-28

3J-18

40 36

42-28

9-74

1 44

5

Total lainfnll fur the year

—J. Htjggins.

thade note.

An effective vaporiser.— I have tried a great
many of the various insecticides that have been
brought before the public of late years, and they
have by no means given universal satisfaction,
some failing to make a clearance of insect pests,
or perhaps injuring the plants, while others
require a good deal of time and attention. It is
now generally admitted that nicotine in the form
of vapour is more effective than tobacco smoke,
and the best vaporiser I have tried is that known
as the "X L all vaporising Fumigator, ' sold by
Mr. G. H. Richards, Lambeth, S.E. It may be
used without injury to flower or foliage. I have
tried it on show Pelargoniums in flower, on tender
Ferns and Orchrds in bloom, none of which were
in the least injured, while both aphides and thrips
were destroyed. The smell afterwards is not in
the least displeasing. The whole operation is
very simple, the vaporising being effected by a
small spirit lamp. — H. P.

BOOKS EECEIVED.

"Treatise on the Physiology of Plants." By Dr.
Paul Sorauer. Translated by T. E. Weiss, ProfcFsor of
Botany at the Owens College, Manchester. With 33
illustrations. Longmans, Green and Co., London
and New York.

National Cbrjsantliemum Society's Year-hook for
1895.

Name of fruit. — Reader. — Apple is Rymer.

Name of plant.— Hamilton
gocd forrr, hut Ehoold like to see i
plant has become established.

Leigh. — A fairly
flower when the

The Wild Garden : or, the Naturalisation ami Natural
Grouping of Hardy Exotic Plants, w ttt a chapter on the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, with vood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged. Tcniy
8ro, linen cloth. Price 12s. ; well bound in half morocco, 18*.
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEX.

73

No. 1211, SATURDAY, February 2, 1895. Vol. XLVII.

" This is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather; but
The Art itself is Natube."— bhakesptare.

Trees and Shrubs.

TREES AND SHRUBS CERTIFICATED

IN 1894.

There is no doubt that within the last few-
years hardy trees and shrubs have become
more popular ; hence greater numbers are shown
at the meetings of the Royal Horticultural
Society, and the list of those upon which first-
class certificates or awards of merit have been
bestowed shows a corresponding increase. Thus
during the year 1894 no less than thirty-two,
exclusive of Roses and Tree Pieonies, have been
so honoured, while in 1893 the number was
only twenty-two, and in 1892 no more than ten.
A general opinion is that these certificates
are given only to new plants, but this is by no
means the case, as many well-known subjects
are every year honoured in this way. The trees
and shrubs certificated during 1894 are : —

Amyudau's persica magnifiac. — This beau-
tiful variety of the double flowered Peach was
shown on February 13 by Messrs. Veitch, when a
first-class certificate wasawarded it. The flowers
are of a brilliant crimson colour. These double
Peaches, especially those of such decided tints as
this, are really charming, flowering as they do so
early in the year when most subjects still wear
their winter garb. They are often used for forc-
ing, and no doubt this newer form from its rich-
ness of colouring will be much sought after for
this purpose.

LoBOPETALUM chinense is a near ally of the
Witch Hazels (Hamamelis), and, like them, the
flowers are composed of four narrow strap shaped
petals, a good deal twisted, and of a creamy-
white tint. In other respects it is very different
from the Hamamelis, the foliage being oblong,
pointed, and of a deep green. It is also evergreen
in character. This Loropetalum is a native of
China, from whence it was introduced in 1SS0,
but it is at the present day very uncommon. A
first class certificate was awarded to it on March
13, the flowers apparently having been brought on
under glass.

Azalea albicans.— This is the result of inter-
crossing the Chinese A. mollis with the North
American A. occidentali?. The flowers, w Inch are
borne in bold trusses, are like those of a good form
of A. mollis, their colour being white, slightly
suffused with yellow, which is more pronounced
on the upper segments. An award of merit was
bestowed upon this on March 13.

FoRSYTIlIA INTERMEDIA.— TWO ForsythiaS, SUS-

pensa and viridissima, have been grown in our
gardens for years, and this form, intermedia,
distributed by M. Lemoine, of Nancy, about six
or seven years ago, was announced as a hybrid
between the two first-named species. In general
appearance F. intermedia is about mid-way be-
tween the two, but though it may not be superior
or even equal to its parents as an early spring-
flowering shrub, it will be always welcome. An
award of merit was given this on March 27.

Rhododendron Princess William of Wur-
temburg. — Little seems to be known concerning
the origin of this Rhododendron, but it is cer-
tainly a very distinct and telling variety. As
shown it is of a sturdy, compact style of growth,
while tbe flowers are borne in large trusses. The
colour of the flowers is white, densely spotted and
barred with crimson — quite a distinct feature
among hardy Rhododendrons. A first-class cer-
tificate was awarded to it on April 24.

Rhododendron rhombicum. — Thiswas formerly
known under the generic name of Azalea and is a

decidedly pretty early-flowering shrub. In colour
R. rhombicum is a good deal like the North Ame-
rican Rhodora canadensis, but it forms altogether
a more compact and bolder growing bush, while
the flowers are much larger and better shaped,
added to which they are of a brighter tint of rosy
purple than those of the Rhodora. Rhododendron
rhombicum may be looked upon as the first of the
hardy Azaleas to unfold its blossoms. It has been
long known in this country, but except at Kew,
from whence the specimens came that received an
award of merit on April 24, it is very rarely met
with. This Rhododendron is a native of Japan,
and in the island of Niphon it is said to be plen-
tiful.

Rhododendron Rosy Bell.— This is one of the
many hybiids raised, I believe, by Messrs. Davies,
of Ormskirk, to whom we are indebted for that
beautiful earlv-flowering variety precox, which
has now become so popular. R. Rosy Bell, which
evidently claims parentage from R. ciliatum, is a
dwarf, compact-growing plant with dark green
Myrtle-like foliage. The flowers, which are rather
blunt in shape and widely expanded at the mouth,
are each from 14 inches 'to 2 inches in diameter,
and in the bud state of a deep reddish pink
colour, which after they open becomes much
paler. The interior of the flower is of a delicate
blush, almost white. The blooms, which are
borne in clusters well above the foliage, are
slightly drooping or arranged in a nearly hori-
zontal'manner, and a pretty effect is produced by
the contrast in colour between the unopened buds
and the expanded blossoms, as well as by the
crisped edges of the petals. An award of merit
was bestowed upon it on April 24.

P\-rds si'Ec'TAiiii.is magnifica. — The Chinese
Crab (Pyrus spectabilis) is well known as one of
the most beautiful of our early-flowering trees,
and this form when better known will no doubt
be much sought after. The flowers are larger
and bolder than those of the type, while they arc
also somewhat deeper in colour. It was given an
award of merit on April 24.

Exochorda Alberti.— This Turkestan species
of Exochorda, which has been introduced through
the Russian gardens, differs a good deal from the
better-known Exochorda grandiflora. It is of a
stiffer and more upright habit of growth, while
the leaves are rather longer and of a deeper green.
The individual blooms are a good deal in the way
of those of E. grandiflora, but they are borne in
an erect, rather closely packed spike ; whereas
those of E. grandiflora are arranged in a far looser
manner. E. Alberti received an award of merit
on April 24.

Rhododendron High Beech Hybrid.— This
was announced as a hybrid between R. Fortunei
and R. Mrs. C. Butler. It is certainly a very
pretty Rhododendron with salmon-pink blossoms,
which are vary sweetly scented.

Lilac Mme. Lemoine.— This is one of the
many double-flowered Lilacs raised by M. Le-
moine, of Nancy. It differs from those previously
grown in the flowers being pure white, and on
this account as well as the duplex character of its
blossoms it will doubtless become popular.

Lilac Souvenir de Louis Sr.vrii.— This is by
no means a novelty, but it is one of the best of
the rich deep-coloured single varieties, and on
that account received, as well as the vaiiety Mme.
Lemoine just mentioned, a first-class certificate
on May 8. ,

Lilac fyramidale.— Another of Lemoine s
double varieties with massive panicles of bloom,
purple in the bud state, but bluish liiac when
fully expanded. There are so many of these
double Lilacs now, that it is difficult to see the
difference between them.

Lilac Geant des Batailles.— This is by no
means a novelty, but it is a good single-flowered
form, purple in the bud state, changing on expan-
sion to a kind of rosy lilac. These last two forms
received awards of merit on May 8.

Pieris Formosa.— This is a highly ornamental
evergreen shrub, introduced from Nepaul in 1881.
It is, however, hardy only in the favoured dis-
tricts of England and in Ireland. It forme a

large, bold-growing bush somewhat like an Ar-
butus. The flowers, which are borne in terminal
branching panicles, are white, slightly tinged
green. They are urn-shaped, and, in common
with several of their allies, are of a thick wax-
like texture. The genus Pieris is nearly allied to
Andromeda. An award of merit was bestowed
upon Pieris formosa on May 8, the specimens
having been sent from Glasnevin.

Magnolia parviflora.— This is certainly one
of the best flowering shrubs certificated during
the year 1S94. M. parviflora is a freely-branched
species, clothed with broadly ovate leaves of a
deep green tint and 3 inches to 4 inches long.
The flowers, which are about 5 inches in diameter,
are white, becoming slightly tinged after ex-
pansion, while a conspicuous feature is formed by
the cluster of crimson stamens in the centre of the
flower. For this Magnolia we are indebted to
Messrs. Veitch.

Wistaria multijuga.— Some fifteen years ago
a deal of attention was directed to this Wistaria,
it being at times spoken of as superior to the old
and well-known W. sinensis. Among other quali-
ties claimed for it was the fact that the flower
racemes reached a length of 1 yard. Time has,
however, proved that it is not so free flowering as
the old kind, and the flowers are much smaller
and distributed at wider intervals on the stem, so
that it is not nearly so showy as the typical W.
sinensis. At the same time it is both pretty and
interesting, and some racemes of it shown at the
Temple show when it received an award of merit
were about 30 inches long.

Rhododendron Snowflake.— A standard plant
of this Rhododendron was very showy by reason
of the profusion of its large white blossoms, lhe
only colouring consisted of a few reddish dots on
the interior of the upper part of the flower.

Rhododendron Duke of York. —A showy
variety of a rosy-pink, with brown spots on the
upper segments.

Rhododendron Duchess of Yobk.— Salmon-
pink, margins flushed rosy-pink, upper petals
spotted green. These last two varieties resulted
from the intercrossing of R. Fortunei and the
garden variety Scipio.andto both awards of merit
were given. ,. . .

Fagus rotundifolia.— This is a very distinct
Beech, the leaves being less than 1 inch in
diameter and of a very deep green tint. It is ot
a close, upright habit of growth, and presents
altogether a very uncommon appearance. A: tirs t-
class certificate was awarded to it on June 1-.

Sycamore, Crimson-fruited.— The Sycamore
is a somewhat varied subject, and in this particular
form the fruits are of a bright crimson co our, -
which renders it very telling. It received an
award of merit on June 12.

Rubus japonicus TRicoLOR.-This is a slender
growing Bramble with very decided variation.
The young stems and leaf petioles are of a bright
rose colour, while the leaves, which vary from
cordate to three-lobed, are variegated in different
wavs. Some of the leaves are marked with green
and white in about equal proportions, while in
many, the younger ones especially, the white pre-
dominates, and in addition to this the youngest
leases are suffused with pink. As shown, this
Rubus at a little distance reminded me very much
of Vitis heterophylla variegata. It received a
first-class certificate on July 10.

Rubus PHreNicOLASius.-Under the name of the
great Japanese Wineberry tins has attracted a
food deal of attention within the last few yeai s
It is a bold, strong -growing, Raspberry- like
species, the leaves of which consist of thre* , h art-
shaped leaflets, dark green above and wh tish
unTerneath. The stems, and ^eparticn^rly
thevoung shoots, are densely clothed with long
reddish hairs, thus imparting a very striking
eature to the' plant. .1" the ,winte, -when devoid
of foliage this is especially noticeable The fruits
are a good deal in the way of small KaepWes,
and red when ripe. It was introduced in 1877,
but it is onlv within the last few years that any
Articular attention has been directed towards it

74

THE GARDEN.

[February 2, 1895.

as a fruit-bearing subject. On August 14 it was
awarded a first-class certificate.

Acer purpurascens Nizbtti. — This is a form
of the Sycamore with the undersides of the leaves
purplish red, the upper part being green, blotched
in an irregular manner with cream. The leaf-
stalks are red. This is seen at its best in the
spring soon after the leaves are expanded, but an
award of merit was given it on September 25 at
the Chiswick conference.

Ilex Aquifoi.ium Lawsoniana.— This is a very
pretty Holly, but by no means a novelty. The
leaves, which are very sparingly furnished with
prickles, are oval in shape and of an olive green
towards the margins, the centre being blotched
with yellow and bright green disposed in a very
irregular manner.

Veronica cupressoipes. — This is one of the
curious Whipcord Veronicas, the members of
which to a casual observer bear a far greater
amount of resemblance to a small-growing conifer,
such as some of the Retinosporas, than they do to
a Veronica. In these the leaves are limited to
small scales closely adpressed to the stem, exactly
as in many of the Conifene. V. cupressoides is up-
right in growth, very much branched, and of a
bright green tint.

Veronica salicornioides. — This isdwarfer and
of a more spreading habit than the last, the colour
being light green tinged with yellow.

Veronica lvcopodioides. — This is a little dense
growing species with tiny dark green leaves
arranged in four rows. These three Veronicas
were awarded first-class certificates on September
25.

Vitis Coignetije. — This large-leaved Japanese
Vine has attracted a good dsal of attention within
the last year or two, a question among others that
has arisen being whether it is distinct from the
many species now in cultivation. The gorgeous
autumn display furnished by a large Vine at
Knap Hill has been told over and over again, and it
is by some regarded as Vitis G'oignetue, but at the
same time it appears somewhat different from
Messrs. Veitch's specimens. At all events it will
serve to direct attention to the great beauty of
these large-leaved Vines, which will lend them-
selves to many bold anangements. T.

Abies pungens glauca.— The type of this
beautiful Fir is one of the very best of the Ameri-
can Spruces. This is an exceedingly well-marked
glaucous form, in every respect most distinct. It
has on several occasions been shown at important
meetings during the past year or two, always be-
ing an attractive feature by reason of its silvery-
grey shade of colour overlaid with a bluish
tint. As a specimen plant for the pleasure
grounds or for avenue planting it will undoubtedly
be much sought after as it becomes better known.
Compared with A. nobilis glauca, it is, in my
opinion, much the superior plant, being of more
regular outline and superior growth, whilst its
glaucous tint is deeper. From notes taken I should
consider that it will be found to thrive well upon
somewhat light soils, provided there is sufficient
moisture. — G. H. A.

Sciadopitys verticillata.— Like your corre-
spondent "G." (p. 32), I am of opinion that the
reason this beautiful conifer is not more often seen
in a flourishing condition is that it is frequently
planted in too dry a situation, and it also seems to
dislike removal. A soil partially composed of
vegetable matter, more especially thoroughly de-
cayed leaf-mould, suits it well, and perhaps this
is owing to the fact that such a compost retains
moisture for a longer period than soils which con-
sist of light sandy loam, which prevails in so
many places. At Kew, where many conifers are
by no means seen at their best, there is a specimen
of the Umbrella Pine in a very thriving state.
It is planted in a cool, moist, but at the same time
by no means waterlogged spot and progresses in
a very satisfactory manner. The deep rich green
tint is very characteristic of this Sciadopity:- when
in a thriving state. In this country, however, its
rate of progress is but slow, and it will lake a very

long time to attain the height of 100 feet, which
it is said to do in Japan. The Umbrella Pine was
first introduced by Messrs. Veitch about thirty-
five years ago, and it still forms a prominent
feature at their Coombe Wood nursery. It seems
to be quite proof against our English winters.
Gordon speaks of several varieties being in culti-
vation in Japan, but, with the exception of one
with variegated leaves, they do not appear to have
reached this country, though among the speci-
mens met with, individual differences, of course,
occur. The variegated-leaved form which was
introduced by Fortune with so many other varie-
gated-foliaged subjects had yellow leaves inter-
spersed with those of the normal tint, and some-
times the variegation extended over half of the
leaf, the rest being green. This variegated va-
riety was very generally met with about twenty-
five to thirty years ago in the collections of choice
variegated plants then so popular, but it now
seems to have almost dropped out of cultivation.
A great drawback was its liability to revert to the
type.— T.

Hedera maderiensis variegata. — No doubt
the majority of the readers of The Garden have
proved the great value of this Ivy for the open.
But is its worth so fully or so abundantly realised
in the greenhouse and conservatory, and particu-
larly during the dull season of the year ? What
could be brighter at this time than some well-
coloured examples around the roof supports in the
greenhouse or similar structure ? At any time it
is one of the most ornamental, and where grown
in a cool, or even cold house in winter it is
doubly valuable. By reason of its attractive
foliage some pot plants may be turned to good
account for the embellishment of entrance halls,
or even in parts of the mansion itself. Thus used
they would relieve the monotonous greenery of
Palms, Ficus and evergreen shrubs. Many years
ago, prior to its distribution, I called at Messrs.
Osborne's nursery at Fulham, and was shown a
house filled with young plants almost 2 feet high.
As there seen the house was as effective as if
filled with flowering plants, save for the same-
ness. Plants of similar size, however, and well
coloured should surely prove of great service to
the gardener and floral decorator alike, especially
when flowering plants in pots are scarce. — E. J.

JANUARY FLOWERING SHRUBS.

Given fairly mild open weather during the month
of January, there will be (especially if it has not
been very sharp before that time) several of our
hardy shrubs whose blossoms will tend to lighten
a dull winter's day. A comparatively uncommon
subject, but one that is rapidly making its way in
popular favour, is the Japanese Witch Hazel
(Hamamelis arborea), which, though it attains the
dimensions of a small tree, will yet flower freely
as a shrub. The peculiar starry blossoms of a
yellow hue with which the leafless twigs are
crowded furnish a striking and uncommon fea-
ture. The general appearance is well shown in
The Garden, June 13,' 1891, where there is a col-
oured plate of H. arborea. A sharp frost will destroy
the full expanded blossoms, but a few mild days
cause others to open and take their place. In the
event of January being a very cold month this
Hamamelis will not, as a rule, bloom till Feb-
ruary. H. arborea is the best of the Witch
Hazels, there being a smaller growing species
(H. japonica) with paler blossoms that flowers,
as a rule, about a month later. In some seasons
that variety of the Mezereon known as autumn-
alis, or grandiflora, will bloom well in the month
of January, and at other times it is over by
Christmas. Should the weather be mild, how-
ever, the earliest blossoms of the typical kind will
by the end of the month be well advanced to-
wards opening. The Laurustinus has been flower-
ing grandly this season, and where not cut by
recent frosts it occupies a prominent place
among January flowering shrubs. Berberis, or Ma-
honia japonica often has its long spikes of lemon-

tinted blossoms expanded by the new year, and
during the second month the golden flowers of its
North American relative, Berberis Aquifolium,
commence to open. This last is one of the most
beautiful of all our flowering shrubs, but its
merits in this respect are very apt to be over-
looked because it is so common. Where pro-
tected by a wall we may note several other sub-
jects, the first of which, the Winter Jasmine (Jas-
minum nudiflorum), has been long in flower,
while the deliciously fragrant blossoms of Chimc-
nanthus fragrans are now expanding. They a:e
not showy, but their perfume is very pleasing,
and if a few sprays are cut just as the buds ate
bursting, they will open beautifully in water and
fill a room with their fragrance. The Japan
Quince (Cydonia japonica) will on a sunny wall
be opening its earliest blossoms, and a bright
object this forms in the depth of winter. Where
they can be spared, some sprays of these cut as
above noted in the case of the Chimonanthus will
be pretty objects indoors. As the season advances
other shrubs will expand their blossoms, and fol-
lowing the above most closely, we have those two
sweet-scented Honeysuckles with white flowers —
Lonicera fragrantissima and L. Standishi, both of
which need the protection of a wall, and tho
Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas). In this the in-
florescence assumes the shape of little tufts of
bright yellow blossoms, and being thickly disposed
on the twigs, they are, when nearly everything
else is bare, very attractive. Of dwarf plants of
a shrubby character we have the pretty little
Winter Heath (Erica carnea or herbacea), whose
bright-coloured blossoms form a very charming
feature. The white variety is also very pretty,
though less showy than the typical kind. This
little Heath will continue to flower for months
together, and much the same may be said of some
of the other subjects above mentioned, especially
the Japan Quince. H. P.

Saxifraga cotyledon varieties for pots.—

As a pot plant for the conservatory and greenhouse
very few members of this genus can surpass this
species and its varieties. Of these latter the most
beautiful perhaps is that known in gardens as
S. nepalensis, a charming plant when seen in good
condition, and producing its great rosettes of
silvery leaves fully 15 inches across. In moist
sandy soil I have seen them even larger than
this, the huge pyramid of white blossom at the
base reaching almost to the extreme of the leaves.
Indeed, this appears a characteristic of this va-
rietv, which one does not often see. Another
point of distinction is the graduated form of the
pyramid from base to summit. Some of the finest
examples of this I have over seen were grown in
the late Mr. Parker's nursery at Tooting many
years ago. The flower-spike is from 18 inches to
20 inches high, forming a perfect pyramid
Another good kind is S. pyramidalis, which is
much more frequently seen in cultivation. In thi-s
the rosettes are more clustered and the leaves
more erect, shorter and blunter than in the pre-
ceding. This variety, in my experience, has not
the branching habit of S. nepalensis, nor do the
flower-spikes possess the perfect pyramidal form
of that kind, the flower spike for the first 4 inches
or so being usually bare, developing eventually
into a somewhat taller and denser plume-like
pyramid. It is quite easy to increase the type
and S. pyramidalis by division, while S. nepalensis
can be best increased by offsets, which are pro-
duced at the base of the flowering rosettes. The
offsets make greater progress if dibbled out into
sandy loam a few inches apart. When grown in
pots these should always be freely drained, and in
addition to the sandy loam — which should con-
stitute the bulk of the soil— some broken brick or
old mortar rubbish will be found beneficial.
Always pot firmly and avoid over-much water at
the root. The size of pot must be regulated by
the plants. Quantities of medium sized plants
are grown for market in pots 6 inches across. —
E. J.

February 2, 18i)5.]

THE GAKDEN

75

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

GLOU MORCEAU PEAR.

The demand for this well-known Pear has
been keener than usual this season, as many
varieties have been of poor flavour or have
failed to keep. Glou Morceau is an exception
with me this year, being now in daily use for
dessert and of very good quality. The fruit
from both wall and bush trees is alike excellent,
and a variety that is of superior flavour and a
sound keeper in a notoriously bad season is
worthy of special notice. Few varieties are so
certain in cropping both in cold and warm dis-
tricts if on the right stock. When I was fore-
man at a well-known place in Staffordshire we
had bush trees of Glou Morceau worked on the
Quince that seldom failed to bear fair crops, in
spite of a bleak district and a wretchedly cold
soil. The trees were simply put on the level
ground, staked, and good soil brought and placed
over the roots, thus forming raised mounds,
afterwards mulching annually with farmyard
manure. Those who have to contend with cold
soils might adopt the same plan, procuring
trees worked on the Quince, as it is the must
suitable stock for such soils. The roots keep
near the surface in search of the food contained
in the mulchings, and will not descend into the
cold and poor soil lower down unless actually
forced by poverty. On warmer and deeper soils
Glou Morceau grows and produces heavy crops
on the Pear stock. For the first few years it
may grow rampantly, but if the shoots are
allowed to remain their full length or nearly so,
fruit buds will be formed the whole length, and
the crop of fruit will effectively check any exu-
berance. This applies equally to wall or other
trees out in the open, and is much to be pre-
ferred to root pruning. Many Pears are inferior
in flavour if grown to a large size, but the finer
Glou Morceau is, the better the quality in
this neighbourhood, and those people who desire
exceptionally large fruit have a good oppor-
tunity to secure them from wall trees by thinning
them out while small to C or 8 inches apart each
way and mulching with manure ; also giving
occasional soakings of liquid manure. Trees
worked on the Quince are very grateful for
these applications, deriving more benefit there-
from than trees on the Pear stock.

W. G. C.

Apple Lane's Prince Albert.— I quite agree
with " E. M.'s" note (p. 36) as to canker not
usually attacking this Apple. I have during the
last week looked over eighty trees, which show no
symptoms of disease. The tree that I alluded to
(p. 23) was one of a lot of thirteen, all of different
kinds, which were planted in heavy, damp, and
partially shaded ground as an experiment, with a
view to seeing which sorts stood the test best.
Lane's Prince Albert has fared better than seven
of the sorts and worse than five, the only one
that is thoroughly satisfactory being Duchess of
Oldenburg. The situation is exceptional, and
would not be chosen except for experimental pur-
poses, the bark of the trees becoming emerald-
green every year and having to be cleansed with
dressings every winter. — S. W. F.

Digging round fruit trees. — At page 24
" Y. A. H." condemns the practice of digging too
near the stems of fruit trees on walls. I (mite
agree with his remarks, and would advise that the
soil be simply pricked over, so as to break the hard
crust caused by repeated treading. This is my
plan, doing it at the beginning of the new year,
afterwards sprinkling on a little artificial manure,
and finally mulching with spent hot-bed mate-
rial. By this means the surface roots are pre-
served, fed, and rapidly increased. I do not hold
with the too common practice of mulching fruit

trees in autumn, especially on retentive soils and
with strong green manure. This has a tendency to
keep the surface raw and cold and to drive the
roots in a downward direction. Spring mulching
is far preferable. — J. C.

Too many Apples. — The Royal Horticultural
Society would benefit the fruit-growing com-
munity of Great Britain if it would reduce the
number of sorts of Apples which are now ottered
by nurserymen to the public, and establish on an
authoritative basis those which are most likely
to be remunerative to the planter. This is not
difficult, as the members of the fruit committee
assemble from various parts of the country. Sup-
posing that the best part of the sale period for
Apples lasts from July to the end of March, a

fruit. Many other kitchen Apples are equally
good, and if these are mixed with dessert sorts,
such as Cox's Orange, Mother, and other kinds, a
very superior drink can be made, thus giving two
chances of employing an abundant crop. — T. F.
Rivers, Sawbrtdgeworth, Jan. 15. — Field.

Part of a tree of Glua Morceau Pea,

period of nine months, three sorts of Apples per
month, or even less, would be quite sufficient ;
but in any case the number of Apples may be re-
duced to thirty-six, allowing a surplus for the
prejudices and possibly the practical experience
of planters in many localities, who are certain to
adhere to the knowledge gained from experience.
It would not be difficult for the fruit committee
to select those kinds which can be honestly re-
commended to the public. It does not seem to
be generally known that all Apples of good
quality will make good cider. It is not at all
necessary to plant the so-called cider Apples.
Probably these were originally chosen because
they will bear any amount of rough usage. The
Apple known as Rymer is a first-rate cider-
making Apole it is usually grown as a kitchen

APPLES AND CANKER.
Apple King ok the Pippins, mentioned by Mr.
Wythes at p. 22, did remarkably well in poor soil
with me some years ago, and it has been my best
dessert Apple this year, as Cox's Orange Pippin
has failed in different parts of the garden. I can-
not understand the experience of "'S. W. F." as
to Apples being more liable to canker on the
Paradise than on the Crab stock.
He does not seem very positive,
and probably has not given the
matter much attention. I have
proved again and again that the
best way to prevent canker in
Apple trees is to prepare the
ground well by trenching it to a
depth of 2 feet, less or more
according to the nature of the
soil. Very often IS inches is as
deep as it is possible to go, and
whether the trees are grafted on
the Crab or the Paradise stock
they ought to be healthy, well-
rooted trees to begin with. Many
trees are neither healthy nor well
rooted, and if such are planted in
ground that has not had any pre-
paration, the wonder would be
that they did not canker.

In healthy, well-rooted trees
grown in well-prepared soil I am
confident that canker will not be
likely to appear, except in the
case of a very few varieties whicli
are peculiarly liable to tins
disease. The only three I have
had any trouble with have been
Wellington, Cellini and Ribston
Pippin. We can do without Cel-
lini, and the way I have cured
the disease on the others has
simply been to lift the roots up
nearer the surface, and instead of
filling in all the old soil during
this process I make up with fresh
loam that has not been near the
roots of Apple trees. Of course,
this cure is applied as soon as it
is seen that canker is present.
Let anyone try this on certain
trees and leave others cankered
in the same way without inter-
fering with the roots, and the
result will be convincing. The
reason why trees on the Paradise
stock are not so liable to canker
as those on the Crab is doubtless
owing to the fact that the former
have the greater tendency to root
near the surface, and cultivators
acting on this assumption spread
the roots out well near the surface
when planting them ; moreover, the downward
tendency of the roots is checked by mulch-
ing qver the surface where the roots are with
a slight dressing of manure during the sum-
mer months. All roots have a natural tendency
to travel where they can get the best food. Sur-
face roots push freely from the main stem of the
Paradise stock quite up to the union of the graft
with the scion, and the fine white roots may be
seen pushing into the moist mulch even above the
surface of the ground. This does not occur with
the trees worked on the Crab stock ; they are all
to be found working deeper and deeper into the
poor, damp, and ofttimes wet subsoil, a state i
things which is sure to produce canker. I always
advise planters when setting out their trees on
the Paradise stock to plant quite up to the union

7G

THE GARDEN.

[February 2, 1895.

of the stock with the scion. In this case roots
are produced freely from the main stem up to the
point of connection. I grow all mentioned by
" S. W. F." at p. 2.'J, with the exception of King
of Tompkins County. Bismarck is a good bearer
now that it has become established, but it is quite
second-rate as regards cooking qualities. As the
fruit is good looking it might do to sell, and
might be purchased by those who did not exactly
know what they were buying. Lane's Prince
Albert is one of the very best, but the trees on
the Paradise cannot get up amongst the others ;
the yearly weight of fruit they have to bear is
enough to dwarf the trees into mere pigmies. I
have planted some on the Crab stock, and pro-
bably this will throw more vigour into them.

J. Douglas.

DESSERT APPLES.

Many of the Apples of recent introduction, al-
though conspicuous for size and external beauty,
certainly lack quality as compared with older
varieties. This deficiency is more noticeable in
the dessert varieties. Moreover, many of the
newer kinds will not keep any time after they are
ripe, while the cropping qualities and general
constitution of the trees are not such as to war-
rant their being freely planted in any but the
most favoured districts. The earliest Apple I
know of is the White Juneating-, which ripens
about the end of June in the south and the first
week in July in the garden here. It is below
medium size and creamy white in colour, but I
cannot say much for the flavour, it being rather
too acid to be pleasant. It is, however, a most
continuous cropper in any form, doing well with
me as an espalier. The next to succeed it is Glad-
stone, but this Apple, although handsome when
exposed to the sun, is very disappointing, and
even when eaten from the tree is often mealy and
flavourless. One tree of it is quite sufficient in any
garden. Lady Sudeley, somewhat recently intro-
duced, is perhaps the handsomest dessert Apple
ripening in early autumn, but, like the foregoing,
it will not keep long, although if eaten within a
week after being gathered it is crisp, juicy and
excellent. My only experience of it is in the
horizontal cordon form, where it grows freely
enough, but fruits shyly, and from what I learn
from other sources I am afraid its culture will
never become general. Perhaps, however, it may
crop better further south than with me. In my
opinion that showy little Apple Beauty of Bath
will be the early dessert variety of the future.
Xot only has it symmetry, colour and very good
flavour, but the fruit will remain firm and juicy
after the majority of autumn Apples have become
useless. The tree bears well in any form, hun-
dreds having been planted in the bush form dur-
ing the last two years, the fruit from espaliers
being quite a picture. Worcester Pearmain was
very popular for a year or two, but its treacherous
character as a keeper was soon discovered, few
market growers planting it now-a-days. Per-
haps the most reliable dessert Apple, all points
considered, is the old King of the Pippins.
It does well in any district, and quickly grows
into a large tree. No fault can be found with
the flavour, while it will keep in saleable con-
dition for several months. As a rule, too much
praise is accorded Cox's Orange Pippin. This
Apple is very particular as to soil and locality, is
slow in coming into bearing, while the blossom is
extremely tender. Its capricious character is
proved by the fact that it is never seen in any
quantity in the market. I have occasionally
seen fair crops on light soils, and the flavour is
■oc the finest. Ribston Pippin, esteemed by all
for its rich aromatic flavour, seldom makes a
large tree, as it usually falls a victim to canker
in its worst form two or three years after being
planted. The finest fruit is produced from espa-
liers grown in a sandy soil, but last year I saw a
large standard growing in the orchard at Ossing-
ton Hall, twelve miles from here, apparently very
old, but healthy and loaded with the largest fruit
have ever seen of this variety. The situation

was high, though sheltered, and the soil well
drained. Margil. a small Apple similar to Rib-
ston in flavour, but superior in my opinion, is
seldom met with now, its chief fault also being
canker. If grown on a warm soil and lifted once or
twice, say the second and fourth year after plant-
ing, this malady is not so likely to appear, the great
point being to keep the roots near the surface.
It should be worked on the Paradise stock. The
only cure for canker is said by some to lie in lift-
ing the trees and bringing old roots near the sun's
warmth, but a practical fruit grower assured me
last year that he had dressed all his cankered
Apple trees with " soluble paraffin," with the
result that the malady entirely disappeared and a
healthy and vigorous growth followed. If this
be so, these high-flavoured, though capricious.
Apples may yet be grown with more certainty
than heretofore. Really good late dessert Apples
are, perhaps, the scarcest of all, but Pearn's
Pippin, a constant cropper, in the way of Blen-
heim, but smaller, and suited to all climates ;
Spice d'Arey, sometimes called Baddow Pippin,
an Essex Apple, small, but delicious, and a good
bearer ; Stunner Pippin and Court Pendu Plat
may be planted with confidence. The last-named
is so late in blooming, that it seldom gets injured
by frost. I have seen good showy and well-
flavoured fruit from trees about Bury St. Ed-
munds. It keeps sound and plump till May.
King of Tompkins County, an American Apple,
large, showy, and of extra good quality, must be
mentioned. Very few large Apples are so richly
flavoured, but although my experience of it is
limited to cordons, I learn from good authority
that it is tender, and never likely to become a
market Apple, at any rate so far as English
grown fruit is concerned. Could we but impart
to it the cropping powers of Lane's Prince Albert,
it would indeed be an acquisition. Lastly, that
good old-fashioned late Apple Scarlet Nonpareil
should be grown in every orchard and garden. I
saw a beautiful dish at Eari's Court exhibition in
May, 1892, as plump and fresh as could be de-
sired. Its rich scarlet colour and good flavour
are further poinds in its favour.

J. Crawford.

Grape Muscat Hamburgh.— The interesting
notes that have appeared in The Garden recently
should be helpful to growers, more so if the writer
would in all instances give soil and under what
conditions the Vines are growing. About fifteen
years ago this kind used to be grown well at
Farnboro' Hill, Hants. I well remember seeing
bunches of it from 4 lbs. to C lbs. in weight,
perfect in colour, and not in the least shanked.
Mr. McLaurin, the gardener, considered it wanted
a warm open border. No doubt the dry nature
of the soil was favourable to it. The border,
which was an outside one, was heavily mulched
and kept well watered in dry weather. — J. Crook.

Apple Mannington's Pearmain. — I have a
pyramid tree of this, and for the last four years it
has never failed to crop, although growing in an
exposed condition. I am now — January 26 — send-
ing it to the table, and very good it is. The flesh
is yellow, tender, rich and juicy, and highly
flavoured. I find it desirable to allow it to hang
on the tree as long as possible, as it is apt to
shrivel if gathered too early. — J. Crook.

This is a valuable dessert fruit, as it re-
mains good well into March, and now the fruits
are delicious. It may not find favour with those
who prefer a large Pear, but it is large enough
for dessert and one of the best flavoured fruits
in season at this date. Of varieties of Apples we
have too many, but this is one of the kinds we
want more of. It does well as a pyramid or bush.
It is not a strong grower, being compact and well
suited for a restricted area. The fruits are
greenish-yellow, with a brighter colour on the
sunny side and russet markings. To keep it well
into the spring the fruit should be left on the trees
as late as possible, as if gathered early or kept in
a warm store, it shrivels bally and loses flavour.
It thiives well in light soil and fruits freely in a

small state. I have cordon trees of this variety
which fruited the second season after planting. —
G. Wythes.

Flower Garden.

1894 IN SOUTH DEVON.

In looking back over the last twelve months,
and critically assessing the merits and demerits
of 1894, it is impossible to arrive at a conclusion
other than that its drawbacks in the way of
weather considerably outweighed its advan-
tages. The year commenced with bitter east
wind and frost that sent the thermometer on
the Grass down to 11'. Then came the snow —
15 inches deep over everything. Then a rapid
thaw and mild weather until almost the end of
February. March was dry and cold without
any great range of temperature. April was the
only really satisfactory month of the twelve —
absolutely frostless ; a month in which the
winds were quiet, a fair amount of rain fell,
and everything promised well for a prosperous
year. This hope was soon dispelled, for May
was cold and windy, with a frost on the 21st,
which, however, was too light to do any
damage to speak of in this particular neigh-
bourhood. June was more windy than May,
and cold until the last week. July and August
were likewise very windy and unsummer-like,
and with the last day of August the last hope
of summer vanished. September was fine and
still, but colder than the average for the month,
while October, November, and December were
unseasonably warm, the first two beiDg also
extremely wet.

The season has been an extended one for
flowers, Dog Roses having been picked on May
9, and perfect buds of Safrano from the open
wall on December 30. Magnolia grandiflora
was in bloom for nearly six months, the first
blossom opening towards the end of June and
the last being cut on December 2. Heliotropes
that had been left out remained unhurt by the
frost until the last day of the year, but in
spite of its length the flower season was un-
satisfactory, winds, rain, and the ungenial
weather militating against an effective displa}-.
Subtropical flowering plants, such as Hedy-
chiums and Canna iridiflora Ehmanni, were
far inferior both in leafage and bloom to what
they were in 1893. Clumps of Agapanthus urn-
bellatus planted out, which have flowered well
in other years, showed no signs of bloom-spikes
this year, and the season of beauty of Phacelia
campanularia was cut short prematurely.

We are now experiencing the effect of the
season on certain bulbs and tubers. Freesia
refracta alba has, seemingly, refused to ripen at
all, a large collection of this charming Cape
bulb which year after year has given an abun-
dant harvest of deliriously scented blooms soon
after Christmas having thrown up but a soli-
tary flower-scape here and there, and Arums
which are grown in quantity and particularly
well at an establishment in the vicinity have
not flowered so unsatisfactorily for ten winters ;
while doubtless the damp was a predisposing
cause in the case of the Lilium candidum
disease, which was rampant during the past
summer.

What legacy has been left us by 1894, as far
as the present year's crop is concerned, will not
be known yet awhile, but it is well not to be too
sanguine as to the result. For plantations of
young fruit trees made in the winter of 1893-
94 there is no doubt that the past year has been
favourable, as they have taken hold of the
ground well and have made fine growth. In

February 2, 1895 ]

THE GARDEN

77

the flower garden, too, there are bright spots to
turn to, the Bamboos and shrubbery Spirreas
having grown remarkably, and many herbaceous
plants have been benefited by rather than suf-
fered from their late experiences.

Many vegetables, more especially Seakale,
have not been equal to the samples of 1803.
Outdoor Tomatoes were a complete failure. The
Pear crop was a very heavy one, and Apples,
from young trees on the Paradise, were plenti-
ful, with the exception of Cox's Orange Pippin,
of which, I understand, the crop was poor
throughout the country. Strawberries, although
untouched by the frost, were not so heavy a
crop as in 3803, but bush fruit was an aver-
age yield.

It is not seemly to speak ill of the departed.
We will, therefore, content ourselves with ex-
pressing a hope that 1805 may deal gently with
us, for most of us feel the need of a little indul-
gence after the rigorous, but doubtless salutary
lessons we have received from his blustering and
gloomy predecessor. S. W. F.

A NEW LYCHNIS.

The illustration represents a most beautiful
flower, which, unfortunately, like many other
good things, is the bearer of an absurdly long
nams. It is called Lychnis Fio>cuculi plenis-
sima Ad. Muss., and is very distinct from the
ordinary and well-known form of the double
Ragged Robin. The engraving was made from
a photograph of a plant growing in a sloping
rocky border in the nurseries of Messrs. R.
Veitch and Son, Exeter, where it has flowered
continuously from early summer till late in au-
tumn. Of its hardiness there can be no doubt,
as, in spite of its having been laden with an
abundance of flowers during the whole of last
summer, the plant has stood a severe winter
without protection of any kind, and at the time

sent no difficulties whatever, as I saw it
flourishing in ordinary somewhat heavy loam
mixed with a few stones. The plant is still
scarce, but it is sure to become a general
favourite. The only thing against it is its
name, and it is to be hoped that this will be
changed to Lychnis fimbriata, L. laciniata, or
some other short appellation more suitable and
expressive than the one given above. For a
popular name perhaps Fringed Lychnis might
do. M.

A new fringed variety of the double Ragged
Robin. Engraved fur The Garden from a
photograph sent by Mr. F. II". Meyer, Exeter.

of writing (January) is already pushing forth
its young growth for the coming season.

The plant when in bloom forms a handsome
bush about 18 inches high and 2 feet in dia-
meter. The foliage is like that of its relative,
the Ragged Robin, but the flowers, which are
borne in loose panicles, are very much larger,
very double, and beautifully fringed. The col-
our is a bright pink, and its wealth of flowers is
almost phenomenal. Its culture seems to pre-

CHRISTMAS ROSES.

Hellebords nicer angusttfolius, ore would
think, could not be much excelled when teen well
grown and clean. There are good varieties I
know, the flowers of good form, and if not quite
pure, the tints can scarcely be considered faults,
but in most kinds excepting this one there
is to my mind a feature of coarseness in
the dark coloured stems, bracts, and often
the under parts of the sepals. It is because
this kind has clear, pale, delicate, or apple-
green stems, and flowers of the snowiest
whiteness without tint and of good size
and shape withal that I value it. Moreover,
unlike most vars. of niger, it produces as
a rule long scapes. In the Bath variety
and several others }OU would scarcely get
the convenient long stem without the aid
of hand-glasses or the forcing pits. I do
not know after all that the long stems when
normally grown are of much moment, be-
cause if you want to keep your Christmas
Roses clean and serviceable, the shelter
needful for clean flowers helps to secure this
feature by drawing out the scapes of all
the varieties. Another good quality I
like in this kind is its robustness, and the
facility, owing to its free habit of growth,
with which it can be propagated and trans-
planted. Perhaps the readiest and most
profitable way of dealing with it is to
arrange the plants so that they can be
covered with ordinary garden frames or
lights. In November or earlier all that
would be necessary would be to give a
dressing to the plants to clear them of
slugs, afterwards washing them down and
bringing over them the lights or cold
frame. This method secures perfect flowers
free from slug grazing and splashes, and
otherwise facilitates the future health of
the plant, for if the frame is left long
enough there can bo no doubt that the
dryness and partial protection from frost
will benefit the plants and keep their foli-
age in better condition.

The niger section of the genus Helleborus
is unmanageable in some districts. I have
heard from several correspondents in the western
counties that they cannot keep a presentable
plant of any of the Christmas Roses, and in
each case I know my correspondents to be ex-
pert gardeners. At the same time it is known
that in their gardens the other species of Helle-
borus, the so-called Lenten Roses, flourish. This
is a fact that can hardly be said to help one in
finding the cause for failure of the niger section,
though I believe that the two sections are widely
distinct botanically in many ways, and especially
in the features of their roots. I believe the facts
that are available on this subject are such, that,
were the causes of the failure of Helleborus niger
in certain districts to be investigated, they would
form data sufficient and reliable to go upon, and
I for one should feel very grateful for the views
of those who have studied the subject. Personally,
I have no difficulty whatever with any of the
Hellebores, but during twenty-five years of con-
siderable correspondence, and no time more than
the present season, I have heard laments that the
Christmas Roses cannot be grown successfully.
There is one simple mode of culture, which was
taught me by Mr. Moore, of Glasnevin, which
proves of great benefit to plants where they do

not otherwise refuse to grow in the above de-
scribed manner. It is that of planting at a fairly
good depth in land of deep tilth, and, when the
plants had become fairly established, mulching
annually with well-decayed manure or vegetable
soil. I am not for a moment suggesting this as a
mode of planting to meet the above-mentioned
difficulties, because I believe this and even more
have been done in trying to coax new plantings, but
I am sure of this, that it may be made the means
of invigorating old plants in a remarkable degree
and in a comparatively short space of time. I do
not care for manure being incorporated with the
soil when plants are first set out, and I always
give it on the surface. J. Wood.

THE SHOW AURICULA.

The Auricula fancier divides his favourite flower
into four sections, the green-edged, grey-edged,

,»*

Auricula Mrs. Moore.

white-edged and self-edged. None of the green-
edged varieties have farina on the leaves, and a
good green-edged variety should have none on
the edge of the corolla. All of them have, or
ought to have, a yellow or orange tube to the
corolla, and the centre of the flower should be
densely coated with farina ; next, a blackish or
deep purple irregular band, as seen in the wood-
cut, and the edge of green, grey, white or the
dark band entirely covers the margin, form-
ing a self edge. All the classes, except the
green-edged, have mealed or green foliage,
sometimes thinly laid on and in other instances
the meal so thick as to entirely cover the green
of the leaf underneath. No plai t is so easily
grown as the Auricula if it is not stifled under
glass. If the Auricula is grown under glass the
plants should be placed in ordinary garden
frames- The glass lights should only be used
to keep the plants from excessive wet. In dry
weather, even if cold, the lights ought to be
drawn off. Even when the plants are put into
glass houses in the spring air should be given
freely and the plants kept quite near the glass
roof. This nearness to the r. o ' promotes and

78

THE GARDEN.

| February 2, 1895.

maintains a healthy and compact growth. After
the last days of January the flower-trusses
appear. Most of the fanciers now-a-days have
light, airy glasshouses, and they place the plants
in these for the convenience of attending to
them and watching with some degree of comfort
the development of the trusses in inclement
weather. Most of them have a heating appa-
ratus to keep out frost merely. The potting
soil ought to be good decayed fibrous loam. 1
find the best is that obtained from a common
where Bracken grows. Add to it a fourth part
of decayed manure, with as much leaf-mould
and coarse Eand if necessary.

J. Douglas.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
Tufted Pansies. — The note in a recent number as

to the exceptional growth made by the majority of
herbaceous plants right through the closing months
of 18114 is especially true of tufted Pansies, an in-
spection of the beds showing that with one excep-
tion all varieties started away well from the plant-
ing, made capital growth, and arc now nice, bushy
little plants that, given favourable weather, will
be very early in flower. The exception is Duchess
of Fife, which, I regret to say, gets the disease
badly, and of which, consequently, good cuttings
are not easily obtainable. I notice with much
surprise that the recommendation is still occasion-
ally given to keep tufted Pansies in the cutting
bed until the spring and then plant out. It would
be interesting to know what are the exceptional
conditions that necessitate such treatment. It
cannot be that very severe weather is feared, for
they have come safely through a winter when for
several successive nights the glass has dropped to
within a few degrees of zero, and even a combina-
tion of damp and severe cold would hardly affect
such a moisture-loving plant. There are few
places in which treated as if thoroughly hardy
they will not do well, the exception being, per-
haps, in those flower gardens where the soil is
poor and dry and the subsoil very porous. Even
here, however, they can be grown with a fair
amount of success if a compost consisting of two
parts heavy road sidings and one of cow manure is
incorporated with the natural soil and the surface
gets a good mulching as soon as possible after
planting. If, on the other hand, the natural soil
is so heavy that it works badly, it is a good plan
to mix with it a liberal dose of spent Mushroom
manure and leaf soil in equal proportions. To se-
cure a long flowering season, cuttings should be
inserted in July or very early in August, shaded a
little, and kept thoroughly moist to secure a quick
formation of roots, and planted out as early in
October as the beds can be prepared. A mulching
of Mushroom or peat moss manure will be found
conducive to rapid growth and early development
of flower, and, as above stated, is specially to be re-
commended for light soils. Where the plants are
still in the cutting beds it is needless to say that
they should be transferred to permanent quarters
as soon as possible, lifting carefully to prevent
mutilation of the root. It may be noted that it is
the safer plan to make sure of cuttings rather than
trust to later propagation by division when a con-
siderable increase in the stock is contemplated.
This latter is, of course, always practicable with
the Violetta type and a few stronger varieties, but
there are many now included among tufted Pan-
sies that are hardly more amenable to propagation
by division than the true Pansy.

Carnations. — Nearly all remarks made on
tufted Pansies are applicable to Carnations. The
best display is always obtained from plants that
are put out early in autumn, and if suitable soil is
provided, early layering practised and due atten-
tion given, there is not much difficulty in securing
good plants at that time, especially in a season
like 1894, when an over-average rainfall was con-
ducive to early root-formation. If planting was
left over from the autumn, it should be put in hand
as soon as the state of the weather and condition
of the ground will permit. It is the knowledge

that in some seasons such conditions are not
obtainable until February is well advanced that is
one strong argument in favour of autumn plant-
ing. Only on one or two occasions, when the
summer has been against the chance of securing
good grass until late and the layers in October
were but poorly rooted, have they remained with
me on the old plants until the spring. If not
already done, the Carnation beds may receive a
mulching, and if allowed to remain on the beds
throughout the summer it will be found capital
stuff to incorporate with the layering soil. Such
a compost is essentially moisture-holding.

Sprinu bulbs. — Unless we get exceptionally
mild weather, spring bulbs (I was thinking more
especially of Daffodils) will be nothing like so early
as in 1894, a result probably due to the difference
in the immediately preceding summers, for,
whereas in 1893 the great heat and prolonged
drought were answerable for an early ripening of
the foliage and an early starting of the bulbs, the
conditions last summer were exactly reversed —
the foliage remained green until very late in the
season, the ripening of the bulbs was deferred
and the starting into growth for the present season
proportionately late. Where Daffodils are in great
request as cut flowers it is well to note the date of
flowering (in an average season) of the different
varieties as they are obtained, so that one may
increase or diminish their numbers as the}' are
likely to be required. These remarks naturally
apply to flowers for cutting, and not to their
naturalisation for effect in the flower garden and
pleasure grounds. Here they will be used as they
may be best adapted to different soils and situa-
tions and in variety, that the flowering season
may be prolonged as much as possible, only it
must be remembered that each separate clump
should be composed of one variety. Naturalisation
becomes a farce when there is an indiscriminate
mixture of trumpet and chalice-cup flowers, repre-
senting the months from February to May.

Flowering shrubs. — Beds of these may have
their final tidy up for the season, any little prun-
ing required finished, and when, as often happens,
the beds are in the immediate neighbourhood of
trees and are fairly covered with autumn leaves,
the latter can have a thin coating of half-decom-
posed leaf soil shaken over them instead of raking
over the beds. This treatment may be specially
recommended for hardy Azaleas and all shallow-
rooting American plants, and on poor, dry soils if
cow manure can be substituted for the leaf soil so
much the better. Whilst on this subject I should
like to caution those who are answerable for the
cutting in connection with the flower basket to be
very careful in their treatment of hardy Azaleas.
The careless flower gatherer is apt to nip here
and there, spoiling the appearance of the plant
and encouraging a lot of small growth that is of
no earthly use, besides damaging the prospects of
a good display of flower for the next season. The
proper way is to take those flowers that are on
straggling, awkwardly placed shoots, cutting to
a back break that is likely to develop into a strong
serviceable shoot. The ordinary A. pontica,
about the sweetest member of the family, as it is
when in mass one of the most showy, was planted
here rather largely in the old days, but, unfortu-
nately, in rather a strange manner, dotted here
and there among common Rhododendrons instead
of in bold masses. No notice was taken of them
for many years, the consequence being that in
the majority of cases the Rhododendrons had
nearly smothered them, and the Azaleas grew7
tall, but very straggling. By dint, however, of
heading them back and cutting the Rhododen-
drons well away from them we have converted
them into very fair specimens, and very effective
they are in the flowering season, dense masses of
yellow set, as it were, in a framework of ever-
greens. E. Burrell.
Claremoitt.

severe the winter, it does not get killed, while that
growing on the level ground is often cut down. That on
the wall grows hard and wiry compared to the other.

— J. ClIOOK.

The Gladwin (Iris fcetidiseima). — When at
Torquay in November I saw hundreds of clumps
of this plant in the hedgerows V; the roadside,
and handsome they were, lode:, with a profusion
of orange-red berries. In the neighbourhood of
Chudleigh, a few miles out of Exeter, I saw
much of this Iris growing on the dry woodland
banks and hedgerows also. From what I saw of
it there I resolved to grow it for its ornamental
red berries during the winter. — E. M.

Statice latifolia. — This a good late summer
flowering perennial either for the border or for the
rockery in a good open spot where a deep root-run
may be afforded it. It is the showie.-t and most
vigorous perhaps of the hardy kinds, and seen in bold
groups in full flower forms quitea distinct feature.
The plant may be raised from seed, though this
is not always to be depended upon, particularly
after a somewhat sunless summer like that of
1894. A better way of raising stock, and cer-
tainly a safer and quicker method of obtaining
good plants, is b}' cuttings of the root-1. Judging
by appearances, there is no indication that the
plant will increase in this way, as all the growth
usually springs from a forked head at the crown.
But if a plant is lifted and some of the roots de-
tached and cut into lengths of a couple of inches
or even less, a good stock may soon be obtained. '
The stronger roots will even bear being halved or
quartered, though such extremes are rai ely needful
outside a nursery. Insert the pieces of roots in a
pot in sandy soil with the apex just ptotruding, and
where possible place them in warmth in the
greenhouse, or, better still, in slight bottom-heat.
In a few weeks small breaks will appear, and as
these progress gradually harden off and treat sub-
sequently in the usual way of cuttings. By the
month of June with careful treatment the young
plants will be ready for planting out in their per-
manent positions. — E. 0.

Common garden Thyme. — It is worthy of
notice how well this thrives on old house walls. Our
garden walls are of this material, and on one portion of
them we have an abundance of Thyme. However

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS FROM
SEED.

The time is drawing near when the sowing of
seeds of choice perennials should receive atten-
tion. Many amateurs probably working on the
system of " sowing the seeds as soon as ripe "
will have sown such as they were themselves
able to secure in the past summer and autumn.
I do not consider that anything is gained by
sowing seed as soon as ripe, but rather the
reverse. One very obvious disadvantage of the
system is that some species and varieties of
plants germinate so quickly, that they appear
above ground at a season of the year by no
means favourable to their well-being. And
even supposing them to be sufficiently hardy to
endure frost with impunity, there is the ad-
ditional risk of the seedlings being devoured
by slugs. For these reasons, therefore, it is
always advisable to delay sowing the seeds for
a mouth or two after beiug collected— suffi-
ciently late, in fact, to ensure their remaining
dormant through the winter months. It is a
very common practice to sow the majority of
seeds in pots, pans, or boxes of fine soii, though
I am by no means convinced that this is the
safest and best way. Of course there are
risks and uncertainties whatever method is
employed, though I incline to the belief that
the greater risk is encountered when the seeds
are sown in well-drained pots. These latter are
too often an obvious evil, by reason of the
frequent and repeated waterings which become
necessary — an operation responsible for the loss
of much good and valuable seed. A far simpler
way, and I venture to think a much safer one at
the same time, is that of sowing the seeds in the
open ground, or in ground at least that can be

February 2, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

79

protected overhead by a spare light. For many
things even this protection would be unneces-
sary, particularly for the stronger growing
kinds, such as Lupines, Hollyhocks, Gaillardias,
many Poppies, Everlasting Peas, and others
which germinate quickly and soon make vigorous
plants ready for transplanting. Such as these
may be gathered together in one block for in-
stance, while another may be set apart for such
things as Coreopsis, Campanulas of the Peach-
leaved section, also C. latifolia, which, though
somewhat strong growing, has seeds of small
size. This batch should also include such things as
Adonis, Geum, Lychnis chalcedonica and Haage-
ana, Dracoeephalum, Sweet William, Colum-
bines, Agrostemma, Armeria, and many others;
while a third section could well be made up
of many species of Primula, also Polyanthus
and Auricula, herbaceous Lobelias, Lychnis
Lagascse, Campanulas of the turbinata group,
also fragilis, isophylla, and indeed any of the
very minute-seeded kinds that require either
sowing on the surface merely or with a very
slight covering. All such as these repay for
sowing iu a frame which maybe darkened al
will, and thus save much labour and anxiety in
watering. In this latter the soil should be pre-
pared by digging and an inch of finely sifted
soil added on the surface and made somewhat
firm. Using very dry soil on the surface will
dispense with adhesiveness in firming. When
this is done a good watering may be given and
the seeds .sown thinly on the following day,
marking out a small plot for each and labelling
as the work proceeds. Provided a good water-
ing be given at the start and the frame darkened,
little else will be needed for some time.

All the larger seeded kinds in the open will
be best sown in shallow drills a few inches
apart, protecting them from birds and cats by
sprays of Gorse, Holly, or similar things. For
very rare and choice alpines, or such as may
take a long time to germinate, for example,
some of the Gentians, Hellebores, Hepaticas,
Primulas, &c, it is a good plan to sow the seeds
in pots in the usual way, afterwards standing
each pot in a saucer of water. By supplying
the water in this manner the soil will be kept
moist without fear of disturbing the seeds by
repeated surface waterings. In adopting this
method it will be necessary now and again to
allow the saucer to become quite dry, other-
wise the soil may become sour. If the pots are
covered with darkened glass and occupy a
shady place, they will only require occasional
fresh supplies of water beiow to keep the soil
sufficiently moist.

It is not safe to discard seed-pots for at least
two years, as many things are slow to vegetate.
This is particularly true of Trollius, Autheri-
cum, Hellebore, and many other things even
when freshly gathered seeds ouly are employed.
Indeed I have more than once thought that
the sowing of freshly gathered seeds is a mis-
take, and that some species at least produce
equally good results and germinate more quickly
when securely kept for a few months. For
instance, I have experience of Hellebores taking
three years to germinate, and Trollius and An-
thericums nearly two and a half years when the
seed has been sown as soon as ripe. These
seeds were fully ripe when collected even to fall-
ing, while others of the same batch kept over
have appeared above ground in a little more
than half the time in the first named, and con-
siderably earlier in the others. Dictamnus has
some peculiarities also when raising it from
seed, and much variation and uncertainty also
exist among the Columbines. Is it likely that
seeds are influenced in this respect by the pre-
sence or absence of sunlight ami sun-heat at

their time of ripening, and their vitality les-
sened or increased in proportion i E. J.

BEGONIA SEMPERFLORENS VERNON IN
THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Opinions will probably differ about the value of
this Begonia as a summer bedding plant. I
noticed in The GAB.DEN towards the end of last
summer that more than one writer spoke rather
highly of it for that purpose. I do not know if
my experience was in any v/-.\y singular regarding
it, but I cannot say that I was particularly struck
with it, because when grown alone in a bed there
was a good deal of sameness about it. There is
not distinction enough between the leaves and the
flowers to please me. Another lot of plants in a
bed that had a wide band of white variegated
1'elargoniums round it was more effective, and the
white variegation against the bronze foliage of
this Begonia was a good contrast. I do not think
that it can be successfully used in the flower
garden unless it is associated with a plant with a
different coloured leaf. A moderately sized bed,
pretty well tilled with plants of this Begonia, and
a good edging of Dactylis glomerata would be
fairly satisfactory, as what is wanted is something
to brighten up the dull tone of the bronzy leaves.
One point in its favour is that a good stock of
plants can be raised from seed the same si ason
they are wanted for use. Plants raised at the same
time and treated in the same way as the tuberous-
rooted Begonias will be large enough for planting
out early in June. Last year I pricked the seed
lings out into boxes, from which they were trans-
ferred to the beds. If I grow it again I shall
pinch out the centre growth when the third pair
of leaves are formed, as I believe this will make
the plants more bushy, and altogether of a better
form than when they are allowed to grow their
own way. If not pinched they do not braneh out
sufficiently to cover much space.

J. C. Clarke.

Kitchen Garden.

HEAVY CROPS OF ONIONS. '

Heavy crops of Onions are objects of pride,
and sometimes a source of profit to the grower,
private gardeners in particular attaching con-
siderable importance to them. This may be
partly due to the fact that a good supply for
home use must be maintained, and partly be-
cause no other crop shows so plainly on the
surface whether or not it is a failure or success.
Some gardeners who may have experienced no
great difficulty in growing heavy crops are apt
to undervalue what is being done by their con-
temporaries, many of whom find it far from an
easy matter to grow Onions successfully. The
seed may germinate evenly and well, or it may
fail badly in places ; the young plants may
grow freely and strongly, or they come to a
standstill and never thoroughly recover from
the check. If thinning is deferred a few days
too long owing to a press of other work, much
harm may result from that, while in not a few-
cases thinning out has to be very cautiously
carried out owing to the likelihood of the
Onion maggot destroying the plants wholesale.
Nor is this all. In not a few cases just when
the bulbing or thickening of the base is going
on strongly, mildew overruns the bed, and the
crop if not completely spoilt is yet greatly im-
paired in value both as regards the weight and
keeping properties of the roots. Then there
is the difficulty to be faced in many backward
gardens of the roots failing to mature properly,
and everybody knows they must be ripened
thoroughly if they are to be kept for winter and
spring use.

For several years past exhibitors of Onions
have been in the habit of sowing a pinch or
packets of Onion seed, as the case may be, in
heat in order to have a batch of plants for
transplanting to the open in April. These
early-raised transplanted Onions are found to
far out-distance those sown quite in the open
in February or March. Not only do they
attain a larger size, but they also mature earlier
— they never fail in this respect — and as a
consequence invariably take precedence at
flower shows held in August and September.
Whether or not Onions sown early in February
under glass can honestly be termed " spring sown "
it is no part of my business to determine. No
judge would venture to disqualify them, and the
practice thus condoned will always be followed.
In America they have adopted the plan of raising
plants in heat on a very extensive scale ; it is
found to be much the most profitable method
of culture to pursue. If it pays well to follow the
prize-winner's method in aland of bright sunshine
in abundance, several acres of ground being de-
voted to Onions thus raised by single growers,
how much more so is the practice desirable in
this comparatively sunless country. Sowing the
seed where the plants are to grow may
seem the least laborious plan, but is it ', What
about the extra time that has to be devoted to
thinning out, filling up gaps, hoeing and hand-
weeding in the case of crops sown in the open
Then, again, sowing in heat admits of more
time or affords better opportunities for getting
the ground into a thoroughly pulverised state — a
very important matter. Lumpy ground is about
the worst that could be selected as a seed-bed
for Onions, but during March the clods usually
get a thorough drying from winds and sunshine,
April showers completing the work of breaking
them down. There is yet another point in
favour of sowing under glass, viz., the great
saving of seed effected. Those packets of choice
or new varieties are very small indeed, and the
prices in the case of older varieties are by no
means inconsiderable. Sown in the open, allow-
ance has to be made for failure, but in a mode-
rately brisk heat seed that would fail iu cold
ground germinates readily enough, so that one-
half less seed may be sown under glass than is
necessary in the open. It may be thought that,
owing to the already crowded state of the houses
in most gardens, little or no room could well be
spared for raising Onion plants in quantity, but
this is far from being a serious objection. For in-
stance, how much room would be taken up by
six boxes each 24 inches by 12 inches 1 Space for
this number could easily be found in innumer-
able early vineries, Peach houses being forced,
and such-like, and in these enough plants could
be raised to form in the open twenty-seven
rows 20 yards long, the plants being disposed 3
inches apart, while if a distance of 4 inches
apart in the row is allowed there would be
thirty-six rows grown. The latter is perhaps
the distance that would be most often favoured,
and this means an Onion bed 20 yards by 12
yards, or, roughly, 8 rods of ground. If the
latter was well prepared for the plants and what
few other necessary cultural details are attended
to, there should be a crop not far short of 40
bushels of sound well-matured Unions for stor-
ing in the autumn. For ordinary purposes,
medium-sized to small roots are most to be de-
sired, and planting at a distance of 3 inches
apart should be most often practised. Exhi-
bitors require extra large roots, and in this case
planting from 5 inches to 6 inches apart gives
the best results.

It is worthy of note that transplanted
Onions, or any raised in the open during the
autumn for the purpose, and also those raised

80

THE GARDEN.

[February 2, 1895.

early in the year under glass, are far less liable
to be attacked by Union maggot, though they
are no more exempt from mildew than are
those sown in the open in March, unless early
maturation can lie considered a preventive. If
wanted extra fine, then more than ordinary
pains must be taken with the preparation of
the ground. A change of site is desirable in
cases where the Onion maggot proves trouble-
some, but successful growers of Onions use soot
and artificial manures so freely, that it is not
often they are much troubled by the maggot.
As a matter of fact, some of the finest Onions
shown in various parts of the country are grown
in large quantities on the same breadth of
ground every season. This site has been
trenched so often and has had so much added
to it in the shape cf solid manure, road grit
and strong composts, that it is now raised fully
1 foot above the ordinary level of the ground,
and, as a consequence of this extraordinary cul-
ture, the Onions have so great a depth of rich,
firm, yet comparatively warm soil to root in,
that this partially accounts for the extraordinary
success attending the practice. Evidently Onions
require warmth as well as rich food and moisture
at the roots, and if proof of this were needed I
have only to refer to what is done by Mr. Smith
at Mentmore. Nowhere else have I seen Onions
grown on the ridges between the Celery trenches,
and nowhere else last season did I see a more
serviceable lot of well-matured roots. The
ridges between Celery trenches will hold
two rows of Onions without greatly interfer-
ing with the free passage to the trenches, and
these sites could not be more profitably utilised.
The least that can be done towards giving a
trial to the plan of raising under glass and
transplanting is to raise enough for most of the
ridges between the trenches intended for mid-
season and late Celery. If the work is done
properly, there will be a capital lot of Onions
for storing next autumn, even if the plan is
tried in districts proverbially unfavourable to
Onion culture. Those raised in boxes and
planted out on the level should have a well- pre-
pared site, solid manure having been dug in
early in the winter, it may be with a view to
sowing where the plants are to mature, though
even more importance should be attached to the
state of the soil as regards fine tilth. A supple-
mentary dressing of 1 peck of soot to the rod,
and forked in prior to planting, or else 2 lbs. of
superphosphate of lime to 1 square rod at plant-
ing time, followed by a dressing of 1A lbs. of
nitrate of soda sown during a showery time
early in May, will usually prove fully equal to
promoting the growth of a fairly heavy and de-
cidedly serviceable crop of roots. If the young
Onions are .somewhat drawn when the planting
time arrives, shorten the tops to the extent of
one-third of their length, and they will become
more quickly established accordingly. Plant
with the aid of a small flat or hollowed-out
dibber, taking good care to spread out the roots
in a natural manner instead of turning them
up. They may be buried to the depth of 1 inch
or thereabouts, and should have the soil pressed
against the roots, a watering also being given if
the soil is at all dry, while if the soil is moist at
the time of planting, it may yet need watering a
day or two later on. All that will be further
necessary is to keep the ground free of weeds,
timely stirrings with a Dutch hoe accomplishing
this and otherwise benefiting the plants.

W. Iggulden.

Celery Leicester Red. — There are so many
kinds of Celery now-a-days,that the inexperienced
are often puzzled which to choose. Were I re-
stricted to one sort only, I would certainly prefer

Leicester Red. I happened to be employed in the
garden where seed of it was sent for trial when it
was first raised and before it was sent out. It
was grown by the side of several of the then most
popular strains. The winter was an exceptionally
wet one, so much so indeed, that rot destroyed
nearly all the other varieties ; whereas not a single
stick of Leicester Red was affected. Since then I
have watched it in various gardens and in a
variety of soils and found it to retain its rot-proof
character. No better Celery could be grown for
weight, crispness and quality, so that growers
living in low-lying, wet districts would do well to
give Leicester Red a trial. — J. C.

Protecting Broccoli in frames. — Recently
some notes appeared on this, a writer remarking
the best method was to take the plants up and
place them under glass. For several years i have
done this. The last two years I have laid them in
in the old hot-bed where Cucumbers have been
grown in 'uinmcr. This was done about the last
week in November, and now at the end of January
I have some splendid heads of Veitch's Autumn
Self-Protecting, enough to keep up the supply till
the middle of February, when I hope to cut Early
Penzance. — J. Crook.

NOTES ON LETTUCE.

At this time many will be making up their seed
orders, and a few remarks on the different varie-
ties of this indispensable salad may, perhaps, be
serviceable. For sowing in gentle heat now I
have none to equal Early Paris Market ; it has a
nice sturdy habit, forces well, and forms small,
solid, tender hearts of excellent flavour. Another
advantage is that it may always be relied upon to
come into use before those that have stood the
winter are over. For succession, Veitch's Perfect
Gem is really what its name implies, and stands
hot or dry weather splendidly without bolting to
seed. These are the only two Cabbage varieties
that I grow in quantity for summer use, with
Hammersmith Hardy Green for winter and spring
use. Amongst Cos varieties, Paris White is a
great favourite here, and preferred to all others
during the past two dry summers, the hearts
being large, white, very crisp, and of agreeable
flavour. Paris Green is also liked, being only a
little inferior to the White, but I found it run to
seed sooner, and the leaves have a rather coarser
mid-rib. Little Queen is a fine sort to turn in
quickly and is of good quality, but here it bolted
soon, and it would not do to have large quanti-
ties planted out, as many would spoil before they
could be used. For winter and spring use Hick's
Hardy White is a fine variety, doing particularly
well on our warm soil, and is seldom injured by
sharp weather. It is always ready for use before
Bath Cos, a well-known and esteemed variety.
I think it much better to grow only a few well-tried
sorts rather than a number of untried ones that
may disappoint the grower at a season when he
most requires them. While growing, nothing in
the garden seems to derive so much benefit from
liquid manure as Lettuce : if given once a week
no anxiety need be felt as to the size or tenderness
of the hearts. W. G. C.

MARKET GARDEN NOTES.
In walking through a West Middlesex market
garden a few days since I noticed the adoption of a
simple contrivance for getting some Rhubarb
I'm ward. A bed about 4 feet in width was dug
out to the depth of a foot or so. The soil dug
out was used to make a bank along the sides and
ends, and some young Ash stakes were employed
by being bent over the bed at certain distances
to form an archway about 4 feet in height. Some
strong roots of the Early Albert Rhubarb grow-
ing in a plantation hard by were dug up and
placed thickly in the bed with soil between
them, and over the roots a good covering of fresh
stable manure, thick mats being employed to
form a covering. With the wall of soil protect-

ing the roots at the sides and the covering of
manure on the surface an early crop is certain,
preceding by some days that taken from the roots
in the open. In the case of the latter plantations
advantage is being taken of the wintry weather
to draw in the long stable manure brought from
London, with which is mingled spent hops. The
ground having been well cleaned over before the
frost set in is now being covered with a good
layer of this manure, which will not only keep
the roots snug and protected during the winter,
but also encourage an early growth. As the
leaves ascend they carry up with them the long
manure, which serves the purpose of a screen, pro-
tecting the young stalks from the cold easterly
winds which prevail in March.

Ureen stuff of all kinds has been very plentiful
during the autumn. Up to the time that the
frost set in winter Spinach had been abundant,
and frequent pickings were made. The effect of
severe frost is to sear the leaves, but when a thaw-
comes with milder weather, the hearts of the
plants soon become active and put forth leaves.
Probably a good covering of snow would be as
acceptable to the market gardener at the present
time. Brussels Sprouts and Savoy Cabbages have
furnished abundant supplies, and the stalks of the
former are yet well furnished. Savoy Cabbages
have been remarkably good, but they are nearly
cleared, perhaps because rain and hard frost after
Christmas always prove so injurious to the crop.
The earliest Coleworts came on rapidly towards
maturity, though they are now receiving a check.
Spring Onions promise well, though owing to
the mild weather and the wet summer they have
gone a good deal to neck. But the plant is a
good one, and there is the promise of a glut in
spring, as there was two years ago. R. D.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 999.

CALOCHORTUS PLUMMER.E.
(with a coloured plate.*)
This fine species was given the above name by
Professor E. L. Greene, of the University of
California. It is, however, I think, identical
with C. Weedi purpurascens, described in
Professor Sereno Watson's monograph of the
genus, but was not introduced into cultivation
till two or three years back, when re-discovered
and named by Professor Greene. This species
and C. Weedi are closely allied, both, like the
Mexican species, having fibrously coated bulbs,
which are not common to any other Californian
variety. The bulbs of C. Plummerte are the
largest known, being upwards of 1 inch in dia-
meter, with a very" thick coat. The plant is
very noticeable on account of its strong and
vigorous habit. The one solitary leaf grows to a
length of 2 feet by 1 inch in width, and the
stout flower-stem rises to a height of 2 feet or
more, carrying numerous branches bearing from
ten to fifteen flowers. The flowers are larger
than those of any other variety, some of those
exhibited at the Drill Hall on July 24 last being
4 inches across ; the base of each petal is covered
with long golden hairs. The plant was awarded
a first-class certificate on the above date, and
though not the most beautiful of the genus, it
is a fine acquisition and well worth growing on
account of its large showy flowers and vigorous
habit.

As previously stated in the issue of Novem-
ber 3, 1894, with a little care and trouble Calo-
chorti may be grown in the open border as easily
as the majority of hardy bulbs, and when once

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon, July 20,
1804, in Dr. Wallace's garden at Colchester. Litho-
graphed and printed by Guillaume Severeyns.

■

CALOCK 3 PLUMMER^E.

February '2. 1895.]

THE GARDEN

81

this has been proved there will be, I feel sure,

few gardens where flowers are cultivated for the

sake of their beauty that will not contain them.

Colchester. Kobt. W. Wallace.

The Week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.
Cucumbers.— The weather of late has not been
favourable to the well-being of the winter-fruit-
ing plants, not through lack of sunshine, but
owing to the harsh cutting winds. Where
blinds are used for night shelter, lowering them
by day as previously advised during storms of
wind will have proved a boon to the plants. Avoid
too hard firing, rather allowing the mercury to
descend a few degrees below the regular figure,
especially in houses deficient of piping. In such
cases a reduction in the damping down at nightfall
is advisable. If red-Bpider has gained a footing,
the foliage should be syringed with a weak solu-
tion of Fir tree oil mixed in warm soft water over
night and the scum removed in the morning. A
sunny day should be chosen, that dry foliage
before darkness may be guaranteed. Both bear-
ing plants and young seedlings will soon be helped
on by lengthening days and increased sun-heat, so
that feeding may be practised a little oftener.
Young surface roots also being more numerous,
top dressings, always shallow and consisting of
•open loamy material with the addition of one-
fourth fresh horse droppings, may be given
as often as they appear. Evaporating pans
charged with liquid manure, always diluted to
one-fourth its strength, will further aid in ward-
ing off insect pests. Where two or more fruits
cluster together, remove all but one, and ferti-
lising at this early date will be necessary in order
to avoid yellow and useless fruit. Train as much
as possible on the extension system, removing only
the weaker shoots that stop the ingress of sun and
light, and cover the pipes where in close proximity
to the foliage with coarse porous material. Dur-
ing absence of frost a night heat of 70° will suit
fruiters, 05° being better for plants which are
growing freely. In watering, let the water be
soft, if possible, and apply it at a temperature of
90°. December-sown plants with the first pair of
rough leaves well developed may be planted out
on small hillocks of open soil provided there is
abundance of bottom-heat, but where this is
•deficient the plants had better remain in the pots
for another fortnight.

PEAS. — In open, light soils and in favourable
districts, sowings of first early Peas may now be
made. These will succeed those now coming on
in pots in frames, and which will be transplanted
next month. I cannot name a better selection
for this date than Chelsea Gem, Exonian, and
William the First, these forming a slight succes-
sion to one another. In sowing let the drills be
shallow, as drought is never likely to affect these
early crops, and deep sowing often ends in whole-
sale rotting. The distance between the rows
may be about the same as the height of the
variety when fully grown, but if a little more
space can be given, a few rows of early Spinach
may be sown between. If practicable, it is well
to cover the Peas before filling in the drills with
a good coating of leaf-mould and burnt garden
refuse, this preserving the seed until it ger-
minates.

Broad Beans. — The present is a good time to
make a sowing in pots or boxes of some good
early sort, such as Mazagan or Green Windsor.
These, if brought on in a little warmth and
finally hardened off in frames, will transplant
well about the second week in March, and will,
if then protected by Spruce boughs, come in in
good time. A sowing, according to space at
command, may likewise be made of Seville Long-
pod, a capital Bean for following Mazagan and
v«ry hardy.

Forcing Cauliflowers. — Where Cauliflowers
are wanted in quantity in June, or where the
wintered stock of Early London or Walcheren
has already bolted, a sowing in heat may be
made of any of the small early-maturing section,
such as Snowball. If the box or pan containing
the seed is stood in an intermediate house, the
young seedlings will quickly appear, when they
must be freely thinned and kept close to the
glass for a fornight, after which a cooler house
will suit them better until large enough to prick
off into larger pans or boxes. Early Cabbage,
such, for instance, as Ellam's or Cocoa-nut, may
be reared in the same way, as may also Lettuce
if a scarcity in the autumn-planted Brown Cos
batches is anticipated.

Potatoes in pots. — Where Sharpe's Victor,
Ringleader, or any of the short-topped early va-
rieties were planted in pots early in December,
growth will now be well advanced. Earthing up,
if not already completed, should now be done and
the haulm supported by neat, stout sprigs of
Hazel. A little artificial manure may well be
added to the compost. Avoid shading the pots
by plants or fruit trees, or growth and tubers will
both alike be unsatisfactory. Beware of too much
water at the roots, rather erring on the dry side
than otherwise.

Teas in pots. — The same remarks respecting
earthing up and supporting growth apply to
batches of dwarf early Peas sown in November
and now being forwarded in Peach houses at work
or similar places, elevated, of course, upon light
airy shelves near the roof glass. Feeding may
also be practised on a liberal scale, and where too
many have been left in the pots, thinning may
still be practised. Although the gatherings from
these are never large, they are very useful, im-
mediately preceding those produced in frames.
On fine days Peas under glass enjoy occasionally
a good syringing overhead.

Parsnips and Leeks. — Where these are still in
their growing quarters and the ground is wanted,
they had better I e lifted, removed to some con-
venient spot and laid in to their full depth, after-
wards being covered with litter. Where roots of
any favourite Beet are being saved for seed, they
should be clamped if this was omitted in autumn,
and a good thickness of dry Bracken laid over them.
A Seakalo pot should be fixed at the top of the
clamp, being filled with Bracken during sharp
weather and kept quite clear when mild, so as to
admit air and prevent the tops from growing too
much.

Globe Artichokes. — After' the snow and thaw,
stools of Artichokes must be examined, as the
protecting litter is apt to become too wet and rot
the crowns. Remove it and replace with fresh,
using it in a rather long state. Where offsets were
taken off in the autumn, potted up and stood in
frames or pits, they must now be looked over, and
any decayed portions removed from the base of the
stem. Good coverings of litter are requisite in
very sharp weather, as the tissues being very
tender are easily frozen through, rot following,

Cleaning crops. — The beginning of February
is a good time to go through beds of winter
Spinach, picking off all dead and yellow leaves,
removing any large weeds with the hand from
amongst the rows, and finally putting the Dutch
hoe through the bed. This will admit air and
warmth and encourage fresh spring growth.
Quarters of Brussels Sprouts, Kale, and Broccoli
should also be gone through and all dead leaves re-
moved from the stems. Before digging or trench-
ing any ground it will be better to clear oil any
stumps of Coleworts or other greens rather than
dig them in, as they often produce a colony of
grubs and injurious ground insects. All Broccoli
beds should be examined weekly, and leaves bent
down over all forward heads to protect them from
frost. Fully developed heads may be removed
with the stems entire and laid in in shelter.
All clamps containing eating Potatoes should now
be examined in open weather, especially where
frost injured any of the tubers before they were
lifted from the field in autumn, or rot may play

sad havoc. Sprouts also need removing, these
drawing much of the goodness from the Potatoes.
Advantage of frost must be taken to wheel
manure on to all vacant plots, and even on those
where cutting has not yet ceased, the material
being tipped in large heaps and covered with a
little soil to prevent the strength escaping and
also for appearance sake where in sight of the
mansion. While the roads are hard, gravel
should be carted home for mending kitchen
garden walks, this work being pushed forward
with all speed, as also the renewal and planting
of Box edgings. All faulty drains in this depart-
ment should also be seen to. Labels for vege-
table crops must also be made, Pea sticks cut in
readiness for early rows, the spray or trimmings
being saved for use amongst Beans and dwarfer
subjects generally. Stakes for seed crops in sum-
mer should also be prepared. Home-made frames
may be provided for the accommodation of succes-
sional crops of Potatoes, French Beans, and
Carrots, these not necessarily having glass lights,
but straw covers, to be placed over the frames at
night.

Seed Okions. — These should now be closely
examined, any that are likely to be too far grown
by planting-out time being used in the kitchen,
and the rest spread out thinly in a dry, cool, airy
place. J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Early Peach house. — The early trees started in
November or the first week in December will now
be in bloom or on the point of opening their flower
buds, and if the latter, no time should be lost in
fumigating. It is best to fumigate lightly two or
three times in succession. The borders must like-
wise receive attention in the way of moisture,
giving water at a temperature of 80°. Should
there be any premature bud-dropping, it is wise
to err on the right side and apply water freely, as
doubtless dryness at the roots tends to that end.
When the flowers commence opening the tempera-
ture should be raised to from 60° to 65° by day
and 10 lower at night. I do not advise a high
night temperature, as better results are obtained
by less heat after daylight ceases. With cold
winds, hail, and snow, and only fitful gleams of
sunshine, airing is a difficult matter, and in large
roomy houses or those constructed of iron it is
wise to keep the top ventilators closed, as should
the thermometer run up freely, it will do much
good. Sun heat at this time of year is invaluable,
and should be retained as much as possible.
Syringing overhead must cease whilst the trees are
in bloom, but it is well to keep the walls, surface
soil and boles of trees moist by damping down
twice a day in fine weather, taking care not to
wet the hot water pipes in cold weather, as dense
volumes of steam are harmful. I am aware some
growers do not advise moisture when the trees are
in bloom, but I am of the opinion that, given as
advised, it strengthens the flowers and creates a
sweet atmosphere. At this dull period of the year
fertilisation of the blooms will be necessary. The
pollen is readily transferred with a rabbit's tail. I
prefer this to a brush, as it is light, and the least
touch suffices to set the flowers. Many of the old
varieties bloom so profusely, that it is a good plan
to let the smaller blooms take their chance, as the
trees always set a great number of fruits.

Succession Peach houses. — Where there are
several Peach houses the second one is generally
started at the new year, and the buds will now
be swelling freely. Such trees will require ample
supplies of water in the way of damping all parts
of the house and the trees, using tepid water.
Should the hot-water pipes be close to the trees, I
have found it advantageous to cover them for a
time. This covering will cause a moist atmo-
sphere, as the heat may be slightly raised during
the day, giving 5° to 10° higher than when the
house was started. I do not advise raising the
night temperature till the bloom begins to expand.
In mild weather 4.5" to 50° is safe, as if at all
high there will be trouble with bud-dropping.

82

THE GARDEN.

[February 2, 1895

This docs not apply to sun heat. On dull cold
days it is not well to exceed f)0° to 55°, doing what
forcing is required during daylight, maintaining
as regular a night temperature as possible, as a
fluctuating temperature is the beginning of the
grower's troubles. Some varieties— especially
the American Peaches of later introduction — drop
their buds badly, and I have found a temperature
a few degrees higher than advised beneficial.
Now is a good time to water to assist in swelling
the flower-buds. Owing to these trees bloom-
ing later there will be more sun-heat, and it
is a safe plan to reduce the buds if there is a super-
abundance, as there will be no fear of a bad set
with well-managed trees. It will also be found
that the wood buds now will move very quickly,
and it is a good plan to begin disbudding at the
earliest moment possible.

Late Peach houses and cases. — The work of
cleansing should now bs finished, even in cases, as
the buds soon get injured. Should there have
been any trees lilted or new trees introduced, it is
well to get them pruned and the soil well firmed
at the base, and as the trees rarely get too much
moisture in such structures, any overflowing
t;mks of rain water may be made good use of by
giving old or large trees a thorough soaking. The
walls should be washed over with fresh lime after
the pruning is completed. Should brown scale be
troublesome it is well to paint the older wood or
main branches before placing in position, using a
thick solution of Gishurst, clay and sulphur.
Many cultivators leave their trees from the wall
or trellis till the last moment, but as there is so
much work later on, time is saved by doing the
work now, giving all the air possible to keep the
trees back. Large trees which bear freely well
repay rich surface-dressings at this season, using
such materials as turfy loam, bone-meal, wood
ashes, old mortar rubble and some good fertiliser.

Hardy fruits. — Though the weather may not
be all one could wish, it is necessary to push on
with the work of pruning, nailing and training.
In frosty weather manures can with advantage be
placed in position for covering when the weather
is open. It is well to remove the top surface,
which is often weedy, before placing the new
materials, as the borders then do not get raised
too high. I have noticed this winter the borders
of wall trees are anything but moist in light soils,
and as there is often liquid, manure running to
waste at this season, this may be given to such as
Apples, Tears, Cherries and Apricots. To prevent
the manure, which may be thick, leaving a deposit
on the surface, I have found it a good plan to
remove the surface soil before applying the same,
this assisting the liquid to reach the roots more
readily, the soil being replaced when the water-
ing is finished. Doubtless the summer of 1S93
dried the soil so much that the moisture has
never got under large trees with fibrous roots, so
that the food given now will be beneficial.
Apricots with their roots near the surface, also
Cherries, are gross feeders. I do not advise giv-
ing liquid manure to trees in bloom ; it should be
done after the fruits are set. The covering of
whatever kind should be got ready for Apri
cot trees, which will soon be showing their
flowers. I prefer such a covering as will admit
light and not weaken the blooms. A temporary
coping is of great benefit ; indeed, I have more
faith in an efficient coping than any other pro-
tection. The next trees needing attention are
Peaches and Nectarines. These should be pruned
at the earliest date possible, and the walls
cleansed previous to nailing. For this purpose I
use soluble paraffin and warm water. Ordinary
paraffin is soon prepared by thoroughly mixing
with soft soap, and when mixed adding warm
water. Should the trees be dirty, now is a good
time to cleanse them, washing first with strong
soapy water, and painting as advised for indoor
trees. I do not advise renailing Peach trees till
the last moment, as if kept from the wall the buds
are later. It is well to fasten the leading
branches securely to prevent damage by winds.
When the pruning and nailing of wall trees are
finished the borders should receive attention.

These are often neglected if left till the busy sea-
son. Before giving these aids it is well to ex-
amine the soil and see what condition the roots
are in, as if far down they do not reap so much
benefit from surface-dressings. In such a case
I would advise removal of a few inches of top soil
or going down to the roots and placing the
manure over them, giving a covering of soil
over the manure. Fruit trees in the open may
be top-dressed, and Pears if strong well repay for
liquid manure should there be any to spare. To
get the most value out of the liquid give a dress-
ing of short manure on the surface previous to
applying the food. Any old beds, such as
Cucumber or Melon beds, are useful for this pur-
pose if better manures are not available.

G. Wythes.

GARDEN SKETCHES.

Chapter VIII.

" The coming Musk Rose full of dewy wine,
The murmurous haunt of flies ou summer eves."

Milton.

July 1. — At last delightful showers have fallen
by day and night. The hot and dusty air has
become fresh once more. Raindrops lie hidden
in the Rose petals and tremble on the Lilies'
verge, and are folded in the shining leafage ;
the pent-up fragrance is set free again, and the
incense of the flowers ascends with the breath of
morn and floats in the evening air. Nature is
indeed rejoicing, and so are they who feel her
every mood.

It is the time of Roses and Lilies. The
pure Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum) is not
liappy with me, planted no doubt in a too-
shaded spot. I have noticed it lately full in the
mid-day glare, in cottage gardens alongside the
hot and dusty roadway, blossoming in splendour.
Lilium testaceum seems easier to satisfy, and is
a most stately flower when grown in large
clumps. Just at present it has a charming
setting, as one passes along the heibaceous
border, for the fairest of blue Delphiniums is
towering by its side. Elsewhere a tangle of
faint blue Cornflowers is caught among its
stems. I find this Lily equally content in sun-
shine as in shade. The white Rose of Provence
is not a robust grower, but its blossoms have a
fragrant delicacy of texture and a milky white-
ness that are quite unique, and are well worth any
extra care bestowed. The China Roses are now
flinging wide their flowering sprays. Fellenberg
is a particularly vigorous variety. Cramoisi
Superieur is more single, but its crimson is so
intense as to make it a most striking Rose. The
white China Rose, Rival de Pavstum, is alike
exquisite in blossom and foliage, and we may
well believe that this was the Rose mentioned
in Virgil's writings. Cuttings of these old-
fashioned Roses when taken now strike freely
under a bell-glass in some half-shady spot.
Many such that were made just a year ago are
showing blossoms now, but I have had them
nipped off so as to throw the strength of the
plant into the formation of fresh shoots that
later on in autumn may be allowed to flower,
the great charm of these China Roses being their
fearless blossoming until cut off by the frosts of
winter. The success of Rose cuttings seems
chiefly to depend on their being planted in the
ground two-thirds of their length, and then
pressed in as firmly as possible, a portion of
ripened wood at the base being, of course,
necessary in the first instance.

July 17. — St. Swithin's Day came with clouds
and showers, and now we have rain with thun-
der and sweeping winds. This morning there
was a Rose-leaf storm in the garden, when the
crimson petals were torn from their stems and
whirled high against the inky rain clouds

beyond. The Iceland Poppies are very gay
at present in all their shades of orange-red,
bright yellow, apricot, and pure white. An
entire bed of them open in the sunshine and
nodding together in the light summer wind will
give brilliance to whatever spot they may be
in. They are excellent for indoor cutting
arranged with their graceful buds in amber
glasses and the light Gypsophila paniculata
(which I call Sea Spray) used to support them,
their blossoms gleaming brightly through the
delicate flower mist that surrounds them. The
old plants are of little use, so they are grown as
annuals each year. The flowering sprays of
another plant — Heuchera micrantha — hold blos-
soms together very lightly. Seen in the dis-
tance when growing the tall stems are beautiful
caught together in a red misty tangle of some
hundred sprays, that when gathered form a
delicate support for bright blossoms such as the
summer Gladioli, that always tumble aside in a
vase of any width, or the yellow Oenothera
Fraseri, with its slender crimson stems and buds.
Stenactis speciosus has great staying power, and
so is a valuable border plant, its oval green eye
set in the fringe of amethyst petals making it
distinct from the Michaelmas Daisies. Storm
and rain do not injure it. Let but the sun shine
out, and it is quickly dry and bright again after
its rain bath. Frequent root division makes it
more vigorous.

An-.onj shrubs in blossom, Escallonia Phillipi-
ana is one of the most charming. The slender
arching branches are clothed with small white
blossoms, so that they look as if set with pearls
and render it quite distinct from the other va-
rieties. It has not the rapid and somewhat
coarse growth of Escallonias in general, and so
is fitted for choice positions. The large trees of
Berberis Darwini that were golden bushes in
spring-time are now nearly as beautiful in their
summer apparel of deep blue, every branch
being completely draped with fruit like fairy
Plums, with the delightful bloom veiling the
rich hue beneath. The starlings sometimes
light on them for a morning feast, but as yet.
they are untouched by the blackbirds and
thrushes, which are still occupied with the yet
lingering Currants within the garden walls. Long
branches of these blue berries, set in brown jars
with stems of Montbretias, are our prettiest
indoor flower group. Since the drought ended,
Zenobia pulverulenta has made rapid growth
and is sending up fresh tinted shoots from the
base. The leaves are of a lovely pale blue-
greyish hue, shadowed as if with crimson, and
the pure white flowers, set in loose clusters, are
like Lily of the Valley and droop in little waxen
bells from beneath the leaves. A peaty soil
and half-shaded position suit this American
plant. It is not of the hardiest of shrubs, but it
is one of our most precious. Cassinia fulvida.
is overpowering in its smell of honey, but is very
pretty in its early flowering stage ; and later on,
if the flower-heads are clipped oil' when they turn
brown and musty, the shrub will be restored to
its golden hue. This season I notice round the
base seedlings springing up, having lain dor-
mant since last year. During the last few weeks
the white pendent plumes of Spiraea ariajfolia
from a few stems some 8 feet high have been
lovely seen against the blue hills beyond. Even
in winter, after the leaves have fallen, this Spinea
is of value, for the flowers, though brown, yet
linger on the stems, and the whole plant makes
a light and graceful tracery cast up against the
distant landscape. Spiraea palmata and its
white variety make a fine group side by side in
the rock garden. The blossoms of the latter
in its delicate sprays when just opening are
like seed pearls. The crimson stems and

February 2, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

83

rose-pink flowers of the former make it
very attractive, and even when the flower-
ing is past the light network of seed
vessels makes it still pretty. As the Spiraeas
are plants of damp meadows, they enjoy
moisture, and Spiraea palmata is always seen
at its best by a stream-side or bank of a
pond. S. Bumalda is a slender rosy shrub of
rapid growth. S. crispifolia, with its deep pink
blossoms, has been a bright bit of colour for
some time beside a grey rock. It is a compact
bush, increasing very slowly in size.

The blossoms that come and go day by day
have generally beautiful seed vessels, so that the
plant when it has shed its petals of the hour
seems none the worse, but, with fresh swelling
buds, awaits the dawn to be reclothed. This is
especially noticeable in the Cistus family.
Robed in the morning with fluttering blossoms
not yet free of their crimping bud folds, at
evening's close they lie scattered on the ground
beneath, while the tree, free of any withered
bloom, stands erect with shining leaves and
red-brown buds, that hold the satin petals and
the capsules from which they have just fallen,
clustered together to await the coming day.
Cistus florentinus, amid a tangle of Rock Roses
of varied tints, has been beautiful, they, too,
letting drop their coloured banners at close of
day.

July 25. — Is there anything more powerful
to recall the days gone by than the scent of
flowers ? The garden is spicy now with the
perfume of Carnations, Mignonette, and Sweet
Lavender. The last brings back to memory
an attic under the eaves of an old dwelling,
where the blossoms were spread out to dry in
the long summer days, afterwards to be en-
closed in muslin bags and laid among the folds
of snowy linen, and many a day have I climbed
to that sunny chamber to strip the blossoms from
their stalks, and listen to the swallows twitter-
ing on the house-top, and the cooing of the
wood quests in the tall trees close by, and to
watch the peacocks from the little window
strutting up and down in front of the long turf
shed.

With the perfume of Carnations return
to memory the Peaches gathered from the
southern wall of my old home, where they
ripened when the Carnations were in bloom,
and many a one was eaten in the warm
scented air of a summer evening, while the
Carnation blossoms lay in masses, touched to
richer glory by the sunset hour. Carnations
are so much better from young plants that the
layering of them should never be omitted
during this month, for the young plants are
then ready to be moved in September, and
thus have time to become established before
frosts begin. Slips and pipings can also be
made in any shady spot. These latter are not
generally sufficiently rooted to move before the
following April. This season the Carnations
were so much affected by the purple fungus
that appeared in blotches over the leaves, that
I threw out all those in the fountain garden,
removed the soil from the beds, replaced it
with some fresh loam from pasture land, added
some leaf-mould and replanted with cuttings of
last year, which have grown apace. This purple
stain on the grass is the Carnation's cholera, and
so infectious, that it is death to the plant unless
each leaf is removed as soon as the disease is
apparent on it. The old Clove Pinks — the
sweetest of all— are especially liable to this com-
plaint. Since moisture has returned the Mont-
bretias have made rapid growth and give a de-
lightful glow of orange-red in the rock garden.
M. crocosmi;eflora is not so tall or leafy as
M. Pottsi and flowers more freely, the blossoms

outstripping the foliage and being larger and
more brilliant. The beautiful arched purple
stems are many-branched, and beaded their
mtire length with flower-buds opening gradually
from the base upward. No withered bloom is
ever visible, as, perfection past, they drop one
by one to mother earth, leaving the crimson-
sheathed seed-pod. The Montbretias delight in
a in. ist atmosphere and soil, and where these
can be found they are among our most valuable
autumn plants. When the clumps become too
large they can be dug up in spring and torn to
pieces, the larger bulbs being replanted and the
remainder thrown away if not required. The
spiny-leaved Eryngiums have been beautiful all
this month, especially E. amethystinum, with
its crown of red-admiral butterflies. Each sunny
morning brought the fluttering, dazzling wings
to lie expanded on the blossoms, the insect in-
toxicated either by its scent or its nectar into
stillness. I have counted as many as nine of
these butterflies on the plant at the one moment.
E alpinum in like manner attracted the wild
bees, and so overcame them with its essence that
they could be calmly lifted off the flower-heads
and laid in one's hand, there to reel and stagger
in the most drunken manner for about one
minute, after which they would flyaway, mount-
ing high into the air. ' L. A. L.

(To be continued.)

Rose Garden.

WINTER ROSES.

Lecturing to the Horticultural Club on the
odour of Roses at the Hotel Windsor on De-
cember 11, I embraced the opportunity of noting
the winter Roses in the markets, shops, and
Btreets. The facts gleaned in such quarters
could hardly be said to be encouraging to British
trade. The bulk of the December Roses in
London were of French or foreign growth, and
the}' consisted chiefly of Mme. Falcot and Isabella
Sprunt, with a few Safrano and l'ldeal. There
were also a few English grown Roses, but while
these were comparatively few and far between,
French Roses, consigned in boxes of KJU each,
may be said to have furnished the markets and
overflowed into the streets. In front of the Royal
Exchange and Liverpool Street Station these
French Roses had also more colour than English
ones of the same sort, and, being massed in
hundreds, added to the colour which the Roses
presented in single file hardly possessed.

The flower girls in the street were not slow to
add to the colour of their Rose-buds. The purple
glow of the foliage of some of our Teas adds
greatly to the effect of the half-opened buds,
hence to increase the body of purple foliage
in contrast with the Rose-buds of cream or gold,
not a few of these clever mounters had worked
in one or more glowing crimson leaves of Berberis
Aquifolium with the all too scant leaves of Mme.
Falcot. There was, however, a striking lack of
white Roses in the metropolitan streets and
markets a fortnight before Christmastide, and
surely it is not beyond the ability of our English
growers to flood the markets with home-grown
Niphetos Roses for Christmas as liberally as
they are supplied with foreign Roses, Camellias,
Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, Arums, Roman
Hyacinths, and Tulips. I am glad to note
that " U. S." has faith in Niphetos for winter
work. I go further, and would challenge any
Rose grower to name a white Rose that can
equal Niphetos for quantity and quality at any
season under glass. D. T. F.

one year after M. Beluze introduced a Bengal
variety, and three years before M. Oger sent
out a Hybrid Perpetual. Such confusion is caused
by this multiplicity of names that a trade grower
is often accused of substituting a variety when in
reality the only error was in not knowing for cer-
tain which class or section of Rose was alluded to.
There are many similar instances to the above,
and much unnecessary annoyance is caused by
this careless naming. — R.

Mme. Georges Bruant, one of the hybrid
Japanese Briers, resulted from crossing Rosa
rugosa with Sombreuil, and partakes of the charac-
teristics of both — almost pure white and semi-
double. R. rugosa alba is a perfect single white ;
Sombreuil is very thin and of lemon-white shades.
The result is a vigorous grower with a long bud
and of truly perpetual-blooming nature, with
much sweeter perfume than in the ordinary Rosa
rugosa. — R.

Moss Rose Cristata, sometimes called Cha-
peau de Napoleon, and at others Crispee, was sent
out almost seventy years ago, and if one gets hold
of the true variety it is still the best crested pink
of this class. It should not be confounded with
the common Moss Rose, although both are very
fragrant and somewhat similar, but Cristata is a
much newer production and more mossy. Both
are only moderate growers, best on their own
roots, and need rather hard pruning. — R.

The old Cabbage or common Provence
Rose, known in this country for almost three cen-
turies, is still grown around London beneath fruit
trees. It supplies a large number of partially
crested buds, which when cut young are almost
like the Mosses and very sweet-scented. Not a
vigorous grower, but when on its own roots
and allowed to sucker at will, it is long-lived and
hardy. There are several home and Continental
names for this old favourite in addition to the
above — R. d'Hollande, R. hortensis, R. do Chou,
R. eentifolia communis and others. — R.

Rose W. A. Richardson for exposed
places. — This Rose has a grand constitution. It
grows and blooms most freely here on its own
roots in bush form fully exposed to the eastern
gales, continuing to flower late into the autumn.
Whether grown on a wall or in the open it must
not be cramped for room, neither must it be over-
pruned. The weaker growths, especially those
from the centre of the tree, should be duly
thinned and the head generally balanced, but
nothing further. It succeeds well here on a com-
paratively light soil, which is an additional good
trait in its character. — J. C, Newark.

Imperatrice Eugenie is the name given to
three perfectly distinct Roses. M. Guillot sent
out a Perpetual Moss under this name in 1S56;

Orchids.

NEWLY-IMPORTED ORCHIDS.

Ik forming or adding to a collection of Orchids
many people prefer to purchase newly-imported
plants, and there is much to be said in favour
of this. There is, of course, always a chance —
if a remote one — of obtaining something new
amongst a lot of Orchids that have never
flowered under cultivation. But there is a
much greater advantage in the way imported
Orchids of all kinds grow away when introduced
to a suitable atmosphere. It has often been a
matter of wonder to me to see Cattleyas,
for instance, recover so quickly when badly
shrivelled on the journey home, while if the
plants had got into such a bad way under culti-
vation, no amount of skill or care would have
been effectual in bringing them round. There
is, in short, an innate vigour in Orchids fresh
from their native habitats which in many
species is gradually lost under cultivation even
with the best care. In selecting plants from an
importation, those should be chosen that are
quite dormant, with, if possible, healthy leaves,
firm at the axils and fairly large, as represen-

84

THE GARDEN

[February 2, 1895

tative of the different species. An Oncidium
or an Odontogloasum, for instance, with eight
or nine good pseudo-bulbs, is preferable to two
plants with half that number each. When the
plants arrive, the first thing necessary is a
thorough and careful cleaning of all parts. All
decayed pseudo-bulbs, roots or leaves must be
cut clean away with a sharp Iniife. If only a
few plants are being treated, they may then be
laid upon pans filled with clean crocks, and
placed in a shady position in a warm house.
Where there is a considerable number a piece
of stage should be given up to them, the plants
being laid out thinly and sprinkled lightly with
tepid water daily. If more convenient they
may be suspended head downwards from the
roof, and this is perhaps the most suitable
treatment for Aerides, Vandas and others which,
from their habit of growth, are apt to collect
water in the axils of the leaves and the apices
of the plants. As soon as they are showing
signs of life by pushing new growths or roots
they may with safety be potted, blocked or
placed in baskets, as may be necessary. It is
importaut that they be not left until the roots
are far advanced, or some of these will probably
be broken oil' in potting. The ordinary com-
post as recommended for established plants of
the various kinds will be suitable, but it is
safer to add more small crocks and charcoal, so
as to ensure a quick passage for water. The
plants may also be elevated rather more than
usual. Great care must be exercised after pot-
ting and while the young growths of the pseudo-
bulbous kinds are pushing. A little too much
water, cold drip from the roof, or even an hour's
exposure to bright sunshine will often cause the
loss of these tiny shoots, greatly to the detri-
ment of the plants, as back breaks are never so
vigorous as the leading shoots. Cypripediums
are easily established by potting them at once
in clean crocks alone, watering them twice daily
until new roots are forming, and then giving a
little peat and Moss. Phalsenopsids, too, may
be successfully treated in this way, but these are
best without anything in the way of compost
for the first year, or with only a little fresh
Sphagnum Moss to retain a certain amount of
moisture. The plants must not be allowed to
bear many flowers at first, even if they show,
or the strongest ones will be weakened at the
outset. It is a good plan with Odontoglots and
others which produce many-flowered racemes to
remove all but one or two of the flowers the
first season. This will be quite sufficient to see
what the variety is like, but even these must
not be allowed to remain on the plants until
they fade. H. R.

Cattleya blenensis is a charming little hy-
brid between Cattleya Loddigesi and La-lia
pumila, in which the two kinds are admirably
blended. This is at present flowering with Messrs.
Williams and Son, of Holloway. It is of dwarf
habit, the flowers large and of good form, the
sepals and petals deeply flushed with rose. The
lip, resembling that of La-lia pumila, is white on
the side lobes, the front lobe being of an intense
bright crimson-purple.

Cycnocb.es peruvianum. — This was included
in the group staged by Messrs. F. Sander and
Co. at the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society. The plant carried a raceme of several
blooms, which were in size, shape and colour very
similar to those of C. pentadactylon. The colour
was a greenish yellow, spotted with reddish
brown, whilst the peculiarly foimed lip was
white and the long arching column very promi-
nent. A few of the species belonging to this
genus are especially interesting, and are not diffi-
cult to manage provided they are treated in a
proper manner. Whilst in active growth the
Cycnoches enjoy tropical heat and plenty of

moisture both in the atmosphere and at the roots,
but when the growths are complete, a cooler and
drier temperature will be found to suit them best.
At this time care must be taken with regard to
watering. — G.

DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM.

Tins is a magnificent Orchid, which from the
present time onwards will make a brilliant dis-
play. This species is annually imported in
enormous quantities from India, some coming
from Assam and the Khasia Hills and others
from Burmah. Those from the latter district,
however, have longer stems and larger blooms
than those from the first mentioned, although
the most highly coloured varieties appear to have
originated amongst the shorter-stemmed plants
from the Assam district. D. Wardianum was
named in compliment to Dr. Ward, of South-
ampton, with whom it flowered soon after its
introduction. It first bloomed in the Kingston
Nurseries, but this plant was thought to be a
variety of D. Falconeri, which it somewhat
resembles, especially in the formation of the

plenty of flowers. It appears to succeed best
when grown in baskets and suspended near the
glass, and should be potted in a compost of good
peat and Sphagnum Moss, with good drainage.
Having long pendulous bulbs, care should be
taken to fix the plants firmly when potting, so
that they do not rock about in the baskets, for
if left in this condition they cannot root into
the soil and become established. This charm-
ing Orchid is admirably adapted for cutting.
Wm. Huiih Gower.

Flower of Dendrobium Wardianum

bulbs. The foliage falls off annually and the
flowers appear in twos and threes from the joints
of the leafless stems at the present season. The
individual blooms often measure between 4
inches and 5 inches across and last a consider-
able time in perfection if kept dry. The sepals
and petals are white, mostly tipped more or less
with magenta-purple, and, as before stated, the
smaller blossoms have the richest colours. T'ie
lip is broad and remarkable for its fine colour,
being bright yellow on the disc, tipped similarly
to the sepals and petals and having two large
maroon blotches at the base, one on each side.
In Messrs. Williams and Son's nursery at the
present time are numerous forms in flower, some
having the sepals and petals almost pure white.
The variety named D. Wardianum candidum is
an exceedingly rare form with pure white blos-
soms, excepting a yellow stain on the lip and
two light reddish-coloured spots at the base. It
was introduced with the original importation
from Burmah by Messrs. Low, of Clapton, and
first flowered in the Broad Oaks collection at
Bury, in Lancashire. D. Wardianum enjoys
plenty of heat and moisture when in active
growth, but after this is complete a decided rest
is necessary to ripen the bulbs and to produce

LYCASTES.
Amateurs and others commencing the culture
of Orchids could hardly find a more suitable
genus than Lycaste to begin with. None are
easier to grow, and all of them are free-flower-
ing and handsome plants, most of the species-
being also very cheap. Although they all grow
with more or less freedom in the cool house,,
better results will be attained by giving the
plants a little more heat than Odontoglossums-
and other cool house Orchids require. Shade
from bright sunshine is also necessary, and an
airy, moist atmosphere
at all times, except while
in flower, when they must
be kept drier. Lycastes-
are easily propagated by
division of the plants,
L. Skinneri being espe-
cially amenable to this
treatment. They are best
grown in pots, which
must be clean and well
drained, and the compost-
may consist of lumpy
peat, chopped Sphagnum,
and finely-broken crocks,
with a little fibrous loam
added for the stronger
growing kinds.

The plants require an
abundant supply of water
at the roots during the
growing season, and even
when at rest they must
not be allowed to get
quite dry. Lycastes are
often attacked by a soft
brown scale, and some-
times by red spider if the
atmosphere is at all dry.
These must be kept in check by frequent
syringings with warm soapy water, care being
necessary in the operation to avoid puncturing
the somewhat tender foliage.

Lycaste Skinneri is the best known in the
genus, and one of the most useful Orchids in cul-
tivation. This species has many varieties, the
typical flowers being bright rose on the sepals
and petals, with crimson spots on the lip. By
having a sufficient number of plants and growing
these in slightly different temperatures, this
Orchid may be had in flower for at least five
months. Occasional applications of weak liquid
manure are helpful during the growing season,
first watering with clear water to ensure its
proper distribution. The variety alba is wholly
white, with the exception of a yellow stain on
the lip. Other varieties are delicatissima, nigro-
rubra, rosea, purpurea, superba, &c, the names
of these being descriptive of their variations from
the type.

L. aromatica is an extremely free-flowering
species, the blossoms being very fragrant. The
pseudo-bulbs are ovate, about 2 inches high, and
bear two or three broadly lanceolate, plaited,
light green leaves. From the base of these the
single-flowered scapes are plentifully produced.
Each flower is upwards of 2| inches across, bright

February 2, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

85

golden yellow, sometimes spotted on the lip with
orange-red. This species flowers at midsummer,
and lasts a long time in perfection. ,

L. Dbppei, like the preceding, deserves more
attention from growers than it receives. It is
similar in habit to L. aromatica, but the flowers
are larger. The sepals are greenish yellow with
abundant purple spots : the petals pure white,
and the lip yellow, spotted with crimson. The
variety punctatissima is larger than the type and
a superior Orchid. The blossoms are thickly
covered with purple spots and lines.

L. Harrison:.*; is a beautiful species, and quite
undeserving of the neglect into which it has
fallen. This frequently produces twin-flowered
scapes, each flower being about 3 inches across,
very thick and fleshy in texture. The ground
colour is creamy white, the lip yellow at the base
with purple markings. This species was re-
ferred to Bifrenaria by Reichenbach, being
slightly different from the other kinds in habit
and the formation of the flowers. This and its
variety alba are natives of Brazil, and require
more heat than the other species.

L. lanipes is one of the freest flowering Or-
chids in existence. It i9 a strong grower, having
pseudo-bulbs 4 inches high and leaves 18 inches
in length. The scapes are one-flowered and pro-
duced in autumn. They are not very showy,
being principally of a greenish white, but the
fact of their lasting so well when cut is a recom-
mendation.

L. plana is a bright and showy species and a
winter bloomer. The flowers are 3i inches across
with bright red sepals, the petals being white,
with a blotch of crimson upon the tips ; the lip is
roundish in front, white, spotted with crimson.
This has several varieties, including the compara-
tively well-known L. plana Measuresiana, but
most of them are very rare. H. R.

Oncidium splendidum. — This magnificent
Orchid has by some authorities been classed as a
variety of 0. tigrinum, to which in the flowers it
bears a strong resemblance. In habit, however, it is
so entirely different, that it is difficult to believe the
two in any way related. The roundish pseudo-
bulbs and the thick leathery leaves of 0. splendi-
dum are bronzy and rough in appearance, and the
spikes are produced from the base of the former.
On strong plants these are frequently 30 inches in
length, sometimes 3 feet. They are branched and
bear a large number of flowers. The compost for
this Orchid must be very free and open, as it
abhors anything like closeness about its roots. I
have found it do well in pots or shallow pans in
equal proportions of peat fibre and Sphagnum
Moss, with a free admixture of clean crocks. The
pots must be exceptionally well drained, a good
deal of water being required while the plants are
making their growth. It must be kept well up
to the light at all times, and while the pseudo-
bulbs are maturing be fully exposed to the sun.
The water supply must not be lessened until the
bulbs have quite finished swelling, or weak flower
spikes will be the result. This is an important
point too often lost sight of by growers. If they
would only watch the roots of this and other
Orchids during this period, and note how actively
these are searching for nutriment, it would prove
an instructive object lesson. Very little water is
required during the early winter months, in-
creasing the supply as the spikes develop. O.
splendidum thrives best in the Cattleya house all
the year round. — H. R.

Sophronitis violacea. — This pretty little
species is not often seen in flower, and although
lacking the showiness of some of the varieties of
S. grandiflora, the flowers have nevertheless a
peculiar charm. The colour is a soft purplish rose,
and the blooms are produced on single-flowered
scapes from the apices of the small oval pseudo-
bulbs. A plant of this species was in flower re-
cently in the collection of Captain Greenwood, of
Harnham Cliff, Salisbury, where it is grown on
small trellised blocks in the Cattleya house. It is

important that these small-growing species be
kept in an atmosphere free from fluctuations of
heat or moisture, or they cannot possibly thrive,
the plants often becoming the prey of scale and
other insects. S. violacea is a native of Brazil,
whence it was introduced in 1840.

Dendrobium Ainsworthi. — This is one of
the most beautiful of hybrid Uendrobes. The
plant in growth and habit resembles D. nobile,
one of the parents, the other being D. aureum.
It usually flowers about the present time, and
continues during February and March. The
sepals and petals are creamy white, flushed with
rose at the base, whilst the lip has a large central
blotch of bright amaranth-purple, with numerous
radiating lines of the same colour. The flowers
are also sweetly scented. — G.

DENDROBIUM NOBILE.

I noted the remarks on this useful old Orchid at
p. 15, and can confirm what " W. H. G." says of
it. 1 had a large specimen plant which flowered
annually at Christmas. One year it was particu-
larly well flowered, and I counted 1 400 blooms on
it. This happened twenty years since, and the
blooms at that time were worth 3s. per dozen.
The plant was broken up into a score of smaller
pieces, and I have them now, but instead of hav-
ing one plant in flower at Christmas I have two or
three smaller plants, and a succession of bloom
is kept up until June. In fact, I have had speci-
mens from that same plant in first-prize collec-
tions in London in that month. This is evidence of
the vigorous constitution of the species, for this
collection of a score of specimens was one small
plant in a 5-inch pot thirty-two years ago when I
took charge of it. There are other Dendrobiums
quite as beautiful or even more so, but none of
them would stand culture of this kind and in-
crease to the same extent. The idea still exists,
not only amongst amateurs, but even amount
gardeners, that it is necessary to have a special
Orchid house before any Orchids can be grown. I
can remember the time when Orchid houses were
practically unknown, and yet what fine speci-
mens were grown of this Dendrobium, Cattleya
Mossia?, Lselia purpurata, Phajus grandifolius,
&c, with little aid except the vineries or other
forcing houses.

Dendrobium nobile requires a growing season,
when the temperature must be high to obtain good
results, and after that a time of rest. The plants
flowering at Christmas should be placed in a tem-
perature of 60° to 65° as a minimum as soon as
they pass out of bloom in order to get the growths
matured early, and as the succession plants go
out of flower they must all pass through the same
treatment. All that the gardener has to do is to
keep them well supplied with water and in a moist
atmosphere while growing. If they push out
growths and roots freely from the tops of the
stems it is a sign that something is wrong with
the roots ; either they are not receiving enough
water, or the roots have got into bad condition by
the decay of the potting material. It is a good
time to re-pot any plants that need it when they
pass out of bloom, but do not over-pot. This
is an error which many anxious cultivators are
liable to commit. The pots are filled nearly half-
full of large pieces of broken pots, well placed ; over
the drainage I place a layer of Sphagnum Moss
and complete the transfer of the plant by getting
it out of the old flower-pot with as little injury to
the roots as possible. When the roots have laid
hold firmly of the inner surface of a flower-pot it is
better to break the pot to pieces and remove it
bit by bit than destroy half the roots. The com-
post should be fibrous peat torn to pieces and the
finer particles sifted out ; add to it a liberal pro-
portion of freshly- gathered, cleanly- washed Sphag-
num Moss and clean potsherds. Pot firmly and
always raise the plants above the surface in the
form of a cone. This is the treatment most of the
Dendrobiums receive, from the small-growing
species with stems an inch high to the more
gigantic specimens, such as D. Dalhousianum,

with fl-feet stems. Some, of course, do better
in baskets ; indeed, most of them will succeed
as well in baskets as in pots. The best
grown plants of Dendrobium nobile I ever saw
were in the garden of Viscount Portman, Buxted
Park (gardener, Mr. Prinsep). The plants are cut
down annually, and each year new growths are
made, all the flowering growths being cut away.
Those who try this plan must remember that this
Dendrobium makes its growths one season and the
flowers are produced from those growths the fol-
lowing year. All Mr. Prinsep's plants were grown
and flowered in large teak baskets.

J. Douglas.

Calanthe Textorei.— This fine species be-
longs to the veratrifolia section. It is an ever-
green plant, and will succeed in a much cooler
temperature than the deciduous kinds. It should
be grown in large pots and given plenty of water
whilst in active growth. The flowers, pro-
duced on a stout erect scape, which grows to
a height of from 18 inches to 2 feet, are pure
white, the petals and lip being shaded with pale
mauve when first expanded. This plant is a
native of Japan, whence it was imported about
eighteen years ago by Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea.
— \V. H. G.

Sophronitis grandiflora. — I have noted this
plant flowering well in many collections during
the winter, especially in the neighbourhood of
London. Its bright scarlet blossoms make a
striking and pleasing contrast to those of other
Orchids which may also be in bloom. It may be
grown either upon a block of wood or in a small
basket, but the best results I have noticed have
been where shallow pans suspended close to the
glass are used. — W.

LJELIA SUPERBIENS.

This is a noble species when well grown, and al-
though small plants do not as a rule flower freely,
when once these attain a good size there will be no
cause for complaint on this score. The pseudo-
bulbs are each about 18 inches in length and bear
on the apex a pair of deep green leaves. The
spikeB proceed from between these, and are each
from 4 feet to 5 feet in length, although naturally
thej- are said to grow to 10 feet or 12 feet. The
flowers occur in loose umbels on the tops of the
spikes, as many as sixteen not being uncommon
on strong plants. The sepals and petals are rosy-
pink, the lip deeper in colour, streaked with gol-
den-yellow. L. superbiens requires liberal treat-
ment to grow it well. The pots should be large
enough to take the plants easily, as the roots are
strong and seem inclined to ramble in search of
nutriment. The compost should be open, but sub-
stantial, and I have had good results from the use of
partly decayed leaf mould in equal proportions with
peat, broken into lumps as large as a walnut, and
Sphagnum Moss. Plenty of charcoal must be
added, and if it can be procured, some rough
pieces of burnt clay or ballast, as it is termed at
the potteries. This material is very suitable for
use in large pots or baskets, as it is very porous
and not so liable to injure the roots as the sharp-
edged potsherds. This species enjoys a slightly
higher temperature than most of the genus, and
does well in the company of L. purpurata and
others in a spacious house where plenty of head
room can be afforded it. It will not thrive in a
low, close structure with its head nearly touching
the glass. Sometimes, owing to the vigour of the
leading growths, large plants get bare towards the
centre, and when this is the case the rhizome
should be notched half way through between the
second snd third pseudo-bulbs in order to induce
the dormant eyes to start into growth. This im-
proves the appearance of the plants without in any
way interfering with the full development of the
leading growths, which if the rhizome was cut
right through would probably sustain a severe
check. L. superbiens is a native of Guatemala,
where it was discovered more than half a century
ago by Mr. G. Ure-Skinner.

8G

THE GARDEN.

[February 2, 189o.

Stove and Greenhouse.

THE CHIMNEY BELLFLOWER.

(campanula pyramidalis.j

them, and early in September the final or
flowering shift, which, in the case of strong
plants, will be 10-inch or 12-inch pots. I have
seen them in larger pots, but the gain does not
correspond with the amount of labour expended.
These sizes are quite large enough for wintering
This handsome species of the Bellflower family the plants in in cold frames ; larger would be
is a European plant, having been introduced cumbrous. These plants will be fit for standing
into this country more than 350
years back ; hence it is fully en-
titled to be classed as an " old-
fashioned plant." It stands out
still as one of the very finest of
its race in every respect, being an
easy plant to grow, a most pro-
lific flowerer, and a very showy
one when in bloom, lasting also
for a length of time in that state
when well managed. The culture
of this Campanula was probably
more popular before glass houses
came so much to the front, being
a subject easily kept through the
winter with a little protection if
possible, it being certainly more
secure if this be accorded, al-
though in favoured positions it
may be wintered in safety on
sheltered borders. It is, however,
as a cool greenhouse or conserva-
tory plant that its beauties are
brought out in their best character,
and as such it can be recommended
for extended cultivation even in
these, days, when other attractions
are much more numerous than of
yore. The subject of the illustra-
tion is an example of what may
be accomplished under good cul-
ture, thus making essentially a
specimen plant of no mean attrac-
tions. It is taken from a plant of
the pure white variety with larger
flowers than usual. For quite cool
houses of any aspect the Chimney
Bellflower can be strongly recom-
mended as a most useful flowering
plant, coming into bloom about
the middle of July and lasting
until the end of September. I have
had the same plants good for this
period by continuously picking off
the seed-pods ; unless this be
followed up the later flowers will
not develop, as all the strength
seems directed towards the swell-
ing of the seed-vessels. At the base
of the stalk of each flower others
in the embryo stage may be noted,
and these will be repeatedly re-
produced until the plant is finally
exhausted if the seed-pods are not
allowed to swell. Honey-bees
are particularly fond of this Cam-
panula. I have noted them by
hundreds very busy at work ;
hence probably more pods swell
than would otherwise do so. There
are various modes of

Culture
that can be adopted according to
circumstances. If plants of large
size be wanted, such as will pro

The Chimney Bellflower (Campanula pyramidalis compacta).
photograph sent by Mr. J. Hudson, Gunnersbury House, Act

duce from fifteen to twenty or more spikes, i out-of-doors by the middle of March with a
these reaching a height of 7 feet or more, | little shelter, it being a good plan to plunge
then it is best to sow the seed in August < them straight away in cinder ashes up to the
in a cold frame and winter the plants i rims. This, in fact, is the best way to winter
afterwards in 3-inch pots, these being potted ! them in the frames, so as to protect the pots
about the following March into one or two | from breakage by frost. Another plan by which
sizes larger, according to their vigour. Early I some amount of time is saved, as well as one
m the summer another shift should be given ' wintering in frames, is to sow in February in a

gentle warmth, gradually hardening off, until
cold frame treatment will suffice when well
established after pricking off. These plants
should not be stood out-of-doors fully ex-
posed until established in 4£-inch pots, and
then it will be better to plunge them, se-
as to avoid any undue amount of water-
ing. These plants will take two shifts before
the following winter if well cared
for. In any case a late shift
should not be given, otherwise
the plants will not have time to
re - establish themselves before
winter. I much prefer to give
the final shift in the autumn, but
if room for storing in cold frames
be limited, then the final shift may
be given when the plants are stood
outside in the spring. From the
time of seed-raising onwards avoid
overcrowding, pricking the seed-
lings off for the first time, as in the
case of Celery, quite early and in
shallow boxes. Firm potting is
very essential, it being productive
of a sturdier and more compact
growth. The chief factor as re-
gards soil is good loam, road
scrapings being a good addition
thereto in lieu of sand. I do not
advise any free use of manure in
the soil ; some small amount of
well-decomposed leaf-mould or of
spent Mushroom manure would be
ample. Later on when the spikes
are advancing an occasional appli-
cation of an artificial stimulant or
of liquid farmyard manure will
greatly benefit the plants. In no-
case, however, should excessive
watering be indulged in ; it must
rather be guarded against, as pre-
judicial to the plants, more particu-
larly when coming into flower.
If this point in their culture be
not attended to, the plants will
cast their foliage prematurely,
being denuded of leaves at the
base, thus looking lean and meagre.
The best method of support, which
can scarcely be dispensed with, is
slender Bamboo sticks painted
green. By the use of these in a
moderate manner there will be
nothing unsightly. It will be well,
however, to do the staking twice ;
first as supports in a temporary
manner during growth, otherwise
the shoots, by reason of their very
rapid development, will split away
at the base, and, secondly, just
prior to the first flowers opening.

Having secured a specially good
strain of seedlings by selection, it
is well to stand aside the best of
these for seeding, only allowing
the finer flowers to produce seed.
If it is desirable to propagate
particular varieties by themselves,
it can easily be accomplished by
the roots, as in the case of Seakale
by sets. This mode of increase
should be attended to as soon as
the plants go out of flower, making the sets
as in the case of Seakale, they being smaller of
course. These should be covered with silver sand
for a few days to stop any bleeding, and then they
can be pricked off into boxes and put into cold
frames. The selection made by Mr. Wy'thes, of
Syon House, is of dwarfer growth with stout
spikes, bearing the flowers well down to thebase ;

From a
on.

February 2, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

87

the individual flowers are large and show con-
siderable variation in colour. This is known as
the "cdmpacta" strain or Syon House varietv.
The plant from which the photograph of the
plate was taken was only 3 feet 6 inches in
height from the pot. Pl.antsman.

Ferns.

VARIEGATED FERNS FOR THE
WARM HOUSE.

Although, generally speaking, Ferns requiring
stove temperature are not considered as useful
from a decorative point of view as their con-
geners of a hardier constitution, the list of
their variegated forms contains some equally
well-marked plants, some of which are of easy
culture, and I may also add that most of them
possess decorative qualities to a very high degree.
If we take the genus Adiantuoi, we find several
nicely variegated forms, the most remarkable
amongst them being undoubtedly the beauti-
fully coloured A. macrophyllum albo-striatum,
a somewhat cumbersome name for such a very
handsome plant. It is an extremely pretty form
which, according to reliable information, appears
to have made its appearance simultaneously
in England, in France and in Belgium some
ten years ago — an occurrence which can scarcely
be accounted for in any way. In each case the
variegated plant has preserved the erect, some-
what rigid habit of the typical species, and
the fronds, rising from an underground creep-
ing rhizome, attain from 12 inches to 18 inches
in height. Their large and peculiarly-shaped
leaflets are, like those of the type, of a delicate
pink or red colour, which eventually attains a
crimson hue ; but they are irregularly, but
abundantly striped with white, which variega-
tion, besides being the principal ornament of
the partially developed fronds, remains perfectly
di-tinct and prominent when the foliage has
assumed its permanent bright green colour.
Some grand specimens of this lovely Fern were
exhib'ted by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons at the
Temple show last May, when the pleasing mix-
ture of the colours was much admired.

A. CUNEATUM VABIEOATUlt, a plant sent out
some two years ago by Messrs. Pitcher and Manda,
is certainly distinct in itself, but it is questionable
whether the variegation, although well marked,
is sufficiently conspicuous to add to the decorative
value of the plant, which, by its loose habit and
the slender nature of its fronds, reminds one much
more of a variegated form of A. elegans than of
the popular Maiden-hair Fern. A much better
form of A. cuneatum with variegated foliage
made itsappearance in 1871 among the thousands
of seedlings which were then annually raised in
Messrs. H. Low and Co.'s nurseries at Clapton,
for in those days A. elegans was not known. In
this case the variegation was exceptionally good,
the very dark green colour peculiar to the mature
fronds of the species being copiously relieved by
pure white streaks, which extended to all parts of
the little fronds. Unfortunately, that most in-
teresting and very promising plant was, through
neglect, lost to cultivation and to the floral
decorator. Instead of being separated during the
process of pricking off, three or four seedlings had,
as is frequently the case, been allowed to remain
together, and one day the plant with the varie-
gated portion in it was found to have disappeared
among a quantity of young A. cuneatum, which
had been disposed of for decorative purposes. This
occurrence is all the more to be regretted, as the
reproducticn of the plant would have been watched
with the utmost interest. Should another such
form make its appearance spontaneously now, it
would most likely be carefully preserved and be
propagated by the division of the crown, if not
from spores. In

A. Claesianum we have a new variegated Fern,
which is also a valuable acquisition. It was in-
troduced from Brazil and exhibited at the Temple
show last May by M. Linden, of Brussels (who
named it after his collector, M. Claes, who dis-
covered it), when it was much admired by all who
saw it. Its growth is compact and tufted ; its
fronds, about 9 inches long, are composed of
rhomboid pinnules of comparatively large dimen-
sions, of a pale green colour, ornamented with a
silver blotch at the ba6e, from whence numerous
silver lines radiate to the margins, which are
bluntly toothed. It is stated that it reproduces
itself perfectly true from spores. It is, however,
in the genus Pteris that the most useful as well
as the most striking Ferns requiring stove tem-
perature are found. As regards beauty and richness
of colour, there is no other variegated Fern which
can bear comparison with

P. tricolor, one of the most charming Ferns
ever introduced into cultivation. According to
Lowe ("New and Rare Ferns," t. '.)), who de-
scribes it as " being graceful in habit, elegant in
form, moderate in size, and splendidly variegated
with green, white and red, well contrasted," it
was introduced from Malacca by M. Linden.
Although this really handsome plant has been
known in collections for upwards of thirty years,
it is only now and then that we hear of someone
having succeeded in growing it to perfection, and
in most cases this happens seemingly without
anything special in the way of cultivation. Its
well-being evidently depends more on local or
climatic influences than on skilful treatment. As
a proof of this, it may be staled that in some
places where formerly this beautiful Fern was
thriving it will now hardly grow, in spite of un-
changed treatment ; whereas, in other places,
where for years it only contrived to exist, it
occasionally makes a sudden burst and for a
season or so grows apace. In the form and habit
of this plant it resembles P. aspericaulis so closely
as to leave no doubt as to its being a variegated
form of that Fern, from which it is distinguished
principally by the brilliant colour of its fronds,
which sometimes attain 2 feet in length. These
when young are of a purplish red or bright rose
colour, and when mature their leaflets are of a
vivid dark green at their edges, while their basal
part is silver-grey, their midrib being of a per-
manent bright purplish colour. The diversity of
colours in the fronds in different stages of develop-
ment at the same time on each plant greatly adds
to its beauty. If

P. aroyrea, also introduced from the East
Indies by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, lacks the
extreme brilliancy of the form above described, it
may, on the other hand, claim to be perhaps the
most useful of variegated Ferns where size is of
some consideration. It is by far the more useful
of the two East Indian forms and is particularly
well adapted for pot culture for decoration, its
gracefully arching fronds under liberal treatment
frequently exceeding 4 feet in length. On account
of its remarkably well-defined and striking varie-
gation it is most effective, as the large band of
silvery white in the centre of its fronds and leaf-
lets forms a most pleasing contrast with the lively
green by which it is surrounded in every part of
the plant. Although sometimes recommended
for growing in a cool house, where it thrives very
well during the summer, this useful species evi-
dently requires a higher temperature during the
winter ; its dislike to cold is clearly indicated by
the brownish colour which its fronds, even when
mature, assume under cool treatment in winter.
Another very prettily variegated form of Pteris
sent out by Mr. Bull some four or five years ago
under the name of

P. Victorls: has all the appearance and is said to
be exactly the same plant as P. ensiformis variegata
of Moore, exhibited at one of the meetings of the
Royal Botanic Society as far back as June, 1877,
when it received a first-class certificate. lb is a
remarkably slender and graceful plant of small
dimensions, producing two entirely distinct sorts
of fronds, the barren ones being few in number,
small and prostrate, while the fertile ones, up-

right and abundant, are 12 inches to 15 inches long
ind composed of narrow leaflets about a quarter
if an inch broad. They are particularly attrac-
tive on account of their silver markings, which
ire conspicuous throughout the plant. Although
it reproduces itself freely from spores, this Fern
is given to variation, and some of the seedlings
raised from it are thoroughly distinct ; thus, for
instance, is May'sJ

P. REins.E, which is of much more vigorous
constitution, and in which the variegation runs in
narrow stripes to the margins of the leaflets,
showing very little, if any, of the green border
noticeable in P. Victoria?. P. Regime cristata,
also raised in Mr. May's nurseries at Edmonton, is
another form with beautifully and distinctly va-
riegated foliage of a more slender nature and very
elegant habit on account of its fronds being very
prettily and regularly crested.

P. sobilis, or, as it is more commonly called,
Doryopteris nobilis, is another handsomely varie-
gated Fern requiring stove temperature. It is a
native of Southern Brazil, and, so far as general
appearance is concerned, totally different from
other Pterises. Its fronds, borne on naked, wiry
stalks, vary considerably as regards shape and
size, according to the age of the plant on which
they are produced. In its young state it only pro-
duces single, heart-shaped fronds, and the next
ones are sagittate or arrow-shaped ; while those
eventually developed are halbert - shaped and
finally somewhat palmate in form, with the ter-
minal and the upper lateral leaflets entire and the
lower lateral ones divided into two or four spear-
shaped segments on their lower side. They are
of a bright green colour, and their broad, slightly
undulated segments are ornamented throughout
their centre with a broad white band, which
gradually diminishes in intensity towards the

To the above list of variegated Ferns may
also be added the variegated forms of Sela-
ginellas, as they are closely related and thrive
under the same treatment. Besdes the golden
and the silver forms of the common Selaginella,
respectively called S. Kraussiana aurea and S. K.
variegata, which during the winter require to
be kept close to the light in order to prevent
their damping off, the most popular, the most
useful and the best known is S. Martensi varie-
gata. This variety has retained the habit and
vigour of the typical plant, which is of erect
habit, but the dark green leaves which clothe
the succulent stems, whiuh on their under-
side produce a great quantity of roots, are
profusely blotched with creamy white— a cha-
racter which, though not quite constant, is
readily reproduced by means of cuttiugs, which
root freely in a light porous soil and a warm,
moist atmosphere. Duodu .

Polypodium (Phleb:dium) aureum areo-
latum.— Where cut flowers are in demand and
glass accommodation somewhat limited, there i-i
often at this time of the year a great strain on the
resources, which can only be met by growing such
things as last well in a cut state. Foliage, too,
must be provided in plenty, as the open garden
will not now give much variety in this way.
Ferns are largely grown for the purpose, and most
of them associate well with cut flowers of any
kind, their worst fault being a tendency to wither
quickly. A most useful kind (especially for
large vases) which has not this fault is the one
named above. Fronds of this which were cut
more than three weeks ago are now looking as
fresh as when cut. The glaucous hue on the
foliage shows up well under artificial light, the
fronds looking quite silvery and distinct from any
other thing we have. This Fern is quite one of
the easiest to grow, as it is not at all fastidious as
to soil. Given plenty of drainage and plenty of
water, good fronds and plenty of them will be
forthcoming. Like most of the Polypodiums,
growth commences late in the season and the

88

THE GARDEN.

'February 2, 1895.

plants are at their best in mid-winter, which is a
great advantage. Anyone wishing to add to his
stock of useful winter fine-foliaged plants could
not do better than get a few plants of this if not
already in stock.— J. C. Tallack.

Notes of the Week.

Snowdrops. — It is worthy of notice how much
later these are coming into bloom this year than
last. Three years ago I had them in full bloom
at the end of January, but now (January 26) they
are only just showing flower. On a shallow ledge
where they generally come early they are equally
late. I think this arises from the cold summer.
—J. Crook, Forile Abbey.

"Water Hawthorn.— The slight frosts we had
in October did not seem to check the blooming
of this interesting water plant, fresh flowers
appearing until a few days before Christmas.
Aponogeton distachyon does best when planted
in about 2 feet of water, and if it can be placed
where the water enters the pond it will do much
better and have a better chance of not being
frozen.— J. W. H.

The Genevan Plant Protection Society.—
I said in my last letter that I would not answer
further letters of Mr. Leonard, and I will keep my
word. Readers of The Garden who would like
to have an answer about these letters will find
them in our next " Bulletin de l'Association pour
la Protection des Plantes,'' which will appear this
month or in the beginning of March, and which
will be sent to anyone who asks for it. —
H. Correvon, Geneva.

Bona moschata nive'.— In his account of
Rota moschata nivea "A. H." says that as to its
origin and history he can give no information at
all. In the Botanical Reyixter, vol. x., 861, he
will find a good plate of it, with its full history,
by Dr. Lindley. It is a beautiful Rose, and
easily propagated by cuttings. I have had it for
many years. It is not in the Kew list of Roses,
but I believe they have it.— Henry N. Ella-
combe.

Helleborus colchicus Zenith.— I do not
know if the above variety of H. colchicus is grown
in many gardens. If not, it would make a beau-
tiful addition to the early spring -flowering plants.
It is quite a distinct foim, and much earlier than
any of the Lenten Roses. Since the first week in
December flowers of the above have been plentiful.
Although the stems were short when the first
flowers developed, they are now 6 inches or 8 inches
in length, with several well-expanded flowers on
eicji. The colour is a very rich purple ; the petals
inside look as if they are lined with velvet, the
centre having a large cluster of cream-coloured
stamens, wiiioh add to the beauty of the flowers.

—J. w. a.

Olearia Haasti.— In The Garden of January
12, and also of January 26, much has been said in
favour of this most useful and ornamental shrub.
While cordially supporting all that has been said
in praise of this plant, I should like to point out
an additional good quality not mentioned by your
other conespondents. Olearia Haasti is one of
the few flowering shrubs that will thrive beneath
the shade of other trees, and I have frequently
seen it succeed in places so densely shaded, that
even common Laurel would not grow. It flowers
late in the season, when the blooms of spring-
flowering shrubs are past, and is all the more valu-
able on that account. When planting shrubs
beneath the shade of trees we generally fall back
on Aucuba, Holly, Yew, Laurel, and such like,
and an evergreen flowering shrub, such as Olearia
Haasti, will be welcomed, especially as its flowers
appear at a season when theie are comparatively
few shrubs in blccm.— F. W. Meyer, Exeter.

A i ote from Oregon.— Our old friend Dr.
Bolander writine to ue under date January 10

from Portland, Oregon, says : "The immediate
environs of Portland are not rich in plants, but the
regions of the mountains near by certainly are.
From any small elevation of this town (of 75,000
inhabitants) we have in sight the snow-capped
mountains : Mt. Hood, 12,000 feet to 13,000 feet ;
Mt. Adams about the same height, Mt. St.
Helens and Mt. Rainier. I am told that Mt.
Adams and Mt. Rainier are very rich in curious
plants. Mt. Hood is not, neither on its east nor
its west side, for I ascended both. The environs
of this city are grand. Besides the mountains we
have in the city the navigable river Willamette,
joining the great Columbia 13 miles below here.
The most of the land is still covered with large
coniferous forest trees, Douglas Spruce predomi-
nating. The southern part of this State has
more the make up of Northern California. We
had a catalogue of plants of the entire State by
Thomas Howell, but it is now out of print. The
author is now working at a flora of this State. I
am now an old man, unable to go much about,
but still I cultivate many plants in a small garden
to while away my leisure time. A few words on
climate. Our winters are in the main very short.
Snow 1 foot to 2 feet only in some winters, like
the present. Tea Roses hardly ever freeze.
Rain a good deal till June, but not thirteen
months, as our enemies say. During July till
September often not a drop of rain falls. This is a
pity. The summer heat is not great, the nights
being cool."

National Chrysanthemum Society. — In
addition to the three exhibitions announcerl to
take place at the Royal Aquarium in October,
November and December, the usual show of early
Chrysanthemums, Dahlias and Gladioli will be
held on September 3, 4 and 5, the National
Chrysanthemum Society giving £20 in prizes
for early Chrysanthemums, and £10 towards the
Dahlia and Gladioli classes, supplemented by a
grant of £50 from the Royal Aquarium Society.
The schedule of prizes will be issued, as heretofore,
with that of the National Chrysanthemum Society.

The Gardeners' Orphan Fund.— A meet-
ing of the executive committee took place at the
Hotel Windsor on the 25th ult , Mr. William
Marshall in the chair, there being, as usual, a
large attendance of members. The secretary, Mr.
A. F. Barron, announced the following special
donations: From Mr. M. Todd, seedsman, Edin-
burgh, sale of flowers, £13 10s. ; Mr. H. J. Jones,
Ryocroft Nursery, Lewisham, visitors to his dis-
play of Chrysanthemums, £9 ; the Midland Car-
nation Society, Birmingham, per Mr. R. Syden-
ham, £5; Mr. J. Kipling, The Gardens, Kneb-
worth, skating on the lake, £2 ; Mr. H. Herbst,
Kew Road, Richmond, £1 Is. ; Mr. W H Divers,
The Gardens, Belvoir Castle, Grantham, Ss. 4d.'
From boxes : Mr. William Marshall, Auchinraith,
Bexley, £1 7s. lOd. ; Mr. J. Hughes, Harborne,
Birmingham, £1 3s. 3d. ; Mr. G. Fry, Lewisham,
£1 Is lOd. ; Mr. H. Perkins, The Gardens, Green-
lands, Henley-on-Thames, 10s; also a number of
small sums, also from boxes, and all equally wel-
come. The secretary brought up a draft report
and balance-sheet of a satisfactory character, con-
sidering the general depression in business. They
were passed for presentation at the annual general
meeting on February 8, at which Mr. Harrison,
of Leicester, will preside.

The weather in West Herts.— A very cold
week. On the coldest clay (Monday) the tempera
ture in shade at no time exceeded 3"o°, and during
the following night a thermometer exposed on the
sin face of the snow indicated 25° of frost, or a
lower reading than any previously recorded during
the present winter. A similar reading was also
registered on Tuesday night At 2 feet deep the
temperature of the ground is now within 4°, and
at 1 foot deep within 2° of the freezing-point.
During the past month there have only been seven
mild dajsand the Same number of mild nights.
Taken re a whole, it was the coldest January I

have yet recorded here, my observations dating
from 1885. The mean temperature of the soil was
also low, being at the depth of 1 foot 1° below the
January average for the previous nine years. Rain
or snow fell on no fewer than twenty-two days,
and to the total depth of 3 inches, which is rather
more than a charter of an inch in excess of the
mean for the month. There were three distinct
falls of snow. On the 13th the ground was covered
to the depth of 3.; inches, on the 22nd to the depth
of 2i inches, and on the 28th it was 1J inches deep.
Besides being cold and wet this was also an un-
usually gloomy January, the average record of
sunshine only amounting to about an hour a day.
Another feature of the month was the great pre-
dominance of north-westerly winds ; indeed, for
altogether 432 hours, or eighteen days, the direc-
tion of the wind has been some point between
west and north. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

What's in a name ? — While thoroughly sym-
pathising with the dislike felt by some of your
correspondents to the many plant names that are
uncouth and very long, we ought to remember
that there is the other side of the question. If
we want to correspond or share information with
Continental friends, I fear that Virgin Bower
Bald Money, Avens, Almond Cross, and other ex-
cellent British names might not avail always to
identify our plants. The constant revision and
d vision of generic names is a sorrow in all
branches of natural history. It would seem as if
sub-genera might meet the case in many instances
without disturbing names well known and under-
stood. Then as to specific names, it would indeed
be a gain if a little self-restraint were practised,
especially by some German and Russian botanists,
so as to avoid, for the sake of weaker brethren,
such stumbling-blocks as Kolpakowskiana, Szo-
vitzianum, Tschihatchewi, and the like, memorials
no doubt of dear and honoured friends, but strik-
ing us as somewhat effusive. Though as to this,
too, we perhaps look at the matter from an in-
sular point of view, for an attempt to pronounce
our surnames might prove aneejually stiff obstacle
to them. As to the myriad hosts of florist flower
names, no doubt there is a very natural feeling in
their authors of pride and satisfaction which leads
them to associate a novelty with some beloved
member of the domestic circle or some generous
patron, and being a very human tendency it is
likely to continue. — F. L. S.

Plants wanted. — Perhaps some of your
readers can tell me where a good strong clump of
Lathyrus magellanicus (true) can be had. I have
searched many catalogues and cannot find it.
I also want seeds of Dipsacus sylvestris or lacinia-
tus. I suppose seedsmen think Teasels too com-
mon for their lists, but none grow wild in the
north, and I want them for a bit of wild gardening.
— M. P. Forster, Gorbridgt-on-Tyne.

RAINFALL IN 1894.

Oteley Park, Ellesmere, Shropshire.

Number
of cUys on
Month. Total depth. Greatest fall in which -01

24 hours. or more fell.

Inches. Depth. Date.
Jai. ... 2-38 — 25

Feb. ... 210 — — 21

March ... 176 — 15

April ... 1-681 — — 18

May ... 29.V — — 21

June ... 277i — 18

July ... 345 1-49 24 18

AuK. ... 8-81 - 23

Sept. ... 0-72 — — 7

Oct. ... 30 — 14

Nov. ... 310 — — 19

Dec. ... 253 — — 20

Total ... 29-461

-C. A. Pearse.

219

Name of plant. — Jas. Hartland. — Jnbtkia.
calycotricha.

Name of fruit.— Jot. Eartland.— Apple not
recognised.

THE GARDEN.

89

No. 1212. SA TURD A Y, Februa y 9, 1895. Vol. XLVII.

" This is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Natore."— Shakespeare.]

Orchids.

.NOTES ON ORCHIDS.

The lengthening days herald a period of in-
creased activity among Orchids, and all arrears
of winter work, as cleaning and preparing com-
posts, should be completed without delay. Deci-
duous Calanthes as they go out of bloom should
be placed on a dry shelf in a warm house in the
pots in which they have been grown. No
attempt should be made to start them until they
break naturally, when they may be placed at
once in their flowering pots, starting in small
pots being quite unnecessary. Many Cypripe-
diunis may now be potted — in fact any not be-
ing in flower that require it. Equal parts of
peat, chopped Sphagnum, and fibrous loam,
with plenty of charcoal and small crocks, will
suit the stronger growing kinds, while for those
of weaker growth less loam should be used, and
some rough pieces of limestone added or used
in place of crocks for drainage. Other strong-
growing semi-terrestrial Orchids, as Anguloas,
Peristeria, and Phaius, may as soon as signs of
new growtli appear be repotted, using a com-
post similar to that for the strong-growing Cypri-
pedes, enriched with a little dried cow manure.
Especial care must be taken with the drainage
of all these Orchids, as they require so much
water when growing. In potting, remove all
decayed roots with a sharp knife and all sour
portions of the compost. Beginners in Orchid
culture are apt to be afraid of burrowing with
the hands among the roots for this purpose, but
this is a mistake, as if carefully treated after-
wards no harm can accrue from this ; whereas if
the soured compost and half-rotten roots arc
allowed to remain, then decay soon spreads to
the sound and healthy portions. The tempera-
ture of the Cattleya house must now be slightly
increased, and the atmosphere kept proportion-
ately moist. Where sucli as C. Trianre and C.
Schrcederi are in bloom, care must be taken
that no water touches the flowers, as this soon
spots them, greatly marring their beauty. Late
plants of Dendrobium nobile and others must
not be kept too moist, as until the flower-buds
can be distinctly seen there is always a danger
of their producing growths instead. Those Den-
drobes that are naturally late in finishing up their
growth, as D. macrophyllum and D. Dalhousi-
anuni, should be encouraged to grow as early
as possible, in order that the new pseudo-bulbs
may ripen with the waning sun in autumn.
Plants of Lrelia anceps as they go out of flower
may be repotted if necessary, but this ought
not to be oftener than once in two or three
years, provided some of the surface compost is
removed annually and a little fresh substituted.
In repotting set the leading growths as far as
possible from the rims of the pots and bed the
compost firmly. Keep a sharp look-out for
yellow thrips on Masdevallias coming into
flower, as they soon ruin the appearance of the
flowers if not kept under. The roots of these
Orchids are now very active and they must not
be allowed to get dry. Green fly is also
beginning to be troublesome both among these
and the advancing spikes of Oncidiums and
Odontogiossums. If these are daily looked for
and removed with a slightly damp sponge, there
will be no need of fumigating, but a little

tobacco powder or sulphur may with advantage
be dusted lightly about the young growths.
Odontoglossum citrosmum must be kept quite
dry at the roots until the flower-spikes can be
seen in the points of the young growths. It
does not matter if the pseudo-bulbs shrivel,
as they quickly plump up again if watered as
soon as the spikes are visible. A light position
at the cool end of the Cattleya house suits this
Orchid at this season. Vandas, Aerides and
similar Orchids must, as soon as they are seen
to be on the move, be top-dressed with Sphag-
num Moss. If there is the slightest disposition
to souring, let all the old Moss be picked and
washed away, all decayed roots cut off and the
sound ones relaid among new material, covering
as many as possible of the air-roots at the same
time. Keep all glass, stages and pots clean,
have the houses washed out daily, and sprinkle
a little soot and lime under stages and in out-of-
the-way corners. Small pieces of Potato or
Carrot laid about in the evenings and examined
every morning make good traps for woodlice
and small snails, which must be diligently kept
under, or they will work much mischief among
the young roots and tender growths. H. R.

Angraecum Iieonis.— Of this singularly dis-
tinct species there is a large stock in one house at
St. Albans. These plants are unusually vigorous,
with the characteristic fleshy leaves of large size,
the aerial roots being correspondingly abundant.
This species with its large sweetly-scented blos-
soms of the purest white is one of the best of all
Orchids in cultivation for bouquets, sprays, &c.
For this purpose its flowers would undoubtedly
be much sought after by florists if it were more
plentiful. What a contrast is afforded in one
genus between such as A. Leonis and A. sesqui-
pedale, A. citratum and A. eburneum !— Ori'uis.

Pilumna nobilis.— The older variety, Pi-
iumna fragrans, is the better known, or rather
more plentiful species, but P. nobilis is much the
better variety. I was told the other day by a
good Orchid grower that the sweet-scented Pi-
lumnas, or Trichopilias as they are now called,
degenerated in a few years after a course of treat-
ment in our hothouses. This degeneration is
caused, I believe, through growing the plants too
warm. The Cattleya house is too warm for them,
as I find the plants succeed well year after year if
grown in the cool house along with the Odonto-
giossums, the pseudo-bulbs finishing up to a large
size. Another mistake is through over potting.
If potted at first in a well-drained pot, using the
best fibrous peat, the plants need not be dis-
turbed for three or four years unless the compost
has become sodden. The rooting material only
requires to be kept fairly moist whilst the plants
are growing. After growth is finished only give
enough water to keep the plants plump.— A.
Young.

Cypripedium species at St. Albans.—
These are, like the hybrids, grown in immense
quantities, no opportunity of adding to the collec-
tion being lost. Many of these are species that
have been imported direct from their native
habitats ; but whether this be the case or not, all
are in most luxuriant growth, finding evidently
a very congenial home in the light, low span-
roofed houses. C. Chamberlainianum is repre-
sented by some very fine, healthy, well-established
plants, some of which are just coming into flower,
and, considering the fresh condition of the plants,
the best possible results should obtain. There is
one remarkable feature about the flowers of this
distinct species which I had not noted until my
attention was drawn to it by Mr. Maynard. It is
in the twist of the petals, the right petal turning
under and the left over ; this appears to be a fixed
character of this variety. There is at the present
time a very fine stock of C. Bayanum, which for
the sake o"f its beautifully marked foliage alone
is worthy of a place in any collection. It is

beyond doubt the best of any in this respect, the
pure silvery mottling standing out in such con-
trast to the pale green. I recollect well seeing
this Cypripedium in Mr. Day's collection at
Tottenham at the time of its introduction. The
montanum vars. of C. insigne are plentiful and so
very distinct. C. villosum aureuin, in its true
character, and C. villosum Colossea, with extra
large bold-looking flowers of deep colour (a very
fine form), were both good. C. callosum and C.
Spicerianum were both in flower, the latter being
a superior variety. C. Sanderianum, which belongs
to the Selenipedium section, is a distinct species,
with elongated petals and a pointed lip ; its in-
fluence will no doubt be apparent before long in
the hybrids. Most of the true Cypripediums at
St. Albans are grown in the span-roofed houses
already noted, but those of the Selenipedium type
are chiefly to be found in the long corridor-like
structure. — Orchis.

Cattleya Trianse.— The flowers of this fine
spring-flowering species are now commencing to
open. The first flowers I have seen this year were
in the Victoria Nurseries, Holloway, where the
species is largely grown and well represented
by both light and deep coloured varieties. This
plant belongs to the labiata section and is a
native of New Grenada, from whence it was im-
ported many years ago. It has become very popu-
lar in our gardens, and enormous quantities are
from time to time sent home. This species varies
considerably in the colour and markings of the
blooms, and during recent years some most beau-
tiful kinds have received varietal names.— W.

Cypripedium purpuratum.— I recently no-
ticed this very distinct and pretty species in flower.
It is a very interesting plant, and is easily dis-
tinguished from all others in cultivation. It
appears to be getting scarcer each year. It is also
stated to have become exceedingly rare in its
natural habitat in Hong Kong, and it is to be
hoped that it will not eventually die out entirely.
It was amongst the first-known kinds to bo in-
troduced to our gardens and has been used by the
hybridist with excellent success. Such beautiful
hybrids as the following claim C. purpuratum as
one of their parents : C. H. Ballantine, C. May-
nardi, C. Cyathea, C. Edith Winn, and several
others.— W. H. G.

Cypripedium insigne varieties. — From
•' W M " comes a box containing flowers of this
old favourite, Nos. 1 and 2 being the beautiful
variety punctatum violaceum, or, as it is often
called by the Continental growers Chantini.
No. 1 is a nice coloured form, and " W. M. says
the plant is carrying over forty of these tine
blooms. No. 2 is a rather paler flower of the
same kind. The other two blooms arrived in
poor condition, the box having been broken in
transit. No. 4 appears to be the variety C. i.
Maulei, and possibly No. 3 may be C. i. Walhsi,
but without flowers in good condition it is im-
possible to name varieties of this species. At the
present time so many have received varietal
names, that it becomes an almost impossible task
to identify one from the other excepting in the
most distinct forms. I should like to see Noe. 3
and 4 again. — W. H. G.

Cvmbidium Lowianum.— This Orchid ap-
pears to be unusually good this season, the spikes
on many plants I have seen being especially fine
and the growths very strong and healthy. W hen
there is room for them the different species be-
longing to this genus are very attractive either in
or out of flowerfand, lasting as they do for many
weeks in perfect condition, are very useful m
keemn" up a show of flower. This does not dis-
tress the plant to any appreciable extent, as in
the ease of Oncidiums, Odontogiossums and
others. Those commencing the culture of this
Orchid should procure strong established plants,
as these are far more likely to do well than newly-
imported species, especially if they have Buffered
much in transit. The compost best suited to its
requirements is three parts of good sound peat to
one of fibrous loam, using this in a rough S tote,
and adding thereto a little chopped Sphagnum

90

THE GARDEN.

[February 9, 1895.

and plenty of charcoal or broken crocks. The
pots may be fairly large, as plants in good condi-
tion grow rapidly, and the drainage must have
special attention. The roots of this Orchid are
stronger and more persistent than those of some
others ; therefore, in repotting they should not be
disturbed more than is absolutely necessary.
Of course, no Orchid roots like disturbance more
than those of any other plant, but with some of
these it is a necessity, as they do not wrap and
hold the compost together in the way of those of
C. Lowianum, and in consequence some parts get
sour and must be removed. The best time for re-
potting is as soon as possible after the flowers are
past, and the plants must be encouraged to grow
strongly by placing them in the warmest part of
the Cattleya house and keeping them moist both
at the roots and in the atmosphere. They must
be shaded from direct sunlight, and when in full
growth occasionally watered with weak liquid
manure, that made from cow manure and soot
being the most efficacious and safest. Frequent
spongings are necessary to eradicate the small
scale that attacks the foliage, and which if left
alone soon spoils the appearance of the plants.
C. Lowianum was introduced from Burmah in
1878 and has several varieties, these differing
from the type chiefly in size and the colouring
upon the lip. — H. R.

Cattleya labiata (white variety). — I am in
receipt of a bloom of another albino of this
lovely and useful Cattleya from W. Eastwood, of
Newchurch, Manchester, who says that it has
"just flowered for the first time from a dozen im-
ported plants recently purchased." This bloom
has the appearance of having been produced from
a weak growth, and will no doubt be much finer
another season. The sepals and petals are pure
white, as is also the lip, which latter is distinctly
veined with delicate rosy carmine. It resembles
the beautiful variety C. 1. R. J. Measures recently
noted in The Garden, although not of such fine
form. This possibly may be owing to the weak
state of the plant. W. Eastwood may congratu-
late himself in having such a fine form occur
out of a dozen plants. If it blooms next season I
shall be pleased to see a good fresh flower. —
W. H. G.

HYBRID CYPRIPEDIUMS.

For several years past there has been a marked
increase in the numbers of hybrids shown by
various raisers from time to time. If anyone
should have entertained the idea of any cessation
in the supply he will find it far otherwise ; at
least this will be the case as far as Messrs. Sander
and Co. are concerned. The hybrid Cypripediums
alone are a most important feature in this estab-
lishment ; there are literally thousands of them
at the present time in various stages of develop-
ment, from the larger ones showing flower down
to the very tiniest speck, scarcely discernible upon
the surface of the soil. In the raising of these
hybrids order and method are strictly followed
out, and every past experience is brought to bear
upon the hybridisation now carried on. When it
is known what results have been obtained by
intercrossing various species, many of which are
far removed from each other, the process of rais-
ing seedlings from these same and other crosses
becomes all the more interesting. The practice at
St. Albans of sowing the seeds in the pots of
other Orchids may be the same as practised by
other raisers, but it is here followed out in a most
systematic manner. These are raised not only in
the pots of other Cypripediums, but also in those
of Lielias and Cattleyas, nearly all of these foster-
parents being themselves hybrids. The healthy
growth of these seedlings is most remarkable ;
they are thiiving like so many annuals of the
easiest possible culture. Of hybrids in flower
early in January there were C. Calypso (Oakwood
var. ), a very distinct and choice hybrid, in which
the colour is intensified. Another hybrid, the
result of crossing C. Curtisi and C. Rothschildi-
anum, bids fair to be a decided acquisition ; two
such parents should result in a fine offspring. C,

grande, another hybrid, was very vigorous. Be
side it was C. nitidissimum, one of the very finest
and choicest hybrids of the Selenipedium group.
C. Leeanum giganteum was in its best form. An-
other variety named virginale was most decidedly
distinct in its pure dorsal sepal. C. nitens (San-
der's var.) has flowers of great substance and with
darker spots than the type. C. Lathamianum
aureum is a richly-marked hybrid suffused with a
golden shade ; C. Masereelianum, at one time ex-
ceedingly choice and still far from plentiful, is also
fine. C. Lynchianum, the result of crossing C.
Spicerianum with C. selligerum majus, is a most
promising hybrid. C. Leeanum James Hamilton
is a very attractive and fine form, distinct from, but
quite equal to C. L. giganteum. Orchis.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Lycaste Skinneri Eeginee. — Tbis, which I
recently noticed flowering in Mr. Williams' nurseries,
Upper Holloway, is a very distinct and striking form,
of large size and good substance, the broad sepals
being white, slightly flushed with rose, the petals
shaded with a rich shade of carmine. — W.

XiEelia anceps Pitchiana.— I recently saw a
very distinct form of L. anceps under this name. The
flower is of very large size ; the side lobes of the lip,
well reflexed and prominent, are mottled with a
purplish-mauve colour, as are the other segments of
the flower. It makes a pretty contrast to the darker
as well as the white varieties. — W. G.

Ccelogyne eristata (Chatsworth variety).— Some
very large specimens of this choice variety are now a
mass of bloom at Harrow Weald House, many of the
pseudo-bulbs measuring 0 inches and more in circum-
ference. This is one of the most useful and easily
grown Orchids we have, but to grow it to perfection
it certainly requires some extra attention. C. eristata
Lemoniana, with the citron-blotched lip, was also in
bloom, and very distinct from other kinds. — W. H. G.

Cypripedium Dauthieri striatum. — Under
this name comes a bloom of this hybrid from " G. M.,"
but it is far from being an improvement on the typical
hybrid. C. Dauthieri is a cross between C. barbatum
and C. villosum, and when represented by a good
form is a very desirable kind. The variety here re-
ferred to is perhaps better known as C. Dauthieri mar-
moratum. The mottling on the whole bloom is very
irregular and not at all pretty. This form is by no
means uncommon, as it has appeared in many
collections.

Flower Garden.

SELECTING THE FINER MICHAELMAS

DAISIES.

To make a selection of the choicer Michaelmas
Daisies much depends on a person's experience
with them, because some of the most meritorious
varieties under some conditions do not display
their best features. Most of the trade lists that
have reached me since autumn, 1804, have not,
so far as I can see, adopted the modern names
as authorised by the Aster Conference a year or
two ago. I think this is a mistake or an over-
sight, for though much may be said in favour of
sticking to old names in many cases, this is not
one of such cases, but extremely exceptional.
The Aster muddle called loudly for the revision,
kindly made and well done by the Aster Con-
ference, and their revised nomenclature —
whether perfect or imperfect — has at least the
claim of being the only one capable of being
intelligibly followed. And further, owing to
the fact that most of the choicest Asters are
garden hybrids, it was not so much a botanic 1
as a florist's set of names that was needed. But
still worse, not only under the "old style"
were, and still are, the names and plants mixed,
but many nurseries have their own style — that

is, there is no sort of harmony in trade lists or
trade material. This makes confusion more
confounded, and it encourages that form of lax-
ness which is, perhaps, the worst of all, for
when a genus of plants is in a state of confusion,
it largely takes away the personal responsibility
of those who distribute the plants.

But to take things as they are, the best must
be made of them, and as it is desired to get the
best kinds in quantity, and as trade lists are the
only sources, generally speaking, I fear that to
some extent more must be secured for trial than
are ultimately intended. The descriptions of
the Aster committee, as furnished in the R.H.S.
" Journal," vol. xv., parts 2 and 3, January,
1893, will be indispensable, and perhaps on the
whole will afford the readiest means of getting
together the best varieties ; they at least point
out many of the best kinds from a florist's point
of view.

My own plan has been for years, with the
object of finding the best Asters within the
limited number of forty to fifty, to watch every
likely trade list, and no matter what the names
are, if they give the least hint of being some-
thing different from well-known varieties or
from those either being grown or such as have
already been tested, to secure a specimen. I
have found many good Asters in this way, but
I fear that it would be discouraging did I men-
tion the scores of rubbishy kinds that had no
value for a garden. In getting plants in this
way the name with which they come is of little
or no moment. If the flowers are not good they
go, if worthy they stay, and the correct or ap-
proximately correct name is then sought for.
Many good varieties have been discarded that
would be well worth growing in a smaller col-
lection than fifty, on the principle that they
would not in a smaller collection have other
varieties almost similar, or rather need not
have in a small collection, and even in a larger
collection than fifty they might be retained,
simply on the score of variety and quality.
But that is where I think the advantage of a
limited number comes in. If, say, you limit
your selection to forty, you can afford to dis-
card good varieties when they happen to be
very near to a preferred variety, and the result
will be quality with wider distinctions. By no
means an important point to watch in selecting
the autumn Asters is the respective periods at
which the kinds are at their best, so as to
secure a long and even succession of bloom, or
even when desirable to have the chief bloom
within a given month. To accomplish this,
whether the desirable period were early or late,
I fear some of the best varieties would be shut
out. As, for instance, did you insist on late
September or October flowers, most of the beau-
tiful vars. of the Amellus group would have
no place, and did you want a September bloom
merely, the Nov;e-Anglise group, all the four or
five of which are superb, would be of no use.

And after all, you learn most and best by ex-
perimenting. Besides, you will learn in your
own garden, what no one can tell you, as to its
capabilities with these plants. The land may
suit certain kinds to perfection, and with such
kinds you will excel. Others may do as in-
differently, so amenable are these plants to
various soils and climate. But in every case it
will be advisable to grow the plants for
at least two years to do them justice, as in
many cases, especially the cordifolius group,
the kinds are more notable for their habit than
their individual heads of flowers. March will
be a suitable time to plant, and 1 would plant
by preference in a stiftish loam, deeply dressed
and manured. J. Wood.

• Woodville, Kirkstall,

February 9, 1895.]

THE GAKDEN

91

THE GREAT ALPINE ROCKFOIL.

(saxifra<;a pyramidalis.)

As shown in the accompanying woodcut, this
plant is one of the most useful and beautiful
that could well be grown, and all who possess a
garden, however small it may be, can have this
floral pyramid in the greatest perfection with-
out the assistance of artificial heat of any kind.
In Dr. Engler's monograph of Saxifrages this
plant is put as a synonym of S. Cotyledon.
Although long considered in gardens as a dis-
tinct variety of that species, 1 am still of the
opinion after having seen_them growing together
for the past ten years that the two are quite
different. I have had wild plants of S. Cotyle-
don from Norway and the Pyrenees, and they
are quite different from this gigantic S. pyra-
midalis. The latter throws up large spikes 2
feet to 3 feet in height, thickly covered with
white, rose spotted flowers, forming a most
charming pyramid, very useful in the decoration
of the greenhouse and the conservatory. It is
biennial so far as that the rosettes producing the
flowers die when the season is over, but pre-
viously from the base of these eld crowns are
produced from si v; to a dozen or more of young
ones ready to take their place the next year.
When the plant is used for indoor decoration
these young crowns are taken off and potted in
good rich compost, grown on in a cool north
house or frame and shifted as required until
finally they reach the pots in which they are
intended to flower. When the plants become
pot-bound, a weak solution of liquid manure
will be found beneficial. On the rockery the
plants require to be planted annually, and new
soil should be given them when this takes
place ; 6 inches apart will be sufficient, and if
healthy and vigorous the plauts will very soon
almost meet each other. They make a pretty
group in the open, and are much appreciated
by those who have only seen the wild species
on the Alps. K.

COLOUR IN FLORISTS' FLOWERS.
Twenty -five years ago or more, when I first
became acquainted with cultivators of florists'
flowers, they had, as many have now, fixed
ideas of colour as well as form in these flowers.
The colours must be " bright, deep and rich."
I well remember a striking instance of this on
an occasion when the southern section of the
National Carnation Society held an exhibition
in Mr. Charles Turner's nursery at Slough late
enough in the season for nearly all the leading
northern growers to be present. Several very
beautiful new seedlings were exhibited, and
amongst them a handsome rose-flaked Carnation
with large well-formed flowers ; it was of a soft
pale rose colour, which harmonised beautifully
with the [jure white. I pointed it out to the late
Mr. Arthur Potts, but one glance was enough.
He '^would not have such a flower in his collec-
tion." It was passed over by all the northern
judges ; they would have rich deep rose colours
and no other. I also produced from seed what
I thought was a very pretty bizarre Carnation ;
it had stripes and flakes of rose and purple on
a white ground, and when I put it in the bizarre
classes I was told by one of light and leading
amongst the northern florists to put it amongst
the fancies, or I would be disqualified. No one
cared for it, so I grew it for my own pleasure,
until the editor of The Garden offered prizes
for the best Carnations in the various classes, and
I sent the despised and rejected Carnation to
be tried again. It won the first prize in the
class, and was named Harmony because of the
beautiful blending of the colours. It has gradu-

ally crept into cultivation, and is exhibited in
the stands of show Carnations, but the strict
florist will have none of it.

And so variety in colour is sacrificed to a
preconceived notion that the colours in Carna-
tions, whatever they are, should be of a dark,
and not of a pale tint. The Auricula is even a
more notable instance of this dogmatism. Like
the Carnation, it has been a favourite garden
flower for at least 300 years, and the point of
excellence, the only standard worth working
for in the eyes of the old-fashioned florist, is
black. He calls it black, and when contrasted
with the pure white centre of the flower it is as
near black as possible ; and when a variety with
a splendid truss and perfectly formed flowers
was produced with a plum or violet colour it

The great Alpine Rockfoil (Saxifrage pyramidalis). Engraved
for The Garden from a photograph sent by Mr. Hodder,
Ponsonby, Torquay.

was cast out, and the rubbish heap became thp
receptacle of what might have been a thing of
beauty, to be admired in the gardens of all
tasteful persons. The same censorious spirit
prevailed amongst the Polyanthuses at one
time ; all were rejected for black or dark
maroon ground colours. Now they have ven-
tured to classify them and distinguish between
dark and red ground colours. Ever since I
cultivated florists' flowers I have withstood this
stifling of Nature in our favourite garden
flowers, and it is some satisfaction to be sup-
ported by persons of undoubted artistic taste.
In regard to the Carnation Harmony, the
eminent flower artist, Mr. Moon, told me it was
the most beautiful of its kind as regards har-
mony of colour ; and in respect of the fancy
Auriculas which the florists throw away, Mr.

Harrison Weir esteems them highly for their
sweetness and beauty.

I have been tempted to write on this subject
because in any standard of excellence set up by
florists a frse play should be given to Nature iu
regard to colour, or a blending of two colours ;
the latter is also of some importance. Wh^n
quite a young beginner I remember admiring
a very beautiful seedling Polyanthus, but the
stern old judge, long gone to his rest, at once
rejected it because the yellow colour of the mar-
gin was not of the same tint as the centre. If
I mention the Tulip, it will be with some
diffidence. I admire it in all its beautiful tints
of flame and feather, nor can we ever cease to
remember all that the florists have done, not
only in producing, but in preserving to us for so
many years this and all the other
beautiful garden flowers. We know
and appreciate what they have
done ; we can only guess at what
they might have done had not their
minds been narrowed down to a
certain groove as regards colour,
to say nothing of form which might
very well occupy an entire paper
to itself. I mention the Tulip in
this connection because the dis-
qualifying points seem even more
inexplicable than they do in that
i >{ the Auricula or the Carnation. A
flower may be very beautiful in its
form of petal, the purity of its cup,
and the delicate tracery of flame or
feather, but the anthers may be
stained, and it is put aside at the
exhibition. The anthers may be
right in the next flower examined ;
it may have a rich dark-pencilled
feather, but the beam, as itis termed,
is i if a light colour, or it may have
a rich red and dark crimson on a
deep yellow ground, and because of
these two colours it is again rejected.
" It is a tricolor, it is of no use,"
exclaims the florist. On this point
of colour I know I am at variance
with some of our best florists. If
thi' exact colour flowers ought to be
is to lie defined with the exact form,
&c, it seems to be very much like
judging them by square and rule.

The preference of one colour be-
fore another, or insisting on one
colour oDly where there might be
two equally effective, seems to some
a dogmatic attempt to define beauty
as something to be measured or
meted out to cultivators of flowers.
Our ideas of what is beauty in the
flower garden have been changed in
modern times. We may now go
more into detail, and ask ourselves,
what is beauty in a florist's flower ! Surely not
a long array all of one colour and all of one form.
Variety is charming, and it is well that we have
as much variety as possible in our gardens in
colour as well as in form. A florist would throw
away any Carnation in which the edges of the
petals were fringed, and when the flower is
a bizarre, a flake or Picotee, I believe the florists
are right, but when we have the fringed edge in
a border Carnation and the variety is self-
coloured, I would say save it, grow it, and ad-
mire it. J. Douglas.

Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum). — The
most successful way of treating this plant under
cultivation is by regarding it more in the light of
a biennial, though, perhaps strictly, it may claim
to be a true perennial. Be this as it may, I have

92

THE GARDEN.

|Fkbkuart 9, 1895.

never been so successful when growing it from
division as when the plants are raised from seeds.
Thus treated and by sowing a few seeds each year
so as to make sure of some flowering tufts annu-
ally, it possesses greater vigour and produces its
singular woolly heads more freely. It is surpris-
ing how varied is its growth in different soils and
localities, and in no garden or locality have I seen
it at any time so luxuriant as at Pusey House,
in Berkshire. In these gardens it was a perfect
picture. Seeds ripened freely, and by making
sowings early in the year strong plants were ready
for planting out during the summer. When planted
out they always made rapid progress. At the
time of flowering the plants were fully 1 foot high
and were much admired. — E. J.

SOLDANELLAS.

These constitute a small group of extremely
pretty and interesting alpines that are rarely
seen in good condition in our gardens ; indeed,
their culture, so far as concerns maintaining
them permanently in health and vigour, seems
only indifferently understood. For a season or
two the imported plants grow and flourish in
the most encouraging manner, and ultimately
attaining, as it were, their greatest perfection,
send forth their tiny flower-spikes and pleasing
flowers from almost every crown. But after
this the plants appear to lose much of their
vigour, and though a similar course of treat-
ment is kept up, only a scanty growth and
flowering are the result. In various ways," by
pot culture and planting out in moist, shady
spots in sandy peat and leaf soil, I have en-
deavoured to get a return of their former
vigour, but without success. The general ap-
pearance of the plants is that of exhausted
energy, which is not resuscitated, as is the case
with many plants, by division and fresh soil.
Whether the plants may in a measure be re-
vived by dividing them into very small scraps
and pricking them out after the manner of
seedlings I do not know, as I have not tried
such small divisions. Perhaps the better way
of attaining success would be by obtaining fresh
seed as far as possible, at the same time using
every means of seeding the plants we have.
In this way it may be possible to get greater
vigour into the plants than when increased by
division ; at any rate it is worth a trial. Seeds
of these plants, or at least some of them,
would, I doubt not, be obtainable either from
specialists at home or abroad, and if these
were successful, a year or two would be suffi-
cient to grow them into good plants. Some
well-filled pans of these dainty spring alpines
would come as a pleasant surprise to many
lovers of alpine plants, and others who may not
have seen them previously could not fail to be
interested also. When gathered together in a
sheltered nook in loam, peat, and leaf soil in
about equal parts, the few species of which this
genus is comj^osed are very interesting. It is
better, perhaps, to grow them thus, because
they are then more readily accommodated with
one essential in their culture, namely, moisture.
In view of this I have wondered if any grower
of alpines in the British Isles has attempted
their culture in Sphagnum Moss, and with
what result. When we hear of the success
attending this method of culture in other parts
of the world, and with some of the most un-
manageable of rare alpines, the question of soils
dwindles into insignificance. And it is quite
possible that the moisture-loving nature of these
Soldanellas may yield to this kind of treatment
and produce better results than when grown in
soil in the usual way. At any rate, with such
a charming little group it is at least worth a
trial when other methods only partially succeed.

S. alpina is the best known, perhaps, having
been introduced upwards of two centuries ago.
In height this species rarely attains to more than
4 inches or 5 inches, forming close upon the
ground tufts of shining and somewhat kidney-
shaped, leathery leaves. From these in March or
April appear the tiny flower-stems, bearing pretty
bell-shaped blossoms of a pale blue shade. The
flowers, of which there are several on a stem, are
deeply cut into narrow segments, having the
appearance of a heavy fringe. Not far removed
from this is

S. Montana, except that it is larger in all its
parts, and consequently more vigorous. The
flowers are also of a deeper shade of purple-blue
and the corolla more deeply cut. I have been
more successful with this kind than any, and,
owing to its more vigorous nature, perhaps, the
plants have attained fully 6 inches or 7 inches high,
and borne from four to five flowers in a scape.

S. pusilla has blue flowers, the margins of
which are not so heavily fringed and the scape
usually only one-flowered.

S. minima is a very tiny plant, as the name

implies, rarely growing more than 3 inches high.

This has flowers suffused with lilac, usually but

one in a scape and prettily fringed at the margin.

E. J.

THE BOCK GARDEN.

Winter Effects.

January is, no doubt, the dullest and dreariest
month for the rock garden, and plants which
bloom at this time of the year are welcome.
During the second week of this month we had
here in the western counties (Devonshire and
Cornwall) frost varying from 10° to 16°, followed
by deep snow. But at the time of writing (third
week in January) the signs of winter have already
passed away, and on looking over various rock
gardens, one cannot help being struck with such
plants as present a pleasing appearance or are
even in bloom at this season. In a well-arranged
rock garden, plants of this class should be dis-
tributed with the greatest care, and should form
a special feature in those portions which contain
deciduous or late-flowering plants, and would,
therefore, without such help look dull and un-
interesting for several months to come. Christ-
mas Roses have already been in bloom for some
time, and form a most suitable material for in-
termixing and forming irregular groups among
the larger kinds of late-flowering plants, espe-
cially in the rougher parts of the rock garden
reserved for plants of the more robust class.
This system of planting has great advantages,
for later in the season when the Hellebores are
past their foliage would set off the flowers of
other plants succeeding them.

Among the earliest plants of the robust
class I may mention Iberis semperflorens
and Geum aureum, which here at Exeter
are already in bloom in an exposed position
out-of-doors. Geum aureum, by the way, is
not so well known as it deserves to be. Its
large handsome flowers are of a deep rich
golden yellow, while the evergreen leaves are
large and glossy, constituting quite an ornament
in themselves when the plant is not in bloom.
The flowering of this plant at this early season
is no doubt premature, but it is none the less
valuable on that account. There is no difficulty
whatever in growing this Geum, as it seems at
home in any soil or situation. Cyclamens are
also now in bloom, and are ornamental both in
their flowers and foliage. For plants now in
bloom in a half-shady position fewcan surpass the
blue Hepatica angulosa and the charming Ane-
mone blanda. The deep azure-blue flowers of
this Anemone rival those of the Gentian in
brilliancy, and therefore make it most desir-
able, especially as its cultivation is so simple.

One of the neatest reck plants for winter flower-
ing is Iberis stylosa. Here it has been in bloom
for some time, and is now (third week in Jan-
uary) thickly laden with its pretty mauve blos-
soms borne well above the dark green glossy
foliage. This plant is of exceptionally neat and
compact habit, and is fit for the choicest rock
garden. It does not spread rapidly like its con-
geners of the Iberis semperflorens type. The
plant in question is growing here at Exeter in
rather stiff loam, mixed with stones, on a sunny
slope, which seems to suit it. On the same
slope a square yard or two is covered by the
pretty little Ionopsidium acaule, with its neat
lilac-coloured blossoms fully expanded. This
plant grows freely from seed sprinkled on the
open ground, and forms a quickly spreading,
but very neat carpet. It was sown on the slop-
ing ground last spring and has flowered con-
tinuously throughout last summer and autumn,
the flowers being scarcely more than 2 inches
above the ground. The parent plants are now
dead, but from their self-sown seeds has sprung
a colony of plants which are now in full bloom,
although less than a fortnight ago we had 10°
of frost followed by snow.

Returning to perennial rock plants, I may
mention the well-known Gentiana acaulis as a
most valuable plant for winter effect in the rock
garden. Not only is the foliage crowded
together so densely as to form a bright green
carpet, but it often happens that its large deep
blue flowers appear as early as January. It is
so this year, and I have already seen several
blooms fully expanded, though the proper time
for flowering is not till March or April. Gen-
tiana verna (generally the first of the Gentians
to bloom) is not quite so far advanced this
season, and it will probably be some weeks
before its buds are open. Its foliage, too, is
not so conspicuous as that of the larger Gentiana
acaulis ; and although Gentiana verna is one of
the choicest gems for our rock gardens, the other
variety (G. acaulis) is certainly the most effec-
tive during winter. Other choice rock plants
just now coining into bloom are Saxifraga Bur-
seriana, S. sancta and S. luteo-viridis, all of
which do best in a sunny position on sloping
ground. S. luteo-viridis (often erroneously
called S. Frederici Augusti or S. purpureo-
lutea) is here the most advanced of these va-
rieties, and at the time of writing the pale
yellow blooms are already expanded, and stand
out most effectively from a dense cushion of
bright green foliage. S. sancta and S. Bur-
seriana are just unfolding their blossoms, and
in another day or two the rocky ledge from
which they spring will be a picture pleasant to
behold. I have so far confined my remarks to
plants now in bloom, giving examples only of
such as have come under my own observation.
There are probably many other kinds elsewhere
already in full bloom, but I think even the few
I have mentioned will suffice to show that our
rock gardens need be by no means so bare of
flowers in the winter months as they generally
are.

It is, however, not with flowers only that we
may embellish our rocks during the dull season,
but we may also choose from a very large num-
ber of plants whose foliage looks fresher and
brighter in January than during the summer
months when flowers are plentiful everywhere.
The foliage of many evergreen plants changes
colour during winter, and striking effects may
be produced by tasteful combinations. How
very effective, for instance, is Galax aphylla
growing from a carpet of Arenaria balearica.
The latter clings close to ground or stones,
clothing them with the brightest green, while
Galax aphylla grows about 0 inches high and its

February 9, 1895 J

THE GARDEN

9)

leaves are of the brightest scarlet just now,
forming a most delightful contrast to the vivid
verdure from which they spring. Very valu-
able, too, at this season are the many evergreen
plants bearing brightly coloured berries, such
as Gaultheria procumbens, Vaccinium Vitis Idsea
minus, and other dwarf rock plants. But even
without such contrasts of colour many of our
best rock plants are in themselves highly orna-
mental. Very few plants can be more effec-
tive than that lovely queen of Saxifrages, S.
longifolia. Who has not observed that the silvery
rosettes of this beautiful Pyrenean Rockfoil are
much whiter in winter than in summer 1 This
is on account of the silvery encrustations of the
leaves having attained their full maturity. A
group of this Saxifrage planted almost hori-
zontally into the upright or slanting fissures of
a dull reddish-coloured rock looks as though it
were coated with a permanent covering of hoar-
frost, and forms a most pleasing picture.

A mong other rock plants with silvery foliage I
will oDly mention Antennaria tomentosa, which,
though not as white as in summer, is neverthe-
less of a pleasing silvery grey, and the same might
be said of Alyssum serpyllifolium and Alyssum
spinosum, which, though not in bloom, are a
great ornament to the rock garden on account
of their compact silvery foliage. Of the many
varieties of Sedum none are prettier and more
effective at this time of the year than the kinds
with either bright green or red foliage. Per-
haps the brightest green of all is that of Sedum
crassifolium, whose fleshy and glossy leaves
impart an unusual brilliancy to that plant. This
variety does not appear to be very generally
known, but it cannot be too highly recommended.
It grows about 4 inches high and bears yellow
flowers in summer. It should be planted in
masses, perhaps between taller plants that
would flower at a different season. All through
the winter the bright green of its glossy foliage
is very striking. Of red-leaved Sedums (i.e.,
red at this time of the year) I will mention
Sedum rupestre and S. pruniatum, both of
which form an excellent carpet of bronzy red.

In conclusion, I would call attention to the
vivid green of such plants as Hutchinsia alpina,
Draba gigas and many of the mossy section of
Saxifrages, which might with advantage be em-
ployed for the double purpose of making the
rock garden look more cheerful during winter
by their verdure and at the same time form a
most useful means of carpeting the ground be-
tween taller plants that would flower at a later
season. F. W. Meyer.

Exeter.

(To be continued. )

Aster cabulicus.— lam most grateful to those
corresponden ts who have given in formation respect-
ing this species. Be A. cassubius a well-authenti-
cated name or otherwise, it will be seen the plant
meant is but a variety of Amellus ; whereas cabu-
licus is a species so distinct as to belong more
correctly to another genus, and is called Micro-
glossa albescens. — J. W.

Megasea Stracheyi.— This, as a hardy plant,
and as is often the case with fame, does not prove
of much use with me. True, the flowers are a
delicately tinted white, and of good size and bold
spike in strong plants, but there are always draw-
backs with such delicate flowers produced near
the surface out-of-doors, and one can seldom see
the flowers perfect. Nothing can be more unpre-
sentable than white flowers in a soiled state. The
coloured Megaseas do nob spoil, and they have
taller scapes and brighterfoliage. This is worthy
of note — about the foliage — because the Megaseas
have much of their value in the almost evergreen
quality as open-air plants. — J. Wood, Woodville,
Kirkwall.

Orchard and Fruit GardeNc

GRAPE MRS. PEARSON.

from Vines planted in almost all sorts of soils.
I have had charge of it grown in black, light,
and heavy composts, in all of which it succeeded
admirably, while some other varieties were
pretty much a failure in the same vinery.
I his magnificent Grape does not appear to be ! To get extra fine bunches of model shape I
planted so extensively as its merits would seem find it best to prune to the second or third bud
to warrant, yet all who have grown it speak in on the lateral, whichever may be the most pro-
the highest terms of its general excellence. In minent. Such buds never fail to make a large
my opinion it is only second to Muscat of bunch, but there is a risk that too many of these
Alexandria amongst white Grapes, and on some big bunches may be left on. Provided the Vine
soils and situations it is really superior to that is in vigorous health, it is marvellous how the
famous variety. Many Grape growers find bunches will increase in length and breadth
Muscat of Alexandria shrivel at the ripening considerably exceeding the estimated size and
period or immediately afterwards in spite of all the grower is loth to remove some of these fine
their efforts to prevent this, but Mrs. Pearson bunches when it is observed that the crop is too
planted in the same house and by the side of heavy. Under those conditions it is a good plan
the variety named not only produces a heavier to remove a bunch or two, thereby relieving the
crop, but is free from shrivelling in the berries, Vine of the strain somewhat, and also ensuring

large berries with a high finish.
Another item is to endeavour to
get each berry with its full num-
ber of stones ; if four can be
secured in every berry, they will
attain a larger size than if only
two stones were in them. To
secure this result a perfect set is
indispensable, requiring extra
care at the flowering period.
Naturally Mrs. Pearson is a free
setter, but it may be assisted in
a great degree by maintaining a
warm buoyant atmosphere, with
a night temperature of not less
than 05°, rising 10° in the day.
In the middle of the day a sharp
rap with the hand will distribute
the pollen, causing it to fly in
all directions, and this rapping
of the rods should be continued
daily until all and every part of
the bunches are set.

Another great aid to a free
set and also the forming of the
stones is an application of 2 oz. of
superphosphate to every square
surface yard of the border given
at the time of starting the Vines,
a similar dose being given im-
mediately after the fruit is set.
White Grapes appear to be more
benefited by this dressing thau
black do, and Mrs. Pearson es-
pecially seems to enjoy it. From
careful observation 1 feel sure
that lime ought to be more em-
ployed in many gardens for
Vines, and the lack of that essen-
tial element is a frequent cause
of bad setting and indifferent
health. There are various modes
in which lime can be applied
with advantage. Superphosphate seems to
have the best effect on light and medium
soils, while those of a heavier character are most
benefited by bone meal and basic slag. The
latter should be applied early in the season at
the rate of 2 oz. or 3 oz. to the yard, and as it is
slow in action no immediate benefit will be
apparent. These manures will supply the lime
necessary for the Vines and their crops with-
out setting free the other constituents in the
soil, and may be given with benefit in addi-
tion to natural manure in a liquid or solid
form. W. G. C.

Qrape Mrs. Pearson.

and will keep perfectly sound and plump until
May, which is usually as long as Grapes are
required to keep. Under good management
and provided the Vine is not overcropped, the
flavour of Mrs. Pearson is infinitely superior to
that of many Muscats, and when exhibited in
perfect condition Muscats must be good to beat
it in an open class for white Grapes. On
several occasions in judging white Grapes I
have voted in favour of this variety taking
premier place, feeling well satisfied that it de-
served that position. My contention always is
that a badly-ripened, green or rusty stand of
Muscats bears no proper comparison with well-
finished Mrs. Pearson or other perfect white
Grapes. One very important advantage Mrs.
Pearson possesses, viz., not being at all parti-
cular as to soil, splendid bunches and fine,
beautifully coloured berries being obtained

Plum Oullin's Golden Gage. I do not

know of any better all-round variety than this, as
it does well in moet localities. This is an early
Plum, well worth room in all gardens, and is little
inferior to the best of the Gages. I have it onty

94

THE GARDEN

I February 9, 1895

in bush and cordon form, but last season in Kent
I saw some very fine standard trees loaded with
fruit. Its season is about the middle of August.
It does grandly on a west aspect a9 a wall tree.
With me, on a light poor Plum soil this variety
succeeds where others fail, and the trees crop
freely. I saw line crops in Scotland a few years
ago, thus proving its hardv free-growing charac-
ter.- -W. S.

Grapes for a private garden.— However
interesting it may be to grow a collection of varie-
ties of Grapes, it is pretty well known that the
greater part can be very well dispensed with when
it comes to the question of making a selection
suitable for supplying a gentleman's table with
high quality fruit. For this purpose Mr. Douglas
(p. 1) limits his selection to seven varieties, and
substitutes Black Alicante for Royal Vineyard.
These, as it happens, are actually the varieties I
grow here. Black Alicante is a fine showy Grape
and succeeds admirably with me, but after the
Mrs. Pince are finished I generally have a
reminder that the quality is going off when the
Alicantes are being sent in. If Appley Towers
black Grape as I saw it with Mr. Hudson at Gun-
nersbury House last autumn keeps up its good
character, it will either form a good substitute for
Black Alicante or a good companion. Previous to
limiting the number of varieties to those above
stated I used to grow Gros Maroc, Alnwick Seed-
ling and Gros (Jolman, but as the quality was not
cared for I had to cut them out. It is quite evi-
dent that as a rule there is too much of a mixed
medley of varieties grown. When well grown
Gros Colman suits some people, but as a rule it is
seen anything but well coloured. A friend of
mine who is very partial to experimenting with
Grapes, especially in trying varieties on different
stocks, showed me last November some splendid
bunches of Gros Colman, the result of grafting on
Madresfield Court. This latter is such a fine
quality Grape that very few people would think
or care of putting an inferior variety on to it. The
berries were the largest for the variety I have ever
seen and beautifully coloured. In the same house
there are several Vines of the same variety on its
own roots, but the fruit was not to be compared
with that of the grafted Vine. Muscat Ham-
burgh, again, we know is a splendid Grape, but it
requires careful culture. — A. Young.

SMALL PEARS OF RICH FLAVOUR.

The rage for size is causing many of our smaP
varieties to be greatly neglected by planters,
but, although small, many of these Pears are of
most delicious flavour, and the majority of the
sorts are regular bearers, and far more certaiu
croppers than the larger and more imposing
sorts. In some gardens the smaller Pears are
most appreciated on the dessert table, being of
a more useful size than the big ones, and fre-
quently of a superior flavour. The following
varieties in their order of ripening are all small
or comparatively so, and will afford a succession
of well-flavoured fruit from July to well on into
the spring months : —

Doyenne d'Ete is well known for its earliness
and pleasant flavour if eaten as soon as gathered
from the tree, which crops profusely in all forms.
Cordons especially bear heavy crops, and it must
be a bad season indeed if this variety fails.

Mlle. Soulange runs the preceding variety
closely in earliness and good qualities, both ripen-
ing with me in July. Since planting this sort five
years ago it has borne freely every year.

Citron des Carmes is another small early
variety, the most highly-flavoured fruit being ob-
tained from bush or standard trees. From such
trees ripe fruit is produced from the beginning to
middle of August. On walls the Pears are not so
juicy, and according to my experience the trees in
such positions are very prone to Pear scale.

Dr. Hogg is a small, handsome Pear that should
be better known. The fruits are beautifully

marked with red on the sunny side, and produced
very freely both on the Quince and Pear stocks,
and also on all forms of trees. In addition to
those good qualities, the fruit is of a most pleas-
ing flavour, and liked by all Pear lovers ; in use
during September, early or later in that month,
according to situation of the trees.

Eyewood is a small October Pear, of excellent
quality on our light soil, succeeding admirably in
bush form, and is a continuous cropper, rarely
failing to be more or less productive.

Aston Town is an old favourite ; the fruit,
though small, is of delicious flavour. I think no
variety bears such enormous crops on standard
trees as this on almost all sorts of soil and in cold
or warm localities. I have a strong recollection of hav-
ing toassist to pick many bushels from great trees
when under a well-known northern gardener, and
also remember his advice, viz., " If ever you have
to plant standard orchards, put Aston Town on
the most exposed side to break the gales." The
behaviour of the variety at that place proved the
thorough soundness of the advice, as the trees had
attained a large size and were very prolific.

Comte DE Lamy comes into use about the same
time as the last-named (October and November),
and on good soil is one of the best Pears grown.
By thinning out the fruit it may be had of fair
size, but, as a rule, the trees are too prolific to
produce big fruit.

Winter Nelis is a well-known and favourite
Pear, especially noted for its rich flavour, good
keeping and productiveness. Seasons influence
its period for use, but, as a rule, it may be relied
upon from to the end of November to end of
January. For use after Christmas I believe

Josephine de Malines has no equal ; the
quality of the fruit is Al, and is in use from
January to March inclusive. In every part of
the country that I have known this excellent
variety it has cropped well on walls, and in warm
and suitable districts bush trees are heavy bearers.
To have the fruit as long as possible it should be
allowed to remain on the trees to the latest pos-
sible date, only gathering it on signs of sharp
frosts ; in fact, I have had the fruit out in several
degrees of frost without its suffering any ap-
parent damage in either flavour or keeping after-
wards.

Marie Guisse is a most delicious Pear, in use
during February and March, but, unfortunately,
it is not a success with me except on cordon
trees. Bush trees in the open having been a
complete failure for a number of years, they have
been rooted out. In some other places I have
seen this bear splendid crops, and where it is a
success it should have a place in even small col-
lections, being so valuable for its lateness and
high quality.

Van de Weyer Bates is a variety that I made
a note of last year as being a grand late Pear ;
fruit that I tasted in April was very rich and
juicy, and the grower stated that the trees
cropped profusely on the Quince in all forms.
Not having grown this sort I cannot speak of its
hardiness or otherwise, but I have no doubt it
would answer in cold districts against a wall.
W. G. C.

Gros Maroc and Black Hamburgh Grapes.

— A reader of The Garden writes me that Black
Hamburgh Grapes realise such a low price that he
has decided to graft his Vines with Gros Maroc,
and asks if it will not prove more remunerative.
Many Grape growers have been disappointed at
the low price of such fruit of late years, but in
spite of low prices good bunches of Black Ham-
burghs, well finished, will sell at paying figures.
I think most fruit growers will admit that this
famous and highly popular Grape is not so well
grown generally as it used to be, and purchasers
will sooner pay more for highly-coloured Gros
Maroc than for Red Hamburghs. The latter va-
riety has advantages over its rival in becoming
profitable earlier, and under good management
producing a heavier crop. Gros Maroc is some-
what slow in getting established, afterwards
acquiring almost too gross a habit ; and although

started at the same time as Hamburghs in an
early vinery it is at least a fortnight later in ripen-
ing. There is also the question to be considered
of how long the purchasing public wil prefer
showy Grapes at the expense of quality. Accord-
ing to my experience in selling to frui erers the
tide is turning, and Grapes of rich flavour are
more valuable than they were two or three years
ago. It is possible, therefore, that t ose growers
who discard such a good all-round Grape as Black
Hamburgh for an indifferently flavoured variety
like Gros Maroc may find they have made a mistake.
If the former were better grown, by giving it more
air and not so highly fed, also giving careful
attention to other cultural matters, it would still
hold its own amongst Grapes for all purposes.
Some years ago I manured Black Hamburgh Vines
as liberally as Alicantes and other varieties, but
although the bunches and berries were large, the
colour was not what it ought to be. Later experi-
ments proved conclusively that less feeding was
better, as shown by the deeper colour and beauti-
fully hammered berries. — W. G. C.

Peach Dymond. — This Peach is fully deserv-
ing of all the praise that the several correspon-
dents of The Garden recently have bestowed
upon it, and although as yet I have not tried it
for forcing, I shall do so at the earliest oppor-
tunity. I have several trees in late houses, and
it certainly has been looked upon in its season as
one of the very best. It develops a splendid
colour, and being a very firm fruit travels well,
and its quality is first-rate. It has one failing
with me in its susceptibility to the actack of
aphides during the summer season. Each year
as soon as the leaves commence active growth
after the flowering period is past the fly appears
on this Peach when other trees would be quite
free, and syringing with an insecticide must be
resorted to early to prevent its spread to other
adjoining trees. Whether this is common to the
variety in other gardens I know not, but I do not
find any reference to this failing by other growers
who have recently brought it into prominence.
It would be interesting to know whether it is a
general or only a local failing. Each of the four
trees I grow has the same tendency, and this
makes me think there is some inherent weakness
in the variety, or the soil is deficient in some ele-
ment necessary for its healthy growth. I get
good crops yearly of the character described not-
withstanding the attack, which is, however, in
evidence only in its early stages of leaf growth.
It is a splendid variety for open walls. — W. S.,
Rood Athlon.

MEALY BUG ON VINES.

In a recent issue of The Garden I notice " W. I."
advocating scraping Vine rods infested with mealy
bug. This, according to my experience, is super-
fluous, and generally admitted to be injurious.
When I took charge of my present situation on
November 1, 1888, I found an old lean-to vinery
so badly infested and in such a dilapidated state
that I almost despaired of cleansing it. I first
had the rafters, trellis, glass, and walls washed
with a strong solution of soft soap and petroleum,
and seeing the Vines had been rather severely
scraped on previous occasions, I had them well
rubbed with the hand, but no scraping was
done, except about the spurs. They were
then well scrubbed with soft soap and warm
water, and afterwards dressed with a mixture
of soft soap, sulphur, soot, and clay, with a wine-
glassful of petroleum to a pint of water. The
whole was allowed to simmer on a slow fire for
twenty minutes, and applied in the usual way.
The border (an inside one) was next cleared of all
loose soil and top-dressed. Of course, nothing
more could be done till starting the Vines. When
the question of syringing arose, I decided to try
how the Vines would break without it, as I could
not see the sense of applying such strong insecti-
cides and washing them off in a few weeks. When
the buds showed signs of breaking a little heat
was turned on, the evaporating pans filled, and a
fair amount of moisture maintained without

February 9, 1«V5.|

THE GARDEN

95

syringing. I was pleased to see the Vines
break remarkably well. Notwithstanding all the
cleansing, in due course a few insects made their
appearance. These were immediately destroyed
by touching them with a small brush dipped in
petroleum. The second year the same process
was strictly observed with improved results, as
only a very few insects appeared, which were de-
stroyed as before. The third year the same pro-
cess was maintained, when only two insects were
discovered all the season. Since then, I am pleased
to say, there has not been a bug in the house, and
every year I see an improvement in both Vines
and fruit (except two rods) viz., Lady Downe's
and Gros Colman, which still show the effects of
hard scraping and will never give satisfaction.
I have no hesitation in attributing my success as
much (or more) to the non-syringing system and
strict watchfulness during the summer as to all
the cleansing and dressing put together, and that
without scraping the rods. R. R.

Belfast.

CURIOUS GROWTH ON VINE.

I enclose a sketch of part of the stem of a Bowood
Muscat Vine. As you will observe, there are a
number of swellings between the spurs such as I
have never noticed on Vine stems before. The
Vine had all its natural bark on when sketched,
and measured 3J inches in circumference over the
largest of the swellings in the sketch and only 2$
inches between the swellings. The Vines were
planted in September, 1892, and carried a few
good bunches last season. The vinery adjoining
the Muscat house is planted in the same kind of
compost, but there is very little swelling notice-
able on the Vines. I should be glad of any infor-
mation on the subject. — C. R.

*»* It is doubtful if a correct solution can be
arrived at without first having a section of the
affected rods to examine. Judging from the sketch
furnished, the inner bark has been injured in some
way and behaves in much the same manner as I
should expect to find in the case of a stem of an
otherwise healthy tree that has been attacked by
either canker or American blight. When the
bark is thus damaged or ruptured it frequently
calluses and heals over, a swelling or circular
ridge gradually closing over the exposed wood,
and if the irritating cause of the wound is re-
moved, the bark eventually unites all round,
though there may be some dead wood underneath.
The ridge or swelling would remain. All this
might have been going on under the outer or dead
bark of the Vines without " C. R. ' observing
it, but if this is really the solution, he can
easily verify it by cutting through one of
the swellings. The question naturally arises, how
is it possible for the live inner bark to be damaged
in any way all the while it is protected by a thick
covering of dead bark ? It is not often that any
injury is sustained by well- protected inner bark,
but if petroleum has been used for either cleaning
the roof or for syringing or dressing the Vines,
this is apt to collect together, and is of such a
penetrating nature as to be quite capable of in-
juring the bark of Vines on which it drips. An
over-strong dose of other insecticides powerful
enough when properly diluted to destroy insect
life, is also fully equal to damaging the Vine rods,
especially seeing how comparatively soft and
porous these are. I am quite of opinion the swell-
ings arise from some external cause, and not
owing to anything being wrong at the roots.
Naturally these swellings must greatly interfere
with the steady flow and return of the sap, and
will do so to a considerable extent as long as the
rods are retained. This difficulty can most prob-
ably be obviated by a change of rods, and which
can be done gradually or without the loss of a
part of a crop even. Lay in young canes from
near the lower part of the old rods, and stop these
when about half-way up the house. Next year all
or many of the spurs may be cut away from the
lower half of the old rods, and the new rod be
allowed to occupy the space and crop freely, also,
in addition, extending to the top of the house. If

the Vines are in a healthy condition below as
well as above ground, the young rods at the end
of the second season's growth will be strong
enough to fill the house, and the old rods should,
therefore, be sawn off close to where the young
ones started while yet the foliage on all is in a
green state. If cut away directly the bunches
are cleared off there will be no bleeding, but if
deferred till the winter, it will be found a very
difficult matter to prevent a wholesale loss of sap.
If the swellings occur on the young rods, then it
may be found necessary to make a wholly fresh
start.— W. I.

Two good stewing Pears— Those who re-
quire Pears for cooking will find Verulam and
(iilogil two of the very best, the latter for early
winter supplies and Verulam for spring use.
Gilogil is one of the best flavoured of all the stew-
ing Pears. It is a large round fruit, in season from
October to December, and the tree does well on
the Pear stock. Verulam is better known, and
is little inferior in quality to the one described
above. It is valuable on account of its keeping
properties, and when cooked it is of excellent fla-
vour and of a deep rich colour. Being a very large
fruit it should not be grown on standard trees in
an exposed position. — G. Wytiies.

Apple Northern Greening. — Cooking
Apples are none too plentiful late in the spring,
and the above is one of the best for keeping. I
have seen many varieties recommended for keep-
ing, but, so far, I have found few equal this, the
(Hiality also being good. It is not at all fastidious
as to soils, doing well in standard form ; indeed, it
is a valuable market fruit if not gathered too
early and given cool storage. I never attempt to
keep this variety in the fruit room, it being stored
in any out-building free of damp or rain-proof.
I have kept heaps of this fruit in this way, as the
skin being hard, itdoes not bruise badly. Old trees
bear freely and do not like much pruning. I
merely thin out the weak growth or cross branches
about once in three years. In storing the fruit it
is well to grade it, as the smaller fruits are not so
valuable for keeping. — G. W. S.

Ferns.

VARIEGATED FERNS FOR THE CON-
SERVATORY AND COLD FERNERY.

Wherever Ferns are grown for their intrinsic
value and not merely for house or indoor deco-
ration, we usually find them planted out or at
least arranged in a m ore or less effective man-
ner, and, according to the taste of their owners,
either kept by themselves or intermixed witli
fine - foliaged plants. Duringthe summer
months, besides the variegated Ferns requiring
a warm temperature, which may then safely be
grown with the cooler ones, coloured Dracaenas,
Begonias of the " Rex " section, Crotons, Pan-
danus, and numerous other fine-foliaged plants
may with advantage be used for that purpose,
but, although they may exist, these plants can-
not at this time of the year nourish in a tem-
perature varying between 40° and 50°, which is
that allowed the majority of Ferns in cultiva-
tion, and with excellent results, as testified by
the well-known ferneries at Nash Court, Faver-
sham ; Woolton Wood, Liverpool ; Messrs.
Veitch's at Chelsea, and many others, which re-
tain their fresh appearance all through the
winter months, although kept at a low tempera-
ture. But the monotony above stated may,
and indeed is easily relieved by a judicious
selection of Ferns distinct from all others by
their variegated character, and forming a most
pleasing contrast with the numerous sorts with
foliage of various tints of green.

Variegation is a characteristic almost exclu-
sively peculiar to Ferns of exotic origin. Al-
though in a list of British Ferns grown by Mr.
P. Neill Fraser, of Edinburgh, and published
by him in 1865, we find variegated forms of
Asplenium Adiantum - nigrum and fontanum,
as well as variegated forms of Athyrium, Blech-
num, Lastrea Filix-mas, Polypodium vulgare,
Polystichum angulare, Pteris aquilina, and
Scolopendrium vulgare, it is very doubtful
whether in these cases the variegation was any-
thing particularly striking, or whether it was
sufficiently constant and showy to increase the
decorative value of the plants affected by it
when under cultivation. As these plants are
now very scarce, if existing at all in any of our
collections, we are justified in coming to the con-
clusion that, had their variegation proved per-
manent and ornamental, these plants, which
owing to their hardiness could be grown with-
out trouble, and especially without the expense
of glass structures and heating apparatus, would
not have been allowed to drop into oblivion,
and we conclude that either their variegation
was insufficiently distinct to add to their
beauty, or that they did not reproduce them-
selves freely either from spores or from divi-
sion. Fortunately, such is not the case with
Ferns of exotic origin, all or nearly all of
which reproduce themselves as truly and as
abundantly as the typical forms with green
foliage.

Variegated Ferns either for stove or green-
house may be divided into three series : (1)
Those with bright variegation which were intro-
duced into European gardens from abroad, and
of which Pteris cretica albo-lineata may be
given as a type ; (2) those produced in culti-
vation, of which Pteris Mayi is one of the most
distinct ; (3) those Ferns in which the varie-
gation consists in the contrast of light green-
coloured lines or patches on a naturally more or
less dark background. The most distinct, as
also the most useful, of this series is the deser-
vedly popular Lastrea aristata variegata. If,
for the purpose of simplifying their culture, we
classify together all these plants, for which a
temperature of 40° to 50° is sufficient in winter,
we will find that although the list does not in-
clude those species with the most brilliant
colours, it, however, contains the most popular
and most useful variegated kinds. It is well
known that in really well-variegated Ferns the
character referred to is, with scarcely any ex-
ception, faithfully reproduced, and it is impor-
tant to note that amongst exotic kinds the
variegation, when fixed, is constant. Accidental
variegation, however, is also occasionally met
with among exotic Ferns of warm and cool
temperature, principally among Cyrtomium,
Doodia, Loniaria, and Nephrolepis, in which
portions of fronds are more or less streaked and
splashed with either white or creamy yellow, and
it is quite possible that by careful selection we
may eventually find the variegation in some of
these plants permanently fixed, although it is not
always the case.

When visiting Messrs. J. Veitch and Sobs'
nursery at Chelsea I recently noticed young
plants of a very prettily variegated form of the
semi-hardy Japanese Lastrea atrata, which, I
was told, was raised by Mr. H. B. May, of
Edmonton. This new-comer apparently pos-
sesses all the qualities for which the typical
green form is so much appreciated. At the
same place I was also shown a very prettily and
regularly variegated frond of the justly popular
Doryopteris palmata. This, however, is not
yet entirely fixed, a small percentage only of
the seedlings possessing the variegated charac-
ter. The same may be said of a splendidly

96

THE GARDEN.

[February 9, 1895.

variegated form of Pteris serrulata cristata,
which forms a bushy plant of compact habit,
each frond well crested and well variegated.
These two last plants were raised by a Con-
tinental nurseryman, who, being a keen ob-
server, does not give any stray seedling the
chance of disappearing and being lost to Fern
amateurs.

If we take variegated Ferns according to their
decorative value, we may — as the best one of
those adapted to cool culture — give first place to
the beautiful

Pteris cretica albo-lineata, which may
reasonably claim to be the most distinct and use-
ful of variegated Ferns, and the value of its de-
corative qualities is sufficiently shown by the
enormous quantities of it which every year, and
in all sizes, pass through our London markets.
This Fern is usually considered a native of Japan.
In contradiction to this, however, Lowe, in his
excellent work, "New and Rare Ferns," pub-
lished in 1871, says (p 39): " It was introduced
into England in 1860, having been received from
the Botanic Gardens of Java." He also adds that
some hundreds of plants of it had been raised at
the Royal Gardens, Kew, from spores, and that
every one was quite true, not a single normal green
frond being found among them. It is also stated
in the "Synopsis Filicum " that it had been
gathered in Brazil by Dr. Glaziou. A thoroughly
distinctive character of this variety lies in the
great dissimilarity of its barren and fertile fronds.
The former, forming the body of the plant, are
broad and of a somewhat spreading habit ; whereas
the latter, much narrower in all their parts, are
erect and well above the others, thus giving the
plant a highly ornamental appearance. But it is
the beauty and clearness of its variegation and its
hardiness which no doubt have secured a well-
deserved popularity for this remarkable Fern,
which is particularly well adapted for the decora-
tion of the dwelling-room, where, provided it re-
ceives careful treatment, it remains for a long
time in perfect health, the broad silver bands
which occupy the centre of its fronds and the
bright green colour peculiar to their edges being
extremely attractive. In

P. cretica Mayi we have a home-raised
crested and also beautifully variegated form of P.
cretica in which the dissimilarity of fronds, al-
though very conspicuous, does not form a distinc-
tive character. Although in this case the varie-
gation is of equal brilliancy, the fronds are nearly
uniform in size, and instead of standing erect, all
the fertile ones partake more or less of the spread-
ing character which in the typical plant is pecu-
liar to the barren fronds, forming a plant of com-
pact growth and habit similar to the several
known crested, but green forms of this essentially
decorative species. It also reproduces itself true
from spores.

P. c. nobilis variegata, also a home-raised va-
riety, differs from the preceding in its more com-
pact and stiffer habit, the barren and fertile fronds
alike being borne on stiff stalks of a brownish
colour. Their leafy portion, also more important
than in P. c. Mayi, is all undulated, of a bright
green colour along the edges, with a broad white
band in each leaflet, forming a striking and most
pleasing contrast. Among the plants of larger
dimensions equally well adapted for culture in the
cool house we have

P. nemoralis variegata, whose fronds, 20
inches to 24 inches long, are rendered very attrac-
tive by the centre of each of their numerous
pinna? being of a bright pinkish colour, gradually,
however, fading into white, a colour which they
retain as long a8 they remain on the plant.

Lastr.ea aristata variegata is a plant of Ja-
panese origin and a very handsome Fern, which
needs no further proof of its excellence than the
great esteem in which it is held by the public as
a plant of first-class quality for indoor decoration.
The variegation of its handsome leathery fronds,
18 inches to 24 inches long, is very effective. It
consists of a pale green or whitish band running

all along the centre of each leaflet on a dark
shining ground. It is worthy of notice that this
variety reproduces itself freely and quite true
from spores, and also that, although the contrast
between the colours of the centre and of the sides
of the leaflets is much more conspicuous in speci-
mens which have been subjected to a little heat,
this plant succeeds admirably in the greenhouse.
Its constitution and the nature of its fronds render
it one of the most enduring of all cool Ferns. It
is even perfectly hardy in several favoured counties
and remains outdoors uninjured through the
winter in Cornwall, Devonshire and Somerset-
shire. In

Athyrium Goringianum pictum or tricolor
we have another Japanese Fern of medium size,
as hardy as the preceding one, but of a deciduous
nature. Its fronds, which are abundantly pro-
duced from a fleshy underground crown, are very
graceful, though very brittle, and particularly
striking on account of their pretty claret-coloured
stalks, which form a most pleasing contrast to the
bright grey colour of the leaflets disposed on each
side. These are furnished throughout with a cen-
tral white band running the whole length of the
frond, and is as effective as in the better-known
Pteris tricolor.

DlCTYOGRAMMA JAPONICA VARIEGATA, a very

distinct and hardy Japanese plant, may also be
classed among variegated Ferns, for, when freshly
developed, its fronds, which are produced from a
thick, fleshy, underground rhizome, show unmis-
takable signs of variegation, which, however,
gradually disappear as maturity is attained.

It would be most interesting to know whether
some of the variegated forms of British Ferns
which were best known some twenty-five or
thirty year3 ago are still in existence, and, with
a view to helping in ascertaining where they
may now be found, I will here give short
descriptions and a few particulars respecting
their habitats, <fec, according to E. J. Lowe's
authority, as given in his excellent work, "Our
Native Ferns."

Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum VARIEGATUM, so
named by G. B. Wollaston, is said to be a beauti-
ful variety, normal in outline, its fronds being
striped symmetrically with white. It was found
in Yorkshire and in Guernsey by the late Mr. C.
Jackson.

POLYPODIUM VULGARE VARIEGATUM. — Of this,

two distinct forms were said to exist formerly in
British collections; one with sharp pointed fronds,
pretty distinctly striped with yellowish white
stripes, found at Oldstead, Yorkshire, by Mr. C.
Monkman, of Malton, and another found near
Cark, Lancashire, by Messrs. Slansfield. The
fronds of this form, nearly normal in outline, are
of a leathery texture and marbled above with
yellow blotches. Neither of these Ferns, we are
told (" Our Native Ferns," vol. i., p. 53), proved
constant under cultivation.

SCOLOPENDRIDM VULGARE VARIEGATUM. — Several

forms of this plant have been known in collections,
the principal ones being variegatum Claphami, a
dwarf plant found by the late Mr. Clapham in
North Yorkshire. Its fronds, normal in size, but
slightly dilated at their extremity, are sometimes
beautifully variegated with white. Another form
called variegatum Willisoni, also a native of North
Yorkshire, is also of dwarf habit, and its fronds
are variegated with yellowish white. In both
cases, however, the variegation is given as " only
sub permanent." According to Lowe, S. fissum
variegatum and S. variegato crenatum are, or
were, two handsome forms ; the former with
fronds narrow at the base and wide near the
summit, but becoming rapidly acute to the lip,
and differing from S. fissum only through its
being variegated ; the latter, a very fine varie-
gated form of S. crenatum, with fronds forked at
their summit and about 7 inches in length. The
best variegated form of the common Hart's-
tongue, however, appears to be the one named
after its fortunate discoverer, Mr. Elworthy, and

is described as a " handsome, permanent variety,
of a normal form and much variegated."

POLYSTICHUM ANGULARE VARIEGATUM. — The
soft Shield Fern has also produced several varie-
gated forms, which are described in Lowe's excel-
lent work as having been in British collections.
One found near Littlehampton, Sussex, called
variegato-pra?morsum, has its fronds furnished
with pinnie of various dimensions and forms and
pinnules spiny-toothed and very irregular. An-
other form named variegato-cristatum, originally
found near Southampton, has fronds normal in all
their parts, except that their summit as well as
the extremity of their pinna' are crisply tasselled :
while another called variegatocrispatum, and
found in the Isle of Wight, has fronds 12 inches
to 18 inches long, with thick, narrow, undulate
pinna? and crisped pinnules. In these three va-
rieties, all of which have been discovered by Mr.
G. B. Wollaston, of Chislehurst, the whole plant
is said to be beautifully variegated with cream
colour during the spring and early part of the
summer, but whether the variegation is conspicu-
ous or not during summer and autumn is not
stated.

Besides the plants above described there are
several other well variegated Ferns, such as
Pteris argyrea and Victoria}, Adiantum cunea-
tum variegatum and macrophyllum albo-stria-
tum, and others, but although these may exist
under cool treatment, it is well known that
they do not really flourish unless they are sub-
jected to a warmer temperature. With the
exception of Athyrium Goringianum pictum,
which loses its foliage during the winter, all
the above named plants will help to relieve the
monotony of the cold fernery at this time of
the year, as a temperature of 40° to 45° is all
they require, especially when they are planted
out, for we may here call the attention of in-
tending cultivators to the difference in point of
hardiness between the plants grown in pots
and those planted out. The latter possess over
the former a great advantage, inasmuch as
their roots, even if only a few inches below the
surface of the soil, are protected against the
action of cold ; whereas the roots of the plants
grown in pots are readily affected by the more
or less sudden changes of temperature from
which the delicate texture of the extremity of
the roots in immediate contact with the pots
cannot fail to suffer. It may be safely asserted
that a Fern which thrives in a winter tempera-
ture of 40° when planted out requires when
grown in a pot 45° to 50° to grow equally well ;
hence the obvious advantages of the planting-
out system. Doodia.

Adiantum Farleyense. — This beautiful Fern
is not grown nearly so much as it deserves to be.
Many gardeners find it a difficult subject to grow
well, and some make the mistake of potting it in
the ordinary compost for Ferns, viz., peat, loam,
sand, &c. The former it does not like, but it will
do well in good yellow fibrous loam, rough leaf-
mould, and some coarse silver sand, with a few
lumps of charcoal. Some recommend a little
bone-meal to be added, but I never use it, pre-
ferring to give the plants liquid manure as soon
as the pots get full of roots. The pots should be
well drained, never allowing the plants to suffer
from want of water, and never syringing over-
head. Plants that are not satisfactory should be
turned out of the pots as soon as growth com-
mences, split up into single crowns and placed in
3-inch pots, moving into 5-inch pots as soon as
the small ones get filled with roots. These will
make nice little plants for house decoration in
the autumn. I have some here now in 5-inch
pots that were treated exactly as I have described
with from twenty to thirty fronds on a plant.
Many of the fronds are 20 inches in length. The
temperature of a plant stove suits it well. —
C. R. C. W.

— rr

LILIUM BROWNI.VAR. LEUCANTHUM

FebruaiiY 9, 1895.)

THE GARDEN

97

Garden Flora,
plate 1000.

LIL1UM BROWNI AND ITS VARIETIES.

(with a coloured plate of l. browni

leucanthum.*)

The Liliunis of China and Japan have given the

botanist a great deal of trouble owing to their

Lilium Browni, showing growth.

multiplicity of forms, the result of long cultiva-
tion in the gardens of China and Japan. These
cultivated forms have been introduced into
Europe, and when they come to be compared i
with each other and with their progenitors, the '
wild types, it is not easy to classify them. This
accounts for the error that was made in regard
to L. Browni. Some time previous to 3845 a
Mr. F. E. Brown, nurseryman at Slough, flow-
ered a Lilium which he named after himself
and distributed. Botanists, however, decided
that it was L. japonicum, a species described
by Thunberg, the Dutch botanist, many years
before, and this view was accepted until lately,
when the French botanist Franchet pointed
out that true L. japonicum has pure white,
open, cup-shaped flowers and lanceolate, dis-
tinctly stalked leaves, and probably has never
been seen alive in Europe. Mr. Baker, of
Kew, has arrived at nearly the same conclusion,
but he recognises Thunberg's plant in what we
know as L. Krameri. He wrote in 1891 : —

We used to think that this (L. Browni) was the i
japonicum of Thunberg, but when Mr. Elwes was
preparing his monograph the authorities of the
museum at Upsala kindly lent us Thunberg's
type specimen, and we found, to our surprise,
that it was not this species, but what we had

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon in the
Royal Gardens, Kew. Lithographed and printed by
Guillanme Severeyns.

been calling L. Krameri, so that we had to fall
back on the next oldest name for the present
plant, which is L. Browni.

We are not now concerned about L. Krameri,
but it is satisfactory to know that L. Browni of
1845 is still L. Browni, and that the picture in
The Garden, Vol. XXIX. (188G), p. 350, is
L. Browni true, and not L. japonicum. In
The Garden, Vol. XLIII. (1893), p. 41, there
will be found a most interesting account of the
Lilies of China and Thibet, which
is a translation of a paper pre-
pared by M. Franchet and pub-
lished in the French journal of
botany. M. Franchet's descrip-
tion of L. Browni may fittingly be
quoted here : —

L. Browni. — A Chinese species
found in the island of Cbusan (the
homo of Cham;erops Fortunei); also
on the hills around Kiu-Kiang, in
the province of Kiang-si, Ichang,
&c. It exactly resembles L. longi-
florum, but its flowers are larger,
being from 6 inches to 8 inches long
in wild specimens, and the divisions
of the perianth are tinged with violet
(red-brown) on the exterior. The
most reliable distinctive character-
istic of L. Browni is the presence
of a more or less dense down of
small papillose hairs on the margin
of the nectariferous furrow, and on
the filaments of the stamens and
frequently on the style.

L. Browni is not a popular Lily
in England, because it cannot be
established as we can establish,
for instance, L. auratum or L.
speciosum. It is, however, often
imported in quantity, and finds
ready customers among those who
know its beauty and who are satis-
fied with the truly rich display it
rarely fails to make the first year.
It winters badly with us, no matter
how one treats it. The most suc-
cessful method I know of is to lift
the bulbs in late autumn and keep
them in a cold frame, burying
them in new cocoa-nut fibre or
light peat and sand till February.
Dr. Henry states that in Ichang, where, it
grows wild amongst the mountains, L. Browni
produced, when well cultivated, as many as
fifteen flowers.

Var. lf.ucanthum. — This is the third good
garden Lily that we owe to the
zeal of Dr. Augustine Henry,
F.L.S., who held a post in the
Chinese Imperial Customs till re-
cently, and who during his stay
in Ichang, in the exact centre of
China, collected largely in the in-
terests of botany. In 18S9 he
forwarded to Kew a small box
of Liliums, and from these have
flowered the beautiful L. Henryi,
of which a coloured plate with
the histor}' of the plant was pub-
lished in The Garden, Vol. XL.
(1891), p. 4'22 ; L. Browni var.
chloraster, described below, and
that represented in the plate
herewith. This is a distinct and
beautiful Lily, undoubtedly a
form of L. Browni, the bulbs,
habit, foliage, and other botanical
characters being the same, but
from a horticultural point of
view it is greatly superior in its
good behaviour under cultivation,
that is so far as experience with it at Kew goes
to show its character as a garden plant. It differs
from all the other forms of L. Browni in having

white flowers, shaded a delicate yellow on the lower
part of the segments inside, and in the broad base
of its tube. It was planted in a bed outside at Kew
in 1891 and left in the' ground without protection
till it flowered last year. The bulbs when they
arrived in 18S9 were no larger than chestnuts ;
when lifted a short time ago some of them were
as large as a man's fist. When in flower last
August the tallest had a stem 4 feet high, green,
the largest leaves 4 inches long, an inch broad,
with three distinct nerves, those near the flowers
being much shorter and ovate in form. The cha-
racters of the flowers are well shown in Mr. Moon's
drawing; the largest were 6 in. long and the inner
segments were over 2 in. wide, the reflexed portion
of the segments comparatively short. Mr. Wallace,
of Colchester, agrees with me that this is one of
the finest of Eastern Lilies.

Var. chloraster. — This plant first flowered in
the open air at Kew in 1891, when it was described
by Mr. Baker as " a well-marked variety of L.
longiflornm, with flowers resembling L. Browni."
He shortly afterwards identified it as a form of
L. Browni, and described it in the Gardeners'
Chronicle in August, 1891, under its present name-
It came, as already stated, along with L. Henryi
and the plant herewith figured. In stature and
general appearance it resembles the variety
leucanthum, from which, however, it may be
distinguished by its brown-tinted stem, narrower
leaves and less nodding flowers. As its name
signifies, it has a green tinge along the keels of the
segments, which is broadest and most conspicuous
inside the flowers. Until leucanthum flowered,
we thought chloraster a first-class Lily. In its be-
haviour out of doors it has been quite as satisfac
tory as leucanthum. It may be worth recording
that a good judge of Lilies suggested that these
two varieties may have originated from a cross be-
tween L. Browni and L. auratum.

Var. odorum, which was first described by
Planchon with a figure in "Flore des Serres," t.
876 (1853), is now recognised as a variety only of
L. Browni. It was figured in the Botanical
Magazine in 1813 (t. 1591) as L. japonicum. It
differs from the type in having a whitish or yel-
lowish bulb (in the type the bulb is brown), narrow
scales, green stems, thinner, less glossy leaves, and
the flowers, which are smaller, are not so much
tinged with red-brown. It is rare in gardens.

Var. PLATYPHYLLrM. — Mr. Baker found among
the specimens collected by D. Henry those of a
Lilium with flowers like those of chloraster, but
with anthers 1 inch long, whilst the stem was only
1 foot long, though the ieaves were broader. It
may be among the bulbs received at the same time
as L. Henryi, &c., as some of them have not yet
flowered.

Var. viridulum. — This was introduced and
flowered by Mr. Ware, of Tottenham, and described

Bulb of Lilium Browni.

by Mr. Baker in 1885. It has very short, broad
leaves, cream-coloured flowers, only slightly tinged
with red-brown outside.

98

THE GARDUJST.

[February 9, 1895.

Cultivators of Liliums may here be reminded
that many of the species will ripen seeds if the
flowers are fertilised, and from these quantities
of flowering bulbs may be raised in two or three
years. There is a large batch of L. Henryi at
Kew, some of which will probably flower this
year, and they are only fourteen months old
from Kew-ripened seeds. A similar batch of
the rare L. formosanum was raised at Kew three
years ago, many of which flowered when a year
old. The bulb scales also may be utilised for
propagating. W. W.

The week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

French Beans. — Fresh sowings of these should
now be made, and, with lengthening days and
increased sun heat, the yield will be better. In
addition to Osborne's Forcing and Syon House,
Newington Wonder and, where head room is
plentiful, Canadian Wonder may be sown, small
batches of each affording a succession, particu-
larly if a little more heat is given to some than to
others. The 6-inch pots may also now be re-
placed by those 8 inches in diameter, and the
compost made a little stronger and richer than
for the earlier lots. Six Beans in each pot are
ample ; therefore, when germinated reduce to that
number. Crowding is ruinous. If a Cucumber or
Melon pit can be spared, Beans do capitally in
such positions, but the bottom heat should not
exceed 75°, 70° as a maximum top heat suiting
well. Where no other convenience exists than
pits which have to be watered by removing the
lights from the outside, I would advise sowing
the Beans in 8 inch or 9-inch pots, and plunging
them in the warm leaves and litter, as grown in
this way the foliage is less rank and flabby, and
suffers less from removing the lights for water-
ing. When a good quantity of bloom has set,
pinch the leads, in order to strengthen the plants
and improve the crop. An effectual method of
supporting Beans in pits is to place stout sticks
at each end and in the centre of each row, and to
carry thin twine from one to the other.

Permanent Seakale beds. — The crowns of
these will now readily respond if covered first of
all with Seakale pots, and afterwards with half
leaves and half stable manure, not too decayed,
treading the material well in between the pots,
and allowing a top covering of at least a foot. A
testing stick should be thrust in and examined
occasionally. Where there are no pots the stools
may be surmounted by stout stakes, bent over
and secured at the tops, the heating material
being piled round and over them. Rhubarb may
also be forced in a similar way. Beds of Seakale
intended to supply the last lot but one should
also be covered with a good thickness of leaves,
these being kept from blowing about by a layer of
straw. Treated thus, growth will come on gradu-
ally, and be ready for cutting as soon as the pot-
covered crowns are finished.

Parsley. — This is most in demand at the worst
period of the year, and much forethought is re-
quisite to keep up a supply in large places. If the
roots which have been protected in pits or frames
have been picked so closely that a scarcity is
apprehended, large boxes may be filled with soil
and the roots laid in thickly, the boxes being then
placed in a temperature of 60". Growth will soon
follow, and a sufficiency be had until that in the
pits again springs into growth. A few boxes may
also be sown in heat.

Onions and Leeks. — Where extra large and
early Onions are required, seed of such sorts as
Cranston's Excelsior, Ailsa Craig, or the Wroxton
may now be sown in heat. Boxes may be used,
the seed being sown on a firm surface of good
holding loam placed over a good layer i f well de-
composed manure, merely covering the seed and
afterwards placing the box in a warm house aver-
aging 60° at night, sprinkling with a fine rose or

syringe, and elevating them well up to the glass.
Small pots, however, are preferable, sowing a few
seeds in each, and leaving the most central plant in
each pot when thinning out. They must be kept
in heat for some weeks after germinating, being
gradually hardened off in April. Leeks tor pro-
ducing extra large specimens may also be sown
in the same way and treated similarly, using the
richest soil obtainable, and only sifting that which
covers the seed. A good strain of the Lyon cannot
be beaten either for size or quality.

SPINACH. — A warm, sunny border should now
be utilised for sowing a few rows of this vegetable,
as it is very hardy and quickly germinates. This
will be ready for gathering by the time the earliest
sown winter batches are over. The latter can then
be cleared off the ground, manure dug in, and
another crop sown. A large breadth at this date
is not needed, as Pea sowing will soon become fre-
quent, and Spinach may then be sown between the
rows. As soon as beds of winter Spinach are
cleaned and hoed, a dressing of artificial manure
should be given to assist growth.

Brussels Sprouts. — Seed for the production of
very early sprouts, say at the end of September,
may now be sown. In cold, exposed gardens,
however, sowing should be postponed for three
weeks later. Where the demand is small, a good-
sized box will suffice for sowing the seed in, plac-
ing it in a warm greenhouse and eventually prick-
ing out the young plants into larger boxes or in a
frame on a mild hotbed. No better site can be
selected for early Brussels Sprouts than that
from which Celery has been dug. If this is trod-
den as soon as dry enough and retrodden previous
to the plants being put out, the sprouts will be
hard and of medium size, the reverse of what
would be produced by a quantity of fresh ma-
nure. Later crops need more stimulants. Good
sorts for early work are Northaw Prize and Paris
Market. Where Carrots are forced in frames the
sprouts may be sown between the rows, and
transplanted when of sufficient size.

Spring Cabbage. — Crops of this important
vegetable growing in all but the heaviest soils
may now be hastened on by the use of the Dutch
hoe between the rows and by slightly earthing up
the stems. On soils inclined to be cold, a sprink-
ling of guano applied broadcast before hoeing
takes place will help the plants greatly, and on
fairly warm soils any approved fertiliser will
answer. All yellow and rotten leaves should first
be removed, and if gaps through death or de-
formity abound, they should be made good by the
use of an outside row, taken up carelully with a
ball of soil attached, and planted firmly. As a
safeguard, it is always well to sow a little seed of
an early variety in a box or pan, as they often do
good service, and if not wanted the labour is not
much. Early Ellam's, Cocoa-nut, or Earliest of
All are good and certain sorts for the purpose.
Enough seed for a couple of rows of Enfield
Market or Early Rainham may also be sown, this
following the first named, and continuing in us-
able condition for a good time.

Cardoons. — These will now come in well for a
change, and will help out other things if a good
quantity were stored away in a cool shed on the
first appearance of sharp frost. Litter put over
the plants in the open ground is sometimes
depended upon, but it often proves useless and the
Cardoons perish. I have seen them hung up by
the heels in the Onion shed and remain sound for
some weeks. These are impoverishing things and
rather troublesome to grow, but if the seed is
sown later in the season — say the middle of April
— the plants attain to a very useful size and can
be managed as easily as Celery. The seed is best
sown in small pots and the plants grown on in
warmth, afterwards hardening off and planting out
with the ball intact. Feeding on a liberal scale
when growing is necessary.

Cool-grown Radishes. — A sowing of Wood's
Frame or French Breakfast may now be made in
a cold frame or pit in light friable soil. These
will be ready for pulling by the time the supply
from hotbeds and early Potato frames is ex-
hausted. If a single light frame only can be

spared, mix the seed of the two varieties together',
and so secure a pulling of each. Cover at night
with long dry litter or Bracken and give no air,
even during sunny days, till the young seedlings
appear, when liberal thinning and abundant ven-
tilation will be necessary. A sowing may also be
made in a warm sheltered corner, and, if possible,
on a slightly raised bed, sowing the same sorts
and covering at once with litter. This must re-
main on until the Radishes appear, and then be
removed each frost-free day, being again replaced
each evening. Acres are thus grown in the neigh-
bourhood of London.

Hardy greens. — The majority of Coleworts that
were planted out sufficiently early to form good
solid hearts will ere now have been cut, but au-
tumn-planted batches, which will have to be used
as ordinary greens, are yet numerous. As, however,
after this date these are liable to bolt, the best
plan is to lift them carefully and lay them in
behind a north wall, in which position they will
keep fresh and good for some weeks longer. The
ground can then be manured and dug in readiness
for Peas, Beans, or other early crops. As soon as
the severe frost disappears, quarters of Scotch
Kale should be gone through and all the lower
leaves removed from the stems. This will induce
fresh young sprouts to issue from every joint,
these proving most useful during April when there
is a scarcity.

Spring Broccoli.— The past few weeks have
been very trying to some varieties of spring Broc-
coli, these being often so damaged just beneath
the crown as to prevent the heads from swelling
to half their normal size. If they have not yet
been protected by hay-bands or Bracken worked
freely in amongst the stems it should now be
done. Where heads of the Leamington Sulphur
or Early Penzance have already grown to the size
of tea-cups, lifting had better take place, remov-
ing them with stem and root to a cool shed and
laying them in leaf-mould or other dryish soil
and giving a slight top covering of dry littery
material. These, though small, will prove most
acceptable in the dining room. Where Cooling's
Matchless is grown for March supply it should
now receive some protection in a similar way.

J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Pines — early fruiters. — A few of the strongest
plants should be started, selecting those with
thick stems and of good sturdy habit, placing
them in a closer house or pit with more bottom
heat. For this batch I prefer a small, close house
with every provision for a nice genial heat. Admit
every ray of light. The glass should be clean and
new material placed in position for plunging, this
being made firm. Should any doubt exist as to
over-heating, place the plants on the surface,
having trial sticks in the heating material to test
warmth. Plunge the plants when the tempera-
ture is falling and the heat at about 90°. For
reliable fruiting, Queens are the best for the time
named, and those with a knowledge of Pines can
readily judge the best plants. If kept at rest
during the winter they often start or push up the
fruit at once when placed in their fruiting
quarters ; whereas if kept too warm and growing
they are much longer about. The plants have
longer leaves, are often loose at the collar, and
need more care in plunging. If at all loose, re-
move some of the lower leaves and top-dress the
plants with large pieces of turfy loam, well ram-
ming the material close to the stem. Should this
fail, I have used a short stake at the base to se-
cure the plant to, ramming the soil firmly. If
bottom heat is supplied by hot water, the plunging
is simplified and there is less fear of burning, as
with fresh tan, leaves or manure. Even with hot-
water it is well to maintain a regular tempera-
ture, as fluctuations cause uneven growths, and
the plants do not take regular supplies of moisture
and food. As soon as the plants are well settled
down, give liquid manure or guano water, but free
from thick matter. Before applying manures, if
the balls of the plants are dry, water with tepid

February 9, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

99

water and get the whole mass saturated before
applying stimulants. The temperature of the
house for the early fruiting plants should not be
too high at the start, 70° being sufficient in most
houses, with a rise of 10° by sun heat early in the
day. The night temperature may be a few degrees
lower, 65° being high enough in severe weather.
To prevent excessive firing cover the outside glass
with a warm covering at nightfall, and in fine
weather increase the atmospheric moisture, damp-
ing all parts of the house except the hot-water
pipes. Keep the moisture at this time of the
year out of the hearts of the plants, and give
more moisture in all parts of the house as the days
lengthen.

StJOCESSlONAL Pines. — The cream of the plants
having been picked out for early fruits, the suc-
cessions will be left in an irregular condition. As
these need less attention in the way of heat and
moisture, it is not well for another month to force
into growth. Any plants showing signs of start-
ing may have the warmest position and a little
more moisture at the root. It is not advisable to
remove these plants if they can be kept quiet for
a short time longer — rather have as many for
succession as possible. The temperature should
not be raised much, as at the time of writing the
weather is very wintry. At the time these notes
are penned, 60° at night are ample, and 65° to 70°
by day. Ventilate during bright sunshine, with
occasional dampings down. Strong suckers potted
up early last fruiting season should be kept moist.
These will not have rested during the winter, and
will give a good return next August. If kept
growing place them near the pipes, and with more
moisture they will be in good condition to pot
later on.

General stock an i> potting. — Old plants should
receive more atmospheric moisture, with a genial
bottom-heat and a slightly raised day tempera-
ture if the weather is bright. Make preparations
for potting. The strong plants will require a
good shift, the largest into 10-inch or 12-inch pots.
Get the pots in readiness, washing and placing
them ready for use. Avoid using new pots if
others well seasoned can be had. Well drain the
pots, using clean crocks, and for the larger plants
a special compost as rough and fibrous as possible
for the larger plants. This should be placed in
bulk under cover in the potting shed, so that it is
in good condition by the time required. For
small suckers smaller pots and finer material will
be wanted, and should be got ready for repotting
next month. As fresh heating material is needed
in large quantities next month for both succes-
sion and other small stock, collect it into large
heaps for the heat to go through the whole mass,
turning it frequently to dry the materials. This
does not apply to tan, but as manure and leaves
are often used for small stock, it should be pre-
pared as advised to got rid of steam and violent
heat. Small plants may be kept from 5° to 10°
lower than succession plants, but should any
plants have got sour or are sickly, repot earlier
than advised, having got both the potting and
plunging material ready before beginning the
work. Use plenty of drainage material in the
soil to keep it open, and keep the pits close after
potting, giving moisture sparingly at the roots
for a time.

Strawberries in pots.— Another lot of plants
should now be prepared for forcing, and as only few
can devote a house to Strawberries, they have to be
forced in a variety of ways. For forcing to fruit
early in April there is no more reliable kind than
La Grosse Sucree, which forces well, as it often
only produces a single well-matured crown, and
the flower-stalk comes well out of the centre of
the plant. The flavour is excellent, being very
sweet. This variety does not make so much foli-
age as some others, and therefore the plants may
be grown more closely together. I would also
advise Royal Sovereign for early April fruits.
The fruits are large, flavour brisk and luscious,
and if required to pack for long distances,
superior to La Grosse Sucree in that respect.
Plants placed in fruit houses at this date should
be thoroughly cleansed before going on shelves,

also the foliage dipped to get rid of any pests
lurking in the foliage. Use sulphur freely for the
destruction of mildew. Very little moisture will
be required at the start, but in fine weather
syringe the plants overhead freely. The best
results are obtained by allowing the plants a long
period at the start. Any attempt to hurry them
will end in failure ; whereas forced slowly there
will be a good return. Many can devote shelves
in houses just starting to Strawberries, and
treated thus they sot well and finish little inferior
to those in the open. The plants placed in a mild
bottom heat late in the year will now be showing
flower-spikes freely, and may be given more
warmth, also a rise of 5° and as light a position as
possible. Syringing must cease as the flowers
expand, and in mild weather give a chink of air
daily. At this early date fertilisation of flowers
will be necessary. This should be done at midday
in bright weather. Plants just coming into bloom
should he fumigated several nights in succession,
as this work cannot be performed later whilst in
full flower. As soon as a good set is secured,
reduce the fruits to eight or ten at the most, as
more will not finish well. Syringe daily with
tepid water, raise the temperature, and give weak
liquid manure. To push on a few very early
fruits of such kinds as Vicomtesse, which will do
well in a moist house, after thinning, the plants
will make quicker progress if moved into Pino
stoves or houses with a temperature of 00° to Til"
by day with more warmth. More food can be
given till the fruits commence to colour.

Cccdmbers. — The plants that have been giving
winter supplies will be less vigorous now, and re-
quire every encouragement until the newly-planted
ones come into bearing. Give rich surface dress-
ings of bone-meal and soil warmed before placing
on the surface, also liquid manure. As long as
the plants send out new growth a supply will be
maintained, but when this ceases it is useless to
give food as advised. Rather hasten the succes-
sion plants, and by stopping at the earliest
moment get a few fruits to form a succession.
Another sowing should be made for later use, as
often in private gardens there is a greater demand
in the spring for Cucumbers, and as there is no
advantage in growing exhausted plants, the house
or pit in which the winter stock is will be avail-
able. Plants coming into bearing should not be
allowed to carry too much fruit at first. They
must be assisted frequently with rich surface-
dressings, a steady bottom-heat of SO° and 65° to
70° at night, with a free rise of temperature by
day, with a free amount of moisture in all parts
of the house, hastening growth. If practicable,
cover the glass at night to maintain warmth with-
out excessive firing. At this date little air will
be required if due attention be paid to moisture ;
indeed, cold draughts of air mean red spider,
thrips, and green-fly. G. Wythes.

Rose Garden.

PLANTING OF DWARF ROSE STOCKS.
While it is quite right to plant our hedge
Briers for standards and half-standards during
the autumn or early winter, I certainly think we
are wiser in delaying the transplanting of dwarf
stocks until the middle of February and March.
Such at any rate has been the result of my
experience and observations. Our standards
have been more or less exposed to cold from
their first growth in sucker form, but, although
we propagated the cuttings of all dwarfs from
wood equally exposed, they have been kept
from light and weather influences during the
whole period they were forming stocks. Nor,
as a rule, has the wood utilised for stocks had
any frost ; certainly none of any severity where
propagated at the most suitable time. This,
then, combined with the more tender or softer
bark formed beneath the surface soil, renders

our dwarf stocks rather susceptible to a severe
frost. More especially is this the case with the
Manetti, and I have frequently seen a bed of
good stocks crippled by frost when planted in
the autumn. The cutting Brier is a little
hardier ; so, too, are the seedlings ; but, never-
theless, I prefer spring to autumn planting of
all dwarf Rose stocks.

A hint or two upon these is suggested by a
complaint from a friend that small seedlings had
been forwarded to him, whereas he required
some fit to work upon during the coming
summer. A two-year- old seedling of the thick-
ness of a small knitting-needle is most suitable,
but they may be of less diameter than this, and
still swell quite sufficiently to be safe for the
majority of Teas and Noisettes, also for the
smaller of the Hybrid Perpetual buds. It is
during the last few weeks of July and August
that they swell so rapidly, and a summer shower
makes a vast difference. If we plant stocks of
seedling Briers that are large enough for
budding now, say about the size of a lead pencil,
they are almost sure to be much too stout for
Teas to be worked upon with any safety. A
coarse stock, particularly one that continues
to swell so long after the bud is inserted, is apt
to smother the latter. Cut off the tips of the
longest roots of these, ami do not fear to serve
all stocks in the same way. A seedling treated
thus is little inferior to a well-made cutting
Brier stock.

In planting, we must take into due considera-
tion the class of Rose we intend working. If it
be some dwarf and close-growing variety like
Catherine Mermet or Devoniensis from the
Teas, La France and Augustine Guinoisseau
from the Hybrid Teas, or Louis Van Houtte and
Marie Baumaim in the Hybrid Perpetual sec-
tion, then a distance of 9 inches in the row,
with the latter 3 feet apart, is ample. But we
need double the space for Gloire de Dijon,
Reve d'Or, Margaret Dickson, and others, tak-
ing care to give a mid-way position to the or-
dinary growers. Dwarf stocks made from
cuttings are best planted as shallow as we
possibly can, so that they will remain upright.
Then choose the first opportunity when the soil
can be worked easily to draw it up to and
around them in the same manner as cultivating
Potatoes. This not only supports them, but
we can so easily get the hud upon the crown of
the root in due season. The raised soil is easily
removed, and we also find the underlying bark
of the stock in a softer condition for working,
and not so liable to split when inserting a bud
of large size. R.

AMONG OUR INDOOR ROSES IN

FEBRUARY.

In all cases, even in unheated houses, this is
one of our busiest months. It is with the main
batch of our pot Roses that I wish to deal at
present, and here we are certainly at the most
critical period of their existence unless they are
more than usually backward. All of them
have growth, many already showing bud, and
others coming into bloom. This week I was
looking over a garden where pot Roses are not
so well done as they should be, seeing every
facility of heat, room, and labour was available.
No wonder that many condemn a pot Rose as
producing only an occasional bloom of present-
able appearance in cases where they are ne-
glected in the present stage. Once allow in-
sects to gain a hold, or only once give the plants
that disastrous check which is the outcome of
those extreme measures one is sometimes
tempted to use in exterminating insect enemies,
and we may look for an annoying failure with

100

THE GARDEN.

[February 9, 1895

the present crop of bloom. Nor should we be
too generous with liquid manures. We are apt
to look upon Roses as particularly hungry
plants. This is correct enough, but we must
not forget that we have given them a highly
concentrated food in the rich potting soil used ;
therefore, to supply liquid manures freely and
before the roots have been able to take up any
appreciable quantity of the food in the soil is
not a wise proceeding. Allow the new roots to
work into this io the healthy and free way they
delight in doing, and leave liquid manures for
plants in partially exhausted soil, and also as a
sustaining aid to strong growth later on.

Sudden changes of temperature are another
source of many failures. It is somewhat diffi-
cult to ward against this. On January 25 and
26 we had very keen winds and no sun ; the
following morning (Sunday) there were about
15° of frost. Now this was immediately followed
by a bright and clear sunshiny day ; conse-
quently, the house with barely warm pipes was
up to a temperature of 80° and 90° by 11
o'clock. Air could not be afforded, as the wind
was uncertain, and a draught of that kind was
almost sure to start mildew. All we could do
was to keep the place moist and the pipes as
cool as possible ; in fact, the fire was allowed to
go out. It was difficult to keep the temperature
high enough at night and early morning, also
upon more than one occasion during the previous
few days, and then in the space of a few hours
we find an equal difficulty in keeping the heat
sufficiently low and avoiding the inlet of any
cold air. We cannot hope, nor do we need; to
keep up a uniform temperature ; but Roses in full
growth and tenderness cannot be subjected to
extremes with impunity. Some of us, I fear,
are too anxious to see our plants entirely free
from insect enemies. It is very nice to have
them so, but I venture to say we can hardly
secure this and avoid over-doing them with liquid
insecticides or fumigation. Insects spring from
all quarters and at almost any time, and while
we are right in endeavouring to keep them away
entirely, I fear we often err almost as much in
this respect as by allowing them too long a
spell of peace. If we use the syringe judi-
ciously and a weak insecticide, there is little
fear of insects gaining any seriously injurious
hold. I am not now alluding to scale ; this
must be exterminated, or at any rate stubbornly
battled against, and no time is more favourable
than while the wood is dormant. When young
growth has commenced we can seldom deal
with scale effectively. To give a check, whether
by atmospheric extremes, mistakes in watering,
or when cleansing our plants, has far more to
do with the dropping of buds, their turning
black as soon as visible, and also failing to
appear upon well- matured wood than many
apparently realise, if we are to judge by the
treatment accorded in many private gardens.
Another error of no mean consideration is too
great a hurry during the first breaking of new
growth. We must wait for the roots to come
along in due order, more especially when the
plants are turned out of pots. In pots all of
the plant and soil are subjected to the same in-
fluence of heat, and for this reason will stand
rather sharper forcing. R.

Rosa camelliseflora has been on my west wall
ten or twelve years and never bloomed till 1894. I
should not have had patience enough to keep it so
long but forthe beauty of its evergreen shiny foliage.
It is now 10 feet or 11 feet high. Mr. Ellacombe
maintain? that it is the Cherokee Rose(R. sinica,
B. M., 2847), but the leaves of that are strongly
serrated. Mine, which I enclose, are smooth and
the blooms more cup like. — G.

Trees and Shrubs.

RUBUS AUSTRALIS.
The Brambles are essentially plants of the
northern hemisphere, and although common on
the mountains of the tropics, very few reach
the temperate regions of the southern world.
In New Zealand several of our European spe-
cies have become perfectly naturalised, amongst
which are Rubus laciniatus, one of the most
beautiful of all Brambles ; R. leucostachys,
pubescens and discolor, the last of these having
invaded every part of the colony. The only
species, however, truly native of New Zealand
is Rubus australis, the subject of the accom-
panying illustration. It is a species of particu-
lar interest, being, in the first place, one of the
largest, perhaps the very largest of all Rubi.
In its native country it climbs to the top of the
loftiest trees, often, according to Sir J. Hooker,
associated with a climbing Fern — Lygodium.

are borne in large branching panicles and they
are small (less than half an inch across), either
white or faintly pink-tinged and fragrant. They
are also unisexual, the male flowers being dis-
tinguished by a conspicuous ring of numerous
stamens, which are almost absent in the female
flowers. The species is spread over the North
and Middle Islands, occurring most abundantly
on the borders of forests. It is one of the
plants known to the colonists by the name of
" lawyer," and the Maori name is Tataramoa.

So far as the larger part of England is con-
cerned, it cannot be described as strictly hardy.
It may on a sunny wall be grown for some
years, but sooner oi later a frost comes which is
too much for it. It is perfectly at home on the
south and west coasts and in similarly favoured
places. With Canon Ellacombe at Bitton it is,
I believe, a great success. A plant on a south
wall at Kew, which got to be of good size,
was killed a few winters ago. It is now replaced
by a smaller one, and is also represented in the
large temperate house. It is indeed in winter
gardens and cool conservatories that it will in
most parts of the country have to be grown.
Planted at the foot of a Panax or other New
Zealand tree and allowed to grow over it,*a cha-

fcSaV

Rubus australis. From a photograph sent by Miss Hunt, Southfield, Paignton, Devon.

Another feature of interest in connection with
it is its extreme variableness. So far as the
foliage of its different forms is concerned, it
varies from a practically leafless condition to one
possessing a wealth of lustrous deep green leaves
of large size. It is not strictly correct, how-
ever, to speak of it as "leafless," for the leaves
are always there, being made up of three, five
or more leaflets ; but in the particular variety
alluded to (and the one represented in the en-
graving) each leaflet is reduced to a long spiny
petiole and midrib, terminated by a small lan-
ceolate blade a quarter of an inch to 1 inch
long. In other varieties the leaflets are of
ovate outline, usually more or less cordate at
the base, some measuring 2i inches in length
and 2 inches in width, others as much as 4
inches long by one-fourth as much in diameter.
The margins are always coarsely serrated and
the under surface frequently pubescent. The
stem is occasionally quite smooth and never so
formidably armed as the petiole and midrib of
the leaf, which are thickly set with recurved
prickles, these serving the double function of
protection and support.

I am not aware of this Rubus having flowered
in this country. Perhaps it has, but its flowers

racteristic bit of the native flora might be repro-
duced. W. J. Beax.

Kitchen Garden.

BROAD BEANS.

As early in February as the ground can be got
into a free working state the first sowing of
Broad Beans ought to be made. Better, how-
ever, wait till the middle of the month or even
later if the soil cannot be got into a suitable
condition before then, as seed that is puddled in
thus early cannot be depended upon to germinate
properly, and even if the plants did come up
fairly well they would make but poor progress.
If wanted extra early, then by all means try to
have them ready for use as quickly as possible,
even if this means the adoption of the very old
plan of raising enough plants in pots under glass
for a few short rows, hardening off and plant-
ing these out before they become badly root-
bound. As a rule, though, Broad Beans are
not greatly esteemed at the tables o the
wealthier classes, one or two dishes being about

February 9, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

101

all that are asked for. Consequently it scarcely
pays to take so much trouble with the early
crops nor to devote valuable space in sheltered
borders to their culture. If any are grown in
such positions, then it ought to be a dozen or
rather fewer short rows of Beck's Dwarf Green
Gem. This variety may not be quite so early
as the Early Long-pod, but it is altogether supe-
rior to it in point of quality and of a size and
colour that find most favour. Very few owners
of medium-sized to large gardens will tolerate
fully grown Beans of the Long-pod or Broad
Windsor types on the dining-table, and if they
have them at all they must be small or very
young, and when gathered and cooked thus
early they are of a flavour that working men
would consider decidedly objectionable. In
Beck's Green Gem we have a dwarf spreading
variety that produces small pods filled with
green seed very freely, and these when properly
cooked and served are not far removed from
good Peas in point of quality. A distance of 2
feet apart is ample space between the rows, and
the seed may be zigzagged in rather broad drills,
a distance of 4 inches apart being then enough
for the plants. For the dining-table or for my
own use I would prefer to grow this variety for
the successional and midseason supplies, sowing
the seed on ground sloping southwards early
in March, and more again, but in a cooler posi-
tion, directly the last sown are showing through
the ground. By the time the plants from the
third sowing had ceased to produce there is
every likelihood of enough of that class of
Beans having been had for one season, but if
late dishes were desired, more seed could be
sown early in July, ridges between trenches
intended for late Celery answering well for this
crop, a single row being sown through the
centre.

As it happens, my old favourite is far from
being generally grown, and we will next dis-
cuss the merits of the few varieties that do find
favour. As before stated, Early Long-pod is
the earliest Bean I am acquainted with, and
the best strains of this variety are remarkably
prolific. A selection I once had from Mr. D.
Thomson, and which he found the best at
Drumlanrig, produced pods with the greatest
freedom. They were scarcely large enough to
please an exhibitor, but the lower ones touched
the ground, and the haulm cropped to a height
of 3 feet. The seed is moderately large and
the quality good. Seville Long-pod is also early,
and the pods are finer than those of the variety
just mentioned, but they are far too sparingly
produced, and, therefore, the variety is un-
profitable. The Mazagana are later, but very
hardy, the reason why they are so often
recommended for autumn sowing. Leviathan or
Aquadulce are more remarkable for the great
length of pod they can be made to produce than
for any other good quality possessed. Of the
shorter-podded varieties, or Broad Windsor
type, I prefer the Harlington Green, a slight
improvement apparently on the old green form.
In point of colour and quality, too, I think the
green-seeded varieties are decidedly the best,
but the white-seeded forms are also largely
grown, both sorts succeeding better in hot
weather than do the Long-pods. In each and
every case there should be no leaving the pods
hanging long enough for the base of the seed to
become grey, and that whether the skins are
slipped off before or after cooking or not.

Broad Beans fail quickly on hot, non-retentive
soils. What they require is a good depth of
moderately rich, strong soil, clayey loam suiting
them well, though not if in a very lumpy con-
dition at sowing time. Single rows of mode-
rately strong growers may be disposed 2 feet

apart, the seed being sown sufficiently thickly to
be sure of plants being eventually left 4 inches
apart ; but many still prefer the old plan of
sowing in double drills. These double drills are
drawn 4 inches apart, 3-feet intervals being
allowed between them, that is to say, from
double drill to double drill. In this case
enough seed should be sown to be sure of
having plants G inches, or rather less, apart
in each line. Early in the year the seed need
only be covered with 2 inches of soil, but later
on they ought to be from 3 inches to 4 inches
deep, or otherwise dryness may prevent or hin-
der germination. Three or at the most four
successional sowings, the second being made
before the first sowing is just coming through
the ground and the others after the preceding
sowing is showing, are usually ample. Very
few growers can afford to water their rows of
Beans during dry weather ; they do not pay for
the trouble, in fact ; but the rows ought to be
early and heavily moulded up, a mulching of
manure further serving to conserve the mois-
ture in the ground. As a rule, the moulding up
— somewhat after the manner soil is drawn up
to the haulm of Potatoes — is all the steadying
required ; but if extra fine straight pods are de-
sired, then it pays to thin out and stake some
of the plants, the best shaped pods only being
reserved on them. Topping Broad Beans
hastens the pod-filling and also gets rid of a
plentiful crop of Bean aphis that usually col-
lects at the point of each growth. W. I.

Preparing for Onions. —In getting the ground
into order for this important crop two things must
be borne in mind — a rich larder and a free ad-
mixture of something to prevent the inroads of the
Onion maggot. Where time and labour are plen-
tiful I would certainly advise discarding the
ordinary plan of trenching, preferring to takeout
a very deep cavity at one end of the plot, and
wheeling the soil to the opposite end, afterwards
laying on rich manure in plenty, mixing there-
with plenty of soot. Well work this in from top
to bottom as the work proceeds, throwing the soil
forward continually to the depth of the original
trench. The Onions then get the benefit of the
manure from the very start, which they require.
Firmness being indispensable, light soiis may be
well trodden even now, more retentive ones being
left till the surface can be broken down with forks
in February. — C.

Dwarf versus tall Brussels Sprouts.— The
value of a good strain of dwarf Sprouts is most
marked when seen growing side by side with the
tall kinds. I have a portion of both this year, and
I have decided to give up growing the tall, big-
sprouted kinds. Recently when looking these
over I noticed that the tall-growing kinds nad not
a good sprout nearer than from 6 inches to !) inches
from the ground. On the other hand, the Dwarf
Gem strain had good sprouts near the ground.
Another recommendation of the dwarf strain is
that it stands the frost better, as the leaves hang
down and cover the stem. Again, the dwarf kinds
do not want so much space. This last autumn I
noticed Early Dwarf Gem had good sprouts a
month earlier than the tall-growing ; and now at
the end of January I consider it will continue
bearing as long as the tall-growing kinds. —
J. Crook.

Celery and moisture.— The note at page 40
draws attention to the good quality of Celery this
season. In my experience it was never better. I
do not mean so much for mere size, but for the
crisp, nutty flavour of the heads and their solid
growth. I am not inclined to go as far as
" A. Y. A." and advise that very little feeding of
any kind is required if a fair quantity of manure
is given at planting time, as in dry seasons the
plants when they attain a fair growth absorb the
food more quickly, and rich food in the way of
surface supplies is necessary, or there is a check,

with the result the plants bolt and those left are
tough and flavourless. It may be thought, why
should liquid manures be given more in dry
seasons? because when given these the plants
absorb the food more readily ; whereas in a wet or
dripping autumn the soil is not in condition and
the plants are so full of growth that such aids
are not required. My opinion is that a wet
season is just what the plants like, provided there
is good drainage and the plants are not moulded
up too early, this latter being the reason of
decay. I am not an advocate for giving a large
body of manure at planting-time. This may be
carried to excess, as the plants at the start cannot
absorb such quantities and do not get the food at
the proper time. If given liquid manure once in
ten days growth will be solid and there will be no
decay. In Celery culture the best results are
obtained by varying the treatment according to
the season. They certainly like a wet season if
other requirements are attended to. — W. M.

Standard-bearer Celery. — Those who require
a medium-sized Celery of first-class flavour would
do well to give this variety a trial. It is one of
the best keepers I have grown. For spring use I
have found none so reliable. It is not large, but
the flavour is all that can be desired. I have
had this variety good well into May. I usually
sow the seed early in April on a warm border,
placing a frame over it till the seeds come through,
and plant direct into the trenches. By this means
I get late heads with little trouble. I lift early in
March from the trenches and place in a cool place
under a north wall or trees to check growth ; by
this means it may be had much later in the sea-
son.—S. H. B.

Model Carrot. — This is an excellent early
variety and far superior to the old Shorthorn
kinds. Last year I sowed this variety, and the
older kind the first week in March on a warm
border, and it was fit for use two weeks in advance
of the older form. The roots of this variety are
about 6 inches long, symmetrical in shape, thick
at the shoulder, and stump-ended, the skin
smooth and of a bright scarlet colour. For frame
work it is excellent. I sowed this variety last
August in the open for drawing in a fresh state
during the winter months and the quality is all
that can be desired. — W. S.

Dwarf Erfurt Cauliflower.— Of late years
there have been many selections from this variety,
and where it can be obtained true it is one of the
best Cauliflowers ever sent out. It is a favourite
variety on the Continent. I have grown the
true type for some time, and it is well worth a
trial by those who require early Cauliflowers
of good quality. It is larger than Snowball, but
when sown in heat it is nearly as early. I prefer
to sow it in autumn and winter in frames or pots,
as then the produce is finer than from plants raised
in heat earl}7 in the year. This variety is of very
dwarf growth, having a short leg or stem and
broad, thick leaves, with a close, hard, white curd
of splendid flavour. For later use the Erfurt
Mammoth type is equally good. — W. M.

Huge Onions. — Are Onions 4 lbs. and .5 lbs"
each in weight required ? I think not. Of what
use are such huge bulbs except for exhibition ?
The varieties Mr. Crews names are comparatively
new, such as Ailsa Craig, Rousham Park, and the
quite new to me New Mammoth Pompeii. I ven-
ture to think we can do without the last-named,
as Onions 5 lbs. in weight will serve no useful
purpose: these monstrosities should not be en-
couraged. I am not finding fault with these
growers for improving the culture up to a certain
size ; for instance, one dozen weighing 12 lbs. ;
these are large enough for all purposes, as they
may in time oust the Spanish Onions so largely
imported into this country, and are, if not too
coarse, useful as a winter vegetable. By growing
to such dimensions as stated at p. 41 I fail to see
their value, for I am sure such will never pay when
the cost of production is taken into account.
These huge bulbs will not pay the market grower.
For shop windows or for exhibition exorbitant
prices may be obtained for these huge Onions.

102

THE GARDEN.

[February 9, 1895.

For sound, well-ripened large Onions there is a
demand. Many of the older kinds, such as White
Spanish, may be grown to a very large size with
special cultivation. Some of the newer kinds
may be termed good selections of the old. I am
pleased to see this improvement in their culture,
but we do not want coarseness. A few years ago
the Tomato was taken in hand, and we had fruits
2 lbs. to 3 lbs. in weight, but they were useless,
being flavourless and not at all freely produced. —

GROWER.

Stove and Greenhouse.

FINE-FOLIAGED PLANTS FOR

DECORATION.

The demand for these seems to be ever on the
increase, and gardeners are often put to serious
straits to know how to provide a sufficient quan-
tity for that purpose, particularly those who have
only a limited amount of glass at their disposal to
work up a stock. Where this has to be accom-
plished, it will be necessary to commence propa-
gation as soon as possible. There are many
plants with light graceful foliage that are well
adapted for such work, and if these are taken in
hand now, a good stock may be obtained by the
time they are required for use. Plants of a hardy
and half-hardy nature having light graceful foli-
age are numerous, while others of a dwarf com-
pact habit render them most desirable adjuncts
for edgings or covering pots, and those of a
trailing habit are indispensable for mantel-pieces,
slabs, &c. Carex riparia variegata, Dactylis
glomerata, D. elegantissima aurea, Phalaris arun-
dinacea elegantissima, and Molinia crerulea varie-
gata may now be divided and potted into various
sized pots, according to the strength of the plants
and the purpose to which they are intended to be
put. Eulalia japonica gracillima, E. variegata,
and E. zebrina, all very useful plants for furnishing
rooms, should now be divided, and after being
potted in a light rich mixture ought to be started
in a gentle heat to induce them to throw up their
slender Grass-like foliage, which when young is
very pleasing. There are also several of the Bam-
boos very useful for this work, more especially those
with small leaves and compact habit, such as Arun-
dinaria falcata, A. Fortunei, and A. Fortunei aurea,
all of which are readily propagated by division.
Among the Grasses that are more tender will be
found Panicum variegatum, easily grown in heat
from cuttings. About half a dozen should be put
into a 3-inch pot, filled with light sandy loam.
When rooted the tops should be cut off in order
to make the plants break close to the pots. Carex
europaja, a light, graceful species, with narrow,
variegated leaves, is easily propagated by dividing
the roots ; likewise Carex variegata, a dwarf kind.
Curculigo recurva and C. recurva variegata are
readily increased by dividing the roots. Ophio-
pogon Jaburan variegatus, O. spicatus and O.
europa?us are all useful plants. Of Ferns and
Lycopodiums there is a goodly number. Those,
however, with light graceful foliage and easy to
cultivate are the most serviceable, such, for
example, as some of the Adiantums, Pterises,
Lomarias and Davallias. The Selaginellas most
suitable are denticulata, cassia and Wildenovi.

There are also numerous stove and greenhouse
plants, with both plain and variegated foliage,
that are most useful for indoor decoration, all of
which can be grown without much trouble if due
attention be paid to their requirements. Take
the Caladiums, of which there is almost an endless
variety of dwarf compact habit with medium-
sized foliage. The old argyrites must on no
account be despised, as there is no other with the
same striking unique habit. Le Nain Rouge
comes next, after which we may put Marguerite
Gellimer, Martha Laforge, Comte de Germiny,
Ibis Rose, La Lorraine, Isis, Ibis Rouge, Mme.
Leon Say, Mme. J. Box and Mme. Alfred
Magne, all of which have very delicate telling

foliage. Of Crotons there is also a numerous
assortment ; those, however, with long, narrow
foliage are the most useful for this purpose.
Cuttings rooted fn September ought now to
be potted into 5-inch pots in order that
the pots may be well filled with roots before they
are used. Other cuttings should also be put in to
supply plants of suitable size. Aralias, such as
Veitchi and A. gracillima, should be grafted on
A. Chabrieri, which can be easily increased by
cuttings. Dracaenas ought also to be propagated.
To get well-furnished plants quickly, ringing is
the best mode to adopt, but where small plants
are required these are best produced from root
cuttings. Those having narrow foliage are far
preferable, as they are much more graceful.
Pandanus Veitchi is so easily grown, that no place
where there is a quantity of table plants re-
quired should be without a good stock of it. The
smaller the young onsets are taken the better, as
such make the best furnished plants. Phrynium
variegatum is another plant useful for this
purpose, and is easily propagated by dividing the
thick fleshy underground rhizomes just as the
plants commence to grow. Pilea muscosa nana,
Pellionia Daveauiana and P. pulchra are also well
adapted for mantel-pieces, hanging baskets, &c.
Asparagus plumosus and its varieties are so easily
grown, that no place is complete without a quan-
tity in various-sized pots. They may be propa-
gated either by seed or cuttings. The former
mode is the surest, as with care good plants
may be had in a short time. A quantity of
Myrsiphyllum asparagoides should also be grown,
as it is so useful for supplying greenery of a

may be checked by the use of shallow troughs
made of tin or zinc and fixed round the collar! of
the plants so as to meet and form a circle. These
should then be filled with water, which slug3 and
snails will not face. Of course, the pests will
occasionally find their way up the wall, and, de-
scending the main stems of the plants, reach th?
young growths at the base, but as a rule where
the tins are used very little damage is done. — J. C.

%* The best thing to ward off the attacks of
slugs in the ca96 of the Lapageria is to put a
wide-mouthed lamp glass over the shoot as soon a?
the point can be seen coming through the ground.
—Ed.

Stenotaphrum glabrum. — Among the plants
suitable for forming living edges in the conserva-
tory, of which a good selection is given on page
67, I should be inclined to add Stenotaphrum
glabrum (the Australian Buffalo Grass), which
with only a shallow soil to root in quickly forms
a good edging to a stage, or in any similar
position, and the shoots droop down for a con-
siderable distance, thus doing away with any
stiffness or formality. There is a variety in which
the leaves are more or less striped with creamy
white, but when growing freely it is often liable
to revert to the type. Though generally known
under the specific name of glabrum, according to
the " Dictionary of Gardening " the correct name
is americanum. It may be sometimes met with
in Covent Garden Market, where, under the col-
lective name of Grasses, a varied assortment of
plants are occasionally brought together.— H. P.

light delicate nature. It is quickly raised from
seed or by dividing the roots. Some of the
variegated Vines, such as Vitis heterophylla
striata and heterophylla variegata, also Ampe-
lopsis Veitchi, will be found serviceable in
their turn. Palms form such a considerable
element in this branch of horticulture, that no
place can do without them. There are, however,
some far more useful than others, and it is to
these I wish to draw attention. In my opinion
Rhapis flabelliformis must take a front place,
not that this is one of the most graceful, but
it is one of the easiest to cultivate, for it
may be increased freely by the suckers sent up
from the roots. Then there is its counterpart,
R. flabelliformis variegata, a most desirable
species. Cocos Weddelliana, C. plumosa. C.
flexuosa, and Romanzoffiana are all good. Ke i-
tias of all kinds are very serviceable, as they will
put up with almost any amount of rough treat-
ment, but they should never be taken into the
dwelling-house unless well rooted. Areca Vers-
chaffelti is also a handsome Palm, but on account
of its slow growth it will never become popular.
Geonoma gracilis and G. intermedia, Euterpe
edulis, Thrinax elegans, and some of the Chamie-
doreas are also useful, but, as a rule, those with
large fronds are not serviceable. As most of these
are obtained from seed, it is best to procure them
in a small state and grow them on to the size
required. I must not omit to name one or two of
the most useful plants of all for room decoration,
namely, Aspidistra lurida and its variegated form,
for no plant withstands the heat of a room better
than these. They may be had in all sizes by dividing
plants when small. Then there are the Araucarias,
of which there are several species, all of which are
raised from seed, or may be obtained in small
plants for growing on, Aralia Sieboldi, so quickly
grown from seed and some of the Maples, which
make truly ornamental plants for grouping during
the summer months. Few plants are more pleasing
for room decoration than well-grown specimens
in pots of Acer Negundo variegatum, as its foliage
intermingles well with that of other plants of a
bolder nature. From the above, ample material
in the way of foliage may be found for the largest
establishment. H. C. P.

Slugs and Lapagerias. — In many places,
especially where conservatories are damp and
shaded, the young succulent growths of Lapage-
rias fall a prey to slugs and snails. Their attacks

HOYA CARNOSA.
I have two plants of Hoya carnosa, each 6 feet
high, in 7-inch pots, in which they have been for
three years. I want to pot them into 9-inch pots.
Please tell me the best soil for them to flower in
and the best time to repot them. They look very
healthy now, but have never flowered yet. — G.
Fawler.

*.* The best soil for this plant is peat with a
small proportion only of yellow loam (about one-
sixth). The peat should be full of fibre, so also
should the loam, the finer or dusty particles in
both instances being cast aside, for this plant does
not thrive for any length of time in a close or re-
tentive soil. To the peat and loam should be
added some charcoal broken up to about the size
of nuts, or in lieu thereof some clean broken pot-
sherds would be a good substitute, the object in
either case being to aid in keeping the soil porous.
Silver sand also should be freely added. In pot-
ting take particular care to pot firmly, as by so do-
ing the soil will remain much longer in a condition
favourable to healthy root-action. For a time
after potting some considerable care should be
taken in the watering so as not to sour the new
soil. At no time is Hoya carnosa a moisture-
loving plant as compared with the average run of
plants. Before it is watered it should be seen
that the soil is fairly on the dry side. The ex-
treme of drought should of course be avoided. The
leaves should not at any time become soft or
flaccid. Rather more water will be required when
new growth is being made. The plants in ques-
tion have not lost any time in respect to flowering ;
they may not possibly do so this year, even under
the best of treatment. A sunny, warm position
from the spring onwards will do much to en-
courage flowering. As young growth proceeds do
not tie the shoots to the older wood, but allow
them either to trail about or train them upwards
on small strings. In potting be careful to use
clean or new pots, also drain the pots liberally.
Having two plants, I would advise, if it be prac-
ticable, that one be planted out, using the same
soil as in potting, only in a considerably rougher
state. Under this treatment the plant would, if
favourably circumstanced, grow more freely, and
in all probability flower sooner if not eventually
so profusely. A large border would not be needed,
but this and many other plants enjoy an extended
root-run. Hoya carnosa is a very good plant for
training on a wall ; grown thus, if the wall be a

February 9, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

103

little damp, it will, Ivy-like, root into the wall. It
has a tendency even to throw out these roots
under pot culture. When the flower • trusses
eventually appear, do not cut them, for the
fame trusses will go on flowering continuously for
several years at least once and often twice the
same season ; thus it will be seen that cutting the
trusses robs the plant of much of its beauty. —
Plantsmak.

SOFT-WOODED WINTER-FLOWERING
PLANTS.
These are now grown very largely, few places of
any size being without one or more small span-
roofed houses specially adapted to their culture.
These being kept at a minimum of 50°, are very gay
for some three or four months through the dullest
time of the year. It is impossible to dwell on all
the good things available for the purpose, but
there are two or three worth noting at this par-
ticular time, as the season for their propagation
for another winter is now fast approaching. Zonal
Pelargoniums are among the best winter plants.
They should be struck singly in small pots and
shifted on twice, using at the final potting a stiff
holding compost that will be conducive to firm,
short-jointed growth, and potting firmly as for
Strawberries. I have tried many varieties, but
can find nothing better than such old favourites
as Raspail, Guillion Mangilli, Constance and
Queen of the Belgians. In fact, I look upon these
in their respective colours as the best winter-
flowering varieties in cultivation. If any corre-
spondents have found anything better, perhaps
they will kindly name the varieties. Raspail
Improved hardly comes up to its name with me —
a larger truss, but the growth is coarse and
straggling. The summer quarters of these Pelar-
goniums and other plants intended for winter work
are pits from which Potatoes have been cleared.
They stand here on a bed of ashes close up to the
glass, get plenty of air day and night, and are
lightly shaded during very hot weather. Of the
two Libonias, L penrhosiensis is much the better;
indeed, it is of its size about the best winter-
flowering plant grown. It has been a dense mass
of flower for the last two months. I find plants
in 4-inch pots come in very handy for house
decoration. They are used in connection with
Ferns for grouping round large Palms, Dracaenas,
&c. This Libonia is struck with the Pelar-
goniums and pottxl finally in a similar compost.
A few of the old winter Begonias, as fuchsioides,
Carrieri and Knowsleyana, can also be st ruck at the
same time and a few plants of Eupatorium
riparium. The branching flower-heads of the
latter look well associated with scarlet and pink
Pelargoniums. A batch of Primula obconica, if
propagated by division, may find a place with the
above-named plants, and with them through the
winter months batches of Freesias, Cyclamens
and Bouvardias. E. Burrell.

Iris reticulata for pots.— This is a splendid bulb
fur pots. Last September I potted up some fifty bulbs
iato JJ-inch and 6-inch pots, placing tliem in the open.
Id December they were removed into a greenhouse,
and now at the end of January they are in full bloom.
If these bulbs are taken care of when out of bloom
they will flower again next year. — J. C. F.

Monocheetum sericeum multiflorum. — In

a warm greenhouse this is just now in flower, and
a pretty little plant it is. It forms a freely
branched bushy specimen, clothed with oblong-
fhaped leaves, while the flowers, which are each
about a couple of inches in diameter, are of a very
pleasing shade of purplish mauve. This Mono-
chcetum is very free-flowering, and at this season
of the year its bright-coloured blossoms are espe-
cially welcome. Much the same might be said of
M. Lemoinianum, except that the flowers are of
a deep rose tint. These Monocha;tums need a soil
principally composed of sandy peat, and too much
atmospheric moisture during the winter is very
injuiious to them. The Monochaetums are nearly
related to the Pleromas and Lasiandras, which

include among their number some most beautiful
flowering plants for the greenhouse. Lasiandra
macrantha, with its rich purple blossoms, is well
known, while Pleroma elegans, at one time popu
lar, is now rarely seen. It is difficult to main-
tain in a thriving state, but so beautiful as to be
well worth a little extra care and attention. It
forms a rather upright, but free'y branching
shrub, said to reach a height of 5 feet, though it
will bloom when much smaller than this. The
flowers, which are 2 inches across and of a rich
bluish purple, are borne freely at the points of
the shoots during the summer months. All the
above are natives of the Andean region of South
America. — T.

Tuberous Begonias.— Although these showy
flowers growwith much freedom when they have got
good hold of the soil, it not unfrequently happens
that a percentage of the tubers fail to start when
potted. When looking through Mrs. Harrison's
garden at Weybridge in the early spring of last
year I noticed that the whole stock of Begonia
tubers was laid out on cocoa fibre fully exposed to
the light. They were just pushing out new
growths, and it appeared that they were starting
very regularly and strongly. Mr. (ilyde, the
gardener there, told me that he makes it a rule
to treat the tubers in this way. When they are
potted at once they are liable, no matter how
carefully the watering may have been done, to
become too wet before new roots are formed, in
which case the tubers will often rot away. If laid
out in the manner above mentioned they can be
frequently looked over and any signs of decay will
be easily perceived and can "be promptly dealt
with.— J. C. B.

The dropping of buds of Camellias. My

observation of this occurrence, as well a? my past
experience in cultivating the plant, have led me to
believe that the main cause of Camellias dropping
their buds is dryness at the roots, though I am
aware that excessive moisture, especially if the
soil be a sour one, and therefore unsuitable, is
also a cause of buds dropping. It is in the
months of January and February that so many
failures of this kind are experienced. Not long
since I was looking over the collection of a suc-
cessful cultivator who has a number of finely
grown plants coming into bloom, and he stated
that in his opinion the prime cause of failure with
amateurs is that they cannot or do not give the
plants the attention as to air and watering they
require at this season of the year, especially as
as to watering, as they become drier at the roots
than they suppose, and when they water give
just as much as the pot will hold, which is often
not enough under the circumstances. The ad-
vice this grower gave is that the supply of water
should be enough to keep the soil in the pots
nicely damp, and no more, and to provide as far
as possible an equable temperature. — R. D.

CROTONS IN SMALL POTS.
The value of well-grown plants in 5-inch or 6-inch
pots of the long, narrow-leaved and brilliantly
coloured Crotons is well known. I have a whole
house devoted to Crotons for house decoration,
and grow them in two batches ; the two-year-old
plants after providing the cuttings for the season's
batch are thrown away. The present is a good
season for propagating. In taking off the cut-
tings use only well-formed shoots, as if small
pieces are used with the foliage mostly gone it is
impossible to secure well-furnished small plants.
Sponge each cutting carefully in case there be any
insects. Each cutting should be placed singly
in a 2£-inch pot, plunging afterwards in cocoa-nut
fibre refuse in the frame, where if kept close and
fairly moist, also shaded from strong sun, roots
will quickly form. Large well-developed tops are
best notched and covered over with Moss so as to
form roots before being detached. In these cases
directly the Moss is fairly permeated with roots,
the tops must be cut off and potted, afterwards
plunging them in the frame to become established.
After the cuttings are rooted stand them out in

the'body of the house previous to repotting them.
The best results are obtained by repotting
direct into 5.\-inch pots, this being a useful size
for decoration. The best soil is equal parts of
loam, peat, and leaf soil, the loam being rough.
Add also crushed charcoal, coarse sand, and a
little artificial manure. Pot the plants firmly,
standing each well apart from the other. Direct
light being so essential for the plants' perfect de-
velopment, it is an excellent plan, other room not
being available, to suspend each plant under the
glass roof, as in this position the most perfect
colouring is developed. This may be carried out
in quite large houses without interfering with
the other occupants. Keep the roots regularly
supplied with moisture, also syringe freely twic3
a day, using in each case tepid soft or rain water.
Dryness at the roots will soon cause an attack of
thrips cr red spider. I do not care to water with
liquid manure at any time, but if a stimulant is
needed use some proven artificial manure. Well
prepared soot water may also be used with advan-
tage. A. Young.

Chrysanthemums.

GOOD JANUARY CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

Varieties in any section that flower friely
during the first month of the year are especially
valuable. It is an easy matter now-a-days with
the abundance of Japanese varieties that thsre
are to have plenty of bloom early in December
as well as through the two previous mouth-1,
but for January flowering the case is different,
and any that are especially adapted for this
purpose deserve to be universally know).
With this object I have made a note of all that
have come under my notice, especially during
the current season. Fortunately, now-a-days
we are not tied hard and fast to one or two
colours— white and palo pink — as was the case
a few years since. Much more of a choice is
now available, as varieties with rich colouring
as well as those of a deep yellow tone are not
wanting. No doub'. pure white-flowerel sorts
are the more useful. Undoubtedly the pridj
of place in this section of colour belongs to

L. CANNING, introduced by Craig in 1S83
Early blooms exhibit a trace of ivory in the
colour, but those from late buds are of the purest
white. When first introduced I thought it would
take a high position as an exhibition variety, but,
unfortunately, it has a peculiar knack of going
" blind " at a critical time —bud formation. This
defect hampers its chance of ever becoming a
show bloom. As we have abundance of white-
flowered sorts for the exhibition table, the loss of
this is not felt, but it is an assured gain as a
useful variety for late use. Plants carrying from
thirty to fifty well -developed, medium -sized
blooms are valuable early in January for decora-
tion apart frcm their value in supplying material
for cutting. Being naturally dwarf in habit, it is
better fitted for conservatory use.

M. E. A. Carriere is one of Delaux's 1889 in-
troductions. As an exhibition flower it is some-
times seen in splendid condition, but cannot be
depended upon. As a late-flowering variety it is
really grand, especially when allowed to grow
away uninterruptedly from the cutting stage, not
interfering with its growth in the matter of topping
of the shoots more than once, that being done when
the plants are 5 inches high. By growing this
sort afterwards upon the let-alone principle, re-
moving what is known as the crown bud and run-
ning the growth on to produce terminal buds,
abundance of flower is obtained with stems from
1 foot to 2 feet in length. After these main
blooms are cut lots of smaller ones develop from
the side shoots, and for wreath-making these are
especially useful. When the earliest formed
blooms bsgin to open they exhibit a distinct trace
of creamy white, tinted with blush, but this

104

THE GARDEN

[February 9, 1895.

gradually passes away with age, leaving the fully
expanded blossoms pure white. All smaller
flowers afterwards are white from the commence-
ment.

Leon Frache is very similar in its colour when
the early blooms begin to expand, but with age
they alto change to pure white. In growth it is
vigorous and quite erect, giving serviceable mate-
rial for the filling of tall vases. The bark has a
peculiar red tinge, contrasting strongly with its
deep green leaves.

Princess May, introduced by Agate in 1S92, is
another pure white-flowered variety that deserves
attention. The growth is robust, the blooms
large, with long thread-like petals, which seem to
open exceedingly well at the end of December and
early in January.

Mlle. Therese Rev is not only one of the
finest of the white-flowered ordinary November-
blooming kinds we have, but it gives a quantity
of late produce from side growths, which spring
freely from the main stems after removing the
points where the large blooms have been growing.

Pelican is a much older varietv, being one of a
batch sent out by Boucharlat in 1885. At all times
tre blooms are pure white, the incurving florets
slit at the tips.

Eugene Dailledouze arrived in the spring-of
last year from America, and is an accjuisition to
the late-flowering section. The medium-sized
florets incurve neatly while expanding, exhibiting
traces of dull crimson on the reverse side. When
fully expanded the petals recurve, showing a rich
yellow surface.

Charles Buck is an English raised seedling of
medium size, which makes it all the more useful
for decoration. The florets droop gracefully, the
inner ones incurving towards the centre, the
colour a shade of soft yellow.

E. G. Hill is an American raised Japanese in-
curved variety, more valuable as a late-flowering
variety than aught else. The colour, golden yel-
low, is suffused on the reverse with carmine. By
topping the plants twice in their early stages of
growth, the plants run up fully 6 feet highlf the
cuttings are inserted early, as they should be.

Robert Owen is perhaps the finest type of the
incurved Japanese section we have, and as such it
is valuable, but when the virtue of late flowering
is combined it enhances the regard for any sort.
The colour is yellow, suffused with bronze, quite
pleasing and distinct.

Souvenir de Mme. Bullier promises to be-
come quite the best of richly coloured late varie-
ties. The surface colour is best described as a
rich port wine, with just a tinge of plum colour
suffusion ; the reverse is dull red. The narrow
flat florets are blunt at the tip. Growers should
make a note of this for late flowering.

Violet Rose, an incurved Japanese, distinctly
rose in colour, is useful where variety is required.
Full, solid blooms are produced quite late.

Eda Prass, although regarded as a really
good November -flowering kind of the incurved
Japanese type, is also useful for giving flowers in
January. The colour, light salmon-pink, fades to
blush. All of the above belong to the Japanese
section.

Guernsey Sunset, a single-flowered variety, is
extremely useful, giving a quantity of useful
flowers m the early part of January. The florets
are yellow with a bronzy suffusion.

Henry Perkins was'fiist sent out as a Chinese
or incurved variety, but it has since been rele-
gated to the incurved section of Japanese, to
which it rightly belongs. As a late-floweiing
Eort it is useful to those who care for these dull-
coloured types. In colour it is bronze, shaded
with rosy chocolate. Neatly incurved blooms can
be had quite as late as the third week in January.

E. MOLYNEUX.

Chrysanthemum W. H. Lincoln. —This

Chrysanthemum is without doubt— as " J. C B "
(p. f 0) and Mr. J. C. Tallack (p. 58) say-exceed-
ingly valuable for late bloom, though I should
not have thought that it was neceeeary to disbud

the variety to the extent advocated by the latter
writer, if at all. I have in my mind a plant that
was produced from an old stool which was put in
the open ground in February, IS94. This was left
absolutely untouched from the time it was planted
out till it was taken up and potted in an Hi-inch
pot in October, when it was brought into a late
Peach house. Nine stems rose from the soil, which
stems divided into eighteen, and then again into
forty-eight, producing that number of flowers,
which averaged 3J inches in diameter. The
blooms were cut on December 24 and remained
fresh till after January 1. A few days before the
flowers were cut a nurseryman offered 4s. for the
plant as it stood. If a few hundred such plants
could be potted and housed in the autumn and
succeeded equally well, this Chrysanthemum
should prove a veritable gold mine to the market
grower. Of course the instance I refer to was
but a solitary one, and I am aware that too much
reliance should not be placed on what might prove
merely one of those exceptions that prove a rule.
Still the fact remains that in one case this variety
has done its own stopping and disbudding very
satisfactorily. The centre bloom on each shoot
seemed to monopolise the sap to such an extent,
that the others either refused to swell at all, or
developed into small, mis-shapen blooms, showing
but a dozen or so yellow petals. The total
height of the plant did not exceed 2 feet 3 inches
from the pots. — S. W. F.

Chrysanthemums Boule de Neige and
Ethel. — In the notes on Chrysanthemums at page
58, Mr. J. C. Tallack, in speaking of Boule de
Neige, says, " the flowers are pure white, and re-
mind me very forcibly of those of Ethel, which it
greatly resembles," &c. Does not this sound
somewhat strange, seeing that Boule de Neige be-
longs to the hybrid pompon class, while Ethel
most certainly belongs to the Japanese section.
Moreover, the former hasshort, blunt, and rounded
petals, while the latter has much longer petals
distinctly and acutely pointed, and in these
respects the kinds named are perhaps two of the
most distinct. In habit, generally, they are
equally dissimilar, the one dwarf and bushy, the
other tall and erect. Apart from both kinds
having white flowers, I only know one point — and
that a bad one- -in which both are alike, namely,
that of showing a black centre much too fre-
quently. But there is really very little need to
grow either of these kinds in the future, while we
have others vastly superior in their flowers and
equally late in flowering. I refer specially to
Lady Lawrence and L. Canning. Like Mr. Tal-
lack, I had a doubt about the freedom of the latter
when it began to expand, but now I have little
fear that with stronger cuttings another season it
will be all right. The season of 1894 was not re-
markable for sun heat, and I am of opinion that
the very late kinds of Chrysanthemums especially
suffered in consequence. — E. J.

Chrysanthemum catalogue.— In the last-
issued supplement to the centenary edition of the
catalogue of the National Chrysanthemum Society
there are some errors, which, when the catalogue
is entirely revised, as hoped for in the preface to
the supplement in question, will need correction.
In the first place I note the date of the incurved
variety Lucy Kendall is given as 1893, and John
Shrimpton and William Seward as 1892. Now,
as a matter of fact, the three varieties were first
exhibited in the autumn of 1892, and were all dis-
tributed in the spring of 1893, so that whether
the date be taken from the time of their receiving
a certificate, or when they are first sent out, there
is a mistake somewhere. Beauty of Castlewood
(Spaulding), 1S92, is al-:o an error, as it was
catalogued by Mr. Cannell in 1890, and received
a first-class certificate from the National Chry-
tanthemum Society in the autumn of [that year.
Mr. Cannell is credited with the Japanese in-
curved William Tricker, but that is of American
origin, and so described in his catalogue. Of the
large Anemones, Cincinnati (Cannell), 1S86, was
one of many others sent to this country from
America in 1885. This was, I think, the first
large consignment of new Chrysanthemums from

across the Atlantic. Besides the variety Cincin-
nati, we received from America nearly sixty
varieties, some of which were popular for a time,
but have since given way to newer forms. Among
the most notable of the 1885 varieties were — of
Japanese — Bicolor, Fimbriatum, Gloriosum, Hon.
John Welsh, Mrs. William Mencke, Snowstorm,
Syringa, Gorgeous, Moonlight, Mrs. C. W.Wheeler,
and Samuel Henshaw. Mrs. James R. Pitcher,
valuable as an early flowering variety, also came
at the same time. There were also several single-
flowered forms, one of which — Mrs. A. le Moult —
has been within the last year or two more than
once noted in The Garden. The Anemone varie-
ties consisted of four, there being, besides Cincin-
nati, Agnes Hamilton, Metrimac, and Wyoming.
— T.

Chrysanthemum Sceur Melan ie. — This pom-
pon variety was introduced by Lebois as far back
as 1869, and no better kind really exists when we
consider the freedom with which its blossoms are
produced and their purity. I know of no Chry-
santhemum that makes a better pot plant than
this, and its buds open simultaneously. For
cutting it is a decided gain to have all of its
flowers fully developed af the same moment.
There is not the waste then as with some sorts that
just open the centre flower of the bunch, the re-
mainder staying so long dormant as to spoil many
unopened blossoms if cut with a long stalk. It is
a good kind to grow as an edging to groups of
Chrysanthemums in pots in public gardens, where
oftentimes the leafless stems of the front row plants
are an eyesore. The plant retains its foliage
until the flowers are cut or faded- As an out-of-
door variety it is cjuite one of the best, flowering
not only profusely, but quite early, thus escaping
to a great extent the early winter frosts which do
so much toward making this aspect of Chrysan-
themum culture a failure. Plants smothered with
flowers can be had either 2 feet or 4 feet high.
The finest batch of the latter class I ever saw was
last November in the Pilrig Nurseries of Messrs.
R. B. Laird, Edinburgh. Fully two hundred
plants were blooming in great profusion, the
flowers being found useful for cutting. — E. M.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS WITH A SINGLE

STEM.
I have some 300 Japanese and incurved Chrysan-
themums, the cuttings having been struck las'1
December. I wish to grow them on with one
single stem until the natural break, say in Mai i
June, or even July, and thus carry on three shoots
only. The only fear I have is that they will not
show a bud in May, June, or Jul}', and thus will
continue to have only the single stem. If this is
so, the said stems will grow too high and I shall
only have one flower on each plant. I have for
some years cut them all down early in May and
allowed three stems to grow, and they have aver-
aged in height from 3 feet to 5 feet. The Ja-
panese blooms have been grand, but the incurved
have always been wide and loose. I desire them
all to flower in November. I have good convenience
to house them all. — E. Johnson.

%* You need have no fear that your plants
raised from cuttings inserted as early as the
middle of December will not show the first bud
early enough to provide three shoots to each.
Many of the varieties will make their first natural
break in April, others later. We often hear com-
plaints about plants not making the natural
breaks in their growth sufficiently early to admit
of their forming flower-buds at the right moment.
In searching for the cause it is generally found
that the cuttings were not taken until the
middle of February. Late propagation does not
admit of sufficient time for the various stages of
growth being made at the right period. It is
not possible to obtain first-class blooms from plants
that are not thoroughly matured. Nothing but a
long season of steady uninterrupted growth will
mature the plants. Especially is the want of
maturity of the wood felt in the incurved sec-
tion, where solidity of petal and fulness in the

Ffbkuart 9, 1895.]

centre are more important than in the case" of Ja-
panese blooms. Plants of the latter section give
really good results when treated on the cutting-
down principle for decoration, but seldom can the
blooms be compared to those produced by plants
growing in a more natural manner. When the
decoration of the conservatory or dwelling house
is what the plants are most needed for, then the
lack of quality in all its essential points is not so
noticeable as in the case of exhibition blooms. —
E. Molyneux.

THE GARDEN.

105 1

GENEVAN PLANT PROTECTION SOCIETY.

I must ask to be allowed to send a few more
words to you on behalf of my old friend,
M. Correvon. I have just now received a long
letter from him, and he puts the whole matter
in the clearest possible light. He simply says
about Eritrichium nanum, " I defy Mr. Leonard
to prove his assertion." The word of an honest
man and that about some practice of his own
ought certainly to be enough. But there are two
or three very important points in the long com-
munication I have received which possibly may be
quite new to Mr. Leonard, and which may lead
him to think twice before he accuses another person
so roundly.

1. According to M. Correvon, he has oversight of
two separate gardens which are managed in
different ways, whose objects and surroundings
are quite different, and where no comparison of
one with the other should be made. The first
may be said to exist on public and scientific
grounds. The second is a private adventure, and
where a regular business is carried on I can see no
reason in the world why the same man should not
be at the helm in both cases. Nor do I suppose
that anyone else would object to it, and this ap-
plies also to the society for protecting alpine
plants. But the bearing of all this on the contro-
versy in question is very great indeed. M.
Correvon says : " We have founded in the Alps of
Valais, the garden of the Linna?a, for which the
Swiss Government gives meallocation. Thatgarden
does not trade at all. It is a conservatory of the
alpine Swiss flora, and we took it, as it is
situated 1700 metres in the Alps, and it is allowed
to us because the plants succeed all very good
there — living plants, &c." What he means is
clearly this : It is not murder to take up a large
plant of Eritrichium nanum and transfer it from
one alpine height to another, because under con-
ditions of this sort the plant will not be wasted,
but will prosper abundantly ; secondly, it is not
done for any purpose of private gain ; and thirdly,
it is a matter which is recognised and allowed by
the Government under which he lives. The
mountains arenot denuded in the least. M. Correvon
only tries to focus in one spot a few of the
treasures with which they are clothed, and he acts
quite openly about the matter, having obtained
the imprimatur of the authorities under whom he
is living.

But (•!) with regard to articles of commerce he
denies explicitly that any rare and prohibited
plants are ever torn by him from the mountains
at all. In the first place, he believes that such a
proceeding would have no chance of succeeding —
the plants would be sure to die — and in the second
he is under engagement to take a very different
course ; and he challenges anyone to adduce the
smallest semblance of proof that he has not been
true to his colours.

3. Itshould benoted thata list of protected plants
is always given by the society which M. Corre-
von represents, and that nothing else is regarded.
His words are these : " We would not take the
engagement of not rooting up common plants.''
To attack him for touching common plants is very
much the same thing as though fault were to be
found here with the removal of a Primrose or Daisy,
while the few remaining haunts in this country of
Gentiana verna or Cypripedium Calceolus are
jealously guarded.

4. He seems very much to regret that quite
recently in last year the Swiss Alpine Club took

the decision, as he calls it, of sending an appeal
to each Swiss cantonal government to ask them
to make laws defendant exprewemtnt the up-
rooting of any plants at all, and he regrets that
it passed. The minority, of which he was a lead-
ing member, considered that a law of such a
drastic and sweeping sort as that would defeat its
own purpose in the end, and that some rare and
very interesting plants would suffer from the mea-
sure which was meant to preserve them. But so
long as things stand as they are, a perfectly new
condition has been introduced into all this affair.

It is difficult to believe that Mr. T. Smith, of
Newry, was serious in what he said to you on
Saturday last. By this morning's post a letter
came to me from one of the highest authorities of
the day in matters of this sort. One sentence in
it ran thus: "Speaking generally, I agree with
you that seedlings properly managed (i.e.,
from thinly-sown seed and pricked off at the
best time) give better results than disrooted
plants from their native habitats," and M.
Correvon very pertinently says in his letter
to me, " If Mr. Smith can find in the Alps any
young plant of Azalea procumbens to be able to
be planted in a pot, I will be astonished." Mr.
Smith seems to me to be conscious of the weak-
ness of his case when he says about imported
plants, " Of course, they require some care to be
established," and I regard him as throwing it all
away when I read such a sentence as that. Not
only do many imported plants require "some
care," but they very often cannot be established
at all, when seedlings answer quite well. — H.
Ewhank, St. John's Vicarage, ftyde, Ixle of Wight.

%* Our readers are tired of this discussion ; so
are we. M. Correvon sends us a few pages in
French as an answer to Mr. Leonard, but does
not in them mention The Garden as the journal
in which the discussion appeared, and also omits to
state that himself and his friends had the same op-
portunities of giving their views as Mr. Leonard
had. We can publish no more notes on this matter.
— W. R.

Notes of the Week.

Cattleya Trianse. — The varieties of Cattleya
Triatni' are already making a fine show in col-
lections, as C. Percivaliana is going out. Large
importations of the former species are now
being sent over and sold. Some truly fine speci-
mens are now to be obtained from the dealers in
these plants, and the probability of good varieties
being amongst them makes their flowering very
interesting to amateurs. — J. O.

Skimmia oblata Foremani. — How seldom
do we see this shrub made use of for winter
decoration. In sandy soil, where it grows and
berries freely, it is a simple matter to pot up the
plants as required in the autumn. This variety
appears to be a slight advance upon the type, the
berries being somewhat larger and the colour, if
anything, richer. At the late Edinburgh Chry-
santhemum show a group of thickly berried plants
of this Skimmia was very attractive. — E. M.

Colour in Ivies. — I planted the north side of
the house here with Ivies {the sun never catches
it, through hills east and west shutting all chance
out). The leaves of the Irish Ivy assume that
beautiful bronze we never get in a south aspect, and
a golden-leaved variety improves in colour year
after year. Honeysuckles intermixed flower most
profusely.and Ampelopsis Hoggi growing amongst
these shows a marvellous bit of colour in autumn.
— George Bolas, Hopton Hall, Derby.

Pear Glou Morceau. — With me on a strong
soil this Pear (figured in last issue) is not a success,
although grown as a cordon against a wall. In
my case the roots are kept as near the surface as
possible. The trees make good growth, but the
fruit does not ripen sufficiently well to encourage
me to plant it freely. Bush trees growing in the
open were a complete failure, and were cut down
to make room for something more profitable. This '

is a grand Pear on warmer soils, but on heavy soil
it is not so. — E. M.

Puschkinia scilloides. — It would seem as if
the most essential thing for this little gem of
spring bulbs is a place where there are no slugs.
They are certainly extremely fond of it. I know
one who gave up trying to grow it because
deformed and mutilated flowers were all that ever
appeared. A short time back before the snow
came I went to examine a border of spring bulbs
to see if any were peeping through, and found
that the points of this bulb were above the sur-
face, and scarcely one had escaped injury from
slugs. — A. H.

Dendrobium luteolum.— The pale yellow
flowers of this species are not usually very attrac-
tive, but a large well-flowered plant in Messrs.
Veitch's nursery showed its value for decoration.
These distinct yellow-tinted forms are useful for
hybridising. No one could have supposed that
such beautiful garden varieties as D. Ainswoithi,
D. Leechianum, D. splendidissimum, D. Schneidtr-
ianum, &c. , could have been produced from such
a poor grower and rather mediocre-looking species
as D. aureum (syn., heterocarpum). — J. D.

Christmas Roses. — I am disposed to think
that many failures with these arise from start-
ing with large plants at first, particularly if they
have been, as I have frequently seen them, washed
clear of all soil. It is difficult to get the mould
back into all the interstices when planting, and
decay sets in as a matter of course. With small
plants it is otherwise. The roots can be spread
out so that all are in contact with the soil, and
the plants soon become established. Given smal
plants and a well-drained loam, I think fewer
failures would occur.— T. J. Weaver, Crouch End.

Manettia bicolor.— I was much interested in
the note on Manettia bicolor in a recent issue of
The Garden. Its peculiar tubular flowers, of a
waxy consistency and of a beautiful scarlet shade
with yellow tips, on stalks some 3 inches in length,
render it invaluable for button-holes. It can be
grown either trained balloon fashion in pots of
any size, from 4,j inches upwards, or on wires
under glass. Ordinary greenhouse treatment
will suffice. Some plants I lately saw have been
in bloom since the end of May until the present
time, and look as if they would continue flowering
for some time yet. — P. G. Bartrum, Tooting.

Tree Peeonies in pots. — A plant of that
lovely Tree P;eony Peine Elizabeth, growing in a
pot and already bearing several fine flowers,
suggests one certain way of fully enjoying the
great beauty of this and other kinds. As yet
none of them are common or very popular in
gardens, which is surprising considering the siza
and gorgeous beauty of their flowers. They are
slow-growing things, but, all the same, bloom
well enough in a young state, and under glass
retain their fine form and purity of colour un-
marred by any inclemency of weather, such as
too often prevails at the time of their flowering
in the open air. — A. H.

Saccolabium Harrisonianum. — This beau-
tiful white, deliciously-fragrant form of S. vio-
laceum is now in flower. I bought plants of it,
many years ago for S. giganteum, from which it
does not differ much. They are both sweetly
scented. S. giganteum is much larger in all its
parts, and the flowers of giganteum are purplish
spotted on a white ground. S. violaceum is quite
common in the Philippine Islands, while S. gigan-
teum is a Burmese species. The plant is found
in great profusion and luxuriance on trees in a
deciduous jungle, exposed to the rays of a tropical
sun, and in most cases with its leaves scorched.
We do not want to see the leaves scorched in our
collections ; therefore the plants are carefully
shaded. The plants succeed admirably in the
warmest house if given clean drainage with an
inch in depth of freshly-gathered Sphagnum Moss
mixed with the drainage. — J. D.

Chinese Primulas. — Messrs. Stuart and Co.,
Coven t Garden, send us a collection of their Primula
blooms from plants that have been grown at Nice.

10G

THE GARDEN

[Fbbkdary 9, 1895.

The blooms came to us as fresh as if newly picked,
the colours being well preserved in every case.
The flowers, by no means coarse, represent fully the
many varieties now in cultivation. Among the
sorts sent were Chiswick Red, the colour very rich ;
rubro-violaeea, remarkable for the violet shade ;
alba magnifica, a fine flower of good substance;
Fern-leaved white, and many others. One in par-
ticular named Stuart's New Crimson struck us as
being remarkably find. The flowers, of medium
size, were striking, the colour intense crimson,
certainly the brightest we have yet seen. Evi-
dently the finest culture had been bestowed on the
plants, showing that a bright and sunny clime is
needed to bring out to the full the many beautiful
hues that are to be found in the Chinese Primula
of to-day.

Pilurona fragrans.— The flower to hand from
A. Brooker arrived in a very bad condition, but I
should presume it to be of this plant. It is some-
times known as Trichopilia fragrans. This plant
has been known for a considerable number of
years, and has been imported by various firms in
large quantities from New (Jrenada, and as it will
thrive well in a cool temperature, it is very suit-
able for amateurs. It should be potted in fibrous
peat and Sphagnum Moss with a few nodules of
charcoal, and as it will require plenty of water
during the growing season, the drainage must be
good. Raise the plants well up above the rim of
the pot, and whilst at rest the supply of moisture
must be greatly reduced. The flowers of Pilumna
fragrans are very sweetly scented, and borne about
three or four together upon radical peduncles.
The sepals and petals are about equal and
slightly wavy, white, mostly tinged with green ;
the large lip white, stained with orange-yellow at
the base. — G.

Laelia anceps Sanderiana.— This is one of
the most beautiful of the white-petalled forms of
L. anceps. I saw it very beautifully in flower in
Messrs. Veitch's nursery the other day, and it was
equally fine in our own collection. It differs but
little from the celebrated variety Dawsoni, except
that it has less colour on the lip, and the petals
and sepals of Sanderiana are longer in proportion
to their width. The great value of L. anceps and
its varieties consists in their easy culture, and in
the fact that they are always to be depended upon
and keep up their constitutional vigour for any
length of time. The accounts we have received
from some of the collectors of the climatal con-
ditions of their native country conclusively prove
how very hardy they must be. I once marvelled
to see a man turn the hose on to a houseful of
Mexican Lselias in Messrs. Backhouse's nursery at
York on the afternoon of a sunshiny day with no
shade for the plants. It was marvellous to see
how well they looked, but the treatment was very
similar to the natural conditions which obtain in
their native country. —J. Douglas.

Daffodils in pots.— Every lover of Daffodils
likes to have them for as long a season as possible,
and since they are so amenable to pot culture and
lnse none of their charming grace and beauty
when grown in this way, it is surprising one
does not see them in pots more often. Hard
forcing they do not like, but they can be brought
on gradually to flower some weeks in advance of
those outside, and most welcome they are. I
have just called upon a neighbour whose green-
house is quite gay with them, making a pretty
display at small cost of labour and fuel, for he
has done little more than keep the frost out.
Among the kinds in bloom I noted pallidus
precox, Countess of Annesley, Sir Watkin,
Duchesse de Brabant, ornatus, and Leedsi, white
and yellow types. Many more kinds will be open in
a few days. There is not much trouble and little
outlay involved in the pot culture of these bulbs.
A few kinds, notably Sir Watkin, continue to
flower freely, although kept in pots two or three
years in succession, but there are exceptions, and
the general rule for safe guidance should be to
give the bulbs one year in the open ground and
one year in pots. With a piece of reserve ground
for the purpose this is a simple and easy matter.

They amply repay the trouble, and are doubly
welcome in a season like this, for the snow lies
deep and the spring flowers will be later in conse-
quence.— A. H.

Eranthemum pulchellum. — There is no

flower that provides such a striking shade of blue
in the stove at this season of the year as the above.
Blue is a scarce colour in winter, and the full rich
tone — almost gentian-blue— of the blooms always
attracts attention. The plant, which is a native
of the East Indies, is easily propagated. Cuttings
of the young growth taken in the spring root very
quickly in sandy soil if kept close, and by the
winter, with a little judicious stopping, make good
plants bearing many panicles of bloom. Autumn-
struck cuttings in small pots, if well treated, pro-
duce handsome flower spikes and look well asso-
ciated with the giant strain of white Cyclamen,
which can be flowered well in heat during
February. Eranthemums are sometimes grown
in frames during the summer, and where constant
attention cannot be given to keeping the atmo-
sphere charged with moisture this is doubtless a
good plan. Hot-house treatment when rationally
carried out is, however, the most conducive to
success. Plenty of water, both in syringing and
in damping floors and stages, should be used, or
red spider will make its appearance. Care should
be taken to ventilate but sparingly, as this Eran-
themum is impatient of draughts and does best in
a somewhat close atmosphere. Liquid manure
may be used with good results, especially as re-
gards the older batch of plants. Unfortunately,
the flowers drop as soon as cut, and are therefore
useless for decoration. — S. W. F.

Oncidium tigrinum and O. splendidum.—
I saw the other day the two Orchids above named
beautifully in flower in Messrs. Veitch's nursery
at Chelsea. The one species cannot very well be
mistaken for the other. There is a very good
coloured plate of O. tigrinum in the Magazine of
Botany, vol. xiv., 97, under the name of O. Barkeri.
It was so named by Dr. Lindley in 1841. The
true Oncidium splendidum is figured in the
Botanical Magazine, tab. 5878, as 0. tigrinum
splendidum. They seem to be as species quite
distinct from each other. I find them not so easy
to keep in a good healthy condition, but there is
no doubt that if we could hit the right treatment
they require at different seasons of the year we
would be quite successful with them. They cer-
tainly do best with a Cattleya house temperature,
but most of the Mexican Orchids seem to require
a drier, rather more airy position than the South
American Orchids requiring the same tempera-
ture. They also want a more decided season of
rest, while they can do with a good supply of
water until the bulbs are well developed. 1 have
grown 0. Barkeri of Lindley for many years, and
can look with pleasure on the long branching
spikes for some four or five years after they have
been imported, but it is rather annoying to find
them decrease in size after a time and become
quite small in comparison to what they used to
be. Orchid fanciers who value this beautiful On-
cidium for its sweetness and beauty, and all the
more at this dull season of the year, must pur-
chase a few plants periodically. — J. Douglas.

The weather in West Herts. — The present
frost has now (Wednesday) lasted sixteen days, dur-
ing which period theexposed thermometer has on no
night registered less than 12° of frost, and on nine
of these nights it showed over 22° of frost. The
coldest day as yet was the 6th, when the tempe-
rature in shade never exceeded 25°. During the
preceding night the thermometer in the screen,
and 4 feet above the ground, showed 22° of frost,
while that on the surface of the snow fell 1° below
zero, thus indicating 33° of frost. Both of these
readings are the lowest recorded here since
January S, 1886, when they were in each case 3°
colder. In the screen the temperature on Tues-
day night remained at nearly its lowest point
from 3 a.m. to 8 p.m., or for five hours. Owing
I to the covering of snow the soil temperatures

have not fallen so low as they otherwise would
have done. Up to the present time the frost has,
however, penetrated the ground to the depth of a
foot. For more than a week the direction of the
wind has been some point between north and
east. On the 5th the sun shone brightly for very
nearly seven hours. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

The lfite Mr. William Thomson, of Cloven-
fords.— During the last thirty years it was my
privilege on many occasions to come into contact
with the above-named gentleman, whose loss the
horticultural world is now deploring. In many
respects our departed friend occupied the " pride
of place " as a gardener, and on this ground I
think that some effort should be made to per-
petuate his memory. Another (and perhaps a more
important) reason why I think this suggestion
should be carried out is in consequence of those
higher qualities which our departed friend
possessed in an eminent degree. No one could be
in the company of William Thomson very long
without ccming to the conclusion that he was a
man of integrity and uprightness. There was a
tone, an atmosphere, if I may use the figure, about
him which one inhaled, and so became the better and
stronger. On several occasions I was struck with
his conduct to those under him. He beheld them
as fellow-creatures, and knew that they had as
much right to happiness as himself. Disdainful
looks, proud, snappish, severe speeches, which
some can make use of upon every supposed offence,
were seldom seen or heard from him. From tho
best of principles, therefore, his servants were
bound to serve him — the principle of love. I sin-
cerely trust that someone more capable than my-
self will take this matter up ; if so I will do all in
my power to assist. — Bruce Findlay, Manchester.

I went to stay at a very grand and beautiful
place in the country where the grounds are said
to be laid out with consummate taste. For the
first three or four days I was enchanted. It
seemed so much better than Nature, that I began
to wish the earth had been laid out according to
the latest principles of improvement. In three
days' time I was tired to death ; a Thistle, a heap of
dead bushes, anything that wore the appearance
of accident and want of intention was quite a
relief. I used to escape from the made grounds
and walk upon the adjacent goose common,
where the cart ruts, gravel pits, bumps, coarse
ungentlemanlike Grass, and all the varieties pro-
duced by neglect were a thousand times more
gratifying. — Sydney Smith.

Royal Horticultural Society.— The next
meeting of the R.H.S. will take place in the
Drill Hall, James Street, Westminster, on February
12. The various committees will assemble at noon
as usual, and at 3 o'clock the annual general
meeting of the society will be held in the offices,
117, Victoria Street.

Keeping off rabbits. — Would you kindly in-
form me what mixture is the best to paint young
trees with in a plantation to keep rabbits from
biting them ? — A. P. C.

*,* The best way is to wire the plantation and
endeavour to keep down the rabbits. It is ex-
tremely difficult and unwise to paint every tree in
a large plantation. — Ed.

ThomsoD. — On February 3, Alick, the only
son of W. P. Thomson, of The Garden, died in
his sixth year.

Names of plants. — J. B. — Myrsiphyllum aspara-

goides. Fern.— Nephrolepis exaltata. W. East-

irood. — Odontoglossum crispum, a fine form, and we
should like to see it again when the plant has become

established. R. E. Bayne. — Ordinary form of

Dendrobium Wardianuru.

The Wild Garden : or, the Naturalisation and Natural
Grouping of Haiti y Exotic Plants, with a chapter on the Garden
of British Wild Movers. Fourth edition, vilh wood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged. Lemy
$vo, linen cloth. Price 12s. ; well bound in half morocco, 18s.
Through all booksellers.

THE GAEDEN.

10;

No. 1213. SATURDAY, February 16, 1895. Vol. XLVII

" This is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ;
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

Flower Garden.

but

GLADIOLI IN SCOTLAND.
I have always thought that the somewhat arid
climate on the east side of Scotland is inimical
to the Gladiolus. In Ireland it grows splendidly
and succeeds year after year ; and in the same
way in Ayrshire, where in a few places it is
made a speciality of, it does extra well and the
varieties increase according to their kind. I
have still varieties that were originally purchased
twenty years ago, but the seasons including
and following 1877 cleared out most kinds. The
plants, as a matter of fact, had an insufficient
space of time— considering the nature of the
weather of these years — in which to make and
ripen conns. Ever since then I have started
the corms into growth before planting, and in
this way have secured for them a better grow-
ing season. Last year has proved one of the
worst, as numbers had not finished growing
when frost in October cut them down. It is
doubtful whether the Gladiolus degenerates.
No doubt some kinds, from an inherent weak-
ness of constitution, invariably fail to make
stock, and they slip, as it were, through one's
fingers. Mabel is one of them, so is Fleur de
Lys, as well as Mine. Desportes and Michael
Angelo. But there are many beautiful sorts
that go on increasing year after year, so that it
becomes a matter very much of selection in
order to keep up a garden stock. Writing of
the degeneration of the individual bulb, " Delta"
makes an unaccountable slip. He refers to it
as if decrease in size followed year after year
in the same bulb until it ultimately disappears ;
whereas a new bulb, or, more correctly, a new
corm, annually replaces the old one, and carries
forward the individuality of the plant to another
year. That in the case of certain varieties this
kind of degeneration does occur there is no
reason to doubt, but outside of these are
numbers to which no such term is applicable.
The comparative size of the corms, it may be
said, depends largely on treatment, but in-
fluenced by weather in some degree. If there
is abundant root-growth in conjunction with
strong, healthy foliage, the corms are certain to
be large. However, I have not found that large
conns are any better, if so good, as those of
medium size. They vary, in fact, from year to
year, and if a medium or even a smallish corm
is well ripened, quite as good a spike will result,
though no doubt the number of spikes will be
fewer in the aggregate where the collection em-
braces a large number of plants. As Gladioli
are grown here mainly for cutting, and as it
happens not infrequently that the plants are cut
close to the ground in order that very long spikes
with fobage may be had, it follows that first-
class corms cannot be expected. I have already
noted how well they do on the west coast, but
even here, when the plants receive every atten-
tion, they succeed well. I some years ago pur-
chased for an amateur a selection of good kinds,
to which he annually added a few novelties. In
a few years after commencing their culture he
was obliged to dispose of surplus stock, and did
so for years uutil he left this district. They
were particularly well done, too, being started

under glass, and after planting out protected
from cold and every care taken to preserve the
foliao-e. One of the workmen on the estate
here°who started with a very few also grows
them well. Last year he took at least four
prizes, and I know he purchases none, so that
the spikes he exhibits are bona fi<k home-grown.
Good spikes of Gladioli are so valuable when
cut for furnishing vases, that it is worth while
to study their requirements in order to discover
what treatment suits them in the particular dis-
trict in which one may live. In this way I
tried an old practice of starting the roots pre-
vious to setting them in the soil, and found it
distinctly advantageous. The labour is not
much, for the corms are set as closely as they
can be placed together in ordinary cutting
boxes with a shallow layer of leaf-soil under
them. From this in May they are planted
into the ground and much closer in the lines
than generally advised ; 4 inches apart is the
widest I allow. The beds are raised. In dry
weather they must have water, and manure of
some soluble sort is imperatively necessary. As
a rule, the plants ripen well, and it is very much
better to lift them after growth has finished and
let them lie on the open border to ripen than
it is to dry them off in vineries or other cool
houses. I have tried both methods, and the
former is undoubtedly the best, as it I indeed

the one I pursue with many other plants. I
may add that I cut as early in the year as
growers in the south of England.

In order to succeed year after year, one re-
quires to be pretty careful in selecting sorts.
Happily, there is a good number of really fine
kinds that do well, and uow so cheap that they
can be bought by the dozen or hundred without
running up a big bill. I name some below
which are French, as I have but slight know-
ledge of English sorts. All are distinct, though
placed in sections according to colour. White
or nearly : Amalthee, Amitie Beatrix, Diamant,
Enchantresse, and Shakespeare. Blush, opal,
rrse of many shades : Bicolor, Dalila, Fra
Diavolo, M. A. Brongniart, Panama, Pasteur,
Phoenix, Sceptre de Flore, Sultane, and Tere-
sita. Red: Flamboyant, Grand Rouge, Dr.
Bailly, Le Vesuve, Meyerbeer. Lilac shades :
Baroness B. Coutts,Crepuscule,l'Unique Violet.
Orange-red : Celimene ; and reddish purple :
Horace Vernet. A few sorts, such as Passe
Rose among the new and Mabel among the old
kinds are very beautiful, but they are expen-
se R. P. Bkotherston.

Tynninghame.

soil is inclined to be heavy, retentive, and conse-
quently cold during the winter and spring, three
miles from here-Shedfield Lodge-where the soil
is sandy, Mr. Chequer cannot get them to succeed
at all. He has tried them in the open ground and
also in very large tubs of prepared compost, with
similar results. I am a great advocate of the let-
alone" principle in Christmas Rose culture when
once the plants have become established in any
favourable position. My plants have occupied
their present position in a border facing east lor
the last twelve years, and I have never once fmce
missed a full crop of flowers, commencing at
Christmas and continuing until the end of
February. The roots are so arranged that an
ordinary two-light garden frame can be placed
over them at the end of October. From that time
until the following spring the plants do not re-
ceive any water artificially, but while they are
making their growth they receive copious sup-
plies of water and occasional doses of weak liquid
manure. I notice where any part of a plant does
not grow so freely as others, a much thinner crop
of flowers is obtained from that part. Directly
the flowering period is past all seed-pods are re-
moved, the surface soil is pricked up gently, and
a dressing of freshly-chopped loam is added an
inch or so thick, to be followed by a good mulch
ing of half-decayed horse manure, which flowed
to decay and mix with the soil, washing the juices
of the manure down to the roots. -E. M., Swan
more Park, Bkhops Wallham.

Crucianella stylosa coccinea.— For quickly
covering large patches on the rockery this is one
of the °most useful among hardy plants. Of
dwarf trailing habit, growing only some 6 inches
high, and spreading out into neat, compact tufts,
it is especially helpful in furnishing large rockeries
or for clothing sloping banks where few plants
thrive. In spring when in flower the tufts are
simply studded with the globular heads of crim-
son flowers, which continue in profusion several
weeks. It is also well suited for the rockery
border, where it should be allowed to ramble
among the stones ; or planted as an informal edg-
ing it may be used with good results in many
ways, particularly where Grass does not do well.
For example, in many small gardens small slopes
occur on which we see Aubrietias and Arabis.
In such places the above plant may be used with
wood effect, especially so if alternately planted
with the white Arabis. The Crucianella is
easily increased by cuttings of the young shoots
in spring, almost every bit rooting in a few days.
— E. J.

Christmas Roses.— While Helleborus niger
and maximus flourish in this garden where the

EXHIBITION OF LILIES.
I recently noted in a contemporary that the
Koval Botanic Society of Manchester have resolved
to hold a great exhibition of Lilies in the gardens
at Old Trafford, to open on the hist Monday in
Aueust next. Now, beautiful as the different
members of the genus are, they certainly do not
lend themselves to a special exhibition, one great
reason being the fact that their flowering season
is spread o\°er a lengthened period, beginning in
Nearly part of theyear with forced specimens
of Lilium Harrisi and L. candidum, and out of
doors about the end of May with L. pyrenaicum
while the Neilgherry Lily (L, ne.lgherreiiser is the
last of all the Lilies to bloom. Where a considei -
able number of this is grown some will often
flower in September, while others will not bloom
till nearly Christmas. In the early part of August
the choice will certainly be very limited for most
members of the genus are over by that time I he
whole of the erect cup-shaped Lilies, of which the
best known are L. bulbiferum, L umbellatum o.
davuricum, L. elegans (represented in our ga.dens
by numerous varieties, differing from each other
more widely than any other Lily), and the old
Orange Lily (L. croceum), are all past, unless it be
a flower or two of L. elegans venustum or armenia-
cum ; and of the large Martagon group L.^uper-
bum is the latest. This is an August-flowerine
Lily, and a few flowers may be sometimes ha do
that most graceful species, L Lelc ^""j' ^
groundcolour of which i?P«!ey*^»™
brownish red. This brings us to Mr Baker s
Arehelirion, or open-flowered Lilies , to which ^t
of those that bloom in August belong. L. auratum
is one of this group, and although this Lih cannot
be forced or retarded as some of them can, yet
many may be had in bloom by the early part of
IZVl The typical auratum is by no means the
only form, for we have the well-marked varieties
nktvphyl urn, rubro-vittatum, and virginale. Of
nieseplatyphyllum is altogether more vigorous
that the typical kind ; the leaves are also broadei,
and the nTwers, which are very thick and ■«-
she are more saucer-shaped. As a rule, the
blooms of this do not show the same variation in
the marking as those of the type. A spotless
white flowef is virginale, or Wittei, as it is often
called The only tinting is a yellowish band down
uTe centre of each petal This is in constitution
the most delicate of all the auratums. The mark-
up of rubro-vittatum is very different from that
ofVe last, each petal having a broad stripe of

I()8

THE GARDEN.

[Feukuary 16, 1895

crimson down the centre. This is also known by
the varietal name of cruentum. If these Lilies
are grown in pots for flowering early in August,
care must be taken that they are not pushed on
too much during their earlier stages, otherwise
they may be over before the time required. The
bulbs of the variety plat} phyllum are large, and
composed of fewer, but larger scales than those of
the ordinary L. auratum, while bulbs of the other
two are. as a rule, a good deal smaller. Another
Lily of the same section which flowers in the open
ground generally towards the end of August
may be brought on under glass to lloom earlier
than this. It is the well-known L. speciosum, of
which numerous forms are now in cultivation.
This Lily is one of the most satisfactory of all for
flowering in pots, as it is not so liable to die
off as L. auratum, and can be depended upon to
flower well. In an exhibition of Lilies during the
month of August the different varieties of L.
speciosum would no doubt be largely represented.
Lilium tigrinum would flower about the required
time, and of it there are some distinct varieties.
If needed for blooming in pots the choice is, how-
ever, limited, as the ordinary Tiger Lily and its
double-flowered form do not succeed at all well
under such treatment, but the variety splendens
or Leopoldi is very satisfactory when so treated.
This retains its foliage well, which is not the case
with the others, and the red flowers spotted with
black are very distinct from the lighter tints of
L. auratum and L. speciosum. Of newer Lilies
we have L. Henryi, which may be had in flower
about that time, but it is really far more satisfac-
tory when planted out as at Kew than when
grown in pots : still, under these latter conditions
its colour makes it very noticeable. L. nepa-
lense, one of the most distinct of all Lilies, might
perhaps bloom in the early part of August, but
its gracefully recurving blossoms are, as a rule,
later than this in expanding. This Lily requires
careful treatment, and it is very seldom that one
gets more than a single bloom on a stem. Occa-
sionally the secondary blooms of L. Harrisi will
be at their best about the beginning of August,
but they are very irregular in this respect, and
not to be depended upon for decorations. From
the above it will be seen that at a Lily exhibition
at that season of the year but a very small pro-
portion of the species in cultivation will be repre-
sented, and indeed at no time could a very large
number be got together. H. P.

THE WINDFLOWER.

(ANEMONE C0K0NARIA. )

At one time the Anemone was largely grown for
cutting for market, but that practice has ceased
to a considerable extent. It is undoubtedly one
of the brightest and most effective of spring
flowers ; and as well-established roots make a free
growth and produce many blossoms, it is matter
for regret that the Anemone is not more culti-
vated, especially as very fine strains are met with
in some parts of the country. Dry roots are
largely imported from Holland, France, &c. ; they
come over early in September. If they are planted
in a rather deep rich loam, not too heavy, they
make growth in late autumn and put forth flower
in spring. The old florists preferred a friable
loam of a gritty character. The soil was deeply dug
and manured, and planting done from October
until January. A bed was made and five roots
placed in a row across it, 6 to 7 inches apart.
They were planted 2 inches deep, the soil gently
pressed upon them, and a covering of partly
decayed leaves and manure placed on the sur-
face to the depth of 2 inches. Some growers left
this to decay and become incorporated with the
surface soil ; others would clear the mulch away
and replace it with one composed of well-rotted
manure. Water was freely given in dry weather.
A bed planted in October would flower in May ;
those planted in January not until July. Well-
established roots will frequently bloom in autumn,
and this arises largely from the fact that it is a
characteristic of the Anemone to again put forth

growth as soon as the roots are well matured.
To prevent this in the case of choice varieties
which were intended for exhibition in May it was
a practice with the old growers to attempt a kind
of root-pruning, namely, to cut partly through
the roots in the soil, dividing them near the base
of the root, and so preventing a second growth.
But those who grow the Anemone for garden
decoration, and who do not make a practice of
lifting the roots as soon as the foliage has turned
yellow for the purpose of ripening them off, are
not at all displeased that it blooms again in
autumn, though it may affect its spring flowering.

Dry roots planted in October should by this time
have some leaves above the soil, and a little pro-
tection from severe weather is desirable. This can
be done by top-dressing with rough leaf mould, with
which is mixed some fibry loam, some well-decom-
posed manure, or half-decayed leaves. Such a loose
and light dressing affords protection to the crowns
of the tubers and to the young foliage springing
therefrom, and the dressing as it decays becomes
of value as a fertiliser.

Opinions will differ as to whether the double or
the single varieties are the more attractive. For
my part I prefer the single flowers, for their
simple beauty. I think many of the double va-
rieties have the appearance of being irregular and
uncouth, despite their size and fulness ; and for
the same reason I prefer a single Tulip to a double
one, or a single Daffodil to one that is double.
But the variety of the Anemone affords ample for
all to admire it and deem it worthy a place in
their gardens. R. D.

THE SHOW AURICULA.
The figure of Mrs. Moore (Douglas) show Auri-
cula at p. 77 is a reminder that soon the fancier
will be busily engaged amongst his favourites.
The flowering plants have all been arranged to-
gether by themselves where they can be well
cared for, beginning with the green edged, the
most difficult class in which to obtain high-class
flowers. There is a decided tendency amongst
seedlings raised from the choicest varieties of this
class to come with the margin slightly dusted
with farina or meal, as it is termed. A high class
variety is only produced after long and patient
waiting. Some may say the raiity of a plant
makes it more valuable to fanciers, and doubtless
this is so in Auriculas as well as the more aristo-
cratic Orchid. I have been trying for many years
to obtain a good green-edged Auricula, and have
obtained one in Abbe Liszt. This is the only one
that has been good enough to send out, and yet
people think they are hardly dealt by if they do not
get some sterling novelties out of a 2s. 6d. packet
of seed. Out of 1000 plants I have saved half-a-
dozen, and after growing them again have re-
duced them to one. Of course, this excessive
weeding out may seem a too fastidious way of
dealing with the Auriculas, but there is no other
way in which they can be brought up to the pre-
sent high standard of excellence. The florists of
long ago valued the show Auricula even more
than we do, for Hogg, who wrote in the early
years of the present century, tells of a plant of
Auricula green-edged Colonel Taylor which was
sold for five guineas. A new and rare green -
edged Auricula in these days would not be valued
at more than one guinea.

I like to see the Auricula plants well frozen
early in the year. Our plants of both show and
alpine are still well frozen in the garden frames,
and herein I think the old growers had the ad-
vantage, for their plants were free from the
troublesome Auricula aphis. I fancy this pest is
kept under when the plants are well exposed
during the winter ; whereas it lives and thrives
in a house from which frost is excluded by the use
of a heating apparatus. Many persons fancy that
this parasite is very injurious, and turn their
plants out of the pots periodically to remove it
from the roots. This frequent disturbance of the
roots is very injurious to the Auriculas and checks
their growth very much. The insect does not

seem to do any harm if it is kept away from the
neck of the plants, and this can easily be done
with a small brush and fine tobacco powder. Pay
particular attention to the seedlings of the show-
varieties to get them pricked out, because unless
they have a good start early in the year they will
not be strong enough to give good flower-trusses
next year. The alpine Auricula makes much
better growth in a season, and really does better
planted out in the open garden ; in fact, the show
Auricula may also be planted out, and will be much
less trouble. The young plants should be set out
in some shady position away from any drip. The
Rev. F. D. Horner plants his seedlings out in a
well-prepared, open border. I noticed that even
in his North Yorkshire garden he had made an
arrangement for shading the plants with light
tiffany during the summer months. Surface-
dressing Auriculas was quite recently a universal
custom amongst fanciers, and they did it because
such was the usual custom. This custom some of
us have found out had better be discontinued. A
considerable epiantity of soil was generally taken
out from amongst the surface roots, this being
replaced with a mixture of very rich material,
but observant cultivators found out that even up
to the time when the plants were in full bloom
the roots did not penetrate into this strong
mixture. I tried a mixture not so strong, and
one into which the roots would grow freely if
they were potted in it, but the plants evidently
do not form roots at least near the surface at the
time of flowering, for they made very little use of
this mixture even when only moderately rich.

J. DornLAs.

Colour and form in show Auriculas. —

"D. C." writes asking if a crooked flower like
Mrs. Moore should be admitted in a selection of
choice Auriculas. I beg to say that Mrs. Moore
is not a crooked flower, as can be seen by ex-
amining any well-grown truss of it. When it was
first exhibited it received several first-class certifi-
cates of merit from various floral societies, the
judges being the best florists at the time. I also
gave the colours as approved of by the " Auricula
Fancier." For my part I would be delighted to
see Auriculas raised with a ground or body colour
of violet, deep blue, plum, or scarlet. I esteem
many of the old florists, and greatly admire them
for the good work they have done in preserving
for us these beautiful favourites, when the fashion
of the age was for ribbon borders, panel gardening
and carpet bedding, but in the colour and form of
their flowers they were too much wedded to
routine, and they remind us rather of what poor
Oliver Goldsmith wrote of his celebrated country-
man Edmund Burke. Our old fashioned florist
saved from his seedlings only the flowers which he
knew would be admired by his brother florists.
Any other garden varieties outside the range of
the standard of excellence aimed at by the florist
were not tolerated in his garden, although I am
informed some of the rejected Auriculas were sold
to cottagers at a penny per plant in the good old
times. — J. Douglas.

Violets. — The border likely to be required for
the preparation of plants for another season may
receive attention so soon as the weather will
permit, breaking it down with the fork, and, if
the natural soil is rather on the stiff or light side,
adding a bit of heavier stuff or some leaf-soil as
circumstances demand. It should be so workable
at planting-time as to allow for a light treading,
which has the effect of settling the soil down and
admitting a more rapid formation of root. I used
to dibble the runners straight from the plants on
this border, but finding they were a long time
making headway if the weather came hot and dr; ,
I have resorted to the plan of putting them for a
time rather thickly in a frame, shading a little
until root action commenced. The very best plan
if time will allow is to tie a piece of damp Moss
round each runner, placing them for a time in the
frame ; they can then be lifted out with all the
tiny rootB intact, and will start away at once. A
south-west border is the best site. — E. Bctrrell.

February 16, 1895. J

THE GARDEN

109

plants

SUNFLOWERS AT TRE3SERNE.
In the autumn of 1802 I replanted about 2
acres of vineyard, and the winter of 1893 being
unusually severe, it was found when sprin:
came that a large number of the little
had perished. As they could not be
replaced until the autumn I determined
to fill the vacant spaces for the time
being with tall-growing annuals. Early
in May I had some of Vilmorin's best
strain < f giant Sunflower and Castor-oil
plants sown in boxes, and towards the
end of May several thousands of little
seedlings were planted out. Shortly
afterwards I left for England. When I
returned to Tresserne in August I found
a perfect forest of Sunflowers and Rici-
nus. It was a wonderful and beautiful
sight. When we walked among them
they towert-d above our heads and shut
out the sky. Visitors to the garden
were much impressed by the unusually
beautiful effect. Last spring myriads of
seedlings appeared, and I feifc much
distressed in having to destroy them,
but in the interest of the new vineyard
all could not be suffered to grow, so
only a few hundreds were allowed to
remain. These were the plants which
attained to such gigantic proportions
last autumn. There appeared to be
about equal numbers of the branching
and single plants, and they both showed
the same tropical growth. Many of the
single-flowered plants were quite 20
feet high, and the individual blooms
were about 22 inches in diameter. The
foliage was equally fine, .and, indeed, in
every respect the plants showed a
luxuriance truly remarkable. When in
November they were cut down and the
stems piled together they made quite a
large stack. I have no way of account-
ing for such unusual growth beyond the
favourable position of the garden, which
slopes towards the Lac de Bourget in
a south-westerly direction. The soil,
naturally excellent, had been well
trenched and manured for the planta-
tion of Vines. The seed, which origin-
ally came from Vilmorin, was self-sown
last year. More rain fell last spring
than was the case the previous year,
and that would probably be an additional
aid to the plants, which last season
averaged from 2 feet to 3 feet more in
height than those of the preceding year.

E. WlLLMOTT.

marshy ground near it is a perfect paradise for
bog plants. Onoclea sensibilis, for example,
which he alludes to in your issue of January 26,
p. 61, and which he thinks is injured by wet,
becomes in my bog garden as truly a weed as it

BOG PLANTS.
I often wish, when I read Mr. Wood's
instructive letters in The Garden, that
for his sake as well as our own his
interesting place ran down to the river
at the bottom of the Kirkstall valley
instead of being confined to the drier
land on the side of it, though I am not
sure whether the bog plants he finds it
so difficult to grow would thrive as luxu-
riintly near the pellucid (!) waters of
his Yorkshire stream as they do in
this Norfolk village. If the chimneys •<
of the great ironworks at Kirkstall still
smoke as they did when I last saw them,
I wonder, not that he sometimes meets

giant Sunflower at Tresserne. Engraved for Thb Garden from a
photojraph sent ly Miss Willmott, Warley Place, Essex.

most at home by the side of a ditch, where it
creeps along quite down to the water's edge,
the fronds being sometimes nearly 3 feet
high. Speaking generally, I find many of
the North American Ferns quite able to
hold their own in perfectly wild places.
I often wonder they are not more fre-
quently introduced into the choicer parts
of the plantations that often surround
our English gardens. To anyone who,
like myself, prefers to grow plants that
require no attention and give no anxiety,
I can confidently recommend for such
a purpose the under-mentioned species,
viz., Onoclea sensibilis, Struthiopteria
pennsylvanica, Osmunda cinnamomea,
O. interrupta, O. spectabilis, Nephro-
dium Goldianum, N. intermedium, Poly-
podium hexagnnopterum, Asplenium an-
gustifolium, and Aspidium acrosti-
choides, and with a little more care and
in suitable soil (the others will grow
anywhere), Adiantum pedatum, Aspi-
dium munituni, Athyrium Michauxi,
Cystopteris bulbifera, Nephrodium mar-
ginale, and Woodsia obtusa. There
are many other hardy exotic Ferns that
will take care of themselves, or nearly
so, and an admixture of these foreign
species with English Ferns in the wild
garden would make it a much more in-
teresting place than it sometimes is.
Mr. Wood speaks of Tropreolum spe-
ciosum as disliking wet, but it grows in
my bog garden at a spot that is some-
times nearly under water in winter, and
has been so during the last few weeks
several times and for days together.

On the same page as Mr. Wood's
letter, another of your correspondents
("A. D.") says that with him Primula
Sieboldi proves impatient of moisture.
He will be surprised to know that the
only situation 1 care to grow this beau-
tiful plant in is the wet, waterlogged
soil 1 have described, because I find it
does so much better there than anywhere
else. Two years ago I dug up a great
patch of it, and sent it to the spring
show at Norwich without any prepara-
tion at all, where it gained a first
prize in a small collection of pot plants.
Primula japonica, too, will not grow
anywhere with me as I like it to do
except in wet ground, where it flourishes
and seeds about like a perfect weed.
I quite agree with your correspondents
that some plants must be kept dry in
winter, as they are at home, for ex-
ample, on the Alps under the snow,
or in Canada, where the ground is
hardened many feet deep by 60° of frost.
In such localities it is either winter or
summer, and plants are either resting or
growing. In this country the winter
and spring, with their unceasing changes
of the temperature of the air and the
condition of the soil, are simply bewilder-
ing to plants with delicate constitutions
that coine from countries where they
live in a climate they can depend upon,
and some of them cannot adapt them-
selves to the different state of things.
Some plants cannot be cultivated at all
except at the expenditure of an amount
of trouble out of all proportion to their
Fortunately, there are many others

value.

. with is in the Canadian swamps. I give it no care or

plants that object to grow in his garden, but attention whatever, but let it run about just as that seem absolutely indifferent to the vagaries

that he is so generally successful. it likes, and it thrives and holds its own in my and inclemency of our English climate if

.fortunately, my grounds extend to the banks woods with the rank-growing marsh plants as only they can have plenty of moisture in the

of a small stream, the river Yare, and the low, well as any English Fern could do. It seems ' growing season. One thing, however, many

110

THE GARDEN.

[Feubuaby 1C, 1895.

oven of these object to, and that is smoke
and impure air. I think some of Mr.
Wood's difficulties must be due to the Kirkstall
forges on one side of his garden and the Leeds
factory chimneys on the other. I should like
some day to have the opportunity of showing him
how thoroughly at home such things as those al-
ready named, Cypripedium spectabile (which I
remember he mentioned in your columns some
time since) and many other plants which are
often thought difficult to grow can be, even
though growing in soil which is saturated with
moisture all the year round, and sometimes
even submerged in winter.

Cringleford.

F. W. Harmer.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.

Sarracenia purpurea. — With regard to the
hardiness of this species, of which I believe there
are several varieties, I find it in my Yorkshire
climate fairly so, but it would certainly not be
safe during its first winter unless well established.
To succeed with this plant it is important to
begin with good roots, planting them in the early
summer so that the}7 may become well established
before winter. Under these circumstances I find
it hardy. I have proved that strong crowns with
a good piece of woody rhizome and a few fresh
leaves are not only the likeliest specimens to grow,
but if set in 9 inches or 12 inches of rotten Sphag-
num and peat, with plenty of silver sand to make
this fibrous stuff somewhat solid, plenty of roots
are rapidly formed in the first summer. Of course,
when 1 say plenty of roots I mean in the relative
sense, because the Sarracenias do not possess at
best a dense set of roots. I think it also advis-
able to cover over Sarracenias in the open with a
thickish covering of dry Bracken during winter.
This enables the plant to keep in a more verdant
state as regards its old leaves, and such when ex-
posed in spring are better for a vigorous start
compared with plants whose leaves are all
browned.

Saxifraga Burseriana. — One recalls this
charming alpine from seeing its prominent buds
in the first month of the year, waiting only for a
spell of a week's fine weather to become expanded.
By the kindness of Mr. Boyd I am now possessed
of some five or six varieties of this species, but I
have recently found that other than the plants
that he has raised are existent with very marked
features of distinction, and, like many other spe-
cies that one could recall, some of the beautiful
varieties must have existed for a long time. From
out-of-the-way gardens I have received plants
with features almost as wide from what I took to
be my typical plants as if they had been other
species entirely. At the timel supposed it might
merely be a difference caused by soil or climate,
but after growing them for a year under the same
conditions as my own, I see the distinctions main-
tained. I merely mention this, as it might be in-
teresting to know this plant may bo had as vari-
able from seed almost as the well-known Saxifraga
longifolia. It is not a case of having to throw
out bad forms, because I have never yet seen an
indifferent one. All the varieties I have seen are
•well worthy of culture.

Meconopsis Wallichj.— May I mention, anent
the note of the Rev. Mr. Rage-Roberts (p. 31),
that I can conceive it quite possible for his ex-
perience with this plant to be different from mine.
Different garden conditions would account for it,
for one thing. The two facts I would wish to
state, however, are, first, that I never tried this
plant in what I understand by the term "total
shade," and I am under the impression that I
gave with the sunny position one also of extra
moisture for the roots. With many plants to be
grown in one condition without the other would
make all the difference in the world. I have
always grown this plant and also M. nepalensis
at the bottom of sunny pieces of rockwork, where
the slopes acted as a sort of watershed for an

extra supply of wet, and, it may be added, wet of
the most healthful kind, seeing that in such parts
— among stones and in sunshine — there could be
neither stagnation nor sourness.

Phyteuma comosum. — There are two plants
of this name, and, what is more, both are in com-
merce, so that it is somewhat essential that the
kind intended should be thoroughly understood.
The plants are widely distinct, and once seen, a
novice could scarcely mistake the one for the
other : and, indeed, the descriptions of the
respective authorities will be sufficient for those
who have the means of referring to them. The
most distinct form is comosum (Linn.). P.eomosum
(Vill.) is a much coarser plant with a totally
different habit, and growing 1 foot to 1A feet high,
and it is synonymous with Alph. de Candolle's
comosum, which that authority classes as a variety
of orbiculare. The much-sought-for comosum
(Linn.) grows but several inches high, has rigid
foliage, somewhat contorted and toothed like
Holly, borne on very short stalks. For the size of
plant the flowers are both large and numerous, but
I think the culture requires to be somewhat special.
The half-woody root-stalks are better for being
kept dry about the collar, but the more extreme
parts of the roots should reach good soil. The
plant has also a decided preference for limestone.
I grew my most successful plants with the points
of the stronger roots in rich moist loam, with quite
3 inches on the surface of gravelly soil and lime
chips. J. Wood.

Woodville, Kirkstall.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

White flowers. — Hardy white flowers useful as
border plants and in most cases for cutting range
from tree-like shrubs down to the dwarf white
Harebells. In the shrubs one of the best is prob-
ably the Fringe tree (Chionanthua virginicus),
handsome in foliage and beautiful as any Orchid
when in full flower. It is not so widely known
as it should be. The fact, however, that it was
shown as a forced plant in very fine form once or
twice last season will doubtless have the effect of
increasing the number of its admirers and planters.
It must be noted that it is quite as good out-of-
doors as in the show tent. It would be advisable,
if possible, to have another name for this plant,
unless it is simply known as the Fringe tree. The
scientific name gets sadly mixed up with the
better-known Chimonanthus fragrans. A very fine
shrub, growing to a height of 10 feet, is Spiraa
aria-folia; a clump of this in a prominent position
makes a brave show when covered with the huge
spikes of white flowers. This, by the way, is not
such an essentially moist border plant as are the
dwarfer Spiraeas. I have seen it very fine on poor
dry ground. The grandiflorus form of the Mock
Orange is a great improvement on the t\pe, being
nearly or quite twice the size and of better sub-
stance. Two dwarfer shrubs that will be found
very useful are the white Broom and that beauti-
ful double Spirsea, S. prunifolia fl.-pl. ; the one is a
capital plant for covering dry, sloping banks, the
other equally good for clothing portions of wall or
old tree stumps. Turning to the larger herba-
ceous plants that furnish us with white flowers,
all the Spira-a family make capital border plants,
but the best for cutting are palmata alba and
astilboides. The latter is the least satisfactory
in growth of any of its class ; it wants a moist,
partially shaded border and the ground to be
well prepared. We find the long spikes of Gal-
tonia candicans very useful for cutting. Those
starting the culture of this plant are advised
to plant in occasional open spaces that may
occur in bed.? of American plants or young
shrubberies rather than to mass it alone in
the open. The long flowering stems of the
taller Campanulas are very acceptable for large
vases, and so are the spikes of the white
Foxglove. Of the white varieties of Antirrhinum,
Phlox, Pyrethrum and Sweet William it may be
said that they are as useful for the flower basket
as for the border. Last season was a disastrous
one for Sweet Williams ; the foliage was badly

attacked with disease early in the year, the rema-
dial measures employed had not the effect of check-
ing its progress, and the size of flower-spike was
considerably lessened ; indeed, in many cases the
display was very poor. Smaller herbaceous plants
bearing white flowers that are always acceptable
would commence with a good strain of white
Polyanthus and run on with white Pinks and Car-
nations, the various forms of the Poet's Daffodil,
the double white Yarrow, Veronica spieata alba,
&c. , whilst an occasional picking from a good
white Viola comes in handy for small glass bowls
and vases. There is now a radical change in the
typ6 of flower employed for cutting, as one sees
extra-sized blooms of white P'eonies used.

Specialities. — There are some herbaceous
plants, hardy and easily grown, that have come
rapidly to the front within the last few years,
very beautiful in quantity on the border, and for
cutting almost equal to the choicest hot-house
flowers. It is not that these are anything new ;
on the contrary, they might almost rank with
old-fashioned flowers ; but rather with the grow-
ing taste for such things, planters — having recog-
nised their beaut}- and adaptability for vase work
— gradually tool; measures to see that they should
be well represented in the flower garden. Take,
for instance, the Montbretias. Some, at any rate,
of the family were introduced as far back as 1825,
but it is only very lately that it is the rule, and
not the exception, to find them even in large
gardens, and yet it is safe to assert that there is
no more acceptable flower for the vase, whether
it be the spike in its entirety for tall, or the
side shoots for shorter glasses. Growth was
early this year with the Montbretias, and the
young blades are cut down nearly level with the
ground by the late frosts. The flowering
season will in consequence be a little delayed and
individual spikes not quite eo fine as usual. This,
however, will comprise the amount of harm for
which the late severe weather is likely to be
answerable. Another " special " plant, very dif-
ferent to the Montbretias, but which may be here
appropriately mentioned, as it is often associated
in a cut form with these Cape bulbs, is Gypsophila
paniculata, a plant that has indeed risen very
rapidly in favour. Little known a few years back,
except in hardy plant nurseries, it is now a very
general favourite — evinced by the fact that there
are few summer shows where it may not be found
both as a pot plant for groups and in cut form.
It is, fortunately, a plant of very easy culture in
ordinary garden soil, tiny clumps producing the
first season very large heads of flower. Like the
majority of the better-class herbaceous plants, it
likes a bit of good soil, to which a little manure
has been added at planting-time and an annual
winter mulching. Following up the thought ex-
pressed earlier in these notes that some of the
common flowers take rank as among the most
delicately beautiful, one must say a good word for
Saxifraga umbrosa, the old London Pride, a
charming flower for vases. A less known plant,
but also in its way very beautiful, is Heuchera
sanguinea. Alstneinerias might be grown more
extensively where quantities of cut flowers are
required ; they possess the merit of standing well
in water. Essentials towards their successful cul-
ture are a sunny, well-drained, trenched border,
fairly deep planting and a heavy surface mulch-
ing. Writing of hardy flowers brings the re-
minder that as the time for the formation cf
schedules in connection with cottage garden show s
is now fast approaching, it is as well to draw
attention to the necessity for accuracy in the
wording of those classes that deal with collections
of cut flowers. They should be classed as hardy
herbaceous or as annuals, as the case may be, and
not indoor or outdoor flowers, or one often gets
varieties that may be grown out of doors through
the summer months, but w hich have actually come
from the shelter of a greenhouse. Also where
practicable it is advisable to give one or two prizes
for the best flower garden. One is met sometimes
with the remark, " But it is so difficult to judge a
flower garden," but I do not think there need be
any real difficulty, for a true cottage flower garden

February 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

111

(always subject to order, neatness and good
arrangement) should be one from which the
greatest amount of pleasure is derived, planted to
secure a long flowering season — not a display for
two or three months and bare earth the remaining
nine, but something to look at and admire the
greater part of the year. E. Bcrrell.

Clartmont.

Orchard and Fruit Garden,

PEAR BEURRE D'AREMBERG.

The accompanying illustration shows a fruiting
branch of that good Pear Beurre d'Aremberg,
which comes into use during December and
January. It is a tree that bears well either as
a cordon or standard, is hard}', and as a stock
the Pear or Quince may be chosen, as it does
well on both. The flavour of the fruit is rich
and juicy.

GRAPE MRS. PINCE.

As grown in these gardens, Mrs. Pince is a grand
Grape, the bunches being large, well shaped, and
the berries excellently coloured. Taking one
season with another, the bunches weigh individu-
ally from 5 lbs. to 7 lbs. The largest bunch I
ever had of this variety weighed 9j lbs., and was
well finished. One of the most fertile causes of
failure is overcropping ; in fact, I know of no
other variety of Grape which suffers to such an
extent from this evil as Mrs. Pince. Being natur-
ally a large-bunched variety, some people cannot
resist the temptation to leave more bunches than
the Vine can possibly finish ; consequently the
berries fail to finish, taking on that " foxy " tinge
and commencing to shrivel early. Not only are
the Grapes spoilt for the season, but an inherent
weakness is laid in the Vine, with the result that
the following season the berries fail to set properly.
Far better is it to limit the number of bunches
annually, with the certainty of their finishing up
well. A long season of growth is also needed, the
Vines being started the first week in March. A
little warmth is kept continually in the pipes at
night right throughout the season ; in fact, this
is the practice I adopt with all Grapes, whatever
the nature of the season, a little ventilation also
being kept continually on. If the vinery is kept
too hot and close, the Grapes are ripened up too
quickly ; whereas time is needed lor laying on
colour. As this treatment produces both good
Alicante and Lady Downe's, there is no need to
have a separate structure for Mrs. Pince. A
dense shade about the bunches is also detri-
mental to a good finish. The laterals must
be thinly trained, as quite as much light is
needed for this variety as for Muscat of Alex-
andria. I came to this conclusion on noticing
that the sides of the bunches which were most ex-
posed to direct light took on the deepest colour.
Mrs. Pince is growing here at the west end of a
lean-to vinery ; consequently more light reaches
the bunches than if the Vine were grown in the
middle of the house.

I have no trouble in securing a good set, but the
precaution is taken of drawing the hand over the
bunches daily whilst in flower. If any other va-
riety is in bloom at the same time, the hand is
drawn over these first to gather pollen. The tem-
perature also at this period must be well main-
tained both by night as well as by day. If the Vine
should be in flower during a wet and dull time,
the atmosphere must be kept buoyant by the use
of more artificial heat. A. YOUNG.

Abbeiiey Hall, Stourport.

Apple Loddington Seedling.— Tbisisalarge

kitchen variety, and may be termed a mid-season
fruit. My experience of this Apple is that it
closely resembles the Keswick Codlin as regards

its cropping qualities, as it rarely fails to bear. I
do not know of any kind more suitable for grafting
on to old standards which are worthless. I saw
some old standards of this variety last season in
the west of England doing grandly. These had
only been grafted a few years, and I was told a
good price was obtained for the fruits. Many
growers who have old, worthless trees and who
may wish to regraft would do well to try this
variety. It also does well on the Paradise. — S. H.

Rivers' Early Nectarine. — The favourable
descriptions given of this early Nectarine by
growers who had proved it prompted me to
secure a pot-grown tree for permanent planting
in the early house, believing that the slightly
extra cost would be a gain in early fruiting. I
previously had established trees of Lord Napier
and the old Elruge, which, however, did not ripen
their crops till the end of May, while Alexander,
Early Beatrice, and Waterloo Peaches were ready
in the first week of that month. The new Nec-
tarine was planted towards the end of December,
and by the middle of January was in full flower.
Early blooming does not always imply a corre-
sponding early ripening of the crop in Peaches or
Nectarines, but it certainly appears to justify the

the hedge at the bottom of Mr. Mannington's
garden, and always had a stunted appearance.
With me it is free from canker, having a slender
habit of growth. It makes a good pyramid and
espalier, and comes into bearing early. Mr.
Mannington was a butcher by trade and an en-
thusiastic pomologist, taking a great interest in
all kinds of fruit. 1 used to often see him sitting
at his door when passing in the summer-time,
and he delighted to point to the large Wistaria
that covered his house and shop. He died at the
house he had occupied for years on September 19,
1880, at the ripe old age of ninety-three. Often
as I pass the old shop I think of the man who did
so much to encourage fruit cultivation in this
neighbourhood, and so long as the Apple that
bears his name is in existence his perseverance in
trying to improve our fruits will be borne in
mind.— H. C. P.

Apples and canker. — According to my ex-
perience, King of the Pippins is liable to canker
very much when worked upon the Crab stock
in heavy soil if the roots are not kept near the
surface. This is one of the varieties that can be
depended upon to fruit every year. Trees of it
planted in the ordinary way will show canker the
second year when growing in
heavy cold soil, but by lifting
them on to the surface and mound-
ing the roots up the canker will be
checked, the trees making a clean
free growth almost directly after-
wards. Trees of this variety planted
deep in a cold soil will produce a
quantity of fruit, but many of
them will be badly affected by the
Apple scab. My experience of
canker in Apple trees is that it
is the result of an unsuitable soil,
aggravated by deep planting. —
E. M.

Pear Beurre" d' Aremberg. Engraved from a photograph sent
by Miss A. Worsley, Rodney Lodge, Clifton, Bristol.

advance claimed for it by the raisers in point of
earliness in ripening. Lord Napier will be fully
three weeks later in coming into full flower,
although started early for the past three or four
years, when the new Early Rivers probably has
not been forced at all. This latter has, like Lord
Napier, very fine flowers, and must have close
attention in fertilising to get them to set properly.
When better known and the cost within easy
reach of the general grower, this new variety must
take a foremost place for early forcing, and if it
ripens as reported, three weeks in advance of
Lord Napier, this will not lose its value because
of the succession it would furnish. — Wiltshire
Gardener.

Apple Manningtcn's Pearmain.— I was

very pleased to see this Apple spoken so highly of
on p. 76. On our cold soil it does well, and is
one of the finest late Apples in cultivation. It is,
however, seldom seen on the exhibition table on

Mr. J. Douglas (page 75)

is quite correct in inferring that
I hold no bigoted opinion on
the subject of the liability
of Apples on the Paradise stock
to canker. Two cases, how-
ever, have come under my ob-
servation in which canker has
attacked the Paradise and spared
the Crab. In one case the trees
on the Crab are three years older
than those on the Paradise, were
planted three years earlier, and
cune from a different nurseryman.
The two varieties of stocks occupy
adjacent plots of land ; both looked
in the best of health when planted,
but a third of those on the Para-
dise are now affected by canker,
while those on the Crab are free from it. In
the other case, which as an example is still
more striking, the trees, on Paradise and Crab,
are planted alternately in the rows, each row con-
sisting of one variety of Apple. All these trees
were planted at the same time and came from the
same nurseryman. In some of the rows the trees
on the Paradise are cankered, while those on the
Crab (of the same variety) are clean. It has oc-
curred to me that the dwarfing stock by stunting
the tree may, under certain circumstances, render
it liable to the attacks of a disease which the
freer stock is vigorous enough to grow away from,
if I may so express it. — S. W. F.

Coloured Vine leavee. —The note (p. 33) by
" W. G. C. " is quite opportune, and an interesting
subject as well. There is not the slightest doubt
but that the constituent properties of the soil
have a marked effect upon the colour of Vine
leaves. Nowhere in England have I seen such

account of its size, and for this reason is not so I high colour as on the Vines in Scotland. A really
extensively cultivated as it deserves to be. Those, ■ splendid feature was made at the late Edinburgh
however, who appreciate quality would do well to j Chrysanthemum show by Messrs. D. and W.
grow this. The fruit should be allowed to hang Buchanan, of Kippen by Stirling, with Vine
on the tree till late in the autumn, and if after- j leaves only. For three days a ready sale appeared
wards stored in a cool place it will keep sound till to be going on, so eager were the visitors to purchase
April. The original tree was found growing in these leaves for vase decoration. Black Ham-

112

THE GARDEN.

[February 16, 1895.

burgli was especially golden in its colouring, and
so were Gros Maroc and Alicante, not that dingy
yellow which is very common in most vineries
upon the approach of autumn, but a colour which
is best described as a rich lustrous yellow. Bar-
barossa was exquisitely blotched with crimson,
and so were Madresfield Court and Gros Colman.
Alnwick Seedling was splendid with irregular
blotchings of gold and green. From Mr. Bucha-
nan I learnt that the soil in which the Vines were
growing was especially porous, being light and
warm, and therefore more adapted to natural
colouring than where the soil is heavy and conse-
quently colder. At the same exhibition classes
were provided for vases or epergnes dressed with
Vine leaves only, and an exceedingly rich display
the dozen well-dressed stands made. In fact, no
exhibit in the whole of an exceptionally large ex-
hibition created more interest than the vases
alluded to. In the vineries at Newbattle I noted
also the same richness of colouring in the well-
developed leaves of nearly all varieties. There
again the golden tinge of the Black Hamburgh
and Alicante was especially bright. It may be
that here in the southern counties the foliage
ripens and falls off more quickly than in the north,
where the atmosphere is cooler in the autumn.
Even as far south as Torquay, where the soil is
particularly porous, I have not seen anything
approaching the magni6cent colouring alluded to
in Scotland. At the Hull show an attempt was
made to utilise coloured Vine leaves in association
with cut blooms of Chrysanthemums, but the re-
sult was anything but satisfactory, owing mainly
to the dinginess of the Vine leaves. — E. M.

Apple Mere de Menage. — Some growers
find a difficulty in getting this variety to fruit
freely, but my experience is quite the reverse. I
have forty trees of it, and without exception they
all do well. It is just the Apple to grow in soil
that is heavy and retentive, provided pruning is
not carried out upon too restrictive a method. By
allowing the leading shoots free extension, fruit
spurs are produced in quantity. Better crops are
thus obtained from quite young trees. Apples
from well-managed trees of this variety grow to a
very large size and are of exquisite colour. As a
cooking Apple Mere de Manage takes a high posi-
tion, keeping quite plump until the end of
January. — E. M.

YOUNG PEACH TREES.

For* the past month I have been watching a
number of young Peach trees very closely, and
in particular have noted which trees shed the
most buds prematurely. Once more it has
been proved that bud-casting is more due to the
inherent weakness, if I may so term it, of some
varieties, and more especially those of American
origin. Early in the spring of 1894 about
thirty maiden trees in six varieties were planted
in a span-roofed house 135 feet long and 14 feet
wide, and, all things considered, they have done
surprisingly well. They had really to hold their
own against Tomatoes planted out in cross rows
3 feet apart in the same house. All the favour
shown to the Peach trees only amounted to a
little decayed manure mixed with the ordinary
sandy loam in the house and a clear semi-
circular rooting space 4 feet across. As might
be expected under such conditions, the growth
was not excessively vigorous, or at all events
grossness was avoided, but being maidens and
not stunted cut-back or trained trees they grew
quite strongly enough, many of the leading
growths being allowed to form secondary shoots.
These latter were freely thinned out, only those
best placed for laying in being reserved. It
should also be added that they were extra strong,
well-matured maidens, and were not cut hard
back, but instead of this were trimmed in and
shortened to a length of 3 feet, this just bring-
ing them up to the roof trellis and enabling us

to dispense with longer-stemmed, and therefore
more expensive trees. Thanks to the compara-
tive poorness of the soil and also the abund-
ance of light admitted to the trees through large
squares of glass with only stout sash bars to sup-
port these, the wood, as a rule, was thoroughly
well matured, so much so in fact that there
are numerous fruit - buds on young wood
1| inches in circumference. At first I was
under the impression that Early Alexander
would hold its fruit-buds well, but latterly
they have tumbled off wholesale, so that not
many more than a dozen will remain on each
tree other than what are found on the twigs or
spray, of which there is, unfortunately, very
little. Nor is Hale's Early behaving much
better. There will be enough flowers left to
give a crop, and that is about all. Next to
these, also on the hottest side of the house,
comes Crimson Galande, and these trees are
the worst ripened of the lot, yet they are cer-
tain to flower profusely. They were so late in
ripening, that I scarcely expected'to see flowers
on the greater portion of the shoots, but with
few exceptions they are there. On the opposite
side Bellegarde has the warmest end, and these
trees are very freely budded, rather more so in
fact than I care to see them, a little more
vigour being desirable in this case. All the
trees, and some have grown much more strongly
than others, of Sea Eagle are in a very promising
condition, and flower-buds will be removed ex-
tensively. Curiously enough, this line late
ripening variety is usually the first to flower in
a mixed house, and with me is well ahead of the
rest. Princess of Wales completes the selec-
tion, and of this we have the best trees, some
of them having fan-shaped heads 5 feet through.
Without being particularly well ripened, the
wood is yet sufficiently well matured, and
throughout growths 3 feet long are furnished
with fruit-buds. There are no signs of drop-
ping in the case of the four last named varie-
ties, and before these lines are in print they
will all be in full flower. This does not add
much to what has been advanced on the subject
of bud-dropping in previous years, but it is
corroborative.

Perhaps the thought will strike some of my
readers that I need not concern myself greatly
about the free flowering or otherwise of such
young trees, as they will surely not be allowed
to fruit this season. But they will, and the
greater part of them will each be expected to
produce not less than one dozen fruits. This
they will do without prejudice to future
prospects, the crop serving to check grossness,
without, however, unduly checking progress.
Planting maidens just prior to the commence-
ment of top and root growth, and in good sunny
positions, is a very different matter to sticking
in trained trees among old-established trees,
where, perhaps, they have to be started early
and are constantly otherwise at a disadvantage.
In our case the main stem broke freely and
strongly, but the sides of the house being un-
favourable to growth of branches to within 3 feet
of the ground, no shoots were allowed to form
below, and only four or five above that height.
These shoots, having all the strength of vigorous
young trees thrown into them, never checked in
their growth, but divided and in some cases
sub-divided, so that quite large trees were formed.
As will be seen, this is simply a modification of
the extension system, and the trees will be
aided to spread on much the same lines. Very
little pruning has been done, only the more
weakly shoots required for laying the founda-
tion of a serviceable tree having been freely
shortened back, and two or three badly ripened
ends cut off in the case of Crimson Gak.r.de,

already alluded to. All the rest have been re-
served to their full length and laid in thinly,
some of the stronger growths being depressed
somewhat, with a view to checking grossness
near the centres. They are so well rooted in
the border they shared at one time with
Tomatoes that 1 have every confidence in their
capability not only to give a crop averaging a
dozen apiece, but also for rapid extension.
This time Tomatoes and Kidney Beans in pots
will occupy the 3-feet width of border reserved
for the Peach trees, and these, with Veiteh's
climbing Kidney Bean, will largely occupy the
centre of the house till syringing may be safely
discontinued, when Tomatoes will again occupy
the centre.

It is the pampered, much- pruned trees that
seem most disposed to bud-dropping, unless,
indeed, it happens to be the variety that is at
fault. When they are planted in a rich border
of considerable extent and are hard pruned, the
growth is too full of sap to be really fruitful,
and the evil is aggravated accordingly. Severe
root-pruning or a bad attack of red spider will
perhaps be the means of bringing such trees
into a more fruitful state, but as far as growers
for sale are concerned, the less need there is for
such violent remedies the better it will be for
their pocket. Those who will insist upon fol-
lowing the old lines, and in particular zealously
removing all secondary shoots as fast as they
form, must not be surprised at the first-formed
shoots becoming too gross to be fruitful.
Whether the buds on these over-strong shoots
are malformed, or, what is more likely, become
disconnected when the wood is swelling the
most rapidly, matters little ; the result is what
concerns us the most. Those who find their
primary growths too vigorous to be fruitful
should reserve two or more secondary shoots on
these, and they will ripen under glass without
fail, always provided they are well exposed to
all the sunshine and light possible. Not only do
the secondary growths form and retain flower-
buds in abundance, but most of the ends of the
primary growths will also retain their buds. If
there is good room for extension, these leading
growths should not be pruned, but the side
shoots ought to be shortened to about half their
length at a joint where there is a central wood-
bud and two side flower-buds. Young trees
treated in this manner quickly cover their
allotted space or occupy the whole roof of a
small house, if need be, and are fruitful from
the first. W. Iggulden.

Melon Victory of Bath. — While fruit growers
are hankering after novelties in Melons, as in other
things, older and better tried varieties are apt to be
lost sight of in the craving for newer kinds. Although
Victory of Bath has been grown close upon twenty
years, it is still one of the best green-fleshed Melons
we have. Not only is its flavour of the best, but it
crops freely, and is not disposed to crack just when
ripening should take place, as is the case with some
others.— E. M.

Apple Lady Sudeley. — I grow over 100 trees
of this Apple and think most highly of it. Here
in our strong soil it grows well and bears freely,
the richly-coloured fruit selling well. It should
not remain upon the tree a day after it is ready to
gather, as it quickly becomes mealy. I do not
wonder at the thin crop obtained by Mr. Craw-
ford from trees grown as horizontal cordons,
because it is one of those Apples that fruit the best
from the points of the shoots. For this reason the
cordon method of growing it cannot be recom-
mended.— E. M.

Covering- the stems of outdoor Peach.
trees. — When at Barham Court in the autumn I
noticed that all the stems of the outside Peach
trees within 18 inches of the soil were covered
with pieces of Oak bark. Air. Woodward in-

February 16, 1895]

THE GARDEN

113

formed me that he believed the stems swelled
much more freely when protected from the fierce
heat of the sun during summer. Certainly the trees
in question were remarkably clean and luxuriant.
I know of no material better calculated to answer
the purpose named than Oak bark. Where this
cannot be had, virgin cork would answer equally
as well. — E. M.

Apple Cox's Orange Pippin.— To me it is
an astounding assertion to hear that too much
praise is accorded to Cox's Orange Pippin. In
this neighbourhood and further south— Devon— it
is considered the best dessert Apple, not only for
its fine flavour, but also for the freedom of
growth of the tree and plentiful crop that it bears.
1 have also heard it. said that as a standard or
half-standard tree it is a failure. My experience
is the opposite. Here in a strong soil it grows
vigorously, is free from canker, and crops abund-
antly, even when young. Bush - grown three-
year-old trees planted in the autumn of 1890 pro-
duced fifty really fine fruits in 1893. No difficulty
is ever experienced in obtaining 8b. per bushel for
good samples, while as much as 12s. have been
obtained. — E. M., Su-unmore Park.

Orchids.

HABENARIAS.

These cannot be regarded as popular plants'
although some of the species, if well grown,
compare favourably with others that obtain a
far greater share of attention from orchidists.
As some of the pi incipal cultivators seem to
have taken them in hand, however, it is to be
hoped that others will follow their example, and
that in future we shall see more of such fine spe-
cies as H. carnea and H. militaris. The genus is
widely distributed over the Old and New World,
at least four species, or perhaps more correctly
varieties, being included in our British flora.
The culture of the tropical kinds is by no means
difficult providing a sutheiently high and moist
temperature be maintained. If newly-collected
roots are procured they may with advantage
for the first season be grown in a compost con-
sisting largely of Sphagnum Moss, only a little
fibry loam and potsherds being added. This
will encourage the growth of the fleshy roots,
which it is of the utmost importance to keep
intact. Established plants require careful hand-
ling and should be potted in equal parts of peat,
bbry loam, and good leaf-mould, with chopped
Sphagnum and finely broken crocks to keep the
mixture open. Opinions vary as to the best
time for repotting, some cultivators choosing
the spring for this operation, others maintaining
that the most suitable time is immediately after
flowering and before the stems die down. This
is in order that the roots which are then pro-
duced are not afterwards disturbed. I have
personally had good results from repotting at
the latter season, but I am open to conviction,
and I think it would be very interesting if those
cultivators who have tried both would record
their experience for the benefit of readers of
The Garden. While growing freely the plants
may safely be treated as semi-aquatics, the soil
at no time being allowed to get quite dry. Less
water is of course required while at rest, and
they must be kept during this period in a cool
moist house. The hardy indigenous species are
easily grown on a sheltered shady border or
rockery, and if such as H. bifolia or H. chlo-
rantha once become established, they thrive
under trees or on the edges of shrubberies.
They like a rather tenacious loam containing a
good proportion of chalk. During the very dry
summer of 1893 I lifted many clumps of these
kinds while in flower from the woods in this

locality, and these are now well established on
a large rockery under the dense shade of Beech
trees, where little but Ivy and hardy Ferns
can be induced to flourish. The hardy North
American species thrive best in a lighter com-
post, Sphagnum, peat, and leaf-mould being the
chief constituents. They should be grown in a
sheltered position, and although they like shade
in summer, this must not be too dense, as after
flowering they require a certain degree of ripen-
ing. A covering of leaves or cocoa-nut fibre
refuse should be applied during winter to all
the hardy kinds, and a sharp look-out must be
kept for slugs and other insects in the spring.

H. bifolia is a native of Britain and common in
woods and pastures. The flowers are produced
in upright spikes ; they are white and deliciously
fragrant, especially in the evening or after a
shower.

H. chlorantha is a larger growing and flower-
ing kind. The nectary of this is more elongated,
forming a kind of spur. This is not so common
as H. bifolia. There are many intermediate forms
between these differing both in colour and size of
flower. This is also sweetly scented, and a fine
plant for a rockery.

H. albida is a very pretty little species, com-
mon in some parts, but rarer in others. It is not
so strong in growth as the preceding, and should
have a little peat or leaf-mould in the compost.
The bloom-spikes are about 6 inches high, and
bear about a couple of dozen of the pretty little
white flowers in late summer.

H. viridis is, as the name implies, a green-
flowered kind, and not so ornamental as either of
the preceding. It is easily grown, however, and
should be included in representative collections.
This also thrives well under trees in a damp
situation, where it grows about 6 inches high.

H. blephariclottis comes from North Ame-
rica, and is quite worth the little trouble neces-
sary to grow it well. The lower leaves are ob-
long, green, the spikes leafy, and bear a large
number of flowers, white, with a delicately
fringed lip. It attains a height of about 20
inches, and has a very graceful effect when in
flower.

H. ciliaris grows over a foot high and is some-
what similar to H. blephariglottis, but the flowers
are bright orange. This is also a native of North
America, and though an old plant in cultivation
is not often seen.

II. i'imbriata is a fine strong-growing species
from the same country. It produces in summer
long spikes, bearing a number of purple flowers
about an inch across, with a broad fringed lip.

H. CARNEA is an exceedingly tine and showy
species recently introduced from Singapore. The
flowers are large and bright flesh colour, fading
to white. The leaves are deep green with
white spots, making a very attractive plant even
before the flowers open. It requires the heat of
the East India house.

H. MILITARIS is the brightest and showiest in
the genus, being of the most brilliant scarlet in
front, the hooded portion lighter. The spikes
are leafy, crowned with loose racemes of flowers,
somewhat resembling a very brightly coloured
Calanthe Veitchi. This is a native of Tropical
Asia, and flowers in September and October.

H. margaritacea is not a showy-flowered spe-
cies, but has prettily variegated foliage. The
pure white blossoms are produced in summer.

H. SALACCENSIS is a native of one of the Sunda
Isles, and grows a foot high. The loose racemes
of flower are not very attractive. The petals are
narrow, dingy red, the sepals and lip greenish
white. It blossoms in May and June. A species
named

H. cinnararina was introduced some two
years ago. The flowers of this kind are described
as cinnabar-red, with deeper spots upon the
sepals. H. R.

Epidendrum cochleatum. — This is a curious
and distinct species which, although of very early

introduction, is now seldom met with. It appears
to have first flowered at Kew over one hundred
years ago, and is a native of the West Indies and
Central America, where it has a very extensive
range. It is also reported to have been discovered
growing in very limited numbers within the
United States of America. The peduncles grow
erect and terminate in a raceme of from five to
eight flowers. These have greenish-white sepals
and petals and a curious concave lip, which is pale
yellow blotche 1 on each side with maroon-purple.
The name is derived from the formation of the
lip. It should be grown in the Cattleya house.
It is now nicely in bloom with Mr. H. (irinling, of
Harrow Weald.— W. H. G.

ANGFLECUMS.
Not many of the species of this fine genus receive
the attention they deserve from cultivators, but
why it would be difficult to say, as they arc
nearly all free-flowering, useful plants. The
larger-growing kinds when in good condition
are very ornamental even when not in flower,
but when well flowered they are truly noble
objects. These should be grown in the warmest
house, and may be arranged on the central
stage, as they need not be close to the glass.
A good light position is, however, necessary,
and the plants thrive best in a somewhat drier at-
mosphere than Aerides or Phalamopsids requiro.
This latter is not absolutely necessary to their
well-being, but I mention it because, in arrang-
ing a miscellaneous house of plants, considera-
tion of these small details is of importance,
and the closer the wants of the individual species
are studied, the greater will be the success of
the cultivator. They must be grown in pots
large enough to take the roots easily, and these
should be tilled rather more than half their
depth with potsherds. Clean Sphagnum Moss
and charcoal should be used for the compost, the
fresh-growing points of the Moss being dibbled
neatly over the convex surface. The smaller-
growing kinds are most satisfactory in small
wooden baskets or shallow pans suspended not
far from the roof glass in the same house. The
baskets have a more rustic appearance, and the
plants thrive equally well in either, but they
usually transplant better from the pans than
when the roots have become much entwined
about the rods of the baskets. These also like
growing Sphagnum about their roots, but only
a mere surfacing is required, as the latter will
not thrive if deeply imbedded in the Moss.
They must never be dried, but while resting
less water is, of course, required than during
the growing season.

A. articdlatum is a pretty dwarf-growing
kind, the leaves being somewhat wedge-shaped,
about 5 inches in length. From the axils of these
the many- flowered racemes are produced. The
blossoms vary a good deal in size, form and
length of spur, this latter being very fine, and
when several are seen at a distance they have
almost the appearance of a deep white fringe.

A. < audatum grows about a foot high and pro-
duces in summer long racemes of flowers. These
are not very attractive in colouring, but remark-
able for the tail-like spur, which attains a length
of about 9 inches. This rare species is a native
of Sierra Leone.

A. ebfrneum is a very large-growing kind, with
light green, leathery leaves 18 inches in length.
The flower-spikes are produced in winter and early
spring and last a very long time in perfection.
They are rather stiff in appearance and the flowers
are greenish white, with the exception of the lip,
which is of the purest white.

A. eburneum superbum is superior to the type,
being larger and wholly pure white.

114

THE GARDEN.

[February 16, 1895

A. Ellisi is a charming Orchid, blooming in
mid-winter and sweetly scented. The flowers
occur on gracefully arching racemes and are pure
white, with the exception of the brown-tinted
spur. This was named after and introduced by
the late Rev. W. Ellis, who was a distinguished
traveller and writer on Orchids.

A. Sanderiantm, also known as A. modestum,
is of the dwarf-habited section, growing only a
few inches in height. The leaves are deep shining
green and form a delightful contrast to the pure
white flowers. These are produced in spring and
last a long time if kept dry. They are small,
with a spur 4 inches in length and a rather broad,
pointed lip.

A. sescjuipedale is well known and a truly
magnificent Orchid. The spikes bear from two
to four flowers, each 8 inches across, with a spur
occasionally 18 inches in length. This grows very
strongly, about 2 feet high, the leaves deep glau-
cous green, and 12 in. in length. The late-flower-
ing form of this Orchid is the better, being larger-
flowered than the type. Occasionally, owing to
being kept too cool during the winter, the lower
tiers of leaves fall, giving the plants an untidy,
lanky appearance. The present is a good time to
improve such plants by cutting them off below
the principal roots and setting them with the
lower leaves resting on the compost. This and all
the species named above, except A. caudatum,
are natives of Madagascar. There are many other
fine species in the genus, but these are perhaps
the best known and most desirable. H.

months. This kind enjoys being repotted annually.
This should be done when fresh roots are com-
mencing to grow. The Zygopetalums succeed
well with the Cattleyas, and during the summer
require to be shaded from the sun.

-W. H. G.

Calanthes at Harrow Weald House.—
This most useful winter-blooming Orchid is exceed-
ingly well grown by Mr. Rapley, and for some con-
siderable time past a fine display has been main-
tained. C. Turneri is largely grown, and its white
flowers are very welcome after those of C. vestita
lutea and C. v. rubro-oculata are over. C.
Turneri is a very distinct species from Java, and
produces finer spikes, with more blooms, the
rich rose coloured eyes contrasting well with the
other pure white parts of the flower. The charm-
ing hybrid C. Veitchi is here seen to perfection,
for not only is there a large quantity, but the
flowers are exceedingly fine, some of the spikes
measuring over 4 feet in length and bearing fifty-
seven blooms. Amongst others in flower very con-
spicuous were several plants of the now-seldom-
seen C. rosea, or, as it is perhaps better known,
Limatodes rosea. This is a most useful plant for
decoration, the flowers of a beautiful shade of rose,
from light to dark.

Zygopetalum crinitum. — This beautiful
plant is now flowering well in the collection of
Mr. H. Grinling, of Harrow Weald House. By
some authorities it is considered a distinct species,
whilst others place it as a variety of the popular
Z. Mackayi, which it very much resembles both
in growth and in the shape and colour of its
blooms, the latter being usually somewhat smaller.
The pseudo-bulbs are about 18 inches in length,
and the scape which springs from the base of the
bulbs often carries seven or eight fine flowers.
These individually are about 3 inches across, the
sepals and petals greenish-yellow, blotched with
purplish-brown, whilst the white lip is beautifully
veined with bright blue, these veins being fringed
with short hairs. This, however, is the best va-
riety, for there appears to be another form in cul-
tivation which is very similar in every respect,
but having the veining on the lip of a rosy-pink
colour, which is neither so attractive nor beautiful
as in the preceding. This fine plant is a native
of Brazil, where it grows abundantly on the Organ
Mountains. It first made its appearance in this
country just sixty years ago, and should find a
place in every collection, however small, on account
of its easy cultivation, for not only is it one of the
most easily managed Orchids, but the same must
be said of the majority of sorts in this genus.
The plants should be potted in fibrous peat and
Sphagnum Moss, and a little silver sand added,
with good drainage, for they enjoy a plentiful
supply of water, especially during the summer

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Odontoglossum Cervantesi roseum. — I

recently noticed a remarkably highly-coloured form of
this fine plant carrjing several tine racemes of flowers.
These individually were large and of good substance,
with the usual curious markings of rich brown at the
base of each segment, the whole suffused with deep
rose. It is a very fine variety.— W.

Maxillaria venusta. — This is a very showy spe-
cies, producing fine blooms, quite 6 inches across the
lower sepals. The sepals are spreading, pure white,
the petals also white, but much smaller and standing
out almost parallel with the clavate column; the lip
is short and fleshy in textuie and of a brownish yellow
on the upper surface. This Haxillaria is a native of
Venezuela and New Grenada, and is a striking object
when in flower. — W.

Garden Flora,
plate 1001.

AUTUMN OR WINTER DAFFODILS.
(with a coloured plate of steknbergia ma-

OKANTHA.*)

The accompanying plate represents a class of
bulbs to which far too little attention is giveu,

A clump of the Winter Daffodil (Stertibergia lutea)

and for this lack of interest the uncertain charac-
ter of our late autumn and winter months is,
no doubt, accountable. The yellow Crocuses
help to carry us through the dull months, but
the flowers of the Sternbergias, being of much
firmer texture, are able to withstand a far
greater amount of bad weather than those of
the Crocuses, and are thus better adapted for
our climate. One great source of failure with
Sternbergias and many others of a like nature
is the fact of their being frequently grown in
such positions as to necessitate their being dis-
turbed at the wrong time or before growth has
fully developed. In one or two gardens I have
seen these grown in flower borders and lifted

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon in the
Royal Gardens, Kew. Lithographed and printed by
Guillaume Severeyns.

early to make room for bedding plants, and the
wonder was that they never flowered. What
these Sternbergias want chiefly is, thorough
ripening in summer and a slight protection,
such as dry litter, &c, during the winter. It
will depend upon the nature of the soil, as well
as the position in which the bulbs are grown,
whether they will have to be lifted or not. If
the soil is heavy and clayey, the best plan will
be to lift the bulbs when the leaves have died
down and let them ripen, in the same way as
those of Anemone fulgens, &c. In light sandy
soil and fully exposed to the sun, the bulbs will
in all probability get the necessary ripening
without being lifted, and in this case the only
plan will be to leave them undisturbed until
they attain flowering size.

The species, as described and arranged by
Mr. Baker, are as follows : —

S. colchiciflora.— This is one of the old gar-
den plants, having been cultivated by Clusius
and Parkinson — by the former as Narcissus per-
sicus, and by the latter under the name of the
lesser autumn or winter Daffodil (Narcissus
autumnalis minor). It is described as possessing
the most delicious fragrance, and perfuming, with
its Jessamine-scented flowers, the fields of the
Crimea, especially about the Bosphorus. The
leaves are narrow, linear, and produced along
with the fruit in spring. The flowers appear in
autumn at about the same time as those of S.
lutea, perianth segments nearly 1| inches long,
and of a very pleasing pale or sulphur-yellow. It
is found on dry exposed positions on the Cauca-
sian Mountains, Crimea, &c, and is perfectly
hardy in this country, treated in the same way as
S. lutea. S. dalmatica and S.
pulchella are varieties.

S. Clusiana (Ker, not Boissier).
— Narcissus persicus (Clusius),
Amaryllis citrina, A. colchiciflora,
S. a-tnensis, and S. Schuberti are
synonyms.

S. Fischeriana is nearly allied,
and has the habit of S. lutea, from
which it differs chiefly in flower-
ing in spring instead of autumn,
and by its stalked ovary and cap-
sule. It is a native of the Cau-
casus, perfectly hardy in this
country, and is the Oporanthus
Fischerianus of Herbert's " Ama-
ryllidacea?," 46.

S. lutea. — This is the great
autumn or winter Daffodil (Nar-
cissus autumnalis major) of Par-
kinson. The absence of seed on
this bulb in a cultivated state is
rather remarkable, seeing how
plentiful it is and also how pro-
fusely it flowers in many parts of
the country. The only seed I have
seen has been obtained from dried
specimens collected in the neigh-
bourhood of Palestine. The same
experience has been recorded by
Dean Herbert in his " Amaryllidacese."

My experience leads me to the conclusion that
the bulbs must be large before they will flower
freely, and, as is usually the case with imported
bulbs, they are generally small and will take a
year or two to attain flowering size. S. lutea has
five or six leaves, each about half an inch broad,
about a foot long, and produced at the same time
as the flowers in autumn and winter. It is the
Amaryllis lutea of the Botanical Magazine (290),
Oporanthus luteus of Herbert's " Amaryllidacea;,"
and is supposed by some writers to be the Lily of
Scripture, as it grows abundantly in the vales
around Palestine, ftc.

S. angdstifolia appears to be merely a narrow-
leaved form of S. lutea. It is very free-flowering,
and grows rather more freely than S. lutea.

S. ORiECA, from the mountains of Greece, has
very narrow leaves and broad perianth segments.

MM

f

»as

~

VS

T

^

STERNBEF. M/ ^.ANI

February 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

115

S. sicula is a form with narrower leaves and
segments than the type, while the Cretan variety
has considerably larger flowers.

S. macrantha.— This, introduced by Mr. Whit-
tall from the mountains of Smyrna, is a really
handsome species, as will be seen by the coloured
plate. The leaves are blunt and slightly glaucous,
about an inch broad when fully developed about
midsummer, flowers bright yellow, produced in
autumn. A native of Palestine, Syria, Western
Persia, Asia Minor, &c. D. Dewar.

Botanic Gardens, Glasgow.

The Week's Work.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Bananas, home-grown. — These are now largely
grown in private gardens for dessert, and those
who have a liking for them well know the value
of those home grown. Now is a good time to
make a start where it is intended to take up their
culture, and many who possess modern houses
can grow the Cavendishi variety, as this kind is
dwarf and fruits freely and quickly. I saw a house
containing six plants planted some eighteen
months ago. These had borne on an average
67 lbs. weight each, and in a period of fifteen
months. The value of M. Cavendishi is its dwarf
compact habit, compared with that of other kinds.
The plants range from 6 feet to 7 feet high and
they require far less heat than others. Many
can find space for this plant who have only
medium-sized houses ; indeed, in such houses
better fruits can be had than in those where the
plants are a long way from the glass. I consider
M. paradisiaca the best, but few can grow it, as
it requires so much room. It produces a small
fruit in comparison to its size and immense leaves.
M. sapientum is nearly as large, but bears a
much larger bunch. In my opinion it is not
superior in quality to the first-named dwarf use
ful variety, as it takes longer to make a plant and
the fruits are longer in ripening when formed.
There are various forms of this variety, some
nearly green, others with dark or purple fruits.
Most of them attain a height of 20 feet and have
leaves each 10 feet to 12 feet long. These three
varieties are about the best for house culture if
the fruits are grown for dessert.

Culture of the plants at starting. — I have
advised a suitable house for the plants, but it
must not be thought that the plants cannot be
grown in pots, tubs or in a restricted area, as in
the latter they do well. To get rapid growth it
is essential to grow in rich soil, and maintain a
high temperature and a humid atmosphere during
growth. The plants fruit freely with only top-
heat, but are much longer about. In making a
bed for the roots give abundant drainage and
2 feet to 2| feet of clear soil, and if possible re-
strict each plant to a certain space. The plants
should face south, so that they can get the full
sun most of the day in a span-roofed house.
Bananas like a strong loamy soil, with manure
(well decayed) and such aids as bone-meal or
other fertiliser. As they require plenty of water
during growth, it is well to add broken charcoal
to the soil to keep it sweet. Plant firmly and
water sparingly at the start. When the plants
are purchased one cannot obtain them so large as
one would like. It is not well to plant weak
suckers with only a few roots. I would prefer to
pot up the suckers till they have filled 8-inch or
10-inch pots, and plant out in April or May. If
potted up now and plunged in a warm bed, good
plants will be had in from six weeks to eight
weeks. Such plants will start well when planted
out and fruit freely next spring; whereas if
planted out in a small state, especially when
there is no bottom-heat, they present a miserable
appearance all the year, and in some cases do not
fruit at all. There is much gained by growing
as advised, as the plants are in condition to rest
during November and December. Having made

a strong growth, they may be kept cooler and
drier at the roots during the time named, and
will then throw up fruits during the spring, such
fruits being appreciated in the late summer or
autumn. I have advised a restricted root space.
This is to hasten ripening or formation of fruit,
as when there is a too free root-run fruits are not
so reliable. A bed 2 feet to 3 feet deep and 3 feet
to 4 feet square will grow good fruits if room is
not plentiful. The temperature at the start
should be 70° to 80° by day, 65° to 70° by night,
with an unlimited supply of atmospheric mois-
ture. Fruiting in pots is very much like that
advised above. Now is a good time to make a
start. Give bottom-heat at first, and do not over-
pot. I prefer to get the plants into 10-inch pots
before shifting them into their fruiting ones.

Hardy fruits. — With protracted frost in most
parts of the country, the work in this department
lias not made much progress. With open weather
there should be no delay, and the pruning of most
kinds of fruit trees should be finished, as many of
the earlier varieties will soon be on the move. The
work in the orchard should not now be neglected.
Any old standard trees that have been neglected
of late years may with advantage receive atten-
tion in the way of pruning, removal of cross wood
or barren growths thus admitting light and air.
I do not advise severe pruning or topping of
branches as is at times practised, but much may
be done by timely thinning and admission of more
sun and light. The training of all wall fruits, with
the exception of Peaches. Nectarines, and Figs,
should be finished. I am glad to see the trees have
benefited by the severe weather, as the buds are
not so prominent as they were last season early in
December. In the case of newly-planted trees it
is not advisable to prune till late in March or
early April, merely cutting or shortening long
shoots. Many good fruit growers do not advise
even this the first season, but much depends on
the vigour of the trees when planted and soil and
situation. The planting of all fruit trees should
be brought to a close as early in March as possible,
as in light, gravelly soils they suffer in a hot, dry
summer. After planting, a good mulch of
decayed manure with a little rougher material
on the surface should be given. Staking
newly-planted trees should not be neglected,
giving them ample space to grow. From
Fig trees on walls that have been very thickly
covered, a small portion should be removed as the
season advances. Apricot trees on south-west
aspects promise well, and should get protection
ere long. I have found a simple and efficient pro-
tection is to use stout Bamboo rods secured to the
wall at the top and lightly pushed into the soil at
the base, covering with a double thickness of
inch-mesh net. This admits liedit and answers
thoroughly.

Strawberries. — The older plantations will re-
pay surface cleansing and removal of weeds
and old decayed leaves, mulching with decayed
manures. In light soils this dressing is important,
as the roots get bare on the surface and the new-
material gives these a start and builds up the
plants. In gardens where the soil is light and
manure none too plentiful, I have used such aids
as old beds of Melon or Cucumber pits with a
good portion of heavy soil. Previous to placing
the manures on the surface do not fork or dig the
surface, merely hoe lightly and remove weeds.
The frost will have lifted the young plants which
were planted last August or September. These
should be trodden in firmly before hoeing between
the rows. When the weather is open is a suitable
time to apply liberal dressings of soot between
the rows.

Bush fruits. — The pruning of Currants and
Gooseberries should now be finished by this date;
the pruning of the latter is often deferred till the
last moment on account of the birds. I always
prune early and net over, as otherwise it is im-
possible to get a crop. In pruning, well thin out
the head to facilitate gathering the fruit, cutting
away the growth lying on the soil and removing
all suckers. The trees well repay a good surface
dressing of rich manures. Should the cater-

pillar have been troublesome, it is well to draw
away the surface soil, wheeling it away and
giving a good dressing of fresh lime before giving
new soil. If nets are not available it is well to
syringe the trees after pruning with quassia
water, and then dust over whilst damp with
quicklime. It is necessary to dress Currants also,
as the birds soon spoil a quarter if not checked.
The same remarks apply to Currants as regards
manure at the roots in the form of surface dress-
ings. Young trees that are being grown now to
form new plantations should be replanted, as by
change of soil better growth is secured, and
crowding in a young state will spoil the shape
of the trees. G. Wythes.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Tomatoes. — Where winter fruiting plants have
plenty of room to extend, the latest formed growth
will now be furnished with a good percentage of
blooms. These if carefully fertilised will set with
more certainty than the December and January
formed flowers. Fertilise daily at noon, with-
holding floor sprinklings until the afternoon, as
at this date Tomatoes are benefited rather than
otherwise by a comparatively dry atmosphere, a
more wiry and fertile growth being thereby en-
couraged. If the plants are not standing too
closely together, a few shoots may be trained up
from the bottom, say one on each side, to pro-
duce fruit later on and thus keep up a succession.
Remove at once all side laterals and top-dress as
soon as new white feeders appear on the surface,
adding or withholding a fertiliser, according to
the strength of the plants. During the continu-
ance of bad weather, 00° to 82° as a night tem-
perature will be the best for the plants, 65° being
allowed when mild and open. A little air must
be given on all sunny days, but draughts strictly
guarded against, as the tissues of the young leaves
are very tender. Young plants raised from seed
sown in January will now be sufficiently advanced
to need support. Neat sticks should be used and
the ligatures left rather slack, as Tomato stems
swell very rapidly. Arrange the plants close to
the gla^s and water very carefully, especially
where heat is deficient, or the "yellows" may set
in and ruin the batch. Upon no account should the
syringe be used overhead, and a dry atmosphere
at nightfall should be maintained till the weather
gets warmer.

Vegetables in frames. — Early Potatoes and
Currants being brought on by means of hotbeds
have had an unfavourable time lately. With from
16° to 20° of frost and cutting winds for many
nights in succession, not only double mats, but
thick coverings of long litter or Bracken have
been necessary to keep the interior of the frames
in anything like a comfortable, not to say forcing
condition. As much outdoor labour has been
impracticable, there has been ample opportunity
for adding fresh heating material to the surface
of the linings, this being elevated, so as to come
on a level with the lights, and well trodden.
Extra coverings in case of continued frost
must also be given to all tender crops growing in
frames, hand-lights containing Cauliflowers and
ridges of late Celery, as it is now certain that
great breadths of greens of all descriptions, in-
cluding Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage sprouts, late
spring Broccoli, and even some of the Kales have
already succumbed to the intense frost, and that
the demand for young transplanting stuff will be
greater this spring than usual. Lettuces at the
foot of south walls, which are safe in any ordinary
winter, must be covered with some littery mate-
rial where the wall has kept the snow from falling
on the plants.

Early Cos Lettuce — Where much salad is in
demand early in the season and a good quantity of
plants of the old Brown Cos were framed in
October, with a view to removal to the garden
during February and March, it is a good plan in
such seasons as the present to thin out the plants,
leaving every second one to develop. If the frames
are wanted for other things, they may be carefully

11 G

THE GARDEN

[February 1G, 18J-5

lifted with a good ball of soil and transplanted
into rough, home made frames, and protected at
night for a time. A scarcity is thus avoided.
Lettuce quickly 'respond to a moderate dressing
of any safe artificial manure sprinkled on the
surface and raked in. All batches taken from
frames or pits and planted in the open ground will
be the better for a screen of Yew boughs for a
fortnight or three weeks, even when under a
south wall. Mildew and damp are often very
troublesome after a thaw, to counteract which a
free use should be made of wood ashes, and the
lights tilted instead of being drawn off in rainy
weather. Where Hardy Hammersmith or All the
Year Round Cabbage Lettuce were given frame
protection these will now be invaluable, being
full-hearted.

Autumn Giant Cauliflower. — It does not ap-
pear to be generally known that Autumn Giant
if sown in autumn with Early London and Wal-
cheren, protected through the winter, and put
out in March, will do equally as well as any other
sort, and afford fine heads from the middle to the
end of July. Where this is not practised, seed
may now be sown of both Autumn Uiant .and
Self-protecting Autumn Broccoli. The former
will then be fit for use immediately after the sum-
mer batches of Pearl and Walcheren are over and
before the open-air March - sown batches of
Autumn Giant are fit for use. Boxes answer well
for sowing the seed in, and an intermediate tem-
perature best favours germination. As soon as
the seedlings are fit for handling, thin out freely,
as crowded plants soon become affected by the
disorder known as blacklegs, which carries them
off wholesale. At this stage a cool greenhouse
with plenty of light and air suits them well until
fit for pricking out into a frame or larger boxes.
The Self-protecting Broccoli will heart in in Oc-
tober, and March sowings in the open will follow
on through November and December.

The earliest Celery. — The present is a good
time to sow a pinch of Celery for a supply during
September. A sufficiently large box should be
used, so that the seedlings may not crowd each
other after being thinned out, as a weakly consti-
tution prone to bolting is engendered by too
limited a space in infancy. Drain the boxes well
and use light friable soil passed through a half-
inch sieve, covering the seed very thinly with still
finer material, and standing the boxes in a tem-
perature of not more than 55 J ; more than this is
injurious. Immediately the first rough leaves are
formed, prick out into larger boxes or on to a gentle
warm bed if such can be afforded. Air can then
be given as the plants increase in size and full
exposure take place in April. Coddling is the
greatest evil attending the raising of both early and
later batches of Celery. For an early white variety
Sandringham is still hard to beat, while Early
Kose is a first rate red variety. Late Celery and
that grown for flavouring may on the disappear-
ance of frost be lifted and removed to a north
aspect and carefully laid in, the ground being
made firm round the roots as the work proceeds.
It can then be covered in case of late frosts, and
the ground turned up and got in readiness for
other crops.

Asparagus beds. — Many beds of this esteemed
vegetable established on heavy soils and in low-
lying districts cannot be surface-manured in au-
tumn or early winter ; indeed, on any but the
lightest warmest soils and in elevated positions
the system is not to be commended. The present
month is the best time for the work. Fish manure
is a capital stimulant laid on moderately, and will
retain its strength better if slightly covered with
light leafy refuse. I have seen very good results
on very sandy soil from an application of pig
manure in March, this being in a semi-decayed
state and well saturated with tho urine, the same
being left on all the summer and the refuse raked
off in autumn when the grass is cut down. If the
summer should be dry this covering keeps the
beds in a moist condition. Guano is a capital
manure for heavy soils.
Herb beds. — Weather permitting, the herb
order should be seen to and all exhausted stocks

renewed. Thyme, both the common and Lemon
varieties, may be increased by division, as also
Sage, Tarragon, and Mint ; in fact, the majority of
herbs are best treated in this way. Some good
fresh soil and decayed manure should be mixed in
if the old sites have to be used again, but fresh
ground where at command is preferable. After
planting, a mulch of rough leaf-mould or spent
Mushroom manure will protect the newly-dis-
turbed roots.

Forwarding early crops. — As, owing to the
continued frosts, early sowings of Peas and
Beans, also planting of first early varieties of
Potatoes, are some time later than usual, those
who do not, as a rule, forward these under glass
will do well to do so this season. Peas sown in
small pots or boxes and placed in a genial warmth
soon germinate, as also do Broad Beans, and after
due hardening are planted out with little labour ;
thus the unfavourable effects of a snowy February
may be greatly modified. As digging and general
garden work will be plentiful as soon as the
ground can be trodden upon, manure wheeling
should be completed with all speed, as even if
enow lies on the ground, a passage can be cut
with shovels and the manure tipped into this.

Seed cupboard. — As soon as the new seeds
come to hand a thorough cleansing should be given
to the seed cupboard, each new package being
laid most conveniently according to the time it
will be wanted for sowing. Do not rely on old
seed. J. Crawford.

GARDEN SKETCHES.
Chapter IX.

ct Season of mist and mellow fruitfulnpss,
Close bosom-frieud of the maturing sun."

Keats.

August 3. — This evening falls the touch of
autumn over hill and dale. The day has been
one of dark clouds and showers. Now, towards
sunset, the sky is clear, and an amber light falls
aslant the valley. A wandering breeze ripples
gently across the ripening corn and silvers the
bending Willows as they yield their slender
leaves to be turned aside. A purple glow on the
hill-tops shows the heather in bloom, and
lengthened shadows fall from the scattered
woodland. In the distance the sea is deeply
blue like a sapphire, flecked here and there with
a white sail moving onward, while passing down
to the shore come the gently flying seagulls
with arched wings gleaming white against the
deepening shadows.

The Rowan tree with its clustered berries of
coral-red proclaims the harvest of the black-
birds, and the Japanese Roses are covered with
crimson and orange fruit. A little while ago
the white variety was very lovely, the milk-
white blossoms and glowing berries mingling
together, for the hips, like miniature Mandarin
Oranges, were ripe much earlier than usual
this season. These Japan Roses (Rosa rugosa)
can be propagated by seed sown when ripe,
and though there is a few years' waiting to
be gone through ere they blossom, one has the
reward of different tints among the flowers, and
' any one specially beautiful can be increased by
; suckers, which healthy plants send up freely. A
sunny position seems needed for luxuriant fruit-
ing, but the roots appear to enjoy a free and
moist soil. Where there is room for hedges
of these shining-leaved Roses they would be
I very beautiful, and their passing away in robes
of gold and crimson would light up many a day
in "chill October." Tall Gladioli that have
caught the western sun in the flower border rise
like a flame from the earth, while the pure white
blossoms of Anemone japonica are fresh and
cool as they ramble through a shadier spot.
This Anemone resents being disturbed, but as

the finest flowers are from fresh offsets or run-
ners, new plantations require to be made fron»
time to time, the dense and older portions be-
ing thrown away. It does not seem particular
as to soil or position, but left to colonise itself
under tbe light shadow of trees is perhaps its
happiest home, for there in the dusky setting
the blossoms gleam like wandering stars.

In the rock garden a group of Hydrangea
paniculata has bending branches of creamy
plumes, seen against the deep crimson of
Montbretias clustered beside it. An under-
growth of some soft-tinted Viola would be
lovely beneath these drooping panicles of bloom.
This Hydrangea requires severe cutting back
each spring to make it blossom freely. The
Plume Poppy (Bocconia cordata), with its erect
growth, makes a fine break among low-growing
shrubs ; its glaucous leaves and wands of gold-
brown buds, expanding into a white misty bloom,
remain in perfection for a length of time, and
they are exquisite arranged in a Japanese jar of
red, white and gold. In a rich border it becomes
too coarse and rampant, but a more repressed
growth in a poorer soil quite alters its character
to delicate grace. The blooms of Oenothera
macrocarpa are flowing over a rocky ledge. The
charm of these flowers is their little spotted
tiger skins in which the buds are wrapped, and
which they toss to one side as they expand ; the
blossoms also change to apricot hue when fading
away. Acsena microphylla is quite a sheet of
bloom, with spiny globes of rose-pink clustered
together. Liuaria alpina is a rock gem, with
its lovely purple flowers and stain of orange at
the lip, and leafage into which the purple hue
seems to have flowed. It seeds so freely around,
that young plants are to be found far and near,
the cinder path being specially to their taste.
A mass of the white Campanula pumila falling
over a rocky ledge has been a miniature cascade
of blossom, with its low, dense growing bells
tumbling over the stones.

August 20. — A few misty mornings have
brought us that most exquisite sight, the
spiders' webs bedewed with moisture ! From
every Lily's petal, from every Rose tree's
branch, from every stem that holds a bud or
blossom, are hung these gossamer webs. It is
a sudden revelation. Where nothing seemed
before, now we behold these intangible veils
suspended from leaf to leaf, from flower to
flower, and strung on every thread with infini-
tesimal pearls of moisture. So strongly do
they show on the dark Berberis trees, that they
suggest the idea of fairies' linen hung out to
dry, linen of such gossamer texture as only
spirits would don. But no sooner have the
sun's rays dispersed the mist than the vision of
beauty is gone.

Warm days have come once more after wind
and rain. The grain has been harvested, and
golden sheaves are laid together in the dis-
tant fields. The late Clover is full of mur-
muring bees and scents the air, and fields from
which the hay has been gathered early show
like emeralds amid the golden setting of
ripened corn. The autumn Lilies are with us
now. Lilium tigrinum makes a grand clump in
the border, slowly opening and lasting from
week to week in beauty, its rich warm colour
showing up well against the dark evergreen
background. It passes through storm and rain
quite fearlessly, and asks but little more than
a good top-dressing in November. Lilium spe-
ciosum, pink and white, is lovely springing up
among the China Roses.

The Tritomas, with their torches all alight,
have sent a glow throughout the garden. John
Benary, a variety entirely crimson, seems almost
to burn with a ruby lig'at, so intense is its

February 1G, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

117

crimson glow. These Tritomas are splendid for
grouping where they can be seen against the
sea or far-off hills. In a more limited space
they are very fine against the fresh growth of
young Fir trees with their bluish-grey hue, or
in front of the climbing Virginian Vine, as it
changes in tint to deep maroon. The best time
for moving or division of these plants is during
the month of April. They will then start
quickly into growth, and if given an open sunny
position and good rich soil, will rapidly become
strong clumps. The earliest Starworts are now
in bloom. How completely the beauty of these
Western Daisies is lost when they are tied to-
gether in a bundle and fastened to a stake, all
the grace of their stems destroyed and no possi-
bility of blossoms developing but at the summit.
How charming would an alley be of the taller
kinds left to themselves to toss and fall and
mingle at their own sweet will — a delicious
boundary of soft and tender colouring such as
all our efforts could not produce. Where grow-
ing in a border, a few slight leafless branches
.stuck among them will generally afford sufficient
support, and when a spray falls down and
tiowers in that position, how beautiful it is !
One of the most graceful Michaelmas Daisies is
Aster elegans, the entire length of the stems
being covered with sprays of pale mauve
flowrets, so that the whole plant has the appear-
ance of a haze of blossom. As these Starworts
rapidly exhaust the soil, constant root -division
is needful, the ground being well enriched when
replanting. As the plants grow it is well in
the early stage to thin out some of the stems,
as the remainder have then room to spread, and
a few stems seen in perfection of leaf and
blossom in their entire length are far better
than a whole mass smothering each other and
with the base of the stems sere and yellow.
Position does not seem of as much consequence
to the Starworts as a deep and fertile root-
run. Rudbeckia Newmani is luxuriating in the
late moisture ; the rich orange-yellow discs with
dark velvety centres make a fine flower group,
especially just beneath the deep crimson leaves
<>f the Virginian Creeper that is climbing over
the garden wall. A handful of these rich sprays
and leaves with the flowers of the Rudbeckia
.ire lovely together. A little further off against
the wall is a bush of Crataegus Pyracantha,
with its brilliant scarlet fruitage. A brick wall
clothed with these glowing berries that seem
to set it all afire is a sight not easily forgotten,
while in spring the white lace-work of blossoms
is almost as fair to see, and the deep green foli-
age that bears rough storm so bravely is cheer-
ful all the winter through.

Very lovely are the Cyclamens now appearing
over ground. One always finds them at first in
bloom with a little start of rapture. They seem
to have arisen so suddenly where nothing was
before, and where the corms are large so as to
produce hundreds of blossoms, their beauty is
prolonged considerably ; then as the flowers
cease, uprise the finely mottled leaves to re-
main in beauty until the burning sun of an-
other year's July. Seen to-day with white and
rose-pink blossoms bordering the bed of Ivy-
leaved Geraniums, they are charming, but still
more so as they nestle in groups under the
Deodar on the lawn, where at one side a few
low branches were crushed to death by a tree
since then removed.

The Sachalien Knot Grass (Polygonum sacha-
lineuse), in flower at present, has been hitherto
known to us for its graceful flowering wands,
beloved of the bees, but in this season of pro-
longed drought its claims as a forage plant have
been brought forward prominently through the
writings of M. Doumet-Adanson and by expe-

riments carried out in different parts of France
with success. It has been calculated that grown
for green fodder the yield would be per acre of
from 60 tons to 120 tons. The vigour of this
plant is irrepressible. Even in the hard-trodden
pathway the young growths push upward, and
for many yards around fresh rhizomes will press
along underground and spring up in the most
unexpected places. To ensure a beautiful group
of this Knot Grass, the young growths must be
thinned out when they appear in spring so as
to allow of those left attaining to their full size.
The panicled clusters of greenish white blos-
soms slightly drooping from the red leaf stems
clothe the plant in early autumn, while later on
the change of leaf robes it in amber. Even
when the foliage falls its beauty is not yet over,
for the tall wands of purple-red are still hand-
some and need not be cut down till the suc-
ceeding spring. This Polygonum was discovered
by a Russian botanist named Maximowicz when
exploring the island of Sachalien, which lies in
the Sea of Okhotsk, between Siberia and Japan,
from whence it was first brought to Russia about
the year 1809. It is readily increased by root
division in spring or autumn, and once planted
no further care is necessary save to chop away
the spreading rhizomes, as otherwise they would
take entire possession of whatever spot of soil
they may be in.

Tropajolum speciosum is in its pretty seed
stage, those clustered seed-vessels of gem-like
blue that make the plant still interesting when
the flame of blossom has swept by. This
Tropreolum is in full sunshine, but its root is
safe and cool beneath, shaded by the thick
branching Cotoneaster that climbs by the en-
trance steps of the dwelling-house. Through
these branches the Tropseolum creeps in spring-
time, and once free, flings itsdelicate stems across
the deep green shrub, resting on which it
flowers contentedly all through the summer
days.

Since rain has fallen the Acers have made
rapid growth, and when the sunbeams pass
through the young leafage it shines with a
burning light that is quite indescribable.
During the dry weather they scarcely made any
visible growth, but now the fresh shoot3 are
most brilliant. Although these trees from
Japan seem to revel in the sunshine, they also
need much root moisture.

A bed has just been prepared in a sheltered
spot for cuttings of all kinds, Pansies and
hardy plants, and all sorts of flowering shrubs.
Even if not needed for oneself, it is well to
have an overflow for the friends that visit one's
garden, and to be handed a plant with a root
appears always a much greater gift than when
one is merely given a slip or cutting. The
giving away of plants seems ever to increase
one's own. The plant that is divided appears
to flourish better. The half that is left be-
comes more vigorous from having greater space
and ceasing to be exhausted in its search for
nourishment, so that giving is gain in the
garden as well as elsewhere through life, and
no lesson do the flowers more strongly teach
us than that of " freely ye have received, freely
give." Cuttings put in now root freely while
the ground is still warm, and are ready to
plant out in October or in the following
spring.

In the rock garden Sedum spectabile has
taken the place of the Eryngiums now past in
drawing to it a crowd of red admiral butterflies
and large bumble bees, that rest intoxicated on
its great bosses of rose-pink bloom. The
charm of this Sedum lies in its thus gathering
to itself the beautiful winged insect life around,
which makes it so conspicuous in the sunny

autumn mornings. Gazama splendens is too
seldom seen in our gardens, and yet it is a
gorgeous blossom with rays of ruddy gold set in
leaves of silvered lining. Sunshine it must
have, as only then will it expand and show the
inner circle of dark Argos eyes. Save in warm
localities, it will not survive the winter, but
cuttings taken now will form good plants for
the following year. L. A. L.

(To be continued.)

Stove and Greenhouse.

CAMELLIAS UNHEALTHY.
B. C. Mansfield's second letter explains what
we surmised, that the border is at fault. Oppo-
site extremes will both act injuriously to the
plants. In your case it does not by your own
showing proceed from dryness at the roots. The
border is evidently in a bad state, if border it can
be called. This is affecting the roots — the fact of
the soil remaining " very wet and pasty for a long
time after watering" would account for this. The
way in which the plants were planted out in
square holes was a mistake. They have never
taken kindly to the soil outside of these holes,
hence the roots are confined to a limited space —
far worse than if starved at the roots in pots or
tubs. The attempt to force them into flower so
as to have a good quantity of bloom at Christmas
cannot but end in failure whilst the present con-
dition of things exists at the roots. In forcing
Camellias the treatment should vary from what is
accepted as the usual mode of procedure in forc-
ing. To force the plants to expund their flowers
is not congenial to them. What should be done
is to hasten the growth as soon as it commences
after flowering, continuing to give warmth until
the new shoots and leaves are quite hardened. To
give an example of flowering Camellias early, I
will quote an instance which will give an idea of
the correct treatment. The Camellias in question
were planted out against the back wall of an early
Peach house. Here they made and finished or
ripened their growths early, flowering before and
during Christmas-time whilst the house was still
cool or before any heat was applied for the Peaches
themselves. This illustrates the plan to adopt in
as clear a manner as possible. The plants in
question may make a fairly good growth. Camel-
lias will do this and yet fail to flower satisfactorily.
The best remedy will be to lift the plants care-
fully, saving all the healthy roots as far as pos-
sible, and then remove all of the soil in which they
were planted, as well as that surrounding the
holes. Then drain the border with broken rubble,
old brick-bats, clinkers or potsherds, as the case
may be, providing also by means of pipes an
escape for the water. On the drainage place a
layer of the coarsest peat and loam and make the
border up with the same kind of soils in about
equal parts with sand or road scrapings, but much
rougher than in pot plants. Around the roots
some finer soil may be needed, finishing off by
making all firm. Then with one good watering at
once and frequent syringings afterwards the plants
should soon start into fresh growth.

Southron.

Luculia gratissima. — This greenhouse shrub
will grow freely enough in almost any situation
provided the soil is free and the drainage good,
but to get it to flower it must have a maximum
amount of sun. Where this is deficient growth
may be rampant, but the bloom trusses never
develop. A sunny greenhouse or conservatory
freely aired throughout the summer suits the
plants well, enabling the growth to mature and
the trusses to open in autumn. A compost con-
sisting of good fibrous peat or three parts peat to
one of loam with some opening material added
suits the plants well, and when in full growth
plenty of water must be given with a stimulant
once a week.— J. C.

118

THE GARDEN.

[February 16, 1895.

SIMI>LER FLOWER GARDEN PLANS

AND BEDS.

What a vision opens out to anyone who
really considers the design of the flower
garden when he thinks of the curiosities and
vexations in forms of beds in almost every
land where a flower garden exists! The
unfortunate gardener is the heir — to his great
misfortune — of much useless complexity and
frivolous design, born of applying conven-
tional design to the ground. These designs
come to us from a remote epoch, and the
designing of gardens being from very early
times in the hands of " artists" and decorators,
the garden was subjected to their will, and

smaller, soon got out of order, and after a few
years the whole thing was painful to see.
And good gardeners were losing their time
trying to plant paltry beds in almost every
frivolous device known to the art of conven-
tional "twirling."

Even where such extravagances as these
were never attempted we see the evil of
the same ideas, and in many gardens the
idea of adapting the beds to the ground often
never occurs to the designer. If the ground
does not suit the plan, so much the worse for
the ground and all who have to work on it.

By some people this objection on my
part to conventional design is mistaken for
an objection to formility itself altogether.

ground and to suit the ground. Our ob-
ject should be to see the flowers and not the
beds, so that while we have all the advantage
of mass and depth of soil, and all the good
a bed can give for convenience of working or
excellence of growth, we take little pride in its
form, and plant it so that we may see the pic-
turesque, effects of the plants and flowers and
forget in the picture the form of the bed.

The relation of the beds to each other is
worth considering, because, generally, it is
much too complex and close and there is little
freedom. Designs that were well enough for
furniture or walls or panels applied to the
garden gave us a new set of difficulties. Car-
ried out in wood or in the carpet they answer

Scale of Feet. ,
ro 20 30 40 50 60 70 8g

Garden at Gnlder's Hill. Flowers to left of house and towards margin of laum, showing fine view over distant country. This plan (by
R. Marnock) shows the error of supposing that the picturesque garden requires the walks to be " made crooked."

in our own days we have many times seen
gardens laid out from the point of view of
the "decorator," i.e., beds without the slightest
relation to garden use, difficult to plant and
costly to keep in order. At South Kensington
the elaborate tracery of sand and gravel, &c,
there was attractive to some when first set out,
but it soon turned to dust and ashes. It was,
indeed, to a great extent formed of broken
brickdust, in a vain attempt to get rid of the
gardener and his flowers. The colours were
supplied from the building sheds, where one
saw boys pounding up bricks and slates, and
little beds were made of silver sand, so
that no gardener could disfigure them. The
Box edgings margining beds a foot wide, or

Certainly there are bold spirits who do not
mind putting their houses among rocks
with the heather on them, but, generally
speaking, we must cultivate a flower gar-
den, and simplicity as to form of the beds
should be the rule in it. There are many ways
of growing flowers and all sorts of situations
fit for them, but the flower garden itself near
the house must often be laid out with regular
beds, or else we cannot cultivate the flowers
with convenience, or get about the ground
with ease, and it is only a question of
right and wrong formality. The beds in
my own work are, as will be seen by the
plans here given, as formal as any, but
simpler and larger, and are made on the

their purpose, if we like them ; but a flower
bed is a thing for continual work, both in
cultivating and in arranging and keeping it,
and therefore it is best to see that we are not
bothered by needless complexities in deal-
ing with the ground. In these, plans there is
no difficulty of access, no small points to be
cut in Grass or other material, no vexatious
interruption to the workmen, but beds as airy
and simple as possible and giving us much
more room for flowers than beds of the ordi-
nary type.

The three plans herewith given are those of
wholly different kinds of gardens. The first,
at Hampstead, is perhaps the most interesting
example of a London garden for its disposition

February 1G, 1895]

THE GARDEN.

119

as regards beauty, airiness, perfect repose, and
tine distant view in which one can scarcely
see a house, a result which it is novel to find
so near London. This plan is also instruc-
tive in other ways — showing that where
it is desirable to keep a lawn open and quiet
for view, play or any other like reason, it is
•often easy to do this without interfering with
the necessary flower gardening or any other
charm of the place. The lawn is so open and
airy, that any number of people may assemble
on it without inconvenience or injury to any-
thing. The lawn falls gently from the house,
so that any walled terracing is needless,
and, excepting a few steps for the conveni-
ence of level, little has been done in that
dirjet on The plan also well disproves the

companions. At one end of the little garden
is the gardener's house, and high walls sur-
round the rest of the garden, so that there is
shelter and every comfort for the plants. The
garden is sensibly laid out to suit the ground,
the plants — Roses and hardy flowers in great
variety, a plan which admits of delightful
effect in such walled gardens. Picturesque
masses of Wistaria covered one side of the
wall and part of the house, and the whole was
a picture in the best sense. In such garden
enclosures it would be difficult to find any-
thing more delightful during more than half
the year. A drawback in gardens of this sort
in the old days was the absence of grouping
or any attempt to hold "things together "-
a fault which is easily got over. It is easy to

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Bocconia

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The third example consists of two flower
gardens close to a Tudor house, with a garden
door from the house into each. One being small
(that on the south), it was thought better to
devote it all to flowers and the necessary
walks, all being done with a view to sim-
plicity of culture and good effect of the plants.
In the other garden, there being more space,
the lawn is left open in the centre, while all
round and convenient to the walk are simple,
bold beds easy to deal with, and also spaced
in a free and open way for people to get
among them or about the lawn. The little
south garden being much frequented in all
weathers, and the paths among the beds
rather small, it was thought best to pave
them with old flagstones, and that has proved
very satisfactory, because lolling and
much weeding are thereby avoided and
the walks are pleasant to walk or work
on at all seasons. South of the house
and these gardens there is an open,
airy meadow lawn, the Grass of which
is studded with many bulbs which
flower in the spring. The vigorous
kinds of spring bulbs are grown in
great quantities in this field, and only
the choicer and rarer early bulbs are
put among the Roses and other flowers
in the flower garden proper, which is
mainly devoted to the more precious
hardy flowers and to Tea Roses.

W. R.

Sheltered little garden in front of gardener's house at Uffington House, Stamford, with
and hardy lowers, the spare enclosed in walls.

limple beds of Ro

thoughtless assertion of certain writers that
landscape gardeners always twist their walks
about.* It is seen here that nothing of the
kind is done in this most picturesque garden.
The flower beds are rather few and bold, and
made large for the sake of ease of cultivation
and breadth of effect.

The next plan is that of the gardener's
house at Uffington, near Stamford, which I
had the pleasure of seeing last autumn; it is
an example of the older-fashioned garden not
uncommon before nearly all gardens were
cleared for the sake of the Periila and its few

* " Because Nature is assumed never to show
straight lines, all paths are to be made crooked." —
TL> Formal Garden,

avoid scattering things one likes all over the
beds at equal distances, and, without " squar-
ing " them in any stupid way, to keep them
rather more together in natural groups and
colonies, where they are many times more
effective to the eye, and in winter it is much
easier to remember where they are. In this
way, too, it is easy to give a somewhat dis-
tinct look to each part of the garden. l!ox
edgings may be used in such a garden, and
where they thrive and are well kept they are
very pretty in effect, but always distinctly in-
ferior to a stone edging because more trouble-
some, and also because the plants cannot fall
over them as they can a rough edging of
natural stone —the best of all edgings.

THE ROCK GARDEN.
II.

January 26.- — During the week just
drawing to a close we have had a most
miscellaneous assortment of weather
samples in the west. It has been one
continuous change from rain to sunshine,
storm to calm, and frost to snow and
sleet. In the rock garden, nevertheless,
several fresh flowers have appeared,
although we had 0° of frost and the
ground is slightly sprinkled with snow.
Three or four specimens of that charming
rock plant Morisia hypogsea have each
of them several blooms expanded, though
the plants were not sheltered or protected
in the slightest degree. Nor is it the
flowers alone that constitute so bright an
ornament, but the glossy leaves greatly
enhance the charm, and the effect of
leaves and flowers peeping out from the
snow at the present moment is particu-
larly striking.*
Slugs and snails seem to have acquired a
special liking for Morisia hypogiea, and I have
known several instances where every vestige of
the plant was to all appearance totally destroyed
by their ravages. I found, however, that a fresh
set of leaves would spring up from the roots even
when the plant had long been considered as
dead.

Another useful rock plant which has opened
its flowers this week is Arabis rosea. This is
at present about 4 inches to li inches high, and
bears numerous rosy purple flowers. It is not
so compact in its habit of growth as Iberis
stylosa, which I mentioned last week, but
spreads more after the style of Arabis albida,

* Since writing the above the thermometer has
fallen in Exeter to 20° of frost, and all alpines are
buried in snow, which is frozen hard on the surface.

120

THE GARDEN.

[February 16, 1895

which it somewhat resembles in general out-
line, but its leaves are of a brighter green and
more deeply notched at the margin. The plant
is probably too robust in its growth to associate
with the dwarfest forms of alpine plants, but
for a rocky border devoted to larger plants it
should be just the thing, especially where earli-
ness of flowering is a consideration.

Though the ground is covered with snow, an
hour's sunshine has removed the snow from the
plants themselves, and I noticed a particularly
striking effect of a rock covered with Semper-
vivum triste. The stones and soil are white
with snow, while the bold rosettes of this Sem-
pervivum, with their dark bronzy red colour,
stand out in bold relief, forming a delightful
contrast. Particularly handsome, too, is at
present the foliage of Meconopsis Wallichi. It
has a peculiarly shaggy appearance, owing to

Saxifrages 1 would mention Saxifraga lantos-
cana superba and S. paradoxa as being particu-
larly ornamental at this season. Saxifraga
capillaris also is very effective ; its leaves are a
bright green and very much resemble Sol-
danella.

Of Androsace*, the Himalayan kinds (A. lanu-
ginosa and A. sarmentosa) are not ornamental
at this time of the year, and present an appear-
ance so bare and shrivelled, that those un-
acquainted with the nature of these plants might
consider them to be in a dying condition, but
as soon as the warmer weather sets in they will
quickly change their appearance. Very much
more ornamental at this season, even though
they are not yet blooming, are such com-
pact growing gems as Androsace helvetica, A.
cylindrica, A. pyrenaica, and A. obtusifolia. As
these varieties are generally found growing side-

leaves, and is here at least quite hardy, the
dark-leaved Leiophyllum buxifolium and the
glaucous-leaved Mesembryanthemum uncina-
tum. F. W. Meyer.

Exeter.

{To be continued.)

Chrysanthemums.

BROAD-PETALLED JAPANESE CHRY-
SANTHEMUMS.
The additions to this type of the Chrysanthe-
mum are becoming numerous, and we are accus-
tomed to read of new varieties like E. Moly-
neux or Mrs. C. W, Wheeler. They have wide,
thick, leathery florets of varying length and are.

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LONG WALK
Qirden in Sussex designed to secure easy cultivation and good effect, and planted with choicest hardy flowers, as one way out of the " bedding " systen

the numerous long yellow hairs covering the
stems of its leaves.

In my last contribution I mentioned several
rock plants that might be used for winter effects
on account of their handsome foliage, and to
these I would like to add a few not previously
mentioned. Saxifraga cresia is one of the
minutest gems, and, like most Rockfoils of the
encrusted section, its foliage appears even more
white and silvery during winter than in the
summer months, when new growth is being
made. S. coesia planted sideways against a
dark- coloured rock is very neat and effective.
Its tiny rosettes are composed of leaves little
bigger than a carraway seed, but they are packed
so closely together as to form a minute hard
cushion. Saxifraga valdensis also is exception-
ally neat and compact and is very little larger
han the former. Of larger kinds of encrusted

ways on the face of rocks, they require to be
well drained during our winters. I noticed here
in Exeter an Androsace helvetica which had
been planted out three or four years ago, and
developed into a very handsome specimen, but
in spite of the sloping position it occupies in the
rock garden, the excessive amount of wet during
last November has caused in several of its stems
an inclination to rot off. In this and other cases
I find it a good remedy to shake a little gritty
silver sand around the stems close to the rosettes
of leaves, which frequently make new roots in
consequence of such treatment. Androsace
carnea looks now as bright a green as a mossy
Saxifrage, and numerous flower buds are already
visible.

Among other plants with ornamental foliage
I will mention the pretty Pyrenean Senecio
leucophyllus, which has almost pure white

mostly of an incurved form. Being capable of
developing blossoms of huge dimensions, this
class of flower finds much favour with those who
exhibit for prizes. It is, however, a type which,
with one or two exceptions, I do not favour, as
coarseness is only too characteristic. Added to
this is the fact that they are difficult of culture
and not at all acceptable sorts for cultivating in
a free manner without disbudding. When this
mode is attempted the flowers produce a few
rows of petals only, and they also exhibit large
yellow centres, giving one the impression that
they are neither good singles nor choice doubles.
But the colours are exceedingly rich and the
petals seem proof against decay, lasting a very
long time in a fresh state. The earliest of this
type, namely, the variety

Edwin Molyneux, was introduced from Japan
nearly ten years ago. The introducer evidently

Ffbuuaey 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

121

thought more of it than did most persons at that
time in giving the sort a well-known name, but
that the judgment was exceptional events have
amply proved. The next year a bloom was grown
which did not show the yellow disc. It was per-
fectly double and of huge size. I distinctly re-
member this blossom had the incurved shape, so
that more of the old gold colour was visible than
the deep rich red which makes this variety so
showy. The following season, however, gave us
the flower in its grandest garb, and all who saw
the stand of half a dozen blooms that easily won
the first prize at the great Aquarium show will not
readily forget them. These blooms were 8 inches
across and about o inches in depth. The wide
petals were of great length and had a drooping
habit, with just a slight curl at the tips to give
them grace and show the yellow colour, which
when set against the purple- crimson inner surface
gives an exceptionally showy combination. Hot
seasons suit this variety, for in some years (as, for
instance, the last) good specimens were rare ; but
the autumn before (1893) it was again first, beat-
ing the best of the new introductions of that
time, and when in good form it invariably finds
more admirers than any sort yet to be found in
collections. E. Molyneux requires a long season
of growth. It is therefore advisable to strike the
cuttings early. Use soil without manure of any
kind and of a sandy nature in the first stages, it
being an easy matter to produce a sickly yellow
colour in the leaves. Its roots are thick and it
takes a considerable time for the cuttings to form
them, but when once a good start is made and the
spring advancing, there is no Chrysanthemum
that responds better to high culture. The aim
should be continual repotting until the final size
is reached. A 10-inch pot may be employed at
that stage. I have succeeded best when the plants
have been allowed to assume a natural growth,
that is when the breaks have appeared without
topping. The first stoppage to the shoots took
place in April, and three shoots were selected.
These in their turn were each allowed to show a
crown bud, which occurred in July. After de-
stroying the buds, one shoot to each stem was
directed upwards and the next flower-buds re-
tained, pinching away all side growths and push-
ing the plants' energies to the utmost by feeding
with manures.

Mrs. C. W. Wheeler. — This is pretty well
known, but considering the time it has been in
cultivation its appearances in good form are rare.
The colour of the flower is an orange-brown
shade, but the most remarkable characteristics of
the variety are the universal width and thickness
of the petals and its gigantic size. I cannot
remember having seen a fine bloom of this grown
in the neighbourhood of London. Country air is
one of ics requirements. It is well to strike the
cuttings early and treat them as advised in the
case of E. Molyneux in the young stage, but when
the season is somewhat advanced this variety pro-
duces very strong growth and leaves. Large pots
may be used in the final potting, and it is not
easy to over-do this variety in the matter of ferti-
lisers. Choose early buds. Those which form
after the first natural break will not be too early
even if they come during the end of July.

Beauty of Castlewood. — When well grown
this is a very tine flower, but it is only during
hot seasons that we see it in good form. Perhaps
the most difficult of all Chrysanthemums to form
roots, it is one that has not, after several years'
culture, found its way into many collections, and
a number of persons have the variety Mrs.
Wheeler named Beauty of Castlewood. There is,
however, a great difference between the two.
The latter has by far the richer colouring and is
in every way the more striking. The inner sur-
face is bright dark crimson and the outside bright
gold. It inclines to an incurving shape. Full,
broad, and deep when in good condition, it adds
materially to the points of an exhibition stand.
But its bad qualities are too many to allow it to
eve<- become a favourite of the general cultivator.
Dime alt of culture up to midsummer and spare
of roob, it requires a deal of coaxing. An 8-inch

pot is large enough for this sort. Although a late
variety, the buds may not be selected early. In
such cases the blooms develop imperfect in shape
and colour. The next of this type as regards
time of introduction is

Robert McInnes. The colour of this variety
is a showy orange-red shade with gold tips. On
its own soil (America) it is held in great favour,
but here it will never become popular. Two
summers should be sufficient time to test a new
kind, and in both seasons this sort has been un-
satisfactory.

Miss Ethel Addison. — This is an immense
flower with broad thick petals, and the colour is
rather a pretty shade of rose-purple. It is a strong
and easy grower, but only useful for show pur-
poses. Whilst the taste exists for Chrysanthemums
of huge dimensions, kinds that have that quality
and a heavy look will always find admirers, but
for any other purpose except filling up a large
space on show boards such kinds are useless.

Hike of York is another very popular exhi-
bition variety, but it is coarse. Dull and un-
certain in colour, with very little character in its
formation, it has gigantic size. The inner shade
of colour is rich and dark, but the thick wide
florets incurve loosely and exhibit the outer sur-
face, a washy grey. The plant is an excellent
grower, and the sort may be made to produce
blooms, perhaps not altogether repulsive, by late
bud selection.

King of Chrysanthemums is among the newest
of the " Wheeler" class and has brilliant colour-
ing. It is also a capital grower, and I fully ex-
pect another year's growth will bring out excel-
lent qualities. This came from Japan.

The French raisers appear to have worked
for this broad-petalled type, probably from the
fact that the semi-double varieties like E.
Molyneux aud Mrs. Wheeler, when cultivated
by ordinary methods, lend themselves to seed-
bearing.

Mrs. C Harman-Payne belongs to the huge,
coarse, dull-coloured section, and yet it is among
the first dozen seen most often in exhibition
stands. Apart from its size, however, there is
nothing to recommend it unless it be that it is one
of the easiest to grow. Select late buds and
only allow three flowers to a plant. This treat-
ment tends to bring it less coarse than generally
seen.

Prefet Robert has a purple-rose colour, rather
bright, and is massive in build. It is a good
grower, but, apart from show purposes, not a
commendable sort.

President Ar.mand has rich dark crimson
florets with silvery reverse. The flower is as re-
fined as any of the broad petalled type, and if
with further cultivation the richly-coloured inner
surface of the petals is more conspicuous than
when first tried, this will prove an exceedingly
handsome blossom. The habit of the plant is
dwarf and its leaves thick and leathery.

Vr'E-President Calvat. — This is perhaps the
least refined of all Chrysanthemums and the
strongest grower. The blooms are inclined to in-
curve and the colour is bronzy brown. Exhibitors
will, I know, forget many faults if a flower has large
size, but they never look at this kind. I grew the
variety from the first and discarded it alter one
trial, but there are many persons still anxious to
possess it. This again is of easy culture, its only
good quality.

Henry Jacotot fils may be included among
this type. It is less coarse than many, and the
formation of the incurving and intertwining
florets is very taking. It has a dwarf habit of
growth ; the colours are crimson and gold.

M. Dennis takes after the E. Molyneux style
and is a rich and handsome flower. The florets
are wide and long ; they recurve and show the
crimson inner surface. It is dwarf and requires
high culture and a large pot, as well as early bud-
selection. H. Shoesmith.

CHINESE PRIMULAS AT READING.

A visit to Messrs. Sutton and Sons' nursery at
Reading is interesting at all seasons of the year.
At the present time it is the Primulas and Cycla-
mens that are the leading features, combining, as
they do, a floral display of the rarest excellence and
beauty. The results achieved by the Messrs.
Sutton in the hybridisation and selection of the
best types of the Chinese Primula extend back
over a long series of years, bearing evidence of the
greatest possible painstaking on their part to
bring their strain to the highest state of perfec-
tion. A visit at this season affords an object-
lesson in the improvement of florists' flowers as re-
presented both by the Chinese Primula and the
Cyclamen. It is only by an inspection, which is
readily afforded, that the charming colours in such
variety amongst the Primulas in question can bo
fully or adequately realised. These colours extend
from the purest white to pink, from crimson to
scarlet, and from purple to various shades of blue.
Furthermore, there is this remarkable feature,
viz., in nearly every shade of colour amongst the
singles there is to be found its counterpart in the
doubles.

One of the most noteworthy of the many good
features in the Reading Primulas is the subdued
leaf growth with short leaf-stalks. It should be
borne in mind by all cultivators of the Primula
that this plant is not grown, or at least should
not be, for the sake of its foliage. Any practical
grower will often have noted that this mistake
is made, and if seed be saved from such plants
the same features will be imparted to the off-
spring in a greater or less degree. We do not
want plants with a dense and large leafy growth,
but those in which the flower-spikes predominate.
There are at Reading what are most fittingly
termed Giant Primulas, to distinguish them from
the other singles, but the use of this term does not
mean that the leaf growth is of giant character ;
there is a robust vigour about the plants, it is true ;
they are stout and sturdy, but the flower-spikes
and the individual blossoms are the chief features,
these being of large size and unusual sub.-tance ;
hence the definition of '-giant." Another and an all-
important feature in this strain of Primulas is the
variation of flowering in point of time. There are
varieties for early or autumn use, others for the
winter, and others, again, for the spring. In re-
gard to this feature, it might be said by soma
critics that this variation is all brought about by
sowing at different seasons, but it is not so ; it is
fixed in a most pronounced manner in the diffe-
rent varieties, all of which for purposes of seed-
saving are sown at one time. The early kinds are
going out of flower, others are juet at their best,
whilst the latest are only just commencing to
flower. A variety, for instance, called Snowdrift
is very early, coming into flower in September if
needs be. Reading Pink has this same feature,
whilst the latest of all are to be found amongst
the giant section and the doubles, Giant Crimson
and Double Red being two instances of this.
At the recent January meeting of the RH.S.
Messrs. Sutton exhibited a few of their newer
kinds, but the light was so indifferent that no
correct idea could be formed of the colours.
Seen in the span-roofed houses at Reading the
difference in this respect is astonishing.

Of the giant section the following were parti-
cularly noteworthy : Giant Rosy Queen, with large
flowers, the petals overlapping each other by
reason of their breadth, the colour a soft rosy
blush, singularly handsome and distinct, the well-
detined eye adding to the effect ; this is to be
seen both in the Fern and plain or palmate leaf.
Giant White.— This has the plain leaf, the
growth being very sturdy and robust, the colour
of the purest, whilst in point of size the flowers
are amongst the largest of all and the spikes
very robust. Giant Crimson was just unfolding
its first flowers ; this is a Chinese Primula of
unusual excellence, having the same good pro-
perties of the Giant White in respect of the
flowers, its name being most appropriate. Giant
White (Fern-leaf) is a counterpart of the preced-
ing Giant White except in regard to its toliage,

122

THE GARDEN.

[FEBRUAliT 10, 1895.

which is desply cut and extremely handsome.
Giant Brilliant Rose is a fitting companion to
either of the foregoing, the colour a deep rose, be-
coming more intense with age, a grand decorative
Primula. Giant Lilac is a very distinct and
showy Primula, with singularly free growth,
the flowers pale lilac-purple. Giant Pink has
flowers of extraordinary size and exquisitely
fringed, soft pink in colour, a most distinct and
pleasing shade, being in all respects a model
Primula of unusual beauty. Snowdrift, as its
name indicates, is a white variety of the Fern-
leaf section ; its earliness has been already noted.
Grenadier is quite a new shade of colour, a deep
orange-scarlet, being extremely showy and of rich
appearance. Rosy Queen (Fern-leaf) is of un-
usually dwarf growth, rosy blush in colour, a
select decorative Primula. Reading Pink is the
best type of a pink Primula, deep blush-pink,
with paler shading ; this also is an early variety
and a fitting companion to Snowdrift. In Brilliant
Rose is to be seen a specially fine Primula, deep
in colour, extra dwarf and very free, with finely-
formed flowers and large trusses. Gipsy Queen,
a Fern-leaf, is the best representative of its
section, with flowers of the purest white, the
distinct yellow eye being very conspicuous ; the
leaves are suffused with a dark metallic hue, the
leaf stalks being darker still. This contrast between
flowers and foliage makes this a most attractive
variety. Purity, another Fern-leaf, has flowers
of snowy whiteness, with pale lemon eye, large in
size and perfect in form, the petals so overlapping
as to make the flowers look very massive. Of this
there is also a plain leaf form. Pearl, which has
been in commerce since 1879, still holds its own
as a first-class white decorative Primula, very free
and compact, with a profusion of spikes. Ruby
King, another of the older varieties, has deep
ruby shade, with a distinct crimson zone surround-
ing the eye, the growth being specially close, the
flowers nestling on the foliage. Brilliant Ruby is
a selection from Ruby King, and is one of the
most brilliant in colour of any, being of a much
richer shade than the foregoing, having its other
good qualities. New Deep Carmine is a marked
advance in this shade of colour, with extia fine
flowers and stout trusses. This is a choice addition
to late Primulas. Reading Blue is the most
marked advance yet seen in this colour (the washy
shade of a few years back being entirely dispelled),
which is intermediate between a deep lavender-
blue and that of the Forget-me-not, being quite
unsurpassed at this season of the year as a decora-
tive Primula; the growth is robust and dwarf.
Of the foregoing there is also a Fern-leaf form
which has even more richly coloured flowers, whilst
the growth is decidedly attractive. Besides these
there is a new blue Primula (not 3'et in commerce),
quite unique in colouring, a pale soft pure blue,
with the margins of the petals shading off and
forming a white marginal edge, the flowers them-
selves of full size and the finest form, with foliage
of a paler shade of green than usual.

The double Primulas at Reading are quite a
feature of themselves, the advance during the past
few years being marvellous. These are not appre-
ciated nearly so much by some growers as they
deserve to be. For cutting purposes, either to use
at home or for fending away, they are of very great
service, both lasting and travelling better than
the singles. When better known these seedling
doubles will beyond doubt be grown extensively.
All the most serviceable colours are now repre-
sented in this section. Double White is a great
stride with large trusses freely produced, whilst
the growth is quite close, the spikes showing well
above the foliage. Double Scarlet is of similarly
good habit, with the flowers of an intense scarlet,
the spikes produced in profusion ; this is a grand
decorative Primula. Double Imperial Purple, the
plants of which are very dwarf and compact, pro-
duces flowers of an intensely rich shade, a splendid
colour for effect and excellent also as a late variety.
Double Bed is a large and showy variety of free
growth, being well suited tocool houses. Improved
Double Carmine is valuable not only in. its colour,
but also as being one of the earliest of the doubles.

Double Rose has flowers of a soft rosy-blush shade,
a charming colour, the individual blossoms being
very full, the foliage of small size. Double Carna-
tion-flaked is for vigour of growth, sturdy habit
and profusion of flower a variety of the first rank,
the flowers being pure white, with faint flakes
whilst young, but which intensify with age ; the
trusses are of extra size. Double Blue in point of
colour is equal to Reading Blue, but as a double
it possesses the finest flowers of any, being a most
noteworthy variety in every sense. Double Helio-
trope is a counterpart of Double Blue save in
colour, which is of the true heliotrope shade often
so much in request, a singularly distinct variety.
Double alba magnifica and Double White Fern-
leaf are two distinct additions, both being choice
varieties. Each of these varieties of the Chinese
Primula is in groups ; hence a comparison is
rendered all the more easy, whilst the effect is
also enhanced.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
February 12.

This meeting afforded abundant evidence of the
severity of the weather, for on no previous occa-
sion do we recollect such a small number of ex-
hibits. Singular to say, however, Orchids were
by far the most numerous, and these alone amply
compensated for a journey in the inclement
weather. It was not so much as plants but as cut
flowers that these were exhibited ; this is no cause
for surprise, and only in a few instances had any
of these cut exhibits come to any harm in transit.
The labours of both the floral and fruit and vege-
table committees were exceedingly light, the only
recognition to a new production being made to a
seedling Anthurium. The exhibit of Oranges,
home grown examples, from Sawbridgeworth was
remarkably fine, the fruits well ripened and
possessing a very rich aroma. Another exhibit of
Seville Oranges came from Derby ; these were un-
usually large and well suited for marmalade after
they had done good service as ornamental pro-
ductions.

Orchid Committee.
First-class certificates were awarded to the three
following fine Orchids, all coming from well-known
collections : —

Cymhidium erurneo-Lowianum sdperbum (C.
eburneum x C. Lowianum).— A grand hybrid, be-
ing very distinct from the type, quite as large in
the flower as C. Lowianum with much of its form,
the growth being on the other hand quite inter-
mediate in character. The sepals and petals are
of acreamy-yellow shade, theliphaving the rich dark
crimson markings as seen only in the best forms
of C. Lowianum. From Messrs. James Veitch and
Sons, Chelsea.

Phal.enorsis Youngiana. — An imported spe-
cies, but one in all probability that is nearly re-
lated to P. Aphrodite, P. Sehilleriana, 'and P.
Stuartiana. In size, vigour, and form it is like
P. Aphrodite, the upper sepal and petals being
white with the roseate suffusion (more particularly
in the petals, which are very broad) as seen in P.
Sehilleriana, with the lower sepals spotted as in
P. Stuartiana. A very superb variety with a com-
bination of good qualities. From Baron Schroder's
collection at The Dell, Egham.

Phae.enopsis intermedia Portei, of which a
grand spike with five branches and thirty-six
flowers and buds was shown, was not only a fine
cultural exhibit, but also a superior form of inte-
media, with flowers 2 inches across ; sepals and
petals pure white with a faint suffusion of rosy
lilac at the base and deeper lilac on the column,
the lip being more of a reddish tinge. From Lord
Rothschild's collection, Tring.

An award of merit went to —

Cala>.-the MAsrc'A TiucARtNATA. — A new garden
hybrid with the foliage and habit of C. masuc'a,

but dwarfer, the formation of the spike being
similar, with the labellum of each individual flower
considerably shorter ; the colour is a very pale
flesh with the faintest tinge of pale lilac. From
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

A silver Banksian medal was awarded to Baron
Schrader for some exceedingly handsome and
choice cut flowers brought by Mr. Ballantine from
The Dell gardens. These comprised the Phalas-
nopsis to which note has already been made, also
Odontoglossum coronarium miniatum, of which
a huge dense spike was shown with large
flowers of an intensely rich shade of crimson-
brown. On this spike there were twenty-seven
blooms and buds, and a cultural commenda-
tion was most deservedly awarded. Another most
noteworthy spike was that of Calanthe Baron
Sehrn-der, very vigorous, of great length and
carrying a fine cluster of flowers, these being of
an intensely dark purplish crimson, the shade
slightly lighter upon the sepals and petals.
Calanthe Regnieri was represented by a very fine
spike densely set with bloom ; the pure white
sepals and petals, also lip, with the throat and
column of rosy purple, make this a most note-
worthy species. C. Regnieri Stevensiana has the
rosy suffusion extended to the sepals and petals,
being also of a lighter shade, the spike being
again a fine one. Another form appeared to be
quite intermediate between these two. C. Reg-
nieri fausta has the lip entirely tinted with a
dark shade of rose, whilst the sepals and petals are
of a lighter tint. Phaio-Calanthe Sedeni and its
var. rcsea were both represented by good spikes.
Several Cypripediums were also shown, com-
prising the choicest kinds, as C. insigne Sandene,
the unique character of which is well known, the
golden, the pale green, and the pure white being
in pleasing harmony. Quite in contrast to this
variety was C. Harrisianum superbum, with
flowers of the deepest bronzy purple and very
lustrous (this struck us as a distinctly superior
form). C. Lathami, with its golden and bronzy
tinted flowers of large size, C. Charlesworthi, of
which one of the best varieties was shown, C.
Sallieri-Hyeanum, a distinct and richly marked
variety, and C. Calypso, somewhat after C. La-
thami, were also included, as well as another
variety bearing some resemblance to C. Boxalli,
but much superior to it.

Sir Trevor Lawrence sent from the Burford
Lodge collection another grand spike of Odonto-
glossum coronarium miniatum, scarcely so strong
as Baron Schroder's, with a few less flowers,
but in other respects equally as fine ; to this also a
cultural commendation was awarded. From Mr.
F. Wigan's collection at Clare Lawn, East Sheen,
came Cypripedium Rothschildianum, one spike of
which bore three extra fine flowers, well marked,
with the lower sepal of unusually large size, and
the petals longer than usual; C. Lathami was re-
presented by a large well-formed flower of rich
colour ; Lselia pumila pra'stms by a fine form with
broad petals, and the labellum of deep velvety
purple ; and Vanda (Stauropsis) gigantea by a
good spike of thirteen flowers and buds, the sepals
and petals of which are of leathery substance, rich
yellow in colour, with orange spots. From
Messrs. Sander and Co., St. Albans, came Pres-
cottia colorans, an erect spike, flowers yellow and
quite minute; also Dendrobium Egertona\ an old,
but seldom seen species, very beautiful if not
showy ; Odontoglossum Humeanum, in the way of
but quite distinct from O. Rossi majus ; Thaius
amabilis (P. grandiflora x P. tuberculosis), with
the lip after the last-named parent and the
sepals and petals of a clouded pink ; also P.
Martha- (P. Blumei X P. tuberculosis), the lip
again taking after the last named, but with the
sepals and petals of a light golden yellow. Den-
drobium PhakenopsisStatterianum, the forerunner
of Schrn-derianum, was also staged, itsrosy purple
flowers being very beautiful. Lselia anceps Schrce-
deriana, one of the very finest of the white anceps,
was included, the flowers being of large size and
of the purest white, save the vinous purple and
golden markings in the throat. A fine spike of
Odontoglossum Coiadinei alb'anense, with straw-

Iilruary 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

123

coloured flowers spotted with pile chocolate, and
Cypripedium Fordianum, showing its affinity to C.
Stonei in its dorsal sepal and in the petals, were
also included.

Mr. Frederick Hardy, Ashton-onMersey, sent
a few choice cut blooms, notably of Cattleya Per-
ciyaliana magnifica, just expanded, very superior,
with larger and more richly coloured flowers,
the lip being of a deep crimson purple. Other
forms of the same species were shown, both light
and dark kinds being included, in some of which
the rich golden markings of the throat were very
prominent. Cattleya Triana? was represented
by several fine forms, the flowers of large size.
Dendrobium Schneiderianum x Phalamopsis Schil-
leriana and P. Stuartiana were also included here.
From Mr. Cobb, Dulcote, Tunbridge Wells, came
Odontoglossum crispum La Gascogne, with large,
well-marked flowers, the sepals and petals pure
white, quite devoid of the rosy-purple suffusion,
but clearly marked with pale chocolate ; the spike
bore fourteen flowers. Mr. Hill brought from
Tring Park a very fine spike of the old, but choice
Lajlia superbiens, a distinct and handsome species.
Mr. Walter C. Walker, Percy Lodge, Winchmore
Hill, sent two spikes of the exceedingly showy
La-lia harpophylla, with its orange-scarlet flowers
well developed ; also Oncidium splendidum,
somewhat in the way of 0. tigrinum, the canary,
yellow lip being very conspicuous. That noble
hybrid, Cypripedium grande, was also shown here,
the two flowers on the one spike being of deeper
colour than usual. C. Rothschildianum was also
included, as well as the old Oncidium Cavendishi
and Odontoglossum maculatum, of which two
spikes were sent. Mr. W. Thompson, Walton
Grange, Stone, sent Lielia anceps in variety, also
Cattleya Triana? and C. Triana= alba, with Odonto-
glossums, but the cold had been too much for
them. Sufficient, however, could be seen to
prove them to bo good varieties in each case.
Messrs. W. L. Lewis and Co., Sbuthgate, had
Cattleya Triana' Ashtoni, distinct, with a deep
violet-crimson lip. From Mr. F. Burton, High-
fields, Gainsborough, came hybrid Cypripediums,
C. Buffusum, C. refulgens and C. maculosum, the
latter being the most distinct with its singularly
spotted petals.

A silver Banksian medal was most deservedly
awarded to Mr. Chapman, the Gardens, Cam-
bridge Lodge, Camberwell, for what was one of
the most interesting features of the meeting, viz.,
an excellent assortment of dried Orchid blooms]
in which the splendid preservation of the colours
was most noteworthy, combined with careful
mounting. These comprised a wide assortment
of species from various genera, some of the best
being Cattleya aurea chrysotoxa and C. Triame
Cypripedium Youngi superbum and C. Leeanum'
Dendrobium Wardianum, C.elogyne speciosa,
Laelia anceps, and Oncidium tigrinum. Another
medal (bronze) was awarded to an exhibit of
photographs and photogravures of Orchid plants
and blooms, which showed a high degree of skill
in execution, being clearly delineated, the light
and shade correct, the only fault to be found
being a perceptible increase in size over the
natural specimens. These came from Mons. Gravv

1(U. Camhprw^ll Not,- V!™A c r *"

161, Camberwell New Road, S.E.
Floral Committee.
An award of merit went to —

Anthcrium Perfection, one of the large-
spathed forms resulting from the influence, direct
or otherwise, of A. Andreanum. This hybrid is
a particularly fine one, with a large, well-propor-
tioned spathe measuring 8 inches in length and
5J inches in width, the colour a deep lustrous
orange-red, the surface slightly uneven, the spadix
being ivory white, and the foliage sagittate and
deep green in colour. From Sir Trevor Lawrence.

By far the most noteworthy feature, however
presented before the floral committee was the
splendid exhibit from Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons
of their unique hybrid Rhododendrons of the
javanico-j^miniflo.-um and multicolor parentage
Of these, two boxes of cut blooms were shown

each comprising a wide range of colour, from the
purest white to the deepest yellow, the softest
pink to the deepest red. The trusses of many of
the first-named hybrids were unusually large,
notably Ne Plus Ultra and Conqueror ; of the
latter section, Mrs. Heal was shown in its best form.
Sir Trevor Lawrence sent a well-flowered ex-
ample of Thyrsacanthus rutilans with numbers
of its racemes of vividly coloured flowers.
This plant is not nearly enough grown. Messrs.
Paul and Son had cut examples of Azalea mollis
in various colours from home-grown plants, quite
good enough for any purpose. From Messrs.
Sander and Co. came Hemanthus Kalbreyeri, of
which five large spikes of its deep blood red
flowers were shown ; it is a superior decDrative
plant. Sir David Evans, Ewell Grove, sent a
seedling Primula with pure white flowers of large
size and well fringed ; the excessive vigour, how-
ever, of the foliage was out of all proportion.
This is a point in Primula culture that should be
taken more note of.

Fruit Committee.

There were only a few exhibits before this com-
mittee. Messrs. Rivers and Son staged a dozen
kinds of splendidly grown Oranges and Citrons,
showing how well these fruits can be grown in
this country with little heat. Most of the varie-
ties staged had very fine deep green leaves, show-
ing the robust condition to which these plants
attain at Sawbridgeworth. The most noticeable
varieties were the following : The White Orange,
a very distinct kind with striped fruit, large,
pale flesh and rind, the flavour being rich and
good ; the better-known St. Michael, the ordinary
Orange of commerce, but splendid examples of
culture, were also staged. Bettencourt, a nice
looking fruit ; Silver, or Plata, a splendid fruit,
pale yellow, with very thin rind, flavour piquant
and delicious ; the Oval or Egg Orange of St
Michael, a large fruit with thick rind, but not
equal as regards flavour to those named, may also
be mentioned. The Maltese, a pretty fruit, with
darker flesh, large, and very rich flavour, often
varies much in colour, but is a free grower. A
silver-gilt Knightian was awarded this collection.
Five dishes of Seville Oranges were sent from
Stanton Hall, Bakewell, Derbyshire, and were
noticeable for their good quality and bright ap-
pearance. This variety is not only useful for its
fruit, but bears a fine large flower (silver medal).
Messrs. J. Peed and Sons, Norwood Road Nur-
series, SE., staged twenty-four dishes of well-
kept Apples, the best varieties being Annie
Elizabeth, Winter Greening, Bismarck, Gas-
coigne's Scarlet, Lane's Prince Albert, the newer
Newton Wonder, Bramley's Seedling, and others.
Mr. A. G. Nichols, the Gardens, Nuneham Park,
Abingdon, sent three dishes of Nichols' Fa-
vourite Keeping Onion for certificate. The bulbs
were very good, and a cultural commendation
was awarded. It was suggested that this kind
be sent to Chiswick for trial.

Annual Meeting.

The meeting was held at the offices of the
society, 117, Victoria Street, Sir Trevor Lawrence,
Bart., the pre-ident, in the chair. The report of
the council for the year was read by the assistant
secretary, Mr. Weathers, and passed.

Sir Trevor Lawrence complimented the society
upon the work of the past year, specially referring
to the Temple show, which is now universally
acknowledged to be the leading horticultural ex
hibition of this country. Last year it was su-
perior in every way to its predecessors. He said
the best thanks of the society were due to all who
so kindly contiibuted to thesuccess of this show.
The council feared the extra day would have been
a drawback to exhibitors, but they had been
generous. A three-days' show was arranged for
this jear, and Sir Trevor Lawrence said that he
might say they all looked forward to it. The
regular meetings at the Drill Hall had been a

also to the readers of papers. The great show of
fruit at the Crystal Palace was also a success,
and their best thanks were due to those gentle-
men who subscribed the guarantee fund before
the council embarked on the undertaking. This
year the council had made arrangements with the
directors of the Crystal Palace for a similar show.
Good work had been done at Chiswick in the way
of trials of vegetables and flowers, and their
thanks were due to Mr. Barron, the superinten-
dent. The tree and shrub conference at Chiswick -
was not well attended, no doubt owing to the bad
weather. It was determined not to hold another
conference this year in tha gardens. Considerable
repairs have been carried out at Chiswick during
the past year, about £l!80 having been spent in
all. At the last annual meeting a wish was ex-
pressed that a catalogue of the library should be
published. Afundto meet the expense was opened,
and £80 had been received up to the present
time, but they required more. He was glad to
say the work was well advanced. They had gone
into the difficult question of judging at shows,
and he hoped some settlement of the matter
would be arrived at. The chairman spoke in the
warmest terms of the work of the able secretary,
the Rev. W. Wilks, also the assistant secretary,
Mr. Weathers. Allusion was also made to the
examination to take place in May in the principles
of horticulture.

Mr. Johnston acked if the lectures could not be
printed earlier in the journal. He suggested that
the journal should be printed quarterly, as there
was now a lot of matter of little interest. He also
asked that a full report of lectures should appear,
as the horticultural papers did not report fully :
also that surplus seeds and plants be given the
Fellows.

Mr. Parker inquired about the certificates given
by the society. He said people were at a loss to
know their value. He asked that the matter be
looked into, as he wished to know the difference
between the first class certificate and award of
merit.

Mr. Marshall hoped the conferences at Chiswick
would not be done away with, as they had done a
good work. The houses and bjildings had been
put in repair and the various trials of plants, fruits
and flowers were thoroughly carried out, so that
the Fellows would be more interested in visiting
the gardens in the future.

The chairman, in reply, stated it was not
possible to distribute seeds in the way Mr. John-
son suggested, as it would not be fair to the trado,
and the advertisements in the journal were a
source of income that the society could not get
rid of ; also that the section of journal not yet
printed would be published shortly.

Mr. H. J. Veitch proposed a vote of thanks to
the chairman, which was carried unanimously.

Sir Trevor Lawrence was elected president,
Mr. Sydney Courtauld, Mr. H. Williams and Mr.
Thomas Statter as the new members of council,
the Rev. W. Wilks re-elected secretary, with
Messrs. H. Turner, A. H. Pearson and James H.
Veitch auditors.

THE ROYAL GARDENERS' ORPHAN FUND.
The annual meeting and election of children took
pla?e at the Cannon Street Hotel on the 8th inst. ,
Mr. John Harrison, of Leicester, presiding, the
officers and the committee being well repre-
sented, but of the subscribers only a few 'were
present. The report of the executive committer
set forth that notwithstanding the existing com-
mercial depression, which affects all that pertains
to gardening pursuits and the cultivation of the
soil, yet success had followed their efforts, and,
as far as the orphan fund is concerned, the tide of
charity and benevolence flows on as freely as ever.
Thefinancial statement shows receipts higher thai
in 1893, while the ordinary working expenses re-
main about the same. During the past year
sixty-one orphan children enjoyed the beneiits of
the fund at a cost of £787 10s. The committee

10s.
great success, and tho society was much indebted | recommend the election of six that day, bring
to these who had sent plants and flowers, and ing the number beneficiares for 1895 to sixty

124

THE GARDEN.

[February 16, 18)5.

four. There were thirteen applicants for elec-
tion, and the committee regretted that several
deserving cases had to stand over until next year.
The report drew the attention of gardeners to the
excellence and importance of the charity, and
solicited from them more help and assistance, as
the whole object of the fund is for their exclusive
benefit, and an increase of assistance from the
profession is urgently needed. Mention is made
of the support rendered by local secretaries, and
in the way of special contributions the Altrincham
Gardeners' Society deserve a warm tribute of
thanks; they sent a donation of £50 10s., the pro-
ceeds of a concert given on behalf of the fund.
The report set forth that Mr. Harry J. Veitch
had consented to preside at the next festival din-
ner, to take place on April 5. The cash state-
ment showed the amount of receipts for the year
ending December 31 to be £1601 0s. 3d. ; sub-
scriptions amounting to £435 16s., donations to
£291 19s., the proceeds of the annual dinner,
£620 19s. 3d. ; the card collection brought only
£27 6s. lid., a most melancholy result, and divi-
dends on stock, £189 9s. 9d. During the year stock
had been purchased to the amount of £511 ISs. 6rl.,
bringing the investments up to £7570 6s. 10d.,
the balance carried forward being £829 13s. 7d.
The chairman moved the adoption of the report
and cash statements, characterising them as de-
cidedly satisfactorv, at the same time exhorting
the gardening profession to give a greater support
to what is their own fund. This was seconded by
Mr. William Marshall and carried unanimously.
Mr. T. B. Haywood was thanked for his services
and re-elected treasurer. Mr. .lohn Fraser was
re-elected and Mr. Martin Rowan elected auditor
in the place of Mr. Sharp, resigned. Messrs.
Asbee, Ballantine, Cannell, Cummins, Gordon,
Roupell, and Wynne were re elected members of
the committee, and Messrs. H. B. May, H. J.
Jones, and J. M'Leod were elected members in
the place of Messrs. Bunyard, Lane and Wright,
who had resigned. Mr. A. F. Barron was re-elected
hon. secretary, and an amendment was made to
Rule 4, relating to the re-election of members of
the committee, it requiring that in the future they
attend three meetings in the course of the year to
qualify them for re-election. Messrs. R. Dean,
A. Outram, W. Poupart, and B. Wynne were
appointed scrutineers of the election, and the
meeting adjourned till 4 o'clock to receive their
report. On re-assembling the scrutineers re-
ported that, the election has resulted as follows :
For Rosa Emily King Ward, 535 votes ; Frederick
Smith Parker, 517 ; Isabella Elizabeth Pratt, 489 ;
Alfred Alexander Grafter. 457 ; Leonard Tavlor,
276 ; and Felicia Barber, 228 ; A B. Ritchie, 216 ;
S. Small, 209; AmyFarrant, 190; F. L. Haycock,
145 ; R. C. Stevens, 90 ; and F. Barson, 42. The
chairman then declared the six first-named can-
didates duly elected. Votes of thanks were
passed to the scrutineers and to the chairman for
presiding, which brought the proceedings to a
clos?.

Notes of the Week.

Iris persica.— This charming little flower is
amongst the most beautiful now in the green-
house, and it is much admired. We usually pot
it up with the other bulbs and bring it gently
along in a cool house after the plunging process.—
W. A. Cook, Compton Basset, Wills.

Water Lilies and the frost.— Mons. Latour-
Marliac writes, saying that although they have
not been spared the severity of this remarkably
snowy winter, they have not to regret the loss of
any plants through it, and his beautiful collection
of Water Lilies is peacefully awaiting the end
of all the tempests to open their leaves and buds
to the sun.

The frost.— Since sending mv previous note on
the excessive frost, our register has been : Friday
(8th) morning, 39° ; Saturday < 9th), 28° ; Sunday
flOth), S6° ; Monday (11th), 13°. The barometer
has fallen slightly and the skv looks gloomv to-

day, but a cold and rising breeze is coming from
the E.N.E.— J. C. Tallack.

Eucalyptus globulus. — I herewith send you
a branch of Eucalyptus globulus, or Blue Gum. I
thought perhaps it might be of interest to you or
your numerous readers. The plant was grown in
an 8-inch pot. I have noticed that many more
flowered last season than for some years past.
— J. Lee, Gopsall Hall Gardens, Atherslone,
Warwick.

*„* A very fine shoot of this Eucalyptus
smothered with seed-pods. — Ed.

The yellow Aconite at Alton. — What
wonderfully hardy little fellows yellow Aconites
are! Minebegan to bloom December21. Since then
they have gone through some of the coldest weather
since 1838, thermometer down to 1°, i.e., 31° of
frost, and only sheltered by barely an inch of snow ;
and to day, with the thermometer at 25' at mid-
day, they look fresh and bright and are opening
to a faint gleam of sunshine. — Wm. Wickham,
Binsted- Wyrf;, Alton, Hants.

The new post-card and the Continental

post-offices. — Since people have been allowed in
England to use post-cards of their own with an
adhesive stamp affixed, large numbers of them
furnished with a penny stamp have found their
way over here. Now if the words " Post Card.
The address only to be written on this side," are
printed on the address side, our post-office au-
thorities will pass them, but if not, they are
treated as insufficiently prepaid letters, and a fine
of 3d. is inflicted. It is hardly necessary to say
that this is a great annoyance and loss to firms
who have a large correspondence with Great
Britain. — Ernst Benary, E'fart,

Dried plants from Eastern Asia.— At the
Linnean Society recently, Mr. W. Botting
Hemsley exhibited dried specimens from the Kew
Herbarium of a number of plants from Eastern
Asia, several of which are of a highly ornamental
character; and from his remaiks thereon there is
no doubt that Western China will yet yield a rich
harvest of hardy and half-hardy plants, equalling
if not surpassing those already in our gardens
from China and Japan. The best thing of all,
perhaps, wa« a new Jasminum from Yunnan, sent
by Mr. W. Hancock. It is closely allied to J.
nudiflorum, but it has primrose-yellow flowers
l.\ inches in diameter. Among other pretty plants
wore two new Gesnerads, of which there are
many lovely Chinese members only known in a
dried state in this country.

The proposed national vegetable exhi-
bition.— A meeting of the general committee took
place at the Royal Aquarium, Westminster, on
the 12th inst., Mr. H. Biiscoe-Ironside in the
chair, and after receiving a statement from Mr.
E. Molyneux, the hon. secretary pro tern., in
reference to the amount of support promised by
members of the trade and others, and a full dis-
cussion had taken place thereon, it was resolved :
" That as the prospect of holding a national vege-
table show at the Royal Aquarium is by no means
of an assuring character, the carrying out of such
an exhibition in September next be postponed to
another year." Votes of thanks were passed to
Mr. E. Molyneux for his services as secretary, he
promising to retain this office until some definite
arrangement was come to ; to the Royal Aquarium
Society for permitting the committee to meet in
that building, and to Mr. H. B. Ironside for pre-
siding.

The late W. Baxter.— A curiously interest-
ing item occurred for sale at Sotheby's auction
rooms on Friday last, when a selected portion of
the library of the well-known antiquary, the late
Mr. William Kelly, F.S.A., &e., was dispersed.
The item to which we refer was a folio manuscript
volume of over 400 pages, and dealt with plant
lore, customs, superstitions, &c, relating to the
floral world generally, collected chiefly by the
late William Baxter (of whom there is a portrait
inserted), with additions by Mr. Kelly himself.
The volume shows very wide acquaintance with
both classic and comparatively modern writers

and the volume is a monument of painstaking
industry. That it should have remained unpub-
lished is not surprising, for publishers have learned
from expensively purchased experience that books
of this kind do not pay. Even the volume itself
— the work of many scores of hours— was only
valued at £3 Zs. 6d., at which price it passed into
the hands of Mr. Quaritch, the bookseller. —
W. Roberts.

Severe weather in South-Eist Durham.—
I beg to send you a few notes on the severity of
the weather as experienced here from the 6th inst.
up to and including this morning, the 13th, and
the different temperatures taken during that time,
thinking the same may be of interest, and that
you would like to publish them : 6th, 24° of
frost; 7th, 22°; Sth, 45°; 9th, 32°; 10th, 40° ;
11th, 28°; 12th, 20°; 13th, 31°. These tempera-
tures have been taken in an exposed situation
with the thermometers on a board close to the
snow line. In two other positions in the gardens
quite apart from each other and very much shel-
tered, with the thermometers 4 feet from the
ground, the readings have been just 5°abovetheso
figures. These readings are taken from Negretti
and Zambra's minimum thermometers. This is
the greatest frost I have ever known, and I am
inclined to think that present appearances warrant
its continuation. It is rather more than six weeks
since the severe weather commenced here, viz.,
December 31, since which time the ground has
been covered with snow, and at present, though
none has fallen for a little over a week, it is 7 inches
deep. — H. E. Gribble, Wynyard Park Gardens,
Sloekton-on- Tees.

The weather in West Herts.— The past
week has been the coldest of the present winter.
During the seven days ending the 11th the
highest day temperatures have been even colder
than what the lowest night readings would bo in
an average February, while on four successive
nights, temperatures below zero were registered
by the exposed thermometer. The present frost
has now (Wednesday) lasted without a break for
twenty-three days, and for the last seventeen
days the ground has been covered with snow to
the mean depth of from 1| inches to 3^ inches. The
lowest readings have been as follow : —

Feb

6

7

8

»)

9

In Thermo-
meter Screen.

22° of frost
24J „ „
24° „ „

**<5 )i >»

On Snow.

Number of

hours Air Temp.

remained at nr

about its lowest

point.

33° of frost
34° „ „
33° „ „

5 hours

6 „

5 „
30 minutes

These are all lower temperatures than any pre-
viously recorded here in February. The frost has
now penetrated the giounel to the depth of 19
inches, and but for the covering of snow would
have descended still deeper. Owing to the power
now exerted by the sun and the clearness of the
atmosphere, the temperature rises rapidly during
the daytime. Indeed, on the 11th inst. my solar
radiation thermometer (black bulb in vacuo) at
4 feet above ground rose to 103° during the
sunniest part of the day. During the fortnight
ending Monday last the wind blew exclusively
from some point between N. and E.S.E. — E. M.,
Berkhamsted.

London Pansy and Violet Society's show

will be held at the Crystal Faliee, Sydenham, on
Saturday, July 6.

Names of plants. — F. T.— l, Dendrobium War-
dianum ; 2, apparently leaf of Pbaius maculatus ; 3,
Laurel leaf, apparently eaten by caterpillars.

The Wild Garden : or, the Naturalisation and Natural
Grouping or Hardy Exotic Planti, wth a chapter (in the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth ed-tion, uith vood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Parsons revised and enlarged, lemy
8ro, linen chth. Price\2s.\ veil bound in half morocco, IBs.
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEN.

125

No. 1214. SATURDAY, February 23, 1895. Vol. XLVII

" This is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

Orchard and Fruit Garden

DISBUDDING PEACHES.

This important operation will be receiving
attention in early Peach houses, and on its cor-
rect or otherwise performance depends in a great
measure the success or failure of the trees in
the future. That head gardeners are quite alive
to the importance of proper disbudding is
proved by their doing the work themselves in
the majority of gardens. This was brought
before me very forcibly a short time ago by a
gardener from a large place, asking me if I had
a man that I could recommend him as foreman
for the fruit department that could be relied
upon to disbud Peaches properly. On replying
in the negative, and also stating that I always
did that operation myself, the reply was, " It is
always the same. During the whole time that I
have been head gardener (about twenty-five
years) I have never had a fruit foreman that
had performed the work, his former chiefs hav-
ing always done it." If this is general, and I
believe it is, the question might be asked why
gardeners do not instruct their young men more
on this important matter, so that when they are
called upon they may be able to do it in a cor-
rect and satisfactory mode. For the future I
shall try to instruct any young fellows that may
serve under me how the work ought to be done.
Disbudding Peaches is like all other garden
operations, viz., performed in different modes
in many places, according to the practice of the
head gardener, and it is astonishing to see how
well Peaches and Nectarines succeed under what
some men would call drastic treatment in dis-
budding. What I should term drastic measures
is to do all the disbudding at one time, which I
have seen done on several occasions in places
that I was a probationer in. In each case the
disbudding was thoroughly done at once, plenty
of room being allowed for full expansion of
wood and foliage. Although growth seemed to
cease for about a week after the disbudding, the
trees soon made a fresh and vigorous start and
perfected fine crops of fruit. The soil in each
place was very good for all stone fruits, and
it is doubtful whether success would have fol-
lowed similar practice on a very light and
sandy soil, and it is also a question if
better results would not have followed a more
rational system in the gardens referred to. On
all sorts of soil and on any form of trees, I
believe firmly in doing all disbudding by degrees,
thus avoiding any checks, with the consequent
liability to red spider or other insect attacks. It
is a very easy matter to commence by removing
all the worst placed buds immediately they are
large enough to rub out, and afterwards taking
away those buds that are not required in the
more favourable positions. Only a keen eye and
experience will teach which buds should be left
to form new wood, but as a rule it is wise to
leave a bud as near the base of each shoot as
possible, also one near the end to draw up the
tap, and keep fruit that may be thereon from
swelling. For a number of years I have allowed
these terminal buds to form about five or six
leaves, and then stopped any further growth by
pinching out the points. By this means grand
fruit is obtained, as all the strength is thrown

into the fruit. If no fruit is on the shoot and
there is room for full extension of the young
growth, no stopping is done, but they are
allowed to go on unchecked. Where the soil is
light and not of the most suitable character for
obtaining large Peaches and Nectarines, I can
strongly recommend the system of stopping the
young growth beyond the fruit. The soil I have
to manage is of that description, but by thus
checking growth and giving applications of
plant food, I have had many Peaches weigh up
to 18 ounces each. At the same time I believe
the early and gradual system of disbudding has
been a considerable factor in the fruit attaining
such a size, as no check to either growth or root
action ever takes place, and although more time
and extra work be involved by doing it, full com-
pensation is received by the highly satisfactory
progress made by the trees and their fruit.

w. a. c.

digging about and cropping near fruit trees is one
that muse be governed by individual convenience
and demand. By all means devote a good space
to the roots of trees when this is found to suit the
requirements of the place, but no doubt plenty of
readers can ill afford to do so, and are compelled
by force of circumstances to do what they would
not otherwise attempt. Exactly the same applies
to trees growing in open borders, although hero
there is not the same value set on the space for
planting as near walls.— Wiltshire Gardener.

Grape Gros Colman.— Mr. Young (p. 94)
speaks disparagingly of this Grape as regards the
quality of its fruit, which I agree with, but, at
the same time, it is of all Grapes the most useful
for invalids, being very juicy, fleshy and not
sweet, which is a great point in such a case.
Where attention is paid to the culture of late
Grapes for the benefit of invalids it is well to grow
a few canes of this kind. Here Grapes are
reserved for the exclusive use of invalids after
November, none being ever used by the family.
— E. M.

Apple Devonshire Quarrenden. — When
writing on dessert Apples in a recent issue I quite
intended mentioning the above Apple, as I con-
sider it an excellent and most useful variety. Old
gardeners will know it well, especially those
located in the eastern counties where it may be
frequently met with. We frequently see two
Quarrendens catalogued, the red and the Devon-
shire. Some gardeners think they are identical.
I do not. The former is larger, thicker in the
skin, resembling the Norfolk Beaufin, and with-
out any trace of colouring in the flesh, and alto-
gether inferior to the old Devonshire Quarrenden.
The original variety ripens in September, is fiery
red externally, with a pinky flesh, and although
but small, crops regularly, is of excellent flavour,
and keeps a considerable time after being
gathered. Twenty years ago large orchard tress
of this Apple were very plentiful in Essex, the
fruit being much valued for the dessert. — J.
Crawford.

Digging- round fruit trees.— There is much
truth in the statements of "Y. A. H."and "J. C."
respecting the practice of digging too near fruit
trees, whether these be on walls or in the open
garden, but the limit which is very often advised
to be given up entirely to wall trees cannot
always be entertained, for the reason that the
space is invaluable for small vegetables and salads ;
and in gardens of limited extent from which a
large demand has to be met it is altogether out
of the question to devote several feet in width of
border exclusively to the wall trees. It is possible
to grow early Lettuces, Radishes, Turnips, Horn
Carrots and even Potatoes without disturbing the
soil deeply about the roots of trees, particularly if
old potting soil and decayed leaves can be put on
the surface for the particular purpose of growing
such extra crops. Usually a narrow path is pro-
vided for the convenience of attending to the
trees and gathering their crops, this varying in
width and distance from the walls according to
the requirements of those in charge. By some, the
paths are never allowed to be broken up with
spade or fork ; in other cases just the opposite
happens, and under both systems good returns are
known to result. The narrow border between
wall and path is just the place to forward an early
batch of salads and vegetables to follow those
forced under glass, and there are cases where as
much value is set upon these as upon the fruit

LARGE AND GOOD GOOSEBERRIES.
Having grown the Lancashire Prize varieties of
Gooseberries for many years, I can confidently re-
commend the following sorts to those who may be
thinking of forming a collection. Some imagine
that the larger Gooseberries are without flavour.
Such, however, is not the case, many of these be-
ing delicious when properly exposed to light, air,
and sun. Indeed, they well repay wall or trellis
culture, and are in September preferred by many
to any other fruits. When grown as ordinary
bushes the trees require to be kept extra thin,
and as their habit of growth is somewhat awkward,
the lower branches should be supported by short
forked sticks A very good method of preserving
the fruit from the ravages of birds is first to con-
struct a framework of rough wood over the trees,
afterwards covering the same with small-meshed
wire netting. This may remain over the trees from
year to year.

Taking red varieties first, 1 would place Clayton
in tho foremost rank, this being a large handsome
berry, of brilliant colour and good flavour. It
ripens rather earlier than many others. Duke of
Sutherland is another grand berry, the tree being
a free yielder and capital grower. Dan's Mistake,
a well-known fruit amongst exhibitors, must also
be included, being beaten by very few of the
newer varieties. Lord Derby, a variety somewhat
late in ripening, is a first-rate fruit, and Speedwell
is indispensable where size and appearance are im-
portant. The best white varieties include King
of Trumps, Lady Leicester, an early variety;
Freedom, also early ; Alma and Careless, two va-
rieties which for general good qualities have
stood the test of time. The best yellows are
Criterion, Leader, Leveller, a marvellous berry,
seldom beaten on the exhibition table, and
Trumpeter. In the green section, Drill, a very
old variety, still takes a good deal of beating.
Keepsake, an early ripening sort, Matchless,
Plunder, and Telegraph, all of which are very tine
in berry, of good colour and quality, may safely
be planted with all the fore-named by those who
int nd exhibiting.

J. C.

DISEASED VINE ROOTS.
With the greater part of the roots so thoroughly
dead as those sent, it is not to be wondered at
that the crops were a complete failure, ihey
could not well be otherwise. It has been my lot
to have to renovate a considerable number ot
Vines, but never yet came across roots dead or
dying in such an wholesale manner. In his toot-
note " J P. M." states that these dead roots were
taken from the inside border, but why did he not
also mention whether the roots are alive c* dead
in the outside border, and then I could better have
advised what to do in the matter? This is no ordi-
nary case of failure, and the roots must have been
very badly treated for them to have perished out-
rio-ht in the manner they have done. Root fibres,
a8°l have frequently proved, are very easily
crippled, an overdose of chemical manures fre-
quently doing more mischief in this respect than
those who use them have apparently any con-
ception of, but it requires something extra strong
to kill old roots. If the soil had not boon wel
watered for many weeks or months this would
have scarcely led to the death of the larger roots,
and in any case those roots outside would have
contributed more to the support of the crops as

much value is set upon these as upon tne iruiu cuui.iiu»«~ — »-■ " , .l ','l _ aunear to have
furnished by the trees. Therefore the question of I well as the inside roots than they appear

126

THE GARDEN.

[February 23, 1855.

done. Supposing the roots both inside and out-
side are nearly or quite all dead from some cause
not explained, it is very doubtful if the Vines are
worth keeping any longer. Without an analysis
it is not possible to say whether the soil of the
borders is rendered unfit for the roots or not, but
I should be disposed to cut a test trench a little
way across the inside border at about 4 feet from
the stems. From this the work of forking away
the soil towards the stem could go on. If fresh,
live roots are met with in appreciable quantities,
then the soil is not poisonous to them, and there
is also a probability of the Vines being restored to
good health. But if only a very few live roots
are found in the inside, and a similarly conducted
search discloses the fact of the outside roots being
in an equally bad plight, I should advise rooting
them out and starting afresh, planting inside in a
perfectly new border.

Making a new border and replanting fresh
Vines is a formidable undertaking not to be
entered lightly upon, especially seeing that in
addition to the expense there is also a loss of one
full crop and part of another to be reckoned with.
We will, therefore, discuss the possibility of reno-
vating the old ones, if eight-year-old Vines can be
termed old. They are really not old in the ordi-
nary sense of the word, as they ought to be in
their prime. I and others have been successful in
restoring Muscat of Alexandria Vines twenty
years and upwards in age to a very profitable
state, but then we had live, if very fibreless old
roots to deal with. Vines just beginning to break
may be lifted clean out of the soil, the long old
roots being shortened to a length of 4 feet or there-
abouts, and all be slung up, matted over, and
kept moist, while the stale, old soil is changed for
fresh soil composed much as follows : To every
cartload or ten barrowloads of fibrous yellow loam
add two barrowloads of fresh horse droppings,
two barowloads , of old mortar or lime rubbish,
two barrowloads of burn-bake, one bushel of soot,
and one half hundredweight of crushed bones.
After duly cleanly cutting over the ends of the
broken roots, cut a few notches on the upper side
of the old ones at intervals of 3 inches apart, and
then relay all in the fresh soil much in the order
as they spring from the stems. Vines treated in
this drastic manner have actually given a few
good bunches the same season, but it would
have been better for the Vines and more pro-
fitable in the long run not to have cropped
them till the following year, or when they
were better able to withstand the strain. If
Vines with their stems partly outside are
treated in this manner, a mild hotbed should be
formed on the border directly afterwards, this
warming the soil and hastening root action con-
siderably, and it would pay well to warm up in-
side borders in the same way. Vines with their
roots gone principally beyond control and doing
badly accordingly might first have the large old
roots bared from the stems outwards to a distance
of :i feet or rather more, and after they are
notched be covered with a rich compost to which
" burn-bake," that is the residue from a garden
smother or slow fire, has been freely added, and a
mild hot-bed formed over this. By the following
autumn this should have promoted the formation
of numerous healthy young roots, which might be
led out into fresh compost added after the whole
of the border in front with the straggling roots
has been cleared away. If soil cannot be col-
lected for a fresh border or even for adding
breadths, that is to say, forming a border piece-
meal, those in charge wdl have to be content to
bare the surface roots at least half way across the
border, notching, but not shortening the large
naked old ones. Then if these are covered with
li inches of fresh rich compost, a mild hot-bed of
leaves and manure would draw fresh roots into it,
good surface treatment subsequently keeping and
increasing them where they derive the full benefit
of what is given in the shape of manures, to say
nothing of the extra warmth and air that fall to
the lot of roots near the surface. "J. P. M."
might first see what can be done towards recover-
ing the old Vines, and at the same time be pre-

paring for the possibility of having to root them
out. If eyes are at once placed singly in small
pots and started in a brisk bottom-heat, the
plants resulting if shifted into 6-inch pots before
they become root-bound would be quite large
enough for planting in an inside border by the
first week in May. Twice the number intended to
remain permanently should be raised and planted,
and then if all goes on as well as it ought to do,
the supernumeraries will be quite strong enough
to give two or three bunches each next season,
cropping them still harder in 1897, and rooting
them out when the permanent rods are in a con-
dition to bear three bunches apiece without any
after ill effects. If it is decided to root out the
old Vines at once, there will be time to replant
small pot Vines of last season's growth, and in this
case again supernumeraries ought to be provided.

RAISING AND PLANTING VINES.
Althoucih great numbers of pot Vines are still
grown for sale in strong bottom-heat, gardeners
are every year becoming more opposed to plant-
ing them in permanent borders. That the plan
of employing much bottom-heat is wrong must be
evident to all who have had even the least experi-
ence in the matter. In many instances young
Vines in nurseries are plunged in a bottom-heat
of not less than 90° in not over light houses and
as thick as Beans in a field, little air being ad-
mitted in order to force growth as much as pos-
sible. Under such conditions the roots formed
are soft and flabby, the fibrous portion invariably
perishing when the pots are removed from the
plunging bed and exposed to the weather against
walls and in open sheds in autumn. If anyone
doubts this, let them turn one of these Vines out
of the pot and examine the roots, and they will
soon become convinced. Of course, those grown
for fruiting in pots are allowed more room, the
earliest rooted being selected and put into larger
pots, but even these would be much better with
less heat at the roots, and though of less circum-
ference, yield better crops in the end. A friend
of mine, a successful Grape grower, who always
raises his own Vines on the non-bottom-heat
principle, recently planted a house, but not hav-
ing Trebbiano he purchased a Vine of it which
had been grown in strong bottom - heat. It
looked strong, but had few living fibrous roots,
and after exhausting its stoied-up sap ceased
growing for several weeks until new roots were
formed. These came slowly, and by the time
growth had reached half way up the house, those
raised at home, and which when planted were no
thicker than goose quills, had reached the top
and gone some distance down the back wall. As
soon as Vine eyes have well rooted round the
small pots and made growth 4 inches in length,
they should be shifted into pots 4J inches in dia-
meter and again returned to the warm bed until
growth is again resumed, after which they should
be raised and stood on the surface for a week, and
finally on a Moss-covered shelf near to the roof
glass and free from draught. The Moss serves
to retain the moisture.

A Pine stove or similar structure suits them
well till a second shift is given and as the season
becomes somewhat advanced, less heat will
suffice and plenty of air become necessary. For
planting canes 9-inch pots are large enough, as by
these becoming quickly filled with roots early
maturity is encouraged. A good holding loam, a
little bone-meal, and some old plaster refuse
form a good rooting medium, as manure water can
always be given when needed. When harden-
ing otf the Vines in autumn I prefer plac-
ing them in a cool airy house to standing them
out of doors, as they are more under control,
and root moisture can be regulated at the culti-
vator's will. Vines grown in this way will have
abundance of hard fibrous roots, which will sur-
vive the winter and promote a healthy vigorous
growth when planted the following spring. In
legaid to planting, some prefer cut-backs, and
doubtless they are best for outside borders. For

planting inside, however, I have a great liking for
Vines raised the same year and planted in a grow-
ing state, say, in May or June. If the soil about
the roots is warmed, the young Vines do not feel
the removal at all, but go right away and soon reach
the top of the house. Fresh horse manure spread
on the surface will draw the roots upwards and
prove an effectual trap for wireworm. I have also
seen good results from shaking yearling Vines out
of the pots, cutting back all long shoelace roots
and repotting, planting the same out in a warm
inside border when 1 foot or 2 feet of new growth
was made. J. Crawford.

Destroyers.

HARD WINTERS AND INSECT PESTS.
An impression prevails that periods of severe
weather are instrumental in diminishing the num-
ber of enemies that gardeners have to contend
with. This may be the case as regards birds, for
undoubtedly many are starved to death in hard
winters, but I am convinced that neither slugs nor
snails are reduced in number by prolonged frosts.
I remarked particularly after the nine weeks' un-
interrupted frost that we experienced several
years ago, and when the soil was frozen to a depth
of nearly a foot, that these destructive little
pests were the following spring as numerous as
ever. Their long rest seemed to have rendered
them more than usually voracious. I am con-
vinced that snails will travel the whole length of
the garden in search of a safe retreat for the
winter. Ivy either on walls, trees, or as edgings
is sure to attract them, as will also Box edging.
They may be frozen as hard as a brick and will
take no harm, as I have more than once proved.
Where snails are troublesome among vegetable
crops and the walks are bordered with Box it is
well to examine it before increasing warmth and
tender vegetation induce these troublesome pests
to wander from their winter quarters. Many
hundreds may be captured in this way before they
have the time to do any damage, and as one
snail will lay about fifty eggs, the destruc-
tion of a few dozens only in early spring will
save the grower much annoyance later on.
And here it may not be out of place to allude
to the incessant warfare waged by the thrush on
snails. It is, in places at least where snails
abound, a mistake to kill off thrushes. Far better
to encourage a pair to nest in the garden. Being
surrounded by fields, I am liable to be much
troubled with snails and slugs, but for several
years past there has been a considerable diminu-
tion in the number ot the former. This is, I
believe, in a great measure owing to a pair of
thrushes building and bringing out their young
in the garden. By the quantity of shells laying
about it is easy to see how busily the birds have
been at work. The thrush is in some ways trouble-
some to the gardener, but I am confident that,
taking the year through, he does more good than
harm. As regards aphides, caterpillars, and grubs
of various kinds, I am doubtful if severe weather
has any diminishing effect on their numbers. The
latter find their way to a considerable depth below
the surface on the approach of winter, and the
eggs of moths and flies are as impervious to frost as
are the seeds of most plants. Were it not so, some
species of insects would be almost or quite exter-
minated in such weather as we are now passing
through. The eggs are, so to say, glued on to
the plant or tree on which the perfect insect is to
feed later on, and unless they fall a prey to birds
they will come to life in spring, no matter what
the winter may be. The blue and long-tailed tits
destroy myriads of eggs during the winter monthp.
They are constantly flitting from tree to tree and
eating the eggs of moths and aphides, which, in-
visible to the naked eye of man, are easily found
by them. If one could but keep the blue tit from
ripe fruits it would be the most valuable friend
the gardener has. J. 0. B.

February'23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

127

A WATERSIDE GARDEN.

Our illustration represents the fringe of the
Water Lily pond in the College Botanic
Gardens, Dublin, and is a simple example of
what may be done in beautifying water margins
in a permanent manner. The pond itself is
not a large one and i3 of oblong form, and
had a stiff and ugly outline before its bare
banks were covered with vegetation as here
shown. Some few years ago the water supply
was augmented, and the margins were then
roughly trenched, plenty of fresh manure being
added. At the same time the best of M.
Latour Marliac's seedling Water Lilies were
planted in the pond, and the margins were
planted with Gunnera manicata, the large-leaved
plant on the left of the picture, and with the
red and green-veined forms of G. scabra seen at
the further end. Golden and Cardinal Osiers

room should be given them, and it is well-nigh
impossible to supply too much manure either
in the soil at planting time or in the shape of
top-dressings afterwards. Wherever there are
ponds or streams in or near the garden it is
easy to make their margins full of interest by
fringing them with bold subjects such as those
shown in our picture, and the best time for
planting is in April or May, so that a good
growth is obtained before winter sets in.

F. W. Burbipke.

The weather. — No frost so intense as that we
are now getting has been felt in this neighbour-
hood since the Christmas eve of 1860. Of that
night no actual record has been kept, as the ther-
mometers then in use here would not register
much below zero, but it was the generally received
opinion that from 42° to 45° of frost were experi-

when we registered 3° below zero. This only
continued for one night, but much damage \va^
done to Roses and shrubs. — J. C. Tallack.

Chrysanthemums.

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM GROWN FOR
SPECIMEN PLANTS.

One would think, to read much that is written
about the Chrysanthemum, that the principal use
of this plant is to grow big blooms for exhibition.
The object is laudable enough in its way, for
large well-grown blooms are very beautiful, but
it is possible that they are disappointing to some
people who take notes of the best blooms and
want to see them on the plants in their own

A waterside garden. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by Miss Armstrong, Clifton Terrace, Monkstown, Dublin, Irelar,

also fringe one side, and there are masses of
Osmunda, Lythrum, Arundo conspicua, Iris,
Polygonum, Bamboos, Saxifraga peltata, and
Arum Lilies (Richardia). One of the most
effective plants early in the summer is the
golden-leaved Iris pseudacorus, and Primula
japonica also flowers and seeds freely along the
grassy margin. During the warmer months of
the year Nymphsea Chromatella, N. Marliacea
carnea, rosacea, exquisita, N. Leydekeri rosea,
N. pygmrea Helveola, N. alba, N. candidissima,
N. odorata, and other kinds are very beautiful
in form and colour. Aponogeton distachyon
flowers and seeds freely, and Villarsia nymphaj-
oides is almost too luxuriant.

Hundreds of golden carp are happy also in
summer gliding about amongst the Water Lily
leaves, but they are now under 8 inches of ice
with the skaters gliding over them.

In the planting of such rampant growers as
are the Gunnerasand Polygonums, plenty of root-

enced. At that time Laurels and Portugal Laurels
were killed wholesale. Hollies perished in great
numbers; the buds on the Walnuts were killed —
though of course they were then dormant — and
even the Oaks suffered greatly, though the severe
frost only lasted a few hours. It is to be hoped
that the present frost will not have such disas
trous results, but much damage will have been
done, and many things hardy in the majority of
winters will undoubtedly be killed. For weeks
past we have been frost-bound, but nothing un-
common occurred until the afternoon of Tuesday,
the 5th inst. , when the thermometer fell rapidly,
reaching zero about 8 p.m., and getting gradually
lower until 37° of frost was registered. Yesterday
(the (jth), in spite of strong sunshine, it froze ail
day, and by 7 p.m. zero was again reached, and
by 1 a.m. to-day 39°, or 7° below zero, was regis- ;
tered. There is every prospect of a repetition of
severity again to-night, the wind being easterly
and the barometer high. During the past eight
years the previous lowest reading of the thermo-
meter was on the morning of January 18, 1891,

gardens. For instance, in The Garden (p. 58)
we read that a variety — Miss Dorothea Shea —
was distinguished as being the best bloom in a
large exhibition, not a word as to the plant the
bloom was out from, until W. A. Young says
his plants grew to a height of 9 feet, and that
he does not think he will grow this kind again.
This is a fault with other varieties, and it does
seem that the time has come for raisers of the
Chrysanthemum to look for dwarf, sturdy-grow-
ing plants, that will not grow so tall that ladies
cannot see the beauty of the flowers without
mounting a ladder. Mr. Tallack on the same
page writes heresy on large blooms. He likes
Mrs. H. Cannell— says when well grown it is
magnificent in size, but by size he does not
mean depth. He hates depth, and terms it
lumpiness. Surely all the best judges are
agreed in giving good points for depth. The
great height of the plant Mr. Tallack says is
its one bad point. This spoils many otherwise

128

THE GARDEN.

[February 23, 1895.

beautiful varieties. I mention the point of
height because the best specimen plants are
obtained from such as are of moderate growth.
To obtain good specimens either for exhibition
or to place upon the stages of the conservatory,
1 would advise putting in the cuttings early,
and they should be taken from root suckers —
that is if root suckers can be obtained, for I
have often found it impossible to get such ;
whereas they can be readily obtained growing
from near the base of the main stems, and
in this case it may be better to dig the plants
out of the soil entirely and repot in a 5-inch or
6-inch flower-pot after removing most of the
soil from the roots. For ordinary purposes it is
not essential that the plants should be grown to
a single stem seen distinctly above the mould,
but for exhibition ,'purposes it is the general
rule that each specimen should have one stem
clearly visible above the potting soil, so that if
any growths are produced close to the surface
of the ground it is better to rub them off, as
four or five shoots from the main stem are
quite sufficient to form a good specimen. All
varieties of Chrysanthemums of medium growth
or below it should be grown from these
old plants, the more vigorous varieties from
cuttings put in either in December or very early
in the year. If medium-sized or small speci-
mens only are required to embellish the green-
house, the cuttings may as well not be put in
until March. Whenever they are put in it is
as well to see that they continue to grow without
any check ; if they receive a check, either by
becoming pot-bound or by being placed out-of-
doors from a garden pit or frame without being
well inured to the transition by free exposure,
the chances are that the plants may be thrown
into bloom in the month of May. I well
remember growing on a fine set of plants
some twenty years ago, and all went well until
May, when the plants had grown a considerable
size, and one after another formed hundreds of
flower-buds, and the most remarkable part of it
was that I could not trace the cause. Some-
times the cause is apparent at once ; it may be
the fault of the gardener sometimes, but a check
to the plants' growth may occur and the cause
be beyond the skill or knowledge of the best
cultivator. I remember one occasion, which I
may give as an illustration of the old adage,
"there is many a slip between the cup and the
lip." The first collection I had nnder my own
control was in 1850, and I worked hard to get
t.hem up into a fine healthy condition. The
weather was fine the first week in May and I
had all the plants out by the 8th of that month,
when that very night came a change and the
poor plants were exposed to 8° of frost.
Since that time I have always been careful not
to expose the plants too freely until the end of
May, and even that is not the safety point, for
I remember later in 1862 or 1863 the Potatoes
and Brackens were cut down by a sharp frost
early in June in the county of Surrey, and many
Chrysanthemum growers will long remember
the severe frost in May of last year, when many
fine collections were cut down near London.
If the plants can be laid down and a covering of
scrim or tiffany thrown over them they may
be saved, or a light tiffany covering may be
used without disturbing the plants.

It may be well to give a few directions as to
the cultural requirements of specimen plants.
It should ever be borne in mind that the roots
are formed rapidly, and they speedily exhaust
the soil, so that it requires renewal. This can
best be done by repotting. Many cultivators,
for convenience and to save trouble, shift their
Chrysanthemum plants from small pots into the
sizes wherein they are to flower ; but plants

trained as specimens make greater masses of
roots than those grown to produce single blooms.
The reason of this is obvious. The specimen
bloom plant has all the growths pinched out ;
one main stem grows up, which in time divides
into three, or perhaps two only, and two or
three blooms are all that will be obtained from it.
The specimen plant may produce a hundred or
more blooms. I have known a specimen of
Mrs. George Rundle — a two-year-old plant —
produce 300 fine blooms ; it was grown to one
main stem, of course. To produce so many
blooms considerable leafage is necessary, and
the more the plants spread, as rapidly do the
roots increase. The best way to repot speci-
men plants is this : The cuttings are put in
singly into deep 2l-inch pots, and when they
have well rooted repot them into large 3-inch
pots, from these into large 4|-inch or 5-inch,
next into 7-inch, from thence into 9-inch pots,
and they will produce their flowers in 11-inch
or 12-inch pots. Of course, repotting must take
place in each case before any of the pots get
root-bound. By these successive shifts the
plants grow steadily and fill the soil completely
with their roots from centre to circumference.
The same rich compost is needed for pot
plants as is used to produce large blooms. They
require weak liquid manure water as soon as
the flower buds .set, and by this time the plants
ought to be well established in their flowering
pots. As the buds set the growths may be
trained into position in order to form a well-
balanced, moderately dwarf plant. Some culti-
vators have an idea that the more dwarf a
plant can be grown the better it is ; indeed, I
have seen immense specimens as flat as a pan-
cake measuring 15 feet in circumference and
not more than 18 inches high. This is a
grievous mistake ; depth should be considered
as well as height, and the whole plant should
possess its natural proportions. A very large
specimen should be proportionately taller than
a small one. The plants should, of course, be
grown out of doors in an open position well ex-
posed to sunlight, and the skill of the cultivator
is exercised in keeping the leaves in a healthy,
green condition until the flowers are fully ex-
panded. Green fly attacks them, and this must
be disposed of while they are under glass by
fumigating. If they are attacked out of doors,
tobacco'powder dusted upon them from a pepper-
box will have the desired effect. A rather more
insidious enemy is that troublesome parasite,
mildew ; it is almost sure to appear in clouds in
October ; in fact, so certain are we of its being
present, that I always syringe the plants well
with soft soapy water in which a liberal propor-
tion of flowers of sulphur has been mixed up ;
the plants are laid upon their sides and the
under sides of the leaves are well syringed. This
method of dealing with the mildew is better
than that of dusting with dry sulphur ; it is
more effectual at first, and also more lasting.
After this thorough syringing the mildew is not
likely to appear after the plants are taken into
the house.

It may not be amiss to treat a little of the
pompon Chrysanthemum. The little Chusan
Daisy is a different plant altogether from the
Japanese or Chinese species. To produce good
plants, the cuttings should be put in early.
They would do now with a little bottom-heat,
and as cuttings and young plants their treat-
ment is exactly the same as the others, but -they
can be flowered as well in 9-inch flower-pots as
the large-flowered section can in 11-inch ones.
Smaller specimens are much more effective than
large ones, but for exhibition purposes the
larger the specimens are the better, if size of
plant and quality in the blooms are combined.

Many years ago I cultivated very large specimen
plants for exhibition, and I counted upon one
of them 1400 blooms open at one time. The
plant was grown from a cutting planted in
December trained to one stem, and flowered in
a pot 85 inches in diameter, inside measure.

J. Douglas.

Chrysanthemum Boule de Neige. — " E.J."
scarcely quotes me fairly when criticising my re-
marks as to a certain similarity between Boule de
Neige and Ethel. He should in fairness have in-
cluded my remark, " the difference being in size,
Boule de Neige being smaller flowered." As
" E. J." may see if he will, I was writing at the
time of the flowers themselves and not of the
habit of the plant or of the section to which it
belonged. I did not wish to make my notes over
long, and perhaps was not quite so explicit as I
might have been. However, the points of simi-
larity which I see are these : erectness of petal,
the exact shade (if I may say so) of whiteness,
and the tendency to show a black centre. I do
not know that this last point is a blemish if not
carried to excess, as the black centre serves to
intensify the whiteness of petal. The shape of
petal is certainly different, Ethel being, as
"E. J." says, pointed, but I think he will find
that many of the petals of Boule de Neige are not
rounded, but slightly indented at the end. With
regard to length of petal, I think there is but
little difference when taken in proportion with
the size of the individual flowers. I can scarcely
agree with "E. J." that neither of these two will
be required, as Boule de Neige will be always
acceptable for supplying sprays of bloom when
large flowers are not cared for. — J. C. Tallack.

Chrysanthemum W. H. Lincoln. — In
writing of W. H. Lincoln " S. W. P." (p. 104)
gives an instance which — unintentionally on his
part — bears out my note on disbudding this va-
riety. All I wished to recommend was to grow
the plants on for terminal shoots and to reduce
the buds to one on each of these instead of attempt-
ing to get sprays of bloom. I gave the number of
such buds as from nine to twelve on a plant,
this being the average number of shoots. Of
course I was writing of one-year-old plants grown
in ordinary-sized or 85-inch pots, and I think the
number of flowers given relieves me from the charge
of excessive disbudding. As a matter of fact, two
at least of our plants bore fourteen well-developed
flowers each. " S. W. F." takes an old stool,
plants it out, and lifts the plant in October,
putting it then into an 11^-inch pot. No wonder
the plant did its own disbudding and that the
"centre bloom seemed to monopolise the sap to
such an extent that the others refused to swell at
all, or developed into small, mis-shapen blooms,
showing but a dozen or so yellow petals." I pre-
fer to do my own disbudding, and not to leave
it in this way to oiitraged Nature. " S. W. P."
again, unconsciously and with delicious naivete,
says that "a nurseryman offered 4s. for the plant
as it stood," i.e., one penny per bloom and the pot
thrown in. I do not envy your correspondent the
gold mine he would open up by growing "a few
hundred such plants " even at double the price
offered. — J. C. Tallack.

Carnation Duke of York. — Has any reader
of The Garden any knowledge of this new tree
Carnation ? I learn that it is a capital winter
bloomer, and that the London market growers are
propagating it extensively. If this be true, it will
be a great acquisition, as its colour is so much in
its favour. Its fragrance also is, I believe, similar
to the old crimson Clove, this fact also adding
greatly to its value. I have this year grown Uriah
Pike for winter work, and am so far satisfied with
it. It opens well and the colour is truly lovely.
Its scent is likewise welcome. I do not think
it will ever make so much "grass" as old tree
varieties, but if the plants only grow to half their
size, it will be worth growing, its colour being so
distinct. — J. C.

February 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

129

Flower Garden.

PRIMULA NIVALIS.

This is a remarkably fine and distinct species
now almost lost to cultivation. Dr. R?gel de-
scribes it as one of the most beau iful species of
the genus. It is found in the Alps of Afghanis-
tan and Nepaul, but is a common Siberian
Primrose. The flowers vary from reddish or
rose-coloured to deep purple and violet. P. n.
var. purpurea, a typical Himalayan form, is one
of the most difficult Primroses to manage under
cultivation. It seems to require being kept per-

Primula nivalis. Engraved for The Garden
from a photograph sent by Hiss E. Willmott,
Warley Place, Great Warley, Essex.

fectly dry during the late summer and autumn.
Indeed in its native habitat we are told it is
buried in snow from early October until May,
and although this may not account for our want
of success, it seems to point to the fact that our
open moist winters are the reverse of welcome
to P. purpurea. It is a very handsome Primrose
if it would only stay long enough with us to en-
able us to find suitable means for growing it.
It grows at elevations of 10,000 feet to 14,000
feet in the Himalayas.

Violets in frames. — The past fortnight has
been very trying to Violets, especially where not
growing in heated pits, so that frost can be kept
out and the lights uncovered each day. In many
places frame batches have been covered up with
mats and litter for some time past both by night
and day. This will come hard on plants that are
at all weakly or injured by spider. When they
are uncovered they must be carefully dealt with,
air being admitted only in small quantities at
first. One of the greatest mistakes made with
Violets is watering during winter. I always re-
move mine to the frames in October, give a good
watering to settle the soil well about the roots,
and then let them wait till February for a further
supply. Winter waterings play sad havoc, causing
wholesale damping, especially if sharp weather
occurs and they have to be kept in darkness for
some time. Hand-picking should be practised
several times during the winter, removing all
mouldy and yellow leaves and well stirring the
surface soil with a pointed stick. Some advocate
mulching the plants with cocoa-nut fibre in the
autumn as a preventive against damp, but I
never could see the good of it, and in sprino- it
certainly keeps the sun's warmth and air away
from the roots. Good cultivation in summer, so
as to secure good sturdy plants, coupled with
careful airing and surface stirring in December
and January, are the only guarantees against the
inroads of damp and disease. — J. Crawford.

The Hollyhock. — I write a few lines on this
grand autumn flower because it is the time to
propagate plants for flowering next year. The

one desperate enemy we have to contend with in
the process of propagation is the Hollyhock fungus
(Puccinia malvacearum) ; it is in every collection,
and the air seems full of the tiny spores which fly
about like dust in the sunbeams. I tried to grow
plants in an open field from seed where Holly-
hocks had never been grown, and before the end
of the season the disease was there in a virulent
form. Where could it have come from ? was the
question, and sure enough it was in the parish, and
at the railway station above all places, from whence
it could be carried on our clothes as we passed
to and fro. A fine florist remarked the other
day when I was bewailing the disease, " How is
it that we never had any of these diseases when I
was a young man ? " I could not answer this
question ; who can ? The disease may appear on
the cuttings or on the growths grafted upon roots.
If it does, Condy's fluid can be applied to it with
a small brush and it arrests its progress. The
cuttings or root grafts must be planted singly in
very small flower-pots in moderately moist soil.
Plunge them in a moderate bottom-heat and do
not give them any water until roots are formed.
Sometimes slow-rooting varieties require water,
but it should not be given until it is seen they
really need it. The succulent growths rot at the
base if water is given to them too freely. Remove
them from the frame as soon as it is seen they are
rooted. — J. D.

COLOUR IN FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

Of course Mr. Douglas does not intend it, but
his remarks--p. !)1 — as to the disregard by
florists of his "pretty bizarre Carnation"
which "had stripes and flakes of rose and pur-
ple on a white ground " are likely to lead
those not familiar with florists' flowers to sup-
pose that this combination of colours in the
Carnation is "despised and rejected" by
florists. It would be a pity at any rate
if such an inference were drawn, for the
reverse is the fact. The above colour
arrangement is our pink and purple bizarre,
one of the most cherished of our class Carna-
tions. _ No one thinks a stand of "class"
Carnations complete without this beautiful
type being represented, as a glance at the re-
ports of the exhibitions would at once show.
The two leading flowers of this class are Sarah
Payne, which this year celebrates its jubilee,
having been bloomed as long ago as 1845,
and William Skirving, which was first flowered
in the wintry summer of 1879. Let anyone
read the late Mr. DodwelFs enthusiastic descrip-
tion of the flowers in this class— pp. 98 and 99
of his book on the Carnation — if he wants to
know the florist's appreciation of the pink and
purple bizarre.

I saw Mr. Douglas's Harmony in flower at
Gravetye in 1888, and I have Mr. Moon's ex-
cellent representation of it (The Garden,
December 21, 1889) before me as I write. It
was a very pretty flower undoubtedly, but it
could only be by courtesy a pink and purple
bizarre ; it had not enough of the bizarre
character in it.

I also remember the pale rose flake Carna-
tion shown at Slough on July 30, 1883. Mr.
Douglas doubtless refers to Mr. Dodwell's
Dorothy, a very pretty flower, which was much
admired. It was a great favourite with the
raiser, who, however, as he distinctly stated in
his list at the time, did not offer it as a class
flower. Dorothy, pretty thing as it was, was
really as a rose flake but a half-developed
flower. In a season or two the beautiful pale
rose had paled away almost to nothingness.

Our bizarres and flakes having their own
well-defined characteristics are naturally at ex-
hibitions kept strictly to themselves. But so
far from florists "despising" or "rejecting"

the beauty which belongs to Carnations of
other types, classes for these are provided at
the exhibitions of all our societies, so that no
flower with any element of beauty in it sutlers
disregard or exclusion.

If a Carnation which is not a true bizarre or
flake is refused admission to these classes, so
equally is a flake or bizarre denied intrusion
into the ranks of the other flowers.

M. Rowan.

Twelve good Rhododendrons.— The fol-
lowing choice varieties of Rhododendrons may
be relied upon for giving satisfaction where new
beds are being formed. The colours are very tell-
ing, the constitution of the plants good and the
habit of growth dense. Baroness Schrceder,
delicate white, finely spotted ; Countess of Clan-
carty, beautiful light crimson, a magnificent
truss ; Earl of Shannon, fine deep crimson, show-
ing well in the distance amongst lighter colours ;
Frederick Waterer, another of the crimsons, very
fiery, extra good constitution ; Helen Waterer, a
pure white flower, with a crimson margin, very
telling : John Waterer, a deep glowing crimson,
extra free bloomer, plant very vigorous ; Lady
Eleanor Cathcart, a rose-coloured flower, with
numerous chocolate spots, delicately beautiful ;
Michael Waterer, rosy-scarlet, a very bright
flower of large size, plant vigorous and foliage
extra dense ; Mrs. John Clutton, probably the
best white in cultivation, very telling in the dis-
tance, especially when associated with scarlet
sorts ; Purity, a good white variety, with a faint
yellow eye, an uncommon and distinct flower ;
Sir Humphrey de Trafford, a very showy bright
rose flower, with yellow centre, indispensable ;
William Evvart Gladstone, very rich rosy-crimson,
an immense truss, should be in even the smallest
collection. — J. C.

WOOD SORREL.

(OXALIS ACETOSEI.LA.)

It is well for us that of the large family of
Oxalis, our familiar little wood plant should be
one of the most daintily beautiful. In copses
and mossy hedgerows and among the Moss unde

Wood Sorrel (Oxalis Acetosella). Engraved for
The Garden from a photograph setit by Miss
Jekyll, Munstead, Godalming.

Larch and Spruce, where hardly any other plant
will grow, this frail flower with its brilliant
leaves makes one of the prettiest flower-pictures
of early summer. It is well worth a place in
the garden, be3t perhaps on some mossy bank
among Ferns, where garden merges into wood ;
but it will do in almost any cool half-shaded
spot where it will not be dried up in summer.
G. J.

Supporting- Hyacinth spikes. — Difficulty
is often experienced in supporting large heavy
spikes of Hyacinths without spoiling their
appearance. Sticks are unsuitable, as unless
placed in a slanting position — which looks bad —
they must be thrust through the bulb. Wire

130

THE GARDEN.

[February 23, 1895.

supports are the best, being cut into the required
lengths and bent at the base so as to overlap the
bulb, the lower portion entering the soil of the
pot. These can be gently wcrked in amongst the
petals of the truss so as to come close to the main
stem, to which they can be fastened at intervals
by means of thread. If the plants are wanted
for exhibition the wires are improved by being
painted a green colour. The wire should not be
used thicker than is absolutely necessary. — J. C.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
Sweet Peas. — A stretch of wire fencing on the

top of a stone balcony some 50 feet long by 4 feet
high was covered last summer with Sweet Peas,
and the result being a decided success they will be
used this year for the same purpose. Some stout
boxes 12 inches square and as much in depth were
made from 1^-inch planking, and painted outside
to match the stonework of the balcony. Just a
thin bit of drainage, consisting of a single layer of
crocks and a handful of dry cow manure, was
used, and the remainder of the boxes filled to
within 1 inch of the top with a compost of three
parts loam and one of short manure. The Peas
were sown thinly in the boxes, and the latter
placed in a cool house until the seed was up and
the plants fairly well advanced. They were placed
in their summer quarters in May, and brought in
loosely to the wire trellis as the growth advanced
with occasional lengths of twine, after culture con-
sisting in keeping them supplied with plenty of
liquid manure water and in the prompt removal
of seed-pods. The variety grown was Emily Hen-
derson, and I found it admirably adapted for the
purpose. As stated in a former note, there is
nothing to choose between this variety and Mrs.
Sankey so far as individual flowers are concerned.
They were growing together in the open last year,
and towards the close of the season it was impossi-
ble after mixing the varieties to separate them.
In point of growth, however, there was as much
difference between them as between a very long
and a short-jointed Vine rod, and it is this short-
jointed, compact habit coupled naturally with
very free-flowering properties that makes Emily
Henderson specially suitable for growing under
the conditions above named, although it must be
noted that these characteristics were equally
noticeable in open-air culture. If the new white
Blanche Burpee, which is certainly unapproach-
able in size and form of flower, is equally short-
jointed and free-flowering, it will be a decided
acquisition. If Sweet Peas are to be sown in pots
for future planting out they should go in at once.
Sow preferably in small pots to avoid splittingthe
ball at planting-time, and when the plants are up
harden off for a time before planting out. Birds
will be found very troublesome where the seed
is sown in the open, and a few coal ashes will
have to be placed over the rows so soon as there
is the slightest sign of seedlings coming through.
They should be staked as soon as possible, and a
few rows of cotton may be run round the bottom
part of the sticks to check the ingress of birds.
Where it is proposed to use Sweet Peas as a screen
through the summer months and it is advisable
that such a screen should present a fresh, bright
:ippearanco right through the season, the ground
must be thoroughly well dug ; also, if the
weather prove hot and dry, heavy surface mulch-
ings and occasional soakings of liquid manure may
be required and constant removal of seed-pods
will be necessary. If there is a doubt that
attention cannot be given to these matters, it is
better to give up the idea of a screen of Sweet
Peas and to utilise sucii things as Canary Creeper
and the green and variegated forms of Humulus
japbnicus, for if there are few more beautiful
features in a garden than a healthy row of Sweet
Peas clothed with flower from top to bottom, the
same row has a very rubbishy appearance when
comparatively bare of flower and yellow in foliage.
Preparations fok summer. — Where a con-
siderable quantity of dark foliage stuff is required
of the height of ordinary Pelargoniums and Be-

gonias, the highly-coloured or fine-leaved Beets,
as Dell's Crimson or the Dracana-leaved, will be
found useful, and if the ground where they will
be required is not at liberty, it is advisable to sow
in small pots towards the end of the present
month. I am not, however, an admirer of Beet
for flower garden work ; there is a stiff', heavy look
about it which no form or style of planting can
alter. It is much better where this kind of foliage
is required to work up a good stock of herbaceous
Lobelias. One gets nearly the same shade of
colour in the leaf, and in addition — albeit some-
what late in the season — the grand spikes of
flower. Very pretty and effective beds on a large
scale can be made by planting groups of these
Lobelias alternately with Pentstemons and work-
ing a carpet of dwarfer stuff — Violas for example
— between them. In overhauling the stock of
Lobelias that were autumn-lifted and packed
away with the Strawberries in a cold pit, and that
have now been cut to pieces and boxed, I was
particular to note if there was any sign of the
rotting of which some correspondents have
complained, but found no trace of it. The
majority of those plants to be raised from
seed that are likely to be required for the
flower garden through the coming summer need
not be sown until the beginning or middle of next
month, but if anything is left over that should
have been included in the late January sowing,
it should receive immediateattention — such things,
for instance, as the hard-seeded sub tropicals,
silvery Centaureas, and Begonias. So far as the
fibrous section of the last-named family is con-
cerned when a stock of any given variety or
varieties is once acquired, the old plants can be
lifted, stored away in boxes for the winter, and
divided and started early in the year. In addition
to their value for outside planting, we find them
useful as box and vase plants, also in pots for
massing in large [bowls for the dinner-table. If
Fuchsias are to occupy a prominent position in
the garden, young plants should be grown on
quickly to secure stock of well-shaped stuff by
the end of May, always choosing those varieties
combining a compact growth and free-flowering
qualities. If Dahlias are to be raised from seed,
this should go in at once, and if any propagation
by cuttings is required, the old plants must be
soon started. It is a mistake to delay the propa-
gation of these plants ; they want rather a long
season, and if only very small stuff at planting
time, they are so long making headwaj' that the
season is very far advanced before they are well
in flower. E. Bdrrell.

Ctaremont.

SWEET PEAS.
For affording a heavy and continuous supply of
cut flowers from June till November inclusive, it
is doubtful if any annual can be named that may
be said to equal in value Sweet Peas. They were
always more or less popular, but since Eckford,
Laxton, and others have taken them in hand a
considerable improvement has been effected both
as regards the size and the colouring of the
flowers. We now have a distinct and beautiful
selection of named varieties, all of which can be
depended upon to come true from seed. It is not
to be expected that these novelties can be bought
as cheaply as the older unnamed forms, but ac-
cording as they get into more seed growers' hands
the cheaper they will become. Thus we can now
buy Mrs. Gladstone, a lovely pink ; Princess Bea-
trice, pale rose-pink, and both very popular for
bunching by themselves, at comparatively cheap
rates ; while Primrose, a pale cream ; Emily
Henderson, an American novelty, and Mrs.
Sankey, both fine whites ; Splendour, pinkish
rose, extra fine flower and long stems ; Monarch,
crimson and blue ; Countess of Radnor ; Ignea,
crimson and scarlet ; and Dorothy Tennant, rosy
mauve, are sold at rates that ought not to deter
anyone from growing them. Of the medium-
priced varieties some of the best are Captain of
the Blues, Princess May, pale shade of helio-
trope; Her Majesty, good rose-pink, with extra

strong stems ; White Eagle and Blanche Burpee,
good whites ; while of the more expensive novel-
ties, Duke of York, rosy pink and primrose, very
attractive ; Lady Penzance, rich rose, and a fine
flower ; and Meteor, orange-salmon and pink, can
be safely given a trial.

When the packets of seed of thee 3 newer va-
rieties are opened they are found disappoint-
ingly small, and it sometimes happens a want
of quality is also very apparent. Now unless
the seed is sound and good, committing it to
the open ground before it has had time to be-
come warmed somewhat is a risky proceeding,
and even if it did germinate satisfactorily,
there are always enemies to be reckoned with in
the shape of mice and slugs. In order, therefore,
to be sure of a good display the precaution should
be taken of sowing the seed under glass, and now
is the time to attend to this detail. Fill 2J-inch
pots with good loamy soil and sow five or six seeds
in each, covering with 1 inch of soil. Place in
gentle heat and give a watering if the soil is at all
dry. It is worthy of note that soaking the eeeds
in warm water till they have swollen considerably
will hasten germination by about four days.
When the seedlings are 2 inches in height, transfer
to either a Bwing shelf near to the glass in a green-
house or else to a cold pit, where they should be
kept till strong enough to plant out. Those five
or six plants, or even a less number, will be found
ample for forming isolated groups or for planting
6 inches apart in continuous rows. We prefer the
single groups, arranging these at the back of long
borders in the kitchen garden at a distance of 4
feet apart, as being in the long run less formal
than, and more profitable to, rows. The sites in-
tended for these Peas should be broken up, where
possible, two spits deep and some good rotten
manure mixed with each spit. If this is done it
matters very little if Sweet Peas occupied the
same position in the previous year or years pro-
viding the manure, or, better still, a rich compost
of fresh loam, manure and fine mortar rubbish is
freely substituted for or mixed with the old soil.
In our case there is space for at least seventy-five
good groups at the back of beds of dwarf Roses,
and as the position suits Peas admirably without
detriment to the Roses, it is invariably chosen for
the Sweet Peas. Curiously enough, the growth
first formed by Peas raised in pots rarely reaches
a flowering height, and it is the growths that spring
up from the base that do such good service, these
growing and branching more strongly and flowering
more continuously than do any plants raised
where they are to flower — requiring taller and
stronger branching stakes accordingly. This
might not be the case if they were raised more
thickly in pots, and thick sowing is also a great
mistake in ,the case of Peas sown where they
are to flower. During the tropical heat of 1893
Sweet Peas gave few or no well-formed flowers,
but those planted out and liberally treated at the
roots, good soakings of water and liquid manure,
as well as a mulching of manure being given, did
not collapse utterly, but rallied and flowered
freely in the autumn. It should be remembered
that allowing rows or groups of Sweet Peas to
early mature a heavy crop of seed is the Burest
way of closing their career, and if it is done, a
succession of flowers can only be kept up by making
successional sowings, something after the manner
culinary Peas are sown and grown. We find that
wholesale cutting of the flowers, either when fresh
enough for use or else directly they have faded, has
the effect of keeping the plants growing healthily,
and, as a rule, those planted out of pots in April
continue to flower freely till severe frosts inter-
vene. Those who wish to save their own seed should
sow or plant out choice varieties in positions not
too conspicuous, allowing all the earliest formed
flowers to be followed by seed-pods, and netting
over where necessary to protect the crop from
birds. Immature or badly ripened seeds are not
what should content growers of Sweet Peas.

So much are Sweet Peas valued in some quarters,
that it is deemed advisable to flower some in pots
as early in the season as possible. If, instead of
transferring all the newly-raised plants from a

February 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

131

warm house to cooler quarters, a few pots of them
were given a shift into 9-inch or slightly larger
pots and kept in gentle heat till the roots had
taken possession of the new soil, then arranging
them on a staging in a warm greenhouse, a few
stakes and good attendance at the roots would do
the rest. They would pay well for the trouble.

Selwood,

WHAT'S IN A NAME?
To the Editor of The Garden.

Sir, — I am conscious that in discussing this
question of botanical nomenclature in the pages
of a horticultural journal I am somewhat in the
position of a wrong plaintiff pleading in a wrong
Forum, for in the first place I am not myself
among those who are impatient of or object to
the use of names of Latin or Greek origin, and
in the second the decision of the matter rests
with the Olympians of botanical science who
presumably lie beside their nectar - forging
thunderbolts of new botanic genera careless of
the sighs and twaddle of mere gardening men.
Anyhow, here we are,strictly speaking, coram rum
judice. But as (to judge from the initials under
which he writes) we appear to have obtained the
ear of at least one savant, and as " F. L. S. "
(p. 88) happens to make precisely the remark
that has always struck me as ostensibly the
most desirable line to take in botanical classifi-
cation and nomenclature, I should like with
your permission to amplify the subject a little
further. 1, too, would wish to ask whether the
creation of sub-genera would not meet the case
in very many instances, and if not, why not 1
Science is knowledge, and the simpler and
straighter that we can make the paths to the
temple of knowledge the better for all. No one,
of course, would deny this in the abstract. The
science of botany consists in the amassing of the
knowledge of and classification of the vegetation
of the earth. The direct objects of the science
are various, and some of them no doubt have
a direct bearing on the interests of man other
than those connected with his pleasures, but the
vast majority of men who are concerned or
who concern themselves with vegetation in any
variety unquestionably do so as attracted by the
beauty of flower and foliage, or by the sym-
pathy and interest which appear to be in-
grained in man towards the vegetable life tint
surrounds him. I say this simply to establish the
fact that gardeners are at any rate not without
some locus standi in the matter. All botanists
have probably been originally attracted to the
study by the mere love of flowers, and not by any
innate interest in "receptacles'' or in the problem
whether petals are hypogynous, perigynous or
epigynous ; while, on the other hand, to many
gardeners (myself amongst the number) botanical
interest, i.e., the knowledge of the fact that a
plant is " wild somewhere," is an immense en-
hancement to the interest attaching to it.

It is, of course, well known that what con-
stitutes difference or distinction in the eyes of
ordinary people, whether gardeners or other-
wise, has not or need not necessarily have any
value whatever from the scientific point of
view. Apart from the colour of the flower,
which is nothing to the botanist, and which he
not unfrequently does not even concern himself
to describe, even the growth and habit of a
plant is, or may be nothing also — at any rate so
far as differentiation of genera is concerned.
On the other hand, what constitutes botanical
difference, amounting to difference of genera,
is indistinguishable to the vast majority of
mankind ; it is only vaguely understood by
many who take a general interest in plants ;
while the authorities themselves frequently

seem unable fully to determine the nature of
the differences, and are certainly often disagreed
as to their relative values. It is, therefore, this
very vagueness and disagreement on the part
of the doctors of science which seem to entitle
one to argue that, where the question of multi-
plicity or simplicity is more or less equally
balanced, the scales should be allowed to turn
in favour of the latter rather than of the former.
Any well-known class of plants will do to illus-
trate what I mean, but I will take the Iris, the
more so as Mr. J. G. Baker's monograph of the
genus is a model, as I venture to think, of what
classification should be, and where it falls short
of being a perfect model (as from my present
standpoint 1 am entitled to argue that it does)
it affords an excellent illustration of how the
principle of adhering to the common at the
expense of the less common name might con-
ceivably have been extended. The common
Flag Iris (I. germanica), the common Spanish
and English Irises (I. Xiphionand I. xiphioides),
I. sibirica, I. orchioides (a very eccentric plant),
and I. tuberosa are all Irises. No ordinary
person seeing them in flower would, of course,
suppose otherwise ; but equally, of course, no
ignorant person seeing them in growth or
at rest would suppose them to have any
special affinity, for they live and have
their being under obviously distinct con-
ditions. On the other hand, a plant which
any of your readers who keeps The Garden
may find figured in Vol. XXXVI., p. 174,
under the name of Dietes Huttoni is not an
Iris, but is a Monea, to which it is now dis-
tinctly referred under the name of M. spathacea ;
and this leads me to ask (what is, indeed, the
point of the whole matter) how far Mr. Baker
would have damaged scientific accuracy had he
transferred the whole of Monea to Iris, treating
it, it may be, as section 2 of that family i

The line of demarcation, he himself states,
betwe?n Iris and Monea has been drawn in
different places by different authorities, and,
following Bentham, he places Iris exclusively
in the N. Temperate Zone, and Monea in the
Cape, Tropical Africa, and Australia, thus treat-
ing the Equator with the respect in which
Sidney Smith's friend was so lamentably want-
ing. Whether or no the line of the Equator or
any other line of latitude be botanically water-
tight I cannot, of course, pretend to say, but I
am bound to admit that, if all from the North-
ern Hemisphere are Irises and all from the
southern are Moneas, we can reasonably ask for
nothing further in the way of simplification. I
may remark, however, before leaving the sub-
ject that very many of the Moneas have pre-
viously been named as Irises. The well-known
Peacock Iris, for instance, has been named and
is often still sold as I. pavonia. It seems, too,
to have been known as I. trieuspis, though its
present orthodox name is Monea glaucopis. Tore-
vert, however, to the main question, is there any
valid reason from the point of view of science
why botanical nomenclature should not be sim-
plified by the classification as " sub-genera " of
many closely-allied families of plants now
treated as separate and distinct genera I Would
anyone be the less wise, for instance, if my old
friend Microglossa albescens (I regret Imero-
glossa, by the way, with or without his asperate)
had been allowed to retain it3 old name Aster
cabulicus ? which seems from the date (1842)
when it was first " introduced " to be an inter-
esting reminiscence of the first Afghan expedi-
tion. I am aware that the late Professor Asa
Gray recognised a terrible lot of these rank-
growing Asters, but being so many already, a
few sub-genera under the heads Microglosste,
Boltonife, Stenactis, A-c, would but consolidate

their ranks. The same thing applies to the
Bellflowers, for they are certainly all bell-
flowers, whether they may have retained the
name of Campanulas, or may have been trans-
ferred or referred to Codonopsis, Platycodon,
Wahlenbergia, or what not.

With regard to specific nomenclature gener-
ally, I agree with '' F. L. S.'' that we cannot
very reasonably complain. Many of the German
and Russian names no doubt look and sound
clumsy and uncouth to our eyes and ears, and
many of the specific names given in England
and Western Europe are silly enough. But in
the former case, if the Russians are so good as
to go to Central Asia to find us Irises and bulbs,
it is only fair that we should allow them to
name them as they please ; while in respect to
our own backslidings in this way, it must be
remembered that the enormous number of new
species constantly requiring naming makes it
difficult to find tolerably good epithets, all the
Latin and eponymous adjectives of any point or
sense having already been used up over and
over again.

As to the names given by nurserymen and others
to florists' flowers, the matter is of very little
importance to the vast majority of the garden-
ing public. Few people, I imagine, trouble
themselves to retain names of this sort in pri-
vate gardens. The only real importance of a
good name is when, as sometimes in the case of
such a thing as a Rose, a plant becomes verjr
popular or " indispensable," as the nurserymen
say. Painful cases of this sort unquestionably
occur sometimes. One of your correspondents,
alluding to the eponyms of certain popular
Roses, observes that in real life "they are
doubtless worthy people." This, however, need
not necessarily be accepted. One of them, I
feel convinced, somewhere beyond the Alps, is
a lady of exceptional charm, who, had she but
known the destiny that awaited her, would have
arranged to curtail her Christian name to one,
and that a monosyllable ; but with regard to
another — here in the pages of a gardening paper
devoted to the promotion of all forms of
aesthetic beauty — we can havcnocomplimentsto
exchange. The fact that somehow or other his
name has got itself attached to the best yellow
button-hole Rose in cultivation can only be
regarded by all right-thinking men with sorrow
and reprobation. J. C. L.

Books.

A HANDBOOK TO THE BRITISH

' MAMMALIA.*

This book is the latest of the series known as
" Allen's Naturalist's Library," and in many re-
spects is the most practically interesting. Hitherto
books on the British mammals have been few and
far between, Bell's "British Quadrupeds" (the
second edition published in 1S74) being, we believe,
the last to deal with the subject as a whole. In
the present case the author has drawn largely
from Macgillivray's "Manual." And as regards
the habits of the creatures he describes, he has
also had the benefit of the original observations of
Mr. A. Trevor-Battye and Mr. W. E. de Winton.
The valuable report of Mr. J. E. Harting on the
" vole plague " has also been used to good effect,
and the author acknowledges his indebtedness to
Mr. A. G. More, of the Dublin Museum, for infor-
mation about Irish mammals. The book opens
the bats (order Chiroptera), the only mammals
endowed with true flight like birds. A pecu-
liarity of these animals is that the knee is
directed backwards. Although in its flight seem-

* " A Handbook to the British Mammalia." By 11.
Lydekker. Allen and Co., 13, Waterloo Place.

132

THE GARDEN.

[February 23, 1895.

ing to prefer the neighbourhood of the earth, bats
have been known to ascend to great heights in
search of food. Its characteristic zigzag and un-
certain flight no doubt gave rise to the say-
ing, " blind as a bat." but if the defect of vision
exists, the author makes no mention of it. With
the public generally the bat can scarcely claim to
be a favourite, being neither beautiful in repose
nor graceful on the wing.

We therefore pass on to the insectivores, in
some respects of structure allied to them. Among
these we have the hedgehogs, moles, the shrews,
rats, mice, voles, martens, polecat, weasel, hares,
rabbits, the fox, wild cat, badger, otter, deer,
wolf and bear. Many of them are names of terror
to the agriculturist and breeders, and not always
with discrimination. The hedgehog is an in-
veterate egg-stealer, and, on the other hand, the
quantity of grubs and noxious vermin he consumes
renders him serviceable in the garden. There is
something also said for the mole, which, to quote
Macgillivray, "by destroying vast quantities of
worms and grubs is to be considered as conferring
a benefit on the agriculturist.'' The voracity of
the mole is said to surpass belief almost. A cap-
tive mole has been known to devour an amount of
food exceeding its own weight in the course of a
single day. Allied to the mole through the des-
man is the shrew, "an elegant little creature with
thick, soft fur, a long, slender and pointed muzzle
and a short body." Nocturnal in its habits, its
shrill squeak is often heard in hedgerowsand woods
during the summer months. This harmless little
creature was long the victim of a curious supersti-
tion. It was supposed that a shrew-mousewherever
it crept over a beast — be it horse, cow, or sheep —
the animal was afflicted with great pain and
threatened with the loss of the limb. A member of
this family, the water shrew, has a partiality for the
fry of fish and for frog-spawn. Of the carnivores,
the Pine marten has almost disappeared from the
southern and midland counties, though it is said
to linger still in Suffolk, North Devon and, it is
believed, in Epping Forest. In the lake districts
it is regularly hunted with beagles and terriers.
The ferret is a domesticated variety of the pole-
cat. The stoat or ermine, though often confounded
with the polecat, is in reality a very different look-
ing animal. Its most remarkable peculiarity is the
assumption in the colder portions of its habitat of
a yellowish white winter dress in substitution for
its normal coat of reddish brown fur. Akin to
the stoat is the weasel, the relentless foe of the
vole and of the common rat, and therefore a bene-
factor of humanity, notwithstanding the on-
slaughts it occasionally makes upon the poultry-
house. The badger, or, as it is called in many
parts of England, the "brock," was formerly
abundant in the British Isles, and is far from being
rare, even in these days. Within the last thirty
years the presence of badgers has been recorded
in upwards of twenty-nine English counties. Few
people, perhaps, are aware that many places, such
as Brockenhurst, Brocklesby, Brockhall, Brock-
ham Green, &c, derive their names from the
badger or "brock," a nocturnal animal, living in
pairs. Its favourite food is the grubs of wasps,
and "except that it may destroy a certain number
of the eggs of game birds, it is harmless alike to
the game preserver and the farmer. " The accusa-
tion of killing young foxes, which is sometimes
brought against the badger, is said to be without
foundation. A more founded charge is that of
frightening sheep in their pens at night, by which
the sheep, being often fat and heavy-coated,
are liable to hurt through coming in contact
with the feeding troughs. Of the rodents, the
squirrel is a general favourite for its beauty,
agility and dainty ways. It is less generally
known, perhaps, that the squirrel will devour
both young birds and eggs. This carnivorous
habit,' however, is said to be only a depraved
taste on the part of certain individuals. The
destructive family of mice and rats are dealt with
at considerable length. The rat, according to one
authority, is one of the worst enemies of game
preservers — "a great devourerof pheasants' food,
to say nothing of young pheasants " — which pro-

pensity, as the rat issues stealthily after sundown
into the grass-side where the food has been scat-
tered, gives opportunity to the brown owl to
render important service. Not the least impor-
tant part of the book is that devoted to the vole.
Among the family Bovidas, mention is made of
the Chillingham herd. These half-wild cattle are
seldom met with now in British parks. They
are described as handsome animals with brown
muzzles, the insides and tips of the ears red, but
elsewhere they are milk-white. Many of the cows
are hornless. They are said to have the charac-
teristics of wild animals in a pre-eminent degree,
with some other peculiarities, such as hiding their
young, feeding in the night and basking or sleep-
ing in the daytime. Generally speaking, they are
very timorous, though if pressed will turn upon
their assailant. Their small size is said to be the
effect of constant interbreeding.

NOTES FROM AN IRISH GARDEN-A
RETROSPECT.

Quite a number of pretty and interesting
things came into flower during the past season,
notably a mass of the distinct Helonias bullatus.
There were about 700 scapes in flower together,
many of the clumps producing several each, the
effect of such a number of pink-blue-anthered
flowers together being charming, and I should
say uncommon. Lithospermum hirtum in
masses 2 feet or so across was excellent. In
colour this is a deeper orange than L. canescens,
and perhaps a shade taller, with a distinctly
better constitution. My experience with this
plant is that one should not follow too closely
the information which collectors send home. I
was told that it grew in dry, sandy places,
which here did not suit the plant at all, and it
was not until I placed it in quite a different
and much moister spot that it grew freely.
However, as it belongs to the Borageworts and
as most of them like moisture, this w as rather
to be expected. Again, "dry, sandy places"
is often a misleading notion, as the sand may
be dry enough on the surface, but wet enough
down below, and the far-reaching roots of a
Borage may thus obtain all they need.

One of the most lovely things of the year
was Iris macrosiphon var. flava. The flower,
produced on a stem 3 inches or 4 inches high,
was about 4 inches across, of a pleasing and
distinct shade of creamy buff, covered all over
with a sort of brick-red reticulation quite dis-
tinct and unlike any Iris I have ever before
seen. This plant must have its toes at least in
water. Another very charming plant was
Mertensia virginica roseo-coerulea. The dis-
tinct shade of rose was clearly visible 100 yards
away. The worst feature about this plant is
that propagation will be necessarily slow.
Tiarella cordifolia albiflora is quite distinct and
worth recording. The flowers in this case are
pure white, anthers and all. It is quite aa free
growing and flowering as the ordinary Foam
Flower. Arenaria montana was quite excel-
lent in all positions, but my best specimen was
one which had taken possession of an Osman-
thus about H feet high, and which it completely
covered and spread itself out into a patch quite
a yard across. Thus it became a mound of pure
white delightful to see. Amongst the Cam-
panula, Edraianthus dinaricus was beautiful, a
crowded mass of soft blue about 9 inches over.
The Edraianthus are charming plants, and it is
a pity that their season is so short. Oenothera
ovata was another beauty, a stemless species in
habit like a Primrose and producing its clear
yellow flowers in the same way. Dodecatheon
media alba major was a very fine thing, the

largest size, very numerous and pure in colour.
Bellis sylvestris aueubsefolia is quite distinct,
the leaves having numerous yellow spots. As
this is evergreen, it is capable of affording a
pretty bit of effect at a time when there are no
flowers. Funkia lancifolia albiflora is quite a
charming thing, with flowers of the purest
white, and being quite hardy anywhere is an
acquisition. The only pure white - flowered
Funkia (F. grandiflora; is only hardy enough to
flower in a few j)laces. T. Smith.

Newry.

JANUARY IN SOUTH DEVON.

1895 has commenced its reign rigorously, the
mean temperature of January having been 4°
colder than the average for the last sixteen
years. On twenty-four out of the thirty-one
dajs did the mercury fall below freezing point.
The lowest reading on the grass at the usual
reporting station was 18 4°, but in one low and
damp garden the thermometer showed 17° of
frost. In spite of the cold, the sun has shown
itself more than is its wont in January, 89 hrs.
45 min. of sunshine having been recorded
against an average of 70 hrs. 50 min., and a re-
cord of 04 hrs. 55 min. for January, 1894.

The rainfall has been slightly in excess of the
average, the latter being 3 40 inches, while 4' 10
inches with twenty wet days, against 4 49
inches with twenty-six wet days for January,
1894, have been registered.

Of the last twelve months, January, 1895,
has, with the exception of its immediate pre-
decessor, December, been the most windy, 7551
miles of lateral movement having been recorded,
the greatest velocity being attained by the wind
on the 24th, when between 11 a.m. and noon
the rate of thirty-four miles per hour was
reached.

In the early part of the month the winds were
for a few days at rest, and an end was set to a
period of unseasonable warmth. At noon the
pale winter sunlight failed to warm the fro-ty
air. At eventide the heavens crimsoned in the
west, and headlands stood out in deep purple
from the haze that hid the sea, and with the
crimsoning the cold strengthened. At night,
when the " goddess, excellently bright," looked
down from her silver crescent, a still more
penetrating chill seemed to shiver from the
frigid skies. These clear, hard days and silent
nights proved but a prelude to weather that can
but merit the term of abominable. The wind —
the black noith-easter that Kingsley, lover of
flowers that he was, had the bad taste to greet
with an ode of adulation — swept down upon us,
the skies were full of snow clouds, and the
ground soon white with the thickly-falling
flakes. When the white carpet was 2 inches
thick, the fall changed to rain, and on the
heels of the rain came a hard frost, since when
the earth has been encased in sheet-ice.

It is pitiable to note, in walking round the
garden, the vegetable world in its extremity.
Our humble friends the Wallflowers and Forget-
me-nots seem to have not a particle of sap loft
in their limp leaves.

Long fingers of ice fringe the trailing branches
of the Muhlenbeckias that hang at the side of
the swollen cascade, while the dead leaves of the
yellow Water Flag at its base are cased in solid
crystal by continued sprinklings. Veronicas
appear in sorry plight, as do many of the Dra-
caenas, and the continuance of easterly gales
has harmed the Bamboos more than lias the
frost. A Crocus or two and a few Snowdrops
or a venturesome Violet from sheltered corners,
scarlet-blossomed spray of Pyrus japonica

scape«

being nearly 2 feet high, flowers of the | have been almost the extent of January's offer-

35

A

*Wr

z: ------

vulia ]

February 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

133

ings. The Christmas Roses have bowed their
heads to the frost. The early Anemone
shrivelled ere it opened, and the ruby and
cream of the Safrano buds turned to black. It is
the "winter of our discontent."

S. W. F.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1002.

SAINTPAULIA IONANTHA.
(with a coloured plate.*)
Few plants introduced of recent years seem
likely to become more popular than the Saint-
paulia which is shown in the accompanying
plate. We remember that it was well shown at
the last Ghent exhibition, where it was exhibited
by Messrs. Linden, of Brussels. As will be
seen from our illustration, the Saintpaulia,
which represents a new genu3, is much like the
Ramondia in general aspect, and came to us
from theUsambara Mountains, in Central Africa,
being discovered by St. Paul-lllaire, the gover-
nor of Usambara, hence the generic name. The
plant makes quite a tufted growth, with firm-
textured leaves, hairy and of oblong form,
whilst the rich violet-purple flowers are about
3 inches across. The plant when well grown is
in bloom for months together, and is raised
from seed, which should be treated similarly to
that of the Streptocarpus. It is very fine and
must be sown carefully. A warm greenhouse
will grow the Saintpaulia well. Another way of
propagating it is by division of the leaves, only
a bulb is not formed, but fibrous roots.

The Week's work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Successional Tomatoes. — The present is a good
time to sow seed of Ham (ireen, Perfection,
Challenger, or some equally prolific sort that will
be ready for putting into their fruiting pots at the
end of April. These, if grown on from the very
first in an intermediate temperature, will produce
ripe fruit in July and supplement those produced
by the January-sown plants. If at the final
potting a few of the smallest are put into pots one
size less, they will come in most useful for plant-
ing along the back walls of warm Peach houses or
orchard houses where there is plenty of light and
air. These, by reason of having a more extended
root run, may be trained with three separate
main shoots, and, if judiciously fed when the crop
is set, will continue to yield for several months.
Where the roots of old Peach trees are a barrier
to planting out the Tomatoes, they may be planted
in Orange boxes, two plants in each box and
mulched when the crop tells on their energies.
Young seedling Tomatoes should never be syringed
overhead, as it predisposes them to mildew and
other diseases.

Early Vegetable Marrows. — If an early
supply of this esteemed vegetable is needed, seed
may now be sown. These, if planted out in heated
pits or in frames on fermenting material about
the second week in April and the growths well
thinned, will supply good Marrows in June. I
advise sowing the seed in separate pots of small
size, as, like Cucumbers, they do not care to have
their roots mutilated. Time is also saved by this
system. Moore's Cream and Pen-y-byd are the
two most suitable varieties for early work, setting

* Drawn for The Gabden by H. G. Moon in the
Royal Gardens, Kew. Lithographed and printed by
Guillaume Severeyns.

well. A temperature of 60° is one most suitable
to raise the plants in, and if a little bottom heat
is at command so much the better. As soon as
germinated raise the seedlings near to the roof
glass and support with neat sticks as soon as the
first rough leaves are formed, or being top-heavy
they soon fall about and the stems get ruptured
at the base. Early Vegetable Marrows also do
well in large pots if placed in light positions in a
comfortable temperature and trained round stakes
or to wires fixed to the roof or front lights. Good
loam mixed with a fourth part horse droppings
and a little road grit is the best medium for the
plants to root in.

Potatoes in frames. — January-planted tubers,
especially if previously sprouted in warmth, will
now be well above the soil and will require very
careful treatment. Even where a fair amount of
heat has been maintained in the interior by means
of massive manure linings the haulm is somewhat
yellow and drawn by reason of continuous cover-
ings. As soon as the sun strikes the frames the
mats and litter must be removed, but air withheld
until about 11 a.m., a chink only then being given.
This should be withdrawn at 1 or 2 o'clock and
the top coverings again replaced so as to prevent
the escape of sun-heat. Of course, if frost is
absent the lights must be uncovered at daybreak
and not again matted down till dusk. As a rule,
there is not too much head room for growth in
frames containing the earliest crops and only a
limited amount of soil in consequence, and as
earthing up in the ordinary way would be likely
to lay the roots and young tubers bare, the best
plan is to prepare a quantity of fine loamy soil,
warm it, and slightly mound up with this. I am
opposed to much earthing up, as it prevents the
ingress of warmth and greatly lessens the yield.
By this time the soil in Potato pits heated with
hot water will be dry, especially round the sides
close to the pipes. In such cases the middle of a
sunny day should be chosen to give water, this
being nicely chilled previously.

SrccEssioNAL beds. — It is now quite time that
a go 3d spacious bed of leaves or leaves and litter
was made up for bringing on the second lot of
early Potatoes. This need not be of such depth
as the preceding one, as sun-heat will soon greatly
assist growth. Where the soil intended to supply
these frames is still in a frozen state it must be
wheeled into a stokehole or other warm building
to thaw, as if left in the open air a fortnight or
more may be lost. Fresh soil is not necessary,
tha' used last season answering well if a fair
sprinkling of some good artificial manure is added
to it. For frame work at this season I find Puritan
and Sutton's Seedling capital varieties. They are
certainly of rather tall growth, but if a little of
the material is taken from the insides of the
frames before the soil is thrown in more head-
room will be afforded, and the growth can be
pinched before it touches the glass. As this batch
will want plenty of room, an opportunity will be
afforded of sowing Radishes between the rows,
these being fit for pulling before the Potato haulm
shades them too much. A couple of the strongest
shoots will be ample to leave to each tuber, dense
growth in frames being ruinous. Some of the
more advanced tubers of early sorts may now be
removed from the store room and placed in a
warm greenhouse ready for planting in cold
pits or rough home made frames in March. These
will afford new Potatoes several weeks in advance
of the earliest planted on warm borders in the
open air. Snowdrop comes on quickly and yields
well under cool frame treatment, I myself having
grown it in such a position the last two years.

Second early Peas.— With the hope that snow
and frost will soon come to an end for this season,
means should be adopted for getting the ground
intended for second early crops into condition as
soon as possible. Any south borders or sheltered
nooks should be cleared of snow on the least in-
dication of a thaw. This is a great gain, as if it
is allowed to melt and sink into the ground it is
rendered cold, and early root action becomes im-
possible. I have frequently advised sowing Peas
on shallow ridges, particularly where the soil is

not of the lightest and drainage perfect. This
will be especially beneficial this season, and as
there is extra moisture in the ground, dryness at
the roots before the crop is gathered need not be
apprehended. The ridge system is more import-
ant in the case of the wrinkled Marrow section
than with the round-seeded, the latter not being
so liable to rot. Where ground is scarce it is
well to sow an equal quantity of first and second
early Peas in the same rows, not drawing drills
in the usual way, but raking out cavities with the
spade 9 inches in width, and sowing the seed
thinly. Those who did not sow last autumn, or
who have not raised a batch of early Peas in pots
or boxes, will this season find the disadvantage of
trusting to open-air sowings for the first supply.
Peas in small pots sown in January and which
have been in a cooler house for some time past
should now be removed to a cold frame to harden
off preparatory to planting them in their perma-
nent quarters in March. Care must be taken not
to give them too much water, particularly for the
first fortnight, or it may cause the growth to
turn yellow and fail. They must be protected by
means of fish netting even if the lights are only
tilted, as sparrows will find an entrance and
quickly spoil the lot.

Early Tcrnips.— These do well in moderate
heat, and well repay the trouble of culture. If a
bed of good depth of leaves is made up to ac-
commodate either a single or double frame, this
being furnished with from 6 inches to 9 inches of
light loamy soil and the seed sown thinly in shal-
low drills 9 inches apart, it will quickly germi-
nate. When the seedlings can be handled they
must be freely thinned, as crowding soon ruins
young Turnips. A second thinning must follow
when the rough leaves are formed, finally leaving
the plants S inches apart. Abundance of air
must regularly be given, avoiding draughts and
cutting winds, and liberal waterings adminis-
tered, as Turnips delight in plenty of moisture.
For this reason it is advisable to grow them on
fiat beds rather than sloping ones. Sown now
they will be fit for use in May. The best variety
for the purpose is Early Milan.

Early Parsnips. — This nutritious vegetable
does not always receive the attention it deserve?.
The sooner the seed is sown the better, providing
the ground is in workable condition. Scuffling
with five-tined forks so as to aerate and sweeten
the surface is very beneficial where the soil is not
of the lightest. If a few rows are sown at the end
of the month, the roots will be ready for lifting in
September. Deep tilth, freedom from stones and
lumps of soil to the depth of 1 foot or 15 inches are
imperative if clean-grown roots are desired. Par-
snips should also follow some other crop, and not
be specially manured for, or coarseness and rust
are sure to follow. Sow the seed in shallow drills
about 18 inches apart, and as soon as the plants
are large enough to handle thin moderately to
prevent drawing. Where extra large roots are de-
sired for exhibition, plenty of room must be
allowed between the plants, those at the final
thinning being left 1 foot from each other in the
rows. On very shallow soils the ridge system may
be practised ; this increases the depth of sod
for the roots to work in, and also tends to keep the
young roots warmer till growth is vigorous.
Where the soil is unfit for growing Parsnips holes
may be made with a crowbar, these being filled up
with light friable soil. In this case the rows may
be about IS inches apart, and the holes about 1
foot apart. For first sowings the old hollow
crowned variety is hard to beat.

Early open-air Carrots. — If possible a little
seed of Early French Horn and Early Nantes
should be sown before the end of the month, and
if a slightly raised bed in a sheltered position was
prepared as advised some weeks ago, settling will
by now be completed, and a little surface stirring
and exposure to sun heat will render it fit for the
reception of the seed. After sowing, frost may be
kept at bay by covering with dry litter at night-
fall when frost threatens, removing the same early
next morning. A little wood ashes strewn along

134

THE GARDEN.

[February 23, 1895

the drills after sowing is a good preventive against
grubs and other insects.

Small seeds. —Such things as the forcing Cauli-
flowers or Red Cabbage Lettuce sown in heat some
time since must receive attention in the matter of
thinning and hardening off. Remove the boxes or
frames to a warm greenhouse, elevating them well
up to the roof glass, water carefully, and sprinkle
with wood ashes on the first appearance of damp.

J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Early Vines. — With the outside temperature
lower than we have experienced for years it is
difficult to maintain a sufficient temperature with-
out a drying heat, the latter encouraging thrips
and red spider. Those who have small sheltered
houses will reap much advantage over those with
larger ones, as in these latter it is more difficult to
maintain a genial atmosphere. Much may bo
done at such seasons by covering the outside glass
with a warm cover ; indeed, only a slight cover of
any kind is beneficial, as it breaks the force
of cutting winds and prevents the hard firing
so harmful to Vines. If the advice given in
former calendar notes has been carried out, the
Vines will be making good progress, and if in pots
near hot-water pipes with hard firing more moisture
will be required at the roots. If allowed to dry
there will be trouble in the way of bad setting and
other evils. All parts of the house should be
freely damped over, except the Vines and hot-
water pipes, as volumes of steam are most injurious
to the tender foliage. There should be no delay
in removal of superfluous bunches with such va-
rieties as Black Hamburgh, as these rarely fail to
set well, whilst the shoots or growth should be
stopped at the second joint beyond the bunch,
also the lateral growths as they push out at the
first leaf, but this advice may be modified should
the canes have broken unevenly. In some cases
it may be well to leave a greater length of wood
from the bunch or later lateral growth to tie in
bare places. With pot Vines it is also necessary
to throw all the vigour possible into the bunches,
so that it is not wise to allow too much growth.
The leading lateral growth may be allowed to run
freely with planted canes, as if there be room this
will cause a free root growth, but should the
lower growths be at all weak it is advisable to
stop them two or three times during the formation
of the bunches and swelling of the fruit. After
the bunches are set, if the Vines are in pots some
rich surface-dressing should be given in the way
of Thomson's Vine manure mixed with good loam,
and at every other watering tepid liquid manure
may be given. Vines planted out will take liberal
supplies if the borders are shallowand well drained.
Thinning should be done as early as possible to
promote the swelling of the berries left on the
Vines, as these latter when they take the lead
grow rapidly. Temperatures in such seasons as this
should be low than otherwise, GO" to 65° at night
being ample, with a rise to 70° by fire-heat by day
and a liberal rise by sun-heat. Ventilation will
be difficult, though there be bright sunshine, and
admit air in small quantities through the front
ventilators, as then it can be warmed by passing
over the hot-water pipes, and with bright sun-
shine with a chink on the top ventilators there will
be no danger.

Succession vineries.— The Vines started early
in the year will have broken freely, and in most
cases syringing should cease. There is much gain
in having a thick covering of fermenting material
on the borders, as this greatly assists the Vines, and
with those started early this month it may be well
to add a little fresh manure to that which has got
exhausted. This will assist the buds to develop
and save much time in syringine and fire- heat,
and as the bunches show reduce them to the
most shapely. Where high finish — not mere size
of bunch or weight of fruit — is wanted, cut away
freely. Great care will be required in tying down
the lateral growth ; indeed, there should be no
hurry if the wires are a good distance from the
glass. Unfortunately, in many houses they are

close, and in such cases the rods may be given
more play, and only those growths gone over
daily and slightly lowered which touch the glass.
The same remarks as to extension of lateral
growth advised for early Vines apply here, but
more forcibly, as with later houses more space
can be spared for extension and encouragement of
free root growth. High temperatures also mean
a weakly growth, especially at night. In severe
weather 55° will be sufficiently high, even up to
the flowering period, when the temperature
should be raised 5" to 7°, or a trifle more for Mus-
cats. In mild weather 60° at night is none too
high for Vines, but my remarks apply to such
weather as we are having at the time these notes
are written. As the sun gets more power it will
be an advantage to allow the thermometer to run
up to 80° or 90', and during such admit air,
closing always before 1 p.m. and keeping the fires
quiet from 9 p.m. to closing time. Without sun-
heat the day temperature may safely range 10°
more than that advised during the night. Well
waterall inside borders before the flowering period,
as it is best to do this to enable them to tide over
that time. During dull sunless weather less
atmospheric moisture must be given and the rods
gently tapped to distribute the pollen. Avoid
draughts of any kind, give air sparingly, and in
the case of shy setting kinds such as Muscats,
Alnwick Seedling and some of the large-berried
varieties fertilise at mid-day with a rabbit or
hare's tail or camel's-hair brush. I prefer the
former, using the pollen of the Black Hamburgh,
of which there is always abundance.

Late vineries. — The cleansing of these houses
should now be finished, and the borders, if inside,
given a thorough soaking of rain water, also
any top-dressing required attended to. Use
good turfy loam with a liberal proportion of
Thomson's manure for the Vines. In many cases
top-dressings may be useless through the roots be-
ing so low down. In such cases remove a large
portion of the top inert soil and place the new
richer material directly over the roots. If the
Vines are deficient of roots, they may be much
improved by placing some warm litter over the
surface after the top-dressing when the house is
started. With warmth as advised, new roots will
be formed in the new surface dressing, and these
may be fed during the season. With the borders
in the open it is well to do this work a few weeks
later, as the Vines do not push out new roots
until the buds are breaking freely. If the work
be done just before that time the soil is warmer,
though it is well to encourage new root action by
covering the surface with warm litter for a few
weeks. With regard to starting late Vines much
depends upon the varieties. Start Muscats and
Gros Colman early in March, as by so doing there
will be less need of fire-heat at the finish. The
fruit hangs better and is superior in every way.
With Black Hamburgh there may be a few weeks'
delay.

Pot Vines for next season. — These are secured
from Vines struck last season. Few can grow
their canes sufficiently strong in one year to fruit
very early the next. There is not time to mature
the canes for hard forcing. For this purpose the
young canes should have been cut down at the
end of the year, and now be in a condition to re-
pot if the shoots are 2 inches or 3 inches long. I
usually get my young canes the first season into
8-inch pots, and they are then large enough to
place in their fruiting pots direct, and will have
been started for this purpose in a vinery a few
weeks ago. When repotting remove all loose soil
and drainage, loosening all long roots, and repot
in good turfy loam, a little old mortar rubble or
wood ashes and a sprinkling of bone meal. Have
clean pots and ample drainage. Pot firmly, leav-
ing at least 2 inches of space on the surface for
watering. If the plants are small, pot into 8-inch
pots after shaking out, and when the new roots
are all round the ball, shift into the pots in which
they are to fruit. If bottom-heat can be given so
much the better to start the plants, but let it be
as mild as possible. Water very sparingly, giving
tepid water when required, and as top-growth in-

creases they should be tied up near the light to
encourage a sturdy growth. I omitted to state
that in potting keep the old ball well down so that
the shoot from the base is close to the soil, as this
will induce new roots to form from the base of the
new growth. For fruiting canes a portion of J-inch
bones may be used on the rough drainage. Those
who must grow their own canes will have saved
their best prunings. These should have been pre-
pared a month ago for the production of strong
canes. If not yet done no time should be lost. I
prefer to place the cuttings after potting up in a
frame or cool place for a few weeks, and then
plunge in a steady bottom-heat of 80°. They then
rapidly make roots ; whereas if placed direct in
strong heat before the cut portion is callused over
they make top-growth in advance of the roots, be-
ing weak and rarely making good plants. After
placing in heat moisture must be given very
sparingly at the roots, damping the tops over with
tepid water occasionally.

Cherries under glass. — The Cherry will not
bear hard forcing, and requires much care in the
earlier stages. When fire-heat is applied there
should be no lack of air. Many who only have
one house start their trees at this date, and with
gentle forcing get tine fruit of splendid flavour. As
the Cherry can be grown so well in narrow houses
or cases, it well repays for the space occupied.
If trained to a back wall the trees fruit grandly.
A Cherry house may also be used for so many
purposes after the crop is cleared, that I wonder '
more trees are not grown under glass. The best
Strawberries I ever forced were in Cherry cases,
with a shelf suspended from the roof, this treat-
ment just suiting the plants. The house should
be started at 45° to 50° at night, with an increase
of 10" by day, but in severe weather I would
advise the minimum, as it should be the aim of
the cultivator to force slowly, thus obtaining
strong bloom, otherwise much of the bloom will
fail to set, or will drop as soon as a set is secured.
In the case of Cherries it is not well to allow the
house to get as hot as advised for Vines. With
more warmth give air freely and do not let the
trees suffer for want of moisture, the syringe being
used early in the day and at closing time. It is
best to give the borders a good watering before
the bloom opens, and should there be the least
trace of green-fly, fumigate lightly two or three
nights in succession before the flowers open and
the trees are dry. When in bloom the temperature
may be raised, allowing 5° by night and 10° by
sun heat, and in dull weather it is well to fertilise
the bloom at mid-day or when the pollen is ripe
or dry. Trees in pots in cool or orchard houses
should be placed in the cool end of the house, and
at the start give plenty of air, but they will re-
quire careful watering. The buds drop badly if
there be excess or otherwise. It is best to give
both pot and planted-out trees a thorough soaking
when required. It is when the surface is only
just moistened that buds drop. G. Wythes.

A useful climber. — One of the very best and
most attractive climbers for the conservatory is
Hibbertia dentata. A veiy small plant soon covers
a large space, its glossy leaves and delicate yellow
flowers being very ornamental at this season of
the year. No better subject could be chosen for
covering walls in conservatories or carriage courts,
owing to its evergreen nature. It succeeds well
in a mixture of loam and peat, with sufficient
rough sand to keep it open. Being a vigorous
rooter it requires a good quantity of water during
the summer months, and during winter must be
kept in a fairly moist condition. It requires a
trellis to support it, and the young lateral growths
should be allowed to hang loosely and not be tied
in formally. — J. C.

Rubus australis. — It may be of interest to
Mr. W. J. Bean, who writes concerning the above
plant at p. 100, to know that so far north as
Chester a plant of this Rubus which had remained
exposed for several years survived the severity of
the winter of 1879-80 with no protection of any
kind. It will be remembered that this winter

February 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

135

was unusually severe, the thermometer in some
instances falling nearly to zero. If I remember
rightly, 28° was the maximum registered by the
writer, but the frost was sufficiently prolonged to
kill outright some 2000 plants of hybrid Pentste-
mons in a cold house, not a single plant escaping.
Yet, notwithstanding, a dense impenetrable bush
of this Rubus was only injured at the points and
browned more or less. The plant was in an open
bed in a mixture of peat and vegetable soil. When
planting it in the open it is a good plan to place a
few thin pieces of sandstone about the collar of
the plant. This in times of severity will stand
the plant in good stead, or if planted on the rockery
against the sloping side of a sandstone block its
roots will descend deeply and the Rubus receive
protection therefrom. I have never seen it in
flower. — E. J.

Rose Garden.

WINTER ROSES.
The remarks of " D. T. F." at page 83 are
worthy of consideration by Rose growers, as the
question is introduced whether the British
grower can compete with the growers in the
south of France. " D. T. F." says, " Surely it
is not beyond the ability of the English growers
to flood the markets with home-grown Roses
for Christmas," <fcc. Flooding the markets
with white Roses at Christmas is a large order,
but it would not be beyond the reach of British
talent or British money. The all-important
question is, would it pay ? It would if a good
price could be obtained in the wholesale market
for the Roses, but in the present state of the
trade it would, I fancy, be spending half-a-crown
to earn a shilling. Whether the Roses are
grown in pots or planted out, they require
attention, and must be under the care of gar-
deners who know how to force flowers. Sup-
pose they are grown in pots, as being the most
convenient. They must be prepared for forcing
during the summer, and to do Tea Roses in
pots well, they ought not to be outside at all.
They must rest after flowering, and as the
flowers are cut about Christmas, it would not do
to turn them out of doors, nor yet to thrust
them into any out-of-the-way corner under
glass. They must be exposed to light and air
in a good position in the houses during the
spring months. The plants will make some
good growth and flower again in summer if
allowed to do so. Repotting must be attended
to annually, and not the least part of the cul-
tivator's care is to keep the leaves free from
insects and mildew. In fact, to keep Roses up
to the high standard of excellence whereby good
flowers only can be produced requires as much
labour as is necessary to grow greenhouse or
stove plants. Let us look at the comparative
ease with which Roses are grown in the south
of France and the Genoese Riviera. There is
-scarcely any rainfall from the end of April to the
end of September. The Roses during those months
almost cease to grow and lose their leaves. In
August the gardeners prune their Roses, or in the
first fortnight of September at the latest. They
begiu to bloom late in October, and continue
flowering until the middle of January. The three
principal Tea Roses grown are Safrano, Mme.
Falcot, and Lamarque. They are cut in the
bud state, and open out when placed in water.
The Roses produce immense quantities of bloom ;
whereas Roses in pots forced early would not
produce many. Good sized Rose bushes in
8i-inch pots would not produce on an average
a dozen blooms, if so many ; probably nine
would be nearer the average, and as the flower
girls offer them in November and December in
the streets at a penny apiece, one may have

some idea of the wholesale price. It will never
be worth while to flood the markets with
English grown Rose blooms in winter, either of
Niphetos or any others. Nearly all the English
cultivators of Rose blooms for market know the
value of Niphetos for cutting. It is more
grown than any other Rose, except, perhaps,
Marechal Niel.

The culture of Tea Roses in private gardens
is another thing, and strongly to be commended.
I cut some beautiful Tea Roses this morning,
and hope to continue cutting them until Roses
come in again out-of-doors. I do not try to get
them in before Christmas, as it does not seem
to be worth while to compete with the Chrysan-
themums, but those who want Roses in Novem-
ber and December must imitate to a certain
extent the climate of the Genoese Riviera. Let
the Roses rest by being kept comparatively dry at
the roots during summer. Prune them about the
end of August to the end of September, and
start them growing in an ordinary greenhouse.
They require no artificial heat until the end of
October, and a temperature of 55° as a minimum
will be sufficient for them during the months of
November and December. This is easily kept
up with a dryish atmosphere, as zonal Pelar-
goniums, Carnations, Bouvardias, and Cyclamens
will thrive well under the same treatment. It is
easy to see what a beautiful show of bloom may
be kept up during those dull and dreary months
of the year. J. Douglas.

NEW ROSES OF 1803-1894.

There were a fair number of new Roses sent out
in the above years, and if not so numerous as in
the past — for which I believe all of us have little
regret — a few really good ones may well be men-
tioned before the planting season is over. With
the prospect of many gaps in our Rose borders
and the fact that most of these new kinds can be
obtained in pots better than from the nursery
rows in the ordinary way, I thought a description
of them might be useful.

Clio was sent out by Messrs. W. Paul and Son
last year. I have seen this Rose in superb form
at the Temple showsof the R.H.S. A beautifully
delicate flesh colour, with a shade of rosy-pink in
the centre, excellent shape, full, and with some
of the handsomest foliage we have, it is, perhaps,
one of the most distinct Roses recently intro-
duced, and for pot work cannot be surpassed in its
colour.

Clara Watson comes from Oxford and has been
well shown again during the past summer — a
Hybrid Tea of promise, more especially for cutting
from in the garden. It is a beautifully tinted
salmon and pink, being much brighter and fresher
in the centre, very free blooming and vigorous,
but is rather more subject to mildew than the
majority of Roses.

Captain Hayward is another good Rose for
garden decoration, and is sometimes double
enough for the exhibition stand. The petals are
very long, and as a bud its deep carmine-crimson
is most taking.

Corinna is an almost indescribable colour —
rose, bronze and a coppery flesh combined. The
flowers are large and freely produced, while we
can wish for no better grower than this production
from Waltham Cross.

Crimson Rambler need not be described, and
yet there may perchance be one or two who have
not purchased it. For a pillar, a wall (inside or
out), in fact for any position where the Rose can
be grown, this charming new Polyantha cannot
be misplaced. Its tremendous growth rivals, if it
does not surpass, that of Reve d'Or. Its huge
trusses of carmine blossoms are simply superb.

Charles Gater is a very deep crimson, of
immense size and substance, about midway
between a clear crimson and maroon, each of
these two shades being distinguishable in different
lights.

Comtesse de Galard-Bearn was sent out by
Bernaix last season and is one of the Mme. Carnot
and W. A. Richardson class, but larger and fuller,
and of a bright canary-yellow shade.

Alister Stella Gray — originated in that
famous Rose garden at Bath — is a tremendous
grower, particularly free-blooming, and reminds
one of a cross between Perle d'Or and W. A.
Richardson. The trusses of small blossoms are
delightfully distinct, and so freely borne that one
can truly cut and come again.

Beaute Inconstante is well named. Carmine,
yellow and coppery fawn are all present in some
flowers. We may see any two of these, or occasion-
ally only one. It is not a very strong grower, but
well worth growing if only for its delightful buds.

Bridesmaid, another sport from Catherine
Mermet, is identical with that except in colour,
which is much deeper and may be described as a
clearer as well as a brighter pink. It is an im-
proved C. Mermet in colour with every other good
quality of this grand Rose.

Belle Sieerecht many of us saw when so well
shown by its raisers. It won the gold medal of its
year, and from the ground plants shown me one
can judge of its growth. I was much taken with
it upon more than one occasion while exhibited
under the name of Mrs. W. J. Grant, but the en-
tire stock passed into American hands, and they
have failed to send it out at the date advertised.
We may look for it this spring. It is a hybrid
Tea of bright rosy-pink shade, a free bloomer and
sweetly scented.

Celestin Port is one of the most peculiar
shaded H.P.'s we have, as the centre is distinctly
tinged with that coppery red found in many Teas.
Vermilion and shaded crimson of a velvety hue
are the remaining colours. It is large and of good
shape.

Duke of York, a China Rose from Messrs. W.
Paul and Son, is most variable in colour, some-
times tipped with rosy pink on a white ground,
and at others rosy pink only, while I have seen
these two shades in many combinations. Good
for the garden or post.

<;raziella we already had twice among Roses,
but this novelty of 1894 is a very promising Rose
and quite distinct. A creamy white with tints of
clear llesh, a good grower, and one I quite expect
to become very popular.

Germaine Trochox is another of those delight-
ful Hybrid Teas from Pernet-Ducher. The edges
are rose, ground colour salmony flesh, and centre
clear nankeen-yellow.

Lorn a Doone, one of the small class of Bour-
bons, is a decided addition in every way. A deep
magenta with carmine and scarlet shadings. Full,
large, a good grower and free bloomer.

Mme. Joseph Combet, a free growing Hybrid
Tea, is full of promise. A delicate creamy white
shaded with rose, and the bloom rather larger than
the majority of this new class.

Mme. E. Helkenhein is described by Guillot
as chamois yellow, with shades and veins of car-
mine-rose and apricot ; a vigorous grower and
most distinct.

Maman Cochet, a peculiar shade of carmine
mixed with yellow and salmon, is really a superb
addition to our climbers.

Marchioness ok Downshire won the gold
medal last year. It is the most distinct and
beautifulsatin pink witli a soft roseshading we have.
Very large petals, a full flower of great size and
good form. As seen at the Crystal Palace, where
it won first prize for twelve of any new Rose, it
was grand.

Marchioness of Londonderry is a clear ivory
white that also won a gold medal, which it well
deserved. The substance of the petals is most
remarkable, and it flowers well both on cut-backs
and maidens.

Mrs. Sharman Crawford gives us quite a new
shade of rosy pink and with a distinct shade of
white at the base of each petal. It is large and
of perfectly imbricated form, while its flowering
and growth are excellent.

Mrs. Harkness and Paul's Early Blush are
now decided to be synonymous, a fact I was con-

136

THE GARDEN.

[February 23, 1895.

vinced of from their first purchase. A pale blush
sport of that delightfully sweet-scented and early
blooming Rose Heinrich Schultheis.

Mrs. W. C. Whitney we do not know much of,
but it comes from America with a wonderful re-
putation as an extra free bloomer, long clear pink
(lowers, and sweetly perfumed.

Pierre Mercadier is only a moderate grower,
but it produces exceedingly large creamy yellow
and copper shaded blooms.

Princess May grows well, and is one of the
most distinct Roses of the Gloire de Dijon class,
but not so lengthy in habit. A pretty opaque
pink flower of good shape.

If I had to choose half a dozen from these they
would be Beaute Inconstante, Graziella, Crimson
Rambler, Clio, Clara Watson, and Alister Stella
Gray as being the most distinct, but Marchioness
of Downshire and Mrs. S. Crawford are both ex-
cellent. Ridgewood.

NOTES ON ROSES.

Doubtless the pages of The Garden will soon
be a guide as to the damage done among Roses
by the severe frost of January and the pre-
sent month. How many of us can look at
our Roses now without despondency wheu
we not only experience frosts of 20° to 25°,
but also have most searching and frost-laden
winds. In 1893 we had 20° early in Feb-
ruary and 15° about the middle of the month.
Not only was this considerably less than
that prevailing while 1 write, but we were
also without a keen wind. Those who make
a practice of protecting no doubt feel safer
than others who do not take this trouble.
After all I think the results in spring from
over-protection are almost as bad, but I am
quite willing to admit that I should prefer
my own protected from the terribly keen
wind and frost now prevailing. Even the
base of our plants and the dormant buds on
dwarfs are more fully exposed than usual
during an extra sharp frost, because in this
locality we have scarcely any snow, not more
than an inch. I fear that those who object
to spring planting will find themselves forced
to it this season if only to fill up blanks in
those beds that were autumn planted. New
beds can be made as soon as the frost is well
out of the ground, but I shall be in no great
hurry with our own, preferring to wait until
the ground gets a little warmer. Plants in
pots, such as grafted Teas and others that
were not potted on or did not grow suffi-
ciently strong to occupy G-inch and 8-inch
pots for this season's forcing, will be capital
for filling in blanks. We usually store these
in a wooden frame or pit, or stand them in a
sheltered corner and then cover up, the ob-
ject being to protect the wood both for late
grafting and also so that the plants may come
on well when potted up and started for making
extra sized specimens in the comiDg year. This
season, however, the bulk of these will be
retained for filling the gaps it is quite certain
we shall soon discover. Indeed, I see that
several plants of Comtesse de Nadaillac are killed
down to the ground line, and more mischief
may be exposed later on.

At this date I have more than once given a
few notes on pruning, but this season it seems
likely we shall need to prune all kinds alike by
simply cutting away the dead wood. A friend
of mine whose rosery is in a low and rather
damp spot has often jocularly remarked that
King Frost does all of his pruning. The other
day he feared this exceptional weather had
overdone it, and this more especially among
the climbers acd extra vigorous sorts of all

classes. Here is the very case where little
pruning at this season is necessary, and the
results are likely to be severely felt when our
summer Roses should be in full bloom. Climbers
and strong growers are so dependent upon such
wood for their chief display, that we cannot look
forward with any degree of confidence.

I had intended to note a few of the worst
and a few of the least affected sorts in my
collection, but, the frost showing no signs of
abating, I will leave it awhile and look them over
again. Nor can we possibly form an idea of
much value until the frost is well gone and our
plants once more try to make growth. We who
leave them totally unprotected may have to
moderate our ideas of the hardiness of Roses,
but one consoling point in favour of our theory
is that many, I fear very many, other recognised
hardy plants will also succumb. R.

the stems split without the aid c f the knife, but
they will not do so if they are cut off quite close
to the base.

LENTEN ROSES AS CUT FLOWERS.

The accompanying illustration shows the beauty
of the Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis) when

Orchids.

PHAIUS.

These are very useful Orchids, many of them
thriving in structures devoted to the culture of
ordinary stove plants quite as well as in the
Orchid house. They are mostly of an orna-
mental habit, and if in good condition bear fine
foliage and large handsome racemes of flower.
While growing freely they require for the most
part an abundance of heat and moisture, the
roots also being kept well supplied. After the
pseudo-bulbs are fully matured, the plants
must be kept nearly dry in a cooler house until
they show signs of breaking into growth, when
they should be repotted and again introduced
to the stove temperature. They must be grown
in fairly large pots in a much more substantial

Flowers of Helleborus orientalis in a vase. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by

Mr. Q. Ingram, Ascot.

arranged in a vase. There is great charm in
these lovely spotted late-blooming Hellebores,
the colours ranging from greenish white to deep
purple rose with rich spottings of darker shades.
It may not be generally known that Lenten as
well as Christmas Roses will remain fresh in
water for a considerable time longer than they
otherwise would if the stems be slightly slit at
the base for an inch or so upwards. We once
thrust bits of pointed stick into the stems of
some to add to their height, and were surprised to
find that while tlr se not so treated withered
after a few days in the water, the others kept
quite fresh, although all were in the same bowl,
and on examining them we found that the stems
had burst. This led us to think that the
splitting of the stems allowed them to absorb
an extra amount of water. On making further
experiments we found that this held good not
only with these plants, but also with many other
fleshy-stemmed flowers. It often happens that

compost than most Orchids require. Sound
fibry loam enriched with a little dried cow
manure or some other fertiliser, chopped Sphag-
num, a little leaf-mould, and nodules of char-
coal or potsherds will be suitable for the
strongest growers, as P. grandifolius, while for
P. tuberculosus the loam and manure must be
left out and peat fibre substituted. The leaves
of Phaius are very subject to insect attacks,
1 thrips, red spider, and scale all being ex-
tremely troublesome if not kept well in check.
Green -fly, too, is an inveterate enemy, appear-
ing Yearly upon the spikes when forming, and
if not removed soon spoiling them. If the
plants are arranged so as the syringe can be
freely used around them and over the foliage,
this is comparatively easy, but otherwise there
must be very frequent syringings and even
fumigations in order to keep the plants clean.
Propagation is easily effected by division of the
pseudo bulbs at pottiDg time, P. grandifolius

February 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

137

being especially amenable to this treatment,
throwing up a number of young shoots, any or
all of which will if carefully treated make
young plants.

P. bicolor is a native of Ceylon, whence it
was introduced in 1837. It is a large-growing
species, with narrowish leaves 18 inches in
length and large roundish pseudo-bulbs. From
the bases of these the flower-spikes spring, and
often attain a height of 3 feet. The blossoms are
produced successively along the spikes, so that
they last a long while in beauty. These art- about
4 inches across, varying in colour, but usually
some shade of reddish brown. The lip is yel-
lowish in front with a rosy margin, the enfolding
lobes being bright rose.

P. Blumei is a fine handsome species, with
broadly lanceolate leaves and short, roundish
pseudo-bulbs occurring upon the creeping rhi-
zome. The spikes rise to a height of about 3
feet, and bear upon the upper portion many flowers,
individually about 3J- inches across. The sepals
and petals are brownish or green and the lip
yellow, with a large crimson spot under the
column. This kind flowers in spring and has
several varieties, including Bernaysi, which is
lighter in colour than the type, and occasionally
classed as a separate species. This comes from
Australia, the type being a native of Java. Other
varieties are assamica and Sanderiana, both
natives of Assam. The well-known

P. grandifolius is one of the oldest Orchids in
cultivation, having been introduced 100 years ago.
It is said to be a common plant in the East Indian
and Australasian islands, and also the mainland
of China. The flower-spikes are produced from
the base of the large leafy pseudo-bulbs, and
attain a height of about 3 feet, producing many
flowers. These are silvery white outside, chocolate-
brown inside the sepals. The lip is white, with a
yellow throat, shaded and veined with crimson.
It is easily grown, seldom out of health, and
flowers from midwinter onwards to the end of
April.

P. Humbloti is a rare and beautiful species, at
present only represented in good collections. The
sepals are narrower than the petals, pale rose, the
lip deep rose, becoming nearly white under the
column, where there are also two ridges or crests
of yellow. This plant requires a strong heat,
being found naturally in Madagascar.

P. MAcniATUS is one of the very few Orchids
which have finely variegated foliage, as well as
attractive flowers, and which should be grown by
everyone. The deep green lanceolate leaves are
4 inches across, thickly spotted with yellow. The
flower-spikes grow about 2 feet high, and carry
about a dozen flowers, each 2 inches across. These
are yellow, with a reddish brown margin to the
middle lobe of the lip. This species varies some-
what in colour, the brightest forms being very
attractive. A native of Northern India.

P. tuberctloscs is (juite a distinct species from
all the others, and a remarkably beautiful Orchid,
which, unfortunately, is not always so happy
, undir cultivation as could bo wished. The sepals
and petals are pure white, but the lip is the most
attractive part of the flower ; the upper lobes are
canary-yellow, with a number of crimson spots,
the front lobe roundish, crimped at the edge,
white, spotted with purple and orange-yellow.
This species must be planted in well-drained pots
and watered freely while growing in the East
India house. It must be shaded from bright
sunshine and kept free from insects, or good
results must not be looked for.

P. Wallichi is similar in habit to P. grandi-
folius, and flowers at the same season. Like it,
the flowers are white externally, yellow flushed
with purple inside ; the lip is pointed, yellow,
"with purple about the throat. The flower-spikes
last a long while in perfection, and as they grow
upwards of a yard in height, it makes a noble-
looking plant. This species was introduced from
India in 1837.

Besides the foregoing, this genus now contains
several choice and rare hybrids, as P, amabilis,

raised by the Messrs. Veitch, P. Cooksoni,
named in compliment to the raiser, P. hybridus,
and the newer and beautiful P. Owcnianus,
exhibited by Messrs. Sander at the Temple
show in 1894. H. R.

Cypripedium barbatum "Warnerianum.—

This species is no doubt one of the moat popular kiuds
we have, having gained much popularity since the
time of its introduction — over fifty years ago. The
variety here referred to is unquestionably the mo*t
highly coloured of all and appears to flower earlier in
the eeason than the typical form. I have recently
seen several fine examples in bloom, the dorsal sepal
in some instances being very highly coloured. — W. H. G.
Angraecum fragrans. — This is a plant that is
rarely seen in our collections, although an old in-
troduction. The flowers are borne singly, and
each measure about 2 inches in diameter, are pure
white, and, as the name implies, are very sweet
scented. This also applies to the foliage, and it
is stated that the leaves are largely used for im-
parting a delicious flavour and sweet aroma to
ordinary tea when mixed with it ; and, in fact, in
Mauritius, its native country, a very agreeable
preparation is said to be made entirely from the
leaves of this plant. Being one of the few Orchids
of commercial use, and not appearing to be very
widely distributed over the globe, may probably
account for its scarcity under cultivation. — G.

Cypripedium MorganisB.— This hybrid, al-
though not new, is still one of the finest in the
genus. It is remarkable for its perpetual bloom-
ing, especially in Messrs. Williams' nursery at
Upper Holloway, where there is a good batch
of this kind. It is just about fifteen years ago
since it first made its appearance, having been
raised by Mr. Seden in Messrs. Veitch's nur-
sery at Chelsea between C. Stonei and C. super-
biens. This plant, although perfectly distinct,
somewhat resembles the very rare C. Stonei
platytamium, having fine large, spotted, and
drooping petals, and the dorsal sepal also re-
sembles that of C. Stonei. During the past year
there have appeared one or two very beautiful
and distinct crosses, with flowers partaking of
the same form, but I do not think they are better
than this tine kind. — \V. H. G.

Cattleya Percivaliana.— Several fine forms
of this delightful plant are to hand from "J. M.,"
of Manchester, who states that he has had this
species in flower in large numbers for the past
three months. It is in most instances a very
highly-coloured Cattleya, and one that is exceed-
ingly useful for filling an interval between the
flowering of C. labiata and C. Trianas but not
grown so largely as many other kinds. During the
last few years, however, it appears to have gained
more favour, in spite of the bad reputation it re-
ceived soon after its first introduction into this
country. The flower labelled No. 1 is of fine form
and very deep in colour, the bright crimson mark-
ings on the large lip being very rich. Nos. 2, 3,
and 4 are also very fine, having lighter sepals and
petals and the lip is very heavily frilled. No. 7 is
sent under the name of C. Percivaliana aurea, and
although contrasting greatly with the above, is
by no means so showy, the lip being almost
entirely orange-yellow and lighter towards the
front. The remaining flowers represent good
typical forms. — W. H. G.

Odontoglossum nevadense. — 0. nevadense
is a very beautiful species which resembles very
much in habit and general appearance the more
popular O. crispum, with which it should be
grown. Compared with many other lovely kinds,
the number of plants in cultivation is remarkably
few, and from this one is apt to infer that this
plant must be somewhat scarce in its native
home. It is stated that the first consignment
consisted only of about four plants, and the first
of these to flower was in the celebrated collection
of Mr. S. Mendel, of Manchester. No doubt if it
was introduced in larger numbers it would speedily
become one of our most popular kinds, for the col-
ours of the flowers are very striking, the pure white
of the lip forming a pleasing contrast to the dark-

coloured sepals and petals. This plant was
originally introduced into European gardens about
1868, when it was sent from Venezuela to M.
Linden, then at Ghent, by the well-known collec-
tor Gustav Wallis, and remained a very rare
plant for a considerable time. Since then, how-
ever, it has been introduced in quantities from
time to time by various firms, and even in these
plants considerable variation of colour is exhibited.
It produces a slander nodding scape measuring
more than a foot in length, and which will some-
times carry upwards of a dozen fine flowers, indi-
vidually about 3 inches in diameter. The sepals
and petals are similar, spreading, plain, and nearly
equal, the latter being rather narrower than the
former. These are of a deep cinnamon -brown
shade with a narrow border of yellow, and usually
with a few longitudinal lines at the base and also
one or two transverse bars of the same colour.
The lip, however, is finely fringed and terminates
in a sharp point, pure white, occasionally pale
yellow, and having a few brown spots at the base.
It is a very desirable species, well deserving a
place in every collection. — W. H. G.

DENDROBIUM McCARTHI<E.

One of the most beautiful species in this fine
genus is D. McCarthiie, and although some-
what more difficult to manage successfully than
many other kinds, it certainly well repays for
any little extra attention that may be bestowed
upon it. Under cultivation this fine Dendrobe
appears to bloom at various seasons of the year,
although in its natural home the flowers are
produced during the month of May, from which
it derives its native name of "Mayflower."
Coming from the hot climate of the Ceylon
forests, it must consequently be placed in strong
heat in our houses and suspended close to the
glass, so that all the light possible may be ob-
tained, especially during the dull winter
months. As the bulbs become matured the
plants should be given a slight rest, but I be-
lieve it is a mistake to keep these too dry at
this period, for being a plant of very slender
habit, it is almost sure to suffer if not slightly
nourished. In many instances this is no doubt
the cause of failure with the culture of this
species. I have seen the best results produced
by placing the plants in very small baskets or
upon blocks of wood, with a very little material
around the roots when grown in the former ;
this should be made very firm, and composed of
good fibrous peat and chopped Sphagnum Moss,
a little silver sand mixed in being an advantage.
Like all other Orchids, it requires thorough
drainage, for it enjoys plenty of water during
the summer months, and this must not be
allowed to remain around the roots, for when
once the plant gets into a bad condition it very
seldom recovers, or will take a considerable
time to restore to health. Place it in fully ex-
posed situations where it can enjoy plenty of
sunshine, and shade only in the middle of the
day when the sun is exceedingly hot. D. Mc-
Carthise was first discovered about forty years
ago, when it was sent to the Royal Gardens,
Kew, from Ceylon forests. It is found grow-
ing upon the trunks of trees, but even in a
natural state it appears to be a short-lived
plant, and it is reported to have become already
exceedingly rare. It is a slender growing
deciduous species with semi-pendulous pseudo-
bulbs, which do not attain more than 18 inches
to 20 inches in length. These are very distinct,
being green, spotted with red, and somewhat
swollen at the base. The flowers are produced
in short pendulous racemes of about two and
three together, and individually measure over
3 inches across. The sepals and petals are of a
delicate shade of rosy pink, the lip being of the
same colour at the upper portion, with a broad

138

THE GARDEN

[February 23, 1895.

zone of white between that and a blotch of deep
purple at the base. These will continue in full
perfection for several weeks, and are very
attractive and distinct.

Wm. Hugh Gowek.

Cypripedium albo-purpureum supeibum.
— A bloom under this name comes from "N. J."
It is certainly a very nice form of the typical
plant. This is a hybrid of Veitchian origin
between C. Schlimi and C. Dominii, and first
flowered about the year 1877. The variety super-
bum is not a novelty, I having noticed one several
years ago even larger and finer coloured than the
bloom to hand. Although the flowers do not each
last long in perfection, they are produced in quan-
tity, and as soon as one is past another opens,
until the long spike is quite exhausted. — YV. H. G.

Cool Orchids (Hallman, Kensington). — My
correspondent inquires for a list of some half
dozen kinds of Orchids for a cool house, but as he
does not mention the amount of heat usually main-
tained it is difficult to advise him, for "cool
house " is indeed a very vague term. The follow-
ing, however, are all very beautiful and desirable
plants which succeed well under cool treatment,
and for descriptions of which I must refer him to
recent numbers of The Garden, where they will
be found to be fully described and their' indi-
vidual requirements stated. A good selection
may be made from the undermentioned : Lycaste
Skinneri, very useful for lasting a considerable
time in perfection ; Odontoglossum crispum, one
of the finest for cutting ; O. Rossi, very pretty
and free-blooming ; Oncidium tigrinum, very
bright and effective ; Cypripedium insigne, one of
the best of the Lady's Slippers ; Masdevallias in
many varieties, Disa grandiflora, a brilliant kind,
requiring quite cool treatment, and many others,
which, if a small amount of heat can be com-
manded, will keep the house bright for many
months.— W. H. G.

Trichopilia suavis.— I am in receipt of a few
blooms of this old favourite from " W. M.,"
Norwich, and amongst them is the chaste variety
named alba. This latter, however, is a poor
flower compared to the typical form, but this is
probably due to the state of the plant. 1 would
advise my correspondent to take great care of this
piece, for when it becomes stronger and better
established the flowers should be equally as large
as the others, which are very nicely spotted with
light rose. This useful and free-flowering plant is
of easy culture, and when in bloom gives out a
very delightful fragrance, perfuming the whole
house. It is a native of Costa Rica, and grows at
considerable elevation upon the mountains. Un-
der cultivation it should be grown in quite a cool
temperature and kept almost dry whilst at rest.
When repotting, care must be taken to raise the
plants well up upon a cone-like mound, for the
flower-spikes proceed from the base of the bulbs
and hang over the sides of the pots or pans. If
not able to have a free course, they will quickly
commence to decay as soon as they appear should
the water remain around them. — W. H. G.

Saccolabium bellinum. — This is a useful and
pretty little species, and being of a dwarf habit
and very free in producing its blooms finds especial
favour with Orchid growers. It was introduced
by Messrs. Low and Co. through their collector,
Mr. Boxall, from Burmah, and its handsome
flowers at once attracted attention. The plant
does not attain more than a few inches in height,
and the thick bilobed leaves generally measure 9
inches or 10 inches long ; therefore it is a very
suitable plant for establishments where space is
limited. The flowers, although small, are pro-
duced in a crowded raceme and are borne on
short pendent stems. The incurved sepals and
petals are very similar, light yellow blotched with
deep purple ; the lip is white and with a few small
spots of red. This little species is one of the most
beautiful in the genus, and no doubt the best
known of all the kinds belonging to this dwarf
eection. To grow this plant, strong heat and

plenty of moisture in the atmosphere are needed,
as its native habitat is one of the hottest in the
world.— W. H. G.

Kitchen Garden.

PICKLING CABBAGES.

These are not grown in some gardens, as so few
are required. The crop is often overlooked
entirely, but in a garden of any size it is well to
grow every kind of vegetable likely to be useful.
There are only about half-a-dozen kinds, the
one illustrated, namely, Blood Red, being one
of the best, both as regards size, colour and
quality. Some kinds have far too much thick
stalk, but the one named above partakes of the
character of the Drumhead or flat-headed type.
It is also known under the name of Large Blood
Red, and is grown in large quantities for the
market. On the Continent the Red Cabbage is
used in a variety of ways, but in this country
its value is for pickling. The old Red Dutch is
the variety grown in private gardens. It was
largely planted in market gardens twenty years

should there be a failure of other kinds which
require a longer time to mature.

I will conclude my selection of varieties with
a very dark kind named Late Black or Super-
fine Black, but I do not recommend it in pre-
ference to those named above. Though darker
in colour when pickled, it loses its colour
quickly and is somewhat inferior in quality.
There are other kinds, such as the new Garfield
Pickler, an early red kind with a conical growth
much resembling the well-known Cocoa-nut
Cabbage. This when pickled is of a bright red
colour and of excellent quality. It should be
selected where quality is considered, and with
pickling varieties colour is an important point.

As regards culture, so much depends upon the
quality. If large heads are required, it is well
to sow seed either the last week in July or the
first week in August, but much depends upon
the soil and locality. The ground should be
well prepared for the seed bed, but as only a
small quantity is often required, a space may
often be given by the side of the other autumn
or green varieties. Sow thinly to get sturdy
plants. When the seedlings have attained a
good size, plant out the end of September in
rows at least 2 feet apart and 18 inches between

Callage Blood Red Pickling.

From a photograph sent by Mr. Norman Blake,
Bedford.

ago, but I prefer the one illustrated, as less of
it is wasted when cut up for pickling.

The next large variety is Large Drumhead,
which is a splendid market Cabbage for size
and weight, but in quality is not equal to the
kinds named, as in wet seasons on some soils it
splits so quickly that it is unsaleable. It also
gets of a greenish hue or bronzy green if grown
in unsuitable soil. Sutton's Dwarf Red is quite
distinct from the varieties named above, and is
doubtless a choice selection, one of its parents
being the one illustrated. It is a dwarfer
grower, very solid, and one of the best for a
private garden, owing to its delicate flavour.
It is the earliest pickling Cabbage I have grown,
which is a great gain where ground is scarce.
I have obtained very fine heads from seed sown
early in March, but, of course, if size be re-
quired it is best to sow seed in the autumn.
The old Utrecht Red, a small, but very fine
dark red variety, is much grown on the Conti-
nent. It is recommended for its good quality and
value for spring sowing. Sow the seed in
March, and pickling may be done late in July,
so that it possesses great value as a catch crop

the plants. Cabbages of any kind are gross
feeders, liking a rich, well-manured soil, as
quick growth in the spring and summer are im-
portant. Plant, too, on land that has not borne
a similar crop for some time, the ground being
double dug or trenched and manured. Firm
planting is essential to promote a dwarf stem,
and in dry weather give ample supplies of mois-
ture. Those who do not require size may sow
seed in March, and they will get small compact
heads. Much time, however, may be saved by
sowing a pinch of seed in heat in a house or
frame and pricking off when large enough into
cold frames. Plant out in the middle of April,
and this sowing will be weeks in advance of
those sown in the open. For spring sowing
select a form of the Dwarf Red or Utrecht type,
as they come more quickly. To obtain size in
either spring or autumn sown plants, the latter
during the summer well repay for supplies of
liquid manure or guano. G. Wythes.

New Onions. — With the time for sowing close
at hand the remarks of several correspondents as
to the keeping properties of the various varieties

Ffbruaby 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

i::o

of Onions are exceedingly well timed. I had a
couple of new varieties on trial last year, growing
them under ordinary conditions with the old
favourites that have served me well for several
years — a good type of White Spanish, Giant Zittau,
and Brown Globe. Taking them on the average,
the novelties were in no way superior either in
size or weight of bulb, and their keeping properties
may be judged from the fact that it was found
necessary to use them before White Spanish was
touched. The few that remained had bolted some
time before Christmas. As we know that most sorts
can be grown to an exceptional size in rich ground
and by the liberal use of stimulants, it would be
interesting to know if bad keeping is the result of
seed-saving from these giants, and if so, wherein
lies the advantage of the system of such feeding.
For the sake of having two and three-pound bulbs
for the show table it is advisable to perpetuate a
race that are past their best by the end of the
year. In the matter of sowing indoors and trans-
planting instead of open-air sowing, which is recom-
mtnded for the general crop as well as for the pro-
duction of sensational bulbs, has it been proved
that this treatment is instrumental in warding off
the attack of the fly through the more advanced
state of the grass? That the attack of the Onion
fly is more a question of locality than of the
absence of cultural skill is apparent from the fact
that in two gardens almost side by side, where
the treatment is identical, the one Onion bed
shall be healthy and vigorous, the other almost a
total failure.— E. B. C.

Dwarf French Bean Mohawk. — This is in-
valuable for raising in pots and planting out on a
warm border sheltered with hand-glasses or
frames. I prefer this to many of the others on
account of its earliness. A few seasons ago I
tiied some half-dozen early kinds to test their
early cropping character, and Mohawk, or Six
Weeks, as it is often named, was six to ten days
before any other variety. This variety is above
the usual size, and the beans are speckled with
purple, very fleshy, and the growth compact,
whilst theirquality is first-rate. For first sowing in
the open I do not know of any better variety if
size, earliness, and freedom of cropping be con-
sidered. There is often only a scanty supply of
vegetables towards the end of May, especially of
choice kinds, so that if a good supply of Beans
can be obtained by sowing in 4J-inch pots early
in March and planting out under hand-glasses
when ready, there will be nice dishes at that date
and early in June. If cold frames can be spared
there is even less trouble in their culture, but I
have obtained heavy crops by raising the plants
in heat, transferring when above the soil to
frames, and planting on a sloping border in front
of warm fruit houses protected with spare frame
lights, hand-glasses, and mats. — G. Wythes.

Veitch's Improved Long-pod Bean. — Of

late years there has been great improvement in
this class of Beans. We have secured greater
length of pod without that thick shell or woolly
matter. The best cropping variety I grew last
year was Veitch's Improved Long-pod Bean. It
bears freely in light soils, and is equally as hardy
as any of the smaller kinds, and in my opinion as
regards quality better than man}-. I do not know
of any kind more prolific or more vigorous, and
each pod contains five or six beans, which are of a
delicious flavour when cooked. The great draw-
back with many of the large-podded varieties is
their lateness, but this is quite as early as any of
the small so-called early forms, and being a
greater cropper is a desirable variety. From its
appearance 1 should say it is a large early green
Long-pod selection, and those who only grow one
or two varieties will find this useful in every wav.
-G. W. '

Notes on Cauliflowers. — W7ith the thermo-
meter down to zero several nights in succession
great havoc has been wrought amongst the Broc-
coli, and it is certain that a large quantity are
completely killed, and probably many more will
succumb later on. Cauliflowers in cold frames,
although protected by mats, &c, look in a miser-

able condition, and I think will be of little service ;
consequently, special efforts will have to be made
to meet the demand for this vegetable by raising
plants in heat and doing all that we can to secure
an early supply. The selection of varieties is of
some considerable importance, as by sowing extra
early sorts and giving them every attention good
and fair-sized Cauliflowers can be cut in twelve
weeks from time of sowing. So far I have found
no variety equal to Carter's Defiance Extra Early
Forcing for sowing under glass ; the plants are
strong, dwarf and well-shaped, of nice size, just
the thing for a gentleman's table, and is altogether
a variety that I can confidently recommend for
very early work. Sutton's First Crop is another
most excellent early or mid- season variety, rather
larger than the last named, but not so early.
Sown at the same time and given exactly the same
treatment, it was eight days later in coming into
use ; however, it forms a grand successor to that
variety, and is a good summer Cauliflower as well.
For keeping up the supply until Autumn Giant
is fit to cut I always rely on a good strain of
Early London, and which has never disappointed
me in hot or cold seasons, always producing
medium-sized heads of excellent quality. At
various times I have tried late Cauliflowers against
Veitch's Autumn Giant, but have yet to find a
variety that will equal that sterling sort through
good and bad seasons alike. Beyond cpnestion it
has proved a great boon to the whole gardening
community, and it is doubtful if it will ever be
equalled, much less surpassed, in itR season. —
W. G. C.

Ne Plus Ultra Cucumber. -This Cucumber
is well known in some parts of Gloucestershire,
Worcestershire and Herefordshire, and, I believe,
originated amongst the Cheltenham market
growers. The fruits are about 14 inches long, of
a green colour, and more freely produced than
in any variety I have ever seen. Under the high
pressure system of giving no ventilation and
affording ample atmospheric moisture, with liberal
root feeding, it will continue bearing in a remark-
able manner for months. For either home con-
sumption or market this variety is well worth a
trial, and I believe that once grown its cultiva-
tion will be extended. I should also add that it
is not only of value as a summer variety, but also
for winter work, as excellent crops are produced
during the most trying months of the year in a
temperature ranging on the average about 60°.
Probably some of the well-known Worcester or
Gloucester seedsmen would be able to supply the
seed.— W. G. C.

EARLY BROAD BEANS.

Most vegetables will be later than usual if means
are not taken to forward the crop, as it will be
some little time before the soil is in condition to
receive seeds of any kind, being cold and wet
after the frost disappears. To get a few early
Beans is a simple matter ; few vegetables plant
out better if some soil is attached to each lot of
plants. Those who haveno room for pots may sow
thinly in shallow boxes in rich soil, placing the
boxes on warm pipes or flues till the seeds have
germinated. When the tops are a couple of
inches above the soil, remove the plants to a
lighter, cooler place till ready to plant. Cold
frames answer well after the plants attain a few
inches of growth, as in such they are near the light
and well hardened by removal of the lights in fine
weather. The other method of raising plants by
sowing four to six Beans in a 4J-ineh pot is
equally good, and there is less fear of the balls
being broken at p'anting time. I do not like,
however, the plants to get too much pot-bound,
as they do not grow away so readily when
planted. If a mass of roots, the lower portion of
the ball should be opened out for the roots to lay
hold of the soil, otherwise they suffer from
drought and are a prey to black-fly. There are
other means of raising a crop, but those named
are best where time is a consideration. In plant
ing out the Beans raised as advised it is well to

draw deep drills, and as each lot of plants is
placed in the ground to put some rich soil, such as
from Cucumber or Melon beds, around the roots.
Make this firm, and draw some soil to the side of
the rows. I have also sheltered with branches of
Fir or Yew for a time, and with care the plants
will give a supply weeks in advance of those sown
in the open, and being very dwarf maybe planted
at 2 feet to 3 feet apart in the rows. As regards
variety, it was always considered best to plant
Early Mazagan for early use, but it is not the
earliest and the beans are very small. The Early
Long-pod is better in every way. The chief
points to be observed in growing Broad Beans
for a time under glass is to harden the plants well
and not crowd at starting. Plant with a ball,
and give water in dry weather.

G. Wythes.

Trees and Shrubs.

FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS.*
Within the limits of half an hour it is manifestly
impossible to do more than call attention to some
of the less known trees and shrubs which can be
grown in the open air in this country. A mere
list of names could be drawn up which would
occupy most of the time at my disposal, but such
a list— though perhaps useful for purposes of
reference— would be very tiresome to read, and
much more tedious to listen to. I shall therefore
confine myself for the most part to ornamental
trees and shrubs which, in my opinion, are well
worthy of much more extended cultivation than
they now enjoy. Unless specially singled out for
comment in the way of hardiness, it may be taken
for granted that the plants are hardy in the
neighbourhood of London and in the south of
England generally. In all probability a large
proportion would prove hardy much farther north,
but I have not sufficient data to enable me to
speak with certainty as to the behaviour of many
of them except at Kew and in the neighbourhood
of London. The mere omission, therefore, of
numbers of very beautiful trees and shrubs must
not be taken to mean that the ones mentioned in
this paper are superior in any way to those not
mentioned. More than half an hour could be
profitably employed in a review of garden Rose3
—not Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, and so on, but
simply of the wild species, botanical varieties, and
little-known hybrids.

After these remarks I proceed with the paper,
merely stating that I take the natural orders in
botanical sequence for the sake of convenience.

The Magnolia family contains a number of the
most beautiful flowering trees and shrubs in exist-
ence. Fortunately most of these are pretty well
known, but the following Japanese species are
recent arrivals in this country, and therefore not
known to the vast majority of gardeners. M.
Watsoni and M. parviflora are both very handsome
plants, and, thanks to Messrs. Veitch, they have
been introduced in considerable numbers; this
firm exhibited flowers of both at the Temple show.
M. hypoleuca is a fairly fast growing tree with
noble leaves and showy white flowers. M. com-
pressa, an evergreen species from Japan, has
withstood at Kew, without being in the slightest
degree affected by the cold, the rigours of the past
winter (1S93-4), and bids fair to be an acquisition.
Visitors to the meeting held in this building more
than a month ago will remember a very strange
and abnormal member of the Magnolia family, a
basket of cut Bhoots of which was exhibited by
Messrs. Veitch. I refer to Trochodendron ara-
lioides, figured in the Gardener'* Chronicle, an ever-
green shrub with the twigs terminated by panicles
or clusters of green flowers. This, like the Mag-
nolias above named, is also Japanese.

The Berberis family contains but one genus of
woody plants which is deserving of general_re-

Taper read at a meeting of the llojal Horti-
cultural Society by Geo. Nicholson, June 12, 1891.

140

THE GARDEN.

[February 23, 1895

commendation. The following species of Berberis
are well worth growing, even in select collections
of flowering trees and shrubs. B. angulosa and
B. concinna are both Himalayan ; the former has
rather large golden yellowfiowers, produced singly
from the axils of the leaves, and the latter is con-
spicuous on account of the silvery white of the
lower surfaces of its small leaves. B. congestiflora
is a Chilian plant introduced to cultivation by
Messrs. Veitch, and figured some few years ago in
the Botanical Magazine, and in the horticultural
periodicals; when developed, the long shoots,
densely clothed with golden yellow flowers, make
this a most desirable and very ornamental plant.
B. actinaoantha is another Chilian species almost
as handsome, when well grown, as the favourite
B. Darwini.

The family Bixineais principally a tropical one,
but the two genera Idesia and Azara are worth
mention in this paper. Idesia polycarpa is a
Japanese tree of considerable stature in its native
country. In England it does not appear to be
long-lived, but it is worth growing on account of
its handsome foliage and the pendulous panicles
of yellow male flowers. The tree is diu-cious (the
female flowers are green), but are followed by
enormous numbers of small orange-coloured fruits
as large as Peas. Like hosts of plants which are
generally regarded as hardy, this is somewhat
tender in a young state, but if sheltered for a few
years it appears to be able afterwards to dispense
altogether with protection. I have seen large
trees in Northern Italy in places'where the winter
cold is more severe than with us. Several of the
Azaras make charming wall plants ; perhaps the
hardiest is A. microphylla, introduced from Chili
by Messrs. Veitch. the habit of this is very
graceful, and its small fragrant yellow flowers are
produced in great profusion on established plants ;
it should be planted in sheltered places. It would
be interesting to know how this species has fared
at Belvoir Castle since April, 1S90, when the late
Mr. W. Ingram read his paper on "Spring Flower
Gardening." He says: "I should like to call
special attention to that very handsome evergreen,
Azara microphylla. lb is now (at the beginning
of April) in full bloom, but it makes its presence
felt not by the attractive characters of its flowers,
but by the wonderful fragrance they exhale. The
garden is filled with an aroma resembling vanilla."
The Camellia family (Ternstrcemiacea?) furnishes
us with the genus Stuartia, surely one of the most
ornamental genera in cultivation. The Japanese
S. pseudo-Camellia has been exhibited frequently
before the R.H.S., and the North American
S. virginica and S. pentagyna are two of the most
beautiful plants I know. Those who are familiar
with the fine bush of S. virginica at Syon House
do not need to be stimulated by any word of
praise of this plant.

The Mallow family contains, in addition to
Hibiscus syriacus, which is too well known to
need further mention, perhaps only one species of
woody plants thoroughly worth growing. I allude
to the New Zealand Plagianthus Lyalli, a hardy
shrub or small tree with large Cherry-like blos-
soms; it makes an excellent wall plant at Kew,
but grows in the open, and is not injured by frost.
Fremontia californica is the only member of the
order Sterculiacea> which calls for notice here. In
this country it seems to be very short-lived, but
the beauty of its flowers renders it worthy of a
place on a wall, where it blossoms profusely. I
have seen it thriving well as a bush in the open.
It would be interesting to learn particulars of the
oldest plants now in cultivation.

The Rue family does not furnish us with many
hardy shrubs. Choisya ternata, well known as a
delightful wall plant and an excellent subject for
cultivation in pots, is somewhat tender in ayoung
state, but sheltering during severe weather for a
couple of years or so enables the plant to with-
stand afterwards our ordinary winters without
protection in the open. Under such conditions
we have had the plant thriving and flowering
freely as a bush at Kew. Skimmias are worthy of
mention. The true S. japonica (formerly known

all evergreens for smoky grounds; attention has
been called to its value in this respect by Ur.
Masters. Pseuda-gle sepiaria, or Citrus trifoliata,
is nearly allied to the Orange. In the south of
England this is quite hardy. The Rev. Canon
Ellacombe, in his charming garden at Bitton, has
a plant which has fruited; in the neighbourhood
of London the plant flowers freely in the open,
but does not fruit.

From the Buckthorn family we may select the
Christ's Thorn (Paliurus aculeatus), a pretty bush
or small tree, hardy in the neighbourhood of Lon-
don. The buckler-shaped fruit is curious. Ceano-
thus is worthy of special mention. Many of the
species are too tender for our climate unless they
are cultivated as wall plants, but the wealth of
flowers and their colour make them desirable
garden plants. C. rigidus was a sheet of blue a
month or more ago at Kew; at present C. papil-
losus, exhibited to-day, is a worthy successor.
Neither can be depended upon as bush plants near
London. C. americanus makes charming masses
of delicate flowers, white or white tinged with
blush colour; this only grows about 2 feet high,
and at Kew succeeds perfectly in the open.
Some of the garden forms or hybrids derived from
C. azureus make fine bushes, and flower profusely
in the open. (!loire de Versailles and Marie
Simon are two of the best. Rhamnus libanoticus
is conspicuous by reason of its handsome foliage,
which assumes a rich bronzy colour in autumn.

The Vine family is well known as supplying us
with some of the most beautiful hardy climbers.
Vitis Coignetiaj is the only species which I have
space to mention here. The flowers are sweet-
scented, and the colours assumed by the decaying
leaves in autumn are brilliant in the extreme.
Those who have seen this Japanese climber in Mr.
Anthony Waterer's nursery at Knap Hill, rambling
over the trees in its neighbourhood, are not likely
to require any persuasion to make them endeavour
to procure it for their own gardens.

The Horse Chestnut family (Sapindacea?) is an
important one from a garden point of view.
Koelreuteria paniculata, from North China, is not
nearly so much grown as it deserves to be ; its
pinnate leaves, erect panicles of yellowish flowers,
followed— in favourable seasons — by large bladder-
like fruits, make it a conspicuous object in the
shrubbery or park, and the decaying leaves in
autumn assume a rich red-brown tint. Very re-
cently a new species has been discovered and in-
troduced from South China through the agency of
the French missionaries; but it is too early yet to
speak of its value in hardy out-door gardening in
this country. The Chestnuts deserve special
mention— one in particular, .Esculus rubicunda
var. Brioti, a form having flowers about three
shades deeper in colour than the ordinary Red
Chestnut. JE. indica, figured as long ago as the
year 1858 in the Bolaniral Magazine, t. 5117, from
specimens from Mildenhall, in Suffolk, is scarcely
known in gardens, although it is a handsome
species. The Japanese -E. turbinata is also
almost unknown in British gardens. *E. cali-
fornica makes a small compact tree ; it has glossy
leaves and dense panicles of rather small yellowish-
white or flesh-coloured flowers. Xanthoceras sor-
bifolia— generally grown against a wall, and still
rare in gardens — is quite hardy in the open,
although it does not grow so fast as when trained
against a wall. It is a Chinese tree, and likes a
sunny, open place. The finest tree I have seen is
in the famous arboretum at Segrez formed by the
late Mons. Alphonse Lavalle'e.

In the Pea family there is a large number of
excellent garden plants. I can only venture here to
give a selection of those members which are least
frequently seen in gardens. One of the handsomest
species in the genus Genista is G. virgata, which is
hardy enough at Kew, many large bushes having
withstood probably more than thirty winters in that
establishment. Every summer it is laden with a
profusion of golden yellow flowers. G. aitnensis,
a South European species, has pendulous leafless
twigs when the plants are old, and when in flower
the tree (for it really makes a small tree) look

under the name of S. oblata) is one of the best of I like a golden fountain. G germanica, a charming

little bush a foot or so high, s well worth grow-
ing, and in its way is as gcod as the better-known
G. hispanica. Cytisus Aidoini, a native of the
Maritime Alps, is a handsome species only a few
inches high ; in late spring it forms a carpet of
deep yellow flowers. C. purpureus — one of the
parents of the purple Laburnum, L. Adami — is a
beautiful free-flowering dwarf bush, and its purple
blossoms render it conspicuous in a genus where
the vast majority of the species have yellow
flowers ; there are white and blush-coloured varie-
ties of this. The purple Cytisus is much longer-
lived if grown on its own roots than when grafted,
and apparently even grows more freely under
these conditions. C. purgans, a compact South
European bush, has golden yellowfiowers; it is
one of the parents of the so-called Genista pra-cox,
the other being the white Spanish Broom (Cytisus
albus).
Amongst the Rest Harrows, or Ononis, we have

0. arragonensis, a bush a couple of feet or so in
height, laden with erect racemes of yellow flowers.
This seems to be a comparatively recent introduc-
tion to British gardens, and, judging by the Kew
experience of some half-dozen years, it appears to
be quite haidy enough to withstand the winters
near London. 0. fruticosa is a good companion
p'ant to the last-named ; it has rosy-purple or
pinkish flowers. Amorpha canescens, the "Lead
plant" of the United States, is a beautiful species
with grey-green leaves and panicles of blue
flowers. In nurseries a comparatively worthless
plant, a form of A. fruticosa, passes under the
name of A. canescens. Indigofera Gerardiana, a
Himalayan species, grown in some gardens as

1. Dosua and in others as I. coronilhefolia, makes
a handsome wall plant, and also does well in the
open; under the last-named conditions, however,
it sometimes gets damaged by frost, but springs
up rapidly from the root and flowers freely. The
Rose Acacia (Robinia hispida) is almost always
met with grafted on the common Locust; on its
own roots it is much more effective and longer
lived, and the very brittle branches are less likely
to be injured by strong winds. Halimodendron
argenteum, the so-called Salt tree, a native of
Asiatic Russia, does well in sandy soil, but likes
all the sun it can get ; the foliage is silvery and
the flowers purplish-pink in colour. This species
does well near the sea. Hedysarum multijugum,
from Central Asia, &c, is showy enough with its
pinnate leaves and long axillary racemes of bright
red flowers; it is, moreover, perfectly hardy.
Casalpinia japonica is interesting as being per-
haps the only hardy member of a handsome genus,
the others being tropical in their requirements.
It is an introduction of Messrs. Veitch, and is
worthy of cultivation.

Any attempt to give an exhaustive resume of
the good things in the order Rosacea" would end
in ignominious failure; all I can do is to mention
as briefly as possible a few species of the Rose
family which are not so often seen as they deserve
to be. The first to flower is Prunus Davidiana or
Amygdalus Davidiana, a Chinese Almond which
opens its flowers in favourable seasons as early as
the end of January ; this year at Kew our trees
were in fine flower in mid-February. P. Mume, a
Japanese species with numerous varieties, is also
an early flowcrer. P. divaricata, from the Cauca-
sus, Afghanistan, &c., forms a snowy sheet of
blossom long before the leaves appear. In this
country it fruits seldom ; on the Continent, how-
ever, I have seen the beautiful Cherry-like fruits
produced in great profusion. P. pendula, from
Japan, is considered by Professor Sargent to be
one of the floral treasures of fhe world, one of the
very best garden plants ever introduced. The
habit of the tree, too, is remarkably good, the
pendulous branches laden with rose-coloured
flowers giving it a fountain-like aspect. P. pros-
trata is a dwarf bush from Persia, &c. ; it has
small leaves and rosy-red flowers produced before
the leaves are fully developed.

Of P. pumila there are many forms varying
greatly in habit. This plant has a wide distribu-
tion in North America and is perfectly hardy.
One variety is prostrate: another dwarf, say 1£

February 23, 1895 ]

THE GARDEN

141

feet high ; another 4 feet or more in height, and so
on. All bear an abundance of white flowers and
are quite hardy. P. japonica or P. sinensis is one
of the most charming dwarf deciduous shrubs we
possess; it should be grown on its own roots —
grafted on Plum stock it soon becomes unsightly
and goes off. The double white form is prefer-
able to the reddish-tinted one, and is a more pro-
fuse flowerer. P. triloba, also from Japan, &c,
should also be grown on its own roots ; it, too, is
perfectly hardy, although as a wall tree it makes
one of the most beautiful trees we possess. P. nana
or Amygdalus nana, a native of Southern Russia,
&c, is a delightful plant, and also quite hardy.

Nuttallia cerasiformis flowers very early in the
year, when few things are in blossom in the open
air ; it is a native of California, and perfectly
hardy in this country. I have not seen the Dam-
son-like fruits produced in Britain, but on the
Continent it frequently ripens fruit. Of the
Spiraeas I have only space to mention a few. S.
arguta, a plant of hybrid origin, a creation of the
gardener's art, is an early-flowering kind, one of
the very best ; in spring it forms a snowy sheet of
blossom. S. bracteata, introduced from Japan by
Siebold, is still comparatively but little known.
S. decumbens, a native of the Tyrolese Alps, is a
pretty rock plant; it grows about 6 inches in
height and bears a profusion of white flowers
about midsummer. S. dasyantha, a Chinese spe-
cies, is also worth a place even in the most select
collection; it has heads of large showy snow-white
flowers. Stephanandra flexuosa, though the
flowers individually are inconspicuous, is a grace-
ful deciduous bush with beautiful foliage. Exo-
chorda grandiflora, from China, perhaps does best
as a wall plant, although it is perfectly hardy —
the large snowy-white flowers not being so likely
to be injured by the cold of our English springs.
E. Alberti is a Central Asian plant of much more
recent introduction. Eucryphia pinnatifolia is
one of the numerous fine shrubs introduced from
Chili by Messrs. Veitch ; in the neighbourhood of
London, at any rate, it is quite hardy. A beautiful
shrub is Rubus deliciosus, with large white Rose-
like flowers ; it is a native of the Rocky Mountains,
is perfectly hardy, and does best in a good stiff
loamy or clayey soil ; in light sandy spots it does
not assume its true character, and is not satisfac-
tory. The Roses, the single ones, species or first
crosses, would supply abundant materials for a
paper, simply treating them from a purely garden-
ing standpoint. A fortnight ago R. lutescens,
with its large creamy-yellow flowers, was a mass
of flower at Kew. R. mierophylla, a native of
India, is exhibited to-day; it has peculiar spiny
fruits, which when ripe exhale an odour somewhat
resembling that of the Pine-apple. R. macro-
phylla is another Indian species, a tall-growing
bush with long leaves and red flowers, followed by
peculiar long fruits. R. sericea, also from India,
is not nearly fo well known as it should be ; its
white flowers are produced abundantly in the
open and the bush is quite hardy. One peculiarity
deserving of mention in this species is the fact of
its very frequently having only four petals. As it
is not mentioned in Mr. Webster's useful little
book, "Hardy Ornamental Flowering Trees arid
Shrubs," a book which neverthaless contains a
considerable number of little-known plants, I
presume it is even less known than I at first
thought. R. arkansana is distinct in colouring
and a profuse flowerer; it makes a bush 6 feet or
8 feet ill height. R. involuta var. Wilsoni, from
the Menai Straits, and R. hibernica are two of
our native British Roses which are worth a place
in the garden, the former on account of the beauty
of its rosy-red flowers, and the latter on account of
its compact habit, glaucous leaves, white or flesh-
tinted flowers, and handsome fruits.

Of the Thorns and Crabs I have no time to
speak. I venture to suggest, however, that much
good work might be done if gardeners and nursery-
men exhibited fruiting branches of these (luring
the autumn meetings of the society. The Cotone-
asters are, most of them, not only very ornamental
when in flower, but still more ornamental when in
.fruit. C. fiigic'a has large corymbs of white

flowers followed by scarlet berries, and C. bacil-
laris white flowers and black or purple-black
fruits. C. horizontalis — like the two species
already mentioned, a native of the Himalayan
region — is very distinct in habit, the branches
being arranged in a distichous manner; the
flowers, particularly when in bud, are reddish
tinted. Pyrus arbutifolia and P. nigra are pretty
dwarf shrubs with white flowers; the first has red
fruits, and ripens late in the season, the other
black fruits, ripening early. The foliage of both
assumes a rich red colour in autumn.

The Saxifrage family is rich in garden plants.
The genus Deutzia is well known, but a recently
introduced Japanese species, D. parviflora, is
scarcely known as yet in this country. It is a
perfectly hardy shrub, and one of the best of a
genus all of which are desirable plants. The
genus Philadelphus contains a number of most
useful flowering shrubs. I mention specially P.
microphyllus, a Western North American dwarf
shrub, with small white flowers; it comes in very
useful in places where there is not sufficient space
for the taller-growing species. M. Lemoine, of
Nancy, has raised a number of hybrids between
this and P. coronarius, the Mock Orange, and these
also are really excellent garden plants. The Rocky
Mountain Jamesia americana is worth growing; it
is a dwarf bush, free flowering, and perfectly
hardy. Carpenteria californica, a handsome shrub
with large Philadelphus like flowers, is generally
grown against a wall; it, however, thrives as a
bush in the open shrubbery. Of all the Escal-
lonias, E. Philippiana is the hardiest in the neigh-
bourhood of London ; it is a compact grower, and
produces an abundance of white flowers. Itea
virginica is hardy enough, but likes a strong
loamy or clayey soil ; it only grows about a couple
of feet in height, and its terminal erect racemes of
white flowers are very showy. This plant, too, is
worth growing, if only for the beautiful autumnal
tints assumed by the decaying leaves.

THE ROCK GARDEN.
III.

Femu-ary 11. — Since my last notes on the
rock garden relating to winter effects and early
blooming hardy plants we have had in the
western counties a continuous spell of cold
weather of exceptional severity. The ground
for the most part is covered with several inches
of snow, and cold easterly winds accompanied
by a temperature varying from 6° to 22° of
frost have been the order of the day during the
last fortnight. Most of the smaller rock plants
mentioned in my previous notes are buried be-
neath a hard crust of frozen snow, and, with
the exception of rock shrubs, only such plants
are visible as are occupying abruptly sloping
ground where the snow could not settle. The
continuous hard frost has bronzed the foliage of
many plants which do not generally lose their
bright green colour during winter. In the
foliage of Saxifraga tridactylites, for instance,
I do not remember having previously seen such
a decided change from green to bronze, and Gen-
tiana verna is quite of a reddish hue at present.

Flowers among the rocks under such excep-
tional circumstances as regards the weather are,
of course, quite out of the question this week,
but on looking over various rock gardens one
cannot help noting the effeot of dwarf shrubs
introduced here and there for the sake of giving
greater prominence, especially to elevated por-
tions, where special provisions have been made
to keep the roots of the rock shrubs away from
the smallest and choicest alpines. Among such
dwarf shrubs, which are handsome even now,
though the snow is covering the ground, I will
mention a few of the most striking.

Azilea amejena, whose flowers are not due
for several mouths to come, U, neverthe-
less, very ornamental just now, owing to its

compact habit of growth and irregular mode of
branching. The same might be said of the
alpine Rhododendrons, R. ferrugineum and R.
hirsutum. Several kinds of shrubby Veronicas,
too, are very effective winter ornaments. In
Messrs. Veitch's rockwork at Exeter four of
these were planted side by side about three
years ago, and it is interesting to note their
relative progress. Veronica Colensoi, which
flowers late in the season, has made a compact
little bush about 1 foot through, and its bright
green glossy leaves are very conspicuous just
now. Veronica salicoruioides is still only about
3 inches high and perhaps 10 inches in
diameter, which proves the exceedingly slow
growth of this variety ; the foliage is of a yel-
lowish green tint, and resembles more that
of some Lycopod than a Veronica. Veronica
cupressoides planted at the same time is now
about 1 foot in height, and might well be mis-
taken for a conifer. Veronica piuguifolia by
the side of it has formed a spreading bush,
covering several square feet with its prostrate
stems and glaucous foliage, which hanging over
the stones are very effective.

Another rock shrub of prostrate habit and of
effective appearance even during this cold
weather is Arbutus Uva-ursi, which growa
downwards over rocks and soil, and is well
adapted for covering ttony banks. Peculiarly
striking, too, is Hedera conglomeracea, the only
Ivy which I think should be used in a rock
garden that contains small alpines, which would
soon be killed by fast-growing kinds of Ivy. I
have just seen a specimen of Hedera con-
glomeracea wdiich was planted nine years ago,
and is now a bush scarcely more than a yard in
diameter and about 15 inches high. Instead of
clinging to soil or stones the branches turn
upwards, and are densely clothed with compact
masses of foliage. Among the rock shrubs
which are handsome at the present cold season
I may also mention Raphiolepis ovata, which
has not suffered in the slightest degree from
the effects of the continuous frosts we have had
lately. The plant in question is growing among
stones covered by a woolly carpet of Thymus
lanuginosa ; it was planted about ten years ago,
and forms a handsome bush about 2\ feet high
and 4 feet in diameter. It flowers every year,
but its ovate, thick leathery leaves give it an
ornamental appearance all the year round.

The severe weather has left its mark on
several of the larger kinds of plants forming a
background to the rock garden. Carpenteria
californica, for instance, has quite a shrivelled
appearance owing to its leaves being curled up
by the sharp frost, but as the same plant stood
22° of frost during a previous winter without
any protection, its leaves will probably expand
again as soon as the weather breaks up. Fre-
montia californica also appears to have suffered
a little, but though its foliage has become
brown, the buds appear to lie green and
healthy. Another rare plant, Eucryphia pinna-
tifolia, does not seem in the least affected by the
continuous severe frost, and is already showing
its fresh, green buds quite 1 inch in length.
Magnolia stellata is densely covered with flower
buds, and promises to look better than ever in
spite of the hard weather.

A fine specimen of Romneya Coulteri retained
its green leaves in perfect freshness until the
beginning of January, but since we had
20 of frost all stems and leaves are withered
to the giound. As, however, the plant is well
established, this probably will not affect it, and
the withered stems and leaves will affcrd shelter
to the young crowns below the ground.
Exeter. F. W. Meyer.

(To be continued. )

142

THE GARDEN"

f February 23, 1895.

Notes of the Week.

Galanthus cassaba, two years established, is
now in flower, showing above the snow ; it cer-
tainly gains in strength and beauty, and is going
to be one of our best and hardiest kinds. — T.
Smith.

Marettia bicolor on an open walJ. — I saw

this plant during the month of October last
growing luxuriantly and flowering in the freest
possible manner on an open wall in a garden near
Bra}7, where it had been for two years at least,
apparently happier than I ever remember to have
seen it under glass. — T. Smith.

Puschkinia scilloides. — There was a note
anent this plant in a recent issue having refer-
ence to the fondness of slugs for it. I wonder if
by P. scilloides P. lihanotiea is meant ? There is
not so very much difference apparently between
these two bulbs. The latter, however, is very
plentiful, while the former is scarce. — T. Smith.

Anthracite coal. — With the thermometer a
few feet away at the time of writing registering
24° of frost, it is a comfort to feel that all the
1 ouses being forced are perfectly safe, and a cor-
rect temperature in each through the use of an-
thracite. After using it for many years, I can re-
commend it as a boon to gardeners and econo-
mical to their employers, as though it may cost
more than the ordinary fuel at first, it moie than
counterbalances that by the time it burns with-
out replenishing or ether atten'iin, and also being
Fmokeless, it is no nuisance if the gare'ers are
clcse to the mansion. — W. (). C.

Iris Histric. — The extreme hardiness of some
hardy plants is well shown in the case of this
Iris. In a nook looking east is a colony with one
flower open and numerous buds in various stages of
expansion. The ground is as hard as iron. There
is a little sunshine most da37s, which, of course,
they get the benefit of, but which is not enough
even to thaw the surface. How under such condi-
tions this charming bulb continues to make pro-
gress from day to day is an utter mystery. One
would imagine it should have been melted into
pulp instead, but it looks bold and happy quite as
though it liked it.— T. Smith.

Sarraceniapurpurea. — A number of plants oc
this in pots standing just below the water surft ce
cf an open-air tank have been fully exposed to all
the tenible frosts we have lately had. In many
cases the pots are smashed from around them ; in
most of the others the soil and plant have been
lifted up half way out of the pots. I know it
comes from a region where frosts are more severe
than anything we experience here ; still, a plant
n nature, moie or less protected by herbage and
snow, is much more favourably situated than are
those described above. If they come through all
right I think we may safety call it a hardy plant ;
at any rate I will let the readers of The Garden
know. — T. Smith.

National Chryaanthemum Society. —The
general committee of this society held a meeting
at Anderton's Hotel on Monday last, Mr. R.
Ballantine in the chair. Most of the business done
was in view of the annual meeting of the members
en Monday next, and occupied the attention of the
members until an unusually late hour. The draft
schedule for 1S95 was received and passed except
the classes for special prizes. The draft report for
the past year and balance sheet were also pre-
sented, the latter showing that income had been
received to the amount of £895 19s. Od. Mr.
Briscoe Ironside drew attention to the proposed
alteration in the rules, which conferred upon the
vice-presidents the privilege of being ex officio
members of the floral committee, a body specially
chosen for a particular work, and he thought it
was to be feared that at some future time difficulty
might arise because vice-presidents were not in
every case Chrysanthemum experts. There was
a good deal of discussion on this subject, [and

ultimately the recommendation was withdrawn.
The Windsor Horticultural Society applied for
admission in affiliation, and a few new members
were elected.

The Jew's Mallow (Kerria japoniea). — Amid
the prevailing wintry desolateness of the garden
during the last week I was forcibly attracted by
the soft green tint of the long rods or slender
stems of Kerria japoniea. A good-sized clump of
this (some of the rods of which are over 10 feet
high) grows close to a high Hawthorn hedge here,
and with the ground covered a foot deep or more
with snow and little else to strike the eye except
the drab-coloured Gooseberry bushes and the
darker brown of the Hawthorn hedge, this cheer-
ful green clump of Kerria stems came out in very
prominent relief with a most enlivening effect.
Permit me to recommend it very strongly as an
excellent subject for positions in which small
conifers are often planted near dwelling-houses
for a cheering winter view from the drawing-
room windows. The pleasing soft green tint of
the Kerria stems (in a good-sized clump) is in-
finitely more agreeable to the eye at that season
than the sombre gieen of the foliage of conifers.
— W. M.

A fine new Violet. — The San Francisco
Examiner describes the new Violet named Cali-
fornia the result of a chance experiment in cross-
fertilisation of Professor Emery E. Smith as one
of the botanical achievements of the century. Mr.
Joseph Carbone, as the cultivator of the new
flower, must share the honours with its raiser.
The new Violet is described as follows by the
Ex 'miner : " The Violet has never before attained
such beauty as it now possesses in its latest
and most perfect development. :The purity of
colour, the delicacy of fragrance, the grace of
form, and the unusual size of the California place
it easily in the lead of all other flowers of its
species, and with many it will rank as the most
beautiful of all Cowers." Professor E. E. Smith,
in speaking of the flower, says, " It has been in
the course of propagation three years, and has
now attained its most perfect form, colour, fra-
grance, and size. It is a vigorous plant, ab-
solutely free from disease of any kind, and so un-
like many other Violets. Its flowers are of im-
mense size, sufficiently large to more than cover
a silver dollar. Its colour is a clear violet purple
and does not fade. The fragrance is intense, and
the stems vary in length from 10 inches to 14
inches" — W. E. Gtmrleton.

A note on Pearf. — I have been reading with
great interest the remarks by your correspon-
dents on Pears, more especially as I am unfortu-
nate enough to have between thirty and forty
varieties here, many of which I do not even know
the names of. I took charge of these gardens in
the autumn of L893, so have not had an opportunity
of becoming acepjainteel with the goocl or bad
qualities of this large collection, the season ot
1894 being with us very unfavourable to them,
plenty of fruit, but small and for the most part
flavourless. The one exception as to size was
Winter Nelis growing on a south wall. The fruit
was above the average. Jcsephine de Malines,
also on a south wall, bore a fair crop of fruit
rather under the average size, and, strangely
enough, about one half ripened well about the
beginning of December and the other half is still
in the fruit room, now ripening, but without a
particle of flavour. A favourite Pear here for
dessert is one called the Glastonbury Pear. The
tree is trained over an arched trellis, and in 1893
bore a heavy crop of very fine fruit which ripened
in October, the shape and colour resembling the
variety Benedictine. I should have sent you a
sample last year, but, like many others, the fruit
was so small and spotted that they would not be
recognisable. I should be obliged if any of your
readers could tell me something more about it,
and if it has another name. — T. Carter, Bvtlehjh
Court Gardau, Glastonbury.

cided improvement on that of the previous one,
and there was a cold thaw on several occasions
during the daytime, the frost which set in on
the 22nd of January still holds, having now
(Wednesday) lasted exactly thirty days. During
this period the thermometer exposed on the snow
has on no night indicated less than 11° of frost,
and on five successive nights registered more than
30° of frost. On level ground the Grass has been
continuously covered with snow from 1| inches to
3.V inches deep for the last twenty-four days. The
frost descended into the ground on the 18th to
its lowest point — to the depth of 20 inches. Since
then the thermometer at 2 feet deep has risen
four-tenths of a degree, and that at 1 foot deep
nine-tenths of a degree. There has been no
measurable fall of either rain or snow for eighteen
days. For over three weeks the wind has been
almost constantly in the north-east — that is to
sav, during that time it has only blown from any
other points than those bstween N and E.S.E.
for altogether fifty hours. The 16th and 19th
were very bright days for February, the record of
sunshine amounting respectively to 8 and 7 J hours.
— E. M., Berkhamsted.

Tho weather in West Herts. — Although
the weather during the past week has been a de.

MANURE FOR GRASS FIELDS.
Will any correspondent inform me the best and
most economical manure for the above? The soil
is good loam, with deep gravel subsoil in south of
England. — Hayling.

%* Much depends whether you have manures
at command or can obtain them readily, as the
question of cost is a consielerable item. The land
being good loam, there are great advantages, and
it is easier to select suitable manures. If animal
manures can be obtained readily I would givo
them the first place. Horse manure is most valu-
able for a loamy soil, and if cow manure can bo
mixed with it, 1 do not know of any better mate-
rial, as the subsoil being gravel, the manure is
more holding and not so readily washed down
when spread on tho surface. But cow manure to
be in condition must have fermented, anel ii
excellent when mixed with other manures or soils.
If mixeel in such a manner that the ammonia ii
retained, few manures are more valuable for your
purpose. By mixing, I mean taking each manure
as gathered in small quantities and placing in
small heap?, frequently turning, so that the heat
is not too violent or the manure wasted by too
rapid evaporation. This manure not only feeels
the plants, but adds to the soil when placed en
tho surface, giving the surface roots greater
strength ; whereas artificial fertilisers cause a
ejuicker root action, but not so lasting. Hence the
value of animal manures. My next point is, can
you obtain such manures in ejuantity and at a low
price? If sa, I advise doing so in preference to
others, or if only a proportion can be obtained,
dress a part of your land one year with the
manure and give a light dressing of a fertiliser
next. Some few years ago the writer took over
300 acres of Grass land that had been im-
poverished for years. Animal manures were
too costly, and attention was given to night soil
which could be had for carting. This was got in
quantity anel mixed with gaslitne, placsel in largo
heaps, and spread liberally early in the year. The
cost was not much in comparison to other manures,
and I never saw finer results. Perhap3 you may
be in a position to try this, but of course it cannot
be used when fresh. I believe, however, that
night soil mixed with road scrapings, marl or soil
is better than gaslime, as the lime destroys a large
amount of the ammonia, which should be retained.
My reason for using it was, having a heavy clay
land to deal with it was required ; in your case it
is not. As regards artificial foods, they have not
all the same value and require to be procured
from a good source : then they are valuable for
plants. Probably you will be unable to procuro
sufficient animal manure this season and must
have other aids. The effects produced on Grass
by nitrates is evident after such land has been

neglected for years, and the outlay will be well

repaid.— W. S. M.

THE GARDEN.

143

No. 1215. SATURDAY, March 2,1895. Vol. XLVII

" This Is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Natuke." — Shakespeare.

Trees and Shrubs.

THE SCARLET-FRUITED THORN.

(CRAT.EGUS COCCINEA.)

Where the ornamental qualities of the speci-
men are the planter's principal consideration,
this North American Thorn certainly deserves
more than a passing notice, for both flower,
fruit, and decaying leaves form a prominent
feature of the tree at their respective seasons.
The Scarlet-fruited Thorn is a native of a con-
siderable tract of country in North America,
and though known here for the last two cen-
turies, its merits are not sufficiently recognised.
It is a free, vigorous-growing tree, reaching a
height of 20 feet or thereabouts, and is amply
furnished with large, bright green, shining foli-
age. About the end of May the clusters of
large white blossoms are borne in great pro-
fusion, while the berries which succeed them
are, when ripe, of a bright coral-red colour, and
in this state are remarkably conspicuous. In
autumn, before the leaves drop, they become
richly suffused with yellow, and here and there
occasionally a flush of scarlet. The spines of
this Thorn are long and formidable, but in most
cases are but sparingly produced. As a medium
growing tree for an isolated position on the
lawn, the Scarlet-fruited Thorn is well suited ;
its ornamental qualities are then brought
prominently forward. From the frequency
with which it occurs in its native country,
and the readiness with which it can be raised
from seed, it is obvious there must be some
well-marked varieties ; still none of them are
superior to the ordinary form, and some not
equal to it.

Besides this, several other North American
Thorns are very ornamental, prominent amongst
them being the Washington Thorn (Crataegus
cordata), especially noticeable on account of
its late-flowering habit, in which respect it
is even more tardy than the European Cra-
taegus tauacetifolia, which is usually regarded
as one of the very last, but I have seen the
American species in full bloom when the Euro-
pean one was over. C. cordata forms a small
tree, rather compact and regular in outline, with
dark green shining leaves and large clusters of
white blossoms. The berries are deep red, but
no larger than those of the common Hawthorn,
and are seldom borne in any great profusion.
Thorns of the Cockspur class, represented by
the typical species (C. Crus-galli) and several
varieties, are all handsome, while among them
are to be found some well-marked forms. In
the typical Cockspur Thorn the leaves are
bluntly ovate, of a bright shining green, and
the whole aspect of the tree low and spreading.
A tine bold variety is arbutifolia, in which the
leaves are larger and the whole plant more
vigorous than the type ; while quite a curiosity
is furnished by linearifolia, or salicifolia, as it is
sometimes called, the leaves of which are narrow,
while the branches extend in a horizontal
manner, so that if grafted at a height of 4 feet
or 5 feet from the ground the plant forms a
flatfish head, which renders it very distinct.
A near ally of the Cockspurs is C. macrantha,
whose most prominent feature is the large
curved spines, which in size surpass those of all

the others and present a most formidable ap-
pearance. The greenish yellow fruits of C.
flava stamp it as a distinct North American
Thorn, but it is certainly less ornamental than
any that precede it, while the same remarks
apply to C. spathulata, a low, but neat-growing
kind with peculiarly shaped leaves, which are
retained till late in the season, so that it is
often quite sub-evergreen in character. The
flowers are not particularly conspicuous, while
the sealing-wax-like berries, though bright, are
too small to be very showy. From a fruiting
point of view, one of thy most distinct of North
American Thorns is Crataegus Douglasi, which
attains the dimensions of a small tree. It be-
longs to the early flowering section, and though
pretty when in bloom, its most interesting stage
is when laden with haws, which are freely pro-
duced. The berries are of a deep, almost
blackish purple, and larger than those of the
European C. nigra, the berries of which more
nearly approach a black hue than do those of
the American species. All the Thorns herein
mentioned are perfectly hardy, and in no way
particular as to soil or situation. T.

duced in quantity, they are when ripe very orna-
mental. At the same time the fruits are in many
instances sparingly borne. The curious R. hypo-
glossus, in whicli each leaf produces a smaller one
from its midrib, is both curious and ornamental.
A strong growing kind is R. androgynus, a native
of the Canary Islands. This needs the protection
of a greenhouse, and as a vigorous climber for
large structures is very effective. In the temperate
house at Kew and in the Crystal Palace it covers
a considerable space. While the whole of the
above were at one time included in the genus
Ruscus, and are now-a-days always spoken of as
such, this last is by botanists grouped by itself
under the name of Semele androgyna, and the
Alexandrian Laurel is Danae racemosa. — T.

SHORT NOTES.— TREES AND SHRUBS.

Golden Scotch Fir.— This is at its best dur-
ing the dull days of winter, and on this account is
more noticed than it would be later on. It is a
compact, bushy growing form, whose foliage
towards the end of autumn becomes of a deep
golden tint, which is retained throughout this
winter, till on the return of spring the specimen
resumes its normal green hue, and remains in
that state till autumn again sets in. From this
peculiarity it is very desirable, as some of the
golden Retinosporas become at times bronzed
during the winter, and the tint of this Fir is very
bright and cheerful. It is by no means the only
well-marked variety of Scotch Fir, there being
among others a silver variety (argentea), in which
the leaves are of a silvery grey tint when first ex-
panded, butlosetheirbrightnesslateron. Itismore
tree-like in growth than the golden form. Among
the varieties remarkable for differences of habit
may be especially mentioned the Highland Pine
(hoiizontalis) and a weeping form (pendula), whose
branches droop in some instances a good deal. A
direct contrast to this last is furnished by the
variety fastigiata, almost as upright as a Lom-
bardy Poplar, and a specimen of which among
other Firs stands out very conspicuously by reason
of its marked divergence in habit. The dwarf
form globosa, that rarely exceeds a yard in height,
suggests some of the miniature varieties of the
Spruce, which are so plentiful.— T.

Ruscu.8 racemosu8. — This, known also as the
Alexandrian Laurel, is decidedly the most orna-
mental of the hardy members of the family, and is
in many respects a very desirable little shrub. It
is altogether a more graceful subject than ilie
Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aculeatus), and its
slender shoots reach a height of 3 feet to 4 feet,
a well-established clump then suggesting an
affinity to some of the hardy Bamboos. The
leaves, or rather cladodes, are about a couple of
inches long and of a deep shining green. During
the spring the flowers make their appearance in
little clusters at the points of the shoots. They
are small and greenish white, and are consequently
not particularly showy. Apart from its desirable
features as a graceful little evergreen shrub this
Ruscus is very valuable in a cut state, as the
slender shoots clothed with their deep green foli-
age are most effective when arranged in a vase,
particularly if lit up by a few flowers. In this
way the foliage remains fresh for a very long
time ; indeed, it is one of the most durable ever-
greens that we possess for such a purpose. It
succeeds best in a partially shaded spot, and under
such conditions will thrive better than many other
subjects on a chalky soil. The common Butcher's
Broom (R. aculeatus) will succeed under the drip
of trees better than most shrubs. It is entirely
I evergreen in character, and if the berries are pro-

Hedera maderiensis variegata.— " E. J."

(p. 71) does well to call attention to this silver-edged
Ivy as a subject for house decoration at this season of
the year. Nothing could be more effective wheu
arranged with dark-foliaged plants and Ferns, the
broad snow-like band standing out in bold contrast
to its surroundings.— E. MoLYNEl'X.

The Tulip Tree in the north. — There is a
fully matured specimen of Liriodendron tulipifera
standing in the grounds belonging to the Right Hon.
Lord Houghton, Frystone Park, Ferrybridge. I have
seen it bearing flowers equal to any tree of the same
species growing in the southern counties. It stands
in a dry and sheltered position, and is about SI) feet
in height, with a good spread of branches. When I
saw it last it was showing signs of decay on the
upper extremities, owing, perhaps, to the age of the
tree and the climate. — A. K. S.

COLOUR IN FLORISTS' FLOWERS.
An acquaintance with our old florists' flowers
runs back through more than forty years of my
life, and I may, therefore, confess to a long and
early love for these plants of special types and
selected beauties. Without them the garden
would not be, horticulturally, home to me.
Like nearly all the brotherhood of florists, I
have grown other things as well, and enjoyed
them all, but no plants are so associated with
the garden memories of a lifetime or recall
them so tenderly and so unchangeably as the
old florists' flowers.

A few writers on matters floricultural, with-
out anything like love or practical knowledge
of these plants, seem to enjoy having a fling at
florists for the singleness and intensity of their
aim, but probably they amuse us as much as we
amuse tbem. They confuse issues. I am not
sure that my friend Mr. Douglas is " bright,
rich, and deep " in the colouring of his views
on the colours of florists' flowers in his paper of
Feb. 0. I do not know the two Carnations
which are so artistic, yet rejected of strict
florists, but in a rose flake variety, a very pale
tint, probably fading with age, and possibly
associated, as weak colours often are, with
petals of thin substance, would not stand so
high with an expert judge as a clear substantial
shade of rose— a colour capable of much good
variety. The flower might be weak in points
of form that would submerge a prettmess of
colour Well formed does not consist in a
mere multiplicity of petals, but in the breadth,
and substance, and smoothness of each. Many
of the southern flowers have been too full and
confused, and their strength of a type not calm
and powerful, but fussy and indistinct.- lhe
white ground Carnation with beautiful rose and
purple markings should, by that, be a pink and
purple bizarre. Perhaps the third colour—
which makes the bizarre, and is here the purple
—was insufficiently expressed. In a well-
marked flower every petal contains each colour

144

THE GARDEN.

[March 2, 1895

characteristic of its class. Curiously, although
that third colour in the bizarre Carnation is the
darkest — and thus presumably the strongest —
it is just the one which is apt to wear out
gradually with the age of a variety, or to dis-
appear suddenly, leaving the flower a sport into
the two-coloured flake classes. Hence a young
variety in the bizarre section should possess the
third colour in abundant strength to allow for
very possible diminution in later life. Third
colours are stripes of black, crimson, purple and
deep scarlet, and are most highly prized and
effective features. There is little fear of the
bizarre colour being overdone.

But colours are only half the flowers' wealth
and show their beauties but partially on a bad
form, by which in the Carnation is meant
narrow, strappy, twisted, saw-edged petals. It
is too wide an assertion to say that in the
florists' Carnation we insist that "the colours,
whatever they are, should be of a dark, and not
a pale tint" ; for then where were our rose
flakes and pink bizarres ? where the light
purple-red and rose-edged Picotees ? These are
of tints comparatively light, yet still may be of
shades bright, deep (not in the sense of dark)
and rich. But they are not to be washy or
evanescent. There may be something artistic
and harmonious in such pallor, but, as the boy
said of his harmonious blue milk, "This is
indeed weakness!" We require that a florists'
flower shall die well.

In Auriculas, my friend deprecates the cast-
ing out of edged flowers with violet or plum
body colours in favour of those with a black
ground. But I do not recollect "a splendid
truss of perfectly formed flowers " with a violet
or plum body colour rejected because of that.
There is Col. Champneys, a kind of puce
grounded grey edge, and Chapman's Maria, an
almost white edge with deep violet body, and
Moore's Violet, an old green edge with violet
ground, and Countess of Dunmore, a white edge
with chocolate ground ; but in these and others
that I could name the edge was so insufficient
or, as the flower grew, was so broken into by
the ground colour, that the harmony of propor-
tion was broken up. Along with this went the
further fault of inconstancy of these ground
colours. Black has been alike the favourite
body colour of our best edged Auriculas, and
the colour that lives densest and truest till the
flower dies. No one but two northerners may
remember it, but the best Auricula, with a per-
sistent blue ground colour and snowy white
edge in fine proportions, was a seedling of Mr.
Simonite's at the London show now many years
ago. It never lived to see another— it died of
going to London. He and I have for years
tried for edged Auriculas with blue, violet, or
crimson body colours, but with very partial
success— nothing yet that will equal in other
properties the black ground edges. So also with
the gold-laced Polyanthus of the florist types.
If any red grounds were equal in their respec-
tive properties to the black ground flowers, they
would not be rejected. Lord Lincoln in black,
and Kingfisher in red ground varieties were an
ideal pair, of most lovely and forcible contrast,
but both are lost now. It is a most important
point that the gold of the lacing should be as
rich as that of the eye and of the same tone of
yellow. The lacing is but a golden thread, and
a difference in colour on the side of weakness
looks threadbare and poor.

I would also embolden the diffidence of my
friend on the Tulip, whereof he remarks that
the florists' Tulip may have a rich dark-pencilled
feathering, but the beam, as it is termed, of a
light colour. Or it may have a rich red or dark
crimson on a deep yellow ground, and because I

of these two colours it is again rejected. "It
is a tricolor ; it is of no use," says the florist.
But verily he does not say that. The florist's
inadmissible tricolor is not a flower that has two
colours in markings, but one that has a dirty
mixture of two colours in its ground of white
or yellow. What we mean by a tricolor and
reject is a Tulip in which the ground colour,
that should be decisively a pure white or yellow,
is instead a washy or streaky compound of both.
A flamed Tulip is not condemned because the
beam of the flame is centrally more glowing,
with an intenser colour as if by the fervency of
a higher heat. Nearly every one of our best
flamed Tulips has this beauty and emphasis of
two colours in the beam of the flame. Sir J.
Paxton, a model flower, has it in force ; Ajax,
a lemon ground with black feather and flame,
has a crimson beam in the centre of the flame ;
while in Wm. Lee, the feather and flame are
black throughout. Storer's Dr. Hotcheon (I
think our best flamed bizarre) has vivid flashes
of intense crimson among the dark flame tongues
and beam. Scarlet bizarre Tulips, like Dr.
Hardy and Orion, have beams flamed with deeper
red. So in the class of rose Tulips with scar-
let markings on a pure white ground, the flamed
flowers are beamed with a lighter or darker
shade of red, as in the deep crimson beam of
old Aglaia or the pinker flash than the scarlet
in Mabel. The same marked feature occurs in
the different class colour of the other white
ground flowers, the bybloemens, with black or
violet markings. The only point on which
the beam of the flamed Tulip would be ac-
counted weak is where the central colour
in it is only a relic or infusion of the old
original mother or breeder colour, i.e., the
maiden colour of the variety while it was yet
in its seedling, self-coloured state of existence.
That infancy of colour is inexplicably laid aside
when the flower breaks into its completed
colouring, and we do not like to see it again if
it were very curious, nondescript, and weak,
not to say artistic, as in flowers like Master-
piece, which as a feathered flower is jet black
on a deep gold ground, but in its self-coloured
or breeder form is exactly the harmonious blend
of brimstone and treacle.

All the rose class are lovely as breeders, and
many of the bybloemens too, but some seedling
forms of the bizarre class are very old. As to
the allowance of stained stamens or filaments
(not anthers, for these are always black or yel-
lowish, according to the colour of the pollen
upon them), we adhere to purity, and not
smudginess of these. They harmonise better so
with the pure white or yellow cup than if im-
bued with a dull and dirty inky tinge.

It may not be easy to explain why a smut
upon the nose is so ridiculous, but so it is.
Yet are not two colours richer than one ? Still,
we have a narrow-minded, arbitrary, and
florist-like preference for that stamen of the
countenance to be unstained. Put it thus, if
you will, about our florists' Tulip. The flower
is fairer, more lovable, more harmonious with
filaments as pure as the silvern or golden cup,
and no enactment that would allow stained
stamens or impure base would ever be recog-
nised or sanctioned by florists who know or
grow the Tulip.— F. D. Horner, Burton-in-
Lonsdalc.

I am glad Mr. Martin Rowan has

alluded to the Carnations referred to by me in
the paper published in The Garden. I am
sure there is not much difference of opinion
between Mr. Rowan and myself. I had not in
my mind when I wrote such growers of florists'
flowers as he is. In regard to my Carnation
Harmony, I must insist on its being placed in

the class of pink and purple bizarres. The
colours are a true pale pink and purple on a
white ground, and when Mr. Rowan says "it
could only be by courtesy a pink and purple
bizarre " I do not follow him. I assert it was
not admitted by the florists because of the pale
pink stripes and flakes. There can be no doubt
about the purple colour ; it is not a fancy in any
sense of the word. Our leading flower artist,
Mr. Moon, and other tasteful persons found
certain beauties in it when it was grown in the
open borders of the garden at Gravetye Manor.
The pale rose colour was there considered a
merit which by a leading northern florist was
a disqualification. Mr. Rowan will see that I
merely wished to point out the difference
between a florist who examines a flower with
certain preconceived notions as to colour, and
an artist, or any other tasteful person, who has
been educated to a knowledge of colour effects.
The same remarks hold good as regards the
rose flake Carnation, and in this connection
what does Mr. Rowan mean when he says that
Dorothy was as a rose flake but a half-developed
flower ? How half developed ? I had plants of
it and grew it under my own eye, and can assert
that it was a large, handsome, well-developed
flower as regards petal : indeed, one of the
largest, the colour a soft pale rose. This pale
colour was the only fault any grower found with
it. I appreciate the pink and purple bizarre
and the rose flake as much as Mr. Rowan does.
What I complain of is drawing the line at any
particular shade of colour.

Mr. Rowan tells us "that so far from florists
despising or rejecting the beauty which belongs
to Carnations of other types, classes for these
are provided at the exhibitions of all our
societies." True, quite true, this. But Mr.
Rowan does not tell us who first provided these
classes for the outcasts. Not Mr. Rowan,
for I fancy they were provided before his
time. Not the florists to whom I have al-
ready alluded. The florists opposed them, and
would have none of them at first. It was the
raiser of Harmony who first suggested these
classes, and they were put into the first
schedules of the National Carnation andPicotee
Society (Southern Section). The old florists,
like other people, have had to stand aside before
the effects of a more liberal interpretation of
what is form and colour. In the same manner
I suggested classes for fancy Auriculas, and
these classes have been in the schedules of the
Auricula Society ever since we were able to
show collections of them. The classes are
seldom well filled, because florists will not grow
them ; but here again we have the evidence of
one of our leading artists who discerns beauty
and infinite variety in the fancy Auriculas. Most
of those in cultivation have been raised from
seed by me, and I have carefully saved and
cultivated them for many years. I do not much
care whether they come into the florist's defini-
tion of a florist's flower. I can grow these and
admire them at the same time that I value at
their true worth the green, grey, white, and
self-edged varieties. This matter of colour and
form in florists' flowers gives rise to contention
at certain intervals when the subject is taken up
in the gardening papers. I believe in a stan-
dard of excellence to which florists should work
up their seedlings. In all the seedlings I raise
I have a certain standard in my mind's eye, and
have not been unsuccessful even from a florist's
point of view. I took up the yellow ground
Picotee some years ago, and as evidence that the
florists appreciate my work, they have returned
in an election of varieties nearly all my seedlings,
and I try to get every shade of colour I possibly
can — J. Douglas.

March 2, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

145

Orchids.

VANDAS.

Where there is plenty of room for their full de-
velopment the larger growing members of this
fine Old World genus are among the most beau-
tiful Orchids in cultivation, and there is hardly
a species in the genus that is really difficult to
grow provided a suitable temperature is main-
tained. To grow such as V. coerulea and V.
teres under the same conditions is to court
ultimate defeat, as the heat required by the
latter is far too much for V. ccerulea. This
kind will thrive well if given a place in a tem-
perature slightly higher than Odontoglossums
require, and being rather a restless species,
must not be dried at any season. It must also
have an abundant supply of fresh air and sun-

growth by exposure to sun and air in autumn,
they get along fairly well in the same house. The
smaller-growing kinds like a position near the
roof, and may be reared in wooden baskets or
small pans, according to convenience. Sphag-
num Moss will form the basis of the compost
for all, being about the best material for their
large fleshy roots to thrive in. Charcoal or
potsherds must be used with it, broken to
various sizes according to the size of the pot
or basket. None of the species like disturb-
ance at the root ; therefore when repotting give
good drainage, and use nothing that can become
sour or cause waterlogging of the compost.
Fresh layers of Moss may, however, with advan-
tage be added yearly, at the same time removing
some of the old and any decaying roots that can
easily be got at, and covering as many as pos-
sible of the air-roots with the new Moss. The
chief insect enemy to Vandas is a small white

Yanda ccerulea in flower. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by
Mr. E. H. Woodall, St. Nicholas House, Scarborough.

light, or it will not flower freely. If an inter-
mediate house is not at command, it may, how-
ever, be very well grown in the cool end of the
Cattleya house, and should be placed near one
of the ventilators. The large-growing species,
such as V. suavis, V. gigantea and V. Bate-
manni, are best grown in large pots on the cen-
tral stages in large roomy nouses. Here the
atmospheric conditions are not so likely to fluc-
tuate as in narrow, low structures, and the
plants, being arranged further from the glass,
need less shading than would otherwise be re-
quired. They must be treated liberally to in-
duce them to grow as quickly as may be into
large specimens, as small pieces never flower
satisfactorily, nor is their full beauty seen until
they attain a large size. Plenty of heat may be
given in the summer to the last-named species,
V. suavis and its ally, V. tricolor, requiring less,
although if pains are taken to consolidate the

I scale, which clings most tenaciously to the
leaves. At the first appearance of this pest the
plants should be looked through and carefully
sponged, going over them a second time about
a fortnight afterwards. This is more important
than at first sight appears, for if once these
insects get a hold on the plants the spongings
will have to be very frequent, and this opera-
tion is in some hands very injurious to the

i foliage, sufficient care not usually being taken
to avoid puncture. Cockroaches, too, are often
troublesome, eating through the roots and
flower-spikes, and doing an immense amount of
mischief. The best way to clear a house of
these is to lay poison about at night near the
plants they infest, making this by using a paste
of flour, lard and sugar, adding thereto a small
quantity of white or pure arsenic. It is hardly
necessary to say that great care is necessary in
handling this dangerous mixture, and on no

account must it be left lying about during the
daytime or entrusted to irresponsible persons.
It is impossible in this note to deal fully with
all the species, but those mentioned below will
make a very interesting collection.

V. AMESIANA has not been in cultivation long,
being introduced by the Messrs. Low and Co.
from India in 1887. It is of the dwarf-growing
section, and has flowers varying in their tints of
rose and pink. A pure white variety, alba, has
also been described. It may be grown in a com-
paratively cool house, but the temperature must
not fall much below 50° at any time. It blossoms
from May to July, and lasts a long time in perfec-
tion.

V. Batemanni frequently grows to a height of
4 feet or 5 feet, and the leaves, which are very
thick and leathery, grow from 18 inches to 24
inches in length. The flowers are produced on long,
erect spikes, and are 2 inches across, golden-
yellow, freely spotted with bright crimson. This
kind must have plenty of heat while growing, but
50° to 55° is quite high enough for it during
winter, or, indeed, for any in the genus. It is a
summer and autumn-blooming species, and was
introduced from the Moluccas about 1844.

V. Bensoni is not a showy kind, but very well
worth growing. It is a native of Burmah, and
was introduced in 18G6 ; like its ally, V. Rox-
burghi, it requires a strong moist heat while
growing. The flowers are about 2 inches across,
and occur on racemes about a foot in length ; the
sepals and petals are yellowish, spotted with red,
the lip rosy-purple, margined with white.

V. cgsrulea (see illustration) is a gem of its
kind, and probably the best instance of a blue-
flowering Orchid. The sepals and petals overlap,
making a full and beautiful flower, the best varie-
ties being quite a decided blue when fully
developed. This grows from 1 foot to 2 feet in
height, and flowers during the autumn months.
It is now fairly common, although for a long time
after its introduction it was very rare and valu-
able. It is a native of the Khasia Mountains,
whence it was introduced in 1869.

V. ccsrulesceks is a spring-flowering Orchid of
great beauty, growing about 18 inches high and
producing erect spikes of pale blue flowers, the
lip deeper in colour than the segments. This
thrives in the Cattleya house suspended in baskets,
and has been in cultivation since 1869. A variety
of this known as Boxalli was introduced some
time after, and is much lighter in colour than the
type, the sepals being nearly white and the lip
deep violet.

V. Hookeriana requires a strong moist heat
and plenty of sunlight while growing. The
flowers are usually produced in pairs upon the
spikes, each being about 2 inches across. These
are creamy-white, more or less spotted with
purple. It was first introduced in a living state
by Messrs. Low and Co. in 1S73, but did not
flower until some ten years afterwards.

V. Kimballiana is a delightful species which
first flowered with the Messrs. Low in 1889 ; it is
not so strong in growth as V. Amesiana, which it
somewhat resembles, the leaves being more cylin-
drical. It does well under cool treatment, and
should be kept well up to the light. The flowers
have a white ground colour with a purplish-
crimson lip.

V. Sanderiana is a grand species, bearing
large racemes of flowers, each upwards of 4h
inches across, mostly of a brilliant rosy lilac shade.
It should be grown in the warmest house, and
likes abundance of atmospheric moisture. It is a
native of the Philippine Islands, and was intro-
duced in 1881.

V. suavis and V. tricolor may be bracketed
as far as treatment, habit, and shape of flowers are
concerned. They are in fact identical in every-
thing except in the ground colour, that of V.
suavis being white, V. tricolor yellow, and as
there are intermediate forms between the two
kinds, this seems hardly enough to warrant their
being entitled to specific rank. The flowers are
all more or less spotted, usually with crimson,
and deliciously fragrant. They were both intro-

146

THE GARDEN.

[March 2, 1895.

dueed from Java in 1S-17, ami are noble and stately
Orchids well meriting a place in the choicest
collections.

V. teres is a remarkable specips of straggling
climbing habit if left alone. The flowers are
very beautiful, and when the plants are properly
treated they are freely produced. It was intro-
duced from Burmah in 1828, and requires a
strong moist heat while growing. The racemes
occur near the apex of the growth and bear from
two to five flower.-". The sepals and petals are
bright rose colour streaked with golden yellow.
Many cultivators are in the habit of cutting the
plants of this species over annually, rooting the
tops in strong heat, so as to obtain dwarfer, more
compact plants which flower freely during the
summer months. H. R.

Orchids from Leeds. — I should deem it a
great favour if you would, through the columns
of The Gardes, say whether any of the flowers
enclosed are special varieties, or only the ordinary
run of the type to which they belong. The
Cattleyas were all imported last season, the C.
Schilleriana very late, whilst the flowers of C.
Triana? are cut from seven different plants, No. 1
having been out a fortnight. The two varieties
of C. amethystoglossa are both carrying good
spikes for imported plants, one ten, the other
fi'teen. The Cypripediums are C. euryandrum,
which, as you will notice, was twin-flowered,
and C. Lathamianum, carrying seven flowers.
The flowers of Odontoglossum nebulosum have
been out some time. — T. Tyson, Roundhay
Mount Garden*, Roundhay, Leeds.

*„* Very good forms all of them, but not valu-
able. Now-a-days varieties must be of unusual
excellence to be better than existing types. — Ed.

Phalsenopsis leucorrhoda {Grower). — This
plant is a supposed natural hybrid between the
lovely variegated-leaved species P. Schilleriana
and P. Aphrodite, and will produce its blossoms
at different seasons of the year according to the
strength of the plant. It is a rare and expensive
kind, and produces a magnificent flower inter-
mediate between the two supposed parents. This
genus requires to be kept in an atmosphere con-
stantly charged with moisture, and if your plant
is in good health I would not advise re-basketing.
If this be necessary, care must be taken not to
break or injure the roots which cling to the old
wood. It does not require any peat, good living
Sphagnum Moss being all that is needed, and this
should be kept in a living condition. — W. H. G.

Lycaste Skinneri alba. — I have recently
noticed one or two fine specimens of this superb
Lycaste, which is certainly one of the most beau-
tiful of all white- flowered Orchids. It also has
the same advantage as the typical plant, of lasting
an exceedingly long time either upon the plant or
in a cut state, providing the blooms are not
sprinkled with water. This pure white form is a
very chaste and lovely flower, and appears to be-
come more plentiful every year, although even at
the present time the true variety is by no means
common, still commanding a high price in the
market.— W. H. G.

Odontoglossum blandum. — A very lovely
species is this, coming from the United States of
Colombia. It grows upon the trunks of trees
which are situated in moist localities at about
6000 feet altitude, and it is stated by different col-
lectors to be in bloom nearly the whole year.
Under cultivation, however, we find that it mostly
produces its blooms during the spring months.
These are borne on a nodding raceme and are
thickly set. They are creamy white, spotted and
blotched with reddish-purple. — W. H. G.

Ada aurantiaca. — This is a fine Orchid for
the cool house, its bright orange-red-coloured
flowers being very useful for making a bright dis-
play during the dull winter and early epring
months. A spike of this recently came from
" S. M.," who states that he has had it in beauty
for several weeks, and how charming it looks
when intermixed with Odontoglossums. This

plant should find a place in every collection on
account of its bright colour and freedom of flower-
ing. It is, moreover, of easy culture, requiring to
be grown in a pot with good drainage and fibrous
peat and Sphagnum Moss, and given exactly the
same treatment as the well-known Odontoglossum
erispum. It is a native of New Grenada, where it
grows at considerable elevation, and produces
arching spikes of orange-vermilion-coloured blos-
soms.— G.

Oncidium concolor. — It is not too soon for
this very bright and useful little species to flower,
and if not kept too warm during the winter months,
will probably bloom about the month of May or
June. G. Smedley inquires if it is a plant worth
growing in a small collection where insignificant
little species are not required. I know of no
better subject than this — in fact it is essentially an
Orchid suitable for all amateurs, requiring but
little heat and only a small amount of room to
grow, and producing freely fine spikes of very
showy flowers. 0. concolor is a compact-growing
little plant, and has been known in this country
for more than fifty years. The pseudo-bulbs are
furnished with a pair of bright green leaves, and
do not exceed both together more than a foot in
height. The spike which appears from the base
at the bulb is very densely set with blooms and
drooping. Small shallow pans are best adapted
for the culture of the plant. These should be sus-
pended near the glass at the coolest end of the
Cattleya house in the winter, but a little more
warmth may be given if required to flower earlier
in the season. Fibrous peat and chopped Sphag-
mum Moss is the best compost ; a few nodules of
charcoal may also be added, and care must be
taken that the drainage is in good order. After
the growths are completed this species should be
kept rather dry, and during the summer the cool
Odontoglossum house will suit it admirably. The
flowers, which are large, are of a soft delicate yellow
in some, whilst others are of a much brighter
shade, and the large flat lip is very conspicuous.
On well-grown examples a spike will often carry
over a dozen of these bright blooms. — W.

VENTILATING ORCHID HOUSES.

At no season of the year is more care necessary
with the ventilation than the present, when
bright bursts of sunshine alternating with cold
drying winds and frosts necessitate those in
charge being always on the alert. Fruit growers
are only too well aware of the mischief caused
to tender Vine or Peach shoots by neglect for
only a few minutes at a critical time, and
although Orchids do not show the results of bad
management in this respect so soon, yet sudden
changes in the atmosphere can have no other
than a prejudicial effect upon the plants. As I
write, it is intensely cold outside, and no doubt
the glass will fall to about 15° during the night,
while at midday it was quite balmy and spring-
like. The pipes have to be well heated at night to
keep the temperature in the warm houses from
falling unduly, and if these are kept close in
the morning the heat goes up with a rush as the
sun rises, the foliage feeling quite hot to the
touch in a very short time. This state of things
is quite wrong and very trying to the plants.
If a little air is given on top soon after the sun
reaches the house, the temperature rises more
steadily, the night moisture is gradually and in
a natural manner dissipated, and a far more
congenial atmosphere produced. This chink of
air is usually sufficient at this time of year with-
out opening the side ventilators, and even this
must be closed soon after midday. If the sun
is bright the houses must be damped rather
freely, but not enough to cause a steamy atmo-
sphere. Except when very cold winds are blow-
ing, the lower ventilators opposite the hot- water
pipes in the Cattleya house should be opened a
little during the day, but closed on cold nights.

This keeps up a constant supply of fresh air to
the plants and does not appreciably lower the
temperature. These ventilators ought always
to be covered with perforated zinc, which pre-
vents a rush of cold air to the plants by breaking
up the current, so to speak. In the cool houses
these ventilators can be kept partly open night
and day, and enough air given at the top of the
house to keep the temperature up to about 00°
in the morning, rising to 65° at closing time.
When the weather is dull and the wind cold,
very little ventilation is required in any of the
houses and the temperature should be kept
about 5° lower than on bright days, too much
fire heat causing a weakly growth, and tending
more than anything else to the propagation of
insects. Air, heat, and moisture must, to use a
familiar expression, go hand in hand. Whenever
a rise in the temperature makes free ventila-
tion advisable, the atmosphere requires to be
replenished with moisture in a like ratio. Too
much heat or moisture and too little air are
quite as bad as the opposite conditions, but a
constantly changing and well-balanced tempera-
ture is one of the most important points in the
culture of these beautiful plants. H. R.

Odontoglossum Alexandres flaveolum. — •
I noticed this very distinct variety in flower upon
a recent visit to the Victoria and Paradise Nur-
series, the plant carrying a fine spike of many
blooms. These were of good form and fine sub-
stance, being entirely without spots on the sepals
and petals, which are of a primrose-yellow colour,
the lip being flushed with creamy yellow and
slightly spotted with chestnut. It is a very hand-
some and distinct form. — W. H. G.

Lycaste lasioglossa. — Although not one of
the most showy Lycastes, this is a distinct and in-
teresting species introduced about twenty years
ago from Guatemala by Messrs. Veitch and Sons,
and requires similar treatment to other members
of this family. The pseudo-bulbs are about 5
inches in length, which, together with the lanceo-
late plicate leaves, give the plant a height of
about -2 feet to 2| feet. The blooms are large, of
good substance, and are borne upon erect scapes
7 inches or 8 inches high. In the flower before me
the sepals are spreading, all being about the same
size and of a uniform dull chestnut-brown, tipped
with green ; the petals are concave, reflexed at
the ends, and of a clear light yellow, and the lip,
which is also yellow, has the front lobe densely
covered with long whitish hairs, which give the
plant a very singular appearance. — W. H. G.

Odontoglossum Rossi albens. — All the

forms of Odontoglossum Rossi are beautiful, be-
ing of dwarf habit, very free-blooming, and easy
to grow. They should be cultivated in quite a
cool temperature and placed close to the glass,
being kept nice and moist all the year through,
when they will grow and flower profusely. The
variety here referred to is one of the most distinct
of this species, and may well be termed the
"albino" of this type. It is by no means a
common plant, but a very nice example is now in
flower in the Victoria Nurseries, Upper Rolloway.
The plant resembles the typical form, but the
flowers are pure white, with a few quite pale green
spots at the base of the petals and a bright yellow
crest on the lip. These individually are of good
size and form a fine contrast to the darker forms.
— W. H. G.

Odontoglossum maculatum. — This is one
of our best known and most useful kinds. It pro-
duces its blooms at different periods of the year,
although usually in the months of March and
April. At the present time a fine form is in
flower at Harrow Weald House, carrying some
good spikes of large blooms, individually about
3 inches across and of good colour. O. maculatum
is a plant that has been known in our gardens for
many years and is a native of Mexico, where it
grows at a high altitude upon the mountains; con-

March 2, 1895]

THE GARDEN.

147

sequently it enjoys cool treatment under cultiva-
tion, and succeeds best in a pot with good drain-
age, with a compost of fibrous peat and Sphagnum
Moss. The plant greatly resembles O. cordatum,
especially in habit and growth. The flowers are
very showy, with brown sepals, barred with green
at the base ; the petals larger and wavy, light
yellow, spotted with brown on the basal half, as is
also the triangular-shaped lip. — W. H. G.

Flower Garden,

VERBASCUMS.

The best Mullein grown in gardens is un-
doubtedly V. phlomoidea, and although an old
introduction, it is only within recent years that

Verbaecum olympicum.

much notice has been taken of it and its great
merits fully recognised. It is a true biennial,
as easy to grow as the common Foxglove, and
equally certain to flower. A plant so noble and
beautiful in lasting bloom should have an im-
portant place in our gardens, and it is one of
the good things that can be grown in quantity
if a packet of seed be sown at the right time.
From early summer till autumn is well advanced
flowers come in succession upon the tall spikes,
and a group or mass makes a picture of lasting
interest ami striking beauty. No soil or situa-
tion apparently comes amiss to it, but, wherever
grown, it should be in a bold free way, not
dotted about at regulation distances along the
border. The Olympian Mullein — a much more
recent introduction — has lately become rather
popular, but it is never quite so good as the
preceding kind, nor capable of producing such
good effects. When in flower it is a remarkably
showy species, and those who see it then are
apt to form too high an estimate of its worth.
It is called a biennial, but it cannot be depended
upon to flower the second year, three and some-
times four years passing before the flower-spike
appears. All this while, however, it is a plant of
much beauty, having noble tufts of silvery,
woolly leaves, which individually are often 3
feet long and 4 inches broad. In flower it
attracts much notice by reason of the tallness
and symmetrical branching of the spike, which
sometimes attains 10 feet in height, and the
multitude of flowers that are open at one time.
They are much smaller than those of V. phlom-

oides, and though exceedingly great in number,
the plant does not last in flower mote than
about three weeks. Further, to do it justice,
it must have more care in choice of situation,
and only grows to its full dimensions and
greatest beauty in deep, warm, well-drained
soils. A very handsome Mullein that merits
more attention in gardens, especially as it is a
true perennial, is V. vernale or Chaixi. In
flower beauty it is identical with and similar to
our native species V. nigrum, but has the
additional advantage of great height, sending
up its noble spikes 0 feet or more. A white-
flowered form of V. nigrum should become
popxilar when better known and more plentiful.
V. phceniceum, about which several notes have
lately appeared, is also a pretty garden plant,
often perennial, but in any case easy to grow
from seed, whilst it embraces a variety of tints,
except yellow, the predominating hue of Mulleins
generally. It is well to bear in mind that the
flowers of this kind droop and wither in the
sun ; therefore in order to enjoy its beauty
throughout the day it should be grouped at a
spot where only the early morning or late
evening sun reaches it. A. H.

LILIUM BROWNI AND ITS VARIETIES.

The beautiful plate which appeared in The
Garden of February 9 will, I feel sure, be
fully appreciated by all Lily lovers, and also the
able article accompanying the same. But with
all due deference to " W. W.," I would submit
the following remarks on the varieties of L.
Browni. Firstly, as to Lilium Browni. By this
I mean the L. Browni, figured as L. japonicum
in The Garden, vol. xxix. ,1886, page 1150, which
is the L. Browni of commerce, so largely grown
and distributed in our gardens. This is un-
doubtedly the Lily introduced by and named
after Mr. Brown, nurseryman, of Slough, about
;x;s,,i' 1KJ!I, Imt how he became possessed of
the same, whether it was a seedling or imported
plant, history does not tell us. Of one thing I
am quite sure, it has not been imported from
China or Japan for many years, if ever, and the
stock in this country and on the Continent is
kept up by propagation ; so on this point and
the following 1 must differ from " W. W."
when he slates that " L. Browni is not a popular
Lily.'' I find it a good doer, succeeding ad-
mirably in a well-drained situation, much
sought after by all Lily cultivators, and con-
sidered by many to be one of our finest hardy
Lilies.

Now with all due respect to M. Franchet,
"W. W.," and other authorities, I would sug-
gest that the Lily described by M. Franchet as
L. Browni in his very interesting paper (The
Garden, vol. xliii., 1893, page 41) to which
" W. W." refers is Lilium odorum of Planchon
or japonicum Colchesteri, introduced into this
country in 1804 and figured in the Botanical
Magazine in 1813, or, as it is now popularly
called, the Japanese Browni, which is largely
imported every year from China and Japan, and
perhaps " W. W." refers to this species when he
speaks of L. Browni as not a popular Lily, for this
form does not succeed so well under cultivation
in this country. Lilium odorum was in culti-
vation many years before L. Browni (Brown)
was heard of ; it is widely distributed over
China and in many parts of Japan, it has a
whitish coloured bulb, the foliage is shorter,
broader, and of a lighter colour than that of L.
Browni ; the flowers when fully expanded are
of a beautiful cream colour, externally splashed
and streaked with rich chocolate-brown. The
colouring greatly depends on the amount of sun

the plant receives. I have seen plants grown
under glass which did not exhibit any signs of
external coloration. M. Franchet describes L.
Browni as "tinged with violet (red-brown) on
the outside." This seems to refer more to L.
cidi num than L. Browni, which latter is wholly
coloured externally with intense reddish brown.
The L. Browni spoken of by Dr. Henry as
growing near Ichang, if I may so suggest, is
probably L. odorum. Last year we flowered
here a very fine specimen, 4 feet high, from a
batch of imported L. Henryi. L. Browni may
be a true species, but surely L. odorum should
be also classed as a distinct and true species,
not as a variety of L. Browni. L. odorum is
found wild in many parts of China and J apan, but,
as before stated, 1 have never heard of nor seen
a collected plant of L. Browni similar to the
form grown in our English and Continental
gardens.

Lilium Browni chloraster and leucanthum
are two very fine Lilies indeed and very dis-
tinct, especially the latter. As to the true L.
japonicum of Thunberg, I hope to have it in
flower this year, or next at latest, the form de-
scribed by M. Franchet as bearing cup-shaped
white flowers. Whether this will turn out to be
Thun berg's L. japonicum is a matter that must
be left to the future to decide.

Colchesti r.

Rout. W. Wallace.

HYACINTHUS AMETHYSTINUS.

This lovely little Hyacinth, which comes from
the south of Europe, is at present rather scarce
in gardens, but it is a precious and very beautiful
kind. It is quite hard)' and a slender graceful
thing compared with the large spiked Hya-
cinths with which everyone is familiar. It
ciimes much later into bloom and its flowers
appear very late in the spring. They last for a
long time and possess a special distinctness by
reason of their clear delicate amethyst-blue
shade. The flower-spikes grow from 9 inches
to 1 foot in height and bear many flowers,
which, though tiny, have a pretty effect if the
plant is grown in a little group or mass rather

Hyacinthus amethystin us.

closely. It is one of those choice things that
merit a special position, such as a nook to itself
at the base of a rock in the rock garden or at
the foot of a wall safe from digging and disturb-
ance. There is a white form, but the greatest

148

THE GARDEN.

March 2, 1895.

beauty belongs to the type itself in possessing a
delightful shade of blue so different from that
of other spring flowers. A. H.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
Annuals.— For general flower garden purposes

annuals may be roughly divided into two classes :
those which, owing to their brief, though brilliant
season, are only suitable for outlying parts of the
garden where duration of flower, coupled with
neat and tidy borders, are not essential features,
and those which for a long sustained and effective
display will vie with the best of the cutting-struck
bedding plants. Again, there is a fairly clear
dividing line between those which should be shown
under cover, pricked off into frames or boxes, and
then transplanted to summer quarters and others
that do best if sown in the open where they are
to remain throughout the season. This latter dis-
tinctive feature does not necessarily follow that
mentioned in the preceding paragraph, because
some of those sown in the open and that are the
least trouble are also some of the most enduring.
The comparatively recent introduction of some
first-rate taller annuals has given a height not
previously obtainable in the family, so that we
now have them from the pegged Phlox Drum-
mondi— that can .be kept at a height of from
3 inches to 4 inches— to the small-flowered Sun-
flower and the varieties of Cosmos bipinnatus, that
run up to 4 feet or 5 feet. The three above-
named, together with Nemesia strumosa, a tho-
roughly good strain of early flowering Stock, of
which Princess Alice may be cited as an example,
and a strong and dwarf strain of Petunias, as
respectively Giants of California and nana com-
pacta, rank among the best of the annuals that
should be sown under glass. The brown and
yellow French Marigolds and the tricolor strain
of annual Chrysanthemums may be included if the
outdoor seed-bed is not of the best and slugs are
likely to be troublesome. Asters are not in the
list, as, in comparison with the things already
named, they have a short flowering season, and are
only admissible in quantity under special circum-
stances when a brilliant, but brief display is re-
quired at a given time. If there is plenty of
house room, all these annuals may be sown in
boxes, the middle of March not being too soon if
an early display is required and there are facilities
for pricking oft' the seedlings into other boxes,
pits or frames. Where house room is limited, a
bed large enough to take a two or three-light
box must be prepared for them, building to a
height of 4 feet and treading firmly and evenly
to avoid rapid sinking of the bed. The aim being
to secure a steady and lasting as opposed to a
violent heat, the bed should mainly consist of good
Oak or Beech leaves, an occasional layer of stable
manure being added thereto as the work pro-
gresses. About 4 inches of soil will be sufficient ;
this should be light, but made fairly firm by
pressure with the spade. Several varieties named
having very fine seeds, the surface ought to be as
fine for these as for Begonias or Gloxinias. For
Petunias and the Nemesia it is advisable to make
a slight depression with a thin pencil, damp the
drills thus made, and shake on a little silver sand
after sowing. The frame should be shaded
slightly if the sun is powerful until the seed has
started to prevent the soil drying out, and as
soon as the young plants are above ground suffi-
cient air given to keep them sturdy. For outdoor
sowing, a good half dozen annuals, bearing in
mind that with these also the first considera-
tion is a long flowering season, would be the
purple and white Mallows, the latest introduc-
tion in the Linarias, the best forms of Godetia
and Gaillardia, the scarlet Linum, and Migno-
nette. It may be noted that the beds for these
should be well dug. It is useless to expect satis-
factory results from poor, hungiy soil and an ill-
prepared seed-bed ; the latter prevents the seed and
plant starting away kindly; whilst if there is no hold

and the flowering season proportionately short-
ened. Having made sure of well-prepared beds,
the principal point is to thin early and fairly
hard, that is in relation to the habit of the diffe-
rent varieties, and a mulching of short manure
will be found beneficial while the plants are in a
young stage.

Prospects.— The advisability of pushing for-
ward in early winter all work in connection with
rearranging and planting herbaceous subjects,
and indeed all planting matters in whichsuch things
figure, was never more apparent than in the present
season when the earth has remained frost-bound
for three weeks (Feb. 15) and all outdoor work is
at a standstill. Even with a break in the weather
it will be some time before one is able to work
the ground, frost having penetrated unprotected
soil rather over 12 inches and gone clean through
heavy mulchings to lay hold of the ground under-
neath. It is, of course, a foregone conclusion
that early flowering plants, early Daffodils, Doro-
nicums, Hepaticas, for example, will be very late,
and I fancy nearly everything except perhaps
autumnal-flowering plants will be affected to a
more or less degree. I notice, now that the snow
is nearly gone, that the points of the foliage
are nipped and scorched, as in Pyrethrums,
and other things are cut back hard to the old
stems, as Snapdragons. In all cases, however, the
damage done is of a trifling nature, and it should
be a strong point in favour of the more extensile
planting of hardy flowers that they come so well
through a winter when the thermometer for seven
or eight nights dropped either to zero or within a
few degrees of that point, and this, too, after
such incentives to a rank sappy growth in the
foliage as were furnished by the wet autumn and
mild early winter. It may be urged that the
power to withstand the most severe weather
would be a natural characteristic of hardy plants,
but it must be remembered that there are some
included in such lists that have by some means
acquired the reputation of possessing a somewhat
tender constitution. If these have come well
through the February of 1S95, they may safely be
reckoned perfectly hardy.

Forced shrubs. — As a place can often be found
for Staphyleas, Ribes, Hydrangeas, Cerasus, and
other similar things that have done service in the
houses, they should be gradually hardened off
until they can be planted out. A season's growth
is secured if the foliage can be preserved intact
without being nipped by premature exposure to
frost or biting winds. Nice little breaks can be
gradually formed of each variety in front of shrub-
beries of larger growth, working in an occasional
clump of evergreen shrubs to relieve the bare
appearance that is a natural result of deciduous
shrubs in quantity through the winter months. If
the shrubs are planted late in spring, so soon as
they are sufficiently hardened a mulching of rather
long manure is advisable, and in the case of
American plants a little special preparation of the
soil. E. Burrell.

Claremoni.

PLANTS FOR DRY ROCKERIES.
Too frequently the accumulations of earth and
stone or clinkered bricks, as seen in many gar-
dens and referred to as "the rockery," are most
unsuitable places for the growth of plants. Those
that really thrive are very few, and those that
exist merely are by no means numerous. Very
often this said rockery was originally a heap of
earth, into which a few stones have been stuck
without thought and without discretion, and, un-
supported by moisture, the plants that are placed
thereon either quickly perish or simply drag
out an existence. The latter fact is probably
due more to planting the wrong things than to
any other cause. In reality there are quite a num-
ber of useful and beautiful subjects that will rlo
well with only a minimum amount of water, even
though they are growing on a sloping bank at an
angle of 45 or more. And what is of equal value,

many of the subjects I shall presently enumerate
ing power inYhe soil the"plants will be short-lived I only need a very little soil in which to grow when

once they are really established. This latter is
perhaps one of the most important items, and to
ensure this planting should be done early in the
autumn wherever possible. By so doing an oppor-
tunity will be afforded the plants to commence
rooting before their season of flowering arrives and
before the soil is rendered too dry for the rooting
process to be a success. For example, it would be
wrong on the face of it to attempt to plant such a
spot in midsummer with the soil already parched
and dry, for at such a time the strongest tufts
could scarcely survive the test. In these ill con-
structed rockeries it is surprising how much
assistance can be given to many plants by merely
planting them a little on one side and by placing
a block of stone over the roots on the more exposed
side. This will keep the soil from becoming so
intensely dry in very hot weather and preserve a
uniform state of moisture and coolness about the
roots that will go a long way towards making the
whole thing successful. I mention this simple
way of dealing with such places because very often
the rain has but little effect and watering may as
well be left alone, for in both instances the water
given only carries with it so much of the dry soil
down the sloping bank and on to the path below.
I have for the past year or two watched the pro-
gress of some plants on raised mounds similar to
those described above, and, seeing many unsuit-
able things perish indiscriminately, suggested
others with better results. Some of the more im- •
portant of these plants may be useful to readers
of The Garden, who will find in the list given
material suitable for furnishing these so-called
rockeries and other bare spots which sometimes
occur in gardens.

Under the circumstances I cannot name in
the first place a genus more worthy as a whole
than the Aubrietia. Of perfect hardiness, dwarf
in stature, and free in growth, these beautiful
spring-flowering subjects quickly form carpet -like
masses, which are smothered for weeks with their
variously coloured flowers. These latter are
mostly shades of blue, lilac, violet-purple and red-
purple hues, all pleasing and effective in their
great spreading masses in spring-time. The ease
with which Aubrietias are increased and the
rapidity that they cover large surfaces are items
distinctly in their favour. A goodly companion
for these may be found in the variegated form of
the Arabis, which will brighten by its foliage
alone even when its white blossoms are faded and
gone. Exceedingly useful, too, are some of the
dwarf Campanulas, especially those of the pumila
and turbinata groups. The former group are
perhaps best, as by placing a few roots beneath a
stone or beside it, spreading them out thinly, they
emerge in all directions in spring-time, and make
a very pretty display in midsummer when little re-
mains to flower. The best kinds are pumila alba and
pusilla. If plants are obtained established in pots,
shake the roots free of soil in planting and spread
them out carefully. In this way a much greater
surface will be furnished than by allowing the
plants to spread from one tuft. A similar method
may be adopted with C. carpatica and its white
variety C. turbinata and others with equally good
results. Not only does this simple contrivance
insure the lives of the plants against drought,
but it also provides the means of making much
out of little ; while numbers of plants may be
utilised which, under ordinary conditions, would
not bear a moment's thought. Another good plant
may be found in Alyssum saxatile compactum. It
provides a sheet of golden yellow blossom which
in spring-time and for the purpose indicated is not
easily surpassed. This may be had in plenty from
seeds. Another yellow-flowered plant may be
found in Cheiranthus alpinus, which just delights
in a comparatively dry rooting medium, and,
given this, is much longer lived. Its heads of
pale yellow flowers are very freely produced in
spring-time. I would like to include the orange-
flowered C. Marshalli, by reason of its rich colour-
ing, though it is not happy in many soils and does
not spread so freely as C. alpinus.

Another yellow-flowered and most suitable sub-
ject may be found in Corydalis lutea, a common

March 2, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

149

plant no doubt, yet exceedingly charming and
graceful withal. It is one of those fine useful
plants that one meets in an old abbey garden.
On the dry bank or slope, in chinks or crevices of
rock, and often emerging from the stone and
Moss-covered steps in some old gardens, with
barely any soil within reach, this little plant
grows freely, and in the border will assume quite
a vigorous growth, flowering abundantly and con-
tinuously for a long time. The same place will
prove a home for some of the Dianthus family,
and especially such kinds as deltoides, c.-esius,
superbus, and others, all of which are very pretty
when in flower and of free growth.

Another important family is the perennial
Candytufts (Iberis), which furnish a wealth of
white blossom during the spring months, the
best kinds being I. corre;efolia and I. semper-
virens. The Silenes, again, are vsry useful for
such spots, notably S. alpestris, S. Schafta?, and
S. maritima fl.-pl. Some of the (Enotheras should
be also included, and of these IE. macrocarpa will
be the best yellow, and <E. taraxacifolia among
those with white flowers. Besides these there
are many more, most of which would prove wel-
come were the}7 but introduced and established.
For instance, Asperula odorata, Saponaria ocy-
moides, Crucianella stylosa coccinea, Veronica
saxatilis and V. pectinata, Euphorbia myrsinites,
Vinca, Coronilla, Helianthemum in variety where
space allowed, Gypsophila cerastioides, Tropao-
lum polyphyllum, many Saxifrages of the crus-
taceous section, also Sedums and Sempervivums
in variety. Nor must we overlook the value of
Thymus lanuginosus for such positions. It is
indeed an invaluable plant, apparently delighting
in the sunniest and most exposed positions, and
spreading out rapidly into broad woolly carpets
that are pleasing at all times. The plants here
given by no means exhaust the list of useful and
beautiful subjects, while it contains sufficient
variety to provide a lengthy season of bloom in
spots too frequently barren and unsightly.

E. J.

TENDER V. HARDY PLANTS IN THE
FLOWER GARDEN.— I.
It matters not into what kind of garden we go
(from January to the end of May), whether it be
large or small, the bedding plants — so-called — are
more often than not an encumbrance in the true
sense of the word. An excessive use of tender
plants during the summer in the flower garden in-
volves not only a vast amount of labour which
might be turned to a better advantage, but it is
oftentimes the fertile source of delay in, and what
is worse still when the labour is all too limited,
the ultimate neglect of work which in the end
would give in nearly every instance a far more
satisfactory return. Take a case or two as ex-
amples of this. If it be a small garden, with one
or two hands employed, it is an invariable rule
when a gardener takes an interest in his work to
have every nook and corner occupied. This is al-
together praiseworthy ; but take entire stock of
the tender plants being prepared for the flower
garden and no:e what an advantage it would be
if these were either dispensed with entirely or
reduced to a minimum. Probably early Cucum-
bers and Melons are grown. This fact, in order
to make the utmost use of the opportunities, is
taken advantage of for the propagation of plants
for bedding. In some instances these will foster
such insect pests as red spider, also the green and
black fly. Any grower of Melons does not need to
be told of the nuisance caused by the last-named
plant pest. Later on overcrowding is the rule
until the happy release comes and the plants are
in their summer quarters. Turning to larger gar-
dens, we generally find it to be the rule to encum-
ber the fruit houses with the tender bedding plants
as the readiest method of getting over the diffi-
culty. No one will, I think, venture to say that
it is desirable to have the fruit houses, in what-
ever stage they may happen to be, in such an
overcrowded condition. The construction of the

houses either facilitates such a process or works
in an opposite direction. The necessary work to
Vines, for instance, has in some cases to be done
under difficulties. At the same time the over-
crowded condition renders fumigation more need-
ful than it would otherwise be. When an exces-
sive number of tender bedding plants has to be
propagated in large establishments and the room
at disposal is not at all adequate to meet such a
demand, the plants themselves not unfrequently
are but ghosts of what they should be. Again,
in large gardens there is, where the glass is exten-
sive, quite enough work in other ways than to be
overburdened with bedding plants, causing an
amount of labour in shifting from one quarter to
another that can ill be spared. I must say that 1
think there is already an improvement going on,
however. As in medicine one drug is made to
operate against another, so in gardening the same
thing is in a measure being carried out, in some
cases, perhaps, all unconsciously, but none the
less so. I allude to the increased growth of the
Chrysanthemum as a case in point. In taking up
the culture of this, the "queen of the autumn,"
no one who is a gardener has, I fancy, had addi-
tional assistance afforded him. The amount of
time required has had to be obtained by "robbing
Peter to pay Paul," as the saying goes, and if the
first-named does in any case represent tender
bedding plants, so much the better, in my opinion,
are the results. In the old-fashioned days before
so many tender bedding plants were used all the
work could be begun and finished in May, the
houses at the same time being relieved of the stock
required much earlier than has been the case since ;
this, of course, made it much better for other
things.

Bedding Plants up to and or a Quarter of a
Centum ago.

Reverting for a short space to the plants of that
period, it will be remembered by many that Gera-
niums were then all-important features, planting
. n massi of distinct colours being the prevailing
fashion. Verbenas were also about that time and
for some years previously in all their glory ; so also
were the shrubby Calceolarias and the old form of
Ageratum, tall in growth. Of foliage plants then
grown, the variegated Geraniums were the most
important, the silver variegated and the golden
being largely depended on ; the bronzes and the
tricolors were also steadily coming into use more
extensively. Coleus Verschaffelti as well as
[resine Herbsti were likewise being tried as
foliage plants (along with Centaurea candidissima
and Ferilla nankinensis, speaking from memory).
What is now popularly known as sub-tropical
gardening had its birth near about the same time
under the elder Gibson when at Battersea Park.
I well remember the sensation that it caused when
first it was carried out on an extensive scale there.
Thence onwards a diversion was made from the
ordinary run of b dding plants, but these, instead
of being of hardier character, were, on the
whole, much more tender, whilst at the same
time they took more room, relatively speak-
ing, andj more heat also whilst stored under
glass. Viola cornuta, one of the forerunners
of the bedding Violas of the present day,
was then popular ; this was a welcome addi-
tion, being a comparatively hardy plant. Rollis-
son's Unique Geranium had already gone out of
fashion, good plant that it is still in many ways.
The large number of Geraniums then grown occu-
pied a deal of useful space, more so probably than
any other kind of bedding plants ; instead of
diminishing, it increased as new varieties were
introduced. Border plants of the same period
were much more limited than at the present day.
By these I mean those plants that are hardy or
tolerably so. Then we had the Hollyhock in its
full beauty, it is true, the disease to which it is
now subject not giving growers any trouble.
Hardy herbaceous plants had not come to be
known as at the present day, their value then
being an unknown quantity to a large extent.
The borders of that time were more often than
not occupied just for the summer months with

lines of tender bedding plants, being commonly
known as "ribbon" borders. More often than
not these, when the plants were cut down with
frost, were left destitute until the following May
— not a desirable feature, certainly. There was
about the same time a tendency to enlarge flower
beds, or at any rate to make them larger than
was really desirable. But, on the other hand, the
hitherto prevailing fashion of grouping the flower
beds with only paths between them was already
going out of fashion, being substituted for others
on Grass. It was rather more than twenty-five
years back that Nesfield introduced his style
of laying out flower garden designs, the
outlines being worked in Box edging with the
pathways intersected, thus forming separate
blocks. Into these narrow paths were usually put
coloured gravel, shingle, slate, &c. This style
was introduced, if I remember rightly, into the
gardens at South Kensington during the early
days of the Royal Horticultural Society. To use
an American saying, however, " it did not take
on " extensively, and in my opinion it was a good
thing that it was so. It had no real artistic merit
to recommend it ; in fact, it was a burlesque at
flower gardening more than anything else. In
order to get the best view of one of these designs
it was necessary to ascend to the roof of the
nearest building and then look down upon it.
The beds under this system were small and nar-
row, save the central parts, which were chiefly
circles. I once had charge of one of these designs,
but never found it to produce a satisfactory effect.
I would much prefer an old Dutch garden to one
of these geometrical eccentricities.

Bedding plants of more recent tears. — One
of the greatest innovations in bedding plants
within the past quarter of a century has been the
introduction of the carpet bedding system, which
is, however, now declining, and that to the relief
of many a gardener who has had an experience of
the time taken up, firstly, in propagation and
after-preparation ; secondly, in planting out, and,
lastly, in the extra amount of labour involved in
keeping tin- beds in order during the summer
months. These beds, so to speak of mosaic work,
are very well as specimens of enduring patience,
as well as of the adaptability of certain plants for
the purpose, but the extent to which the system
prevailed in due course operated against itself
without a doubt. Carpet bedding in all but the
most favoured of situations cannot be considered
as of long duration. It is rarely that a large
amount of it is finished before the second week in
June (in fact, I have more than once seen it still
hanging about towards the end of the month),
and before the following September is ended there
is danger of injury to such tender plants asAlter-
nantheras. Two thirds or more of the year are
thus taken up with housing and propagation.
Does it pay? I have personally had a weakness,
if I may term it such, for the grouping together
of succulent plants after the method of carpet
bedding, but less formal in character. The various
shades of green, of grey and other neutral tints
form a happy combination, but I should not advise
the extension on a la rue scale, the one redeeming
feature being that must of the tilings so used are
tolerably hardy, whilst others are quite so. Sub-
tropical gardening, already alluded to, was the
forerunner of the carpet bedding system, and it
has largely survived it ; at least 1 have noted it to
be more prominent in many places. Compared
with the former the latter makes a better show
for the same amount, or even less, of labour ex-
pended. The system of giving relief to carpet
beds by using plants of light growth affords a
welcome change, these dot plants, so to speak,
taking off the otherwise flat appearance. The
great interest at one time taken in the tricolor
Geraniums has greatly waned ; these have had to
give place to even more tender subjects. The one
redeeming feature amongst bedding of more recent
years has been the welcome introduction of the
tuberous Begonia into the flower garden. Some of
us no doubt can recall the time when B. bplivien-
sis, B. Pearcei, B. rosieflora and B. Veitchi
were first introduced into commerce. These

150

THE GARDEN

lMarch 2, 18fc5.

species were the forerunners of the splendid
strains of tuberous Begonias now in cultivation,
and if the Messrs. Veitch had never introduced
any other plants than these or raised other hybrids,
there would have been in these facts alone sufficient
to hand their name down to posterity. I am fully
persuaded that the tuberous Begonia will con-
tinue to be one of the finest features in the flower
garden for many years to come. Some may say,
perhaps, that they are tender plants, but I do not
consider them as such to nearly the same extent
as many other things, whilst they have one great
redeeming feature in that they do not take up
any room under glass during the winter months ;
nor need they do so in the spring to any great
extent, for the less amount of coddling they receive
the better will be the after results. These Begonias
seem to adapt themselves to so varied localities ;
they are grown well in the south of England, and
so they are in the north as well as across the
border. I have never seen them luxuriating any-
where to such a degree as in the Lake districts of
Cumberland and Westmoreland. Here they were
to all intents and purposes quite at home, being
one mass of healthy growth and flowers. I saw
them thus last July, which proves that they can be
got into good condition sufficiently early to secure
a prolonged display even away in the north. The
raising of young plants from seed cannot be con-
sidered a difficult matter, nor do these for the
first season, until fit to plant out, occupy much
space under glass.

I have already drawn attention to the dotting
system amongst carpet bedding plants. Its ex-
tended use during the past few years in other
descriptions of bedding out has been a welcome
innovation. This mixed system can be carried
out to great advantage without having recourse
to tender plants in any large amount. It has
also one decided point in its favour, viz., the
plants forming the undergrowth can grow away
as they choose without much attention being
given to them. I have noted with satisfaction the
increased use of Fuchsias in the flower garden,
the sturdy-growing sorts of the present day thus
showing to good advantage. Several of the spe-
cies are also admirably adapted for the same
purpose. F. gracilis, also known under the name
of F. decussata, should be taken more note of.
I have seen it grown as a herbaceous plant in
the open border for years together. Sweet-scented
flowers or plants have hardly maintained the
position which their merits claim for them for
several years past ; for instance, we see all too
little of the Scented Verbena and the Geraniums
well known for their fragrance. These no doubt
have been supplanted by more showy subjects.

The present day flower garden. — I have
noted with pleasure in several instances an in-
creasing amount of attention being turned to
really hardy plants. This is as it should be. It
should indeed be the chief aim to secure more
permanent plants of characteristic features ; less
dependence will then be placed upon tender
plants. A good number of gardeners, and I
fancy their employers also, are beginning to tire
of the bedding-out system as of late carried on.
I know as a fact that this is so in some instances,
more particularly where it has hitherto been
adopted in an excessive degree. On all sides we
now hear, if not of actual reductions, at any rate
of a tightening of the purse-strings, and if any
economy has to be further put into practice,
where can it be done more effectually than by
dispensing with the more tender and relying upon
the more hardy plants ? I hope the massing of
individual colours in large beds, and the increase
still further by too much repetition of one given
kind, has nearly died out. The sooner this system
has a decent burial, the better for all concerned.
No artist would, I think, choose as a foreground
to his picture a position which embraced within
his vision a mass of scarlet or of pink in an exces-
sive degree. A mere blaze of colour is not real
beauty, whilst it must almost invariably pall
upon tjie taste ere long, from the simple fact that
it lacks variety, if not from an}7 other reason.
What possible advantage there can be in filling

the flower beds with such an excessive amount of
any one kind of plant I cannot conceive. The
return to hardier plants (for at one time they
were the chief factors in the flower garden) should,
in my opinion, receive every encouragement. It
is not a case in which there is any scarcity of
material that can be turned to a good account.
The extended culture of the Carnation and allied
subjects is worthy of all that can be said in their
favour. The same applies to the Rose. Take, for
instance, a bed of La France ; what is there more
beautiful or more attractive in the truest sense
of the word ? Such a prolific flowering Rose as
this may with advantage be grown by the dozen.
There is, I think, less formality in the flower
garden than was the case in bygone years. This,
too, is a welcome change, and such a fact ought
to be taken into account and be made the most
of to introduce plants of hardier constitution.
The increased attention to the culture of hardy
herbaceous plants is a noteworthy feature. This
has been steadily taking root in most gardens,
and is still gaining more adherents. Another
source which has not so far been made enough of
is that of the hardy variegated trees and shrubs,
as well as others possessing distinctive features
of their own. Then, again, there is a deal yet to be
made of the hardy Bamboos and Grasses, which are
most appropriate in connection with water scenery.
We see a good quantity, for instance, of Eulalia
japonica variegata and E. jap. zebrina in pots, but
they are quite as well fitted for planting out per-
manently. The hardy or semi-hardy Palm,
Chamwrops excelsa, is well worthy of extended
culture. Bulbous plants, too, of all kinds are be-
ing planted more extensively ; this is a step in
the right direction. The Ivy-leaved Geraniums
of the present day are of essential service in the
flower garden for vases and baskets as well as for
beds ; they do not look quite so prim and formal
when used for the latter purpose as do the zonal
varieties. Their best places, however, are in vases
and baskets. The earlj'-flowering race of Chry-
santhemums are making their way for bedding
purposes, thus adding to the variety. Select
strains of annuals receive more notice than they
did, and they are well worthy of it. Phlox 1 )rum-
mondi, Intermediate and Ten-week Stocks, Mari-
golds (French), and the Tagetes, Asters, and
Sweet Peas are instances of this. None of these
things give much trouble in the raising or after
culture. For sub-tropical gardening there is now
a fairly good choice without having recourse to
the very tender plants raised from seed. The
Giant Hemp (Cannabis gigantea), the Giant Fennel
(Ferula gigantea), and the Blue Gum (Eucalyptus
globulus) are cases in point. The dwarf race of
Cannas (Crozy's new dwarf hybrids) are proving
themselves to be very useful plants. Of miscel
laneous annuals which last in beauty for a long
period there is also a good choice. Linum grandi-
florum coccineum (a variety of Flax) I have found
to do well both in hot and dry as well as cooler
and moist seasons. The blue, the crimson, and the
scarlet varieties of the Anagallisareexcellent for dry
situations. In a warm spot Alonsoa Warscewiczi
compacta thrives well. Another pretty and all-
too-much neglected annual is Nemophila insignis.
Of Nemesia strumosa Suttoni I am disposed to
think most favourably; the past season gave it a
severe trial. This year, as during 1892, I hope to
see it again in its best condition. Amaranthus
caudatus (Love-lies-bleeding) is in all respects a
grand annual, being well adapted for associating
with plants of sub-tropical character. Take a
large bed, for instance, as an example of what may
be done with a few packets of hardy or half-hardy
annuals. There is the Giant Hemp, the taller
Sunflowers, the Blue Gum, and the Amaranthus
in question, to which Cineraria maritima might
be added as well as the Chilian Beet and Salvia
argentea. The major portion of these may be
sown upon the spot, the only exceptions be-
ing the Blue Gum and the Cineraria. Other
things which never need much room under
glass are the Chama'peuce in variety ; < iaura
Lindheimeri, a hardy perennial, but one that is
just as good if treated as an annual. Grevillea

robusta is a useful plant along with Acacia lo-
phantha ; both should be grown where much bed-
ding has to be done. These are best raised in
heat. Salvia patens does equally as well if raised
from seed as by lifting the old roots ; in many
places, however, it will be safe in the ground for
several days at a stretch provided it is not a wet
subsoil. It is a splendid plant for intermixing
with other things. The forms of Golden Feather
need not take much room in the houses ; it is a
handy plant, but one that is often abused by too
excessive use. Turning to biennials and peren-
nials, the Canterbury Bells (Campanula calycan-
thema vars. ) at once claim our notice ; so do the
beautiful forms of Columbine (Aquilegia chrysan-
tha, A. glandulosa, and other hybrids being fine
subjects). The Antirrhinum appears to be some-
what out of fashion, but it is none the less a useful
plant. The very fine forms of the Gaillardia are
most certainly an acquisition to any garden. Lo-
belia cardinalis is a plant worthy of more atten-
tion than it often receives. The Red Winter
Cherry (Physalis Alkekengi) makes a pretty dis-
play in the autumn. J. H.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1003.

THE THUNBERGIAS.

(with a coloured plate of t. grandiflora

VABS.*)

A coloured plate of the ordinary form of Thun-
bergia granditiora was given in The Garden,
May 27, 1893, and in the present plate this kind
is shown on the left, the two most conspicuous
blooms being those of its white- flowered variety,
which is very uncommon in cultivation. Th.un-
bergia granditiora is a vigorous growing stove
climber that will under liberal treatment soon
cover a considerable space and then bloom with
great freedom. The leaves of this species are
about (i inches long and hastate in shape, while
the flowers, which are from 3 inches to 4 inches
across, are of a pale blue, lined with a deeper
tint, with the interior of the throat almost
white. This Thunbergia is a very common
plant in India, from whence it was introduced
into this country in 1820. AtKew it is quite at
home in the Palm house, and has been an ob-
ject of great beauty there as well as on the roof
of the house devoted to the Victoria Regia. The
white variety I have not seen elsewhere than at
Kew, whence it was introduced from India three
or four years ago. Being equally vigorous and
free-flowering with the type, it forms a good
companion plant to it, and fordraprug or festoon-
ing the roof of a large structure these two Thun-
bergias are among the very best subjects for such
a purpose. T. grandiflora flowers continuously
for a considerable time, often from early summer
till the autumn.

T. laurifolia — a good deal in the way of the
preceding — was also the subject of a coloured
plate in The Garden for September 25, 1S86.
The most marked difference is in the foliage,
which is ovate in shape and, as suggested by
its specific name, somewhat like that of a Laurel.
It is equally free growing and free flowering with
T. grandiflora, and, in common with that species,
needs a large structure for its full development.
It is also a native of India and was introduced in
1S56. Besides the specific name of laurifolia it is
also known under that of Harrisi. All of the
above may be readily propagated by cuttings of
the young growing shoots taken in the spring.
For this purpose weak or medium shoots should
be chosen in preference to the very strong ones.

•Drawn for The Garden by H.'G. Moon in the
Royal Gardens, Kew. Lithographed and printed by
Guillaume Severeyns.

-Si^w • z- Kssm

W

N8

.4.

March 2, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

151

T. alata. — While a large structure is necessary
for the development of the Thunbergias men-
tioned above, this occupies but little space, and it
may also be grown in less heat than the others.
Though a perennial, it is often referred to as an
annual, and succeeds well treated as such, the
seeds being sown in early spring, and the plants
so obtained will flower the following summer.
There are several varieties of this differing from
each other in the colour of their blossoms, but all
alike in other respects. Among them are white,
yellow, orange with a dark eye, white with the
same, a self-coloured orange, and others. This
Thunbergia may be used for many purposes where
small-growing free-flowering climbers are admis-
sible. It is also a capital subject for hanging
baskets, and in a greenhouse temperature it will
during the summer flower well.

T. FBAGKAS5, which at one time Messrs. Veitch
used to grow so well, is a slender-growing climber,
with oblong shaped leaves cordate at the base
and about 3 inches long. The flowers are 1|
inches in length, pure white and borne in great
profusion for a considerable time.

Included now-a-days in the genus Thunbergiaare
the plants at one time known under the generic
names of Meyenia and Hexacentris, the most
commonly met with of these being Meyenia orecta,
which forms a much-branched bush, whose
purplish-blue blossoms, lit up by an orange
coloured throat, are borne for many months of the
year. It is a native of West Africa, and was in-
troduced in 1857.

T. mtsokensis, which used to bear the generic
name of Hexacentris, is a very striking subject
when in bloom. The flowers, which are borne in
long pendulous racemes, are of a peculiarly curved
shape, and in colour red and yellow.

For a more detailed account of the genus
Thunbergia the reader may refer to The Garden
September 25, 1886, when the coloured plate
of T. laurifolia was published. H. P.

The Week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Latest Seakale. — The later a supply of Seakale
can be kept up this season the better, all early
crops being later than usual, and a scarcity
amongst vegetables generally in early summer be-
ing inevitable. Where old stools, covered some
time ago with pots and leaves are commencing to
grow, and there still remain in the open ground
any yearling crowns, every other row may be
taken up and forced, or laid in under a north
wall and covered with a foot of leaf-mould to
come on gradually, and the crowns in the remain-
ing rows covered with tlower-pots and mounded
over with soil from the intervening spaces. Thus
treated, growth will be very gradual, and a supply
afforded after the latest litter-covered permanent
beds have been cut over. Some growers earth up
their latest batches with ashes or leaf-mould, but
the former often make the Kale dirty if the
weather is wet, and through both the ashes and
leaf-mould growth often pushes, and, becoming
green from exposure, is hardly fit for the dining-
table. Where roots from forced crowns have been
cut into lengths for cuttings and have not the ad-
vantage of frame protection, but are laid in under
walls, they must be examined after the thaw, as
the soil often sinks, leaving them insufficiently
shielded against later frosts. Nothing surpasses
leaf-mould for covering, as it is warm and en-
courages early sprouting from the callused por-
tions, and being porous allows the rain to pass
away freely. Those who have not yet tried the
Lily White variety should do so this season. It
is especially useful for successional work, and is of a
remarkably delicate colour and good flavour. The
ordinary variety is best for early forcing, as it
responds more quickly to heat. Ground for the
reception of root cuttings to produce crowns for

early forcing next year, and which will be planted
out in April, should bo prepared as soon as possi-
ble to allow of settling. As a rule, I do not ad-
vise much rich manure to be dug in for this
batch, spent Mushroom manure being preferable,
several waterings with liquid manure during the
summer being given. A warm sunny aspect
should also be given. Strong manure, which in-
duces a prolonged growth, is more suitable for
batches which are not to be forced so early.

Eschallots. — The sooner in the monih the plot
intended for these can be got into a dry enough
condition to allow of drills 3 inches deep being
drawn the better, as if once covered with soil
slight frost will not hurt them, and Eschallots
prefer a long season of growth. As a rule this
crop is grown under favourable conditions be-
tween rows of fruit trees or close by the margins
of walks where the soil lacks richness. It is as-
tonishing to what size individual bulbs of Eschal-
lots will attain to if given a rich soil and sunny
position. If the rows are about 1 foot apart and
the bulbs themselves 6 inches, a mulch can then
be given during dry weather, and overhead
waterings of liquid manure occasionally. On
heavy soils it is well to plant on raised beds, in-
corporating sufficient opening material to prevent
basal rot and hand-weeding the beds during sum-
mer, as in the case of Onions. Mulching in that
case must not be practised, but broadcast spiink
lings of some good rich fertiliser applied twice
during the summer and in showery weather.

Jerusalem Artichokes. — Where these were
not lifted by December and stored the late ex-
treme frost will probably have proved too much
for the tubers. The sooner in March the young
offsets which were separated from the eatable
portion when lifted are planted the better. The
ground need not be very rich, as if over-stimulated,
tall stout stems and a superabundance of foliage
follow at the expense of the crop. If, however,
they have to be planted on the old site, good
manure may be used, as overgrowth need not be
feared. Sufficient room should be allowed be-
tween the rows to allow of the sun's rays gaining
admission, from 1"> inches to IS inches being a
good distance and 9 inches between each tuber.

Globe Artichokes. — In many places these will
have entirely succumbed, especially where mulch-
ing was not given in time or where this consisted
of manure in a too advanced stage of decay. In
a former calendar I advised an examination an d a
renewal of the protecting litter where necessary.
This must now be removed, leaving only a small
quantity round the bottom. All decayed leaves
and stems should also be removed and the soil
pricked over with a five-tined fork, some approved
fertiliser being afterwards applied. Where blanks
have occurred they must be made up with offsets
from the parent stools. Seedlings are, as a rule,
useless. Any offsets that were severed from the
old stools and potted up in autumn, being since
then protected by frames, may be planted out on
well-manured ground towards the middle of the
month and afterwards mulched with short litter.
Where there is plenty of room to spare 6 feet is
not too far apart for Artichokes.

Tripoli Onions. — Early in the new year 1 ad-
vised going over beds of winter Onions and firming
all those which were loosened by the high winds.
Those who did so will now find the benefit of the
practice. I have been looking over our own to-
day and find that those most damaged by frost
are loose at the base, being quite soft and decayed
at that point. Rows that were only moderately
thinned in autumn may now have their final
thinning, those drawn out being planted on well-
prepared ground in rows 1 foot apart and 6 inches
apart in the rows. These will be rather later than
the bulbs not thinned and form a good succession.
Where young Onions are in demand for salading,
a short row or two may well be left unthinned,
these being drawn as required. I find the Trebon
a capital Onion to sow in autumn, as it stands
well in time of severe frost ; indeed, better than
most of the Tripoli section ; bulbs in well in July |

and is of fine mild flavour. As soon as transplant-
ing is completed the Dutch hoe should be put
through the beds and a moderate application of
soot and guano given.

Spring Onions. — In many instances the sowing
of this important crop will be late this season, but
the very first chance muse be taken to get in the
seed. Where the ground was prepared early in
the year the principal preparation will consist in
well scuffling the surface to the depth of several
inches. This is best effected by five-tined forks.
In addition to the soot incorporated at trenching
time another good coating may be laid on before
scuffling is commenced. This will aid in warding
off attacks of the dreaded grub. By no means
tread on the ground when in a wet or sticky con-
dition ; better by far wait a week or ten days
longer. Where the ground has now to be pre-
pared I would advise a departure from the ordinary
method of trenching. Take out an opening
to the desired depth at one end of the plot,
wheeling the soil to the opposite end, and after
spreading on a good thickness of semi-rotten
manure, soot and wood ashes, proceed to throw
forward the soil into the opening, well mixing in
the ingredients as the work proceeds. By this
means the Onions get the benefit of the manure
from their infancy, which is just what they re-
quire. Although Onions require a firm surface,
many mistakes are made in solidifying the ground.
I have sometimes used the garden roller on light
soils with advantage, but on heavy ones the prac-
tice may be ruinous, as the surface is so sealed up
that neither air nor heat can penetrate, and where
the bed is on an incline rain often runs away to
waste instead of entering the soil. As a rule I
prefer thorough treading to any other method,
this being first done after the ground is levelled
and before sowing the seed, repeating it when
this is completed and treading first lengthways
and afterwards crossways. A tine day should be
chosen for sowing, the drills being drawn and
allowed to stand an hour or two to dry before
sowing. A foot apart is a good distance for the
rows, although where ground can be spared 15
inches is a better distance. Thick sowing
is ruinous, as during thinning so many of the
seedlings are loosened, and never do so well
after. This year, however, owing to the unsatis-
factory condition of seeds in general rather thicker
sowings ought to be made. Sowing completed, a
covering of wood ashes should be given before the
drills are again filled in. For early use the smaller
bulbing varieties, such as Nuneham Park, Bed-
fordshire Champion, and Main-crop, are prefer-
able, while such as Ailsa Craig, The VVroxton,
and Cranston's Excelsior, which continue to grow
on later in the season, are all good sorts. Where
Onions are preferred to Shallots for pickling, the
small Silver Skin is about the best to grow for the
purpose. These at thinning time may be left
almost touching one another. If any spring va-
rieties are being raised in heat for producing
exhibition bulbs and the ground has not yet been
prepared, it must be done at once. About the
middle of the month any bulbs of choice varieties
intended for seed should be planted out in square
plots, so that they can be supported as growth
proceeds.

Celery trenches. — These may be taken out as
soon as opportunity offers, as then the interven-
ing spaces can be utilised for planting out such
things as Lettuce, Cauliflower, and Cabbage
raised in heat. The manure also has then a
chance to get into a good condition before the
Celery is planted, supposing it to have been green
when dug in. There is a prevailing idea that
too much or too strong manure cannot be given
to Celery, but this is a mistake, as a gross, sappy
growth at the start means the same at the finish,
such being prone to disease and rot and entirely
void of flavour. I have had excellent results
from the use of Mushroom manure, this inducing
a hard and medium growth, which admits of
being fed at intervals without the least fear of
evil results. Wherever practicable plant in nar-
row trenches capable of holding only one row,
these being better in every way than wider ones

152

THE GARDEN

LMaech 2, 1895.

for holding two, three, or more rows. In case of
scarcity of' ground wide trenches are unavoidable.

J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.
Melons. — For early forcing of Melons I advise
pot culture, and to get the best results have strong
plants at the start, which should by this date be
well up the trellis. They will soon require stop-
ping to induce lateral growth. With pot plants
it is not well to lose the first show of fruits after
the stopping, as perhaps only two or three fruits
may appear on the side or lateral growths. Where
early fruits are desired two fruits will be better
than four smaller ones a month later, and there
will be no loss, as the crop, if cleared off quickly,
will give room for a later one which will give a
greater weight of fruit. If the plants have plenty
of bottom-heat there will be less difficulty in swell-
ing the fruits. Failing bottom heat by hot-water
pipes, it is well to add new fermenting material to
the old as soon as a good set is secured. As growth
increases food may be given at every alternate
watering in the way of tepid liquid manure and
the surface roots top-dressed with rich soil and
manure. More care will now be necessary to pre-
vent cracking or decay of stem so prevalent with
these plants. Some varieties are much worse
than others in this respect. Those who have poor
houses often suffer, and specially when a large
body of manure is used. I find that the plants
sutler much less when grown in pots if these latter
are on a firm base. With careful watering and
keeping the stems dry a sturdy growth results, and
should decay appear cover the affected part with
finely powdered charcoal with a small quantity of
fine sulphur. Temperatures may be raised, that
is as soon as a good set is obtained, 70° at night
in mild weather being allowed and 5° to 10" higher
by day. On cold, windy, sunless days 75" may be
the maximum, as it is not wise to overheat the
pipes. As we of ten get brilliant sunshine for a
tew hours daily this month, allow the thermometer
to run up freely, as warmth by sun-heat is most
beneficial. Give air sparingly and close by 1 p.m.
to get full benefit of sun-heat.

Succession' Melon crops. — Many cannot spare
space for the earlier plants advised above, and
commence to grow their first crop at the end of
February or early in March, thus securing strong
plants. Seedlings can be raised with less diffi-
culty now than earlier in the year. Sow the seed
in small pots, which should be placed in bottom-
heat, sowing a couple of seeds in a pot and
removing all but the strongest. For early summer
use select a thin-skinned variety with a sturdy
habit, not a long-jointed kind, as I find that the
latter are not so reliable. For this purpose such
varieties as Gunton Orange, Beauty of Syon,
Blenheim Orange, the old Golden Perfection, and
Eastnor Castle are noted for their free setting and
early fruits ; but in these days, when most growers
have their own selections, it may be out of place
to advise as to any kind, as the varieties are so
numerous. If quality in these fruits be the aim
of the grower, he will do well to keep to one kind
in a house, as these fruits are fertilised so readily
by insects that they get much mixed. A good
Melon soon deteriorates when others are grown with
it. Those who have modern Melon houses will
not need much advice as regards the welfare of
the crop. When the plants are started and due
attention is paid to temperatures, there is less
trouble than earlier in the year. The bed or root-
ing material should be prepared when the seed is
sown, as then the soil will be in suitable condition
for planting. Melons like a heavy loam or clayey
soil, but not in great quantities, the best results
being secured by a small root space, with liberal
surface supplies of food, a narrow ridge or heap to
each plant. If the bottom-heat be manure, I
would advise having slate or tiles of some kind
under the soil that is on the manure, as this pre-
vents the roots going into the manure. The soil
when placed in position should be made firm, and
plant at 30 inches apart. Plant firmly, staking
and watering sparingly at the start. Also syringe

freely as growth is made, and stop the main
shoots when the plants have reached the space
desired or at the top of the trellis. Keep them
free of growths up the stem til! the trellis is
reached, stopping as soon as they appear. As the
lateral growth forms after the leader is stopped,
tie in those well laden with fruit and stop at the
third or even the second joint if the fruits are
close to the plant, and endeavour to set the first
fruits that show, treating as advised for early
plants.

Early Strawberries in pots. — The early
plants placed indoors in December or early
January will now be at a critical stage. Some of
the Vicomtesse H. de Thury section will be in full
bloom and others just on the point of opening.
Plants that have set their flowers should be re-
moved to shelves as soon as sufficient fruits are
set ; indeed, they may be transferred just before
they flower, as then there is less check. A drier
atmosphere can be maintained and the flowers can
be readily fertilised, this latter being done about
mid-day when the pollen is dry. By removal to
shelves with a freer circulation of air the stalk
lengthens and the plants absorb more moisture.
As soon as from nine to twelve fruits are set it is
well to give more warmth and air, especially early
in the day. When the sun is bright give tepid
liquid manure freely and thin early, as the sooner
those fruits left to mature are given all the energies
the plants possess they will be larger and of
better shape. As regards the number of fruit
each plant should carry, much depends upon the
strength of the plants, the variety, and if forced
hard, from eight to ten fruits are ample if size and
quality be desired. A few of the most forward
plants of Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury may be
given a warmer house than is usually advised, as
this variety forces well in a Cucumber or Melon
house on a shelf if syringed overhead freely, and
a dish or two of fruits in advance of the first
lot brought on more slowly will be appreciated.
The above variety is one of the best to force hard
if the fruits are set before placing in a forcing pit.
When the early forced plants are colouring freely
they well repay removal to a cool drier house.
I have a small house devoted to these fruits for
finishing, and the flavour when treated thus is
little inferior to fruit gathered from the open ;
besides, there is a great gain, as the fruits keep
longer and swell better. As the ripening period
approaches manures must be omitted and the
water at the roots be restricted if given a cool
house, but dryness will produce sour fruit. After
the fruit is gathered the early plants will be
excellent as autumn fruiters if shelter in cold
frames can be given for a time, when the plants
can be planted out in May, giving them ample
supplies of moisture when required. Vicomtesse
H. de Thury is an excellent variety for fruiting in
September if saved after forcing and planted in
rich soil at time named.

Succession crops. — There will now be less diffi-
culty in forcing these, and I find such varieties as
the new Royal Sovereign, La Grosse Sucree,
Auguste Nicaise, Keens' Seedling, President, and
Sir Chas. Napier are all excellent for succession
crops and ore forced in the order named. Royal
Sovereign did splendidly last season and looks
promising this. La Grosse Sucree is excellent for
home use, but not so good for packing, and the
value of this variety is its good cropping, with
noble-looking fruit. Before introducing Straw-
berries where they are to be forced, remove all
decaying matter, cleanse, and give a thorough
soaking of water. For succession crops, much
the best results are obtained by slow forcing, so
that if fruits are wanted for a certain date, allow
a week or two longer than the time required, as
by slower forcing better results are secured. The
advice given above as to finishing the fruits is of
equal importance for later crops. With more sun
the plants will now absorb more moisture, and I
find it is excellent to give an occasional watering
of liquid manure before the plants flower, as this
strengthens the spike, but once a week will suffice.
On the other hand, I do not top dress, as often
I advised. Many plants are ruined at the flower-

ing period by green-fly, and this pest multiplies
rapidly at this season, so fumigate every fortnight
up to the time the plants are in bloom two nights
in succession. By this means it will not be neces-
sary to fumigate so strongly at one time. Fre-
quent syringings overhead will maintain a healthy
leaf -growth, and by shutting up early and damp-
ing overhead freely there will be little trouble
with red spider, one of the worst pests Strawberry
forcers have to contend with. After the fruits are
set the flies are not so harmful, one or two good
fumigatings generally being sufficient. Plants
required for later crops that have been wintered
in houses or frames should not suffer for want of
moisture. If in dry fruit houses, water them
overhead freely. These plants should never be
dry at the roots, and if in a dark place, lose no
time in giving more light, as the trusses will be
weakened if not freely exposed as the sap is on.
the move. G. Wythes.

Destroyers.

FLOWER GARDEN PESTS.
The pests in a flower garden are almost as
numerous as the flowers themselves ; neverthe-
less, there are some kinds which are much more
injurious than others. Last year, as far as-
my experience goes, our gardens suffered com-
paratively little from injurious insects, with
the exception of earwigs, which were more than
usually troublesome and abundant. Of all the
insects, perhaps, which do the ni"st damage in
gardens the various kinds of aphides, which are
commonly known according to their colour, as
green or black fly, I think stand first, not only
from the amount of injury they do to plants by
sucking the juices of their leaves and tender
stems, or by their dropping the honey-dew
which they secrete on to the leaves, and thus
choking up their ports, but also from the very
large number of plants which they infest. In
fact, there are fe .v which do not suffer more or
less from the attacks of some member of this
family. Those, however, which belong to the
natural orders Fumariaceaa, Gentianaceaj and
Iridacese are said to be entirely free from them,
and labiates and cryptogamic plants nearly so.
One of the peculiarities of these insects is the
extraordinarily rapid manner in which they
breed, a plant being apparently free from them
one day and a few days afterwards being com-
pletely smothered by them. This is not quite
so strange as it seems at first sight, when we
realise that an aphis will give birth to two live
young ones within the space of half an hour,
and that these young will probably begin in the
course of three or four days to increase their
species at the same rate.

One of the commonest species is the well-
known green-fly of the Rcse (Siphonophora
ros;e). Few if any Roses are exempt from their
attacks, but the Tea-scented kinds generally
suffer less than the others. Dahlias, Verbenas,
and Asters are also infested by this species. In
seasons which are favourable to this insect it
seems almost impossible to keep Roses out of
doors free from them, as these insects breed so-
very fast. The most important thing is to take
steps to thoroughly clean the plants as soon as
any are detected on them, on the principle
that " a stitch in time saves nine." Plans al-
most without number have been suggested for
keeping this insect in check, but there seems to-
be no royal road to the accomplishment of this
end, and whatever means we use must be per-
severed in until we accomplish our object. If
only one plant is infested and that not to any
great extent, brushing it where the insects are

March 2, 1895.]

THE GAKDFN

153

with methylated spirits of wine, benzine, or
water in which paraffin oil has been mixed at the
rate of one wineglassful of oil to four gallons of
water is very efficacious. When a more general
application of some insecticide is required,
syringing the plants or spraying them with one
of the various forms of spraying machines is
the best remedy. These machines, though
more expensive than a syringe, are far
more economical as regards the amount of
insecticide used, and it likewise applies the
liquid in a more uniform manner. When
dealing with aphides, it is important to
use soft soap, or something of a greasy nature,
in order that the fluid which is used may not
run off them like water off a duck's back.
One of the simplest and most efficacious reme-
dies is the extract from 3 lbs. to 4 lbs. of quassia
chips, 2 lbs. of soft soap, well mixed together,
and added to 50 gallons of water. Another
very good remedy is dilute paraffin emulsion.
This is made by mixing together a pint and a
half of condensed milk and 3 pints of water,
then add 1 gallon of oil, and churn them until
the whole solidifies and forms a kind of butter.
This butter should be diluted with from twelve
to sixteen times its bulk of water, and should
then be used at once. The chief drawback to
using paraffin in any form is to prevent it sepa-
rating from the water and rising to the surface.
When this happens it will either be applied too
weak or too strong, but when the paraffin is
made into an emulsion there is little chance of
this danger, as the ingredients are so tho-
roughly mixed. Another very useful recipe is,
to 7 lbs. of tobacco add 1 lb. of soft soap, and
boil them well together in 5 gallons of water,
and then strain the mixture, and to every
gallon add 30 gallons of water before using.
The natural enemies of the green-fly are
numerous. The grubs of the common lady-
bird, of the lace-winged flies, and of a very
common fly with a black and yellow-banded
body, which may often be found hovering in
the air near trees in gardens on sunny days,
and there are various birds which devour them.
Perhaps their greatest foes are certain small
parasitic flies nearly allied to the ichneumon
flies which lay their eggs in them ; the grubs
hatched from these eggs kill their hosts by
feeding on them.

Thrips is another very common pest, which 13,
however, as a rule, more injurious to plants
under glass than to those in the open air.
Tliey are not so very easily detected as they
live on the undersides of the leaves. They
may be destroyed by the same insecticides as
green-fly, besides which 2 ozs. to 3 ozs. of Gis-
hurst compound to a gallon of water, with a
little tobacco water added, is said to be a very
deadly remedy. Though thrips do not breed in
such an extraordinarily rapid manner as aphides
do, still it is very essential to thoroughly cleanse
a plant as soon as it is found to be infested.

Earwigs are another very troublesome pest-
Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, and Carnations are
their principal victims in the flower garden.
The only practicable way of destroying them
appears to be by trapping them. The best
traps are pieces of crumpled-up paper put into
small garden pots or the hollow stems of
Beans, Artichokes, or Sunflowers ; the latter
are particularly useful, as they contain a certain
amount of a sweet lining to the hollow stem.
These traps should be examined every morning,
and the person who undertakes to empty them
should provide himself with a bowl partly filled
with water on which some paraffin oil lias been
poured, so that the insects when shaken into it
will be soon killed. The earwigs may very
easily be blown out of the hollow stems into

the bowl. The traps should be placed near the
flowers so that the insects may easily find them.

G. S. S.

Stove and Greenhouse.

STRIKING CUTTINGS.

On" p. 38 is pointed out the advantage of propa-
gating one's stock of Chrysanthemums from plants
that had been grown naturally rather than from
those that had been highly fed, even though the
shoots of these last might be stouter than the
others. The writer quotes an instance that has
come under his notice in proof of that assertion,
and with the entire article I thoroughly agree ;
indeed, I should be inclined to go much further
and apply the remarks not only to Chrysanthe-
mums, but to plants in general. It will be found
in the case of all plants that have been developed
under the stimulating influence of any of the
highly concentrated manures now in such general
use that their progeny, though bulky in appear-
ance, are wanting altogether in the stamina
necessary for building up a permanent healthy
specimen. Such subjects as Pelargoniums, Helio-
tropes, Fuchsias, Petunias, and other plants of
this nature will not grow kindly if propagated
from overfed parents. In another respect, too,
this high feeding appeals strongly to the propa-
gator, and that is the cuttings from such plants
are far more difficult to strike than if they are
produced on plants that have not been so heavily
manured. This was brought prominently under
my notice some fifteen years ago or thereabouts,
when the white-flowered Bouvardia with double
blossoms, Alfred Neuner, was first sent to this
country. As large a stock as possible in a short
time was the object aimed at, and the first two
or three crops of cuttings from the imported
plants struck root readily enough. Then just as
the plants commenced to push out other shoots, a
pinch of concentrated manure was given with the
object of hastening growth, which succeeded per-
fectly, but at the same time another stumbling-
block arose, for when the shoots so produced
were taken as cuttings, many altogether failed
to root, while those that did strike stood a
long while before doing so. Since then I have
tried many experiments in striking cuttings,
all of which have pointed to the fact that cuttings
from overfed plants are not only far more difficult
to strike, but even when rooted they are often less
satisfactory than those propagated from plants
grown in a more natural manner. Many instances
have come under my observation of late years,
not only in my own practice, but also in that of
others. One case which I particularly noted was
an attempt to work up a large stock of Coprosma
Baueriana variegata from comparatively small
beginnings. The cuttings of this were struck,
potted off, and as soon as sufficiently large the
tops of the young plants were taken as cuttings.
This went on until a considerable number was
obtained, and one day a large batch of cuttings
was tpken which, though treated the same as had
always been done before, refused to root, or at all
events very few did so in a satisfactory manner.
I was consulted on the matter, and a few inquiries
elicited the fact that the young plants had all been
given a pinch of fertiliser to force on the produc-
tion of shoots, which so far succeeded, but finally
resulted in greatly checking the increase. It was
quite six months before these young plants re-
sumed their normal state, and propagation went
on as before. Even in the case of plants that have
not been unduly fed the stout succulent shoots do
not strike root so readily as the weaker short-
jointed ones, and this fact should be especially
borne in mind when the subject is difficult of in-
crease in this way from whatever part of the plant
the cutting may be taken. For such things the
best cuttings, as a rule, are furnished by the side
shoots that have been well exposed to the light
and not those borne in the centre of the plant. Of

course, in the case of plants with a decided leader
such as Araucarias cuttings of the side shoots are
useless, as they never form a symmetrical speci-
men. Of hard-wooded plants, some of which are
notoriously difficult to strike, it will be often
found that the best results are obtained by those
near the edge of the pot, and when covered with a
bell-glass I have often noted that should a cutting
or two be pressed down by the edge of the glass
it will be rooted before any of the others. T.

Libonia floribundu.— At this season of the
year large specimens of this plant, 2 feet in height
and as much through, with healthy, dark green
foliage, and covered with tubular blooms of ver-
milion and yellow, are among the most striking
occupants of the conservatory. The Libonia is at
present, unha| pily, quite out of fashion, it being
a rare thing now-a flays to see it really well done,
but there are few subjects that fill* the gap in
blooming plants (luring the first three months of
the year so satisfactorily and enduringly, provided
adequate attention is accorded. Its great enemy
is red spider, and an arid atmosphere during the
summer invariably induces an attack of this pest.
Cuttings should be struck in heat, a propagating
frame for choice, in February, potted as soon as
rooted, and shifted on during the spring and
early summer, taking care that the shoots are well
stopped to lay the foundation of a bushy and sym-
metrical plant, after which they may be stood in a
frame until October, when they should again be
housed. During hot weather the foliage should be
kept healthy by frequent syringings, which is a
iin< '/"" non that is Beldom observed, the neglect
of this practice resulting in the leaves .being
scanty and of an unhealthy hue, as is the case
with the majority of plants one sees. Large pots
should not be used, but nutriment in the shape
of liquid manure and soot -water applied at frequent
intervals. The system of planting out during the
summer ie not recommended. Large specimens,
that at this period are most valuable for effect,
can be grown from tho cutting in three years, but
year-old plants, when web flowered, are very
effective. Fibrous loam and sand with the addition
of a little peat form a good potting medium. —
S. W. F.

Roman Hyacinths. —I, too, have found the
blooms of Roman Hyacinths exceptionally
numerous and of fine quality this season. The
general plan of preparing the bulbs for forcing is
to plunge them in cocoa nut fibre refuse, ashes or
sand for a period of six weeks or so after potting,
with the view of encouraging a free root action.
This plunging is not at all necessary. If the
bulbs are planted rather thickly in ordinary
Geranium cutting boxes, exposing the crown or
neck of the bulb, and standing out of doors with-
out any protection from rain whatever, only
covering them in the case of frost, equally satis-
factory results will be attained. — E. M.

Poinsettias in summer. — After many years'
experience I have come to the conclusion that
dwarfer and better plants generally of this tine
winter-blooming subject are produced by frame
or pit culture from the end of May to the middle
of September than when they are kept growing
in intermediate or even cool houses. In the former
quarters growth invariably becomes leggy and
soft, while the foliage is under-sized. In cool
houses the temperature fluctuates too much to
suit Poinsettias The plants enjoy a quiet moist
atmosphere with plenty of air, but no draught.
This is best afforded in pits and frames, the plants
standing on a cool ash bottom. One thing, how-
ever, is necessary, namely, closing the frames each
afternoon so as to husband a little sun heat. The
pots should be well drained, as the roots of Poin-
settias are very impatient of too much moisture.
More so is this the case towards autumn, as the
nights become cooler. After housing, a tempera-
ture of 60° or 65° suits them well, and a stimulant
of a mild character is beneficial two or three times
a week. The most remarkable batch of young
Poinsettias in a growing state I ever saw was at
Carrow House, Norwich, the residence of Mr. J.

154

THE GARDEN.

[March 2, 1895.

J. Colman. It was at the beginning of September,
1893. The plants, planted out in a brick pit
and treated in the manner above described,
were a picture of health and vigour, having
stems of great thickness and extra large leaves.
On asking Mr. Jones, the gardener, how these
plants behaved when lifted, he replied, " by being
kept close for a week after potting only a few of
the very lowest leaves fall off, and we get excel-
lent flower-heads." — J. C.

Neitera depressa. — In summer when this in-
teresting little plant is thickly set with its bright
orange-scarlet berries, it is sure to attract atten-
tion. It is quite an exceptional plant in its way,
possessing little or no beauty except when its
berries are so brightly coloured. Years ago I
grew hundreds of this plant in small pots which
met a ready sale when the berries were ripe and
coloured. As the plant flowers early in the year,
it is best increased by division at once, so as to
encourage an early growth and a greater number
of blossoms. These latter are of a greenish hue,
and appear in the axils of the leaves. The plant
grows freely in light, sandy loam, with fine brick
rubble added liberally. In potting keep the plants
on a level with the top of the pot, so that a
mound-like form may result when growth ensues.
Afford plenty of moisture overhead during the
growing season. For general work 5-inch pots are
a very useful size to employ, though pans of
larger size are also very effective. It may be well
grown in a cold frame, and in such I have wintered
many hundreds of plants with impunity. — E. J.

LISIANTHUS RUSSELLIANUS.

When looking over the seed-growing establish-
ment of M. Ernst Benary at Erfurt two or three
years ago M. John Benary exhibited with con-
scious pride a houseful of Lisianthus Russellianus
in full flower and in splendid condition. They
were grown to produce seed, and the profusion of
bloom was admirable. I have to go back to the
year 1851, when similar plants in flower were
grown by Mr. Green, of Cheam, Surrey, who ex-
hibited them in London previous to or about that
time. Mr. Green exhibited a plant with five
hundred blooms expanded on it. None of M.
Benary's plants were equal to this fine specimen,
but it showed what could be done by well-directed
skill and attention to details. I was so impressed
with the beauty of this plant some thirty years
ago, that I purchased a packet of seed and raised
a fine lot of plants from it. It is a biennial, and
the seed costs about a shilling a packet. The
flowers are in form like a small Tulip and of a dis-
tinct violet-blue colour, so that the beauty of a
plant with five hundred fully expanded Tulip-like
blooms - each of a violet-blue colour — may be
imagined by those who have not seen it. These
old flowers are to many young gardeners prac-
tically unknown. It is a larger genus than many
persons are aware of. There are upwards of
fifty specific forms enumerated in the "Index
Kewensis," some of them, of which figures are ex-
tant, being of no great beauty. L. pulcher is a
distinct and rather beautiful species which I have
not seen in flower, but it is well figured in the
Botanical Magazine, tab. 4424, from a good
plant grown in the hothouse of Messrs. Lucombe
and I'ince, of the Exeter Nurseries, in 1S48. Seed
was advertised of it some years ago, but I failed
to get any plants from it. The plant has a near
resemblance to a scarlet Pent stemon. L. Russelli-
anus is also well figured in the Botanical Maga-
zine, tab. 3026, and there we gather that it was
sent home from Texas by Drummond in 1835, who
says it was "not excelled in beauty by any plant."
It was named in honour of the Duke ot Bedford,
who at that time was a great patron of gardening.
I used to grow annually two score or more of
these plants in 9-inch pots, and they were very
valuable for furnishing thegreenhouse in the month
of August. The seed may be sown in April to
get good strong plants. It is small, and should
be sown on a smooth surface and just covered with
fine white sand. It vegetates in any forcing

house with a temperature of 55°. A square of
glass is laid over the mouth of the pot or seed-pan
to keep the soil in a moist condition. Prick the
plants out in small pots as soon as they can be
handled, to be planted one into a pot later. About
the end of August they will be large enough to
repot into 4 inch or 5-inch flower-pots, and as the
cold weather comes on they must be placed in a
heated house. I have always wintered my plants
on a shelf near the glass roof in a temperature of
55° to 60°. They do not require much water in
winter, and what they do need is applied to the
roots by dipping the pots in water, so that it
moistens the soil through the hole in the bottom
of the pots. Drain the latter well, and grow the
plants in good yellow loam and fibrous peat in
equal parts, a fourth part of decayed cow manure
and coarse sand to keep the compost open. Re-
pot them in February into 7-inch flower-pots, and
as soon as they are well established, which will
be by the end of April, they may be repotted
again into 9-inch pots. Mr. Green grew his large
specimens in 18 inch pots, which are needlessly
large and most unwieldy objects to move about
from one place to another. As the plants grow
they must have the points pinched out of them.
Careful watering is also necessary at all times,
especially in winter, as many of them have a
tendency to die off at the neck. In summer they
do well in any unhealed house or pit, such as
they were growing and flowering in so well in
M. Benary's seed grounds at Erfurt.

J. Douglas.

Rhapis flabelliformis. — Of some Palms, such
as Kentias, Arecas, Latanias, Cocos and Phoenix,
large quantities of seeds are sent to this country,
and being grown for decoration they are met
with almost everywhere ; but seeds of this Rhapis
are rarely to be obtained, hence it is usually
increased by division, which can be successfully
carried out in the case of this Palm, as, unlike
most of its class, suckers are produced pretty
freely. If the operation of separating them
from the parent plant be carefully carried out,
the loss will be but slight, though the Rhapis,
like all other Palms, resents being disturbed at
the roots. It is a good plant for the dwelling-
house if kept clean, which last item is very
necessary, as the leaves are rather rough and the
dust adheres more readily to them than to many
other Palms. This Rhapis is a native of Japan
and requires only greenhouse treatment ; there-
fore it may be employed in positions that are too
tender for more delicate subjects. Though a
greenhouse is all that is necessary for their well-
doing, yet the young plants will make more rapid
progress if given the heat of a stove. A miniature
form known as Rhapis humilis is a charming
little Palm, but needs rather more heat and
attention than the stronger grower. I have seen
a form of R. flabelliformis with variegated leaves,
but it often shows a considerable tendency to
revert to the normal kind. — H. P.

Azalea obtusa. — This is a very pretty little
Azalea, which by some would be preferred to ihe
larger- flowered forms, though to many the pro-
duction of very large blossoms is the one object
to be aimed at. A. obtusa forms a dense, freely-
branched little bush, clothed with leaves some-
what larger than those of the well-known A.
amoena, while the flowers are also of increased
size. In colour they are a kind of orange-red.
There is also a variety with white blossoms, which
doubtless originated as a sport from the typical
kind, as occasionally a red flower will make its
appearance among the white ones, and still more
frequently some of the white petals will be more
or less striped with red. This Azalea is without
the hose-in-hose conformation of the flower so
conspicuous in A. amtena and some other of these
small-flowered forms. It is particularly notice-
able in A. calyciflora, for in this the calyx seg-
ments are enlarged and coloured the same as the
flower, thus presenting exactly the appearance of
one flower within another. A. calyciflora is,
except in the double blossom, so much like A.
obtusa, that in all probability it is but a variety

thereof. All those above mentioned, as well as
A. amrena and the various hybrid forms claiming
parentage from it, force readily, and after they
have been treated in this way for two or three
years they may without difficulty be had in bloom
by Christmas. Azaleas of this class strike very
readily from cuttings, and plants obtained in this
way are much preferable to those propagated by
grafting, as they are naturally of a dwarf, bushy
habit, and are totally out of place stuck on a long
naked stem. — T.

MONOTONY IN GARDENS.

Perhaps the most grievous source of wasted
effort in gardens is monotony arising from
everybody growing what his neighbour grows,
so that we lose many chances of variety.
Thus it comes that the nurseryman who
grows new or rare trees or shrubs often
rinds them left on his hands, so that many
country nurseries only grow a few stereotyped
things, which means monotony to gardens.
For instance, we see public gardens and squares
in London given over to the common Privet,
the neglected Lilac, and the common Elder,
as in Lincoln's Inn Fields. The temptation
is strong on the part of trade growers to keep
only things that people want to grow freely,
and to recommend things, like Privet, which
are without beauty, and offensive in odour
when in flower. The presence of such things
is one of the causes of the miserable aspect of
the shrubberies in many gardens, which might
be very beautiful with varied life. The presence
of many shrubs of little beauty often destroys by
their vigour the rare and beautiful garden vege-
tation, so that we have not only the ugliness
of a brake of Laurel, or Privet, or Pontic Rho-
dodendron to survey, but often the fact that
these things have overrun and killed far more
precious things. And this nursery rubbish
having eaten up every good thing begins to
eat up itself, and hence we see so many shrub-
beries worn out. Lovers of the garden could do
something to check this fatal tendency to
monotony by taking up some family of plants
for themselves which perhaps they are unable
to find in the nursery gardens near. It is not
only beautiful species of plants which are ex-
cluded from ordinary nurseries, but even special
nurseries, as for Roses, will often exclude good
things from their collections. It would be too
much to expect that the enormous number of
Roses grown should be grown by any one man,
or even by any half-dozen growers ; but the
fact remains that even nurseries devoted
to special subjects may be too exclusive.
We say so much to show that even in the
branches of gardening that seem best known
there are neglected sources of interest, while
among little-known plants there are many.
But it is not only the introduction of new
plants or species we have to think of here, but
other things equally important : the raising of
new forms (hybrids or varieties), the fine culti-
vation of interesting groups, as the beautiful
forms of our native Primrose by Miss Jekyll ; the
making more artistic use of old anil well-known
plants ; the skilful adaptation of plants and trees
to the soil so as to get the highest beauty of which
it is capable without excessive care or cost, and
without the mourning and death that are visible
in many places after hard winters. \ I neces-
sary to form true ideas of trade limitations,
as many people seem to think that the nearest
nurseryman possesses all the known art of gar-
dening, and has all the plants worth having;
whereas he probably is in a very narrow groove
as regards either of those subjects. Therefore,
those who seek to vary the monotony of gardens

Mabcii 2, 1895.1

THE GARDEN

155

must be prepared to face some little trouble,
and not take the least notice of what is con-
sidered right in the neighbourhood, or what
■can be obtained from the nearest nursery gar-
den, or even some of the larger nursery gardens.
The further afield they look, probably the better
in the end it will be for them if they would
escape from the trammels of monotony. At
the same time, if local men have good things
they ought to be encouraged. It is a misfor-
tune for gardens that there are not more local
nurseries of an interesting character, because
they would be the very best basis on which to
see what local circumstances will best admit of.
— Field.

Kitchen Garden.

INSECT ENEMIES TO PEAS AND
BEANS.
I think I may safely assert that all the leading
seedsmen exercise very great care in examining
all Peas and Beans before sending out to cus-
tomers, carefully excluding any that may appear
unsound or indicating insect attacks. Many
small retailers of seeds ask gentlemen and their
gardeners why they do not purchase from them,
as they can supply equally as good seeds as the
big houses and at a much lower rate. The
latter may be true, but as to the seeds being
equally as good is more than doubtful, which
can be proved by comparison, and in the vast
majority of instances it will be found that the
cheap seeds have been a false economy. In the
case of Peas and Beans this will be found
especially true, by the introduction of insect
pests into the garden. Of these amongst Peas,
the Pea beetle (Bruchus pisi) and the striped
Pea weevil (Sitones lineatus) are the worst.
Peas infested with the beetle named can easily
be detected through the holes made by the
grubs, and should on no account be sown, but
burnt at once, thereby minimising the danger
of attack as much as possible. The striped Pea
weevil is a much more serious enemy to combat
and does more damage, as unless its ravages
are checked, it will frequently destroy the
plants. Some four years ago I had to contend
against this foe, and could not imagine what
was the matter with whole rows of Peas just
staked, which, instead of growing well, appeared
likely to vanish. On examining the under sides
of the leaves I discovered the weevils in a fully
developed state, and also larva? of the same,
both feeding on the foliage and shoots day and
night. Dusting with lime, soot, &c. , had only
a slight effect in preventing their ravages. What
seemed to have the best result was repeated
applications of liquid manure, and working into
the soil with the Dutch hoe a light dressing of
fish guano. It is possible that the manures
were objectionable to the insects as well as
stimulating to the Peas, but by one or both
those causes fair crops were secured, although
not so good as if no injury had been done by
insect pests. Deep and thorough cultivation is
also advisable to prevent further attacks, and
even then it may take a year or two to eradicate
it, even when the Peas are sown on fresh
ground, as is usually done in most gardens. In
my case it took two years to accomplish its
extirpation.

The Bean weevil (Bruchus granarius) is
evidently becoming more general, as out of
various lots of Broad Beans obtained from
several notable firms during the past few years
every packet has had Beans therein infested.
However, if all such Beans (which may be
detected by the orifice) are burnt, only sowing

the sound ones, no unsightly breaks will occur
in the rows through not putting in damaged
seed. Last year our Broad Beans had a few
strange caterpillars on them. On sending s> >me
to a well-known authority on such matters I
was informed that they were the larvae of the
gamma moth, and was strongly advised to
carefully hand-pick the infested plants, other-
wise they might increase to such an extent as
to inflict serious damage to that kind of crop.
In face of the many and apparently increasing
quantity of insect foes that we have to fight
against annually, it should be palpable to all
that seeds should only be obtained from those
firms who strive to send out clean stocks, that
will not only be a credit to them, but also
satisfactory to growers, by germinating freely
and not prone to the enemies mentioned.

W. G. C.

Radishes for forcing. — These, if a proper
selection be made, may be sown amongst Potatoes
planted in frames. It sometimes happens when
the old varieties of Turnip Radish are selected
that they get smothered by the Potato haulm
before reaching a size fit for use. This would not
happen if one of the recognised forcing kinds were
grown. Of these I find the Early Scarlet Forcing
is the best, as the top growth is small and neat
and the roots form very quickly. If a long kind
is preferred, Wood's Early Frame will be found
the best that can be grown, but for growing
amongst other crops I certainly prefer the Turnip-
shaped variety mentioned above. — J. C. Tallack.

Parisian Forcing Carrot. — This is far ahead
of any other kind of Carrot for sowing on hotbeds
at this time of the year to get an early supply.
Until I first grew this I used to depend on the old
French Forcing for sowing at this time of the
year and also for sowing in August in frames, but
the Parisian Forcing comes in much more quickly.
From a sowing made on February 7 last year we
commenced pulling for use on May 1, and this
from a hotbed only protected by spare lights
being propped over it and without any side pro-
tection whatever. I prefer this plan to that of
using frames, as the young plants are not then so
liable to get drawn. They like warmth under-
neath, but do best when very little protection is
used for the tops. I find "that roots of these
small kinds are more 'appreciated than those of
larger kinds, and by sowing at intervals a supply
is kept up the year round. The latest Bowing is
made in the pits used for Potato forcing, and the
roots from this sowing, if lifted now and stored in
sand, will keep plump and good till early sowings
are fit for use. — J. C. Tallack.

EELWORMS ATTACKING TOMATOES.

Eelwokms are very difficult to combat with, but
unless they are got rid of or kept under, the crops
of Tomatoes are bound to be light. Preventive
measures are most necessary in all cases where
they have proved troublesome in previous years.
If in the autumn F. Miles could have emptied
his hot- water pipes and set the house wide open,
he would have found gaslime the cheapest, safest
and most effective remedy that could have been
applied, and frosts also would have done good.
Instead of going to the expense of removing the
top spit of soil the border might have been double-
dug, or, if the second spit is fairly good, com-
pletely trenched prior to receiving a dressing of
gaslime, applied at the rate of half a hundred-
weight to the square rod. For six weeks the gas-
lime ought to have remained on the surface, and
be then forked into the ground. Why I do
not advise using it now is because it is some-
what poisonous in a fresh state, and must be ex-
posed long enough to get rid of some of its in-
jurious properties. It might yet be tried, but at I
this late date a quarter of a hundredweight would |
be enough for a square rod of border, and after a
week or ten days' exposure be forked in, planting

| following in the course of another week, or longer
if it can be delayed without unduly weakening
the plants. Corrosive sublimate I have never
used ; it is a strong poison and said to dissolve the
most readily in hot water. With this F. Miles
might experiment on a small scale and note the
results before running serious risks. Soluble
phenyl I have used rather extensively with good
results. This will be found a somewhat ex-
pensive remedy, especially if it is the roots and
not the stem that is attacked. If the former
are affected they soon become almost useless as
far as supplying crude sap to the plant is
concerned, and will be found on pulling up a
flagging plant to be much clubbed or knotted.
Before eelworms become established in the roots
a thorough soaking of soluble phenyl should be
given, and as this must only be diluted at therate of
one pint to eighteen or twenty gallons of water, it
will be seen that a considerable quantity will be
required for a large house. Another species of
nematoid worm, or Heterodera, attacks the stem
just below the surface, and are not so very long
before they completely cut off all communication
between the roots and the plant above ground,
flagging being the first sign of attack. Once
flagging commences there is no saving the plant,
and it may as well be pulled up and burnt at
once. In this case watering with the diluted
phenyl close up to the stem so as to moisten all
round the buried portion is a good preventive. It
should be commenced before the plants set any
fruit, and be repeated at intervals of about three
weeks. If only a comparatively few plants are
growing, I should advise baring the stems as
deeply as can be done without damaging many
roots, and well moistening with diluted phenyl
prior to returning the soil on to the top of or up
against the moss, the latter to be re-moistened
with the phenyi occasionally. F. Miles can
procure the phenyl through a local chemist, and
should insist upon reduced rates being charged for
large quantities if taken. Soluble phenyl is not
prejudicial to the growth of Tomato plants, but
rather the opposite. Chemical manures accom-
panied by abundance of water will also serve aa a
deterrent of eelworms, and it need hardly be
added that a strong yet sturdy habit of growth is
desirable in every way. W. I.

NOTES ON LETTUCES.

On page 80 " W. G. C." advises a limited assort-
ment of well-tried Lettuces in preference to de-
voting time and space to those of doubtful merit.
I can fully support him in his views. All the
varieties named except Little Queen are well
known and popular sorts, but I would venture to
add one or two others which have done well with
me after several trials. For forcing in frames
and pits I prefer either Veitch's Golden Queen or
Sutton's Commodore Nutt to the Early Paris
Market for two reasons, namely, size and early
maturity. Either of these two sorts matures
more quickly than the Paris variety under the
same conditions, and, being smaller growers, they
can be sown or planted more closely together,
which is a gain in frame culture. Beyond this I
have not a word to say against Early Paris
Market, as it is undoubtedly a very fine variety in
every way, but its value is greater as an early
outdoor and successional sort. I like to have
some of the two first named for the sake of colour,
one being green, and the other, as its name im-
plies, of a golden tint. Both are equally good in
quality and make firm little hearts, which, grown
under glass, are so tender that they bruise if
subjected to the least suspicion of rough treatment.
For summer work Veitch's Perfect Gem is invalu-
able and without a rival, and where variety is
needed, Neapolitan and Sutton's Favourite are
capital kinds with distinctly crimpled edges to
their leaves. They are slow to run to seed, which
is a consideration in summer. Stanstead Park
grows to a good size and is a distinct Lettuce,
but with me when first tried almost every one
bolted, and I have discarded it. Daniels' Con-

156

THE GARDEN.

[Mabcii 2, 1895.

tinuity and Marvel represent another section of
Cabbage Lettuce, and where variety is desired
they can both be strongly recommended for deli-
cate flavour and long-standing qualities. Those
who prefer a less crisp leaf than that furnished by
Paris Cos or the selected Superb White Cos re-
tailed by all good houses should try Carter's
Mammoth. This, as its name implies, assumes
large dimensions, and also requires tying up to
thoroughly blanch the heart and inside leaves,
and this is the only drawback, I think, that can be
attributed to it, particularly where labour is
stinted. In texture it resembles to a large extent
the Cabbage section, and this, coupled with its
size, gives it a foremost place. It is a good
market variety and stands hot weather well. Of
winter Cabbage Lettuce there is none to excel the
Hardy Hammersmith, and this has no value after
the spring-sown plants are ready for use, and it is
surprising how quickly they may be had at the
foot of sunny walls from an indoor sowing, plant-
ing out as soon as strong enough to handle. From
the same positions the Hammersmith can be cut
throughout the winter, except in very severe
weather, from August sowings. It is the hardiest
and best in its section for winter work.

W. Strugnell.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

GOOD COOKING APPLES.

One of the best cooking Apples is Lord Derby,
which is illustrated, as this cooks and crops
well, succeeding where others fail. It is a
splendid town fruit, growing and cropping well
under adverse conditions as to soil and climate.
We have far too many varieties, the majority
of poor quality ; but the trouble is to select the
best. The variety Lord Derby should certainly
have a place. Amongst those Apples that will
give a supply from September to May are the
following. For early use it is well to plant such
as Manks Codlin, a sure bearer and excellent
as either a bush or pyramid. It is not a large
grower and never fails to crop well, being fit for
use very early in the season, cooking well and
providing the table in advance of other kinds.
For orchard culture as standards the well-known
Keswick Codlin may always be relied upon, but
it has a few faults, the greatest being it crops so
freely, that many of the fruits are small. Where
this is grown it is well to thin severely, and
if only small trees are desired I would give
the Manks preference. To follow this when
cropping and other qualities are considered
Lord Grosveuor is a very good selection, and in
season from September to November. It is a large
fruit of the Codlin type, a robust grower with
large foliage, and a fine fruit either for market
or private use. I have grown this variety when
such kinds as Lord Suffield or Cellini failed,
and, carefully handled when gathering, it may
be had good up to Christmas. Cellini Pippin
is a great favourite of mine in bush form, and
I include it in my small selection, but it does
not grow so freely in some soils as one could
desire. In Gloucestershire and the surrounding
counties it was our best all-round October fruit,
its very handsome colour, acid flavour and free-
cropping qualities making it a profitable variety
and one that can be used for dessert if required.
Of late years I have noticed a great tendency to
canker with this vatiety, so that in planting it
it is well to study the stock on which it is grafted,
so as to get a clean growth, and in many soils I
have seen it do better as a standard. In this
form there is greater freedom of growth and less
canker.

For mid-season or December use there are
few better types of fruit than Lord Derby, and,

as shown in the illustration, it is a handsome
fruit, large, angular, greenish-yellow, and of
first-rate quality, a great bearer and a variety that
rarely fails to crop ; the tree is a strong grower
and a splendid orchard variety. I have kept
fruits well into the spring when given cool
storage, but do not advise it for late use, but
for mid-season supplies. New Hawthornden is a
good variety for early winter use, and one of
the best to crop in a young state and good in
bush form. A large, handsome fruit of brisk
flavour and a great favourite in the kitchen,
this is also a good market fruit, and well repays
good cultivation. Annie Elizabeth may be
classed as one of the best varieties for gardens
near towns or in poor soils ; in standard form
it crops grandly, and keeps sound well into
March ; indeed, by gathering late and giving
cool storage, I have kept this variety for eight
months. It is a large conical fruit, with firm flesh
and first-rate quality. It has a brisk flavour and
fruits regularly. I now come to a newer intro-

tion, I find a most reliable late fruit. This is
in season well into May ; the fruits are large,
flat, dark green, firm, acid flavour, and streaked
or flushed with bright red on the sunny side.
This variety gathered late retains its good flavour
to the last, and is a good cropper, grand
as a bush or pyramid, and one well worth in-
cluding in a select list. The well-known Dume-
low's Seedling or Wellington does not thrive in
all situations, but it has few equals as a late
variety with me; it fruits freely enough, but
the fruits are so spotted, that they soon decay,
so that it is well to give it a limited space.
Where it thrives it is a splendid cooker, good
as a standard and much liked in the kitchen,
and a heavy cropper when grown on the Para-
dise stock in a dwarf form. Those who do not
select this may with advantage grow NewtOD
Wonder, a valuable kind, in season in May,

i and much resembling the Wellington in keep-
ing and cooking qualities. This latter is a new

1 variety, but, so far, young trees have given very

Fruiting branch of Lord Derby Apple. From, a photograph sent by
Mr. Norman Blake, Bedford,

duction, and one noted as the best of its
class, Lane's Prince Albert, and though it
is now close upon forty years since this
variety was first sent out, it is only of
late years that it has found so much favour
among all classes of growers. I do not know
of any variety more profitable and a better
cropper in any form ; even two-year-old trees
are so laden, that they have to be supported.
The value of this fine variety was fully ex-
plained in these pages some few years ago, and
since that date it is more popular than ever, and
being a late handsome fruit with splendid cook-
ing qualities, it is one that should be included in
a limited collection and is in season during the
spring months. As regards habit of growth it
is somewhat pendulous, and with a heavy crop
requires support. When grown in a bush form
it should have space, and to prevent too free
fruiting I have planted trees on the natural or
Crab stock, which bear very fine fruits and are
preferable to those on other stocks. Bramley's
Seedling, another variety of recent introduc-

fine crops. Alfriston may be termed a late
Lord Derby, as it is much like it as regards
size, colour, and other good qualities. This is
one of our best croppers, very large, late, and
of acid flavour, firm flesh, and close, strong
growth. With me it rarely fails, and we have
trees in all forms and ages, our best fruit being
secured from bush trees, and these latter rarely
fail to fruit. There are others doubtless
equally good as those named, but the above
I consider most reliable when cropping and
cooking qualities are considered.

G. Wythes.

Small Pears.— The remarks of " W. G. C.:»

(page 94) on small Pears of good flavour are not
only interesting, but very useful, especially to
those about to plant and whose knowledge of the
merits of the different sorts is but limited.
Guided entirely by trade lists, in which, unfor-
tunately, the larger and more showy Pears and
Apples are accorded the most praise, many are apt
to fill their walls and gardens with inferior
flavoured kinds, finding this out when too late. I

March 2, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

157

do not say it is necessary to plant many of these
smaller kinds, as there are many of larger size of
excellent flavour, but certainly where room can
be spared, one or two trees of all the sorts named
by " W. G. C." ought to be included. I cannot
say much in favour of Citron des Carmes, as,
although very early, it will hardly keep good
twenty-four hours from trees on our soil. I find,
however, a splendid substitute in Beurre Giffard,
a Pear which " W. G. C." does not mention. This
is very little behind Citron des Carmes in ripen-
ing, while it beats it out and out for keeping. It
will crop well on Quince either as a wall tree or
horizontal cordon. It has a somewhat musky fla-
vour, which some might object to, but this is per-
ceptible in many early Pears, notably Williams'
Bon Chretien. As a market Pear to be sold as soon
as gathered, Beurre Giffard would, I think, answer
well. I can endorse what " W. G. C." says in re-
ference to Comte de Lamy. Very few Pears in-
deed possess a flavour superior to it. It likewise
bears well in almost any form or position. — J.
Crawford.

Mealy bug- on Vines. — Having read the
remarks in your valuable paper respecting
the above, it may be interesting to some of
your readers to know the result of my expe-
rience in that respect. Having taken charge of
the gardens at Bentley Priory, Stanmore, in
1866, I found a span roofed range, principally
vineries, in good condition, but with one excep-
tion— this being much infested with mealy bug
— it was through no fault of the gardener who had
charge of them before me, but the proprietor
would have stove and greenhouse plants grown in
them. I saw at once some severe measure must
be taken. The houses were painted and the wire-
work and walls well scalded, whilst 6 inches of the
surface soil was taken away and made up with
fresh ; loose bark was also removed. I never was an
advocate for scraping Vines, my impression having
always been that it is injurious to them. I had
boiling hot water poured over the Vines with a rose
water-pot, and the Vines were syringed under-
neath in case any particle should escape the boiling
water, the men having sufficient cloths to hold the
syringe. They were afterwards dressed with a
similar mixture as recommended on page 95. The
second year about three bugs were found ; the
places were closely watched, but none appeared
after in my time, and the vineries were much ad-
mired. I had experimented with the boiling water
on scale before I commenced such an operation
— F. Rutland.

PLANTING AND MANAGING ORCHARDS

There is still room for remarks on this subject,
especially as spring planting is likely to be more
general this season than usual. Personally, I
am opposed to spring planting, preferring to
carry it out in November while yet the ground
retains some of the latent warmth of summer.
New roots are then formed before actual winter
sets in. This year, however, spring-planted
trees are likely to do better, if in fairly sheltered
situations and well cared for, than those planted
in December, the roots of which have passed
through an ordeal sufficiently severe to paralyse
them, especially where the position is low and
the soil retentive. In planting new orchards on
pasture laud thtre is often too much eagerness
to get the trees in as soon as the ground is
turned up ; whereas if allowed to lie not only
through the winter, but the following summer,
being well hoed and scuffled at intervals to kill
weeds and admit air and heat, the trees planted
at the fall of the leaf will make more growth in
one year than in three when planted in im-
properly prepared ground. With ground that
is naturally fairly rich, ordinary trenching and
at the same time working in plenty of good
manure will suffice ; but where the staple is
either so shallow or so poor that holes have to
be taken out and refilled with fresh compost,

more than ordinary provision ought to be made
for the roots. When only one or two cartloads
are placed in each hole it cannot reasonably be
expected that fruit trees can thrive for long in
such a limited larder. They never grow to half
their normal size and the fruit produced is of
the poorest. Six good cartloads to each tree is
quite little enough, and when in a few years the
roots traverse this the intervening spaces ought
not to be allowed to remain Grass-covered, but
be turned up a spit deep and annually dressed
with good farmyard manure, that the strength
may be washed down by repeated rains. We
treat our Plums, Gooseberries and Currants in
this way, and why not our orchards / Where
Grass is allowed to grow it should be closely
mown twice yearly and not grazed, as many tine
young trees are completely ruined by cattle
rubbing against the stems and eating the lower
branches, especially when brought down by the
weight of fruit. Indet d, for this reason some of
our best cropping Apples, such as Lane's Prince
Albert, cannot be planted where cattle have
access on account of their weeping habit. 1
quite agree with Mr. Iggulden's statement some
time ago that incalculable injury is done to fruit
trees by the roots being exposed to harsh drying
winds between lifting and replanting. I have
frequently noticed trees offered for sale in
country markets without a morsel of litter
round the roots to protect them. Such trees are
often purchased by farmers and others, and the
roots subjected to further exposure, tied behind
carriers' vans and other vehicles. Thus robbed
of their vitality before being planted they linger
on from year to year, a source of vexation to
the owner. Another matter often overlooked in
new orchards is shelter. This is of paramount
importance, and where not afforded naturally
n ay be supplied by planting single or, better
•till, double rows of well-furnished Larch on
the exposed sides. These, though deciduous in
winter, break into growth by the time the buds
i-xpand, and form a dense thicket before the
blossom opens and the tender leaves unfold.
Thinning out the shoots is also often carried
to extremes, even in the case of old trees, in
such uncertain springs as ours. Of late years I
have noticed old, neglected orchards bearing
crops of fruit, though small, while those re-
ceiving orthodox treatment in the way of liberal
winter thinnings were minus fruit, owing to
lack of shelter when the trees were in bloom.
Last, but not least, comes the selection of varie
ties. Many err in this matter, even growers for
market. As a rule, too many early and mid
season Apples are planted because they are
known to be good croppers. Oldenburgs,
Suffields, Grosvenors, and Ecklinvilles are
planted by the acre, with the result that the
markets are glutted at a given time and prices
rule low, as these sorts will not keep. What is
really wanted is a good sized showy culinary
Apple to precede the above sorts by several
weeks, the same having a firm flesh and not
liable to early decay. Of later sorts we have
none too many. Lane's Prince Albert, Mere
de Menage, and Bramley's Seedling are all
good, but 1 really think that some of our older
varieties would still hold their own. The in-
troduction of newer sorts has ousted them out
of cultivation, at least so far as propagation is
concerned, isolated old trees appearing here and
there. For late use that most excellent variety
Rymer was the sheet anchor of the old school,
keeping sound and firm into May, and needing
very little sugar when cooked. It was a heavy
and certain cropper and resisted frost well.
Hambledon [deux Ans, another old Apple, is
well worth extended cultivation on account of
its long-keeping properties and fine flavour. It

will grow to a good size on good soil. Stunner
Pippin is a most useful late Apple, being very
acceptable in the dessert during April and May,
and unsurpassed at that date for puddings and
pies. It makes a fine symmetrical tree, sets a
crop under adverse climatic influences, but re-
quires good soil, so that the fruit may attain to
its full size, otherwise it is liable to shrivel at
the turn of the year. J. Crawford.

Societies and Exhibition?.

NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.

Annual Meeting.
On Monday evening last the annual meeting of
the members of this society was held at Anderton's
Hotel, Fleet Street, the chair being occupied by
Mr. C. E. Shea.

After the secretary had read the notice con-
vening the meeting, the minutes of the last general
meeting and the minutes of the special general
meeting in May last were read and confirmed. It
was, as will be'remembered, at the latter meeting
at which Mr. Jukes was presented with an
illuminated address on his retirement as vice-
chairman and the discussion on Mr. Shea's paper
on judging took place.

The annual report for 1894 was then presented,
from which we learn that large additions to the
roll of membership were made and that nineteen
new societies were admitted in affiliation. The
society's own shows fully maintained their reputa-
tion as the best in London, and the one held during
November was considered to be the largest in the
United Kingdom. The contest for the challenge
shield brought forward five competing local so-
cieties, and resulted in a win for the Bromley
Chrysanthemum Society. The meetings of the
floral committee had been the means of bringing
forward a large number of new varieties of great
merit, and it is probable that during the months
of October and November these meetings will in
future be held at more frequent intervals.
Reference was also made to the retirement of Mr.
E. C. Jukes and to the presentation of an
illuminated address recording the society's
thanks for the valuable services that gentleman
had rendered as an officer of the society. It was
also pointed out that the work of the N.C.S. had
embraced the issuing of a new supplementary
catalogue and the Chrysanthemum Year-Book
recently published. The president, Sir E. Saun-
ders, still continues his warm interest in the
society's welfare, and the report concluded with
an expression of the greatest regret that the com-
mittee had learned the resolve of Mr. R. Ballan-
tine to retire from the position of chairman of the
general committee. Appointed vice-president in
1 879, he became chairman on the retirement of the
late Mr. E. Sanderson, a post he has filled with
great credit to himself and advantage to the
society. There is, however, reason to hope Mr.
Ballantine's exertions in promoting the best in-
terests of the society may be continued as a mem-
ber of the general committee.

From the financial statement it appears that
there were between six and seven hundred
members in 1894. whose subscriptions amounted to
£246 Is. 9d. Donations were received to the
extent of £41 15s. 6d. Royal Aquarium Society
contributed £294 16s. 6d. ; affiliated societies'
fees and receipts for medals supplied them was
£143 . s., and other sources of revenue bring up
the total for the past year to £847 Os. 5d. The
largest sum on the expenditure side is for prrze
money at the society's shows in September,
October, November, and December, and, with
the value of the medals awarded, amount to
£4'26 3s. Id. — the remaining items being of the
usual kind, varying in amount. A balance of
£29 10s. 2d. remains to the society's credit.

The chairman, in proposing the adoption of tho
report and balance-sheet, thought that in these
days of depression the report and increased

153

THE GAEDEN

[March 2, 1895.

financial bdance v, ere evidence of the prospeiity
of the society, especially as the past year was an
ordinary working year of the society, and not an
exceptional one like the centenary year. It was
resolved that they be adopted and printed for cir-
culation in the usual manner.

The election of officers was then proceeded
with, with the following results : President, Sir
Edwin Saunders; treasurer, Mr. J. R. Starling;
chairman of committee, Mr. B. Wynne ; vice-
chairman of committee, Mr. T. W. Sanders ;
hon. secretary, Mr. Richard Dean ; foreign cor-
responding secretary, Mr. C. Harman Payne.

One-third of the general committee retiring by
rule, but being eligible for re-election, resulted in
some fresh nominations being made, and there
were five new members elected.

The business of alterations to the rules then
occupied some attention, but the reader must
refer to the new schedule, which is already in the
printer's hands, for details. The following gentle-
men were elected vice-presidents : Mr. Coles
Child, president of the Bromley Chrysanthemum
Society, and Mr. R. Ballantine.

The Woolwich Chrysanthemum Society was ad-
milted in affiliation.

On the motion of the secretary, a vote of thanks
to the chairman was passed for his able manage-
ment of the meeting.

Scottish Pansy and Viola Association.

— This association has been formed in Glasgow
to meet monthly during the summer to consider
new varieties of Pansies and Violas, and to award
certificates to them if deemed worthy. The fol-
lowing seven gentlemen have been appointed
judges : Mr. J. Baxter, Daldowie ; Mr. Wm.
Cuthbertson, Rothesay; Mr. M. Gray, Glasgow;
Mr. M. Campbell, Blantyre ; Mr. J. Stewart,
Lennoxtown ; Mr. W. Maxwell, Glasgow ; Mr.
H. Hamilton, Lochwinnoch. The judges are to
give their verdicts by ballot. Varieties which
receive three-fourths of the total number of points
shall receive a first-class certificate, and those re-
ceiving one-half or more of the total number a
certificate of merit. Another special feature will
be the granting of special certificates for con-
stancy to varieties which obtain a first-class
certificate at three meetings. Such certificates
and decisions it is hoped will prove valuable
guides to the public and tend to set up a standard
for new varieties. The membership of the new
association is open to all on the payment of a
nominal subscription of Is., and provision is made
for the reception of flowers by post, which shall
be as care ully handled and adjudicated as if they
were jeronally staged by the exhibitors. The
following are the office-bearers, any of whom will
be glad to send a copy of constitution and rules
of the new association to interested parties :
President, Mr. Wm. Cuthbertson, Springfield,
Rothesay ; vice-president, Mr. John Baxter, Dal-
dowie ; treasurer, Mr. Jas. Robertson, Turner-
field, Crow Road, Paitick ; secretary, Mr. John
Smellie, Pansy Gardens, Busby.

The weather in West Herts.— The weather
during the past week has been less cold than in
any week since the third week in January, and at
no time did the exposed thermometer show more
than 13° of frost. The ground still continues
very cold. At 2 feet deep the temperature is only
half a degree above the lowest reading recorded
during the frost, and at 1 foot deep has as yet
risen only to the freezing point, which is 2" higher
than when at its lowest. February was extremely
cold. On two days (23rd and 24th) the highest
day temperatures just touched the average maxi-
mum reading for the month, and on three nights
the lowest night temperatures were also about
average. Otherwise the weather remained cold
throughout. Snow fell on three days and rain on
one day, so that the total rainfall for the month
comes out remarkably small— amounting only to
two- tenths of an inch, or nearly 2 inches in defect
of the February average. Dry as this month was,
there has been another February still drier during

the last forty years, viz., February, 1891. For
altogether 450 hours, or nineteen days, the direc-
tion of the wind was some point between north
and east. The record of bright sunshine was
rather above the average for February. The
recent frost may be said to have lasted from
January 21 to February 21, or for thirty-two days
without a break. That is to say, on no night
during that period did the thermometer in the
screen fail to register a temperature below the
freezing point. The double Snowdrop was first
in flower in my garden on February 26, or seven-
teen days later than its average date of flowering
in the previous eight years, and thirty-six days
later than last year. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

Notes of the Week.

Flowers from Ireland. — We have received
from Mr. T. Smith, Daisy Hill Nursery, Newry,
a gathering of early spring flowers, amongst them
Iris reticulata, I. histrioides, Crocus Imperati,
Galanthus nivalis pallid us, the handsome G. cas-
saba, and a bunch of the pretty Cyclamen coum.
The foliage of Tellima grandiflora rubra is very
fine for colour. Sent with these are Veronica
selaginoides, the green colouring quite pleasing,
forms of Erica, E. tetralix mollis and E. carnea,
Andromeda Catesbive, whose leafage is of a rich
crimson tint, several shoots of Andromedas, and
Cassinia fulvida — quite an interesting gathering
of fine-leaved things and early flowers.

Notes from Derbyshire. — February 23.
Snowdrops in the woods peeping through their
snow blanket, and the bright yellow Aconite.
Gathered a few of each just one month later than
1894. A late sown lot of Dobbie's White Turnip
are very acceptable from the open ground ; a dish
cooked and served up whole proved excellent.
Brussels Sprouts, greens, &c, are very good.
Beds of Carnations, rather pressed down with the
weight of snow, are freshening up, and look none
the worse for their two months' covering. Daffo-
dils, Gladiolus The Bride, and other early sorts,
Tulips, tea., plunged in cold pits with cocoa-nut
fibre, in spite of their being long frozen, are looking
well. — Keorge Bolas, North Derlnjshire.

Azalea linearifolia. — This curious species
differs from all other Azaleas in almost every
character but that of floral structure. It forms a
flat-headed bush 3 feet to 4 feet high, each branch
being terminated by a tuft of narrow light green
leaves, which are densely covered with hairs.
The specific name is very appropriate, as the
leaves, which vary from li inches to 3 inches in
length, are not more than one-eighth of an inch
wide at the broadest part, and taper to a point.
The flower is composed of five narrow petals,
similar in shape to the leaves, each one being
1^ inches long and of a light rosy purple. This
Azalea, which is a native of Japan, will grow out
of doors if planted in sandy peat and given a
moist and sheltered position. In the cool green-
house it grows well, and during February and
March produces its flowers in abundance. Except
for those, however, who like to have curious as
well as beautiful plants in their greenhouses, it is
scarcely showy enough to gain an entry there,
but outside it makes an interesting and* pretty
bush, and is certainly worth cultivation.

Tremandia Hugeli.— This is a dwarf, bushy
plant, usually not more than 1 foot in height,
with numerous narrow and pointed leaves not
more than half an inch long, and covered with
short hairs. The flowers are produced from the
axils of the leaves near the point of each shoot.
They are nodding, upwards of 1 inch across if
fully spread out, and of a pale, but bright purple
colour. The petals are four in number, obovate,
and, on account of their opening to only about
half the full extent, render the flower somewhat
campanulate. At present this plant does not
appear to be very well known, although consider-
able quantities have during the last few years
been grown in one at least of the large London

nurseries. It is just now coming into bloom, and
its bright flowers and neat compact habit make it
one of the prettiest of small greenhouse plants.
Unlike the majority of its fellows in the Tre-
mandra family, it is very easily grown and pro-
pagated. Its requirements are the same as for
soft- wooded Heaths, to many of which it bears a
close resemblance in habit and foliage.

Spring- flowers. — We have now had three
mild days, and the ground is thawed to the depth
of about 2 inches, but in the face of the frozen
conditions below, where nearly all bulbs and roots
must be ice-bound, the progress made by many
things is quite marvellous. I had a quiet walk
round to-day (Feb. 23) and found the following :
Winter Aconites everywhere, both in shade and
sunshine, in full flower, many kinds of Snowdrop,
Colchicum fasciculatum with numerous small
rosy flowers — in fact quite a rosy patch. This
does not appear to have suffered in the least
either in leaf or bud ; it is a pretty little species.
Cyclamen coum : about a dozen square yards of
this in a sunny aspect has really thousands of
flowers — in fact there is quite a red glow, very
good indeed ; while the same plant in shade has
not an open flower. C. alpinum, a charming
thing, has also a few open flowers. This is near
to coum, but the leaves are only about one-third
the size. Polygala Chamajbuxus and P. C. pur-
purea, whose buds simply held in reserve during
the cold, are already glowing with yellow or'
purple, as the case may be. Crocus gargaricus
has dozens of pretty little intense orange-coloured
flowers, and a few are nearly red in their inten-
sity. These, I think, were injured by the cold
in the bud state with this result. C. vitellinus
has also dozens of open flowers, but of a much
paler yellow. C. Sieberi, hyemalis, Imperati,
and Fleischeri have also plenty of buds and some
open flowers. Muscari azurea robusta is already
blue. Narcissus cyclamineus is just showing the
yellow, and will be our first Daffodil. I believe
all the early scapes of N. pallidus pr.-ecox are
killed. Pulmonaria saccharata is showing its
ruby buds. Sisyrinchium grandiflorum, about
which we annually write, is prostrate (it was very
forward, with many flowers open before the frost
set in), having been killed at the snow line. An
instance of excessive hardiness is found in Fritil-
laria liliacea, whose young growths are from 2
inches to 3 inches high and quite unharmed. In
a earden fairly stocked with hardy plants there
is really no part of the year without interest, and
the above is no mean record at this date. — T.
Smith, Newry.

Opening of Lincolii'd Inn Fields. — These
gardens were recently opened by Sir John Huttnn,
chairman of the London County Council, for the public.

Cattleya Lemoniana — Cau you give me any
information as to whjit bea*, &c, is required for
Cattleya Lemoniana. as I have a plant labelled by tins
name, and it never flowers, although it grows freely ?
Any information would greatly oblige. — J. J., Newport.

Supporting Hyacinth spikes. — Would
"J. C.," who recommends wire for this purpose,
kindly explain what kind and size he advises ? If lie
has not wire gauze at hand, perhaps he could give the
diameter in centimetres, or in thirty-seconds of an
inch. Probably talvanised wire need he only half the
diameter of copper wire to secure the same stiffness.
— W. T. B.

Names of plants. — H. Greenwood. — Dendro-
bium nobile. a very highly coloured form, hut not
nobilius, which has much darker aDd larger flowers.

3/rs. Stephen Marshall. — Amaryllis aulica.

T. G. Binvey. — Not Dendrobiurn nobile nobilius, but a
very good form. It is not particularly valuable, b' cause
of late years we have received such splendid \arittics
of this Dendrobium.

The Wild Garden : or, the Naturalisation and Natural
Sroupi ";/ 01 //" rdy Exotic Plants. w>th a chapter en the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, with wood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged, Iemy
$vo, linen cloth. Price 12s. ; well bound in half morocco, 18*
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEN.

159

No. 1216. SATURDAY, March 9,1895. Vol. XLVII

" This is an Art
"Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

Rose Garden.

ROSES UNDER GLASS.

More than once have I been asked whether
Roses under glass are better in or out of pots,
and, from a look round among my own recently,
the thought occurred that a few words upon
this matter might be of some service to inex-
perienced growers. Whether they are better in
pots or not must depend to a great extent upon
two things — what they are wanted for and the
space at disposal. The variety to be grown also
has some considerable bearing upon the matter.
We cannot cover a roof with Marechal Niel
or any other strong climber from an ordinary
pot plant. So great a quantity of growth
naturally requires a corresponding amount of
suitable soil. A box or half of a tub may serve
our purpose, but a pot will not. Such kinds as
The Bride, Niphetos, Sunset and Comtesse de
Nadaillac seem best in pots, as we can then re-
move them as they go out of flower ; nor do
these and similar varieties make sufficient wood
as a general rule to pay for turning out. Putting
the selection of varieties on one side, there is
the question of more uniform moisture and
unconfined root-run. A border of Teas in a
house 10 feet high was planted in LS,sr>, and is
still a success. For steady forcing these do very
well, but on the walls of the same house Roses
are apt to feel the effects of cold soil from the
outside, and it is very certain that many of their
roots have rambled beyond the inside soil
during those years. Our soil must lie entirely
inside and the roots kept to this if we are to
force Roses that are turned out during such
cold weather as we generally have through
January and February. It is obviously un-
reasonable to force specimens of climbing
or other Roses while many of the roots
are in cold soil, and for this reason I would
advise that all hard forced plants be grown in
pots, so that the soil may also be warm. Let
them be partially plunged if on a dry bench,
and they are better so when growing on a side
border. We do not find the soil outside in
summer so hot as the atmosphere, and if we
allow our soil to get too warm and dry, there is
danger in that direction as well as in the other
extreme. When turned out into a larger mass
of soil the roots can secure more uniform mois-
ture, and are seldom checked and crippled by
sudden drought. Under good management this
should not occur with pot plants, but still it
does occasionally happen that a few get
neglected and lay the seeds of many ills among
the whole batch. Mildew, for example, can
often be traced to this cause as well as draughts
and unreasonable ventilation. Insects of all
kinds seem to thrive more upon plants that
have received a check. Doubtless much of the
latter is fancy, seeing that our plants would
naturally be making less progress even if not
affected by insect pests ; but in the case of
mildew, I take it to be an established fact that
this disease spreads more rapidly when a plant
is out of health. The unhealthy growth and
mildew accompany one another, although we
frequently see a wonderfully thriving batch of
plants suddenly attacked in a most alarming
manner and quickly ruined ; but the primary
cause was a chill or check of some kind.

I would rather have to look after Roses
turned out into a border of soil that was all
under cover than a batch of pot plants, and it
seems to me to be more in keeping with Nature
that the soil should receive warmth from the
sui face rather than from all quarters, as is the
case when a pot plant is stood on a bench.
Roses in the former state are longer lived,
break more evenly and strongly, and grow away
more naturally. But, as I have already pointed
out, much depends upon the variety and section
of Rose cultivated. The Fairy or Lawrenceana
section, for example, are far more serviceable
when grown in pots, while the strongest
growers of Teas and Noisettes can scarcely
derive sufficient and continuous support when
limited to a pot to do themselves justice either
in growth or bloom. Ridgewood.

DARK ROSES IN POTS.

Sweet and charmingly delicate as are our Tea
and Noisette Roses when grown under glass for
winter and early spring blooming, we cannot
get the dark and glowing crimsons with maroon
shadings found only among the Hybrid Per-
petuals. A good red Rose in winter has a
wonderful charm either by itself or wh««l
brought iuto contrast with the more delicate
shaded Teas. Their perfume, too, is so distinct
from others, that both for this and colour they
should be grown more often. Granted that the
Teas are more free-blooming and a little easier to
manage, with more care in starting our Hybrid
Perpetuals steadily we may have them in good
form. Selection of varieties has considerable
bearing on this, and such as Horace Vernet,
with other bad growers, although occasionally
producing a truly magnificent bloom, are quite
useless for winter work under glass. Having
proved this, I will name half a dozen dark Hy-
brid Perpetuals that are most suited for our
purpose, and then proceed to give a brief out-
line of their culture.

General Jacqueminot is a deep red with dark
shadings, particularly free both in bloom and
growth, also exquisitely scented.

Fisher Holmes is a sturdy and uniform grower
with dark scarlet and maroon shaded flowers.
Like the above, every bud or bloom is useful and
good.

A. K. Williams does well under glass, and
affords an intense carmine -red with magenta
shadings.

Gustave Piganeau is a bright shaded carmine,
very large — in fact, one of the largest — a moderate
grower and thoroughly continuous in blooming.

1'kim e Camili.e de Rohan will give us a deep
maroon and velvety crimson, almost black at
times ; while if we want a red climber we must go
to Reine Marie Henriette.

Now for a word upon their culture. Let them
be established in pots previous to housing. The
best plan is to pot up one season and force the
next, putting them well plunged in a pit during
the first summer. Any good rich soil will do.
I like to use a fair sized pot, say one of 8 inches,
and leave 2 inches or more of surface space.
This guards against drought at the roots while
outside during the first summer, as more water
is accommodated at a time. It also leaves us
room for an efficient mulching before forcing
the following season, and we are able to cover
the base of our plant more effectively. The
value of this will be seen as the season advances,
for it is essential that the eyes around the base
should be encouraged to break strongly, and not
only supply late flowers, but produce valuable
wood for the third season.

Now about pruning. Do not study this too
much, but cut out spray-like wood first, and then

fix any very healthy and stout shoot in as hori-
zontal a manner as you can. Much depends,
too, upon the size of your plant and pot. As
the young growth advances the shoots can easily
be tied out to short sticks, somewhat in the same
way as fancy and show Pelargoniums. It is fatal
to hurry a H. Perpetual Rose, especially at the
first. When the buds can be discerned in the
new growth we may afford more heat, and now
is the best time also for weak liquid manures.
Any kind will do ; indeed, it is advantageous to
change, but be sure it is weak and freely sup-
plied in preference to stronger and rarer doses.
The ordinary culture for Roses under glass, and
which has been so often given in these pages,
will suit very well beyond this. It is a question
of varieties and steady treatment. R.

Kitchen Garden.

DIFFICULTIES WITH ONIONS.
Latterly I have spent much time among amateur
gardeners, this including cottagers, and have
made it part of my business to find out what, they
most often fail with. That that there are plenty
failures, partial or otherwise, need hardly be
stated, but as yet it is Onions that seem to batlie
my friends the most, and I get more inquiries
about these than upon any other class of vegetables.
To the ravages of the Onion maggot must be at-
tributed most failures, but mildew also has to bo
reckoned with in some districts, while I also found
out that some of the least experienced growers
were under the impression that Onions could be
grown on poor ground without manure. So
they can if only wanted for pickling. In all
probability, however, if the ground was well pre-
pared for Onions and more liberal treatment
accorded generally, there would be far fewer com-
plaints of failure from any cause. If grown
quickly and strongly the Onion maggot would
have less time to work destruction, as they are al-
most powerless against strong or nearly fully
grown plants, and the mildew is also most
destructive among backward plants. Chemical
manures and soot, in addition to stimulating a
rapid growth of plant, are also obnoxious to insects
generally, and a free use of soot alone has been
the means of saving many crops. Cottagers, in
particular, fail to realise what a valuable manure,
insecticide, and disinfectant they have in soot. If
they do employ a chimney-sweep they allow the
latter to carry away the soot, while in very many
cases the chimneys are never swept, but, in
defiance of all laws, are burnt out as often as need
be. Soot can usually be brought at the rate of
8d. per bushel, and one peck of it is enough to
dress a square rod of ground. This should be
forked lightly into the surface prior to sowing the
seed, and those who mean having a full crop of
fine Onions would only regard the soot as supple-
mentary, good solid manure being previously dug
in at the rate of three barrow-loads to the square
rod. When I had to contend with the Onion
maggot, common salt was used at the same time
as the soot at the rate of 4 lbs. to the square rod,
while road grit was also liberally distributed over
the ground and then lightly forked in. Salt,
however, is not suitable for clayey soils, as it first
causes them to run badly when it is wet, and then
crack seriously in dry weather, road grit being
also of most service in solidifying lighter soils. As
it happens, it is the lighter soils that are most in-
fested by the Onion fly and its progeny, those that
set well, that is to say run together rather on the
surface, offering fewer facilities for the movements
of the fly and maggots. In bad cases a second
dressing of soot at half the previous rate should
be given when the rows of plants are well defined,
and this be lightly stirred in with a Dutch hoe.
For light soils, half as much as previously used of
salt may be added to the soot, or, better still,
nitrate of soda be used instead at the rate of 1 lb.
per square yard, sowing along the lines of plants

160

THE GARDEN.

[March 9, 1895

and between them rather than recklessly broadcast.
For heavier soils, sulphate of ammonia in a well
pulverised state may be substituted for the nitrate.
It will be seen that I do not favour broadcast
sowing, distributing the seed very thinly along
shallow drills drawn from 10 inches to 12 inches
apart being the most economical and the best in
every way. Having to thin heavily is always un-
fortunate, as it is very prejudicial to those that are
left and also seems to favour the increase of
Onion maggots. Always thin early, or as soon as
the plants can be drawn, but if they are not more
than 3 inches apart, leave the lot, and if a little
thicker than that, it will not much matter unless
extra fine roots are desired. It is the bunches of
plants that I object to.

Growers of exhibition Onions are not nearly so
much troubled by the Onion maggot as are those
who take less pains with their crops. In their
case success is due not merely to the extra pre-
paration of the ground in the shape of free
manuring and deep digging, but they also adopt
the practice of raising all the plants they require
under glass, sowing the seeds in heat early in
February. Several hundred plants can be raised
in a single box, and these, when about 4 inches
high and after being duly hardened off, should be
planted out from 4 inches to 6 inches apart in
lines 12 inches apart. They would be well ahead
of any obtained by sowing in the open ground late
in February or early in March, and more than
maintain their lead. These early-raised, trans
planted Onions not only attain a great size, but
they are usually of perfect form, mature early, and
keep well accordingly. The most successful
cultivators grow the new large varieties to an
enormous size, so much so, that they are sometimes
mistaken for imported Onions. Ailsa Craig when
weighing from 3 lbs. to 5 lbs. , as they frequently do,
most resemble Portuguese Onions, being of much
the same shape as those imported. Sandy Prize
and Anglo-White Spanish also grow to a great
size, but are of more perfect form. When seeds
of these rather expensive varieties are sown in
heat, all or nearly all germinate, and every plant
is saved. Sown in the open, there are almost
certain to be some losses, and that is another
point in favour of sowing in boxes and transplant
ing. The Onion maggot is bad enough to con-
tend with, but in some gardens mildew is even
more to be feared. A change of site and good
culture are to a certain extent preventives of the
former, but with mildew a change of site is
apparently of no avail, and once it starts it is
li ible to over-run a large bed in a few hours, the
wi id assisting to spread the disease. Some
growers are of opinion that it is analagous to one
of the diseases that sometimes over-run Potatoes,
aid that it is unwise to locate the Onion bed near
t) Potatoes. Authoiities are quite of opinion
fiere is no remedy for mildew in Onions once it is
fi mly established, and all measures taken should
t lerefore, be of a preventive nature. A very
siccessful grower of my acquaintance who is
practising gardening in a district where the
disease works sad havoc among the Onions is not
troubled with it in the least, and attributes his
immunity to the rough-and-ready method he has
of drenching the rows with soapsuds, sewage
water, liquid manure or anything else he can get
of a somewhat similar nature, very frequently
during the early part of the summer. This causes
the Onions to grow so robust as to practically
render them mildew-proof. Others find a mixture
of newly-slaked lime, soot, and flowers of sulphur
efficacious, only it has to be applied daily in wet
weather, owing to its failing to stick. Spraying
with Bordeaux mixture, a remedy for Potato
disease, is also worthy of a trial on Onion beds,
only unfortunately this is not well within the
reach of cottagers and most amateurs. As an
horticultural instructor, it will be part of my
duty to try this remedy, and as I propose using
it in various centres, something definite as well as
instructive should be arrived at. A Rover.

■Notes on L ittuc3r.— " W. G. C.'s" seltction
of Lettices (p. SO) is a reliable and conprehen-

sive one, but I venture to add two Cabbage varie-
ties, viz., Golden Queen and New York, the for-
mer for forcing and early use excelling Paris
Green, and the latter superior to any kind I have
grown for summer, but, nevertheless, a variety
that seems little known. I am aware these are
strong assertions, but I hope " W. G. C." will
give both a trial ; if he does, I feel certain he will
confirm my opinion. — J. R.

Two good Celeries. — Celery Leicester Red
undoubtedly deserves the word of praise " J. C."
(p. 80) accords it, for it possesses all the good
qualities ascribed to it, and should be largely
grown for main crop. Carter's Incomparable
Crimson is excellent in every way for the latest
crop, unsurpassed for crispness and nutty flavour,
and the latest in "running" of any variety I am
acquainted with. If it has a fault at all it is its
extreme brittleness, requiring the utmost care in
handling to prevent the sticks from being broken.
I unhesitatingly recommend it as a sterling late
variety. — J. U., Merioneth.

Early Carrots. — A good deal has been written
of late respecting Carrots and the earliness of
certain varieties. I have previously written in
praise of the new variety Market Favourite, and
would urge all those who grow them in frames or
on early borders to give it a trial. I used to
think the old Nantes Horn would never be beaten
foi speed, but grown under exactly the same con-
ditions either in frames or in the open, Market
Favourite is ready for drawing a fortnight earlier.
It is certainly not so deep in colour, but where
earliness is a consideration this is not of such im-
portance. It is of good length and thickness,
very symmetrical, and without much core. Having
rather a large top, it requires plenty of room. —
J. Crawford.

Sowing Early Parsnips. — Many growers of
Parsnips will be anxious about the state of the
soil, as we are told that the sooner the seed is in
the ground the better, but I fail to see why such
should be the case. I do not grow for show, as we
do not want roots a yard long, in fact have no
means of cooking them. Medium-sized roots are
of better flavour than large ones, as when seed is
sown early in April, that is along with the main
crop of Carrots, roots 18 inches long with a
good thickness can be secured by autumn. As
regards variety, I think the Student superior to the
Hollow Crowned. It is of good flavour, and being
a medium-sized root is certainly the best variety
for private gardens. For keeping till late in the
spring I often sow a little seed in the end of April
or early in May, and do not lift, but leave in the
soil. The roots are valuable, and, being tender,
much liked in the kitchen. — S. M.

Late Purple Sprouting Broccoli. — The
plants sown the first week in May have passed
through the very severe weather we have expe-
rienced without injury, whereas the earlier kinds
sown in March are killed to the ground. I am
aware the late kind is not so nice looking as the
white, though this latter is advised in seed cata-
logues to be sown for use in April ; but in such
seasons as we have experienced I fear there are
few white kinds left, unless much sheltered. Even
the Early Purple form is much injured. The Late
Purple is a tall, large grower when sown too early
or crowded in its earlier stages, and, as is well
known, such plants suffer most ; hence the neces-
sity of growing compact plants and as firm as
possible. This kind is certainly much hardier
than any other and of good quality when cooked.
It is one of the first vegetables to start into growth
after severe frost, giving a lot of material for weeks
when green vegetables are valuable. To get a
long succession plant in different positions. If a
north border can be spared the supply is much
later, and in all cases I have found that the Kales
give the best results when grown as hardy as
possible.— S. H. B.

Tuberous Artichokes.— Accepting the tuber-
ous-rooted Stachys as an Artichoke, we have
made during the past few years at least a couple
of notable additions to this hardy, but by no
means popular section of edible roots. The first,

though latest, is the white Artichoke of the
Helianthus family, the other being the Stachys or
Chinese Artichoke. Everyone now admits that
the White Jerusalem variety is much superior to
the old brown-tubered form in shape and in
flavour, as well as quality of flesh. Some gar-
deners even go so far as to say that there is in re-
spect of flesh quality no comparison between the
two, but we all know what great differences arc
found in diverse methods of cooking. Still, with-
out being more prolific, the white form is un-
doubtedly a considerable improvement. Jerusa-
lem Artichokes should be, like Parsnips, cooked
in very little water, so as to have the flesh melted
rather than boiled ; also they should be served,
whether whole or mashed, as dry as well can be.
The Steel, ys tuberifera evidently owes much of its
popularity, or lack of it, to cooking. That the
tubers are easily grown is evident, and the plea
that once in the ground it is hard to destroy
seems out of place, as where trouble is given the
year following the growth of a crop, a free use of
the hoe on the top would soon destroy them.
The roots are best left in the ground all the
winter, but a portion of a bed should be covered
up with litter, so as to enable access to be ob-
tained. When lifted, the roots should be thrown
into water to exclude air and preserve whiteness,
then gently boiled, and later drained dry, then
fried in butter, some being partly browned, and
then served with sauce or gravy. So treated,
they constitute a most delicious dish, one that
thousands would like to have often during the
winter months. — A. D.

"Winnigstadt Cabbage. — Although I have
grown this excellent Cabbage extensively for
many j-ears, I have happily not found the difficulty
" G. W." mentions (page 40) of getting the true
stock. It is a splendid autumn and winter
variety for supplying the demand during those
seasons. The quality is exceptional, and it doe3
remarkably well on light soils. — J. R.

Lee's Cabbage Lettuce. — For the winter
and coming in early for use in the spring this
Cabbage Lettuce can be highly recommended.
During April and May excellent heads of much
crispness are obtained from autumn sowings upon
warm south borders. — J. R.

Early Potatoes. — Without doubt it repass
any gardener well to incur the trouble and ex-
pense incidental to erecting a light temporary
framework or trellis over a warm border after
having planted the ground somewhat closely with
dwarf early Potatoes. If the sets have been first
sprouted in gentle warmth and in full light, then
disbudded to one, or at the most two sprouts,
they are in the best possible condition for plant-
ing. The border should have worked in during
the planting some half-heated short manure and
leaves, as through that agency growth is stimu-
lated. If such plantings be made about the
middle of February, tops are well through the
ground in three weeks, and over the trellis or
framework erected there should be drawn at night
a stout canvas cover, or have mats thrown over to
preserve warmth in the soil, and later to protect
the tender tops from frost. If the sets have been
planted 6 inches in depth and in rows IS inches
apart, earthing will be impossible, and indeed
not required. In such a way it will be easy to
have fine young Potatoes several weeks before
they can be dug from unprotected borders. A
few sorts specially suitable for this form of cul-
ture are Ringleader, Laxton's Early, Sutton's A 1,
Veitch's Ashleaf, Sharpe's Victor, Midsummer
Kidney, all good, having shortish tops and pre-
cocious croppers. We have not given so much
attention to the first early section of Potatoes as
to later ones, but there can be no doubt that
the production of any variety that shows in the
direction of short tops and exceptionally early
tubering special excellence is indeed a great gain.
The growth of some of these sorts in pots in early
vineries, Peach houses, or in frames always re-
pays, though in that case the tuber production is
relatively much below that of open-air plantings.
—A. D.

Mar.h 9, 18b5]

THE GARDEN

161

Chrysanthemums.

ANEMONE-FLOWERED CHRYSAN-
THEMUMS.
In The Garden for November 24 last 1 took
the opportunity (p. 440) of drawing attention
to some of the most attractive forms of this
section which had then just recently been
staged at the National Chrysanthemum Society's
exhibition at the Aquarium. Anemone Chry-
santhemums have bt;en so long and so steadily

that the disc be high, certainly not less in form
than half a globe ; at the most but a trifle more
than that."

Of the varieties that were generally in culti-
vation fifteen years ago when 1 first took up the
cultivation of the flower, Acquisition, Bijou,
Fleur de Marie, Gliick, Georges Sand, King of
Anemones, Louis Bonamy, Lady Margaret,
Mme. Goderau, Mrs. Pethers, and Prince of
Anemones were, perhaps, some of the most
popular, and belong to a distinct type. In later
years these old sorts seem to have been em-
ployed by the seedling raisers of France and

New Japanese Anemnne Chrysanthemum, Ruler Haggard. From a photograph sent by
Mr. H. J. Jones, Ryecroj't Nursery, Lewisham.

the latest of the new type. Looked at as a
Japanese or hybrid Anemone, as they were first
called, it is probably one of the best, and likely
as an exhibition or a decorative flower to be of
some value. It is a seedling of English origin,
having been raised by Mr. H. J. Jones, of
Lewisham, in 1893 and distributed by him in the
spring of last year. It was flowered in the Rye-
croft Nursery last autumn with considerable
success, and was a rather bold, striking-looking
variety of its kind, although, to my taste, less
charming than the new French seedling Junon,
on view there at the same time. On November
21 the flower bearing the distinguished novelist's
name was submitted to the floral committee,
and from my notes of that meeting the following
description is extracted : Very long guard florets
of medium width, good centre, tubes rather
loose, deeply toothed and open at tips, colour
pinkish white, centre deep rose, shaded yellow,
very large blooms.

Some of the newer forms of the Japanese
Anemone section will no doubt find admirers
among the flower-loving community of the pre-
sent generation, but the old school florists
are firmly wedded to their idea of " properties,"
and to these the Japanese Anemone does not
conform.

Probably the first of the group was Duchess
of Edinburgh, introduced by Messrs. Veitch
and Sons in 1875, and this remained for some
years the only variety of the kind. Some few
years later Fabian de Mediana, Mme. Berthe
Pigny, Mme. Clos, Mme. Theruse Clos, Mile.
Cabrol, Marguerite Villageoise, Somr Dorothee
Souille, Souvenir de Lardenne and Timbale
d'Argent followed, and were pretty generally
grown and shown, but these are now giving way
toother introductions of the same kind. The
gieat fault of the Japanese Anemone Chrysan-
themum is its tendency to run to lilac or mauve
shades of colour. Good crimsons and yellows
would undoubtedly be a distinct gain, and in
the latter the best example at present is John
Bunyan. C. Harhan-Payne.

cultivated by a rather smill body of growers,
and are so interesting as a group, that I have
long been surprised to find that the rate of pro-
gress they have made is out of all proportion to
their merits. When I say this I ought, perhaps,
to explain that by the word "progress " I mean
improvement in colour and in size only, for in
form it is doubtful if any real improvement can
be made considering the type of many of the
old exhibition sorts. In the article above re-
ferred to will be found what may be taken as a
generally accepted definition of an Anemone
Chrysanthemum, although through an error of
punctuation there is some little ambiguity in
the second paragraph, the third sentence of
which should read as follows: "It is essential

America for the p'irpose of cros»ing with the
Japanese Chrysanthemum, with the result that
many of the modern sorts have lost the neatness
of form that distinguished their predecessors.
We have now many Anemone Chrysanthemums
of large size with long, ragged, drooping guard
florets and discs composed of loose, open, tubular
florets, that may be valuable so far as size is con-
cerned, but which are not to be compared in
other respects with the old Chinese type. Some
of these novelties have really no pretence to the
semi-spherical disc at all, and wanting this,
upon which the beauty of an Anemone so much
depends, they want all.

The variety Rider Haggard, which is repro-
duced here in a much reduced form, is one of

CHRYSANTHEMUM W. H. LINCOLN.

I am at a loss to understand how Mr. J. C. Tallack
(p. 128) arrives at the conclusion that my note
on the above Chrysanthemum (p. 104) bears out
his contention (p. 58) that, when growing this
variety for the production of cut blooms.disbudding
is an absolute necessity. In the instance cited by me
I was careful to point out that, although no disbud-
ding had been practised, the individual flowers were
of good size, as, owing to the fact of the sap having
been monopolised by the centre bloom on each
shoot, some of the side buds had developed. Your
correspondent says "I prefer to do my own dis-
budding, and do not leave it in this way to out-
raged Nature." How Dame Nature can be "out-
raged " by being left in every way to her own
devices it would, I imagine, be difficult even for
Mr. Tallack himself to explain. " To outrage " is
of necessity a verb of action. That there was an
absence of action in the case referred to by me
that might possibly have merited the appellation
of neglect I admit, but I did not observe that
unassisted Nature (if I may be allowed to sub-
stitute the term "unassisted" for "outraged")
had acted as though aggrieved by the omission of
that beneficent mutilation advocated by Mr.
Tallack. In fact, I considered, and still consider,
that the results obtained were eminently satis-
factory. I am not finding fault with the system
of taking cuttings and potting them on. That is
doubtless the most sure course to pursue, but at
the same time it must be remembered that it is a
course which entails a considerable amount of
labour in potting, stopping, disbudding, and
watering ; whereas that of planting out the old
stool and potting it up in October reduces the
labour to a minimum, and in growing for market

1G2

THE GARDEN"

[March 9, 18P5.

the labour bill has to be taken into consideration.
The rough and ready way, in one case at all events,
has answered well. Whether it can be depended
upon to produce equally good results when carried
out on a large scale I cannot say, but I hope this
year to give both methods a fair trial, in order to
be in a position to form a better opinion as to
their respective values. When I wrote that a
nurseryman had offered 4s. for the plant, I
should have mentioned that this offer was for the
flowers alone, and did not include the pot. Mr.
Tallack ridicules the idea that this price, or even
double, viz., 8s., for the forty-eight blooms (averag-
ing 3J inches in diameter) would be remunerative.
I can only say that thousands of such blooms were,
to my knowledge, sold at less than Is. a dozen
last Christmastide, and I should hold the whole-
sale grower who received over 2s. per dozen par-
ticularly fortunate, as this price would mean at
least 3d. per bloom retail. Naturally, the profit
depends largely upon the amount of labour ex-
pended on the plants during their period of growth,
and where the sum total of this is represented by
potting up and housing two months before the
blooms are cut, 4s. per plant should leave a fair
margin ; and should Ss. be obtained, the grower,
while failing to excite Mr. J. C. Tallack's envy,
would assuredly receive the congratulations of
S. W. F.

This serves two useful pu rposes. Cul ti vated

on the orthodox plan of carrying three blooms upon
each plant with one main stem, it is one of the
best of early exhibition varieties. Managed upon
the topping system, it is one of the best if not the
very best varieties with yellow flowers for late
work. When I say late I do not mean after
Christmas, but as a December-flowering variety it
is especially valuable. One market grower of ray
acquaintance grew several thousands of it last year,
and intends to treble the number for the next
flowering season — in fact has decided to grow no
other yellow Chrysanthemum in quantity. — E. M.

Trees and Shrubs.

RARE TREES AT ESHER PLACE.
This beautiful and historic park, the residence of
Sir Edgar Vincent, K.C.B., is within eas}' access
of the metropolis, and the grounds contain not
only unusually fine old specimens of our forest
trees, but also a representative collection of some
of the rarer conifers. The Oaks and Beeches are
thriving unusually well in the light sandy soil of
which the park is for the greater part composed,
and not a few of these contain a large quantity
of excellent timber, and rise with clean and well-
rounded boles to from 70 feet to 90 feet in height.
Hard by the famous Wolsey Tower may be seen
many excellent examples of the English Elm, and
which in the dampish alluvial deposit seem to
find all that is necessary for their perfect develop-
ment. Many of these reach to 90 feet, with clean
columnar stems that girth in some instances fully
l'i feet at a yard from the ground.

The pride of Esher is, however, its fine old
Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), a specimen
without a rival in this country, whether as re-
gards size of stem or spread of its ponderous
branches. At 3 feet from ground level the fluted
stem girths 18 feet 7 inches, while the branches
cover a spread of 78 feet in diameter. It
is in the rudest health, as is amply demon-
strated by the great wealth of the brightest
and freshest of foliage and the entire absence of
dead or dying limbs. When in full flower this
tree is an object of unusual interest and beauty,
the blooms being produced in almost extravagant
abundance, while at present the curiously-formed,
Cucumber-like fruit renders the tree conspicuous
in a marked degree. The long and lithe branches
sweep the greensward in an easy and graceful
manner and add quite a charm to the neatly-kept
lawn. On account of the far-spreading limbs,
many of which are when in full leafage fully a
couple of tons in weight, every care has been
bestowed so as to minimise the chance of any

of these splitting away from the main trunk,
and iron rods have just now been added to
the props previously in use, thus rendering the
immense head perfectly safe for many a year to
come.

At no great distance from the Tulip tree may be
seen an unusually fine old specimen of Magnolia
granditlora, and which for some time back has
been an object of general admiration on account
of the large numbers of perfectly developed
flowers with which the tree has been studded.
Usually we find this particular species of Magnolia
occupying some cosy corner by the wall side, it
not being considered sufficiently hardy to use as a
standard unless, indeed, in the milder portions of
Southern England. The Esher specimen, how-
ever, stands quite alone, and looks healthy and
happy in its isolated position. Many of the
flowers are 8 inches in diameter, almost pure
white and deliciously fragrant, though much too
powerful for placing in a living room. It is
by no means common to find the Indian Cedar
(Cedrus Deodara) in cone, yet a well-furnished
specimen in the park is at present bearing large
numbers of full-sized and perfectly developed
fruit.

The pinetum is also well worthy of a visit, for
there may be seen such rare trees as Cunning-
hamia lanceolata, the dwarf Weymouth Pine
(Pinus Strobus nana), the weeping Indian Juniper
(Juniperus reourva), the curious dwarf Mountain
Pine (P. Mughus), the Canadian Hemlock Spruce
(Tsuga canadensis), as well as numerous species
of the less common Junipers. Such large grow-
ing trees as the Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga Doug-
lasi), the Mammoth Tree(Wellingtoniagigantea),
Sequoia sempervirens, Thuja gigantea, Picea
Menziesi, and the Austrian and Corsican Pines
(P. austriaca and P. Laricio) are represented by
finely developed specimens, the two latter being
of unusual height and girth of stem. The curious
and rare P. longifolia is likewise well represented.

Amongst shrubs, the Strawberry Tree (Arbutus
unedo) flowers and produces fruit freely, and
seems quite at home in the light sandy soil in
which it has been planted. The Myrtle may also
be seen growing freely enough against the garden
wall, and where, judging from its size, it must
have been for very many years. Laurustinus
flowers freely, and attains to such a size as we
rarely see except in the ozone-laden atmosphere by
the seaside. Peat-loving plants also grow fairly
well, and not a few good examples of the commonly
cultivated Azaleas and Rhododendrons are to
be found. The old Mulberry tree in the kitchen
garden is worthy of note, it being a robust,
healthy specimen, with as fine a head of dark
green foliage, just now relieved by the showy
fruit, as could be wished for.

Altogether the trees and shrubs at Esher Place
are of unusual interest, and the collection will
shortly be augmented by other worthy represen-
tatives of the family. A. D. Webster.

Magnolia macrophylla. — The interesting
and exhaustive article on the Magnolia family
that appeared a short time back in The Garden
would seem to render any reference to individual
members of that family somewhat superfluous.
Yet I should like to call attention to the par-
ticular kind named at the head of this note,
because, although its unique foliage renders it spe-
cially valuable for ornamental planting, it seems
to be a comparatively unknown tree. Although
requiring a sheltered spot it is perfectly hardy,
the specimen here being rather over 30 feet high.
In the distance the foliage looks almost like small
leaves of the Musa, individual leaves averaging
15 inches in length by 6 inches in breadth, and
there is a glaucous under-surface, reminding one
somewhat of the Eucalyptus family. The flower is
remarkable for its size, being from S inches to 10
inches in diameter, but otherwise has nothing
to recommend it. The petals are very flimsy and
dirty white in colour. It is a deciduous tree, late
in putting on its foliage, and given a mild autumn,
a proportionately late leaf-shedder, more so than
its smaller foliaged allies, as, for instance, acu-

minata and glauca. I should like to recommend
it to the notice of planters as an ornamental tree
for small lawns. Planted, for instance, at the head
of an open glade, where it is backed by trees of
larger growth, it is a wonderfully distinct and
striking feature. In common with other beautiful
foliaged trees, it is certain that it might be
used with advantage where unique summer foliage
is required in lieu of costly and tender sub-
tropicals. The paragraph noting its hardiness,
and, at the same time, the necessity for a shel-
tered spot, may read contradictory, but it has
reference to shelter from wind in exposed situa-
tions. Heavy gales are apt to split and tear the
foliage and to spoil the general appearance of
the tree. — E. Btrreix, C'laremont.

FAIR WEATHER EVERGREENS.

A friend writes from Ireland: "Six inches of
snow here now and 10° to 15° of frost nightly.
Half-hardy things will go off by the hundred, but
it is a blessing to get a garden purged, as it were,
every ten or fifteen years at least." We do not look
upon this kind of prospect with at all the same
complacency as our friend, because of the ugliness
which must result from deaths in severe winters,
owing to our very common practice of planting so
many evergreens. If they were really hardy ever-
greens it would matter less, but more than half of
them are not hardy in very hard winters, except
it maybe in sheltered valleys and light soils of the
English sea coast. There is so much sea coast,
however, as to allow a large margin for escape,
but even our commonest evergreens are killed in
the central parts of the country both in Ireland
and England, not excepting the common Laurel.
This, however, we could well spare, because in
many places we have ten times too much of it.
No doubt some of the evergreens that we try to
have, and occasionally suffer so much for, are
worth a chance, such as the Bay (which is the true
Laurel) and the Laurustinus, though we have seen
these killed on the shore, even in warm Sussex.
The lesson to be learned from such winters is that
those who plant their gardens with any thought
of anything but the common nurseryman's rub-
bishing mixture — Privet, Laurel, &c. — should re-
member that there are hardy evergreens as well as
tender evergreens, and that the noblest of them
are natives of Britain, like Holly, Yew, Ivy and
Juniper. It is difficult to pick out of other
countries anything quite as good as these until we
go to the Pines, like the Silver Fir and the Cedar
of Lebanon, because a good many of the Californian
conifers are not tit to endure such winters as this,
and even the Corsican Fir, with all its good quali-
ties, is occasionally killed towards the north of
Prance. Many Californian conifers will do in
various parts of the country. Some places are
kinder to the Douglas Fir and the Wellingtonia
than others, and here and there they seem to do
very well; but this fact is not nearry so important
for us as to find out the evergreens of other
countries that may really be trusted in ours.
Considering the cost and care of choice planta-
tions, it is a poor return to wake up some spring
morning and find them all either dead or half way
to it.

Another friend writes from France that at
Cannes the gardens have been "destroyed by 8°
(C. ) of frost and 1 foot of snow. People there
never saw such a calamity." This should be a
lesson to us as well as to the people of the south
of France, who are continually trying to give to
their hard white villas an absurdly tropical look
with all sorts of delicate Palms and Aloes, instead
of developing the many beautiful things, not
omitting their own Heaths and native bushes and
trees like Ilex, which are quite hardy and beauti-
ful there. One of the few really beautiful gar-
dens we ever saw there was that of the Comte de
Paris, which was almost abandoned to the tree,
Heath, and other delightful plants of the coast.
However, people rarely think of the beautiful
things of their own country, but are always trying
how far they may go with exotics, and so have to
pa}' for their ways now and then. — Field.

March 9, 1895]

THE GARDEN.

163

Stove and Greenhouse.

LACHENALIAS IN BASKETS.

Of late years more attention has been paid to
Lachenalias, so that we have some beautiful
hybrids and seedliDgs quite distinct from the
older forms. The kind illustrated (Lachenalia
tricolor) makes a charming basket nlant, and
Lachenalias are not grown in this way so much
as they deserve. We have so few flowering plants
at this season of the year which do well in
baskets, that it is surprising the stronger- growing
varieties are not more grown in this way, the
flowers lasting long and the plants of simple
culture. The illustration depicts a charming
basket of Lachenalias, the drooping leaves and
flower-spikes having a more natural aspect than

grown in baskets give ample width between the
wires, as the growths can readily push out at the
sides of the basket. I have some very light
baskets, home-made, with a few cross supports
and strong rim, the other portion being 2-inch
wire netting. A good effect can be got by using
two or three varieties if sorts are selected
which bloom at the same time. The baskets
should be lined with fresh Sphagnum Moss. I
prefer live Moss, as if the bottom of the basket
be damped when suspended, it presents a neater
appearance than dried Moss. Use a compost of
turfy loam, dried cow manure and sharp sand.
If the loam be heavy, use a portion of
leaf soil. Lachenalias should be put into
boxes or pots in August before the new root-
growth commences. Give free drainage and
grow them in a cool house or frame, as they

Lachenalia tricolor in a hanging basket. Engraved for The Garden from a
photograph sent by Mr. F. II. D, Kcmplen, Dunedm, N.Z.

when the plants are grown in pots. For baskets.
L. tricolor is one of the best, having bold leaves,
dark green spotted with dull purple, and about
1 foot in length when the bulbs are well grown.
This kind blooms early in March, the flowers
being of bright colour. L. Nelsoni and L. luteola
bloom early and are of great beauty, being
in advance of the one illustrated, so a succession
of flower is obtained. These kinds differ in the
colour of the bloom, the first named being a newer
hybrid than L. tricolor and has golden yellow
flowers. L. luteola is well worth growing in all
collections. L. pendula is of more drooping habit
than those named, the flowers being of a deep
purple-red and yellow colour, set on a stout
stalk and drooping. This is one of the showiest
of the species, but not better than tricolor for
baskets. There are many others, but those
named are best for baskets. Lachenalias can
be grown in frames and with little heat. When

winter best in a structure just free of frost.
The plants in baskets are placed in a cold
fernery, pot plants being grown on a cool ash
bottom in cold frames. Those who may not
have the space to grow these in baskets at the
start may readily use 9-inch or 12-inch pans and
then place in shallow baskets in January, or the
pans may be suspended. It is not necessary to
disturb the plants in baskets every season, as if
they are well fed they like frequent supplies of
liquid manure when growing. Dip the pans or
baskets in water once or twice a week and thus
keep the flowers dry. When in bloom Lachen-
alias enjoy a cool house, plenty of light and mois-
ture after flowering. They require ripening by
free exposure to l'ght and less water. When
the leaves die away store them as cool as pos-
sible, keeping quite dry till potting time, when
the bulbs should be shaken out, sorted into sizes
and potted up. W.

TREE CARNATIONS.
The note by " J. C." at p. 128 suggests a few re-
marks on this, one of the sweetest and most desir-
able of all our garden plants. Duke of York is
the most beautiful of all the Tree Carnations in
its colour of rich deep crimson, surpassing Uriah
Pike. It is a taller growing plant and does not
produce so many flowers. The flowers are well
formed and not very liable to burst. "J. C."
seems to fancy that Uriah Pike will not make
much "grass." This surmise is incorrect. Uriah
Pike makes grass more freely than most of the
Tree Carnations, but in its growth it does not
run up so freely as some others ; consequently it
does not produce pipings very freely from the
main stem. Although I much prefer the indi-
vidual flowers of Duke of York to those of Uriah
Pike, still in some respects the latter may be
considered quite as valuable for the garden. I
do not disparage it, and in our own garden we
grow equal quantities of both, and recommend
my friends to grow both of them.

I am growing as many as I can get of the lovely
pink variety Mile. Terese Franco. It is an
Italian seedling, and it grows very freely, being
also most useful for winter blooming. I do not
know any white variety more free than Mile.
Carle ; the flowers will occasionally come with a
slight dash or line of white in the petals, but
when the flowers open at midwinter or in Janu-
ary and February, they are generally pure white.
More vigorous in growth, but producing fewer
flowers, are Purity and Mrs. Moore ; they re-
semble one another greatly, and I do not know
that it is necessary to grow both. They produce
ovely pure white flowers. I must not omit Miss
Joliffe, although I grow one under the name of
Miss Joliffe Improved. How it came to be im-
proved I cannot say, but the improvement seems
to be on paper only. Winter Cheer is yet (I
think) the best scarlet for flowering in winter, but
a variety named Zouave gives larger and brighter
flowers in spring. Mrs. Llewelyn is & very hand-
some pink or rose-coloured variety, and alto-
gether distinct from Miss Joliffe or Terese Franco.
It does not produce so many flowers, nor is it
so good for midwinter flowering, but lovely in
the spring months.

Now is the time to get up a good stock of plants
by cuttings or " pipings," to use the phrase of the
florists. Shakespeare uses a better word, " slips."
"I'll not put dibble in earth to plant one slip of
them," quoth Perdita, but she had lost her temper,
for were they not " the fairest flowers o' the
season '!" They are slips ; the small growths slipped
off from the axils of the leaves are the best, and
they are merely dibbled into small well drained
pots of fine sandy soil, the soil being pressed
firmly around the base cf the slips. At this time of
the year they do best in a propagating house with
a little bottom-heat ; and to make sure of their
striking well, they ought to be placed in a frame
or glass light inside the house, but if none of
these appliances are available, a square or two of
glass should be laid on the tops of the labels. The
object is to retain the moisture about the slips
until they have formed roots. Practical gardeners
know well how to manage such slips and the
young plants after they are repotted by carefully
inuring them to a light, airy greenhouse tempera-
ture, and exposing them to the frames and ulti-
mately to the open air, for these slips put in now
will not produce their flowers untd late in the
autumn and winter. Amateurs and others with
but little experience in the culture of any kinds of
plants make mistakes, which, though apparently
very trivial to all appearance, may be productive
of disaster. They are most likely to err in subject-
ing the young and tender plants too suddenly to
changes of temperature, which may give them a
check from which they would not be likely to
recover. Another cause whereby injury might
result to the plants is carelessness in repotting
them. The newly-formed roots are, indeed, very
tender, and more brittle than glass or eggshell
porcelain, so that great care is necessary in plant-
ing each one separately in what are termed thumb
pots. I plunge the pots in bottom-heat again for

166

THE GAIIDEX.

L-Ma.ch 9, 1895.

planting in beds are many of them admirably
suited. I allude to such as Early Gem, ferrugi-
neum, fragrans, and others of like habit. Andro-
medas and Kalmias in the atmosphere of towns
and cities are of none too thriving a character.
Where they will succeed, Andromeda japonica, A.
arborea, and A. speciosa, with Kalmia angusti-
folia pumila and K. a. rubra, K. glauca and K.
latifolia, with its variety K. 1. myrtifolia, are all
worthy of planting in beds. To these the hardy
Heaths and Menziesias will form excellent edgings.
Such beds also form capital positions for growing
different varieties of Lilium, including L. aura-
tum. Aralia Sieboldi must not be overlooked for
use as specimens or to group with other sub-
tropical plants (it may not be hardy in all posi-
tions). Mahonia Aquifolium may be turned to good
account for shady spots where an attempt to grow
tender plants would end in failure. Daphne
Cneorum should be added to the list with
the dwarf Rhododendrons. Escallonia macran-
tha can be used for beds by pegging it
down if that be desirable. E. Phillipiana is
another species that can be recommended. In
Euonymus radicans variegatus we have a most
valuable edging plant, which ought to take the
place of many a tender subject. It is propagated
as easily as the bedding Calceolarias, and is one
of the hardiest of its race. As a permanent edg-
ing it can be strongly recommended. Another
splendid and most effective plant for edgings or
massing is the best form of the Golden Privet
(Ligustrum ovalifolium elegantissimum). This
will undoubtedly be grown far more as its merits
become known. Another excellent variety is L.
lucidum tricolor. Olearia Haasti makes a fine
display when grouped ; its culture, like that of
many more Japanese shrubs, is increasing. As a
border plant Osmanthus ilicifolius is gaining in
favour, being in addition a reliable town plant.
The Golden Yew (Taxus baccata elegantissima)
makes a splendid feature for a long time during
the summer, a few plants grouped together hav-
ing a rich appearance ; it is also amenable to
clipping, so as to form close edgings. In the Re-
tinosporas alone there is quite a wealth from
which to choose ; the forms of R. obtusa, R.
plumosa, R. filifera, and R. ericoides afford a
splendid choice in various shades of colour. Cu-
pressus Lawsoniana lutea is one of the best of all
golden conifers, whilst in the various tints of
other forms of the same species there is an abun-
dant choice for colour effect. The extended
planting of Evergreens of all kinds in gardens
around London and other populous centres should
be still further increased. My reason for giving
this advice is because many of the Fir tree family
are failures ; old trees hold on, it is true, but to
plant many young ones would give but poor
results.

Upon referring to deciduous trees and shrubs
we shall find also a great variety, the culture of
which may with advantage be made more general.
Of these I shall allude to the variegated or richly
coloured forms chiefly. Our old friend Negundo
fraxinifolia albo-variegata (the silvery Maple), as
well as N.'.f. aureo-variegata (the golden form), are
often seen in shrubberies, but when massed they
produce a much finer effect either by themselves
or when associated with other things as a contrast.
Prunus Pissardi planted with the silvery Maple
is a case in point, not crowded together, but
with sufficient room between each plant for
light and air to do their part. Such planting
as this can be kept in bounds by annual prun-
ings in both instances. Planted thus there is
scope for an undergrowth of flowering plants. Cal-
ceolarias (yellow), Violas and Salvia patens are
examples of what may be used. I have quoted La
France Rose for bedding purposes. Supposing
these, however, to be half-standard instead of
dwarf plants and then plant between them such
a Rose as Perle des Jardins, which, in addition to
its beautiful yellow flowers, has deep bronzy,
tinted foliage, we have another illustration of what
may be done. Surely such a bed is better than
one composed of scarlet or pink Geraniums, or
even one of Coleus Verschaffelti. Cornus san-

guinea albo-variegata is another hardy plant well
suited for massing. As a contrast thereto one or
more of the Japanese Acers could be used ; such,
for instance, as Acer palmatum, A. palmatum
atro-purpureum, A. dissectum or A. sanguineum,
all of which are beautiful subjects when in foli-
age. This list of Acers could be extended, but
those given are a few of the best. In large gar-
dens, with plenty of scope for effect at a distance,
the Golden Alder (A. glutinosa fol. aurea) might
be planted. Berberis Thunbergi makes a splen-
did show of richly coloured foliage in the autumn
months, being then very useful in a cut state to
arrange with suitably coloured flowers. Besides
the one Cornus already quoted there are other
kinds worthy of note, as C. brachypoda variegata,
a Japanese form, the type of which has the foliage
of a deep crimson in the autumn ; C. mas ele-
gantissima aurea is of smaller growth, but very
pretty ; C. atro-sanguinea should also be noted.
In the Copper Nut or Filbert we have another
plant with dark foliage, which would contrast well
with such as the variegated Acers. Of this I note
there is also a golden variety. The Copper Fil-
bert has been in cultivation many years, but seems
to have escaped notice. The Golden Elder (Sam-
bucus nigra aurea) is of quick growth ; in many
places 1 have seen it very effective in masses. An-
other variegated plant, Sunphoricarpus vulgaris
variegatus (the Snowberry) is worthy of notice for
cutting, whilst I think it would also be amenable
to pruning ; in a cut state I have seen it very
beautiful.

Other Plants.

As a dividing line to large beds I have seen
Cotoneaster microphylla used with the best advan-
tage ; its use as a wall plant is well known. Allud-
ing to wall plants, I am reminded of the Ever-
lasting Peas, the culture of which is none too
common. Wall plants are often neglected.

Tender bedding plants in small gardens,
&c. — In small gardens it is my opinion that
tender plants should be used considerably less,
speaking proportionately, than they are even in
larger ones. There are several reasons for this,
not the least important being that of overcrowd-
ing whilst under glass, which has already been
alluded to. In small gardens every part of the
place comes more immediately under the eye ;
it is, therefore, of the greatest importance to
have no more bare places from October until the
end of May than can possibly be avoided. This
can be provided for, it is true, by raising Prim-
roses, Polyanthuses, Pansies, Wallflowers, Forget-
me-nots and several other good things. This should
as far as possible be done in ever}' garden, but it
is oftentimes left undone. These spring and early
summer plants for the flower garden are both
suitable and welcome in any garden, be it large
or small. The complaint is sometimes made that
in their use the summer bedding is delayed ; this
may be so in some instances, as in the use of too
many Wallflowers. Primroses and Polyanthuses,
however, would be over, so would the Forget-me-
nots, whilst in the case of Pansies, which go on
flowering for a long time, it is quite possible to
plant the summer stock between them when these
latter are plants of suitable character. Begonias
could be managed in this way; so could (!era-
niums and any other but the dwarfest of plants.
The one point to pay attention to is that of
thoroughly preparing the beds in the autumn
when this is to be done, and overcrowding in the
case of the Pansies should be avoided. Early
flowering bulbs are most attractive, but instead
of planting them in beds I would prefer them in
borders where they can remain after flowering
rather than have to disturb as soon as the flowers
have faded. This latter subject of beds in small
gardens reminds me of one feature which in
many a garden is too prominent — it is that of too
many flower beds. Rather than have so many
beds I would personally prefer to see the borders
extended in front of the shrubs. This would
allow of a greater expanse of turf, a most desir-
able feature without a doubt, thus enhancing the
effect. To dot beds about upon a small lawn is

oftentimes meaningless, and all the more so if they
happen to be of some fantastic shape. Tennis anil
other outdoor games have to be considered.
These recreations could without a doubt be all the
better provided for if the beds were fewer in
number. The reduction in the numbers of the
flower beds in many a large garden would be an
advantage without a doubt. In looking through
an illustrated book of the seats of the nobility
and gentry, published in 1829, there is one most
remarkable feature, viz., the absence of flower
beds as compared with present day gardening in
this respect. This might possibly be the other
extreme, but surely an excessive display of flower
beds is the worse of the two. A broad expanse of
turf in front of the house is restful to the eye ;
this I should personally much prefer to any undue
amount of colour. Clothe the walls of the house
by all means with climbers and wall plants of
sorts to suit the taste. Of these there is an abun-
dant choice, so that no excuse can be made on
this score either from point of flowers or of foli-
age, of evergreens as well as deciduous subjects.

There are other things to which allusion could
be made in which hardy plants play an important
part, such as Delphiniums, Pa-onies, Hyacinthus
candicans, with a host of other bulbs, not forget-
ting even the Narcissi or Daffodils. Dahlias,
again, have not been touched upon ; still we can-
not afford to miss them, more particularly the
Cactus, the pompons, and the singles. These are
easily propagated, taking no previous room under
glass. Iceland Poppies should have been in-
cluded ; they are particularly useful. Cannas do
not take a great amount of room, and then only
from the time of starting ; this latter item may in
favourable spots be dispensed with by planting
straight away in their summer quarters. Ane-
mone japonica should be added to the herbaceous
plants, whilst rockwork is quite worthy of an
article to itself. The deciduous Magnolias have
rarely had that attention bestowed upon them
which their good qualities deservedly merit. It
is impossible in this short space to name many
things. Roses could be extended into a separate
article. My chief object has been to give ex-
amples of what may be used as well as of methods
that can be adopted. H.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1004.

THE GINGER- WORTS.
(with a coloured plate OF COSTUS

SPECIOSl'K. *)

The Ginger-worts (of which this is one) are as
a class very little known in gardens, though
there are some beautiful flowering plants among
them, cf which especial mention may be made
of the members of the genus Roscoea, Curcuma,
Alpinia, Hedychium, and others, as well as
Costus, one representative of which,

Costus sPECiosus,is herewith figured. Thisforms
a mass of thick roots, from which are pushed up
stout Bamboo-like shoots, but of a succulent na-
ture. The largest leaves are a foot or nearly so
in length and 4 inches to .r> inches wide, smooth
on the upper surface and silky beneath. They are
arranged in a spiral manner on the stems. The
mode of flowering is very well shown in the accom-
panying plate, the stout stems being terminated
by the red cone-like arrangement from whence the
flowers are produced. The individual blooms do
not last long, but a succession is kept up from one
head for a considerable time, and in the case of a
good flowering specimen the contrast between the
large white flowers and the reddish bracts is very
striking. The stems of this Costus reach a height
of 4 feet to 5 feet. It was introduced from India
as long ago as 1799.

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon in the
garden of Mr. Bennett-Pci'. Lithographed ai-d
printed by Guillaume Severeyns.

COSTU ^PECIO'

Mabch 9, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

1G7

C. igneus, the next to mention, is a remarkably
showy member of the genus and supplies a colour
but little represented among stove flowering
plants. It form?, as does the last-named, a dense
leafy clump, while the blossoms are also borne in
rone-like heads. They are 2 inches or nearly so
in diameter and of an intense deep orange colour.
Like those of C. speciosus, they are thin in texture
and do not remain long in perfection, but another
point in common with the two is that a continued
succession is maintained for a time. This Costus
may be planted out in a warm house or grown
altogether in pots ; in either case, but more par-
ticularly with a large specimen, it will at times
flower more or less nearly throughout the year.
At Kew its bright coloured blossoms may be
often seen. It was awarded a first-class certificate
by the Royal Horticultural Society in December,
1893, the specimens being exhibited by Sir Trevor
Lawrence. C. igneus is a native of Bahia, from
whence it was introduced by M. Linden in 1882.

C. Afer is in general features after the manner
of the two preceding. The leaves, however, are
narrower and the flowers are somewhat smaller,
their colour being white, with a yellow blotch on
the lower segment. As a rule it is not so free-
flowering as the other two. It is a native of Sierra
Leone, and was introduced in 1821.

C. Malortieanus, a species with golden yellow-
blossoms, sent to this country from Costa Rica
in 1860, was figured in the Botanical Magazine,
t. 5894, but whether it is now in cultivation I
cannot say.

C. mosaicus is a decidedly ornamental plant
from a foliage point of view, but the flowers I
have not seen. In this the obliquely lanceolate
leaves, which are about 4 inches long, are arranged
in a spiral manner on succulent stems. The major
portion of the leaf is of a silvery grey tint, arranged
after a mosaic pattern, while in the centre is an
irregular shaped band of dark green. Several
other kinds are known ; in fact, the genus con-
sists of about twenty-five species, but very few of
them are at present in cultivation.

Culture.

The culture of these different species of
Costus is simple, they being all moisture-loving
plants, that need a good free soil to root in.
C. speciosus does well at Kew, and I once
(though some years ago) saw it very fine at
Glasnevin. C. igneus, too, used to be remark-
ably showy planted out in the Water Lily house
at Pendell Court, as in the boggy soil there it
grew rapidly and flowered nearly throughout
the year. It will, however, succeed and flower
well in pots treated much the same as the
general run of stove plants, but with pretty
liberal attention in the matter of water. A
yellow turfy loam, lightened by leaf-mould,
well-decayed manure, and sand will suit it well.
A glass structure kept at a tropical temperature,
and so arranged that the occupants may be
planted out with an unlimited water supply,
might be made an object of great beauty and
at the same time furnish a very uncommon
feature. Besides the Papyrus and Nelunibium
speciosum, which at once suggest themselves,
we have some of these species of Costus and
several other allied plants. Thus Alpinia nutans,
with its nodding racemes of beautifully marked
blossoms, and the distinct A. mutica would be
just at home, and so would the Hedyehiums,
particularly H. coronarium, with its large white,
sweet scented flowers. H. P.

being very graceful even in a small state. D.
australis Veitchi differs in having the midribs of
a bronzy red shade, and is slightly more robust
on the whole. D. australis lineata is a plant of
noble growth, with its leaves twice or thrice as
wide as the species. As a decorative plant in a
tall house this makes a grand subject. D. aus-
tralis variegata (to simplify the name of D. Dou-
cetti) requires more warmth than that of the
ordinary cool house, so as to retain its true cha-
racter, then it is a handsome plant. D. rubra (so
named from the colour of its flowers) is one of the
hardiest of decorative plants ; of this there is also
a bronzy-foliaged form when the foliage is de-
veloping, making it quite distinct from the
species. D. congesta makes a charming vase
plant in a small state, also as a table plant, but its
culture is much neglected.— G.

Greenhouse Dracaenas. — Of these there is a
good variety as regards size of plant and style of
growth, it being an easy matter to adapt one or
the other in various sizes to nearly every form
of decoration either under glass in cool houses all
the year, or for half the year outside in favourable
positions and the other half inside. D. australis
is a very variable plant. The type has long and
comparatively narrow leaves with green midribs,

The Week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Transplanting Peas. — Batches of Chelsea Gem
selected early which were sown in small pots
in December and placed at once in cold frames,
being well protected during the recent inclement
weather, will now be thoroughly hardened off, and
should stand the ordeal of transplanting well. If,
according to advice given in a former calendar, the
snow was removed from Pea borders as soon as
the thaw commenced, the turned-up soil will by
this time have become sufficiently warmed to pro-
mote root action. In planting do not mutilate
the roots, but merely part the ball in the centre,
place them in the shallow trench, gently pressing
the soil round the roots, and at once protect from
cutting frosty winds by wooden troughs or small
Fern boughs. As a guard against sparrows I
always employ small irons similar to those used
in the game of croquet ; these are placed along the
rows at intervals. Thin twine is then stretched
from one to the other until a perfect arch is made.
As the Peas increase in height the irons are raised
until the sticks are put to them. Where the
ground is not so warm and light as desirable, a
quantity of finely sifted soil or that obtained from
beneath the potting bench may be worked in
amongst the roots. In very sheltered gardens the
Peas may be sticked as soon as planted, a net be-
ing thrown over to keep sparrows at bay. Plenty
of small twigs should be used between the main
stocks to prevent the haulm falling through and
also to act as a shelter. Those that were not
raised until January, and then in heat, will need
extra care in the hardening oft, it being wise to
wait a week or ten days longer before transplant-
ing rather than to incur any danger of injury to
the tender tops.

SrcC'EssioNAL sowing. — The season being so
far advanced, open-air sowings may be made with-
out fear. As second earlies could not be sown
early in February owing to the frost-bound char-
acter of the soil, they may now be got in, and
with greater certainty of doing well, the sun's
power now being considerable. In this section
Exonian and Criterion are as satisfactory as any,
the former being ready for gathering a week or
so before the latter. To follow these some of the
larger wrin kled Marrows may be sown — Stonebridce
Marrow, Duke of Albany, Exhibition Marrowfat,
and Prodigy, all being excellent. If ground can
be spared a width of 5 feet or 6 feet should be
allowed between the rows, this allowing for rows
of Spinach between to grow freely without being
trampled upon. If the position is open and sunny,
the small forcing varieties of Cauliflowers may
also be grown between. By all means avoid sow-
ing thickly, although this season, owing to the
indifferent harvest of 1894, rather thicker sowings
than usual will be advisable, thinning later on if
too crowded. The above varieties being of a very
branching habit, ordinary drills should not be
made, but openings taken out with the spade.
A row or two of that good old Pea Stratagem may

I also be sown now. It is of a most convenient
height and of grand flavour, continuing to form
pods over a long period. On poor shallow soils
trenches may be taken out and well lined with
manure, always providing the situation is not low.
Where this is the case moderately deep drills are
the safest, a good mulch of rich manure being
given when the Peas come into bloom.

Broad Beans.— Early batches raised in heat
and duly hardened off will be ready for removal
to the garden by the third week in March. Sow-
ing in small pots is a great advantage, as then
they can be placed in position with little or no
root disturbance. Plant in shallow drills, drawn
out if possible in the early part of the day and
exposed to the sun's rays until the afternoon ;
afterwards gently draw and press the soil around
the balls, and give protection in the same way as
recommended for early Peas. These rows will
afford full sized pods some time before even the
autumn-sown Mazagans or January-sown Green
Windsors. Another and rather extensive sowing
should now be made where this class of Bean is
esteemed through the summer months, and, in-
stead of drawing drills, dibble the Beans in rows
1 foot apart and 6 inches between the seed. This
non-disturbance of the ground, which should be
solid, by reason of having been dug in autumn,
will enable it to retain moisture better. At this
time several varieties should be sown in order to
secure a succession. Seville Longpod, still one of
the most profitable and best flavoured Beans ;
Veitch's Improved Longpod is also a capital
variety, containing more Beans than the majority
of extra long-podded sorts. Where large Beans
are an objection, the dwarf and free-yielding
Beck's Green Gem may be sown. This variety is
most convenient, as being dwarf it does not fall
about like the others and the Beans are small
and deep green in colour, this rendering them
especially useful for the dining room.

Sowing small seeds. — In all but the latest and
coldest districts the earliest open-air sowing of
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and some of the
earliest Broccoli may be made, also Leeks for a
late supply. If the autumn-planted hand-light
Cauliflowers have passed through the frost safely,
they will be closely followed at the beginning of
July by Walcheren raised in boxes in heat or sown
in the early Carrot frame. Seed of Walcheren,
Pearl, and Eclipse sown now on a sunny aspect
and in a warm soil will keep up the supply from
the beginning to the end of August. Autumn
Giant may likewise be sown for coming in during
September. Broccoli, which take a long season
of growth, such as Cooling's Matchless Spring,
Snow's Winter White, and Backhouse's Winter
White, a splendid variety, may also be got in.
Cabbage to follow spring heat-raised plants may
be represented by Ellam's and Enfield Market,
these two following each other in the order named.
The main sowing of Brussels Sprouts must now
take place. These may comprise Veitch's Exhibi-
tion, Paragon and Northaw Prize. Where early
Savoys are in demand a sowing of Early Dwarf
Ulm and Green Curled will be advisable. Lettuce,
both of the Cabbage and Cos sections, must also
be included, small plantings of these at all times
being preferable to large lots, many of which
spoil before they can be eaten. I have found
Alexander Cos to be a most excellent variety for
hot summer weather, not bolting like many others,
and developing large luscious heads in a very
short space of time. Hick's Hardy is another
good sort, doing well if planted on a cool east
border and in rich soil. Of Cabbage varieties.
Continuity, Perfect Gem and All the Year Round
are reliable, and good Lettuce must be thinned
freely immediately the seedlings can be handled,
or they soon spoil. Indeed, the same remark
applies to all the above-named subjects.

Parsley. — If agood breadth of this is sown now
on warm, well-drained soil, plenty of seed being
used, it will afford a supply by June, when much
of the winter beds will be running to seed. More-
over, if sufficient is left at thinning time, half the
quantity may be transplanted several weeks
later, this carrying on the supply till autumn, at

168

THE GARDEN.

[March 9, 1895.

which time midsummer-sown batches will be
ready for use. After sowing, sprinkle a pood quan-
tity of wood ashes in the drills, as Parsley is very
liable to attacks from wireworm and grubs. That
sown in heat in January will need gradually
hardening off', so that early in April it maybe
transplanted in sheltered positions by the margins
of walks or in front of espaliers. Frame-covered
beds which have been closely picked may now
have the soil between the rows loosened with a
fork, after which all yellow leaf-stalks should be
picked off and a dressing of artificial manure
given. This, with increased sun heat, will soon
induce the formation of fronds fit for use.

Sowing herbs. — The present is a good time to
sow such herbs as are not easily increased by
division. On some soils also, especially in rainy
springs, many offsets after planting die off, leaving
sad gaps. These may be duly made up in June
from plants raised from the present sowing, not
planting singly, but grouping three or four plants
together. The common and Lemon Thyme
quickly germinate in heat, as also do the summer
and winter Savories. Marjoram and Basil must
also be included. An intermediate heat suits
them best, and as soon as the seedlings appear,
a warm frame from which the lights can be re-
moved in fine weather. Where Lavender is es-
teemed, this may be increased by transplanting
any of the lower offsets which may have rooted
into the soil. These will gown away quickly and
soon form fine bushes.

Chilies and Capsicums. — In some establish-
ments these are valued for kitchen use and
pickles. Now is the time to sow the seed. A
good strong heat is needed, and as soon as the
seedlings can well be handled pot on, finally
fruiting them in 6-inch pots and in an inter-
mediate heat. Mammoth Red and Long Red
are the best forms of Chilies, Capsicums being
best represented by Monstrous Red, Prince of
Wales, and Little Gem.

Turnip-rooted Beet. — Where salads are in
constant demand early Beet are essential, and as
the long-shaped varieties will soon lose their
virtue by growing away at the crowns, a row or
two of the Egyptian Turnip-rooted may now be
sown in an open sunny position. Where this can-
not be afforded sowing must be deferred until the
first week in April. Sow in very shallow drills
and use a little wood ashes as recommended for
Parsley. Sow plenty of seed, as, independent of
the liability to rot at this early date, Beet seed
was not harvested in the best condition last
autumn. I have sometimes sown early Beet in a
box in warmth, gradually hardened them off, and
transplanted them at the end of April with good
results. In this case the young plants must be
protected by small evergreen twigs.

Open-air Tomatoes. — The present time is in my
opinion the most favourable for sowing Tomatoes
for fruiting against walls out of doors. Some
advocate earlier sowing, but in nine cases out of
ten fine weather has to be waited for, and the
plants become half starved and yellow, sometimes
remaining for weeks in a stubborn condition after
planting. If seed is sown now in a temperature of
60° at night, and the plants afterwards grown on
under similar conditions until after the first shift is
given, a sunny greenhouse will then suit them
well for a fortnight, after which cool frames well
protected by mats at night, cautiously aired until
the middle of May, and fully exposed by day from
then to the first week in June, they will then
stand removal to walls with impunity. Of course
some plan of protection must be devised, as the
nights during June are sometimes cold and liable
to injure the young succulent growths. Strong
sticks, having their bottoms thrust into the
ground and the upper ends resting against the
wall, these being surrounded by mats at nightfall,
are an effectual screen. Sow in single pots, not in
boxes. In regard to varieties, there are several
more suitable for outdoor culture than others.
Amongst these the old Dwarf Orangefield is, in my
opinion, still about the best when it can be
obtained true. It is a hardy free grower, short in
the joints, and yielding enormous clusters of fruit

from summit to base. Although not so symmetrical
as the Perfection type, its flavour is ot the finest.
Laxton's Open Air and Sutton's First Crop are also
both excellent for the purpose. Amateurs and
others who have no walls may with every con-
fidence plant against boarded fences facing south
and shielded from cutting winds from east and
west.

Sprouting late Potatoes. — These in many
instances have been hard hit with the intense
frost, especially where the mounds were insuffi-
ciently covered* with dry material previous to lay-
ing on the soil. The weather now being favour-
able, the whole stock should be overhauled, all
frozen tubers removed, and the sound ones snibbed
for the last time. If they can now be spread out
somewhat thinly in some well-built shed and
lightly covered with dry straw, the sprouts formed
after this date will be of good length by the time
planting takes place. If mild weather sets in
between now and that date, the straw had better
be removed altogether, the light increasing the
strength and vigour of the new growths.

J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Early Peaches — Stopping and disbudding. —
The weather during the past month in most parts
of the country has been unfavourable for fruits
requiring much sunshine and little fire heat in their
early stages. Disbudding with very early forced
trees cannot be commenced too early, at the same
time removing surplus fruits and laying in a good
foundation of wood for succession or extension of
the trees. Disbudding will require daily atten-
tion, and is an important point in the culture
of the Peach or Nectarine. Remove foreright
shoots first, especially those near the ends of the
shoots, or what may be termed the strongest
growths,afterwardsremovingthoseonthelower por-
tion. Take those shoots last which require pinch-
ing or what may be wanted to assist the fruits,
stopping the shoots to the third leaf when close to
ihe fruit. In disbudding, the grower must allow
sufficient space for the development of the trees,
as crowded wood means small fruits and much
trouble from insect pests. Shortening back shoots
before they attain much strength gives those
which are required to be laid in at full length
more room to develop, thus ensuring a mature or
good fruiting wood for next season. If there be
room for these shoots, reserve a shoot as much as
possible on the upper portion of the branch, and
as the flow of sap is always to the top, regulate
the growths so as to get a good portion of strong
wood at the base of the tree. My method is a
simple one as regards extension of young trees. If
a free growth be allowed for furnishing the trees,
grossness is checked, and young trees the follow-
ing season will carry more fruits. There will be
less need, too, of the severe pruning often required
to check undue luxuriance.

Selection and thinning op fruit.— The thin-
ning of the fruits is somewhat similar in detail to
disbudding, and requires almost daily attention,
healthy trees always setting far too much fruit.
The modern practice of thinning the flower-buds
before they open is excellent, but, of course,
beginners need to exercise care at the start and
remove a few of the thickly placed buds where
signs of dropping are evident and the varie-
ties are sure setters. Of course, these remarks do
not apply to early trees at this date, but can with
advantage be practised with those in succession
houses. In their case there should be no fear of
dropping, and the trees are often much weakened
by setting far too many fruits. In the selection
of fruits intended to mature when the flower-buds
have been thinned previously the cultivator's
task is much easier, as those buds which set are
larger. A few soon take the lead, and are readily
recognised as being better than others. In the
final selection the best fruits as regards size,
colour, and flavour are those on the upper surface
of the trees when trained to the roof or over a
semicircular trellis, whilst those on back walls

should be prominent or face outwards, as the
fruits are otten deformed when left close to wires
or pressed by growing shoots.

When finally thinning out the fruits, reduce
all double ones to one at each eye or bud.
Remove all badly placed fruits, and as regards
the quantity of crop each tree should bear much
depends upon the condition of the trees. Many
growers crop freely and feed liberally, annually
paying great attention to the trees, keeping the
roots near the surface and feeding. The old regu-
lation as to cropping was a fruit to every square
foot of top-growth, and it has much to commend
it if a fair crop of fine fruits be desired. When
the fruits are swelling, syringe the trees overhead
twice daily, moistening all portions of the trees,
especially the upper portion, this being most ex-
posed to sunshine, and if not kept moist soon gets
infested with red spider. Maintain a moist grow-
ing atmosphere to assist swelling, damping all
portions of the house. Uive the trees liberal sup-
plies of tepid water and liquid manure or a sur-
face-dressing of a quick-acting fertiliser before
watering. Close early in the day, syringe, and
raise the temperature from 5° to 10° higher than
the temperature given in the calendar a month
ago.

Succession houses. — These trees will now be
in full flower and will set freely without much
artificial fertilisation if due attention be paid to a
free circulation of air, as in country districts bees
are often busy during the early part of the day.
Should there be any doubts regarding the flowers
setting freely, run over the flowers with a rabbit
or hare's tail tied to a short stick. Distribute the
pollen about midday, as there is abundance of
pollen on many varieties, some of the newer kinds,
American introductions especially, not being such
good setters as older kinds, and in their case it is
not well to trust again to tapping the trees or
even by insect-fertilisation. Much can be done to
strengthen the bloom and maintain a healthy
atmosphere by damping all parts of the house,
reducing the moisture towards evening. Give air
during the flowering stage on all favourable occa-
sions both at the front and top, with a steady
warmth in the pipes to keep up the desired tem-
perature should the weather be changeable. The
day temperature may be 60° with a drop of 7° to
10" at night ; indeed, 50° even now will be a safe
temperature in cold or windy weather, as Peaches
require ample time at the start to ensure short-
jointed wood and a free set.

Late houses. — These trees are far less for-
ward than usual owing to the long-protracted
frost, but with increased sun-heat will soon be on
the move. Give all the air possible and fumigate
such trees in succession for three evenings to get
rid of fly. When the shoots are growing freely
encourage growth, as there is no gain in retarding
at this stage ; by so doing growth is weakened.
Syringe every morning if the weather be suitable,
and as these trees show such a profusion of flower
buds the advice given for earlier trees may be
practised with advantage, and there will be no
fear of bad setting. A light shaking will set the
flowers with a free circulation of air. Before the
flowering period give the borders a thorough
soaking with rain water, which can often be
better spared now than later. Should there be
any doubts as to dryness, repeat the watering in a
few days. Many crops are scanty through dry-
ness at the roots. Doubtless in many cases the
surface is moist, but lower down the earth is so
much dried that moisture cannot penetrate it.
Watering is always best done before the trees are
in flower and again when the fruits are all set.
To encourage growth from the time the trees are
in bloom treat as advised for succession fruits by
giving a day temperature of 55 J with 10° lower at
night. Begin to disbud as early as possible and
ventilate freely in fine weather.

Hardy fruits. — Peaches and Nectarines. —
The trees are later this season than usual on open
walls, but from this date the sun becomes more
powerful. It is not well to delay pruning any
longer, and with autumn-planted trees nailing in
may be finished. Make the soil firm after the

March 9, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

169

frost and let the surface soil have a mulch later
on, or moisture if required. I do not advise nail-
ing of the shoots of the older or permanent trees
till the last moment, as if these trees have been
detached from the wall all the winter, by leaving
the work to the last moment, growth is retarded
and there is less need of covering with thick
covers. Remove long naked branches, so as to
lay in new fruiting wood, and open the upper
portion of the trees as much as possible by lower-
ing some of the stronger branches. It is not well
to have all the fruit at the top or crowded ; shorten
the strong fruiting shoots to about two-thirds of
their original length, cutting to a wood bud, and
cut away weak or poor wood before nailing to
give the fruiting wood all the space.

Planting and protecting.— There is little
danger in planting now if the work be done
quickly, and no lack of moisture both at roots
and tops later on. We see how well these trees
thrive in nurseries when lifted lute. Too vigorous
trees which do not fruit well may be lifted with a
ball and replanted without fear of injury, thus
saving the excessive pruning often necessary,
which causes canker and in time total collapse of
the trees. Though this work be much better
done late in September or early in October when
in full leaf, rather than lose a season it may be
done now. Protecting must soon be considered,
as birds are often troublesome in many gardens.
Where they attack the trees, early covering is
desirable. There is nothing better for this pur-
pose than a square mesh net doubled or trebled,
allowing the net to hang loosely, but quite char
of the tree. Strongly-made nets are even better
than any other protection, as it preserves the
bloom from frost and birds, at the same time
admitting air freely. If birds are not troublesome,
leave the covering till the latest moment possible,
that is, when the Uowers appear.

G. Wythks.

Orchids.

TRICHI (CENTRUMS.
Of this genus there are upwards of a dozen
species, many of which, however, are only to be
met with in establishments where botanical
plants are cultivated, whilst a few are really very
beautiful flowers worthy a place in every collec-
tion. The genus was established some sixty
years ago upon a species which up to the pre-
sent time has not yet been introduced into culti-
vation. These plants are all natives of tropical
America, and are very nearly allied to Corn-
parettias, which they very much resemble.
They are dwarf -growing, epiphytal Orchids,
quite destitute of pseudo-bulbs, and therefore
require to be kept in a moist condition the
whole year round, much less water, however,
being requisite during the winter months than
in the growing season. These plants in their
native habitat grow mostly upon the branches of
trees in shady positions, and under cultivation
the best results have been obtained by placing
them on blocks of wood or in shallow pans, the
few kinds here mentioned producing flowers
very freely when given this treatment and
their other little wants carefully attended to.
Sphagnum Moss is the only material that is
needed when grown upon blocks, but for those
which are placed in pans a little fibrous peat
may be added. They are plants that require
only a small amount of compost around their
roots, and, as before mentioned, must be con-
stantly kept in a moist condition. A moderately
cool temperature will be found to suit them
best, as at the cool end of the Cattleya house,
and as the blooms are of fairly good substance,
will continue in beauty for some time if not
sprinkled with water from the syringe. Amongst

those most generally cultivated are the following
handsome kinds : —

T. albo-purpureum does not exceed 4 inches or
5 inches in height, the leaves being oblong, very
fleshy, and bright glossy green. This kind was
introduced about thirty years ago from Brazil and
is one of the best kinds we have, producing beau-
tiful blooms which measure nearly 2 inches in
diameter. These are borne upon short peduncles
singly and sometimes in pairs. The sepals and
petals are similar, of a cinnamon-brown colour
and tawny yellow on the outer surface ; the lip is
large, with a wide claw, white, spotted on each
side with a purple blotch, and of a yellowish
shade on the crest, the stout spur being also
white.

T. maculatum. — This is a native of Colombia,
where it grows at upwards of 5000 feet altitude,
and although the individual blooms are not so
large as in the previously mentioned kind, it is still
a very desirable species with white flowers, which
are spotted with reddish-crimson.

T. orthoplegtron. — A very fine and handsome
species, which first appeared in this country just
twelve years ago. The flowers are large, with deep
brown sepals and petals, tipped with yellow, the
pure white lip having a blotch of bright crimson-
lake on each side.

T. Pkavi.— This is a very elegant little plant,
with acute and clustered leaves, and growing to a
height of about 4 inches. It usually produces two
blooms upon a spike, which are pure white,
marked with chestnut-red at the base. It comes
from Central America.

T. Porphyrio. — A very showy kind, with large
flowers, the sepals and petals being soft brown,
bordered with yellow, and the lip magenta-purple,
having a small white border and a yellow spot on
the disc.

T. TIORINUM. — This is a beautiful addition to
the family, being a stronger grower, with larger
and broader leaves. The flowers are also of fine
substance, the sepals and petals light yellow,
dotted with red, and the lip, which is large, is
white, blotched with brownish-purple and suf-
fused with yellow on the disc.

Wm. Hugh Cower.

spotted with reddish brown. The lip is yellow,
roundish in front, wavy on the edge, with bright
red spots. O. maculatum likes a slightly higher
temperature than 0. crispum and its allies, but if
this is not at command, may be very well grown
in the same house. It should be potted in peat
fibre, chopped Sphagnum, and broken crocks,
given good drainage, and elevated a little above
the rims of the pots. The plants require no rest-
ing period. Before the flowers are past they com-
mence to grow from the base of the pseudo- bulbs,
and this is perhaps the best time to repot, dis-
turbing the roots as little as possible. This Or-
chid perhaps more than any other in the genus is
liable to the attacks of a soft brown scale. This
is, however, very easily removed, and with ordi-
nary care will not give much trouble. O. macu-
latum is an old plant in collections, being intro-
duced from Mexico in 1838, where it is said to be
very plentiful. It varies considerably in colour,
some forms being much richer than others, but all
are well worth a place in every collection. — G.

Restrepia elegans. — The members of the
genus to which this charming little plant belongs
are allied to the Masdevallias. R. elegans is one
of the best in the genus and a most interesting
Orchid. It grows in tufts of little roundish stems
about 3 inches high ; these are scaly, and each
bears a single dark green elliptical leaf. From
the axils of these proceed the flower-scapes, each
bearing usually a single flower. These are pecu-
liarly constructed, the top sepals long and nar-
row, broader at the base, the lower sepals united ;
the petals are narrow, and stand out from the
rest of the flower. The ground colour is chiefly
yellow, streaked and spotted with crimson and
purple. R. elegans was discovered by Dr. Korsten
growing in cool, moist and shady woods at an
elevation of 6000 feet in Caraccas. It thrives
under cultivation in the cool house, and may be
grown in well-drained pots in peat fibre and
Sphagnum. It must not be dried at any time,
less water being, of course, required during
winter. The species was introduced to this
country in 1850, but was grown on the Continent
for some time previous to that date. — G.

Odontoglossum maculatum. — This is among
the most useful of winter and early spring-flower-
ing Orchids, easily grown, constant in flowering,
and lasts a very long time in perfection. This,
moreover, does not distress the plants to any ap-
preciable extent, provided they are well esta-
blished, strong, and well supplied with water at
the roots. It makes an attractive plant when
well grown and flowered ; the pseudo-bulbs are
oblong, about 3 inches high, bearing several
broad, arching, light green leaves. The flower-
spikes are produced from the base of these, and bear
about six or eight flowers. The inside of the sepals
and petals is rich nut brown, transversely barred
with green and purple, and the latter thickly

CULTURE OF ODONTOGLOSSUMS.

The remarkable degree of popularity to which
the members of this fine genus have attained is
a sufficient proof of their adaptability to cultiva-
tion and their great value as flowering plants.
Probably no other large genus contains so few
kinds that are difficult of cultivation ; in fact there
is hardly a species that, if grown in a suitable
temperature, with ordinary care will not do well.
The practice of keeping these Orchids in a high
and moist atmosphere is happily becoming prac-
tically obsolete, the danger in the present day
tending in the opposito direction, at least as far as
the winter temperature is concerned. From a
somewhat lengthened experience with these plants,
I am convinced that although during the summer
months it is hardly possible to keep such as
O. crispum, O. Pescatorei, and O. triumphans too
cool, yet a minimum temperature of 48° is quite
low enough during the winter. Many of the
species are very restless Orchids, O. Halli, for in-
stance, frequently starting again into new growth
as soon as the pseudo-bulbs are finished, yet
flowering freely from each set of growths, the
roots, too, being nearly always active. This being
the case, it is evident that no lengthened period of
rest is necessary, although for obvious reasons
there must be a slight difference in the summer
and winter temperature. Odontoglossums are
truly alpine plants, and a constant and regular
circulation of air must always be kept up in the
structure in which they are growing. During the
summer months the leaves may be absolutely
blown about and kept almost constantly in
motion by the wind, and they will be all the better
for it, providing the atmosphere is kept well
charged with moisture and the plants never get
dry at the roots. This will give the pseudo-bulbs
that bronzed or russetty appearance that all ex-
perienced growers delight in, the foliage also
standing erect, stiff and springy to the touch.
Plants of this description cannot fail to flower
freely at the proper season without any drying
off or other unnatural proceedings. A mistake
frequently made with Odontoglossums is giving
them too great a thickness of compost, this, too,
occasionally being close and heavy with little or
nothing to lighten it in any way, such as char-
coal or potsherds, for the roots to cling to. A
suitable mixture for these plants will be equal
parts of peat fibre and Sphagnum, the crocks and
charcoal being better added as the work proceeds.
For medium-sized plants the pots should be filled
to within an inch of the rims with crocks, leaving
less or more in proportion for smaller or larger
sizes, and this thickness of compost will be ample
to steady the plants in position and to sustain
their growth. The old compost should be re-
moved carefully from about the roots, using a
pointed stick between and around the pseudo-
bulbs where there is not room to introduce the
finger and thumb. This done and any decayed
roots cut away, wrap a little Moss round those

170

THE GARDEN.

[March 9, 1895.

remaining, place the plants in position so that the
base of the leading pseudo-bulbs will be just clear
of the compost when finished. Having plenty of
finely broken crocks at hand, place a good
sprinkling around the Moss and fill up with the
compost firmly and neatly to the usual convex
mound. Trim off all ragged ends and dibble in a
few points of Sphagnum, as these are of great
assistance in determining whether or not a plant
is dry at the roots. After potting keep the plants
rather on the dry side until the roots are seen to
be again on the move, when gradually increase
the supply as growth proceeds. On fine summer
days the syringe must be freely plied among
the pots to cause a moist atmosphere, and the
plants bedewed overhead twice or thrice daily.
A dense shade will be necessary during this period
to keep the temperature as low as possible, not
limiting this to any stated figure, but always
maintaining a pleasantly cool, moist and airy
atmosphere, such as feels refreshing on entering
on a summer s day from the external air. With
lean-to houses or pits having a north aspect this
is comparatively easy, but on higher span-roofed
structures it is far more difficult. In addition to
the ordinary blinds it will often be found neces-
sary to lay garden mats, previously well wetted,
over the glass and to keep these moist by syring-
ing. In houses of this latter description it is
better to ventilate very freely on summer nights
and to keep closer and heavily shaded during the
daytime, otherwise it is impossible to keep the
atmosphere sufficiently moist. Thus it will be
seen that there is practically nothing to hinder
the merest tyro from taking up the culture of
this section, and as it undoubtedly contains some
of the choicest and most beautiful species in the
whole Orchid family, he will not be likely to lament
his choice. H. R.

Hybrid Cypripediums. — In a recent issue
you give C. maculosum as shown by me at
the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural So-
ciety. When before the Orchid committee it was
identified as pavonianum, raised by Mr. Drewett.
I therefore wish to withdraw the name I gave it
in ignorance of this fact. — F. M. Burton, High-
field, (fainsboroiigh.

Cypripedium Boxalli. — A very nice form of
this species comes from Cheltenham, which has
the dorsal sepal well spotted with very dark
spots and the border very distinctly margined
with white, the petals being of fine colour and the
lip well formed. This plant was discovered by
the well-known collector whose name it bears
upwards of twenty years ago. It is by some
authorities considered a variety of C. villosum. —
W. H. G.

Dendrobiums at Cheltenham. — Amongst
the fine Orchids cultivated by Mr. Cypher at his
nurseries in Cheltenham are some beautiful kinds
now in bloom, D. nobile and O. Wardianum being
represented in quantity, but of the rarer kinds
there are also a large number. Of the last-named,
the white variety, D. Wardianum album, is de-
cidedly worthy of notice, the flowers being of the
purest white, excepting a small stain of pale
yellow in the throat and two very small spots of
light brown at the base. D. crassinode is also a
good species, which flowers profusely at the
present season ; it is a very distinct plant even
when not in flower. The blooms of this kind are
produced in twos and threes from the swollen
nodes at the upper portion of the stems, and are
white, heavily tipped with mauve-purple on each
segment ; the lip is finely fringed, and has also a
large blotch of mauve-purple at the base, a white
zone running between the yellow disc and the
purple tip. Amongst the hybrid kinds, D.
Leechi?num is one of the finest, being very con-
spicuous by its large bold flowers ; the sepals and
petals vary in different forms, from pure white
tipped with purple to deep rose, also purple at
the ends ; the lip has a very downy appearance, is
white, with a large blotch of deep rosy-purple
at the base, from which run radiating lines of
the same shade. D. endocharis is another

hybrid, having for its parents D. japonicum
and D. aureum (this last is also one parent
to D. Leechianum, D. nobile being the other).
The pure white flowers of this kind are very
chaste and beautiful, and, moreover, have a very
pleasant fragrance. — W. H. S.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

GOOD APRICOTS.

In many gardens the Apricot, no matter what
variety be grown, is disappointing, the branches
dying off. Some varieties are less subject to
disease than others, and it is the best kinds
which suffer most, such as Moorpark. Over-
dry ness at the roots does far more injury than
frosts, and is often the cause of unfruitful-
ness and decay of the branches. The variety
illustrated is less subject to disease, and it is
valuable as a bush kind, this being the only
Apricot that succeeds well in favoured locali-
ties, though there is a Continental variety, the
Alberge de Montgamet, which is very hardy

of the glass is removed after the fruits are
gathered. Some good houses have only a glass
roof, which checks frosts and prevents late
growth by autumnal rains. The latter are
often the cause of loss of branches. During
growth the trees require unlimited supplies of
moisture, but I would, if possible, limit the
amount after growth is completed. With glass
protection — the sides of the house being movable
to admit air freely — splendid results are secured.
Bush trees are best, allowing a short leg or stem
of 18 inches clear of the soil. It is not necessary
to use fire-heat, my preference for bush trees
being that one can allow freedom of growth.
There is little pruning if due attention be paid
to stopping early in the growing season and the
formation of fruit spurs. Trees under glass do
not suffer from loss of branches as in the opeD,
and if a gross growth results, lift the trees early
in the autumn before the leaves turn colour.
Glass copings or cases are of great use in the
culture of these fruits, and if the former they
should be movable, so as to admit rains at cer-
tain seasons of the year. Of course, with cases
it is necessary to grow trained trees at the back
of the wall, and I would advise what is termed
half standards or trees grafted or
budded on sufficient length of stem for
the upper portion of the trees to be
near the roof and in such a position as
to get abundance of air.

Apricots blooming so early are the
*irst fruits to require protection, and
they do not' like badly drained or clay
soil. If a good depth of loam and such
aids as 'charred refuse, wood ashes and
mortar rubble can be given, I prefer to

/give manures on the surface in pre-
ference to mixing in the soil, as what
is wanted is a sturdy growth with abund-
ance of fruit spurs. This latter may be
accomplished by using the knife early in
the summer, by pinching or stopping,
thus having little pruning to do when
the trees are leafless. Gumming follows
winter pruning if the trees are left to
take their chance in the summer. Few
fruits pay better for lifting to prevent
undue luxuriance, and many trees
suffer through having their roots buried
too deeply. This can be remedied by
lifting, and I would advise lifting young
trees every three or four years, placing
the roots nearer the surface and giving
unlimited supplies of water and liquid
manure during the growing season.

I have lifted trees twenty years old, and got
fine crops of fruit when such trees have been on
a bad aspect. In such cases lift before the
leaves change colour and thoroughly water the
roots. Syringe the tops daily after lifting till
the leaves change or drop. In favoured locali-
ties the variety Breda does well in bush or stan-
dard form, but in most cases these fruits will
repay for wall shelter.

As regards varieties, Moorpark is the best in
quality, but it is not the most free cropping,
a source of income, helping to pay the rent. The trees gum badly and limbs die wholesale.
The trees were pruned very little, and to this The fruit is handsome, of a brownish-orange
latter cause I attribute much of their success ' colour, and where the Apricot thrives this
or fruitfulness. Those who like Apricots would variety should be grown, as the fruits are richer
do well to grow them under glass, and, as is than others ; in fact, it is a good early dessert
well known, there have been many failures to fruit. For usefulness I give first place to
force when treated in the same way as other Heinskirk, which grows more freely than Moor-
fruits. Many have tried pot culture in or- park, does not die off so badly, and possesses
chard houses, but this is not successful. In what may be termed a better constitution. If
cold heavy soils with glass one can get reliable only a small space can be devoted to Apricots,
crops. For years these fruits should have this kind should be one of the varieties selected,
glass protection much in the same way as orchard The fruit is large and of good quality. My
house trees, the only difference being that i next selection is Breda, which is invaluable for
the trees are planted out and a large quantity preserves or compotes in a dried state, but is

Apricot Breda. From a photograph sent by
Mr. Norman Blake, Bedford.

and can be grown as a standard. In my opi-
nion, however, it is not equal in quality to
Breda, which it much resembles. Both kinds
are especially good for preserving. Of course
soils and localities have much to do with suc-
cessful culture, and a very hot summer is not
the best for the trees in a light, poor soil, as we
lost more branches after the hot summer of
1893 than in any other period in spite of care-
ful watering. I well remember when a boy
many cottagers having splendid trees on the
gable ends of their cottages. The fruits were

March 9, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

171

less juicy than those named. It is the hardiest
of all the varieties, and, as stated previously, is
the best for growing in the open in bush form.
It may be termed a mid-season kind, and is
mostly grown for the purpose named. Large
Early is a valuable fruit, and should be selected
by those who cannot grow the Moorpark or
delicate kinds. I have grown this in cold or
exposed positions when all others failed, the
tree being of vigorous growth, very prolific, and
the fruits large, of a rich orange colour, and
very early. 1 always plant this variety, as it
rarely fails to crop if the trees be allowed to
extend freely and are not much pruned in
their early stages. "Royal is a similar fruit as
regards growth, succeeding well in adverse
soils, but not equal in flavour to Large Early.
Shipley is well worth a trial. It is also known
under the name of Blenheim, and is earlier than
the old Moorpark, being a good preserving
variety. The Peach is a very large fruit, rich
and of free growth. It much resembles Moor-
park in flavour ; and Kaisha completes the
list. The last is not a large fruit, but early
and of rich flavour, and the trees crop freely.
There are nearly twenty other varieties, but the
few named I consider are the best.

G. Wythbs.

Peach Dymond. — Although I have known
this variety for many years, I have not observed
any susceptibility to the attack of aphides as
mentioned by " W. S." (p. 94). There is some-
thing curious about the manner in which certain
varieties are prone to attack in some gardens and
not in others — as, for instance, Pineapple Nec-
tarine in a former situation was always infested
with black aphis in the spring, no other variety
being attacked, and which I have never seen in any
other garden where Pine-apple was grown. —

Protecting1 tree stems from ground game.
— I have nowhere seen a simpler or better method
of protecting the stems of standard trees from
hares and rabbits than was adopted by the late
Mr. J. James in his orchard at Farnham Royal
when he planted it several years since. Wire
mesh of some 2 feet broad was cut into short
lengths and fastened securely, yet loosely round
the stems without at all burying or fixing the
wire. When rabbits come in contact with the
wire the motion created serves to alarm them
because so incomprehensible, and they keep
away. The orchard in question covered some
rive or six acres of Grass land close to Burnham
Beeches, and was almost surrounded by rabbit
and hare infested woods, yet the immunity from
injury was remarkable. Of course, this form of
treatment could hardly be applied in the case of
dwarf or bush trees. Then there is no safer
method than in fixing a wire fence all round the
orchard. Such wire fencing should be firstly of
3 feet depth, some 4 inches of the lower side
being not only buried in the soil, but also held
there by iron pegs. With even such fences rab-
bits are sometimes tempted to burrow deep and
thus go under, for the severely fixed wire fence
does not alarm them. Then if the fence be rather
low they can easily leap over it. In these days
of good market prices it is surprising that such
pests as rabbits should be so much tolerated,
yet there are millions in the country doing im-
mense harm, whilst myriads of persons would be
only too glad to purchase them for consumption
at reasonable prices. — A. D.

Lifting Vine roots. — Many gardeners do not
seem to be aware of the benefit which almost in-
variably follows the lifting of the roots of old
Vines, providing the latter are not altogether
worn out. From various causes, not the least
being excessive top-dressings, Vine roots are often
driven downwards in search of nourishment, and
being then too far from the influence of sunlight
and air, degenerate into fibreless thongs, inferior
crops and shanked berries following in due course.

Such Vines are often condemned and rooted out,
new borders being made and young Vines planted,
but this expense might often be spared and better
results obtained by carefully removing the soil,
lifting and carefully preserving the roots, rectify-
ing the drainage if necessary, and after incorpo-
rating some good sweet loam with a portion of
the original soil, adding more rubble and some
horse manure, relaying the roots on a firm
bottom some (5 inches from the surface, and after
cutting back any decayed or useless ends and
freely notching the remainder, covering them first
with an inch of extra sharp sandy soil, and finally
with 5 inches of the ordinary soil. Many old
Vines treated in this way yield far better crops
of drapes than they did when considered to be in
their prime, or, say, the first ten years after
planting. The work should be done when
the foliage is changing colour, so that new root-
lets may be formed even before the Vines go to
re^t. If needs be, Hamburghs may be forced early
the following season, but it is always well where
practicable to start the house a month later to
give the Vines the best possible chance. Some
Vines so treated last autumn have this year
broken from a fortnight to three weeks earlier
than for many years previous, and growth looks
strong and healthy. Of course, if when the roots
are lifted all new soil can be spared, so much the
better. — J. C.

Disbudding Peaches. — In reading the article
on disbudding Peaches on p. 25, I could not
but notice the remarks of " W. G. C," who says
that he always does disbudding of Peaches him-
self. I think there are many young readers
like myself who will be disagreeably surprised
to hear that foremen are incapable of doing
that work, and should say "W. G. C.'s" place is
not a large establishment if he disbuds entirely
himself. In places where there are three or four
Peach houses and perhaps 2U0 yards of Peach
casing, the gardener would have many other
duties to attend to other than Peach-disbudding.
What, a blow to all foremen aspiring to the posi-
tion of head gardener to hear that they are de-
ficient in that branch of gardening, also to know,
if they are lucky in getting into a good place, that
they cannot depend upon a foreman. What are
they to do then'; Must they ask advice from older
hands'; In myopinion. in many of ourfinest gardens
the Peaches are under the management of fore-
men trained by their former masters. There are
very many painstaking and energetic young men
at the present time who no doubt can be (and are)
depended upon to do satisfactorily the by no means
hard task of disbudding Peaches. — Foreman.

Apple Loddington Seedling. — The note
on this kitchen Apple (p. Ill) by " S. H." only
serves to show more plainly that while a certain
variety behaves in the best possible manner in
one district, in another its success is reduced
almost to a minimum. Nowhere have I seen this
Apple (which is more often known under the
name of Stone's, owing to the fact of the original
tree being found on Mr. Stone's farm at Lod-
dington, in Kent) giving such good results as at
Barham Court, where Mr. Woodward finds that
it flourishes remarkably well in loamy, porous
soil of good depth. Here in our heavier retentive
soil the branches show a disposition to canker,
and at no time since planted have our trees given
even a fair crop. — E. M.

Cherry St. Margaret. — Most of the best
fruits receive so many synonyms that it is diffi-
cult for those with only a slight knowledge of
varieties to judge or understand wh}' the kind
named St. Margaret should be called Black
Heart, Large Black Bigarreau, Elkhorn, and
Tradescant's Heart, the names also being changed
in some places to that of the locality. Despite
this drawback, the above variety is a grand fruit,
and one of the most useful late varieties we have.
It is a large black fruit, very late, and well
adapted for wall or cool house culture. In the
latter it is splendid, and being protected from
moisture and birds is very fine for dessert. The
flesh is sweet with a brisk flavour and the tree is
very free. I do not not recommend it for bush or

pyramid form in the open, as it is difficult to
keep free of birds, but it is well worth wall cul-
ture, the trees being well supplied with moisture
in the shape of liquid manure or a mulch of de-
cayed manure to keep the surface roots active.
Being later than many of the dessert Cherries, it
is worth planting in every garden where good
dessert fruits are wanted in quantity and of the
best quality. — G. Wythes.

Apple Gascoigne's Scarlet Seedling. —
From the growth made by trees in the garden
here the last three years it appears to me that this
Apple will require much space to get good re-
sults. Where space is limited, root-pruning must
be practised vigorously.to induce fruitfulness. In
Kent, where this Apple is remarkably well grown,
the trees have abundance of room to develop their
branches without root-pruning, the consequence
being fine crops of well-coloured fruit, which can-
not fail to find a ready market. Not only is this
Apple showy, but the quality is such as to place
it in the first rank as a kitchen or dessert fruit
during the early part of the winter months. —
E. M., Hants.

Apple Devonshire Quarrenden. — This
Apple is much grown here in cottage gardens.
So well does it succeed, that many of the cot-
tagers make the most of their rent from a few old
standard trees. The fruit always commands a
ready sale at 7s. 6d. per bushel. It is the first
dessert Apple ready for use in quantity in this
part. In some gardens where the soil is inclined
to be heavy and retentive of moisture the trees
are liable to canker and become thickly in.
fested with Moss and Lichen, which check their
free growth. Where the soil is loamy and fairly
dry this Apple succeeds admirably. Two years
since I counted 130 full-sized fruits on one branch
a yard long.— E. M., Bishop* Wallham.

APPLES.
The correspondent on p. 113 who expresses him-
self as perfectly astounded at any depreciatory
remarks levelled at Cox's Orange Pippin must
surely be aware of the imperative necessity of
taking soil and site, the first named especially,
into consideration when Apples are planted, and
that in the case of some varieties peculiar condi-
tions render successful culture well-nigh impos-
sible. It is, or should be, the aim of every gar-
dener to find out the sorts that are thoroughly
satisfactory and to plant them as much as possible
to the exclusion of others, and it is hardly likely
that well-known growers will exclude a high-class
Apple unless it bo found wanting in some respect.
I think the remarks made by " A. Y. A." will be
welcomed by all those who have found a difficulty
in growing the variety above named, Ribston Pip-
pin, Margil, and one or two more. It would be
difficult to find a more striking instance of the
likes and dislikes of the Ribston in a limited area
than is furnished by our cankered trees (which are
being gradually worked out) and the magni-
ficent specimens at Pain's Hill, probably about the
finest espalier Ribstons in the kingdom, a sight
when laden with fruit to gladden the eyes of any
fruit tree lover. They are growing in a very old
low-lying kitchen garden in rich black soil, appa-
rently of great depth. Cox's certainly does better
with me than Ribston, but it cannot be pro-
nounced a success, being below average both in
crop and size and the fruit destitute of colour.
To speak well of the "bridge that carries one
over" is a sound maxim in fruit growing, and for
our light sandy soil the best dessert Apples are
King of Pippins, Adams' Pearmain, Cornish Aro-
matic, and Cockle Pippin, great and consistent
croppers, and giving fruit of fair average size.
Cornish Gilliflower crops fairly well, but unless
the trees are netted quite early in the season the
fruit is of little use ; the blackbird seems perfectly
aware of its high quality and makes a persistent
attack directly the bush'fruits are over. A good
word has been said for Mannington's Pearmain.
It does very well here, but I should not grow it
in preference to the two latest of the four varie-
ties above named.

E. Borrell.

172

THE GARDEN.

[March 9, 1895.

Flower Garden.

LILIUM LONGIFLORUM HARRISI.

There are two widely divergent opinions con-
cerning this Lily, depending upon the stand-
point from which it is viewed, for by the botanist
it is regarded (and rightly so) as a variety of L.
longiflorum, while the horticulturist usually con-
siders it a distinct species under the name of
Lilium Harrisi. It is undoubtedly the most
popular Lily in cultivation at the present time, i
and is grown in immense numbers by all our ■'
florists. A striking proof of its popularity is
furnished by the fact that it is indeed rare during
several months of the year to pass a florist's
establishment without seeing its long pure white
blossoms exposed for sale either in a cut state
or on growing plants in pots. The quantity of
this Lily that passes through Co vent Garden
Market alone during the season must be some-
thing enormous. It is now twelve years
since Lilium Harrisi was sent here from
Bermuda, and at that time among the several
distinctive features claimed for it was that it
flowered so much earlier than L. longiflorum,
while after blooming, secondary stems were
pushed up, which in their turn produced
blossoms.

This is strictly true as far as freshly im-
ported bulbs are concerned, but after one
season's growth in this country it does not
(under the same conditions) flower any or
but little earlier than the other members of
the longiflorum group, and in another year
the difference, if any, totally disappears. Its
precocious character is induced by the con-
ditions under which the bulbs have been
grown, for not only do they attain a greater
vigour in Bermuda than they do with us,
but the season is also so much earlier, that
we receive thoroughly well ripened bulbs
from there before those in this country are
out of bloom. The earliest bulbs reach here
by the end of July, and in another month
they are widely distributed throughout the
country. As the bulbs at that time are
ready to push forth roots at the base, they
should for early flowering at least be potted
directly they are received and kept moder-
ately moist till growth commences. A cold
frame just to keep off any unusual quantity
of rain will suit them well when first potted,
or they may be stood out of doors and
covered with ashes, as is done in the case
of Hyacinths and other bulbs when grown in
quantity. If this latter treatment is followed,
care must be taken that the covering is re-
moved as soon as the shoots get clear of the
soil, otherwise they will be greatly weakened
thereby. The protection of a greenhouse will
suit this Lily well during the winter, but its
cultivation has been so often dwelt upon in
The Garden, that nothing more remains to be
said on that point, except to call attention to
the great damage quickly clone by aphides if
they are allowed to effect a lodgment on the
plants. They first of all attack the young un-
folding leaves in the centre of the plant, and
unless closely inspected their presence may not
be noticed till irreparable injury is done, for
the embryo flower-buds are situated there, and
a few punctures from these insects will cause
the blossoms to be deformed. In speaking
above of the great advantages of early potting
for those that are needed to bloom first, it is as
well to point out that mcst of the Bermuda
bulbs are received here at much the same time,
and are kept in their boxes on shelves in
dealers' warehouses or similar places not con-

ducive to their welfare, for this, in common with
all other Lilies, suffers a f»ood deal if kept dry
after the usual season to recommence growth
has come round. It is true many will flower if
not potted till the end of the year or later, but
they are altogether wanting in the vigour of the
early potted ones. Thus for later blooming
pot fairly early, and keep as cool as is consis-
tent with safety during the winter. Apart
from its merits as a pot plant, the Bermuda
Lily is also an object of great beauty
when grown out of doors, as it will flower
beautifully in this way. If the bulbs are
planted in the autumn, the young shoots
will frequently appear above ground by the
winter, when a little loose litter may be
sprinkled over for protection, though they may
not require it, for 1 have same that were at the
commencement of this year an inch above
ground, and not being covered in any way they
were frozen for weeks, and as far as one can at
present judge, with the exception of a few out-

besides these above-mentioned there are also
Wilsoni, eximeum, grandiflorum, densatum,
Takesima, Mme. von Siebold, albo-margina-
tum, and roseo-marginatum. It must not be
supposed that all of the above represent a dis-
tinct form, for if grown together for two or
three years many of their points of difference
will disappear. H. P.

SELECTED VARIETIES OF CARNATIONS.

The National Carnation and Picotee Society
(Southern Section) have just published their re-
port for the year 1894, showing a balance in the
hands of the treasurer of £160. The exhibition
for next season will be held in the central transept
of the Crystal Palace, and a sum of £150 will be
given in prizes, but the most interesting part of
the report is the returns from twenty-two mem-
bers and exhibitors of the society, giving a selected
list of varieties. The Carnation and Picotee for
purposes of exhibition are divided into thirteen

Group of Lilium longiflorum. Harrisi, Engraved for The Gaeden from a photograph sent by
' Miss Willmott, Wartey Place, Great Warley, Essex.

side leaves, they do not seem to have suffered
any particular injury. When this Lily was first
sent here from Bermuda in quantity there used
to be a sprinkling of the typical L. longiflorum,
but of late years the stock seems to be quite
true. The typical kind is in many respects
much inferior to the variety Harrisi. When
attention was first directed to this Lily it was
at times sold under two names, Harrisi and
floribundum, but this last seems now to be
altogether dropped, and rightly so, as the two
were really identical. The specific name of
longiflorum conferred upon the type is now
somewhat of a misnomer, as in length of bloom
it is surpassed not only by its own varieties,
but also by L. neilgherrense and L. philippense
as well. L. longiflorum is not only shorter in
the tube than its variety Harrisi, but the flower
is more erect, and there are also less blooms on
a stem. Large numbers of a variety much like
Harrisi are sent here from Japan during the
winter, but though they will flower well, the
bulbs are not nearly so large as the Bermuda-
grown ones. Varietal names have been bestowed
pretty freely in the case of L. longiflorum, as

classes, and it is these divisions and sub-divisions
that puzzle the amateur when first attempting the
culture of these fine garden flowers, but anyone
with the least knowledge of colours can readily
distinguish the different clas ses.

When the "Carnation Manual" was published
by the society three years ago similar returns
were obtained, and a comparison between the two
is interesting. In the classes of flakes and bizarres
the best twenty-four varieties are as follows, and
the number of votes are given to each: Robert
Houlgrave, 17; Robert Lord, 14; Admiral Curzon,
14 — same as in 1892. Crimson bizarres: Master
Fred, 15: Rifleman, 13; J. D. Hextall, 12. In
1S92 Harrison Weir was second, Rifleman first,
and Master Fred third. Pink and purple bizarres :
William Skirving, 18; Sarah Payne, 17 ; Harmony,
7. In 1892 Mrs. Barlow occupied the place of
Harmony. Purple flakes: James Douglas, IS;
Charles Henwood, 17; George Melville, 11. In
1892 Gordon Lewis held the place of Charles Hen-
wood. Scarlet flakes : Sportsman, 18;Alismond,
15 ; Miss Constance Grahame, 13. Miss Constance
Grahame has taken the place of Matador, which
has fallen into the fourth place. Rose flakes :
Thalia, 16; Rob Rov, 15; Sybil, 11. Thalia stood
at the top with 17 in 1S92, Sybil next with 16,

March 9, 1895 J

THE GARDEN.

17 3

Rob Roy 12. The above twenty-four varieties is
a selection from seventy-eight, and as they areall
well known and cultivated by the fanciers, they

always proclaiming how ' 'umble he is,' " &c, and
"Peebles," Peter, in Scott's " Redgauntlet, "a
disreputable pauper with a craze for litigation

may be depended upon to be the best selection and so , on with more or less detail the student sees
obtainable The best eighteen Picotees come out at a glance the main points of a character he p
Heavy red edge: Brunette, 16; John ■■

as under .

Smith, 16; Ganymede, 15. The last-named is
new one, and has rapidly risen to a high position.
It has taken the place of B. Bryant. Light
edged red: Thomas William, 18; Mrs. Gorton, 18;
Miss Violet Douglas, 16. The same three headed
the list in 1892 with 17 votes each. Heavy purple
edged: Muriel, 18; Amy Robeart, 15; Zerhna, 14.
In 1892 they stood with Mrs. Chancellor second
and Amy Robsart in the fourth place. Light
purple edged; Ann Lord, 17; Clara Penson, 15;
Mary, 13. In 1892 they held the same position.
Heavv rose and scarlet: Mrs. Sharpe, 18; Mrs.
Payne, 14; Little Phil, 14. Edith D'Ombrain
held the place in 1892 now occupied by Little
Phil. Licrht rose and scarlet edged : Liddington s
Favourite, 18; Nellie, 16; Ethel, 11. The same
as 1892. The above selection is from sixty-nine
vaiietiee. In the yellow ground Picotees the best
eighteen varieties are: Mrs. K. Sydenham, 17;
Countess of Jersey, 17; Lilian, 14; Agnes Cham-
bers, 13; Annie Douglas, 12; Mrs. Henwood, 12;
Mrs. Whitbourn, 10; Almira, 7; Mrs. Douglas,
7; Ladas, 7; Aurora, 6; Mrs. Dranfield, 6; Florrie
Henwood, 6; Stadrath Bail, 5; Undine, 5; Mrs.
Alfred Tate, 4 ; Romulus, 4 ; Chrysolora, 4. The
best twenty four self-coloured varieties are Hayes'
Scarlet, 10; Niphetos, 9; Germania, 9; Water-
witch, 8 ; King of Crimsons, 7 ; Mrs. Louisa Jame-
son, 7; Mephisto, C; Ruby, 6; Miss Audrey Camp-
bell, 5; Miss Ellen Tenv, 5; Mrs. R. Hole, 5;
King of Scarlets, 5; Mrs. Fred, 5; Emmie, 4;
Oriflamme, 3; Ketton Rose, 3; Burn Pink, 3;
Lady Gwendoline, 3; Meteor, 3: Duke of Orleans,
3; King Arthur, 3; Eudoxia, 3: Royal Purple, 3;
Abigail, 3. Some of the above yellow ground
Picotees and self-coloured Carnations will take
higher positions when they are better known.
Amongst yellow ground varieties, Mrs. Douglas,
Ladas, Mrs. Dranfield, Florrie Henwood, Mrs.
Alfred Tate, President Carnot, and Mrs. Gooden
have not yet been grown by anyone except the
raisers of them. It is very remarkable that Hayes'
Scarlet in selfs should go at one bound to the top of
the list, but it is evidence of the superior quality of
that variety. Niphetos holds a very high position,
as coming in second. Other new varieties, as
Waterwitch, Mephisto, Miss Audrey Campbell,
Miss Ellen Terry, Duke of Orleans, King Arthur,
Eudoxia, and Royal Purple, will certainly go up
higher when they are grown as border varieties.
At present they, like the yellow ground varie-
ties, have been confined to a very restricted area.

J. Douglas.

haps frequently hears mentioned in conversation
without being put to the trouble of reading up i the
character in the original. So also names which
frequently occur when old myths and legends are
talked about. There are also lists of English
authors with dates, a pronouncing list of classical
and scriptural names, &c, together with nearly
eight hundred engravings on wood ; it is printed
in clear and readable type, and the price, 7s. 6d.,
is not by any means exorbitant.

Books.

THE STUDENT'S ENGLISH DICTIONARY.*

Although not too large for convenient reference,
this dictionary seems very complete. A diction-
ary intended for the use of students, and as such
occupying a place midway between a school
dictionary and a bulky lexicon, it seems to fulfil
its purpose admirably. Although nominally a
new edition, its editor claims for it that it is in
fact anew work, "since not only have all the old
articles been thoroughly revised and to a great ex-
tent re- written, but many thousands of additional
articles have been inserted." What is a new fea-
ture, we think, as regards dictionaries, and a valu-
able addition to the present work, will be found in
the appendices composing a list of names in fiction,
mythology, &c, and a key to literary allusions.
Thus to take a few familiar instances : Under the
head of " Heep," Uriah is summed upas "clerk to
Mr. Wickfield, the lawyer, in Dickens's 'David Cop-
perfield,' a sneaking and malignant character,
— *~ lTThe Student's English Dictionary." By John
Ogilvie, LL.D., being a new edition, revised and
greatly augmented by Charles Annandale, M.A.,
LL.D.

THE FOREST FLORA OF JAPAN.*
Japan has come in for a good deal of patting on the
back of late. It has become the fashion to write
books about Japan. In adopting Western forms of
government and ideas, at least outwardly, and
taking advantage of the most modern inventions
and appliances of Western science, she has shown
an adaptability all the more remarkable because
so contrary to the traditions, the customs and the
spirit of Eastern peoples. Her marvellous and
unsuspected wood fortune in her hostilities with
her larger, richer, more populous, but conservative
and backward neighbour have won for Japan a
host of admirers, some of them even sincere. The
present work is only ODe of many books about
Japan we have recently had the pleasure of
reviewing, and it is certainly not the least valuable
contribution to Japanese literature. Japan's
wealth in tree species is perhaps not surpassed by
any country of the world. It has been shown that,
rich as Eastern America is in the extent and
variety of her forest produce, Japan and the
regions north of it, in spite of their comparatively
small area, are still richer. Many years ago,
Professor Asx (iray wrote that in the Japan-
Manchurian region he found 168 trees divided
among sixty-six genera, and in Eastern America
155 trees in sixty-six genera, the enumeration in
both cases being confined "to timber trees or
such as attain in the most favourable localities to
a size which gives them a clear ti tie to the arboreous
rank." Since Professor Gray published the results
of his investigations it has been proved that of the
trees enumerated a number are not indigenous to
Japan, but were brought there long ago fromChina
and Korea, like most of the plants cultivated by the
Japanese. "The proportion, "says theauthorin his
int reduction to the book, ' ' of trees to the whole flora
of Japan is remarkable, being about 1 to 10 14,
the number of indigenous flowering plants and
vascicular cryptogams being not far from 2500
species. Still more remarkable is the large pro-
portion of woody plants to the whole flora. In
Japan proper there are certainly not less than 325
species of shrubs, or 550 woody plants in all, or
one woody plant in every 4 55 of the whole flora—
a much larger percentage than occurs in any part
of North America." Remoteness, bad roads, and
the impossibility of bringing down their timber
to the valleys have saved the mountain forests of
Japan, which may still be seen, especially between
5000 feet and 8000 feet above the sea level, in their
natural condition. These elevated forests are,
however, composed of comparatively few species.
On the mountain slopes 5000 feet above the sea
the Hemlock forms continuous and almost un-
broken forests of great extent. An almost
impenetrable mass of dwarf Bamboos of several
species forms the undergrowth of these forests
even high on the mountains and in the north.
To this abundance of the Bamboo, making im-
possible the growth of all except the most
vigorous species of under shrubs, the author
attributes the climbing habits in many Japanese
plants, " which are obliged to ascend the trees
in search of sun and light, for the Japanese
forest is filled with climbing shrubs, which
* " The Forest Flora of Japan." By Charles Sprague
Sargent, Director of the Arnold Arboretum, of Harvard
University. Houghton, M'fflin & Co., Boston and New
Ycrk.

flourish into tropical luxuriance." The book
contains chapters on the Magnolias, the Tern-
stromias, Linden and Rues, Holly, Euonymus
and Buckthorns, Maples, Sumachs and Peas,
the Roses, Witch-Hazel and Aralia, Cornels,
Honeysuckles and Persimmons, the Styrax, tho
arborescent members of the Heath family, the
Ashes and their allies, the Laurel, Euphorbia and
Nettles, Walnuts, Birches, Alders and Hornbeams,
Oaks, Chestnuts, Willows and Poplars, the coni-
fers, and also a chapter on the "economic aspects
of the Japanese forests."

As regards the outward appearance of the book,
we regret to say that, although from the outside
an artistic book, the use of the commonest forms
of mechanical processes in the illustrations in lieu
of engravings has given the book a very common-
place look unworthy of its author or of the subject.
This hard style of reproducing destroys all the
value and tone of the cuts and all the charm of
distance. The same remark applies to the illus-
trations of plants, which are not shown in light
and shade, but are merely diagrams. Even where
the engraving is good the drawing is devoid of
lifht and shade. The book is printed on heavy
clay paper instead of the delightful old paper
which such books were printed on before the
present clay paper. Still wo should be grateful for
this work of Mr. Sargent, who, by his knowledge
and love of the work, is so well fitted for it.

Notes of the Week.

Great quinquennial bulb show at Haar-
lem —The fifth great quinquennial bulb show will
be held by the Royal Bulb Society of Haarlem
from March 22 to 26. The competition is open
for members of the society only. Most of the
loading firms of the famous bulb district will be
among the exhibitors.

Strobilanthes Dyerianus.— This plant is
attractive for winter decoration both in and out
of flower, its bright hues of peacock-blue and
green foliage being always pleasing. Combined
with this it is very free flowering, the flowers
being of a darkish blue. It grows very freely and
is of easy propagation, and is, I hear a good
bedding plant in America. -W. A. Cook, Complon
Basset.

Orchids from Abergavennny.— I am send-
ing a few Orchids, comprising Angneoum Hum-
bloti, the plant of which has two spikes with
two flowers on each, one of which I am sending
vou • Cypripedium Chamberlainianum, a good form
of Dendrobium nobile, D. candidissimum, and
Odontoglossum Roezli album.— G. C. Williams,
Trevoyn House Gardens, Tandy. .

* * A nice gathering of flowers. The Cypripe-
dium represented an especially good form of the
beautiful A. Chamberlainianum. The forms of
Dendrobium nobile were excellent.— Ed.

Bouvardia Priory Beauty.— This is, I think
one of the most effective of all the varieties of
Bouvardias. It is very handsome and much ad-
mired, and with us very popular. Its habit is
dwarf and erect, very free flowering, and lasts a
lone time in flower-longer than any other that 1
am acquainted with. Cuttings should be struck
at once and the plants grown on without check,
when well grown plants will commence to flower
in October and continue till February.— W. A.
Cook, Cormpton Baxset, Calne.

Salvia pulchella.— This slender growing,
evergreen, prettv shrub is generally described as a
greenhouse plant, but it is much more hardy than
is generally supposed, as it will stand from 10
to 15° of frost with impunity. It has been grow-
ing here for several years trained on a wall with
south-east aspect. Last year it made growths 9
feet long and produced its scarlet flowers for hve
or six months, or until the flower-buds were
destroyed by frost. It is easily increased by
suckers, which spring up thickly around the base
of the plant. A good sandy loam with leaf soil or

174

THE GARDEN

[March 9, 18f 5

peat suits it well. It cannot be too highly recom-
mended for covering walls in warm situations. - -
W. 0., Fota.

Phsjus grandifolius\— This fine old Orchid is
excellent for decorations. We recently noticed a
nice lot of plants in bloom at Syon House. The
value of this Orchid is its long lasting and its
freedom of flowering in small pots. In a damp
house the flowers soon spot, but if removed to a
cool, dry position remain good for weeks. We know
of no Orchid better adapted for rooms. We have
had plants four or five weeks in a living room, and
such plants flower every year. To get it in condi-
tion for this purpose feed from the surface in pre-
ference to overpotting.

The frost and shrubs and plants. — No

doubt the editor will shortly be inundated with
tales of disaster resulting from the late severe
weather. To all who intend writing such lists I
earnestly say do not, but, on the contrary, let
us have and from all quarters the fullest possible
lists of those things which have not been injured.
Should we have a series of killing winters, all the
beautiful shrubs and trees which are able to bear
with impunity the lowest temperatures we are ever
likely to have would get a chance in our gardens.
Let us try and find out what these are. — T. Smith.

Aotus g-racillima, —This is a delightful
plant and very graceful. It is at Syon House,
Brentford, in a very cool house, with such things
as require little heat, and the plants are in rather
small pots, the growths being covered with the
yellow and crimson Pea shaped flowers. The
flowers are very small, but there are few plants
which bloom more freely and are more readily
grown. If kept well cut back after flowering, a
bushy growth is encouraged, otherwise it is
inclined to become naked at the base. The plant
does not like overpotting, and good specimens
may be grown in small pots. Cuttings of the half-
ripened wood strike freely in May under a bell-
glass in sandy compost, and the young plants do
well grown in cold frames through the summer.

Persian Cyclamens at Syon House.—
During the past two months these have been
remarkably fine here, a light greenhouse being
devoted to them. Mr. Wythes relies chiefly upon
young plants, as he obtains finer blooms. I notice
that the majority are in 4|-inch pots, and the
varieties with white flowers are delightful. The
culture of Cyclamens is simple, the plants being
grown in large batches for winter bloom. The
seed is sown as soon as ripe, so that the plants
when they begin to flower are about fifteen
months old. They [are grown in frames all the
summer on a hard coal-ash bottom, and removed
into flowering quarters in November. The seed-
lings are kept on the move from the start. They
are not dried off, and the same remarks apply to
older plants, as these never lose all their old leaves
when resting. — Visitor.

Mossy lawns (E. W. B.).— One cause of the
bad condition of the lawn is undoubtedly bad
drainage. If the soil is light loam on chalk, the
soil being very wet in winter and much burnt up
in hot, dry weather, the remedy is not merely
drainage, but food in the spring to enable the
Grass to get more roothold and resist drought.
If the land is wet, take up the turf and lay drains
at about 9 feet apart, 1 foot deep, and use 3-inch
drain pipes. Give a fall to the lowest portion of
the lawn if possible. Make a good basin 3 feet to
4 feet deep at the lowest end. Fill in with rough
brick rubble. This will take away the surface
water, and it is well to also cover the drain tiles
with rubble, clinkers, or rough aBhes. Before re-
placing the soil, allow 3 inches to 6 inches of soil
over the rubble for the turf to rest on. If you do
do not drain, you must give new surface soil.
Rake away any Moss as deep as possible with an
iron long-toothed rake, and give a surface-dress-
ing of new loam and manure. Make firm and
sow seed at once, covering the latter with fine
soil. The quickest way is to re-turf, but before
so doing the soil must be well drained. Wood
ashes or burnt garden refuse of any kind mixed

with bone-meal is the best fertiliser for Grass
land, as the ashes kill the Moss and the bone-
meal encourages rapid growth. This is much
better than applying lime to a chalky soil. I
have renovated such land as yours by raking
away the Moss, sowing a fine mixture of Grass
and Clover, and using the above soil freely. It is
also well to dress such land every season early in
the year to promote a close growth. — G. W. S.

Obituary.

MR. THOMAS BAINES.

We regret to announce the death of Mr. Thomas
Baines, which took place last Saturday at
Palmer's Green from influenza and pneumonia.
Among the best gardeners few, if any, were
better known than Thomas Baines, who first
distinguished himself as a plant grower, perhaps
the best grower of our time. Afterwards he
became an author and also designer of gar-
dens. So far as we can judge in our own time,
there never was a better plant grower than
Thomas Baines, as tested both by the northern
shows and those about London. There are
people who think that to write is characteristic
of the non-practical man, but such an opinion
was not justified by the case of Thomas Baines,
because he was a voluminous writer for the
garden press and wrote an excellent book on
stove and greenhouse plants, which is indeed
the standard work on a subject he knew so well.
He was extensively engaged in laying out gar-
dens, and amongst other large places which he
planned, or greatly altered, were Glansevern,
Montgomeryshire ; Claughton-on-Brock, near
Preston ; Waddesden, Chacombe, Banbury,
Broxbournebury, Boxley and Munden Park,
Herts ; besides many minor places. Mr. Thomas
Baines was a Lancashire man, his people having
been stewards and gardeners amoDg the old
estates there for many generations. He was
seventy-two years of age, and was buried on
Thursday last in the Great Northern Cemetery,
Old Southgate.

Mr. Joseph Lakin.— We regret to hear of the
death of this well-known authority upon florists'
flowers, especially Tulips. His death took place
at Temple Cowley, near Oxford, on Monday last at
the age of sixty-seven.

The late Alderman Sir Francis Wyatt

Truscott. — The death of this prominent citizen of
London severs another tie, so to say, binding the
InternationaljHorticultur.il Exhibition of 1866with
the present day. The Corporation of the City of
London, when granting the use of the Guildhall
for the purposes of the banquet to the more
eminent foreign visitors invited to take part in
the exhibition and botanical congress in connec-
tion with it, appointed six of its members to assist
in the arrangements of the banquet, viz., Mr.
Deputy Charles Reed, afterwards Sir Charles
Reed, Mr. Deputy Obbard, and Messrs. J. E.
Saunders, J. Kelday, F. Wyatt Truscott, and W.
Lawley. Of these six, I think only Mr. W. Lawley
survives. Sir F. W. Truscott was a particularly
active helper, and materially assisted in making
the banquet a success, which was presided over
by the late Alderman Sir B. Phillips, then Lord
Mayor of London. — R. Dean.

Mr. R. B. Laird. — We regret to hear that
the death occurred on Monday, from heart disease,
of Mr. R. B. Laird, senior partner of the firm of
Messrs. R. B. Laird and Sons, nurserymen, Edin-
burgh, and W. P. Laird and Sinclair, Dundee.
He was born at Balgone, North Berwick, in 1823,
and went at an early age to Dundee, and worked
under his elder brother, the late Mr. W. P. Laird.
He came to Edinburgh in 1843, and was about
five years in the establishment of Messrs. Dickson

and Co. In 1848, with the late Mr. John Downie,
he founded the business in Frederick Street, and
lately at West Coates, which was well known
for many years as Downie and Laird. At the
dissolution of this partnership the firm was carried
on under another designation by himself and his
sons, and latterly he had been for the most part
resident in Dundee, where another branch was
established. Mr. Laird was widely known, and
was one of the remaining links between the past
and present generation of horticulturists. By
many gardeners, old and young, he will not soon
be forgotten. He was always ready to lend a
helping hand to those in need of assistance, and
he spent much time in doing what he could to
further the interests of young gardeners, and to
get them a start in life.

We are informed that Mr. William Scrymgeour,
of Shrubland Park, near Ipswich, forester to Lord
de Saumarez, and late forester to Sir Herbert
Maxwell, M.P., Monreith, Wigtonshire, N.B.,
has been appointed a government forester in the
Forest of Dean, and will commence his duties
there in the beginning of March.

The weather in West Herts. — A cold week
and the sixth in succession. It had in it, how-
ever, one mild day, March 1, this being the first
day since January 21, when the weather has been
the least unseasonably warm. In fact, since the
beginning of the year there have been as yet only
nine days when the mean temperature has been
above the average for the season. The ground is
still very cold and in shaded places remains frost-
bound. In an open spot fully exposed to the sun
where my underground thermometers are situated
the temperature at 2 feet and at 1 foot deep is
the same, and now stands 2|° above the freezing
point. During the twenty-six days ending the
3rd inst., the soil in the same open spot at 1 foot
deep remained at or below freezing. A little snow
fell on the first four days of the month, and on the
2nd and 3rd sufficient was deposited to completely
cover the ground. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

Isle of Thanet Chrysanthemum Society.

— The annual show of t lie above society will take
place at the Hall by the Sea, Margate, ou November
13 and 14.

United Horticultural and Benefit Society.
— The annual meeting of this society will take p'ace
at the Caledonian Hotel, Adelphi Terrace, Strand, on
Monday, March 11, at 8 p.m. Mr. Geo. Gordon will
preside.

Royal Horticultural Society. — The next
meeting of the R.JI.S. will be held on Tuesday,
MaTch 12, in the Drill Hall, James Street, Westminster.
Special prizes are offered for Daffodils, and at 3 p.m. a
paper by Mr. Collenette, of Guernsey, on the "Diseases
of Potatoes," will he rcad.

Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institu-
tion.— The Duke of Fife, K.T., P.O., has kindly con-
sented to preside at the fifty-sixth annual festival
dinner in aid of the funds of the Gardeners' Royal
Benevolent Institution at the Hotel Metropole on
Juue 28 next.

Garden Sketches. — Mrs. Kingsley. South of Ireland

Names of plants. — G. Sharratt. — The bloom
sent is a small, but nicely coloured form of O. tripu
dians, and though a useful free-flowering kind, is
certainly not superior to 0. triumphans, which com-
pares favourably with any of the yellow-flowered
section of the genus. O. tripudians is ana' ive of New
Grenada, and is found at a great elevation, so that it

thrives well under the coolest treatment. Inquirer.

— Crassula lactea. Cuttings strike r.iot freely in

greenhouse in light soil. J. Russell. — 1, Salvia

cocciuea; 2, Jasminum giacillimum; 3, Pelargonium
Pretty Polly; 4, Echeveria retusa.

The Wild Garden : or, the Naturalisation and Natural
Grouping of Hardy Exotic Plants, with a chapter en the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, with wood engravings
front drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged. Semy
Svo, linen cloth. Price 12s. ; well bound in half mmocco, 18»
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEN.

175

No. 1217. SATURDAY, March 16,1695. Vol. XLVll.

" This Is an Ait
Whi(h does mend Nature : change it rathtr ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

Orchids.

NOTES ON CATTLEYAS.

In such an important and widely distributed
genus as Caltleja it is not surprising that vary-
ing modes of treatment, as regards temperature
and other details, are necessary to their success-
ful culture. The season for repotting many
kinds being at hand affords growers an oppor-
tunity of noticing what progress the roots have
made, and whether the compost provided for
them is suitable or the reverse. It is unfortu-
nately often found that these have been seeking
the outside of the pot, while in the compost there
\< baldly a root deeper than an inch below the
; r.rface. In such a case it is clear that the rooting
i] edium has been too close and heavy, possibly
in too great bulk, and lacking hard, incompres-
sible substances for the roots to cling to and
for aerating the compost. The use of sand in
the potting material has also much to answer
for with regard to this state of affairs, and
whenever I have had occasion to repot Orchids
of this class where this material has been used,
I have invariably found the roots more or less
decayed owing to it. Strong-growing and root-
ing species, as C. Mossise and C. Triame, may
force a few roots into a compost of this descrip-
tion, but if long subjected to such treatment
the health of the plants would a itainly be im-
paired, while C. Walkeriana, C. dolosa, or even
C. aurea, on the other hand, would never root
in it at all. These weaker-growing Cattleyas
like a small shallow pan or basket, with rough,
open material about their roots, and if room
can be found for them near the glass, they will
thrive much better than if arranged upon the
stages. It may, in fact, be taken as an axiom
that the larger growing a plant is, the larger
receptacle, comparatively, will be required for
its roots, and vice versa. The time for repotting
depends a good deal upon the species. Most of
the late summer and autumn-flowering Cattleyas
of the labiata, Dowiana, and Gaskelliana types,
also C. bicolor, 0. guttata, and others cf that
section, may be potted when commencing to grow
in the spring. ( '. Mossite, C. Trianae, C. VVai ne ri,
and C. Mendeli should have attention as they
go out of flower. It is in many cases best to
anticipate if possible the annual emission of
roots from the newly-formed pseudo-bulbs, as
this at once establishes the plants in their new
pots. I have not unfreqtiently left 0. Warneri
until quite late in August before repotting, and
the plants have at once obtained a good hold on
the compost by the roots from the pseudo-bulbs
that had flowered in July. C. labiata an
tumnalis does not usually produce roots from
its pseudo-bulbs until after these have flowered
and are commencing to grow again, and this
should be the time chosen for repotting. Thus
instances nvght be multiplied, but the principle
is the same in all. Amateurs should, there-
fore, be on the watch and find out for them-
selves the proper time for their cultural opera-
tions, performing these not in a mechanical
manner, but as a means to an end, and keeping
this end constantly in view. This applies not
only to potting, but also to heating or watering
— in short, to all the various details cf culture.
No one acquainted with the habits of Cattleyas
would think of exciting them, for instance, dur-

ing winter, as it is well known that growth pro-
duced under the conditions which obtain at this
season las none of the robust character so
necessary to free-flowering. C. Mossise is often
late in making its growth, and should, in order
to ripen this, have a light and warm position
after flowering before the sun loses its power
in autumn. C. suptiba and C. Dowiana, too,
delight in this extra heat, but as they flower
upon the current year's growth, this is required
earlier— in fact all through the season, only
being careful not to excite them after flowering
for the reasons above mentioned. That gem
among spring-flowering Cattleyas, C. Law-
renceana, coming as it does from British
Guiana, naturally requires a good deal of heat
and a light, sunny position not too far removed
from the roof glass. Enough has been men-
tioned to show the point intended, and if culti-
vators note and provide for the peculiarities of
their plants, they will find that with their suc-
cess the interest in their collections will in a
like manner increase. H. R.

Ccelogyne cristata alba.— This is no doubt
one of the finest white Orchids we have. The
flowers are of the purest white, without the
faintest tint of any colour whatever. Flowers are
to hand from W. McDonald, and also "J. C,"
which certainly show the results of gocd culture
by the size of the individual blooms and the
number on the spike. This fine plant, although
at one time exceedingly rare, has during the past
few years become more plentiful. — G.

Oncidium Cavendishianum.— This fine On-
cidium belongs to a group which is distinguished
by being without pseudo-bulbs and having large,
thick and leathery foliage. In this group are in-
cluded such species as O. Lanceanum, 0. huidum,
&C., the leaves of these kinds being much larger
and thicker than others of this genus having
bulbs to support them. O. Cavendishianum was
first discovered by Mr. Ure-Skinner in Guatemala,
and it has since been imported from Mexico. It
is now more than fifty years ago since it was first
seen in this country. The flowers appear usually
from April to May, but a fine specimen is now in
bloom at the Exotic Nurseries, Cheltenham. The
spike, which prows erect, often attains '.i feet in
length, and carries a many-flowerei panicle.
The flowers individually measure about 1 J inches
in diameter, the sepals and petals greenish
yellow, heavily spotted with red, the latter being
nicely undulated ; the lip is very prominent, threc-
lobed, side lobes spreading, and, like the front one,
of a bright clear yellow. It is a very beautiful
and easily managed species, and the flowers are
sweetly scented. — G.

Epidendrum O'Brienianum.- -What a splen-
did plant this is for growing where cut flowers are
in demand, for when it gets thoroughly esta-
blished it will continue producing its long flower-
spikes throughout the whole year. At the Exotic
Nurseries, Cheltenham, this fine hybrid is espe-
cially well grown. It is also astonishing the
length of time the individual spikes will continue
in perfection, for as fast as the lower blossoms
fade, fresh flowers appear at the top. It is the
finest of all the Reed-like Epidendrums, and the
first hybrid in this genus combining the brilliant
scarlet - carmine of one parent with the deeper
purple of the other.— G.

Odontoglossum luteo-purpureum.— A fine
specimen of this grand Odontoglot is now in flower
.it Mr. Cypher's nurseries at Cheltenham. It bears
a spike of sixteen blooms. These individually
measure over 4 inches in diameter and are ex-
ceedinoly showy. The sepals and petals are nearly
equal, oblong and lanceolate, the latter being more
wavy and undulated, of a bright yellow, blotched
and marked with rich brown ; the petals are
almost entirely bright chestnut-brown, tipped
yellow, and with a narrow line of the same colour
running across each. The lip in this plant is very
conspicuous and contrasts well with the other

daik segments ; this is of a clear yellow with a
large chestnut reddish blotch immediately in front
of the crest, which is composed of many teeth-like
processes, all pointing forward. This fine species
is one of the most beautiful kinds in the whole
genus, and was discovered in New Grenada grow-
ing in the forests on the mountains at about 8000
feet or more elevation, which indicates that quite
cool treatment under cultivation is necessary. In
growth and habit the plant much resembles the
popular O. crispum, but is larger in every respect.
It will succeed well when grown with 0. crispum
and always flowers freely. There are many va-
rieties of this plant, all of which are decidedly
beautiful and easily recognised as belonging to this
fine type. — W.

Sophronitis grandiflora.— During the pre-
sent season I have been pleased to see how well
this brightly-coloured little epiphyte has been
flowering, especially around the neighbourhood of
London, but although in these localities the
plants are kept in excellent condition and in-
duced to bloom freely, it is not possible to pro-
duce such fine blooms as are seen on plants that
are cultivated in a country atmosphere. I am in
receipt of several flowers from various correspon-
dents in different places, all of which show finer
colour than those grown nearer town. The finest
form I have comes from Mr. J. Cypher, the
flowers being of large size and good shape, the
shade of rich orange-vermilion being brighter than
I have seen on any previous occasion. This little
plant is without doubt a grand Orchid, especially
for amateurs, as it occupies but little space and
succeeds well with quite cool culture.— W.

COMPARETTIAS.

ALTHOt'iiH it is early in the season for these
plants to be in bloom, I was agreeably surprised
to receive flowers of C. falcata from a friend
who is a beginner in Orchid culture, but who,
judging from the spike sent, is in a fair way to
successes the plant, purchased at a sale of an
old collection in the neighbourhood, was not in
the best of condition when it came into his
hands. The members of this genus have long
been in cultivation, but have not made great
headway, either from lack of interest or because
growers, as a rule, have not been successful
with them. The cause of this non-success is, I
think, in the atmosphere provided for them,
and not because of any inherent weakness in the
plants. As 1 have before stated in these pages,
small-growing Orchids of many kinds will not
thrive" in a house where the temperature is
always fluctuating and heat and moisture are
not effectively balanced. These plants will be
most satisfactory in a house such as suits the
New Grenadan Odontoglots as O. grande, and
they undoubtedly like a moisture-laden atmo-
sphere all through the season as far as prac-
ticable. They may be grown on blocks with
Sphao-num Moss, provide 1 due attention is
<dveu to watering the roots and sprinkling the
foliage while in growth, but they are perhaps
safer" in the shallow pans that are so freely used
for dwarf Orchids. These must, however, be
only of sufficient size to allow of a very narrow-
margin round the plants, and must be filled
nearly to the brim with drainage material, a
thin surfacing of Sphagnum Moss berng all that
is required in the way of compost. The species
named below are natives of the mountainous
parts of Central and South America.

C coccinea is an extremely bright and effectivo
Orchid, flowering on the young or current growth :
the racemes bear four or five bright scarlet and
vellow flowers. The sepals are small and narrow,
the lip broad and spreading. It flowers from Sep-
tember till November. _

C falcata is a similar species to the last
named, but a better grower, and produces larger
flower spikes. The floweis have a purple tinge

17 G

THE GARDEN

[March 16, 18S5.

which is very attractive. I have seen this plant
growing wen jn a shallow wooden basket suspended
from the roof with the cool section of Odonto-
glossums where the winter temperature never fell
below 45°.

C. maoeopi.ectbon is a native of New Grenada,
and much more recently introduced than the pre-
ceding. The flowers are shaded magenta, with
deeper spots. It grows freely, and generally
flowers more freely than the other kinds named.
Other older kinds are C. rosea, C. speciosa, and
C. saccata. JL r_

Ccelogyne Massangeana [George ffemmings)-

—This lovely species will produce its spikes at' all
seasons of the year, and when once they com-
mence they are developed with great rapidity.
It is very free growing and a proline bloomer, and
one that requires but little attention to grow it
successfully. Place the plant in a well-drained
basket or pot and use fibrous peat and Sphagnum
Moss. The plant should be suspended near the
roof, in order that it may have the benefit of
plenty of light, and the long, pendulous spikes
will then be seen to the best advantage. The
sepals and petals are buff-yellow, the lip very
fleshy, dark brown, prettify lined and marked
with light yellow. It has been known for a num-
ber of years and is supposed to be a native of
Assam.— G.

Masdevallia Veitchiana grandiflora. —

This fine species of Masdevallia has a flower of
remarkable and lovely colour. A fine flower of the
true variety of the grandiflora form comes from
Mr. James Cypher, of Cheltenham. This is of
tine size and substance, the upper sepal being
entirely covered with rich crimson papilla?, as is
also the larger portion of the lower sepals. When
looking at the bloom sideways it is of a bluish
shade, intermixed with orange-scarlet and a colour
which is indeed very difficult for an artist to re-
produce. The original M. Veitchiana was dis-
covered on the Andes, of Peru, at some 1 1,000 feet
or 12,0(10 feet elevation nearly thirty years ago
This, however, has smaller flowers and is less
brilliant in colour than the variety above referred
to. — H.

Cymbidium Lowianum.— Several flowers of
this useful Orchid are to hand, some being very
much better than others. Those from J. Edwards
are very green and the blotch on the lip is of a
very light shade; this cannot be called a good
variety. The finest I have seen this year is that
from -'G. R.," which has sepals and petals of a
fine yellow, the blotch on the lip of a very rich
reddish crimson, distinctly bordered with yellow
I am not aware of the greatest number of flowers
that have appeared upon a spike, but last season
one came from Mr. Letts, of Aske Hall, which had
either twenty-seven or twenty-nine finely-formed
biooms. — W.

Cypripedium Godseffianum. — I recently
noticed a fine and highly coloured form of this
beautiful hybrid, which is no doubt one of the
mest beautiful crosses effected with C. hirsutissi-
mum, the other parent being C. Boxalli This
was raised by Mr. Norman C. Cookson, of Wvlam-
on-Tyne, and flowered for the first time about six
or seven years ago. The dorsal sepal is pale
yellow, spotted with small dark brown spots -the
petals are nicely undulated and light yellow at
the base becoming quite a pale blue on the apical
half, and densely spotted with blackish dots • the
lip is of good shape and of a pale brownish yellow.

\\ . H. (r.

Odontoglossum nebulosum. — Odontoglos-
sum nebulosum is an old inhabitant of our gar-
dens, and a very useful species for growing in the
cool house, its large flowers being very accept-
able about April and May, which is its usual
time ot blooming. At the present time it should
prove eyen more valuable, but it is not to be
expected that the plant will continue to flower so
early in the season. The bloom sent by W Turner
appears to be of a very good variety, with the spots
of a nice red-brown, but it is a pity that a little
more care is not taken when packing cut flowers

so that they will arrive at their destination in a
fresh condition. This plant is a native of Mexico,
and by no means a new kind, as suggested,
it having been imported into this country
about sixty years ago. The cultivation of cool-
growing Orchids was not then understood, and
consequently such kinds as this and many others
failed to grow well. Thus some of the best kinds
were not again introduced for many years later.
This species varies considerably in its flowers,
some being larger and some more heavily spotted
than others. In the variety O. nebulosum can
didissimum the spotting is almost absent, whilst
some range down to dark brownish red. Do not
allow the plant to become weakened by leaving
the flowers on too long. — W.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

PRUNING FILBERTS.

is assured, a mulch of good manure will act
splendidly, causing the foliage and fruit to attain
a large and healthy size, and assisting the trees to
form fruit-buds for another year. No trees pay
better, if so well, for liberal treatment as Nuts,
and yet few if any trees receive so little aid in
that respect in many places. Even the common
Hazel appreciates a dressing of manure, being
almost unrecognisable after such an application"
the Nuts acquiring a much improved appearance,
also being produced in very large clusters.

W. G. C.

In many gardens both Cob Nuts and Filberts are
the most neglected of all fruit-bearing trees,
seldom getting properly pruned, man ured, or other-
wise attended to. This may arise from a variety
of causes, such as being in out of-the-way situa-
tions, and therefore possibly forgotten in the
press of work that must be done in the houses
and kitchen garden, March and April being
always a busy time, and which is the right season
for pruning the trees. All experienced Nut
growers that I have known never prune until
after the flowering period, their contention being
that it is desirable to have as many catkins as
possible, so that plenty of pollen may be obtained
to set the female flowers. That their theory is
correct must be palpable to all, for if the pruning
were done early many of the male blossoms would
of necessity be cut away, and there would be a
danger of an insufficiency of pollen to secure a
good set or crop. In my own case this year most
of the catkins were more or less developed before
the severe frost set in, and I am afraid they will
be of no value for fertilising. Fortunately, the
common Hazel in the hedgerows is not so forward,
and branches may be cut from the trees with
plenty of catkins thereon and placed in the
Filbert and Cob Nut trees when the female flowers
expand, thus aiding Nature to perfect the functions
of the trees.

Those who attended the conference held in
connection with the great fruit show at the
Crystal Palace will remember the advice given by
Mr. Wise in his excellent paper on the pruning of
Nuts, in which he stated that the centre of the
bushes or trees should be cut out, leaving the
main outside branches to grow on unchecked for
two or three years, and then bending them out-
wards and securing them to stakes, which gives a
large and prolific bush in a few years from time
of planting. The trees that I saw at Lord
Sudeley's immense fruit plantation at Toddington
trained on that system were models of what such
trees should be, and by the plan of bringing
down the main branches in the manner described
it appeared to act as a check on any grossness of
habit, and induced the formation of plenty of small
wood adapted to produce heavy crops of Nuts.
No graver mistake in Nut culture could be made
than to cut away the major portion of the fine
twiggy wood, leaving all the strong shoots, as it
is the thin wood that really bears the crop, but, if
late summer pruning is done no strong shoots will
be present in spring, as they will be either en-
tirely removed or shortened back, according to the
judgment of the grower. At the same time while
plenty of thin wood is desirable, care should be
exercised that it does not become too congested or
too thick in the middle of the tree, thereby im-
peding light and air and also acting as a harbour
for insect foes. Ail suckers ought to be removed as
they appear unless required for increasing the
stock ; when allowed to grow they act as robbers to
the trees and do more or less injury to them.
Immediately it is seen that a good crop of Nuts

Bullfinches and fruit buds.— I hear on all
sides lamentable accounts of the great damage
done to fruit trees— particularly Plums and Goo5e-
berries— by bullfinches and other birds, but
chiefly the former. It is all very well to advise
people to protect the feathered tribe, but if thes3
sentimental people suffered a serious loss in their
pockets year after year they would alter their
opinions and say with me, "Kill every bullfinch
you possibly can." — W. G. C.

Grape Mrs. Pince.— Mr. A. Young recently
referred to this late Grape and notified that it did
well with him. It may interest him to learn that
it does well at several places in East Anglia. At
Blickling two years ago I saw some magnificent
bunches in September; they were of good size and
well-shouldered, the berries being of extra size
and beautifully coloured. On questioning Mr.
Oclee, the gardener, as to the cause of its supe-
riority, he remarked that when the border was
made a large percentage of lime refuse was incor-
porated with the soil, and that he really thought
this was the secret. This is a grand Grape when
well done, but when only indifferently coloured, as
it is in the majority of cases, it soon shrivels. Id
used to do wonderfully well at Cromer Hall some
years ago, and I believe the soil in that locality
is of a limy nature. Overcropping is not the only
cause of bad colour in Mrs. Pince, as I have
known cases where only a few bunches were
allowed to remain on strong Vines, yet they were
almost red. I think soil and situation have more
to do with the success or otherwise of many
Grapes than general management, and with Mrs.
Pince in particular. Those capricious Grapes
Duke of Buccleuch and Golden Champion do
better at Hutton Hall than in many places, the
treatment given to them by Mr. Mclndoe being
the same as that accorded to the majority of other
sorts at Hutton. This leads me to think that the
bracing air of the Cleveland Hills suits these two
white Grapes, and prevents the appearance of the
dreaded spot, which practically spoils these varie-
ties. Mrs. Pince is a Grape well worth experi-
menting with in the shape of grafting and inarch-
ing, as there probably exists some variety which
used as a stock would produce perfect bunches
and berries of this highly-flavoured Grape.— J.
Crawford.

Apple Barneck Beauty. — I was much
pleased to note a paragraph in a recent issue of
The Garden referring to the many merits of the
above Apple and recommending it for more ex-
tensive planting. From the fact of seldom seeing
it mentioned I was afraid it was an unsatisfactory
variety generally, but the comments upon it by
"G. C. R." coupled with the valuable testimony
of such an able fruit grower as Mr. Woodward, of
Barham Court, have dispelled the illusion. Having
had the pleasure of visiting that astute gardener
and fruit grower, Mr. Gilbert, Burghley, seme
twelve years ago, he spoke strongly in favour of
Barnack Beauty (although never certificated, as
he naively remarked). Ultimately he jundly sent
me a plant of it to try, and although a light, thin
stony soil is the reverse of an ideal one for Apples,
yet this variety has made nice clean short-jointed
wood, free from canker (the bane of Apple trees
here), and bears annually heavy crop3 of well-
coloured fruit of good eating and keeping qualities.
It is a variety I should regret to be without.
The knowledge that it thrives so remarkably well
under good cultivation and in favoured situations
is gratifying, and perhaps its value for general

March 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN^

177

planting is somewhat enhanced by its proving
satisfactory under adverse circumstances such as
ours. — Grower.

APPLE PEASGOOD'S NONSUCH.
This is one of the best of the newer introductions
and of good quality, useful either for cooking or
for dessert. It is one of the best exhibition fruits.
In appearance this fruit is somewhat like a good
form of Blenheim Orange, less conical perhaps,
but highly coloured when well grown. It does
well in Kent, and I well remember the grand
examples shown at the R. H.S. congress held at
Chiswick in 1883 by Mr. Haycock, then in
charge of Barham Court Gardens, Maidstone.
This Apple being at that time less known was of
great interest, and from that date appears to
have been planted
largely. The fruits
shown weighed 1 lb.
each and measured
13 inches to ID in.
in circumference.
Those figured were
grown at Sitting-
bourne, in Kent. /
I find this Apple ,

will command the best price ; indeed, there is
always a greater demand for such fruits than
others. 1 am well aware we have any quantity
of Apples fit for use at the time this comes in,
but we have few approaching it in appearance.
Most of the imported fruits sent to this country
are sold because of their appearance, as a poor-
looking, home-grown fruit will stand no chance
against the bri liant foreign importations. I
have seen this variety recommended as suitable
for orchard culture as a standard, but as such I
cannot advise its culture, as with me it does not
fruit so freely as when grown on a dwarf stock
as a bush. My experience may not be similar to
that of others, but as a standard it will take
some years before it bears, and in this way it much
resembles the Blenheim. This latter is slow in

ing the foliage thin seems a new departure in the
culture of this Grape, but one to be remembered
and practised if success is to crown our efforts. —
A. L. , Beaulieu.

Apple Mannington's Pearmain. — I quite
agree with the remarks of "H. C. P." on this Apple
(p. Ill) as to this being one of the finest late
dessert Apples in cultivation, and one that should
be extensively planted where quality and colour
are valued. Lady Sudeley, so highly spoken of
by " E. M.," is another excellent early dessert
Apple, and is one of the best flavoured Apples
grown in its season.— A. L., Beaulieu.

Apple Peasgood's Nonsuch. From a photograph sent by Jlfr. F. M. Ramell, High Street, Sitti

does well on the French Doucin and Paradise
when required to fruit in a small state. The
fruits are of greenish-yellow colour, flushed
and streaked with red, soft and of excellent
quality. It is not a keeping variety, being at its
best in October and November, in colour much
resembling the well-known Cellini. This variety
was recently exhibited by Mr. Payne from the
Palace GaTdens, Wells, Somerset, he staging the
six largest fruits I have seen. They were
grown on a south-east wall and gathered from a
tree which had only been planted seven years,
the fruits being thinned to sixty-two, and those
exhibited weighed 2 lbs. each, none being under
1 lb. Some fruit growers may ask if these
large fruits are worth special culture, to which
I must say, yes. Fine fruits of any kind are
always admired, and, as most growers well know,

coming into bearing as a standard till it attains
a fair size and age. The fruit lj3ing so fine, when
required for special purposes this Apple is worthy
of a west wall, as in such a position when the
fruit is thinned it is superb. It should be in
all collections where good fruits are required.

G. Wythes.

Grape Mrs. Pince.— I was very pleased to
see Mr. Young's able remarks on p. Ill in re-
sponse to " Wiltshire Gardener" on his treatment
of this grand Grape, which I have no doubt will
be read with interest by many of your readers. I
quite agree with him that the most fertile cause
of failure is overcropping, as with me it is very
free in showing fruit and also sets well ; conse-
quently requires a firm hand to reduce the num-
ber of bunches. Mr. Young's treatment of keep-

FLAYOUR IN FORCED STRAWBERRIES.
Man? complain that forced Strawberries are
flavourless, insipid, and not at all profitable
when their cost of production is considered. I
do not intend to go into the question of cost, as
it would take up too much space. Many things
produced in a garden must not be looked upon as
paying, whilst I know of several growers who
force many thousands of Strawberries, and who
would soon give up the work if carried on at a
loss. Such large growers do not force at this
season, as they get their plants to fruit at the
end of April or for May, the latter month
chisfly. There is a splendid
demand for good fruits at
that time, and they are sent
to market little inferior to
the best fruit from the open
ground. By supplying the
market at the time named the
large grower can get well-
flavoured fruits, as he does
not force hard. Such fruits
always sell well, and are never
a drug in the market at the
time named. Many growers
still place chief reliance upon
the well-known Sir Charles
Napier. The fruit is not equal
in flavour to British Queen,
but I am sure it is superior
to others I could name pro-
vided the plant receives the
right treatment at the ripen-
ing period. In a short note
about flavour I do not intend
to enter into cultural details,
my aim being to point out
that flavour in these fruits is
at times overlooked.

For years I have endea-
voured to gain this good
puality, though at times it
cannot always be secured.
Seasons, want of time, hard
forcing, and other minor
ngboume. details prevent the plants re-

ceiving the necessary attention.
Good flavour cannot be got
in a steaming hothouse with a deficiency of air.
Many good cultivators advise removal of the.
plants to a cooler and drier house, and excellent
advice it is, but most gardeners are handicapped.
Labour is none too plentiful and the fruit must
be gathered from hothouses, flavour not being
considered at the finish. On the other hand,
large growers with nothing else in their houses
get better flavoured fruit if they can lower the
temperatures and thus finish their fruit, so as
to get size and colour with firmness combined.
Of late I have reserved a small lean-to house
holding several hundreds of plants as a finish-
ing house, and am much pleased with the re-
sults. The plants are placed here as soon as
the fruits are partially coloured and will keep
good a long time, when gathered being equal to
the best fruits in the open as regards flavour.

178

THE GARDEN.

[March 16 1895.

The house faces north and the stages are slate
slabs, with a little finely sifted gravel for the
pots to rest upon. The advantage of such a
house is that, no matter what time of day the
fruits are gathered, they retain the luscious
flavour so desirable, as the plants are not
roasted as when finished on hot, drying shelves.
I have noticed that the fruits of Sir C. Napier,
Auguste Nicaise, Noble, and others not specially
remarkable for flavour are all that can be desired,
given cool treatment at the finish.

Many late forced fruits would be much better
flavoured if forced slowly, and of late years I
have discarded shelves for the latest lots — I
mean shelves at the back of houses or make-
shifts, not proper Strawberry houses, as on
such shelves it is almost impossible to get the
desired flavour in the fruits, the plants are sub-
jected to great fluctuations of temperature, and
are rarely moist or in a free-growing condition
an hour after they are watered. To get flavour
with late fruits, grow the plants on a cool coal-
ash bottom, as the roots revel in such treat-
ment, and there is less fear of that terrible
pest red spider, which is one of the greatest
evils growers have to contend with, and one
that greatly affects the flavour of forced Straw-
berries. 1 have lifted the much-abused Noble
when short of plants late in April and planted
it in cold frames. Treated in this way the flavour
of the fruit was greatly improved. Forced
Strawberries when given a little more care at
the finish should not be regarded as being
worthless and bad flavoured. I consider them
invaluable, and a fruit all growers, gardeners
especially, should do their utmost to improve.

Geo. Wythes.

Rose Garden.

IN THE ROSE GARDEN.

What a contrast between this and last year.
Then we had a fine lot of growth that had come
through the winter well, and our Roses were so
precociously forward in breaking, that many of
us had much fear of frost. As time went on
we seemed fairly safe from this enemy to spring
growth. But,, alas, the foe was only waiting,
and showed his teeth in an unmistakable
manner early in June. Last season many were
eager to prune by the end of February, and by
the close of the following month our Roses were
so forward, that we seemed altogether behind
where the knife had not finished its work. We
were favoured with good growth last autumn
again, and until the middle of January it looked
safe. But now our hopes are again shattered.
Not much danger of precocious growth ; in-
deed, many of us will be fortunate to have saved
any serviceable wood upon our strong-growing
and early-blooming Roses. Nor shall we have
much doubt about pruning, for by the time the soil
has got warm once more spring will be with us,
and after the dead wood has been trimmed out
we shall find a very scanty remainder. At first
sight it is somewhat singular that those Roses in
sheltered and south aspects should be much
worse than those upon a northern wall that
were continually frozen for so long a period, and
also subjected to the full effects of the keen
north-east winds. I do not think this would
have been so noticeable had the weather not
been so bright. It is quite certain that the sun
thawed the wood in these spots for an hour or
two during mid-day, and that within a very
short period they were again severely frozen.
Looking back, I call to mind more than one
instance where the weather was severe for a
brief period only, sometimes for one night

alone, and in these cases there seemed equal
damage done whatever position the Roses occu-
pied. In another case a plant of Marie van
Houtte was incased in ice for weeks, and yet
came out of the ordeal safely. A steady thaw
set in and there was no repetition of the frost.
In shaded spots the Roses appear fairly safe
again this year, but those in the sun are a sad
wreck. Does not this point to the conclusion
that even a prolonged frost of severity is far
less harmful than successive frost and thaw 1
With the soil, and consequently roots, frozen
to so great a depth, while the tops of the Roses
were being dried up both by frost and sun, and
experiencing two such opposing elements in
rapid succession, I am not greatly surprised
that the Roses apparently better situated are
evidently coming out of the ordeal in the least
satisfactory manner.

As a stock the Brier in all forms has proved
much hardier than the Manetti, and buds
worked upon the former last summer are com-
paratively uninjured in the case of dwarfs.
Much of this is doubtless owing to the partial
covering of snow, although I regret to say we
had next to none. On raised stems the Rose-
buds look very bad and there will be many
blanks again, but from a different cause to that
of 1893-5)4. Then it was the Briers themselves
which failed, now it is the Rose. Once more
we see that Teas are quite as hardy as the Bour-
bons and Hybrid Ferpetuals, if we do not
perversely choose extreme examples from each
class.

At first glance beds of maidens look quite
cut up, and, being generally grown upon open
quarters, they have certainly had a most trying
time. On the whole, however, young plants
have stood the weather better than older ones.
The two Roses least affected are the forms of
Rugosas and Hybrid Sweet Briers, while Messrs.
W. Paul and Son's Moss Zenobia seems almost
untouched. Would that I could write the same
of others. Ridgewood.

VITALITY OF YOUNG AND OLD PLANTS.
Although too early for one to know the extt-ijt of
damage caused by this remarkable frost, I can
see that the plants which will pull through best are
those that are one year from the maiden bud and
some grafted plants of last season. We look for
more vitality in young plants after they have
grown somewhat away from the very tenderest
stages, and the fully exposed wood of almost the
whole of my young ones still has a healthy look,
and is without the dry and nut-brown pith too
prevalent in those of older standing. When short
of a stock of Teas or Noisettes I have many
times worked them up by grafting early in the
year and then planting outside in June or July.
Such plants grow away freely, and are equal,
often superior, to any maidens from the bud,
while a year is saved. It is a batch of these that
are the most promising of our plants at present,
the wood seeming almost unaffected. Old plants
— the same bed that stood the test of 1S80-81
and subsequent hard winters looks as if it
must succumb now. Older Hybrid Perpetuals,
too, are looking bad, while a few worked similar
to the Teas are comparatively untouched, not-
withstanding they are the more delicate varieties
such as Horace Vernet and new Roses whose num-
bers were short.

It is the same when cultivating in pots. We
find a young plant from two to four years far
more profitable to grow than after the wood has
become old and sere. True, we can keep them
young in a manner by removing this old wood
as far as possible and retaining young growth.
But to my mind the vitality and vigour of such
plants cannot be compared to those of two to four
years. The base is old and so are the roots. A
few old plants of some variety much needed for

stock — Comtesse de Nadaillac, Souvenir d'Elise
Vardon, and others — have been knocked out of
pots and the whole of the soil washed away ; then
the roots trimmed and thinned out where coarse,
and repotted into small pots of turfy and sandy
soil so as to encourage new roots at once, pot-
ting on again into a richer compost. Healthy
growth has generally followed such treatment.
Other plants that seemed to have done their part
as pot Roses have recovered when so treated, and
planted out into a border as soon at the weather
was warm enough to avoid severe checks. I have
frequently noticed that wood grown under glass
is more quickly affected than that which has been
experiencing the many little checks and chills our
outdoor Roses are subjected to at all times of the
year. R.

Rose Mme. Georges Bruant. — I am sorry
the behaviour of the above hybrid Japanese Brier
here does not justify me in confirming the high
opinion expressed on its merits by " R." (page 83),
but I must own that it has failed lamentably to
come up to our expectations. The rugosa va-
rieties are extensively grown here in large solid
masses in prominent positions, which they worthily
occupy, clothed as they are with ample healthy
foliage of good colour, sheets of bloom and heavy
crops ;Of large attractive heps, which together
make a nice show from early summer to late
autumn. On the strength of its parentage and
the high encomiums passed on it through the Press
and other channels, a number of Mme. Georges
Bruant were quickly procured and planted along-
side some of the rugosas, thus enlarging one of
the clumps. From the outset they made strong
satisfactory growth and bloomed freely; but,
alas, each season they became so overrun with
mildew as to become quite an eyesore, and even
marred the appearance of the adjoining rugosas,
so that after two seasons they have been removed
and planted in a less conspicuous position in a
wilder part of the grounds. This liability to
mildew is unfortunate, for this variety is such a
perpetual bloomer and the elongated buds are
pretty and useful — a decided acquisition in this
respect ; but with this class and when grown in
large masses one does not take kindly to be
eternally applying insecticides, &c. , in face of the
fact that the superior rugosas take care of them-
selves, requiring neither lotions nor cosmetics. —
J. R., Merioneth.

Worthless new plants. — In a recent issue of
the new plant catalogue of a leading Continental
nurseryman of the very highest character noted
for the number of really good new plants, es-
peciallj" in the shrub line, which he has been the
means of introducing into European gardens
appeared the name of Coriaria japonica, about
which (having raised it from seeds sent him from
Japan without description) the nurseryman con-
fessed he knew absolutely nothing, having been
unable to find any notice or description of it in
any botanical work to which he had access. All
he could say about it was that the family was
known in European gardens through Coriaria
myrtifolia, and that its foliage resembled that of
Hypericum Moserianum. On referring to that
great and most authentic work of reference, ' ' Index
Kewensis," I found that this Coriaria was fully de-
scribed by the late distinguished American bota-
nist, Dr. Asa Gray in the "Memoirs of the Ameri-
can Academy," new series, vol. vi., for 1858-9, on
p. 383. Not having these Memoirs myself, I
sent the reference to a friend in the herbarium at
Kew, asking him to be so kind as to let me know
how C. japonica stood as to beauty and value as
an ornamental plant in comparison with C. sar-
mentosa, figured on plate 2470 of the 51st volume
of the Botanical Magazine, which appeared to be
a herb with spikes of small and utterly incon-
spicuous greenish flowers of no value at all from
a horticultural point of view, but said to be an
extremely rare and botanically interesting plant
from New Zealand. The answer received from Kew
was that Coriaria japonica was considerably less

March 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

179

beautiful than the member of the family figured
in the Botanical Magazine, and that I should not
care for it at all. I think that it is much to be
regretted from every point of view that new and
unknown plants should be sent out by nurserymen
before they have either proved them themselves
and found them to be worth growing, or at all
events received some reliabli description of them
from those who knew them in their native coun-
try and sent them the seed. The receipt of such
plants when they turn out to be worthless must
result in disappointment to the purchaser and
discredit to the nurseryman. — Boscobel.

Stove and Greenhouse.

LILY OF THE VALLEY IN A TUB.
The Lily of the Valley crowns have been in the
tub for about four years, but this is the first
time there has been such a splendid show of
blossom, fully one-half the crowns flowering.
From the time they were placed in the tub they
have not been disturbed and left out in the
open. Just before winter sets in about 2 inches
of thoroughly decomposed manure are put all

potted w ith the Cattleyas ; the only difference
there is consists in the pots not having so much
drainage material put in. The plant likes good
drainage, but not more than 2 inches deep in
pots S| inches or 9 inches in diameter. This is
the largest size I have yet used for this plant. I
find also that it succeeds best in the part of the
house least exposed to the sun ; the leaves become
withered at the tips in a sunny position, and when
this happens but little good results from it. I
have just turned the plant out of its pot, and on
examining the rhizome I find one feeble growth
starting from its base ; this with part of the rhizome
and roots has been removed ana planted by itself.
The plant has been cut over and the part of the
rhizome left has been potted also. The whole will
be put into a handglass in the Cattleya house
until growth commences. — J. Douglas.

The forcing Pinks. — These are amongst the
most esteemed of garden flowers for their sweet-
ness and the delicate beauty of the petals com-
bined with the pretty effect of their elegant
leaves and growths. I have frequently in the
pages of The Garden written about the best way
to obtain good specimens for forcing, and those
who have followed my advice should now have a
fine lot of plants. Pinks, Roses, and white Lilies
are our favourite flowers for forcing, and they re-
quire very much the same treatment. They are

Lily of the Valley in a tub. Eit.iroveJ ./'•<<• The Garden from a photograph
by Mr. F. H. D. Kemplen, Walberton Cottage, Xhvnedin, N.Z.

over the soil, and this seems to have the effect
of stimulating an early and vigorous growth.
When the shoots are well up, tepid water is given
every day, to which is added manure water
twice a week when the spikes of blossom are
well on. I have tried forcing this beautiful
spring flower, but without success, and the
attempts of our local nurserymen have also
failed. Fred. H. D. Kemplen.

Dunedin.

Ataccia cristata.-This curious plant is
seldom seen in collections, but the weird appear-
ance of the plant when in flower attracts every-
body, especially those who admire anything quaint
in structure. I obtained a plant some eight or
ten years ago after reading a note in The Gar-
den about it, and especially about the facility
with which it might be propagated by detaching
the gemm;c from the rhizomes. I did not find that
it could be multiplied so very readily, but the
plants will throw out a growth or two from near
the base of the rhizome ; if these are removed
with a portion of the rhizome and roots attached
they will in time grow into flowering plants.
The plant I have flowers every year, but not
uiite so strongly as I would like. The soil I
use for potting is composed of good fibrous peat
and sand with a little Sphagnum Aloss. It is usually

all liable to be attacked by the aphis tribe, which
can be most readily destroyed by fumigation with
a pufl'of flowers of sulphur on the first appearance
of mildew on the Rose leaves. This is enough to
keep them healthy and in good condition. I find
the Pinks are impatient of too early forcing ; they
do not make good growths about the shortest
days in the year. At that time the temperature
should not be above 50° as a minimum, or even
less in very severe weather. Now, 55° to 60° is
the best temperature. The plants make good
growths near the roof-glass of the forcing house,
and a little weak liquid manure is useful to give
a richer colour to the leaves and a more intense
colour to the flowers, that is the coloured varie-
ties, for it is well known to gardeners that forcing,
especially in dull weather, has a tendency to
produce a rather faded appearance in the flowers.
This is one reason why I always insist upon plants
that are being forced having as much air admitted
as possible under the circumstances, and being
placed where they can get a greater suffusion of
light. — J. Douglas.

Anoiganthus breviflorue. — This is one of
the numerous Amaryllids that are found in South
Africa, and, like most subjects from that region,
it is essentially a greenhouse plant, in which
structure, with a reasonable amount of attention,
it can be depended upon to flower well. Bloom-
ing as it does in the first two months of the year it

is especially valuable, and though less showy than
some other bulbous plants, yet it is very beauti-
ful, as may be seen by referring to a coloured
plate issued with The Garden, July IS, 1891. It
produces a solid, brownish bulb, ovoid in shape,
from which are pushed up the leaves. They are
rather stiff, nearly erect, about a foot long, and' an
inch in width. The flower-scape reaches a height
of a foot or so, and is terminated by a loose umbel
of blossoms. The individual flowers are nearly a
couple of inches long, but so constricted at the
base, that at the most they are not more than half
expanded. It succeeds well in a mixture of two-
thirds good yellow luam, with one-third leaf-
mould, and a liberal amount of silver sand. When
growing, water must be given pretty freely, but
when at rest the soil should be kept dry, in order
that the bulbs may be thoroughly ripened. In
potting, the top of the bulbs should be just below
the surface of the soil and the pots must be
thoroughly drained, as, like many other bulbous
plants, they will when in good condition stand
for years without repotting. That this beautiful
bulbous plant is not more often seen cannot be
owing to its price, which in one of the Dutch lists
lying before me is very moderate. — H. P.

NOTES ON LILY CULTURE.

Tin* is not the time to plant Lilies either for out
of doors or for culture in pots, except, perhaps,
late importations of L. auratum, but it is certain
that it would have been better to have potted
them up two months ago. Perhaps the best time
to repot or replant Lilies is in September, at least
for the varieties that flower early and ripen their
stalks early, for in the case of Lilies as soon as the
stems die down the bulbs may be transplanted or
taken out of the ground to bo repotted. Lily
bulbs should never be allowed to dry, like the
bulbs of Hyacinths, Tulips, and other things
with hard solid bulbs. Where the bulbs have
been potted and plunged deep in cocoa fibre re-
fuse, it would be better to let them remain there
while severe frosts last, but some straw or long
stable manure should be thrown over them to
keep intense frosts from penetrating too deeply.
At one time I used to plunge them out of doors,
but tome varieties and some species would suffer
from too much wet ; for instance, L. auratum
would do so, while L. lancifolium and its varieties
would not. The beautiful L. tigrinum splendens
would also stand well out of doors. This beauti-
ful Lily should be grown in every garden, and as
a pot plant arranged in the greenhouse or con-
servatory few of the dainty exotics would equal
it. The bulbs formed on the stems are all useful
to produce plants ; they should be taken off and
potted when the others are done. My object in
writing about Lilies at this time was not to give
general details about their culture, but to warn
growers of the fact that they must be attended to
very carefully in the spring. Our plants have been
plunged in frames, and are now pushing through
the ground. These young growths are very
susceptible to injury unless they are well
managed. I take them up out of the plunging
material and place them in a frame with the pots
plunged to the rim, but with the growths quite
free ; in this position we seldom experience any
frosts after the middle of February that are likely
to injure them, and it is easy to throw a few
mats over the glass if the cold is likely to be
intense. The plants soon make strong, sturdy
growth in these frames, and in fine weather the
lights are drawn off, being replaced at night when
there i» danger from frosts. In May the plants
may be quite in the open air, but they do best in
a sheltered position, a3 high winds damage the
leaves a good deal. Another way of treating
Lilies grown in pots is to take them into the
greenhouse and place them amongst other plants,
but this is the way to get poor results. It is
necessary to shade for the flowering plants, and
the stems are drawn up weakly, the leaves poor,
the flowers small in size, and petals thin. Green-
house culture of all hardy plants is a mistake if
they are intended to be flowered in the green-

180

THE GARDEN.

[Maech 16, 1895.

house ; they should be grown in frames or out of
doors, and be taken into the greenhouse for
flowering. If they are to be forced, they must be
placed in a light forcing house near the glass roof.
I force the Lilium longiflorum, the Bermuda type,
and they are now fine sturdy plants showing
bloom. They will be taken into the greenhouse
as the flowers open, and with good management
they will flower again in the autumn. I always
get a spring and autumn bloom from the same
bulbs of this fine Lily. J. Douglas.

THYRSACANTHUS RUTILANS.

A well-flowered plant of this member of the
acanthaceous family was recently shown from Sir
Trevor Lawrence's collection at Burford Lodge,
Dorking. The plant itself was not a large one by
any means, being to all appearance only a cutting
of last year, in height not more than 18 inches,
but it was flowering most profusely, its slender
drooping racemes being clothed with blossoms,
these racemes reaching below the pot. Its colour
is an acquisition during the dull season of the year
amongst stove plants, the example shown bearing
evidence of its utility in a manner some might
not think of, viz., as a plant for the dinner table.
As decorative subjects, even when kept exclusively
in the stove, when in flower plants of this Thyrsa-
canthus are a great boon. Many who have grown
it have not developed its beauties to the greatest
possible extent, this arising no doubt from a lack
of knowledge as to its adaptability. Too often
the plants are struck yearly, whereas it is best to
grow on the plants and form them into standards
of 3 feet or so in height. I have grown them my-
self to a height of 5 feet as standards ; this height
afforded the opportunity of inclining the heads
forwards and partially over the pathway when in
bloom, whereby a beautiful effect was produced.
The quantity of flowers and the number of racemes
on these taller and older plants are greatly in
excess of what can be possibly had on the younger
ones— all things being equal, i.e., the cultivation
in each case what it should be. Standards of this
description will last for several years; thus pro-
pagation only need be done to keep up the desired
quantity. When out of flower these older plants
will do with a rest, being partially dried off and
stood in an intermediate house. Growth should
be started again from this cooler house when with
the spring warmer weather sets in. In no case is
it necessary to keep the plants in the stove to
make their growth, even in the culture of young
plants when once well established. During the
summer a light, airy house will suit them well, the
chief point to observe being the building up and
solidifying of an enduring growth. In quite
favoured localities I have grown Thyrsacanthus
rutilans out-of-doors from June to September, thus
saving room inside, the results being all that one
could wish. The ordinary soil for stove plants
(peat and loam) will suit it well. T. Schom-
burgkianus has darker flowers than T. rutilans
and is often confused with it. Jas, Hudson.

tution of any plant unless it is kept down.
Cantua dependens is easy of culture, and withal a
most charming plant when in flower. Under
ordinary greenhouse treatment it will bloom in
April and May, and when a well-flowered speci-
men is produced laden with its fine tubular
flowers about 4 inches in length, of a bright rosy
red colour with an orange throat, hanging in
clusters, one does not begrudge the small amount
of labour to obtain such good results. The plants
grow freely in good yellow loam, with some leaf-
mould, decayed manure, and a little coarse white
sand, not much, as I find the plant does not flower
so freely if the compost is too open. The plants
I had charge of flowered grandly in 10-inch and
11-inch flower-pots, but ayoung plant in a 4 inch
or 5-inch pot must be potted into a 7-inch or
8-inch pot, and be allowed to fill that well with
roots first, to be carefully repotted into the larger
size before it gets what gardeners term pot-bound.
Young plants can be propagated freely from cut-
tings of the nearly ripe wood inserted in sandy
soil and covered with a bell-glass. The plants
should be allowed to make their growth in a
light, airy position. I believe hard-wooded plants
are going out of cultivation, because they are
spoiled by being grown in a shaded greenhouse
and smothered with rapid-growing soft-wooded
plants, at the same time being over-shaded owing
to the necessity of taking care of the plants in
bloom. When the flowering period is over the
plants rest, and but little water is given them.
Cut the young wood well back and let the plants
start again about June. As soon as they have
made a start turn them out of the pots, reduce
the old balls, and repot the plants that were in
10-inch pots into 8^-inch pots. They will soon
fill these with roots, and may be repotted again
into 11 -inch pots. When the plants have made a
good start into that size place them in a sunny
position out of doors, and they will soon ripen up
their season's growth to produce flowering shoots
for next year. J. Douglas.

wiry nature and clothed with triangular-shaped
leaves, divided as in some of the Thalictrum
(hence the specific name), and about 6 inches to
8 inches long. In some positions the young
leaves acquire a slight bronzy tint, and are then
additionally attractive. There is a variety
(argentea) in which the leaves are suffused wilh a
silvery grey, and very pretty it is. This Paul-
linia is not a difficult subject to cultivate, yet at
the same time it needs a certain amount of care
and attention. The roots are fine and delicate,
and it succeeds best in a soil composed of two
parts peat to one of loam and a very liberal
sprinkling of silver sand. It is essentially a stove
plant, needing as it does a brisk heat at all sea-
sons. The flowers are said to be small, pale pink,
and borne in little clusters. — H. P.

CANTUA DEPENDENS.

Those of us who can look back over a long gar-
dening career sometimes regret that popular
plants grown and greatly admired thirty or forty
years ago are now seldom seen. One of the first
plants I became acquainted with was this, and it
was grown and flowered admirably in a small
greenhouse. I well remember how proud I was
when I was given charge of the small house which
contained this and other plants as part of my
duty. The plant had been recently introduced
by the Messrs. Veitch, of Exeter, and it was
grown in most of the leading gardens in the
country, but not with uniform success. Many
gardeners then, as now, did not consider that most
plants require a season of rest and a time of
growth, both being required to produce flowering
growth. Another point is the importance of
keeping the plants free from the attacks of red
spider, a troublesome pest which saps the consti-

Bottom-heat for Eueharis. — Many while
advocating bottom-heat for Eueharis when making
growth are opposed to a continuation of it.
When the bulk of the season's leaves has been
made they lift the pots from the plunging bed,
keep the plants much drier at the roots, and thus,
as they think, prepare them for throwing up bloom
when again returned to the bed. I do not like
this system, having seen many plants succumb
under it. One of the most successful growers of
Eueharis constantly keeps his plants plunged in
warm leaves. The beds are renewed in spring,
the extra bottom-heat causing large numbers of
flowers to appear. Growth starts simultaneously,
and by the time this is completed the leaves have
lost a deal of their former warmth, a condition
suitable to the plants while at rest. Of course,
while the roots are comparatively inactive much
less water is required, but to withhold it entirely
for a given time, as some do, is in my opinion
very bad practice. I have a few plants in large
pots standing on boards over hot-water pipes in a
Pine stove. Here they have been for years,
summer and winter. They grow freely and
flower satisfactorily, thereby proving that a con-
tinual bottom-heat suits them. — J. C.

Paulliaia thalictrifolia. — Introduced from
Rio de Janeiro some twenty-four years ago, this
beautiful climbing plant was for a time much
grown (fine-foliaged subjects being then all the
rage), but now-a-days, though a stock plant in
some of the best nurseries, its merits do.not seem
to be recognised. To the lover of flowers alone
there is nothing to commend it, as the beauty of
this Paullinia depends upon its prettily divided
Fern-like foliage. As a climber it may be grown
in various ways, first as a rafter plant in the stove,
or around a few sticks it may be so trained as to
form a somewhat pyramidal-shaped specimen. I
have seen it,, too, on a fan-shaped trellis, which
presented quite a mass of its elegantly divided
foliage. In a suspended basket it is also very
pretty. The shoots of this Paullinia are of a thin

MYRSIPHYLLUM ASPARAGOIDES.
The specimen sent by W. J. Luff is Myrsiphyllum
asparagoides, a native of South Africa. It has
been known in this country for nearly 200 years,
but it was only to be found in few gardens till
twenty years ago or less, when the long, slender
sprays became very popular for table decoration,
and it was then taken in hand by some of our
growers for Covent Garden Market. The idea of
employing the plant in this manner was, how-
ever, first brought here from America, where it
was already largely grown under the name of
Smilax, which is by some applied to it in this
country, but it is really quite distinct from the
genus Smilax, being in fact a near ally of the
Asparagus, and, indeed, it is by some botanists
included in that genus. The treatment required
is simple. Being a native of the Cape of Good
Hope, the protection of a greenhouse is, of course,
necessary to its well-doing, and where grown in
quantity, a warmth above that of a greenhouse is
frequently maintained. It forms a mass of small
tuber-like roots, from whence the slender shoots
are pushed up. They are at first so delicate that
a small slug will soon make havoc among a con-
siderable number. When required to be used in
a cut state each shoot should be trained separately
to a piece of thin twine, as when wanted the entire
shoot can be taken without any trouble ; whereas
if allowed to become entangled with each other it
is a difficult matter to separate them. This
Myrsiphyllum, too, makes a very pretty climbing
plant for a rafter in the greenhouse, and in this
way its bright green foliage is very attractive,
added to which the small greenish white blossoms
which are borne at this season of the year impart
an additional feature. These flowers are sup-
ported on rather long, slender stalks, and a very
elegant appearance they present when in quan-
tity. They also emit a very pleasing perfume.
The plant may be grown either in pots or planted
out in a bed of soil prepared for its reception. A
very suitable compost is two-thirds of loam to one
of leaf-mould and a liberal amount of silver sand.
In whatever position it is grown, thorough drain-
age is essential to its well-doing, as when growing
freely it needs a liberal amount of water, but is at
the same time very impatient of stagnant moisture.
If trained around a few sticks, neat little speci-
mens may be had in pots 5 inches or 6 inches in
diameter, but it is when growing freely as a
climber, and the shoots allowed to dispose them-
selves in a natural manner, that this Myrsiphyl-
lum is seen at its best. It is very useful, too, for
draping the front of a stage in the greenhouse,
thus helping to take off the hard, formal appear-
ance. Propagation is effected by division, which
is readily carried out early in the year before
growth recommences, while in the case of esta-
blished plants seeds are often produced, and
plants obtained in this way are by man}- preferred
to divided specimens. Seeds of it can as a rule
be obtained from most dealers of repute. They
should be sown as soon as possible alter receipt,
using rather lighter compost than that recom-
mended for established plants. The pots or pans
should be well drained and filled to within an inch
of the top with soil, then the seed may be sown

March 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

181

thereon and covered with about a quarter of an
inch of the same soil sifted rather fine. A tem-
perature somewhat above that of an ordinary
greenhouse is best for them, and with the usual
attention in the matter of watering the seedlings
will soon grow, and when large enough must be
potted singly into small pots. H. P.

SWEET-SCENTED RHODODENDRONS.

That class of Rhododendrons which has become
so popular of late years, viz., the Javan or tube-
flowered section, is not remarkable for fragrance,
yet the blossoms of many kinds that require
greenhouse treatment are deliciously scented.
This group consists of a great many hybrid va-
rieties, obtained by intercrossing various species
that are natives of the Himalayas. One of these
in particular (R. Edgeworthi) has very fragrant
blossoms, and being largely employed by the hy-
bridist has transmitted that desirable feature
to its progeny.

R. Edgeworthi is very distinct from any of the
others, and when out of bloom it is particularly
noticeable by reason of the dense woolly tomen-
tum with which the undersides of the leaves and
young shoots are covered ; while the flowers are
large, widely expanding and pure white, with the
exception of a blotch of yellow towards the base
of the upper segments. This Rhododendron is
rather straggling in habit, and some of the hybrid
forms are more desirable for decoration. One of
the earliest hybrids from R. Edgeworthi was
Princess Alice, which was obtained by the inter-
crossing of this species and the little blush-
coloured R. ciliatum. Messrs. Veitch obtained a
certificate for this from the Royal Horticultural
Society as long ago as the spring of 1S62, and it
is still a very desirable form. The compact,
freely-branched habit of R. ciliatum has served to
modify the looser growth of its other parent. The
flowers are in shape and size about midway
between these two species, and before expansion
they are slightly tinged on the exterior with pink.
The blossoms of Princess Alice are very sweetly
scented. R. Edgeworthi has, in conjunction with
R. formosum, yielded some very desirable forms.
One, R. fragrantissimum, was raised, I believe,
by Messrs. Rollisson about twenty-five years ago ;
while the other, R. Sesterianum, is older still.
Both have very large blossoms, deliciously
scented, but the habit of the plant is somewhat
straggling. To succeed with them it is necessary
that the plants be pinched back freely during
their early stages.

R. Forsterianum has a remarkably widely ex-
panded flower, white, with the exception of the
yellowish blotch. The parents of this are R.
Edgeworthi and the Moulmein R. Veitchianum.
An extremely useful group of this section of Rho-
dodendrons was raised by Mr. Davis, of Ormskirk,
between R. Edgeworthi and R. multiflorum
(itself a hybrid). These varieties, to which the
names of Countess of Derby, Duchess of Suther-
land, Countess of Sefton, Lady Skelmersdale, and
Mrs. James Shawe, have been given, are charac-
terised by a much dwarfer habit of growth and a
far greater yield of blossoms when small than any
of those previously mentioned. The flowers of
these are all white, slightly tinged in most cases
on the exterior, but they are all certainly distinct
from each other either , in the shape of the blos-
soms, the habit of the plant, or the edges of the
petals, for in some they are nearly smooth and in
others prettily crisped. I have been very suc-
cessful with the members of this group even in
pots 5 inches and 6 inches in diameter by plung-
ing them outside during the summer in a bed of
cocoa-nut refuse. Under this treatment almost
every shoot produces a flower-bud, and so fra-
grant are they all, that a bloom or two will be
detected throughout a good-sized structure, while
in quantity they have none of the heavy and (to
some) disagreeable smell that results from a large
quantity of flowers in a confined space.

A very neat-growing, freely-branched variety
is R. exoniense, raised some years ago by Messrs.
Veitch, of Exeter. This is between R. ciliatum

and R. Veitchianum, the influence of the latter
parent being particularly noticeable in the glau-
cous under sides of the leaves. The flowers are
of a beautiful waxy white, and borne in great
profusion. Though very sweet, the perfume of
this is scarcely so pronounced as in the preceding
varieties. Another hybrid form remarkable for
its fragrant blossoms is Lady Alice Fitzwilliam.
Although the flowers of all these sweet-scented
hybrids are white or nearly so, there is still
a considerable diversity among them, while the
habit of the plant varies greatly. While some
can, as above mentioned, be grown into neat
little flowering bushes in pots only 5 inches or
6 inches in diameter, there are, on the other
hand, some that require to attain a good size
before they are very effective, such as R. fra-
grantissimum, that needs a good deal of atten-
tion to get in bush form, but I have seen it with
advantage employed as a wall plant in a green-
house. It was planted out in a prepared border,
and the position was well exposed to the light,
so that it used to flower well. In such a position
more particularly the syringe should be freely
used among these Rhododendrons, whose greatest
enemies are black thrips, but with ordinary care
these give little or no trouble unless the atmo-
sphere be too hot and dry. H. P.

WINTER-FLOWERING CARNATIONS.
I am told that some of our large growers of these
no longer propagate them from cuttings, but
layer them in the usual manner. It would be in-
teresting to know whether this latter method
yields results equally good as the one hitherto
generally practised. When I first made acquaint-
ance with this class of Carnation it was not cus-
tomary to increase them in warmth in the spring ;
indeed, annual propagation was not then con-
sidered at all desirable. The plants were kept for
several years, and one frequently saw in trade es-
tablishments gaunt specimens of such as the Duke
of Wellington, which had been cut from for half-a-
dozen years. Such plants ran up to a height of
several feet, were very woody, and thus merited
the name of Tree Carnation. It requires a con-
siderable amount of skill and much attention to
obtain good flowering plants from cuttings rooted
in early spring. The Carnation is impatient of
artificial warmth, and some little time must be
lost early in the season before plants raised in heat
regain their natural hardiness. Layered plants
cannot suffer in this way, and if the layering is
done early they will be well established in small
pots about the time when it is necessary to
insert cuttings. They can go into the open at
an early date, and there is no danger of their
getting a check from the inclement weather
that we are apt to experience in early summer.
I do not wonder that growers for profit should
be inclined to adopt this plan, for it certainly
saves a lot of trouble and expense. If planting
out for the summer is practised there is a distinct
gain in point of time, for layers can go into the
open ground with perfect safety quite six weeks
earlier than plants raised in warmth, and these
must be carefully hardened off. It is asserted
that some kinds, such as Miss Joliffe, are wearing
out. If such be the case, may not the constant
propagation in warmth be in some measure the
cause of this deterioration ? An acquaintance
who has grown this Carnation for market for some
years tells me that for some reason or other
he cannot fathom it does not now thrive as was
formerly the case. The man is a good grower,
and his treatment is the same at the present time
as was the case when he had no difficulty in obtain-
ing profitable results. There is no disease, but
just a lack of sufficient vital energy to enable the
plants to produce a profitable crop of bloom. I
advised him to change his stock, and, if possible,
get plants that had never been in artificial warmth,
and from a locality far removed from his own.
Here and there one meets with fine healthy stocks
of this Carnation, and one would think that if it
was wearing out the decline in vigour would be
universal. I think that in the case of winter-

blooming Carnations generally it would be wiser
to rely more on two-year old plants. I have
found, and especially with the Souvenir va-
rieties, that I could always get more bloom from
the space from them than from young ones.
They do not run so much to leaf, but throw up a
greater number of flower-stems, whicti, if the
plants are in good condition, are very strong,
and carry blooms of very fine quality. It is an
easy matter to get really fine flowers in this way
from December till May. Overpotting winter-
flowering Carnations is a prolific source of failure.
Just as good blooms can be got from 4|-inch
pots as from larger ones. Carnations are not
nearly so free-rooting as the generality of green-
house flowers, and the roots are very sensitive to
an overdose of water. By the end of September
the pots should be full of roots if flower expansion
is to go on through the winter months. If plants
that are done blooming are put into the open air
towards the end of May and shifted in July into
pots one size larger, they will be quite root-bound
by late autumn. Such plants, if well cared for
through the summer, will produce a quantity of
bloom just when most needed. Some varieties
when thus treated will throw up some flower-
stems towards the close of the summer, and these
will give good blooms in November. Naturally
these two-year-old specimens are not so attractive
in appearance as young ones, but the Carnation in
winter is more valued for supplying cut blooms
than for creating an effect. Provided one can
get plenty of nice flowers for button-holes and
bouquet - making, it matters little what the
plants are like that furnish them. The compost
for winter-blooming Carnations should be of a
nature that will not readily come into a close,
sour condition. I like it to be sandy and with a
fair proportion of well-decomposed leaf-soil, vary-
ing the amount of this according to the nature of
the loam. J. C. B.

Saintpaulia ionantha. — Allow me to correct
a slight error on page 133 of The Garden about
Saintpaulia ionantha. This lovely plant, which
has been discovered and introduced into Europe
by my son, never has flowers of 3 inches diameter,
the coloured plate showing the flowers about their
natural size. It grows best in a rich open com-
post in shady warm quarters and likes much mois-
ture at the roots. The young offsets which the
plant makes plentifully at the collar give the best
plants if potted separately in proper time. —
Baron* von* Saint- Pail, Fischbach, Silesia.

Acacias at Syon House.— Few private gar-
dens have such command of space to grow these
plants as here. In the cool portion of the con-
servatory are huge bushes of such kinds as are not
commonly grown. Many of the plants are allowed
to run up to the roof and hang down with as few
supports as possible. They also fill up odd corners
and present a fine aspect. Many of the plants are
grown in pots, and all that can be removed are
placed outside in the summer. Those most beau-
tiful just now are the following : A. verticillata is
from 10 feet to 20 feet high, making a splendid
bush, the flowers being deep yellow. A. platyptera
is of different habit. A. longifolia, an Australian
species, is very pretty and grows erect. A. Drum-
mondi is a large pale lemon-coloured form from the
Swan River and just opening its flowers. A. deal-
bata, the Silver Wattle, is very beautiful and of
large size. This is a well-known species and one
of the best. A. cyanophylla is a less known form
with large yellow flowers ; it grows about 20 feet
high and is very effective, its long glaucous leaves
on drooping branches being very distinct. There
are other kinds, but those named are the most
effective at this season. — Visitor.

Agapetes buxifolia. — This has been well
grown in the temperate house at Kew for years,
and many notes have from time to time appeared
in The Garden calling attention to its beauty
when in flower. Notwithstanding this, it is still
very uncommon, and may in vain be sought for in
most nurseries, though I venture to think that a
fairly good demand for it might reasonably be

182

THE GARDEN.

[March 1G, 1895.

anticipated. This Agapetes is a native of the
mountainous regions of Northern India, and is
there said to reach a height of .r) feet, but being
often found in its native state as an epiphyte, it is
probably somewhat straggling. Under cultiva-
tion, however, it forms a neatly-branched little
bush, clothed with deep green Box-like leaves,
while the flowers, which are borne on the shoots of
the preceding season, are tubular, about 1 \ inches
long, and in colour bright red. It blooms usually
towards the latter part of February or in March
and even April, while in summer the white
berries, which sometimes succeed the flowers, are
very noticeable. Apart from these features, it is
at all seasons a pretty little evergreen shrub. As
might be expected from its native habitat, this
Agapetes needs the protection of a greenhouse ;
indeed, under conditions suitable to the Indian
Azalea^ it will succeed perfectly. Like most
ericaceous plants, and especially those of a some-
what epiphytal nature, it succeeds best in a soil
composed of sandy peat, into which the delicate
hair-like fibres run with great freedom. Good
drainage must be ensured, and at no time should
the plant be allowed to suffer from want of water.
Treated as Azaleas or greenhouse Rhododendrons,
cuttings of this Agapetes root readily. They
should be taken when about half ripe, and being
dibbled firmly into well-drained pots of very sandy
peat must be kept close in the temperature of a
warm greenhouse till rooted. — T.

BOILERS AND PIPES.

The late severe weather has tried the heating
arrangements in every garden, and I have no
doubt that hot-water engineers will soon have
their hands full of work. During the last forty
years I have tried a good many different kinds of
boilers, and I have come to the conclusion that a
good form of saddle if well set cannot be beaten.
The best form in my opinion is the check-end
saddle, and though the cast-iron boilers are the
cheapest, one feels safer with a wrought-iron
boiler ; and when a boiler set in brickwork has to
be taken out, the expense of one breakdown
doubles the cost of the boiler and labour alone.
Permanency, therefore, should be considered.
The action of many a good boiler has been
seriously checked by bad setting, especially as
regards the size of the flues. No flue round and
over the boiler should be less than 7 inches in
diameter, especially if the boiler be of large size,
say capable of heating 1000 feet or more of pipe,
and it is always advisable to have the boiler large
enough to do its work easily. If it has to be
pushed with a full draught, some loss of heat
must ensue. But with a boiler well able to
do its work after the heat has been raised,
the fire may be worked with the damper
nearly in and the bottom doors closed. Another
very important matter is to have a fairly
tall chimney. The taller the chimney or shaft,
the better the fire works. A careful stoker will
get a lot more work out of the fuel than a careless
one, who forgets to keep his flues clean or to shut
dampers and doors at the right moment. In very
large establishments a good fireman will save the
cost of his wages every year in the economical use
of the flue alone, and there are other matters to be
considered besides the mere saving of fuel. The
forcing gardener is in a great measure in the
hands of the fireman, and unless the fires are
well managed it is impossible to obtain the best
results. The presence of red spider and other
insect pests is often due to overheated pipes at a
time when they ought to be only moderately
warm. There are many bright sunny days during
a long spell of frosty weather, and if the fires are
not damped down as soon as the sun appears, the
pipes get too hot for healthy growth. Especially
is this so where from motives of economy the
pipes have been grudgingly used. During hard
firing, with the pipes so hot that it is impossible
to touch them with the naked hand, unless the
work has been well put together, something is
very likely to give way, and this is a very awkward

contretemps during hard weather. I remember
during the severe winter of 1860 and 1861, espe-
cially on that particularly trying Christmas eve, I
sat up all night with the fires and made the water
boil out through the supply cisterns, and yet the
frost got in. This, of course, was due to insuffi-
ciency of pipes. Again, I do not think there is
much economy, especially if the houses are of
large size, in attaching too many houses to
one boiler. Where the houses are small I should
prefer to have them grouped, but on the same
level, and then there may be some economy in
attaching several to one boiler. But where the
houses are 100 feet or more long, requiring say
from 1500 feet to 2000 feet of pipe, I should prefer
to have them in pairs, each pair to be worked by-
one boiler. It is important that the boiler should
be placed as near and well under its work as possible
to ensure rapid circulation. It is often difficult to
get a foundation for a deep stoke-hole in conse-
quence of the water rising near the surface. When
I dug my present stoke-holes, an old resident said,
"Oh, you will never be troubled with water here,"
but in less than two years there came heavy and
continuous rains and the fires were put out. This
involved very heavy expense in securing an outfall
for a drain, but the thing had to be done, and I
am thankful for it now, for it is worth something
to feel safe. I have lost all faith in cement for
stopping out water in stoke-holes. It can be done,
I suppose, at least every builder tells you so, but
every man you employ runs you to endless expense
and generally fails. If it were impossible to get an
outfall for a drain, the best arrangement would be
to place the boiler in an iron tank. I know a
place where a very large sum was spent in trying
to obtain a waterproof stoke-hole, when less than
a fourth would have sufficed to have put in a
strong iron tank that would have been perma-
nent. E. H.

GROWING CROPS FOR PROFIT.

It is all a question of energy and good manage-
ment. Some men can get a living where others
would starve. If " A Constant Reader " is fully
prepared to work hard himself, has had some pre-
vious experience in vegetable culture, and has
enough capital to stock a place and keep it going
for, say, the first four or five months without any
returns, then there is no good reason why he
should not commence. The vale of Taunton is
admirably adapted for the growth of early vege-
tables, and a considerable quantity are grown in
that district for the markets. It is of the greatest
importance that such men as "A Constant
Reader" should start within at least easy carting
distance of both a good market for a portion at
any rate of garden produce that it does not pay
to send to a distance, and where also a good sup-
ply of manure can be carted back. Taunton is a
fairly busy town, or a good centre in an agricul-
tural district, but there are no large manufac-
tories of any kind, and the town seems to be
already well supplied with all the common vege-
tables and fruit it needs. If, therefore, good land
at £3 per acre rent can be got near to Minehead,
that is where I should advise a start being made.
One of the best markets for Celery is Cardiff,
South Wales generally apparently having a great
weakness for both Celery and Cucumbers. In all
probability heavy vegetables, these including early
Potatoes and Celery, could be sent by boat from
Minehead to Cardiff and also Bristol, another
good market, more cheaply than by rail, stable
manure being had at moderately cheap rates
from the owners of barges plying in the same
directions. Small holders cannot afford to employ
much manual labour unless a very superior
system of culture can be carried out. The most
successful, as a rule, are men with enough land
to keep a cow or two as well as a horse,
with pigs and poultry extensively. Much of
the cultivation has to be done with light ploughs
such as can be drawn by two horses, the
extra horse being borrowed or hired as the
case may be. In America the vegetable gardens
of one acre and fields much larger are all so

arranged as to admit of the greater part of th9
work being done by horse-power, and, as a matter
of course, " turning rows "or headlands have to be
left. That very handy American invention, the
Planet Junior cultivator, can be bought in this
country for about £3, and one of these should be
owned by most market growers and nurserymen.
Of this combination, for that is what it amounts
to, it has been rightly said that it ought to
be regarded as indispensable. The machines are
light, have adjustable bars so that they can be
narrowed or widened at pleasure, and have
adjustable and reversible teeth. They can be used
either as a plough, moulder, or surface cleaner and
cultivator. Drills for Potatoes can be formed, and
some portion of the soil can be got out of trench
for Celery with the aid of these light ploughs,
while the former can have the ground among
them loosened, and the moulding afterwards be
done, whilst some part of the moulding up of
Celery can be done likewise by means of this con-
trivance.

Both early Potatoes and early Peas, the latter
grown without stakes, are regarded as profitable
crops, and these would be or could be cleared off
the ground in time for Celery to be planted. If
the Celery has a fairly heavy supply of manure
supplied to it, what will be left of this and the
extra working of the soil should prove an excellent
preparation for Potatoes and Peas, and the same
routine might go on for years, especially if che-
mical manures were also used after the first year
for the latter crop. From what I have seen of
market gardening as practised by men who were
previously private gardeners, not many of them
go to work in the right way. They are too fond
of variety and have to pay the penalty. Most
small towns 'are kept well supplied with green
vegetables by cottagers and small holders who
hawk them from door to door, and the man who
depends upon greengrocers to take all he can
grow very frequently has to give the best portion
of some crops to the pigs. "A Constant Reader "
apparently does not intend to make this mistake,
and he will do well to hold to the resolution to
grow early Potatoes, Celery, and, let me add, early
Peas extensively and almost exclusively till he
can hit upon something more profitable.

W. I.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1005.

HABENARIA CARNEA AND VARIETY.
(with a colouked plate.*)
These are so well depicted in the accompanying
illustration that any further description would
be superfluous, a glance being sufficient to show
how beautiful they are when well cultivated. It
is in the winter treatment that growers are more
apt to go wrong with these Orchids than while
they are growing. The stems have died down,
the plants are probably placed in an out-of-the-
way corner and allowed to get quite dry. A
gradual waste of the energies of the tubers and
roots then sets in, and the plants are either
killed outright or so weakened that they cannot
flower. What they require is a low and rather
moist temperature. The soil about them should
never be allowed to be quite dry or be watered
oftener than is necessary to prevent this. Then
when they break up in spring there will be fine
healthy shoots and robust flowfr-spikes. Com-
ing as they do from Singapore, they delight in
a strong moist heat while growing, and during
this season must be kept moist at the root and
be protected from the direct rays of the sun.
After the flowers are past, they may with ad

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon in Mr.
Sander's nursery at St. Albans. Lithographed and
printed by Guillaume Severeyns.

1AH

R]

March 1 G, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

183

vantage be inured to more sunlight, lessening
the supply of water gradually and lowering the
temperature. As hinted on p. 113, February 16,
Habenarias are deserving of more attention than
they at present receive, being a very interesting
and attractive class of plants, and it is to be
hoped that the publication of this plate may be
the means of extending their culture.

H. R.

Kitchen Garden.

TOMATO GROWING FOR AMATEURS.

Amateurs are very apt to be over-zealous in the
matter of starting Tomato growing. I mean they
commence with either seed or plants earlier in the
year than their conveniences justify them in doing.
In order to be certain of a remunerative crop the
plants must be grown quickly, though not rankly ;
they must have a fair share of room and sunshine,
and must not be subjected to much moisture in
the atmosphere. Very few amateurs are in a
position to devote a well-heated house solely to
Tomato culture. Instead of this they have to do
the best they can with them in houses largely de-
voted to the growth of ordinary greenhouse
plants, of which they contrive to collect far more
than they can properly manage. The first step
towards ultimate success with Tomatoes, if it
rested with me, would be a rather wholesale clear-
ance of miserably over-potted, diseased and insect-
infested Carnations, worn out zonal Pelargoniums,
old or flowerless Primulas, Chrysanthemums that
have some time since ceased flowering, three parts
dead Indian Azaleas, Camellias in no better
plight, and such like. Those plants reserved
would present a more attractive appearance after a
re-arrangement has taken place, and the bedding
plants being relegated to shelves, a space along
the back of the front stages can be kept for
Tomatoes in pots or boxes. Even if all this can
be done it does not follow that February is a good
time to start. It would be if a night temperature
of from 50J to 5">° could be maintained, but March
or early in April is quite soon enough to start
where fire-heat is somewhat sparingly used, while
if fire-heat is only given when frosty nights are
expected, early in May is quite soon enough to
place the plants in their fruiting quarters. Puny,
much-drawnup plants producefruit very sparingly
or not more than one or two where there ought to
be a cluster of six or more fruit, and it is very
certain that plants which change to a sickly
yellow colour owing to want of warmth or sun-
shine will never thoroughly recover.

Amateurs are frequently very undecided as to
whether to raise their own plants or to purchase
as many as they require. If they want several
dozen plants, then I should advise them to raise
their own, but if one or two dozen are all they
have room for, then their best plan will be to
buy them. They are largely advertised in the
horticultural papers principally supported by
amateurs, and I believe can as a rule be depended
upon to come true to name. There are now so
many varieties nowadays all presumably second
to none, that it is a bewildering matter to select
which shall be grown. For a quick early crop
Early Ruby is hard to surpass, and either Al,
Challenger, or Ham Green Favourite would form a
good succession. These latter are very productive
varieties, the fruit being of medium size and good
in form or colour, while if a handsome show
variety is needed, try either Duke of York or
Perfection. Sensation and Hackwood Park are a
little coarse, but they possess good constitutions
and crop heavily. If the packets received con-
tain several score of seeds, do not sow the lot
unless nearly as many plants are required, as
crowded seedlings only spoil each other. Sow
the seed very thinly in well-drained 6-inch or
larger pots or pans, using fine sandy soil, give a
gentle watering, place not far from the hot-water
pipes at the warmest end of the house, cover with

a square of glass, and shade. Give a watering
through a fine rose whenever the soil approaches
dryness, and remove both the shading and glass
directly the tops of the seedlings are well out of
the soil. Before they become much drawn, trans-
fer to a shelf near to the glass with a view to
strengthening, prior to placing them singly in
2-inch pots. This latter should be done directly
the plants have formed two leaves other than the
seed leaves. Use light loamy soil previously
warmed : lift the seedlings out"of the soil with a
label and sink them deeply down the sides of the
pots. Those who have plenty of warmth at their
command need not take so much trouble, nor need
they place them in such small pots, but the
amateur has to be most painstaking to make up
for other deficiencies. The newly-potted plants
should be stood on a warm staging, given a gentle
watering— warm water both then and at all times
being used — and shaded with a newspaper from
bright sunshine. Directly they have formed a
few fresh roots return to the shelves. In from a
fortnight to three weeks after their removal to
the shelves they ought to be ready for their final
shift. No greater mistake than keeping them too
long in small pots can be made. Directly they
become root-bound the top growth hardens and
becomes spindlv, and if the fruiting quarters can-
not be got ready for them by the time the plants
are fit, give the latter a shift into 6-inch pots and
keep them growing sturdily in these. This hint
should also be profited by by those gardeners who
place their seedlings in small pots and are not
able to shift them into their truiting quarters
either under glass or in the open just when they
are ready for them.

Plants offered for sale are usually despatched
by parcels post, and are, as a matter of course,
shaken nearly clear of soil prior to packing in
light boxes. In May or early in June such, when
received, might be placed direct into their fruiting
quarters, but earlier in the season they ought
first to be recovered from the severe check given.
If 4 inches and upwards in length and well
rooted, place them singly in 4-inch or rather
larger pots, smaller plants getting smaller sizes.
Keep them somewhat close and warm till they
are rooting afresh, when a sunny staging or shelf
would be the best place for them. In "this case,
again, there should be no undue delay in trans-
ferring to fruiting quarters.

Next a few hints as to the fruiting quarters.
Various sites can be turned to good account in
Tomato culture, but amateurs will do well to
depend principally upon plants arranged along
the sunny fronts and trained up the roofs of the
houses. A row of 10-inch pots might be set just
clear of each other, a single plant going into each,
or rough boxes of some description could be ar-
ranged in a row, and plants put out 12 inches
apart in a single line. If the staging could be
slated or tiled over, then both pots and boxes
could be dispensed with, a ridge of soil 15 inches
wide at the base and 10 inches deep being substi-
tuted, putting out the plants 12 inches apart.
No particular mixture is absolutely necessary,
but if good brown fibrous loam is plentiful by all
means use it freely, adding to every four bushels
one bushel of nearly fresh horse droppings. We
have to be content with a mixture of three parts
of good garden scil of a clayey loam nature to
one of horse droppings, adding a sprinkling
of road grit and fine mortar rubbish. If avail-
able, a 6 inch potful of steamed bone-meal
should be mixed with every bushel of soil, or
some special artificial manures may be substi-
tuted, using these at the rates advised by the
vendors. In each and every case, or whatever
moderately rich mixture of soils and manure may
be made, either place it in the pots, boxes, or
ridges a week prior to planting in it, or else
warm it by means of a few heated bricks buried
in the heap. Pots should be only about half filled
at first, and equally good room be allowed in the
boxes for top-dressings. See that the soil in the
small pots is thoroughly moist prior to turning
them out, and later on it is of the greatest import-
ance that these balls of soil and roots be kept

uniformly moist without, however, badly saturat-
ing and souring the new soil surrounding them.
Plant firmly and leave a hollow in the centre, so
as to be able to water the centre readily and
without using much of it. From first to last
remove all the side shoots that spring from
the axils of the leaves on the main stem, and
when the points of the lead divide, as strong
plants frequently do, cut away one of the two and
the other will continue to extend upwards. Never
delay this work of removing side shoots till it is
necessary to use a knife, or otherwise there will
be so much vigour wasted, light crops also forming
on neglected plants. Stakes will be needed to
support the plants till such time as the roof trellis
is reached, and it is immaterial whether the latter
consists of wires passed through galvanised eyes
!) inches in length, and screwed into the wood-
work of the roof, straining these across the roof at
a distance of 111 inches apart, or a trellis is tem-
porarily formed with bamboo or other light stakes.
If there are any very large ugly flowers in the
centre of strong trusses pinch them out, as they
are invariably followed by ugly fruit, and their
removal will greatly strengthen the rest. During
the flowering period give a smart tap to the
stems everyday towards noon, this distributing the
pollen and effecting a good set of fruit. Long before
many fruits are beginning to swell top-dress with
rich compost, taking care, however, to water when
the soil underneath is getting dry, not waiting till
the unoccupied fresh soil shows signs of dryness.
Repeat this top-dressing directly that last given
is crowded with roots, and a fortnight afterwards
either give a light surfacing of special manure, or
else use weak liquid manure frequently. Plants
bearing heavy crops must be well fed up at the
roots, abundance of water or liquid manure being
most necessary in the case of plants with a much
limited root run. Avoid wholesale mutilation of
the leaves. If they smother the ripsning fruit,
then reduce them in size considerably, but do not
cripple the plants by robbing them of the best of
their lungs and digestive organs. A dry atmo-
sphere, and which means a little to pair when the
house begins to feel warm and moist, is most
imperative. Selwood.

Large Onions. — I have been interested read-
ing Mr. Iggulden's article on heavy crops of
Onions and the right way to obtain such crops,
but I have found — as doubtless Mr. Iggulden and
others have — that large Onions are not the best
for keeping. This jear our large Onions have
kept badly, while the small and medium-sized
ones have kept very well indeed. Large Onions
are excellent early in the season, but for keeping
well give me specimens below the medium size of
Brown Globe. The production of large Onions
for exhibition is well understood by the cottagers
in Lancashire. Some years ago the late Mr.
Samuel Barlow took me through some of the best
gardens in the neighbourhood of Middleton, and I
was particularly interested in the cuiture of Celery
and Onions. The Onion seed is sown on February
1 in very small pots, three seeds in the centre of
a pot in good, rich, firm soil. One plant only is
allowed to grow. The seed is not sown in a hot-
bed, or, at least, if placed there to vegetate, is
speedily removed, as the object is to obtain a
steady vigorous growth from the first. Tho
plants are kept near the glass until it is time to
plant them out, and this is done as soon as the
weather is favourable. They are planted in rich
deep soil, and as the leaves develop they are care-
fully tied up to a trellis so that none of them will
be bent, bruised or broken. None but enthusiasts
in Onion culture would take such pains. -
J. Douglas.

Early vegetables and salads. — I see frame
culture and hotbeds are recommended to obtain
early vegetables. This they will do, but they are
rather inconvenient in small gardens. Where
there is plenty of glass and ample space it is
easy enough to obtain what is wanted. I sow
Cabbage and Cauliflower seed in boxes and it
vegetates rapidly in the early vinery, the seed-

184

THE GARDEN

[Mabch 16, 1895.

lings being pricked out when they have grown
enough. To those who have no room for irames
hoisted on to a hotbed, and who cannot afford
vineries and forcing houses, I can recommend the
appliances called ground vineries. They were
invented by the late Mr. Thomas Rivers, of Saw-
bridgeworth, to grow Grapes. They are 2 ft. 6 in.
wide at the base and in the form of a triangle, and
in 7-feet lengths, with one close end only, so that
when two are put end to end they are long enough
to cover a Vine 14 feet in length. Some persons
may say : How can you grow Vines in such a low
structure, about 18 inches or so from the surface
of the ground to the apex of the roof; Vines can
be grown, and such as will produce excellent
Grapes. I have grown capital Black Hamburgh
Grapes in them, the bunches weighing from 1 lb.
to 2 lbs. each. The Vines are pegged to the
ground, and the growths trained over elates laid
flat out on the ground. After a time I had
plenty of Grapes in ordinary vineries, and for
twenty-five years I have sown all my very early
crops under the ground vineries. Early Carrots
are sown, and between the rows of the Carrots
Lettuce and Radish seeds. The Lettuce plants
are thinned out to be planted in the open garden.
Celery seed is also sown for the early crops. My
own experience with Celery sown in boxes and
placed in vineries, and even hotbeds, to vegetate
is that it will often run to seed in the autumn, or
even in summer, when seed sown under ground
vineries will not do so. The vineries can if re-
quired be placed on the Vines in April after they
have given the early vegetables a good start. —
J. Douglas.

Potatoes.— The season for planting these will
soon be upon us again, and as varieties are so
numerous one is almost puzzled to know what to
plant. Those who have only the limited space of
a kitchen garden in which to grow their supplies
are not able to test the numerous new varieties,
as every available inch of ground is required for
the production of other crops. Of the many va-
rieties introduced during late years, none are better
adapted for the kitchen garden than Sutton's
Supreme and Windsor Castle. With these two
and a good early Ashleaf kind, a supply may be
kept up the whole year round. Those, however,
who have the command of field space can grow
many more varieties. There is, however, nothing
gained by growing so many sorts. It cannot be
too deeply impressed on those who have not had
experience in preparing the sets that one of the
chief roads to success is to prevent the tubers
intended for planting from making premature
growth. All seed should be spread out on shallow
trays or shelves, where they can be exposed to the
light without fear of being caught by the frost.
Fair-sized sets should be chosen, and if these are
allowed to make short, stout growths before being
planted, they will doubtless grow more evenly
afterwards. I prefer whole sets, as from experi-
ence I find that such produce the best crops.
During the dry summer of 1893 many of the cut
sets failed to grow, particularly those that were
planted late and had previously had the shoots
rubbed off' them. In some fields nearly one-half
of the rows planted with sets so treated failed. In
all cases the soil should be well worked and ren-
dered as fine as possible previous to planting.
Avoid covering the sets too deeply on heavy soil ;
if planted on the surface where sufficient earth
can be drawn over them, they will do far bettet
than if planted too deep. — H. C. P.

Scarcity of salads. — Doubtless this winter
will have played sad havoc with winter Lettuces,
but there are several ways of growing green salads
if only required for cutting up for the salad-bowl.
I do not intend to write on the value of Mustard
and Cress, as everyone may grow this in quan-
tity, but how many fail simply because they cover
the seed with too much soil. The best results are
secured by sowing on the surface and merely
covering the seed with glass or paper till it has
germinated. Again, how readily Dandelion is
forced for salad in only a warm greenhouse under
a stage, the leaves being of a pale green colour
and of great value in the early spring. Chicory

is also good, but though readily forced, this
with Dandelion may be too bitter, but is excel-
lent if used with Mustard and Cress and other
salads. The green tops or blanched portion of
Celery is a delightful addition to the salad-bowl
if used sparingly. The little-used Corn Salad or
Land Cress is very hardy, and, sown in the autumn
in quantity, is useful for early spring cutting.
Watercress may be grown to perfection without a
running stream. My method is to sow a box of
seed in a frame or house in February, and when
above the soil prick off or transplant into other
boxes. As growth advances water freely, always
using tepid water and light soils for the roots.
When of good size, the plants lift well if properly
hardened, and planted under a wall and sheltered
for a time with copious supplies of water during
the season, they will give a good supply at a small
cost. But my note is more applicable to the pro-
duction of salads even earlier than that advised
by planting Watercress in the open. If some
boxes are planted and kept indoors they give a
lot of shoots, as, unlike Mustard or Cress, the
more Watercress is cut, the thicker it grows.
Another ready way to obtain small Lettuces for
cutting is to use a small or early kind and sow in
boxes, and when about 4 inches high to cut over
in the same way as one does with smaller salads.
A cheap kind is most suitable, and it is surprising
what a lot of material an ounce of seed will pro-
duce. Of course such Lettuce is only good for the
salad-bowl. --W. S.

PEAS FOR MARKET.
The prolonged frosty weather has much inter-
fered with the routine work of those who grow
Peas for market. Growers like to get the seed
for the earliest crop sown either at the end of
January or early in February, but according to
the present outlook there appears no chance of
the seed being sown until the end of the month —
in fact, not until it is time that the second earlies
should be got in. My remarks apply chiefly to a
class of cultivators that grow Peas largely for
distribution in the great northern and midland
towns. The acreage of each is not great. They
for the most part hire a field or two where the
land is suitable, only retaining the land long
enough to get the crop. Preference is always
given to a sandy, loamy soil that is naturally well
drained for the earliest crop. Land that is some-
what heavier is reserved for the late crop and for
Peas that have a stronger growth. The land is
not, as a rule, ploughed until just before the Peas
are sown, nor is it turned up too deeply, as it is
usual for the ground to be manured before plough-
ing. If it be buried very deep the crop does not
benefit from it, as early Peas are not deep-rooting
subjects. I notice that the class of cultivators to
which I allude are careful not to work the ground
while it is wet. Especially is this the case with
regard to ploughing. Harrows are used to level
down the surface after the plough when the sur-
face is fairly dry and the seed is put in by a drill.
With regard to the sorts of Peas grown for
market, very few of the newer kinds find perma-
nent favour. They are either too tender or not
sufficiently productive. I am acquainted with one
grower who last year tried William Hurst on
rather a large scale, but it proved unremunera-
tive as a field Pea. The growth was too dwarf to
be productive. Harrison's Glory and Eclipse as
second earlies are more largely grown than any
other sorts, although not exclusively so. One
would hardly expect to find the Blue Scimitar in
favour now that there are so many other sorts to
choose from. Those who grow it have, however,
a select stock which they are careful to keep from
deteriorating by judicious selection. As seen grow-
ing, the Scimitar appears able to resist drought
better than any other kind I have seen, and it is
not so subject to mildew. It, however, requires
a fairly rich soil and deeper cultivation than is
provided for the earliest sorts. Day's Sunrise is a
profitable market Pea with those who have a
rather deeper soil than is usual. It should have 6
inches more room between the rows than is allowed

for some of the others ; 2 feet between the rows i8
what is generally allowed, but at that distance
the plants are often crowded. As those with
stronger growth are acknowledged to be the most
productive, the distance might in good soils be
increased (i inches or 9 inches more. There is a
round white seeded Pea of the type of Daniel
O'Rourke that is frequently grown by those who
have warm and sheltered fields in which to grow
it. This sort appears to be principally con-
fined to the west country growers, who appear to
take some pains to keep the stock pure. One
grower in particular takes the trouble once in two
years to grow a few rows in his garden for seed-
ing, and weeds out any plants that do not come up
to the character of the type. I have no doubt this
is a good way to keep a pure stock. An inspection
of the different crops when growing reveals the
difference in the size and length of the pods as
compared to those that are produced by a stock
less carefully selected. An early crop of this sort
very often proves to be the most profitable in-
vestment, although at no time do the growers ex-
perience any difficulty in clearing out their pro-
duce. I am assured it is the small quantities that
are sent to local markets that do not realise so
much money. The choice of a suitable soil and
climatic influence are evidently the first considera-
tions for those who wish to embark in the business
of growing Peas for market. North Petherton,
the district to which my remarks chiefly apply, is
one of those favoured localities that in all respects
is eminently favourable for the production of all
early crops of vegetables, Peas especially. See-
ing that it is not more than six or eight miles
from Bridgewater Bay, it will be understood that
climatic influence is all in favour of the cultiva-
tor. J. C. Clarke.

NEW ASPARAGUS BEDS.
Where it is intended to plant fresh beds of this
vegetable in epring they should now be got ready
in order that they may duly settle. The mixing
of the soil and general arrangement of the bed
must depend entirely on the position, subsoil, and
nature of the staple soil of the site it is to occupy.
If favoured with a gentle inclination to the south,
a fair depth of open porous soil, and a natural
drainage, nothing more is wanted than a thorough
trenching two spits deep and a free admixture of
rich manure in a semi-rotten state, some rough
leaf mould, road scrapings, and burnt refuse. In
such positions raised beds are not necessary, and if
the old-fashioned 4-feet beds are preferred, all
that is needed is a 2-foot alley between them,
stout stakes being driven in at the corners as
boundary marks. On clay or very retentive
bottoms the preparation is much more difficult,
as if a free escape for all superfluous water is not
provided, failure must ensue. In the first place
the soil should be removed to a depth of IS inches
and of the required width, wheeled on one side,
and where sufficient new soil of a suitable char-
acter is not obtainable, a portion of it burnt to be
mixed with the new soil as the work of filling in
proceeds. The bottom of the excavated portion
should gently slope to one side, along which a
main drain of 4-inch pipes should be laid, cross
ones being connected at intervals. Where this
drain cannot be let into the main drain of the
kitchen garden, a well may be formed by dig-
ging a hole some 6 feet deep and filling it up
with rough stones, clinkers, or brick ends, con-
necting the pipe with it. Then over the bottom
lay from li inches to 8 inches of the same rough
materials, and on this rough sods from any waste
pasture, grass side downwards. In filling in, if new
soil is not at command, that from some lighter
part of the garden may be used, adding a large
percentage of the opening materials recommended
above and one-fourth of the original soil in a
burnt condition. If horse manure can be had it
will answer better for this bed than ordinary farm-
yard manure. It will also be advisable to raise
the beds some 6 inches above the ordinary level,
this increasing the warmth at the roots and keep-
ing them in a drier condition generally. I have

March 16, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

185

now abandoned the old 4-foot beds on warm, light
soils, preferring to plant in single rows, with 3
feet from plant to plant and the same distance
between the rows. Thus favoured with plenty of
light and air the plants make rapid growth and
quickly meet each other, stout grass and plenty of
it invariably following. J. Crawford.

The frost and the crops.— Although some
districts have been visited by intenser frost than
others, it is now pretty certain that very few
green vegetables will escape the ordeal, and that
prices will run high during the coming spring
and early summer. In our own garden not only
will all Broccoli in the open be killed down, but
Cabbage sprouts and Brussels- Sprouts also.
Scotch and Asparagus Kale may escape, but they
will be very hard hit. Young spring Cabbage
plants and Spinach owing to their being well
covered by the snow will, I trust, escape with only
a crippling. We have had to cover over hand-
lights with mats and litter to save the autumn -
planted Cauliflowers. In this district from 36° to
40° of frost have been registered. — J. Crawford,
Newark.

A note ' Tl Onions (E. B. C). — I consider it
proved beyond a doubt that transplanted Onions
are more to be depended on than those sown in
the ordinary way. Yearly I sow a few, generally
Bedfordshiro Champion, but I never can depend
upon them, while 1 am almost certain of having
a crop of good bulbs in my transplanted lot.
Cranston's Excelsior, Trebons, and White Spanish
are my favourites. I do not sow any of the au-
tumn Tripoli kinds, as they do not keep long
enough. I sow Excelsior in boxes in September,
stand them in a cold frame during the middleof the
winter, and plant out as soon as the weather and
ground are favourable in spring. These do not
run to seed, ripen early, and give a heavy keeping
crop worth harvesting. — J. B. O.

A good forcing- Bean. — Those who require
early dishes in advance of the first gathering in
the open should grow the new climbing French
Bean. This, grown in large pots with a few
sticks to support the tops, is most valuable, as one
may gather in quantity Beans of equal quality to
those in the open. Many have cool or fruit houses
where a few pots of this variety may be grown. I
had it last season in a late Peach house, and was
well repaid by the quantity and quality of the
crop. Seeds sown early in April will produce
nice dishes late in May at a season when choice
vegetables are none too plentiful. My plants
were in 12-inch pots, topped, at 3 feet from the
pots, grown in front of Peaches and well supplied
with moisture overhead and at the roots. Those
who have lofty houses may allow their plants to
run up more, but they fruit freely when topped,
and are more prolific than the dwarfer kinds.
They do not get so tough, the pods being more
fleshy and less stringy. — S. H. B.

Duke of York Tomato.— This new Tomato
will soon get popular, and doubtless be a good
companion to Perfection and Ham Green. The
plant crops well and the fruits are of fine ap-
pearance, being scarlet, solid, with very few seeds,
and just the size required for sale or private use,
whilst they are of splendid flavour. I have seen
some large fruits where thinning has been done,
but this is no advantage. I would prefer those of
medium size and in quantity. If the plants are
allowed to carry eight to ten fruits in a truss, they
will be quite large enough. For pot culture or
planted out on a shallow bed, this variety crops
well ; the foliage is robust and the fruits ripen in
quantity at one time. A large grower, who
supplies the market in large quantities, told me
this was a valuable variety for market. — G.
Wythes.

Daisy Pea. — This is a fine Pea for forcing in
pots, boxes or any other method which may be
adopted to raise an early crop for planting out.
It is one of the Marrowfat section with a good-
sized pod. For many years I have grown Strata-
gem, one of the best varieties ever sent out, because

of its free cropping and splendid quality when
cooked. The Daisy Pea may be called a dwarf
form of Stratagem and is equal to that variety
as regards cropping and quality, but is an earlier
or quicker podding form. Many grow the small
white-seeded varieties for early supplies, but for
pot or frame culture I do not consider them worth
the trouble. For frame culture the Daisy is un-
equalled, as being only 15 inches in height it can
be grown in a small space and the haulm is
weighted down by the crop. In an}' position it is
best to place small sticks to support the haulm,
as the pods being large for the small top, supports
are necessary. For sowing in the open to succeed
such varieties as Chelsea Gem it is unequalled,
and as it takes up little space it is suitable for all
gardens. I gathered this variety the third week
in May, 1893, on a south border from seed sown
in the open. I admit it was an exceptional season,
but I do not know of any second early variety
more reliable or of better quality. — G. Wythes.

Crimson Ball Beetroot. — Salads will be scarce
this spring, so those who can secure a good stock
of early Beetroot will find it a welcome addition
to the salad bowl. The Turnip-rooted section is
specially adapted for early culture, and if the seed
be sown late in March on a warm sloping border,
this variety may be had fit for use at the end of May.
I do not know of a better variety than Crimson
Ball for first sowing. It is a great acquisition to
the list of Turnip Beetroots and the earliest I have
grown. A pinch of seed is sown in a pan or box
and the seedlings potted off. They are planted
out when ready on a warm, sheltered border, and
the one named is admirably adapted for forcing,
if the term can be applied to this root. Sown in
the ordinary way early in April, this variety is fit
for use in June, and the roots when sent to table
are of splendid colour. It is not a vigorous
grower, so occupies but a small space, and the
roots keep firm and good a long time if lifted and
placed in soil on a north or shady border. — G.
Wythes.

EARLY CAULIFLOWERS.
There will doubtless be a considerable loss of
the autumn-sown plants with such severe frosts
as we have experienced during the past month.
To make sure it is well to prepare for the worst,
and by sowing in heat to a certain extent make
good any losses that have occurred. This vege-
table is always more appreciated in the early part
of the summer before the Peas, Beans and
Marrows are plentiful, as later in the year the
heads are stronger and not so much in demand, so
that it is well to get a plentiful supply through
May and June at a season they are more useful.
For sowing in heat there is a good selection.
For earlinees, Snowball is one of the best.
It is not large and should never get checked
during growth, or it will turn in prematurely.
Another very fine kind is Veitch's Forcing, a valu-
able small variety and suitable for pot culture. The
heads are white, close, and just the size for table.
If seed be sown nowthe heads will be fit to cut at the
end of May. This variety is very dwarf and may
be planted rather thickly. It is a splendid frame
Cauliflower. The Pearl is good for early crops
and the heads are of fine quality, but it is later
than those named above. Last season I saw some
very fine crops of Sutton's First Crop from plants
sown early in February in frames. It is a splendid
forcing variety, the habit being dwarf and com-
pact. There are others, but those named are all
good for sowing under glass for early supplies. I
have seen it stated that there is no gain whatever
in sowing the early varieties in autumn when the
losses are considered. I do not think so, as the
losses are few if the plants be sheltered from
cutting winds and not exposed too much after
frost. It is a great advantage to have a good
stock of plants for early March planting. Crow
the Walcheren and Dwarf Erfurtfor spring cutting.
When the seed is sown as advised at this date it
requires care from the start. If the plants are
not well hardened off' there are losses at planting
time. Sow a box of seed in a warm house, and

when the young plants are above the soil transfer
them to a frame. There will be plants ready to
prick out on a warm bed in a month's time, and
these, given protection with a frame, will be
fit to place in the open in two months from the
time of sowing the seed. Plants grown in this
way may, if required for a special date, be grown
on a bed with frame protection, and will soon turn
in if given plenty of liquid manure.

G. Wythes.

Dwarf Gem Brussels Sprout. — I recently
saw a splendid quarter of the above variety,
which is certainly a gem, the sprouts being small
or what may be termed medium-sized, of good
flavour and very solid, whilst the plants are dwarf
and hardy. This variety this season has stood
the severe weather much better than the large
kinds, and as regards flavour it is excellent.
Many do not grow the dwarf kinds through their
supposed small yield, but such is not the case, as
the plants may be put more closely together, and
if weight of produce be taken into account, they
produce better crops. — G. W.

Arctic Kale. — As the name implies, this Kale
or Borecole should be the hardiest of all Kales,
and it certainly is, as with the thermometer below
zero on several occasions I thought it would have
been too much for most of the plants, but on
February 18, when we had a slight thaw, this
variety looked well, the hearts being quite sound,
and there was no injury to the stem. I saw this
variety exhibited in splendid condition last spring
and made a note of it for trial, especially the
purple variety, and it is very good at this date.
Though the seed was sown late in April, the
plants are well furnished with finely curled leaves,
which quite hide the stem from view. This variety
being a large grower requires space to develop,
and should not be crowded in the seed bed. Treated
thus, with the seed not sown too early, it is cer-
tainly one of the best winter Kales grown, and one
that well repays for the room given to it. Those
who require a quantity of late green vegetables
for April or May should give it a trial, as after
the first cutting the sprouts are produced in
abundance. — G. W.

Salading. — The season being so far advanced,
any remaining stock of Chicory may be stored in
a spare pit or frame, protected at night from
frost, and one light blanched at a time by cover-
ing with mats or litter. In Mushroom houses it
comes on rapidly at this date, and cannot then
be kept in a usable state for long ; whereas in
the former position it can be preserved for any
length of time. American or Sand Cress may be
sown in sheltered nooks this month, and small
salad now brought on in cooler houses than here-
tofore. By these means the quality of all is im-
proved.

Planting Rhubarb. — In gardens where there
is much demand for forced Rhubarb, planting to
a greater or less extent is necessary each season,
or the stock soon runs out. Where large stools
exist that are forced where they stand, or come
on gradually by being covered with litter, por-
tions may be detached from them and planted out
on good open soil, well enriched with manure.
Sufficient should be grown to allow of a number
of three-year-old crowns being lifted for earliest
forcing each year. Prince Albert is unsurpassed
for the purpose, but care must be taken where a
new stock has to be purchased, as this variety is
hard to obtain. It is smalt in growth, but bright
in colour and of delicious flavour. Johnston's St.
Martin is likewise a popular sort for early work,
and deservedly so. For making late growth and
for making wine and jam, Myatt's Victoria is a
capital variety. Later supplies may also be had
by planting in positions somewhat shaded, even
behind north walls.

Early Turnips. — In favoured localities and
where the soil is of a warm, genial nature, a small
plot may be prepared towards the middle of the
month for sowing seed of Early Milan or the old
white Dutch Turnip. Both of these are reliable

186

THE GARDEN.

[March 16, 1895.

for early work, as they seldom run to seed. I
would advise sowing both varieties, as Early
Milan does its work in a little less time than the
Dutch, the latter forming a good succession and
remaining in excellent condition for a considerable
time. In midland and northern districts it is ad-
visable to wait till the first week in April before
making this sowing, and even in warm counties
raised beds and extra sheltered borders are neces-
sary. Guano or powdered fowl's manure placed
on the surface of the bed after the seedlings are
thinned out helps to forward the crop, these being
of a heating nature. A few Yew boughs placed
here and there about the bed as soon as there are
signs of germination form a good shelter and
hasten growth. Protect from birds, or the crop
is doomed. — J. C.

plants morning and evening, and shutting up in
the afternoon with a good sun heat. In this
manner a dull, wet or cold season does not spoil
them as if outside, and handsome plants are
obtained that are useful for decoration or for their
fruits. W. G. C.

CAPSICUMS AND CHILIES.
These useful and ornamental plants do not appear
so frequently in many gardens as they did some
twenty years ago. In those days they were grown
in quantity for room, table and conservatory deco-
ration, and very effective they were. The only
neighbourhood that I have seen any number grown
of late years is about Cheltenham, and at the Sep-
tember shows until recently held there Capsicums
formed a very striking feature in the collections of
vegetables, and the judges certainly gave those
collections the preference that contained a mound
of these fruits in mixed or separate colours.
Whether Capsicums should be counted a telling
dish in a collection of vegetables is a question
that I have had doubts upon, and some judges
would be apt to disqualify such collections, no
matter how well grown they were. The variety
the Cheltenham growers principally favoured was
named Bull's Nose, each fruit being about as
thick as it was long and slightly corrugated. Of
the very large type, Red Giant is one of the most
useful, and was preferred to all other varieties in
a former situation that I held, and where Capsi-
cums were in demand, the fruits being liked best
in a green state, the flavour being considered
superior then to when they were ripe. The red
and yellow Tomato-shaped are also excellent ; the
flavour is mild both in the green and ripe state.
If a particularly hot Capsicum is appreciated,
Long Yellow will be useful ; even veterans from
India or other warm climes I have heard exclaim
against its pungency. For decoration, Prince of
Wales is about the most ornamental variety ; the
fruit is small and of a bright yellow colour, set
freely amongst bright green leaves. A lovely
companion to this is Crimson Bouquet Chili.
These two should be grown together, or rather
placed side by side when decorating, as they form
a striking contrast to each other both by under
natural and artificial light. Coral Red is another
charming Chili, the foliage and fruit being
specially attractive by lamp or gas-light. It is
also well worth growing as a table plant.

The culture of these useful plants is very simple,
and, provided insects are not allowed to infest
them, good results can be secured with the ordi-
nary treatment given to half-hardy plants in warm
districts. Seeds sown at any time in February in
light, rich soil and placed in a temperature of
about 65° will soon germinate. As the seedlings
get well through the soil, it is advisable to place
them near the glass to prevent their becoming
drawn ; short, sturdy plants are thus secured,
that will be more fruitful than is possible with
those that were drawn and weakly in their in-
fancy. Immediately the seedlings are large enough
to handle they should be transferred singly to
small pots, still keeping them close to the glass.
As the pots become full of roots a shift into a
larger size will be beneficial, but, as a rule, a
6-inch pot is large enough for the final shift. In
pots this size, weak liquid manure given several
times a week in hot weather will assist the plants
and their fruit, and by its invigorating influence
help to keep down red-spider. Towards the end
of May the plants may be placed in a warm and
sheltered position outside, or, what is better still,
they can be grown in cold frames, syringing the

Flower Garden.

SPRING BITTER VETCH.

(OROBUS VEENUS.)

This is one of the best and hardiest of spring
flowers, one of a family many of whom are
beautiful and nearly all hardy. Its brilliant
bloom has a curious and striking colour - har-
mony of crimson, purple and blue that is well
set off by its bright, clean-looking leaves. It is
a good plant for the rockery or the front edge
of the flower border. The black roots form very
tight and close masses— a fact the practical gar-
dener becomes keenly aware of when every
three or four years he has to divide the clumps.

Spring Bitter Vetch (Orotus vernus). Engraved
for The Garden from a photograph sent by
Mias Jekyll, Munstead, Godalming.

It is wild in low alpine districts in thin woody
fringes, but in the garden does well in almost
any soil and position. G. J.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Special summer flowers. — Fuchsias. — It is only
within the last few years that the greenhouse
Fuchsias have been used for outdoor planting.
Plenty of gardeners doubtless remember the time
when the family was only represented outside by
such sorts as gracilis, globosa, and Riccartoni.
Following these came the variegated form of
gracilis, with Sunray and Meteor to furnish a
type of variegation somewhat different in style to
that obtainable from Pelargoniums. Then there
was an attempt with such old sorts as Rose of
Castile and Mme. Cornelissen, and these proving
a success, few flower gardens of to-day are con-
sidered complete without a goodly supply of
Fuchsias. The old hardy sorts are not used so
frequently as they might be, especially on borders
of large size ; the long graceful shoots with the
small leaves and flowers tend to make the plants
very effective when grouped with large-foliaged
shrubs or tall herbaceous things. They are seen
to advantage on either side, a porch backing up
plants of dwarfer habit. I have only had a
failure with these Fuchsias once in thirteen years,
and that was in the very trying summer of 1893 ;
fiey could not hold their own on a light soil,
growth was poor, and the flowers scanty and
quickly over. A good mulching would have
helped them, but the mulching material was
wanted for other things. Greenhouse varieties,
whether young or old cut-back plants that are
intended for the open air, should be grown along
quickly, that they may have time to develop into

the size required, and also to allow for a sojourn
for a time in a cool house before they are planted
outside. Excessive formality in the way of
stopping, staking and tying should be avoided,
and they should be planted thinly. A few nice
plants showing a dwarf carpet between them
make a far more acceptable bed than crowding
them up together. Free-flowering varieties of
sturdy habit are the best for outdoor work,
the colours being selected to meet the require-
ments of the planter. In that section with scarlet
sepals and a purple corolla I have been grow-
ing for some years a variety called Duke of
Edinburgh. I was considerably surprised to see
it catalogued in 1S94 as a new variety at 7s. 6d.
per plant. It is one of the most vigorous
Fuchsias in cultivation, blooms very freely, and
possesses the merit of retaining its flowers longer
than many varieties. It is a capital variety grown
in large pots for the summer clothing of pillars,
portions of verandahs, screens, &c.

Trop.eolums. — The introduction of one or two
new varieties of sterling merit has given an im-
petus to the cultivation of Tropa?olums, and few
gardens are now without them. Vesuvius holds
its own as one of the best scarlet flowers obtain-
able, coming quickly into bloom and holding out
well until the advent of frost. Mrs. Clibran is a
very pretty shade of yellow ; it will do with rather
better soil than is advisable for most varieties,
being of very slender habit. The trailing varie-
ties Ball of Fire and Clibran's Gem are also good
bedders ; they are seen to the best advantage when
planted in raised beds where they are allowed to
ramble at will. A grand mass of colour is also
obtainable on such beds with the aid of the old
Canary Creeper. The centre of the bed may be
heightened with a mound of twiggy sticks, other
sticks being laid about the bed on which the plants
can ramble, and the seed dibbled in the soil
towards the end of April. Stronger plants that
come away without a check are secured in this
way than by sowing in pots and transplanting.
Plenty of self-sown plants will come up from such
a bed after a mild winter, but one is hardly likely
to see them in the spring of 1895. Double Tro-
preolums, though not often used, are occasionally
useful for poor dry slopes ; if planted in fairly good
soil, the foliage is developed to the extent of
smothering the flowers. The beauty of all the
tender annual Troprcolums is, however, eclipsed by
the perennial T. speciosum if a suitable place can
be found for it. If anyone has a big rough stump
or a portion of a rockery to cover in a cool, moist,
shady place, he cannot do better than plant T.
speciosum. The soil should be broken up deeply,
trenched in fact, and if not naturally good, better
material must be added. Plant deeply and give
a heavy surface mulching of short manure.

Chrysanthemum frutescens and its varieties
rank amongst the best things for large beds, and
would probably be more frequently seen were it
not that the s-tock is often destroyed or so dis-
figured as to be practically useless by the attack
of the leaf-boring fly. This pest, like many others,
seems to be locally troublesome, some districts
being comparatively free, whilst in others it seems
almost impossible to keep clean, healthy foliage.
If the stock kept through the winter is clean, the
plants may be pinched and potted on, using 4-inch
pots. Bi-weekly doses of liquid manure will
doubtless be necessary before planting time, as the
Paris Daisy is a rapid-rooting and a hungry
plant. If there is the slightest sign of the insect
(tiny excrescences will be perceptible on the foliage
before the maggot begins its boring), clean
cuttings should be obtained and the old plants
burnt. In addition to their value for the open
garden, these Daisies make charming vase plants
if pinched in the early stage of growth to keep
them well furnished throughout with foliage. One
good plant will fill a vase satisfactorily, with Ball
of Fire Trop;eolum as an edging.

Ivy-leaf Pelargoniums. — Although these have
been used for flower garden work in an ordinary
manner for some length of time, a newer plan is
to isolate them as tall specimens on a dwarfer
carpet, and those readers who have not already

March 16, 1895.] '

THE GARDEN

187

tried the practice will find that wonderfully pretty
beds are the result of such planting. Choose
sturdy autumn-struck plants, and shift at once
into 4-inch pots, stake with a fairly stout cane 2
feet in length, allow three or four growths to run,
and pinch at the top of the cane. The plants
early in the summer will form nice little irregular
pyramids, and the trailing shoots will also run
along the ground and mix with the dwarfer
carpet. This may be of tufted Pansies, and as the
majority of the Ivies are of soft, quiet colours,
there should be little difficulty in getting pleas-
ing contrasts.

Cuphea platycentra. — An old-fashioned plant
not very often seen in gardens, but holding its
own against man}- things of more modern in-
troduction, dwarf and compact in habit and very
free flowering. A very pretty bed can be made by
planting thinly alternate clumps of Heliotrope and
Centaurea ragusina, and filling in the remainder
of the bed with the Cuphea.

Gazania splendens. — Another old-fashioned
flower very useful for any situations where the
majority of plants are not satisfactory. This is a
plant that amply repays a little extra care from
the cutting pot. Given nice bushy stuff at plant-
ing time, it is one of the quickest growing things
we have. E. Bcrrell.

Claremont.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.

Sarracenias. — I daresay that almost one of the
first thoughts in connection with these will be
their want of hardiness. I fear it is the variable-
ness of our climate that tries even the hardier
varieties of this singular genus. We often have
our intensest frosts without a covering of snow,
and, worse still for plants with at least a measure
of verdant winter foliage, often the most wither-
ing east winds. Doubtless we have yet to learn
something about the best means of accommodating
these plants out of doors, and should we attain the
knowledge of the better treatment, it is reason-
able to believe that the plants will be rendered
more capable of enduring the winters. I am told
that S. flava is one of the best plants for landscape
effect in its native country. In the South Ameri-
can woods it forms a feature of the landscape,
whole acres being covered with the showy yellow
leaves 2 feet to 3 feet high. My own experience
does not warrant me in saying more at present
about the Sarracenias than that with proper
treatment they are not the slow-rooting things I
used to suppose. Given fresh imported roots,
with a good sound piece of root-stock and a few
leaves in a green state, they root rapidly in moist
spongy peat liberally mixed with sand, and all
the Sarracenias affect a somewhat shady situation.
I have at present under trial some four varieties,
and if these, which had become nicely established
before winter, come safely through with the
trifling protection of a handful of Bracken, I shall
be delighted, because then I shall see no reason
why they should not be planted in telling groups.
Rhexia virginica.— I have always treated
this suspiciously for hardiness, but I think that a
recent test to which a small batch of plants has
been subjected fairly justifies one in not merely
assuming, but affirming its hardiness. The mode
and conditions were that established plants in
pots, grown plunged in sand all the summer, were
knocked down by the somewhat severe early
frosts. The pots were then taken into a cold
frame, where a few days ago along with many
other things they were frozen solid, with layers
of ice between the balls and the pots in the usual
way that pot plants are frozen, and in the mean-
time there had been 22° of frost, and if one
deducts 4° or 5° for the higher temperature of a
frame compared with the open, we find the tubers
of this beautiful Virginian plant enduring 18°.
That of course is not so much as we often get, but
I consider that roots with their vital parts kept
so near the surface, and exposure otherwise as in
the case of pot plants, they are more severely
tried than open-ground plants, the degrees of cold
being emal. I believe this is a point generally

conceded in relation to pot plants. One has, of
course, learned to be jealous of the seeming
soundness of plants and roots for a considerable
time after frost-bite, and we know many instances
of plants that may seem sound to the naked eye
at their vital parts for weeks after the frost has
gone, but were such plants closely scrutinised by
the aid of knife and lens, it would soon be seen
whether rupture of tissue had occurred. I will
only add that in the case of the Rhexia it proves
sound after careful examination subsequent to
the above-described attacks of frost.

Brachycome Sinclairi. — A curious bit of ex-
perience has accidentally occurred with this plant.
It is known that this somewhat rare plant is
rather tender, and though as a rare and beauti-
ful plant it merits some care, yet because of its
doubtful hardiness it has not here for the last
few jears received more attention than to have
given it the shelter of a cold frame plunged
in fibre, and, oddly enough, under these con-
ditions it has lived and sprung up from self-
sown seed. The curious experience comes in this
way : I thought I would nurse the best plant
I had and place it in a cool greenhouse near a
slight opening, so as not to lack air or to become
over-drawn. During the 25" of frost we have just
experienced, immediately around the opening I
noticed the plants were frost-bitten this morning,
and whilst the Odontoglossums seemed no worse
for the nip, the foliage of Brachycome seems
totally destroyed. No doubt the previous warmth
of the greenhouse had rendered it more tender,
and, likely enough, the extreme pubescence of the
plant would make the frost tell with all the more
effect. Moral : Had this plant been left in the
cold frame as before, it would no doubt, as of
yore, proved a flourishing plant in April or May.
The above facts are simple, it is true, but who
knows the value of facts better, and who could
profit more by them than the gardener ?

Soldanellas. — My own experience is, that
though seedlings can bo easily raised and grown
on to fine-flowering plants in two years, their
vigour is not more than that of older plants. In
other words, I do not consider these plants should
be classed with certain perennials that are known
to be better raised every year from seed with the
object of keeping up a succession of vigorous
young plants. From my experience, may I again
repeat, and I ought, perhaps, also to say that
here the Soldanellas all do well, as it would
obviously be misleading to quote test cases of
plants where something prevented their flourish-
ing, that very old plants do remarkably well, and
present themselves in such a desirable form as no
seedlings of two or even three years could. But
these results are certainly not had by a " left-
alone " treatment exactly. My treatment is to
top-dress them liberally with sand and peat or
sand and leaf-mould, on the principle that both
by the action of frost in winter and the way in
which, like other primulaceous plants, the crowns
and roots elevate themselves above the surface,
so that in time, unless top-dressed, they become
dried up and dwindle. Moreover, I believe that
if wildings are examined they will be found to
be flourishing in those positions where they re-
ceive periodically coverings of soil from the higher
ground, and anyone can satisfy himself that it is
the habit of these humble plants to so elongate
their rhizomes or root-stocks, that they must
inevitably die did they not by either natural or
artificial means receive timely coverings. I am
therefore quite sure that anyone will get better
results by cultivating into large masses old stock
compared with seedlings, though I by no means
wish to discourage seed-propagation.

Campanula valdensis (Alph. de O). — To
go into the authorities for this name and its place
botanically presents one of the instances of
authorised confusion, or confusion of authorities.
It is shown to be a variety of linifolia (of Lam. ),
while linifolia itself is made a variety of rotundi-
folia by Lapeyr. and also by Wahl. Again, it is
given as a species (All. ), and it has no less than
three or four synonyms, which, with all deference

to the authorities, I will not write here. The
plant may not be described as a minute form of
ca;spitosa, but minutely examined might be
imagined to have a near relationship to pulla and
Waldsteiniana. Its flowers, however, are very
pale, but so shell-like in substance, as to rattle
when dashed in the hand. Though at a glance it
might strongly remind one of pusilla, closely
examined it will be found to be a much more re-
fined Bellwort. It grows but 2 inches or 3 inches
high, smothers itself with pale pucy bells, and has
a moderate habit of spreading at the root. It is
one of those sweet little things that one may cram
into the loamy seams of a sunny rocken\ and that
may be repeated almost all over the garden with
pleasing effect ; or, to put it another way, it is
one of those spreading Campanulas that one could
hardly ever tire of. And did one do so, it is more
easily eradicated than some of the deeper rooters.
It might be suggested as a pretty carpet or foil
for late summer and autumn flowering bulbs, not
the earlier ones of spring, because then it is de-
foliated. Speaking of

Campanula pusilla, there are two Campanulas
of this name, but, fortunately, once known they
cannot be mistaken. One is the generally known
pretty creeper of Haenk and the other is authorised
by Alph. de C. as a variety of glomerata, one of
our British species.

Daphne rupestris. — I have had occasion of
late to seek out the authority for this name, and
as it did not prove to be one of the most readily
found, it may be useful to mention the informa-
tion I gleaned from the Rev. Mr. Wolley-Dod and
other sources. The authority for the name rupes-
tris is Facchias. The plant is identical with D.
petram of Leybold. It would seem that this
Tyrolean plant has been added to the flora of
Europe within comparatively recent years. It is
unnecessary to point out that though two such
names as petra'a and rupestris may have synony-
mous meanings, they may seldom refer to the same
plant when used by two different authorities, as
they do, however, in this case. If this pigmy
shrub has been described, I should be grateful to
anyone who would refer me to the description.
Hypericum balearicum.— Whether seen in the
form of a herbarium specimen or in a living state
this species is at once a remarkable and beautiful
plant. Until lately I must confess that I had
looked on it as considerably wanting in hardiness
as an open-air plant for Yorkshire. Latterly,
however, in correspondence with a friend, I have
received assurances that it may be grown and kept
going like several of the common St. John's
Worts. I attach much importance to this, be-
cause if it should prove hardy, it must be
a deeply interesting as well as an attractive
plant. We are told in Curtis' "Magazine" that
the plant is for hardy greenhouse, but without
egotism we may claim to know a little more now-
adays as to the capabilities of old species like the
present. Some of the interest about the plant
comes in when we study the old name for it of
Clusius, which, however unfitting from the present-
day botanist's point of view, was significant and
expressive to a degree, namely, Myrto-Cistus
Penmei, from "the leaves being somewhat like
those of the Myrtle and a gummy substance ex-
uding from the plant as in the Gum Cistus." The
distinctive beauty of the shrub is seen in the erect
and rigid stems of a ruddy colour, which are also,
with the yellowish green, lobed, and wrinkled
leaves, of a rigid texture, freely beset with warty
developments. For the size of the plant, the
flowers are large and gay, and altogether a two or
three-year-old specimen cannot fail to win admira-
tion. It is very easily propagated by cuttings of
the new wood in summer out of doors or at any
time in the greenhouse. J. Wood.

Woodvilh, KirkataU.

Lilium Browni.— Judging by the splendid
bulbs of this Lily sent here by some of the Dutch
cultivators, it does well in Holland, and when in
flower is certainly very beautiful. The illustra-
tion of the typical L. Browni (accompanying the

188

THE GARDEN

[March 16, 18S5.

coloured plate of the variety Ieucanthum) on page
07 of The Garden is a very truthful representa-
tion of this beautiful Lily, the distinct, long
arching foliage being well shown. The variety
odorum mentioned on the same page is, as a
garden plant, inferior to the type, and it is also
far more delicate in constitution. This is fre-
quently offered for sale in the London auction
rooms during the winter under the name of
Lilium japonicum Colchesteri, and fine bulbs can
at times be obtained at a moderate rate. Very
large-sized bulbs from 11 inches to 13 inches in
diameter are, I see, offered in the catalogue of one
of our large importers, and such as these should
yield a good display of bloom. The typical
Lilium Browni does well in pots, though it is not
often seen so treated. When so grown and re-
quired for the greenhouse or conservatory it
should be kept out-of-doors till the flowers are on
the point of expanding, as in a sunny spot the
chocolate-tinted exterior is much more pronounced
than if it is grown altogether under glass. An
especially striking feature of this Lily is the
marked contrast between the ivory white of the
interior and the deep chocolate-tinted outside of
the flower.— H. P.

while last, but by no means least, Tellimagrandi-
flora rubia provides the ruddiest masses in the
garden. T. Smith.

Xr wry.

Trees and Shrubs.

SPIR.EA ARI^EFOLIA.

The most graceful of all the Spirceas— S. ariae-
folia — is herein depicted, the illustration show-
ing well not only its elegant habit, but also
how free -flowering a thriving specimen is.
It is one of the largest-growing members of
the genus, for it will reach a height of 10
feet to 12 feet, and even more, while the
plume like panicles of creamy white blossoms
are at their best, as a rule, towards the
latter part of June and in July. As an

FOLIAGE PLANTS IN WINTER ON THE

ROCKERY, &c.
The articles recently published in The Garden
on this subject are most interesting, and it would
be quite possible, with the wealth of material we
have, to make a most interesting winter garden j
alone. I have noted the following as desirable for
that purpose : Andromeda tetragona is distinct
in its vivid green ; A. polifolia, A. p. major and
A. p. minor are charming in their degrees of
bronziness, the latter particularly so ; A. caly-
culata, of taller growth, is very distinct ; while
A. Mariana still retains many of its richly-coloured
leaves. These standing, as they recently did,
above the snow had a very quaint appearance.
A. racemosa retains most of its leaves, and they
are almost purple. Azalea procumbens is a com-
pact mass of reddish bronze, while Thymus
serpyllum coccineus is of even a deeper colour.
Frankenia Irevis is the deepest green thing in the
garden ; this is a most excellent carpeting plant.
Galax aphylla is beautiful in its various shades of
green to red ; while G. a. macrophylla, with much
larger leaves, scarcely changes from green at all.
Aubiietia purpurea aurea variegata, rich in its
yellow margining, is very showy, and as many of
its shoots are often entirely yellow, it looks in the
distance like a plant in flower. The old and
not now often seen A. p. albo-variegata is also a
very good plant. A good, but much smaller
thing is A anti-Libani marmorata. In this the tiny
crowded leaves are entirety marbled with white.
Erica carnea is already a mass of rosy buds, while
Alyssum alpestre forms closely creeping masses
of silver. Gaultheria procumbens is well known
and excellent in its glossy greenness ; while G.
nummularia is of quite another type of growth ;
it forms thick masses of rather dull green leaves
and russetty stems, with here and there leaves
of a bronzy tint. Hepatica acutiloba has beau-
tifully marbled leaves, emite different to those of
H. triloba; they are also more prostrate in habit.
In damp places Helonias bullata is most distinct,
rich clumps of luxuriant green changing to bronzy
red. Ledum latifolium compactum is a mass of old
bronze. Megasea Crcesus is the only one not
badly hurt by the frost, while it is the smallest of
them all, the leaves not much more than 3 inches
across and rich bronze and red. The two Aciphy lias,
Colensoi and Lyalli, are very distinct, the former
vivid green and the latter a curious rusty grey.
Berberis buxifolia nana is a good and distinct
shrub. The various Heaths are a power in them-
selves. Menziesia polifolia is good, and the dis-
tinction in colour between the white and the
purple kinds is very marked. M. empetrifolia is
very distinct. Cassinia fulvida.'not hurt in the
least by the cold, is beautiful in its golden sheen ;

S}>ii-,'<i q,rio>folia. Enaraeed for The Garden from a photogrcup},
sent by t'lte Rev. IT". J. Gemtrd, The Rectory, Rathangan, Co
Kilddre, Ireland.

made showed how much it enjoyed a dry summer.
It has been growing here unprotected for many
years, planted on a mound and allowed to grow at
will between and over rock boulders. During the
summer of 1893 it made growths 12 feet long,
much longer than usual, showing how much it
enjoyed a dry season and situation. — W. O. , Fota.

Forsythias under glass. — The two For-
sythias, F. suspensa and F. viridissima, were
grown in our gardens for many years before ad-
vantage was taken of their naturally early flower-
ing qualities to furnish the greenhouse. They
both readily lend themselves to gentle forcing,
and in the greenhouse are very beautiful before
winter has left us. Of the two I prefer F. sus-
pensa, which is naturally of a loose, rambling
style of growth — in fact almost a climber, while
F. viridissima forms a sturdy - growing free -
branched bush. If a plant of F. suspensa be
secured to a stick and the slender flexible
branches allowed to dispose themselves at will, it
forms a really graceful specimen, and when all
these drooping shoots arestudded
with yellow blossoms they have
the appearance of a shower of
gold. F. viridissima is under the
same treatment very pretty, but
it is wanting in the grace and
elegance of the other. There are
few of our hardy shrubs that can
advantageously be employed for
so many distinct purposes as For-
sythia suspensa, for, as above
noted, itforces well ; then, planted
in the open ground and allowed
to grow at will, it is very attrac-
tive, while for furnishing a wall
it is unsurpassed among deci-
duous subjects. Next, owing to
its thorough hardiness, it can be
used for covering a fence or any
similar purpose where anything
at all tender would not stand, for
an open fence, owing to the
draught through it, does not
yield anything like the same
amount of protection as a wall.
F. suspensa is very much given
to root at the tips of the branches
like a Bramble, so that in the
case of a plant standing in the
open ground under conelitions
favourable to the production of
roots, a colony of young plants
will in time be formed all around
it.— T.

The Maiden-hair Tree. —
Salisburia adiantifolia, certainly
a more euphonius name than
Ginkgo biloba, although intro-
duced into this country so far
back as 1740, does not seem to
have found much favour with
planters, a rather remarkable
circumstance when we consider that it is an
absolutely unique tree. Many exotics resemble in

isolated specimen it is seen to very great

advantage, and just standing out prominently -

from other shrubs, which serve to form a back- foliage either a fellow foreigner from some other

j ,, ' v i.-c i ■ t„_ ii,„„ country, and in some instances our own native

ground, here 1S no more beautiful picture than ^ ■ fc be gai(J of tfae Saligburia.

IS furnished by this Spirrea. It is a native of A1?Q .fc be claimed in its favour that it is
North-west America, and was introduced into , al, yasbeautiful . TheUmbrellaPineforinstance,

this country in 1827. Though so long known also a Japanese tree, is very distinct, but it can

under the name of S. ariiefolia, it is now by hardly be pronounced a beautiful tree. It may, I

the botanical authorities named S. discolor, think, be safely asserted of the Salisburia that it

In any selection of the best Spirasas this is ud- is admirably adapted for any site where a deciduous

doubtedly entitled to a foremost place. Though tree of average size is required. It may with

its height is as above stated, it will flower well , advantage find a place in any ornamental planting

long before it attains t^ese dimensions.

T.

and should be assigned a prominent position.
Attention has been directed to the fact that it is
a fine autumn tree, the decaying foliage very clear
and pronounced in tint, and it may also be noted
that the foliage is retained a considerable time,
as many exotic trees, if a sharp early frost
comes, are often completely stripped in twenty-
four hours. The Maiden-hair Tree has the
reputation of being of very slow growth for many

Rubus ftustralis. — This has lately been
brought before the notice of your readers, and
rightly too, as it is such a distinct Bramble that it
attracts the notice of all who see it. I should
hardly have troubled you to say more in its favour
than has been said, but 1893 being such a dry year
at this place and the unusual growth this shrub years in its early stage?, a fact 1 am not able to

March 16, 1895 J

THE GARDEN.

189

personally verify, only having come in contact with
established trees. Perhaps any reader who has
planted it will kindly give his experience. The
specimen here either received a severe check, or
had its leader crippled comparatively early in its
career. It runs up to a height of 12 feet, with a
bole whose diameter does not lessen greatly from
the 18 inches measured close to the ground. At
this height, however, the thick bole comes
abruptly to an end, and half a dozen leaders or
perpendicular branches spring from it which form
the head of the tree. The height is 38 feet. In
general appearance the tree reminds me very much
of one of the grand old standard Pears to be
found occasionally in south country orchards, save
that, never having been touched by knife or saw,
there is a density of small growth in the Salisburia
that is lacking in the Pears. — E. Bcrrell,
Claremont.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
March 12.
The meeting on Tuesday last in the Drill Hall
afforded a most singular contrast to that of the
previous gathering. On all sides there was a
marked increase, notably amongst Orchids, which
were by far the most numerous of the exhibits, it
being, as it were, a field day for the early -flower-
ing Dendrobes, of which some of the best known
kinds were staged, both of hybrids and species.
To one of the former a first-class certificate was
deservedly awarded. In Dendrobium Apollo we
have a remarkably fine hybrid of the first rank.
Quite in contrast as it were, another and similar
award was made to Sophronitis grandiflora, an
Orchid that has for many years been a general
favourite, and no award ever made was more
deservedly given ; the plant itself was a splendid
example of successful cultivation, and for that
alone was worthy of note. Another and old
favourite was present in Dendrochilum gluma-
ceum (syn., Platyclinis glumacea), a most pro-
fusely flowered specimen. Before the floral com-
mittee came several good exhibits, notably that
of the new China Rose Duke of York, another
Waltham seedling which bids fair to be a most
valuable decorative pot Rose both for late autumn
and early spring. The plants in question were well
flowered, the foliage of medium size and the growth
dwarf. Several well-flowered plants of Camellias
were also contributed, likewise a choice selection
of cut blooms. Ha;manthus Kalbreyeri was shown
in fine form, proving its utility as an early-flower-
ing bulbous plant of showy character. Of early
Daffodils, forced, of course, but none the less wel-
come, there was a good display, and the best forms
of the Snowdrops were to be seen in good character.
Thedelightfully fragrant Boroniamegastigmamade
its first appearance. Some few decorative plants
of general character were likewise staged. At
this Beacon it could not be expected that any
great number of exhibits would come before the
fruit committee, but a considerable amount of
interest was evinced in a new Strawberry now
shown for the first time, one that bids fair to
eclipse all other sorts for early forcing both for
private consumption and the market also. The
fruits are of large size and of good flavour for the
season, the growth dwarf and compact, and the
cropping qualities excellent. An exhibit of Figs
from Syon House proved the value of the variety
(St. John) for early forcing, the fruits in question
having been part of a very heavj- crop from a pot
plant.

Orchid Committee.
First-class certificates were awarded to —
Sophronitis grandiflora, of which quite a
unique plant was shown bearing some five dozen
or more of its showy flowers, these being of bril-
liant colour and large in size. This large healthy
mass was growing in a shallow pan. It was
first introduced from the Organ Mountains, of

Brazil, in 1837. From Sir Trevor Lawrence's col-
lection.

Dendrobium Apollo grandiflorfm (D. nobile
pulcherrimum X D. Ainsworthisplendidissimum).
— A remarkably fine hybrid raised between two very
superior varieties, with flowers as large as in D.
nobile nobilius, but more expanded, the sepals
and petals being of a deep vinous purple, shading
off at the base, the lip tipped with the same
bright tint, with a large maroon-purple blotch
broadly margined with white, and fully \k inches
in width, the growth very robust and free. From
Mr. James Cypher, Cheltenham.

Awards of merit were voted to —

Dendrobium eoosmum virginale. — A charming
hybrid of delicate beauty raised between D. no-
bile intermedium and D. endocharis, the latter
itself being also a hybrid. The sepals and petals
are of a delicate pure white, the lip somewhat
elongated, ground colour white with a soft purple
blotch, the growth dwarf and compact. From
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

L^lio - Cattleya Myra (Lselia flava X C.
Triana?). — A very distinct and beautiful hybrid,
having the habit in a large measure of L. flava
with the flowers of intermediate size, the sepals
and petals of the palest primrose with the label-
lum of a pale yellow, deeper at the base. In its
colour this hybrid stands by itself, having none of
the brilliant tints of C. Triana;, whilst that of L.
flava is greatly subdued. From Messrs. J. Veitch
and Sons.

Phaio-Calanthe irrorAta rosea (Calanthe
vestita gigantea x Phaius grandifolius). — A hy-
biid in which the vigour displayed by both of its
parents has been greatly reduced, resulting in
quite a dwarf growth, but still retaining the cha-
racteristics of the latter, the spike also being
erect, but with flowers of the form of those of the
Calanthe; colour a soft rosy pink, very distinct.
From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

Cvi'Kii'EiurM Fowlerianum (C. Harrisianuni
superbum x C. bellatulum). — An extra fine hy-
brid with broad petals beautifully marked, the
dorsal sepal being large and, like the petals, of
good form. The lip takes after C. bellatulum,
but is larger, the colouring throughout dark
claret on a lighter ground, the dwarf growth of
C. bellatulum having given place to the freedom
and vigour of C. Harrisianum. From Messrs.
Sander and Co.

Dendrobium Cassiope Ashworthi (D. nobile
albiflorum x ]). japonicum). — A very pleasing and
distinct form, with pure white wavy sepals and
petals. The lip, which is elongated and some-
what narrow, has a pale purple blotch near the
throat on a light ground ; a choice hybrid. From
Mr. E. Ashworth, Harefield Hall, Cheshire.

Cattleya Percivaliana magnifica. — One of
the very finest forms of this beautiful winter-
flowering species, the labellum unusually broad
and finely fringed, crimson-purple in colour,
deeper at the base, the sepals and petals showing
deeper tints also. From Mr. F. Hardy, Ashton-
on-Mersey.

Messrs. Sander and Co. had a choice group with
a profusion of flower, prominent amongst which
was a trio of hybrid Phaiuses, each distinctandvery
beautiful. In all instances P. tuberculosus was
one of the parents, but its somewhat delicate con-
stitution had disappeared under the influence of
the other parent in each instance. Phaius Cook-
soni (named after its raiser) is from P. Wallichi
and P. tuberculosus, having flowers of a dark
terra-cotta pink, with a richly-marked lip. P.
Martha; (P. Blumei x P. tuberculosus) has the
lightest-coloured flowers, a soft, pale terra-cotta
shade with a large lip, finely fringed and veined ;
and P. amabilis (P. grandifolius x P. tuberculosus)
is intermediate in colour between the two former,
with flowers of large size, the lip being especially
handsome in its markings. The last two are both
hybrids of the firm's own raising. In the same
exhibit were Maxillaria sanguinea, with grass-like
growth, having the dark flowers nestling near the
small bulbs ; Pescatorea Lehmanni, with one
good bloom ; Dendrobium O'Brienianum, a singu-
lar looking species ; Vanda teres alba, a choice

form bearing three fine blooms, one particularly
large ; Dendrobium nobile murrhinianum, a beau-
tiful form, with transparent flowers flushed with
the palest purple ; D. nobile albiflorum, a pure
white variety with dark maroon blotch on
the lip, the purple tints being absent ; D.
nobile nobilius, still the finest variety, with very
large richly coloured flowers ; D. Dominianum,
one of the oldest hybrids, showing D. Linaw-
ianum and D. nobile in its parentage. D. nobile,
a very fine form, with flowers of the shape of
those of D. Wardianum, but with the colouring
of D. nobile ; D. Leechianum, a near ally to, but
distinct from D. Ainsworthi, being the result of
the same cross, and D. Ainsworthi were also shown.
La?lia Oweniana, with creamy white sepals and
petals, also lip, save a deep violet-purple margin ;
Ccelogyne Sanderiana, a beautiful dwarf species ;
Lycaste Skinned, of rich colour ; Cattleya Triame
virginalis, a charming pure white form of great
beauty, and bearing large, massive flowers ; Cy-
pripedium miniatum, distinct in its large dorsal
sepal, with broad margin of pure white ; Cattleya
albanensissuperba, a species of distinct character ;
C. Schilleriana, one of the finest dwarf species,
with broad lip veined with lich velvet-purple,
quite in contrast to the bronzy copper-coloured
sepals and petals ; Cypripedium Crossianum
aureum, a golden form ; C. Youngianum and its
form superbum, both fine hybrids, notably the
latter, with its handsome drooping sepals, were
also included (award silver Flora medal).

Messrs. B. S. Williams and Son had an attrac-
tive group, prominent amongst which were several
finely-flowered plants of Cu-logyne cristata alba
with long spikes of bloom. Other good things
included the old, but beautiful Cymbidium Devon-
ianum ; Lycaste fulvescens, well flowered, some-
what in the way of L. lanipes ; Cypripedium
Boxalli atratum, beyond doubt the best form, the
dark spots, notably in the dorsal sepal, being the
distinctive feature. C. Chamberlainianum was
shown here in vigorous growth, with richer-
coloured flowers than usual. C. Morgania', with
two spikes bearing three fine blooms on each,
stood out prominently. C. Williamsi, one of the
older hybrids, with Dendrobium Wardianum and
Angntcum citratum, were also included (award
silver Banksian medal). Sir Trevor Lawrence
showed a most interesting group, comprising fine
forms of Calanthe Regnieri, as Stevensi and San-
deriana, both beautiful and distinct. Dendrobium
nobile murrhinianum was also shown here, also a
singular-looking Orchid, Ornithodium Lawrence-
anum, of scandent growth and with Maxillaria-
like flowers. Cypripedium Lawrebell, a fine dark
hybrid ; Epiphronitis Veitchi, a choice hybrid ;
Epidendrum Endresio-Wallisi, another well-known
Veitchian hybrid ; Masdevallia Fraseri, dark crim-
son, with darker veins ; Sophronitis grandiflora,
already alluded to ; Cochlioda vulcanica grandi-
flora, intensely dark in colour ; Spathoglottis
Lobbi, pale yellow, most beautiful ; Eulophiella
Elizabeths;, bearing one spike ; Pleurothallis
Roezli, with blackish-looking flowers, singular
and distinct ; Phaius Cooksoni, a good example,
and Dendrobium melanodiscus, were also shown
(silver Banksian med-al). Mr. E. Ashworth showed
five well-flowered Dendrobiums, 1). splendidissi-
mum grandiflorum being extra fine, with growths
fully 4 feet in length, bearing unusually large
flowers ; D. Linawianum, profusely flowered and
of good colour ; D. Cassiope (Ashworth's var. ),
already noted, and D. Findleyanum album, a
pure white form with golden blotch on the lip
(silver Banksian medal).

Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons showed several of
their hybrid Orchids, amongst which was the
beautiful Chysis Chelsoni, rich in colour and
very distinct, the plant bearing a sturdy spike.
Cymbidium eburneo-Lowianum was again shown
and in very fine condition, having as many as six
flowers to the spike and these of extra size. Den-
drobium Editha- (D. nobile nobilius x D. au-
reum) is a hybrid that partakes somewhat of D.
splendidissimum, but has a deeper tint in its
flowers. D. Cybele nobilius (D. nobile-nobilius X
D. Findleyanum) has the colour of the former

190

THE GARDEN".

March 10, 1895.

parent in the sepals and petals with the form of
the hitter, more particularly in the lip, which has
a dark blotch. D. Ainsworthi intertextum is a
form with pale creamy white sepals and petals
the dark spot on the lip being surrounded with
pale sulphur. D. splendidissimum Leeanum was
also shown, and likewise Epidendrum Endresio-
Wallisi, with Cypripedium Ianthe, a hybrid show-
ing traces of C. villosum and C. Harrisianum. C.
fc'edeni candidulum was unusually fine and pure in
colour, bearing several large blooms. C. Lathami-
anum completed this exhibit, it bearing fine
flowers (silver Banksian medal). Messrs. Low and
Co. had an effective group consisting of Dendro-
bium splendidissimum and Odontoglossum Ed-
wardi, with several lovely examples of 0.
Rcezli and O. Roezli album, in the culture
of which this firm excels. The plants in question
bore very fine flowers. Cypripedium Chamber-
lainianum was also included, also C. Wm. Lloyd,
a dark hybrid of C. bellatulum character. There
was also a large plant of Oncidium macranthum
Lowi bearing a number of flowers, as well as Ladia
harpophylla and Dendrobium Barberianum with
Cattleya Triana' (silver Banksian medal).

Of other and smaller exhibits the following are
the chief: From Mr. Hamar Bass, M. P., came
three well-flowered healthy plants of Eulophiella
Elizabethan, bearing fine spikes of bloom, pearly-
white and of wax-like substance, with a tint of
rosy-purple on the reverse of the petals, more
pronounced on the flower-stems. There were as
many as eighteen flowers and buds on the spike
in one instance, half of which were expanded, the
three plants bearing four spikes. Mr. Cypher
had Dendrobium Ainsworthi, Cypher's var. (D.
nobile elegansxD. aureum), with much larger
blooms than in the original hybiid, these being
of a deeper tint, with a very robust growth.
From Baron Schm-der's collection came a grand
spike of Odontoglossum crispum nobilius, a
very superior and richly marked form. O.
luteo-purpureum and O. Andersonianum were
both staged in fine condition, one variety of the
latter being a superb form. Dendrobium nobile
Ballantinianum, a very choice and distinct form,
with other good things was also included. Mr.
Cobb showed Dendrobium Schraderianum (Dul-
cote var. ) with bright purple flowers ; also Phaius
Cooksoni, bearing a very robust spike of nine
flowers and buds.

Sir F. Wigan showed a grand specimen of
Platyclinis glumacea with several dozen of grace-
ful drooping spikes of its small, but fragrant
blossoms — a fine cultural example ; also a hybrid
Cypripedium of distinct features. From Mr. In-
gram, Elstead House, Godalming, came Cypripe-
dium Refulgence (C. Curtisi x C. hirsutissimum),
which showed the preponderating influence of
the latter parent; and from Mr. J. Gurney-
Fowler came some very superior forms of Cat-
tleya Triana', notably a 'dark variety with a rich
velvety crimson lip. Mr. Hollington, Forty Hill,
Enfield, showed one of his hybrid Cypripediums
named Ruth Ayling, a ero*s between C. ni-
veum and C. Argus. Mr. Thomas Staffer had
Dendrobium splendidissimum Leeanum in good
condition, also cut blooms very fine in colour of D.
nobile nobilius, as well as Cypripedium Phiobe (C.
k-evigatum X C. bellatulum), the latter parent be-
ing most en evidence, and another very dark hy-
brid called C. atrorubens bearing a twin-flowered
spike. Mr. Craven, Ashlea, Ashton-on-Mersey,
had a very fine example of Dendrobium Ward ianum
albiflorum of extra vigour, one bulb being at least
5 feet long and well flowered. Mr. Fred.
Hardy showed Cymbidium eburneo-Lowianum
giganteum, a markedly superior form of this
unique hybrid, showing also great vigour of
growth. D. splendidissimum Leeanum was also
shown here, also another hybrid Dendrobe between
D. nobile and D. Findleyanum, showing much of
the latter. Two good examples of Odonto-
glossums were also included, each with a long
spike. From Mr. Forster Alcock came Cypripe-
dium Harrisianum, Brassia Martiana, and Den-
drobium undulatum. A small group was staged by
Mr. M Arthur, of Maida Vale, composed of Dendro-

biums, Cypripediums and Odontoglossums in sea-
son. Mr. Lucas, Warnham Court, had very fine and
long spikes of Dendrobium undulatum, a beautiful
species with flowers of old gold colour. To this a
botanical certificate was awarded, it being also
included in Mr. Forster Alcock's exhibit. Mr.
Lucas also received the same award for Cu-logyne
sparsa, a small-growing, but very pretty species in
thewayof, but dwarfer than C. ocellata. Cochlioda
vulcanica (Warnham Court var.) was represented
by a healthy plant bearing two spikes of large,
deeply-coloured blossoms. Mr. Burton, Highfield,
Wilmslow, sent a very fine spike of Fhaius tuber-
culosa with five large blooms.

Floral Committee.

Awards of merit were given to the following : —

Amaryllis Prince ED\\ARD.--This is a very
tine kind, having a bold, well-formed flower of a
deep crimson colour, shading to dark red in
the throat. The green shading in the throat of
the flower, which is more or less prominent in
most varieties, was not visible. Exhibited by
Messrs. Veitch and Sons.

Amaryllis Mrs. Montefiore. — This has an
immense flower of fine form, the colour white,
with slight feathered shadings of pale red down
the centres of the petals. This also came from
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

Violet Princess Beatrice. — This handsome
Violet is evidently possessed of great vigour, the
flower large, well shaped, and borne upon a long
stout spike. The colour is of a rather light
shade. The scent did not appear to be very
powerful. Exhibited by Mr. G. Nobb, Royal
Gardens, Osborne.

Edcharis Stkyensi.— This, figured and de-
scribed in The Garden, August II, 1SP4, is very
free-flowering, some of the plants in the group
shown being merely single bulbs in small pots,
but carrying a noble spike of flowers. Exhibited
by Mr. P. Blair, The Gardens, Trentham.

Azalea Joijn Weathers. — This, one of the
Ghent vaiieties, has bold trusses of large flowers,
the colour a soft shade of rosy-pink and orange.
Exhibited by Mr. J. Fitt, Panshanger Gardens,
Herts.

Messrs. William Paul and Son, of Waltham
Cross, Herts, exhibited a group of Camellias in
pots, and Rose Duke of York also in pots. The
Camellias were medium sized, freely- flowered
specimens of most of the older kinds. They also
showed six boxes of cut Camellias, the flowers
fresh and fine in colour. A large basket of Cle-
matis indiviea lobata formed the centre of the
group, the plants perfect wreaths of bloom. A
silver-gilt Flora medal was awarded. Messrs.
Barr and Son had a group of cut Daffodils, but
there was no competition for the prizes offered for
this flower. In the group staged Emperor and
Empress were very fine, showing how admirably
they are adapted for pot culture ; whilst of
older kinds, rugilobusand Tenby among trumpets,
poeticus ornatus, Burbidgei and Cynosure of the
star-flowered kinds made an effective group with
Anemone fulgens as a margin. Messrs. Barr also
sent a handsome lot of ( Jalanthus Elwesi and its
variety unguiculatus, which has very long stems
and a fine flower. Iris reticulata and Scilla
bifolia flowering in pots were also shown (silver
Banksian medal). Iris reticulata Krelagei was
shown in magnificent form and in quantity by
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, the exhibit receiving
a silver Banksian medal. This variety is very dis-
tinct in colour from the type and a gem among
the early Irises. A group of miscellaneous plants
from Messrs. J. Peed and Sons, Norwood, con-
sisted mostly of greenhouse subjects such as
Cytisus, Ericas, Cinerarias, and plants in flower
of the fine white Lilac Marie Legraye and
Staphylea colchica. A silver Banksian medal was
awarded. Shortia galacifolia, exhibited by Mr.
Cornish, gardener to Lady Bowman, Joldwynds,
Dorking, was given a cultural commendation, the
specimen a magnificent one. Seedling blue Prim-
roses were also shown. Messrs. Veitch sent a
group of Amaryllis containing some noble kinds,
besides those to which awards were made,

especially notable being Elatior and Albrastus,
rich deep reds. A fine Violet named Victoria was
shown, by Mr. Jennings, Ascott Gardens, Leighton
Buzzard ; and Mr. G. Bolas, of Hopton Hall
Gardens, Wirksworth, sent Daffodils effectively
arranged among coloured Ivy leaves on a
board for table decoration. Messrs. Paul and Son,
Cheshunt, exhibited floweiing plants in pots of
the single Rose Carmine Pillar, which was figured
in The Garden, October 27, IS!)4. It is remark-
ably free-blooming, producing flowers from every
bud along the shoots. The large-flowered variety
of the Japanese Rosa multiflora (Polyantha) was
also sent. A new break in I he large-flowered race
of Cannas was shown by the same exhibitors, the
variety named Dr. Masters having yellow flowers,
with a feathered band of red down the centre of
the petals. Such varieties will hardly be as effec-
tive and distinct as the self-coloured kinds, of
which several cut spikes were shown. A vase of
large flowers of the common Arum Lily and a
twin-flowered spathe came from Mr. Fitt, Pans-
hanger Gardens, and 'cut flowers of Strelitzia
Reginaj, Aristolochia Westlandi, and Rhododen-
dron barbatum were sent by Mr. Moore, Botanic
Gardens, Glasnevin. Boronia megastigma, of
which a good basket came from Mr. B. S. Wil-
liams, is a sweet, quaintly coloured greenhouse
plant of the early spring. Its slender sprays are
admirable for cutting, lasting fresh for a long
time.

Fruit Committee.
A first-class certificate was awarded to —
Strawberry Stevens' Wonder. — This was re-
markably fine for so early in the season, gathered
fruit and also plants in fruit being shown. The
plants in (5-inch pots carried from fifteen to
twenty fruits in all stages. Some of the fruits, of
a pale red colour, are conical, others wedge-
shaped. The leaves are very small, similar to
those of V. H. de Thury, but the fruit is quite
distinct in colour and flavour and much larger.
This Strawberry was much admired. From Mr.
Stevens, Clayton Nursery, Hassocks.

Mr. G. Wythes sent from Syon Gardens St.
John's Fig gathered from plants in small pots.
This is a very useful variety for early forc-
ing, as it bears freely and the fruit is of good
flavour.

In the absence of the lecturer, the assistant
secretary read Mr. Collenette's paper on the
" Diseases of Tomatoes." In Guernsey no less
than 1500 persons are employed in the produc-
tion of Tomatoes, Grapes, and Melons. The
Tomato crop was the most important and was
grown in two ways, under glass with heat and
without. The Tomato houses were mostly 120
yards long and 30 feet wide, and in many cases
were not built in the best possible manner as re-
gards favourable conditions to growth. The
aspect was not always favourable, and the culture
of the plants was carried out under difficulties.
For instance, the soil was not nearly so good as in
Jersey, the soil of Guernsey being a yellow clay
and containing little plant food. In Guernsey
many growers suffered losses of from £100
to £200 in Tomatoes alone in one season.
The worst disease Guernsey growers had to con-
tend with was what they termed the sleep disease,
and the one most fatal to the plants. At first the
plants present a dull appearance, then droop.
After this there is a complete stoppage of growth,
the fruits formed are allowed to ripen, and
many growers reserve the best fruits for seed.
This he considered most unwise, as the disease
was propagated in this way. He had gone to
much trouble to test the growth of plants from
diseased parents. By using a strong microscope
he had traced the germs of disease in the seed.
He thought it most important not to save seed
from such plants, as it was impossible for plants
in any way attacked by bacteria to make free
growth in their early stages. To prevent this
disease he advised the use of pots, as the roots
could be better managed in this way. A most
troublesome pest was the eel-worm, which attacks
the fibrous roots, producing root galls. The best

Makch 1G, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

191

remedy he knew was an American one, viz , tho-
roughly freezing the soil before planting. In
Guernsey this could not be done, but it could in
England. They applied lime, sulphate of iron,
and seaweed. Yellow blight is also very trouble-
some, but can be got rid of by keeping the \ lanfs
drier with more air and withholding water. In
the case of a disease called black stripe he ad\isei
the removal of all affected plants. This he con-
sidered a local disease. He strongly advised
disease-resisting varieties, paying more attention
to pure soil and thus keeping clear of minor
diseases.

Mr. A. Dean thought Tomato plants were
kept too much confined; more air was neces-
sary and a humid atmosphere was harmful. Mr.
Douglas said he never had disease in his Tomato
houses. This he attributed to making the soil firm,
never using any artificial manures, and at all times
maintaining a dry atmosphere during growth.

THE UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT

AND PROVIDENT SOCIETY.

The 29th annual meeting of this society was held
on Monday last, Mr. Geo. Cordon (Hardeners'
Magazine) in the chair. The meeting was well
attended and great interest was evinced by the
members in the proceedings. The report of the
past year is of a most satisfactory character, en-
couraging both to the officers and every indi-
vidual member. Seventy - two new members
joined the society during the year, nineteen
lapsed, and six died. Since the close of the year,
however, there has been a most marked increase
in members (i.e., since January last). The mem-
bership now stands at 547. The sick pay has
been more than in the previous year, tll7 having
been disbursed to twenty-eight members. Some
of these have also received assistance from the
benevolent and convalescent funds. Each of
these funds is kept distinct and is worked in-
dependently. The amounts, as per ledger, due to
each deceased member have been paid to their
nominees. Subscriptions to the amount of
£821 odd have been paid into the benefit fund
during the past year exclusive of arrears.
The benevolent fund has been increased by £59,
the convalescent fund by £66, and the management
by £58, irrespective in each instance of the arrears
and of the interest of lapsed members to the
management fund. The honorary members' sub-
scriptions, including life members, amount to £05.
Dividends on investments have produced £267.
The entire receipts for the year — with the balance
in hands of treasurer at the previous audit — amount
to £1456, out of which £1(J00 has been invested in
Corporation and other trustees' stocks for the sum
of £1052, all these stocks being now at a premium.
The total disbursements in sickness, in death and
from the benevolent and convalescent funds — in-
cluding also the management expenses — have been
£267, which amount is itself covered by the in-
terest of invested moneys as nearly as possible,
leaving the balance in the hands of the treasurer.
This result of the year's working cannot but be
satisfactory, and it should result, a? the execu-
tive trust it will do, in a considerable ac-
cession of members. Some gardeners with
limited means are postponing the time of
their decision in this matter, but surely they
should seriously consider their position and in-
terests, resolving if possible to join at once, and
thus be able to provide for the rainy day in a more
efficient manner. Young gardeners are particu-
larly advised to become members, and thus in
early life lay up a good deposit balance to their
credit against sickness, infirmity, and old age.
Mr. (iordon, as chairman, pointed out all of these
benefits in the clearest and fullest manner possi-
ble, urging all the members present to do their
utmost to get additions to the numbers at every
opportunity. He also stated, after a thorough
investigation of the books of the society, how well
satisfied he was with the way in which the accounts
were kept. He also instanced comparisons which ;
had come under his own personal observation of

the benefits accruing to members of our large
mixed societies as contrasted with those offered
to members of the United, showing in a clear
and effective manner the advantages that will
accrue to a gardener who joins his own society.

The chairman at the close of the meeting was
thanked most unanimously for his services, as
were all the officers of the society. The special
general meeting was then called, when Mr. Gordon
again presided. This was to consider and sanction
the increase of sick pay from 10s. to 12s. on
the lower scale and from 16s. to 18s. on the higher
scale without any additional sum being paid in
contributions by the members. It was resolved
that these additional benefits be given subject to
the sanction of the Registrar of Friendly Societies,
to whom the matter must now be referred. The
proposal to make this increase was made by the
treasurer after the matter had been fully dis-
cussed in committee at several meetings during
the past year. This increase should be an addi-
tional inducement to those who still remain out-
side the benefits of the society for them to join at
once and thus reap the benefits offered.

MR. SAMUEL PARSONS ON" BEDDINCx

PLANTS.
Mr. Samuel Parsons, Junior, has an in-
teresting article in Sm'lmcr'x on this subject,
which deserves attention for the good sense
that is in it as well as certain other things
which deserve a few words. He defends the
system, but the illustrations of his paper do not
show a trace of true bedding-out, the beds
and masses being bold, varied and graceful,
and much aided by the picturesque effect of
plants in water in Union Square. In water,
plants taking to a great extent their own shape
and disposition give, us a beautiful effect.
Mr. Parsons calls bedding the "poor man's
system," and says the plants cost but a few
pence each ; but that is not the case. The
beautiful " poor man's garden " here is
generally a garden in which the plants cost
nothing, however beautiful many of them
are. Rut- to say that a system < f the plants
which he confesses die absolutely every
autumn is a " poor man's system " is surely
straining a point. "When we come to
arrange any flowers in artistic ways there is an
end to the question. Mr. Far;ons does not
take note of the fact that at first it was not s
cpuestion of the Palms or elegant Cannrc, but
of hard lines and flowers, which one has not
very far to travel to see yet in England. In
America, owing to the tine summer heat, fine-
leaved plants acquire great freedom of growth,
which helps the gardener very much ; but,
after all is said and done, and assuming that
plants treated artistically are all of the same
value, how about the stock dying in the
autumn 1 Is it not possible in such a climate
to have a great number of things that do not
perish in the autumn while keeping on to the
best of the flowers that live a summer only l
It certainly is in our country. It is all very
well to talk of putting out half a million of
bedding plants, but we should like to see
these supported by several millions of plants
that tray be allowed to remain a few years in
possession of their holdings, and so lessen a
bit the dreadful and ugly labour of planting
the garden when it should be in all the early
flush of its summer beauty. Mr. Parsons

does not say a word about the wonderful
results of bedding out obtained in the great
western cities, such as Chicago, of which we
see such unpleasant evidence in some Ameri-
can gardening papers; and not a word of the
Italian pastrycook who became a distinguished
gardener in Chicago and carried out in bedding
bis latest ideas of pastry. The real article
flourishes in Chicago — at least we have this
evidence in Mr. Falconer's paper and in others;
We should like to hear what the super-
intendent of the Central Park thinks of the
figure of the globe in crpet bedding built up
in the centre of scaffolding and wirework to
get a hold for the wretched plants doomed to
such degradation.

Notes of the Week.

Allium neapolitanum and Anemone fulgens
make an effective group in the greenhouse at Kew
and i-how the value of hardy things grown in this
way and brought into flower in advance of those
outside. They are more beautiful by far than
many of the ordinary occupants of greenhouses.

Rose Duke of York. — This, one of the latest
additions to the sweet, ever-blooming class of
Monthly Roses, was well shown on Tuesday by
Messrs. W. Paul and Son. Plants in pots were
bearing many flowers, which, although produced
at this sunless time, showed much of the charac-
teristic variation in colour peculiar to the kind.

Snowdrop Cassaba.— This will no doubt be-
come a very popular Snowdrop in gardens. At
Kew it is classed as a variety of Elwesi, but it is
very distinct in many ways, the fine large flowers
having stems of considerable length and of a de-
cidedly pale yellow colour. The leaves, too, are
long and broad. Established groups in their
second year show marked improvement as com-
pared with newly-collected bulbs.

Shortia galacifolia. — The very fine specimen
of this exhibited at the Drill Hall on Tuesday by
Mr. Cornish, gardener to Lady Bowman, Jold-
wynds, Dorking, attracted some attention. The
plant, growing in a wide shallow pot, was very
luxuriant and profusely flowered. It had about
forty spikes of bloom, many of them being twin-
flowered. In leafage as well this is a beautiful
plant. A coloured plate of it appeared in The
Garden of August 30, 1890.

Phillyrea Vilmoriniana. — This handsome
shrub is one of the few evergreens that have
passed through the recent severe winter without
being damaged. It has stood 22 of frost at
Exeter without showing the least sign of the con-
tinuous severe weather. The large deep green
leaves look as fresh as they did at midsummer,
while all around them the wholesale slaughter
wrought among other so-called hardy shrubs is
onlj' too painfully evident. — M.

Pentapterygium (Vaccinium) serpens. —
This Himalayan plant is now flowering at Kew.
Its shoots, which are several feet in length, rise
from a thick fleshy rootstock, and break into
several branches at their tips. They are like
those of the Pernettya, but the main stem is
leafless. The flowers, however, are produced in
great profusion down to nearly the base of the
plant. They hang singly and in pairs from under
the shoots, producing a graceful and brilliant
effect ; the colour a bright coral-red.

Snowdrops at Kew. — These are very pretty
now flowering in the Grass, as at Kew. This
way of adorning large areas of turf with the
earliest of spring bulbs will give our public parks
and gardens a new interest, and add greatly to
the delight of those who visit them. With bulbs
so cheap there is every inducement to plant them
liberally, and even if they have to be renewed at

192

THE GARDEN.

[Makcd in, 18S5.

times, the gain in beauty is immense. The beauty
of the flowers springing out of the fresh turf is
preserved to the end.

Olearia Haasti as a seaside shrub.— Many
of your readers have spoken well of this deservedly
popular shrub. The severe winter did not affect it
in the least, and over 20° of frost have not altered its
appearance. At Penzance, where a few months
ago furious gales raged with such violence that a
portion of the esplanade was washed away, and
the salt spray from Mount's Bay was carried
over the housetops and deluged the gardens,
Olearia Haasti was one of the few shrubs that
withstood the salt spray, and can therefore be
h'ghly recommended as a seaside plant. — M.

Primula veiticillata.— It is a pity that this
lovely Primula is not hardy outdoors, but as a
greenhouse plant it is decidedly pretty, coming
into flower early and lasting a considerable time.
There are some groups of it now in bloom in the
greenhouse at Kew. The pots each contain three
plants. Single plants in pots of the same size
will grow larger in leaf and throw up stout spikes
of bloom. Seedling plants with single crowns and
one flower-spike are always the best, and if the
pots they grow in are stood in pans and watered
from them there is no soiling of the leaves, which
add so much to the beauty of the plant. The
flowers are very numerous, of a clear yellow
colour, dispos3d gracefully in whorls. They are
also sweet-scented.

The Charles Collins f and. —The execu tivebeg
leave to tender their sincere thanks to those who have
so generously responded to their appeal for sub-
scriptions to the above fund, and to say that they
propose to close the latter on Wednesday, March
'20, after which immediate steps will be taken to
decide as to the most appropriate manner of
administering the same for the benefit of the
widow and children. In the meantime they would
feel exceedingly obliged if those who kindly
promised to contribute to the fund would be good
enough to remit the amount of their subscr'piion
to the honorary treasurer, Mr. George Gordon,
Endsleigh, Priory Park, Kew, or to the under-
signed, on or before March 20, in order that the
fund may be finally closed by that date. The
total amount received or promised up to date is
£62 19s. J. W. Sanders, honorary secretary, 57,
Cressingham Road, Lewisham.

Ccelogynes at Minchinhampton.— I do not
think that amongst the many species of Orchids
which are and will be in flower from now onward
till well into the early summer months there are
any which can surpass Cadogyne cristata and its
varieties ; certainly there are few which can equal
them as decorative plants. Mr. Wilkinson, the
gardener at Highlands, has for many years been
noted for the fine specimens he grows. This year
they are exceptionally good. I had the pleasure
of seeing them the other day when in the neigh-
bourhood. They were arranged on one side of
an intermediate Orchid house and presented a
sheet of snowy white. Amongst them were fine
specimens of the Chatsworth variety (true)
Lemoniana, a magnificent specimen, but not quite
out, and a distinct form with broad foliage, the
flowers large, pure white, with a soft yellow
throat and very broad petals. This plant is said
to be distinct from the Chatsworth variety and
much better. When in the bud state the outside
of the flower is quite white, while that of Lemon-
iana, cristata, &c, is brown.— T. A.

Phaius Blumei var. Bernaysi.— This is an
Orchid of exceptional interest and rarity, and it is
now represented by a fine plant bearing two
flower-spikes in the Orchid house at Kew. In
habit, foliage and structure of flower it has a
close affinity with the well-known P. grandifolius.
Indeed, P. Blumei as well as P. Wallichi and P.
bicolor are by some authorities looked upon as
forms of P. grandifolius. In colour of flower, how-
ever, no Orchid in this group has much resem-
blance to this variety Bernaysi, the entire flower
being of a soft, beautiful shade of creamy yellow in
front, with the exception of the apex of the lip,
which, like the back of the sepals and petals, is

almost pure white. The flower-spikes are 3 feet
high, backed by leaves as large as those of P.
grandifolius. It is, in my opinion, the most
beautiful of this section of Phaius, which in a
wild state is spread largely over the far East. P.
Blumei itself is found in Java, but the variety
under notice belongs to the Australasian region.
The particular plant at Kew came from Fiji, but
it has previously been collected in Queensland.
It is named in honour of Mr. Bernays, a promoter
of the Acclimatisation Society of that colony. — B.

Glass insurance against hail. — The Nur-
serymen, Market Gardeners, and Hailstorm Insur-
ance Corporation, Ltd., have issued their prospec-
tus. The corporation came into existence on
February 27 with a capital of £100,000. The
main feature of the corporation is that it will
be carried on for the mutual benefit of the trade,
the surplus profits being returned to the share-
holders by way of dividend. It seems a very
useful corporation with distinct aims, and it has
the support of some of the men most practically
interested in the trade. It is a very good idea,
and no doubt will succeed. The chairman of the
corporation is Mr. Harry J. Veitch, and the
list of names of directors comprises some of the
principal members of the trade. Mr. Alexander
James Monro is the general manager and secre-
tary pro tern., and the corporation has registered
offices at 1 and 2, King Street, Covent Garden,
W.C.

Notospartium Carmichaelias.— Some time
ago this beautiful pink Broom of New Zealand
was illustrated in The Garden from a photo-
graph sent by Messrs. Veitch, of Exeter, in
whose grounds it had bloomed abundantly. The
piesent severe winter has brought to light the
curious fact that this New Zealand species
(of whose hardiness great doubts were entertained
at first) is really hardier than our common native
Broom (Cytisus scoparius). Two handsome speci-
mens of the pink Broom planted in Exeter do not
show the slightest trace of the exceptionally se-
vere frost, while the shoots of the common Broom
are perfectly black, and many Laurels, Laurus-
tinus, Euonymus, and other -shrubs generally con-
sidered perfectly hardy are nipped so severely,
that in some instances not a single green leaf is
visible. This certainly proves the hardiness of
Notospartium Caimicbaeliaj, which no doubt will
soon become popular. — F. W. M.

The pink Broom of New Zealand is evi-
dently very hardy. It is quite untouched by a
frost that has blackened the common Broom and
cut the Furzs down to the ground. It is a grace-
ful and pretty thing as yet not very well known,
but the fact that it is so hardy is a great point in
its favour. — Sussex.

Strawberiy Stevens' Wonder. — At the

Clayton nurseries, Hassocks, Mr. J. Stevens is
growing this largely. It was shown at the R.H.S.
on Tuesday, and given a first-class certificate.
There is now to be seen a batch of 4000 plants in
flower anel fruit, the majority of them in the latter
state, and therefore affording ample evidence of
its worth. Whatever may be the ultimate result
of testing it in the open air beside the best kinds
now grown, there can be no doubt as to its value
for forcing. The long double rows of plants on
shelves extending the whole length of the houses,
with heavy clusters of ripe fruit hanging over the
edges of the pots, showed its value. There was
scarcely a bad plant to be seen throughout the
entire batch. This Strawberry has now been
grown by Mr. Stevens for about seven years, the
stock having been raised from one plant given to
him by a friend, who told him it was a seedling.
At first, whilst this kind was scarce, he grew La
Grosse Sucree as well in pots, but observing the
marked supeiiority of the seedling plant in free
setting and early ripening, the older sort was dis-
carded. A striking characteristic of this new kind
is the short-stalked, tufted, compact growth of
the leafage, a most desirable thing in a pot Straw-
berry. It fruits freely and sets well. Upon one
truss sixteen fruits were counted all swelling
away. A number of fruits weighing 1J ozs. each

had been already gathered and fruits of If, ozs.
each were abundant. The colour of the fruit is a
light red and the flesh is remarkably firm and
solid, so that the fruits travel well. The flavour,
too, was gcod, efpecially taking into consideration
the sunless time that has prevailed. The first
fruits were gathered on February 6, and up to the
time of my visit (March 2) over 90 lbs. of market-
able fruit had been gathered. Another distinctive
feature of the kind was a decided tendency to suc-
cessional blooming even upon plants that were
then carrying a heavy crop of ripe and ripening
fruit. Fully sixty per cent, of those in fruit were
sending up trusses of flowers which doubtless will
give a second crop sufficient in cjuantity to repay
the attention necessary to bring it to perfection

The weather in "West Herts. — The tem-
peratures have been variable, but on the whole
there has been a gradual rise in temperature
since the beginning of the month. On two days
during the past week the highest shade tempera-
ture was about r>0°, and on the 1 1th inst. it rose to
52°. On no night did the exposed thermometer
show more than 10° of frost. At 1 foot deep the
temperature of the ground stood at about the
freezing point until the 3rd inst., but since then it
has risen 7°. It now stands at 39°, or a degree
colder than the March average for the previous
nine years, and 43 colder than on the same date
last year. Rain or snow has fallen on eight days
this month, but to the total depth of only about
half an inch. A selected bush of the wild Hazel
first opened one of its fertile flowers on the 12th
inst. , which is a month later than its average date
for the previous four years. Crocus Imperati first
flowered in my garden on the 11th inst., or fifty-
one days later than in 1894.— E. M . , Berkhamsted.

RAINFALL

IN

1894.

Hakefield Park, Uxbridcie.

Number

of days on

Monti'.

Total depth.

Greatc

st fall iu

which "01

24 hours.

or more fell

Inches.

Depth

Tate

Jan.

265

•48

9

13

Feb.

189

•53

17

15

March

172

■52

14

10

April

170

•27

24

14

May

1-40

•28

29

10

June

2-04

•47

4

13

July

300

■83

10

18

Aug.

296

101

25

17

Sept.

1-92

•53

22

10

Oct.

l-'l

115

29

20

Nov.

480

1-28

14

16

Dec.

2-d6

75

14

13

Tot

al ... 30-35

109

— W. B

ATCHELOR.

Flowers from the Seilly Islands.— About
4J t ns of Seilly flowers were despatched from Penzance
lately for the London and midland markets. This is
only about a quarter of the quantity which was beiog
sent about the same time last j ear. — Western Morning
Neu-s.

Stocks for Vines. — Will any reader of The
Garden inform me what is the best stock to graft the
following Vines ou : Muscat Hamburgh, Madreslield
Couit, Gros Colman, and Gros (iuillaume ? Though

uch has been written about this question, I am not
quite sure which is the best stock for each kind. — R.
Katzer.

Erratum (" Supporting Hyacinth Spikes," p. 158).
— For "wire gauze" read " a wire gauge."

Names of plants. — Mrs. Towler.—U snea. bar-

bata. W. Andrews. — 2, Acacia longifolia; 3, Acacia

falcata. E. S. S — 1, 2, 3, all ordinary forms of

Dendrobium Wardianum j 4, ordinary form of Ccelogyne

cristata; 5, Dendrobium nobile. James Davidson.

— Masdevallia tiidactylites.

The Wild Garden : or, the Naturalisation and Natural
Grouping of Hard v Exotic Plants, unth a chapter on the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, uith wood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Panons revised and enlarged. 1 emy
Sro, limn clith. Price 1S«. ; veil Lound in half morecco, 18i
Through all lool sellers.

THE GARDEN.

193

No. 1218. SATURDAY, March 23, 1895. Vol. XLVII

"This Is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change It rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature."— SKoktipuJ.ru

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

GRAPES FAILING TO SET.

We frequently see instructions how to treat
Vines in flower to ensure a good set, and cor-
rect temperatures are given for the Vines during
such a ciitical period. Although such advice is
followed out, we sometimes fail to see even a
moderately good set, and the grower is puzzled
to account for his non- success, as he is perfectly
sure that his methods have been correct, as
proved by his own past experience and also by
the writings of other practical men. There can
be no question the instructions given are reli-
able, but there are local causes that are apt to
upset the most skilful efforts to secure a good
set, and which are accountable in a great
measure for the failure. If the roots are in an
unhealthy state or beyond the control of the cul-
tivator, the difficulty becomes greater, and no
skill on the grower's part can ensure a perfect
set. The only remedy is to wait until autumn
and to then bring the roots near the surface in a
new border. On some soils Vine roots may
travel at will for almost any distance without
any bad results, but such soils are somewhat
lare. Another cause of a bad set is mistaken
kindness on the grower's part. With a very
laudable desire to produce Grapes of extra-
ordinary merit, he gives strong applications of
manure in a liquid or solid form (it may, per-
haps, be natural or chemical manure, or both
together) just piioi to the bunches coming into
flower, thinking that he will assist the Vines by
a heavy dose of plant food to set the crop well.
No greater mistake could be made with manures
at that season, particularly if the borders are
inclined to be heavy, as immediately previous
to the bunches coming into bloom the new roots
just formed are very sensitive, and strong appli-
cations of plant food are very liable to burn or
injure the points or feeding ends of the roots,
thus defeating the aim of the grower, as an im-
perfect set is practically certain. Another factor
that is not always recognised is dry places in
the border. It may be that the soil near the hot-
water pipes is dry for a considerable depth, in
spite of apparent moistness through syringing
or damping down, but it stands to reason
that the continual heat from the pipes causes a
greater evaporation than what takes place further
away. Inequalities on the surface of the border
also will cause some spots to be much drier than
others ; consequently, root-action is not so
healthy and free as it should be. It will per-
haps be said that if a thorough soaking is given
when watering, the whole border would be
moistened uniformly by gravitation, no matter
how uneven the surface was ; but actual ex-
perience has proved the contrary. On several oc-
casions I have had to assist in or make alterations
in Vine and other borders under glass, and have
found some parts as dry as dust and others very
wet in the same border, although no difference
could be detected on the surface. In such in-
stances it has been astonishing that any Grapes
ever set at all. If moles or rats get burrowing
in the borders, channels are made by them,
through which the water runs, leaving portions
of the soil perfectly dry ; not only so, but they
will eat roots through that are in their way and
inflict injury on the Vines, causing a bad set,

weakness, or inferior Grapes. I had a strong
proof of this in our Black Alicante house three
years ago, as the moles got into one end when
the Vines had made a few inches of growth.
The end Vine in particular indicated distress
by growth ceasing and the leaves flagging by sun
heat, and before all the moles could be caught
sufficient damage had been done to produce a
poor set and smaller leaves than on other Vines
the roots of which had not been injured.

With the roots near the surface and in
a thoroughly healthy condition, and cultural
details correctly carried out, temperature has
not so much power to ensure a perfect set as
often stated, or rather it is unnecessary to
take so much pains to maintain it above a
fixed point. As an instance of that I may men-
tion that one year, through no fault, I could not
keep a night temperature of more than 45° in
the Muscat house all the time the Vines were
in bloom. The days were certainly bright and
favourable, yet in spite of the fall in tempera-
ture at night I had the best set Muscats 1 ever
had, most of the berries having four stones and
each bunch required liberal thinning. At the
same time I do not advise a low temperature.
rather the reverse ; the object is to have the
roots in the right state, for on that hinges
success. W. G. C.

Colour in Apples. — Generally we do not ex-
pect to see much colour upon fruit of Wellington.
I lately saw Eome fruits gathered from trees in
Mr. Perkins' garden at Portswood, Southampton,
which were, I may fay, most brilliantly coloured,
reminding one almost of Worcester Pearmain, so
bright was the skin. From the gardener, Mr.
Miles, I learnt that many trees of this Apple are
growing in standard form on grass and all succeed
capitally. Mr. Miles has been experimenting
upon several of the trees with a view to increasing
the colour of the fruit. Judging from the
specimens inspected, he has succeeded in a re-
markable degree. Fruit from trees of the same-
variety not treated in the fame manner is pale or
of the usual colour, which to me is an absolute
proof that the colouring of Apples is influenced by
the constituent portions of the soil in which the
roots subsist. At the same time I do not infer
that the soil is wholly the cause of such deep
colouring as may be obtained. In the present in-
stance, as in all others where good or highly coloured
Apples are obtained, the fruit is not hidden by
foliage caused by a thicket of branches. The trees
in question are twenty-six years old, trained and
managed at the present time as freely-grown
standards, but not closely pruned. Sulphate of
iron and soot are the chemical agents employed
with tuch satisfactory results. The sulphate of
iron was sprinkled upon the grass which is growing
underneath the trees freely during showery
weather when the fruit was about half its full size.
Soot is scattered over the surface several times
during the year in the same manner. To the in-
fluence of soot upon the roots cf the trees Mr.
Miles attaches much importance as a colouring
agent, and, from the specimens seen of the Apple
in question, with very good reason. Although the
Wellington succeeds so well in certain parts, it is
an utter failure in others. Here in our cold soil
a standard tree has not given a satisfactory crop
since it was planted fifteen years since, although
it has grown well. — E. M., Bishop's Waltham.

Rivers' Early Nectarine. — I was pleased to
see the note at page 111 on this new fruit and
trust that we have secured a Nectarine some three
or four weeks in advance of Lord Napier, as de-
scribed by " Wiltshire Gardener." In a month or
two this fruit will be proved, as doubtless many
fruit growers have their new stock in fruiting con-
dition this year. Those who force can see at a
glance how far the growth is in advance of Lord
Napier. I have the tree only on open walls. So
many very fine fruits have come frcm Messrs.
Rivers, that Rivers' Early Nectarine is likely to

be a special favourite for many years to come, and
will prove a rival to the well-known Loid Napier,
one of the best all-round Nectarines we have, good
both in the forcing house and on wails in the open ;
but that is of little consequence, as if it be superior
to that variety a great point is gained — there
will be less hard forcing and equally good
results. The grower quoted above describes the
new variety as a large flowered one and some-
what similar to Lord Napier, requiring care
in setting ; and I am of his opinion — that the
large-flowered varieties are not such free setters,
whether Peaches or Nectarines. So far I have
never found the least difficulty in setting Lord
Napier, but the reverse, as it sets too freely.
I expect when the new variety attains the same
strength as the older kind it will be equally free
setting. With me Lord Napier sets much better
than Elruge and is, I consider, superior in every
way. Eltuge, though it sets enough for a crop,
does not set so freely as the variety named. With
many new fruits a fair test cannot be expected
the first season, as the trees must get well esta-
blished. There is such a demand for stock that
time must be allowed for the trees to make suf-
ficient strength to mature the fruits. Early
flowering, I may remark, does not signify early
ripening. — W. M.

Peach and Nectarine trees dropping:
their blossom-buds.— This is a perennial com-
plaint made by both amateurs and gardeners, and
both are slow to admit that they have themselves
to blame for it. Out of doors blossom-buds and
blossoms are frequently so damaged by frosts
that they will drop off, let the gaulener do his
best. Skilful and persistent attention is of no
avail; nothing can stand against continued cold
winds, with the temperature below the freezing
point. Under glass and the houses well con-
structed, the buds should not drop before the
blossoms are developed nor after the blossoms de-
cay even when early forcing is necessary. The
causes are as follows : Imperfectly developed and
badly ripened wood, owing to the prematuredestruc-
tion of the leaves by red spider, aphis, or mildew,
aggravated by lack of heat after the fruit is
gathered. Peach and Nectarine trees want at-
tention until the leaves drop naturally. Another
frequent source of this evil is over-dry borders in
winter. Vine borders may be allowed to become
almost dust-dry in winter (although they ought
not) without any apparent evil resulting there-
from. Not so Peach borders. The roots of Vines
are apparently dormant in winter, but the roots
of Peach and Nectarine trees are always in an
active condition. The roots are always pushing
into the border, and if the soil where the points
of the roots are becomes dust-dry, the extremely
delicate cells at the growing points of the roots
are injured and destroyed by thousands, and
when required to act are incapable of actron.
The flower-buds develop rapidly in the atmo-
sphere of the forcing house and drop off owing
to want of support. These are the principal
reasons. It is not difficult to apply the remedy.—
J. Douglas.

Apple Loddington Seedling.-I agree with
all that " S. H." writes in favour of this old
favourite on page 11 1, as it is one of the most pro-
lific varieties that I know and succeeds admirably
on all and every form of tree. As the grafting
season is upon us again no mistake can be made
in sawing off the heads of young and unfruitful
trees, grafting again with a variety that is large
of eood appearance and a continuous bearer. Ut
late years some attention has been drawn to cor-
don trees trained by the sides of the walks about
lu inches or 18 inches from the soil. The number
of varieties that are a success on that system ot
training are very limited, but Loddington can
claim to be one of that limited number, never fail-
ing to crop.— W. G. C.

Apple Ccx's Orange Pippin.-" EM." is
fortunate in getting this superb Apple to crop
freely with him. Here in Herefordshire it is a.
partial success, in some places domg fairly well
and in others only a mile or two away refusmg to

194

THE GARDEN.

[Mar, ii 23, 1895.

fruit at all. I have a considerable number of
dwarf and other forms of trees of this variety.
Dwarf trees do very well, but standards every
year are infested with mildew arid cannot be said
to be profitable ; but as " E. M." remarks, where
this Apple does succeed well it ought to be
planted very extensively. No Apple that I have
grown is so much in demand, which always ex-
ceeds the supply. I think I have tasted Apples
from every clime in which they grow, but never
found any to equal a good English-grown Cox's
Orange Pippin. — W. G. C.

AMERICAN PEACHES.

TiiEremarksof " W. I." on the varieties of Ameri-
can Peaches are worthy of special attention by
Peach growers, and I think all who have tried
them over a series of years will feel disappointed
with them for forcing. When Early Alexander
and Waterloo first came out, I planted them for
furnishing ripe Peaches in May, and for a few
years they did remarkably well, casting com-
paratively few buds, and ripening up good crops
of handsome fruit that looked very tempting,
but was not so good in flavour as appearances
represented them to be. However, after the lapse
of a few years, bud-dropping became general on
all the American varieties, while European sorts
in the same house did not cast a bud, producing
excellent crops annually. This year I have rooted
out most of the former, and shall be very shy at
again trying American varieties. There are hosts
of causes mentioned from time to time as to what
produces such a serious defect as bud-dropping at
the time of starting Peach tree3, but in the varie-
ties under notice I feel certain the defect is con-
stitutional in our climate, or rather under our
conditions of forcing. Although American Peaches
succeed very well on walls outside, they will not
last long in a healthy and fruitful condition when
forced, according to my experience and observa-
tions in other gardens. It may be possible that
forced trees will not repeatedly stand the long
ssason which frequently lasts from November to
end of September, or say only two months' real
rest, as many gardeners commence to force at the
end of November, and if the trees are healthy and
free from insect foes, they rarely lose their foliage
bafore the end of September. I believe no trees are
at rest until all leaves are down ; in fact I question
if root action ceases until a later date. Many, if
not all our English Peaches will stand this long
season of growth or activity with a short period
of rest for years, and I think " W. I." has done a
great service in drawing attention to the serious
failings of American sorts, and he will also have
saved some intending planters a loss and dis-
appointment, as, after reading his excellent and
timely observations on young Peach trees, they
will in all probability not choose the unreliable
American varieties. W. G. C.

Pruning Peaches.— This work should now be
brought to a close. In favourable seasons it
would have been completed before this, but with
an arctic winter much work among hardy fruits
has been at a standstill. There is a great advan-
tage in such seasons as that we have just passed
through in paying ample attention to summer
stopping, as by so doing there is little pruning of
any kind— merely removal of naked branches and
giving the young or stronger wood space to
develop. The trees are later this season than I
have known them for years, and I should say
there is every prospect of a good crop, as though
the autumn was not favourable to ripening the
wood, where attention was paid to the removal of
old fruiting wood and useless shoots the new wood
presents a brown and firm appearance. After
pruning, I leave my trees unnailed as long as
possible, and tie the young fruiting wood out so
as to get as much exposure as possible. Once the
flowers show colour, it is not wise to delay the
nailing, at the same time giving the necessary
protection to the flowers. If planting of any kind
has been done since the break up of the late frost,

nailing should be left as late as possible, and the
surface soil well firmed by treading previous to
nailing. The surface soil of recently-planted
trees will be best left in a rough state for a time,
as such trees will require time to settle. Cover-
ing with a mulch at planting will cause the sur-
face soil to be much colder than the surrounding
soil. Ample mulchings later on will be beneficial
and check drought. To dry, light soils these
remarks do not apply as when there is a heavy clay
soil to deal with. In the case of light soils water-
ing may be necessary soon after planting, as the
recently dug ground will dry quickly at this
season. When renailing, it is best to remove all
old shreds, which harbour insect pests. (Jive
young shoots ample room to swell, as if the
wood is tightly pressed, it is the cause of gumming
and canker. In tying large branches with twine
allow room for expansion, and in securing the
main branches of young trees take care not to
crowd at the start, so as to leave room for young
wood.— S. H. B.

American blight.— This pest is often left un-
noticed at this season, with the result that it is
rampant in July, August and September. (Jrowth
being late this year there is still time to cope with
the disease. Cordon, bush and pyramid Apple
trees are more liable to American blight than
others, as it spreads so readily, the manner of
growth to a certain extent assisting in its de-
velopment. I find that soluble petroleum and
clay mixed to the consistency of paint and well
rubbed into the crevices of the trees attacked by
blight will do much good. I have also used a
brush dipped in the paraffin, but do not advise it
for young trees, as the spirit is soon exhausted,
whereas the paint remains good for some time and
the tender bark is not injured. I am aware paint-
ing is a tedious process, but if not attended to
there is total loss of trees, as by syringing in the
summer one cannot reach all parts of the trees.
— G.

THE GLASTONBURY PEAR.
The Glastonbury Pear and the Benedictine are the
same. Mr. Carter's inquiry recalls to me what
took place in the early sixties. The first public
notice of the Glastonbury Pear was taken by the
late Mr. Shirley Hibberd, who was one of the
judges at the mid-Somerset Horticultural Society.
At his request I sent him some fruit which Dr.
Hogg, I believe, exhibited at the R.H.S. meet-
ing. I was requested to give its history, which
appeared in the Journal of Horticulture. At
that time there was standing an old stunted Pear
tree in a hedge at the back of St. John's Church ;
it was looked upon as a wilding. The fruit was
small and indifferent, but of fine flavour. It would
have remained unknown had not Mr. Chapman
taken grafts or scions from the old tree and
grafted them on fresh stocks. I was then making
a collection of Pears and considered that particular
Pear out and out the best, Doyenne1 du Cornice then
not being known. I considered that through the
trade something profitable might be made of it.
Accordingly, I grew a great many trees for grafts
or scions, many of which I gave away to appli-
cants in this country and America, amongst them
the late Mr. T. Rivers and John Scott, of Merriott.
Some few years after I left my home and the Pear
trees. During that time some one in the trade
played a trick on the trade and public and had
my grafts, which gave me much annoyance, as I
had heard from Messrs. Rivers and Scott that
they had bought maiden trees of a Pear which had
been shown at the R.H.S. and certificated and
named Benedictine, a seedling raised at Glaston-
bury ; parentage, Huyshe's Prince Albert, I think,
and an old kind growing in the abbey enclosure,
and called after the order to which the monastery
belonged. Both Messrs. Rivers and Scott imme-
diately recognised the similarity of growth, &c,
in the old and new shoots, and resented the im-
position.

I have again turned my attention to fruit grow-
ing, being again settled at home. A few years
ago I sent some of the fruit to Mr. Iggulden,

who considered them first-class ; the misfortune
is it is of the same season as Doyenne du
Cornice. At the same time I sent some to Mr. G.
Bunyard and give you an extract from his letter.
November 11, 1890 : " The two Pears are large in
size and of the finest quality. We should like
some grafts, as Pears that bear in such a bad year
as this are worth propagation. We shall be
pleased to send you trees or grafts in exchange."
I have come to the conclusion the sort has its likes
and dislikes of soil, situation, &c. , and cannot be
relied upon as Doyenne du Cornice year after year
to be first-class. This last season especially with
me proves it. It is a certain cropper ; for the
past thirty years a tree horizontally trained on a
S. W. wall has never failed. Fruit thus grown will
average 10 ozs. to 12 ozs. , and some over. Shape
bluntly pyriform, skin peculiarly thin, cinnamon-
brown colour, deep rufous-brown suffusion when
exposed to the sun. It is at its best in the firtt
fortnight in November; texture slightly gritty,
according to the season. It is a juicy luscious Pear
with a peculiar subacid flavour. J. A. PoECH.

Apple Newton "Wonder— Sent out a few
years since as a late keeping variety, this Apple is sus-
taining its reputation and deserves to be more exten-
sively planted, as us constitution appears su'ted to
various kinds of soil. In shape the fruit is not unlike
that of Belle Pontoise, though rather more conical. —
E. M.

Grafting fruit trees. — Preparations must now
be made for grafting, and as it often occurs there
are varieties one may wish to grow and to get
fruit of in quantity in a short time, grafting is the
quickest way to secure a crop or to obtain better
varieties on old trees. Large regrafted trees may
be had in a bearing condition in three or four
years. Grafts for inserting later on should now
be got ready for the work. These should be cut
at once and heeled in in a shady cool corner.
Stocks should now be headed down, as at this date
there is no fear of dying or shrinkage of the bark
at the portion cut back. In the case of large or
old trees it is not necessary to cut back so severely
as is frequently practised. It is an easy matter to
insert a large number of grafts if the trees are not
cut too low and a quick growth is secured with a
better balanced head. In selecting grafts be care-
ful to obtain them from clean trees.

Protecting wall trees. — Apricots will claim
first attention. So much depends upon the situa-
tion or position of the trees, that a hard-and-fast
line cannot be observed. In my case I have wide
copings and, of course, less protection is neces-
Eary. Glass copings are most desirable and of
great utility where they can be fixed and readily
removed. Permanent copings I do not advise, as
during the greater part of the year the trees are
best exposed. With a permanent coping it is a
difficult matter to keep the foliage clear of red
spider. When the trees are given a warm cover-
ing like frigi domo I would advise care in its re-
moval in mild weather, as a close, sunless atmo-
sphere will bring the blooms down in shoals. The
bloom of many fruit trees, if in a dry state, will
stand severe frosts ; hence the value of a good
coping to throw off rains and keep the flowers dry.
Many growers use double or trebled fish-nets, hung
loosely over the trees, with a few supports to keep
them clear of the wall. Scrim canvas or tiffany
is also a good protector, as, being light, it does
not prevent air passing freely to the trees. When
a good protector is obliged to be put up merely
for bloom protection, it must be borne in mind the
best results are often secured by the most primi-
tive means. I have previously noted the import-
ance of air passing to the trees, as too heavy
coverings weaken the bloom, and it would be
better in such cases not to cover at all. Whatever
means is adopted to protect the bloom it is not
necessary for the covering to reach the bottom of
the trees. Curtains made with rings to run on
iron rods are more readily placed in position than
any other movable protection, but even then I
would advise a thin material for the curtains,
drawing them aside early in the day, and in mild
weather letting the trees be freely exposed. — W.

March 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

195

BULWICK.

The artistic garden, notwithstanding much
talk of gardening in these days, is one of the
rarest things to find — as rare as the great book
or the true picture. Rambling about North-
amptonshire last autumn, and delighted with
its beautiful old houses, many of them, un-
fortunately, as bare of flower gardening as a
deserted ship, it was pleasant to come to a
real garden at Bulwiok full of Carnations and
many open-air flowers arranged in various
pretty ways, even the house being full of large
basins of Carnations, some of them of one
self-coloured kind — a rare pleasure.

The flower garden was not one of those
places which astonish us by a showy display,
but modest at first sight as regards flower

kitchen garden thrown into 1-feet beds, with
little beaten alleys between, in which many
thousand Carnations were grown in simple
masses, almost as they would in the nursery.

One sees at once how much more beauty
and variety can be got in such ways
than where all the effort goes to help
one scheme for effect in front of one's
windows. Some kinds of Carnations were
grown very finely, and the finest single bed
of one kind of Carnation I ever saw
( K etton Rose) was here with many thou-
sand fresh buds and blossoms — a wondrous
sight, which the engraving attempts to show.

What is the secret of beauty in such a
garden, and what the lesson to be learnt
from it ! It is that no one way will give

Covered way, Bulwick.

gardening in immediate relation to the house.
That, however, was interesting, and had more
leaf and grace about it than are usual.

The chief charm of the place was not there,
however, but rather in various little side
gardens and long and pretty borders backed
with Holly and other hedges, and giving an
opportunity for growing a great number of
hardy flowers which bloom in the autumn.
These formed picture vistas, of which the
effect is very often better than a flower gar-
den of the usual type.

But, more than this, the excellent plan
was followed here by the late Lady Henry
Grosvenor of having what I do not think
any garden can be rich and satisfactory
without, namely, a " square " or reserve gar-
den in which things are grown well without
reference to effect. It was a large square of the

us a true garden which is likely to be beau-
tiful even for any length of time even in
the fine season. Any one way is so liable
to failure from the weather or other causes,
that the main source of success is to have
a good many ways with flowers, as there
were at Bulwick. Hardy plants in beds
and borders apatt from the flower garden
proper (that, too, being pretty) are the source
of the charms of this garden — the variety of
situation, variety of plants — but of handsome,
well-chosen and well-grown plants, and even
variety of level in the various gardens, such
as occurs at Bidwick, are all good aids.

The nearnessof an interesting kitchengarden
with sheltering walls is a source of beauty and
infinite variety, but this is just what does not
occur in every place, and many houses are
best without it, so that when we have |

found the secret we cannot always pursue the
same plan, though we may learn much. It
would be better for our flower gardens if
imitation were more difficult, as the greatest
pleasure of the garden only comes when the
best use is made of every scrap of the ground
and with plants and ways adapted to the spot
and to no other. The late Lady Henry
Grosvenor was not only a lover of good
gardening, but a real gardener herself, and
she was well supported by her excellent gar-
dener, Mr. Draniield.

I have to thank Miss Willmott, who knew
the garden well, for an excellent series of
photographs of the garden at Bulwick, some
of which have been engraved for The Garden
and are issued in this number. — W. R.

A correspondent sends us the following de-
tails of the garden in 1894 : —

Bulwick Park, Wansford, lately occupied by
Lord and Lady Henry Grosvenor, is a very old
mansion situated on the southern slope of a
valley in the midst of some very fine wooded
scenery in the county of Northamptonshire.
The house, built about the year 1602, is en-
tered by a pretty colonnade, which borders one
side of the garden, and has a very nice effect.
From the mansion to the flower garden is a
grey stone flag path about 12 feet wide, on
which stand during the summer mouths lar>„'e
tubs of Agapanthus umbellatus and grey stone
vases filled with scarlet Geraniums. The flower
garden is flanked on both sides by a shrubbery
with a margin left in front for herbaceous
plants, &c. , amongst which are conspicuous the
lnulas and Giant Hemlock (Heracleuin), growing
12 feet high. In the centre (looking from the
steps) of the garden is a broad sweep of Grass.
On either side, running the whole length of the
garden, are two long borders filled almost en-
tirely with herbaceous plants ; noticeable in
particular are the perennial Sunflowers, Delphi-
niums, Gypsophilas, Asters, Anthemis tinc-
toria and its white form, tufted Pansies, and
a great many Narcissi and early-flowering
bulbs, each coming into flower in its own season
and forming a very pleasing contrast, to the
massed beds of Geraniums, &c.

The garden could easily be divided into two,
and each would form a complete garden in it-
self, but in planting them the idea has been
to make the whole one complete harmonious
arrangement. Four of the corner beds are planted
with Clematis Jackmanni ; the other beds that
balance these are planted with white East
Lothian Stock and tuberous Begonias, the latter
on a groundwork of golden Thyme. This makes
a very pleasing effect. The four half-moon
shaped beds round the centre of the garden
are planted with Geraniums, each bed being
filled with a distinct coloured kind. Down the
centre of each side of the garden at equal
distances are three large round raised beds ; the
smallest in the centre of the three is filled with
Sweet Lavender, coming through it is Hya-
cinthus candicans. The first round beds, look-
ing from the steps, also the farthest (which is
the largest), are filled with mixed plants, the
idea being for yellow and purple to predominate
in the two farthest beds. This is effected by
using Anthemis tinctoria, Delphiniums and
Campanulas interspersed with Dactylis glome-
rata variegata, Zea, and the Giant Flax. Round
the outside is a row of grey Lavender Cotton ;
outside this again is a row of purple Chilian
Beet (these large beds are about 30 feet through).

The other two large beds (near the slope) are
filled with mixed plants ; conspicuous among

196

THE GARDEN

[Maech 23, 1895.

them is Eulalia, planted at intervals and rising
out from among the bright coloured Gaillardias,
Celosias, Anthemis, Nepetas, Scabious, Ac.
For giving a light aspect to a large bed there is no
more useful plant than this Eulalia, as its grey
foliage harmonises with any colour you choose to
place it with. Round these mixed plants were
planttd two rings, one silver Chilian Beet, and
outside this Mrs. Sinking Pink ; in the centre
of the bed are Dahlias, Nicotiana gigantea, ifcc.
Standing on the higher slope and viewing the
garden as a whole, you cannot help being struck
by the many natural advantages such a garden
possesses. Although simplicity itself stamps it
in every conceivable way as regards its con-
struction, still the beds, though simple in form,
are very bold and well balanced. Then there
is the green carpet of Grass surrounding each
bed, which of all things is the most becoming
in a flower garden. Leading from this garden
to the bowling green below are steps ; the
iron rails, which are old Dutch work, are
covered with Ivy, Ampelopsis, and climbing
Roses. The effect, especially in the autumn, is
very pretty. To the right of these steps, and
running the whole length of the wall, is a bor-
der of mixed Irises. On the left is another
border filled with herbaceous plants, the walls
here being covered with Tea Roses chiefly.

The Borders.
Retracing our steps, we start again from the
higher terrace by the mansion, and, turning to
the right, pass through a gateway, with its old
chains hanging on the iron gates, the gates
themselves seeming as though held open by
Gloire de Dijon Roses and other climbers. We
notice two beautiful pillars surmounted by two
high balls, covered with Ampelopsis. In front
of us and running the whole length of the
kitchen garden is a fine old herbaceous border,
about 150 yards long and 35 feet wide ; down the
centre is a green sward of Grass about 8 feet
wide ; on either side is the border backed up by
a Holly hedge, with standard Hollies rising at
intervals the whole length. This hedge is
clipped yearly, the top coming to a point, and
is kept about 7 feet high, so that it forms a
good solid background to the border. This
border and the beds in the flower garden were
designed by a lady, evidently a good gardener,
assisted by the late Rev. J. M. Berkeley, the
naturalist who was then vicar of King's Cliff,
a neighbouring village. These borders have
been kept very gay through the summer by the
use of annuals sown in front and among the
older clumps of perennials. Turning to the
left from the pillars (we pass an old, large ever-
green Oak, bound together by chains, and sup-
ported by huge forked branches), we approach
what is called the Rose garden ; this garden con-
sists of beds running parallel with each other,
and one across the bottom. This little garden
is surrounded on the north and east by an angle
of the garden wall, on the south by a Yew hedge
planted twenty years ago, clipped into a pyra-
midal shape. The bed at the lower end of the
garden is planted with Delphiniums (named
varieties) and Lilium testaceum clumps alter-
nately ; these form the back row ; in front of
these are planted named varieties of Pseonia
sinensis, in front of these, again, are clumps of
Spanish Iris and clumps of choice Narcissi.
As these bulbs die off, Lobelia cardinalis are
planted to follow on, the whole bed being edged
with purple Viola Archie Grant.

Carnations.

The centre bed in the garden is planted with
Carnation Ketton Rose ; this is the second year
it has flowered in the same place, and on this
bed— about 25 yards long and 6 feet wide —

there were when at their best 15,000 good-
formed flowers expanded at the same time, a
.sight to be remembered.

Leaving this snug corner, we pass through an
opening in the Yew hedge and enter what
should be the kitchen garden ; but such was
Lady Henry Grosvenor's love for flowers,
over half an acre was monopolised here
for growing Carnations and like flowers
for the house and for sending to hospitals.
First we come to what may be termed
nursery beds, which earlier in the season
were aglow with florists' Tulips, Ranunculi,
and Spanish Irises, but are now filled with se d-
ling Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Carnations, &c. , the
out->ide bed being used for various species of
Roses. Leaving these small beds we come to
what may be termed a " garden of Carnations."
As we stand on the top of the garden, running
in front of us are six long beds filled with Car-
nations, each bed 60 yards long and 5 feet wide.
On the right-hand side and running the whole
length of the beds is a hedge of Sweet Peas, on
the left the same, with a row of Cactus Dahlias
in front of them. The Carnations, which have
done exceptionally well, are what are termed
hardy border varieties, and as they are grown
entirely for cut flowers, no attempt is made at
disbudding. As the flowers expand they are
cut every morning, or as occasion may require,
and that unstintingly. The ground being a
good medium heavy loam, no manure is used
except for mulching, but burnt ashes in quan-
tity are substituted for the manure, the ground
well prepared in the axitumn, and all varieties
(except Gloire de Nancy or any that there may be
a doubt about their hardiness) are planted out in
October. Last winter they had no protection.
After planting nothing is done (save hoeing
among them to keep the weeds down) until they
are staked and tied, when if it is dry they have
a thorough soaking of water, then directly a
mulching of peat Moss and litter from the stable.
Respecting the sorts grown, first comes a new one
named Lady H. Grosvenor, to which a bed has
been allotted. This variety comes into flower
long before the general collection, and such is its
flowering qualities that most of the grass runs to
flower, thus keeping up a continual succession of
bloom. The difficulty is to get a good stock of it.
Lincolnshire Clove comes next, a late-flower-
ing variety, at its best a fortnight after most
others are past. G. P. Sage, the Burn Pink or
Duchess of Fife, Duchess of Portland, Mrs.
R. Hole, Mrs. Muir, Gloire de Nancy, Ger-
mania and Ketton Rose are grown in quantity ;
then a bed is devoted to French and German-
named sorts, amongst which are some very
pleasing things. Then another bed is set apart
for the trial of new sorts. Perhaps most con-
spicuous among the Carnations are the pinks,
rosy pinks and salmon pinks. There are
about 200 varieties, numbering in all about
G0OO plants.

Grass-walk Borders.

Sweet Peas forming a background for a bor-
der composed of Roses, Cloves, pink and
white Stocks, these edged with Musk and
white Thrift. On the doorway, and form-
ing as it were a framework for the door-posts,
are Lathyrus grandiflorus and Lathyrus latifolius
roseus, also two small hedges of that most blue
of all Peas, Lord Anson's. The bolder here on
the left is filled with seedling Carnations,
about 600. On the right we notice the Indian
Maize growing 8 feet high (as a vegetable). The
cinder walks being near the water are studded
with pot Chrysanthemums (400 being grown).
Passing through the door we turn to the left on
a Grass walk, which leads us round the out-
side of the kitchen garden. On the right-hand
side of this walk runs a 6-feet border, which
is full of Narcissi. In the far corner
we notice huge bushes of Nuts, carrying
heavy crops. Here Sweet Violets, single
and double, are grown for winter flower-
ing in frames, nearly 1000 roots being pre-
pared for that purpose. Passing along we cross
the bottom end of the long herbaceous border,
where we pause to admire the beautiful iron
gate leading out into the park. This gate is
reputed to have been made by a blacksmith at
the neighbouriug village of Deene, and is a
splendid piece of workmanship, the design
being certainly Dutch. Leaving the gate
we come into the upper kitchen garden,
which is full to overflowing with vegetables
and fruit bushes. Retracing our steps past the
greenhouse, we noticed five hedges of Emily
Henderson Sweet Pea, each about 40 yards
long. Although the flowers have been cut
from them by the basketful, still they are
carrying a good crop of seed.

In walking round, one of the most striking
characteristics of the place is the Grass walks.
This is easily accounted for, there being no
gravel pits in the locality. Running round the
entire length of the outside of the kitchen
garden is one, there is another crossing the
garden east and west, then there is one down
the centre of the long herbaceous border going
north and south. The effect of these Grass walks
and their charming fringes of border is very
pretty.

Flower Garden.

Leaving the Carnation garden we pass down
a Grass walk, which leads into what is called the
lower garden. On either side is a mixed border,
at the present time gay with Sunflowers, summer-
flowering Chrysanthemums, Gaillardias, Cosmo-
diums, Cactus Dahlias, &c. At the back of
each border are planted sweet-scented Pelar-
goniums for cutting. Down this border, at in-
tervals of every 8 yards or so, are erected rustic
arches, over which are climbing Gourds. Pass-
ing on we come into the lower garden, which
is used as a vegetable garden. The walk
through the centre leads down to the Yew
hedge, through which an opening has been
recently cut to show the water in the distance.
On either side of this walk are hedges of

COLOUR IN FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

Whatever may be the difference in the views
of Mr. Douglas and myself on the above subject,
my desire was simply to prevent its being sup-
posed by anyone not familiar with our flowers
that the combination of "rose and purple on
a white ground " in a Carnation is rejected
by florists. The class represented by this com-
bination of colours is a long-established and a
favourite one, and the objection to Mr. Douglas's
flower as shown in Mr. Moon's figure of it could
only bo that it had not enough of the bizarre
character in it.

As regards Dorothy, the pale rose flake, I saw it
here in the gardens of two of my neighbours, and
I noticed blooms of it shown at Kensington for
two seasons subsequent to the Slough show. The
pale rose markings had dwindled to a few faint
patches of colour here and there on an acre of
white ground, and it soon dropped out of notice.
I am, therefore, justified in my view that it was
never as a rose flake more than an imperfectly de-
veloped flower. Had it been other than this the
colour would have stood as has the colour of varie-
ties like Crista-galli and Sybil, after close on
thirty seasons of blooming, just as has that of
Mr. Douglas's own grand flower Thalia, which is
the queen of all the rose flakes.

Mr. Douglas admits that florists do not exclude
from their exhibitions Carnations other than the

Mahch 23, 189&.J

THE GARDEN.

197

bizarres and flakes, but claims for himself the
entire credit for providing classes for the selfs
and fancies, adding that "the florists opposed
them and would have none of them at first.'' I
do not wish to deny to Mr. Douglas his share of
credit in the matter, and it mav easily have been
that there were those among florists who, without
disparaging the beauty of the selfs and fancies,
thought their young society would have enough
to do at first in caring for their own special flowers.
Be this as it may, I have heard the late Mr. Dod-
well relate more" than once that when Mr. Charles
Turner and he were contemplating the establish-
ment of the southern section of the Mational
Carnation Society they wrote— in letters which
crossed — each suggesting to the other the pro-
viding of classes for the self and fancy flowers.
In view of this action on the part of the two lead-
ing florists of their day, it is scarcely fair to say

florists of the old school of certain varieties be-
cause of their shade of colour. I will be quite
plain and will not " confuse the issue." Mr.
Horner mis-reads me when he says, "It is too
wide an assertion to say that in the florist's Carna-
tion we insist that the colours, whatever they are,
should be of a dark and not a pale tint." He

' takes this to mean that I object to rose flakes and
pink and purple bizarres in Carnations. On the
contrary, I think the rose flakes are the most

, beautiful of the show Carnations, and have often
said so, and I admire the pink and purple bizarres.
What I did and do object to is that the strict
florist admits, say, Sarah Fayne and William
Skirving, but throws out Harmony. The judge
who did so was brought from the north of Eng-
land as the best representative from the north.
So far from my rejecting the pink and purple
bizarres or the rose flakes, I must refer again to the

Iris border iti lower garden, at Buluiek.

that the establishment of these classes was
"opposed by the florists."

I fail also to see the justice of the antagonism
which Mr. Douglas seems to set up between the
artist or "other tasteful person " and the florist.
If the artist admired Mr. Douglas's pink and purple
bizarre Harmony, he would also admire Sarah
Payne or William Skirving, which are more highly
developed flowers of the same class. He would
admire in them, just as we do, the symmetry of
form, the harmony of colour, and the combined re-
finement and force which are the characteristics
of these fine flowers. — M. Rowan.

I have received a number of letters from

lovers of these fine old garden flowers, most of
them from old friends. One or two of them seem
surprised beyond measure that I should write a3 I
have done. I will ask leave to make a few more
remarks to explain why I wrote and also to show
that I had reason on my side.

The Rev. F. D. Horner has also written to the
editor, and I would like to point out that he and
others have not quite understood me. What I
objected to was the total rejection by some

election of varieties just published. Where the
rose flake obtaining the highest number of marks
was raised by me, and I can add that Harmony
has crept up to the third place in the election,
two others of the same pale tints raised by me
have also obtained places. I suppose the florists
are at last getting out of this groove. There is
another point upon which I am at issue with the
old-fashioned florists. They say that every petal
in a bizarre Carnation must have two colours
upon it, or the flower must be disqualified. Never
mind how beautiful all the other petals may
be, as a show flower it must go, unless, perad-
venture, one spot may be found of the second
colour. Let the fault be a point against it if you
like, but do not let it be a disqualification. The
growersof Carnationsare becoming more numerous
year by year, and I am constantly being asked
to define the distinctions between a florist's Car-
nation and a border Carnation ; whereas I contend
that there is no difference. They are all border
Carnations. Mr. Horner knows very well that no
one insists more upon broad, well-formed petals
than I do, and that I have sense enough to know

a "washy" colour when I see it. A Pink can
be a pale delicate pink without pallor or sug-
gestion of skim milk.

As to the Auricula, Mr. Horner knows as well as
I do that the old Lancashire florists would have
none other colour than the black in Auriculas as a
ground ; consequently they did not follow up any
departure from this. The blue ground I think
lovely in white-edged Auriculas, and I have seen
all the varieties exhibited by Mr. Simonite, and
also by Mr. Horner in the south ; and if the
florists as a body will take up other colours as
well as the "black" ground, the Auricula will
soon become more popular than it is.

As to the Tulip, Mr. Horner knows all about
it, and he also knows that the objections I have
raised are not new. I would object to an impure
base as much as Mr. Horner would in a feathered
Tulip, but the original species — Tulipa Gesneri-
ana — has what the florists term an impure base ;
but they have worked it out, and the base in a
garden Tulip is a clear yellow or white ; but as
this "fault" was implanted there by the hand of
Nature's architect, I am not sure that we ought to
consider it a blemish. What I would like to see
done — and I hope it will be done — is a standard
of excellence set up for all our florists' flowers.
The Horticultural Society is engaged in this
work at the present moment, and I am sure any
suggestions from florists would be considered.

The late Mr. Olenny wrote a book on the pro-
perties of florists' flowers on the lines of the old
florists, with certain modifications. I believe it
would be a great help to a judge if every floral
society were to publish a complete standard of
excellence and a code of rules for judging. This
want has always been felt, and I know there is
much feeling caused by the mistakes made by
judges at the present day.

I have before me a circular issued by a floral
society in 1834, in which it states that " In conse-
quence of the disappointments which the cultiva-
tors of florists' flowers have frequently met with at
the society's exhibitions, by reason of the censors
awarding prizes to flowers that in some cases
ought to have been set aside as wanting the
requisite qualities, and in others by their marked
preference for flowers that were but lightly
esteemed by the most experienced cultivators, it
was deemed expedient to appoint a sub-committee
to draw up rules for theguidance of the censors at the
society's future exhibitions." The names of thesub-
committee mightbe interesting ; they were : James
Twitchett, Richard Headly, Adam Finch, Fred.
Finch, Samuel Widnall, Edward Catling. Tiiey
give their views of the standard of excellence
in Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Tulips, Anemones,
Ranunculuses, Pinkp, Carnations, and Picotees.
It may be remarked that they say nothing about
the stained stamens being a disqualification in a
Tulip, but they use the word "must" in many
places where I would use "should." In fact, the
use of this word " must " by florists being insisted
upon when certain points are considered is one of
my main objections. — J. Douglas.

Tufted Pansies. — If we accept this name for
those plants that were formerly known as Violas,
it should, I think, be applied only to those va-
rieties that are really entitled to such a name, and
not to those whose habit of growth and power of
reproduction more resemble the true Pansy. Take,
for instance, that type of flower of which Countess
of Kintore and Annie King may be cited as
examples. Save for their long-enduring and very
free-flowering properties they have little in
common with a true tufted Pansy. The profusion
and density of growth emanating from the old
root are wanting and the liability to split up the
old plants into an unlimited number of parts, each
with its tiny rootlets, is also wanting. These
characteristics are noticeable in many varieties
that are now catalogued as tufted Pansies. These
remarks must not be taken as intended to depre-
ciate the worth of these particular varieties for
the flower garden. On the contrary, they are
beautiful and long-enduring. My contention is
simpl}' that if Violetta, for example, is a true

198

THE GARDEN.

[March 23, 1895.

tufted Pansy, it requires a considerable stretch of
the imagination to put Countess of Kintore in the
same class. Now that the Violetta type is being
strengthened each succeeding year, why not put
all of similar habit into one class and let the
strong straggling growers be known simply as
Violas'; Some of the stronger varieties are notice-
able for very distinct foliage, slightly darker and
individual leaves at once larger and also firmer
and more smooth in texture. I have found this
especially in Annie King and in a seedling ob-
tained from White Swan. A careful inspection of
the beds now that the spell of frost is over shows
very few gaps in the ranks of the number of plants
(rather over four thousand in fifteen varieties) put
out last October. Not more than a score are miss-
ing, a fact that speaks volumes for their hardiness
when we consider that for many nights in February
the glass was at zero, or only a few degrees above
that point. — E. B.

Polyanthuses. — Late-sown seedlings of these
that were pricked off on prepared borders will
want a little attention as soon as the ground is
workable, for unless they were inserted very
firmly there may possibly be an upheaval of the
small plants and an exposure of roots. Having
secured an excellent stock in separate colours, I
was able after the flowering season to split up
the old plants, and to obtain in this way quite as
many as I required. A showery time followed
the replanting ; the plants came away without
any check and threw quite a nice lot of flower
throughout the autumn — in fact I was able to
cut good trusses until the first frost in January.
All the Polyanthus family as well as the tufted
Pansies will be welcome this spring. It seems
probable that other things, Wallflowers and
Silene for example, will not recover from the
frost. A fairly moist spring is the best for Polyan-
thuses, especially on light, dry soil. They were
poor, for instance, in 1893, where such conditions
existed and good surface mulching and watering
were not practicable. — E. B.

Effects of the frost on shrubs. — It is per-
haps somewhat early to pass a decided opinion as
to the damage done, but I should say, although
not of a permanent nature, the exceptional
weather in February will be answerable for con-
siderable damage to foliage, and also for the
destruction of a lot of the earliest buds on
deciduous shrubs. Nearly all the Laurustinus
bloom, whether expanded or in bud, is destroyed,
and the buds on either side the shoots three or
four pairs down from the top also appear to be
badly nipped. I was looking over a big mass
of Rhododendron Nobleanum lately, and find
that all points of the foliage are touched, that is
the tender foliage, some half a dozen top leaves.
Some outdoor Camellias that anticipated the
season, owing to the mild weather experienced
until the new year and made a slight start, have
naturally received a rude shock. In the way of
deciduous shrubs, I have to record with regret a
big loss of buds on the white form of Cydonia
japonica ; we shall miss the sheet of bloom that is
usually a prominent feature in the flower garden
quite early in the season. The buds, to use an
expression common among gardeners, also look
very "shaky" on that lovely deciduous shrub,
Spirani prunifolia fl. -pi. Matters, however, are
never so bad but that they might be worse. If the
mild weather of the early winter had lasted a few
weeks longer and the severe frost had then fol-
lowed, I fear we should have chronicled a much
heavier loss. — E. B., Claremont.

Starwoits. —As the majority of these bear late
division and replanting better than most herba-
ceous plants, advantage may be taken of the ear-
liest time when the ground is workable to fill up
any gaps in borders or shrubberies where their
presence would be acceptable. It sometimes
happens that in trimming up Evergreens or
looking through deciduous shrubs portions of
soil may be laid bare by the removal of unsightly
or dead branches, and if there are no more shrubs
to hand, the gaps can often be tilled with the taller
herbaceous plants to give a bit of colour, and

there are few better things than Starworts. One
can command such a variety in height from 18
inches to 0 feet, and they also possess the merit of
flowering satisfactorily the first year if care is
taken in the planting. A little good short manure
to work round the roots and also as a mulch is ad-
visable. Touching the practicability of late lifting
and replanting suggested above and the qualifying
statement " some varieties," it may be noted for
the benefit of those who are only just starting the
cultivation of these plants that there is a wide
difference in their habit of growth ; some will grow
anywhere and anyhow, except perhaps in the
poorest and driest of soils, and once established
are almost as difficult to get rid of as Couch
Grass, whilst others have no rambling tendencies
and increase in bulk very slowly. As it is always
advisable, if possible, to plant each sort in suffi-
cient quantity to give a fair idea of its merits, the
planting may naturally be close or wide to suit
the characteristics of the variety. A case in point
to illustrate the suggestion here made may be given.
Amellus bessarabicus and acris are two varieties
almost identical in height and time of flowering,
but whilst a small piece of the former would cover
a square yard of ground in two or three seasons
if not kept in check, the latter is emphatically a
" stay-at-home," and it is a long time after plant-
ing before one gets a large clump of it. In justice
to this very beautiful Starwort, it may, however,
be noted that a surprisingly large head of flower is
produced from a comparatively small plant. It
was seen in perfection last year, the damp summer
having the effect of preserving the individual
flowers at their best much longer than usual,
besides being answerable for additional vigour in
the plants. — E. B.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
Advantage must be taken of the first time the
ground can be pronounced in a workable condition
to make an inspection of herbaceous borders, with
the view to ascertain the amount of damage effected
by the frost, and to make provision for repairing
the same at the earliest opportunity planting may
be practicable. Fortunately, there are not many
inmates of these borders that are likely to succumb
in ordinary winters, except it may be Chrysan-
themums and one or two other things that may
have fallen victims to insufficient mulching, as
Romneya Coulteri, or to the neglect of tying up
the foliage to protect the heart of the plant, as
with Yucca filamentosa. This late frost, however,
has been so exceptionally severe and prolonged as
to play sad havoc with some plants that as a rule
come safely through the winter — Antirrhinums and
Pentstemons for example. They may generally be
depended on to break away from the stem even if
the foliage is crippled, but this frost seems to have
gone clean through foliage, branch and stem.
Bearing in mind, therefore, the possibility of losses,
it is always advisable to have a little stock in hand
of really good things with which one may replace
such losses. The two species above named as
likely to succumb to the frost as well as scarlet
Lobelias, Phloxes, perennial Sunflowers, Starworts
and many other things can all be readily increased
either from offsets or cuttings. If these were
inserted at the proper time and then potted or
boxed, they should now be capital little plants.
Of course, in the case of those varieties where
there is plenty of stock and division is practicable
this mode of propagation can be practised, but
where the stock is limited it is often not advisable
to mutilate existing clumps, and in such cases the
slower, but not less certain mode of propagation is
recommended. In the matter of the Phloxes care
should be taken to make sure before planting
whether they belong to the tall or dwarf sections,
that they may be assigned respectively to the
centre or back of the border. Many of the newer
Phloxes too throw such spendid heads of flower
that it is advisable to so plant that they stand
clear of each other. A surface mulching is always
to be recommended after late planting, and if slugs
are likely to be troublesome, some cocoa-nut fibre
or coal ashes — the latter perhaps preferably — may

be placed about the plants or things of a succulent
nature, as the Phloxes and Pentstemons are apt to
vanish very quickly.

Sisyrinchiums. — Ishould like to say a good word
for these, especially grandiflorum, where the prac-
tice of filling up large beds with herbaceous in
lieu of bedding plants prevails. This may be
planted in bold clumps, the remaining portions of
the bed to be appropriated by some dwarfer
carpet plant. It is very handsome alike in flower
and foliage, the latter, indeed, somewhat resem-
bling that of the Iris family. Nor ought the old
common variety to be despised for rough ground
where choicer plants would fail to give satisfactory
results. I have worked occasional clumps into such
positions together with Foxgloves, Verbascums,
and hardy plants of a similar character, and once
planted, the Sisyrinchium can be relied on to yield
annually a plentiful crop of seedlings which can
be thinned out early in the season, allowing suffi-
cient to remain to cover the ground. Among the
various things used for the site above-named were
some large clumps of Lilium candidum, and the
ground having been deeply worked they have done
fairly well. I fancy in their case the check given
to early growth may have a tendency to keep the
plants more free from disease than is usually the
case. One always regrets an early development
of foliage, as a cold spell often follows, and a
check at this time is invariably followed by the
appearance of mildew.

Propagating. — As the time for the propagation
of tender plants is now drawing to a close, it is
advisable to make a thorough inspection of the
stock with the view to ascertain if sufficient quan-
tities are to hand of the various things likely to
be required, and if any varieties are found wanting
to consider the possibility of finding sufficient
substitutes. Thus, if there is not enough of the
dwarf Ageratum or a particular strain of Lobelia
one can sometimes substitute a good dwarf purple
Viola, and recourse may be had to the old stock
even at the eleventh hour. If it is split up
into a multitude of little pieces and planted for a
few weeks in a bit of good soil, receiving the
necessary attention in the way of watering, &c,
it will come in very handy by the end of May.
Naturally it will be late coming into flower in
comparison with October planted cuttings, and
the practice is not to be recommended ; the fact,
however, remains that deficiencies can be made
up in this way. Similarly White Swan Viola can
be substituted for Mangles' variegated Geranium,
often a miffy plant to strike, and Lord Elcho,
Bullion, or Prince of Orange for Calceolarias and
yellow Trop;eolums. Again, in the case of large
beds where a certain number of flowering or fine-
foliaged plants is to be associated with a carpet
of hardy plants, the latter may often be consider-
ably strengthened, the propagation of such things,
for instance, as Antennaria tomentosa, the car-
peting Seduras and Veronica being of a compara-
tively easy nature. Very quiet arrangements can
be made in this way : a group of Grevillea robusta
or Dracama gracilis, for instance, on a carpet of
Sedum Lydiumoreven the old double Chamomile,
and as an example of brighter colouring, clumps
of Lobelia fulgens Queen Victoria or Firefly (the
latter would seem to be the strongest of the family)
on the silvery Veronica. Very nice beds can be
obtained for small gardens with some of the Eche-
verias, not in the way of carpet bedding, for the
practice of sticking these plants close together on
a mud wall and carefully pinching out every
flower is greatly to be deplored, but planted
thinly all over a narrow border, giving them just
the right distance to allow of the flower-stems as
they appear to swing clear of each other and show-
ing a little green carpet beneath. I have generally
found room for our stock of succulents on a rather
poor border that was partially filled with the pink
alpine Phlox. E. Burrell.

Claremont.

Calla (Richardia) sethiopica as an aquatic.

— Although occasionally this Calla is utilised as a
waterside and bog plant, it is surprising it is so
little grown as a hardy aquatic, for hardy as such

March 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

199

it certainly is, and a most noble one as well. We
have large clumps of it in an artificial lake of
eleven acres in extent at a considerable elevation,
where they have grown strongly and flowered freely
for years, and a number of fresh clumps are
annually added—surplus stock of friends who grow
them in the orthodox way. Old hampers and such
like things are filled with good soil, in which the
roots are planted, thence from a boat they are
dropped in where the depth of water ranges from
•2 feet to 3 feet, and left to take care of them-
selves. Ere the old baskets are rotten the Lilies
have rooted through them and taken hold of the
mud and leafy accumulations, of which there is
abundance overlying the bottom of the lake, for it
is nearly surrounded with extonsive Oak woods,
and is fed by mountain streams. During the
summer months the tufts of lively green foliage
interspersed with the noble white spathes are
objects of attraction and admiration, and form
worthy companions to the peerless white Lilies.
This is not a case where extreme mildness of the
winter should count in their favour, for skating is
almost annually indulged in on the lake, and this
year this exhilarating pastime was carried on — on
and off— for over six weeks. Still, we have no
qualms of fear as to the well-being of the Callas in
their watery bed, for undoubtedly they will come
up and bloom in due course as hitherto. 1 hope
those possessing, or having the management, of
ornamental waters will muster enough courage to
give Callas a trial, for assuredly the result, will be
satisfactory. Would that the beautiful Calla
Elliottiana would become sufficiently plentiful and
cheap for employing in the same way. — J. R.

The Week's Work.

FRUIT HOUSES.
Thinning Grapes. — In early houses the thinning
is now an important work, and as such kinds as
Foster's Seedling, Black Hamburgh, and other early
varieties will need constant attention, there should
be no delay. To become an adapt at thinning, a
good eye is necessary to judge of the formation of
bunch, as even in Black Hamburgh the bunches
differ, some being looser than others, so that a
strict rule cannot be followed as regards the work.
The operator should have a knowledge of the
various varieties. Some are very shy setters, and
uniform thinning would result in many bunches
being too thin. Beginners should proceed care-
fully and first practise with the free-setting
kinds. It is safe to thin twice ; firstly when the
Grapes are the size of small round Peas, or say a
Peppercorn, and again from two to three weeks
later, as at that period any stoneless berries or
misplaced ones can be removed and more atten-
tion paid to tying up the bunches, although I am
of opinion many young beginners pay too much
attention to this point, as many bunches do not
require it if well thinned. Of course, to get exhibi-
tion bunches, it is necessary, but these are taken
in hand by those who require little advice of any
kind. In thinning, the season should be taken
into account ; summer or early Grapes require less
thinning than those required to hang a long time.
Close, compact-growing kinds which set thickly
are more troublesome, and as these often produce
large berries early thinning is important. In
many instances I have found it necessary to thin
as soon as set, again in a fortnight, and to look
over the bunches before the final swelling to
remove badly-placed berries, and with late-keep-
ing Grapes to allow sufficient room so that there
is no possible chance of the berries binding each
other. If at all thick, such bunches will not
keep, but soon get mouldy in the centre. Gros
Colman, for instance, when well grown produces
such large berries, that it is often left too thick,
and three thinnings are not too much for late
kinds such as described above. In thinning,
the operator should begin at the point of the
bunch and work upwards, never touching
the berries with the hand and using a small

peg or stick to steady the bunch. Any part
of the bunch touched by the hair or clothes sets
rusty, and in thinning, thoroughly clear out of
the bunch blind and small berries at the start or
first thinning. The best time to thin is early in
the day, buc it can be done later, as one can often
shade while the work is proceeding. Many are
obliged to thin in the evening, as pressure of work
does not permit the work to be done in the day.
More care is necessaiy at night, as the houses have
more moisture and the berries, if much handled,
are robbed of their bloom.

Rust on Grapes. — This often occurs at this
period of the [year, and in some houses is worse
than others. Iron houses, specially old structures,
are bad and more troublesome to keep clear, as
the frames of the houses are so contracted by
heat and cold and admit such volumes of cold air
when the wind is north or east. Early Grapes in
such structures are subject to extremes. Sulphur
in any form is most injurious, and is often the
cause of rust when least expected. If the pipes the
previous season were covered with sulphur, the
undersides often retain a portion of the sulphur,
or there may be portions out of sight. When the
pipes are heated and the Grapes are small, they
give off sulphur fumes which rust the berries when
such fumes cannot escape. Sulphur is often used
to counteract red spider, but until the skin of the
(irapes is hard it is dangerous. I would advise a
little warm water with tobacco or soft soap, spong-
ing the affected parts. Again, many vineries
have doors at the side or back, and if not caref ully
opened admit cold air, which causes rust. Ex-
cessive ventilation and syringing have the same
tendency. It is scarcely necessary to add that
handling of the bunches when thinning is equally
injurious, and it will be found that early Grapes
suffer from rust much more than others. This
pest disfigures the berries, prevents swelling, and
spreads if not taken notice of. Many Vines have
the rods so close to the glass, that the thoots are
subjected to extremes of temperature, this caus-
ing a warty growth on the leaves — often, too,
mildew. In such houses mucli could be done by
suspending the rods for a time till the weather
is more genial with a free circulation of air both
day and night.

Planting Vines, — At this season many Grape
growers plant cut- back Vines and in a short time
get heavy crops. Planting will be later than
usual, not because the plants are later, but through
trouble in getting the border into condition, as for
some weeks soils have been quite frost-bound. As
most growers are aware, the Vine does not push
out new roots when the sap is rising, not until
there is new wood. This Mill allow the Vines some
few weeks' start, but when cut-back canes are
used, plant when the shoots are about 3 inches
long, just when new roots are forming. At plant-
ing well shake out the roots and spread them out
evenly. Avoid deep planting, but in all cases
make the soil firm both before and after planting.
To prevent undue delay in planting, if the soil
should have been in the open, prepare the surface
soil or portion next the roots by placing in a warm
house and having the lower portion more ex-
posed in the border. Such soil will be fit for
planting much sooner than when the border was
made at once or in greater bulk. If ripened canes
are planted these are often purchased when from
6 feet to S feet long, and they are not often re-
quired of such a length, but cutting back now is
out of the question. If the canes be strong there
would be great loss of vigour from bleeding. The
best practice is to rub all buds oft' down to the
height required and cut away the naked portion
when the new growths are well advanced. These
remarks apply more at this date to Vines planted
in outside borders, and in most cases there will
be no gain by very early planting, the outside soil
being very cold. If planted early, protection
should be given, a slight hotbed being of great
benefit when placed over the roots so as to start
them.

Grafting Vines. — The season is at hand for
this work. Many growers now adopt what is
termed bottle-grafting, which is simple, no time

being lost in getting the new portion to make a
quick growth. Those who require to change any
variety can quickly do so ; others again can put
a new variety on an old stock and gain much time
by the operation. The Black Hamburgh and
Muscat of Alexandria are well-known stocks for
grafting, though I need scarcely remark that
others are equally suitable. Some excellent re-
sults have been obtained from diverse stocks, but
in a calendar note as to the utility of grafting
the question of stocks does not occur. Scions for
use during the next few weeks should be kept
quiet till about ten days before grafting. Plunge
them in the open ground and place in heat at the
time named so as to gently excite the sap. Tho
grafts may be attached to the old rods or to good
lateral growth. 1 advise the latter whenever
practicable. The grafts should be fitted together
and a slice taken off the scion a few inches long,
a corresponding slice being taken off the stock,
which should be cut a little deep at the lower
portion and a similar cut made in an upward
direction in the graft. This is termed tongueing,
and gives each a grip. There should be two good
buds above the cut or upper portion of the graft,
and a length of from 4 inches to 0 inches under
the tie or clay. Insert this part in a bottle kept
full of water tied to the Vine, this supporting
the graft till the union with the stock is firmly
made, and the bottle may be left till the Vines
have finished growth, when a neat cut may be
made. Remove the useless lower wood which
supplied the moisture, firmly bind the graft to
the stock by matting or coarse cotton, and cover
over with clay or prepared grafting wax.

Inarching Vines. — This is only another means
of attaining the same end as advised above. This
operation can be done with ripened wood or new
growth, and if with ripened canes the wood should
be on the point of breaking freely, that is, the
sap well advanced. Place two portions of growing
Vines together, cuts being made as advised for
bottle-grafting. Tie firmly together and cover
with clay or wax, the upper portion or part above
the buds or shoots required to grow not being
allowed to make strong shoots. Stop at the
fourth leaf, otherwise inarching will prove a
failure. To be successful, a pot Vine is generally
used for inarching ; place it in position against
the older Vine. With green wood, inarching with
strong pot Vines is often practised, but the wood
must not be too soft, rather firm, but not set,
what one would term half grown. A slight por-
tion of both stock and scion is cut, the two being
neatly fitted together and treated as described for
ripened wood. Keep the portion moist, the scion
soon taking the lead. The growth from the stock
must be stopped at the third joint to allow the
scion to grow freely. G. Wythes.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
Planting Potatoes. — Although extra care in
planting and sowing for first early crops will this
year be necessary, all who have warm sheltered
borders may now venture to get in prepared
tubers of such Potatoes as Sharpe's Victor, King-
leader, Maximus, or any of the favourite Ashleaf
section. I say prepared, as although some do not
believe in sprouting early Potatoes, I have myself
proved its advantages. The tubers should not be
brought forward in Peach houses and vineries, as
in the case of frame-planted ones, but in an
ordinary greenhouse, so that they are hard and
durable, and not liable to feel the fluctuations in
temperature likely to occur after being planted.
Of course this batch will need protection when
through the surface ; indeed, I always give it at
planting time by employing wooden troughs
which stand between the rows in the daytime and
are placed over them at night. These keep the
ground from freezing and hell) to retain any sun-
heat communicated to the border during the day.
Bewaie of deep planting. Merely draw drills
sufficiently deep to allow of the seed being nicely
covered. If these are drawn in the forenoon of a
fine sunny day and allowed to stand open till the
afternoon they will not only be dry, but warm, and

200

THE GARDEN

l March 23, 1895.

the tubers will have a better start. If potting
shed refuse, edgings of walks and drives, burnt
refuse and lc:if mould were prepared and kept dry
as advised earlier in the year, they will now be found
invaluable for use in the Potato drills. I prefer
to leave about three strong sprouts to each tuber.
Some advise two only, but sometimes some of
them are eaten off by grubs or fail from some
unforeseen cause, and then blanks occur; besides,
a fair amount of foliage is essential in these extra
early crops to promote a satisfactory root action.
I have known good dishes secured by planting
between trees close up to south walls, merely
inserting the seed a couple of inches deep, and
afterwards covering with ligh soil especially pre-
pared for the purpose, the haulm being shielded
from frost by Bracken or litter. In regard to the
main crop of garden Potatoes, planting in the
majority of cases had better be deferred for the
present" as the plots intended for their reception
are generally less favoured with warmth from sun
heat and the tubers lie inactive for some time,
suffering in consequence. The first week in April
is a good time for planting these, and even then
growth frequently falls a victim to late frosts.
Where rough boxes of moderate depth can be
made on the premises, some of the more advanced
tubers of the early border section may well be
planted in these, being then brought on in light
positions in orchard houses or late Peach houses
as near the glass as possible. These will prevent
the probability of a break in the supply between
the second frame batches and those from the open
air. If a few rows of Sutton's Seedling and
Puritan be planted now they will follow quickly
on the heels of Victor, Ringleader and Maximus.
Any new scares variety may be made the most of
by cutting the tubers into sections, each of these
being furnished with one or more eyes. When
this is practised it should be done some days
before planting and the cut portions exposed to
the action of light and air to enable them to dry
and in part colour. Some dry sandy soil ought
also be placed round them in the drills. If a
little soot be incorporated it will aid in keeping
slugs off, as these pests often injure divided
sets. For all first early short-topped varieties a
distance of from 15 inches to 18 inches between
the rows, and 9 inches or 10 inches from set to set
is sufficient.

Earliest forced Potatoes. — December-planted
lots occupying pits and frames will now be
coming on apace, the haulm needing support by
means of short twigs and the roots increased
supplies of moisture supplied in a lukewarm
state. A little guano stirred into the surface and
watered home is an effectual stimulant, the am-
monia arising therefore seeming also to feed and
strengthen the foliage. Early closing, so as to
husband sun-heat, must be practised until
growth assumes a yellowish tint and the tubers
are fit to lift. Plenty of fresh air must be ad-
mitted on fine days, increasing it at intervals
from breakfast-time till noon, and on no account
must good night coverings be neglected, even
though it be fine and mild at dusk. Any roots
which were not forward enough for earthing when
the main portion was done must now be seen to,
fresh soil being added to the surface rather than
mangling the roots by disturbing that between
the rows. I always earth up as little as possible,
as much soil keeps the roots cold and does incal-
culable harm. Very forward Potatoes in pots
growing in Peach houses or other intermediate
structures will already have small tubers forming
which will be large enough for use in April.
Another and final sprinkling of artificial manure
may now be given, and where the tops have run
up to an unusual height the leads may be
pinched off: this will strengthen the stems and
improve the crop generally.

Transplanting Cauliflowers. — Those who
still adopt the good old method of planting a
number of Cauliflowers of the Early London and
Walcheren type in handlights in October usually
allow five plants to each light to start with, with
a view to thinning out in spring. Where the
plants withstood the late severe frost transplant-

ing may now take place. Some leave one at each
corner of the light and remove the centre one
only, but where the plants are healthy and the
land rich this space is scarcely sufficient for the
Walcheren, which as a rule grows thicker in the
stem and produces larger leaves than Early London.
I always leave the three best plants in the handlight
and remove the rest for making extra rows, lifting
them carefully and planting on light warm soil,
dug or trenched in autumn, and scuttled several
times with forks on sunny days to warm the
surface. As March-transplanted Cauliflowers sel-
dom attain to their normal size, 18 inches between
the rows and 15 inches from plant to plant will be
ample. Lower the balls well to steady the stems,
as winds are apt to loosen them at the base, and
if once they sway to and fro they seldom do any

Border of fine-leaved hardy plants, Bulwick, 1891.

good. Protect well with Spruce, Laurel, or Yew
boughs, and in case of mild showery weather
watch regularly for slugs, dusting between the
plants with equal parts lime and wood ashes on
their first appearance. In many places handlight
plants have been killed, and where this is so the
soil within should be well stirred with a hand-fork
and the tops allowed to remain on for a few days.
It will then be thoroughly warm and in readiness
for plants that have been wintered in frames and
pits. If these were allowed a moderate depth of
soil only, and that somewhat retentive, a layer of
manure being under it, on a hard ash bottom, they
should lift well with care and suffer but little
from the removal. It will be as well to leave the
tops of the lights on crossways for a week, after
which full exposure on calm fine days will suit

them best. If any plants have been wintered in
pots, they may be planted on the most exposed
plots, being better able to stand removal than
lifted plants.

Cabbages. — Fortunately, the plants in many
seed beds were well covered with snow, and so
were saved from destruction. As green vegetables
are sure to be very scarce, all spare ground
should be filled up with the best of the plants,
carrying out the work with due care, and drawing
up a little earth to the stems, as they are sure to
be somewhat leggy. If such Cabbages do not at-
tain to their normal size, which they can hardly be
expected to do, not having been previously pricked
out, yet they will come in at a most acceptable
time, proving most useful. All autumn-planted
quarters of Ellam's and other first early sorts
should again be gone through, firming being
necessary. The Dutch hoe should also be run
through the rows, a good sprinkling of artificial
manure being first given.

Second earliest Carrots. — Where Carrots
are in constant demand for soups it is a good
plan to sow a few rows of the early stump-
rooted section now, as the early protected bed of
French or Parisian Forcing sown in February is
liable to be much thinned by grubs, fly, or even
wireworm. I would advise the sowing of an
equal quantity of Market Favourite, Early Gem,
and the old Nantes Horn. The first named will
lead the way by long odds. Nantes will follow,
and Early Gem keep up the supply. No manure,
a surface rendered fine by repeated scuffling, and
a fairly sunny aspect are the chief necessities for
this special crop. Wood ashes may be freely used
over the seed before the slight drill is filled in, and
the soil made firm by treading and re-treading.
The main crop sowings must be deferred until
April, and for early, mid-season, and latest crop
more seed than usual sown, as it was harvested in
an unsatisfactory condition last season.

Seedling Lettuce. — Few even of the so-called
hardy old Brown Cos planted out under walls last
October have survived even where afforded a
little protection. Young seedlings, therefore,
which were sown in heat in January or February
will need special care in order to save them from
becoming leggy or damping off. Presuming
that due thinning was performed as soon as they
could be handled, and that they were removed
from their germinating quarters to a temperature
a few degrees less, they will now be in a fit condi-
tion for pricking out into boxes or on a slight hot-
bed, preferably the latter. Let the soil be fairly
rich and made firm, pricking out about 4 inches
apart and keeping the frame close for a few days.
After this a confined atmosphere must be avoided,
all the air possible being admitted by tilted lights
until free growth has commenced, when their
entire removal on fine daj's will be imperative. If
a spare light or two is at hand, All the Year
Round may be allowed to mature in them, this
being of very rapid growth and much esteemed
for salad.

Unprotected Radishes — The time has now
arrived whon open-air sowings of Wood's Frame
and French Breakfast may be made without the
necessity of covering at night. Choose an open
sunny spot and work it well with a fork to secure
dryness, sow broadcast and cover but slightly,
finally treading and raking the surface, and fix-
ing a fish-net over the bed for protection from
chaffinches. If this is neglected in vt ooded districts
not one seed will be left.

Beans for cool frames. — Although not gener-
ally practised, it is a good plan to sow a batch or
two of French Beans in pots, at first giving them
comfortable quarters, and as soon as 3 inches
of growth have been made, remove them to a
frame which can be kept rather close for a time
and be well covered at night till the second or
third week in April, when they may be finally
transplanted into cool pits or home-made frames,
any spare odd lights being used to cover them.
A 4-inch pot is the best size to sow in, and this
should be done thinly, as, unlike those trans-
planted into heated beds, they do not like to be
separated. A sunny nook or corner sheltered by

\

Maech 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

201

fruit or plant houses or high walls, and having
a due south aspect, is necessary. The soil must
be thrown into the frames some time before
planting takes place so as to be well warmed.
This is most important, as, if planted in cold com-
post, French Beans not only do indifferently,
but frequently canker at the base of the stem
and naturally rot. A little guano stirred in helps
them much, it being of a warm nature. Fowls'
manure incorporated with fine soil in winter and
stored away in a dry shed is also an excellent
stimulant for Beans and all heat-loving crops.
They should be planted far enough apart in the
rows to allow of a slight earthing-up, as then the
tops will not need the aid of sticks. Newington
Wonder, Syon House, and Mohawk are all excel-
lent for this sowing, being hardier than most
other sorts and not growing too tall.

Endive. — Lettuce being so scarce, those who
have still a good frame of Broad-leaved Endive
are fortunate. In order to make the most of it,
remove it to a north aspect and bed the balls
in quite dry soil or leaf mould ; wet soil would
encourage rot in such a position. This removal
will prevent it running to seed, which it is apt to
do at this date when in a sunny place. Do not
draw off the lights, but merely tilt them, as if
once rain falls on the leaves and gets into the
heart it will perish in such a position.

Root SHED. — This should now have its final
overhauling, as many things, notably Salsafy
and Scorzonera, will be losing their vitality and
shrivelling. In order to stay this as much as
possible, relay in fresh soil containing a good
amount of moisture. J. Crawford.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1006.

TALL RUDBECKIAS.

(with a coloured plate of r. nitida.*)

The tall Rudbeckias are useful in the garden
during late summer and early autumn, especially
if they are taken out of the mixed border with
its usual restriction and planted in masses
among shrubs or grouped in a free and simple
way. Large groups of such easily grown free-
flowerirjg plants as these are most valuable for
creating distinct effects of colour even in distant
parts of the garden.

R. nitida, here figured, is one of the hand-
somest of the tall-growing kinds, and though by
no means new, it is decidedly rare in gardens. It
has large leaves of a decided glaucous tint, and
its flower- spikes reach a height of about 6 feet.
The spikes are few-flowered, but the flowers in-
dividually are of fine size, rich yellow in colour,
with the disc florets disposed in a cone-like recep-
tacle. Doubtless the illustration here given will
cause some attention to be bestowed upon a neg-
lected, but admirable species. It is also known
under the name of laevigata.

R. laciniata is another handsome species which
grows 6 feet or more in height, and has been
thought a poor weedy subject when seen as a half-
starved tuft standing in the same place a decade
or more. Planted as advised above and new
groups made from time to time, it is a brilliant
late summer flower. Its leaves are deeply cut and
the flower-spikes bear many flowers, not quite so
large as those of the preceding kind, but of a soft
clear yellow colour.

R. californica, another fine species, growing
about ti feet high, has flowers of a rich yellow col-
our, larger and broader in the petal than those of
laciniata, with a distinct cone in the centre like an
Acorn.

R. maxima is one of the largest cone flowers,
and in rich soil grows as high as 9 feet. Usually,

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon in
Messrs. Barr's nursery, Long Ditton. Lithographed
and printed by Guillaume Severeyne.

however, it does not exceed 6 feet in height. It
has large oval leaves ; the lower ones, borne on
long stems, are of a distinct glaucous green shade.
The stems are often terminated by one large bloom,
but if branched they only produce a few flowers
each on a naked stem 15 inches to IS inches long.
The long ray petals droop when the flower is fully
expanded and accentuate the characteristic effect
of the cone in the centre, which projects sometimes
as much as 2 inches above the yellow rays.

A. H.

Kitchen Garden.

EARLY

LATE PLANTING OF
POTATOES.

On all sides one hears of the determination of
growers to defer the planting of the main crop
until later than has been the custom. This
determination is a wise one. Apart from the
fact that the late planter stands a better chance
of his crop escaping the action of the frost, it
gives him a longer time to prepare the ground,
and therefore it is likely to be in better con-
dition to receive the sets. One cannot but think
that many growers have been long in learning
this lesson, but it seems now that the destruc-
tion of the haulm by the frost last season has
brought it home to them in a forcible manner.
Anxiety appears to be directed now as to the
latest time it is safe to defer the planting with-
out prejudice to the crop. Locality, I think,
should decide this point in most cases. Here in
the west of England very excellent crops are
obtained by planting at the end — or thereabouts
— of the third week in April. But here again
the district may be advantageously taken into
account. In hilly districts it is quite safe to
plant ten days earlier than in the valleys. I
may also direct attention to a point that has
often been urged before. I refer to planting the
late varieties first and the early sorts last.
There is a good deal of reason in this, because
it enables the cultivator to push on the work of
planting earlier than he otherwise could.
It is quite clear that more attention should
be given to the preparation of the sets,
and the sooner that is set about the
better. Those who have them in caves or
stored in close frost-proof structures should get
them uncovered, and, if possible, spread out
thinly on the floor of some building where they
will be safe from frost. The thinner they lie
the better condition they will be in for planting.
If light and air can reach the sets in mild
weather it will be an advantage, as they will be
kept cooler, and consequently will not become
exhausted by sprouting. In their anxiety to
keep Potato sets free from the late severe frost
many people placed their stock in barrels and
boxes and stored them away in warm sheds and
other safe places. Such a step was a wise one
and all very well while the frost lasted, but if
they are kept in such places long after the frost
has left us, the sets will begin to sprout and all
the shoots will have to be rubbed off to separate
them. The result will be a considerable weaken-
ing of the sets. The stock of tubers for seed
will well repay for going over now, and
wherever the conditions are likely to promote
an early growth the sets should be removed to
cooler and more airy quarters.

Opinions appear to differ somewhat as to the
value of large sets over small ones. This is a
question that should be decided by the condi-
tion of the ground. If it has been well pre-
pared, then moderately sized sets are equal to
large ones. In no case do I favour selecting
small ones, but in indifferently prepared land

rather large sets will always give better returns
than small ones. The same kind of reasoning
holds good with regard to cut sets. In well
cultivated soil cut sets are equal to whole ones,
but where the land is crude and lumpy uncut
tubers are decidedly the best. Very few large
growers in the west of England— and there are
many that plant from ten to twenty acres — cut
their sets. If they cut any it is only the
largest, and these invariably have the best posi-
tion in the field. J. C. Clarke.

Sutton's Favourite Lettuce.— This is one of
the best Lettuces for summer use, the hearts
being very crisp and solid. For withstanding the
drought also it is of much value.

Good Broccoli in winter.— Last season and
this have been the only two years I have been
able to cut Snow's Winter White at Christmas
from the open ground. I am not so fond of this
variety as Veitch's Self-protecting Autumn Broc-
coli. By sowing this early in April and again a
month later there is a succession, and one is more
independent of Snow's, which is more variable as
to turning in. At page 41 " W. G. C." says
Veitch's Self-protecting never disappointed him.
Such is my experience, and I only wish we had
as reliable varieties for January, February and
March. I admit such varieties as Model and The
Queen are reliable, but these are spring kinds and
equally valuable as the Protecting Autumn variety.
Even these fail in severe winters if not protected.
Unless one can command frames it is useless to
place late kinds in sheds or in a dark place, as
they do not form their heads. " W. G. C." does
not mention Leamington, a self-protc;ting Febru-
ary Broccoli. This I find hardier than others.
Cooling's Matchless is also fine for March, but, as
previously stated, I cannot say they are quite
hardy.— S. M.|

Cauliflower Pearl.— So far I am very pleased
with the behaviour of the young plants of this
variety sown in autumn, and wintered under
glasses and in frames. While many of the
older sorts have already buttoned, not a single
plant of Pearl shows any tendency to do so.
The centres are keeping close and erect — always a
good sign at this period, as if once these commence
to spread out, buttoning prematurely is almost
certain to follow. The plants of Pearl seem also
to be pretty hardy, being very little damaged by
the recent severe frost. This variety comes in
just after Walcheren and Early London, which is
just what is wanted, as when once these early
batches commence to heart in, they do so with a
rush and are soon over. Throughout the spring
and summer a little of Walcheren and Pearl
should be sown at each sowing, half of each being
finally planted out, and thus a succession secured.
—J. C.

Early market Peas.— In market gardens in
this district the first crop3 of Peas are now above
ground. Growers for profit are naturally anxious
to be as early as possible, for one week only
makes at the present time a great difference in
the price. The first consignments will make
about 15s. per bushel, but this high figure cannot,
owing to the enormous acreage given up to Pea
culture now-a-days, be long maintained. In the
course of a fortnight the price will often drop to
less than one-third of that amount. The light
soils of this part of Surrey favour the production
of early Peas, but there is, of course, a great ele-
ment of uncertainty about them. Sometimes
melting snow succeeded immediately by severe
frost will completely ruin large breadths. I have
known one man lose 20 acres in this way. Those
who grow Peas in a large way can afford to specu-
late, and if an early crop fails in this manner,
there is time enough to make a. fresh sowing, and
it is merely an affair of the cost of seed and
labour. Even if the very early sowings pass
safely through the winter they have spring frosts
to contend with. Last season the early crops in
the home counties were to a great extent de-
stroyed, thousands of pounds' worth being lost to

202

THE GARDEN

[March 23, 1895.

the cultivators of this esculent. In a general
way the early part of February is soon enough to
commence sowing, and crops put in at that time
will frequently overtake those sown six weeks
earlier, and in nine cases out of ten the yield will
be more satisfactory. — J. C, Byfleet.

French Beans. — The more of these brought
on under glass the better, as, arriving at matu-
rity in a short time, nothing is better for filling
such a gap as must occur in early outdoor pro-
duce this year. Now that the season is getting
advanced a stove temperature is not needed for
successional batches, so that any intermediate
house where pots or home-made boxes can be
accommodated and placed where the light and
sun can reach them will answer. Ne Plus Ultra
and that good old variety Syon House are, per-
haps, the two best for the purpose. If these
are sown thinly in rather large pots, and judi-
ciously fed as soon as the first pods are formed,
they will continue to yield for a long time. Do
not give much water until growth appears, to
avoid rot. Support with stout branching sticks
when about !) inches high, and if there is any
probability of the haulm out-distancing the sup-
ports, pinch the leads. Fill up the pots or boxes
with soil at the start, leaving no margin for earth-
ing up, as this process, while involving extra
labour, is of no benefit whatever. In order to
keep the foliage free from spider, syringe the
underside freely on fine days. Ne Plus Ultra
may now be sown where more heat is applied in
addition to Syon House, larger pots being used
all round, and more manure added to the soil at
sowing time than is advisable for the earlier
batches.

Forcing Carrots. — The correspondence on the
merits of different varieties for forcing has been
very seasonable and interesting, and I should like
to add one more sort to those already named, as I
believe it has not been mentioned. It is Holborn
Long Forcing, and when it becomes better known
will be in considerable demand, as it combines
great earliness, fine quality, and a desirable shape.
Most of the early Carrots are of the Scarlet Horn
type, but the above is more after the Intermediate
class, and for that reason will be in favour on
many gentlemen's tables. It grows as quickly
as the earliest varieties, and is a decided acquisi-
tion to those gardeners who are expected to supply
long tender roots about the size of a rat's tail for
as long a season as possible. — W. G. C.

tender and very wholesome. Those who have the
opportunity should get a bushel or two of roots
and plant them in a sheltered spot. They will
soon start into growth and will furnish a supply
of succulent greens. Spinach should be sown at
intervals of ten days, and if a good breadth of
Rape is put in there will be something to rely on
till the young Cabbages are ready. Rape is really
a tender, toothsome and wholesome vegetable.
Byfleet. J. C.

Orchids.

GREEN VEGETABLES.
Green vegetables of all kinds will be scarcer this
spring than lias been the cose for many years. I
do not remember to have witnessed such destruc-
tion among winter greens. Brussels Sprouts,
generally so reliable, are quite ruined. Broccoli
has not a particle of life in it, and the hardy Kale
family is so crippled as to be of but little use.
Even Turnip greens, on which one can in a general
way rely for an abundant supply of fresh greens
in early spring, will be scarce, whole fields of
roots being reduced to pulp. What makes the
matter worse is that autumn-planted Cabbages
are either killed off or in such a plight that we
cannot expect much from them. Large breadths
of Peas are complete^ ruined, so that gathering-
will be delayed for several weeks. Those who
have the command of artificial warmth should at
oncesowsome Heartwell Early MarrowCabbage, or
when this convenience does not exist, the seeds may
be raised in a cool greenhouse or sown broadcast
in a frame. The plants, if hardened off and set
out in rich ground, will make rapid progress.
Spring-raised Cabbages will frequently overtake
those put out in autumn, especially if they are
carefully transplanted and watered in dry weather.
They may be set out about 8 inches apart if plenty of
plants are at command, and every other one can
be cut when half grown. This will give a supply
of young greens quite a fortnight sooner than
would be the case if one waits until the plants are
well hearted. Swede greens are by no means to
be despised in a season like this. Though not
so delicate in flavour as Turnip greens, they are

DENDROB1UMS.

One might almost be satisfied with a good col-
lection of these Orchids alone, so varied are
the habits of growth, manner of flowering and
colour of the blossoms. The majority of the
species come from the tropics and may be
accommodated in one house, with a little care in
arrangement and slightly differing treatment
for the various species. The best known of the
genus is that section with cylindrical pseudo-
bulbs of varying length and thickness, from the
tiny growing D. pulchellum to the large and
noble D. Dalhousianum and D. moschatum.
Between these there are many intermediate
forms. Some are evergreen, as D. Brymeri-
anum ; some lose their leaves in autumn, as
D. Bensonke and D. Wardianum ; while others,
such as D. nobile, though not strictly deciduous,
usually lose their leaves the second year. All
these, with the exceptions noted below, require
a brisk moist heat during the growing season
with an abundance of sunlight, the blinds being
let down during the hottest part of the day only.
The house should be closed early during this
period and the blinds drawn up, so that the
temperature rises in the middle of summer to
100" or more, the plants being well syringed
overhead and every available space damped to
cause a thoroughly humid atmosphere, the
moisture settling on the glass and preventing
scorching of the foliage. As soon as possible in
autumn, when the growths are approaching
completion, the shading must be entirely dis-
pensed with and the plants arranged as near
the glass as possible to thoroughly ripen and
consolidate the stems. By the time the last leaf
is produced on such as D. Wardianum the stems
should be hard and scaly in appearance, betoken-
ing that all that is necessary to ensure a bounti-
ful bloom in spring is a long period of dry rest
in a cool house. There should be no hurry in
removing these plants from the house in which
they have been growing. It is far better not to
remove them at all than to do so too early, for
if the temperature is decreased before the
pseudo-bulbs are thoroughly ripened, but few
flowers will be produced, and even these will
not be of good quality. When they are, how-
ever, quite finished the temperature can be
gradually lessened, at the same time reducing
the supply of water at the roots as the leaves
fall, until in winter, when the stems are bare,
little or none will be needed. The evergreen
species with stem-like pseudo-bulbs will not
require quite so much drying in the winter,
otherwise the treatment of these may be iden-
tical with that of the deciduous section. Those with
shorter pseudo-bulbs bearing the leaves chiefly
near the top, as D. densiflorum and D. chry-
sotoxum, will be better arranged a little farther
from the glass, and, although requiring plenty
of light, need not be subjected to such a high
temperature in autumn. These do best during
winter kept in the house in which they are
grown, and should be moderately moist at the
roots all through the season. D. speciosum is
an exception to this rule, as, unless the growth

of this is well ripened, no flowers will be pro-
duced. When the pseudo-bulbs of this kind
are finished the plants may be turned out of
doors for a time and there kept until there is a
danger of early frosts. Our plants are usually
out until the middle of September, with a mat
or some light protection on cold nights, and
these never fail to flower profusely. D. for-
mosum, D. eburneum, D. infundibulum and D.
Jamesianum seem never to rest, and it is best
to let them have their own way, not drying
them much at any season, but watering accord-
ing to the state of growth. The two first-
mentioned species of this— the nigro-hirsute
group — delight in a strong, moist heat and
plenty of sunlight, but the latter kinds are better
kept cool. They will grow with the Odonto-
glossums, but thrive better in a rather higher
temperature, or such as suits the Mexican
Lajlias. They should be grown in small pots,
and nothing stagnant or sour must be allowed
about the roots. By the appearance of the
roots a fairly good idea may be obtained as to
the size of pot or basket and the description of
compost best suited to the various kinds. Take
D. Oevonianum, for instance ; its roots are small
and do not seem inclined to push far in search
of moisture, preferring rather to grow closely
matted together. Clearly a large pot would be
a mistake here, what is required being a small
one, with the compost used in a much finer con-
dition than for D. nobile or D. Brymerianum,
whose roots are larger and more ambitious,
liking a large pot, with good rough lumps of
charcoal, potsherds and turfy peat. There may
be exceptions to this rule, but, taken as a guide,
it will not lead the cultivator far wrong.

R. S.

Sickly Dendrobiums (J. A. Dearden). — If
the temperature has not fallen lower than 45°, the
mischief has undoubtedly been caused by the fogs,
which render the culture of these delicately
textured Orchids yearly more and more difficult
in the vicinity of large manufacturing towns.
This temperature is, however, far too low for
Dendrobiums with flowers so far advanced as
those ycu send, and if accompanied by much
atmospheric moisture would be very detrimental.
Keep the roof glass clean by frequent mopping or
a stream of water from the hose, change the air in
the houses daily and as early in the morning as
possible without lowering the temperature. The
action of the sun upon the plants with the night
moisture about them is often productive of injury
to delicate flowers and young growing shoots, and
if a little air is given early in the morning it
dissipates this and mitigates the evil. — H. R.

Cypripedium villosum aureum. — I have
received a very fine flower of this variety from Mr.
J. Crispin, of Chester Park, Fishponds, near Bris-
tol, who says the plant from which it was cut was
somewhat checked by removal for exhibition.
The flower, nevertheless, measures 5 inches across
the petals, which are broad and of great substance ;
the upper portion of these and the lip are suffused
with bright yellow. The dorsal sepal is ver y much
broader than in the type, measuring about 2 inches
across. The broad, deep purple line extends more
than half-way up, while the ground colour is a
greenish-yellow, fading to white at the apex and
margin. The flower is very massive and this fine
variety possesses all the well-known good points
of the type. A very fine plant of this variety was
recently in bloom in the Hornham Cliff collection,
the flowers being very large and bright in colour.
— H. R.

Goodyera discolor. — This Orchid is admir-
ably adapted for growing in a warm, moist and
shady stove, the leaves taking on a most delightful
velvety sheen, which shows to great advantage
associated with Fittonias and other brightly-
coloured plants of a similar habit. The flowers
are not large, but very pretty, and the spikes
when thrown well up — as on strong plants

March 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

203

they would be— are very attractive at a dull
season, i.e., from December onwards to April.
The flowers are pure white, with a yellow column ;
the leaves broad at the base, rounded, and
tapering to a point. They are green on the upper
surface, with a silvery-white midrib, the under-
side being reddish or purple. Few Orchids are
more easily propagated than this. If a couple of
good stock plants in large pans can be procured
they may be cut over biennially and a good stock
gradually worked up. The growths may be taken
oft' with as many roots as possible attached, at the
same time leaving as much as convenient of the
rhizome to produce breaks for another season.
These may be placed in pots or pans of varying
sizes, from six to eight being placed in the S-inch
size, with less or more for smaller or larger pots.
These may be placed in a brisk, moist heat in the
stove or in a propagating case not kept too close.
Water must be carefully given until the roots are
beginning to run in the compost ; afterwards a
good supply will be necessary, as the plants grow
quickly and require plenty of nutriment. The
compost should consist of equal parts of good peat,
fibrous loam and chopped Sphagnum Moss, with
enough finely-broken potsherds to prevent close-
ness. In the winter the plants must be kept
somewhat drier at the root, but not sufficiently so
to cause injury to the foliage. — H. R.

GALEANDRAS.

This genus of deciduous terrestrial Orchids is
not represented in our collections so much as, it
really deserves, for although there are some
species possessing but little beauty, there are
also some with lovely blossoms. Galeandras are
closely allied to Eulophias and Lissochilus,
the principal distinction being in the formation
of the lip, which is contracted into a broad
funnel-shaped spur. There are not more than
about half a dozen species kuown to cultivation,
and these are all natives of Tropical America ;
therefore they require strong heat and plenty of
moisture to grow them successfully in our
gardens. Whilst in active growth these plants
thrive best in the East India house, where they
should be supplied witli plenty of water at the
roots and the atmosphere well charged with
moisture. When the flowers appear, a cooler
and drier temperature, such as that of the
Cattleya house, will suit them best, and
where they should be allowed to remain for a
period of rest. Being deciduous plants, the
leaves turn yellow and drop off in the autumn,
and as soon as the foliage commences to
change colour water must be gradually
diminished, and only sufficient given to keep
the bulbs in a plump and healthy condition.
Naturally these plants grow in well-decayed
leaf-mould, but the best results can be ob-
taiued by using a compost consisting of good
fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss to which
should be added some good decomposed leaf-
mould. The pots should be thoroughly drained,
and when repotted the plants should be elevated
somewhat above the rim. Galeandras have
been found somewhat difficult to cultivate,
which is no doubt the cause of their not find-
ing so much favour as many other kinds of
Orchids. They require great attention through-
out the year, especially in watering and keeping
clean, for whilst in growth the foliage is very
susceptible to the attacks of red spider and
thrips, which cause much damage if not quickly
removed. The finest species in this genus is
certainly

G. Devoniaxa, a native of the banks of the
Rio Negro. It there attains a height of 5 feet and
(i feet, but under cultivation it seldom reaches
much above 2 feet high. The pseudo-bulbs
are slender and erect, clothed in a young state
with lanceolate sheathing leaves. The peduncle

appears from the top of the stem, and supports a
pendent raceme of flowers which individually
measure about 4 inches across. These will last a
long time in full beauty. The sepals and petals
are of a purplish brown colour, usually striped
and margined with light green, the tube-like
lip white, striped with purple, and forming a
handsome contrast to the other dark segments.
This fine plant was first discovered by Schom-
burgk upwards of sixty years ago, but it was not
until about thirteen or fourteen years later that
living plants arrived in this country.

G. Baceri. — A very rare and desirable plant.
This is the typical species upon which the
genus was established by Dr. Lindley. It grows
to nearly 2 feet in height, and is furnished with
fine lanceolate foliage. The flowers are pro-
duced on a drooping inflorescence, the sepals and
petals being brownish yellow, whilst the lip is
yellow, lined with reddish brown. It was first
introduced about 1840 by Messrs. Loddiges, of
Hackney.

G. nivalis. — This is also a very desirable and
rare plant, which appears to have first flowered in
the collection of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart.,
about thirteen years ago. It is also a native of
Tropical America and of very dwarf stature, the
pseudo-bulbs not growing above a foot in height.
The flowers each measure about 2 inches across,
the sepals and petals being of a brownish green,
whilst the lip is white, with a small purplish blotch
in the centre of the base.

G. Batemasi. — A very dwarf growing and dis-
tinct plant, which was introduced from Mexico
over fifty years ago. It has also been since
found in Guatemala. The plant grows to a height
of about 0 inches and is furnished with very long
leaves, the raceme being similarly produced as in
the other species, terminal, and many-flowered.
The sepals and petals are similar and of an olive
greenish colour ; the large lip is purplish rose
with a white margin. Wm. Hugh Gowkk.

Coelogyne cristata alba. — The pure white
form of this well-known Orchid is not nearly so
rare as formerly, but one does not often come
across such a fine plant as is now in flower at
Hornham Cliff. The plant in question is in a large
wooden basket, and is carrying upwards of a dozen
spikes, each bearing from four to six of the beautiful
pure white blossoms. Other noteworthy Orchids
in flower here are Odontoglossum crispum, a good
variety 4 inches across, the sepals and petals
broad, and of the purest glistening white ; Den-
drobium primulinum, a fine specimen covered with
flowers ; I). Ainsworthi, and among other varieties
of D. nobile. a fine plant of D. nobile pendulum,
well flowered, but, unfortunately, tied up so that
its elegant pendulous habit could not be seen.
The flowers of this last are very bright magenta
with a deep purple blotch on the labellum.

Oncidium Cavendishianum. — The spikes of
this species are not so graceful as some others in
the genus, but its very distinct appearance, com-
bined with its free-flowering habit and the fact
that it blossoms during the winter months are all
points in its favour. The species produces no
pseudo-bulbs, but grows in tufts of healthy-look-
ing, deep green leaves, from the bases of which
the racemes spring. The individual blossoms are
upwards of an inch in diameter and thickly pro-
duced upon the long branching racemes. They
are golden yellow, with spots of chestnut-red.
O. carthaginense and O. roseum are occasionally
met with under the name of Cavendishianum, but
they are quite distinct kinds. A nice form of the
golden-lipped variety was in flower in the Horn-
ham Cliff collection recently. O. Cavendishianum
thrives well in pots, with rather a shallow compost
consisting largely of Sphagnum Moss, and should
be carefully watered during the winter. It thrives
best in a light position in the Cattleya house and
lasts many weeks in full beauty.

Odontoglossum Harryanum. — This fine
Orchid is now plentiful enough to be represented
in all collections, and its unique characters and
undoubted merits entitle it to this distinction. It

is a native of the United States of Colombia,
whence Messrs. Horsman and Co., of Colchester,
first received it in 1886. This was, however, a
small importation only, it being found in quantity
soon after by Messrs. Sander, of St. Albans. O.
Harryanum, although not difficult to grow, is one
of those species that when in good health it is wise
to keep it so, for if once the plants get out of con-
dition they are a long while recovering. It dis-
likes disturbance at the root, and, in repotting, a
compost that will not become sour should be used.
The pots should be clean and well drained and just
large enough to take the plants easily. One part
of good peat fibre to two of Sphagnum Moss with
plenty of finely broken crocks will suit it well,
and the base of the leading pseudo-bulbs must be
kept a little above the rims. When first imported
it should be given a place in the Cattleya house.
Even when established it likes a rather higher
temperature than the crispum section, although
this is not absolutely necessary. I recently saw
a very fine plant of this species growing in a house
that occasionally fell during the recent severe
weather to 40°, and in summer is kept as cool as
possible by free ventilation and shading, a house,
in fact, wherein the coolest section of the genus
does well. The flowers, produced on long
racemes, are each from 4 inches to 5 inches
across and delicately scented. Sometimes these
do not open well, but this is probably owing to
weakness, as it is most frequent in plants out of
health. The sepals are brown with greenish
yellow bars and spots, the petals similar in ground
colour, but more freely marked. The lip is quite
distinct from that of any other Odontoglot, being
large, pure white, marked with blue lines, and
with a good deal of yellow about the crest. It
flowers at various seasons of the year, and the oft-
repeated advice respecting leaving the flowers on
the plants too long is specially applicable to this
species. — R.

The Cattleya grub. — As I have heard several
complaints as to the prevalence of this pest this
season and also seen its depredations in several
collections of Orchids, it may not be out of place
to warn inexperienced cultivators to be on the
look-out for it and to at once sacrifice the leads
that are attacked. No good purpose can be served
by leaving them on, but a good deal of mischief
may on the other hand be caused, not only on
account of the grub itself, but because the longer
they are left the less likelihood there is of obtain-
ing good breaks from the affected pseudo-bulbs.
The presence of the grub is easily seen by the
club-shaped growth, abnormally swollen at the
base and pointed at the apex. Newly -imported
plants, or those of the second year, appear to suffer
most, and all the labiata section seem to be espe-
cially subject to it. Some growers are in the
habit of fumigating for this pest, others burn
lights in the houses to attract the female fly, but
it is questionable whether any good results accrue.
Prompt action in removing and burning all
affected growths, in bad cases taking the plants
out of the pots and washing every part in tepid
water, are the likeliest means of extermination.
— R.

THE SCARLET L.ELIAS.

Though taking this as a heading, I am thinking
more particularly of two capital examples of
La;lia harpophylla of which cut spikes were sent
to the last R.H.S. Drill Hall meeting. It is a
matter of regret that this showy species is not
more plentiful, for it is certainly one of the best
when well managed. The two spikes above re-
ferred to seem to point to there being two forms,
one being quite a major variety. The rich glowing
orange-scarlet flowers, practically self-coloured, are
at this season a decided acquisition, lasting a con-
siderable time in good condition. It is not one of
the most attractive plants when out of flower, but
this is not everything. Being of only moderate
growth it should be kept well elevated above the
pot so that the air can act in a more favourable
manner. It is no' so compact in its habit as L.
cinnabarina, but the flower-scape is much shorter,

204

THE GARDEN.

[March 23, 1895.

nor has it been so long in cultivation, having
been introduced about 1873. L. cinnabarina,
on the other hand, has been in cultivation some
sixty years, yet this is, like Ladia harpophylla, far
from common. It forms a good succession to L.
harpophylla. I have seen it frequently in good
condition in May. Mr. Geo. Baker when gardener
to Mr. Ambrose Bassett at Stamford Hill used to
show it in fine condition in May, and I have also
noted it in June also. Its flower-scapes are fre-
quently more than 18 inches in length, the blos-
soms, clustered towards the apex, being, relatively
speaking, smaller than those of L. harpophylla.
Only a year or two since it received a first-class
certificate from the Orchid committee of the
R.H.S. L. flammea is a scarce hybrid between
L. cinnabarina and L. Pilcheri, being thus a hy-
brid of the second descent, the latter parent
being itself a hybrid between L. Perrini and L.
(Cattleya) crispa. L. flammea is also known as L.
Veitchi ; thus its origin is easily detected. It has
the sepals and petals of a most vivid orange-
scarlet with a crimson-purple lip, thus showing
its descent from L. crispa. L. flava is more
strictly speaking a yellow species, but it belongs
to the same section, "being similar to L. cinnabarina,
but dwarfer. L. monophylla is quite a dwarf
species, having relatively small flowers
with orange-scarlet sepals and petals, also
the labellum. This species is from Ja-
maica, whereas the others are of Brazilian
origin. L. xanthina, a summer flowering
species, has blooms of an orange shade as
large as those of L. cinnabarina and
flowers in a similar manner. This section
of Lselias is well worthy of more atten-
tion than is at present given it.

Orchis.

Laslia superbiens. — A nice piece of
this grand species is at present in flower
in the Cambridge Lodge collection, where
it appears to thrive well, this being the
third spike of bloom it has produced in
less than two years. The individual
blooms measure nearly 6 inches in dia-
meter, and in this plant the flowers ap-
pear to be very pale, being of a light rose.
The lip is deeper in colour than the other
segments and veined with purple, the
throat yellow. This species was intro-
duced by the Royal Horticultural Society
in 1842, but it appears to have been first
discovered by Mr. Ure- Skinner about
three years previously in Guatemala. — W.

Ccelog-yne cristata alba. — This
lovely variety of Cn-logyne has become
more plentiful during recent years.
Unfortunately it is of a more straggling habit
than the typical form, and therefore does
not make such a well-shaped plant. During
the present season several well-flowered plants
have been noticed, but the finest specimen
I have ever seen is now blooming in the Cam-
bridge Lodge collection, Camberwell, where a
fine piece measuring upwards of 4 feet through
is carrying twenty-nine fine spikes of five and
six blooms each. This plant is grown in quite
a cool temperature throughout the year in the
same structure as Lycaste Skinneri, and where
the ventilators are always wide open during fine
weather, thus proving that it is not necessary to
give these Orchids such strong heat as is often
recommended. — W.

Cypripedium concolor.— This species and its
allied kinds have in many instances suffered
severely during the past winter in many of our
collections through having been placed upon
shelves near the glass where the frost has reached
them. This would not have happened had the
plants been kept in a perfectly dry state. I
recently saw a fine batch of C. niveum, C. con-
color and C. bellatulum, which had been wintered
in a cool house where the ice was inside the house
within a couple of inches of the plants. These,
however, had been kept dust-dry, and had not
received any water from the beginning of Decem-

ber until about a fortnight ago. They certainly
looked none the worse for having been kept dry.
In some cases where the plants were kept in a
moist condition they were entirely killed, and in
others the excess of moisture upon the leaves has
left very visible effects. It will be interesting to
hear later in the season what effect this severe
drying off will have upon the flowering.— G.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Dendrobium Wardianum album. — One of

the finest forms of the pure white variety comes from
Mr. Broome, of Llandudno. The flower is large and
of good substance, with a yellow throat, the two small
spots at the base beiog very faint, the remaining por-
tion of the flower of the purest white. It is the best
white form I have yet seen. — G.

Lycaste Skinneri alba. — Amongst pure white
Orchids in flower at the Forest Hill Nurseries is a
charming variety of this. The plant here referred to
is of fine form and good substance, the flowers pure
white, saving the lemon-yellow tinge ou the throat. A
small piece of Ccelogyne cristata alba was also very
noticeable for the large number of flowers on it. — W.

Dendrobium rhodostomum. — I lately noticed

Stove and Greenhouse.

CAMELLIAS CASTING THEIR BUDS.

The early months of the year are very trying for
Camellias, and it is during this period that many
buds fall. There is more than one cause for bud-
dropping, but it does not often occur with plants
that have their roots in good condition. When
the whole collection suffers in this way it is a sure
sign that the treatment generally is wrong. I
have seen a whole houseful of Camellias which
were full of buds at the commencement of the
winter and in robust health almost flowerless
when they ought to have been full of bloom. This
was caused by too high a temperature being
maintained during the dull months. Camellias
are very impatient of artificial heat, and, unlike
Azaleas and some other hard-wooded things, can-
not be forced into bloom. It is not safe to exceed
a night temperature of 50" from November till
March, and a rise of 5° in the daytime in sunless
weather is quite enough. When bud-dropping is
confined to certain plants it will generally be
found that their roots are in a more or less in-
active condition. This may be caused by over-

A led of Carnations (Ketton Rose) at Buhoick, 1894.

a plant of this Veitchian hybrid in flower. It is a cross
between D. Huttoni and D. sanguinolentum. The
flowers measure fully 2 inches in diameter, the petals
broader than the sepals, both white, tipped with
purplish-crimson, the lip also marked like the other
segments, but with a larger blotch and a maroon disc
on the throat. — W.

Cypripedium Ashburtonise expansum. —

This is one of the most beautiful Cypripediums, the
dorsal sepal broad and very flat, ot an apple-green
colour and veined with brown, with an exceedingly
broad margin of pure white. The whole surface is
beautifully spotted with deep brown, the petals
sparingly spotted with dark warts. A fine variety is
now in flower with Mr. R. J. Measures at Camberwell.
— G.

A fine Odontog-lossum crispum. — WTill you
kindly inform me the name of the Odontoglossum
crispum I now send? I fancy the variety is
unique. I have never seen a crispum with such
pure and beautifully white sepals and petals. I
bought the plant two years ago and it has now
flowered for the first time. — W. Marshall.

*„* The flower sent is a very refined form of
0. crispum, viz., 0. c. virginale. It is not unique
by any means, but still not common and well
worth taking care of. The flower lacks width in
the petals and substance, but this latter may be
due to its having been open a long time. It is,
nevertheless, a chaste and beautiful form. — H. R.

potting, unsuitable compost, or injudicious water-
ing. Plants thus affected should be marked and
examined when done blooming. In the case of
medium-sized specimens this is an easy matter, as
by turning them out of the pot the condition of
the roots can be ascertained. If these are not
numerous and black at the tips, as much of
the old soil as possible should be worked away,
replacing in a pot just large enough to contain
the roots, and using a compost of tine peat with
plenty of white sand in it. With careful watering
fresh healthy roots will quickly be made and the
plants will take a fresh lease of life. This simple
operation will frequently suffice to restore lost
vigour and prevent bud-dropping. Camellias do
not need much pot room, and should never be re-
potted unless the soil is quite filled with roots. I
have known plants to remain without change of
soil for ten years and every season give a full crop
of bloom. These root-bound specimens require,
however, good attention in the matter of watering.
Plants of this description often cast a portion or
the whole of their buds through the soil not being
quite moist enough when the buds are swelling.
Enough water should be given when necessary to
throughly soak the ball of earth. In the case of
such root-bound specimens, unless some of the
moisture escapes from the drainage hole, enough
has not been given. It is a curious fact that

March 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

205

■weakly Camellias are apt to form a quantity of
buds. If these are all allowed to remain it will
frequently happen that not a single one expanus.
Early in autumn such plants should be disbudded,
leaving one bud only to a shoot. J. C.

Bignonia venusta. — This is a lovely creeper,
and one that should be planted where shade in an
intermediate house is required. The specimen at
Syon House rarely fails to flower profusely, and
is very beautiful tor a roof when allowed to fall
down in festoons, and there is no severe tying in
of the growths. To show how well this plant will
thrive in a low temperature, I may remark that
the temperature of the house in which it grows
has often been under 50°, and at the roof much
lower, the house being lofty. It grows freely,
producing its funnel-shaped, long-lasting flowers
in quantity. When grown in stoves, as often
advised, it does not thrive so veil, being very
subject to thrips and red spider. Given, how-
ever, a warm greenhouse, it succeeds with little
trouble and is a pleasing object. The plant at
Syon House is probably the oldest in the country.
— Visitor.

Pleroma maeranthum at Kew. — The value
of this plant at Kew has frequently been noted in
The Garden. We have few plants which bloom
at this season so freely and of a similar colour,
the rich purple-blue flowers being very handsome,
a succession being produced on the same shoot.
This old plant was formerly known as Lasiandra
macrantha, and was often recommended as a suit-
able subject to cover a wall or pillar in the stove,
but I do not advise this treatment. At Kew it is
blooming freely in the greenhouse, the flowers
being more lasting and more freely produced in
this way. There is less trouble, too, with insect
pests. Grown as a bush it is very effective and
far better than long straggling plants without any
leaves at tho base. To obtain flowering plants in
6-inch pots, cuttings, taken off now with a heel,
struck in bottom heat in a sandy compost, three
in a 3-inch pot, and potted on when rooted,
using more loam at the last shift, if grown in
cold frames during the summer will flower all
through the winter in a temperature of 55°. —
Visitor.

Zonal Pelargoniums f">r winter.— I read
with interest the notes on these and other soft-
wooded plants for winter flowering by E. Burrell
(p. 103). He names a few zonals which he finds most
suitable for winter blooming. I give a few which I
find suitable, viz., F. V. Raspail, Mme. Thibaut,
Guillion Mangilli, Richard Dean, Imogene, Zelia,
W. H. Williams, Mme. Leon Dolly, Lotus, and a
semi-double variety which I do not know the name
of. I cannot speak well of Queen of the Belgians
as a winter bloomer. I prefer striking the cuttings
in autumn in preference to the spring, as I find by
so doing a better foundation is laid. I do not agree
with E. Burrell when he says that the summer
quarters for these plants should be pits from which
Potatoes, &c.,have been lifted, and that the Pelar-
goniums should be shaded in hot weather. I
would not shade zonals were it not to preserve the
blooms. After having been finally potted, my
plants are stood out with the Chrysanthemums
where they get the full sun three parts of the day.
When the pots are full of roots the plants receive a
little liquid manure about twice a week, all blooms
being picked oil' till the plants are housed in the
autumn. A good batch of Primula obconica is
useful during the winter months associated with
the other things mentioned at page 103. I prefer
sowing a pinch of seed each spring with the
Chinese Primulas to dividing the old plants. —
R. Nailor, Rvgby.

Thyrsacanthus rutilans.— This is one of the
good old-fashioned plants that have been in many
cases ousted from their position in the garden by
less meritorious subjects. In many places, how-
ever, they still find a home, and their beauty is
much appreciated. At Burford Lodge many un-
common but desirable plants are well done, as
may be seen at the meetings of the R.H.S., for
Orchids are by no means the only subjects grown

by Sir Trevor Lawrence in his Surrey garden.
From thence was sent to the meeting of the R. H. S.
on February 12 a specimen of Thyrsacanthus
rutilans which was greatly admired, and de-
servedly so, as the pendulous racemes of bright
crimson tubular-shaped blossoms are very unlike
those of any other occupant of our houses. From
the way the flowers are produced it must be
grown as a standard, for it is only in this manner
that the drooping clusters of blossoms are seen at
their best. Cuttings are easily struck in the
spring, and should be grown on freely during the
season. The same plants may be kept and flowered
in a satisfactory manner for years. This Thyrsa-
canthus needs the temperature of a stove in the
winter, but during the summer months artificial
heat can be dispensed with. According to the
" Dictionary of Gardening," the correct name of this
plant is T. Schomburgkianus, introduced from
Grenadain 1855 and known ingardensasT.rutilans,
the true T. rutilans being a native of Colombia,
from whence it was introduced in 1851. The
genus Thyrsacanthus is one of the Acanthads,
and it is singular how much the members of this
order, despite their showy blossoms, are neglected
in gardens. Perhaps this is to some extent owing
to the fact that they are unfitted for use in a cut
state, as they so quickly drop under such treat-
ment.—H. P.

Ceanothuses under glass. — It is now several
years since I first saw some of the forms of
Ceanothus brought on under glass and employed
for the embellishment of the greenhouse, and
though they are seldom used in this way, yet they
supply a colour but little represented among plants
in bloom either in the stove or greenhouse, while
among forced shrubs they stand out by them-
selves. Some flowering examples of Ceanothus
dentatus and C. Veitchianus are now in No. 4
greenhouse at Kew, and their bright blue blossoms,
although not particularly numerous, are very dis-
tinct and pleasing. Certainly greater use might
be made of them in this way, for their neat growth
and deep green foliage render them, irrespective
of blossoms, decidedly ornamental. If grown for
flowering in pots, a neat, bushy habit of growth
should be the object aimed at, and the plants
should, of course, be grown in the full sunshine in
order to induce the formation of flower buds. The
best examples I have ever seen were some bushes
of C. Veitchianus, that were kept altogether in
pots, and plunged out of doors during the summer
months. If lifted from the open ground in the
autumn and needed for flowering in the following
spring, the plants should be potted as soon as
possible in order to encourage tho formation of
roots before winter sets in. — T.

WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS FOR THE
CONSERVATORY.

Acacia Drummondi flowering in 5J-inch pots is
at the present time a pleasing object, the soft
saffron tint of its Bottle-brush-shaped blooms
when borne in quantity being very effective. The
culture is simple, and by stopping at intervals
good bushy specimens may be obtained in small
pots. These plants will come into flower during
January and February. Pimelea spectabilis is a
very old introduction, but is now-a-days seldom
seen. It bears umbels of white flowers about 2
inches in diameter at the end of the shoots, of
which in dwarf well-grown specimens there
should be from twenty to thirty. This Pimelea,
with P. Nieppergiana, a pretty but rather smaller-
flowered species, is now in bloom in the green-
house, and constitutes a welcome change from the
ordinary occupants of the shelves at the present
season. Chorozema Lowi should be grown in
every garden where a bright conservatory is
needed at this time of the year. Small plants with
their shoots smothered in flowers are easily ob-
tainable, and the effect of the brilliant Pea-like
blossoms is enhanced by the deep green of the
prickly Holly-like leaves. The blooms last a long
while in perfection, and well-flowered sprays are
very valuable for indoor decoration. Boronia

heterophylla is a charming winter-flowering plant,
its slender branches being studded with carmine
blooms somewhat the shape of the individual bell
of the Lily of the Valley, though lacking its
spreading rim. But perhaps B. megastigma — on
account of its delicate perfume called by some the
violet-scented Boronia — is to be preferred, for
though its flowers are inconspicuous, one plant is
capable of filling a room or small conservatory
with its delicious odour. All the foregoing sub-
jects are easily grown and do best in a compost of
peat and sand. Cytisus racemosus with its wealth
of clear yellow flowers is now indispensable in the
conservatory. Young plants are the most satis-
factory both in length of raceme and quantity of
bloom, and if well attended to during the earlier
stages of growth shapely specimens can be pro-
duced with but little trouble. This Cytisus is not
particular as to soil, loam, leaf-mould and sand
suiting it well. In Devonshire it grows out of
doors without protection all the year round, but
it is never so valuable as in the conservatory
during the first two months of the year.

_ S. W. F.

Begonia semperflorens gigantea. — We
have now a great number of widely diverse forms
of Begonia semperflorens in cultivation, but the
bold-growing kinds to which the name of gigantea
has been applied owe their origin to the inter-
crossing of that species with the Mexican B.
Lynchiana, first distributed under the specific name
of Roezli, and as such a coloured plate of it was
given in The Garden, August 25, 1883. M.
Lemoine was, I believe, the first to cross these
two Begonias — at all events, he was the first to
put the progeny thereof into commerce. The
plants are of a strong, bold habit of growth, more
nearly partaking in this respect of the character
of B. Lynchiana than of their other parent. The
continuous blooming qualities of this strong-
growing strain is a great point in favour of the
members of it, as if needed they could, by growing
on successional batches, bo had in flower all the
year round. It is, however, in autumn, winter,
and early spring that the blossoms are most valu-
able, and at any time, but more especially during
the dull season, a bold group of flowering examples
forms a very ornamental feature in the greenhouse
or conservatory. The flowers are borne in large,
massive clusters, so that even though the plants
are somewhat liable to run up without branching
much, they must not be stopped too freely, other-
wise the clusters will be much smaller and a good
deal of the distinctive features lost. — H. P.

Boronia heterophylla.— This has deservedly
become within the last few years one of the most
popular hard-wooded plants that we have, and no
wonder, for it is not difficult to grow, and its beau-
tiful brightly coloured blossoms are borne in great
profusion. The flowers are not so fragrant as
those of B. megastigma ; still they emit a very
pleasing perfume, which must be enjoyed without
disturbing the plant, as the leaves if agitated in
any way have a heavy, disagreeable smell, which
is by no means desirable. The blossoms of this
remain fresh and bright for a long time if shaded
from the hottest sun, and this is a great point in
favour of this Boronia. The sober-tinted B. mega-
stigma must on no account be passed over, as its
little bell-shaped blossoms, delicately poised on
slender stems, are so fragrant, that a single bloom
can for this reason be detected for some little dis-
tance. Its scent, too, seems to be admired by
nearly everyone, which is not always the case
with flowers remarkable for their fragrance. While
noticing the above-named species of Boronia, the
merits of such as B. serrulata and B. elatior must
not be overlooked. The two last flower some-
what later than the others mentioned. — T.

Begonia manicata. — Some three years ago
when a Begonia conference was held at Chiswick
several papers were read on the subject, among
others one of especial interest by Mr. Watson, of
Kew, in which he enumerated the best fifty species
of Begonia, and as there are about 400 species
known to botanists, it is evident that it was

20G

THE GARDEN.

[Mabch 23, 1895.

necessary to reject many in compiling that
list. B. manicata finds a place therein, and
deservedly so, for it is just now one of the most
ornamental species we have, its pink flowers being
borne in great profusion. This Begonia is not
seen at its best when grown as a small plant, that
is in a pot 5 inches in diameter, but as a large
specimen it is very effective. This is owing to the
fact that the individual blossoms are but small,
and though borne in considerable numbers on
loose branching panicles, they do not make much
of a display when only two or three flower-spikes
are borne on a plant, but a large specimen bear-
ing a great number of flowers forms a very orna-
mental object in the cool end of the stove or the
intermediate house. The stems of this species are
short and of a stout, succulent nature, while the
smooth shining green leaves are decidedly orna-
mental. A singular appearance is presented by
peculiar fleshy scale-like hairs of a brownish
colour, which are freely borne on the undersides
of the leaves and also on the leaf-stalks. There is
a variegated form of this, aureo-maculata, in which
the leaves bear large blotches of yellow, but it is
not very constant, and even at its best I prefer the
ordinary green type. B. manicata was introduced
from Mexico in 1S42.— H. P.

CYCLAMENS AT HORNHAM CLIFF.

As usual at this season, there is a very fine display
of Cyclamens at Hornham Cliff, Salisbury, the
residence of Capt. H. Greenwood. About 250
plants are grown, and these, although not large,
are models of careful and skilful culture. The
foliage is bright, large and prettily marbled, in
some cases almost hiding the pots, and the plants
are literally covered with bloom. Hundreds of
buds will apparently prolong the flowering season
until far into April or May. The varieties are
chiefly of the giganteum strain, the Giant Crimson
and Giant White being remarkably good flowers.
They are large, the former deep crimson-lake in
colour, the latter of the purest white, the flowers
very full, owing to the great width and substance
of the petals which are well thrown back. Be-
sides these and other self-coloured flowers there
are many with a deeper colour at the base, one
with flowers bright salmon-pink above and deep
purple below, being very striking and a novel
break. Vulcan is bright rich crimson, not so
large as the giant strain, but very free and of a
good habit. White Butterfly has the segments
spreading when partly open, and is in this state
charming, while when fully open they are recurved
as in the other kinds. Mr. Robey prefers sowing
the seed at the end of January rather than in late
autumn, and though some may be inclined to
dispute this point, the results attained abundantly
testify to the wisdom of the course pursued. His
reason is that the plants are more easily kept
growing, and all who have had experience in Cy-
clamen growing know how important a point this
is, how easily the plants are checked and the mis-
chief that is thereby caused. The seed is sown in
6-inch pots in rich, light, loamy soil and placed in
a propagating case. As soon as the young plants
have made about three leaves they are placed
in 3-inch pots and arranged in low frames as
close to the glass as possible. They are en-
couraged to grow freely, a moist genial tempera-
ture being always kept up about them, and they
are never allowed to get dry at the roots. The
frames are carefully ventilated and shaded during
the summer months and the plants placed in their
flowering pots in August. These will vary in size
from 5 inches to S inches according to the size of the
plants. Mr. Robey is not in favour of the plant-
ing-out system, but prefers to keep the plants in
pots all through the season. The compost used
consists of a third good sound loam, an equal
quantity of partly decayed leaf soil, a sixth part
each of peat and dried cow manure, with a good
sprinkling of clean, coarse silver sand. After
potting, the plants are returned to the frame, kept
rather closer for a time, and watered sparingly
until the roots are again on the move. As soon
as these touch the sides of the pots liquid

manure is supplied, well diluted at first, increasing
the strength by degrees as the plants advance
into flower. The plants are not kept after the
second year, as the younger seedlings are found
to be much more vigorous, quite as free-flowering,
and in all ways more satisfactory. R.

FEBRUARY IN SOUTH DEVON.

During the month of February the temperature
on the grass fell on every night of the twenty-
eight below the freezing point, and on March 1
frost had been recorded for the thirty-five days
immediately preceding. The greatest amount of

has amounted to but 0-01 of an inch during the
month, being 2'73 inches below the average of the
last sixteen years and 1 "71 inches below the record
for February, 1894. Curiously enough, the rain-
fall for February, 1891 — the blizzard year — was
exactly similar to this year's measurement, viz.,
Old of an inch, though the sunshine experienced
at that time of exceptional fair weather was far
in excess of the average. The rain measured
during the two past months amounts to 4'11
inches, as against 6'21 inches recorded during the
two first months of last year. At every change of
the moon a change in the weather was hoped for,
but the moon brought nothing but disappoint-
ment. On the 24th an alteration seemed imminent.

Border in lower garden at Bulwich.

frost registered was 15°' on the 12th. The mean
temperature of the month gave 9° belowthe average
of the last sixteen years. The wind blew from the
north or east — and generally with considerable
force — for twenty-three days, its total horizontal
movement, as indicated by the anemometer, being
7700 miles, the greatest hourly velocity being re-
corded on the 4th, when between the hours of
7 p.m. and 8 p.m. a rate of 29 miles per hour was
reached.

The sun has shone during 83 hours 55 minutes
(this being 1 hour 40 minutes above the average)
against 89 hours in February, 1894. The sunniest
day was the 28th, when 9 hours 40 minutes, or
9L6 per cent, of the possible sunshine for the
day, was recorded. Rainfall, or rather snowfall,

The morning was sunny and warm, and the wind,
for the first time for many weeks, came out of the
west. The moon was to change that afternoon,
and the weather- change so confidently predicted
seemed well-nigh assured, when in the afternoon,
in a rain-squall from the clouds that had banked
up on the horizon, the wind flew into the north-
west, and by nightfall had steadily worked its way
round to the frozen north again, and by the next
morning 8° of frost had been registered on the
thermometer. Great havoc has been worked
amongst tender shrubs and plants in the gardens,
but of these losses it is well not to speak until the
genial spring weather — which must arrive ere long
— shall give us the opportunity of compiling a
correct list of the killed and wounded, at what

Match 23, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

20*

time we hold our annual roll-call. Of flowers
there have been practically none, with the ex-
ception of a few Snowdrops, Crocuses and Winter
Aconites, which in sheltered corners found them-
selves standing a-shiver, with no possibility of
retreat, in the bitter wind. S. W. F.

Societies /nd Exhibitions.

ROYAL BOTANIC.

Makch 20.
The first show of the present year was held on
Wednesday, but, owing to the backward state of
the season, there was a falling off in the number
and extent of the exhibits. Miscellaneous groups
added greatly to the extent and interest of the
display. In one of the chief classes, that for a
collection of hardy herbaceous plants, Mr. T. S.
Ware, the only exhibitor, was awarded first prize.
He had a charming selection, the best among them
being Primula cashmeriana, P. rosea, and P.
denticulata alba, Dog's-tooth Violets, Muscari
botryoides in blue and white, the Carpathian
Snowflake, Trillium grandifloium, Sanguinaria
canadensis, and numbers of Saxifraga Burseriana,
perfect tufts of pure white blossoms, making an
admirable finish to the front of the group. Mr.
R. Scott, gardener to Miss Poster, The Holme,
Regent's Park, was first for a group of greenhouse
Azaleas, the second prize lot coming from Mr. H.
Eason, gardener to Mr. B. Noakes, Hope Cottage,
Highgate. The only group of Cyclamens was from
Mr. T. Pestridge, Boston Park Nursery, Brentford,
to which the first prize was awarded. The plants
were profusely flowered. Mr. Douglas secured
first prize for twelve pots of Polyanthus Narcissus,
the same for twelve Hyacinths, and for twelve
Tulips. He showed fine varieties in grand form.
A selection of the best will be found in the re-
port of the Crystal Palace show. The best group
of Amaryllises came from Mr. H. Perkins, gar-
dener to the Hon. F. W. D. Smith, Henley on -
Thames. There were some fine kinds, especially
Charles Pcnnj', deep rich crimson, and Countess
of Arran, light red. Mr. J. Douglas was second.
Crocuses grown and shown in wide shallow pots
made a brilliant display. A magnificent lot that
obtained the first prize came from Mr. R. Scott.
White Queen, pure white ; Margot, light fea-
thered lilac-blue ; Purpureus grandiflorus, deep
self purple ; Albion, and Sir Walter Scott were
all very good. Mr. Douglas was second. For a
group of Deutzias, Mr. Douglas was first with
a fine even lot of plants most profuse in blossom.
The only lot of Lily of the Valley came from Mr.
Scott, and was awarded first prize.

Among the miscellaneous contributions the
group from Messrs. B. S. Williams and Son was
very conspicuous. Clivias were a strong feature,
two new varieties, Firefly and Model, the former
bright red and the latter a softer shade of the
same colour, showing distinct advances upon older
kinds. Dendrobium nobile albiflorum, Cypripe-
dium Williamsianum, C. Chamberlainianum, C.
Boxalli atratum, C. Morgani.x', Miltonia Roezli
and its white form, Vanda tricolor, V. suavis,
Cymbidium eburneum, and Calanthe Sanderiana
were the best among many Orchids well shown.
Boronia megastigma in quantity diffused its
pleasant fragrance. A silver medal was awarded.
Messrs. Williams also exhibited floral designs,
baskets of red Anthurium with white Lilac, and
pirk Roses mingled with dark crimson Carnations
being noteworthy. This exhibit also received a
silver medal. Messrs. W. Paul and Son, of Wal-
tham Cross, were awarded a silver medal for a
good collection of Camellias in pots and cut
blooms, also Rose Duke of York and other new-
kinds. A beautiful group of flowering and fine-
foliaged plants was arranged by Messrs. J. Laing,
Palms, Crotons, Caladiums, and Dracienas being
intermixed with Lycastes, Dendrobiums and Catt-
leyas. Clivias, Begonias and other flowering plants
added to the beauty and effectiveness of the ex-
hibit. A silver medal was awarded. A small.

but very interesting group of new and rare plants
came from Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea.
Cypripedium Brysa, with green dorsal sepal,
twisted rosy petals and a lip having rosy dots on
a white ground, was a pretty hybrid ; also C.
Aphrodite, of which the general colour is whit-
ish, with rosy-purple suffusions. Fhaio-Calanthe
rosea, described in The Garden of March 16,
p. 190, was also shown, and Cymbidium ebur-
neum Lowianum, carrying a fine spike of flowers.
Streptocarpus gratus is a new variety with a
leaf about 15 inches in length and 4 inches in
width, the plant having many branched trusses
of rosy-purple flowers. Amaryllises in fine deep-
coloured kinds, as Milton, bright red, Eurasian,
crimson-red, wero very good. Some handsome
Rhododendrons of the javanicum section were,
Apollo, bright red ; Brilliant, crimson ; Minerve,
fawn yellow ; and Optime, deep fawn, with
rosy margins to its petals ; the flowers indi-
vidually and the trusses remarkable for their size.
Raphia vinifera, a new Palm with leaves like these
of the Kentias, the leaflets having small bristles
along their edges, was another interesting plant
in this group. Messrs. Peed and Sons, of Norwood,
sent a large group of fine-foliagcd and flowering
plants, to which a bronze medal was awarded, and
Mr. Jannoch, of the Lily Nurseries, Dersingham,
Norfolk, exhibited Lily of the Valley, finely grown
and arranged in his usual effective style. Daffodils
and other spring flowers, including Scillas,
Chionodoxas, Freesias, and Anemone fulgens, made
up a bright group from Messrs. Barr and Sons, a
bronze medal being awarded. Mr. Ware also re-
ceived a bronze medal for a large group of the
best Daffodils, trumpet and star-flowered kinds
Mr. J. R. Stevens, Hassock's, showeda Strawberry
named Stevens' Wonder, and a certificate of merit
was granted it. A description of this Strawberry
was given in The Garden of March 16, p. 102.

A full prize list will be found in our advertise-
ment columns.

CRYSTAL PALACE SPRING SHOW.
March 16.
The first show of the season was not a very exten-
sive one, but if the exhibits were lacking in
number, the quality of them left nothing to be
desired. Probably Daffodils of the trumpet sec-
tion have never been better shown than they were
by Mr. Howe, and it is satisfactory to see that
these are receiving more attention. The class for
the trumpet-flowered kinds is apparently a new
one, and the quality of the exhibits it brought
out should induce the authorities to make it
permanent. Bulbs were quite the leading
feature. For thirty-six Hyacinths Mr. James
Douglas, gardener to Mrs. Whitbourn, Great
Gearies, llford, Essex, was first with a grand
exhibit of well-finished spikes. La Grandesse,
white ; King of the Blues and Sultan, deep blue ;
Princess Mary of Cambridge and Electro, light
blues; Garibaldi, rich red, one of the finest of this
colour in cultivation, were remarkably fine. For
thirty-six Tulips Mr. Douglas was again an easy
first with an even exhibit of great excellence and
embracing a wide range of colour. Among the
kinds shown, Joost van Vondel, white, was very
fine. For length of flower and purity of colour
this is certainly the best white Tulip we have,
but it is unfortunate that another Tulip of a
different colour bears the same name. Proserpine,
resy crimson ; Fabiola, rose flake, a fine kind
giving variety to the predominating selfs, and
Ophir d'Or, rich yellow, were all noteworthy. Mr.
W. Howe, gardener to Mr. H. Tate, Park Hill,
Streatham Common, was 83cond. Mr. Douglas
was again first with twenty-four Polyanthus Nar-
cissi, showing a fine lot. Among them Mont
Cenis, a compact variety which usually pro-
duces two and three spikes to a bulb, is
certainly one of the best of this section,
and has a deeper yellow cup than Grand
Monarque. Bazelman major and Adonia were
also fine, this latter the best of any of the yellow-
flowered kinds. Mr. Howe was also second in
this class. In the Daffodil section Mr. W. Howe

was first with a magnificent exhibit of twenty-
four pots, and all so good that it is hardly pos-
sible to single any out for special mention, except
maximus, which, usually a shy kind, was herj
shown as profuse as any other kind and of tailing
effect with its rich yellow colour. Sir Watkin,
Horsfieldi, and Ard-Righ were also good. Mr. J.
Gibson, gardener to Mr. E. H. Watts, Devon-
hurst, Chiswick, was second. In this exhibit a
pot of Golden Spur calls for special mention. It
is one of the best yellow Daffodils and was finely
shown. For thirty-six Cyclamens, Mr. J. G. Mow-
bray, gardener to Major the Hon. H. C. Legge,
Fulmer, Slough, was first with a splendid lot, re-
markable for the fine size and profusion of the
flowers, especially the whites. Mr. Douglas was
again first for twelve Amaryllises, Mrs. Laing,
red, with white throat ; Mrs. Douglas, soft
feathered red on a white ground ; and Erato,
deep red, being the best kinds. We notice, how-
ever, both in this and the eecond prize lot which
came from Mr. Howe a great preponderance of
spotty or splashed flowers that are poor and in-
effective as compared with the noble selfs. For
twelve Cinerarias, Mr. Douglas was first with
dwarf large- flowered plants, but not quite at their
best. Mr. J. Slater, gardener to Mrs. Nothard,
York House, Lower Sydenham, was second.
Nine trained specimens of Mignonette of medium
size, but admirably grown, from Mr. W. Barrell,
gardener to Mrs. Thornton, The Hoo, Sydenham
Hill, were awarded first in the next class.

Messrs. J. Laing and Sons, of Forest Hill,
weie first for a group of stove and greenhouse
flowering and finefoliaged plants, but the rather
absurd limitations as to space altogether pre-
vented effective grouping. Thero were many gocd
things in the group; among Orchids, Calogyne
cristata alba, Lycaste Skinneri alba, Cattleyas
and Dendrobiums, and of greenhouse plants,
Heaths, Azaleas and Begoni; s. Mr. Mowbray
put up an excellent group of Cyclunens, arranged
with :i few small Palms and Ferns, the plants
dwarf and abundantly flowered. It was the only
exhibit in the class, but fully merited the first
prize awarded.

In the smaller classes Mr. J. Gibson was first
for twelve Hyacinths, with fair spikes of medium
size. The first prizes for twelve Tulips and twelve
Polyanthus Narcissi were also secured by Mr.
J. Gibson. For twelve Cyclamens, Mr. W. Slo-
grove, Gatton, Reigate, was first, and Mr. F.
Watts, gardener to Mr. O. J. Trinder, Mount
Vernon, Caterham Valley, second. There was
little competition for Lilies of the Valley, but Mr.
Lane, gardener to Mr. E. H. Coles, Burnt Wood,
Upper Caterham, was first with an admirable
exhibit, the leafage abundant, the spikes long,
with large flowers thrown well up above the leaves.
Mr. J. Bateman was first with twelve Chinese
Primulas, dwarf, free-flowering specimens, but
chiefly white.

The miscellaneous exhibits from the trade con-
siderably augmented the interest and extent of
the show. Messrs. W. Paul and Son, of Waltham
Cross, exhibited Camellias largely, both flowering
plants and cut blooms, also a number of plants in
pots of their new Monthly Rose Duke of \ork,
which evidentlv is also a good Rose for forcing.
Some new and unnamed Tea Roses were also
shown, the plants in pots and having several
blooms. One that looks promising was named
Sylphe. It has a long, full flower of tine shape
and delicate colour, pale flesh-pink, shading to
white externally. Messrs. J. James and Son, of
Farnham Royal, Slough, exhibited a group of
Cinerarias in their usual excellent style, the plants
characterised by compactness, great size of bloom
and exceedingly rich colours, especially among the
selfs. Mr. T. S. Ware, of Tottenham, brought a
large and varied group of spring flowers. Many
kinds of trumpet and star Narcissi in pots were
shown, and Saxifraga Burseriana in quantity
attracted much notice, the little silvery tufts be-
ing almost hidden with a profusion of pure white
flowers. Solomon's Seal, a most useful thing for
forcing ; the Carpathian Snowflake, Colchicums,
Bulbocodium, Cyclamen coum, Arum sanctum, and

208

THE GARDEN

[March 23, 1895.

A. Eggeri (to which a first-class certificate was
granted), Dog's-tooth Violets, and a large mass of
Primula denticulata alba, also certificated, were
most noticeable among the many good things.
Messrs. Peed and Sons, of Norwood, contributed
a large group of fine-foliagedand flowering plants,
and from the same firm came wreaths, &c. , of
which the body consisted of a grey Lichen with
the flowers arranged in one part only. This was
a most interesting exhibit, a charming variation
from the conventional methods of making such
things. Miss Jackson, of Upper Norwood, snowed
a beautifully arranged basket of cut Daffodils and
Snowdrops, also bouquets, &c. Messrs. Laing
and Sons, of Forest Hill, sent a group of coloured-
leaved plants, the variegated form of Nicotiana
afh'nis being well shown. The variegation is very
distinct, pleasing, and well defined. The entire
leaf is of a grey-green colour with a white margin
of varying width around its edge. Saxifraga
sarmentosa tricolor superba is a long-winded
name to give to a pretty form of an old garden
favourite. Bertolonia E. Pynaert was also shown
in good form and colour.

A complete list of awards appears in our adver-
tisement columns.

THE NATIONAL DAHLIA SOCIETY.
Tins, one of the oldest of the special societies
having its headquarters in London, held its annual
meeting at the Horticultural Club, Hotel Windsor,
on the 7th inst., there being a good attendance of
the leading exhibitors of the Dahlia. Mr. E.
Mawley, the chairman of the committee, presided.
After the usual preliminaries the hon. secretary
(Mr. T. W. Girdlestone) read the report of the
committee, which set forth that the ideal Dahlia
season is yet to seek ; that of 1894 cannot be said
to have been an easy one for cultivators. The
plants were late in starting into growth and the
sunless summer did not help the plants to get
over their backwardness. Fortunately, however,
the annual exhibition of the society at the Crystal
Palace fell on the latest possible date and the dis-
play of Dahlias of all classes was a fine one. The
feature of the exhibition was undoubtedly the
magnificent display of Cactus Dahlias, whose
beauty, development, and variety were quite un-
precedented, and the effectiveness of the exhibits
of the Cactus and single Dahlias was further
greatly enhanced by the new arrangement
adopted at the exhibition of breaking up the
usual long lines of tables by occasional octagonal
groups, composed of the collections staged in
some of the principal classes. The details cflhe
numbers of the show and fancy Dahlias staged
will be gathered from Mr. Mawley's analysis.
The society have to deplore the loss of one of the
patronesses in Lady Henry Grosvenor, who took
the keenest interest in the raising of seedling Cac-
tus Dahlias.

The financial statement showed that there had
been received as subscriptions £52 7s. , as donations
£25 14s , from the Crystal Palace Company £50,
advertisements in schedule £13 14s. These
amounts, with the balance in hand of £9 9s. 2d.
from last year, showed a sum of £151 4s. 2d. on
the receipts side. Under the head of expenditure
the sum of £133 12s. had been paid as prizes, in-
cluding a disputed amount of £6 10s. left over
from 1893, cost of printing, £15 3s. lid., small
sums £1 19s., leaving the scanty balance of 8s. 6d.
only in hand.

The secretary said that what is obviously needed
is an accession of members, or, as the other alter-
native, a reduction in the prizes. He also stated
that arrangements had been made with the
Crystal Palace Company that the annual exhibi-
tion would take place on Friday and Saturday,
September (i and 7. The adoption of the report
and balance-sheet was then carried. The Rev.
Charles Fellowes was re-elected president, also
the vice-presidents.

Some names were removed from the committee
and some additions made. Mr. T. W. Girdle-
stone was unanimously re-elected hon. secretary
and Mr. E. Mawley hon. treasurer. The list of

Cactus Dahlias given in the schedule of prizes
was revised by the elimination of Baron Schrce-
der, Cannell's Favourite, Chancellor, Duke of
Clarence, Josephine, Lady Skelmersdale, Lancelot,
Marchioness of Bute, Panthea, Princess Christian,
St. Catherine and Sir Roger, as not representing
the advanced Cactus character, and the following
newer varieties were added to the list, viz.,
Major Haskins, Harmony, Mrs. Barnes, Henry
Depresle, Irene Cannell, Mrs. H. Cannell, Mrs. F.
Fell, Gloriosa and Earl of Pembroke. Some reduc-
tions in the prize money were made in a few of the
classes with a view of economising expenditure.
It was resolved that for the future no certificate
of merit should be given to a Cactus Dahlia un-
less exhibited in such a manner as to show length
of stem as seme guide to the habit of growth.
Some special prizes offered by Messrs. Dobbieand
Co., florists, Rothesay, for single Cactus Dahlias
were accepted. The proceedings closed with
cordial votes of thanks to the hon. treasurer and
hon. secretary, and to the chairman for presiding.

NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.

On Monday evening last the general committee of
this society held a meeting at Anderton's Hotel,
Fleet Street, Mr. T. W. Sanders being in the
chair. The secretary read amongst other corre-
spondence a letter from Sir Edwin Saunders,
thanking the society for again electing him as
president. A resolution was then carrieel to the
following effect : " That in order to mark the
high esteem in which Mr. R. Ballantine, the late
chairman of the general committee, is held, a
testimonial suitably engrossed on vellum be pre-
sented to him on some future occasion." The
report of the schedule sub committee concerning
ceitain special prizes was then presented, and
those from Mr. J. Wills, Mr. W. Wells, Messrs.
B. S. Williams and Son, Messrs. Sutton and
Sons, and Mr. W. J. Godfrey were accepted. A
copy of the catalogue recently published by
Mons. 0. de Meulenaere was then presented by
the secretary, who called attention to its merits
as a valuable work of reference in Chrysanthe-
mum literature. It was resolved that the com-
piler be awarded the society's silver medal in
recognition of his work. It was announced that
the roll of membership at the present time con-
sisted of 79 Fellows, 598 ordinary members, 27
foreign members, and 114 affiliated societies, an
announcement that was received with much in-
terest. One third of the floral committee retiring
necessitated an election. The following was the
result: Messrs. C. E. Shea, W. H. Lees, J.
Wright, D. B. Crane, J. W. Moorman, and E. S.
Addison. The election of chairman of that body
resulted in Mr. George Gordon being appointed.

The secretary then announced the dates fixed
for the meetings of the general committee, viz. :
August 26, September 30, October 28, November
18, December 9, 1895, and January 10, 1896. The
floral committee will meet on September 3 and 25,
October 8, 23, and 30, November 11, 20, and 27,
and December 3 and 11.

A report from the Jubilee subcommittee was
next presented, in which it was stated that in
order to celebrate the fiftieth year of the society's
existence a special four days' show should be
held, and a new medal struck, to commemorate
the event. It is proposed to institute some special
classes in the schedule, the chief of which are a
class for twenty-four Japanese blooms, distinct,
with £20 and a gold medal for the first prize, £15
and a silver-gilt medal second, £10 and a silver
medal third, and £5 and a bronze medal for the
fourth prize. A similar class with the same prizes
was recommended for twenty-four incurved
blooms. A class for twenty-four single-flowered
varieties is proposed, and also prizes for a collec-
tion of cut Chrysanthemums, old varieties grown
previous to or at the time of the formation of the
society. A banquet anel conference will also be
held, and a liberal donation towards the funds of
the society from the Royal Aquarium Society has
been promised. The catalogue revision committee
was elected, the members being Messrs. Harman

Payne, A. Taylor, H. J. Jones, Lees, and Crane.
After the election of several new members, the
Barnet and District Chrysanthemum Society and
the Colchester Rose, &c, Society were admitted
in affiliation.

On the motion of Mr. J. W. Moorman, a hearty
vote of thanks was accorded to the editor of the
new year-book and to the contributors for their
work in connection with the book. It was resolved
that Mr. Dean in future receive the sum of £75
per annum for clerical assistance instead of £50,
as heretofore.

Notes of the Week.

Colchicum montanum, now flowering freely
at Long Ditton, is one of the spring-blooming
species, the flowers freely produced in perfect
clusters, and varying in colour from pale blush
to rose.

Primula denticulata alba. — This is a nice
form of an old garden favourite, and a fine pan of
it was staged at the Crystal Palace by Mr. Ware.
Its leaves are of a lighter green than those of the
type, but the flower-spike is equally stout, erect,
and crowded with blossoms.

Saintpaulia ionantha. — An error has crept
into your note on this in a recent number of The
Garden (p. 133). This was not shown at Ghent
or anywhere else by M. Linden, of Brussels, who
had nothing to do with the introduction of the
plant, but by Mons. H. Wendland, director of
the garden at Herrenhausen, Hanover. — Ed.
Andre.

Tulipa violacea. — This new species, now
flowering at Long Ditton, will be welcomed for
its earliness, as it is in advance of T. biflora,
hitherto the earliest flowering species. Its name
is not exactly expressive of its colour, which is a
deep, but beautiful magenta-red, the flower long-
petalled and handsome, borne on a stalk about
8 inches in length.

Calypso borealis. — This rare and pretty little
hardy Orchid appeared in Mr. Ware's group of
plants at the Palace show. It is a small plant, a
native of American mountain bogs, with a tiny
heart-shaped leaf. The flower, like a miniature
Cypripedium, but with an open pouch, is poised on
a slender arching stem about 4 inches in height
and of a rosy-purple colour.

Iris reticulata is now to be had in several very
fine forms, and, unlike some of the early IriEes, it
is so easily grown that it ought to be very popu-
lar. At the Crystal Palace, in addition to the
type itself, a variety called purpurea was quite
distinct, its flowers of a uniform deep dark purple
colour. The variety known as Krelagei is also
very fine, the colour being cpuite different from
that of either of the preceding.

The Carpathian Sncwflake. — This form of
the spring Snowflake is quite true to the distinc-
tion that was claimed for it, viz , the production
of two flowers on a stalk. At the Crystal Palace
show Mr. Ware showed a pot of it containing
many bulbs, and all but one or two of the flower
scapes had two large perfect flowers. The stain
of colour on the tips of the petals is much greener
in the flowers of this form than in those of the type
itself.

Arum sanctum and A. Eggeri. — These
two Arums were both shown by Mr. Ware, of
Tottenham, at the Crystal Palace on March 17.
The former is now becoming better known since
the plate of it was published in The Garden of
October 14, 1893. A. Eggeri may possibly be a
variety of the preceding, but in the colour of its
spathe it is quite distinct — a rich velvet crimson-
purple, checkered with markings of a darker
purple hue.

Skimmia Foremani. — I saw this shrub at a
show a few years ago, and was much struck by
its appearance and the number of berries it bore.
I bought two plants, and have never yet succeeded
in getting them to fruit, although they have

March 23, 1895 J

THE GARDEN.

209

flowered well. I have been told that it is necessary
to fertilise the blooms from the Skimmia japonica,
while another grower Eays this is not needful. I
shall be glad of advice from your readers as to how
I may best ensure a crop of berries.— H. Worth -
ington, Fmiton, Devon.

Crocus Imperati and C. biflorus.— There are
so manv varieties of the early spring Crocuses in
cultivation, forms of C. aureus and C. vernus, that
people are apt to overlook the numbers of other
lovely species, and among them the two here men-
tioned. Both of these are now lovely in the
grass. C. Imperati is specially beautiful when
nestling in grass, the flowers a clear pure shade ot
rosy lilac. C. biflorus, or the Cloth of Silver Crocus,
is lovely, the delicate shades varying somewhat
from white to the palest lavender.

Arbutus Menziesi. — This noble tree is very
abundant here on Vancouver Island. I have
found it growing from the edge of the salt water
to the very top of the mountains (different from
what a correspondent stated in a back number of
The Gardkn). I have always found it growing
in a dry situation. It seems to prefer a gravel
foil, often among rocks. I know one mountain
that is nearly co\ered with it. All the plants are
bushes that have sprung up from the roots of old
trees that were destroyed by fire a number of
years ago. I have a very tine specimen growing
at the top end of my nursery on a dry gravel
ridge. This tree is about 20 feet high. The
grouse and wild pigeons eat the berries.— G. A.
Knight, Mount Tolmie Nursery, Victoria, B.C.

Winter - flowering- Begonias at Forest
Hill. — For greenhouse decoration these Begonias
are very effective, and are equally useful for cut-
ting. Amongst thoso especially noteworthy at
the Forest Hill Nurseries at the present time are
B. Bruanti elegans, B. rosea floribunda, and the
pure white variety. These plants are suspended
from the roof in baskets, the long graceful habit
of the plants having a very pleasing effect. These
Begonias shculd certainly find more favour, as
they can be accommodated in any greenhouse
where the temperature does not fall much lower
than about 50°. They enjoy a nice light open
compost, and when once established will continue
to grow and flower profusely as long as the plants
are kept in good health. Cuttings should be
taken during the months of March and April. By
cutting back the old plants nice bushy subjects
for the following season can be had, and the cut-
tings will make nice sized specimens and com-
mence blooming the following autumn.

Begonia socotrana. — The island of Socotra,
which is the only native home of this species, lies
in the Indian Ocean about 120 miles east of Cape
Guardafui and to the south of Arabia. It is
mountainous, rocky, and arid, and, as Sir J.
Hooker observes, one of the least likely places in
which a Begonia might be expected to occur. It
was here, however, that Prof. Bayley Balfour dis-
covered B. sncotiana, one of the prettiest, most
distinct, and useful additions made to the genus
in recent years. It is a tuberous species, and the
rounded umbrella like leaves are borne on erect,

1 air}' petioles 6 inches or more high. The flowers
are produced on erect scapes a little taller than
the leaves, and each one measures 1J inches to

2 inches in diameter, and of a soft, pleasing
shade of rose. The species requires stove treat-
ment, (ioing to rest in spring, the plants should
be shaken out of the old soil and repotted in
Augu.-t, using a compost of turfy lcam and sand
with a little leaf soil added. Cherwateiing
in the early stages of growth is to be guarded
against. Frcm this species Messrs. Veitch have
obtained several hjbrids, of which John Heal is
perhaps the best. Both it and the species itself
have been illustrated by coloured plates in The
Gardkn (see numbers for March 18, 1882, and
March 0, 1889).

The Mourning Iris (Iris Susisna), — I should
be glad of some information as to the growth and
cultivation of this Iris. I recollect seeing one root
in a 6 inch or S-inch pot in a florist's window at

Cr.nr.es in April. This bore three flowers and was
admired by everyone. I have since got good
roots from Holland every year, but can make no-
thing of them. One root did bloom once (one
flower) in the open air, but it died away, and sub-
eequcnfc roots have neither flowered nor grown.
Yet I hear that this Iris grows and flowers in the
Dean of Westminster's garden behind the Houses
of Parliament. My experience of growing it in
pots has been equally disastrous. I have had
roots each year carefully planted in pots, large
and small, in autumn. These pots have been put
into a cold frame. Some have been left there,
some have been put into an airy greenhouse, others
into different houses, but always with the same
result. The leaves quickly spring up, look most
luxuriant until 8 inches or 10 inches high, then,
whatever the winter or the temperature, they
begin to wither and rot just as they do in the open
air. I have tried all kinds of soil in vain. As I
grow Tuberoses successfully, I thought (from the
similarity of the rcots) I could easily grow this
Iris, but I am mistaken. Other Irises grow well
in my soil, but I. Susiana beats me. In fact, I
never saw in any garden a specimen of it. — R. D.
Polygala rnyrtifolia.-This is one of the
many plants which, although seen occasionally in
long'-established gardens, belongs rather to a past
generation than the present. Like numerous
other plants which represented in our greenhouses
the marvellous floras of South Afiica and Australia,
it was grown in considerable quantity fifty years
ago, but, like the great proportion of the plants
from the same regions, went out of fashion twenty
years ago. There are, however, signs that this
plant, along with others of the same class, are re-
gaining some of their old popularity. An encourag-
ing sign at any rate is their appearance in the
shape of neat dwarf specimens on the benches at
the Drill Hall during the spring. This Polygala
(lowers during autumn as well as spring, and a
laro-e bush IS feet high was for seveial weeks in
flower in the temperate house at Kew. The leaves,
al hough in size and shap3 resembling those of the
Myrtle, have not the same deep glossy green, being
paler and glaucous. The flow ers are so much like
those of the papilionaceous legumes, that most
people look upon this Polygala as one of the
Leguminosa'. It belongs, however, to quite a
distinct natural order to which this genus gives
its name. The petals are of a rich glowing rosy
ourple, the stamens, also rosy, being produced in
a cluster clasped by the petals forming the keel.
A cool greenhouso temperature is all that is
needed for this plant, which when large enough
can be planted in the conservatory border.

Nf rcistus triandius.— This delicately beau-
tiful Narcissus, to w hieh t he poetic name of Angels'
Tears has been given, is valuable for pots during
the early spring. On comparatively long sten s
the flowers, sometimes two or three on one Ecape,
stand well up from the Rush-like foliage, while the
reflexed and flanged perianth, poised like white
wings on the pendent nectary, imparts a distinct-
ness of form that renders it unlike that of any
other Daffodil. N. cyclamineus is the nearest
approach in form to N. triandrus, but its colour i*
yellow and the peiianth shorter and not so grace
ful. I collected two years since some bulbs of
N. triandrus in the west of Spain, where they grow
n profusion on the hills in a shallow peaty soil, in
which is incorporated a large proportion of
granitic detritus. I have seen it stated that this
Narcissus is a lover of marshy soil, but my obser-
vations point to a totally different conclusion.
The range of N. triandrus was confined entirely to
ihe hills, which in summer must have been baked
by the sun. In the lower meadows N. triandrus
gave place to varieties of N. Ajax, while marshy
spots were entirely monopolised by N. Corbularia.
Planted out, N. triandrus does not appear to be a
success ; indeed, the flowers are too fragile to be
subjected to an English spring without protection.
In a pan or pot, however, under greenhouse cul-
ture the plants come into bloom during February
and are invariably much admired. One pot con-
tain ng twelve bulbs prcduced this year twelve
flower-spikes, most of them eairying two blooms

and one of them three. The flowers, although so
fairy-like, last well in water. — S. W. F.

Hardy Water Lilies in the house. —
Nympha-a Marliacea Chromatella was in bloom
in the Water Lily house here on March 1, and
a few days later the Water Lily tank was gay,
several varieties of Marliac's Water Lilies being in
flower. The plants went to rest as usual, but
started growing much earlier than I have known
them to do for some years. I generally re-pot
the Water Lilies in February, but omitted doing eo
this spring in the hope of having them flower
earlier in the season. J am very satisfied with the
results and can see no diminution in the size of the
flowers. I grow the plants in large earthenware
pans made specially for the purpose and also in
tubs, so as to be able to arrange them in the tank,
which is from 3J feet to 5J feet in depth. The
soil I use for pottmg is marly blue clay, loam and
cow manure. I put G inches or so of the clay
in the bottom of the pans and tubs, and the loam
and cow manure mixed at the rate of two of loam
to one of cow manure. I believe the use of the
blue clay is the principal cause of the Water
Lilies growing so vigorously as they do. When
repotting the plants the strongest roots are found
in the blue clay. There is a 4-inch flow and re-
turn hot-water pipe in the tank, but the heat is
very seldom turned on. I understand some
growers run off the water from their tanks in tho
winter with the object of resting the Water
Lilies. Is it a good plan to do so ? Here the
object is to have the Water Lilies in flower as
early in the season as possible ; later on the lakes
and ponds in the demesne furnish an ample supply.
—J. Ryan, The Castle Gardens, Caxtlewellan, Co.
Down.

Effects of the frost in France.— M. Ed.
Andre writes to us under date of March 9 : " The
destruction occasioned by the severe weather in
Paris and neighbourhood has been immense, but
not so greatas during the winter 1890-1891. Ever-
green shrubs have suffered greatly, numbers
having had their leaves destroyed, although tho
wood is often sound, with the exception of tho
young shoots. Primus Laurocerasus, Viburnum
tinusf Phillyrea angustifolia and media, Ligus-
trum ovalifolium, L. . sinen=e, Ibota, Aucuba
japonica, Rhamnus alaternus, and Choi sya tern at a
have suffered greatly. Mahonia aquifolium,
Phillyrea Vilmoriniana, and Prunus caucasica
have stood better. The losses would have been
far greater if the frost had begun earlier, when
the wood was still unripe, but what caused tho
greatest harm was the duration of the frost, w'hich
continued without cessation for forty-five days.
The daily thaw burnt up the leaves of vegetation
exposed to the sun ; whereas towards the north
where there was no thaw plants suffered much
le's. This I proved as I covered up a certain
number of Rhododendrons, and these are in very
good condition, while those of the same kinds
exposed to the sun and thaw, but uncovered, have
been much injured. Independently of the losses
occasioned by this exceptional temperature to
gardens, one must take into consideration the
heavy losses nurserymen and seedsmen will sus-
tain by being unable, from the advanced period ot
the season, to make many moie deliveries be-
fore the spring. In Touraine the gardens have
suffered much less. The leaves are burnt up and
the stems of the young Bamboos are frozen, but
the old stems have stood. The ground was not
so deeply frozen as in Paris, where it was hardened
to the depth of 2 feet, a fact certified by M.
Becquerel in the Jardin des Plantes Under the
snow and under tho Crass in the same garden the
ound was not frozen to a depth of more

gr

10 centimetres to 15 centimetres.

than

Notes from Almondsbury.-Two or three
really lovely days have made bulbs reappear
Hepaticas are out in places, Snowdrops also. It
is painful to contemplate trained shrubs, and
following Mr. Smith's advice, I will only say that
here with a zero frost Carpenteria californica
seems quite safe, also Olearia Haasti, all the

10

THE GARDEN.

March 23, 1895

Magnolias like longifolia, Watsoni, also the
Hypericums, Spiraas of all kinds, Tree Peonies,
but nearly all variegated-leaved shrubs look very
wretched. Iris stylosa seems to me to have
suffered terribly. I have a large quantity of it at
the foot of a warm wall, and the whole mass looks
as if a match should be put to it. It is well known
that to burn prairie grass just now will ensure
double growth this summer. Has anyone dared
to try it on other plants? The fire is so often
applied to plants and bulbs in their native
countries, that one would like to know if a similar
application of fire would do good in England. I
have a fine pod of seed on Iris stylosa alba crossed
with I. speciosa ; it is in a pot, and takes a long
time to ripen. Ought I to cut it off and ripen it
artificially ! I may say I have ripened seed of
this Iris in England after a very hot summer, and
then I think in the open the seed took six months
to ripen. In a pot in the greenhouse one ought to
be able to hurry matters. Recently there have
been buried in our churchyard two interesting
old gardeners : one was gardener at Abbotsford
to Sir Walter Scott— Brydon by name — the other,
aged 85, helped to plant the earliest Tree Pa-onies
in Lord Clifford's garden at King's Weston about
1824. These Piconies are enormous specimens
at the present time, and when in bloom are a fine
sight. The old man had been a great traveller,
and was interesting to talk to. His prize cards
were a fine collection. He had some interesting
species of Roses which I hope to get named this
year. — C. 0. Miles.

Dry versus wet leaves. — A mistake is fre-
quently made in using wet leaves for filling
Cucumber and Melon pits. Such, although heat-
ing violently at first, invariibly go cold in a
very short time, decay speedily following. Dry,
newly- harvested leaves are preferable for all
purposes, especially when used for supplying
bottom-heat for striking cuttings. There ought
always to be sufficient heat beneath cuttings to
enable them to dry once a day after starting.
When wet leaves are used, and the heat suddenly
declines, cuttings often remain wet throughout
the day, particularly when sun is absent, with the
result that wholesale damping and stem-rotting
take place. For propagating, also for early
Melons and Cucumbers, I prefer to rake up a
sutficient quantity in spring of Oak and Beech,
taking them straight to the pits or beds rather
than using those which were collected in autumn
and have lain in a mass in the open. — J. C.

Public Garden?.

Eppicg Forest. — The sum of £3600 has been
set aside for the maintenance of the forest for the
ensuing j ear.

Ktw Gardens.— The First Commissioner of
Works has received a communication from the
Lord Steward stating that, in accordance with
representations made that access to the meadow
in front of Kew Palace would greatly improve the
arrangements for admitting the public to Kew
Gardens, he had recently taken Her Majesty's
pleasure on that point, and had been honoured by
the Queen's commands to cede to his department
for the use of the public the greater part of the
meadow referred to. This piece of ground is 4J
acres in extent, and will also, when thrown open]
allow visitors a direct instead of a circuitous
access to the finest part of the arboretum.

A new recreation ground for Cleikenwell.

— The Works Committee reported that they had
considered the proposal to lay out as a public re-
creation ground the churchyard attached to St.
James's, Pentonville. The opinion of counsel had
been taken by the trustees as to the right of the
vicar to prohibit the laying out of the ground as
an open space, except upon conditions imposed by
himself. Counsel's opinion is to the effect that
the rights of the vicar are limited if the Consistory

Court will grant the necessary faculty. The
Public Gardens Association had, through their
secretary, signified their intention of laying out
the churchyard as a public garden, at a cost of
£500, on the understanding that the Vestry w ould
maintain the ground. They (the committee) re-
commended that the solicitors to the Vestry be
instructed to take the necessary steps to obtain
the faculty from the Consistorial Court for laying
out the ground as an open space in accordance
with the above terms.

Epping Forest.— The Epping Forest Com-
mittee of the Corporation have recently presented
their annual report for the past year. Jt shows
that 16 acres of Wanstead Flats have been drained
and levelled for football and cricket, as a means
of giving work to the unemployed. The forest
had suffered much less than usual from fire, and
the committee were of opinion that the thinning
had in many places checked damage from that
cause. Various new bye-laws had been made,
making it an offence to throw lighted fusees
or matches in the forest, preventing the sale or
distribution of intoxicating liquors in the forest
by so-called "clubs," preventing the molestation
of commoners' cattle and bringing dogs into the
forest unless under effective control. When the
London, Walthamstow, and Epping Forest Rail-
way was constructed the ccmmittee felt sure that
it would make the forest more accessible to the
people residing in the northern parts of the metro-
polis. The income of the forest last year was
£6148, including £3600 from the Corporation, and
the expenses £6610.

Open spaces.— At the monthly meeting of
the Metropolitan Public Gaidens Association, 83,
Lancaster Gate, W., Mr. F. D. Mocatta, vice-
chaiiman, presiding, a grant of £5 5s. from the
Leathersellers' Company, and donations of £25,
£15 14s., and £10 towards special schemes on
hand were announced. Communications were
read from the municipalities of Paris and Brussels
giving detailed lists of their public open spaces.
The opening of Lincoln's Inn Fields and Whit-
field's Tabernacle burial ground by the London
County Council was reported, the association
having taken a prominent part in the efforts made
for their acquisition and preservation. It was
agreed to place seats in Impeiial Institute Road
at a cost not exceeding £35 ; to give seats for
Strand-on-the-Green, the Chiswick District Coun-
cil paying half the cost ; to lend some gymnastic
apparatus for evening classes at a school in Step-
ney, at a cost not exceeding £10 ; to communicate
with the Newington Vestry respecting the vacant-
site in East Street, Walworth ; to undertake to
provide trees and seats for Petherton Road, N. ;
and to lay out the disused burial-ground of St.
James's, Pentonville Road, as a public garden, if
the Clerkenwell Vestry succeeded in securing it
and agreed to maintain it as such. The secretary
announced that the erection of gvmnastic appa-
ratus in the crypt of St. Peter's, Walworth, had
been completed, and that the children's play-
ground added to St. Nicholas Garden, Deptford,
would soon be ready for the reception of the appa-
ratus which the association recently granted. It
was reported that the laying-out of All Hallows
Churchyard, London Wall, and the planting of
trees in Whitechapel Road, which had been de-
layed by the frost, would soon be completed. A
letter was read from the Mercers' Company de-
clining to allow Arbour Square, E., to be opened
to the public. Amongst other matters which
engaged the attention of the meeting were the
proposed preservation of the site of Clapton Pond
and Paddocks and the laying out of Bartholomew
Square, E.C., a vacant site in Canning Town, E.,
the Friends' Graveyard in Long Lane, S.E., and
St. Mary's Churchyard, Battersea, S.W.

Mr. Martin Hope Sutton.— To very few is it
permitted, after an active and successful business
career, and a life spent in works of usefulness,
social, philanthropic, and religious, to enter the
threshold of four score years. An honoured resi-

dent of Reading— Mr. M. H. Sutton— has lived to
attain his 80th birthday, the 14th of March, and
the pleasurable occasion was on Thursday last
duly observed. Mr. Sutton received over 100
letters and telegrams, besides a great number of
congratulatory visits from friends in Reading.
Addresses were also presented, amongst others, by
the Church of England Y.M.C.A., the Reading
and District Gardeners' Mutual Improvement
Association, and by the chiefs of departments of
the Royal Seed Establishment, from which busi-
ness he retired in 1888, after being head partner
for more than fifty years.

The weather in West Herts.— The most
noteworthy feature of the weather of the past
week has been the gradual decline in temperature
during the evening and night, and its rapid
recovery in the morning after the lowest point had
been reached. Several days were very warm for
so early in the spring, the readings in shade on
two of these reaching 56°, and on another day 58°.
On the coldest night the exposed thermometer in-
dicated 11° of frost. Since the beginning of the
month the temperature of the ground at 2 feet
deep has risen 8°, at 1 foot deep as much as 12".
At the depth of 1 foot the reading is now 44°,
which is 4 warmer than the March average for
the previous nine years, but 1° colder than at the
same time last year. Three days of the week were
very sunny, the record of bright sunshine on each
occasion exceeding seven hours. Chionodoxa
Lucili.-e came first into blossom in my gat den on
the 19th inst., which is only six days later than
its average date of first flowering for the previous
seven years, but thirty-three days later than last
year. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

Obituary.

Mr. John J. Themes, one of the most eminent
American pomologists, died at his home in Union
Springs, New York, on February 22, aged eighty-
five years. Among his works, "The American
Fruit Culturist," which was first published fifty
years ago, still remains probably the most useful
work ot its kind. It has been revised many
times to keep pace with the advance of pomology
in America, and the latest labours of Mr. Thomas
were given to the preparation of a new edition,
which is to be published in May. Nine volumes
of miscellany, entitled " Rural Affairs," which are
selections from the Country Gentleman, of which
he was an associate editor, were prepared by him.
Mr. Thomas was a man of great simplicity and
sincerity of character, combining sturdy integrity
with a rare refinement, gentleness and unfailing
charity.

Royal Horticultural Society— At the next

meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, which
will be held in the Drill Hall, James Street, Vic-
toria Street, Westminster, on Tuesday, March 26,
Mr. T. H. Grasp will, at 3 p.m., read a paper on
"Lifting Large Trees and Shrubs." The vacancy
caused on the fruit committee by the lamented
death of Mr. Geo. Taber has been filled by Mr.
Iggulden's appointment by the council. The
vegetable show has now been definitely fixed for
September 10 instead of October 15, and will be
held at Chiswick Gardens instead of in the Drill
Hall, as stated in the society's "arrangements"
for the year. The show at the Drill Hall, there-
fore, on October 15 will be an ordinary fortnightly
meeting.

Names of plants. — J. W. — Specimen too

shrivelled to identify. Arthur Dadnxcell.— Purple

Crown variegated sirjgle Tulip.

The Wild Garden : or, the Naturalisation and Natural
Grouping of Hardy Exotic Plants, wtth a chapter on the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, uitk wood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged, lemy
8vo, linen cloth. Price 12s. ; well bound in half morocco, 18i
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEN.

211

No. 1219. SATURDAY, March SO, 1895 Vol. XLVII

"This la an Art
Which d< es mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature."— SAj uiart.

Flower Garden.

THE JAPANESE ANEMONE AND ITS

VARIETIES.

The Japanese Anemone and its two varieties
with white and pink flowers are so well known
and universally appreciated, that it would be
superfluous at the present day lo describe and
e.vtol them. But as these three original forms
of the plant, hitherto so fixed and invariable,
have commenced to exhibit some modification?,
in (hat of late years three or four varieties
differing from the older types have made their ap-
pearance, it seemed desirable to me in describ-
ing these new-comers to refer to the origin of
their progenitors.

Anemone japonica (Sieb. and Zucc), dis-
covered in Japan by Thunl erg, who took it for
an Atragene, was re-discovered by Siebold, who
saw it growing in the wild state on the high
mountains of the central island, in moist woods,
and on the banks of streams. It was at last
introduced into Europe in the year 1845 by
Fortune, who met with it in China (near Shang-
hai), and sent plants of it to the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, London. It flowered for the
first time in the grounds of this society in 1845,
and in the following year LouU van Houtte
published a coloured plate of it in the "Flore
des Serres et de Jardins de l'Europe." Now
everybody knows this perennial plant with
downy foliage, branching stems, pinnatisect
leaves unequally lobed and with rather narrow
segmeuts, and long stalked flowers generally
composed of two rows of irregular, narrow,
hooded petals of a more or less dark carmine-
pink colour.

The origin of Anemone japonica elegans is not
so clearly established. According to Decaisne,
who made a distinct species of it under the
name of A. elegans, Dene. (Rente Hortieole,
18o2, p. 41), it has in Japan the same habitat
as A. japonica. It may be admitted that it was
introduced into Europe shortly after A. japoi i-a,
since before 1850 it was mentioned in nurserj -
men's catalogues under the name of A.
japonica hybrida. Ornamentally superior to
the type, it is distinguished from it by its more
ample foliage, its broader leaflets, its stouter,
taller, and more numerous stems, and, lastly,
by the form and colour of its flowers. These are
of larger size and have from five to nine
broad, rounded petals of a handsome, perfectly
uniform light, pinkish-lilac colour, and cottony
on the under surface. These differences,
although very important from a horticultural
point of view, do not appear to be sufficient to
warrant the formation of a distinct species, and
notwithstanding the authority of Decaisne, we
shall regard Anemone elegans as simply a variety
of A. japonica.

From the facility with which it can be grown
and propagated, this fine plant very soon be-
came widely cultivated, and, amongst others,
M. Jobert, a banker at Verdun (Meuse), was
supplied with it from the establishment of
Messrs. Thiba.ut and Keteleer, which was then
located at Paris. In M. Jobert's garden one of
these plants of A. japonica elegans happened to
"sport," a shoot of it producing perfectly white
flowers. When this variety was fixed, four

nurserymen received each a plant of it at the
same time, and one of these nurserymen, M.
Victor Lemoine, of Nancy, was the first to send
it out in the early part of the year 1803. Such
was the origin of Anemone japonic- 1 alba, which
is also known as A. japonica Honorine Jobert,
and which, wiih the exception of its white
flowers, is identical in every respect with A.
japonica elegans. It has now spread all over
the world and is multiplied in millions, having
almost entirely superseded the two other forms
which were in cultivation before it appeared.

Twenty-five years passed away before any of
the three original Japanese Anemones produced
the slightest variation from the existing forms.
This was owing to the circumstance that, as
M. Van Houtte mentioned in 184(5, " the seeds
of this plant rarely become fully developed and
fertile, even in its native country," and experi-
ence has shown that in Europe this never occurs
at all. We have never heard of a single plant
of these Anemones that was raised from seed,
and it is amongst seedling plants that varieties
are chiefly to be found.

To an accidental crossing, however, the origin
of a new American variety which was sent out
under the name of A. japonica Whirlwind by
Messrs. James Vick and Sons, of Rochester,
N.Y., U.S.A., was at first attributed. This
plant is identical in foliage with the typical
Anemone japonica and grows nearly as tall.
It forms low, compact tufts of foliage and
numerous firm flower-stems terminating in semi-
double, cream-coloured flowers with greenish
shades on the back of the petals. The general
appearance of the plant differs essentially from
that of A. Honorine Jobert, which is of taller
growth and more graceful habit, bears its
flowers at various heights on the plant, and has
more slender peduncles. The American variety,
on the other hand, bears all of its rather stiff-
looking inflorescence at the same level. In
their catalogue for the year 1887 Messrs. Vick
described this variety as " a new double white
Anemone, the result of a cross effected by sorn?
bee carrying the pollen between the single wl i'e
Anemone and the semi-double pink variety. "
To anyone who is aware of the negative
character of the Japanese Anemones in the
matter of self-fertilisation and hybridisation,
and of the difficulty of obtaining, in a climate
more rigorous than ours, any naturally-ripened
seed, the explanation of Messrs. Vick appears
rather conjectural, and it is, moreover, so vague
that it does not state which plant was the seed
parent. Until we are better informed on the
subject we shall regard A. japonica Whirlwind
as a fresh sport, produced either by A. japonica
alba or, as we think is more probable, by a
plant of the typical Anemone japonica. An-
other reason which prevents us from regarding
this variety as a seedling one is that in our
grounds it has shown itself to be absolutely
sterile, notwithstanding all our attempts to
fertilise it artificially; whereas plants which
are produced by hybridisation are generally
very fertile.

When a plant which for the space of nearly
fifty years has shown itself to be sterile and abso-
lutely refractory against every attempt to fer-
tilise it, at length, by the merest chance, pro-
duces two or three fertile seeds, there occurs a
break in the history of the plant, which, how ever
insignificant it may appear, is really of the
highest importance, since it may prove to be the
originating cause of extensive modifications.
Such an event took place a few years since in
Ireland and is recorded in The Garden for 1892
by Mr. A. Campbell, gardener to Lady Ardi-
laun, Cong, Co. Galway. Mr. Campbell says :
" Having had numerous inquiries about my new

Anemone, I beg to state that six years ago I
observed a head of seed on a plant of A. japo-
nica alba. This had an enlargement upon one
side like a wart. This I sowed when ripe and
got three seedlings from it. One of these I
found much finer than the other two. From
this plant the stock has been raised." This new
variety was named A. japonica Lady Ardilaun
and soon came into general cultivation on the
Continent. It is distinguished from A. japonica
Honorine Jobert by its taller growth (about 5
feet high), its thicker stems anil peduncles, the
width of its large, coriaceous leaves — which are
of a brilliant green colour — and especially by
the greater size of its flowers, the petals of
which are broad, firm, and of a pure white
colour. It is a noticeable circumstance that
the whiteness of the flowers, which in the first
case was the result of a sport, was here a charac-
teristic of a seedling variety also.

A distinguishing feature of the Lady Ardilaun
Anemone is that of producing seed, which ripens
readily in the open air in a climate more favour-
able than ours. By artificially fertilising this
plant we have obtained a series of seedlings
which are commencing to show the greatest
diversity of variation in habit, size of flower,
doubleness and also in colouring. One of the
first of these seedlings, which we sent out in
March, 1894, is named Anemone japonica alba
semi-duplex, and was offered for sale at the same
time as the American Anemone Whirlwind, from
which it is distinguished by its different habit,
more ample and livelier-coloured foliage and
flowers containing from ten to twenty broad,
round, pure white petals.

Another variety which we intend to advertise
in the spring of the present year (1895) was ex-
hibited by us to the Horticultural Society of
Nancy last November under the name of A.
japonica Coupe d' Argent. The leaves of this are
large, like those of A. Lady Ardilaun, and also
firm (nearly coriaceous) and of a quite lustrous
and brilliant green colour. The stems, which
are of the thickness of a lead pencil, are very
perpendicular in growth, each bearing numerous
flowers which stand perfectly erect on firm foot-
stalks. The flowers, which are individually
about 3 j inches in diameter, are formed of three
or four rows of more or less undulated and
hooded petals looking like little cups. From
thirty-five to sixty of these small petals have
been counted in a single flower. The colour of
the flowers is creamy-white passing into pure
white. Flowers which open after October 15
have a slight pinkish tint. The plant is, on the
whole, of large dimensions ; its perfectly erect
habit of growth is quite distinct from that of A.
Honorine Jobert, and its flowering- stems grow
to twice the height of those of the variety Whirl-
wind.

Other seedlings which we have now under
observation lead us to expect that the day is
not very far off when the gardening world will
become all the richer in possessing double-
flowered Japanese Anemones in great variety of
colour. Emile Lemoine.

Nancy.

Cordyline australis purpurea.— This is a

very distinct form of the popular Cordyline
australis, which is perhaps better known by the
generic name of Draca?na. When plants of the
normal type are raised in quantity from seed there
is frequently a considerable amount of variation
to be found among them, the plants differing from
each other in the width and number of the leaves,
in their texture, and other particulars, but,
p-enerally speaking, not in the colour of the foliage.
The above named variety, however, has the leaves
of a uniform bronzy brown tint, much after the
manner of that form of the New Zealand Flax

212

THE GARDEN

[March 30, 1895.

(Phormium tenax) to which the varietal name of
atro-purpurea has been applied. This bronzy
tinted Oordyline is well worth growing for the
sake of variety, but at the same time it is not so
attractive as the type, and far less showy than the
variegated forms, which are very effective when
associated with other plants. The ordinary form
of Cordyline australis is increased in considerable
numbers by seeds which are readily obtainable.
Such a mode of propagation is not available
for varieties like this, as the plants have not
attained flowering size, but even if they were to
produce seeds it is not at all probable that the
prominent characteristics of the individual would
be transmitted to the progeny. — H. P.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.

Bog plantp. — In reply to the interesting letter of
Mr. F. W. Harmer (pp. 10910), I am not yet in
any better position than a few years ago with re-
gard to the smoke from great ironworks on the
one hand and the smoke of Leeds on the other.
Still, I do not think that my position for garden-
ing is absolutely bad. During the last twenty
years I have come to believe that with care one
may succeed where the surroundings are not
absolutely or directly injurious to the plants. If
Mr. Harmer will kindly excuse me for saying
so, I feel certain that were I to change to where
he would put me — nearer the river — I should be
very much worse off, even with bog plants, and
hundreds of other things would then be im-
possible. The water of the Aire is yet, and likely
for some time to be, almost like ink, and a dense
fog frequently hangs over the river. Even at my
short distance I can rejoice in immunity from these
fogs. Moreover, I take it, that to be on slightly
rising ground on deep sandstone, with further
rising ground in the rear, is not bad for a garden
from the moisture point of view.

Tropseolum speciosum. — I scarcely wished
to convey the idea to anyone that this plant dis-
liked wet, though I should never think of growing
it as a bog plant. I rather sought to convey the
idea that whilst a naturally deep-rooting species
is being established, it should be protected from
wet and cold to help it until it took its place
naturally in deep soil.

Primula Sieboldi.— I quite agree with Mr.
Harmer's remarks, and I was struck by the
statement of "A. D." that this did not like
moisture. My experience is that, without giving
it in the open air both a moist situation and a
soil retentive of moisture as a safeguard against
a dry spring or summer, none of the Primula
cortusoides group ever do any good. I like to use
it especially as an edging plant for a flat border
where a main walk catches a number of other
small walks at right angles from sloping ground.
Such walks act as feeders during summer showers
to the cross-walk, and give in a degree a sort of
semi-bog condition, and just the place for such
gay, but humble flowers as this Primula in all its
varieties, Calthas, Galax, Gentians, and moisture-
loving bulbs.

Sunflowers. — The noble picture so finely pre-
sented to us on p. 109, and the wonderful account
by Miss Willmott, who photographed the speci-
men portrayed, are almost enough to make us
discontented with our climate, but though we
have to be content with far less gorgeous results,
we may now and then gather a hint from what in
such cases as the present can only be described as
phenomenal results. We see by Miss Willmott's
note that the results were far better in the case of
the self-sown plants, and though the species
specially referred to by Miss Willmott is but one
of the annual varieties, it doubtless points to the
desirability of dealing with hardy plants in the
autumn as regards either seed-raising or the plant-
ing of roots of the perennial species, and I think
were the loot habit of the species studied it
would be seen that, at least in the case of annuals,
the capabilities of the plants could hardly have full
scope when raised in spring of the year intended
for flowering. Of course, as regards the peren-

nial plants generally dealt with in the form of
roots, a spring transplantation might not be so
well as an autumnal one, but the plant would
grow out of its drawback by the following
year. As a matter of fact I have found the
transplanting of the perennial species give
better results when done immediately after the
foliage began to turn brown in late summer.
Usually we find that the late-flowering composites
are as well left for spring planting as in the
case of Michaelmas Daisies, but I think somehow
it is different with the Sunflowers ; and what I
should consider to further confirm this, anyone
may prove for himself, the great amount of root-
action that takes place in late summer after
root-division and replanting. This surely means
something in the way of extra vigour for the fol-
lowing year.

Rosa Leschenaultiana. —I believe this is
as difficult to procure as it is beautiful. I
have long been seeking both at home and abroad
for a couple of specimens or even material in
the form of cuttings, in the hope of trying its
capabilities both here and in a noted south of
England garden. I cannot but think that others
would be interested to know where this elegant
Rose of the sempervirens group could be had.
Evidently it is not in commerce, and, from what I
hear of it, it is a Rose beyond all praise.

Gentiana alpina. — I find this name is being
much more employed than formerly, which I fear
many will find inconvenient, not that it is not a
well authorised one, but because there are perhaps
too many authorities for it — five, I think. From
a gardener's point of view the name is a poor one
for a Gentian, as nearly all the species are alpine,
and the gardener is not to be reasonably expected
to always inquire into the meaning of one name as
applied to various plants. This is, of course, the
real difficulty of several authors giving one name
for different plants. According to Grisebach's
treatises of the gentianaceous species, alpina is
referrabletothreespecies, viz. , gelida ( M. B.),acaulis
(L. ), and verna (L.). G. alpina verna (Tournef. )
is synonymous with verna (L. ), G. alpina latifolia
(Bauh.) is synonymous with acaulis (L. ), and
alpina (Vill. ) is referred to the same, but as a sub-
variety, i.e., through angustifolia (Vill.). G.
alpina (Adams) is synonymous with gelida (M. B.
or Hook.) and also with armena (Tournef.). This
(gelida) is perhaps the rarest of all Gentians, as
it is not known where a single specimen, dead or
alive, exists excepting in our national herbarium.
I can scarcely believe that all this nomenclature
will seem perfectly clear without a little further
examination, but I give these facts as an instance
of plant nomenclature, not so much for their in-
telligibility at a first glance as to show how error
may easily occur when different authorities employ
one plant name, but which by the respective
authors may refer to different plants. It may
be useful also as showing that in some cases of old
and large genera we should by some means, as
that of giving the author for the plant intended,
seek to make our intentions clear.

Aciphylla squarrosa. — This beautiful umbel-
lifer, known in its native country (New Zealand) as
Bayonet Grass or Bayonet Plant, is, I believe,
widely doubted as a hardy plant. I am not so
sure that it is wanting in hardiness, neither the
kind known as A. Colensoi, be it a species or a
variety of the present. However, my specimen
seems to be in perfect order, having endured 31°
of frost. Of course there is a deal to be said for
environment. I do not think that in the lower
part of the garden, where there is a little more
shade and wet and a soil somewhat colder,
quite as satisfactory results would have come
about ; indeed I have noted carefully that unless
the plants are grown in the fullest exposure and
with their collars dry, they are liable to make
a growth too succulent and tender, and all the
worse because they continue to make late growth.
I have noticed that the peculiar forked grass-like
foliage, or hard ribbed leaves with their steel-like
points, are extremely susceptible to anything near
them obstructing the light. Young plants
against a wall become drawn badly in a day or

two, throwing themselves out of their rounded
symmetrical form into the oblique. This to my
mind indicates such influence of direct light, that
I think it reasonable that the requirements of the
plant for the openest exposure amount to an
essential in its culture. I do not know what other
people's experience may have been with this curious
genus as regards transplanting, but I have never
yet succeeded with a plant in the open ground
that had been transplanted after the age of two or
three years at most, and when I speak of age I
mean the age of a plant from seed, which is by far
the best means of propagation. By-the-by, seed
of late has been somewhat scarcer. I suppose it
is generally known that some plants are wholly
male and others wholly female. What a grand
effect is to be produced by a mixed group of tho
Aciphyllas as I saw them many years ago at the
Edinburgh Royal Gardens, and it was at that time
I observed the marked difference in the sexes.

Epig-sea repens. — Corresponding with my
friend Mr. Gerard, of New York, he employs a few
sentences of such practical worth in reference to
establishing this plant, and having special reference
to what I said a little time ago about seedlings,
that'I think they cannot fail to be of general in-
terest. He says, " I notice your note on Epigaja.
That is a case in point as to growing our native
plants. It would scarcely pay any tradesman to
grow them (the seedlings) on, though it is the only
practical way to furnish plants likely to live. You
can go into the woods and pick up big plants
much faster than you can find seedlings, and the
ordinary receiver of large plants would think he
was getting treasures, though none of them lived.
The plant grows easily enough if properly esta-
blished, and I have seen it on rocks by the way-
side in full sun." J. Wood.
Woodville, Kirks/all.

Sweet Peas. — "Selwood" in his article on Sweet
Peas (p. 130) says "Curiously enough, the growth
first formed by Peas raised in pots rarely reaches
a flowering height ; it is the growths that spring
up from the base that do such good service. '
Now this does not at all agree with my experience
in growing Sweet Peas. I always sow the seed in
pots and plant out from those 5 J inches in diameter,
giving the plants one shift from the smaller pots
they are sown in. Last year the first-formed
shoots grew 8 feet high ; in some instances the
side growths from these measured 5 feet. The
main point about Sweet Pea growth is to sow
thinly and keep the plants growing freely by
liberal water supplies during dry weather and
freedom from seed pods. — E. M.

Marie Louise Violets. — I send you a sample
of Violets grown here, and would value your
opinion on them. One flower measured at hazard
I found 1J inches across. The Violets are all
grown from crowns, and all runners are cut off
as soon as seen. The young plants are put out in
the full sun and have it on them all day long, and
in dry weather they are well watered. At the
beginning of September they are moved into a
frame. The frame has brick sides raised 2 feet in
front, .3 feet behind, and is filled in with flints and
rubbish to within a foot of the glass. The bed is
composed of nothing but leaf-mould, which is
collected from under the Beech trees and screened.
The plants are put in so that they touch the glass,
and shut up at sunset. Free ventilation is given
when there is no frost, but as soon as the days
get short and cold the lights are put on before
sunset so as to get a little warmth. During
frost the frame is covered, and kept covered till
it has gone, but opened to get flowers as good as
those during sunshine. The soil here is light, and
of course being on the Plain is very chalky. The
wild Violet grows in the fields here, and covers
tho banks with purple, giving out a strong sweet
scent, so no wonder cultivated Violets do well
with care. As I write, my frame, 24 feet by G
feet, is one mas3 of flower.— Arthur Newall,
Wilsford House, Salisbury.

*.* The finest flowers of this handsome Violet
we have seen. — En.

March 30 1S95.J

THE GARDEN.

213

Chrysanthemums.

JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUM

DUCHESS OF YORK.

Duchess of York must be regarded as the first
Scotch seedling Chrysinthernum ever raised. It
is a matter of general observation amongst
lovers of this popular flower that wherever it is
grown with any degree of success for exhibi-
tion, it follows as an inevitable result that the
growers sooner or later graviate towards the
more interesting phase of culture, viz., seed-
ling-raising. And so it has been with our

of merit. It has also been awarded a silver
medal at Edinburgh and a silver medal and a
certificate at Glasgow. In this respect the
Scotch variety seems to rival even the equally
celebrated American novelty Philadelphia, which
came out the same season.

The reputation of Duchess of York may there-
fore be considered as established, especially
! when it is added that it is now figured for the
fifth time in horticultural literature. Mr. H. J.
Jones, of the Ryecroft Nursery, Lewisham, was
not slow to recognise its value as an exhibition
flower, and the stock, therefore, passed into his
hands for distribution. Little can of course be
said as yet about its cultivation in the south,
for I believe all the blooms that gained awards

Chrysanthemum Duchess of York. From a photograph sent by Mr. M. J. Junes, Lewisham.

Scotch friends. Mr. Laird has shown in his
article, "The Edinburgh Chrysanthemum
Shows, "which appears in the recently-published
Chrysanthemum year-book, what a firm footing
the flower has obtained in Scotland. The
difficulties of ripening seed even so far north as
Edinburgh must be great, and perhaps from a
pecuniary point of view almost impossible, but
Mr. J. Carruthers, of Corstorphine, has
obtained seed from a friend resident in Japan
which, having been sown, has resulted in the
production of a new variety which will
undoubtedly make a mark in the world.
Blooms of this variety were staged in splen-
did condition at the floral meeting of the N.C.S.
as early as October 10 last year, when it was
awarded a first-class certificate. It was also
exhibited at a floral meeting of the R.H.S.
on November 27 and there received an award

were grown by the raiser. My own notes of the
variety when it was first shown only apply to
the blooms, and I therefore extract from Mr.
Jones' catalogue the following details, which
are more complete : "The colour of the bloom
is soft light yellow ; it i3 of extra size, most
massive and graceful in form ; the florets, which
are long and prettily cut, droop and build up a
flower of a true Japanese character. The plant
grows about 5 feet high without topping, and
the handsome foliage is retained to the last.
Good from any buds, but those secured near
August 20 wiD produce the more perfect speci-
mens. Use 10- inch pots and adopt high feeding."
The illustration accompanying these notes
gives a very faithful idea of the flower as ex-
hibited and has been much reduced from the
original photograph. There is no doubt but
that next season's cultivation will place this

first Scotch seedling very high in the list of
popular show Chrysanthemums.

C. Har.man-Payne.

CHRYSANTHEMUM W. H. LINCOLN.
I will try and satisfy " S. W. P." as to my
reasons for using the words " outraged Nature "
in my note (p. 128), as the term he substitutes
d*>es not meet the case. The outrage, or action,
I had in view was the lifting of a plant from the
open ground in October, and the consequent
mutilation of roots combined with the subsequent
altered conditions in which such plants generally
have to exist for a time, viz , under shade and in
a closer atmosphere than that to which they have
been accustomed. Such treatment is certain to
give a severe check at a time when the resources
of the plant are being severely taxed by the for-
mation or swelling of the buds, and the depriva-
tion of light is both unnatural and a hindrance to
the proper development of the flowers. Most
growers recognise the fact that the period directly
subsequent to the bringing of the plants under
glass is a critical time, even with plants which
have been grown in pots throughout the season
and which need tot be kept in a close atmosphere
or shaded. We need go no further than to
"S. W. F.'s" plant to see the effect of these
altered conditions, for some of the buds on it re-
fused to swell, and others produced small and
badly shaped blooms. If Nature did not intend
these buds to develop, will " S. W. F." kindly
tell us the reason ? If she did, then she was in
some way outraged. We know that plants are
grown in this way in large numbers every year,
and that they produce fairly good blooms which
are probably saleable, but such blooms will not
compare well with those grown under other and,
as I think, better conditions. I am no admirer of
huge-flowered Chrysanthemums, but I must say
that blooms of the variety in question which only
average 3| in. in diameter are undeveloped, and
would scarcely show their true character. I still
think that " S. W. F.'s "example bears out in a
measure my remark that only one flower should
be allowed to remain on each shoot. I must own
that I am not yet convinced that blooms sold at
Is. per dozen, even without the pots, can be re-
munerative, though they may occasionally be sold
at that or even at a lower price. Flowers and
fruit, too, have sometimes, unfortunately for the
grower, to be sold for less than the cost of grow-
ing. But when one is told that such blooms and
at such a price would prove "a veritable gold
mine " to the grower, it strikes one that the term
is used more as an euphonism than for its gene-
rally recognised meaning. — J. C. Tallack.

I see that in my note on the above Chry-
santhemum (p. 161) a misprint occurs. I wrote
"Although no disbudding had been practised,
the individual flowers were of good size, as, owing
to the fact of the sap having been monopolised by
the centre bloom on each shoot, none of the side
buds developed." The word " some " having been
used for "none," the sentence contradicts the
context, and confuses the point of my contention.
— S. W. F.

DEPTH IN CHRYSANTHEMUM FLOWERS.

I am quite willing to own that, as Mr. Douglas
points out (p. 127), I was writing heresy in express-
ing an opinion that extreme depth did not neces-
sarily mean added beauty to Chrysanthemum
flowers. I do not, however, agree that "all the
best judges are agreed in giving good points for
depth." It does not follow that a man shall be a
judge of what is most beautiful because he is, or
has been, a successful cultivator of this or any
other class of plant. The standards set up by
judges of show flowers, whether Chrysanthemums,
Auriculas, Carnations, or what not, are narrow,
and no one knows this better than does Mr.
Douglas, as he has plainly shown in recent articles.
The main cause of the popularity of Japanese
Chrysanthemums is the graceful and artistic

214

THE GARDEN.

[March 30, 1895.

arrangement of the petals, but this grace of form
is gradually being lost in the struggle for depth
of bloom, which cannot help but make the flowers
appear lumpy. Already many of the most striking
varieties have had to be put by as useless for
showing because of the want of this very lumpi-
ness. I am far from blaming those who are called
upon to act as judges. A standard of some kind
they must have, and the first thing of which a
grower thinks is the skill required in the pro-
duction of the flowers, and I grant that a skilful
and strict attention to details is needed to add
depth to the flowers. But many of the newer
kinds that are exhibited have to me but little
beauty of form to recommend them, and their only
claim to the position is that the flowers can be
had of great depth. I have before me a catalogue
in which the proportions of some of the newer
kinds are given. I find one described as neat and
6 inches in diameter by 5 inches deep. Another
monster is 9 inches across and the same in depth.
I grew last year a variety sent to me as Marquis
de Paris. I will not vouch for the name, and
cannot now say to what depth it had attained
when finished, but I will say that it was out of all
due proportion to the diameter. The flowers were
remarkable certainly, but remarkably ugly, I
thought. And it is not only in cut blooms that
this craze for depth obtains. One would think
that for groups of plants grace of form would have
some weight, if combined with a fair amount of
skdl in culture and arrangement in grouping ; but
in one representative show last year the first prize
group contained many flowers which had been
forced into great depth at the cost of loss of
character and beauty. There was not time to
dress the flowers, consequently each had here and
there tufts of petals which had pushed themselves
considerably in advance of their neighbours on the
same flower, thus giving the whole group a rough
and inelegant appearance. But what were the
judges to do? The depth was there and the prize
went there too. But when writing mj' note on
Chrysanthemums for the new year I was not
thinking of show hlooms, and even the wisdom of
"the best judges " must not be allowed to force
itself on the grower of flowers for decoration, or
some of our most beautiful varieties would soon
be lost to us. J. C. Tallack.

white ; Mile. Lacroix, white ; Amy Furze, blush-
rose with lilac tinge ; William Robinson, orange
tinted rose ; Bouquet Fait, soft rose-pink ; and
Bortier Rendatler, orange, shaded with yellow and
red. Many of the varieties in thereflexed section
are well adapted for this mode of culture on
account of their free-flowering habit, less tendency
to develop irregularly formed flowers, and their
adaptability to training, owing to their somewhat
natural weeping habit of growth. The Christine
family produces no less than five varieties, pink,
peach, golden, blush, and the white form generally
known as Mrs. Forsyth. Dean Sharpe, rich
purple-magenta ; Elsie, pale canary-yellow, pass-
ing almost to white : Chevalier Homage, deep
golden yellow ; King of Crimsons, rich sanguineous
crimson ; Phidias, rose-blush ; Wm. Earley, bright
rose-purple ; and William Neville, deep orange,
suffused with red in the centre.

Of pompons we have many deserving varieties ;
their natural free- flowering habit combined with
bushy growth renders them quite suited to this
form of culture. Marie Stuart, Anemone pompon,
pale lilac guard florets, sulphur yellow centre ;
St. Michael, rich golden yellow ; Black Douglas,
rich dark crimson ; Mr. Astie, also Anemone
pompon, golden-yellow self ; Mile. Marthe, white,
shapely blossoms ; President, dark rosy-crimson ;
Marabout, white florets, fimbriated, and the three
varieties of Cedo Nulli are the best in this section.

E. MoLYNEUX.

SPECIMEN TRAINED CHRYSANTHE-
MUMS.
ALTHOUGH not receiving so much encouragement
at autumn exhibitions as formerly, trained plants
have still their admirers. Now is a good time to
make a selection of suitable plants for the present
year's flowering. Some varieties succeed much
better than others under this form of culture. I
have drawn up a list of varieties that are especially
adapted for this mode of culture. As the Japanese
and reflexed sections are better adapted to this
form of culture than are the Anemone-flowered or
the strictly incurved varieties, I purpose selecting
kinds mainly from these sections, making an ex-
ception in favour of the small-flowered incurved
trio Mrs. G. Rundle, O. Glenny, and Mrs. Dixon.
No better specimens are ever grown than those of
this trio. Not only are they of free growth, flower
profusely, but bear also neatly formed blooms of
the true incurved or Chinese form. Although in-
stances occur where some of the largest flowering
varieties in the Japanese section are utilised with
the best results as specimen plants, they cannot
be so much depended on as the small or "medium-
flowered examples. Of Japanese the following
varieties are, owing to their habit of growth and
freedom of flowering, deserving of cultivation as
trained specimens : Maiden's Blush, creamy white,
tinted blush ; William Stevens, quite one of the
best, bronze-red ; Peter the Great, lemon-yellow ;
William Tucker, rosy-purple ; Stanstead Surprise,
rose-lilac, shaded gold ; Sunflower, rich golden
yellow ; Viviand Morel, rosy-pink : Roseum
superbum, rosy-lilac, shaded buff; Val d'Andorre,
orange-red ; Triomphe du Nord, bronze-crimson ;
Margot, rosy-salmon ; La Triomphante, white,
suffused with delicate purplish rose ; Elaine, pure

Chrysanthemum Mrs. F. Thomson. — I have
been surprised not to see included in some of the
comprehensive lists of late-blooming Chrysanthe-
mums lately given in The Garden the above
variety, as here for several seasons it has proved
the very latest of late sorts, and even now
(February 20) we have several plants carrying nice
blooms — terminals — freely disbudded, conse-
quently are of good size, and the colour — a pretty
silvery pink deepening towards the centre — is
very attractive, more so thus late than earlier.
It is a robust grower, carrying abundant foliage
which is not addicted to mildew, and although
not a variety of recent introduction, I think it
may safely and profitably be included in any
collection of latest blooming kinds. — J. R.

CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES.
Persons who failed to remove their cuttings
from outside frames will have cause to remem-
ber the year 1805. In some localities where the
plan of cool treatment finds favour we hear of
almost entire collections being ruined, and it
really seems advisable to adopt a safer method
of striking the cuttings in all cases. In some
past seasons very satisfactory results have fol-
lowed striking Chrysanthemums in cold frames,
but whether this plant is becoming less hardy
through the high culture of later days I cannot
say. The fact, however, remains that they will
not stand frost with impunity. I well remem-
ber a large piece of ground in a nursery planted
with Chrysanthemums for stock. They grew
and flowered, were parted, again planted like
hardy border plants, and year after year gave a
rich display. The other day I saw some tufts
of early-flowering sorts near a wall, which were
perfectly safe just underneath the surface, and
yet a few yards away in the open roots of
Mme. Desgrange were quite dead, these being
made secure, it was thought, by placing a
mound of leaf-mould over each root. But this
last is not one of the hardiest sorts, and if left
in the open all the winter it is wise to have
other plants coming on under glass to replace
them should severe weather intervene. As a
rule, white varieties are among the least robust
during winter. I have only to instance Ava-
lanche and the newer variety Souvenir de
Petite Amie. The cuttings of these present a
sorry appearance compared with many of the

yellow sorts at this time of the year, and yet
later in the season they are among the most
striking in regard to sturdiness of growth.
There are many sorts remarkable for fine
foliage in summer which do badly in winter.
On the other hand, there are kinds which
produce stout, healthy cuttings now that
by and by exhibit a weakly aspect. Goldeu
Dragon is a very good instance. Boule d'Or,
again, a stout grower in its early stages, gives
many cultivators trouble by taking on a yellow
hue through the growing season. The grand
Japanese variety Miss Dorothea Shea, too,
has this habit. The mention of the last re-
minds me of some notes which have lately
appeared in The Garden in reference to its
height of growth. One writer complained
of the variety reaching 9 feet, and for that
reason thought of discarding it. Of course,
situation and seasons have a great deal to do
with the height to which Chrysanthemums
grow, but I cannot understand Miss Dorothea
Shea showing such an extreme disposition to run
up. I have always regarded this as a dwarf
grower, or at most a variety of medium height
when cultivated for show. With me it has
seldom gone beyond 5 feet high. It would be
better to try dwarfing by timely topping back
than discard so fine a kiud as the above un-
doubtedly is.

Last season I was much struck with a system
of growing large Chrysanthemum blooms on
dwarf stems, brought into promineuce by a fine
group at one of the Aquarium shows. Many of
the plants were less than 3 feet high and the
perfect blossoms were enhanced in beauty by re-
markably fine foliage. The mode is to strike
the cuttings from now to early April and let one
stem only be selected to produce a single bloom.
To delay the formation of the bloom bud, pinch
back the plant when 6 inches high and in the
final potting stage use pots no larger than 7
inches in diameter. Among Ferns and other
green plants in a conservatory such speci-
mens would be most effective. A quick and
sure method of rooting the cuttings at this time
of the year is to plant them thickly in shallow
boxes. These may be placed in a greenhouse
with a moderate tempeiature in the full sun,
and sprinkled with water each evening.
Do not mind if the leaves flag in the day-
time ; the moisture and darkness will make
them stand up the following morning, and
in a couple of weeks they will make sturdy little
plants. Pot them off singly before there is
time for them to become drawn, and then give
cool frame treatment. The above is a g' od
plan, too, for obtaining large show blooms
of some of the late-flowering American varie-
ties. Curiously, many sorts from this source
are very late in giving bloom buds when grown
on the well-known system of three flowers to a
plant. W. G. Newitt is one, and I believe the
magnificent blossoms of the sensational variety
Philadelphia were obtained in this way. As
there are a number of growers who now
have this in their collections, they would do
well to take off the tops of their little plants,
root them as advised above, and be satisfied
with one bloom to each, then allow the parent
plant to throw up about two shoots and select
the earliest flower-buds. To obtain the best
results from this plan, high feeding should be
adopted, the roots being confined to so small a
space.

Chrysanthemum growers are now busy getting
their plants into larger pots. Since the frost
growth has been very rapid. There should be
little danger now in removing the specimens into
cool frames provided there be some means of
protection during the night. It is advisable to

March 30, 1895]

THE GARDEN.

215

use pots of two sizes, namely, 5-inoli and 6-inch.
If the soil is sufficiently moist, so that it can be
conveniently handled without sticking to one's
fingers, ram it into the pots with a piece of
wood. Loose potting induces a fast growth,
but when the soil is made firm the wood and
leaves become more solid. Stand the plants
well apart, as well as provide abundance of air
in favourable weather. At this time of the year
some varieties have a tendency to produce
flower-buds at the tips of the shoots. Although
these are not desirable when the object is large
blooms, I should say the plants are not per-
manently affected, as other shoots soon spring
up. The stoutest may be selected and trained
upwards. The varieties Viscountess Hambledon
and Miss Anna Hartshorn are, perhaps, the
most persistent in the above-named habit, and
all we can do is pinch the buds off promptly
until growing shoots obtain mastery over them.

H. Shoesmith.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

PEAR CHAUMONTEL.
In many places this Pear is considered fickle
and an indifferent grower and bearer, while in
others it is a thorough success and highly ap-
preciated for its large size and rich vinous
flavour, together with its good keeping quali-
ties, for though frequently tit for use in Decem-
ber I have had it in excellent condition up to
the first week in March. There are numerous
causes why this valuable variety should succeed
so well in one place and fail in another only a
short distance away, and I think aspect, shelter,
stock, and mode of pruning exercise the
greatest influence on its well-doing or other-
wise. If the tree is planted with an aspect
facing south, or nearly so, and fairly sheltered
from east and west side winds, the position will
be admirably adapted to it, and the blooms will
set freely and the fruit swell up free from
blemishes or other defects. Stock has perhaps
more influence on Chaumontel than any other
Pear, according to my experience. When grafted
direct on the ordinary Pear stock 1 found the
produce scanty and very spotted, but when
double grafted the result left nothing to be
desired. The finest crops of large fruit that I
have ever seen were grown on a tree planted on
the gable end of a stable facing due south. On
the Pear stock had been worked Pitmaston
Duchess, and on that again the Chaumontel.
This connection suited the variety famously, as
the growth was strong, clean, and short- jointed,
and though no heavy crops were produced,
they were regular, moderate ones of high
quality. For growing as cordons the Quince
forms a good stock, and the trees are very pro-
lific if liberally supplied with plant food and
otherwise well looked after. Another cause of
failure lies in the pruning, for if the branches
and spurs are too congested, immature wood and
buds follow, and general debility soon sets in.
Most practical men are well aware that all
varieties of Pears that require a warm situation
and soil must be so pruned that every spur or
other portion of the tree has sufficient light and
sun for the growth to become well ripened,
and it is by acting on that principle so many
gardeners are enabled to produce Chaumontel
Pears that would be no discredit to the Channel
Island growers who send us such magnificent
fruit of that variety. W. G. C.

Fig St. John's. — This new variety is not
grown so much as it deserves. I do not know of

any variety more suitable for hard forcing and one
better adapted for pot culture. The new Pingo
de Mel very much resembles it in colour and size —
indeed, it is a richer fruit, but I have not found it
such a good forcer, as the latter variety does not
carry so many early fruits. It often attains a
larger size than the St. John's. I do not know
any of the older kinds of Figs which retain the
autumn set fruits 30 well as the varieties named.
The habit of the St. John's Fig is compact, so
that the trees may be grown in a limited space.
For summer fruiting I do not advise its culture,
as we have larger and richer fruits, also varieties
which give a much heavier second crop. Started
in November, there is no difficulty in having ripe
fruit in March.— O. W. S.

Strawberry Li (Grosse Sucree. — I am not
surprised that good growers pin their faith to
this variety for early forcing. I have always
given it secondplace to VicomtesseH.de Thury. It
is strange how seasons affect the varieties, as last
year our plants of Vicomte3se were all one could
desire. They seemed to revel in the favourable
growing season of 1893, and the result was very
tine crops of fruit early the following year. This
year Vicomtesse is much inferior to La Grosse
Sucree, though both are given similar treatment.
The crowns of Vicomtesse split badly and the

Pear Chaumontel. From a photoqraph sent by Mr. N
Blake, Bedford.

stalks are very short. The crowns of La Grosse
Sucree are the reverse, being very strong and full
of flower, and in most cases single. To the grow-
ing season of last year I attribute the weak
crowns of the Vicomtesse. Of course the former
had the same weather to contend with, but this
year they are full of vigour, and plants placed on
shelves a month later to follow the Vicomtesse are
nearly in at the same time, thus showing how
seasons alter the character of the plants and the
value of La Grosse Sucree in unfavourable weather.
— \V. I.

A new Strawberry.— The new Strawberry
shown by Mr. J. Stevens at the last meeting of
the R.H.S. was a surprise to many, as the fruits
were equal to the finest forced Strawberries in
May or fruit from the open ground in July. We
have no knowledge of the parentage of this
variety, and really it does not signify, for as a
forcing Strawberry it well merited the award it
received. In my opinion such fruits, whether new
or old if not previously recognised, should get a
suitable award. The grower's receipts for the
past month from Govern Garden proved its worth
for market and for its heavy crop so early in the
year. I note that "A. H." (p. 192) gives valu-

able particulars as to its cropping qualities, and
so well describes the fruit, habit'of growth, and
other details, that it is unnecessary to go at
greater length into particulars. The grower
readily gave advice as to treatment and other
details of culture. He relies chiefly upon soot as
a manurial agent. The compact growth, with its
free -setting qualities, should make Stevens'
Wonder Strawberry a valuable acquisition. —
G. Wythes.

Stocks fjr Vines.— No doubt great diversity
of opinion exists as to the best stocks for the
varieties of Grapes named by R. Katzer (p. 192),
and the answers to his query will excite consider-
able interest amongst Grape growers. So far as
my experience of stocks goes for that magnificent
variety Muscat Hamburgh, I have found none to
equal Muscat of Alexandria for it. Every year I
have heavy crops from such a union, many of the
bunches being 4 lbs. to 5 lbs. each, with berries
of very large size and good colour, ripe early in
August, and as the flavour is so superb, they are
always wanted immediately they are fit to cut.
Some able authorities recommend the Black
Hamburgh as a stock for the above, and though
I have grown it worked on that variety with
fairly good results, I could never obtain the size
of bunch and berry as on the Muscat. Madres-
field Court, again, succeeds fa-
mously on Muscat of Alexandria,
also on Black Alicante, and I
found little to choose between
them ; the Muscat stock gave the
finest berries, but the Alicante the
broadest bunches and deepest
colour. Gros Colman and Gros
Guillaume, I believe, succeed best
on their owr roots, provided the
soil is of a light and warm charac-
ter, but where the compost is
strong, Muscat of Alexandria for
the former and Gros Maroc for
the latter are good. At the same
time I believe that the Muscat
will answer as a stock for any
variety of Grapes usually grown
in a vinery, as I have yet to see
any worked upon it fail to grow
well and produce good Grapes. —
W. G. C.

R. Katzer (p. 192) asks as

to the best stocks on which to
graft Muscat Hamburgh, Madres-
field Court, Gros Colman, and
Gros Guillaume. Speaking from
experience, I would strongly re-
commend the Black Alicante as
the most suitable stock on which
either to graft or inarch the Mus-
cat Hamburgh. The finest crop
of this grand (Jrape I ever saw was
borne by a rod inarched on to this stock. The
bunches were absolutely faultless, being large, well-
shouldered, and with fine berries. The Black Ham-
burgh is usually quoted as the right stock for
this capricious Grape, but I have seen many miser-
able results from the union, the berries shanking
wholesale and the colcur quite foxy. If R. Katzer
has a healthy Vine of Alicante he cannot do better
than try the experiment. Madresfield Court will
do well worked either on Muscat of Alexandria or
Black Alicante. I have it on the former in the
early house, and it makes good wood and bears
capital bunches, which always ripen well. In a
later vinery I have it worked on the Alicante, and
yearly large bunches and berries of first-rate
quality are produced. I think there can be little
doubt that the right stock for Gros Colman is
Muscat of Alexandria. I have before referred to
the magnificent examples of this Grape grown at
Kelham Hall, near Newark, the Vines being
inarched on to the Muscat. I have one young
rod similarly inarched, and last season the bunch
it bore was quite black by the middle of July, the
house not having been started until the 1st of
February. This season the Vine promises well,
having duplicate bunches on every lateral. I

:i6

THE GARDEN.

[March 30, 1895.

have also heard of several other gardeners who
have been successful with Gros Colman on the
Muscat. As Gros Guillaume succeeds very well
with me on its own roots, I have never inarched
it on to any other stock. The Vine under my
charge has a certain amount of bottom-heat at its
roots, the hot-water pipes running along the end
of the border parallel with the drainage thereby
heating the soil for some distance. At another
place where the roots of Gros Guillaume are kept
warm by hot-water pipes the crop is always even
and good.— J. Crawford.

Pear Beurre d'Aremberg. — I was very
pleased with the engraving of this valuable Pear
with accompanying notes in a recent issue of The
Garden. We seldom hear of or meet with it,
which leads me to think it is not so generally
known as it ought to be. I have it here as a hori-
zontal tree on a west wall, a cordon on an east
wall and an espalier, in all which forms it does
capitally. The fruit from the west aspect is cer-
tainly the finest. It comes into use during January
in ordinary seasons, though in 1S93 it ripened in
December. It will keep equally as long as that
excellent sort Winter Nelis, which is saying a
great deal. The flavour is good enough to please
even the most fastidious at so late a date, and the
size of the fruit is just what one would choose for
the dessert. — J. Crawford, Newark.

syringing with clear water nearly every evening
will do much towards keeping the bushes clean.
The stronger insecticides and soap-suds are best
applied before the flowering period, and if this is
not sufficient, repeat the dose after the fruit is
set. Something should also be done towards pro-
moting a more vigorous growth than formerly.
Carefully fork away the surface soil down to the
roots, and if caterpillars were abundant last
season burn it. If the bushes are old, give a
liberal dressing of good nearly decayed manure,
covering this with soil, while a mixture of loam
and manure will be quite strong enough for the
younger bushes. — W. I.

RED SPIDER ON GOOSEBERRY BUSHES.
I notice on looking over my Gooseberry bushes
that the bursting buds of many of them terminate
apparently in bright red points. On examining
these through a lens I find the red points are
clusters of minute spiders. Will these do any
harm to the opening buds, and if so, what is the
best remedy?— R. J. G. Read, Ealing.

*,* Many probably anticipate a certain amount
of immunity from insect and grub attacks this
season, thinking that the severe frostE of last
winter must have proved very destructive among
such enemies to vegetation generally. All too
soon comes evidence to the contrary. Red spider
in the open has not only survived, but, judging
from R. J. G. Read's note, the pests are numerous
on his Gooseberry bushes already. They may
not greatly injure the buds, but the young leaves
will, unless preventive measures are adopted, be
soon overrun and eventually destroyed by them.
These minute pests increase with great rapidity
and draw so much sap from the leaves as to quickly
check their progress, all before very long chang-
ing to a sickly colour and dropping off. This, in
the case of Gooseberries, means the ruin of the
crop, and not unfrequently of the bushes too, as,
unless they make a certain amount of top growth
and retain their leaves long enough for these to
perfect a strong bud at their base, the start next
spring will be most feeble and the crop nil. In all
cases, therefore, where red spider has been trouble-
some in the past timely preventive measures
ought to be taken at once, not waiting till much of
the mischief has been already done. Sulphur in
either a powdered stateor in a liquid form is perhaps
the best remedy for red spider. A good formula
for preparing a composition effective against mil-
dew as well as red spider is as follows: Slake
half a pound of lime in a pan, then add one and a
half pounds of flowers of sulphur and six quarts
of water, mixing thoroughly. Boil gently down
to three quarts, keep stirring during the process,
and after it has settled strain through muslin and
bottle for use as required. Four ounces, or two
wineglassfuls to three gallons of water, well
mixing and thoroughly wetting every part of the
bush by means of a syringe and sprayer, ought
to be an effective dose, less sometimes proving
sufficient. Sulphide of potassium is a simpler
remedy, as in this case all that is necessary is to
well mix one and a half ounces of this with three
gallons of water and to apply with a syringe.
Soap-suds duly strained through a piece of coarse
canvas and diluted with an equal portion of clear
soft water, frequently applied with a syringe, has
been known to keep red spider under, and even

Black Hamburgh, and never have any trouble to
obtain a plentiful crop of shapely bunches. I
generally employ fire-heat liberally with all late
Grapes when in flower, as less trouble is expe-
rienced in getting a good set. — E. M.

Protecting tree stems from ground game.
—Adverting to the plan described by "A. D."
(p. 171), I lately saw a somewhat novel idea put
into practice upon some standard-grown Apple
trees. Ordinary fish nets were cut into strips
long enough to reach from the branches to the
ground and sufficiently wide to cover the stem
all round, hanging in folds of two or three thick-
nesses. The netting was not tied to the stem of
the tree, but was allowed to hang loosely. I was
told this was an efficient protection against hares.
— E. M.

Disbudding Peaches. — "Foreman" (page
171) takes me to task for stating that young men
are scarce who can properly disbud Peaches. Now
although "Foreman" and many other young
men no doubt thoroughly understand the work,
my experience is that the great majority of them
do not, and although there are many larger
establishments than that of my friend mentioned
in my note (p. 25) or the one I have charge of, the
fact that in twenty-five years he has never had a
man come to him who had done disbudding bears
out my statement, and this in by no means a little
place, as there are at least half-a-dozen Peach
houses and as many young men in the bothy.
Neither have I ever had a young man yet who
could be trusted to disbud Peaches when he first
came. However, if my article causes more know-
ledge and increased interest to be spread amongst
young men on the matter, I shall be well satis-
fied. As to there being very many painstaking
and energetic young men who can be depended
upon to satisfactorily disbud Peaches I do not dis-
pute, and I would only advise them to not neglect
opportunities of learning how to do it properly,
so that when the time comes they may teach their
subordinates. — W. G. C.

Strawberry Scarlet Queen.— This is un-
doubtedly a fine early variety. It is, as regards
flavour, infinitely superior to Noble, very early,
coming in with me several days before that va-
riety. It is of vigorous growth and crops well. The
individual berries do not, however, come quite so
large as' those of Noble and Sir J. Paxton. One
point in its favour is that the foliage is but little
liable to mildew, a great recommendation now that
Strawberries suffer so much from this pest. Those
who want a well-flavoured early variety will do
well to try Scarlet Queen. — J. C. , By fleet.

Grape Mrs. Pince. — Mr. Young does well to
call attention to the requirements of this high-
class Grape (p. 111). How seldom do we see it in
even presentable condition, let alone possessing
that high finish which renders first-class examples
conspicuous. I know of no variety that will con-
tinue to produce such large and shapely bunches,
in spite of its somewhat weakly habit of growth,
as will Mrs. Pince from the same rods. Close
spur-pruning is the method by which the best re-
sults are obtained. There is no occasion to en-
courage vigorous young canes from the base to
obtain a regular crop of handsome bunches.
So well does the wood mature with rational treat-
ment, that an abundant crop is obtained at a
minimum of labour. Although Mr. Meredith
when at Garston grew his famous bunches of this
Grape in a house devoted entirely to its use, it is
not at all necessary to follow that plan to obtain
satisfactory results. I grow this Grape along
with Alicante, Lady Downe's, Gros Colman, Treb-
biano, Madresfield" Court, Gros Guillaume, and

APPLE IRISH PEACH.

Although this Apple is one of the most de-
licious early varieties in cultivation, it is con-
demned by some as being a shy bearer and un-
profitable. While admitting that it is not a
very remunerative Apple for market, I believe
no other Apple can excel it for home consump-
tion, and though not one of the heaviest croppers,
it will produce regular and fair crops if culti-
vated on correct lines. Many of the shoots
are furnished with a terminal fruit bud, and
these buds as a rule produce the largest and
best fruit. Supposing the pruner shortens back
the major portion of these shoots, he is cutting
away a large quantity of the finest and best
placed fruit buds, and if the crop is light the
fault lies not with the trees, but with the
pruner. I never shorten back a shoot on Irish
Peach unless it is throwing the head of the tree
out of balance ; the consequence is that most of
the shoots in summer are terminated with a
handsome Apple, which brings down the shoot
by its weight in a gentle curve or arch, and by
the check to the sap thus given most of the
young branches or shoots are covered with fruit
buds, to be followed the following summer with
fruit. On standard trees no pruning is done
except cutting out any branches that rub or
cross each other, and I feel sure that if less
pruning were done in this variety very satisfac-
tory crops would be obtained, and it would be
appreciated for its general excellence. Irish
Peach, like a few other Apples and Pears, is the
most pleasing to the taste if eaten the same
day as gathered ; if kept for a few days or
weeks the quality suffers, until finally the flesh
becomes mealy. However, if eaten as soon as
ripe it is one of the most delicious and refresh-
ing Apples grown, and should find a place in
every garden where Apples are grown for
dessert. I would suggest to those who have
not been satisfied with their crops to try the
plan of pruning mentioned ; if they do, I think
they will alter their verdict on this first-class
Apple. W. G. C.

Pear Leon Leclerc de Laval. — At page !>.">
Mr. Wythes speaks of two good stewing Pears.
I would strongly recommend a third, viz., the
above, which I consider the most prolific stewing
Pear grown. It seldom misses cropping. When
residing in North Hants I had a bush tree of this
kind, and for ten years it never failed, although
the tree did not grow in a favourable situation.
Two years ago I obtained a bush tree, and last
autumn I gathered from two to three dozen good-
sized fruit from it. The fruits are not large when
compared with those of some stewing kinds, but
if they are thinned freely they are quite big
enough to please good cooks. It is not a strong
growing kind, hence it is suitable for planting
in small gardens. It keeps well, as I have had it
in good condition during February and March.
Verulam I too can speak a good word for, having
seen it give splendid crops in a most exposed
garden in West Norfolk. — J. Crook.

Foreign fruit trees. — I believe that in The
Garden last year I warned intending fruit growers
against purchasing fruit trees from foreign sources
because they could get them at a cheaper rate
than from reliable British firms. It may possibly
be worth while to repeat the warning, as I find
that such purchases are rather on the increase
than otherwise. A few days ago I saw specimens
selected at random from a large order that had
cost about 25s. per 100, poor, miserable things,

Mabch 30, 1895.

THE GARDEN

217

with a few inches of growth from the graft or
bud, scarcely any roots, and those very dry and
parched. If such trees become profitable within
the next ten years I shall be astonished, and shall
watch results with interest. My experience of
these imported trees is not very large, but what
few I have had under my charge were the reverse
of encouraging, as they made very little progress
for four years from planting, and after the lapse
of that time they possessed little vigour and the
fruit produced was consequently small. It is a
very risky thing to buy these foreign trees, as the
change of soil and climate may act very injuri-
ously upon them, and it is very possible that,
although the original cost may have been low,
the trees may in the end prove very expensive.
When first-class firms in this country offer maiden
trees at about (on the average) 75s. per 100, and
which are known to quickly develop into remu-
nerative bushes, it seems absurd to spend money
lavishly on what may be an absolute failure. —
W. G. C.

SHORT NOTES.— FRUIT.

Apple Winter Peach.— This medium-sized
cooking Apple does not appear nearly so well known as
its merits deserve. For use during winter and early
spring it is valuable. The skin, at first green, changes
to cream colour, the flesh white and the flavour brisk.
— E. M.

Apple "Winter Queening.— This is suitable
either for dessert or kitchen, and is especially valuable
on account of its late keeping qualities. The skin ispa'e
green, mottled and striped with red. While we have
so many early and midseason varieties we have few late
Apples ; therefore Winter Queening, though old,
should not be lost sight of . — E. II.

Apple Annie TQizabsth is a really good late
kitchen Apple that deserves more attention than it re-
ceives, a-* it succeeds in a variety of soils. The growth
is quite erect. The branches when the trees are
young require some little attention in order to give
additional light and space to the inner parts of the
tree. The fruit is large and prominently ribbed. —
E. M.

Ferns.

HARDY EXOTIC FERNS FOR THE
WILD GARDEN.

I was very pleased to see in Mr. F. W. Har-
mer's interesting note on " Bog Plants," pub-
lished in The Garden of February 10 (p. 109),
a reference made to certain robust-growing
hardy Ferns of North American origin as being
plants " which should be more frequently
introduced into the choicer parts of the planta-
tions that often surround our English gardens."
His well-timed remark that these and " many
other hardy exotic Ferns will take care of
themselves or nearly so, and that an admixture
of the foreign species with English Ferns in the
wild garden would make it a much more inter-
esting place than it sometimes is," I consider,
most judicious and deserving special attention.
In most gardens now-a-days the more plants
requiring but little or no attention that can
be introduced the better, for in gardening
matters, and especially in garden expenditure,
economy and retrenchment appear to be the
order of the day, and the question of reduction
of labour is a point which is carefully studied by
amateurs and gardeners alike, especially when
applied to outdoor gardening. I fully agree
with Mr. Harmer's statement respecting all the
Ferns named in his note, which, as lie says, are
at their best when planted in close proximity to
the water, and I quite agree with him as to the
uses to which these plants can be put with
advantage in the wild garden, where nothing can
be more effective than chimps of Onoclea sensi-
bilis, Strutliiopteris pennsyivanica, or any of
the Osmundas planted by the brook-side.

The three Osmundas mentioned in Mr. Har-
mer's list, viz. , O. cinnamomea, 0. interrupta,
and O. spectabilis, are all equally beautiful as
decorative plants, and, on account of their
singular mode of fruititication, two of these
possess a very peculiar appearance, which
greatly adds to their attraction. Thus, when
fertile,

Osmcnda cinnamomea, which is stated by E. J.
Lowe to have been introduced into the Royal
Gardens, Kew, in 1"7'2, and which is found in
Japan, Manchuria, Brazil, and Mexico, as well as
in North America, cannot be mistaken for any
other known kind, as the fertile fronds, which
rise from the centre of the plant in early spring,
are at first densely covered with a woolly sub-
stance of a light brown colour, but when un-
folded, the abundant spore masses give them the
characteristic cinnamon-brown colouring not
found in any other known species. The barren
fronds soon follow the fertile ones ; they are
regularly disposed and form, as it were, a magnifi-
cent light green vase, within which the brown
plumes of fructification stand erect. Equally dis-
tinct and striking is

O. interrupta or Claytoniana, which, though
considered a North American species, has, accord-
ing to Col. Beddome, been found on the Hima-
layas up to 10,000 feet elevation. Its barren
fronds, which form the outer part of the plant,
are of a bright pea-green colour and soft texture,
while the fertile ones, which are usually taller,
stand close together, nearly upright in the centre
of the crown. They never bear fructification at
their summit, as is the case with our O. regalis,
nor are they ever totally fertile like those of O.
cinnamomea ; their fertile leaflets are situated
somewhere near the centre of the frond, most fre-
qently a little above the middle.

O. SPECTABILIS, also found in gardens under the
name of O. gracilis, is of less dimensions than the
foregoing ; it is a charming delicate looking Fern,
also native of North America, producing in great
abundance its slender fronds of a peculiarly me-
tallic-green colour, and seldom more than 15
inches long.

Nephrodium Goldieanum, N. intermedium,
and N. marginale are all strong-growing North
American species, producing their massive
fronds from occasionally agglomerated, but
usually solitary crowns, and the same remarks
also apply to Athyrium Michauxi and Aspidium
acrostichoides ; while, on the contrary, Cysto-
pteris bulbifera and Woodsia obtusa invariably
show clustered or agglomerated crowns. The
former,

G'ystopteris nn.r.iFERA, a singular and elegant
species, taking its name from the large fleshy
bulbils borne on its upper leaflets, is essentially a
North American species, but quite as hardy as
any of the British kinds. It is found growing
wild on dripping rocky banks and in moist places
amongst rocks, and sometimes where there are no
rocks, from Canada and New England to Ten-
nessee, and westward to Wisconsin and Arkansas.
Its fronds, which are of a thin, papery texture,
and which wither at the first appearance of frost,
seldom exceed a foot in length. The bulbils, by
which this species is readily distinguished from
all others and by means of which it is easily pro-
pagated, are usually disposed at the base of the
leaflets on their under side.

Eaton states ("Ferns of North America,"
vol. ii., p. 190) that

Woodsia obtusa grows on moist rocks and
stony hillsides, and is not rare from New Eng-
land to Wisconsin and Georgia and Central Ala-
bama, but always in damp positions. Although
this is the strongest growing species known, its
very elegant fronds seldom measure more than a
foot in length.

Although they are quite hardy and may be
easily acclimatised in this country, all the fore-
going being plants producing their fronds from
crowns do not spread so rapidly as the follow-

ing, also contained in Mr. Harmer's list, and
which are provided with rhizomes spreading apace
and taking firm possession of the ground when-
ever they find themselves in a suitable position,
that is to say, a naturally damp place and a
ground formed in greater part of decayed vege-
table matter. It is in such situation and ex-
posed to the action of the air, though not of the
full sun, that the beautiful

Onoclea sensibims, which Lowe tells us is the
oldest of exotic Ferns introduced to Europe, hav-
ing been imported from North America in l(i!)f), is
seen in all its glory. Its barren fronds, which
under these circumstances, as stated by Mr.
Harmer, attain 3 feet in length, are of very pleas-
ing, soft pale green colour above and slightly
bluish on their underside. They are very sensi-
tive to cold temperature, for the first autumn frost
generally destroys them. The fertile fronds,
which are sparingly produced, are so unlike the
barren ones, that they do not appear as if related to
each other ; they are about half the height of the
barren ones, perfectly rigid and nearly black when
fully developed, and instead of being cut down by
the frost they dry up in winter, but remain erect
during the following summer, so that a fruiting
plant often bears fertile fronds of two years'
growth.

Adiantum tedatitm, the Canadian Maiden-hair
Fern, is the only Adiantum which we know as
perfectly hardy here, and we have it on the au-
thority of E. J. Lowe that in January, 1854,
plants of A. pedatum lived out of doors with the
temperature of 0' below zero of Fahrenheit's ther-
mometer. It is possible that if in some places
in England failure has attended the attempt at
acclimatising this species outside, it is due to the
fact that the underground rhizjmes are generally
kept too close to the surface of the ground, so
that they are not protected in winter by either
leaves or snow, and thus feel more keenly the
effects of cold, though usually less severe than that
of its own country. It is a plant of thoroughly
distinct habit, its bird's-foot-shaped fronds, of a
pale green colour and delicate texture, borne on
long black or dark purplish stalks, attaining about
2 feet in height and forming good bushy masses of
foliage. Eaton, in vol. i. of "Ferns of North
America," states that in Canada this Fern grows
abundantly in moist woods, especially among
rocks, and that in such places it forms under the
shelter of trees patches covering several acres at
a stretch. In such a position the underground
rhizomes often lie buried 6 inches deep, or even
more in decayed vegetable matter produced
through the annual fall of leaves, the fronds hav-
ing to penetrate through this before they reach
the surface of the soil. According to eye wit-
nesses, these masses of A. pedatum with light pea-
green foliage are a grand sight.

Polypodium hexahonopterum. — This essen-
tially North American Fern is found in moist
woodlands from Canada to Florida, where it de-
lights in a naturally cool position and in a soil
of a moist, spongy nature. Its slender and wide-
creeping rhizomes, sometimes 1 foot long and of a
somewhat fleshy nature, creep just beneath the
surface of the ground, and its handsome fronds,
which in shape somewhat resemble those of our
common Beech Fern, but attain much larger
dimensions, are of a particularly pleasing light
green colour and produced abundantly through
the whole summer.

Struthiopteris pennsylvanica, commonly
known in North America as the Ostrich Feather
Fern, is described by Eaton in vol. ii. of " Ferns
of North America " as being one of the finest Ferns
of the New World, for he states that " Its grand,
vase-like circle of foliage is often higher than a
man'shead and sometimes extends above hisutmost
reach, its barren fronds attaining 10 feet in
length." It has never come to my knowledge
that the plant has attained such dimensions
in this country. The places where the plants
mentioned by Eaton were found growing were
low grounds of fine alluvial soil, subject to the
overflow of rivers from the Saskatchewan and Lake

218

THE GABDEtt

.March 30, 1895.

Winnipeg to New Brunswick, and southward to
Pennsylvania and Illinois. In such position the
underground rhizomes or stolons, which extend to
very long distances, are produced in great quan-
tities and very soon form quite a little forest of
young plants. As in the Onoelea sensibilis, which
also thrives best under similar conditions, the
fertile fronds, entirely distinct from the others,
are much shorter than the barren ones and much
contracted. They are produced only in the
autumn or late in the summer, and disposed in
the middle of the crown, where they stand per-
fectly erect.

To the list of hardy exotic Ferns given by Mr-
Harmer may be added several species provided
with rhizomes, such, for instance, as

Dicksonia punctiloba, also a native of North
America, where it is known under the popular
name of Hay-scented Fern. Its finely-cut and
very elegant fronds, about 18 inches long, are
abundantly produced from slender rhizomes,
which creep extensively 1 inch or 2 inches below
the surface of the ground. In its native habitats
it is found growing in moist woods and often in
low, grassy places. It is, according to Eaton, a
common Fern in New Brunswick, Canada and the
Middle States of North America.

Woodwardia areolata, or, as it is also called,
W. angustifolia, is a very handsome species of
medium dimensions and essentially of North
American origin, being, according to Eaton,
plentiful in certain localities from Massachusetts
to Florida and Louisiana, where it is found grow-
ing in swampy woods and apparently never very
far from the rivers. The fertile and barren fronds
in this species are totally different ; the latter, by
far the more abundant, are about 2 feet long,
while the fertile ones are considerably taller and
borne on longer and much darker coloured stalks.
In

Woodwardia virc4inica we have another North
American species especially adapted for cultiva-
tion along the water edge of our brooks and ponds.
Eaton, in his splendid work "Ferns of North
America," speaking of this particular plant, gives
its range of habitat as from Canada and New
England to Florida and westward to Louisiana ;
he also states that it grows in swamps often where
the depth of water renders the plant almost in-
accessible, and that in seasons when the ponds are
nearly dry the root-stock may be traced a long
distance from the fronds, as he has personally
torn up a root-stock or rhizome 10 feet long and
over G feet undecayed. This rhizome, which is
nearly as thick as a man's little finger, irregularly
branched, soft and fleshy, creeps just beneath the
surface of the firm mud at the bottom of the shal-
low ponds in which it prefers to grow.

These, intermixed with such of our own
British Ferns as Osmunda regalis, Lastrea
Thelypteris, numerous forms of Lastrea Filix-
mas and Seolopendrium, all of which enjoy a
wet or constantly moist position in the wild
garden, would when once established require
no further attention, but year by year produce
their elegant foliage, which would form a special
feature in the natural garden, as other Ferns of
a more tender nature do in a winter garden.
All the above-named plants are perfectly hardy,
even such a winter as the late one having no
ill-effects upon them. With a little care and
attention, several of the Japanese Ferns usually
grown in houses could also be used with advan-
tage for planting out-of-doors, and by their
bolder and more massive foliage produce a
splendid contrast in the wild garden. Among
these may be noted Cyrtomium anomophyllum
and C. falcatuni, Lastrea Standishi, Lastrea
atrata, L. opaca, and L. erythrosora, Polysti-
chum setosum, Dictyogramma japonica, &c,
all of which are already well established in
the woods of some favoured and sheltered
English gardens. A covering of dry leaves
over the crowns is all the protection they re-
ceive during the winter, at other times requir-

ing no more attention than any of the com-
monest of our British Ferns. Mr. Harmer's
remarks respecting the damp position most
favourable to the Ferns he names and to others
goes far to prove the fallacy of " giving a rest"
to hardy Ferns grown in pots and keeping them,
as many people still do, dry at the roots from
November to February or March, at which time
it is found that some have taken to "slumber-
ing " to such an alarming extent, that they can-
not be awakened even by the spring rains and
the warmth of summer days, while those which
after a long spell of dry treatment can be
induced to make a start are usually very weak,
and show unmistakably that the *' rest," instead
of having been beneficial to them, has really
weakened their constitution to a very great
extent. This is very easily accounted for, as
if we observe the course of Nature we find that,
instead of our native Ferns being dried up in
winter, it is during that portion of the year that
they are naturally provided with the greatest
abundance of water at the roots. In the case
of such sjjecies as Polypodiums, Blechnums,
Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum, which are usually
found growing on hill-sides, amongst bushes
and under the hedges, the rain-water, more
plentiful in winter than in summer, reaches them
more readily and in much greater quantity on
account of the trees and bushes overhanging
them being deprived of their foliage, in conse-
quence of which the ground under them is
kept constantly wet during the period of four
or five months of autumn and winter. As
regards Osmundas, Scolopendriums, certain
Lastreas, Athyriums, many of these are found
growing wild in low-lying districts where for
weeks, sometimes even for months, they are
kept totally under water through the annual
overflow of some river or an excessive quantity
of rain. It is therefore evident that a resting or
dry treatment of hardy Ferns, British or exotic,
while they are in a dormant state is pernicious to
them, as it causes their crowns to become annually
weaker and weaker. Those species provided
with rhizomes on which the plants are dependent
for the strength of their new growth become
shrivelled and in course of time thoroughly
exhausted, instead of increasing in numbers, size
and vigour, as they do when in a wild state and
under the influence of natural and constant
moisture. It may safely be said that with Ferns,
as with most other plants, it is by far the best to
imitate Nature as far as practicable, a course
which in this case may be followed without
trouble or inconvenience and at very little
expense. Doodia.

Onoelea sensibilis. — Mr. Harmer's note on
this (p. 109) is instructive and interesting. He
very properly shows my treatment of this plant
as somewhat opposite to Nature. I did convey
the idea of growing it on a dry bank, whereas
the habitat of the species is the cold swamps of
Canada, but it did not belong to the theory that
I was then discussing to give an explanation why
I so planted it. I feel called on now, however, to
do so. If you take a plant native of a cold,
swampy habitat in colder latitudes than our own,
unless you employ some counterbalancing means,
you get the plant into much earlier growth than
is desirable. That would not matter so very
much, but this Fern chances to be one whose
young fronds cannot endure our late frosts. My
point therefore was to give it a set of conditions
that would hold it back from early growths, and
so prevent injury to what should be the finest
fronds. I am successful in this respect, and as
evidence that the big sandstones under and
around which the rhizomes run afford the desired
amount of moisture, the one plant set, perhaps,
eight years ago has spread immensely. Do we
not also find other plants respecting which it

would be better could we keep back their early
growths, for instance, Dicentra epectabilis, from
Siberia? Still further, we also find that some
plants found wild in moist or boggy surround-
ings do better in this country treated as ordinary
border plants, such as the Pampas and other
Grasses. — J. Wood.

Ferns for a wall (H. F. A*.).— The following
are among the most suitable Ferns of rapid
growth which may be used for growing on a wall
in a fernery with average temperature — 55° to
65*:—
Adianturn

*Phlebodimn aureum
*Polypodium nigrescens
pustulatum

* verrucosum
Pteris cretica

albo-liueata

* longifolia
*Stenochlaena scandeus
*Woodwardia radicans

orientalis

capillus • Ve-
neris
Mariesi
cuneatum elegans
fragrantissimuni
venustum
Blecliuum linceolatum
Hypolepis distans
*Nephrolepis davallioides

* furcans

* exaltata
pectinata
tuberusa

Others, such as Davallia bullata, decora, dis-
secta, elegans, immersa, Mariesi, and Tyermanni
are also very suitable for that purpose, but their
growth is not so rapid as that of the above-named
species. The plants marked * are the largest
growing kinds. As yours is a light place with
no creepers covering the roof, you should have no
difficulty in growing and flowering —

Abutilon Boule de Neige
(white)
Boule d'Or (yellow)
Sanglant (bright red)
*^Eachynanthus Lobbi -
anas

* graiidi<iorus

* splendidus
Antburiuni Scherzeri-

anurn
Andreanum
*Aristolucbia elegans

Begonias of sorts

Gardenia citriodora
#Gloriosa superba
*Hoya carnosa

Impatiens Sultani

Libonia floribunda

Meyeuia ereeta

Rivinia lnumlis (scarlet
berries)
*Stigmaphyllon ciliatum

Torenia asiatica
Bailloni

If you wish to have Orchids to flower in such a
place, the most suitable are Ada aurantiaca, Coch-
lioda Noezliana, Ccelogyne cristata and C. ocellata,
Dendrochilum glumaceum and filiforme, Phaius
grandifolius, Zygopetalum crinitum and Mackayi.
The plants marked * are of a climbing nature.

The black Vine weevil. — In taking down
part of my fernery (cork), amongst the soil were
some small maggot-like insects. To-day I repotted
some Adiantums, and in one 8-inch pot I found
thirty-four of the same kind of maggot, a few of
which I send you. Will you oblige by saying
what they are, and how to prevent breeding, and
mode of capture ? — Wm. Lee.

%* The maggots you find at the roots of your
Ferns are the grubs of the black Vine weevil
(Otiorhynchus sulcatus). Besides destroying the
roots of Ferns they attack those of Primulas,
Cyclamens and various other soft-rooted plants.
The beetles you find later in the season in your
Ferns at night are the parent insects ; they feed on
the foliage of many kinds of plants, and are par-
ticularly fond of Vines. I do not know of any
practical way of destroying the grubs but picking
them out from among the roots. It is almost im-
possible to make insecticides reach them without
injuring the plants. As regards destroying the
beetles, you cannot do better than search for them
with a light, as you have done. Laying the plants
on their sides on a white sheet during the day is a
useful thing to do, as the weevils sometimes drop
off as soon as a light at night shines on them. If
they fall into the pot among the stems of the
fronds they are not easily seen, but on a white
sheet they cannot escape notice. — G. S. S.

Grubs infesting Maiden-hair Ferns. — In

reply to the enclosed from F. Thirlby, the grubs
you find under the crowns of your Maiden-hair
Ferns are those of the black Vine weevil (Otio-
rhynchus sulcatus), a common and most destruc-
tive pest. These grubs live at the roots of many
kinds of plants, Cyclamens, Primulas and Ferns
being their special favourites. From their posi-

/

i

TEA ROSE DUCHESSE D'AUERSTADT.

March 30, 1 fey 5.1

THE GARDEN

219

tion it is impossible to make any insecticide reach
them with sufficient strength without injuring the
plants, so that searching for the grubs at the roots
is the only practicable way of getting rid of them.
The weevils are also very injurious ; they feed on
the leaves and young shoots of various plants,
Vines being very attractive to them. They are
about three-eighths of an inch in length and en-
tirely black in colour. The head is produced into
a long snout, which bears a pair of longish an-
tennas. They fped at night and are seldom seen
during the day, as they hide themselves most care-
fully under some shelter. When a plant is found
to be attacked by them it should be laid on its
side if possible with a white sheet underneath it ;
then when it is dark it should be carefully searched
with a strong light. The insects often fall when
disturbed, and they may then be caught on the
sheet. The plant should be suddenly tapped or
shaken, in order to make them fall. — G. S. S.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1007.

THE CLIMBING DIJON TEAS.

(with a coloured plate of dt7chesse
d'auerstadt.*)

The vigorous climbing Dijon Teas are appro-
priately named, because they all in a great
measure possess the distinctive merits of that
noble Rose. Those who would cover their
walls with Roses of undoubted hardiness and
have flowers for a long season will not be dis-
appointed if they grow the best varieties in this
section. Not only on walls, but elsewhere
about the garden these Roses should be planted
where there is no necessity to restrict them.
A few of the more recent additions to this class
appear to need the several benefits that follow
from growing them upon a wall, but even these
abundantly repay the cultivator who, having
found out their requirements, endeavours to
.supply them. Although all the best of the
Dijou Teas have been enumerated at different
times, it will perhaps be a useful guide to some
if their names are once more given and then-
distinctive or special merits briefly stated : —

Gluire de Dijon, known to every lover of
Roses, needs no praise. On walls, on fences in
any aspect it flowers finely. It should also be
planted in bold masses in the garden away from
any structure.

Bouquet d'Ob, another most important kind, is
one of the grandest Roses in our gardens. It
blooms more abundantly than Gloire de Dijon,
whilst its flowers are of better shape — in fact, it is
the very best of this race, good always on walls,
fences, or as a large mass in open beds and
borders. It was figured in The Garden,
February '22, 1890.

Mme. Berard, a very handsome, full, well-
formed Rose, is easily distinguished by its long
red-barked, almost thornless shoots. It is a
vigorous grower, rather subject to mildew against
walls in a sunny aspect, but not so liable to this
pest on fences. As a bush it also does well. Its
flowers are pale salmon fringed with yellow, which
deepens into a rose tint.

Emilie Dupuy, another distinct kind, produces
flowers of great substance. The bud is so hard as
to give an impression that the flower can never
come to perfection, but gradually it unfolds into
a bloom of splendid form, the colour a clear pale
fawn-yellow. Some have found a difficulty in
distinguishing this Rose from Bouquet d'Or, but
it is easy to do so. Emilie Dupuy invariably pro-
duces one flower on a lateral shoot, whilst Bouquet

* Drawn for The Garden at Giavetye by H. G.
Mood, July 14, 1894. Lithographed and printed by
Guillaume Severeyns.

d'Or gives clusters of three or more. This Rose
was figured in The Garden of May 10, 1890.

Duchesse dAuerstadt, now illustrated, and
one of the more recent additions, does not quite
reach the high standard of general merit that
characterises all the preceding varieties. It has
come rather short of the early estimate that was
formed of its worth. Sent out in 1887, a summer
of unusual brightness, the sun favoured the pro-
duction of splendid flowers. It is said to be a
seedling from Reve d'Or, and possesses extra-
ordinary vigour. The flowers shown in the
accompanying plate were cut from large bushes
growing in an open border. A wall with a sunny
aspect will give the best results with flowers of the
richest colour, yellow, deepening into nankeen in
the centre. The petals are thick, and the flower
one of great substance.

Henriette de Beauveau, also sent out in 1887,
is a satisfactory Rose on a wall with plenty of
room to lay in its long rambling shoots. Its
flowers, freely produced, are of a clear canary-
yellow colour and very sweet-scented.

Mme. Chauvry, which first appeared in 1886, is
the result of a cross between Mme. Berard and
W. A. Richardson. In its leafage, comparatively
thornless shoots, form and fulness of flower it
partakes closely of the character of the former
parent, whilst its colour is a rich, deep apricot-
yellow. When first sent out it flowered well in
the open and upon walls, but it does not seem to
have found much favour yet in gardens.

Kaiserin Friedrich is one of the most recent
additions deserving mention. It is said to be a
cfoss between Gloire de Dijon and Perle des
Jardins. It has the vigorous climbing habit and
handsome foliage of the Dijon varieties, producing
flowers of a pale fawn yellow, which especially
in autumn have rosy suffusions of colour.

Mme. B. Levet and Mme. Eugene Verdier
may be taken together, as they agree in being de-
cidedly shy bloomers, though lovely and distinct
in shape and colour, the former clear lemon-yellow,
the latter deep orange-yellow, both exquisitely
sweet-scented. A. H.

The Week's Work.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Earliest Tomatoes. — Plants for producing ripe
fruit in May which were sown in January and
duly shifted into 4i-inch pots will now be ready
for removal into their fruiting pots. If the happy
medium has been aimed at in regard to tempera-
ture, long-jointed, leggy plants will have been
avoided, and the extremities of the leading growths
will already be showing flower. In potting this
early lot I always cut off several of the lowest
leaves and sink the plant well into the pot. By
this means additional roots are emitted from the
stem, and the first clusters of fruit are brought
nearer to the bottom of the trellis. Use 10-inch
pots, drain well, and have good holding loam, add-
ing road grit or mortar rubble as a corrective.
Grow the plants as near the roof glass as possible,
training to a wire trellis on a single stem, and
keep all side shoots closely pinched. A tempera-
ture of 00J at night is very suitable, admitting air
freely on all fine days, but avoiding cold currents,
closing early to make the best of sun heat. Be-
ware of animal manure in potting, as this induces
rank, unfruitful growth, and a stimulant can always
be applied when the crop is set. Avoid also
freshly cut turf, as if this contains any wireworm
they will probably tunnel up every stem and ruin
the plants. Soil that has laid a twelvemonth
should always be used. I do not approve of
syringing overhead, nor yet of shutting up with
too much atmospheric moisture. This encourages
weak flower-trusses and makes way for disease.
An inch of soil is quite sufficient for covering the
roots with at first, slight top-dressings being
given as new colonies of fibres show themselves.
Early in the year artificial fertilisation is need-
ful, no damping of floors being practised in

the forenoon, that the pollen may have a chance
of drying. Plants raised from cuttings last
autumn and which were potted on early in the
new year are now yielding a useful lot of fruit.
As soon as the limit of trellis room has been
reached and a full crop set, give the last surface
dressing of loam and farmyard manure. This
will aid in swelling up fine fruit. Do not, how-
ever, apply it until the above-named stage is
reached.

Main crop Parsnips.— The present is the best
time in the majority of gardens to get in the main
crop of this nutritious vegetable. For an early
row a week or two since I recommended the old
Hollow Crowned variety. Now, however, the
Student is to be preferred. A good depth of
friable soil free from large stones must be chosen
if symmetrical well-flavoured roots are required.
Give plenty of room between the rows and tread
very firmly both before drawing the drills and
after the seed is sown. If the ground is not in
good condition, do not dig in strong manure, but
rather stir in some approved fertiliser and give
additional broadcast supplies when in free growth.

Mushrooms. — As a rule it is not advisable to
make up fresh beds in the majority of houses after
this date, as by the time the spawn is in full
operation the sun raises the temperature to such
a degree that unsatisfactory growth coupled with
wholesale attacks from grub generally ensue. In
isolated houses, however, favoured with special
shade and coolness, even April-formed beds some-
times prove fertile and lasting. Beds now in bear-
ing should be encouraged to last their normal
time by maintaining a cool moist atmosphere,
using little or no fire-heat. Much more water
will also be needed on the surface of the beds than
heretofore, but this must still be applied in a luke-
warm state and saturation must be guarded
against. Sometimes apparently exhausted beds
may be again brought into a more or less produc-
tive state by soaking them well through with
warm water, into which a medium quantity of salt
has been stirred.

Open-air beds. — Where an all-the-year-round
supply is necessary, it is advisable to have a
couple of good large beds in the open air ; the
first of these to be made up at the present time
for May bearing, the second following six or
seven weeks later on. In forming such beds posi-
tion is of much importance. I do not advise
a north aspect, as these beds must be made of
good depth, and if gloomy, sunless weather
occurs in May and June, the heat is not
maintained sufficiently to induce the spawn to
run freely and the yield is consequently unsatis-
factory. I have seen good crops from beds made
beneath large trees, the foliage shading from the
direct rays of the sun by the time shade is most
needed. No fear need be entertained of drip, as
if the beds are made in ridge form, which is the
best, they can be well covered with Bracken
or straw and wide boards nailed together
and placed on either side, meeting at the
top and making the whole waterproof. It is
sometimes difficult to obtain sufficient horse
droppings for such spacious beds, but dry Oak or
Beech leaves may be added in the proportion of
one part to four of the horse manure. Some good
turfy soil may also be incorporated. If the spawn
is inserted when the heat stands at 90J, the bed
may at once be soiled and covered down, as there
is not much fear of any reaction, which sometimes
occurs in beds under cover.

Cucumbers. — January-sown plants will now be
coming on apace, and will soon supplement the
winter fruiters which are still bearing freely. If
any extra early fruit is formed on the main stem
or on the first laterals, it will be wise to remove
it. If there is ample room for the plants, do
not pinch too rigidly, but allow the growths to
extend somewhat, reducing their numbers if too
crowded. This will encourage the formation of a
multitude of roots and lay a good foundation for
free and continuous cropping. As each fresh
colony of 3'oung roots appears surface the bed
with good rough loam and road grit, adding a
little artificial manure in the case of weakly

220

THE GARDEN

[March 30, 1835.

plants, but withholding all stimulants where
growth is strong enough. A night heat of 70"
when mild weather prevails will be suitable,
closing early and dewing the foliage over with
tepid soft water. The floors also must be kept
moist by sprinkling thrice daily. Where plenty
of house room is at command another sowing may
now be made for succession. I always grow Per-
petual Bearer for first and second earlies, as it
possesses every good quality which may be ex-
pected in a Cucumber. Much bottom-heat after
this date will not be necessary when sowing, as if
the pots are stood on Moss on warm kerbs or
shelves and the soil kept on the dry side, the
seedlings will appear in a few days. When sow-
ing, leave a slight margin for earthing up later
on ; this will steady the plants and induce new
roots. J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Fruiting Pines. — If the advice given previously
has been followed the early fruiting Queens will
now be making good progress. During February
little growth was made, the severe cold and lack
of sun being unfavourable to the plants. The
plants now throwing up their fruits freely will
need encouragement in the way of liquid food and
a moist atmosphere to induce robust growth. If
the bottom-heat is supplied by hot water there
will be no difficulty in maintaining a temperature
of 85°, and it is well to shift the plants about as little
as possible at this stage. I previously noted the
importance of securing a steady bottom-heat at
this season. Many plants will be in flower, and
being later than usual will need plenty of assist-
ance, but during the flowering period syringing
overhead should entirely cease. After the plants
are past the flowering stage more moisture is ne-
cessary. Many good growers do not damp over-
head till the flowers are set. Should the bottom-
heat get low lose no time in adding fresh warm
material, doing the work carefully and quickly.
The plants after this date will take regular
supplies of weak, tepid, liquid manure or guano
water, and the spaces between the plants may be
occasionally damped over with the fertiliser. This
charges the atmosphere with ammonia and pro-
motes a luxuriant growth. The evaporating pans
may also be filled at times with weak liquid ma-
nure. It is well now to keep the plants in a uni-
formly moist state, but avoid excess or saturating
the soil. Large plants that have failed to fruit
will need different treatment. It is advisable to
Btand them at the coolest part of the house, keep-
ing them rather dry at the root till they push up
their fruit. The house should be closed early,
allowing the thermometer to rise, at the same time
syringing freely, the night temperature being as
near 70° as possible, with an increase of 5° to 10°
during the day and air on. Keep a sharp look-out
for drip in badly glazed pits, as this soon ruins a
good fruit in its early stages. In dull weather it
will be found best to damp only the floors and
walls.

Succession fruiters. — The large plants of
Smooth Cayenne, Rothschild and Jamaica will
now be growing freely. To these should be added
the late batches of Queen. Repotting of growing
stock should now be general, if any of the plants
are starved or in a sour condition, careful re-
potting will not prevent the plants fruiting, but
they will require careful watering and regular
warmth at the roots for a few weeks. Large
plants at all loose should have some pieces of
dry turfy loam packed round the collars and
the surface made firm. Succession plants requiring
a good shift, if at all dry at the root, should be
gradually moistened with tepid water before re-
potting and the plants encouraged to grow freely.
The compost, pots and clean drainage should be
all prepared before the work commences, so as to
get through the potting as expeditiously as pos-
sible. After potting give a liberal bottom-heat,
say 85° to 90°, and the water used should be of
the same temperature as the bottom-heat, but the
plants must be kept on the dry side till new roots
are made. In potting it is well to ram the soil as

firmly as possible, and with robust plants to mix
a small quantity of bone meal and soot in the com-
post. Many growers use bones as drainage, but I
prefer bone meal in the soil ; the roots find it more
quickly and get more benefit.

Young plants. — Many will this season have
deferred potting up late suckers of last year and
the general stock of what may be called the late
successions. A few of these potted up early last
season will be strong enough for a final shift.
They may be treated as advised for succession
fruiters and placed in that division, thus getting
more generous treatment. The unfavourable
weather having delayed potting, it is well to push
on with the work now and to get a liberal quan-
tity of heating materials for bottom-heat in readi-
ness, if the small plants are grown in frames or
pits not heated by hot water. Obtain the best
fibrous loam possible and preserve it in a nice con-
dition by placing under cover. Shake out all
fine or dusty particles and use such additions as
advised for larger plants (bone meal and soot), with
abundance of clean drainage. Plants in 6-inch or
7-inch pots if strong and healthy will now require
pots four sizes larger. In repotting remove old
drainage and loose soil and spread the roots out at
the base on the new material. Plunge in a bottom-
heat of 85° to 90°, give a night temperature of
60° to 65°, and 5° to 7° higher by day, syringing
walls and surfaces, but only water the plants
sparingly till new root-growth is made. Small or
late suckers may have a shift, and any plants sour
or deficient of roots should be shaken out and re-
potted in small pots.

Early Figs in pots — The weather during the
early part of the year was most unfavourable for
early forcing, and the first crop will with some
varieties be thin. The newer kinds, St. John's
and Pingo de Mel, appear to set a first crop with
more freedom than any varieties I have grown.
Small plants in 10-inch and 1'2-inch pots carry a
lot of fruit, and with care will ripen well. Plants
in a small pot and with much leafage require a
lot of food in the way of liquid manure, but few
fruits resent excess of water so much as early pot
Figs. If at all saturated, the fruits turn yellow
just before the final swellingand drop. It is import-
ant to have free drainage and to use the liquid ma-
nure and water in a tepid state, soot water given in
a clear state being a valuable fertiliser. As the
ripening period approaches the syringe must be
used with care, well damping all available parts
of the trees, but not directly on the ripening
fruits. These soon burst if ripe. The flavour of
the fruit is much improved if left till the last
moment. To get flavour it is important to give
plenty of light, removing all superfluous growths
and ventilating freely in warm weather, shutting
up early to retain sun heat and charge the air
with moisture. Plants that have not been top-
dressed should receive attention, as the trees well
repay for extra food which assists in forming a
heavy second crop. The earliest pinched shoots
will ere this be growing away freely and the
small Figs swelling. These require liberal treat-
ment. All later growths should be stopped as
advised for earlier shoots at the fourth or fifth
joint, and small, weak wood removed entirely.
Suckers at the base must be removed, and as soon
a9 the firstfruits are gathered a temperature given
similar to that for early Vines.

Succession crops and planted-out trees. —
It is not often necessary to thin out the first crop
of fruit on planted-out trees. Last year the fruits
set very thickly, doubtless owing to the favour-
able season of 1.S93 ripening the wood. Where
thinning is necessary, no time should be lost in
going over the trees. Stopping will be the most
important work, and must be attended to well
into July, when the second growths must be left
to ripen. Trees that are at all weak should be
fed, giving a good mulch to those cropping freely ;
others that are shy fruiters should get plenty of
moisture, but it is not wise to feed, as Figs which
fruit sparingly have a tendency to grossness.
Trees with their roots restricted to a certain
space crop better, and feeding may be readily
adopted, giving dressings of turfy loam, with a

liberal quantity of manure and bone meal added.
The temperature may now range from 60° to 65°
at night, with an increase of 10° to 15° by day,
syringing freely twice a day, closing early and
damping all parts of the house. Should rust
appear on the foliage, overhead syringing must
be done with care, it is well to have the foliage
dry by sunset and to admit a little air early
in the day ; this removes moisture, makes the
leaves stouter, and the new growths less sappy.
By treating permanent trees well there is a good
second crop, and though the fruits will be smaller,
there will he more of them and of first-rate flavour.
Crowding the wood is the greatest evil at this
stage, and those who want quality in the fruits
will do well to admit plenty of light, removing
shoots not required and avoiding a high night
temperature.

Hardy Fig trees in the open. — These will in
many gardens have been closely covered, and it is
well to gradually uncover after severe frost. Many
who did not cover their trees will this season
have had them cut down to the soil, and in such
cases it will be impossible to get fruit this season.
The grower must endeavour to build up strong
fruiting wood for another year. In the selection
of wood it is well to bear in mind that strong
sappy shoots do not furnish the fruit. The new
growths must be well thinned and freely exposed.
Trees that are only slightly injured should now be
pruned, lightly cutting out dead wood and naked
branches. By this means the centre of the trees
is kept well furnished with young fruiting wood,
and there is less loss in severe seasons. I do not
advise laying in much sucker growth, but hard,
firm shoots which spring from the leading
branches. In training keep the trees close up to
the walls. It is well to restrict the leaders to a
certain space, as they bear little fruit when not
kept in check. The Fig produces so much wood
annually that there is little difficulty in laying in
plenty of good wood close to the main stems, and
as the fruits are produced on the points of last
year's growth, sufficient of this should be nailed
in to furnish a crop. G. Wythes.

Orchids.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON ORCHIDS.

Wf are now commencing the growing season for
Orchids, and increased supplies of moisture
will be required both at the roots and in the
atmosphere. The ventilation still requires the
greatest care, as advised in previous notes. All
shading should by this time be fixed, as the sun
is now very powerful. This must not be let
down except during the hottest part of bright
days, raising it again about 2 o'clock at the
latest, and closing the warm houses with plenty
of moisture. Where cool Orchids are grown in
a span-roofed structure running north and
south, the shading must be right down until
3 o'clock or later according to the weather,
keeping the day temperature as near 00° as
possible. Among the many Orchids that re-
quire repotting or surfacing now will be the
latest plants of Lselia anceps, also the spring-
flowering Dendrobes as they go out of bloom.
These latter should be kept in as small pots as
possible, especially the deciduous group, as D.
Bensonire and D. crassinode. After potting,
water must be judiciously applied, or the
young shoots will be apt to damp off. Sudden
exposure to strong sunlight is also very in-
jurious to these after being repotted, as how-
ever carefully done, it is to a certain extent
harmful by checking the progress of the roots.
Lycastes, Zygopetalums, Oncidiums of the Mar-
shallianum type, and any plants in the cool house
that are not in good order at the roots maynow be
attended to ; also many Cattleyas, as Trianre,
Percivaliana, and all the late autumn flowering

March 30, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

'221

species. Where there are many, such as Mil-
tonia vexillaria, Masdevallias, or any of the
Oncidiums with long branching panicles, coming
into flower, it may be found necessary to fumi
gate these lightly for a couple of evenings in
succession in case of thrips, green -fly, or other
insects being numerous. They should be ar-
ranged in one house, as many as practicable, and
must be shaded early the following morning if
bright, and if time can be found to do so, carefully
sponged after the last fumigation. The state of
growth must be the guide to watering, Pleiones
or Calanthea newly potted requiring very
little. Cymbidiums in flower or growing freely
need abundance, and as the spikes appear in
Odontoglossum citrosmum, the plants be well
soaked in a pail or tank to moisten every part
of the compost, thus plumping up the wasted-
looking pseudo-bulbs and enabling them to pro-
duce good healthy spikes. As the atmospheric
moisture is increased, greater care will be neces-
sary in keeping the flowers, those of Cattleya
Skinueri, C. Mendeli, and others being easily
spotted. If there is no flowering house, all
plants in blossom should be grouped in promi-
nent positions in the respective houses and less
water sprinkled upon the stages, floors, &c,
near them. A little more shade is also a great
advantage.

I have never had so little trouble with wrood-
lice and small snails in the houses as during this
spring, and this I attribute to the introduction
of a few French frogs. They are frequently to
be seen at night, more especially in and about
the plants, where, owing to their greater size
and weight, our English toads — useful as they
are — could not get. Continue to maintain a
sweet atmosphere in the houses by frequent
cleaning of the pots, stages and floors, removing
all decayed leaves, spent pseudo-bulbs or any-
thing that tends to make the plants look un-
tidy. Any Cattleyas or similar Orchids not re-
potted should, if necessary, be freshly tied up
and new stakes given where required. A mini-
mum temperature for the East India house
will now be 00° at night, running up to 70° on
dull days, 75° to 80° by sun heat. For the
Cattleyas 55° at night is ample, 65° by day,
allowing the temperature to rise gradually and
ventilating freely on hot days. The cool house
may range between 50° and 00° according to the
outside temperature, not exceeding the latter
figure exceptiug on very hot days. H. R.

Cypripedium Zeus. — This very pretty and
distinct hybrid is now flowering in the collection
of Mr. R. J. Measures at Cambridge Lodge, Cam-
berwell. It is a cross between C. callosum and C.
ciliolare. The flower is of fine proportions
and prettily marked, the dorsal sepal large,
white, veined in the centre with pale green and
on each side with rose ; the petals broad and
gracefully drooping, spotted with blackish spots,
and densely dotted at the base. The pouch
resembles very much in shape that of C. Curtisi,
but is not quite so deep in colour. The bloom is
borne well up upon a long stem, which rises from
nice clearly tessellated foliage. — W.

Dendrobium Brymerianum. — This fine spe-
cies is deservedly popular and a favourite wherever
grown. The beautifully fringed lip has a very
striking and unusual appearance, and the bright
golden colour is most attractive. D. Brymerianum
is a medium grower, and has somewhat fusi-
form stems about 15 inches high, bearing upon
the upper portions persistent green leaves. The
roots are large and rather fleshy in texture, and
the compost should for this reason be used in a
rough and open condition, good lumps of charcoal
being freely intermixed with the Sphagnum and
peat. It should be grown in a hot moist house,
and during this season must be plentifully supplied
with water at the root. After the growth is

finished I find it rests better if kept rather drier
than the evergreen section generally, but not
sufficiently so to distress the plants. A minimum
temperature of 50° is low enough for it during the
winter, but 5° less will do no harm provided it is
not accompanied by much atmospheric moisture.
It usually blooms upon the two-year-old growths,
and if well ripened in autumn the flowers are fairly
plentifully produced in short racemes of about 3
inches each, chiefly towards the top of the pseudo-
bulbs. Young plants raised from the growths
that are often produced from the tops grow freely,
and soon make flowering plants, as soon in fact as
they attain a height of about li inches. A small
growing variety of this Orchid sometimes appears
among importations, but is quite worthless as a
flowering plant, and only to be tolerated as a
botanical curiosity on account of the flowers being
self-fertilising, a lact proved by their fading and
the ovary swelling before they are properly open.
The type was introduced from Burmah in 1874,
and named in compliment to Mr. W. Brymer, of
Dorchester. — H. R.

DendrobiumWardianumf Broome's variety).
— A flower of this magnificent variety comes from
Mr. Broome, of Llandudno. It is very large, of
good form, and richly coloured. The sepals are
bright rosy magenta on the outer surface, which
distinctly shows through on the inner side, each
having a distinct clear white margin, heavily
tipped with crimson-magenta ; the petals are
broader than the sepals, pure white, and also
tipped with crimson-magenta, whilst the fine
large lip is recurved at the apex, and also has a
large blotch of the crimson-magenta colour — a
clear white zone running between that and the
bright orange-yellow throat, the two dark maroon
eye-like spots at the base being very prominent.
This is certainly a grand variety, and is said to
be more after the typical form, but more highly
coloured. — W.

CATTLEYA ACLANDI.K.
UN'FoRTrXATELv, this lovely little Orchid is not
frequently seen in good condition, and although a
little more difficult to grow than the larger habited
species, it will, in skilful hands, be usually satis-
factory. A frequent cause of failure with this kind
is allowing the flowers to remain upon the plants
too long, thus wasting their energies ; and when,
as often happens, the plants bloom twice in the
year the evil is intensified. From a week to
ten days is quite long enough to leave the flowers
on the plants, and if then cut and placed in water
they last fully as long. Many cultivators prefer
the block system for C. Aclandia', and there is
much to be said in its favour, as nothing can pos-
sibly surfeit the roots or cause them to decay
prematurely. The plants must, however, have the
best attention under this treatment and never be
allowed to suffer from want of water, or they quickly
become shrivelled and weakened. This is, per-
haps, even more to be guarded against in winter
than during the growing season, as the atmosphere
is so much drier. I was reminded of this recently
by a plant in a small collection in the neighbour-
hood. This had evidently been imported about
two years and had made good progress on the
block, the roots running from end to end of it
showing how they had enjoyed the atmosphere
provided for them while growing. The pseudo-
bulbs were, however, in a sad state, being
shrivelled almost to the vanishing point, and this
entirely owing to the want of water, as the plant
had flowered butonceand the blossoms had not been
allowed to remain on very long. With cultivation
of this careless order the plant would have been
much safer in a small basket or pan with peat and
Sphagnum, but if a little thought had been exer-
cised, it would have been different. The pseudo-
bulbs need only have been kept plump by due
attention to watering, and there would then have
been strong, healthy buds pushing, instead of
weak, flowerless, and puny growths. Thus it will
be seen that it is not so much the receptacle in
which the plants are grown as the treatment
they receive that is essential to success. The

species in question delights in a warm, moist
atmosphere and a light position while growing,
more especially at the latter end of the season. If
grown in pots or baskets, these, as indicated
above, should be small, as it dislikes a large body
of compost about its roots. It is a small-growing
kind, not usually more than 5 inches high, the
pseudo-bulbs slender, and bearing a pair of oval,
deep green leaves. When compared with the size
of the plant, the flowers are very large, frequently
from 34 inches to i inches across ; the colour
varies from dull green to brown on the sepals and
petals, which are spotted and streaked with yellow
and purple. The lip also varies in colour, is
spreading in front, narrower at the base, and, un-
like the majority of the genus, does not fold over
the column. C. Aclandia' is a native of Brazil,
whence it was introduced in 1839. It usually
flowers in June, but, as mentioned above, it some-
times produces a second lot of flowering growths.

R.

SMALL-GROWING VAKDAS.

The genus Vanda includes some of the finest
and most stately Orchids ever introduced, having
not only remarkably beautiful flowers, but hand-
some evergreen leaves, and therefore very orna-
mental throughout the whole year. Being
plants which come from a very hot quarter of
the globe, they naturally require strong heat
under cultivation, and this, with the large dimen-
sions that some of the kinds attain, do not admit
of them being generally grown. There are, how-
ever, some of very dwarf habit which should find
a place in every collection. During recent years
some beautiful additions have been made to
these small growing kinds which succeed ad-
mirably in quite a cool temperature. For these
dwarf Vandas baskets are preferable to either
pots or cylinders, as it is very essential that they
should have all the light possible ; in fact, they
require only to be shaded when the sun is very
powerful and the foliage is in danger of being
scorched. The baskets should be suspended
close to the roof and about two-thirds filled with
drainage, the remaining portion being living
Sphagnum Moss, which should be renewed
annually, or when not in a sweet condition.
During the summer and growing season water
should be freely supplied and the atmosphere
kept well charged with moisture, at which
season the temperature may rise to 80°, but
during the winter much less moisture, both at
the roots and in the atmosphere, will be re-
quired, the thermometer not being allowed to
descend lower than about 55° or ti0°, excepting
for V. Amesiana and V. Kimballiana. These
two kinds I have grown in quite a cool tempera-
ture, and they flower much better than when
placed in heat. It was in 1810 that the first
Vanda flowered in this country in the collection
of Sir Joseph Banks. This was V. Roxburghi,
upon which the genus was founded by Robert
Brown.

V. Roxburghi. — This plant grows about IS
inches to 2 feet high, the stem being furnished
with broad, curved, leathery leaves, each about
6 inches in length. The flowers, which are pro-
duced during the summer months, are borne upon
ascending racemes, which usually carry from six
to nine blossoms. The sepals and petals are pale
green, with chequered lines of olive-brown, the
outer surfaces being clear white ; the lip deep
violet-blue with small white side lobes. Among
some of the plants sent home a variety which has
the lip of a bright rosy red has appeared. This
species is very plentiful in Bengal and other parts
of India.

V. ccerulescens. — A very valuable addition to
this family, as the blooms are of the rare blue
which is so seldom found in plants. This plant
cannot compare with the large-growing blue kind
(V. ccerulea), but it is, nevertheless, an equally

222

THE GARDEN.

[Maech 30, 1895.

desirable plant. It produces strap-shaped leaves
upon an elongated stem, and usually flowers dur-
ing the early summer months, the erect slender
scape usually carrying over a dozen of these
charming blossoms. The sepals and petals are of
a pale mauve-blue, whilst the lip is rich violet.
This little gem was first discovered in Upper
Burmah in 1837, but was not introduced for thirty
years later, when it was sent home from the
Arracan Mountains, whereit grows at considerably
over 11)00 feet elevation. There are several fine
varieties of this plant.

V. Amesiana. — This is also a native of Upper
Burmah, and has only been introduced about six
or seven years. It was first discovered by Mr.
Boxall in the Shan States, where it grows upon
the mountains at an altitude where hoar frosts
appear during the resting season. The plant is of
a stiff dwarf habit, the leaves, which are upwards
of a foot in length, tapering to a point. The
flowers are borne in large quantities upon erect
stems, and have white sepals and petals flushed
with delicate rose, whilst the lip is of a rich
magenta. There is also a white variety, both of
which are very desirable, as the flowers appear in
the winter months.

V. Bensoni. — This is another small-growing
kind which has been grown in our gardens for
many years, and forms a pleasing companion to
V. ccerulescens and its varieties alluded to above.
The sepals and petals are yellowish and reticulated
with bright brown, and the lip is of a light rosy
purple. It first flowered with Messrs. Veitch
and Sons, of Chelsea, over twenty years ago, and
as it is found in the warmest parts of Burmah a
little warmer temperature will suit it best under
cultivation.

V. Denisoniana. — This is an exceedingly pretty
little kind, which was discovered by Col. Benson
growing on the Arracan Mountains at an eleva-
tion of over 2000 feet. The leaves are each from
(5 inches to a foot in length, and the raceme is
usually shorter than the foliage and few-flowered.
These, however, are upwards of 3 inches in dia-
meter, and very distinct from those of all other
kinds, being of clear ivory white in the sepals and
petals, the lip even purer white. A very charm-
ing variety of this beautiful Vanda appeared
amongst an importation of Messrs. B. S. Wil-
liams, of Holloway, about ten years ago, and
which was named V. Denisoniana hebraica, in
which the sepals and petals are sulphur-j'ellow
with transverse bars and spotted. This, how-
ever, appears to be a very rare plant.

V. Kimballiana. — Another recent addition
found by Mr. Boxall at the same time as V.
Amesiana, and introduced by Messrs. Low and
Co., of Clapton. It is one of the most beautiful
of all the small growing kinds, and, like its com-
panion, is especially adapted for amateurs who
have not the convenience and strong heat neces-
sary for many of the larger species. It is of
very dwarf habit with narrow leaves, and pro-
duces a spike of from six to a dozen blooms, which
are individually nearly 2 inches across. The
sepals and petals are pure white, the latter
prettily twisted, and the lip of a rich clear bright
purple.

There are also a few other kinds which might
be included in this list, but these alone would
form a very lovely collection.

Wm. Hugh Gower.

Dendrobium japonicum. — This is a pretty
little plant that one seldommeets with, and although
it is not one of the most showy species in this
family, it is decidedly worthy of attention and a
welcomeadditiontoour cool house kinds. Thestems,
which grow from 6 inches to 1 foot in length, are
slender and deciduous ; the flowers are each about
1J inches in diameter, the sepals and petals white
when first open, becoming flushed with age ; the
lip is recurved, also white, with a few purplish
dots at the base. This plant has been in cultiva-
tion for about thirty-five years, having been sent
from Japan to the Royal Gardens, Kew. It was,
however, known many years previously, for we

find it described by Dr. Lindley in his " Genera
and Species of Orchidaceous Plants " in 1831. A
very pretty specimen of this dwarf-growing plant
is now flowering with Messrs. J. Laing and Sons
at Forest Hill.— W.

Trees and Shrubs.

SPIRAEA LINDLEYANA.
There is a small group of shrubby Spiraeas re-
markable for their pinnate leaves, and of these
by far the best known as well as the largest is
that here illustrated — S. Lindleyana — which
will reach a height of from 12 feet to 15 feet,
and even higher. It pushes up suckers freely,
so that when occupying an isolated position
it usually forms a broad pyramidal mass or
clump well furnished with its beautiful pinnate
leaves. From this circumstance it forms a
really handsome object out of flower, but when
laden with its large branching panicles of white
flowers, as herein shown, its beauty is, of course,

lake. These do not exhibit the slightest sign of
having passed through 28° of frost. Fortunately,
the clumps in question were not exposed to
keen, cutting winds, which are more injurious to
Bamboos than severe frost. It would be difficult
to find a more pleasing and suitable subject for
waterside planting than this Bamboo, which grows
luxuriantly in any ordinary garden soil. — E. M.

Robinia hispida. — The French journal Le
Jardin for March 5 contains a most interesting
article on " Shrubs for Forcing," and quotes a long
list of flowering shrubs that were exhibited by
Messrs. Moser, of Versailles, at the Concours
General Agricole de Paris, held in the month
of February. Among those that are rarely seen
so treated in this country occurs the name of
Robinia hispida, which would be certainly very
distinct from any of its associates. The only other
leguminous plant whose name appears in the list
in question is Wistaria sinensis, or Glycine sinen-
sis, as our French neighbours often prefer to call
it. According to Messrs. Moser, both the Robinia
and the Wistaria give better results if they are
grown in pots a year before they are forced than
they do if lifted in the autumn, potted and taken
under cover for forcing in the coming spring.

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Spircea Lindleyana. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by Misa Bird, Esher.

gi-eatly enhanced. This Spiraea is specially
valuable from the fact that it is the last of the
genus to unfold its blossoms, though some of
the others may produce secondary blooms even
after this is past. S. Lindleyana is, as a rule, at
its best in August, though in some years it may
commence to flower in July, and I have also
noted it in good condition in September.
Should the winter be mild the leaves are
retained for long time. Though this Spirrea
is seen at its best when standing singly,
yet where associated with other shrubs and
ample space allowed for its development, it
forms a very imposing feature. Another
pinnate-leaved species is the Siberian S. sorbi-
folia, which usually reaches a height of about 4
feet to 5 feet. It blooms earlier than S. Lind-
leyana, and is wanting in the grace and elegance
of that species. In his monograph of the Spiraeas
M. Maximowicz places the pinnate-leaved
species by themselves under the generic name
of Sorbaria. T.

Bambusa Metake and the frost. — It is

pleasing to find how well this Bamboo has stood
the late wintry weather. We have here large
clumps of it growing freely by the side of a small

The Laburnum also generally does best if sub-
jected to the same kind of treatment. The bulk
of the exhibit consisted of Azaleas, Rhododendrons,
Lilacs and Magnolias, as well as Staphylea col-
chica, Andromeda japonica and the pretty little
Erica carnea or herbacea and its white variety.
Messrs. Moser also contribute a list of subjects
suitable for forcing other than those exhibited by
them, but all those mentioned are used in this
country for the same purpose, themosc uncommon
of the whole being Xanthoceras sorbifolia, whose
spikes of white blossoms with their peculiar
coppery blotch are very distinct from anything
else.— H. P.

Evergreen Euonymus.— One of the most
generally grown shrubs of an evergreen character
that we have in our gardens is the Japanese
Euonymus, of which immense numbers are sold
every year by our nurserymen. Several causes
combine to render it popular, as in the first place it
can be easily and quickly propagated by means of
cuttings ; next, the young plants grow freely, and
with a little attention it forms a neat bush, while
owing to the dense mass of roots it can be lifted
at almost any season of the year with little or no
injury. Added to all this is the fact that it is a
first-rate subject for planting in proximity to the
sea, and one of the best Evergreens we have for
towns and smoky districts. Just now in many

March 30, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

223

places, owing to the frost, its claim to be regarded
as an Evergreen does not rank high, as most of
the leaves are quite dead, while the shoots are killed
back for some distance. The destruction is by no
means uniform, as some plants have suffered much
more than others, even when separated by but a
few yards. This Euonymus, however, quickly
recovers, so that plants which just now present a
sorry spectacle will in many cases within a few
months show little or no trace of the ordeal
through which they have passed. As might be
supposed, the variegated -leaved varieties have in
most instances suffered a good deal more than the
ordinary green-leaved form, while the little neat-
growing variety microphyllus has been hard hit.
The close habit of this, combined with its deep
green foliage, renders it a very popular Evergreen
for window boxes and similar purposes during mild
winters, but an occasional severe one like this
has been will kill great numbers of it, and very
few will be seen for a year or two. The rambling
growing Euonymus radicans with its variegated-
leaved variety has not suffered nearly so much as
its larger relative, for in the case of E. radicans
there is in most instances but little damage done,
and, except some browned leaves, the plants bear
but little traces of the winter they have just
passed through. A distinct variety of E. radicans
known as Carrieri seems to be even less injured
than the type. — T.

Cunning-hamia sinensis. — This, better
known perhaps as Cunninghamia lanceolata, is
an exotic that has utterly failed to justify the ex-
pectations formed as to the position it was likely to
occupy in English gardens, as some little time after
its introduction in 1804 it was planted rather
freelj- in many places that had the reputation in
those days of attempting to naturalise novelties.
When I took charge of tho gardens here, some
thirteen }-ears ago, I found four specimens of this
Cunninghamia in various parts of the pleasure
grounds. Two of these were in such indifferent
health, dead branches decidedly predominating,
that their removal was at once effected, another
was slightly better, but a Deodar Cedar had been
planted too close, and a branch of the latter tree
coming away rather more horizontally than usual
had hopelessly crippled and disfigured the leader
of the Cunninghamia; the remaining tree was and
is a very fair specimen of its class. This for
some years had not had very good treatment, a
lot of big ponticum Rhododendrons being allowed
to grow into it on two sides. These were cut
hard away, and the tree is now fairly well fur-
nished on all sides and is nearly 25 feet high. A
drawback to the tree is the brown decaying
appearance of the foliage, a result apparently
the work of winter frosts. Cutting winds have
a similar effect on the foliage, and the planter
of the tree was evidently aware of this fact,
for it is in a very sheltered spot. I have been
led to furnish the foregoing particulars from the
fact that inquiries are often made respecting this
tree and the advice sometimes given to give it a
place in the flower garden or pleasure ground,
but from my experience with it here I cannot
agree with this. I should never find room for
another Cunninghamia. It is a pity that it is not
satisfactory, as appearances would seem to indi-
cate that, given a suitable climate, it would make
a very handsome tree ; the foliage not affected by
the weather is of a bright pleasing green, and the
general habit tends towards building up a well
furnished specimen, at the same time lacking the
excessive stiffness and formality that are charac-
teristic of many of the conifera?. — E. Burrell,
Claremont.

Death of Evergreens. — It is sad to walk just
now through some of our small towns and see all
the little gardens in mourning owing to dead
Evergreens. It shows well the thoughtless waste
that goes on in continually planting in our coun-
try Evergreens which are quite unable to support
hard weather away from sheltered places near the
sea shore. The fact that they escape in mild
winters makes them all the more ready for the
frost when it does come. Some of our Evergreens
that are common, like the Laurel and the Portugal

Laurel, grow so rapidly, are so easily raised in
nurseries, and look so glossy, everybody plants
them, but in any thoughtful way of planting,
things that are periodically killed should not be
planted. There are several things which are so
hardy as not to perish in such cases, such as the
Yew, Holly, several of the Pines besides the
Scotch Pine, and Box, which is very beautiful
when well grown. It is also a great mistake not
to trust more to summer leafing trees, which are
mostly much hardier than the Evergreens. Be-
tween the conifers and the common Evergreens
there has hardly been a place left in gardens for
the many beautiful things of Europe and America
which are quite hardy, and which go to rest in
winter as our Oaks and Birches do. In any case
a fine live Cockspur Thorn is better than a dead
Evergreen, and we are not sorry for the deaths of
themillionsof Evergreens so thoughtlessly planted.
They cast a gloom and a monotony over pleasure
grounds, which is death to the variety anil beauty
that are so easily attained if we do not give our-
selves over to the nursery mixture of things with
little merit save that of rapid growth, followed,
however, in hard winters by a still more rapid
death.— Field.

THE BEST OF THE PINE TRIBE.

A few tree-loving friends lately talked after dinner
about the large number of useless conifers, such
as the Wellingtonia, Araucaria and many other
half-hardy things, which, however good in their
own countries, are poor and useless in ours. After
deploring the great waste of money and good
ground caused by planting some of these trees
and the resulting ugliness, we endeavoured to
elicit opinions as to which among the many conifers
introduced to this country were really worth
planting. There were only about twenty thought
good enough, from a woodland point of view, to be
exempted from the general condemnation passed
upon conifers. We enumerate them : —

1. Silver Fir (Abies pec- 11. Thujopsis borealis
tinatai 12. Cupressua Lawsoniana

2. Coreican Pins (Pinus VI. Taxodiutn distichum
Laricio) 11. The Pineaater (Finns

3. Cedar of Lehinon (Ce- Pinaster)

driis Libani) 15. Colorado Douglas Fir

4. White Pino (Pinus (Abies Douglasi)
Strobua) IS. Abies nobilia

5. Swiss Pine (Pinus 17. Xordraanii's Kir ( A Iiil-s
Cembra) Nordmansiana)

C>. hareh 18. The Bhotan Pine

7. Black Spruce (Picea (Pinus exeelsa)
nigra) 19. Abies brachyphylla

8. Austrian Pine 20. Pinus monticola

'J. The Kocky Mountain 21. Tsuga Mertensiana

Spruce (Picea pun- 22. Thuja Lobbi

eens) 23. Picea orientalis
10. Picea concolor

A great many of the introduced Pine and Fir
tribe do well in some parts and not in others.
Some do best north, some south, some in valleys,
some on hills, some on one soil and some on
another. We omit the common Spruce, as it
is such a miserable failure in many soils.

THE FORESTS OF THE WABASH
VALLEY.

The composition of the remarkable forests
which, in spite of the terrible inroads that have
been made in them during the last twenty-five
years, still cover considerable portions of the
legion in Southern Illinois and Indiana watered
by the Wabash River and its tributaries was
first made known by a paper published in 1882
in the fifth volume of the "Proceedings of the
United States National Museum " by Dr. Robert
Ridgway, the ornithologist of the Smithsonian
Institution.

Dr. Ridgway was barn in Mount Carmel,
on the banks of the Wabash River, nearly
opposite the mouth of White River, and
his early work brought him into familiar

intercourse with the trees of that region.
By a piece of good fortune his investigations
have, moreover, been supplemented by those of
another naturalist — Dr. Jacob Schueck — who
for many years has lived in Mount Carmel and
has also been specially interested in trees. The
result of this fortunate association has been that
the forests in the neighbourhood of the mouth
of White River have been more carefully studied
than those in any other spot of equal interest
we>t of the Alleghany Mountains.

In a second paper on the Wabash Silva, re-
cently published in the seventeenth volume of
the " Proceedings of the National Museum,"
Professor Ridgway shows that the number of
indigenous arborescent species in the Wabash
valley south of the mouth of White River is 107,
or more than a quarter of all the arborescent
species in North America north of Mexico ; and
even this number can be slightly increased, as
one or two species of Crataegus, overlooked by
Professor Ridgway, grow Dear Mount Carmel.
Some idea of the surprising richness of the forest
flora in this region can be obtained by an
examination of Dr. Ridgway's list of trees
growing on restricted areas. On a tract
of 75 acres he found fifty-four species of
trees, and another of 22 acres contained forty-
three species. On a tract of 40 acres one mile
south-east of Olney, in Richland County, Illin-
ois, what the author modestly calls an imper-
fect survey of the woods shows thirty-six spe-
cies. The nearest approach to such a concen-
tration of tree species in a restricted area is in
Central Yezo, where Professor Sargent found
sixty-two species and varieties of trees growing
in the immediate neighbourhood of Sapporo at
practically one level above the sea. The height
attained by these Wabash valley trees is as re-
markable as the number of species in the forest.
Individuals of forty-two species reach a height
of 100 feet, and those of twenty-one species
grow to the height of 130 feet. Individuals
150 feet high of thirteen of these species have
been measured. A specimen of Quercus texana,
called Quercus cocciuea by Dr. Ridgway, the
tallest of the Wabash Oaks, and perhaps the
tallest Oak in North America, measured 180
feet and a Tulip tree 190 feet ; a Pecan, the
tallest Hickory, 175 feet ; a Cottonwood (Populus
monilifera), 170 feet; a Bur Oak (Quercus
macrocarpa), 165 feet ; while, in addition to the
trees already mentioned, a Liquidambar and a
Black Oak attained a height of 100 feet. The
size of the trunks of some of these trees,
measured at 3 feet above the surface of the
ground, is hardly less remarkable than their
height. A Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)
girthed 33, feet, a Tulip tree 25 feet, a White Oak
22 feet,a Black Walnut22feet,aBlack Oak 20feet,
and a Texas Oak 20 feet. In comparison with such
trees, the inhabitants of Eastern forests, where
trees 100 feet tall are extremely rare, appear
like pigmies, and persons familiar only with
forests of the Atlantic seaboard can form no
idea of the magnificence of these trees.

This region is the home of some of our mos
beautiful and valuable trees. On the bottom-
lands of the rivers the Pecan and the great
western Hickory (Hicoria laciniosa) grow with
all the Swamp White Oaks, the Pin Oak, the
Texas Oak, and that remarkable form of the
Spanish Oak, which, usually an upland tree,
sends up on these bottom-lauds a tall, beautiful
shaft covered with pale bark, which might
readily be mistaken for the trunk of one of the
White Oaks. The attention is first called to
this variety in Professor Ridgway's second
paper, although it has long been known to
southern lumbermen. Common in the Yazoo
delta and in Eastern Arkansas, and not rare in

224

THE GARDEN

[March 30, 1895

Northern Alabama and Western Florida, it is
valued as a timber tree, and is said to produce
wood equal to that of the White Oak. In the
Wabash valley the southern Cypress (Taxo-
dium), the Water Hickory, the Water Locust,
and the Planer Tree, all denizens of the south,
find their northern homes, and there the rare
Swamp Cottonwood grows to its largest size,
and the Catalpa displays its greatest beauty.
In these lowland forests great lianes festoon the
trees, and Dr. Ridgway tells us of Grape Vines
with stems more than 100 feet long and more
than a foot in diameter, and of Aristolochias,
Poison Ivies, and Bignonias nearly as large.
No other American forest scene is more beauti-
ful, and certainly no other forest of deciduous
trees, for it must be remembered that in all
this great collection of trees there is not a
single species with evergreen leaves, is more
interesting. — Garden and Forest.

Stove and Greenhouse.

THE CAPE PRIMROSES.

(STREPTOUARPI.)

These Gesnera-like plants are of quite recent
introduction if we except S. bifiorus, this
having been raised a dozen years or so back.
Presumably, S. bifiorus, the parentage of which
does not appear to be fully recorded, has had
considerable influence in these later hybrids,
which originated at Kew, and which hybrids
have been taken in hand by Messrs. Veitch and
Sons at Chelsea, the result being a still further
advancement in the diversity of colours, as well
as in the flowering of the plants themselves.
Some ten years or so back I was struck with
the utility of S. bifiorus as a small decorative
pot plant, and I took it in hand for that pur-
pose with very satisfactory results. The style
of its flowering is denoted in its name. This
has been greatly improved upon, however, in
the present-day hybrids as raised and grown
at Chelsea ; so much, in fact, as to make the
plants extremely effective for months together,
the same spike producing many flowers, whilst
the production of spikes is more continuous also.
Many growers have taken the cultivation of
these beautiful plants in hand with varied re-
sults. Where a partial failure has occurred it
is in nearly every instance to be attributed to
growing the plants in too much heat and mois-
ture. This they do not require, nor will it be
found fo satisfactory when attempted. True, it is
desirable, and, in fact, essential, to raise seed-
lings in warmth the same as one would Gloxi-
nias ; but as soon as these seedlings are once
well established then the treatment should be
on different lines. Compared with Gesneras and
Gloxinias — to which the Streptocarpus is closely
allied — less heat and moisture too are necessary,
otherwise the constitution of the plants will
be greatly impaired. Less shading, also, when
once established will be productive of better re-
sults. The best plants I have seen were being
grown in a mixed collection of flowering sub-
jects in a cool greenhouse, the other occupants
being tuberous Begonias, small Geraniums,
Petunias, &c, during the month of July in the
north of England. Another good lot of plants
were finding a congenial sphere in a Peach
house, the fruit from which had all been
gathered, this fact denoting the treatment then
accorded to such a house. In order to have the
plants in flower early — say during April and
May — a slight amount of warmth must be
given, as in the case of the tuberous Begonia ;
but in doing this endeavour to select a posi-

tion with a fair amount of ventilation and near
to the glass also, with no shade from other
plants. These beautiful plants have given good
results as window subjects, lasting in such
positions a long time in flower. One other im-
portant fact to be borne in mind is that of not
keeping the plants absolutely dry at the roots
during the winter ; this, too, will conduce to
failure, being very weakening to the growth,
for it must be borne in mind that although a
somewhat fleshy stem is produced beneath the
soil, it cannot be designated a tuber or bulb,
hence it will not withstand drought in the same
measure. There is a use to which these hybrid
Streptocarpi may be turned, but of which not
sufficient advantage has thus far been taken.
It is that of planting out well-established plants
as marginal lines to cool conservatory borders.
At Kew they are grown thus with very marked
success in the succulent house, but a cooler
house would answer quite as well provided
there be no great amount of shade. No large

in the colours to what there was only a few
years back, the range of colour being greater,
whilst in the markings there is a decided ad-
vance. In point of size also the same improve-
ment is apparent. The accompanying illustra-
tion from a photograph shows the freedom of
flowering now characterising these hybrids ; the
purity of colour in this instance is also very
clear. Streptocarpus Wendlandi is an imported
species of very remarkable growth, with an
erect flower-spike bearing a number of flowers.
Allusion is made to this species, as it is the
most recent one to which a first-class certificate
was awarded. It is totally distinct from the
preceding hybrids. Southron.

Lachenalias in baskets. — For years I have
grown Lachenalia tricolor in baskets with excel-
lent results. I consider that in no other way do
Lachenalias give such interesting results. Our
plants from the time they commence to grow are
suspended from the ratters of a three-quarter

Streptocarpus hybrids. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph of plants groicing
garden of Mr. E. H. Lushington, Brockenhurst, Cobham.

the

quantity of soil is needed for this purpose, nor
should it be of too rich a character, a more im-
portant feature being to keep it firm around the
plants.

Where no stock at present exists, seed if
sown at once will yield plants that will flower
next autumn in small pots ; these another sea-
son will be large enough for all practical pur-
poses, for nothing beyond a 6-inch or 7-inch
pot at the most is needed for this dwarf section.
The seed germinates somewhat slowly com-
pared with those of Gloxinias, but in abund-
ance. The seedlings should be pricked off into
pans as soon as they can be conveniently
handled in a light and sandy soil. Later on
this can again be done into shallow boxes, so as
to save room. Another capital plan is to plant
out in cold pits towards the end of May near
the glass with a slight bottom-heat to encourage
growth at first ; in this way quite large plants
can be had by the autumn, when potting up
should be performed rather than storing in
other ways. There is now a vast improvement

span-roofed Peach house, where the constantly
opened ventilators afford abundance of air. By
inserting the bulbs rather thickly the wires of the
baskets are not visible, as in the photograph, p.
163. Ordinary Moss I always use. The bulbs
are placed a few inches apart, the point of each
being just within the Moss. As " W." says, it
is not necessary to disturb the bulbs every year ;
liquid manure will suffice to promote a vigorous
growth. — E. M.

Stephanotis floribunda.— When on a visit
recently to the nurseries of Messrs. Fisher, Son
and Sibray, Handsworth, Sheffield, I noticed a
very fine plant of the above climber. The house
it was growing in was comparatively cool, being
used for growing Azaleas, greenhouse Rhododen-
drons, and plants of a like description. It was
planted out, and covered a roof space of 500
square feet at the least. The plant looked very
healthy, and a much greater space could have
been covered if it had been available. I was in-
formed large quantities of wood are cut out every
year in order to keep the plant sufficiently thin.
One great advantage in growing this plant cool is
that mealy bug is not so troublesome as when

March 30, 1895 J

THE GARDEN.

225

grown in strong heat. The latter pest does not
trouble the Handsworth specimen, but it requires
sponging now and then to remove the sooty deposit
that finds its way into the house. The plant
blooms well every year, being at its best in
August. Perhaps some of your readers would
kindly inform me of the space covered by the
largest known specimen Stephanotis floribunda.
— C. R.

Societies and Exhibitions.

KOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

March 26.

The improvement so manifest at the earlier
meeting in the month was on this occasion further
enhanced as regards the number and variety of
the exhibits as well as in the attendance of
Fellows. Orchids had again by far the greater
monopoly in point of numbers and rarity, Den-
drobiums more particularly being in the ascen-
dant. Most notable amongst this genus was the
prince of the D. nobile type, viz., 1). nobile
nobilius, of which a grand plant was exhibited in
profuse flower, the finest example by far that has
yet been seen of this grand form. Other Den-
drobes, chiefly hybrids, were shown in profusion,
nearly everyone of which bore evidence of affinity
to D. nobile. Some wonderful forms of Odontoglots
came from The Dell collection, being superb
varieties and most notable examples of good
culture. The chief point of attraction, perhaps,
from the point of rarity and singular structure
was to be found in Bulbophyllum burfordense, a
decided botanical acquisition. Some fine forms of
Cattleya Trianre were shown ; so also were others
of C. speciosissima. Vandas also made their
appearance from Holloway, and quite a unique
plant was to be seen in Bollea Schru'deriana,
from St. Albans, the Orchid committee signifying
their approval by a first- class certificate, the only
one awarded on this occasion.

At this meeting in March, Hyacinths, Tulips,
and Narcissi are nearly always a leading feature,
it being just the right season for Hyacinths and
early Tulips, but, singular to say, trade groups of
the ss as usually seen were entirely absent. None
of the abnormal examples of the Hyacinth, as in
former years, from bulbs several years of age, were
shown. A mixed collection of bulbs and other
spring flowers came from Syon, amongst which
particular note should be made of the straw-
coloured French Hyacinth, a valuable acquisition
for cutting, and of sprays of Acacia so well grown
in these gardens. As at the previous meeting,
the Amaryllids from Chelsea were a feature, the
coveted award being gained. At the present time
the improvement that is most notable in these
hybrids ;s the more rounded contour of the
flowers, thus giving a better shape ; a manifest
improvement in depth of colour is also gaining
ground. Camellias from YValtbara Cross, Cala-
diums from Roupell Park, and Clivias from the
well-known Holloway collection were all to be
seen in good condition. Last, but not least, the
early spring. flowering hardy plants (bulbous and
alpine) were shown in charming variety. The
fruit and vegetable committee had but little
before them, the report of which exhibits will be
found under that head.

Orchid Committee.

A first-class certificate was made to

Bollea Schrcederiaxa, of which quite a large
specimen was shown, bearing nine fine flowers of
large size and wax-like substance, the sepals and
petals being of a clouded white and of incurved
form, but not so much so as in the Anguloas. The
labellum showed a faint tint of purple, fading with
age, the flowers averaging 4 inches across. This
is a decided acquisition to its genera. From Messrs.
Sander and Co.

Awards of merit were accorded to —

Odontoglossum luteo-purpureum amplissi-
MTJM. — A very robust growing form of this species,
with an unusually stout bulb and sturdy erect spiko
bearing eleven flowers. The spots and blotches
were of a dark oak colour, with a straw-coloured
base and tips, the lip being broad, yellowish
white, with a pale oak-coloured blotch. From Mr.
Weetman, Little Heywood.

Dendrobium Cordelia (hybrid D. euosmum
leucopterum x D. aureum). — A singularly distinct
and beautiful form of dwarf growth, into the
blooms of which more of the golden colour of
D. aureum has been imparted than usually obtains
by such a cross. The sepals and petals are trans-
parent, white, flushed around the edges with faint
rosy pink, the lip being veined with velvety
crimson on a golden ground, having a margin of
creamy -white. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

Cattleya Triax.*: (Parkes' var.).— A very
tine form of robust growth and large flowers, into
the sepals and petals of which has been infused a
greater depth of the pervading tint, the lip being
broader and more elongated, with the lower por-
tion of a deep crimson-purple, the upper portion
having a rich shading of old gold colour. From
Mr. W. C. Parkes, Llanberis Tower, Tooting.

Cypripedium Olenus (hybrid C. bellatulum x
C. ciliolare). This is quite a gem amongst the
dwarf forms, in this respect taking more after

C. bellatulum, as it does also in a great measure
in its form, whilst the colour of its other parent
has greatly prevailed. The petals are broad,
vinous purple, with dark purple spots in profusion,
the dorsal sepal being of the same shade in lines,
with a trace of green, and the lip of a deep
bronzy-purple. From Mr. R. J. Measures' col-
lection.

Dendrobitjm Donnesi.e. — A very fine variety,
which is best described as D. formosum gigan-
teum in growth with the flowers of D. Jamesi-
anum, but of larger size. The petals are very
broad, these and the sepals being of the purest
transparent white, the lip having the deep orange
blotch. From Mr. Bradshaw, The Grange, South-
gate.

Dendrobium Schneideriani'm (hybrid D. Find-
layanum x D. aureum). — An Orchid which has
been previously shown, but not in such good con-
dition as on this occasion (the plant in question
was raised by Mr. Holmes). It has the expanded
lip so prominent in 1). Findlayanum, the entire
flower being larger also ; the lip is of a deep
golden tint, with crimson veins in the centre, the
sepals and petals being white, with a pale purple
flush. From Mr. E. Ashworth.Wilmslow, Cheshire.

Dendrobitjm splendidissimum illustris (hybrid

D. Leechianum x D. nobile nobilius), which is un-
doubtedly one of the finest forms of D. splendid-
issimum yet seen, a deeper infusion of the purple
ot its last-named parent being very manifest ; the
flowers are of extra size, whilst the deep vinous
purple blotch on the lip is larger also, it being
margined with pale sulphur and tipped with light
purple. The growth is very free. It is a worthy
companion to Cypher's hybrid shown at the pre-
vious meeting. From Mr. W. R. Lee, Auden-
shaw, Manchester.

Botanical certificates were awarded to the fol-
lowing Orchids : —

Bulbophyllum burfordense! (previously al-
luded to) has much the largest flower of its
genus, being yellowish green in colour, with a
number of white spots ; the plant in question
also received a cultural commendation. From
Sir Trevor Lawrence's collection.

Batemannia peruviana. — Asmall, dwarf -grow-
ing species, with a short, dense spike of flowers,
greenish yellow, with darker markings. From
Messrs. Sander and Co.

Schomburgkia undulata, labelled S. crispa ;
whereas this latter var. has a white lip, that of
the p'ant shown having the identical colour of
S. urdulata (a clear violet-purple), the sepals and
petals undulated (not curled) and of a brownish
purple shade. From Sir Trevor Lawrence.

Odontoglossum crinitum sapphiratum. — A
form with light-coloured flowers of small propor-
tions, but very light and pretty. From the same
source as the last.

Medals were awarded as follows : —

To Mr. E. Ashworth for the remarkable speci-
men of Dendrobium nobile nobilius, to which
allusion has been made ; the plant in question
bore 389 flowers, the longest growth measuring
3 feet 9 inches, showing cultural skill of the
highest excellence. Taking into consideration
the short time this superior form of D. nobile has
been in cultivation, it speaks well for the vigour
of the plant to have attained such a size ; its
mass of richly coloured flowers produced a grand
effect. Award silver Banksian medal.

To Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons for a handsome
and choice group consisting largely of their own
hybrids, amongst which there were no less than
five plants of Cymbidium eburneo-Lowianum in
rare condition and vigour. Another fine hybrid
was Cypripedium macrochilum of the Selenipa-
dium group (C. longifolium X C. cauditum Lin-
deni), the beautifully marked inner part of the
lip being very noteworthy. C. Brysa, anoihsr dis-
tinct hybrid, showed its affinity to C. Sjdani cau-
didulum, but with larger flowers, flushed with
pale rosy pink. Another noteworthy hybrid was
Odontoglossum excellens, raised between O.
triumphans and 0. Pescatorei, thus proving, what
was already surmised, that the imported 0. ex-
cellens was a hybrid of natural origin. Epiden-
drum Endresio - Wallisi was also shown, and
Dendrobium Cybele nobilius (D. nobile nobilius x
D. Findlayanum), having the sepals and petals of
the first-named parent, with the form of lip of the
latter, a dark blotch taking the place of the golden
one. D. Murrhinianum has the features of D. Ains-
worthi in a great measure, not showing much of 1).
Wardianum, one of its parents. Of other species
there was a fine form of Cymbidium Lowianum,
with extra dark crimson on the lip ; Odontoglos-
sum crispum, a handsome and beautiful form, the
broad sepals and petals being entirely suffused
with rosy purple, the golden colour of the lip
deeper than usual ; Cu-logyne crispa hololeucj,
(alba), a good plant with ten spikes of bloom ;
Cypripedium Druryi, with its golden flowers and
dark lines on the sepals and petals ; Miltonia
cuneata, an uncommon species with a creamy
white lip and the sepals and petals of a dark
bronzy tint with traces of pale gold ; Oncidium
suparbiens, a distinct species of the 0. macran-
thum type ; Odontoglossum triumphans, with two
good spikes, and 0. Wilckemum, a well-mirke 1
form ; also Dendrobium atroviolaceum (awardel
silver Flora medal).

Messrs. Sander and Co. sent a very choice
assortment, amongst which there was a profusion
of Dendrobes, chiefly hybrids of the best quality.
D. Owenianum, a tine hybrid, showing some of
the features of D. melanodiscus ; D. Ainsworthi,
a large and very superior form, with pure whita
sepals and petals ; D. nobile Cooksoni, so very
distinct, with the dark purple of the lip imparted
also to the petals ; D. Findlayanum, a fine mass
in profuse flower, the well-expanded lip showing
to good effect ; D. nobile Atnesi.-e, with clear,
transparent white sepals and petals, the lip a
trifle small in comparison, but richly marked ;
and D. nobile Sandera;, conspicuous by the ab-
sence of the dark blotch on the lip. Other good
forms of D. nobile were also shown here. Eulo-
phelia Elizabethan was also staged, as well as
Lycaste Skinneri, of which there were several
richly coloured varieties ; Pescatorea Lehmanni,
of a deeper colour than usual ; and Angrascum
Sanderianum, always attractive with its charming
spikes of white blossoms. Cattleya Trian* alba
was shown in a cut state ; also C. Schrcederiana
alba, the latter having the golden markings on
the lip of a darker shade. Lycaste Lawrenceana,
a somewhat uncommon species, was also shown
here, and last, but decidedly not least, there was
a very tine form of Cypripedium Lawrenceanum
Hyeanum, the plant having one large bloom ; the
species is clearly to be seen in the contour of the

226

THE GARDEN.

[Maecii 30, 1895.

flower, but all tlie purple has vanished, having
given place to the purest white and dark green
veins in the dorsal sepal, a lighter shade of green,
nearly self-coloured, in the petals and in the pouch
also, which is of a lighter shade still. Award
silver Flora medal.

Messrs. B. S. Williams and Son sent a good
group in which there were several capital plants
of Vanda suavis and V. tricolor, the latter in
variety, each plant bearing on the average two
spikes. A fine specimen of Cymbidium eburneum
was included with some twenty-four flowers ;
Calanthe Sanderiana, several plants in fresh con-
dition ; a good example of Cypripedium Mor-
ganire bearing several blooms; C. Ashburtonia1 ex-
pansum, a fine form of one of the earlier hybrids ;
and C. Mastersianum, a distinct variety ; also
Angra'cum Sanderianuni (syn., A. modestum), as
well as Dendrobium nobile Wallichianum, D.
Leechianum, and several very healthy plants of

C. Chamberlainianum with well marked flowers.
Award silver Banksian medal.

From Messrs. H. Low and Co. came a very pleas-
ing group, amongst which were several plants of
Odontoglossum (Miltonia) Roezli and its white
variety in the healthiest possible condition with a
great profusion of flowers of large size ; a better
lot of plants could not be desired. Other good
things comprised Cypripedium Curti-i, dark in
colour ; also C. ciliolare, Cattleya Triana-, Odon-
toglossum triumphans, richly marked ; 0. Ed-
wardi, Oncidium luridum and O. Fapilio, as well as
Dendrobium Barberianum. Award silver Bank-
sian medal.

Messrs. Lewis and Co. had a small group com-
prising Cattleya Trian.-e in good vars. , Ada auran-
tiaca, Cymbidium Lowianum and Cypripedium
cilo-villosum, a distinct hybrid, with Dendrobium
capillipes, a charming dwarf species with rich
golden-yellow flowers in two shades, and D.
primulinum, one not often seen now (silver Bank-
sian medal). Mr. James Cypher, Cheltenham,
sent a splendidly grown lot of plants of Den
drobiums, comprising D. crassinode with bulbs
wreathed in flowers, one plant bearing flowers of
deeper colour than usual ; D. nobile pendulum, a
good old species in fine condition and full of
bloom: D. nobile pulcherrimum, with long sepals
and petals, slightly tipped with pale purple, the
blotch on the lip of a deep maroon shade ; D.
Ainsworthi, a capital example: D. nolile nobilius,
a sturdy plant, the flowers very deep in colour:

D. Wardianum giganteum, with flowers 5 in.
across the broad petals, the colouring being
specially bright; D. VVardianum album, D. nobile
Statterianum, with large blooms also, which, by
reason of their size, assumed a drooping form,
and other varieties in a cut state, also a plant of
Epidendrum xanthinum, with blcoms clustered at
the apex of the spike, br'ght golden yellow in
colour. Award silver Banksian medal.

Baron Schroder sent a small, but exceedingly
choice collection of cut blooms, amongst which
were grand spikes of Odontoglossum luteo pur-
pureum (sixteen flowers), very rich in colour
and of extra size, and O. hystrix (fourteen flowers),
both being the very finest varieties. Another
splendid example was a four - branched spike
wreathed in bloom of 0. Leeanum, somewhat in
the way of O. Andersonianum, but larger and
finer, having golden sepals and petals spotted
and blotched with dull chocolate, the flowers
bearing a rich aromatic perfume. Of Cattleyas
there were C. speciosissima Schnoderiana of large
size, with sepals and petals of the purest white,
the lip also white with bright purple veins con-
tinued into the throat, the margin of the throat
bright yellow ; also C. Baroness Selmeder, a most
beautiful variety, rich in colour and of unusual
size, the sepals and petals rosy mauve, the lip
broad and deeply fringed with deep golden mark
ings. C. speciosissima in another fine variety
was included, with a rosy purple flush on the
sepals and petals, and the lip of bright colouring;
La-lia vitellina, with bright orange sepals and
petals, singularly beautiful, the lip being brighter.
Epidendrum dellense (hybrid), of which a dense
spike was shown, has small orange-scat let flowers

\ery bright. Lycaste Skinneii was represented
by a deeply coloured form (awarded silver Bank-
sian medal).

From Mr. W. C. Walker came Cymbidium sp.,
after C. eburneum, but with larger and more ex-
panded flowers. From Mr. Vanner, Camden
Wood, Chis!ehurst, came Cypripedium Roth-
schildianum (Vanner's var. ), distinct in colour, the
ground colour being lighter and the veinings
darker, thus affording a greater contrast ; one
spike bore three large blooms ; C. Vanncra; (C.
selligerum majus x C. Curtisi), a distinct-looking
hybrid, the petals of which bore very minute spots
in great profusion. Mr. Cayley, Leigham Court
Road, Streatham, sent two remarkably well-
grown plants of Phaiusgrandiflorus, each of which
was only three years old ; one bore nine spikes and
1S3 flowers and buds and the other eight spikes
and 143 flowers and buds, both being very note-
woithy examp'es. From Mr. De Barri Craw.-h: y,
Roseb'eld, Sevenoaks, came Odontoglossum Ai.dtr-
sonianum album, pure white with dark crimson
spots, a lovely variety ; also O. Ruckerianum
Juno, with a deep rosy purple flush on the sepals
and petals, and a good form of O. Coradinei. Mr.
Bradshaw had a very distinct variety of O. cris-
pum, with very pale oak-coloured blotches and
spots. From Mr. Ashworth came Dendrobium
nobile Ashwortha.-, with pure white sepals and
petals very faintly tipped with light purple ; also
D. nobile Aehworthi, after D. nobile nobilius, but
with a lighter centre, the growth tall.

Sir Trevor Lawrence sent Dendrobium Tattoni-
anum, with minute, but pretty flowers ; also Eulo-
phelia Elizabeths, with a splendid spike of twenty-
two blossoms and buds. Vanda cierulescens was
represented by a cut spike, the colour of the sepals
and petals a light mazarine-blue, the lip being
dark blue ; this is a choice species. Dendrobium
cruentum and Cymbidium ensifolium came from
the same source. From Mr. Weetman came Den-
drobium Weetmannianum, a distinct form of D.
nobile, somewhat after D. nobile Ballianum, with
the purple shade brighter and a creamy margin
to the lip. Odontoglossum hystrix came from the
same source (a fine variety).

Floral Committee.

There were not many exhibits before this com-
mittee, and, owing to the lateness of the season,
no Daffodils appeared in competition for the special
prizes.

Awards of merit were granted to the follow-
ing :—

Clivia Model. — A magnificent variety, show-
ing a marked advance upon older kinds ; the
truss very large and the flowers of fine size, with
broad rounded petals, in colour a rich orange-
yellow. Exhibited by Messrs. B. S. Williams and
Son, Upper Holloway.

Amaryllis Gorgeous. — The name of this new-
kind truly dt scribes its beauty. It has a perfect
.' ha ped flower of a dark rich self-crimson colour,
brilliint in effect. Shown by Messrs. J. Veitch
and Sons, Chelsea.

Streptocarpus i;ratus.— This, the result of a
cross between S. Dunni and the now popular
hybrid strain, is a very good kind. The leaves are
long and broad, the flowers most profuse in thick
clusters, borne on stout erect stalks and of a deep
rosy-purple colour. This also came from Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons.

Mignonette Bush Hill White.— This is cer-
tainly one of the whitest varieties of Mignonette
we have yet seen, but the flower-spikes were rather
thin and the scent decidedly weak. Shown by
Messrs. H. Low & Sons, Clapton.

Miscellaneous contributions were varied and in-
teresting. Messrs. B. S. Williams and Son ex-
hibited a group of Clivias made up of splendid
kinds. The best, besides the one above mentioned,
were Surprise, light orange-red, with large truss ;
Scarlet Gem, bright deep red ; Holloway Beauty,
soft orange-red ; Mme. Van Houtte, light orange-
red ; and Ambroise Verschaffelt. Japanese Ca-
mellias of varied shades, the flowers less stiff and
formal than those of the older types, were included
in this exhibit, to which a silver Banksian medal

«as aw aided. A fine group of Caladiums staged
by Messrs. J. Peed and Sons, of Norwood, re-
ceived a silver Flora medal. The plants were
well grown and the colours of the leaves remark-
ably bright. Some of the best were John Peed,
rich red in the centre of the leaf, shading to
green on the edge ; L'Automne, greenish
white, the leaf large and self-coloured, except
a few light purple markings; Charlemagne,
a variety having enormous leaves, those ehow-n
IS inches long, 14 inches wide, the leaf veins deep
red, this colour mixed with white running over
the leaf surface with dark green at the edge ;
Prince of Wales, deep red veins, distinct light
green in the outer parts of the leaf ; Ernest Caille
and TriomphedeComte. StrobilanthesDyerianus,
a beautiful foliage plant, wa? also well shown in
its characteristic rich colour. The group of Cine-
rarias from Messrs. J. James and Son, Farnham
Royal, represented this flower in the greaf~
possible perfection. The plants were dwarf, their
pots hidden by luxuiiant leafage, crowned with
trusses of splendid flowers, remarkable alike for
their size and rich puiity of colour, selfs decidedly
predominating. A silver Flora medal was awarded.
Camellias from Messrs. W. Paul and Son, of Wal-
tham Cross, were very fine indeed, and the mag-
nificent exhibit of this now neglected, unpopular
flower fully deserve 1 the silver-gilt Flora medal
awarded to it. Plants in flower and cut specimens
were shown, including all the best of the older
kinds and many besides, comparatively new, in
lovely and varied shades of colour.

Hardy flowers were well shown by Mr. T. S.
Ware, of Tottenham, who had a large and very
varied group. Daffodils in the best trumpet and
star-flowered kinds, Hepaticas, single and double
red, white and blue forms, Primula cashmeriana,
P. rosea, P. denticulata and its variety alba,
Saxifraga Burseriana, S luteo purpurea, Iris retic-
ulata, Trillium grandiflorum, Sanguinaria cana-
densis, Snowflakes, and Solomon's Stal were
noteworthy in this group, which received a silver
Flora medal. Messrs. Barr and Son also ex-
hibited hardy flowers in interesting variety.
Daffodils, cut specimens in many varieties, Ane-
mone fulgens, Iris reticulata, Saxifraga oppositi-
folia in several fine forms, Scillas, Hepaticas,
the double Ficaria ranunculoides, and the new
early flowering Tulipa violacea were the chief
things. A silver Banksian medal was awarded.
A similar award was given to an effective group
of flowering and fine-foliaged stove and green-
house plants, arranged by Mr. G. Wythes, gar-
dener to the Right Hun. Earl Peicy, Syon
House, Brentford. A splendid group of cut
specimens of Beaumontia grandiflora came
from Mr. Fitt, gardener to Earl Cowper, Pan-
shanger, Herts. Azalea pontica alba, with
flowers pure white except a yellow stain on
two petals ; Clerodendron splendens, an un-
common, but very beautiful tender climbing
plant, producing large, many- flowered trusses of
deep orange-red flowers, and Veltheimia viridi-
folia came from the same exhibitor. A silver Bank-
sian medal was granted. Mr. H. B. May, of
Upper Edmonton, sent a group of early -flowering
Clematises, showing how readily they can be
forced into bloom. Such varieties as Mrs. Quilter,
with flowers of medium size and freely produced,
are most attractive, and the plants shown, though
young, were wreathed in blossoms. A bronze Bank-
sian meelal was awarded. Mr. R. Backhouse,
Sutton Court, Hereford, exhibited a star Nar-
cissus named Dr. Fell, having perianth segments
of a pale cream colour and a clear rich yellow
cup of unusual breadth.

Fruit Committee.

The exhibits before this committee were few in
number, though interesting, only one collection
of fruit being stagetl and three of vegetables.
From Mr. G. Wythes, Syon House Gardens,
Brentford, came a dish of St. John's Fig, this
variety being shown by the same exhibitor at the
previous meeting, thus indicating its good cjuali-
ties as a variety for forcing in pots. The fruits
sent on this occasion weie of gcod size, the flesh

MArcn 30, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

227

white and juicy. The same exhibitor sent a very
n;c3 lot of early Asparagus grown in permanent
beds, which are forced yearly. A cultural award
was given to this exhibit. The grass was excel-
lent for the time of year, showing the value of
this method of forcing Asparagus. Mr. P. David-
son, Iwerne House Gardens, Blandford, sent a
dish of Tomatoes named Veitch's Perfection, a
seedling from Ham Green and Perfection, the
fruits being libbed and well flavoured, but not
considered by the committee superior to Ham
Green. Mr. H. Balderson, Coiner Hall, Hemel
Hempstead, sent a dish of two varieties of Onions,
Ailsa Craig and Rousham Park, Ailsa Craig being
huge bulbs, but much decayed. The exhibitor
stated that he had many similarly affected ;
whereas smaller, but well-grown Rousham Park
were quite sound with the same culture and
storage. ^^^^^^

Notes of the Week.

many roads were impassable from fallen trees, and
in Milton Park several hundred were uprooted.
Around Sherwood Forest and on the fine estates
adjoining considerable damage was done.

The late spring1. — Last year the old double
yellow Daffodil began to bloom in the Grass on
February 11. This year the first bloom opened
March 22.— J. H. W. Thomas.

Sophronitis grandiflcra. — We have received
from Mr. T. Boneall, Elmet Hall Gardens, Leeds,
a splendid flower of this Orchid, rich in colour
and very broad, measuring more than 2J inches
across.

Spiraea aatilboides floribunda. — This is one
of the best of herbaceous Spiraeas, the long feathery
panicles of pure white flowers being more graceful
than those of either S. japonica or S. multifloia
compacta. It rivals S. astilboides, but the panicles
are not so thickly set with flowers. — E. M.

Crocus Sieberi. — In The Garden for March
23 Crocus Imperati and C. biflorus are specially
noticed. I think C. Sieberi may also be men-
tioned as a very worthy and early -flowering
species for growing in the grass. It has been
strikingly charming here during the past week. —
M. A. R. , Liphook.

Erica cainea. — The brightest flower of the
present week is this pretty Heath in gardens
where it has been planted in broad sheets ariel
spreading masses. It is as hardy as our native
Heaths and a precious early flower which opens
in the first gen:al days and remains a perfect glow
of colour for many weeks. It is surprising that
we do not see more of it.

Scilla sibirica multiflore. — A very fine foim
of the Siberian Scilla now flowering came from the
Dutch growers under the above name, but it
appears identical with that shown at the Drill
Hall on Tuesday by Messrs. Barr named S.
sibirica taurica. It is a fine variety, much
earlier than the type and more robust, producing
in great abundance long strong spikes of flowers
somewhat paler in colour.

Manure for Grass field?. — In reference to
the inquiry of "Hajling " as to the best manure
for Grass fields, I woulel recommend him to try
malt dust. This is a strong nitrogenous manure
and very cheap. Its effects are marvellous on
grass crops, Potatoes, Strawberries, &c. Now is
the time to sow it anel its good effects will be
quickly visible. I have just had in a ton for my
tennis lawns and small paddock. Sowing it is
dirty work and the best way is to scatter it about
carefully with a shovel. — Edward Fison, Ipswich.

Damage to trees. — We gather from the
papers the following results of the severe gale.
At Sandringham about 2000 trees were blown
down, some of them of special historic interest,
whilst on the adjacent Castle Rising estate the
destruction was even greater. Some large old
Elms have fallen in Windsor Park, anel at
Warwick great havoc was wrought among the
trees, some of the fine Lebanon Cedars in the
Castle grounds being uprooted, and the main
roads to Warwick blocked by fallen trees. Around
Rugby School 17 great Elms were blown down in
less thah an bour. In tl.e Peterborough district

Obituary.

Mr. Thomas "Worth.— After a brief illness
Mr. Thomas Worth, for many years past in the
employment of the Liverpool Horticultural Co.,
and latterly of John Cowan and Co., of the Vine-
yard Nurseries, Garston, near Liverpool, died on
Saturday, the 23rd inst., from influenza at the age
of 31 years. Mr. Worth was a man of consider-
able promise. He was for some years in the em-
ployment of the late Mr. Enoch Harvey, and
eventually became his Orchid grower. After some
years he became Orchid grower to the Company,
and for the past two years acted as traveller for
Messrs. John Cowan and Co.

Alexander Goodman More, M.A. — We re-
gret to record the death of the above well known
naturalist, which took place on March 22 at his
residence, Leinster Road, Dublin. Mr. Mere was
a native of Malvern, but had long resided in Dub-
lin, he having formerly held the post of senior
assistant, and eventually curator of the Dublin
Natural History Museum, from which pest he re-
tired through ill-health some few years ago. His
principal work is the "CybeleHibernica," written in
co-partnership with the late Dr. David Moore and
published in 1S66 ; and they also wrote a very in-
teresting report on "The Climate, Flora, and
Crops of Ireland, "published (p. 1(55) in the report of
the International R.H.S. Exhrbition of 1800. Mr.
More was one of the best living authorities on the
British anel Irish flora, and we believe had a new
edition of the " Cybele " in hand at the time of
his dea' h. He was 64 years of age.

Mr. William Dean. — Lovers of the Pansy
will learn with regret the death of Mr. William
Dean at his residence, Sparkhill, Birmingham, on
Saturday, the 23rd inst., somewhat suudenly, at
the age of 70 years. Born at Southampton on
July 8, 1825, his father being at the time foreman
of the Hill nursery of Mr. W. Bridgewater
Page, as soon as he left school he was taken into
the office. In 1843 he went to Belfast as foreman
to Messrs. Scott Bros., nursery men. but aft era short
sojourn in lire north he came to London and en-
tered thetiurseries of Messrs E. G. Henderson and
Son, St. John's Wocd. About 18.50 he started busi-
ness at St. John's Wood, but after a few years the
business was abandoned, and in 1853 he went to
Slough under Mr. Charles Turr.er. Leaving there
in 1857, he established a nursery at Shipley, near
Bradford, York-hire, ar.d about 187C he came to
London and took charge of the London branch of
the Lawson Seed Company. When this was
abandoned he went to Birmingham as manager of
the Chad Valley nurseries of Mr. R. H. Vertegans,
frcm thenee to the Solihull nurseiies of Mr. Thomas
Hewitt, and later as manager to Messrs. A.
Blizzard and Co., Edge Lane Nursery, Solihull.
From thence he removed to Dolphin Road, Spark-
hill, Birmingham, and started as a florist, making
a specialty of Pansies and Violas, where he died.
He was the first to grow the Belgian or fancy
Pansy in this country at Shipley. In 1862 Mr.
Dean sent out new varieties of his own raising,
and continued to do so for several years. While
at Shipley he assisted in the editing of the three
last volumes of "Gossip of the Garden," and when
that work was discontinued at the end of 1863, he
edited the " Florist's Guide " during its brief exist-
ence. Mr. Dean was cne of the jurors at the In-
ternational Horticultural Exhibition in 1806, of
whom few still survive. He was assistant secre-
tary to the Midland Counties Carnation Soriety,
and in August last organised the successful Viola
conference at Birmingham.

The weather in West Herts.— There has

not bc'eh'B single cold clay for more than a fort-

night, and during the same period only two cold
night.". On the 22nd the temperature in shade
rose to 63°, which is the highest reading recorded
here as yet during the present spring. At both

1 foot and 2 feet deep the temperature of the
ground now stands at 44°. At the latter depth the
temperature has never been higher this year, but
at 1 foot deep it has fallen 4° since the 22nd.
There has been lately a good record of bright sun-
shine, the average duration for the last five days
amounting to 5£ hours a day. On the 24th the
wind proved very boisterous, many of the gusts
reaching the force of a whole gale. At 30 feet
above the ground the mean velocity for the five
hours ending 5 p.m. was 38 miles an hour, and
the highest record for any hour 44 miles, between

2 and 3 p.m. — direction west. This is the
highest velocity for any single hour that has been
recorded here during the ten years over which my
observations extend. In order to give some idea
of the violence of some of the individual gusts, I
may state that for a quarter of a minute the mean
rate amounted to 60 miles an hour. Scilla sibirica
came first into blossom in my garden on the 25th,
which is six days later than its average date of
first flowering in the previous eight years, and
forty-five days later than last year.— E. M., Berk-
hamsted.

Presentation to Mr. Wilson.— A presenta-
tion was recently made by the Earl and Countess
of Lindsey to Mr. Wilson, steward and head gar-
dener at Uthngton House, who is leaving after
twenty-six years of service. The gift was a
handsome watch and chain, which, when opened,
showed the following inscription : " Presented to
E. Wilson by the Earl and Countess of Lindsey
as a token of sincere regard. March, 1895."
Added to this was an elegant brass tripod lamp,
also a gold scarf pin from the Ladies Bertie.

Presentation to Mr. W. G. Heed.— A few
months ago some friends of Mr. W. G. Head,
judges and exhibitors at the Crystal Palace,
formed themselves into a committee to raise a
private fund with a view of making a presenta-
tion to Mr. Head in recognition of his work at the
Crystal Palace. The presentation, which took
the form of a purse of money, was made on the
evening of Friday, the 22nd, at the Restaurant,
Victoria Station. In the absence of Mr. William
Marshall through illness the chair was taken by
Mr. Richard Dean, the treasurer of the fund, who
briefly sketched Mr. Head's career, commencing
with his start at Arundel in 1853 under Mr.
Geo. McEwen ; thence to Shrubland Park, Ips-
wich, in 1856 ; from there to Drumlanrig in 1857,
under Mr. Mcintosh, where he remained four
years. He then became gardener at Castle Dykes,
Dumfries, but owing to ill-health returned to the
south of England in 1S63, and took a foreman's
place at Abernant, South Wales, and later was
foreman at Arundel under Mr. J. Wilson. In
1807 he was in the Chiswick Gardens of the Royal
Horticultural Society, and from there went to
Kew. In 1872 he went out to Calcutta and
formed a new garden and nursery for the Agri-
Horticultural Society of India, remaining there
six years. He returned home in 1878, and soon
after succeeded Mr. George Thomson in ehaige of
the gardens and grounds at the Crystal Palace.
The chairman eulogised Mr. Head s work at the
Crystal Palace and his management of the various
exhibitions, and concluded by handing Mr. Head
the purse of money, with the hearty good wishes
of all the subscribers.

Fisher, Son and Sibray, Limited.— This
company was registered on the 21st inst., with a
capital of £50,000, to take over the old-esta-
blished business of nurserymen, seedsmen, and
florists, carried on by the partners in Messrs.
Fisher, Son, and Sibray, at Handsworth Nur-
series, near Sheffield, Fitzalan Square, Sheffield,
Church Street, Rotherham, and elsewhere.

Names of plants.— S. X T.— 1, Eupatorium
Wendlandi; 2, Alontoa incisifolia; 3, Solas inella.
Krauesia.na; 4, Fraueiseea calycina; 5, Fraociscea

maerarjfba. R. Curtis— Candollea cuncata. ■

j. J> 0.— Tree Ivy (Heetera arboretcens).

228

THE GARDEN

[March 30, 1895.

BURMESE ULIES.

GRAND IMPORTATION JUST RECEIVED IN SPLENDID CONDITION,

COMPKISINU

L. Wailichiaimm superbum (gulphureum). I- nepalense, L.

Lewi (very rare), L. Bstkeri (new, white flowers), &c , &c.

As these Lilies are found growing together.no attempt has been made to keep the in separate, bir
from the collector's descriptions we have no doubt that all the above vaiietif s will be found amongst them,
and possibly others, especially from the smaller sizes.

Fitie Bulbs, 8s. doz. ; grand Bulbs (7 to 8 in.), 15s. doz. ; very large Bulbs (9 to 10 in.),

2s. 6d. each., 24s. doz.

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A. W. WARREN, Gloucester Nursery, Hampton, Middlesex.

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Monthly Roses, 3s. 6d. ; 6 pink Monthly Re ses, 2s. nd. ; 6 white
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Y. Lemoine & Son's Catalogues of Novelties

Including Begonia elegantissima alba and other bedding and
tuberous Begon-as, Richardia EUiottiana, Cra-sula albiflora
new sets of Abutilons, Fuchsias, Single and Double Zonal
Pelargoniums, Pentstemons, Phlox decussita, Gladiolus, Mont
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Now Ready, and will be si nt free to all applicants.

Gladiolus Lemoinei and Gladiolus Nanceianus
(First Prizes at. the Paris and Chicago Universal Expositions)
are not turject to oisease under the climate of England. 'I
have nevr heard that they are attacked by ihe dread disease,
or dwindle away in the mytterious manner, which is a char-
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For detcriptlons and pr'cea apply to

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The best new and old varieties now ready for planting nut
in all the classes. 31 First-class Certificates in 1894 awarded to
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named varieties, hand fertilised, 2s. to 3s. 6d. per packet.
Auiicula seed, only the best, Is. €d. to 2s. 6d. per picket.
Fancy Primrose and Polyanthus, Is. to 2s. fid. per packet.
Calceo'aria seed (Douglas's Vest strain), Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per
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STUARTIA PENTAGYNA, fine specimens,
4ft. to 5ft. high, 7s. (3d. to 10s. (3d. each; Stuartia virginica,
nice plants, 3s. Gd. to 5s. each ; Acer polymorphuni atro-
sanguineum, from seed, all raised from dark-leaved kinds,
varying in colour, but all good, stout-branched plants, 9in. to
12in., 12in. to loin., 15in. to 18in., 9s., 12s., 18s. per doz. —
T. Smith, Daisy Hill Nursery, Newry.

CHINA ROSES.— Old semi-double scarlet,
fine plants, 4s. doz.; Cramoisi, deepest crimson, fis. doz.;
Old Blush, 4s. doz.; Climbing Cramoisi, very fine, 12s. doz.;
Laurette Messimy, coppery rose, 9s. doz.; Rival de Poestum,
semi-double white, lovely, 8s. doz. ; Souvenir de Lord Brougham,
finest of all, 12s. doz.; Louis Philippe, bright and good, 4b. doz.;
and many other sorts. — T. Smith, Daisy Hill Nursery, Newry.

£i LOOK! LOOK!! ££

1 00,000 Plants must be cleared, viz., Achillea mongo-
lica, Aconit.um Napellus, A^rostemma atrosanguinea,
Caltha pJu-tris fl -pi , Campanula grandis alba,
Chelone barbata, Chrysanthemum maximum, Doroni-
cum Harpur- Crewe, Funkia Sieholdi, Helenium
pumilum, Helianthus strumosus. Hemerocallis flava,
Iris germanica, Pyrethrum in var„ Rudbeckia New-
manni, Spiriei filipendula fl.-pl., Stenactis speciosa
major, Trollius europseus, 2s. 6d. per doz • 24 for
4-.; 100 for 15s. Lists free.

LOGAN d CO., Chad Valhy, Birmingham

LARGE Peach Trees to fill houses at once ;
no delay. — R. Gilbert begs to intimate that he can
supply the cream of varieties in standards, half- standards and
dwarfs, warranted true to name and in vigorous health.
Upwards of 800 ft. of walling devoted to their culture. — For
particulars apply to R. Gilbert, High Park Gardens, Stamford.

T OVEL'S YORKSHIRE STRAW

JJ-« BERRIES.— Autumn transplanted, 2.5, Is.; 100, Ss
oOO, 12s. 6d., carnage paid. Descriptive List free. "
and Sox, Strawberry Growers, Driffield.

STRAWBERRY PLANTS a Speciality.—
If any of your readers require an abundant crop of
Strawberries next year, let them write to R. Gilbert,
Burghley, Stamford, and leave the selection in his hands for
early, mid-season, and late varieties, and success is a certainty.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS, early or outdoor
flowering indispensable for cut flowers in bloom from
■Tune until November ; finest collection in the Kingdom (via
press opinion) ; cuttings now ready ; catalogues post free.
('. Shaw, Florist, Sherwood, Nottingham.

LAXTON'S SEEDS.— The new Catalogue,
enlarged, contains a very complete list of all good novel-
ties and specialities of merit from every source, as well as a
. sound general list of standard sorts good and reliable ; prices
W. Lovel are reasonable; lists free.— Laxton Bros., Seed Growers,
Bedford.

MESSRS. BELLS LIST

New and Enlarged Edition (1072 pp.), with numerous Ilhistra

tions, demy 8vo, cloth, 9s., net.
JOHNSON'S GARDENER S DICTIONARY. A New Edition.

thoroughly Revised and considerably Enlarged. By C. H.

Wright, F.R.M S , and D. Dewar.
" We arc glad to see the publishers of this valuable work again
in the field with a new edition, thoroughly revised and consider-
ably enlarged. It is without doubt one of the most reliable and
important gardening dictionaries that has ever been published ;
in fact, as a dictionary and guide for gardeners, amateur or
professional, its equal is not to be found in horticultural litera-
ture . . . forms a marvellous digest of matters horticultural,
and a standard work for the guidance of all interested in tho
art and science of Gardening. It is beautifully printed, and
the style in which it is turned out is highly creditable to the
eminent publishers."— The Horticultural Timet,
Fcap Svo, flexible binding for the pocket, 7th Edition, Revised,
with New Appendix, 4s. 6d.

THS BOTANIST'S POCKET-BOOK. By W. R. Hayward,

containing, arranged in a tabulated form, the chief charac-
teristics of British Plants.
This volume is intended as a handy Pocket Companion for the
Botanist in the field, and will enable him to identify on the spot
the plants he may meet with in his researches.
BELL'S AGRICULTURAL SERIES. Crown Svo, each 2b. Od.
PRACTICAL FRUIT CULTURE. A Treatise on Planting,

Growing, Storage, <fec, of Hardy Fruits for Market and

Private Growers. By J. Cheal, F.R.H.S.
" One of the very best agricultural manuals we have seen." —
field.
TILLAGE AND IMPLEMENTS By Walter J. Malden.

" A most practical little volume . . . Every farmer should
reai I it, because it is just the sort of work to interest and instruct
him." — Farmer and Stockbreeder.
SOILS AND THEIR PROPERTIES. By Dr. W. Fream, B.Sc

Lond., FL.S., F.G.S , F.S.S. With a Geological Map of

Great Britain.
THE FARM AND THE DAIRY. By Prof. J. P. Sheldon.

" The best cheap English book upon dairying that we have
ever seen."— Lire itock- Journal.
MANURES AND THEIR USES. By Dr. A. B. Griffiths,

F.R.S.E., F.C.S., late Principal of the School of Science,

Lincoln.
"This little book may well take its place in an agricultural
library as supplying knowledge which otherwise might need re-
search through many scattered sources of information." — A aturr.

TH8 DISEASES OF CROPS AND THEIR RKMEDIBS. By
Dr. A. B. Griffiths.
" Beyond praise for its clear and concise description of the
plagues old-fashioned countrymen regarded as a visitation only
prayer and fasting could remove." — National Observer.
London: GEORGE BELL <fe BON8, York Street,
Oovent Garden.

FERNS

SPECIALITY.

We have an immense stock of all kinds of Ferns, Stove, Green-
house, Filmy, Hardy Exotic, and British, including many very
beautiful varieties rarely seen, but which ought to be more
generally grown. Catalogue free on application.

W & J. BIRKENHEAD, F.R.H.S.

FBRN NURSBKIB8, SALB, near MANCHESTER.

Our Hardy Grown Roses.

DWARF, TEA and H.P.

UNINJURED BY FROST.

CATALOGUES ON APPLICATION.

COCKER & SONS, Aberdeen.

BOOKS ON ROSES by Wm. Paul, F.L.S.
—"The Rose Garden," ninth edition, royal 4to, 20
coloured plates and numerous wood engravings, 17s. fid. ; the
same, imperial Svo, without coloured plates, 8s. Od. " Roses in
Pots," seventh edition, illustrated, 2s. post free. " Roses and
Rum I ulture," seventh edition, illustrated, Is. post free. " The
best works on Roses are those by Mr. William Paul." — Journal
nf Horticulture. — Wm. Paul & Son. Waltham Cross, Herts.

ROSES IN POTS.— A magnificent stock of
extra strong plants established in 8-inch pots, suitable
for present forcing or greenhouse culture. Tea-scented and
Noisette varieties (dwarf and climbing kinds), 30s. to 00s. per
dozen ; Hybrid Perpetuals, 24s. to 42s. per dozen.— Wm. Paul
& Son, Waltham Cross, Herts.

PLANTING REASON.— Immense stocks of
Hardy Evergreen and Deciduous Trees and Shrubs of all
kinds; all well transplanted and in excellent condition for
removal. Rhododendrons off loam a speciality. Priced des-
criptive catalogue free by post.— Wm. Paul &, Son, Waltham
Cross, Herts.

CHOICE CUT FLOWERS. — Chas. E.
Cooper, Wholesale Florist, S3, Russell Street, Covcnt
Garden, and 3T0, Flower Market, is open to receive consign-
ments of choice cut flowers, foliage, &c.,for sale on commission
or buy for cash. For further . particulars apply as above.
Bankers: The National Bank, Charing Cross Branch. Tele-
grams, " Lapageria, London."

THE GARDEN.

220

No. V.20. SATURDAY, Afrit 6, 1895, Vol. XLVII

"This Is an Ait
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature."— Bhaktxptart.

Orchids.

THUNIAS.

This genus comprises several beautiful species,
all of which are plants that enjoy a strong heat
and plenty of moisture to grow them to perfec-
tion. Where these accommodations are at com-
mand, Thunias should be grown, for they are
of exquisite beauty and make a bright display,
the drooping racemes of bloom ranging in
colour from white to bright purple. These
plants enjoy a very pronounced period of rest
after the flowering season, and thrive best when
repotted annually. This should be done when
the new growths begin to appear from the base
of the old pseudo-bulbs, which generally occurs
about the beginning or middle of March ; there-
fore if repotting has not yet been done, 1 would
advise it to be seen to at once. Good drainage
is very necessary and the pots require to be
about half filled with clean, broken pots, the
remainder filled with a good porous compost of
rough peat, fibrous loam and chopped Sphagnum
Moss, with a good proportion of silver sand.
Thunias are plants that may be easily propa-
gated and root very frt ely ; therefore nice speci-
mens should be made up each spring. This
may be done by placing several stems into a
pot, according to the size, and which should be
about 3 inches apart, firmly fixed by tying each
bulb to a small stick. Water must be very
sparingly applied until they become fairly esta-
blished and the new growths well above the
surface, when a liberal supply should be given
throughout the summer and not be diminished
until the foliage commences to change colour,
when it should be gradually lessened until the
plants are finally at rest. In the summer
months whilst in strong, active growth an occa-
sional application of weak liquid manure will
be found very beneficial. When in the dormant
state they should be placed in a light and dry
place and water entirely withheld, and as soon
as they are started at this season they must be
placed near the glass in the East India house,
for as much light as is available is necessary to
ensure good results.

Thunias are natives of India, where they
grow upon trees, and are widely distributed
over the Himalayan Mountains, Moulmein and
Lower Burmah, usually at an altitude of from
1500 feet to 3000 feet. They are closely allied
to Phajus, but even very distinct from that
genus in having no pseudo-bulbs, and the
blooms are produced upon drooping racemes
about the months of June and July. The
kinds below mentioned are all worthy of cul-
tivation.

T. alba, a very useful kind, has been known
for a number of years. It was introduced into
this country about sixty years ago by Messrs.
Loddiges, of Hackney. The sepals and petals are
pure white, also the lip, the latter being beau-
tifully veined with purple and yellow.

T. Bensoni m is the most richly coloured in the
family, having flowers some 3 inches to 4 inches
in diameter, and of a beautiful bright magenta-
purple colour. It is very free-flowering, and was
discovered by Col. Benson some thirty years later
than the preceding kind. It first flowered in the
Royal Gardens, Kew.

T. Marshalliana, a very pretty species, some-
what resembles T. alba. It has white sepals
and petals, and the lip is white at the front, the

other poitions pale jellow, \(iml with bright
orange. It is, however, distinct, and a native of
Moulmein. A form with a light yellow lip was
named by the late Professor Reichenbach P.
Marshalliana ionophlebia. but it is very scarce.
These all grow about 3 feet in height, the last
named being somewhat taller and more robust in
habit, and all are well furnished with light green
leaves. A grand addition to this group which
must not be forgotten is the beautiful hybrid
raised by Mr. Seden in Messrs. Veitch's nursery
and also in the gardens of the late Mr. Tall, of
Manchester, at the same time. This is named

T. Veitchiana, and was obtained by crossing
T. Marshalliana with T. Beneonia?. It produces
fine floweis with white sepals and petals, flushed
with deep rosy purple at the tips, the front lobe
of the lip being bright purplish rose with fringed
lines of orange on the disc, the side lobes white.
Wm. Hcgh Gower.

Platyclinis glumacea, or, as it is more
familiarly known in our gardens, Pendrochilum
glumaceum, is one of the most elegant little Or-
chids that produces its flowers during the early
months of the year. I have recently noticed this
doing remarkably well in several collections in the
neighbourhood of London. It always appears to
form a well-shaped plant and flowers very freely;
the long filiform pendulous raceme of white
blooms has a graceful appearance and a very
pleasing fragrance. — H. G.

Cypripedium Druryi. — This is one of the
most distinct species we have, but, unfortunately,
appears to be getting a scarce plant. The flowers
are produced singly upon erect scapes, and mea-
sure about 3 inches in diameter. These are
of clear yellow throughout, the lip having a
more golden shade than the other segments, the
black broad central band on the sepals and petals
being very characteristic. This kind, unlike the
majority of members in this family, does not \ ary
in either size or colour. It is a native of the
Travancore Mountains, India, and is at present
well represented in The Firs collection at Syden-
ham. The blooms being so thick in texture keep
in full beauty longer than those of other kinds of
Lady's Slippers. — W.

Cymbidium eburneum. — This lovely species
is one of the finest in the genus, and a few years
ago was an exceedingly rare plant. At the pre-
sent time, however, it is to be found in most col-
lections, and always attracts admiration when in
bloom. A flower of this comes from J. Pocock,
but it is small in size. No doubt it will improve
another season when the plant becomes better
established. I recently noticed a fine form
flowering in Mr. Uorman's collection at Laurie
Park, Sydenham. It is about seventeen years ago
since it was first flowered in this country, and is a
native of the Khasya Hills. — W.

Cypripedium Chamberlainianum (JO. J)'.).
— This pretty and distinct species was introduced
quite recently by Mr. Sander, of St. Albans. It
produces many flowers upon an upright stem, and
is quite different in formation to any other kind
yet in cultivation. It appears to be a continuous
bloomer, for I have seen it at different places
nearly the whole year round. The petals have a
peculiar twist, one being curled one way and the
other the reverse, a peculiar character not to be
found in any other known kind. The principal
merit of this species is its lovely bright rose-
coloured pouch, w hich will no doubt be the means
of producing more vivid colours in the lip of
future hybrids. It is certainly worthy all your
attention. — W. H.

Dendrobium nobile and its varieties. —
At this season of the year when this useful species
is in flower it is remarkable to see its extensive
variations. D. nobile and Odontoglossum crispum
are two Orchids grown in larger quantities than
any others, especially for cut blooms, for which
they are most admirably adapted. I have re-
ceived several blooms of I), nobile Cooksonianum,
but the best form I have seen this season is flower-

ing at Cambi idge Lodge, t'amberwtll. The
flowers there have the large maroon blotch on the
petals, extending a long way down and of exceed-
ingly bright colour. Another beautiful form of
this comes from James Ingle for a name. This is
a fixed sport from the typical plant, for it has
appeared in several collections and occasionally
turns up amongst importations of D. nobile. No
doubt the deepest coloured form of this species is
D. nobile nobilius, which is of rich amethyst-
purple, slightly paler at the base of the segments
and with a white zone surrounding the very deep-
coloured blotch on the lip. The individual flowers
are also larger than those of the type. There are
many plants called by this name which are nothing
but good coloured ordinary forms, the true va-
riety being still very scarce. A nice plant is at
present flowering in The Firs collection, Laurie
Park, Sydenham,' where this family of Orchids is
made a speciality. — G.

Cattleya Trianse. — Flowers of this very useful
spring- flowering Cattleya come from various cor-
respondents. They vary considerably in colour
and markings, the majority being very beautiful,
but as there are already some most distinct named
varieties, I do not think it advisable for every
plant to receive a varietal name. This would only
lead to a great deal of confusion. At the present
time we have such an enormous quantity of this
species in cultivation, that what one considers as
a unique form may generally be found in several
other collections. The flower from "J. C. W."
marked "alba" has a decided tint of rose in the
sepals and petals, and therefore cannot be called
a pure white variety. — W. H. G.

HARDY CYPRIPED1UMS.

The essential details in the culture of hardy
Cypripediums are moisture, shade, and a soil
mainly composed of peat and leaf soil. Where
it is intended to grow them in the open ground
—and nowhere do they flourish so well and
continue healthy so long— it is best that some
special preparation be made for them. In the
first place a suitable position must be chosen,
and one sheltered from the north and east
winds possessing the needful shade overhead
will do well. The next step will be to excavate
the soil 18 inches deep, or if the soil be light
and well drained 12 inches deep will be suffi-
cient. In the case of clayey soils, a few inches
of rough crocks or clinkers will be necessary to
form ."drain, which is not needed with light soils
which drain freely. The hole may now be
tilled in, using roughly chopped peat and half-
decayed leaf soil in about equal parts, with the
addition of some rough charcoal nuts aid
Sphagnum Moss if obtainable. In this mixture
the plants invariably do well provided a suffi-
cient supply of moisture is forthcoming in the
growing season. This latter may be easily
arranged by either utilising the overflow from a
fountain or by conducting water to the bed
in pipes. Surrounding the bed with a per-
forated pipe where the supply could be regu-
lated would be a simple as also an efficient way
of ensuring the requisite moisture, which in the
growing season should be at semi-saturation
point. In planting it is important that the
roots be spread out horizontally and not thrust
into a small and deep hole, for if treated thus
they will assuredly rot. A very cursory glance
at the tufts of Cypripedium spectabile will give
some idea of the mode of rooting in this species,
and this will constitute a good guide. Fre-
quently many roots perish either during transit
or by exposure prior to being packed, and are
best cut away as close to the crown as possible.
When placing the plants in position, let the
hole be as wide as the extent of the roots ; in-
deed this is the better way when plan' ing large
beds, carefully firming the soil and co ei'ing the
crowns 2 inches deep.

L'30

THE GARDEN

[Apbil 6, 1895.

C. spectabii.e is at once the best and most
vigorous species from an all-round standpoint, the
sepals and petals white, with rose-coloured much-
inflated pouch. In this species the colour varies
somewhat, always, however, more or less rose
tinted.

C. pubkscens has sepals and petals of yellowish
brown with yellow lip. Very similar in respect of
colour is the smaller -flowered and fragrant

C. farvifi.orum, of equal hardiness and simple
requirements.

C. Calceolus has sepals of a brownish hue and
pale yellow labellum. This species is sometimes
found growing in loamy soil, though it does not
appear essential, as it grows quite well in the
above-mentioned material and with less abundant
supplies of moisture.

These are the more vigorous growers of this
group, attaining a height of from 12 inches to
20 inches, and being usually procurable in good-
sized plants, produce a good effect when grouped
together in the open ground. The remaining
species, by reason of their rarity and small size,
are perhaps safer grown in pansin acold frame till
well established. These include the dwarf grow-
ing acaule, the lovely guttatum and macranthum,
occidentale, and the rare C. arietinum, seldom
seen in cultivation. C. californicum is a newer
kind, growing when established 2 feet high and
producing axillary blossoms, therefore one of
the most distinct. E. J.

NOTES FROM THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

In your impression of the 23rd ult. Mr. Miles
writes, " Following Mr. Smith's advice, I will only
say that here, with a zero frost, Carpenteria cali-
fornica seems quite safe.'' I am sorry to say that
Mr. Smith's advice on this head quite escaped me,
and I have not seen it at all, so that I should feel
much obliged to Mr. Miles if he would tell us more
clearly what the measures were which he took and
which served him so well. This is a point on
which I feel a great deal of interest just now, and
I should welcome enlightenment from any quarter
from which it may come. A very fine specimen
indeed of Carpenteria californica which has been
in my garden for years has been terribly mauled
by the frost. 1 think it is alive and will break out
again in due time, but that is all I can say for it,
and I shall be glad to have my anxiety allayed on
this head. It was wrapped round and round with
folds of an old herring net which I bought for the
purpose, and which has answered well enough till
this terrible season, but I cannot say that I am
satisfied with it under existing circumstances.
Nevertheless, in most years the idea has proved to
be a good one. I am indebted for it to Miss
Jekyll. The net, of course, has allowed free ven-
tilation and has generally given sufficient covering.
The late Sir Wm. Hutt was excessively fond of
flowering shrubs, and he had a fine collection of
them at Appley Towers. He was, for the most
part, against any covering at all, and denied its
usefulness. I have often had a conversation with
him about this matter. Now what is the state of
the case with those very shrubs ? I have not had
time to go over and look at them, but his nephew
expects great losses will soon be apparent, and
speaks very dolefully about it. Altogether, I
think it is a rather difficult thing to know how to
act for the best. If we could forecast the future
at the beginning of the winter, the whole matter
would be easy enough. The question now really
is, what is the best average solution of a very
great difficulty ? I should have done a great deal
more for my own shrubs than I esteemed to be
necessary for them if I could have anticipated that
we were going to have 23u of frost in the Isle of
Wight. Such a thing was never dreamt of before
by the oldest inhabitant. But while wrack and
ruin are the burden of our song, it is always
curious to notice some strange exceptions to it. I
sent a blossom of Narcissus monophyllus to Mr.
Barr last week which was taken from the open

ground, and which was, perhaps, the very last
bulb in my garden which I could have supposed
would perform in that way. Poinciana Gillesi,
which is treated to a pot and kept in the tem-
perate house at Kew, did not seem tomindthecold
in the slightest degree, and is now in a very good
condition. It had no covering at all and is com-
pletely uninjured. These things are strange, and
we may have stranger still.

Henry Ewbank.

P.S. — I should, perhaps, say that Narcissus
monophyllus had a bit of glass over its head
affixed to one of Mr. Wood's holders, but even
then its survival and blossoming in that way are
curious.

LIFTING LARGE TREES AND SHRUBS.

The assistant secretary read the notes on "Lift-
ing Large Trees and Shrubs" sent by Mr. Grasp,
who was to have lectured on March 26. Mr. Grasp
stated that many trees were too much crowded
at planting, this often being done for shelter.
The remedy usually adopted was to cut away
growth, but much could be done by lifting to
other sites and thus give space. New pleasure
grounds and parks were often bare of trees, and
to improve this, lifting large trees gave the owner
a valuable effect at once, and he stated that large
trees, no matter how old or large, could in
the hands of experienced men be transplanted
without injury and removed a long distance,
thus avoiding cutting away. On many estates
great improvements could be made by removal of
large trees and the landscape improved. He
ventured to state that the work of lifting was not
such a costly matter as many supposed, and there
was no question as to the work being a success.
Conifers were specially suitable for lifting ; also
large Cedars ; these could be lifted when from 20
feet to 50 feet in height. He mentioned the only
species he had failures with was Abies Pinsapo.
There was no difficulty in lifting trees twenty to
one hundred years old, and he advised the work
to be done in early autumn, September being the
best season. There is greater chance, too, of
new roots being formed at the time named, as the
sap had practically done its work. The size of
ball, even for large trees, need not be great, but
the soil must be firm. If the ball be about 8 feet
in diameter that is sufficient, and if at all loose
the soil must be securely bound up with matting
or a wooden frame to prevent injury to the roots.
Dry soil would require much moisture, and before
getting under the roots a trench 5 feet wide and
4 feet deep should be made. Mr. Crasp then re-
ferred at length to the system he adopted, the
mechanical appliances necessary, the need of
ample water at the roots, and spraying the tops
of trees after removal.

The chairman (Mr. Cheal) gave some interest-
ing remarks on the subject, naming various in-
stances of old trees being lifted successfully.

AMARYLLIDS AT CHELSEA.
Each year at this season the house in Messrs.
Veitch's Chelsea Nursery given up to the Amaryl-
lis is a feast of colour, the many hundreds of
spikes creating a display of one flower in its many
forms that could not be seen in any other country.
The exhibition, for such it may be appropriately
described, shows not the slightest falling oft' from
the splendid displays of previous years, and there
is this important feature, too, that this year's
plants are all seedlings, none, or at least very few
old varieties being represented. The gradual
weeding out of everything that does not attain a
certain standard of perfection has resulted in
every flower now to be seen in this nursery being
almost faultless in form and colour. Mr. Heal
has worked steadily and successfully towards
eliminating the green in the flower and its starry
form, and in the near future green will not be a
colour to disfigure the Amaryllis, for such it does,
as it is objectionable in association with many of

the shades of crimson and allied colours. Several
of the finest novelties are selfs, one splendidly de-
fined colour, and it is these rich self colours that
are such a picture at Chelsea.

But the hybridist has gained many points.
One gets now a strength in the plant unknown in
the earlier days of the Amaryllis, bulbs bearing
two sturdy spikes crowned with bold flowers de-
lightful either for colour or symmetry, and there
are many more light-toned varieties. We have
often expressed the opinion that a pure white
Amaryllis is in the near future, and certainly the
varieties at Chelsea now in bloom point strongly
to the accomplishment of this ideal, and such a
flower will be of extreme beauty, welcome in
many forms of decoration with suitable foliage
plants for contrast. The display at Chelsea is
an object lesson in showing what the hybridist
may accomplish in moulding, so to say, a flowt r
into a certain form and adding to the variety of
colouring. An Amaryllis of not many years ago
would look poor indeed against the splendid va-
rieties that now grace the plant house, sturdy
spikes bearing blooms of great breadth and charm-
ing colouring. The segments of some of the
flowers we measured were nearly 5 inches across,
and yet one could not accuse the raiser of getting
coarseness into the blooms. The Amaryllis named
Dr. Masters is an example of beautiful proportion
in the flower, but this kind does not now stand
alone in this respect, as an inspection of this
year's exhibition will show. Many others are
finer than this, the flowers conspicuous for sym-
metry and colour.

It seems that perfection has been already
reached in this flower, but that is what we wroto
some time ago, and yet as each April comes round
one discovers an advance either in form or colour.
This year the light coloured varieties make a de-
cided break amongst the forest of spikes of crim-
son and orange-scarlet kinds, and in every green-
house or conservatory worthy of the name a good
group of Amaryllids should be placed, the spikes
being relieved with foliage plants of not too
tall stature.

It seems unnecessary when the list of varieties
grows to such a length each year to mention va-
rieties, but the following must be recorded.
Amongst the light-coloured kinds all of the fol-
lowing show a distinct advance : Cupid is very
pretty, white, with a veining of scarlet, Norma
being distinguished by crimson lines ; whilst in a
kind named Brandon we get an unusually fine
flower, with very broad, robust segments, only the
upper portion with the veining of crimson. Idea
is almost colourless and a dainty flower which we
can scarcely have too much of, and the same may
be said of Ham, another exquisite flower for purity.
Armoire is very large, but not coarse, with a
feathering of scarlet on the segments ; Pana-
cea, Hilda, Cardonald (very fine flower), Crinia,
Maer (very charming), Marmoria and Otley being
all splendid acquisitions to this section.

Amongst the dark coloured Amaryllids many
kinds of great beauty could be found, none moie
so, however, than one named Macar, the flower of
superb form, not large, and of a rich quite self
crimson, with a satiny lustre on the segments as
if shot with a pellucid velvety suffusion of a more
intense tone than the actual bod}' colour. Patna
is a bold flower, crimson-scarlet ; Anatino, bright
scarlet ; and Gorgeous, of very large size, but with-
out coarseness, the flower deep self crimson. We
may also mention Hadsor, crimson ; Guthrie, bold
and brilliant orange-scarlet ; Carridon, very large,
the colour bright orange-scarlet ; Finedon, one of
the boldest flowers in the collection and crimson-
red in colour ; Asta, pure crimson-scarlet, a beau-
tiful flower for symmetry and tone ; Roydon, a
glorious Amaryllis with broad segments, brilliant
orange-scarlet in colour, and Lucan, of a similar
shade. The flowers of the dark-coloured section
present a bewildering variety of shade, so that it
is difficult to describe them, but it is this colour
variety that we cannot have too much of, especially
when there is happily no tendency to get muddy
purples, magentas, and other objectionable flowers,
tuch as disfigure not a few other claeses of plants

Apbil 6, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

231

Stove and Greenhouse

MARGUERITE CARNATIONS.
These Carnations have now been in cultivation
some few years, but they are not at the present
time gaining in favour. For this there must be
some cause, not necessarily the same in each
particular instance, but none the less so. Being
raised as a rule from seed rather than from cut-
tings, there is a predisposition to make a luxu-
riant growth, not altogether robust perhaps, but
of rapid development and consequently sappy.
This should be guarded against by not using too
rich a compost from the very commencement.
Under pot culture it will be better to employ
chiefly loam and sand with a little leaf-soil if the
former be at all of a heavy character. It will
be better also to err on the side of small pots
rather than the opposite extreme. Some of the
best flowers I have seen were from plants in

a strong one in this strain. This no doubt arises as an admirable setting to them. It is of very
from their parentage, this Carnation in all pro- I fasy culture, and all that is needed for forcing
bability being related toDianthuschinensis or the is to lift the clumps from the open ground and
Indian Pink. Where it is not convenient or prac- put them into pots in a cold frame, from whence
ticable to grow a stock of the other Carnations ' S 8Pring advances they may be taken into

e greenhouse, where a little group of good

in pots, there the Marguerite Carnation will be
the most useful. As in the case of all seedlings,
there will be a percentage of singles which should
at once be destroyed. Plaotsman.

flowering examples is very bright and cheerful
as well as uncommon. — H. P.

CARNATION NOTES.

I am much obliged to Mr. Douglas (p. 103) for
answering my inquiry respecting the variety Duke

Spiraea compacta multiflora.— Despite the

fact that the herbaceous plant so generally grown

for forcing under the name of Spiram japonica is of York." The great drawback°with so many of

not a Spira-a at all, yet it is so universally known the Tree Carnations is their unwillingness to

as such that the general public will not recognise flower freely in the dead of winter. December,

any name other than that it has so long borne. January, and February are the three months in

That at the heading of this note is a variety of the which these flowers are most useful to me. For

common kind, in wdiich the inflorescence is borne
in a denser and more compact manner than in the
older form, but whether superior to it is doubtful.
I prefer the lighter and more tapering spikes of
the common kind, while others look upon the

of

Marguerite Carnations in a jar.

Engraved for
Moreton

The Garden from a photograph sent
House, Buckingham.

Miss Burrowes,

quite small pots. Firm potting will also tend
to better results, whilst no artificial feeding
should be allowed until the plants are well ad-
vanced in th e flowering stage. Another mode
of culture is that of planting the seedlings out,
but the sam e lines as regards soil and its firm-
ness must be observed. If planted out the
growth will be greater, whilst a more bushy
habit will result. So far there is an advantage,
but sufficient time must be allowed for fresh
root action when lifted before cold weather
again sets in, otherwise the results will not be
good. In any case plenty of light is abso-
lutely necessary to aid in maturing the growth.
The seed should have been sown early in March,
but it is not yet too late to do so. Do not,
however, endeavour to make up for lost time by
raising and growing the young plants in too
much warmth. By the time the seedlings are
pricked off a cold pit or house will afford suffi-
cient protection for them. Although there is
in some instances a perceptible fragrance, this
much appreciated merit of the Carnation is not

newer form as the best. For many years there
has been a golden veined variety of S. japonica in
which the inflorescence is an exact counterpart of
the newer compacta multiflora, so that this would
Eeem to have originated from the variegated form.
This last, I see, received a first-class certificate
from the R.H.S. as long ago as 1869. The variety
compacta multiflora has certainly been largely
grown within the last two or three years. — H. P.

Begonia manicata. — "H. P." (p. 205) does
well to call attention to this winter and spring
flowering Begonia. Not only does it succeed under
the conditions mentioned, but it growB freely and
blossoms abundantly in an ordinary greenhouee.
For this reason it is more valuable to many than
it would be if always requiring a warm tempera-
ture.—E. M.

The spring Bitter Vetch for forcing. — This,
which was illustrated on page 186, though
thoroughly hardy, is very useful for flowering
under glass for the embellishment of the green-
house during the spring months, for the peculiarly
coloured flowers are borne in great \ refusion, and
the bright green freshly expanded leaves serve

this reason I have discarded several good vane-
ties which do not open their flowers until March,
house room being somewhat limited. Good
winter-blooming yellow Carnations seem scarcest
any. Pride of Penshurst is often quoted as
belonging to this section, but with me
it never did much till spring, and did
not seem to care for any but the coolest
treatment. I used to grow Andalusia,
a very pale yellow fringed variety, but
have now discarded it, as it is a poor
grower and a shy flowerer — at least,
that is my experience of it. Mr. Douglas
mentions Mile. Carle as being one of the
freest whites. This I have grown for
some years, but as quantity for cutting
is my chief need I shall grow less
of it in future, the new variety La
Neige far exceeding it both in freeness
of growth and free flowering. For
every bloom of Mile. Carle I get three or
four of La Neige, each plant being simply
laden with blooms and buds, which do
not burst and are beautifully scented.
I feel certain that when La Neige be-
comes more widely known it will be
largely grown both for private and sale
purposes. In regard to Miss Joliffe Im-
proved, I am of the same opinion as Mr.
Douglas, viz., that there is no differ
ence between it and the original variety.
I do not now label my plants of Miss
Joliffe, and cannot distinguish the one
from the other. To grow Tree Carna-
tions well they ought not to be mixed
with other subjects, but have a house or
part of one to themselves. Many
batches of what would otherwise be
useful plants are ruined by too much
heat in winter. I never care for a
higher figure at night in the Carnation
house than 45° in mild weather, and
when by reason of frost more pipe-heat
is needed, 40a will keep the plants safe.
Slight fortnightly fumigations to pre-
vent attacks from green-fly are best, as if once
this pest gets into the points of the young shoots
it is often most difficult to eradicate.

J. Crawford.

FLOWER GARDEN PESTS.

Perhaps the smallest in size of our garden pests,
but by no means the least in respect of the
damage it does to plants, is the red spider. Tts
name is not very appropriate, as it is not a spider,
but a mite. As, however, it spins a kind of
loosely-made web on the undersides of the leaves,
it is not to be surprised that it has received the
popular name of red spider, particularly as its
scientific one — Tetranychus telarius— does not
convey much meaning to the ordinary gardener.
This little creature is a most tiresome and
destructive pest wherever it makes its presence
felt. It is very indiscriminate in its choice of
the plants it feeds upon and attacks those grown
under glass as well as those grown in the
open air. When this pest is present in large

232

THE GARDEN.

[ArniL G, 1895.

numbers the leaves on which it feeds soon turn
a sickly yellow colour and look as if they had
been scorched, for tho sap of the leaves is drawn
off by myriads of these little mites, which con-
gregate on the undersides of the leaves, where
they spin a very delicate web, in which they
live and multiply very rapidly. This web and
the excrement of the red spider soon choke up
the pores of the leaves. The latter deprived
of their proper amount of sap and unable
to obtain the carbon from the atmosphere
which they need are soon in a sorry plight.
Melons, Cucumbers, Vines, Hops, Kidney
Beans, Roses, Strawberry plants, Orchids, Cacti,
Ferns, Laurustinus, Lime and fruit trees are
the special favourites of these pests. Red spider
has a great dislike to moisture, and it is in dry
seasons that plants suffer most from it. If,
however, plants are not allowed to get too
dry at the roots they will not suffer nearly so
much as if they are. These little creatures
breed with great rapidity, and it is well
to take any plants which are attacked by
them in hand at once. The red spider
lays its eggs among the threads of its web ;
they are round, white, and, of course,
very minute, when we remember that the full
grown parent is hardly more than the sixtieth of
an inch in length. They are hatched in about
a week, and the young at once begin to feed. It
may be a matter of surprise how such minute
creatures can pierce the comparatively tough
skins of leaves, but it must be remembered
that they usually feed on the undersides of the
leaves, which have more delicate skins than the
upper ones, and that their mouths are fur-
nished with a pair of mandibles, between which is
a pointed sucker or beak. As I have already
mentioned, their greatest enemy is dampness,
either in the atmosphere or in the leaves.
Situated as they are on the under sides of the
leaves, which, owing to their drawing off their
juices, curl more or less, they are not much
affected by rain, and for this reason when wish-
ing to destroy them by means of syringing,
care should be taken to direct the insecticide
against the under sides of the leaves. A great
deal may be done in keeping the attacks of this
pest in check by syringing with plain cold
water, but if the attack be a bad one, one of
the following mixtures should be used. Sul-
phur is one of the most efficient agents for
killing it, but in its ordinary form it will
not mix well with water, but should be treated
according to the following manner : Boil to-
gether in 4 gallons of water 1 lb. of flowers of
sulphur and 2 lbs. of fresh lime, add 1J lbs. of
soft soap, and before using, 3 gallons more of
water, or mix 4 ozs. of sulphate of lime with
2 ozs. of soft soap, and when well mixed add 1
gallon of hot water. Tobacco water and soft
soap is also a good insecticide for this pest.
The red spider usually passes the winter under
some shelter, often choosing stones, rubbish,
&c. , near the plants it infests, so that all such
things should be carefully removed. It can-
not be insisted on too often or too strongly that
leaving rubbish, stones or anything about in
gardens under or in which insects can shelter
themselves is the most foolish thing to do, as
under such circumstances it is impossible to
keep a garden free from many kinds of pest?.
Gooseberry bushes which are attacked are
often much benefited, particularly in warm,
dry seasons, by a good mulching, but this
mulching must not be allowed to remain under
the bushes during the winter, as it may form
a harbour for the red spider.

Roses may probably, with little fear of contra-
diction, be considered the favourite flower in
gardens, and as such is perhaps cultivated mor j

than any other flower. The Rose is, however,
unfortunately attacked by a great number of
insects. In my last article I dealt with the
aphides, which are their most hurtful enemies.
The various kinds of Rose maggots also do an
immense amount of mischief at times. These
maggots destroy the foliage, which they not
only utilise for food, but by curling the leaves
up or by fastening two or three together, form
a secure dwelling place in which they are safe
from the attacks of many enemies. These cater-
pillars are remarkably active, as everyone knows
who has attempted to catch them. Snugly
ensconced in the shelter which they have pre-
pared, when you open the leaf which contains
them they wriggle out and drop before you have
fairly caught sight of them. Some choose the
Rose buds, which they destroy and entirely pre-
vent from coming to perfection by eating holes
into them. These insects are the caterpillars of
several kinds of small moths which belong to the
family Tortricidie. The moths are small,
brownish or greyish insects, measuring from
half an inch to 1 inch across the wings when
fully extended. There are quite seven or eight
species which feed on the leaves and shoots of
Roses. There is not much to be done in the
way of applying insecticides for getting rid of
these insects, as from the way in which they
shelter themselves it is very difficult to make
any insecticide reach them ; and from what I
have just said, it is by no means easy to catch
them alive. Pinching the rolled leaves or
those that are spun together is the easiest way
of disposing of these caterpillars if you can
make sure that the caterpillar does not drop
out during the operation, but perhaps the
most certain plan is to hold a basket under the
leaves or buds, so that when they are cut off
they will fall into the basket, and the cater-
pillar will be caught if it tries to escape. The
basket must be one out of which they cannot
drop. The leaves and shoots cut off should be
burnt or laid on a hard path and a roller passed
over them. When the bushes are pruned in the
spring the shoots which are cut off should be
burnt, as there are often eggs laid upon them.

Besides the caterpillars of these moths there
are some much larger ones which feed on the
leaves of Roses, gnawing great notches at first
in the edges of the leaves and eventually reduc-
ing them to mere skeletons. They do not
attempt in any way to conceal themselves, but
owing to their colour they are not easily recog-
nised until you happen to notice one, when the
others (for there are generally a considerable
number on the same bush) will at once be seen.
These caterpillars are the grubs of the Rose
saw-fly (Hylotoma rosarum). When full grown
they are about three-quarters of an inch in
length. Their heads are yellow, their bodies
are yellowish on the back, greenish at the sides
and white below ; both backs and sides are
sprinkled with small shining black tubercles,
which bear a few fine hairs. Soon after they
are full grown they descend to the ground, and,
burying themselves, each becomes a chrysalis
within a cocoon. The insects of the first brood
remain in this condition nearly two months.
From those of the second brood the perfect
insect does not emerge until the following
spring. The most effective way of getting rid
of this insect is to pick them off the bushes
by hand, but syringing with the extract from
3 or 4 lbs. of quassia chips added to 2 lbs. of
soft soap and mixed with 50 gallons of water,
as recommended for green-fly, or the recipe of
tobacco water and soft soap would no doubt be
useful.

Another species (Eriocampa rosse), which is
not a very troublesome pest, feeds on the upper

surface of the leaves much in the same way
that the Pear slugworm does. And yet another
species (Blenocampa pusilla) rolls up the
leaves until each leaflet forms a little tube in
which it lives. This species is by no means
an abundant one, and I have never known an
instance in which it was the cause of any real
injury to the plants. The grubs are quite small
and several live in the same leaf. Gathering
the infested leaves and burning them would be
the simplest and most effective remedy.

G. S. S.

FROST IN THE FLORIDA ORANGE
GROVES.
While we are deploring the effect of the long
frost, a story of devastation comes from semi-
tropical Florida before which our disasters,
grievous as they are to us, sink into comparative
insignificance, for it is a story of ruin, widespread
and absolute. I had heard a report that the
Orange groves had been badly damaged by frost,
but had received no particulars until a friend's
letter reached me the other morning. He has
now been in Florida for nearly twenty years, and
his groves have occasionally suffered during the
" cold snaps," but the possibility of such a visita-
tion as that of the past winter had never been
contemplated even by the most pessimistic.

He wrote that everything had promised an
exceptionally favourable season, that when the
frost came things were looking better than he
had ever known them. The Orange groves had
extended year by year. Each year the quantity
of vegetables grown for the New York market
had been well-nigh doubled, and with each re-
curring winter a larger concourse of visitors
flocked to the southern peninsula in search of sun
and the warm sea breezes of the Gulf of Mexico.
Then, in the early morning cf December 29, after
a noonday temperature in the shade of 77° on the
preceding day, the thermometer fell to 14°, a
drop of over 60°. Needless to say that thousands
of acres of earl}7 vegetables were killed, as were
the young plantations of Oranges, which were
estimated to cover in the State of Florida an area
of nearly 100,000 acres, while the bearing groves,
on which a heavy crop of Oranges was approach-
ing perfection, were denuded both of fruit and
leaves. Florida's planters, being for the most
part natives of our islands, did not fold their
hands, but set to work in earnest to repair such
damage as was reparable. The young trees were
killed ; time would show whether the old trees
would recover or perish. In neither of these cases
could anything be done, but there was still time
to retrieve the loss of the vegetables, and these
were therefore planted in larger quantities than
before. During five weeks of rains and genial
warmth these crops flourished amazingly and gave
promise of a bountiful return, when once more,
after a hot day, the wind in the night flew round
into the north-west and the thermometer again fell
to 14°.

Oil the subject of this second frost I quote from
a letter which I have seen that bears out in almost
every detail the experiences of my friend. " Con-
trary to expectations, the bearing groves threw out
a splendid new growth, and in a month's time had
put out their flowering spurs, showing in the
majority of cases an immense bloom. On Thurs-
day, February 7, at noon the thermometer stood
at 70° ; on Friday morning at 6 o'clock it stood at
14°. The trees were just coming round from a
knock-down blow, and, without the protection of
their leaves, suffered proportionately more. Grove
land worth 1000 dollars an acre last week is not
worth 1 dollar an acre to-day." Both the writer
of this letter and my correspondent agree in say-
ing that the effects of these disastrous frosts will
mean depopulation of the State and ruin to many
of the present dwellers in it. Planters who have
resided in the State for a number of years and who
have done well will be able to tide over the lean
time coming, and, if they wish, to extend their
holdings at a merely nominal cost ; but for such

Afbil 6, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

233

as have but lately started in the business of fruit The Drumhead Lettuce is a large type and
and vegetable growing, and who have little or no j certainly one of the best summer Lettuces
capital to fall back upon, the prospect is black j grown. It is known under many other names,
indeed. S. W. F. | suc^ as the Malta Lettuce. the Neapolitan

form of it, and there is the Standwell

is a lorm of it, and there is
and New York, doubtless selections of the
Drumhead, and all good for summer use, being
of sweet, crisp flavour and well adapted for
soils in which others do not succeed. The
Drumhead is a large grower, with the centre
leaves well formed over the heart of the plants.

Kitchen Garden.

SUMMER LETTUCES.

To get a good salad in the summer months it is

necessary to crow those varieties which stand When cut up for salad it is beautifully blanched
hot weather, 'and for that purpose Cabbage Let- ' and of a sweet taste, which many of the loose
tuces are best. They are also preferred by many green Cabbage varieties lack. It is much grown
for eatin" the leaves being more tender and ' in hot climates, hence its name, the Malta and
readily blanched. The Cos varieties are much Neapolitan. The Standwell referred to is closely
crown by market orowers for sale during the ' allied to the Drumhead and has the same merits,
summer months, and those who supply the being a long time before running to seed. There
markets may question my assertion as to j are two varieties, green and brown. I prefer
Cabbage varieties bein<* best for summer use. the latter, it being more like the Drumhead
My note however, refers more to home culture, in flavour. Other good kinds are Favourite
Salad during the hottest part of the year is most and New York, the first somewhat like Drum-
appreciated, and to get a good salad the best j head in appearance, size and quality, the out-
blanched Lettuces are required. Those who side leaves being more curled. New York is a
study quality in salads prefer kinds which give newer introduction, remarkable for its size,
a large quantity of blanched leaves, crisp aud excellent quality, and the length of time il
sweet. A great deal de-
pends upon the selection
of varieties for summer
use, and I find it first to
grow two or three kinds.
Those that will do best in
hot dry seasons are most
suitable for summer crops,
but for spring I have a
wider selection. Frequent,
sowings are necessary on
different aspects, and
above all in rich or well-
manured soil to prevent
plants failing or a scarcity
at any time.

Lettuce during the sum-
mer often fails, drought
and heat being the prin-
cipal causes. In a moist,
rich soil there are fewer
failures, and with summer
crops it should be borne
in mind they are sooner
over. Frequent sowings
should be made in small
quantities, selecting vari-
ous positions of the garden
according to the season.
by thick sowin:

Dni mhead Lettuce. From a photograph sent by Mr. Jas. Sharp,

Finehden Culture, Tentcrden.

Many failures occur
others by transplanting, both
to be avoided by sowing often and giving the
plants room to develop. To get a regular sup-
ply of good Lettuce I advise sowings to be
made fortnightly up to the middle of July, and
if sown in good well-enriched land there will be
abundant supplies at all times and of good
quality. For early summer cropping 1 re-
serve a richly manured border under a wall
facing east, and for July supplies a north
border. For later crops at the end of July
and through August it is a good plan to
sow a single row between the Celery trenches.
The plants delight in the well- worked soil and
are of splendid quality for late summer use, as
at that season there is less fear of collapse. I
have seen north plantations fail, but much de-
pends upon culture. If the soil is well manured
and dug, with due attention to thinning and
moisture, there is no fear of failure ; but it is
essential to have plenty of good solid manure
not more than 0 inches under the surface to
provide a rich root run.

As regards summer varieties, some kinds are
less suitable than others, but in dry, sandy soils
few varieties equal the one here illustrated.

stands without running to seed. It is solid,
crisp, and of splendid flavour ; indeed, if I were
restricted to two summer varieties I should
give New York and Drumhead the preference.

G. Wythes.

French Bean Newington Wonder. — Al-
though this Bean is seldom metwith.it is one of the
best for early work in pots or boxes. Indeed,
there is, I think, very little to choose as regards
cropping, earliness and quality between Newing-
ton Wonder and the well-known Osborn's Forcing.
It is naturally dwarf, and does not run up spindly
in dull dark weather like some sorts that are
commonly forced early in the season. When first
sent out it was grown extensively by the London
market growers, a sure proof of its merits. Accord-
ing to my experience the best Beans for forcing
are Newington Wonder, Osborn's, Syon House and
Ne Plus Ultra. The last is perhaps more suitable
for sowing from January onwards than earlier.
Syon House is now ignored by many, but I have
always found it serviceable. — J. C.

Early Cauliflowers. — I quite agree with
Mr. Wythes that there is a decided gain in the
time of cutting early Cauliflowers by sowing in the
autumn. We hear a great deal about losses from
the opponents of the system through the severe

winter and other causes, but this is entirely
imaginary and not borne out by facts. I have
got this season as good plants of Early Dwarf
Erfurt and Walcheren for early planting as ever I
had. The mistake is generally made in sowing too
early, the first week in September being quite early
enough. At no time must the plants be coddled.
On the approach of the past severe weather the
sides of the frame were banked up with litter and
effectually protected on the top with litter and
mats. Our plants never had daylight for a month.
By uncovering gradually when the weather breaks
the plants do not take the least harm. For
summer use I rely on The Pearl and Walcheren.
These are far less likely to button than Early
London, which I note lately a correspondent re-
commended for summer use. — A. YOUNG.

A profitable Kale. — Of all green crops no-
thing seems to have stood the intense frost of the
early part of the year so well as Asparagus Kale.
A great proportion of the Scotch Kale has
succumbed, but the Asparagus Kale to my sur-
prise is safe almost to a plant. Offsets are now
springing freely from the stems in all directions,
and will furnish many tender dishes in a short
time. If seed is sown in May, the plants put out
on good firm land, and allowed plenty of room,
the}7 will grow strong and stocky, proving very
useful late in the spring, when most of the other
varieties are past. Indeed, if a good breadth is
planted, plenty of tender delicious greens may be
had till the earliest Cabbages come in. I do not
think Asparagus Kale is known or grown so much
as it deserves. — J. CRAWFORn, Coddington Hall,
X' wurk.

Dwarf winter greens. — Severe as has been
the winter, it is pleasing to find that the dwarf
winter greens have come through the trying
ordeal the best. Asparagus Kale, Dwarf (Ireen
Curled Kale, and the dwarf plants of Cottager's
Kale will do good service. Brussels Sprouts have
been hard hit. On walking over our quarters
after the snow had gone, I noticed that a few
plants which had been bent over under the weight
of snow, and so become quite covered, were quite
fresh. Wood pigeons have done as much damage as
the frost to our winter greens. Lately one or two
correspondents have called attention to that
excellent Cabbage Winnigstadt. I grow it as
a winter Cabbage, sowing early in May. — A.

Youhg.
Aids to early vegetable culture. — I can

quite bear out the remarks of Mr. Douglas (p.
I s4 i as to the value of ground vineries, as they are
termed, for forwarding such early vegetable crops
as he mentions. For small gardens, where hot-
beds and frames are an impossibility, there is
nothing better for this purpose, and in larger
gardens they are also valuable. The late Mr. D.
Lumsden had great faith in protectors for forward-
ing early crops. He used long and narrow port-
able lights, each from 10 inches to 1 foot in width
and 0 feet long. The sides were formed of two thin
boards each about a foot in depth, and fixed to-
gether by cross-pieces. The tops inside were
grooved. In these grooves were run sheets of
glass. These were used for fixing over rows of
early Lettuce, young Cauliflowers, French Beans,
&c. The winter of 1879 was just as disastrous as
this as regards green vegetables, and I remember
these protectors were found of great value. —
A. Young.

Small early Cauliflowers.— Many now rely
upon the small-heading dwarf varieties sown in
January or the first week in February instead of
sowing the somewhat larger sorts in autumn.
Where this was done the seedlings will need atten-
tion as soon as the rough leaves are developed. If
a frame elevated on a warm bed of leaves can be
afforded, it will answer better than anything, the
soil used being somewhat retentive. Where boxes
are used, a few rough leaves will act as drainage,
and thus the rooting depth be increased. As each
handful of plants is removed from the seed pans, dust
the roots and stems with flowers of sulphur ; this
will check the disease known as blacklegs. Plants
in frames must be kept somewhat close for a week,

234

THE GARDEN

[April 6, 1895.

and then gradually aired until complete exposure
is practicable. Those in the boxes should be
placed in a warm greenhouse for a fortnight, and
at the commencement of April placed in frames to
be hardened off. Where a spare pit is at hand
some may be pricked out into it, so that when
large enough to remove to open quarters a per-
centage may be allowed to remain to produce
iome extra early heads. — J.

Celery running to seed.— At page 184 Mr.
Douglas, in his notes on early vegetables, speaks
of this running to seed when sown in boxes
and raised in heat. For several years I have
raised my early Celery in this way. I have only
experienced this difficulty once in fifteen years,
this being when the plants were allowed to re-
main in heat too long, and then pricked out into
boxes, placing these in frames heated with manure.
I sow early enough, so that when the plants are
well up they are removed into a cold house, and
when strong enough pricked out into a cold frame
till fit for removing into the trenches. — John
Ckook.

SCARCITY OF VEGETABLES.
In the course of my rounds among amateurs

and cottagers in Somersetshire I find a marked
scarcity of vegetables other than Potatoes.
Some few are able to vary the monotony with
Carrots, Onions, and Parsnips, but far more
are badly supplied with the two former, and
owing to the frosts could not get at the latter.
Turnips most of them grew, but had left them
on the ground, only to be completely destroyed
by frosts. Farmers had also apparently deter-
mined in their own mind that this was to have
been a mild winter, and as a consequence large
breadths of Swedish Turnips were left on the
ground to be fed off at leisure. Of these the
frosts have made a mess, and already the smell
of decay is observable.

In the gardens all is desolation, scarcely a
particle of green to be seen. Most of the
Brussels Sprouts present the appearance of
having been scorched to death ; Borecole is only
a few removes better, and Broccoli is com-
pletely destroyed. Old Cabbage stumps are all
dead ; young Cabbage plants if not killed are
yet badly scotched, and if winter Spinach re-
covers from the effects of the frosts I shall be
agreeably surprised. Leeks are very much
damaged in places, but in some instances they
have withstood the severe weather remarkably
well. Celery, whether roughly protected or
not, is as good as finished, the ridges being
hard frozen through. When I have to speak
of these occurrences, and which happen five
nights in a week, the question is invariably
asked, How could these difficulties have been
obviated 1 It is a question not so difficult to
answer as may at first sight appear. My con-
tention is that we ought always to prepare for
a severe winter. It may frequently happen
that nothing approaching a very destructive
frost happens when we are best prepared for
it, but sooner or later we are caught napping,
and then we wish we had made it a rule to always
prepare for the worst. In the first place we ought
to re-arrange our ideas as to what should be
grown for winter and early spring use. Some
of the most popular vegetables are really the
least reliable, while others that deserve to stand
higher in the estimation of the middle and work-
ing classes are not much grown, and that, too,
in spite of their being thoroughly reliable. In
the former class I would place Broccoli and
Savoys. Every owner of a garden must have a
few or many rows of Broccoli, but how often do
they stirvive a sharp frost, or if they do sur-
vive, how many of them are eaten ? More often
than not whole beds of them are fit to cut at
much about the same time. The variety that I

always advise those who have plenty of rough
pits or fruit houses to grow most extensively is
Veitch's Autumn Protecting, all the later plants
being housed or stored in pits before severe
frosts spoil them. It may be thought rank
heresy to speak against Savoy Cabbage, but I
hold them to be of less value than they are
usually considered. Too often the bulk are un-
fit for use or are overgrown and bursting long
before there is any real demand for them, and
it is very rare that either Dwarf Green Curled
and Drumhead are other than coarse, only the
early Tom Thumb section and Dwarf Dim
proving tender and mild in flavour. A severe
frost ruins all that may be left at midwinter.
Brussels Sprouts will stand a moderately severe
frost as well as most vegetables, but when frosts
are accompanied by biting easterly winds it seems
to dry them up. Half-grown Borecole is all
killed. Very strong stems well dotted with side
shoots have survived in many places, and will
yet do good service. If the Arctic Kales sent
out by Sutton and Sons stand the strain on
them this season as well as I have known them
do severe frosts and cold winds in other win-
ters, they ought to be grown everywhere. They
areintwocolours — purpleand green— andbelong
to the same section as the ordinary Scotch or
Green Curled. There are also two colours in
the Asparagus Kale ; both cook green. This,
again, is a most reliable kind, and in some gar-
dens I have been in are all there are alive.
Presently they will push up fine succulent
greens most freely, and the more they are
gathered from the more they will spread and
grow, the season extending to June. Those
farmers who annually sow or plant large
breadths of Thousand-headed Kale on the chance
of their doing good service other than as cattle
feed will have good cause, I should say, to con-
gratulate themselves upon their perseverance. If
within easy distance of a large town, and London
in particular, they will be able to sell breadths
of good produce at from i.75 to £100 per acre.
This has happened before and will again
occasionally. Unfortunately we only eat Thou-
sand-headed Kale when we cannot get anything
else, and as a consequence very little of it is
grown. What we want is something equally
hardy and productive, but of superior quality
when cooked. The Cottager's Kale is a step in
the right direction, and since these notes were
started I have come across a breadth in which
at least one half the plants have stood the test
remarkably well. With a return of milder
weather these survivors will produce an abund-
ance of greens that will be fully appreciated.
This is not the first time by any means that
Cottager's Kale has proved reliable, and those
who have a fairly large household to supply
ought always to grow a breadth of it. There
may come a time when it would be acceptable
in the dining-room occasionally as well as in the
servants' hall, where it most often goes.
Sprouting Broccoli, again, is not often seen in
the dining-rooms of the wealthier classes, but it
is by no means to be despised. Not unfrequently
it stands much better than the ordinary Broccoli,
but I have seen none alive in my rounds. It is
most unfortunate that so few comparatively
appreciate the Leek. It is, as I have already
pointed out, one of the most reliable winter
vegetables we have, and I believe I am right in
describing it as a delicately flavoured as well as
very wholesome vegetable. Medicinal proper-
ties are also ascribed to it, and which are to a
certain extent deserved.

Foremost among these I would place Runner
Beans. Instead of letting these hang on the
plants to spoil, they ought to be gathered as
fast as tit for use, prepared for cooking, and
then placed in large jars, each layer of sliced
Beans being covered with a layer of salt.
Stored in a cool, dry place, they keep admirably,
and if well soaked in water twelve hours prior
to cooking will taste nearly or quite as good as
fresh gathered Beans. There is a great waste
in that direction especially in years when Beans
are exceptionally productive till very late in the
season. Green Peas should also be stored
rather than be allowed to spoil. Cottagers in
many districts keep nearly all the Vegetable
Marrows they grow for winter use, hanging them
up in their kitchens. As a rule, though, they throw
them away after they think they have kept
them long enough. This time they are using
them, and these stored Marrows are not bad
eating. Farmers are a more short-sighted race
than cottagers even. Many of them have tried
the blanched tops of Swedish Turnips when
these have been gathered from roots stored in
heaps, and found them nearly equal to good
Seakale, yet they never think of placing a
quantity of roots in a cellar with a view to have
early and numerous dishes of blanched shoots.
This season very few of them have saved any of
their roots, so that Swedish Turnips, commonly
called " Swedes," cannot be bought to use as a
vegetable, or for placing in cellars or other
dark places to give blanched growths in quan-
tity. We ought always to grow Seakale exten-
sively. Even those who have few or no facili-
ties for forcing, too, could yet forward Seakale
in cellars, or even blanch the tops by heavily
moulding [over the crowns. Unblanched
growths would be acceptable enough this sea-
son. Of other garden vegetables that ought to
be more grown for winter use to form a dish
occasionally or often, and not merely for
flavouring soups, I would place Jerusalem
Artichokes in the front. They are easily grown,
quite hardy, or may be stored, and properly
served would soon become popular where at
present despised or not known. Chinese Arti-
chokes again are very productive, easily kept,
and good to eat. Onions ought to be largely
served as a vegetable, and Carrots, Parsnips,
and Turnips properly cooked are wholesome
and good. All these with Salsafy and Scor-
zonera for those who know what to do with
them could always be stored in quantity, and
when other vegetables are scarce would prove '
most acceptable. W. I.

Those who were sufficiently careful with some
of the kinds of vegetables that can be stored or
kept for winter use have long since realised
what a boon these have proved or are proving.

Sowing Broccoli too early. — This is a
matter of considerable importance, and one giving
rise to comment each season as the time of sowing
comes round. Quite recently I note that Mr.
Crawford advises early sowing of such sorts as
Backhouse's, Snow's and Cooling's because they
require a long season of growth. Possibly this
may be quite true in Mr. Crawford's case, but in
the southern and western counties such early sow-
ing is unnecessary, particularly so in the case of
Snow's Winter White. I used to tow this with
others late in March and in April, but never had a
useful crop until the sowine was deferred till May.
I am cutting useful heads from plants lifted just
previous to the first spell of sharp weather and laid
in in a border in a house from which frost was ex-
cluded, and with such a dearth of green vegetables
these are extremely valuable. Left outdoors they
would have quickly succumbed, and the variety is
one that always requires similar treatment, and the
chances of obtaining matured heads is extremely
doubtful, due as it is in early or midwinter. It is
not usually convenient to have vacant ground at
the time that Broccoli sown early would need to
be either temporarily or permanently planted ; and
left crowded in the seed bed to await convenience

April 6, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

235

at once deprives them of the chance of making a | till quite late in the autumn. Last season I was
stout sturdy growth. Those who have been in the | able to cut some_good heads as late asthe middle

habit of sowing their Broccoli in March should this
year make a point of making an additional one in
April, and of Snow's variety in May, and the re-
sults will no doubt favour a repetition of the prac-
tice in future seasons— at least in the warmer coun-
ties. As I have not practised in the north I cannot
say what the effects of late sowing in Broccoli
might be, but perhaps some of your correspondents
would favour us with their experience on that
point. More than ordinary precaution against
bird and insect pests need be taken when seeds are
sown thus late, because the loss of these cannot
well be made good by further sowing, unless it be
under glass, and this is not advisable only in ex-
treme cases. — W. S., Wilts.

Summer Cauliflowers.— There will be such a
very great and general scarcity of late Broccoli
this summer through the late severe winter killing
large breadths outright, that the value of the
earliest summer Cauliflowers will be almost
untold, and there will be a desire and, indeed, a
necessity on the part of all vegetable growers to
forward this crop so as to have it at the earliest
possible date. It is not many years since the
Early London was a standard sort and grown by
almost everyone for early work, but of late so
many varieties have been introduced that are both
earlier and better, that its usefulness is becoming
less appreciated year by year. Perhaps one of the
best known of the select early Cauliflowers is
Veitch's Dwarf Forcing, as this has been in culti-
vation for some years, and if I was confined to one
sort only for summer work this would claim first
place. X grew this last year alongside Early Lon-
don, and its superiority was not only found in its
turning in more quickly, but in remaining fit for
use so much longer than did the old one. It takes
up less space, too, which in an extra early kind is
of much value. Hand-lights, boxes and pots will
all have to be requisitioned for hastening on the
growth, coupled with shelter from threatening
frost and cold winds, and those who have chosen
one or more of the best early selections may, if
the weather should soon become genial, make
good to some extent the loss of the Broccoli crop.
From pots they sooner become established than
when planted out from boxes, unless they are
allowed abundant space, so that the soil and roots
can be lifted out in good sized squares. The plants
should in any case receive no check. — \V. S.,
Rood Ashton.

Globe Artichc kes. — The past winter has
been a trying one for these plants, especially in
low, wet districts where the soil is heavy and re-
tentive. I have always found it a good plan in
such situations to cover the ground about the
roots with about a foot of fresh leaves in the
autumn before frost sets in. At the first approach
of severe weather the roots are covered with
Bracken or other litter, which secures them
against the most intense frost, and this is not re-
moved till the weather is favourable in March.
Where such covering has been applied it should
now be removed, and the ground between the
plants forked over to admit the light and sun to
warm the soil. Young suckers will soon make
their appearance, and when these are about 6
inches or 8 inches high the soil should be removed
from round the plants in order that they may be
taken off with a heel. To grow good Artichokes
the ground must be well tilled ; therefore the plot
on which it is intended to plant the suckers
should be previously trenched and liberally
manured. I plant in rows 4 feet apart, allowing
a distance of 3 feet between the plants. Three
suckers are used to form a clump, and these are
planted in a triangular manner (i inches apart ; in
this manner more crowns are produced the first
season. Though Artichokes may occupy the same
ground for several years, I prefer to allow them to
remain only two, for by planting a portion each
season larger heads can be had in addition to a
much longer supply ; for whereas the old roots
will produce an early crop, those planted in April,
if due care be taken to water them till esta-
blished, will continue to throw up flower-stalks

of December. The plants are gross feeders, and
on light land will need plenty of support while
growing in the shape of liquid manure. — H. C. P.

Turnips.— If a little eare is taken in preparing
the site, a sowing of Turnips may now be made
even in unfavourable gardens. Although the roots
prefer a cool, moist bottom in midsummer, yet at
this date a south or west border is best, also a
fairly light, warm soil. Some time ago I advised
the preparation for this sowing by turning up and
incorporating with the soil burnt refuse, sweep-
ings of drives, and some rough leaf -mould, and in
preference to spit manure the use of guano or
fowls' manure. If, however, the ground has now
to be prepared, the latter had better be withheld,
or damage may be apprehended. Early Milan
and White Dutch may be sown in equal quanti-
ties in shallow drills 1 foot apart, well firming the
surface afterwards, and covering with fish netting
to protect from birds. If when the seedlings show
themselves any trace of Turnip fly appears, dust
at once with wood ashes ; indeed, an occasional
sprinkling as a preventive is best. Where the hint
was taken last month and Early Milan sown in a
frame on a slight hotbed, growth will now be rapid.
If any more thinning is needed let it be done w ith-
out delay, as Turnips left too closely together very
soon become leggy and fall about in all directions.
If loose, press the seedlings into the soil gently
with the finger and thumb. Keep moist by tepid
waterings, administered on fine days. As soon as
the bulbs are fairly formed give a good watering
either with diluted farmyard water or guano
water. Fly must also be watched for assiduously,
as even in frames it will sometimes attack the
crop. This sowing will afford capital Turnips
very early, the flavour being good by reason of
growth never being checked, as are sometimes
early outdoor lots. — J.

Late Queen Broccoli. — The arctic weather
that we have experienced this year has caused
such a scarcity of vegetables in the kitchen garden
as many of us never remember before ; even curled
Kale is killed, and all Broccoli, with the exception
of one variety, viz., Late Queen, is destroyed. The
sort named has withstood the great frost with
comparatively little damage; the edges of the
leaves are browned a little, but the centres are un-
injured, and fully 90 per cent, will produce heads
at the proper season. In another garden not far
away there has been a greater loss amongst Late
Queen, only about 50 per cent, remaining safe.
In that case the grower did not sow until the end
of April, as he does not believe in sowing earlier.
Mine were sown by the middle of March, and I
think that is the reason why the plants have stood
so well, as the position is not sheltered and not so
favourable in that respect as that of the grower
referred to. No doubt the early sowing gives the
plants a longer season of growth, which is better
matured, and thus able to pass through greater
cold safely than plants raised later. I have sown
Late Queen in February when the soil was in ex-
cellent condition with satisfactory results, these
never turning in before the usual time. It is
possible that we may have an equally severe
winter again, and I would suggest sowing the
above variety now or immediately the soil is
ready and transplanting, not less than 20 inches
apart each way, as soon as the plants are large
enough into fairly rich and firm soil. — W. ti.,
Ross, Hereford.

Sowing' Peas and Beans. — When should I
sow Duke of Albany Pea and Mammoth Long-
pod Broad Bean to come in on July 23 ? — F. P. K.

%* This question would be less difficult to
answer if one could foretell the weather, which is
the important factor. Another point deserving
of attention is that Duke of Alban37 Pea is much
sooner over than some kinds. It crops freely,
but only lasts a short season. Most of the crop
can be cleared in a fortnight, there being no suc-
cession of pods, as in Ne Plus Ultra. My advice
to secure Peas for the date named is to sow twice,
say the second week in April and again ten days

or a fortnight later. In this way if the weather
is favourable those from the first sowing will be
past their best, but the pods from the second
sowing will be in perfection, and you will have
two strings to your bow. So much depends upon
position, soil, and culture, that precise dates
cannot be given. Most growers, however, at
that season allow twelve weeks with quick-
podding varieties. If the soil is dry more time
is required at the start, and for Peas to be at
their best at the time named, there should be
ample food at the roots with plenty of moisture.
Two sowings of the Mammoth Long-pod Bean
should be made. The plants are not over so
quickly as those of Duke of Albany Pea, but the
Beans soon get black, and if required for exhi-
bition must be young, but fully grown. I would
advise sowing this crop on a north border or on a
cool site. Growth is rapid, and in dry soils the
plants are soon infested with black fly, which
checks growth. By making two sowings there is
less chance of failure. The first should be made
about the same time as advised for Peas generally,
and should the season be favourable the second lot
will be best. One lot may be sown on a warmer
border, and there will be no fear of failure, as
should the weather be hot the lot sown in April
will provide the supply. In a warm garden the
crop would come to maturity in about ten weeks
from the time of sowing. — Grower.

Pea Daisy. — This sterling variety merits all
that is said in its favour by Mr. Wythes (p. 185).
I have sown it both in frames and outside, and
for the former purpose it is a grand acquisition, as
it forces admirably, and bears its large pods of
deliciously-flavoured Peas in profusion. The fact
of its originating from a cross between Stratagem
and Culverwell's Giant Marrow, the produce
recrossed again with Stratagem, and also receiv-
ing the award of merit from the Royal Horti-
cultural Society on at least two occasions, at once
stamps it as one of the best Peas ever introduced.
— W. G. C.

A good winter Turnip. — Many growers sow
a quarter rather late to provide Turnip greens, and
in mild winters rely upon small roots for spring
supplies. The severe weather will have upset
many calculations as regards the spring supply
of green vegetables, and but few Turnips will be
left to provide roots or green tops. With me all
the Turnips have perished except the Chirk
Castle Black Stone, the roots of which at this date
(the middle of March) are sound and the tops
quite green, the new growth pushing up freely. I
have always prized this variety for winter use, but
shall do so more now, as the tops next month will
be invaluable. I think the hard black skin this
variety possesses must protect it largely, as the
bulbs "are quite sound. I earthed up the rows
late, as I find this a great protection. Some may
object to the colour of the root of Chirk Castle
Turnip, but when boiled the flesh is white and
the quality excellent. — S. H. B.

Notes on runner Beans. — This vegetable
is almost indispensable in most gardens, as it
is not only delicious and highly productive,
but serves admirably as a screen to hide any
unsightly objects, or to prevent certain quar-
ters of the garden being too much in view. For a
number of years I have thus employed runner
Beans— in fact, all the Beans that I require for the
use of the family are so grown ; and I believe
each year the produce improves from sowing
annually in the same places that are liberally
manured for each crop. If the Beans are not too
crowded and neatly staked. I question if anything
else will act so well as a screen, or give such an
ornamental appearance. There is now a great
variety of Scarlet Runners of excellent merit, and
for light, hot sandy soils I have found none to
surpass l<e Plus Ultra. If immense pods are de-
sired. Carter's Elephant or Carter's Jubilee Runners
will meet the wishes of anyone, as both freely
produce pods of great length, very straight,
deep green in colour, and remarkably tender.
The Czar is another very large sort that I have
grown ever since its introduction, but this year it

230

THE GARDEN

[ArmL 6, 1895.

will be superseded. If possible room should be
found for the new climbing French Bean, as it is
a fine acquisition. Treated in the same manner
as Scarlet Runners, it will bear enormous crops of
] >ods, and will continue cropping for a long season.
Provided no pods are allowed to become old and
form seed, daily supplies of tender Beans can be
picked until frost cuts the plants down. Those
gardeners who have to provide French Beans in
quantity early and late in the season will find this
variety a great boon. — YV. G. C.

Tomato Duke of York. — I was glad to see
Mr. G. Wythes' brief note on this new Tomato.
and, with him, believe it will get popular. Last
year I hail a few plants sent me by a friend for
trial, and they produced a very heavy crop of
handsome fruit. So satisfactory was the variety
for home consumption and also for market, that I
am growing it much more extensively this year,
and it will replace both Perfection and Ham
Green. I may add that all my Tomatoes are
planted in soil that has been thrown into heap?
at the roadside by the roadmen when cleaning
up the roads. In addition to decayed vege-
table matter, this road soil contains some
lime from the limestone used in metalling the
roads, and Tomatoes seem to thoroughly enjoy
this compost, as they make very short-jointed
wood, with a profusion of fruit of a fine flavour.
After the soil has been watered several times it
becomes very firm, and this may account for the
sturdy and prolific character of the plants. In the
discussion on Mr Collenette's paper on "Diseases
of Tomatoes " Mr. Douglas is reported to have
stated that he never had disease in his Tomato
houses. This he attributed to making the soil
firm, never using any artificial manures, and
maintaining a dry atmosphere during growth.
Regarding the firm soil and dry atmosphere, I
fully agree with Mr. Douglas, but my experience
is the opposite as regards manures, as I have
found natural manures promote disease, and
artificial ones the reverse. If Mr. Douglas would
oblige by stating how he manures, it would
interest many readers. — W. G. C.

quires supplementing with manure of some kind.
If the plants are potted in this material without
the addition of manure, the growth will be weakly
and devoid of vigour.

If the stems of the plants do not swell freely in
their infancy, they cannot do so freely afterwards.
My experience is that Chrysanthemums cannot
grow too freely from the commencement. To
two parts of poor loam add one part of well-
rotted horse manure, one part of leaf soil, silver
sand and crushed charcoal, according to the
nature of the loam. If the soil is not in any way
impregnated with lime or chalk, add pounded
oyster shells liberally. For convenience in potting
rub the soil through a half-inch sieve. About
three crocks carefully laid at the bottom of each
pot with the rougher parts of the rompost over
them will suffice for drainage. If the soil is
moist, as it should be when used, no water will
be required for two or three days, when a good
soaking should be given. Return the plants to the
shelf close to the glass in a cool house where
frost is excluded. Here the plants should remain
until the roots run through the soil to the sides of
the pots when a cold frame stood in a sheltered
sunny spot will suit them best. Care should be
taken to stand the plants on a thick layer of coal
ashes, with the double object of raising the plants
close to the glass and providing efficientdrainage.

E. Molvneux.

Chrysanthemums.

CULTURAL NOTES ON CHRYSAN-
THEMUMS.

No time should be lost in transferring the plants
from the cutting pots to larger ones directly the
former are full of roots. No greater harm can
happen to plants than allowing the roots to be-
come matted together. The object should be to
keep the plants steadily growing from the time
roots are formed to the time when the blooms are
developing. The advantage of inserting the cut-
tings singly in small pots will be apparent when
the first potting takes place. Instead of their
feeling a check by the removal of the soil from
their roots, as is the case when several cuttings
are placed in one pot, the singly potted cuttings
are transferred to larger pots without the least
check to their growth. For the first potting a
large shift is not necessary, pots 3| inches in
diameter being large enough. From these the
plants go into others 5h inches, and finally into
'.(-inch ones. Experience has shown that it is a
mistake to employ large pots for single plants.
Not only do they occupy unnecessary space, but
the plants cannot be so liberally fed as when in
pots of the size named. Chrysanthemum roots
have such a tendency to run straight to the out-
side of the soil, that when pots too large are em-
ployed in the early stages of growth the inner
part of the soil in the pots is not nearly fully
occupied. The compost for the first potting
should be carefully prepared. Loam is the prin-
cipal ingredient in the compost for potting at any
stage. The condition of this must be closely
studied. While loam will in some cases be fairly
rich, that from other districts^may be exceedingly
poor in quality. Such material as the latter re-

SHOR T NO TES. — CHR YSA NT HEM UMS.

Chrysanthemum La Belle Blonde— Where
varieties with fragrant Bowers are in request, and they
are encouraged by some societies, this incurved kind is
worthy of "attention. The blush-w-hite blooms are
pleasing.

Chrysanthemum Miss Cannell.— It may not
he generally known that this pure white, single-
flowered Chrysanthemum is very fragrant, and where
prizes are offered for blooms possessing scent, it is a
good sort to cultivate. — E. M.

Chrysanthemum M. Gruyer. — This Japanese
variety was introduced to commerce in lt94 bv M.
Galvat, and is at once a great improvement upon Vice-
President Audiguier. The colour of the flower is
light rose, shaded and tipped white. The habit is
dwarf, a point in its favour. The blooms are of full
size.— E. M.

Chrysanthemum Bev. W. E. Eewfrey.—
This single-flowered variety possesses more colour than
the bulk of kinds in this section, and for that reason is
worthy a place in ever so limited a collection of this
section. The individual blooms are deep crimson,
freely produced, and valuable for decoration either in a
cut state or growing upon the plants. — E. M.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1008

SENECIO LAX1FOLIUS.

( WITH A COLOURED PLATE. * )

This is one of the numerous shrubby com-
posites which constitute so prominent a feature
in the flora of New Zealand. It is a native of
the Southern Island, and was first collected on
the Nelson Mountains by Mr. H. H. Travers.
From this locality it extends to the Canterbury
Alps at elevations varying from 2500 feet to
5000 feet. It was originally described by Mr.
J. Buchanan in the "Transactions of the New
Zealand Institute," November, 18G9. It is a
woody, much-branched shrub of neat habit,
the leaves being of a greyish colour above
and covered beneath with a yellowish white
down, as are also the young branches and
petioles. The inflorescence is a loose corymb,
the flower-heads being about 1 inch across

and the ray florets golden yellow. The name
laxifolius may have been given at fitst in
mistake for laxiflorus, which would certainly
be more appropriate to the open corymbs borne
on slender peduncles than the present one is
to the foliage. With regard to the affinities of
the species, it was stated by Mr. Buchanan to be
nearly related to S. Monroi, but according to
Sir Joseph Hooker it is much more closely
allied to S. Greyi, a species which he described
in "The Flora of New Zealand" upwards of
forty years ago. From S. Greyi it differs
slightly in habit, but chiefly in its smaller
leaves ; in other respects it is so near to that
species, that it may be considered a geographical
form belonging to the Southern Island ; whilst
S. Greyi itself is confined to the Northern
Island.

It was originally introduced to Kew, and is
now grown there. A plant, however, on the
rockery has succumbed during the past winter.
It is probably better adapted to the climate of
the south-westein counties and the south of
Ireland. It is one of the many rare plants
which grow in Mr. Gumbleton's garden near
Cork, and it is from his plant that the accom-
panying plate and that of the last volume of
the Botanical Magazine have been prepared. —
W. J. B.

This pretty free-blooming and perfectly

hardy New Zealand shrub came to me between
two and three years ago from the Royal Gar-
dens, Kew, under the name of S. Gregi. When
it bloomed with me in the open border last
summer I sent the flowers to Kew, where they
had not yet seen them, and on examination and
comparison with the specimens in the her-
barium it was pronounced to be S. laxifolius.
It appears from the letterpress attached to the
plate in the Botanical Magazine, No. 7378
(which was also prepared from my specimen),
that it is very near to S. Gregi, which it may
be said to represent in the Southern Island of
New Zealand, as it (S. Gregi) is only found in
the Northern. It forms a low-growing tufty
bush, and blooms freely in quite a small state
on the tips of nearly every strong shoot. As it
stood the severest frost I ever remember here
when the thermometer fell to 3, or 29° of frost,
on January 4-5, 189-1, without receiving any
injury therefrom and without any protection
save that afforded by a light covering of snow,
it may be pronounced to be perfectly hardy. —
W. E. Goibleton.

* Drawn for The Gjrden by Miss Tisdale in Mr.
Gumbleton's garden at Belgrove, t^ueenstowD , Ireland.
Lithographed and printed by Guillaume Severeyns.

The yellow Aconite. — There are few places
where the yellow Aconite is seen in such perfec-
tion as at Coleby Hall, near Lincoln. The borders
everywhere are one mass of yellow, every foot of
ground covered. On bright days when millions
of flowers are open the sight is gorgeous and not
easily forgotten, especially at this dull time of the
year when hardy flowers are far from plentiful. —
J. R.

Erica codonodes and the recent frost. —
When observing the enormous number of orna-
mental shrubs which have been either killed or
disfigured by the recent severe weather, it is
pleasing to come across shrubs that have not only
escaped, but are looking green and bright and
even flowering at this time of the year. Such a
shrub is Erica codonodes, which is now in full
bloom in an exposed position at Messrs. R. Veitch
and Son's branch nursery at Exminster, Devon.
Neither large nor small plants have suffered in the
least, while close beside them Pernettya mucronata
and other shrubs are cut to the ground. Another
handsome Evergreen in the same nursery is
Choisya ternata, which has been very little in-
jured. Just a few of the outside leaves are nipped
by the severe cold, but the flower-buds are un-
injured and look very promising. — F. W. M.

SENECIO LAXIFOLIUi

Arflii. 6, 1895

THE GARDEN

237

The Week's Work.

FRUIT HOUSE?.

Pot Vines for next year. — Most growers doubt-
less are in a position to purchase their fruiting
canes from large growers who make a speciality
of producing canes for hard forcing, and thus save
time and secure a good crop. Others are not so
fortunate, and my remarks apply to those who are
obliged to grow their own canes, often under con-
siderable difficulties as regards space and labour
to devote to the work. I still follow the well-
known practice of potting on what are termed cut-
backs, or last season struck Vines, and repotting
now should be finished if the canes are intended for
forcing early. Some growers pot direct into the
fruiting pots, others give two pottings — one in
February or March, another the middle of April,
but so much depends upon the size of the plants.
If they are strong and were potted last season
into 8-inch pots, they will now shift readily into the
fruiting size. If, on the other hand, they are at
all small, it is well to give two pottings. As most

f rowers are aware, the Vine in a young state
oes not root freely till the shoots are somewhat
advanced in growth, so that it is well to repot
after growth is well advanced just at the time they
commence to push out new roots. ■ This com-
mences when the new shoots are from 4 inches to
li inches long. When repotting at this stage the
compost should be of a suitable temperature, the
pots clean, well drained, and the work done
quickly in a warm house so as to avoid cold
draughts, potting firmly, and leaving a good space
at the top to hold water. I never advise the use
of decayed manure in the final potting, as food
maybe supplied in quantities as required from the
surface. On the other hand, I do not advise a poor
soil. Good turfy loam that has been stacked some
months with such additions as Thomson's Vine
manure and bone meal will make a good mixture
and promote a short-jointed growth. Some good
growers advise bones as drainage, but I prefer to
use them in a fine state in the soil, as if given too
much water at any time before the pots are full
of roots the soil soon gets sour. After potting, if
a little bottom heat can be given, it is well for
the plants, but not imperative. Careful watering
at the start is essential and a light place near the
glass. Syringe twice daily, giving a tempera-
ture of 05° to 70° by day with a free circulation
of air to promote a sturdy growth, and .5° to 1(1°
lower temperature at night, according to the
■weather. Ample supples of food will be needed
when the pots are full of roots and top growth
robust.

Vines planted out. — Much the same practice
as that detailed above applies to Vines planted in
a narrow or restricted border, and this mode of
c ilture is better in many respects, as those with
li nited space or labour may with advantage get
early Grapes at less trouble than with pot culture.
I find it most advantageous, but it may be thought,
why grow cut-backs when young Vines struck in
one season may be fruited the next either in pots
or in small borders ? The truth is, we do not get
sufficient sun to ripen the wood — in fact our
seasons are too uncertain, and I find much better
results are obtained from Vines struck one year
and planted out or potted on the next. The
planting-out system is good where there are small
pits or low houses, as with the latter many more
plants can be grown. It is not necessary to give
the canes all the space. We grow pot Figs and
such plants as require the same temperature as
well. The compost advised for pot Vines is the
same, and a root space of IS inches to 2 feet is
given, but the latter may be wider or deeper ac-
cording to the means of the cultivator, and it is
-equally necessary to have plenty of drainage. By
planting out now with what may be termed plant-
ing canes, growth is rapid, and there is no difficulty
in getting firm wood by the end of the summer
months. The planting differs from potting in
this respect, the old soil is shaken away and the
roots spread out carefully ; hence the necessity of

doing the work before the Vines have made much
growth, and to prevent a check it is well to start
the young plants in a medium temperature to get
strong breaks, as then it is an easy matter to give
the newly-planted Vines more warmth. From
Vines planted early in April there is no difficulty
in getting ripe fruit in a little more than twelve
months from date of planting, and such Vines may
be cropped more freely, as they colour better with
more root space. In planting it is w:ell to have a
firm bed, ramming the soil as the work proceeds
and giving the roots a little finer material than
the main body of the bed of the soil. Young
cultivators may require more information as to
the advantages of bottom heat, and if possible to
apply the same. It is a great gain both at the
planting and again when starting the Vines for
early forcing. Such heat is not required in the
summer or when a free growth is secured — indeed
does more harm than good, as with a small border
the roots dry readily. Those who have not the
means to give warmth at the time named will find
they obtain equally as good results, though it may
take a little longer time.

Melons in pots. — Early plants require abun-
dant food at each watering, and manure may
be given in a liquid state, or as a surface dress-
ing in the form of a fertiliser. Pot plants,
being restricted to a small space, require more
food and should not be allowed to get dry, as
with the lower roots in a dry state swelling ceases,
with the result the fruits lack both size and
flavour. Syringing the crop will now be an im-
portant part of culture. The plants revel in heat
and moisture ; given these two latter, red spider
will be absent, there will be less fear of cracking,
and the growth being free there is less disease,
Temperatures may now range high, the night
being T'l3 and 10° higher by day, with air on the
top ventilators, allowing a rise to 90° at closing
time. There should br no fall in the bottom heat;
this should be at least 80°; and if the bed is kept
moist there will be less need of heavy syringing,
as there will be constant vapour and a healthy
growth. In recommending syringing or watering
of these plants the 'grower must take into account
the structure in which the plants are grown, as
close, small or sunken houses do not dry so
quickly as large exposed ones. When damping
down it is well to do it thoroughly, but lightly ;
there is no need to cause the water to run down
to the roots, a slight dewing over being sufficient.
Pot-grown Melons may be had of superior flavour
to those grown on manure, as there is a greater
command of the roots. There should be no delay
in supporting heavy fruits and it is not necessary
to describe any plan, as most growers adopt the
means they consider best, but the less pressure
there is on the fruits the better. In pot plants
there is less pinching of lateral growth than with
others, but it is equally important to pinch out
all laterals after the fruits are swelling freely, as
such growths rob the fruit. Top-dressing will be
necessary, and such aids as decayed manure soil
and bone-meal may be freely given, leaving the
collar of the plants as free as possible. In ease
the surface of the pots is covered, rough pieces of
loam may be used at the outside or round the
rims to hold the new soil. It will readily be seen
when the fruits stop swelling, and at that period
it is well to water sparingly with pure tepid water
only, as at that time flavour must be considered.
More air will be necessary, but it is not wise to
reduce supplies too quickly, as a Melon ripened
in this way is rarely first-rate.

Succession and frame Melons. — With more
sun-heat there will be no difficulty in getting a
free growth, and no matter in what way the
plants are grown, good results may now be ex-
pected. Successions may be grown as cordons or
in the old form with two or three main shoots
from one plant, but I do not see any gain except
in saving of plants at the start or in the case of
any variety one is anxious to fill a large space
with. Many good growers advocate poor, very
hard soil and little food at the start. I do not
think it necessary in the case of all varieties. Some,
I admit, that grow much to leaf and are bad setters

may require starving, but I think a sound or
heavy soil with such aids as wood ashes and a
sprinkling of bone-meal or fertiliser gives the
plants a start. Many fruits are not worth eating
by being grown on a mass of decayed manure.
With restricted root space there is no fear of the
collapse of plants where plenty of heat can be
given. With plants grown on the extension plan
the points must be pinched when a few inches
above the trellis and two or four shoots trained
over it, these shoots later on pinched, when lateral
growth will push out, showing plenty of female
flowers. The grower should endeavour to get as
many set at one time as possible to prevent one
or two stray or early fruits taking the lead, only
to be removed and cause a delay of ten days or
more. I have a great liking for the cordon
system : there is less difficulty in setting at one
time. It is a certain way to obtain an early set,
and though more plants are required, the cost is so
small it need scarcely be mentioned. For this
method sturdy growers should be selected and
planted at 15 inches to IS inches apart, the growths
restricted to one till the plants reach well up the
trellis, when they should be stopped, and the first
two fruits set which show on the laterals. Less
soil is required by cordon plants. I have secured
very good fruits in 6 inch pots plunged in soil or
fibre. Such plants require a lot of food, but there is
no trouble with canker and the crop is quickly
cleared. Melons in frames are much grown during
the summer months by those who cannot devote
a house to their culture and excellent fruits have
been obtained with very little means at command.
Pome years ago I grew a lot of fruits in frames
that had raised early Potatoes without bottom-
heat of any kind, but the soil was made firm and
the plants were close to the light. I also found it
advantageous to place slates or tiles if there was
much manure directly under the plants to prevent
rooting through into the manure, the evil with
frame Melons being gross growth and difficulties
of setting. Many could grow good Melons during
the summer without bottom-heat by planting
strong sturdy plants and by careful attention To
watering. Now is a good time to prepare plants
for this purpose, and they are best raised in frames
or near the glass from the start. For frame cul-
ture such kinds as Blenheim Orange, Gunton
Orange, Beauty of Syon, and Hero of Lockinge
have a good sturdy habit. By sowing now there
will be strong plants at the end of the month, and
they will be ready to plant at a time we get long
days with plenty of sun-heat. The frames should
be covered at night to maintain an even night
temperature, and it is not well to have the foliage
wet at night. Damping and watering should be
done early in the afternoon, closing with plenty of
sun-heat. Beds for bottom-heat should be pre-
pared, using plenty of Oak or Beech leaves in the
stable manure, the material prepared by turning
and*placing in heaps in readiness for use, and in
making the bed the more solid it can be made the
more gentle will be the heat. Soil should be
placed in hillocks as the heat declines a few days
before planting. G. Wythes.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Spinach — Earlier in the year I advised sowing
this vegetable between the rows of dwarf early
Peas on sunny borders. The same plan has fre-
quently to be adopted between rows of later Peas
owing to scarcity of ground. Where, however,
ground is plentiful, it will be best from the pre-
sent time to the end of the season to sow on
separate plots. Tall branching sorts of Peas so
shade Spinach that not only is growth drawn
and weakly, but the quality likewise suffers pro-
portionately. Allow 15 inches between the rows
and thin out freely, as if left thick the leaves do
not attain to half their normal size and the crop
runs to seed much sooner ; 9 inches from plant to
plant is a good distance. The Victoria is an im-
provement on the ordinary round variety, at
least for sowing now and for the next three
months. If an east border can be reserved
for sowings during June and July so much the

238

THE GARDEN.

[Apeil 6, 1895.

better, as at that date this crop does much better
with less sun and more moisture. All growing
crops of this vegetable will be improved by an
occasional sprinkling of guano between the rows.

Forcing AspabaguS. — If any more roots grown
specially for the purpose, or those from old beds
which are to be done away with, have yet to be
forced, this will now be an easy matter. Where
frames on hotbeds have been employed for earlier
batches, they may, as each lot is cleared out, be
refilled with fresh roots without any renewal of
the fermenting material, as closed lights and in-
creased sun heat will soon start the crowns into
growth. I find leaf-mould as good as anything
for covering with, the fibrous rootlets working
into it with great freedom. Planting completed,
give a good soaking with warm water to settle
the material, and keep the lights closed till
growth commences, when plentj' of air must be
admitted to strengthen and flavour it. When an
inch high, a watering with diluted farmyard
liquid, this being repeated in a week's time, will
be most helpful. This, however, should always
be followed by another of clear water as a cleans-
ing agent. If there are more roots than can be
at one time accommodated in the frame covering
the hotbed, place them in an ordinary cool frame,
keeping it close for a time. Here they will come
on very gradually, but still in advance of the
earliest outside beds. Where permanent beds,
constructed especially for forcing and heated by
manure linings, are still in cutting, care must be
taken that the litter placed over the crowns is not
too dense, as owing to more favourable weather
and increased heat the grass will be liable to run
up weakly. If the beds are nicely covered it will
suffice. Where outdoor beds have not yet been
seen to the manure should at once be raked off, the
surface pricked carefully over, a dressing of salt
applied for the eradication of worms and slugs,
this being followed by another of some approved
fertiliser. On very light sandy soils it is a capital
plan to cover the surface at the end of April with
spent Mushroom manure. This conserves the
moisture and keeps the roots in a cool and equal
temperature. In carrying out the work care is
needed, or the fork may destroy many of the
earliest growths. Any new beds intended for
planting in April may well have the surface
stirred several times to dry and sweeten it.

Early Vegetable Marrows. — In February I
advised sowing a few seeds of an early variety to
produce plants for yielding a few early Marrows
in May and June. Ours are now in (i-inch pots
and have been removed to an intermediate house,
placed near the roof glass. I generally grow a
few in pots 12 inches in diameter, and train the
growths to a wire trellis close to the front lights of
a span-roofed Peach house. This latter position is
necessary, as unless the plants have a free cir-
culation of fresh, dry air blowing through and
around them when in flower, the pollen does not
dry and a crop cannot be secured. If potted in
good sound loam no stimulant will be required
until the Marrows are swelling, when it may be
given at every alternate watering. Pinching and
regular thinning out of the foliage will likewise
be necessary. The remainder of the plants are
planted into a frame on a gentle warm bed of Oak
leaves, with a foot of good friable soil free from
animal manure. When planted they are kept some-
what close for a few days, afterwards admitting air
in strict accordance with the weather. Too much
moisture either at the roots or by the use of the
syringe is not advisable, as early Marrows are
very prone to canker and mildew, particularly in
dull, sunless weather. Many err in allowing too
much lateral growth, this being the greatest evil
in Marrow culture, as not only are the plants
weakened, but small, puny blossoms are formed
which seldom set. I usually sow the second lot
during the first week in April. These are grown
on in comfortable quarters and finally planted out
in the frame from which the earliest Potatoes
are taken. Moore's Cream, Sutton's Vegetable
Marrow and Pen-y-byd are all excellent where the
smaller varieties are preferred. Long White and
Green Bush are amongst the most profitable of

the larger sorts. The Custard Marrows are better
adapted for sowing later on, to be grown under
cooler conditions as the summer advances. In
sowing the seed use small pots, placing two seeds
in each and finally reducing to the strongest
plant. A temperature of 60° is suitable, and 55°
after growth has commenced.

Planting early Seakale. — In southern dis-
tricts where Seakale is expected early in Novem-
ber a few rows of prepared thongs may now be
planted, the main batches following about the
middle of April. Some time ago I advised the
preparation of a sunny plot for this special lot and
the exclusion of strong manure, which, especially
in rainy seasons, induces a prolonged growth and
late maturity. If the divisions have been laid in
warm, sandy soil and have had frame protection,
new growth will have commenced. On this
account careful handling will be necessary, as the
least touch will snap the brittle shoots. A calm
day is best for planting the sets, as draught soon
injures the new fibres which have formed while
the cuttings have been lying in soil. The best
mode of planting is to use a blunt-pointed dibber,
making a mark on the same, so that all the holes
may be of the same depth. Sink the crowns just
below the surface and finally cover each with half
an inch of leaf mould. This will shield the growths
from frost until somewhat hardened. If possible
allow 2 feet between each row- and 18 inches or 20
inches from set to set. In levelling the ground
afterwards use a fork, as raking the surface is apt
to damage the new growths. If forward enough,
reduce the growths to three on each set before
planting.

Earliest Celery. — Forward boxes or pans
sown early in February will now be in a fit state
to prick out. Nothing answers better than a
frame elevated on a shallow bed of leaves. All
that is requisite is just a gentle warmth at the
roots until the plants are established. Make the
soil firm, water the day previous to planting, and
keep the young seedlings covered with damp
Moss while the work is proceeding, so that the
fibrous roots do not suffer. For Sandringham and
similar dwarf varieties a little less space between
the plants than that usually allowed to main -crop
kinds will suffice. A little leaf-mould incorporated
with the soil will induce the formation of plenty
of roots and ensure the plants lifting with a good
ball at planting time. If ordinary boxes are used,
they should on the completion of pricking out be
removed to a warm sunny greenhouse or similar
structure, where after fresh roots have been made
abundance of air can be given. From this place
they may at the commencement of May be re-
moved to sheltered nooks and corners in the open
air and protected a little at night when frosty.

Main crop. — I never advise sowing this in heat.
An ordinary frame facing south and in a sheltered
position is the best. Employ good loamy soil and
pass the same through a rough riddle to remove
large lumps and stones. Let the seed-bed slope
gently to the sun, sow thinly, firming the surface
with the back of a spade, sprinkle with tepid
water and keep the lights closed and cover with
double mats at night. Under this treatment the
seedlings will soon appear, when a little air must
be admitted, increasing it as growth proceeds.
Thinning must be done as soon as possible, as
nothing tends to spoil Celery so much as crowding
the plants. Celery brought on in this cool way
seldom runs to seed prematurely and stands re-
moval to the trenches without exhibiting any signs
of distress. As regards varieties, it is well not to
confine oneself to one or even two. If the season
is indifferent and bolting takes place in autumn,
the cultivator is placed in a dilemma. Early Rose,
Standard-bearer, and Leicester Red, the latter a
grand sort that stands a wet winter without decay-
ing, also Wright's Grove Red, may all be grown with
confidence, while as a white sort to dig in Novem-
ber and December Wright's Grove White is hard
to beat. That capital old Celery Ivery's Nonsuch
Pink is still one of the very best. Where Celeriac
is valued in the kitchen, it may now be sown
under the same conditions as ordinary Celery, or

during the first or second week in April beneath
hand-lights in fine soil on a sunny border.

Forwarding French Beans.— A batch of Syon
House and Ne Plus Ultra may now be sown in
4j-inch pots in good holding soil and placed in
a warm greenhouse temperature until germinated,
when an ordinary frame will suit them best.
These if exposed in all favourable weather and
carefully watered will have a hardy constitution,
and be suitable for transferring to a warm,
sheltered corner of the kitchen garden about the
third week in April. Of course, they will then
need protection, especially at night, and if a
rough framework can be erected over the plot and
covered with mats or canvas at night, no fear of
injury need be entertained. About five Beans
should be left in each pot. When planting draw
out good wide drills and of the same depth as
the balls. Do not single the plants out, but
merely part the balls gently and press the soil
firmly round the roots. In addition to the night
protection, Fir or Laurel boughs must be placed
here and there for shelter.

Planting Broad Beans. — If the advice given
in February was adopted and sufficient seed of
the Early Mazagan sown in pots or boxes, they
will have had sufficient time for hardening off,
and may now be planted out in warm soil and
duly screened as advised for French Beans.
Plant sufficiently deep to prevent them from
swaying to and fro, and if the soil is at all dry,
water gently home. These will afford many
profitable pickings before those sown in the open
ground come into bearing.

Horseradish. — New plantations may now be
made on deeply trenched, highly enriched ground.
Pieces S inches or 9 inches long should be dibbled
in 15 inches apart, the crowns being left just level
with the soil.

Mint. — Where the forced supplies are becoming
exhausted and that in the open beds is not yet
fit for picking, a few clumps may be taken up
and placed on the border of a cool Peach house,
surrounding them with soil. In this situation
Mint will quickly grow and a break in the supply
be avoided.

Mustard and Cress may now be sown under
hand-lights in warm borders. If several of these
are used, inside sowings may now cease.

J. Crawford.

GARDEN SKETCHES.
Chapter X.

With an eye made quiet by the power
( tf harmony and the deep power of joy
We see into the life of things.

Wordsworth.

September 3. — Now comes the robin's sweet
autumn song. I believe the redbreast really
sings all through the summer-time, but that in
these calm autumn days, when the song of other
birds has ceased, we notice it the more ; and
somehow there always seems a tone of sadness
in the little tender flute-like notes as they break
through the tranquil air. They seem to tell us
that light and warmth, that leaves and blossoms
are receding from us, and no longer tripping
onward with the vernal hours. But the rich
sense of fulness and completion is ever pre«ent
in the autumn air, and this makes the robin's
song at once precious, and yet sad to us. We
have had our joy, even if it be now departing,
and we gather up the fragrant sunlit hours to
lie embalmed in our hearts, and be drawn forth
on many a darkened day, for the beautiful alone
is imperishable, and having once had birth,
though no longer visible, yet lives on for ever
in the soul.

One of the prettiest morning sights is the
circling flight of pigeons above an old farmstead
seen in the valley. Again and again, with an
upward sweep, they pass above the dark Fir

April C, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

239

trees with the sunshine caught on their out-
spread wings. A flash, and they are invisible,
as they turn in flight, and with a downward
curve seem almost to touch the old roof-top,
but instead, aloft they soar again, wheeling
round and round, till in a moment they drop
together, tired out with the joy of motion.
The swallows are already preparing for their
southern flight. They are congregating together,
sitting along the eaves of the dwelling-house,
and then rushing together through the air with
loud twitterings. On the chimney-tops sit the
starlings, since their young are reared and their
"labour of love" is ended for the year, and
down the hollow space of a sunny morning
comes a sweet, low sound, that mingles with
one's last waking dream. The little rippling
notes aie very touching, not clear or joyous,
but " tender and true," sweet contentment with
a simple lot ; like the bird itself, unnoticeable
except when brought near, when the lovely
iridescent hue becomes visible on its burnished
breast. The hedgerows are now rich in fruit-
age. Sprays of the wild Rose trees covered
with scarlet heps are mingled with the glisten-
ing Blackberries, fruits for the birds and for
the children, bound together in the thorny
hedge, while the tall uncut branches of the
Thorn hold the store-house of ruddy berries in
safe keeping for cheerless winter clays, when the
frost-bound earth yields nothing to the hungry
seeking beaks.

September 21. — In the rock garden Pent-
stemon cordifolius is at present one of the
finest bits of colour. Its long trailing branches,
covered with deep crimson flowers, are spread
out on either side. Some are lying across the
blue grass tufts of Dianthus and some have fallen
among the low-growing Campanulas that are
sending up fresh blossoms ; but wherever they
have tossed themselves to, they seem equally
beautiful. The dry, hot summer has suited this
plant to perfection ; last season, being damp and
much cooler, it did not flower at all. Another
good dry weather plant is Zauschneria califor-
nica. Its blossoms are bright scarlet, small, but
borne in great profusion. Its sucker-like roots
increase rapidly, pushing out on every side, and
the plant soon becomes a large tuft. It can be
readily divided at any season. Plumbago Lar-
pentse is in a sunny nook, with cool peat mould
at its root. This is its most beautiful stage
when the foliage changes with shortening days
to a deep crimson hue, while the sapphire flowers
are still in perfection. The winter Jessamine,
forced on by the warmth, has blossoms ere the
leaves have fallen. This Jessamine and the
Schizostylis coccinea flowering together make a
fine autumn group. The lack of moisture has
stunted the Schizostylis, for though in bloom
its flowers are small. Two beautiful-tinted foliage
plants — Shortia galacifolia and Galax aphylla —
are now at their best. The latter has leaves of
claret colour. It is planted in leaf mould and
loam in a deep rock fissure, so that although in
the sunniest aspects its roots have been kept
cool and moist during the summer heat. Shortia
galacifolia is in a shaded position, with peat and
leaf mould mixed in the soil. It, too, has its
roots under a stone, while the leaves form
a crimson rosette, but as yet it has not
bloomed with me. In both of these American
plants the foliage is persistent. Hypericum
repens is still in blossom, and the changeful
foliage as it passes to red and russet-brown
makes it even prettier in autumn than in
spring.

The golden passing away of Solomon's Seal
makes a pretty group in a shaded corner,
along with the Osmunda Fern that is putting
on its russet robe. Among these we have just

been planting Daffodils in clumps that will
awake earlier, and roots of the Star of Bethlehem
(Ornithogalum umbellatum) have been added to
give a silver gleam as the Daffodils fade. After
many failures, Daphne cneorum is at last con-
tented with me. Planted deeply in peaty soil
and some pieces of rock set around the ba.se of
the stem, its roots have been kept cool during
the drought, and thus it has been able to form
plenty of fresh shoots each ready for its rosy
crown of blossom in spring-time. Once well
started, the spreading growth can be layered all
round, and the plant thus assisted to carpet the
ground with its fragrant garlands of blossom.
The Shield Saxifrage (S. peltata) has withered
away without its usual autumn glow, but the
Megaseas have borne the sunshine unharmed,
and the border of them around the Periwinkle
bank is full of bronze and crimson leafage. A
clump of Pulmonaria officinalis torn to pieces in
June, and planted under the shade of evergreens,
has completely covered the ground with its
large, silvery blotched leaves. It is too coarse
growing for a choice border, but any wild bit of
ground that it can take possession of is just the
place for it, and very welcome are the clusters
of pink blossom that begin to peep out with the
first warm days of January. Mignonette, the
flower of the desert, has been especially fine
this summer. Nothing can be more delightful
than the fragrance with which it now lades the
still autumn air, and is wafted across the lawn
with every passing breath of wind. It is need-
ful to make a sowing in June as well as early
spring, as it soon becomes exhausted through
seed-bearing, and the later sowing comes in
sweet and fresh for autumn days.

In the walled garden Solanum jasminoidcs,
though cut down by winter frosts to within a
foot of the ground, has re-climbed the wall and
flung itself over to the other side, bringing with
it trails of white clustered blossoms. This is
usually a greenhouse plant, but, given a warm
dry position, itseems quite contented out of doors
The Myrtles have suffered much from lack of
moisture. They have simply refused to grow and
are just in the same condition as in spring, but
Coronilla glauca has become rampant and also
flung out long arms of blossom. The Magnolia
on the hottest spot of the wall has made good
growth. These Lily trees that come to us from
east and west, from China and Japan, from
North America, and also from the Himalayas are
impatient of removal, and take a long time to
recover any root-disturbance. The best time for
transplanting is in spring, just as growth begins.
When moved in autumn, the fleshy roots if in-
jured will lie rotting in the ground all winter.
No garden sufficiently favourable in situation
should be without one of these glorious trees,
where the Lilies of the pool seem to have been
uplifted from their peaceful home, where they
could wake and sleep on the tranquil bosom of
the shining water, to be set henceforth amid
the warm and glossy leaves as perfume cups to
scent the passing gale.

September 29. — To-day friends have been
with me who have recently come to live in a
new house with surrounding land, asking how
they should commence laying out the grounds
and forming a garden. Now to those who are
fortunate enough to have the planning of a
garden for themselves, I would say let them not
think that there are any hard-and-fast rules as
to beds and borders, and laying out walks and
terraces, and plots of Grass, and planting orna-
mental shrubs. The first thing in forming a
garden is to take a general outlook, and see
what the situation most readily and easily lends
itself to, and then to set to work and do what-
ever seems fittest and best in keeping with the

extent of the grounds and with the dwelling-
house itself, and what afterwards will give least
trouble to keep in order. One general har-
monious idea perceived without effort, and yet
rendered interesting from the variety of detail,
which gradually becomes evident to the eye, is
what I think we should try to aim at. Walks
are frequently so meandering, and flowers
either so mixed or scattered, that the one
precious thing a garden should ever have to
offer us, rest for mind and spirit, is wanting.
If it be possible, let us have in our garden a
cool and shady walk for summer's hottest days
and meditative hours ; such a walk as in winter
will afford us shelter from the cold blast, and
where we will ever find the earliest Primrose of
the year. An extent of well-kept Grass, be it
large or be it small, should be always present in
a garden, were it only for its delicious fra-
grance during summer-time when freshly mown,
not to speak of the cool velvet carpet it forms
to tread upon. Many narrow walks are a
weariness, for of all places it is just in them
that weeds most heartily rejoice, and much
labour is wasted keeping them in order. And
now as to the placing and arranging of plants.
" Art in the garden " may appear to some a
false phrase. They think that Nature is su-
preme, and that the less she is interfered with
the better. In a sense this is no doubt true,
and Nature when left to herself is ever beauti-
ful, and nothing we can do can approach the
magic touch by which she decks the hills and
dales, clothing the mountain side with the
sturdy Oak or dark Pine tree forest, and cast-
ing a mantle of purple around the more rugged
heights, where only the close-glowing Heather
can withstand the rude winter storms, while
through the valleys soft pasturage runs and
creeps into verdant pl;^s.

Yes ! Nature left alone works with a master
hand, and if we would do any good work in the
garden we must read in her grand, open book
and listen to her teaching in the woods and dells
and by the streamlet's bank. There she sows
and plants ; in the garden it is we who plant and
sow. Therein lies the great difference, and here
it is that "art "steps in and enters by the garden
gate. For what is all art but the sense of and
intense feeling for the beautiful, which, having
passed through the human niiud and receiving
from the soul the divine or immortal touch, de-
sires to create itself afresh by expression what
may, in other words, be called the finer adjust-
ment of speech or delineation to that which
answers within ? Now the true artist, when
painting from Nature, does not sit down and
copy every leaf on the tree before him and paint
things just as they are, for art is never imita-
tion. No ; he becomes imbued with the beauty
of the scene, and then he endeavours as best he
can to tell us his sense of that beauty and not
mere facts about Nature ; and just in proportion
to the truth of his pourtrayal of that sense does
he become a good artist, and what he omits, or,
rather, what he refrains from painting and
merely suggests, will be a most important part
of his picture ; for this critical faculty of choice
or selection is one of the subtlest in art. And
herein I think is the explanation of the old
Greek adage, that " the half is more than the
whole " so contrary to the mathematical axiom
that "the whole is greater than its part." A
poet with this Greek feeling has sung to us the
same thought— " Heard songs are sweet, but
those unheard are sweeter still."

But what has all this to say to gardening may
be naturally asked. Well, as the scattered
flowers by the mossy bank, the woodland way,
the hillside slope or rocky gorge, are pictures
ready for the painter's brush, for the poet's song,

240

THE GARDEN.

[APiiiL 6, 1895.

or the soft dreams of music, so, (oo, should
our gardens be full of pictures, and our flowers
placed and arranged in the most beautiful way
we ca'\ imagine. One reason why the bedding-
out system is now giving way to the finer grow-
ing Mul grouping of hardy plants is that it was
so uninteresting. Every garden was a copy,
more or loss, of its neighbour. No garden ex-
pressed it- owner's individual love for plants,
either in choice of different flowers or in modes
of growing 01 arranging them.

But the greatest defect of all in the bedding-
out system was that you could see it all at once.
1 led after bed of colour, row after row of dif-
ferent hue, all spread before the eye at the same
moment, nothing withheld, nothing reserved.

Now, given a good border of old-fashioned
flowers sufficiently wide for grouping and suffi-
ciently long for variety, the surprises and change
of flower pictures as one passes along, step by
step, are truly astonishing ; and the most de-
lightful part is, that these flower pictures alter in
form and colour every few weeks of the year,
and that there is not a day in winter even, save
when the ground is frozen or clad with snow,
that one cannot gather a bunch of blossoms fair
to see. The charm in a border like this is its
mystery and expectancy ; you cannot see it all
at once. Many of its prettiest groupings are
hidden for the moment and you come upon them
slowly, only seeing at first far-off glints as you
pass along.

To plant such a border effectually one ought
to study Nature's grouping, and notice how when
left alone the flowers form little colonies. This
arises from the original plant shedding its seed
around, so that fresh young plants are always
rising up round the parents, which after a little
time gradually exhaust the soil and perish,
leaving their progeny Roving slowly onwards.
So we will find that a good bold group or two
of one kind of plant will look much better than
repeating the flower constantly at intervals
throughout the garden. L. A. L.

(To be continued.)

always have a batch of young plants. These
may be raised from cuttings, which root readily
even in the open ground if shaded from bright
sun, whilst another excellent method of keeping
up a stock is to take up and divide the plants

sized pots and fill in the soil. The root cuttings
should be buried their full length, leaving the
upper surface uncovered. A good way of staying
evaporation is to plunge the cutting pot in one
two sizes larger, fill round with sand or cocoa-nut
fibre, and cover with a piece of glass. Under these

as soon as they have ceased to bloom, replant- condition8 growth will issue from the apex in a

In a well-managed , {ew weekg._tE. j. l

ing them in another spot.

garden there should be a reserve plot where
stocks of this and kindred flowers requiring
similar treatment might be raised. With such
an aid much could be done to reduce the num-
ber of tender plants still put out in gardens
and show the best flowers of each season in the
most perfect way. There are several distinct
forms of the double Rocket varying in colour
from pure white to lilac, all of them pretty,
sweetly scented, and worthy of the best care
and culture.

Arnebia echioides (the Prophet Flower).—
This interesting perennial may now be increased

Flower Garden.

ROCKETS.

The accompanying illustration is a pretty re-
minder that the sweet old Rocket, a flower most
of us have known from our earliest days, still
has its admirers, although it is all too scarce in
gardens generally. The time when Rockets
bloom is a lovely one, for the early summer
flowers are gay iu great variety. Then especially
are the simple roadside cottage plots so bright
and sweet, when Rockets spriug out from car-
pets of Pinks and Pansies and lift up their tall
spikes to meet the drooping clusters of the
Monthly or Maiden's Blush Rose. Happily
this flower is much loved by cottagers and it
will linger long among them, but in larger
gardens we seek it in vain — it is neglected.
This neglect arises not from lack of apprecia-
tion of its beauty and fragrance, but because,
although in every respect a hardy plant, it does
not go on growing and flowering year after year.
It wants a little special attention, and this to
be given at the right time. If left to grow and
extend as most hardy things do, it resents
such treatment and soon disappears. It should
not be included among the true perennials, as
it cannot be treated like them, and yet there
are many pretty ways in which it could be
grown. The essential thing is to always have
young plants. Although occasionally a group
may stand a second season, the safe way is to

Border with old double Rockets. Engraved for The Garden
from a photograph sent by Mr. 8. W. Fitzhcrbert, Lans-
combe House, Torquay.

by those desirous of adding to their present
stock. In average winters by the end of February
the plant has again started into growth. Like
many of the rarer perennials, this cannot always be
divided to advantage, so that in this instance
root cuttings are best resorted to. It is true also
that the plant comes from seed, but in seasons
like that of 1894 seeds were not abundant ;
indeed, at the best of times the capsules onlj'
contain one seed each. These seeds are very
hard and germinate slowly, so that it is best to
employ both methods where a stock is desired.
The chief advantage of root cuttings in such a
case is that plants are more quickly obtained, as
the growth of these root pieces may be hastened
by placing them in a close warm greenhouse with
a temperature of 50" or 60°. Lift one strong
clump from the ground and secure as many roots
as can be spared. Having cut into short lengths,
place them around the inside of some medium-

Primula obconica.— I enclose with this note
flowers of this Primula in which you will see a
great difference. One, the smallest flowered, is
the true type and the other two are variations, in
which the flowers are much larger, and some of
them show a dark carmine shaded eye which helps
to make them attractive. Some time ago an idea
was expressed in your pages that this Primula was
being improved, and, on the face of it, it looks so,
but 1 think we shall not get much further in this
way, for though we always get a good proportion
of these larger and more highly coloured flowers
from each batch of seedlings, we cannot depend
upon them, and there is little or no advance on the
best flowers of former years. This is unfortunate,
as they are just as free-flowering as the
type and more attractive, but I find
them very shy seed-bearers, and invari-
ably have to go back to a plant that has
borne flowers of the typical size and
colour for most of the seed. — J. C. Tal-
lack.

Daffodils in the Grass. — The warm
sunny days of last month brought the
Daffodils up rapidly, and on the 25th
the Tenby variety was blooming abun-
dantly, tall and handsome as before.
Two special tufts were mentioned last
year as producing sixteen flowers each,
the result of two bulbs planted eight
years previously. This year one has
eighteen flowers, the other sixteen. The
Scotch Daffodil had a few flowers out at
the same date, also Narcissus nanus and
N. minor.

Alstrcemeria seed.— About a year
ago I sowed some seven or eight seeds of
the above, which I had kept for several
years past in an ordinary paper packet.
A few weeks later several seedlings ap-
peared, and, as I imagined, each seed
had grown. In December, 1894, when
sharing the plants with a neighbour I
found that while the larger plants had
grown and produced large fleshy tubers
several inches long, threeof the seeds had
only just broken into growth. These
latter, strangely enough, were singularly
alike in the growth they had made, each
with its tiny shoot only about a quarter
of an inch long and a root quite half an
inch in length. Thus in the first in-
stance the seedlings appeared as quickly
as could have been expected from new
seeds, while the latter remained dor-
mant for many months. Some seeds
are by no means impaired in vitality by
keeping them, and will germinate as
quickly after ten years as though quite
new. But to ensure this 1 think one
condition is necessary, namely, a comparatively
air-tight vessel or package and uniform tempera-
ture.— E. J.

CROCUSES AT LONG DITTON.

The forms of Crocus aureus and C. vernus are the
familiar kinds one sees in most gardens, but many
other species embracing pretty shades of colour de-
serve extended cultivation. At the present time
(March 13) they are a pretty feature in Jfessrs.
Barr's nursery at Long Ditton, where the collection
is a very large one. Owing to the prolonged frcst
having kept the winter-blooming species at rest,
those which in an average winter open their flowers
in January are now blooming along with those
whose season is the present. C. Imperati, for
example, often flowers at midwinter, but is only now
in full beauty. It is a most distinct Crocus when
closed or open, the closed flowers being beautifully

April 6, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

241

feathered externally with dark purple, and when
open in the sun they are of a clear mauve or lilac
shade. C. biflorus varies in several pretty ways,
and one most distinct form of it, called
has a fawn-coloured base, but when
is of a pale lavender hue. Another
biflorus, named Weldeni, is deeply
with purple externally through the
of the flower and white when open

estriatus,
expanded
form of
feathered
lower half

C. biflorus Pestalozza?, an Italian form and the
smallest of this lot, is wonderfully free blooming,
each bulb throwing up a cluster of several flowers,
which, though so minute, have a charming effect.
In colour they are creamy white. C. Balansse is
a striking species, the buds when they first ap-
pear being of a deep maroon hue, shading to
bronzy yellow as they expand. C. Tommasin-
ianus'in great quantity was wonderfully profuse
in blossom, and a long bed of it alone produced a
fine effect. The flowers are large, of a deep
purple-blue externally, shading to the palest
mauve as they expand. A kind so free and beau-
tiful as this ought to be plentiful in our gardens.
C. chrysanthus, a yellow-flowered species, showB
much variation, and several most distinct forms
have been selected, one with a large clear yellow
flower exquisitely scented, others curiously fea-
thered and stained with brown externally, whilst
one named albidus is a pure cream-white with a
few feathered markings at its base. The stigma
of the flower in these varieties is almost scarlet.
C. Suterianus, clear rich yellow ; C. stellaris,
bright yellow, with feathered lines of dark brown :
and C. Olivieri, deep orange-yellow, with short
rounded petals, are all distinct and desirable
species.

Many of these Crocuses might be easily natural-
ised about our gardens, and being wild forms
would show less deterioration than the named
garden forms of C. vernus, which sometimes get
weak when left to themselves. Little groups in
choice spots, especially in the rock garden, would
greatly add to the interest and beauty of the
early days of spring. A. H.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
PROPAGATING. — When penning the notes on pro-
pagating that appeared on page 198 I did not
know that the recommendation to make a careful
inspection of the stock, with the view to find
substitutes for any portion of the same that might
happen to be scarce, would be very applicable
this year. In many places where provision for the
accommodation of a large quantity of tender
bedding stuff is not of the best heavy losses are
chronicled, and the experience is not uncommon to
find only a very few plants left of some particular
variety of which a large quantity was required.
Under such circumstances the gardener is for-
tunate who is able to fall back on a good batch of
such herbaceous plants as are suitable for the
formal garden, but, failing these, no time should
be lost in seed sowing. It is full late for this
work, but if a little neat is available, Petunias,
Verbenas, Phlox Drummondi, Golden Pyrethrum
and Lobelias will not be long coming up, and a little
extra attention must be given to push them on as
fast as possible from the seed-pans. The Sweet
Tobacco again will come up and develop quickly
into good plants if these are pricked out of the
ssed-pans as soon as they can be handled.
Tuberous Begonias are likely to be in great re-
quest, and if a batch of seed was sown as ad-
vised in January, the seedlings will by this time
be nice little plants, with the corms rapidly swell-
ing. They will make a nice display in mixed
beds if the certain dissimilarity in colour, height
and habit inevitable in seedlings is not objected to.
If a good stock of bedding Tropreolums is to hand,
they can be propagated freely (good plants being
very quickly obtained) to take the place of scarlet
Pelargoniums. Much may also be effected with
the best and most enduring of the annuals that
can presently be sown out of doors where they
are to remain, such as Linum grandiflorum,
Tagetes, the new Linaria and the white and purple
Malope. Here alone are five different shades of

colour that can be relied on to last well through
the summer. A season like the present, when the
loss of tender bedding stuff is causing consider-
able anxiety, should act as a strong incentive
towards the increased cultivation of hardy plants.
Given plenty of Pinks, Carnations, tufted Pansies,
Pentstemons, Pyrethrums, Antirrhinums, Spirreas,
herbaceous Lobelias and the best of the annuals, a
garden can be made very bright without the
trouble of filling houses and pits for eight or nine
months with so-called bedding plants.

Carnations. — These have come safely through
the winter and are now fairly on the move ; a few
old plants left over from last year have suc-
cumbed, but in the case of young plants no loss
has to be chronicled. I notice a statement made
recently, in answer to a query as to which can
be styled true border Carnations, that there was
no distinction ; all might be fairly classed as such.
I do not quite follow the conclusion ; it is certain
that there is a wide difference in varieties both in
constitution, in general habit, and in the freedom
with which flower is produced, and only those
that can be classed A 1 in this respect should, to
my thinking, come under the heading of true
border sorts. I know of a few novelties acquired
occasionally, some by no means came up to these
requirements ; they were a long way behind the
old standard varieties that have always given
satisfaction. A feeling of envy is engendered at
the contemplation of the photograph in The
Garden (March 23). A bed of this size and tho-
roughly well furnished must be very beautiful.
It seems that individual blooms of Ketton Rose
last longer than those of most varieties, but this
may be due to the retention of the perfect flower
right through to the decaying stage owing to
the total absence of splitting. This variety is a
little longer getting established than some of the
more fleshy succulent sorts, and, together with
Countess of Paris, is put down about a fortnight
earlier than the main batch. Where Carnation
beds are not already mulched, they will be all the
better for a coating of spent Mushroom or peat
moss manure, especially if a bright sun with dry-
ing winds is likely to prevail.

Window and balcony boxes. — If materials for
these are ready, they may be planted at any time,
especially if an early display is expected and a
certain amount of hardening off is required.
Cob;ta scandens sown in warmth in January is
the very best climbing plant that can be grown,
and may be planted at the back of boxes for that
purpose. The free - flowering Fuchsias, Helio-
trope, Begonia semperflorens, and Chelsea Gem
Pelargonium are good plants for filling up the
remainder of the box with, and as trailers use
the Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, the blue and white
trailing Campanula, and Ball of Fire Tropaolum.
Somewhat similar plants can be used for window
boxes, and in addition Petunias that rank among
the very best window box plants. If the varie-
gation introduced in the Pelargonium is somewhat
stiff and formal, a substitute may be found in the
shape of the fine bright-foliaged Eulalia japonica
variegata, that is one of the plants that can be
put in almost any position, and that will form an
admirable companion to the Fuchsias, Begonias,
and Heliotrope. Plants intended for vases may be
pushed along so as to secure good stocky stuff by
the time it is safe to plant. I think the practice
of using one class of plants for each vase except
perhaps something at the extreme edge as a trailer
is to be recommended. Thus Fuchsias of drooping
habit, as Mrs. Marshall, Beauty of Summer and
Wave of Life, make beautiful vase plants. Main
shoots may be supported to make a full centre and
then the plants allowed to grow as they like So, too,
if Ivy-leaf Pelargoniums are used a few stiff Pea
twigs can be inserted that the plants may run up
to a foot or rather more in height, when they may
be left to their own devices, with the exception
that as they ramble a little stopping may be
necessary if the plants are likely to get ragged.
Where things of more formal habit or upright
growth, as Pelargoniums or Marguerites, are used
outside, plants as trailers are absolutely essential,
and those recommended for similar positions in

window and balcony boxes can be used, the green
and golden forms of the well-known Creeping
Jenny being also capital trailers. In the list of
subjects of drooping habit recommended above I
omitted to mention tuberous Begonias. Seedlings
discarded from the beds because of this habit can
always, provided they are free and vigorous, be
saved for vase work, the very pendulous form,
which is an objection in the one case, being a pleas-
ing and welcome feature in the other.

Hardy shrcbs. — In answer to Mr. Smith's
stipulation that perfectly hardy as opposed to
crippled shrubs should be prominently named as
having come safely through the February of 1895,
I may mention in addition to the common Holly
the Minorca Box and Osmanthus ilicifolius. I
fear, however, in a season like the present one can
hardly help referring to many plants that have
suffered from the fact that in many cases one has
hardly ever experierced anything of the kind
before. Many trees, the conifers especially, are
so disfigured, that it is a question if they will ever
recover. E. Bitrrell.

Claremont.

Iris sin dj arensis. — This, one of the newer ad-
ditions to the Iris family, is clearly allied to
I. caucasica, having the same characteristic
growth and foliage. It is an early flowerer, the
first flowers expanding only a little later than
those of I. reticulata. In colour they are deep
blue, shading to pale sky blue, and possess a
delicate scent.

Jacks.— These are large-growing, robust, single
Carnations hawked by the costermongers under
this name, and finding a ready sale because of
their gross and robust appearance. When they
bloom they are, of course, disappointing, but they
fill up the garden and they are cheap. A few
days ago I saw at Feltham a piece of 50,000 Jacks,
and it was computed that at least 38,000 of them
were dead. Planted out as seedlings last summer
in somewhat richly manured ground, they made a
most robust growth, and by Christmas were soft
and sappy, showing the presence in the leaves
of the spot, a brown fungoid-like growth that
destroys the foliage. Then came the intense
frost, with the result above named. Many of the
12,000 presumed to be alive are so injured that
they are not saleable. But the enormous demand
for Jacks is shown by the fact that one grower
alone grows quite 50,000. — R. D.

Iris susiana. — " R. D.'s" experiences (p. 209)
with the above are not exceptional, special treat-
ment being required for the successful culture of
the Cushion (Oncocyclus) section of Irises, to which
division I. susiana belongs. After flowering a
period of absolute rest is necessary, which in this
country during an ordinary summer it is impos-
sible to ensure without artificial means. I have
grown Iris susiana and flowered it fairly well in
mounds of soil raised a few inches above the
ground level. The soil, a sandy loam, was made
quite firm and the rhizome planted an inch below
the surface. After flowering had ceased, bell-
glasses were placed over the plants until the com-
mencement of October. These prevented any
direct rain from coming in contact with the
plants, and the mound being raised about 6 inches
above the rest of the bed kept the soil about the
roots from becoming waterlogged even in heavy
rains, though doubtless at such times some
amount of moisture rose from beneath. In 1888,
after the dry summer of the preceding year,
these Irises flowered very well ; in other seasons
they flowered fairly, thus showing that a dry
state of the surrounding and underlying soil is
necessary. The roots are perfectly hardy, and
during the winter months do not need protection
except from stagnant moisture, and this is pre-
vented by the elevation at which they are planted.
" R. D." must not expect success at the first, for
all the Cushion Irises are very impatient of root-
disturbance and may probably refuse to bloom the
first year. I have never grown these Irises in
pots, but there is no reason why " R. D." should
not continue to try this method of culture, remem-

242

THE GARDEN

[April 6, 1895.

bering that he must roast the rhizomes during the
summer and give plenty of water, it being under-
stood that the drainage is good, while growth is
taking place.— S. W. F.

Orchard and Fruit Garden

HARDY FRUIT PROSPECTS.
In this district things look anything but cheer-
ful for an abundant fruit season. Strawberry
plants are very bad indeed, as during the
early part of February when we were having
such cold nights the sun was bright during the
daytime, which soon melted the little snow that
fell, leaving the plants exposed to the full
rigour of the winter's blasts. The consequence
is there is not a green leaf left on many of the
varieties, and some of them appear to be killed
entirely. Although we have had a week of
spring-like weather they do not show the least
signs of life. The only plants that present any-
thing like a respectable appearance are those
which were planted out of small pots last
August, and though the leaves of these are for
the most part killed, the crowns seem plump
and are swelling, thus showing the more vigor-
ous the plants the better they were able to re-
sist the cold. Plants, too, on warm borders
that had only stood one winter seem to have
succumbed to the severity of the weather.
Such varieties as Anna de Rothschild, A. F.
Barron, Scarlet Queen, and many of the newer
kinds seem to have suffered the most. It
will be interesting to learn how others have
fared in this respect. At no time had we in
this district more than 2 inches of snow, and
that soon melted in the bright sun even though
it was freezing in the shade. Some plants of
Loxford Hall Seedling on a north border seem
to have withstood the frost far better than
those on the south borders and in the open
quarters, as these were covered with snow till
the thaw set in. Doubtless most things will
have suffered more in the south than they have
done in the midlands and farther north on
account of the small quantity of snow that fell
in the southern districts and the bright sun
experienced during the daytime. Raspberries
in the open quarters seem to have all their
buds killed, especially on strong canes that
were not thoroughly ripened. We have had
this occur before when scarcely a bud on
those in sunny positions made a start, the
canes having to be cut back to induce them to
push from the bottom buds, while those on a
north border have grown away freely. It seems
to me that the constant freezing and thawing
have more effect on plants than a long-continued
spell of frost. I have often noticed that vege-
tables on a south border have suffered more
than those on the other aide of the wall, for
while the one remained during the continuation
of the frost below freezing point, the other
through the action of the sun became thawed
every day. This season has been no exception in
that respect, for a patch of Turnips in the open
quarters was all killed, while those on a north
border have withstood the frost remarkably well.
In the north the weather is certainly not so hot so
early in the season, for during the last few days
the thermometer in the day has reached nearly
80° in the sun, while in the valley it has run
down to near freezing point most nights. Such
weather must have a telling effect on plant life.
Reverting again to fruit, Gooseberry bushes
have suffered much from the attack of small
birds, which are very numerous in this district.
Many are quite denuded of their buds and will
have to make a fresh growth from the old

wood. It seems curious, but while the severe
weather hsted they did not attempt to touch
them ; it is only since the frost went that they
have made such sad havoc. Plums and Dam-
sons have suffered much in the same way,
scarce a flower-bud being left. Pears so far
are looking well, but I fear both Apricots
and Cherries have suffered somewhat through
the severity of the weather, particularly the
former, for on cold heavy land such as ours the
trees make strong wood, which does not always
become perfectly ripened, and when severe
weather sets in the gross shoots are often killed.
Figs that were not covered present a pitiable
sight, for the young wood is entirely killed, so
that a season's growth will have to be made
before they recover themselves. H. C. P.

Buxted Pari, Sussex.

APPLE WARNER'S SEEDLING.

Tins is a really good kind and one that should
be grown in all gardens where late cooking varie-
ties of the best quality are required. The value

Apple Warner's Seedling. From a photograph
sent by Mr. Norman Blake, Bedford.

of late cooking Apples is often overlooked, and
for private gardens, if some late kinds were
substituted for those that come fit for use in the
autumn, it would be a great gain, as we have a
wealth of fruit at the season named and but a
limited number in April or later. Although it
may be thought we have abundance of imported
fruits, I do not hesitate to affirm there are none
equal in cooking qualities to the one named.
The subject of this note must not be confounded
with that excellent variety Warner's King, a kind
which has got quite a dozen synonyms, showing
at a glance how popular it is. I am not suffi-

ciently acquainted with its history to know
whether the same raiser introduced Warner's
Seedling also. Probably he did, as the growth
of the two are much alike ; but the one is an
autumn fruit, being at its best in October and
November ; whereas the seedling keeps well late
in the spring and is of splendid cooking quality.
Indeed, Mr. Warner gives the seedling first
place for quality and keeping over other kinds.
This fruit first came under my notice at the
great Apple congress held at Chiswick in Octo-
ber, 1883, Mr. Warner, of Broomfield, Chelms-
ford, showing this variety, which was much
noted by fruit growers as a valuable culinary
fruit, and being grown on poor loam on a wet,
clay subsoil showed its free-growing qualities.
The fruit in question was gathered too early to
test its quality, as late Apples should be allowed
to remain on the trees as long as possible. The
fruits are large, of good shape, greenish yellow
at this season, but in autumn when gathered of
a much darker shade of green and slightly flushed
with red, hard and solid, with a brisk flavour.
They retain their acid flavour well into spring.
The trees bear well in any form, excellent re-
sults having been obtained by grafting them on
healthy stocks which produce worthless kinds.
As the season of grafting is close at hand, those
who require late fruits should give this a trial,
as it is a splendid cropper. So far I have not
seen the least sign of canker or disease in either
bush or standard trees.

As regards cropping qualities, this variety
much resembles Bramley's Seedling, and is
equally meritorious, but Bramley's is quite dis-
tinct, being flatter in shape and having more
colour. 1 name Bramley's Seedling, as I have
seen it shown as Warner's, and vice versa, and
the mistake is readily made with kinds similar
in size, quality, and keeping properties. The
better-known Warner's King, or, as it is often
called, Nelson's Glory and in many coun-
ties D. T. Fish, is probably one of the most
popular kitchen Apples grown. It is a great
favourite with exhibitors, and at the Chiswick
conference noted above was staged in 150 col-
lections, the fruits in many cases being very
fine. I feel sure that the newer seedling will
prove equally valuable when its good keeping
properties are considered, as, like Warner's
King, it is equally prolific, does well in most
soils and situations, and, taking into considera-
tion its freedom from disease or canker, I
should place it among the most useful kitchen
Apples. Although we have so many varieties,
there are none more worthy of a place even in
a limited selection than the above.

G. Wythes.

Colour in Apples. — My experience coincides
with that of " E. M." as to the influences of iron
in the soil on the colour of Apples. Our soil here
has a large natural supply, and even the greenest
varieties put on a little colour, but another factor
not mentioned by " E. M." is wind. In 1891 we
had much wind in this part, and the colour of all
Apples was much deeper than usual. Such
varieties as Bramley's Seedling, Ecklinville Seed-
ling, Stirling Castle, and others were beautifully
tinged with red — in fact, more highly coloured
than in the hot, bright, sunny season of 1893.
The stock also exercises an influence on the colour
of the fruit. The most remarkable instance of
this that I ever saw was at the Guildhall show
held in London some years ago. While judging
some nurserymen's collections of fruit, my col-
leagues and I came upon a basket of Apples
named Warner's King of a lovely red colour
which was so rich, that if it had not been for the
size and true Warner's King shape we should
have put it down as wrongly named. After the
show was opened I sought out the exhibitor

April 6, 1895 J

THE GARDEN.

243

(Mr. J. Watkins, Pomona Nurseries, Hereford)
and inquired the cause of the extraordinary
colour. The answer was, that having some trees
of Red Bietingheimer that failed to crop well, he
cut the head off and grafted with Warner's King
with the result stated. The expert fruit grower,
Mr. Crump, Madresfield Court Gardens, turns out
something like 2000 trees per year for Lord
Beauchamp's tenants, and he informed me a year
or two ago that he selected pips from the most
coloured Apples for raising stocks. Those who
have seen the well-grown trees he turns out and
the produce they yield will agree with me that no
more highly coloured fruit is grown in this
country, and as proving the influence of the stock,
the same finely coloured fruit is produced on trees
sent out to his lordship's tenants in different
counties. — W. G. C.

Pear Beurre d'Aremberg. — I was glad to see
the illustration at page 111 of that very excellent
winter Pear Beurr6 d'Aremberg. At Holme Lacy
the trees that succeeded the best were worked on
the Pear stock and grown against a south wall. It
was, therefore, something of a surprise to me to
read in the descriptive note at page 111 that this
Pear succeeds well whether woiktd on the Pear
or Quince stock. What is other growers' ex-
perience with this Pear on the Quince stock? My
experience is decidedly against it. Is it also a
Pear for standard culture ? It might bear freely,
but the fruit would be very small, unless in excep-
tionally favourable districts. At Holme Lacy the
fruits grew individually larger than generally
seen. I remember the late Mr. Haycock was much
impressed with them, and asked me to let him
have some grafts. Against an east wall, although
1 he tree fruited freely, the fruit never ripened, also
being small. — A. Young.

SEEDLING APRICOTS.
The branches on seedling Apricots certainly
do not commence dying away so soon as on trees
raised from buds or grafts. At the same time
there is a slight disadvantage in depending on
seedlings, because they are a year or two longer
iu coming into bearing, and the only way to
make the trees fruit early is to lift them
every year and replant again in rather poor
soil. This unfortunately prevents them making
a strong growth, but one has to bear with
this to secure an early fruiting tree. I do
not wish to make it appear that as the trees get
older some of the branches do not die away
mysteriously as on grafted trees. What I wish
to show is that seedlings hold out longer, and
after they get well established they fruit as
freely and retain a greater vigour than grafted
plants. At the present time I have a fruiting
tree of the sort known as Large Early. This
tree is seven years old, and the branches reach
to a height of 10 feet on a wall with a south
aspect. A more vigorous or productive ex-
ample no one could wish for, as at present there
is not the slightest indication of any of the
branches dying away. From previous experi-
ence in this direction I should not like to say
that such a thing will not take place as the tree
gets older.

Having dealt with seedling Apricots in two
gardens where the character of the soil is quite
opposite, one being badly drained, with a
heavy subsoil, the other a fairly heavy loam
2 feet in depth resling on a bed of gravel,
I feel quite convinced that the latter soil is
best suited to the Apricot, as the plants fruit
earlier, the leaves are larger and of a deeper
green. To raise the plants I place the stones
singly in 5-inch pots early in the spring and
bring on the plants in a greenhouse tempera-
ture, planting them out close to a warm wall in
July. At the end of the autumn the young
plants are 18 inches to 2 feet high. In the spring
I cut them down to within 9 inches of the

ground ; the next year I select five of the best-
placed shoots to form the groundwork of the
tree. At the end of the second year's growth
the trees are replanted. After this I never prune
more than is necessary to secure sufficient growth
to fill up the wall space, as I am satisfied the
less Apricot trees are cut about the better.
There is this difference, however, between seed-
ling and grafted trees, that the former do better
when root-pruned, and will even then make
wonderfully vigorous growth when they are
grown in a favourable soil. The Moor Park
variety is the last I should think of increasing
in this or any other way. At the same time I
have found that seedling plants remain longer
healthy than when they are obtained in the
ordinary way. I have had budded plants lose
nearly all their branches the first year after
planting, but seedlings invariably go on much
longer. The Moor Park is certainly the most
disappointing in that way. So far as my expe-
rience has gone, the Peach Apricot and Large
Early are the most reliable sorts to raise from
seed. J. C. Ci.akke.

GRAFTING ORCHARD FRUIT TREES.
The grafting season having again arrived, it may
possibly be of interest, and also profitable to
orchard owners, to remind them of the folly and
waste of allowing young, vigorous, but worthless
trees to keep on cumbering the ground, when
they might be made to produce good crops of ex-
cellent fruit in a few years by grafting them with
select sorts. There are thousands of poor useless
Apple, Pear, and Plum trees that never bear a
decent crop of fruit, and probably never will if
permitted to go on as at present, and it is de-
cidedly to the interests of the owner and the
nation that all such trees be made to bear good
fruit and prove a profitable investment to the
planter or his heirs. In almost every part of the
count ry a reliable man can be engaged to graft
trees at a fixed wage per day, or so much each
graft. In this district the rule is to pay a penny
tor each graft inserted. Grafting is such easy
and simple work, that any man of ordinary in-
telligence can soon learn how to do it. Many
practical men advise sawing off the limbs some
little time prior to inserting the grafts, asserting
that success is more assured thereby. This
theory, I believe, is not founded on actual fact, as
I have for years sawn limbs off, and grafted at
once with scions cut at the same time from other
trees near, rarely having a graft die. If grafting
wax is employed, the work is performed more
expeditiously, but, failing that, any good clay,
mixed with about one-third of horse droppings,
well mixing the whole together, will answer al-
most equally as well. Some tie Moss over the
clay to prevent cracking in hot weather, but if
the clay has been properly prepared, there is
little danger of that occurring. The following
are good Apples for grafting on standard trees,
and may be depended upon to produce heavy
crops of fruit valuable for home consumption or
market. Kitchen: Bismarck, Bramley's Seed-
ling, Warner's King, Beauty of Kent, Mere de
Menage, Winter Hawthornden, Striped Beiutin,
New Bess Pool, Tower of Glamis, Maltster,
Allen's Everlasting, Wormsley Pippin, Egremont
Russet, Uuke of Devonshire, and Lord Burghley.

There are hundreds of young Pear trees that
only produce fruit for perry making that might
with advantage be grafted with such varieties as
Doyenne du Cornice, Louise Bonne de Jersey,
Beurre Hardy, Marie Louise d'Uccle, Souvenir
du Congres, Beurre Diel, Beuri(S d'Amanlis,
Clapp's Favourite, Conseiller de la Cour, Gilogil,
Catillac, and Verulam. The three last varieties
are excellent for stewing, and as that useful class
of Pears is becoming more in demand annually, it
will pay to bestow more attention to it. In some
places that fine late Plum, Pond's Seedling,
makes splendid trees, but fails to bear freely. In
such cases the heads should be sawn off and Belle

de Louvain put on ; some trees worked in that
way have never missed cropping profusely for
some years. Other excellent Plums for standard
trees are Monarch, Grand Duke, Cox's Emperor,
Czar, and White Magnum Bonum. Occasional
warnings have been given by experienced men as
to the danger of having too many Victoria Plum?
in the country. This is, I think, true, but the
varieties named will not clash with that prolific
variety, being either a little earlier or later, fre-
quently realising a higher price in the market for
that reason. — W. G. G, in Field.

Woods and Forests.

WASTE IN TIMBER.
The subject of waste in timber has been brought
forcibly before me during my walks through large
areas of woodland in various parts of the country
during the summer months. At a time when
■-ents are low, and seme even at the vanishing
point, it does seem strange that valuable timber is
allowed to reach maturity, decay and die, when it
might be converted into money. It is useless to
advocate the teaching of forestry, to ask for
Government grants, to open museums of forestry,
and to compare our systems with those of France
and Germany when landowners show themselves
so indifferent to their own interests.

If farmers allowed their crops to grow and waste
upon the ground they would be considered mad-
men, but year by year trees pass maturity, decay
and die all around us without comment.

When large and beautiful Oaks die, which in
themselves individually form a feature in the land-
scape, there is some excuse, for in decay and
death there is a grandeur which we are sorry to
part with, but this esthetic view disappears when
dealing with trees collectively. I have endeavoured
to find a reason for this widespread loss, but have
failed to find any but indifference or neglect, for
there is no owner, however limited his interest
may be in his estate, who may not fell and dispose
of ripe timber. If the right does not exist
directly, it may be obtained.

I have had occasion often to draw attention to
thi-, and have never failed in carrying my point,
to the welfare of the estate both directly and
indirectly.

Take one example out of many. On a large
estate not a hundred miles from London I have
recently seen a Beech wood growing on a slope,
the lower fringe upon the chalk outcrop, ine
trees upon this fringe were high and straight and
contained on an average from 40 feet to oO cubic
feet of timber each. Many of these were dead,
all not dead were dying, made evident by the yel-
low foliage in the month of July. In this one wood
the loss could not have been less than £300, and
the indirect loss arising from the overcrowding ot
others was also great. I could give numberless
similar instances. It should not be forgotten that
this direct money loss to the individual H but a
trilling part of a national loss arising from a lack
of reproduction. A dead tree is valueless, but it
occupies as much space as a growing one, and the
"•round is idle and unproductive. The estate
from which I have taken my illustration is an
impscunious one, which makes the matter even
more extraordinary.

If the teaching of commercial forestry could
reach those who own the woodlands of the
country, and in whose hands rests the welfare o
the country in this respect, many of the financial
difficulties under which such owners sutler would
pass away. Our woodlands may be made to pay,
and large areas now derelict and waste may be
planted with a certainty of success, provided, ot
course, that such planting is done wrsely. But it
is manifest that this can only be achieved by reap-
ing the produce when ripe.

This waste cannot be denied, because it is one

244

THE GARDEN.

[April G, 1895.

of those evils which cannot be hidden ; therefore,
who is to blame, the indifferent owner or the
negligent agent?— Chas. E. Curtis, in Times.

Prospects of forestry.— It is a gratifying
sign of the times that forestry, and even tree
nomenclature, are being taken up by contem-
poraries whose arboricultural excursions never
before extended beyond the "timber" wharves, and
whose entire botanical vocabulary was limited to
" hardwoods " and " Pine deals and battens." It
used to be a standing joke, in fact, that the editor
believed that the said deals and battens had an
origin similar to that of bricks. This was altered
when a real arboricultural society got at him and
hauled him off to Scotch woods, where he was un-
deceived, and for the first time discovered the
difference between a Scotch Fir and a Spruce.
His own pages will show also that on that par-
ticular occasion an enterprising vendor of forest
trees got hold of him, took him to his nursery,
and persuaded him into the belief that the supe-
riority of his trees consisted in the fact that their
growth was matured, not by good culture and
a good climate, but by the frequent storms of
snow and sleet to which they were exposed. A
Scotch paper made fun of this original "vegetable
physiology;" but behold, isitnot written in "Deals
and Battens? " He is now under the tutelage of
a recent and enthusiastic convert from Brown,
who has got him as far as " A B." When he gets
to "D," let us hope that he will cease to display
the Abies Douglasi as " Douglas Pine" or Pinus
Douglasi, and bring his lists of "Pines" and
"Firs ' into some degree of reasonable conformity
with his botany. — Timber.

Notes of the Week.

Asclepias curassavica.— Some fine sprays of
this old stove plant bearing large clusters of red
and yellow flowers have come to us from Mr.
E. H. Woodall, St. Nicholas House, Scarborough.
It is a pretty old plant now rarely seen.

Plants in Shropshire.— A note from my dis-
trict (mid-Shropshire, East), as far as plants and
trees are concerned, will perhaps interest others as
much as their reports, if located, have interested
me. Frost down to zero has injured all our so-
called hardy evergreen trees except Box, Skimmia
japonica, and the delightful Osmanthusilicifolius,
all four well exposed, but absolutely unharmed.—
R. B.

Bamboos and the frost.— " E. M." is to be

envied. My experience is very different. The
intense frost and keen winds experienced in Berk-
shire have played havoc with my Bamboos, which
hitherto had done fairly well in a partially shel-
tered border. Metake, perhaps, has not suffered
so much as some (e.g., viridi-glaucescens, violascens,
Henoms and Scriptoria). Brown, withered and
scorched, theyare anything but ornamental plants.
Save one or two, they have escaped being killed,
and that is all, and I am in doubt whether the
canes should be left or cut down, in the hope of
fresh canes being thrown up.— F. C, Erleigh,
Reading.

A good early pot Melon.— Early Melons are
much appreciated as they come in when there is
a lack of choice fruits. I have found these early
fruits are often better than those raised under
more favourable conditions as to sowing and rapid
growth of the plants. I have for some years
advised pot culture for early fruits, and one can
obtain good flavour with little difficulty when the
root space is curtailed. For first cutting in May
Gunton Orange is a splendid early variety. This
was raised by Mr. Allan, and was given a first-class
certificate on May 17, 1892, thus showing its ear-
hness. There is no other variety I have grown
more suitable for pot culture. The plant is of
robust habit, sets freely, and the quality is all
that one may desire. The fruits are deep scarlet,
nearly round, slightly netted, and with a clear

golden skin and geod depth of flesh for the size of
fruits, there being a very small seed space. — G.
Wythes.

Apple d'Arcy Spice. — A friend brought us
in from the country the other day half-a-dozen
d'Arcy Spice from a tree he purchased of us.
We think they are rather better specimens
than those we sent you, so enclose you two of
them. They are somewhat s hi ivelled from being
kept too much exposed to the air, a common
fault in storing.— Sai.tmarsh and Son.

*»* Shrivelled, but delicately flavoured and
juicy Apples. Probably they would b3 not nearly
so much shrivelled if they were kept in a cool,
dark cellar. We think this excellent Apple de-
serving of much more attention, and we hope
that Messrs. Saltmarsh will try it on various
stocks, so as to get the most vigorous growth and
the highest fertility. — Ed.

Orchids from Abergavenny. — We have
received from Mr. G. C. Williams, The Gardens,
Trewyn, Pandy, near Abergavenny, a charming
boxful of Orchids, showing that they are well
grown in this garden, whilst the flowers represent
excellent varieties in not a few instances. Den-
drobium Pierardi is represented by a fine variety,
and also the charming D. Devonianum. One
of the best forms we have seen of Odontoglossum
Halli was that of the flower sent, large and
unusually rich in colour. Oncidium Marshallianum,
the brilliantly coloured and large flowered Mesos-
pinidium vulcanium grandiflorum, a very fine
form, Oncidium Krameri, very rich in colour, and
Cypripedium caudatum were also worthy of
mention.

Strawberry Auguste Nicaise. — This variety
cannot be recommended for flavour, as it is far
behind British Queen in this respect, but is equally
as good as many others. In these days of severe
competition size and appearance are strong points,
and a fine dish of Strawberries in April or May is
always appreciated. To show the value of the
above there i3 no difficulty when these fruits are
sent to market in securing double the price for
them. It may be urged that one cannot get the
same number of fruits from the plants as with other
kinds, but with ample attention to early runners
and potting a much greater weight can be obtained
if slow forcing and ample food be given, also a
cool house when the fruits are ripe. The plants
do not winter so well as some kinds and well repay
for shelter under glass. In the open they lose all
their foliage, and unless the pots are full of roots
only finish two or three large fruits. Treated well
there is no difficulty in finishing six to ten large
fruits. — G. W. S.

Magnolia Campbelli.— This lovely Sikkim
Magnolia is now in full flower for the first time,
although it has been planted here for many years
and reached the height of 25 feet. It is planted
in a nook sheltered from the north and east winds.
The flowers, like those of other Magnolias, are
terminal, the points of all main branches and
every side twig being crowned with one large,
slightly sweet-scented flower, which is from ti
inches to 8 inches in diameter. The colour of the
outside of the flower is dark rose or crimson and
lighter inside, with petals of great substance. I
attribute its free flowering to the abnormally dry
summer here of 1894. I say here because most
other parts of the British Isles were suffering
from too much rain, whilst all crops here were
suffering from the want of it. — W. O., Fota, Cork.

%* It was a great pleasure for us to see this
beautiful flower and real novelty, a large bud and
splendid expanded flower, like one of M. Latour-
Marliac's great Nymphaeas, a beautiful soft rose
colour. — Ed.

The Mezereon and its varieties.— These
are very beautiful just now in the Coombe Wood
nurseries of Messrs. Veitch and Sons. It is a pity
that such hardy and delightful dwarf shrubs are
not more grown in gardens, even the common kind
being little seen, and then more often in cottage
gardens, where in the earl}' spring days its purple-
pink flowers fill the air with their sweet odour. A

very fine variety at Ccon be Wood isatro-puipi raa,
this being far darker thtn the ordintry kind, the
flowers a rich deep purple, strikingly brought out
against the single white Daphne. This one of tf.o
most beautiful shrubs we have. Its leafless shoots
at this season are packed closely with large creamy
white flowers, which are as fragrant as those
of the ordinary kind. A bush of this would
give pleasure at this season, especially after such
a winter as we have just passed through. Groups
of the Mezereon, its white variety in particular,
might well be made — not only single plants here
and there.

Spring flowers at Birmingham. — Narcissus
minor and N. minimus, both easily grown Daffo-
dils, are in flower now, a month later than last
year. A pan of Saxifraga Burseriana showing
over one hundred buds and blossoms is a beau-
tiful sight. We grow it fully exposed, and although
the pan has been buried in ice, it is not injured
in the least. Many of the stems bear two flowers.
Saxifraga oppositifolia and its white variety are
very pretty and easily grown if kept watered
in hot weather, and the same may be said of its
other varieties. All the Snowdrops have been
good, and Scilla bifolia improves very much with
cultivation and is now much admired. Singularly,
the white variety is more robust than the type,
and a good patch is very pleasing. Chionodoxa
Luciliai is very vigorous now; it has been estab-
lished some years. The flowers vary a good deal
in colour and shape. — H. J. Sands, Harborne.

The weather in "West Herts. — A moder-
ately cold week for the time of year. On no day
did the shade temperature at any time rise above
50°, and on the night preceding April 1 the
exposed theimometer showed 8° of frost. During
the week the temperature of the ground at 1
foot deep has fallen 1", but only very slightly at
the depth of 2 feet. March proved a warm
spring month, the mean temperature being higher
than in any March during the previous nine years
with the exception of 1893 and 1894. Rain fr
snow fell on seventeen days, to the aggregate
depth of rather more than 1^ inches, and was some
what under theaveragefor themonth. With Ma; eh
ended the most important half of the " diainage
year " of 1894-5, for after that month very little
rain, as a rule, has a chance of descending suffi-
ciently deep into the ground during the next six
months toreplenish thesprings. Itistheieforesatis
factory to find that the total rainfall for the winter
half of the present "drainage year" was about
1 inch in excess of the mean for that period. In
March the duration of sunshine fell short of the
average for the month, and was considerably less
than in either of the two previous Marches. One
striking feature of the past month was the absence
of north-easterly winds. Indeed, for only fortv
nine hours altogether did the wind correfiom any
point between north and east. — E. M., Berkham-
sted.

Cutting Osiers. — Will any reader kindly tell
me how late I may cut Osiers without spoiling the
summer's growth? I find it difficult to make pur-
chasers cut them before the end of April, and I
think this must cause a diminution of growth in
the ensuing summer. The basket-makers like to
cut che Osiers late, as they then peel easily, the
sap being up.— J. H. W. Thomas.

Names of plants. — W. H. Co,r. — 1, apparently a

Bertolonia ; 2, rJoroDia megastigma. F. M. — Den-

drobium uobile.

Royal Horticultural Society.— The next
meeting of tlie E.H.S. will be held on Tuesday, April
9, in the Drill Hall, Jatre3 Street, Victoria Street,
Westminster. At 3 o'cloe-k a paper on "Campanulas,"
by Mr. J. Wood, of Kirkstall, will be read.

The "Wild G-arden : or, the Naturalisation and Natu- el
Grouping of Hardy Exotic Plants, ic.th a chapter on the Garden,
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, icilh -wool ca;,r.i>r.r.g
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged. Dm
8vo, linen cloth. Price 12s. ; well bound in half nwrocco, 18a
Through all booksellers.

1I]E GARDEN

245

No. 1221. SATURDAY, April13, 1895. Vol. XLVII,

"This la an Ait
Which does mend Nature ; change It rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

C. undulata is said to be a native of Guate-
mala, but as it is extremely rare and apparently
never found there by collectors, this statement is
not to be relied on. The flowers are bright yel-
low, produced on long racemes, and the plants
grow about 15 inches high. H. R.

Orchids.

CHYSIS.

The few species belonging to this genus are
useful free-flowering plants, and as their culture
is of the easiest description, provided enough
heat is at command, they are essentially ama-
teurs' Orchids. They are strong-growing de-
ciduous epiphytes, and may be grown in sus-
pended pots or baskets. If in the latter, care
is necessary to avoid scorching of the foliage by
the sun, as although they like a clear light they
are easily injured by bright sunshine under
glass. The treatment will be similar in many
respects to that given Dendrobiums, and dur-
ing the winter more particularly they must be
kept well up to the light, or but few flowers will
be produced. These occur on short racemes
and are developed along with the new growth.
The early spring is the proper season to repot,
and the compost should consist of equal parts
of peat and Sphagnum. The drainage must be
exceptionally good, quite two-thirds of the pots
being filled and a layer of rough Moss placed
over this. Chysis like fairly wide pots or
baskets, as the roots are plentifully produced.
When once they have obtained a hold of the
compost they must n3Ver be allowed to get dry
until the growth is complete. The plants should
not be syringed overhead, as the water is very
apt to collect in the heart of the young growths,
causing them to decay. They are best accom-
modated in the East India house during the
summer, but they should be rested in winter
by keeping them drier at the roots and at the
cool end of the Cattleya house.

C. aurea comes from Venezuela, and requires
less heat than the kinds mentioned below. The
pseudo-bulbs are roundish, each about 8 inches in
length, and bear light green lanceolate leaves.
The flowers are yellow, marked with brownish
crimson on the tips of the petals. This is a free-
flowering and interesting Orchid, introduced in
1834.

C. bractescens is perhaps the most popular in
the genus and deservedly appreciated. It grows
rather more strongly than the preceding, other-
wise the two are very similar in habit. The
racemes bear from four to six large flowers, which,
like all in the genus, are fleshy in texture. In
the best forms the flowers are each 2J inches
across, pure white with the exception of the in-
terior of the lip, which is blotched with yellow,
and has several brownish crimson lines leading to
the column. It was introduced from South
America in 1S40.

C. Chelsoni is a hybrid between C. bractescens
and C. laavis, raised by the Messrs. Veitch. The
racemes have a more elegant appearance than
those of the other kinds, and bear each from four
to six flowers, the ground colour yellow, the
sepals tipped with purple. The lip is whitish,
also plentifully spotted with purple.

C. ljevis is a strong-growing kind which,
flowering at midsummer, bears racemes of yellow
flowers spotted on the lip with crimson. The
plant should be carefully treated while in bloom,
and not allowed to remain in a very moist house,
or the beautiful flowers will soon be spoiled. A
native of Mexico, as also is

C. Limminghi, another beautiful kind, and
somewhat similar. The flowers are, however,
nearly pine white, but tipped with purplish rose.
It Mas introduced about forty years ago, and is
among the best in the genus.

MILTONIA VEXILLARIA.
The earliest plants of this superb Orchid are now
in flower, and where there is a good number of
plants they will keep up a tine display until mid-
summer. The flowers of this well-known species
have a peculiar charm, the simple form and de-
lightful colouring making a change from the
singular outline of many other kinds. It is un-
doubtedly this wondrous diversity of form and
colour that has led to the great interest taken in
the Orchid family, for probably no other race of
plants can equal them in this particular. Asa
beautiful and free-flowering plant there are few
Orchids to compare with M. vexillaria when in good
condition. To grow it well it requires a good
deal of attention in the matter of keeping insects
in check, but otherwise its culture is by no means
difficult. All practical cultivators will agree that
to be successful with this species it must be kept
in good health from the fiist, never allowing it to
go back from want of attention either to the com-
post, to the moisture supply, or in any other par-
ticular, but always anticipating its wants. This
rule, of course, holds good to some extent with all
Orchids, but it is much easier to correct a mistake
with manv kinds than with the species under
notice. Thrips are its greatest enemy, and if
once these obtain a firm hold on the plants it is
extremely difficult to eradicate them, the young
shoots being crippled in 'he incipient stages and
never growing with any freedom. For this reason
it is advisable to carefully sponge the plants
periodically, whether insects are seen about them
or not, using a weak, tepid solution of soft soap.
This makes the foliage distasteful to the insects
and prevents any possible accumulation of dust or
dirt. In the matter of compost, too, never wait
until the pseudo-bulbs begin to decrease in size or
till the peat has become a soddened, close mass
before repotting, but give new compost as soon
as the roots have become well matted in the pots,
biennially or even annually if necessary. The
best fibrous peat with all sand and earthy particles
shaken out and clean, fresh Sphagnum Moss
should be used, with a little charcoal or crocks
broken to various sizes according to that of the
pots used. These must be clean, drained about
two-thirds of their depth, taking care to have a
large piece over the hole with the convex side
upwards, and smaller pieces near the top.
A little rough Moss must be laid over this
before placing the plant in position, with the
leads well above the rim. Disturb the roots as
little as possible, but avoid leaving anything
behind likely to cause sourness. In bedding the
compost arrange it so that the bases of the leading
pseudo-bulbs are hardly buried, the new growths
just resting upon the surface. I do not care to
repot this Orchid in spring, a more suitable time
being about September or just as the growth is
well on the move, keeping the plants rather closer
afterwards in order to avoid any check. It is not
fastidious as to temperature, some growers suc-
ceeding with it in the cool house. The best place
for it is, I believe, on the side stage of the Cattleya
house close to a ventilator, as a free circulation of
air is very desirable. In this direction, however,
circumstances greatly alter cases, so that if
growers are not successful with the plants in one
place they should give them a trial in another,
and when a suitable position has been found leave
them there, attending carefully to their wants in
other respects and at flowering time they will not
regret the trouble taken. Experienced growers
are in the habit of supplying weak liquid manure
to this species when finishing its pseudo-bulbs,
and the magnificent racemes of flower produced
under these conditions are a convincing argument
in favour of the practice. It must not be for-
gotten, however, that in other than experienced

hands this is dangerous and much better left alone
altogether than overdone in the least, so that
while not deprecating the use of stimulants I
would advise amateurs and beginners to experi-
ment with them at first on grosser growing Or-
chids.

M. vexillaria requires a good supply of moisture
all through the season, varying it according to the
weather and the state of growth, and during
spring and summer the plants may frequently be
clewed overhead with tepid water from the
syringe, excepting of course after the blossoms
show colour. There are many named varieties of
this Orchid, the colour ranging from nearly pure
white through varying tints of rose and purple.
A typical flower would measure about 3 inches
across the labellum, and this, in addition to the
sepals and petals, is rosy pink with a few streaks

of yellow leading to the column. M. vexillaria was
described as an Odontoglossum by Professor
Reichenbach, and is a native of New Grenada.

THUNIAS.
The season for repotting these charming Orchids
having again arrived suggests a note on their
culture. They are all free-growing and constant
flowering Orchids of a deciduous habit of growth,
blooming on terminal racemes from the apex of
the pseudo-bulbs before the leaves fall. They are
naturally epiphytes, but thrive under cultivation
in a more substantial compost than most Orchids.
Good fibrous loam and peat in equal proportions
with a liberal admixture of chopped Sphagnum
and very tine crocks will suit them well, a few-
nodules of charcoal about the size of horse beans
being also serviceable in keeping the soil open.
They should be grown in pots, which must be
clean and tilled to half their depth with drainage,
covering this with the rougher parts of the com-
post. Pull the plants quite out of the old soil
and shake it all away from about the roots, as
they are strong feeders and usually exhaust the
soil during the first season. A few of the old
roots may be left to steady the plants a little, but
they are of no further use, and most of them
should be cut away. From three to six stems
may be placed in each pot according to the size,
which may range between 5 inches and 9 inches or
even larger. The surface of the compost should
be kept rather below the rims of the pots as in the
ordinary way, the base of the pseudo-bulbs just
resting on this. A small stake may be put to
each to steady it until roots are produced.
After potting place in the East India house and
keep ciuite dry until roots are being emitted, when
a little water will be required, increasing this as
they run in the compost. When growing freely a
plentiful supply will be needed, and when the
pots are filled with roots, a little well-diluted soot
water or other liquid manure may be given, but
be sure the plants are moist at the roots before
this is applied. Thunias delight in a hot and
moist temperature with plenty of sunlight whde
making their growth, but after flowering they
should be gradually dried off, no water being re-
quired in the depth of winter. They may be
easily propagated as described recently in The
Garden by cutting the pseudo-bulbs into lengths
as soon as they attain to maturity.

T ubv grows about 2 feet high and produces
about a dozen flowers upon a semi-pendulous
raceme These have the sepals and petals pure
white the lip also white with faint purple mark-
ings. Introduced from India about 184U.

T Bknsome is similar to the last-named in
habit, but the flowers are magenta-purple with a
yellow crest on the lip. This is a native of Moul-
mein, introduced in 1867.

T c \n-didissima comes from Burmah, and was
introduced with an importation of Dendrobiums,
first flowering with Sir Trevor Lawrence. This is
similar in growth to T. Marshalhana, and the
flowers are wholly pure white. _

T Mak"=haltjaNA. — This magnificent kind is
more popular than any, and deservedly so as no
Orchid is more easily grown or bears more beauti-
ful flowers. These are large, magenta with the

246

THE GARDEN.

[April 13, 1895.

exception of an orange and yellow crest to the
lip, which ia exquisitely fringed at the edge.
Several varieties of this species are in existence,
including ionophlebia, purpurata, and triloba,
these differing from the type chiefly in the dispo-
sition and tints of colour on the lip.

T. Veitchiana is a hybrid between T. Mar-
shalliana and T. Bensonhe, first exhibited in 1885.
The flowers are white, the tips of the sepals and
petals shaded with mauve. The lip is white with
mauve and purple markings. R.

Kitchen Garden.

PRACTICES IN POTATO CULTURE.
CUSTOMS that have long been established are not
easily upset. Especially is this the case where
the working classes in rural districts are con-
cerned, these proving the most conservative of
all. You may meet them in fair argument and
ridicule their notions to your heart's content, only
to feel that they will go away as firmly convinced
as ever that they are right and you are wrong.
At least, such is my experience, and I find there
are many more similarly situated. Meetings of
working men are more interested in Potato grow-
ing than any other subject that can be brought
before them, and, curiously enough, what they
appear to most need— viz., abundance of Potatoes
— they make the most mistakes in producing. My
contention is the working classes are not generally
successful Potato growers, very few, compara-
tively, lifting anything like such heavy crops as
they ought to do under spade cultivation. It is
in the matter of planting tubers or sets that most
mistakes occur. Too often next to nothing is
thought about these till the heap stored in the pre-
vious autumn has been used from for a long time
and very freely, scarcely enough being left to meet
the exigencies of the situation. Not only does
this usually mean a loss of vitality owing to pre-
mature sprouting, but it also necessarily entails
much cutting up of tubers in order to have suffi-
cient for planting. To the average cottager it
seems sheer waste to plant whole tubers. When
I tell them nothing under a 4-oz. set should be
cut, and that a 3oz. tuber is the smallest that
ought to be planted, the assertion is made, and
which is only too true, that the latter are fre-
quently cut into three pieces and duly planted.
The growth from such puny sets must of neces-
sity be very weak, and who ever yet obtained a
heavy crop of medium sized to large tubers from
feeble haulm and stems? It has been proved
bejond contradiction that the growth resulting
from well-kept 3-oz. and rather heavier whole sets
invariably gives the best results, and it is this
size of tuber that ought always to be selected at
lifting time, stored separately and thinly where
they can be protected from severe frosts, and at
other times exposed freely to light and cool air.
It is only fair to add that very many gardeners
are equally indifferent as to the preparation of
their planting tubers, not bestirring themselves
about them till it is too late. In some parts
of Somerset the curious notion prevails that
not only ought all Potato sets to be cut, but
that also the cut sides should be placed
uppermost in the drills. It is thought by
tome that the Potatoes do not bleed so much
when the cut side is uppermost— at least they
offer that as an excuse for the practice, but
still more claim for the plan that it leads to the
sprouts coming from underneath in a curve gain-
ing a stronger roothold in the soil accordingly. I
was under the impression that a strong sprout
growing straight upwards gave by far the best
results, but when whole villages follow such a time-
honoured custom of planting cut side uppermost
what I have had to say about it will not influence
them much.

It is also worthy of note how tenaciously cot-
tagers cling to the practice of planting Potatoes
thickly. In some districts the rows of all but the
short-topped early varieties, or Ashleafs princi-

pally, are disposed 20 inches apart; in other places
22 inches are allowed, the distance apart in the
drills varying from 8 inches to 10 inches apart.
My advice has been very frequently given to the
effect that it would pay them far better to be 'ess
free with their knives and to allow a medium-
sized tuber the space usually given to three small
cut sets, and to note the results. It is quite a
waste of time to talk about planting in drills 3
feet apart unless the proposal is made to plant
Brussels Sprouts or other winter crops between,
but rows 30 inches apart and 12 inches between
the sets do not scare some of them, and it may
be this will prove a step in the right direction.
As a matter of fact it is enough on ground fre-
quently producing the same crops and not often
manured. All those who have any difficulty in
convincing working men that they overcrowd
their rows ought to ask this question : Where are
the best hills or single plants of Potatoes invari-
ably to be found at lifting time ? It is never dis-
puted that these are at the ends of the rows or
where the most light reaches the plants and air
and warmth reach the roots, and when once men
are set thinking in that direction the more in-
telligent of them begin to see " something in it."
Having the whole of the ground heavily covered
with haulm may seem encouraging or to presage
a heavy crop, but this is too often overdone in
gardens under the charge of professional gar-
deners as well as in cottagers' gardens, those re-
sponsible overlooking the fact that plants more
thinly grown produce much the best crops of
tubers, and this whether as regards weight, ap-
pearance, or quality.

As an extra inducement to owners of small
gardens to allow more room for their Potatoes
than heretofore, I usually advise them to re-
sort to the very old practice of sowing a few
Broad Beans very thinly along the rows as the
planting is proceeding; not, however, to the ex-
tent of growing as many stalks of Beans as
Potatoes, as this would mean the production
of far more pods than are needed and the
shading and weakening of the Potatoes. A Bean
seed dropped in after every third Potato set is
ample, and these duly moulded up with the
Potato haulm will crop most abundantly and not
interfere with the more important crop in the
least. Out of this practice has grown another,
and which also answers well. With the rows of
erect sturdy-growing Potatoes, notably Magnum
Bonum and the variety very hard to separate from
the latter, and known as the Bruce, not less than
30 inches apart and the sets 12 inches apart in the
rows, Peas may be grown in the rows with very
surprising results. In this case a single plant is
allowed to attach itself to each Potato plant, and
this it does, cropping most satisfactorily, too, with-
out any apparent detriment to the weight and
quality of Potatoes eventually lifted. Naturally
it is the medium height varieties that should be
preferred for this method of double cropping, and
if more seeds are sown than plants are needed, then
the surplus has to be drawn out in due course.
Arranging therowsof short-topped, early-maturing
varieties not less than 3 feet apart, and after these
are moulded up planting Brussels Sprouts, Bore-
cole, autumn Broccoli, and autumn Cauliflowers
between, is not largely practised in small gardens,
the owners of the latter preferring rather to crop
more closely with Potatoes and to plant the same
classes of winter crops in succession to these.
This is a decided mistake. They may obtain more
Potatoes by closer cropping, but instead of the
ground being waiting for the plants of other
vegetables named, the plants are invariably wait-
ing for the ground, and as a consequence are
greatly hindered thereby, never really recovering
from the check. It is the Ashleaf varieties, notably
the old Myatt's, that I would still grow the most
extensively with a view to intercropping ; but if
somewhat later maturing varieties are similarly
planted, the lifting should take place directly the
tubers are full sized, not waiting for the haulm to
actually die down. In this way disease is often
escaped and the lifting is done while yet this is
possible without damaging the Brussels Sprouts

and such like. Soil previously drawn up to the
Potatoes ought to be worked with a spade up to
the stems of the other plants that are soon to cover
the ground. If it is scarcely possible to grow too
many Potatoes, then I would advise marking out
intended sites for runner Beans and late Peas,
cropping the spaces between with two or three
rows of second early Potatoes. The latter may
also be grown to within 2 feet or even less of in-
tended rows of Vegetable Marrows and always in
advance of the main crop of Leeks. Early Pota-
toes should precede Strawberries — are a good pre-
paration for the latter, in fact. A Rover.

EARLY FRENCH BEANS.
All have not the convenience to force this vege-
table in pots in forcing pits or hot houses, but
others may secure an early supply by sowing in
44-inch pots in frames and then planting out on a
warm border and protecting at night. For years
I have adopted the plan advised, and there is no
crop more profitable than these early dwarf Beans
when a little trouble is taken in raising an early
crop. Requiring early vegetables in quantity, a
few years ago I tried every kind of Bean I could
obtain, and sowed two rows of each on an early
south border to test earliness, as a few days with
this crop is of great importance, and out of at
least a dozen kinds, Mohawk — or, as it is well
named by some, Six Weeks — came in fit for table
in advance of all others, so that I advise it for
sowing in pots to plant out for first crop in the
open. Mohawk possesses other advantages : it is
very dwarf, with good habit, and a very free
cropper, producing a nice sized pod and of good
quality. I have by careful selection of the first
podding plants got a very early variety, certainly
larger in pod and with more top, but a good form
for planting out of pots, as earliness is a gain in
the right direction. Many may be able to sow a
few dozen pots for planting out, and these sown
now will come in in advance of those sown in the
open by several weeks. The seed may be sown in
any warm place, and when a few inches above the
soil removed to cold frames, watering sparingly,
planting out, after being hardened off in the
open, at the end of April or early in May. At
that date protection will be necessary, and it is
well to plant on a warm border in front of a fruit
house. Such plants can readily be protected by
hand-glasses, mats, or other coverings, and will
well repay for room occupied. If raised as ad-
vised and grown in cold frames the plants soon
take to the soil, but there is no gain by raising in
strong heat and allowing the plants to draw or
fall over the sides of the pots. There should not
be any check from the start, and there is no fear
of collapse if the plants are not forced too hard.
When planting, I find deep drills a great saving,
as these shelter from cold winds, and it is a much
better means of watering in dry weather. When
planting it is advisable to make the plants firm.
Shelter for a short time and give tepid water to
settle the soil round the roots. G. Wythes.

Kales and the frost. -Such seasons as we
have just passed through will prove the value of the
hardier varieties of Kales, as these are now just
breaking away freely and will give a lot of useful
greens. The Arctic Kales I noted the value of
in an earlier note, and my remarks now more con-
cern the old form of Cottager's and Asparagus or
Buda Kales. Even the last-named varieties are
hard hit, the tops or heads being crippled where
the plants are tall or were raised early. Plants
raised from seed sown early in May, specially for
late greens, are little injured, and though small,
will be invaluable for spring cutting, and as
spring Cabbage will be late this year, those who
have late Kales will find them more valuable than
ever. By lifting a few and planting on a north
border the plants will get a check and not run to
flower so quickly. The other varieties, such as
the Chou de Russe, Ragged Jack, and Dwarf
Curled Scotch, are good. A portion of the head
is injured, but the stems are sound and will
furnish a lot of young shoots.— S. H. B.

Amu. 13, 1<«95

THE GARDEN

247

1-LOWtR liARDEIN.

SHIRLEY POPPIES.

The conventional floral arrangements one gene-
rally sees, although composed most gracefully,
bear the stamp of laboured production too
plainly, and lack the simple expressive charm
so characteristic of such arrangements as that
here illustrated, in which the flowers show all
their natural grace and form free from all trace
of design. The essential thing always is to
have vases or receptacles suitable in shape for
the flowers that are to be placed in them, and
beyond a pleasing foil of pretty leaves or
grasses it is much the best to let flowers that
can be gathered in plenty make their own pic-
ture in the house as they do in the garden. Of
the many types of Poppies now grown few are
of any use to cut for the house, but the Shirley
Poppies are delightful and a noteworthy excep-
tion. Their long-stemmed flowers in lovely

found them to vary greatly both in foliage and
flowers. On some plants the pitchers are rather long
and narrow and quite devoid of coloured mark-
ings, while others are found with much shorter and
broader pitchers and with markings varying from
a mere dotting with chocolate colour to an entire
covering of the leaf with reddish chocolate, it
being also noticeable that those having the darkest
foliage have the finest and most brightly-coloured
flowers. It is also worthy of note that those plants
that were protected to some extent from the
winter sun by the dead grass and fallen leaves
passed through the cold weather in much better
condition than those that were fully exposed.

Under very similar conditions to those in which
we find the Sarracenias, that is nestling among
Sphagnum in decidedly boggy localities, we also
find two or three very pretty little Sundews,
Drosera rctundifolia being the most common
species, while D. longifolia and D. filiformis are
not so readily found, and are consequently of more
interest to the collector. Among the many in-
teresting bog plants found in some portions of
New Jersey and adjoining States are also two
particularly charming little Orchids, namely

A bowl of Shirley Poppies. From a photograph sent by Mr. J. Nash, Chapel Street, Berkhamsted.

shades of soft colour offer a fine variety and
are free from objectionable odour. The flowers
last longest when cut in the bud state, the buds
opening perfectly in water. These Poppies are
very handsome in the garden when well treated,
but, in common with most annuals, they suffer
from overcrowding. With abundant room to
gTow, the plants become nearly a yard in height
and diameter, perfect bushes of profuse bloom.

SOME AMERICAN HARDY PLANTS.
When reading Mr. J. Wood's very interesting
"Notes on Hardy Plants" in The Garden of
February 16 it seemed somewhat odd to find the
hardiness of Sarracenia purpurea questioned, but
as there doubtless are great differences in the
climatic conditions of Yorkshire and the Eastern
United States — even though the temperature of
the latter may be lower during the winter— one
can readily understand that such difficulties may
arise in the establishing of this plant. I also agree
with Mr. Wood that there are several varieties of
Sarracenia purpurea, for I have examined a large
number of plants growing wild in the swamps of
New Jersey — where a temperature of zero is not
extraordinary in the winter season and have

Arethusa bulbosa and Togonia ophioglossoidee-
The former is rather scarce, but pretty enough to
be worthy of a hunt, its usually solitary flower of
bright rose- purple being very attractive.

Pogonia ophioglossoides can sometimes be
gathered freely, its sweetly scented flowers of
rose colour, or sometimes nearly white, being
about 1 inch in length, and there are frequently
three or four flowers on a spike.

Still another hardy Orchid, of some value as a
foliage plant, is the Rattlesnake Plantain or
Goodyera pubescens, the white reticulated foliage
of which is found in rather damp woods and
usually in well-shaded spots. This is really a
very pretty species, and I can well remember
with what enthusiasm I carried home my first
specimen of G. pubescens. I was a boy of about
twelve years at the time, and having previously
seen some Anactochili I felt convinced that I
had discovered a new species of that family. My
ideas were, however, soon corrected on that
point, but I have always had a tender feeling for
the plant since.

One of our most attractive hardy perennials
during the middle and latter part of the summer
is the Rose Mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos), which
is usually found in perfection near the seashore
or on the edges of brackish swamps adjacent to

tide-water. In such localities it appears in great
masses from 4 feet to 6 feet high and bearing
quantities of flowers that are frequently h' inches
in diameter.

Numerous variations of this species are found,
the type having light rose-coloured flowers, while
pure white is not uncommon, and a particularly
handsome form is that having white flowers with
a deep crimson eye. As this Hibiscus seeds very
freely it becomes quite an easy matter to propa-
gate these particular forms, some of which have
thus been sent out as novelties by enterprising
seedsmen. W. H. Taplin.

Philadelphia, Penn.

AN EXHIBITION OF LILIES.

While agreeing generally with the opening re-
marks of '■ H. P." at page 107 on the above sub-
ject, I think that his concluding remark savours
too much of despair. At no season of the year, it
is true, would it be possible to produce anything
like a representative display of Lilies, yet it is sur-
prising what can be done by specialists when suffi-
cient notice has been furnished of the date of ex-
hibition, and with the additional advantage of
northern as well as southern growers con-
tributing. A much larger display of these flowers
could be brought together in the early part of July
than at the same date in August. It would,
perhaps, exclude the speciosum and auratum
sections, but it is quite possible that such an ex-
hibition would be more generally useful and in-
structive without these groups, because they are
more generally known and cultivated among
amateurs than the majority. By forwarding in
some instances and retarding in others a consider-
able number which could hardly be had in good
condition a month later may be brought together
in July. An exhibition in July should in-
clude L. candidum and its varieties, the well-
known L. Harrisi, as well as the longiflorum of
the Dutch growers; also longiflorum of Japan,
which contains many of the variety eximium as
well as other distinct forms. It would be quite
easy to have these latter good for July
or August by utilising the importations now
coming to hand. By potting the dry bulbs at
once and plunging them behind a north wall in
cocoa-nut fibre they could be kept back consider-
ably. The same remark applieB to any dry bulbs
of davuricum and others which flower near the
time stated. Established pots of speciosum album
and Kratzeri could be had by July if placed at
once in a greenhouse temperature, also the earliest
importations of auratum if now well rooted and
similarly treated. The Tiger Lilies may possibly
require forwarding slightly, though not in the
early stages, while chalcedonicum may need keep-
ing back a little, unless the Scotch growers of
this kind are later than the English growers.
L. Browni would almost certainly be in good con-
dition, as also some of the Martagons. Indeed, it
would be difficult to speculate with any degree of
certainty on what kinds may be brought together
from all quarters. Scotland, for example, could
supply species and forms of those earlier kinds
which in Southern England may have long since
passed out of bloom ; while the Isle of Wight
and Devon, to say nothing of growers in the
Channel Islands, may send cut specimens of many
thin.'S as yet only in bud in other parts. Apart
from the interest attaching to the exhibition
itself, a series of practical papers would prove of
great help to a very large number who now culti-
vate these beautiful plants, while a comparison of
the varied experiences of growers in different
localities would assuredly be of interest to many.
E. J.

Spiraea astilboides fl^ribunda. — This,
which was alluded to on p. 227 as one of the best
of herbaceous Spiraeas, has made a considerable
advance in favour within the last two or three
years. Last season it received an award of merit
from the floral committee of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society on Ju;.e 26, a large basket full of

248

THE GARDEN.

[April 13, 1S95.

fine plants being then shown. It is of Belgian
origin, and is said to have originated as a seed-
ling from a plant of S. astilboides. The flower
panicles of the newer form are longer and
more branched, whilst the individual blooms are
whiter than those of the type. It seems to be
even more amenable to forcing than S. astil-
boides, but not so readily as the common S.
japonica. — H. P.

Iris reticulata and Dog's-tooth Violets. —
Spring flowers this year are so late, and in conse-
quence so doublj* welcome, that perhaps one
exaggerates their charm. Certainly they have
never seemed better or brighter in my eyes. One
group in particular on the spring rockwork is so
much admired, that in case the combination is new
to others, as it was to me, who has not been in
England at this season for years, I put it down on
paper for your benefit. Three j'ears ago a good
clump of Iris reticulata was planted in sandy loam
and left to itself. The ground has become slightly
covered with trailing plants, and some Dog's-tooth
Violets, that no doubt had been there before, have
made a perfect carpet of soft pink flowers and
bronzy mottled leaves under the luxuriant mass
of Iris blooms and spear-pointed leaves. The
" shot silk " effect of the purple and gold
on a pink and brown ground is one of the
prettiest things I have ever seen, and in large
quantities would be the loveliest effect possible.
Spring Leucojums and Scilla bifolia are pretty to-
gether, but for a combination I know nothing
that can surpass Iris reticulata and Dog's-tooth
Violets. — E. H. Woodall, Scarborough.

NOVELTIES EXHIBITED AT THE HAAR-
LEM FIFTH i QUINQUENNIAL BULB
SHOW.

Some fine novelties among bulbs were exhibited at
this show, which was held at Haarlem, the centre
of the Dutch bulb-growing district. Among
Hyacinths, which were shown in considerable
numbers, the following were conspicuous : Isabella,
double, blush-white, deeper towards the centre, an
immense and very closely-set spike, by far the
largest among the double varieties : La Grandess •,
double, white, a sport from the well known single
pure white variety ; Kastanjebloem (chestnut
flower), a large spike of pyramidal form, the
bells very large and of a pale flesh colour. In
single varieties the following are distinct gains :
Dr. Windthorst , blush-white, very large and long
spike ; Potgieter, pale blue, very large ; Cardinal
Wiseman, pale carmine-rose, with darker stripes ;
Jacques, immense spike, pale rose ; City of Haar-
lem, fine yellow, large spike, closely set.

Tulips were shown in considerable numbers and
of excellent quality. There were very few novel-
ties, but the following comprise a selection of the
best : Emperor Alexander, very double, bright
red and yellow, showy ; Toreador, double, deep
red and orange, fine ; Prince of Orange, deep
orange, a glowing colour ; this is a sport from the
lilac-coloured variety Violet Fonce, and is a
splendid kind ; Jeanne d'Arc, white, pale rosy
tinge, large and fine flower ; Lord Rosebery, pale
rose colour, fine flower : Golden King, pure golden
yellow, a sport from the old variety Tournesol,
and the best double yellow Tulip in cultivation ;
La Parfaite, bright red, yellow edged. These are
all double varieties. One the best single varieties
exhibited was Queen of the Netherlands, which has
a very large, nicely shaped flower of a pale rose
colour. Visser has a bold flower of a dark brown-
red. Kuyp, white and red, and Etoile Brillante,
bright scarlet, were good.

There were three groups of Tulip species shown,
which proved a great attraction. Tulipa Kauf-
manniana is a very early and showy Tulip, in bud
much resembling some of the Magnolias, the body
colour being white, yellowish towards the centre,
and with a dash of red on the outside of the
flower. T. violacea. a charming new Tulip, with
bright magenta-red flowers, very early ; T. lini-
folia, narrow leaved, bright scarlet flowers ; T.
Batalini, pure soft yellow, a small but pretty

flower, are all good early-flowering species. Irises
were shown in great variety by M.Van Tubergen,
of Haarlem. There were not only all the early-
flowering varieties, comprising such gems as
I. histrioides, I. Danfordia-, I. reticulata in variety,
I. Rosen bachiana and I. persica, but in addition to
these there were well-flowered examples of the
Korolkowi group, I. Kochi, fine purple, many
varieties of I. hispanica, and the choice I. Bois-
sieri.

From the same exhibitor came a nice group of
new Lachenalias, which received the first prize as
the best new bulbous plants recently introduced
into commerce. This group included the varieties
Cawston Gem, a giant among Lachenalias, foliage
broad and massive, the flower-spikes very long,
and the bells large; L. Ruby, a very free-flower-
ing, bright coloured form, which perhaps might
be best described as an improved tricolor: and
L. Topaz, pure waxy yellow, very fine. These
were all figured in The Garden for September
29, 1S94. A second prize went to Messrs. Kre-
lage and Son, of Haarlem, for Arum Eggeri, a
plant somewhat in the style of A. pakestinum
(sanctum), but the spathe, instead of being of a
uniform deep brown-red, is of a lighter shade and
spotted. A very fine group of fifty pots of mis-
cellaneous bulbous plants included a nicely flow-
ered example of the white form of Gladiolus
byzantinus, Habranthus pratensis, brilliant scar-
let ; Camassia esculenta major, a fine form of
this well-known plant ; Scilla sibirica alba, pure
white, a promising novelty ; Anemone fulgens
Leichtlini, large flowers, with a white centre ;
and Iris histrioides, a brilliant pale blue, one of
the best early Irisea. A Visitor.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Daffodils. — When in 1894 we started cutting
Tenbvs in quantity by the end of January, being
helped thereto by a good mulching of leaves
through [.which the frost did not penetrate, and
having no very cold weather to check the pro-
gress of foliage and flower-stems, it seemed as
though the culture of Daffodils in pots was hardly
necessary, but this opinion has to be considerably
modified after the experience of the present year,
when from the very same clumps the first flower
was not open until March 2.3, and all anticipations
of an early supply of outdoor blooms have ended
in disappointment. It is not, I think, generally
known as yet that for pot work Daffodils in variety
yield for a comparatively small outlay a better and
more enduring display than can be obtained from
any other bulb, the lengthy season being naturally
due to a careful selection of varieties. The choicer
kinds cannot, of course, be included in such selec
tions if the expenditure is limited ; these, however,
are not essential if a good blaze of colour and some-
thing to fill the vases are the principal considera-
tion, and of the kinds enumerated under "good for
forcing," bulbs are obtainable at from 5s. Gd. to
10s. (id. per Kit). The kinds I have grown are
two sorts of Bulbocodium, obvallaris, Golden
Spur, pallidus pnecox and princeps in the trum-
pets, Leedsi, Magog, Cynosure, and Stella in the
star section, triandrus albus and the single and
double forms of poeticus. Two parts of friable
loam to one of leaf-soil is a good potting mixture,
a fairly good and holding compost being conducive
to the production of stout, stocky foliage and fine
flowers. The number of bulbs to be placed in
pot or pan will, of course, depend on their indi-
vidual size. It is advisable to have ready some
nice fresh Moss and to cover the surface of pot or
pan so soon as growth commences, so that the
young foliage can push its way through the
same. Where there is a demand for flowers for
church decoration it is always advisable to have
plenty of Daffodils for Easter ; they are used
largely in many places, and very pleasing arrange-
ments can be made with them if they are put up
with their own foliage in a light, natural manner.
I have been led to the subject of forced Daffodils
in these flower garden notes from the fact that
the same bulbs having served one purpose may
afterwards find a home on the borders of lawns,

in shrubberies or in the wild garden. Turned
out of pots and planted for the time being in
some odd corner, taking care, by the way, to
label them correctly, that there is no confused
mixture at planting time, they may, as the foliage
on such bulbs naturally dies away quickly, be
consigned to permanent quarters any time during
the summer when convenient.

Polyanthuses. —With the advent of better
weather flower buds are pushing up fast, and a
very fair display will soon be obtained. A sharp
look-out must be kept for sparrows, these mis-
chievous rascals being sometimes answerable for
the destruction of a lot of flower buds, especially
if the weather is cold and bleak and succulent
food is scarce. Black cotton will keep them away
if placed at a slight distance above the plants, the
rows or interlacing of cotton being fairly close to-
gether, so that the birds are baffled if they attempt
to alight. If fish netting is available, this, with
the aid of a few benders, may be placed over the
beds until a fair amount of bud< is on the point
of expansion. On dry porous soils where beds of
this favourite spring flower are fully exposed to
the sun they should be well mulched with short
manure. Unprotected beds in a hot dry spring are
not likely to give a good display of flower. Speci-
ally good flowers may be marked for seed-saving if
a fresh stock is required, and if sowing is contem-
plated this spring, April is a good time to get in
the seed. I find a south-west or west border, the
latter preferably, the best for the purpose on our
light dry soil, and if the weather shows signs of a
spell of drought it is a good plan to damp the
drills before sowing and to shade slightly in the
middle of the day until the seed has germinated.
An essential feature towards securing a quick
return of good plants is to transplant directly the
seedlings can be handled to prevent the formation
of a tap root of abnormal length. Failing the pros-
pect of doing this at the right moment — that is,
if the seedlings are to remain some time in the
seed bed — the latter should be made very firm and
solid before the seed is sown.

Common flowers. — The fact that all outdoor
flowers that beautify the garden in late winter
and early spring are necessarily of the hardiest
type is sufficient to create possibly a greater liking
for them at this season. They have not, like her-
baceous and bulbous plants, later on to chance
comparison with tender subjects, but are em-
phatically alone in their glory. I was much in-
terested the other day in a chance contrast that
will be bad to beat all through the season. A
batch of Sedum Lydium had to come away from
a certain portion of the garden last autumn and
occasional clumps were made in the front of
herbaceous borders. I did not remember at
the time that the same ground was always occu-
pied by Crocus. Such, however, was the case,
and the bulbs, mostly in the dark and light blue
shades, pushed up through the carpet of Stone-
crop, and the bright colour on the intense green
of the Sedum was a very pleasing sight. He-
paticas are beautiful just at present, a thoroughly
good early old English flower that is not half
enough grown. They are not at home in all
situations, and are never likely to be satisfactory
if planted right out in the open border, especially
if that border is much exposed and the soil is a
bit dry and light. The best lot of Hepaticas I
remember to have seen was growing on a low
rockery that had been tastefully made on a narrow
stretch of lawn in a sheltered spot not far from a
running stream. The soil, naturally a good loam,
had been deeply dug and well prepared. The old
double red and double blue varieties make charm-
ing button-hole flowers, anything in this way
being at times a relief from the more elaborate
arrangements obtained from stove and green-
house. Given a favourable time, we shall soon
welcome the first flowers of the alpine Phloxes,
and the green carpet will quickly be changed into
sheets of white, mauve, pink, rose, and lilac.
There is a strange difference in the requirements
of these Phloxes and the Hepaticas, for whereas
the latter, as mentioned above, like a sheltered,
moist, and shady spot and need a bit of good soil,

APiiiL 13, 1895.

THE GARDEN

249

the Phloxes will be seen quite at their best on
dry, poor borders, banks, or slopes. Another
early-flowering plant that adapts itself readily to
similar situations is the perennial Candytuft ; in-
deed, this seems to flower with the greatest profu-
sion on poor borders.

Naturalisation of hardy flowers. — It may
not be out of place to refer thus early in the
season to this subject, and to suggest the advisa-
bility of keeping a sharp watch on all the different
species with which experiments have been made
with the view to ascertain, both from their habit
of growth and from the profusion or scantiness
with which flower is produced, whether they are
in congenial quarters and are likely to be a per-
manent success. This latter is essential in

of varieties of similar species with which one has
to deal. E. Burrell.

Claremont.

Trees and Shrubs.

THE VINES.

(VITIS.)

There is, perhaps, no feature in the adornment
of our gardens and woodlands where the gar-
j dener's art can be more effectively displayed
than in the use of climbing shrubs. There is a
peculiar charm about tbese plants which no

Wild Grape Vines in the Upper San Joaquin Valley, California.

naturalisation. Puny, sickly growth, with here
and there a flower, is just as much a failure as
from a purely natural standpoint is the indis-
criminate grouping of varieties of any particular
species that may vary greatly in many features.
The natural requirements of plants must be the
first consideration, and there is no doubt that many
failures in naturalisation may be traced to the
lack of careful observance of such primary rules,
resulting not only in a loss of time and labour, but
in a display that is mean and poor instead of
bright and natural. True guides as to where to
plant are obtainable not only in the writings of
those who have been successful, but often in the
careful study of the habitat and surroundings of
the inmates of our fields, hedges and woodlands,
and a deduction from this as to the requirements

other class possesses to the same degree. It is
due to their surpassing grace, and to some ex-
tent also, no doubt, to the strong suggestion
they give of the luxuriance that more especially
belongs to the vegetation of warmer, sun-
nier lands than ours. Our indebtedness is
shown in this, as in every other branch of
ornamental gardening, to the floras of other
countries, and in the beautiful genus with
which in this paper I have to deal there is not
a single species that is a native of Great Britain
or even of Europe. The Grape Vines and the
Ampelopsis (now included under Vitis) are, in
regard to hardy species, represented most
strongly in North America and Northern Asia,

to a less degree only in Asia Minor. Except in
the case of the Hop-leaved Vine hereafter men-
tioned, it is not for the beauty of the fruit that
the wild types of Vitis are grown in these
islands. It is their luxuriant habit, surpassing
grace, and wealth of handsome foliage, which
in several instances affords the richest of au-
tumnal colours— yellows, purples, and crimsons
— that constitute their great value.

Some thirty species are at present in cultiva-
tion that can be grown out of doors in the
southern parts of this country, a very small
proportion, of course, of the total number of
species known, most of which are semi or purely
tropical. They are all of climbing or rambling
habit, and their variety in foliage and different
degrees of vigour in growth enable one or other
of them to be employed for almost every pur-
pose to which climbers may be put. Whilst
some are especially valuable for the walls of
houses, others may be used for covering arbours,
pergolas, the pillars of verandahs, old tree
stumps, or sloping banks. In the case of the
stronger, taller-growing species they may be
made to clamber over living trees. Little need
be said on the matter of cultivation. They
are moisture-loving plants, and require liberal
treatment at the root. Where space is limited
they can be kept at any required size by means
of pruning, but the most luxuriant effects are,
of course, obtained where they can ramble
without let or hindrance. Where they are in-
tended to spread over living trees, they should
always be planted sufficiently far away from the
trunk to allow rain and light to reach them.
Success, too, will be better assured by giving
them a pocket of good rich soil to start in.
In the majority of the species increase can be
accomplished by means of cuttings or by single
" eyes," treated like those of the common
Grape Vine. Some, however, are very obdu-
rate and can only be increased by means of
seeds. Layering will occasionally prove suc-
cessful with those that refuse to root from cut-
tings. Grafting should only be resorted to as
a last resource.

In the following enumeration of species the
nomenclature adopted is that of the recently
published "List of Hardy Trees and Shrubs"
at Kew. The generic titles of Ampelopsis and
Cissus are therefore sunk under Vitis.

North American.

V. quinquefolia (Ampe-
lopsis)
q. var. incisa
q. var. hirsuta
q. var. muralis
riparia

r. var. palmata
rupestris
striata (Cissus)
vulpina

Asiatic.

V. inconstans (Amp.
Veitchi)
japonica
orientalis
Romaneti

seriana-folia (Ampe-
lopsis)
Thunbergi
vinifera

v. var. laciniosa
Spinovitis Davidi

V. aestivalis
arborea
arizonica
Berlandieri
californica
cindicans
Champini
cinerea
cord i folia
Labrusca

V. aconitaefolia
amurensis
capreolata (Cissus)
Coignetiaj
ficifolia
flexuosa
heterophylla
h. var. humulifolia
h. var. variegata
himalayana(Ampelop
sis)

American Species.

V. aestivalis (Summer Grape). — This species is
probably the oldest of North American Grape
Vines cultivated in England, having been intro-
duced in 1656. It is described as abounding in
wastes and woodlands. The leaves are broadly
cordate, more or less deeply three to five-lobed

250

THE GARDEN'

[April 13, 1895.

being of a deep green colour when old, but in a
young state covered on the lower surface with a
reddish down. They measure from 4 inches to 6
inches across, the marginal teeth being broad and
shallow. The berries are small — about the size of
Black Currants — but have been improved by cul-
tivation. The larger-leaved forms of this variable
species are sometimes mistaken for V. Labrusca,
but a ready distinction is afforded in the arrange-
ment of the tendrils. In V. a-stivalis the tendril
is missing from every third joint, but in V. Labrusca
there is (with rare exceptions) a tendril or fruit-
stalk at every joint.

V. californica. — This is, so far as my experi-
ence goes, the best of the American Grape Vines
(i.e., excluding the Ampelopsis) for colouring in
autumn. It is one of the strongest growers,
climbing in its native home over lofty trees. Its
leaves, which turn a deep crimson in autumn,
especially after a summer like that of 1893, are
rounded and covered with down.

V. cordifolia (Frost or Winter Grape). — A
strong, vigorous-growing plant with thin, three-
lobed, cordate leaves, measuring 3 inches to 6
inches in diameter, the lobes ending in a long,
fine point, the coarse teeth being also sharply
pointed. The berries are black and only palat-
able after they have been subjected to frost, hence
the common name of Frost Grape. A moisture-
loving Vine, affecting in a wild state the banks of
streams. It has the same arrangement of the
tendrils alluded to in V. a-stivalis.

V. riparia is a near ally to the preceding, and
by some authorities is reduced to a variety of it.
The leaves are larger than those of V. cordifolia
,although the plant itself is smaller), smooth and
shining, with long pointed teeth. The sweet,
Mignonette-like perfume of the flowers of many
American Vines is in this species especially
apparent. The variety palmata (V. palmata,
Vahl.) has the branchlets and frequently the
petioles of a red colour. It was cultivated in the
Jardin des Plantes at Paris well back into the
last century, and is conjectured to have been sent
to France by the French missionaries who were
amongst the earliest plant-collectors in the Mis-
sissippi region.

V. Labrusca (Northern Fox Grape). — Before
the introduction of V. Coignetia: this was perhaps
the most striking and effective of the true Grape
Vines in cultivation in Britain. Its leaves are
amongst the largest, both they and the young
branchlets being covered on the under surface
with a rusty -coloured or sometimes whitish down.
They are of stout texture and vary considerably
in shape, sometimes entire, sometimes deeply
lobed. There is almost invariably a tendril or a
fruit-stalk opposite each leaf, constituting thedis'
tinction between this and the four species pre-
viously mentioned, which has already been re-
ferred to. In a wild state the fruit has a musky
flavour, but by cultivation it has been much im-
proved, and numerous varieties of the species are
grown in the United States. Englemann says that
although not large as a rule, it occasionally reaches
the tops of high trees. In England it proves to
be a strong grower and deserves a high place
amongst ornamental climbers.

V. VULPINA (the Southern Fox Grape). — Avery
distinct and handsome species, differing from the
American species already enumerated in its close
bark, which does not peel off. The leaves are
small ("2 inches to 3 inches across) and rounded,
usually smooth and shining on both surfaces, and
although coarsely toothed, rarely distinctly lobed.
The species is worthy of note, as its small, bright
green leaves may be used as an effective contrast
with those of the Labrusca and Coignetia» types,
or may prove suitable in situations to which the
larger-leaved species would not be adapted. Other
American Grape Vines worth growing, but possess-
ing no particular value beyond those already
described, are V. rupestris, arizonica and cinerea
(the downy Grape), all of which are in the Kew
collection.

V. QtriNQUEFOLlA. — This, the far-famed Vir-
ginian Creeper, is better known as Ampelopsis

according to Loudon, in 1(129, it has during the
long period of its cultivation in this country
become almost as well known as any of our native
climbers. So far as autumn colour is concerned it
is the finest of the American Vines, its foliage
changing in the fall of the year to various shades
of crimson, scarlet and purple. The leaves con-
sist of five (occasionally one or two less) leaflets,
which are broadly lanceolate, with a few coarse
teeth on the terminal half. For covering arbours,
walls, verandahs or old tree stumps there is no
climber which produces so luxuriant an effect in
so short a time as the Virginian Creeper does.
The following varieties are in cultivation : Major,
incisa, hirsuta. Their distinctive characters are
indicated by the names. Deserving of more de-
tailed mention is Ampelopsis muralis, a name
current in this country and on the Continent,
whilst the same plant is known in America as
Vitis Englemanni. It is a distinct form of the
Virginian Creeper, possessing the same shaped
leaves and developing equally, or even more,
brilliant autumnal colours. Unlike the ordinary
form, however, which requires support if it is in-
tended to cover a wall, this is self-supporting, and
will attach itself as firmly to any suitable surface
as V. inconstans does.

V. arborea (Ampelopsis bipinnata). — A species
of considerable beauty of foliage, differing from
any other North American species here men-
tioned in having bipinnate leaves. The numerous
leaflets constituting a single leaf are small and
deeply toothed. It is not a quick grower in this
country, and is naturally of a shorter and more
bushy growth than is characteristic of the Vines
generally. Introduced from the S. United States
in 1700.

Asiatic Species.

Vitis Coicneti.-e. — So far as this country is con-
cerned, this is the newest and in some respects
the most beautiful of all the Vines. It is a native
of Northern Japan, its nearest ally under cultiva-
tion being the North American V. Labrusca.
For many years a Vine clambering over a tall
Pine in Mr. Anthony Waterer's nursery at Knap
Hill has been at once a puzzle and a delight to all
who have seen it. The foliage before falling turns
a glorious crimson, making one of the most beau-
tiful of autumn garden pictures. Up to within
the last year or so, however, its identity could
never be ascertained, no specimens in herbaria or
in living collections exactly matching it. There
is now every reason to believe that it is Vitis
Coignetia;, of which numerous plants have been
lately raised in this country from seeds collected
in Japan. The under-surface of the leaf is covered
with a woolly down, which in Mr. Waterer's
specimen is reddish brown ; the colour, however,
varies ; in someinstancesitis nearly white, butsimi-
lar variations are met with in other species. The
species is named in honour of Mme. Coignet, who
gathered the seeds in the mountains of Northern
Japan, and sent them to France in 1875. Seeds
were again introduced to that country in 18S4,
but until recently very few plants appear to have
reached England. We may now hope that in a few
years' time it will constitute one of themost strik-
ing features of our gardens in autumn. The
leaves are cordate, irregularly toothed, and
measure each from (5 inches to 10 inches across. In
size of leaf and vigour of growth it is at least the
equal of any other Vine in cultivation. It has
hitherto proved difficult to propagate by the
usual methods of eyes and cuttings, and with only
very limited success when layered. It can be
grafted on several of the American species, but in
view of its superior vigour that is not likely to be
a satisfactory method, and now that it is well
known there is no likelihood of a dearth of seeds
sent direct from Japan.

V. heterophylla (also grown as V. brevi-
pedunculata). — The Hop-leaved Vine, which is
the variety of V. heterophylla known as humuli-
folia, is the most generally grown and most
beautiful of the various forms of this species.
Unlike any of the species hitherto mentioned, it
has, besides its handsome foliage, the additional

quinquefolia, or as A. hederacea. Introduced, 1 recommendation of producing m autumn a pro

fusion of pretty turquoise-blue berries. The leaves
are smaller than in the common heterophylla and
are usually more deeply lobed. This Vine re-
quires in most places a position on a wall in order
to induce it to fruit with proper freedom, and
appears to succeed better where it is restricted
for root room. It was originally discovered by
Dr. Bunge in North China, but has since been
found in Japan and Corea. A variegated form of
V. heterophj'lla is very pretty, the foliage being
mottled with white or faint pink. A sheltered,
sunny position is necessary to develop the varie-
gation to its full extent.

V. inconstans (syns., Ampelopsis Veitchi and
A. tricuspidata). — The unfamiliar name here given
is the one that properly belongs to the plant so
well known as Ampelopsis Veitchi. It is themost
beautiful of all the species in the Ampelopsis
section of the genus, and for covering walls has
no rival. As is the case with so many of the
Vines, this shows great variety in the shape of
the leaves. In young plants the leaves are small
and very often scarcely lobed at all, whilst in
older ones they are cut into three lobes and occa-
sionally into the same number of separate, short-
stalked leaflets. This tendency to variation shows
itself also in the colours the leaves put on in
autumn. In the best forms the foliage assumes
various rich tints of purplish red and crimson ;
whereas others have a large admixture of brown
in the colouring. There is also a form whose
foliage has a bronzy hue more or less throughout
the season, but especially when young. This
climber is planted abundantly in Oxford, and
more than once have I been charmed in autumn
by the glorious masses of rich colour on some of
the walls and gateways of the college quadrangles.
It is a plant of the very easiest propagation by
means of cuttings. A native of Japan and intro-
duced about 1868.

V. Romaneti is a species of recent introduction,
and one which promises to prove very distinct
and vigorous in habit. It has large leaves, of
much the same size and shape as those of V.
Coignetia;, but it differs from all the Vines in cul-
tivation (except Spinovitis Davidi) in having the
branches and petioles covered with bristles or
stout hairs. It was discovered by the Abbe
David in the Shen-si province of China.

Spinovitis Davidi is nearly allied to V. Ro-
maneti, having the same bristly or even prickly
character. Carriere says, however, that seed-
lings raised in France exhibit much variation in
this matter, the bark of some being perfectly
smooth. In any case the character is not one of
sufficient importance to justify the creation of
another generic name. In the Kew list of trees
and shrubs it is referred (under a query) to V.
vinifera. It was found by the Abbe David in the
Shen-si province. Both this and V. Romaneti
assume purplish red autumn tints.

V. vinifera. — Of the numerous varieties of the
common Grape Vine the following may be alluded
to: Purpurea. — This is one of the deepest purple-
foliaged plants we possess. Although the colour
becomes most intense in autumn the leaves have
a bronzy purple tinge from the first. It is not so
quick a grower as the ordinary form. Var.
laciniosa or apiifolia is the Parsley -leaved Vine.
Its leaves are very deeply cut, frequently into
several leaflets, which are again deeply lobed.
Besides these there are the Miller's Grape, with
smallish leaves covered with white down, and the
"Teinturier" Grape, the leaves of which assume a
beautiful claret colour before they fall.

Brief mention may be made of the following
Asiatic species : V. ficifolia, a distinct plant
with small round-lobed leaves like those of the
Fig ; V. flexuosa, V. Thunbergi, whose foliage
turns red in autumn ; and V. serianrefolia, an
interesting species of the Ampelopsis grovjp,
with tuberous roots like a Dahlia, and with pal-
mate or bipinnate foliage. All these are natives
of China and Japan. V. liinialayana is a North
Indian species with striking trifoliate leaves.

W. J. Bean.

Aprii 1'3, 189 ).l

THE GARDEN.

251

THE POPLARS.

The fallowing species and varieties of Poplars
are now in cultivation : —

Poruws canadensis or monolifera (the Cana-
dian or Swiss Poplar).— A well-known and easily
distinguished species.

P. c. var. regenere (or Peuplier regenere).—
This is of a much more branching habit than the
type, and grows etraighter and more vigorously,
attaining in fifteen years as large a size as the type
does in twenty years. As a timber tree it is very
highly thought of. Being very much in request,
some growers have attempted to sell it under
various new names, amongst which we may men-
tion Peuplier Eucalyptus, under which title we
have seen it shown at a great exhibition. It is one
of the most valuable varieties of Poplar.

P. c. aurea Van Geertl — A variety with gol-
den-coloured foliage.

P. hybrida berolinensis (the Berlin Poplar).
— A hybrid between Populus laurifolia and P.
canadensis, distinguished from the last-named
species by its more pyramidal habit of growth
and its longer and slenderer branches. The
leaves also are broader and the roots do not
spread so much.

P. laurifolia viminalis. — This is not a vigor-
ous-growing species, and is not cultivated to any
great extent. It is of slow growth, with a low,
tufted habit and peculiar looking leaves.

P. certinensis. — An Asiatic species, as yet rare
in cultivation. Leaves elongated and glistening,
a novel feature in the genus Populus.

P. Fremonti. — A species with elongated leaves,
received quite recently from Colorado.

P. grandidentata. — A North American species
with broad, dentate leaves.

P. B. pendula. — A variety of the preceding with
weeping branches.

P. heterophylla. — Leaves heart shaped. In-
troduced from N. America, and as yet not gener-
ally known by the trade.

P. Simoni. — Foliage very distinct. Introduced
from China.

P. ANGUSTIFOLIA. — A small-sized tree, with
shoots of a light yellowish grey colour and
lanceolate leaves. Introduced very recently from
Colorado.

P. Medus.e — Introduced from N. America.

P. Eugenit. — A peculiar-looking tree, of very
rapid growth and pyramidal habit.

P. tremvla (the Aspen or Athenian Poplar). —
An indigenous species, growing to a very large
size, and owing its specific name to the tremulous
motion of its leaves when stirred by the gentlest
wind. It grows well in all kinds of soil, and
especially so in soils of a light character, sending
out its roots to great distances and producing
numerous suckers.

P. tremvla pendula.— A variety of the pre-
ceding species, with weeping branches.

P. alba (the Abele or White Poplar). — A well-
known indigenous species.

P. alba nivea (the White Butch Poplar). — An
improved variety of the preceding species, re-
markable for the snow-white colour of its leaves
and bark.

P. ALBA MACROPHYLLA. — The leaves of this are
broader than those of the preceding variety.

P. alba pendula. — A variety of P. alba with
weeping branches.

P. BoLLEANA vyramidalis. — A remarkable and
valuable variety, not much known as yet. A
nurseryman of Calvados states that he was the first
to receive this from a Russian botanist who was
collecting in the Caucasus. Stolen from this
nurseryman by one of his employe's and sold to
a firm at Orleans, it was first sent out by this firm.

P. CANINENSIS or (ANEscENS. — A species indi-
genous in Normandy. Leaves like those of P.
tremula, but broader, whitish and smooth. Not
knowing the scientific name of this species. I had
it identified. About ten years ago a small shoot
of it chanced to spring up in the heath soil of a
plantation of Rhododendrons, where I allowed it
to remain, and the tree now measures about 14
inches in girth and is a splendid specimen.

I P. nivea aureo-intertexta.— A variety the
leaves of which aie variegated with golden col-
oured interlacings.

P. candicans or balsamifera (Ontario Poplar).
— A handsome, ereet-growing species with large
leaves, the glutinous buds of which give out a
strong balsamic odour in spring.

P. CANDICANS ELOKGATA. — Ad interesting variety
of the preceding species, or, according to Professor
Dippel, the offspring of a cross with P. laurifolia.

P. TBICHOCARPA.— A new kind from N. America,
with still broader leaves than those of P. candi-
cans.

P. tristis. — Another variety of P. candicans
with small leaves, dwarf habit of growth, rugose
bark, and foliage of a very dark tint from its first
appearance.

P. angulata or MACROPHYLLA. — Bark thick and
angularly ridged. The leaves of this species are
larger than those of any other known Poplar.

P. suaveulens. — A sub- variety of P. candicans
with shorter branches and stouter buds, giving
out a still more powerful odour than its parent
does.

P. nigra betul.efolia. — Resembles the Italian
Poplar, but has smaller leaves like those of the
Birch tree.

P. fastigiata (the Lombardy Poplar). — Well
known as the most pyramidal in growth of all
the Poplars.

P. FASTIGIATA ROBUSTA. — A new and improved
variety of the preceding species, which it excels
in vigour of growth. It is anticipated that it has
before it a future of note.

P. PLANTIERIENSIS MASCULA AND P. P. F(KMINA.

— Forms of the Lombardy Poplar, of which the sex
has been fixed by arboriculturists.

In addition to the foregoing we may mention
P. cordata and P. rotundifolia, varieties whose
specific names sufficiently indicate the pecu-
liarities of their foliage, and, concluding with the
famous P. euphratica, we think we shall have
enumerated all the kinds of Poplars which are
now known. This last-named species was sent
to us from the country of Salix babylonica a
few years ago, and is as yet hardly known to
European planters. It appears to be an ex-
ceedingly singular kind of tree, as when it is
fully grown its foliage undergoes an extraordi-
nary transformation, and travellers inform us
that the same tree will exhibit on its lower
branches leaves as round as those of the Judas
tree (Cercis siliquaatium), while the leaves on
the upper branches-have all the appearance of
Willow leaves. — Letellier et Firs, Caen (Cal-
i) Frwnee.

Rhododendron Queen of Dwarfs. — Where
small plants are required this is one of the very
best varieties in cultivation, for it is of a neat,
bushy habit of growth and will flower profusely
when little more than 1 foot high. The in-
dividual flowers are white, with the edges of the
petals prettily crimped, and they are borne in
such a compact rounded cluster as at a little dis-
tance to appear like one bloom. This particular
variety was raised by Mr. Davis, of Ormskirk.
One of its parents was R. multiflorum, and from
it the dwarf habit and remarkable full flowering
character of many of his hybrids have been derived.
A second variety from the same source is Bridal
Bouquet, which appears to be even dwarfer than
the last-named and with rather smaller flowers of
the purest white. These two forms are only
slightly fragrant, but the Ormskirk seedlings
with scented blossoms are now well known and
largely grown. Of these, the weakest grower,
Countess of Derby, has the finest blossoms, but all
are very beautiful. The other scented varieties
are Countess of Sefton, Duchess of Sutherland,
Lady Skelmersdale and Mrs. James Shaw, all of
w hich will flower well in pots 5 inches in diameter
and upwards. These Rhododendrons should bo
struck from cuttings and stopped freely during
their earlier stages in order to ensure a bushy
habit of growth. A little more warmth than that

required for established specimens may be given
to the young plants at first, as they will grow
more rapidly so treated, but thrips are liable to
be a trouble if too much fire-heat is used. Even
in pots only 5 inches in diameter the plants will
remain in good health for two or three years with-
out repotting, provided a reasonable amount of
care is taken of them. A very good plan with
Rhododendrons of this class is, after flowering to
keep them in the greenhouse for a time, giving
them frequent syringings ; then in the summer
they can be plunged out of doors in a sunny spot.
LTpon the treatment then given them depends
the future display of bloom, for they need to be
carefully watered, above all being particular that
they are not allowed to suffer from want of water,
and a good syringing when the heat of the day is
past will also be of great service. The plants
may occasionally be turned round in order to ex-
pose the whole of the plant to the same amount
of sunshine, thus ensuring the thorough ripening
of the wood and consequent display of bloom.
For plunging material good cocoa-nut fibre refuse
is the best.— H. P.

Daphne Blagayana.— Among a group of
plants exhibited by Mr. T. S. Ware, of Totten-
ham, at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society on March '20 was a pan of this Daphne,
and very pretty it was, the fragrance of its
flowers being especially noticeable. It is a dis-
tinct and pretty species, not much known even
now, though it was first discovered by Count
Blagay on his estate at Lorenzburg, in Carniola,
as long ago as L837. When a coloured plate of it
was given in The Garden, August 31, 1878, it
was almost unknown in this country. It is not
invariably seen in a flourishing state, and I have
found apparently healthy specimens die off in a
few days without any visible cause. This Daphne
is of a loose, straggling habit of growth, the
creamy white floweis, which become purer in tint
after a few days' expansion, being borne in small,
compact clusters on the points of nearly every
shoot. It does well as a rockwork shrub, that is,
where the roots are so situated that they are at
no time dried up, and partial shade seems to suit
it well. When the roots are in the fissures of a
rock they will travel downwards for a consider-
able distance, and are then rendered independent
of superficial moisture. It is usually propagated
by grafting, but from its spreading, partly pro-
cumbent habit of growth, layering can be readily
carried out, and plants obtained in this way are
more likely to form permanent specimens than
those grafted. In the open ground the usual time
for this Daphne to bloom is during the month of
April or May.— T.

Churchyard plants. — The illustration on
page 188 recalls to mind a query that appeared
last year in The Garden as to the most suitable
trees and shrubs for churchyard planting and a
suggestion that there are many things that might
be used instead of relying on the few formal trees
usually associated with such planting. I think
Spirsa ari.efolia was included in the list : if not, it
certainly deserves a place, being one of the best
shrubs of English gardens. It may be used as a
single specimen on the grass or grouped in the
foreground with larger deciduous or evergreen
trees. Its feathery plumes are, for instance, seen
to great ad\antage when backed by the foliage of
the English Yew. Rhus Cotinus is another
feathery shrub that can be used in a similar posi-
tion. Other shrubs that make very nice single
specimens from S feet to 10 feet high and that arc
very beautiful when in full bloom are the double
form of Deutzia scabra and the Virginian Fringe
Tree. Two plants of somewhat larger habit one
could safely recommend are the double-flowering
Almond and the Snowy Mespilus. All the fore-
going are of light, graceful habit, and I think
this should be one of the first considerations in
selecting trees and shrubs for churchyard or ceme-
tery planting. There are not many native i.<_-
ciduous trees suitable, and, indeed, most of the
exotics would attain to too great a size unless kept
within bounds by occasional pruning. If this
could be done with care and discrimination so as

252

THE GARDEN.

jArmi. 13.: 1695.

not to destroy the symmetry of the tree, an occa-
sional deciduous Magnolia, Salisburia and a few
of the best Acers might be used. The objection
to trees of a sombre, formal appearance would
apply respectively to Pines, Thujas and most of
the Abies. Cedrus atlantica and the deciduous
Cypress would rank among the most graceful of
the Conifenv, and Abies Menziesi is by no means
a formal tree, but I find it is a little particular in
the matter of soil, plants getting very ragged
with us after growing a little over 30 feet. —
E Burrell, Claremont.

THE NOBLEST OF EVERGREEN
CLIMBERS.
Mr. Burbidoe wrote to us during the frost from
the Botanic Gardens, Trinity College, Dublin,
that he had just gathered over sixty varieties of
the Ivy. This is a very instructive fact for all
who care for beautiful hardy plants. Surely
nothing that comes from the tropics or any other
country can be more delightful than these Ivies
may be made by those who grow and place them
well. They are so simply grown, that few people
ever think of the best ways of placing them so as
to get a fair idea of their great beauty.

In many parts of North America and Northern
and Central Europe the Ivy is not hardy, and
people would give much for the privilege, which
we may enjoy, of making really artistic things of
these beautiful hardy northern climbers. We
know that Ivy generally grows on a wall, and per-
haps it cannot grow on anything better ; but it is
by no means the only use for it. Many people
fear Ivy on trees. We should not hesitate to
allow Ivy to grow on trees of secondary value,
and, if not allowed to overrun the tree entirely, it
will not do it much harm. That is only one way.
Sunk fences, banks, walls, are all places in which
we may plant our Ivies; and another pretty,
though very much neglected, way ia that of
making screens of Ivy instead of the wretched
hedges of Privet we often see cutting up gardens.
Where a screen is needed, nothing is more beauti-
ful for it than almost any kind of Ivy. The one
most commonly used in that way, and by no
means the best, is the Irish Ivy, which is so popu-
lar in Continental gardens; but it is better to
make a change and use other kinds for this pur-
pose. The screens we speak of are easily formed
with trellis-work of any kind — iron, stout wire,
Oak slabs, or any like material that may be
handiest. Planted in fairly rich ground, the
Ivies in a few years will cover the screen. Another
plan we like very much is that of growing the
choicer kinds of Ivy as pyramids, each on a stout
prop, the shoots falling down gracefully. Ivy is
very charming in all ways. Where there is a
large area of dead walls it is a very wise thing to
use so valuable a plant for covering them. Why,
instead of the thatch and the rotten things we
use for bowers and the like, should we not form
wigwams and bowers of this delightful evergreen?
Construct a stout and simple framework of the
desired shape, and in a belt of good soil round the
base plant one or more good forms of Ivy, and
leave the rest to time. A roof of Ivy would be
very much pleasanter than many things that are
used for this purpose, and would not decay in the
offensive way common to such thatching material
as Heath, straw and Reed. The roof should be
well tied together, and an occasional clipping of
the Ivy will suffice to keep it out of the power of
the wind. We are not sure that, with a little
patience and care, it could not be made to do for
sheltered sheds in pastures, instead of faggots and
other rough material commonly used ; and where
a sheltered shed is placed near a wood, as is very
often the case, the body of the shed might be
built back into the wood, so as to leave only the
front exposed to the field, and in that way we
should protect our Ivy from browsing animals.

Another interesting phase of the question is
the tree forms of the Ivy, which must not be sup-
posed to be distinct kinds, as the Ivy itself when
fully grown and exposed is very apt to take this

form. The form we generally see is the Ivy in its
creeping state, but when it gets fully developed
it breaks out into what we call the tree form,
which gives another opportunity to enjoy the
variety of aspects of this plant. All Ivies are
good until we come to the wretched variegated
kinds, which are not worth growing ; collections
of these are sure to disappoint ; the so-called
variegation is only disease, and it is almost as
well that it is so, because if such things grew
freely the effect would be far from beautiful-
hard, spotty, and unnatural.

Among the more beautiful forms cut on the
occasion referred to, without noticing the curious
splashed kinds, there are the himalaica or North-
ern Indian Ivy, a very pretty form ; atro-pur-
purea, a leathery looking leaf, and very dark ;
azorica, a very leathery, Vine-like leaf ; triloba
or tridentata, a handsome arrow-shaped leaf ;
obovata, a very pretty slightly bronzed leaf ;
palmata, a most graceful Ivy for a tree or wall ;
H. amurensis, a tall, very vigorous kind ; scutata,
or Shield Ivy ; H. Ra-gneriana, what they call
the old Irish Abbey Ivy, an immense Aralia-like
leaf, much larger than what is called the Irish
Ivy ; dentata, a very graceful leaf, massive and
leathery too ; algeriensis rhomboidea, a spoon-
shaped and very distinct leaf, and so on through
a long list, scarcely one of which is not a distinct
and valuable climbing shrub. It would, of course,
be possible to make a very delightful garden of
these Ivies alone on walls, rocks, or even the ordi-
nary surface of the ground, with groups of For-
sythias or Japan Pear, or any other hardy flower-
ing shrubs one might care for among them. —
Field.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1009.

CYPRIPEDIUM CHARLES WO RTHI.

(with a coloured plate.*)

Among the host of novel and beautiful Cy-
pripediums introduced within the last few
years the subject of the accompanying plate
takes a very high position. It was originally
imported by Messrs. Charlesworth, Shuttle-
worth and Co., of Heaton, Bradford, from the
East Indies, and when exhibited by them at
the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting at
the Drill Hall in September, 1893, was awarded
a first-class certificate by the Orchid committee.
That it was deserving of this distinction there
can be no doubt, as it is a decidedly beautiful
species, and one that is rapidly becoming popu-
lar. As will be seen by the illustration, the
dorsal sepal is very distinct and differs from
that of most other known kinds. The pure
white staminode is also a noteworthy charac-
teristic of the species. In growth it somewhat
resembles C. Spicerianum, but the leaves are
marked on the back with rows of dots of a
brownish purple tint. Although not a very
robust grower, the culture of C. Charlesworthi
presents no special difficulty. A shady position
in a warm, moist house is essential, and the
compost may consist of loam fibre, good peat,
and chopped Sphagnum Moss in about equal
proportions, keeping this in an open condition
by a liberal admixture of finely broken crocks,
charcoal, and a few pieces of limestone. Until
the plants are thoroughly established it is safer
in potting to elevate them a little, as this pre-
vents the possibility of water collecting about
the axils of the leaves, which is so often pro-
ductive of injury to newly-imported Cypripe-
diums. A thin compost will also suffice at first,
the additional drainage being an advantage, as
an abundant supply of water is necessary when

the roots are well on the move. The best
thanks of orchidists are due to the above-men-
tioned firm for the introduction of this exquisite
species, and as they have apparently imported
it in quantity, we may confidently expect many
variations from the type as the plants flower.
Probably it has been taken in hand by the
hybridists ere this, and it will no doubt be
frequently heard of as one of the parents of
future hybrids. R.

* Drawn for The Garden at the Royal Gardens,
Kew, by H. G. Moon. November 23, 1894. Litho-
graphed and printed by Guillaume Severeyna.

The Week's Work.

HARDY FRUITS.

Peaches and Nectarines. — Trees on warm
southern aspects will now be bursting into full
bloom, and where they are left unnailei as long
as possible there should be no further delay in nail-
ing and getting the protecting materials in position.
In nailing, use new shreds, as old ones are not free
from insect pests. Young trees are often much
injured by being given too little space to develop.
In training allow ample space for the laying in of
next season's wood. Peaches and Nectarines given
free play -in the way of extension are much less
subject to disease. Nailing this season is con-
siderably later, and many may think my advice
full late. I am never in a great hurry to do it, as
though the trees may be studded with fruit-buds,
by careful handling they are readily placed in
position, and with dull, sunless weather are best
left unnailed to the last possible date. Last sea-
son the trees were in full bloom by this date and
some fruits set, showing that it is necessary to
do the work advised according to season. Some
trees flower earlier, but I always leave nailing to
the latest moment, then do it quickly, and protect
when finished. Trees requiring much pruning
should not be left till this latedate ; pruning may be
done earlier, as advised in former notes, but there
is little pruning needed if the trees get tho neces-
sary thinning and removal of old fruiting wood as
soon as the crop is cleared. If shortening back last
season's wood has been neglected, it is well to
observe that fruiting wood should be cut back to
a wood-bud. It is not always easy to determine
what are fruit-buds, and in that case the fruit
should be removed at the end of the shoot when
visible, and the nearest shoot allowed to grow.
In training it is well to bear in mind that gross
shoots do not produce fruit, and in some cases total
removal would be better.

Vines on walls. — These are often used as a
cover for naked walls, but in few instances are
they grown for the fruit, as in our variable climate
the fruit cannot be depended upon to ripen.
Many plants are so much neglected that ripening
is out of the question, as the roots are never given
any food and the shoots get too thick. Good
crops may be secured by growing the canes on the
single or double cordon system and pruning back
to spurs, giving the roots food in the way of liquid
manure and surface dressings of soil and manure.
Now is a good time to remove useless wood, giving
the strong or new shoots ample space. Starved
canes cannot be expected to make good wood, and
a much better result would be obtained by liberal
top-dressing at this season, taking away old surface
soil till the roots are reached, and giving new in
the way of good turfy loam, bone meal, wood
ashes and manures.

Apricots. — Many trees will now be in full bloom,
so that any notes as regards covering and protect-
ing the trees will be late, but where these fruits
are grown under glass covers or protectors I would
give timely advice as to moisture. For the past
two months the rainfall has been very slight.
Few trees fail sooner than Apricots ; the roots of
healthy vigorous trees should be on the surface,
and though watering may not reasonably be ex-
pected to begin for some weeks, it is well to see
that the protection does not rob the trees of
moisture, and to supply the deficiency. Any work
left undone in the way of surface dressings to wall

^>

April 13, 1695.]

THE GARDEN

253

trees may be done; indeed, now is a good time
to give food in the way of surface soil mixed
with rich fertilisers, as the trees being on the
move will call upon the roots for more food.
Apricot trees are gross feeders, if the term can be
used. They require much food in the way of
frequent surface dressings, much moisture during
growth and keeping the roots active at the
surface. It is much better to obtain a luxuriant
growth than to just keep the trees alive. In
protecting late trees give only a light airy cover-
ing, as too much causes a weak bloom, which
though it may set soon turns yellow and drops.
Trees in favourable positions and full of vigour
will well repay lightening of the crop at the earliest
moment possible after setting.

Cherries, Tears and Plums.— The first-named
will require a light cover, as birds are troublesome
near towns. Small birds do much injury just
before the blossoms open and in a few days will
spoil all chance of a crop. It is well also to pro-
tect choice early kinds from cutting winds and
frost. The Cherry being the earliest fruit to
ripen is always valued on that account. For
covering I use a small square mesh fish net,
doubled or trebled according to the position of
the trees, and there is no necessity for the nets,
or whatever covering is used, to reach the bottom
of the wall by at least 3 feet. This allows
anyone to get at the trees, but to protect
from birds it is not of service, as the nets must be
fastened to the wall. Pears on gable ends of
buildings or walls are often shorn of their crop
as many kinds bloom early. With these, different
means to protect must be adopted. I have used
Fir branches, and scrim canvas cut in widths and
run along the main shoots will save early bloom.
Choice cordon Pears well repa3r a little care at
this season. The walls of these may be covered
in the same way as advised for Peaches or
Apricots, but whatever covering is employed it
should freely admit light and air. Plums, though
often left to take their chance, may often be
covered readily by the same material which has
been used for Peaches or Apricots. It frequently
happens that the earlier bloom is safe and there
is little frost, but later a severe frost does injury
to Plums, Pears and late fruits that might be
saved by protection.

Fk;s. — The covering used for these trees should
now be removed and pruning done, the shoots
regulated and placed in position for fruiting. In
an earlier note I advised partial uncovering, sj
as to inure the trees gradually : but the trees
should not be left longer, pruning being necessary,
and the warm sun will soon cause the new wood
to grow freely. Trees that have been tied
together so as to save space in covering will re-
quire some care in selection of best wood to fur-
nish the wall. It cannot be seen at this date
which are the best fruiting shoots of last year's
growth, but there need be little pruning if these
were kept thin last autumn and the wood
thoroughlj' matured. Should the trees be at all
thick, it is an easy matter to go over them as soon
as the fruits show, removing any shoots that are
barren. In no case should sucker growth be
allowed on trees having a good quantity of lead-
ing branches. At times one must resort to suckers
if frost cripples the older wood. In nailing keep
the trees quite close to the walls, as they get more
warmth and can be more readily protected.
Old trees that have been much neglected should
have the gross wood or that which protrudes a
long distance from the wall cut away, and though
a crop will be out of the question this season,
by laying in new wood and giving it ample
space, the trees will give a good return next
season. Trees allowed to run wild will also need
root-pruning. When cutting the roots it is well
to give new soil, turfy loam, with a liberal ad-
dition of wood ashes, burnt garden refuse, mortar
rubble, or other materials that will produce fruit-
ing wood, avoiding manures in the soil, which are
best supplied as surface dressings.

Planum: Fig trees. — There will be great losses
in cold, exposed gardens, the Fig being very

tender, and even some with ample protection will
have suffered. Vigorous trees will doubtless send
up sucker growth, and these must be regulated
and encouraged to fill a good space of wall this
season, but where planting is necessary, now is a
good time to do the work. To avoid future losses
give the best position, such as the angle or
junction of a wall or corner facing due south or
south-west. On the latter aspect I have obtained
the best results. It is advisable to restrict the
root-run by bricks, tiles, or other means. The
soil should be as advised above, and the trees
thrive well in a chalky soil, so that when pro-
curable it should be used freely. Plant firmly and
give the surface roots every encouragement to
run freely, as they delight in an open compost,
with liberal supplies of moisture. Doubtless the
Brown Turkey is the best all-round Fig we have
for either indoors or the open. Young trees are
supplied in pots, and it is well to handle the roots
carefully, not to shake out like Vines, but to un-
wind the long roots and merely lay in the soil,
filling up and firming as the work proceeds. In

Claret coloured Vine. (See page 250.)

training do not attempt to lay in small wood, but
to get leading branches to form the body of the
tree. These will soon push out fruiting wood
another season. G. Wythes.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Early Leeks and Onions. — Where seed of these
two vegetables was sown the first week in
February for producing extra large early bulbs,
the seedlings will by this time be sufficiently ad-
vanced for pricking off either into frames furnished
with a gentle warm bed of leaves, or into or-
dinary rough-made deal boxes. A few growers
pot them off into pots 3 inches or 4 inches in
diameter, which is in reality the safest plan, as
then the young plants can be transplanted with
little or no root interruption. In any case good
retentive loamy compost should be used, and in-
stead of mixing manure with the soil, place a good
layer in the bottom of the boxes or pots over the
drainage. Pot or prick off very carefully, spread-
ing out the tender roots like the extended fingers

of a man's hand, and covering them carefully at
first with a little of the finest of the compost, and
finally making the remainder very firm. Water
home, and in the case of pots or boxes give a
position near the glass in a temperature of from
50° to 55° at night. Here they may remain for
three weeks, when they must be gradually
hardened off by removal to an ordinary cool
frame, open-air planting being carried out about
the third week in May. It is always a good plan
to mix a little soot with the compost when prick-
ing out of the seed boxes into pots, this being
obnoxious to the terrible Onion maggot.

Main crop Carrots.— In favourable soils that
can now be worked and trodden upon without be-
coming sticky the main crop of Carrots may now
be sown. Presuming that the necessary prepara-
tion in the form of ridging up to the frost and
wind, the incorporation of soot and wood ashes,
and frequent surface stirrings since the frost dis-
appeared has been given, all that is now needed
is a fine sunny day. Tread first lengthways and
then crossways, draw the drills shallow, sow
rather thicker than usual, Carrot seed being
none too reliable in the open this year, and
before filling in give a good dusting of burnt
refuse, firm the surface well, and use a fine-toothed
rake in order to remove all stones. In regard to
varieties, this sowing is best represented by the
Intermediate type, although where the soil is deep
the Long Red Surrey is a capital sort to grow for
late winter use. Veitch's Matchless Scarlet and
any of the improved forms of James's Intermediate
cannot be excelled either for freedom of growth
or quality. Where the soil is but shallow and
poor, shorter varieties, such as Scarlet Model, will
bo found the best. In such soils assistance may be
given by a broadcast sowing of some quick-acting
fertiliser twice during the growing season in
showery weather. The French or Parisian
Forcing, which was sown at the commencement
of February, will need all the encouragement
possible by early thinning, using the Dutch hoe
between the rows, and a gentle moistening with
tepid water into which a little guano has been
stirred. Wireworm and grubs generally do not
like guano. If windy weather ensues, the fly will
probably appear on the tops. This must be stopped
by overhead sprinklings of wood ashes.

Successional Potatoes. — In many gardens
Potato planting, even of the earlier section, is by
no means completed. Such, however, should
now be brought to a speedy close. All seconu
earlies should also be got into the ground, as if
left any longer in the store rooms the sprouts will
increase in length at a greater ratio than they
will do under ground, and therefore be more
liable to fall victims to May frosts, as protection
to any great degree cannot always be given to
large breadths of second early varieties. To those
who have yet to purchase the sets I would recom-
mend Snowdrop for this planting. I have proved
its excellence for some years, and know it to suc-
ceed in many other localities and in a great
variety of soils. Another good trait in its charac-
ter is its long-keeping powers, being frequently
eatable late in spring. Sutton's Seedling must
also be named, as, all points considered, it cannot
be beaten for a second early. I have still a high
opinion of Beauty of Hebron, as, although a pink-
skinned variety, it has a mealy flesh and a
delicious flavour, while nothing can be said
against its cropping powers. If grown on wet
soils it is somewhat prone to disease, but when
favoured with a good warm rooting medium and
perfect drainage it seldom becomes affected. A
splendid pebble-shaped variety is found in Windsor
Castle. This is sure to become a leading Potato
where quality and quantity combined are a
desideratum.

Main crops. — From the first to the second week
in April is a capital time in the majority of cases
to plant for the late autumn and winter supply.
In a former calendar I advised looking over the
stock at the beginning of March, removing all the
sprouts that had formed during winter and laying
them out not too thickly in outhouses, merely
covering with litter should the nights be frosty

254

THE GARDEN

[April 13, [<i)5-

Where this course was followed all the sprouts
that have since formed may be allowed to remain
on the tubers, as they will be short and stout ;
and as late Potatoes are usually planted at a good
depth, no fear need be apprehended of injury
from frost, at least in ordinary seasons. Where
these later crops are grown in fields the common
practice is to fork farmyard manure into the
trenches and to place the set3 on it, afterwards
filling in. This is all very well on moderately
light soils, but to adopt it on strong ground, par-
ticularly that not over well drained, is to court
disaster. Far better is it in such cases to forego
the manure in the first place and to apply it later
on in the shape of broadcast sowings. Strong
farmyard manure in wet seasons often does in-
calculable harm by inducing a rampant and late
growth at the expense of the crop, and is more-
over the forerunner of disease on heavy soils. An
error often committed in preparing land for field
crops is using dry, husky manure instead of solid
spit manure. The former is often so dry and
hard that, should the summer prove a dry one, it
is found in just the same condition at lifting
time, having acted simply as a sieve for what
little rain there was. If the land has not been
well worked, postpone planting until this is
the case, as this is most essential ; indeed, is
often of more importance than all manures. A
good selection being very important, the under-
mentioned may be depended on to succeed in the
majority of soils : Schoolmaster, one of the best
market Potatoes in cultivation, the number of
years it has been grown, and that largely, being
the best proof of its merits ; Lady Truscott, oblong
in shape, a heavy cropper, of fine quality, and one
which, although it may be lifted and eaten in Sep-
tember, will keep sound and good till spring ;
White Elephant, objected to by many on account
of its liability to become coarse, is nevertheless a
good and profitable Potato grown on poor land or
where an impoverishing crop has preceded it,
flesh then mealy and good ; Renown, a splendid
new Potato, almost as round as a cricket ball,
cropping most freery, keeping well, and unsur-
passed for eating purposes ; The Bruce, highly
spoken of by some, is so similar to Magnum Bonum
as to be indistinguishable from that variety. For
growing in all soils and climates I think the Mag-
num is still unbeaten.

Small seeds, second sowing. — The second
week in March I recommended a sowing of Cab-
bage, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, and other
early autumn maturing vegetables in gardens
favoured by shelter and where the demand was
great and constant. In such places a second sow-
ing on a somewhat larger scale may now be made
of the late autumn section of green crops. In
small gardens where no houses or frames exist, the
earliest sorts of Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and Let-
tuce should also be sown. I always sow Cooling's
Matchless Broccoli at this date, one of the hardiest
and very best of spring varieties, but one requiring
a long season of growth. In the south the middle
of April would probably be soon enough. Snow's
may also be sown now for December use, although
for my own part I prefer Backhouse's Winter
White, it being more certain as to date of heading
in and, I think, also somewhat more hardy. The
majority of the Broccoli may stand over till the
mid- April sowings. A little seed of the taller
varieties of Brussels Sprouts may also be sown, as
if the season is fine and forward earlier batches of
the dwarfer sorts are apt to develop miniature
Cabbages instead of hard knobs ; whereas the later
sown seedof Scrymgeour'sGiantand similar strains
which really need a longer season of growth pro-
duce perfect sprouts and plenty of them. Where
only one sowing is made the present is about the
best time to make it, choosing an intermediate
variety. For such gardens also Cocoa-nut and
Enfield Market Cabbages will be as good as an}7,
both being very reliable and following each other
in the order named. Pearl and Autumn Giant
Cauliflowers would answer best, and Alexander
Cos with Continuity Cabbage Lettuce will be found
very suitable. If seed of Self-protecting Autumn
Broccoli is sown now, good heads will be forth-

coming from the end of October throughout
November, a sowing later in the month being
best for plants to continue the supply from that
date till the new year with protection.

Radishes. — These may now be sown at inter-
vals of a fortnight, Wood's Frame and French
Breakfast being the best till April is out, when
the longer red and Turnip varieties answer best.
If the latter are sown too soon in the year they
grow slowly, and are consequently hot and
stringy. A nice sunny position will be advisable
until May, when a cooler aspect should be chosen.
Attend to thinning out those growing in cold pits
and home-made frames, giving occasional soakings
of tepid water, as Radishes are moisture-loving
subjects.

Globe Artichokes. — These will be extremely
scarce this season, as the majority of stools, even
on warm soils and where protected, have been
either killed outright or so weakened, that a late
and puny growth is inevitable. Where growths
start from the base of the clumps it will be
well to sever a number of these from the parent
and pot them up, afterwards placing them in
a cold frame and protecting from rains. These
will grow into fairly large plants by June, when
they may be transplanted into freshly prepared
ground well enriched with manure. Sowing seed
is very risky, as so often the produce is utterly
worthless. At times, however, this is compulsory,
when the only plan is to mark the most worthy
plants when yielding and to take offsets from
these in spring, casting the rubbishy plants
away.

Cardoons. — Where these are much in request,
a small sowing may be made on a warm border,
or, better still, in a box in a greenhouse. These
will come in for autumn use, the main sowing
being deferred yet for a little.

Seed Beet. — Any roots of special strains in-
tended for stock may now be planted on rich soil
in an open and sunny position, the crowns being
covered on cold nights with flower-pots for the
first three weeks. As soon as growth commences
a watch must be kept for sparrows, as these pests
often divest the roots of every morsel of leafage.
When this is the case a secondary growth has to
be made, which is often too late to produce seed-
stems in time for ripening satisfactorily. Wood
ashes sprinkled over the crowns in showery
weather will often prevent birds attacking them.

Sowing Asparagus. — Seed either for producing
roots for forcing or for the formation of ordinary
beds may be sown now. If for the former pur-
pose an open quarter should be selected, shallow
drills drawn, an alley being left between every
four rows. This space will allow of hand-weeding
being carried out without trampling amongst the
young plants. Burnt refuse may be used in the
drills after sowing, as sometimes the seed is badly
attacked by grubs. When the seed is saved at
home it should always be taken from plants that
bear a few large berries in preference to those
which yield large numbers of small berries, the
former always producing the best Asparagus.
Any convenient sunny spot will do for sowing the
seed for nursery work, 1 foot apart being a good
distance between the rows.

Sowing Seakale. — This also should be sown
during the early part of April, and where for per-
manent beds, to be forced by pots and leaves, the
soil must be rich and sustaining. Four rows to
each bed is a handy number, the seedlings being
duly thinned out to the required distance some
3 feet from each other. Where sown for producing
crowns for forcing at. the end of the second year,
18 inches from row to row and 15 inches between
the plants when finally thinned will answer.
Where ground is plentiful 0 inches more may be
allowed. Both the Lily White and ordinary va-
rieties should be sown, the latter forcing the most
readily during November. Rather shallow sowing
is important. J. Crawford.

we have ; but till this season I have never had the
bulbs frozen for so long a time, and the variety
named is equal to the late keeper, being sound and
good. In advising the growth of the above I do
not mean that huge bulbs were grown, as these do
not keep — at least, I have heard such is the case.
I do not grow for exhibition, and therefore have no
need of the gigantic bulbs, but my opinion is that
they are bad keepers, and this brings me to the
point— the value of Rousham Park for what may
be termed general use for winter and spring
supplies when the seed is sown in the usual
way, thinned, the bulbs well ripened, wintered in
an exposed loft or room and merely protected from
damp. This variety is somewhat after the White
Spanish type and valuable for its mild eating, so
that it may be termed a good all-round variety.
Those who desire may grow it to a large size by
sowing in heat, but I do not advise it for supplies
at this date, as medium-sized, well-ripened bulbs
are best.— W. S. M.

Onion Rousham Park.— This, is I consider,
one of the best keeping varieties grown. For
years I have sown it with James's Keeping and
Bedfordshire Champion — two of the best keepers

Rose Garden.

NOTES ON ROSES.

Some special treatment will soon be necessary
among our climbers under glass if we are to secure
the best of wood for another season's forcing. It
is absolutely necessary that healthy and well-
ripened growth be obtained if we are to have a
good show of bloom early next year. We need
get this as early as possible, so that a brief period
of rest may be afforded before the plants are re-
started for winter bloom. Our early climbers
have finished flowering and will now be cut down ;
not at one operation only, but in two at a month's
interval. Culture with a view to securing good
wood should be commenced at once. If we look
at this class of Rose in the open air we find it does
not cease growth in the least during spring and
summer. Even while the last blooms are opening
young shoots are actively breaking from around
the base. To give any kind of check to these is a
great mistake, as not only does it lengthen the
time necessary to make wood of the desired length
and strength, but we seldom get wood of the same
high quality. At no time can we grow our climb-
ing and other Roses under glass to greater per-
fection than the present. Sufficient light and
warmth are available without the need of dense
shading from a powerful June and July sun.
While many are still growing their climbers I
trust mine will be maturing themselves in the dry
autumn air. Even grafted plants of this year's
working are carrying rods of 3 feet and upwards.

A word upon this spring pruning under glass.
It is practically the same as summer pruning in
the open, our Roses being in a similar condition
in each case. As the wood which has just flowered
is of scarcely any value, there can be no good
gained by retaining it ; rather the contrary, for
then we are not only providing more room for the
new growth, but diverting the whole of our
plants' strength to the production of really useful
rods. We follow this plan with pegged-down
Roses in the open. Pruning is, or should be
finished in all but a few cold localities. The
majority of us are content to wait much later
than usual this season. Very little long growth
will be left this spring after the dead wood is
removed, and as much of what remains will be
crippled, I would recommend that we cut harder
than usual. Indeed, our main hope lies in shoots
from the base, and there is very little good in
retaining wood that will at best produce only
growth of moderate quality. In another note I
have spoken of how sadly our Roses look in the
south, and from a recent visit to the eastern and
midland counties I believe we are much the
harder hit of the two. Absence of snow was a
great misfortune.

Once more turning to our Roses under glass,
I would point out the need for a shift in the case
of very young plants. My own, that were rooted
from cuttings a little later than this last year, were

Apbu, 13, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

255

potted into 3-inch pots early in January and aro
now being placed into 6-inch pots. Own-root
Roses enjoy a more porous soil than those worked
upon the Brier stock. A slight shade will soon be
afforded to our Rose houses, not so as to darken
in any way, but barely sufficient to break the
fiercest of the sun's rays. Under these conditions
and not otherwise we can afford a moist atmo-
sphere and an occasional gentle syringing during
the prevalence of very bright weather. Air that
is alternating between extremes of dryness and
moisture, with wide changes of atmosphere, will
not suit Roses. Liquid manures will be sprinkled
about when damping down as well as freely
afforded to all plants not recently repotted. We
cannot get colour and quality in the flower with-
out having the same in the foliage. Rather more
flowers of sulphur will be added to the syringing
solution during this trying time as regards mil-
dew, but we shall still keep both this and liquid
manures far weaker than many use, preferring
to use them more freely rather than run the risk
of overdoing in strength. R-

AMONG THE ROSES, MARCH— APRIL.
It has been a matter of surprise to me that more
complaints and regrets at the severe loss occa-
sioned during the frost have not appeared in the
gardening press. After far less disastrous win-
ters we have had notes from many quarters.
Certainly they never had a worse appearance here,
and the state of our beds is indeed deplorable.
<iood plants of many varieties are killed outright.
The Hybrid Teas seem very hardy as a class.
Caroline Testout, Viscountess Folkestone, and
Grace Darling are almost untouched. Now that
our beds of dwarfs are pruned, they present a
most bare appearance. Many varieties are cut
down to the ground line, and with those least
affected it is only here and there that any of last
summer's growth was in a fit state to leave. On
the walls and fences it is little better, nor is a
very sheltered garden of my neighbour's any
great improvement upon our own exposed plants.
I fear we have not a plant of Climbing Perle des
.Tardins, Lamarque, and the white Banksian alive.
Somewhat strange to record, the Fortune's va-
riety of the latter has withstood the cold well,
although side by side with the white Banksian.
Unfortunately, this is the solitary-flowered kind,
and of very inferior merit to the true white
Banksian, although frequently passed off as such.
Kaiserin Friedrich, one of the Dijon Teas, is
even more hardy with us than the old Gloire de
Dijon, and l'ldeal also stands well.

Pruning was an exceedingly simple matter, as
after the dead wood had been removed we had
very little left. That climbing Roses must be a
failure this season I think all will admit ; 40° of
frost were registered by a neighbour with a tested
thermometer, while from 25° up to 35° were fre-
quently reached. When so many shrubs are
killed we need wonder little at the fate of our
Roses. Last year at this time we were looking
forward to a delightful season ; with the wood
sound and growth breaking freely, it seemed that
nothing short of a late spring frost could prevent
a good summer display. This, however, we ex-
perienced both at the end of May and June. At
present very little of our Rose wood is breaking,
and there is not the slightest prospect of a good
Rose season from any but dwarf maiden plants.
Once more are our standards terribly injured or
killed outright in a large number of cases. Even
those upon the very short stems are almost as
bad. A day or two back I was looking over some
plants of a friend's who had protected with
Bracken, and added some straw when the weather
became so severe. There is a little more live
wood upon his than mine, but this is hard hit,
and much of it will be cut away. The dwarfs
that were covered with soil at the base look better,
although even here there is considerable injury.

When we turn to the budded dwarf stocks of
last summer there is a better outlook. Both upon
the Manetti and Brier in seedling and cutting
form the majority of the buds look well, although

very backward. No time should be lost in cutting
away the stock of these. A sharp knife and the
left hand pressed firmly around the collar of the
plant just below the Rose bud will allow of a
cleaner and more healthy cut than that from any
secateurs. If a knife is used thus, I prefer to cut
down close to the bud, but should the secateurs
find favour, it is well to leave 1 inch or 2 inches of
the stock. I would adopt the same plan with
budded standard Briers.

As Rose growth progresses we shall need to
draw a little of the surrounding soil towards the
bud. It softens the stock and encourages more
uniform swelling of that and the Rose. This is not
all, as it also affords good support against wind.
We cannot tie them until growth has progressed
several inches, but soil around the base keeps
them safe and helps the union at the same time.
When cutting back the stocks and previous to
earthing up we must keep a close lookout for
suckers. These push early and are generally
prominent enough to be easily seen by the time
we need draw soil around. Cut them out deeply
so as to eradicate the eyes usually found around
them. With standards also a close and early
look round for suckers and breaks from the
stem is advisable. When this is done now we not
only save much time, but the work is more com-
plete. We can scarcely give too much care in
sticking and tying our maiden Roses when growth
is sufficiently advanced. Ridcewood.

Among the Roses in March. — What remark
able weather contrasts we have season after
season. Last year at the present time we were
looking forward to a glorious season ; the wood had
come through the winter safely, everything looked
promising, and plants were bursting into growth,
[n fact, our chief concern was the earliness of the
season and fear of later frosts in April or May.
Nor were these without reason, seeing that for so
many years we have experienced keen frost at that
date. Both in May and in June we had frost of
sufficient severity to blacken many subjects besides
Roses. For weeks afterwards we saw the sad
effects of this cold wave. But there are no signs
of early growth this season. Today (March 7) I
have taken acareful look round, and I do not think
that among the standards and half standards the
survivals will average more than one in six, while
the majority of the dwarfs are killed to the ground
line. We certainly have had a more severe time
for Roses in mid-Sussex than ever before. Laurels
and Mahonia are quite killed in many places, and
the protection of snow was not accorded this
district, although a few miles away a considerable
amount was lying during part of the severe frost.
Here, unfortunately, we had the full force of
keen wind with no snow, and the result is greater
havoc among Roses than I have noticed in many
other instances. I had hoped to be able to give a
better report than this, more especially with such
a steady and favourable general thaw ; but Roses
are much too hard hit in this neighbourhood for
the most sanguine to look for even a medium Rose
season with any confidence. — P.

Climbing' Niphetos. — There is no comparison
between this variety and the ordinary Niphetos
for producing bloom. In fact, while the latter
can almost be termed a perpetual bloomer when in
comfortable greenhouse quarters, the climbing
variety, so far as my experience goes, is really not
worth growing where profit is considered. True,
it will cover a large space of wall or trellising in a
very short time, and for that reason is useful for
hiding unsightly places, but that is all that can
be said in its favour. It is strange that two Poses
bearing the same name, though differing in form
of growth, should be so opposite in blooming
powers. — J. C.

Are smooth or prickly-wooded Roses the
hardier'; — The results of the present frost should
go far towards dispelling the idea that one or
other of these is hardier than its opposite. If
we take smooth-wooded kinds, we find Paul Neron,
Captain Christy, and others very hardy indeed,
while Victor Verdier and Horace Vernet are

standing examples to the contrary. Some dozen
or more varieties could be named upon oach side
in support of this. Turning to those with many
thorns, where have we a more tender Rose than
Rev. J. B. M. Camm, or a more hardy one than
Rugosa rubra ? The Mosses, too, and Scotch
Briers are among our hardiest Roses, but equally
prickly ones from other sections are not. So
crossed and intercrossed have our Roses become,
that an}* visible characteristics are of little guide
in this respect. In conversation with an amateur
friend a few days back while comparing notes on
the state of our Roses and the probable prospects
after this frost, he stoutly maintained that the
thorns were a needed protection to tender varie-
ties.— R.

Roses uxder glass. — The question discussed
by " Ridgewood " at page 159, whether Roses are
better grown in pots or planted out will most
likely be decided in different ways by different
classes of cultivators. Doubtless Roses can be
cultivated successfully planted out in a border of
good soil under glass, but if the house is filled with
them it cannot be very well used for anything
else ; whereas if the plants are grown in pots they
can be removed anywhere during the summer
months. Some good growers of Tea-scented Roses
in pots will not place their plants out of doors at
all, preferring to keep them in the greenhouse or
Rose house. I believe this is most desirable if the
very best results are to be obtained from large
specimen plants for exhibition, for instance. My
plan with them is to stand the pots containing the
Rose trees on two bricks, or if the flower-pots are
large, three bricks. The large hole in the centre
for the egress of water is clear of the ground ; the
water passes freely out and the air passes freely
in, keeping the potting material in the best
possible condition. Except Marechal Niel and
any other vigorous-growing sort of this type, which
certainly ought to be planted out, there are no
others I would care to grow in that way. All
other Teas I would grow in pots. Gloire de
Dijon and Mine. Berard should be planted out,
and they will grow quite as strongly as Marechal
Niel in suitable soil. — J. Douglas.

ROSES DEAD AND DYING.
Sufficient time has now elapsed to determine
which among Roses have survived the late severe
frost. Evidently enough it is not a question of
which varieties or which types have proved the
hardiest, as there are numerous losses in all the
sections. Once more, however, there is no mis-
taking the fact of the standards on the common
Brier stock being the least hardy of all, and I
believe we may safely assume that it is these
same naked stems that are the most vital parts of
the trees. All the while the stems continue to
increase in size and the heads remain in a vigor-
ous, healthy state frosts rarely injure them, but
when once they give signs of failing health it
only requires a moderately severe frost to finish
them up. If what has taken place in various
parts of the south-western counties of England is
any criterion, there has been an extra large num
ber of standard Roses to root out this spring.
Losses there are to account for nearly ever}
winter, but veiy rarely so many as are to be noted
this spring. If this leads to the cultivation of
more dwarf Roses and fewer standards, then the
lesson will have been profited by and good rather
than regrettable harm be the result. There is
always an artificiality about standard Roses, and
as they also prove by far the least hardy, then the
time ought not to be far distant when there will
be little or no demand for them. Unfortunately,
it is not standards only that have been largely
destroyed by frosts, but those who have lost
their dwarfs, or what should have been dwarfs or
bushes, have only themselves to thank in most
instances. Where moderately severe or rational
methods of pruning have been adopted every
spring there are few or no losses. It is those
that Tiave been allowed to grow wild or which
have been lightly topped and not pruned as we
would prefer to carry out this important work

256

THE GARDEN.

[Ap„il 13, 1895.

that have suffered the most. Once allowed to go
uniiruned for one season they become leggy, pro-
duce fewer fine flowers, and do not prove very
much hardier than standards. Dwarf Roses that
are rather freely thinned out and cut back every
year possess far greater vitality, and are much
less liable to destruction than are many not so
pruned — at least such is my experience — and they
rarely fail to bloom grandly. In Mr. Brutton's
garden near Yeovil, Somerset, there is a long bor-
der devoted to Roses on their own roots, some
being struck on the place and some originally
on the Manetti stock, but long since rooted off.
These great spreading clumps, for that is how they
can best be described, are annually pruned to
within 3 inches of the ground, not an old stump
or growth showing above that height, and also
receive a rather heavy mulching of manure, yet
in spite of these incentives to strong growth they
never fail to flower grandly every summer, and
there is not a single loss among them from the
frosts. These great clumps might be taken up,
pulled to pieces and replanted with impunity, that
is to say, might safely be treated similarly to
herbaceous plants. Contrast this border of Roses
with the hundreds of lightly pruned bushes in the
same district and the verdict must be given in
favour of the hard pruned ones. Before adopting
such a drastic method of pruning I should first,
however, prefer to give the plan a trial, and till
proven shall continue to prune moderately hard
only. By moderately hard I mean the free re-
moval of all spray, the shortening back of growths
no stouter than a slate pencil to the second joint,
those of the thickness of a lead pencil to the third
or fourth bud, and any still stouter to a length of
12 inches to 18 inches. I hold it to be a mistake
to be more lenient with Teas than Hybrid Per-
petuals, as the aim with the former should be to
promote the growth of extra strong young shoots
from the underground portion of the stems, these
branching and flowering grandly long after the
single blooms from small wood are over. Standards
generally should also have daylight let into their
heads, the rather severe thinning out of the more
dense being followed by a foreshortening of
straggling growth and the free shortening, as ad-
vised in the case of bushes, of the rest. Nor ought
those growing against walls to be neglected or
wholly escape the pruning knife. Very many of
these are in a dead or dying state, and it may be
a wholesale removal of dead wood will be all the
pruning necessary. Teas in these positions I
would, for reasons just given, prune freely. Even
the vigorous-growing Gloire de Dijon, Mme.
Berard, and Reine Marie Henriette pay for thin-
ning out, some few of the strong branches being
well shortened back. Not only does this tend to
keep up the vigour of the trees, but the early-
formed long and strong branches of the first-
named in particular will flower at nearly every
joint before the season is over. Lamarque if some-
what hard pruned will produce great branching
heads of pure white bloom, and the good old
Celine Forestier also pays for being freely pruned.
Another newer and popular Noisette, William
Allen Richardson, is a strong grower, and most of
the branches should only have the unripened ends
cut away, and lovely buds will then be produced
throughout the reserved portions. In the more
favoured districts these long branches may be cut
back directly after they have ceased flowering, and
fresh growths will then be had for the following
year, but, as a rule, thinning out this as well as
L'Ideal, a rival of W. A. Richardson, is the best
plan, as this leads to the production of quite as
many young growths as are needed. Marechal
Niel has been very hard hit, but those who have
strong young growths still alive should treat
these as advised in the case of the other Noisettes.

Now that there can no longer be any doubt
about the losses, owners of gardens are inquiring
whether it is too late to replace those that are
dead. My advice has been to procure bushes at
once, planting and pruning these at the same time.
These late-planted Roses, being moved just when
top and root growth is commencing, will most pro-
bably succeed well, but not if their owners or those

responsible neglect to prune them. It is also of the
greatest importance that they have the benefit
of a fairly rich, fresh, loamy compost, as it is very
certain they will fail in stale soil. Failing to change
the soil has led to innumerable failures, and so also
has high planting. All dwarf Roses are worked,
that is to say, either budded or grafted on to
Manetti, seedling Brier or other stocks. All, too,
are liable to push up suckers very freely, these,
if not detected in time, soon ruining the Rose
worked on the original stem. The Manetti stem
in particular requires to be buried, and this should
be done in all cases, sinking the point of union
of stock and scion 3 inches below the surface.
This comparatively deep planting does not greatly
militate against good root-action, and is partly re-
commended with a view to causing the Rose or
scion to strike root or " root off," thereby becom-
ing in time quite independent of the uncertain
stock. Once a Rose is well established on its own
roots it is an advantage rather than otherwise for
suckers to be thrown up, these eventually taking
the place of worn-out older wood. Vigorous
dwarf Roses give plenty of wood for propagating
purposes, well-matured young wood cut into
lengths of about 12 inches and inserted firmly and
to half their depth in good strong soil striking, as
a rule, quite as surely as Gooseberry or Currant

of Roses, not too rampant in growth, though it
will clothe a pillar lit feet high and flower freely
from its base to its full height. — J. C. Tallack.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

WELL-FLAVOURED GOOSEBERRIES.
The Gooseberry is valued by those who have
not a large quantity of glass to grow choice
fruits. It is equally as delicious as any forced
fruits when due attention is given the trees
in the way of food and protection from insect
pests. There is not sufficient attention paid
to the trees even in large gardens. They are
not given enough room or food and occupy
the same ground too many years. Even when
badly treated the Gooseberry produces fruit in
quantity, but smaller and not well flavoured.
This latter point deserves more attention, as
though size is meritorious, the flavour of some
varieties is equal to that of the best forced
fruits grown. Of late years, with extended
fruit culture, this fruit has received more at-

Gooseberry Dan's Mistake. From a photograph sent by Mr. T. Pimlott,
Whirley Road, Long Moss, Macclesfield.

cuttings. The autumn or not later than the middle
of November is the proper time to put in these
cuttings. A Rover.

Own-root Roses. — The advantages of growing
many Roses on their own roots will be well shown
this year. To-day (April 3) I have been pruning
the H. P.'s, and have had the satisfaction of find-
ing that all dwarfs on their own roots are looking
well and breaking strongly. Pruning has to be
more severe than usual, most plants having to be
cut back nearly to the ground level, but beyond
this no harm has been done to the dwarfs, and
with a genial spring strong growth appears cer-
tain. With standards appearances are entirely
different, more than 90 per cent, being killed
outright, and on the few that have escaped with
their lives future growth cannot be satisfactory.
Outside appearances are deceptive, as the stored-
up sap is causing buds to shoot from young wood
which cannot possibly support them, as the old
stems lower down are quite killed. On the walls
some few climbing Roses are looking as if they
may recover without being cut hard back to the
ground, but the more tender kinds, such as Mare-
chal Niel, VV. A. RichardEOn, Devoniensis, La-
marque, and the Banksians, are killed to that
point, and there is no need for hesitation in prun-
ing them. Most pillar Roses are spoiled for this
year. I take this opportunity of again recom-
mending Vivid for this work, as it is almost the
only one that appears unaffected by the frost. It
is one of the freest flowering and sweetest scented

tention, and we have had some very fine ex-
hibits of over 150 varieties staged, giving those
interested an opportunity of seeing the cropping
qualities, colour, and testing the flavour. I do
not advocate quantity or variety, as most
Gooseberries fruit freely, indeed too freely
if they are required for dessert. Thinning is
a tedious process, but the fruits thinned may be
used. The trees benefit, and there are few fruits
more profitable at the time. Should quantities
be grown, there is always a ready sale. Many
of the best varieties, those which produce large
berries, are bad growers, and without attention
in the way of pruning, thinning, or supports, a
large quantity of the fruits is spoiled by
coming into contact with the soil and is soon
devoured by slugs. Few fruits are more appre-
ciated by the larger birds when ripe, and the
buds in the winter by the small finches and
sparrows, so that to obtain good fruit one
must adopt protective measures. I recently
saw a model fruit garden at The Hendre, Mon-
mouth, the Gooseberry trees being covered over
with wire netting and occupying a space be-
tween larger trees, such as Cherries. Some of
the best kinds had been selected, flavour being
the first consideration.

This mode of culture is to be recommended,
as if the cost of temporary protection be taken
into consideration and the greater facilities

April 13 1895.]

THE GARDEN

257

combined with neatness and other details, a
permanent protection made with strong iron
supports and 1-inch mesh wire is worth adopt-
ing. Delicious fruits may then be had much
later than one can obtain from trees netted in
the open, as when closely netted there is not
enough exposure to preserve the fruits. The
small dessert kinds must not be overlooked
when flavour is required, and these are most
subject to the depredations of birds. Such kinds
as Early Sulphur, Golden Drop and Trans-
parent, when the trees are well fed, are superior
to those one usually sees grown in the ordinary
way.

For large fruits the one illustrated, Dan's
Mistake, is one of the best kinds grown. It is
noted for flavour and cropping ; indeed, on our
light soil it is the best cropper when size is con-
sidered. There are others equal in flavour, but
I know none superior of the larger section.
This variety is a special favourite in the Lanca-
shire districts, and one often sees it exhibited
at local shows in splendid condition. To obtain
size, thinning is necessary. Dan's Mistake is a
large red fruit slightly covered with hairs, and
when fully ripe keeps a long time if the trees
are not much crowded. It may not be con-
sidered the most profitable kind, as Whinham's
Industry is a better cropper and for early
fruits superior. Whinhain's grows freely in
a young state, and I find it our best fruit
for gathering when green. The desire to have
fruit for tarts or pies at Whitsuntide is still ob-
served, and though impossible to obtain in cer-
tain seasons, the newer introductions are most
useful for that purpose, as they swell quickly
<ifter the flowers se'. Such varieties as that
illustrated are specially suitable for cordon
training. The growths of some of the larger
kinds is not so robust as one could wish, but
grown as cordons, one can feed freely then
and expose the fruits so as to obtain flavour.
The trees, too, take up less space and can be
readily protected. The cordon mode of cul-
ture is worth a trial where Gooseberries are
liked for the dessert, but it is well to plant
strong trees that have been specially prepared
for cordon training, as if bushes are cut back
to one growth, the following season they pro-
duce so many shoots at the base that the leader
does not make much progress. For dessert,
flavour being considered, such kinds as Green
Gascoigne, Ironmonger, Leader, Red Champagne,
Alma, Lady Leicester, Keepsake, Telegraph,
Speedwell, and those named previously are all
worth special cultivation. G. VVythes.

Pear Chaumontel. — 1 must plead guilty to
being one of those people who have not tasted a
good English grown Chaumontel Pear, but, on
the other hand, I have grown magnificent fruit
to look at. The climate and soil must be very
favourable indeed for this 1'ear to come of good
table quality in Britain. I did hear of isolated
■cases, where the Chaumontel is still grown, of its
being of very good quality in the abnormally hot
season of 1893, and if such seasons could be more
frequent, we might look upon the Chaumontel as
being one of our best Pears. I have had sufficient
experience in the culture of Pears to also know
that outward appearance is no criterion of quality.
It was, therefore, a surprise to me to read in
"W. (i. C. s ' note "so many gardeners are en-
abled to produce Chaumontel Pears that would
be -no discredit to the Channel Island growers."
If there is any secret connected with its good
culture other than a ver}' favourable climate and
-soil, possibly some of these successful growers
will kindly give their experience. — V. A. H.

The Glastonbury Pear.— Judging by the
interesting account given in The Garden by Mr.
J. A. Porch re the (Uastonbury Pear, season
makes a wondeiful difference in its quality, and

which probably is the reason of this trait being
so bad last season. My experience, however, is
but slight. Last November Mr. Coleman and
myself, who were judging the principal fruit
classes at Hereford, came across this Pear in a
collection, but it was a stranger to both of us.
Being, however, of fine appearance, and as we
were on the look-out for quality, the fruits were
cut, when the quality proved as bad as it possibly
could be. The exhibitor afterwards told me we
could not have tried a worse one, but being short
of a variety he put it in. I do not wish to doubt
the authority of the gentleman named in speak-
ing up for its quality, but. it only shows what a
variable fruit the Pear is as regards season and
climate, and proves how careful one need be in
selecting Pears for quality to be depended upon
annually. — A. Younu.

Colour in Apples. — " E. M.'s " note on colour
in Apples is very interesting, and proves con-
clusively, what has hitherto been published in the
pages of The Garden, that high colour is in-
fluenced considerably by the constituent portions
of the soil. Even if these have to be added
artificially, as has been done in the garden which
" E. M." quotes, it only goes to prove the truth.
(Quoting from memory, I think it was Mr. Roupell
who exhibited before the Royal Horticultural
Society fruits noteworthy for their high colour,
the resultof supplyingtothe soil those constituents
which the results achieved proved the soil was
deficient of. It is also a well-known fact that
Apples noteworthy for high colour are invariably
produced from those soils where iron is present in
quantity sutticient for the purpose — the red sand-
stone of Herefordshire, for example. If it can be
further demonstrated that the application of sul-
phate of iron and soot will materially increase
colour, it is well worth our future consideration.
— Y. A. H.

Temperatures for setting Grapes. — The
article by " VV. G. C." suggests a few notes on
temperatures, as he places these in rather a
secondary position. It is quite right, however,
that temperatures, however stated, will avail but
little if the roots are not in a satisfactory state.
According to my experience the state of the
weather at the period the Vines are in flower is
the best gauge of the temperature to maintain.
Like " \V. G. C," I remember an instance, and
which I have previously mentioned in the pages of
The Harden when writing upon the subject of
setting Grapes, of a splendid set of Muscats under
a low night temperature, Dut the days were very
bright and warm, hence the difference. If, on the
other hand, the days had been dull the results
would have been disastrous. I had evidence of
this last season, not with Muscats, but with such
a supposed free-setting Grape as Black Alicante.
For some cause, which I need not explain, the
temperature on two nights whilst the Vines were
in full bloom was low in the morning. I expressed
my fear of the results which would accrue at the
time and which proved correct. Small globules
of moisture were seen condensed on the stigmas,
and which was the result of too low a temperature
at night. The days which followed were very
dull and wet, and the result was that quite three
parts of the berries were stoneless. My advice
is to keep up a warm, buoyant temperature at
night whilst the Vines are in flower in case of
any mishap. The ill effects of a low temperature
are perhaps seen more on cold soils than light and
sandy soils. Lady Downe's is a Grape which also
requires a warm, buoyant atmosphere, and so also
do all varieties of Grapes which are notoriously
shy setters. — Y. A. H.

Protecting Gooseberries. — I have known
whole quarters cleared in the neighbourhood of
towns by the sparrows ; indeed, I have this season
during the severe frost been obliged to entirely
net over the best bushes. Currants have suffered
equally with Gooseberries. Once the birds start
on a quarter they clear the trees before they go to
fresh ground. Such well-known remedies as lime
freshly flaked and dusted over the trees in my
case are powerless to prevent their depredations.

A gun will be of great service, destroying a few
and frightening many. Bullfinches are also very
destructive, and unless checked will clear a quarter
in a short time. Those who can afford to erect a
permanent cover in the way of galvanised wire
netting, using a three-quarter inch mesh, with
strong poles as supports, placing the netting at a
height of 6 feet from the soil, will find it most
advantageous. It may not be thought necessary
to cover the top with wire, as nets may be used,
but wire is preferable and not expensive. — W.

PEACH BUDS DROPPING.

I am unable to agree with Mr. Douglas (p. 193)
that the cause of bud-dropping is partially due to
imperfectly developed and badly ripened wood,
loss of leaves by insect pests (that is neglect
whilst in active growth), and over-dry borders in
winter. If I remember aright, Mr. Crump treated
on this subject a year or two ago, and several in-
teresting notes appeared from good growers who
would soon have remedied the evil if bud-dropping
was caused by the agencies described. A few
seasons ago, being a sufferer from the same, I
naturally read Mr. Crump's note with interest,
and was glad to see he did not put down the cause
to the evils described in Mr. Douglas's note. I
believe such causes to be hereditary, as I notice
there is more trouble with some of the newer
American varieties than others. Another cause,
and one I plead guilty to, is keeping our Peach
houses too close at a season full exposure is neces-
sary. Many gardeners take advantage of the
leaves being cleared from their early trees to
house Chrysanthemums, and the house is not
treated like a fruit house at rest, but more care is
bestowed on the temporary occupants, to the dis-
advantage of the fruit trees, and at a time every
bit of air and moisture should be admitted. I
again refer to the first point, badly ripened wood,
and there was little fault to find with the wood
last spring, the previous season being all one could
wish in this respect, and yet the buds dropped.
Then Mr. Douglas may say it was because the
trees lost their leaves prematurely owing to the
pests he named. Such was not my case ; every-
where the wood was thin and, of course, fully ex-
posed, and with early forced trees in such a season
as 1893 there was little need of artificial heat to
ripen the wood. With later trees it may be neces-
sary, but so far I have failed to see any bud-drop-
ping in their case. I never fear the second or third
houses ; it is only the earliest. Others may have
had a different experience, but such is mine. I
now come to dry borders. We have been told
dry borders were the cause of bud-dropping for
so many years. I am inclined to think we have
in most instances taken good care to be on the
right side ; indeed, I know one man who always
empties his tanks fortnightly, having a regular
supply of water, after being told the cause of
failure or dropping was through dryness, and
still they drop ; hence my opinion as to some
kinds being worse than others. I am inclined to
think that gentle forcing is as great a preventive
as giving so much water. We have the same
trees in later houses with same treatment and
they do not drop at all. These American kinds
bloom very erratically, I admit, and my advice is
to force slow, and in the case of kinds like Early
Alexander to grow it sparingly for hard forcing,
as with well-ripened wood and clean foliage (the
wood laid in thinly)— indeed, one cannot help
doing this, as there was no need of disbudding —
and copious supplies of water, we failed to pre-
vent bud-dropping, and, being so annoyed, I as
a last resource got rid of the kinds which dropped.
This season the young trees have not lost any
buds, the varieties being Early Grosse Mignonne
(this must not be confounded with Grosse Mig.
nonne), Hale's Early is free of dropping, and
Dymond, with older kinds. I specially name
Grosse Mignonne, as there are some bad varieties
of this good Peach, the one named forcing freely.
I am at one with Mr. Douglas in his note with
regard to other points of culture, but I am loth
to admit blame for bud-dropping, having tried all

258

THE GARDEN

[Airii, 13 1895.

the remedies he advises, and others being in the
same state, we do not like to admit, although he
wishes us to do so, that we bring the trouble on
ourselves. — Peach Grower.

■ Surely Mr. J. Douglas (p. 193) cannot be in

earnest in the opinion expressed by him with regard
to the cause and remedy for bud-dropping in
Peach trees. If so, he certainly cannot have grown
the early American varieties Alexander and
Waterloo, or he would not so easily have found a
perfect remedy. Mr. Douglas gives as reasons
lor the failing, imperfectly developed and badly-
ripened wood, owing to the premature destruction
of the leaves by red spider, aphis, or mildew,
aggravated by lack of heat after the fruit is
gathered. We had trees of both these sorts in
the early house and one of Alexander in a succes-
sional house, and in each instance bud-dropping
has been an annual source of trouble, although
not subject to the attack of any of the
diseases mentioned in Mr. Douglas's note. Bad
wood ripening certainly ought not to be known in
trees which perfect their crop early in May, espe-
cially where ample ventilation and fire-heat are
provided and in structuresglazedwithlargesquares
of clear glass, and yet under these conditions
Alexander was such an offender this season as to
merit its dismissal from its position which it has
onw occupied some five or six years, to be replaced
with another which it is hoped will prove a more
reliable sort. The two trees simply changed
places from a cold unheated house to the early one,
and vice versa. Here they will have an opportunity
of getting inured and established for bearing next
year. In our early house there are Early Beatrice,
Grosse Mignonne, Bellegarde, and Dunmore
Peaches, Lord Napier, Early Rivers, and Elruge
Nectarines, and in none of these are there any
symptoms of loss through premature bud-drop-
ping, but, on the contrary, they require severe
thinning of the unexpanded buds to relieve the
trees of the strain. If bad wood ripening accounts
for such failings as noted in the American sorts,
why is it English varieties are not affected by it
when subject to exactly the same treatment in
every detail? Mr. Douglas assumes that it is not
difficult to apply a remedy, but I am certain many
growers besides myself would be grateful to him if
he would furnish a permanent remedy for such
a troublesome failing. It cannot be other than
regretted that such desirable Peaches as the two
offending sorts named should be given to such a
deceptive trait, because they are so fine, hand-
somely coloured and early, but in early Peach
forcing where these are depended on there is
sometimes great disappointment and loss experi-
enced at the flowering period. Quite recently
this subject was exhaustively dealt with by your
able correspondent " W. I.," and his experience
gained under a rather extensive trial might be
taken as conclusive and thoroughly trustworthy.
My experience exactly coincides with his in the
failure of these early Peaches to retain their buds.
Aphides, red spider, and mildew were unknown to
our trees last season, and they neither lacked
moisture at the root nor attention to thinning
out the bearing wood as soon as the crop was
gathered, yet in spite of all this failure as re-
corded was our only return. In my opinion it can-
not be other than a constitutional weakness, and
one which apparently they do not overcome with
age and acclimatisation — at least as forcing varie-
ties. Outdoors no such trouble is experienced,
nor do I think it will give much anxiety in cold
houses, but as I have not yet proved them under
the latter course of treatment I cannot speak
positively, but I hope to do so in the course of a
year or two, as both are now included in the cool
house selection. — Wiltshire (Iardener.

ness, and when forced it is much superior to Noble ;
and, considering it is a seedling from Noble,
with King of the Earlies as the male parent, one
may expect good flavour, as King of the Earlies
is noted for that quality, but is too small when
forced to be much of a favourite. "J. C." de-
scribes it well when he states, as regards size, it
is smaller than Noble, but it is valuable as a free
setter and for its good clean growth. I can testify
to its good eating qualities when hard forced, and
I should say it will make a favourite market
variety. Last season I grew it for the first time
and was much pleased with its bright vermilion-
scarlet fruit, and being a firm berry it may be
packed for long distances, as it travels grandly.
Its rich, Queen-like flavour should make it
valuable where quality and not mere size are con-
sidered.—W. S. H.

Raspberries. — No time should be lost in prun-
ing old plantations and placing the canes in posi-
tion for fruiting. Newly-planted canes do best
pruned to within 6 inches of the soil. I advise

Strawberry Scarlet Queen. — I was pleased
to see the note on the above on page 216. It is
one of the new varieties we have had very little
information about, and "J. C.'s" commendation
at this season is opportune, as everyone who forces
is anxious to know what merits these new kinds
possess before going largely into their culture. I
am of the same opinion as " J. C." as regards earli-

Fill's heterophylla humulifolia . (See page 250

removal of the old canes as soon as the fruit is
gathered, but if neglected no time should be lost
in thinning, leaving from three to five canes to a
stool. It is also a good plan to cut down the
fruiting canes to a height of 3 feet or 4 feet, as if
strong and not too long very little support is
needed. After the canes have been tied a good
mulch of decayed manure should be placed along
the rows or directly over the roots. In gardens
where Raspberries do not thrive it is well to make
new plantations more frequently and feed more.
Autumn fruiters should be cut down and manured
freely and the new growth kept thinned. — B. M.

Strawberries. — I never saw the plants look so
bad as they do at the present time, the leaves
being quite destroyed as well as many surface roots.
Though the crowns of strong plants are uninjured,

the loss of top or leaf growth will cause a later
growth. The ground should be cleaned between
the plants and on poor land a dressing of soot,
guano or decayed manure should be lightly stirred
in. Previous to this the plants should be well
trodden round, as the frost will have lifted them
out of the ground. In giving manure either in a
liquid or other state, it is well to keep it free of
the crowns. In the case of newly-formed planta-
tions only a surface hoeing is necessary, as the
firmer the root-hold the plants have of the soil the
better they bear. Plants that have been wintered
in rows close together for spring planting should
now be set out in their permanent quarters in
deeply-dug, well-enriched soil, planting firmly and
giving strong-growing varieties more space, as it
is an easy matter to crop between this season with
dwarf growing vegetables. — G. Wythes.

STATE OF APPLE TREES.
Owing to the long spell of wintry weather very
much of the time annually spent uponthefruit trees
will have of necessity to be considerably
curtailed. If this results in the neglect
of pruning wall trees, then I have
nothing but regret to express, especi-
ally if it be the growths on the main
branches of Apples, Apricots, Cherries,
Pears and Plums that are allowed to go
untouched. Of what use is half the
walls in the country, seeing that already
the spurs on the trees against these stand
out to a distance of 9 inches or more ?
If, on the other hand, shortness of time
leads to the neglect — or what is felt
to be such — of pruning trees, notably
Apples and Pears, quite in the open,
there is every likelihood of this turning
out advantageously rather than other-
wise. Latterly I have critically in-
spected hundreds of garden trees, and,
I trust, have done good work in the direc-
tion of preventing so free a use of the
knife as formerly. In innumerable eases
trees are planted in good garden soil pre-
viously only devoted to vegetables, and
which are still to be principally cropped
with these. The Apple or other fruit
trees are not to occupy much room — in
fact, are to be fruited a la Rivers, with-
out, however, adopting the practice of
annually or biennially lifting ; and the
owners are not a little disappointed with
the result. Unless the trees, or bushes,
as these may be termed, become stunted
from the first, the crops of fruit are very
light indeed, while those that grow
strongly give a very plentiful crop of
branches every season.

So very stout and coarse do these
much-pruned trees become, that it is
doubtful if severe root-pruning would
do more than throw them into a stunted,
half- dead state; whereas a different
method of pruning would bring them
into a most productive state within two
years of the change being carried out.
At the present time there are so many
instances of good results following upon
what, in very many cases, was thought
to be a neglect on the part of the pruner, that the
lesson ought not to be forgotten. Wherever strong
growths formed during JS93 were left their full
full length, these are now bristling with fruit buds.
So well did the wood mature, that growths
exceptionally stout and long and not crowded
promise soon to be wreathed in flower ; and, as a
matter of fact, I never saw freely-gtown Apple
trees in a more promising state. Instead, there-
fore, of annually hacking ofl'all the young growths
of garden trees, the better plan would be to freely
thin out and leave the rest to their full length.
This may mean a considerable increase in the size of
the trees, but what of that ? Either they are worth
this extra room, or they ought to be rooted out
altogether. Dotting them about highly culti-
vated ground was a mistake in the first instance,

April 13, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

259

but when trees can be so quickly brought into a
free-bearing state, they must prove far more pro-
fitable than vegetables, and it is the latter that
should make way for the trees, and not the trees
for the vegetables. Latterly I have repeatedly
pointed out to amateurs and cottagers how unwise
they are to cut and hack about their trees just
because they happen to overlap some of their
vegetable ground. By all means thin out crowded
trees, but think twice before starting upon whole-
sale lopping.

Among the coal miners in this district are some
hard-working, painstaking men who take a par-
ticular pride in their gardens. Not having suffi-
cient confidence in their own ability to prune bush
or low Apple trees generally, they engage the
services of a so-called "experienced pruner." I
call him a " tree spoiler," and there are far too
many of this class of men in existence. When
they come to a tree they are afraid to prune very
severely ; they have not the sense to thin out
where necessary and leave the rest of the growths
to their full length, nor will they freely cut back
a newly-planted tree. What they do is to merely
top the growths and leave them, this being far
worse than no pruning at all. A topped growth
breaks near the cut ends, and very frequently the
lower half or more fails to push either a fruit or
wood bud, remaining quite naked for the rest of
its life. Either these growths should be cut back
hard enough to cause a strong back break of
shoots, with perhaps an occasional fruit bud or
spur, or else not cut at all. The former plan is
desirable when the foundation of a tree has yet to
be laid, but when fruit is the chief desideratum,
then allow a natural distribution of sap and a
natural break, this meaning fruit buds in
quantity. Pears, in spite of the heavy crops pro-
duced last season, would, but for the birds, have
flowered freely in many gardens, but as yet the
Apple buds are quite safe, and if we only experi-
ence a favourable spring, abundance of Apples
should be forthcoming. It is only fair to add that
the pruned trees also promise well, but more
naturally grown trees are particularly promising,
and, it is almost needless to say, will produce,
weather permitting, much the heaviest crops of
fine fruit. W. Iggulden.
Somerset.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
April 9.

Thkke was a considerable increase in the amount
of tabling at this meeting, but Orchids were again
the most attractive feature, although not so many
certificates were awarded. From the Burford
Lodge collection came a huge specimen of Cattleya
Lawrenceana in the finest possible condition, a
notable example of high-class cultivation. Several
fine forms of Odontoglossums were to be seen,
especially in varieties of O. triumphans, that to
which a fiist-class certificate was awarded being
in every way deserving of that distinction. Mil-
tonia Bleuana nobilior was also shown well. Catt-
leya Schicederw was likewise worthy of note, two
excellent specimens of this charming variety
coming from St. Albans, from whence was sent a
most vigorous example of Phaius Sanderianus.
Several hybrids of Veitchian origin were present,
I. alia Latona and Lalio-Cattleya Pallas superba
bting very fine. Several botanical curiosities were
sent from the Tring Park collection, of which note
will be found. A few splendid forms of Amaryllis
were sent from Chelsea, and others from Holloway,
from whence also came Clivias of the best kinds.
One of the features of the meeting was un-
doubtedly the many choice and particularly
fine varieties of the Anthurium, forms of A.
Scherzjrianum and A. Andreanum, in which
was likewise evinced the best possible cul-
ture. Thesa comprised plants as well as cut
spathes. Cut Roses from the point of popularity
and attractiveness were particularly good, those

from Colchester being the finer exhibit, but many
blooms in both stands were fully up to the ex-
hibition standard. Violets as fine as one could
wish, with delightful fragrance, were sent from
Swanley, whilst from Cheshunt and Tottenham
came hardy herbaceous and alpine flowers in the
best varieties. A good collection of Dracanas of
the newer kinds was staged. What, however, in
all probability created the most interest was the
seven fine plants in profuse flower, one mass of
rich orange colour, of Streptosolen Jamesoni,
from Mr. Bennett Poe, finer examples than which
have never before been seen. Daffodils were to
be seen in the best varieties — new and otherwise.
Beaumontia grandiflora was again shown from
Panshanger, where it is so well grown. A
thoroughly representative collection of vegetables
in season, forced and otherwise, came from Syon,
from whence also were sent highly-coloured La
Grosse Sucree Strawberries ; otherwise there was
but little for the fruit and vegetable committee to
examine.

Orchid Committee.

A first-class certificate was given to—

OdONTOCLOSSCM TRIUJ1PHANS LIONEL CRAW-

shay, which in the opinion of many was con-
sidered to be the finest variety yet seen of this
well-known Odontoglot. It has particularly broad
sepals and petals, almost twice the width of ordi-
nary forms, the ground colour of old gold being
relieved with dark Oak-coloured blotches, the
entire flower of fine form and substance and the
growth dwarf and compact. From Mr. De Barri
Crawshay, Rosefield, Sevenoaks.

Awards of merit were given to —

Ljelta klava var. aurantiaca, an intensely
rich marked form of this Brazilian species, with
deep orange or cinnabar-coloured flowers borne in
a cluster at the top of a slender spike as in the
case of the type, each bloom about 2 inches across,
the spike in question having nine such blooms.
From Lord Rothschild, Tring Park, Tring

Odontoclossum crispum Catterine, reported
to be a good form, but not en evidence, having, it
was stated, been removed at or soon after the
rising of the committee. No description can thus
be given. From Mr. F. Hardy, Ashton on-
Mersey.

Botanical certificates were awarded to Masde-
vallia ludibunda, quite a miniature species of
botanical interest possibly, but of no particular
beauty. From the Royal Botanic Gardens, <!las-
nevin. Bulbophyllum nigropetalum, a singular-
looking species with dark-coloured flowers, was
also given a botanical certificate. From Messrs.
Lewis and Co., Southgate.

Sir Trevor Lawrence sent a grand specimen
plant of Cattleya Lawrenceana bearing about one
dozen spikes, the finest of which had as many as
eleven flowers fully developed, each spike forming
quite a bouquet of bloom ; the variety also was
a good one and of deep colour (award silver Flora
medal).

Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons had a choice selec-
tion of their own hybrids and of spscies from
various genera, including another very fine ex-
ample of Cymbidium eburneo-Lowianum, which
one does not tire of seeing. The plant in ques-
tion was a very vigorous one, bearing two fine
spikes of large flowers in their best condition.
Lrelia Latona (L. purpurata X L. cinnabarina),
with rich orange-coloured flowers, a choice hy-
brid ; Cypripedium Cleola (C Boissierianum X C.
Schlimi album), which might appropriately be
called C. Sedeni album, its flowers being much
in the way of the last named hybrid, save in
colour ; Dendrobium atro-violaceum in good cha-
racter, Cattleya Schroedera;, a fine form with
broad petals and a dark golden blotch on the lip ;
Odontoglossum Ruckerianum, of which two dis-
tinct varieties were shown, one of these bearing a
stout branching spike ; Angrsecutn fastuosum, a
charming dwarf species with the purest of white
flowers, nestling close to the foliage ; Cattleya
TriansB delicata, a very handsome form, slightly
flushed in the sepals and petals, with the lip
similarly tinted and finely fringed, the deep gol-

den blotch being well displayed. Odontoglossum
crispum with 0. Roezli (Miltonia) were also in-
cluded. Masdevallia ignea, of which a profusely
flowered plant was to be seen ; Cypripedium cau-
datum (Luxembourg var.), with a stout tall spike
bearing fine blooms, in the sepals of which there
was apparent a deep golden yellow marking to-
wards the points ; and C. macrochilum, with two
large blooms, were also shown. Dendrobium Al-
cippe, with dark purplish tinted flowers ; Odon-
toglossum Rossi majus, a large form, with finely
marked blooms ; 0. Roezli album, very pure; 0.
Pescatorei, a pure white form quite devoid of
spots, very delicate and beautiful, the plant
bearing a splendid spike ; Dendrobium Farmeri
roseum, prettily tinted ; Cattleya Lawrenceana,
Cypripedium Winnianum (C. Druryi X C. vil-
losum), with the form of the former and more
of the colour of the latter parent ; C. obscu-
rum, a hybrid showing some affinity to C. Crossi-
anum ; also C. Argus and Dendrobium crassinode,
well flowered, with a small example of D. Hilde-
brandi, a pretty, but not a showy species, were
also sent (silver Banksian medal).

Messrs. F. Sander and Co. put up a very meri-
torious and effective group comprising Dendrobium
Brymerianum with particularly fine flowers, hav-
ing the papillose fringe in excellent character ; D.
dixanthum, pale golden yellow, rather small, but
quite distinct; D. Phahvnopsis Schra-derianum, of
which two unusually stout and vigorous plants
were shown, each bearing several spikes in various
stages upon the imported bulbs, these in one case
measuring 2 feet 6 inches in length with the
ends of the old spikes in numbers upon each ; and
Ccclogyne lentiginosa, in the way of C. barbate,
but more vigorous. Cattleya Schru-dera, of which
two splendid examples, quite specimens, were ex-
hibited, one, growing upon a raft, having fourteen
blooms, and another in a pot a larger number still ;
these two plants displayed the beauties of this
delicately tinted Cattleya to perfection ; Dendro-
bium Auguste Victoria, one of the tall-growing spe-
cies, having bulbs 5 feet long with spikes nearly
2 feet in length and nearly erect, each spike haying
a profusion of small white flowers (as manyas thirty)
of singular beauty ; D. amboinense, very singular
and pretty ; Oncidium Rogerai in its characteristic
rich colour ; Eulophiella Elizabethan with fivespikes,
a very healthy plant ; Lycaste Skinnen in its best
forms and of deep tints ; Spathoglottis aurea, a
stout example, also S. plicate with deep lilac-
purple flowers, quite a contrast to the foregoing ;
Odontoglossum crispum, a delicate tinted form,
suffused with purple, but void of spots in a
marked degree, the spike a fine one; 0. nevadense
and O. triumphans, each in good character, were
also shown ; Phaius Sanderianus was repre-
sented by a most vigorous example bearing one
strong spike more than 6 feet in height, with
only the first few flowers as yet expanded. 1 his
is a distinctly noble species, having dark lustrous
brown sepals and petals, with the lip at first
white, turning with age to a pale golden tint.
Cyrtopodium Woodfordi had a spike of greenish
flowers, the spike nearly as long as in the preced-
ing (silver Banksian medal).

Mr. Pitt, Stamford Hill, sent a well-flowered
group, comprising two good examples of V anda
suavis, each with two strong spikes ; Angra-cum
Sanderianum, A. sesquipedale, the latter with
fine flowers, very pure in colour ; Odontoglossum
Roezli and its white variety ; 0. crispum, deep in
colour ; Laslia harpophylla with six spikes ; tym-
bidium eburneum in good order ; Cypripedium
Chamberlainianum and Dendrobium thyrsitlorum,
in all a pretty group (silver Banksian medal).

Messrs. Lewis and Co., Southgate, sent a good
assortment well arranged, comprising a dark form
of Odontoglossum triumphans, a good variety of
O. hystrix, Cymbidium Lowianum (Southgate
var. ), with brighter sepals and petals ; Tricho-
pilia suavis, with very large and finely-marked
flowers ; Masdevallia Houtteana, in profuse flower
and of dark colour ; Odontoglossum lave superbum,
with dark sepals and petals and a lilac tinted lip ;
O. Andersonianum album ; Dendrobium Brymeri-

2G0

THE GARDEN

[Apif, 13, 1895

anum, good; and Cattleya Triana?, in capital va-
riety (silver Banksian medal).

From Baron Schrrvder camo the original and
true form of Cattleya Lawrenceana, very rich in
colour, notably the lip; also another and much
paler variety, pale mauve in colour, with white
marbling and an entire absence of the purplish
crimson on the lip; and yet another- C. Law-
renceana Vincki, better defined as violacea, it
having pale violet-tinted sepals and petals and
a dark, clouded violet blotch on the labellum ;
also a vigorous little plant of Dendrobium Cybele
(D. Findlayanum x D. nobile), a superb hybrid of
the first rank, the lip of which is strikingly fine ; and
a three-branched spike of Odontoglossum Ruckeri-
annm of deep colour. Mr. Statter had La>lio-
Cattleya Pallas superba (Lalia crispa x Cattleya
Dowiana), with blufh sepals and petals, and an
extra large elongated lip of deep violet-purple,
(he golden veins, so characteristic of C. Dowiana,
being greatly subdued; Cypripedium selligeium
atrorubens, a very dark form of sturdy growth,
bearing two spikes ; Cattleya SehroederaB splen-
dens, with a deeper tint of rosy pink on the lip,
setting off the golden blotch on same to good ad-
vantage. A good variety of Cattleya Mendeli was
also to be seen here. From Mr. De B. Crawshay
came Odontoglossum crispum var. with pure
white sepals and petals and spots and blotches of
the palest chocolate. 0. gloriosum (Rcsefield
variety) also came from this source. Mr. F.
Hardy showed Odontoglossum polyxanthum
(Hardy's var.), a distinct form with larger flowers,
well marked, and of extra size. From Lord
Rothschild's collection was sent a Cypripedium
(nat. hyb.) having a decided relationship to C.
Chamberlainianum, with the same peculiar twists
in the petals, the lip being more wedge-shaped
and the dorsal sepal with less green in it ; pre-
sumably it is a form of the species named, fcir
Trevor Lawrence staged a fine example of Mil-
tonia Bleuana nobilior with extra large flower the
size of those of Miltonia vexillaria, with much
of the character of those of M. Roezli. O. asper-
f"m violaceum came from the same source; also
Masdevallia leontoglossa, quite a dwarf species.
r°m, the s"me collection was sent Eulophiella Eli-
zabeths?, bearing a good spike; also Cypripedium
Kothschrldranum, with three grand blooms on the
one spike and the pretty hybrid Epidendrum
indresio-Walhsi. From the Royal Botanic Gar-
dens, Glasnevrn, were sent Phaius assamicus and
other Orchids. Messrs. Drover, Fareham, sent
Cattleya Triana- Princess Beatrice, with large,
somewhat loose flowers; also a small-flowered
plant of the type. Mr. Raphael, Castle Hill,
Lnglefield Green, had the finest spike of Eulo-
phiella Elizabeth* in the show, with twenty nine
flowers and buds. A grand example of Cattleya
guttata Prmzi came from Tring Paik. This form
has larger flowers, with a much lighter or creamy
ground colour spotted profusely with bright rosy
purple the growth being very vigorous. Lvlia
crisprlabra was also sent. It is of the L. flava
type, but with rose-purple flowers. Dendrobium
tetragonum, an Australian species; Bulbophyllum
mgro-petalum viride, a small, but most interest-
ing species; and Catasetum sp. were included
here. Major-General E. S. Berkeley, Spetchley,
sent a fine young example of Dendrobium Rolf*
roseum, tipped with bright purple, the lip of
a light creamy shade having a trace of purple
at the margin. Mr. Smee, The Grange, Carshal-
ton, sent a very fine variety of Cymbidium Lowi-
anum called viride, bearing a splendid spike of
eighteen flowers in which the crimson of the lip,
as in the type, is entirely absent. The sepals and
petals are of a lighter shade, whilst in the lip is
a trace of pale yellow.

Floral Committee.
A first-class certificate was awarded to—
Ataccia crist ata.— A curious plant of weird
aspect, having flowers of a shining purple-brown
colour, borne in thick clusters at the top of a
stout stem, with long thread-like appendages
hanging down between them. Its leaves Ire

large and handsome, and the specimen was a fine
one. A good illustration of this singularly quaint
plant was given in The Garden of July 17, 188G.
It was exhibited by Sir Trevor Lawrence.

Awards of merit were granted to the follow-
ing:—

Amaryllis Doris. — Another of the deep self-
coloured kinds which it is satisfactory to note are
encouraged. This variety has fine flowers, the
petals broad and of a rich crimson colour through-
out. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea.

Amaryllis Ciiimere. — This variety shows a
marked advance towards securing an Amaryllis
with pure white flowers, this colour quite pre-
dominating, varied only by a few slight fea-
thered bands of red, the flower of large size.
This also came from Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

Olivia Right Hon. J. Chamberlain. — A good
variety, with a large truss of brightly coloured
flowers. There is a great similarity in all these
named forms of Clivia, their differences being
merely a slight shade of colour or a little extra
breadth of petal. Shown by Messrs. J. Laing
and Sons, of Forest Hill.

Saxifraga Boydi alba. — A charming addition
to the early spring-flowering Saxifrages and a
gem for the rock garden, in habit identical with
S. Boydi, of which a coloured plate was given in
The Garden, July 5, 1890. Judging from the
example shown it blooms profusely. Exhibited
by Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt.

Anthdrium compactitm. — A variety with dis-
tinct merits, indicated by the name it bears, and
shown by Sir Trevor Lawrence.

Miscellaneous exhibits were varied and of a
most instructive character, especially 'the group
of hardy flowers from Mr. T. S. Ware, of Totten-
ham, which comprised all the best spring flowers
of the season. Primulas were conspicuous in the
group ; P. rosea in large pans, a perfect sheet of
bright rosy flowers ; P. denticulata and its white
variety very fine ; P. minima and P. Clusiana,
two charming alpine species, both having rosy
pink flowers ; P. verticillata and P. floribunda,
both with yellow flowers, but unfortunately not
quite hardy. Saxifrages were well represented
in S. Burseriana, S. sancta, S. luteo-purpurea,
S. Boydi and S. oppositifolia in several forms.
Puschkinia scilloides, Narcissus Bulbocodium,
N. reflexus, Iberis saxatilis, Anemone vernalis
and Chionodoxa gigantea were also note-
worthy. A silver Flora medal was awarded.
Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, also showed
a choice selection of seasonable flowers. Saxifraga
sancta, S. luteo-purpurea, S. Boydi and the white
form mentioned above, Megasea Stracheyi, Ane-
mone Pulsatilla, and ScopolinaHladnichiana, which
was certificated last year, were most striking.
Mezereon Paul's White is a good form of this
favourite shrub, the shoots being entirely hidden
with blossoms of ivory whiteness and strongly
scented. Amar3'llises and Cannas were also shown
by Messrs. Paul, a silver Banksian medal being
awarded. A similar award was given to Messrs.
Barr and Son for a large exhibit of cut Daffodils
and other hardy flowers, but owing to the back-
wardness of the season no Dntfodils appeared in
competition for the special prizes. Trumpet-
flowered kinds were well represented in Emperor,
Empress, Horsfieldi, tortuosus, princeps, Henry
Irving, and Golden Spur. Sir Watkin was fine,
also Queen Bess and Leedsi Minnie Hume among
star- flowered varieties. Anemone fulgens, A.
Pulsatilla, A. blanda, with Scillas and Chiono-
doxas completed the group.

Mr. Frank Cant, of Braiswick Nurseries, Col-
chester, received a silver-gilt Flora medal for an
exhibit of cut Tea Roses, the blooms in size and
colour being very fine at this earl}' period. Among
the best were Souvenir d'Elise Vardon, Niphetos,
Mme. Hoste, Catherine Mermet, Mme. de Watte-
ville, and May Rivers, a recent kind of great pro-
mise as here shown, having a fine full flower of
pure cream-white colour. Mr. Mount, of Canter-
bury, also shoved Tea Roses, receiving a silver
Flora medal.

An effective group of flowering and fine fol raged
plants, arranged by Messrs. J. L-ring and Sons,

included Olivias, Boronias, Begonias, Anthuriums,
Azaleas, and Saintpaulia ionantha, with Crotons,
Dracaenas, Palms, and Ferns. A silver Flora medal
was granted. Sir Trevor Lawrence received a
similar award for a large group of Anthuriums.
A. Scherzerianum was shown in many forms, of
varied colours, and other fine varieties were A.
burfordiense, with large spathe of deep crimson
colour ; sanguineum, bright red ; Lawrenceanum
and Archduke Joseph, distinct magenta-red.
From Mr. J. Bennett Poe, Holmwood, Cheshunt,
came some good specimens of Streptosolen
Jamesoni, figured in The Garden, July 5,
18S4, the plants comparatively young, but
well grown and profusely bloomed, attracting
much notice with their brilliant orange-red
flowers which were in large clusters all over the
plants. Calla aurata from the same source was
well shown, the leaves large, mottled with white,
the flowers pale yellow, but small. A large group
of Dracaenas from Messrs. J. Peed and Sons, many
varieties, well-grown specimens of medium size
and good colour, received a silver Banksian medal,
and a similar award was made to Messrs. B. S.
Williams and Son, of Holloway, for a group of
Clivias and Amaryllises. Messrs. J. Veitch and
Sons, Chelsea, showed Rhododendron Early Gem,
the plants from the open ground and covered
with flowers of a magenta-rose colour. It is one
of the earliest flowering kinds, but its flowers
soon suffer from frost. Stachyurus pra?cox and
Loropetalum chinense, both abundant in flower,
were also shown by Messrs. Veitch. Branches of
the first-named had been cut from bushes in the
open air. It is an interesting shrub, flowering
so early. Its little bell-shaped flowers are of
great substance, borne freely in short racemes
along the slender branches. Loropetalum chinens e
had evidently been brought into flower in a cool
house, otherwise it is hardy and evergreen,
having abundant leafage of a deep green
colour and bearing curious flowers, which come
on slender lateral branches in clusters. Two
large baskets of Violets, flowering plants pro-
fusely bloomed, the varieties Marie Louise,
Neapolitan and Swanley White, came from Mr.
Slogrove, gardener to Mrs. Crawford, Gatton,
Reigate. Mr. Charles Turner, of Slough, sent
plants in flower of the Tree Carnation Mrs. Hamlet
Riley, a pretty variety with pale pink flowers ;
and a group of finely-cut specimens of Arum Lily
came from Mr. A. J. Reid, gardener to Mr. F. C.
Carr, Farnham Chase, Slough. Beaumontia
grandiflora was well shown by Mr. Fitt, also
Habrothamnus scabratus, a large-flowering ra-
ceme of Cordyline australis and Glonera jas-
miniflora. Daphne Blagayana and Macleania
insignis, a distinct shrubby plant with long,
fleshy flowers of a bright coral-red colour, came
from Mr. Moore, Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin.
Seedling Daffodils were shown by the Rev. G. H.
Engleheart, one pretty hybrid, the result of a
cross between Horsfieldi and cyclamineus, being
most distinct, though it had gained nothing in
size from its larger parent. The flower was about
the same sizo as that of cyclamineus, with a, pale
sulphur-yellow trumpet and pale cream perianth
segments which were not reflexed. A seedling
from Golden Spur crossed with cernuus had a fine
flower of the same pale colour as cernuus, but
with a trumpet unusually large and expanded.
Other seedlings were shown by Mrs. Lawrenson,
Salerno, Killiney, Dublin, two star-flowered
kinds having flowers of fine size, with cups of
extra bright orange yellow colour.

Fruit Committee.
There was but a limited number of exhibits be-
fore this committee. A collection of twenty-four
varieties of vegetables was sent by Mr. G. Wythes,
Syon House Gardens, Brentford. They were very
tastefully set up, one half being forced, the other
from outdoors. Considering the severe weather
experienced in February this exhibit was most
interesting. The best forced dishes were As-
paragus cut from permanent beds in the open,
very good Seakale, a nice dish of Sburpe's Victor
Potato, Turnip Early Milan, Syon House and

April 13, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

2G1

Ne Plus Ultra dwarf Beans, Syon House and
Telegraph Cucumbers, Veitch's Maincrop and
Cattell's Eclipse Broccoli. The best green vege-
tables were Ellam's and Veitch's Earliest of All
Cabbage, Veitch's Green Curled and Dwarf Late
Kale, Victoria Round Spinach (very good), Wit-
loof Chicory, good Lyon and Musselburgh Leeks,
(iolden Ball Turnip, very fine Mushrooms and
Kales (silver Knightian medal). The same exhi-
bitor sent a very fine lot of La Grosse Sucree
Strawberries, large and of very good colour, re-
ceiving a cultural award for the same. He also
sent a dish of Victoria Round Spinach as gathered
from the open ground to show its hardines?. This
was desired to be sent to Chiswick for trial
to test it with Monstrous Virotlay, a French
variety. Mr. Goldsmith, The Gardens, Leonards-
lee, Horsham, sent a new Apple of great merit, a
late variety with firm flesh, brisk flavour, and
good either for dessert or cooking. The fruits are
medium-sized, with a deep crimson colour on
sunny side. The committee wished to see it
again.

In the absence of Mr. J. Wood the lecture on
"Garden Campanulas" was read by the assistant
secretary. The flower was dealt with from a
garden point of view, upon which the lecturer en-
larged considerably, confining his remarks entirely
to the perennial species. Many of them were ad-
mirably adapted for the rock garden, but he went
further, and suggested as the family was such a
large and important one that people should make
a Campanula garden. They were quite worthy of
being made a special feature of. He had himself
tried it on a small scale, and found that the family
gave a long season of sustained interest and
beauty. Another reason why he would make
Campanulas a special feature apart from other
things was that, deep blues and purples predomi-
nating, the family did not always associate well
with other flowers, but the Campanula garden
near to, and varied by choice shrubs might be a
tine feature. He gave an imaginary description
of such a garden, choosing a spot sloping down to
water upon the margin of which certain kinds
would thrive, briefly reviewing a host of species
from the little Campanula CGespitosa, that would
cover the ground with spreading tufts near the
margin, up to the tall growing kinds like C.
macrantha for the distant parts. He gave in-
structive advice as to culture and propagation,
making special mention of some species, as C.
pulla, whose roots were almost invisible when the
plant was dormant, and any division or increase
of stock must take place when the plants were in
growth.

ROYAL GARDENERS' ORPHAN FUND.

Annual Dinner.

The annual dinner of this fund took place on
April 5 in the Whitehall Rooms of the Hotel
Metropole. There was a large muster of sub-
scribers, and the tables were splendidly decorated
with the choicest flowers kindly sent by several
nurserymen for the occasion.

The chair was taken by Mr. H. J. Veitch, and
t here were also present amongst others Sir Trevor
Lawrence, Bart., Messrs. Sherwood, J. H. Veitch,
J. G. Veitch, W. Manning, Owen Thomas, J. Ass-
bee, J. Laing, R. Barr, H. J. Jones, H. Turner,
<;. Wythes, J. Hudson, J. Willard, B. Wynne,
G. Gordon, F. Moore, C. Penny, and many others.

After the usual loyal toasts had been proposed,
the chairman proposed the toast of the evening.
" Success to the Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund,''
coupling with it the name of Mr. Sherwood.
Mr. Veitch in the course of an able and sympa-
thetic speech said he would like the name of the
institution changed to the Royal Jubilee Orphan
Fund, as it would give it a distinctive mark as
being founded in the Jubilee year, and also would
not clash with another body. Those present
had a good opportunity of hearing how great has
been the progress of the fund, the chairman
tracing it from its birth upwards, and he felt sure

everyone was glad to see present that evening on
this first occasion at the annual dinner Mr. Chas.
Penny, who originated the fund, or threw out the
suggestion, in the year 1887. An average of nine
children have been elected every year since, and
he thought it was good cause for congratulation
to know that there were now sixty-four children
receiving benefit from the fund, and in certain cases
at the age of fourteen an allowance was made to
give the orphan a start in the world, which, it
need not be said, was of inestimable value. Each
year the sum of £832 is paid out for the children,
and since the fund staited £3237 has been dis-
tributed. The chairman said the amount invested
partly in consols and partly in Canadian stock was
£7587, and at the bankers there was a sum of
£8395. He said he thought a reserve fund most
essential, which should be increased in the same
ratio as the increase in the number of children re-
ceiving benefit, and a warm tribute was paid to
Mr. A. F. Barron, the honorary secretary, for his
painstaking work in the past. Mr. Veitch said it
was cause for regret that at the last election half
of the candidates the fund could not assist, and
he impressed on all gardeners the importance of
assisting in its maintenance.

Mr. Sherwood said the thanks of all were due
to Mr. Veitch for the great part he took in help-
ing forward all charitable works, and said the
Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund must be kept
well before the public, so that they could know
of its importance; and one suggestion was made —
that of establishing a cot at one of the hospitals.
He said a little self-denial would effect this.

Mr. Assbee proposed the toast of "Gardeners
and Gardening," and at the outset mentioned
that this toast was to have been proposed by Mr.
Marshall, who, unfortunately, could not attend
through indisposition. Mr. Assbee, in an ex-
cellent speech, said the love of flowers was deeply
rooted, and in referring to gardeners mentioned
those who have recently passed away, instancing,
as an example of industry, the late Mr. Thomson,
of Clovenfords (who had raised Grape-growing for
market to such a pitch of perfection), Mr. Thomas
Baines and and Mr. W. Dean.

The toast of "The Chairman" was received with
much enthusiasm, an*l Mr. Veitch endeavoured to
get as large a sum as possible for the fund in
which he evinces so much interest. As a result
the sum of £817 10s. 6d. was recorded as having
been collected, a few of the larger amounts of
which are as follows : H. J. Veitch, 50 guineas ;
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, 25 guineas ; Messrs.
.1. H. Veitch and J. G. Veitch, 10 guineas each : Mr.
Sherwood £35 10s. : Messrs. Rothschild, £73 10s.;
a Covent Garden Market table, 50 guineas ; a
Masonic table, £35 9s. ; H. J. Jones and personal
friends, £55 ; Messrs. Wills and Segar's col-
lecting list, £40 ; Sir Julian Goldsmid, £21 ; Baron
Schra-der, £30; Mr. Hill, Tring Park (collected),
£20; Mr. W. Robinson, 15 guineas ; Sir Trevor
Lawrence, £10 10s. ; Mr. Haywood, 10 guineas;
Mr. A. Moss, 15 guineas; Mr. Reynolds, Gunners-
bury Park (collected), £37 lis., besides others.
The reading of these amounts was received with
applause.

Mr. H. J. Veitch, in replying to the toast of
" The Chairman," said great praise was due to
Mr. Barron, who had done so much, and also the
stewards. He felt very gratified at the splendid
list of subscriptions.

Mr. Barron on rising was received with en
thusiasm. He said he intended to do his utmost
to assist the continued prosperity of the fund as
long as health was spared him.

Other speakers were Mr. Gordon, who replied
for the press, Mr. Harry Turner, &c.

We may mention that the decoration of the
ta' les was entrusted to Miss Hudson, who did
her work well.

has been possible at other shows held by this
society hitherto, inasmuch as that of this year is
to be held in the same place and at the same time
as the great metropolitan show of the National
Rose Society, at which it is well known there is
always an enormous crowd of spectators and
ardent florists from all parts of the kingdom. To
all growers we appeal, being anxious to show the
public, in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis
(where the Pansy and Viola have been somewhat
either neglected or unknown), what a charming
display can be made by these lovely flowers when
properly treated.

London Pansy and Violet show. — We de-
sire to draw the special attention of amateur and
professional growers of the Pansy and Viola to the
exceptional opportunity which this year's exhibi-
tion will afford of spreading the taste for their
favourite flower through a much wider circle than

MARCH IN SOUTH DEVON.
During the month of March the rainfall amounted
to 311 inches, or0'12 of aninch above theaverage
for the last seventeen years, and 194 inches in
excess of the rainfall for March, 1894, the number
of days on which rain was recorded being fifteen.
The rainfall for the first three months of 1805 has
reached 7 22 inches against 7 S3 inches during
the same period of 1894. Of sunshine, 151
hours 20 minutes were registered, this being
2 hours above the average, but 30 hours 50
minutes less than in the corresponding month of
1894. The month's mean temperature of 43'S0 is
12° above the average. On twelve nights the
thermometer on the grass fell below freezing
point, the lowest reading being 25°, or 7° of frost,
on the 4th. The wind for twenty-five out of the
thirty-one days blew from the S. or W., its highest
velocity being reached on the 24th, when 789
miles, or an hourly average of 329 miles for the
twenty-four houis were recorded.

In the garden the end of the first week saw the
Crocuses glowing in patches of purple, gold and
white on the brown beds. The chaste white Crocus,
with its golden anthers, is decidedly the most
attractive both to the eye of the flower-lover and
to the appetite of the burly humble-bees who
tumble clumsily into the white chalices and anon
emerge again laboriously, their banded bodies
covered with floury gold-dust. The Snowdrops
naturalised by the waterside in the wood are
hardly flowering so thickly as last year, but per-
haps, now that their masses of bloom are less
dense, they are more beautiful, since the indi-
vidual flower-bells show to greater advantage
among the trailing Ivy net and shimmering blue
of their glaucous leaves.

The Arabis was the first flower to recover after
the frost relaxed its iron grip, clumps in the rock-
work being white with flowers before the leaves
showed signs of green. Now that the Wallflowers
are all, or almost all killed, the bees have flocked
to the Arabis patches in hundreds and the air has
been drowsy with their hum, while now and again,
in the mid-day sunshine, hybernated tortoise-shell
butterflies opened and shut dilapidated pinions
on the snowy petals.

On the 15th the first of the Spring Snowflakes
(Leucojum vernum) unclosed its buds, and soon a
goodly colony were nodding their twin, green-
margined bells in the breezes. In one garden
that I visited the Summer Snowflake (L. sativum)
was also in flower, and I found that this particular
clump has always bloomed simultaneously with
its naturally earlier congener. Chionodoxa Lucilia;
and C. sardensis have made a fine show where
they were planted thickly enough and were well
established, the latter being decidedly the more
effective in colour. C. Lucilue exhibits consider-
able variation when allowed to seed, some of the
seedlings showing much more vivid colouring than
the ordinary type. I have just seen C. gigantea and
C Alleni in the garden of a noted grower in the
neighbourhood, but was not particularly struck by
them. Perhaps after they have become established
they will show the improved form that is claimed
for them. In this garden the first Narcissus to
open was N. obvallaris (the Tenby Daffodil) on the
18th a month later than last year. Then came
Van Zion on the 21st, Golden Spur on the 23rd,
and cernuus on the 28th, followed by maximus
and some of the Ajax section that I collected in
Spain on the 20th. With the exception of Stella,

2i2

THE GARDEN

[April 13, 1895.

which is showing- a prodigal supply of buds, none
of the Narcissi seemed destined to make a striking
display this year. Some clumps evidently will
not throw up more than one or two blooms. This
is probably owing to the last summer having been
so damp and sunless. The buds of the Christmas
Rose (H. altifolius), after lying frozen and prone
since early in January, thawed in the beginning
of the month, and soon becoming erect again
opened well and afforded a handful of welcome
flowers on the 7th. This Christmas Rose has had
an unusually protracted flowering season this
winter, the first bloom being cut in October, while
it will be well into the middle of April before the
last are expanded, a period of nearly six months,
during t«o of which, however, animation was
suspended. Hepaticas of vaiious colours have
been and still are bright, but have suffered, in
company with the more tender-leaved Hellebores,
from the loss of their leaves, which sadly detracted
from their appearance. Crocus Imperati, with its
outer coat of buff', is too seldom seen in gardens,
but it is worth growing, while the bright blue
of the Scillas, that outshines even that of the
Chionodoxas, is indispensable for banks and beds.
The Dog's-tooth Violet (Erythronium dens-canis),
both the common variety with rosy flowers and the
white, are at their best during March, and are in-
valuable for the rock garden, their curiously mot-
tled leaves adding to their quaint beauty. Another
charming March-blooming plant for the same
position is Sisyrinchium grandiflorurn, especially
its variety S. g. album, the satiny white flowers
of which, drooping amidst the thin Rush-like foli-
age, produce an exceedingly graceful effect.
Primula denticulata is also well worthy of natural-
isation, but where unprotected its foliage has suf-
fered from the lats severe weather.

The month had nearly waned ere I saw the pic-
ture that struck me as being as near perfection in
scheme of colour and form as could well be
attained — on a mossy bank a colony of Lent
Lilies growing out of a blue carpet of Anemone
apennina. It was one of the harmonies of Nature
— pale yellow and pale blue blended by the blue-
green leaves of the Narcissi and the lower tones of
the foliage of the Anemones. S. VV. F.

Notes of the Week.

Scutellaria Mocciniana was well shown at
the Drill Hall on Tuesday, and attracted much
notice by reason of its brilliant colour. The
flowers, borne in thick clusters at the tips of the
erect shoots, are very numerous and strikingly
effective in colour, which is bright scarlet.

"Violets from Ireland.— I send some Violet
blooms — Marie Louise, Coolcronan Hybrid and
Comte de Brazza. I think the Coolcronan Hy-
brid is specially good. All will bear comparison
wiih those noted in last issue of The Garden.
— P. K. Gore, Coolcronan, Ireland.

*.* A fine lot, the Coolcronan Hybrid a large
and exejuisite Violet. — En.

Glorrera jasminiflora. — This, one of a 'large
genus of Brazilian shrubs, was shown on Tuesday
by Mr. Fitt from Panshanger Gardens, where
many tropical-flowering shrubs of great beauty
are well grown. It is a pretty thing, having thick
clusters of flowers at the top of a leafy stern, the
flowers much resembling those of the Honey-
suckle in shape and arrangement, in colour pure
white.

Primula Forbesi.— This species, a recent in-
troduction from China, was shown in fine form at
the Drill Hall on Tuesday by Sir Trevor Lawrence.
The plants, which filled a large pan, had evidently
been grown in a warm house, anel they were a
perfect mass of graceful blossoms. The[slender
flower-stems vary in length up to 12 inches, with
the flowers in whorls, exceedingly numerous, of
a pretty clear lilac colour with orange eye.
Among all the Primulas there is not another kind

so elegant and profuse in bloom as this. It ha3
short-stalked hairy leaves which forma close tuft.

Odontog-losstm Rossi majus. — I send you a
box of cut blooms of Odontoglossum Rossi majus,
twelve sprays in variety, and should be pleased
to hear what you think of them. I received the
plants in February, 1893, just as imported. — W.
Eastwood, The Garden*, Height Side, Newchurch,
Manchester.

*#* A remarkable collection of forms of this
popular Orchid. Some of them are in our opinion
deserving of varietal names. — Ed.

Puschkinia scilloid.es. — This gem among
early spring flowering bulbs deserves to be more
popular. It is one of the prettiest things flower-
ing at the present time, and though nearly allied
to the Scillas, it is quite distinct, with a charac-
teristic beauty of its own. Its flowers, delicate
in colour, bluish white, with a deep blue line down
the centre of the petals, are very numerous and
borne in a compact head on a stem nearly G inches
in length.

Hippeastrum splendens. — This pretty free-
flowering species was noticeable in Mr. Sander's
group at the Drill Hall on Tuesday, anel it would
no doubt be a popular plant if it were more
amenable to cultivation. Bulbs when fresh im-
ported flower abundantly, but under cultivation
they soon deteriorate. It is a free-flowering
species, most of the bulbs shown having three
flowering spikes. The flowers are large, graceful
in form, and of a light red colour.

Tulipa Kaufmanniana. — This, one of the
earliest Tulips already in flower, is ' a pretty
species, and so robust in habit that the storms
scarcely mar its beauty. Its flower is very large,
borne on a stout, erect stalk about 6 inches in
height ; the petals externally greenish yellow,
with a feathered band of red down the centre, and
internally pale cream-yellow, deepening into sul-
phur at the base. The flower both in its fine
proportions and delicate colour is most distinct,
and the species is a welcome acquisition, whose
merits and beauty should he widely known.

Daffodils. — A clump of the common double
Daffodil here which usually produces a dozen
flowers or more shows but one solitary bloom this
season, and this at an unusually late date, viz.,
April 4. As a contrast, on referring to my diary,
I find that the same clump came into bloom on
March 4 in the year 1SS4 — exactly a month earlier.
I daresay this late and impoverished blooming is
the result of the uncommonly severe frost last
February, which killed outright some well-esta-
blished plants of Geranium pratense var. album
and Cyclamen coum vernum in the same border.
— W. M., Wexford.

Salvia Heeri.— At Broad Oaks, By fleet, this
is grown exceedingly well, and the bright scarlet
flowers are borne in great profusion. The variety
here is considered a good one ; the flowers certainly
seem larger and deeper in colour than those of
the ordinary type. This may, of course, be
owing to the locality or soil being specially suit-
able. The practice is to strike young plants each
year. This is an easy matter, as Salvias are not
at all difficult to root. They are then planted out
in the open garden, and remain there until
September, when they are placed into pots in or-
dinary potting mould. Salvia Heeri is naturally
branching, but if there be a danger of the plants
growing tall, take out the tops to make them bushy.
When coming into bloom a little generous treat-
ment in the way of stimulants is found beneficial.
— H. S.

Clematis indivisa lobata. — I never saw this
plant in greater beauty than at The Oaks, Byfleet.
One specimen covers the larger portion of the roof
of a good-sized conservatory, and although the
bloom is a little past its best, one can form an
idea of its value for the purpose. It is literally
covered with masses of white blossoms, which
last a considerable time in a cut state. Its
cultural requirements are simple. Plant it in a
compost of loam, peat and sand, give it a fair
root-run, and do not stint the water supply. It

needs little pruning unless it be to keep it within
a limited space, for when once established it grows
with much freedom. Loose training adds to its
beauty, as the branches of bloom hang gracefully
at some distance from the glass roof. — H. S.

Strawberry Royal Sovereign.— It would be
difficult to give too much praise to this as a good
forcing variety. A batch brought on under pre-
cisely the same conditions as wereLaxton's Noble,
Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, John Ruskin, and
Competitor ripened their fruit a week before the
Vicomtesse and ten days before Noble, while
Ruskin and Competitor are still further in the
rear. Royal Sovereign throws its flower-trusses,
which are sturdy, well above the foliage in marked
distinction to some of the other varieties, espe-
cially John Ruskin, which seems a weak grower.
Besides being the earliest to ripen fruit, Royal
Sovereign is easily bearing the palm in weight of
crop, the plants averaging about half a pound's
weight of fruit on each. Exceptional berries
weigh 1J ozs. and are particularly taking in
appearance, being of a brilliant shining red. For
earliness and heavy cropping this Strawberry
appears to he facile princeps. — S. W. F.

Carpenteria dying-. — Mr. Ewbank is puzzled
about the death of his Carpenteria. Perhaps I can
help him to explain it. I had the plant first more
than a dozen years ago. Since that I have had
several plants which have done well, grown into
good bushes, flowered well, and one after another
they have died. The explanation is that the plant
is not a long-live'l one, and the same explanation
applies to many ] «.nts which are supposed to be
killed by the frost. Plants die from many other
causes than cold, though the cold is generally
made to bear the blame of all. As to protection
for shrubs, I am sure that the two necessaries are
to keep in warmth at the roots by mulchings of
all sorts and to protect against high winds by
screens of almost any description. It is much too
early yet to say what is saved and what is lost. I
would strongly advise everyone to be very slow
about cutting down or pulling up anything yet.
Of course, there must be many losses, but there
will be some very unexpected gains, like Mr.
Ewbank's Poincia'na. — Henry N. Ellacombe,
Billon Vicarage, Bristol.

William Thomson Memorial Fund.— We
are asked to state that a fund is being raised to
commemorate the services to horticulture of the
late William Thomson, of Clovenfords, the sum
collected to be given to the Gardeners' Royal
Benevolent Institution and the Royal Gardeners'
Orphan Fund. Should a sufficient sum be obtained,
it is proposed to keep a pensioner in perpetuity
on the funds of each institution. To enable this
to be done a sum of £1250 is necessary ; a per-
petual pension to the G. R.B.I, requiring £750,
and that to the R.G.O.F. £500, the power of
electing these pensioners being in the hands of
the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society,
Edinburgh. Should a sufficient sum not be
obtained for this purpose, it is proposed to divide
the amount raised between the two institutions
proportionately. It is hoped that a very liberal
response will be made not only because of the
esteem in which Mr. Thomson was held, but also
on account of the object to which the fund is to
be devoted. Executive committee for England :
H. J. Veitch, chairman ; A. F. Barron, Chiswick ;
Bruce Findlay, Manchester ; J. George, Putney ;
P. E. Kay, Finchley ; G. Monro, Covent Garden ;
G. Norrrran, Hatfield ; F. Sander, St. Albans ;
J. Smith, Mentmore ; R. Tait, Manchester ;
0. Thomas, Frogmore ; H. Williams, Holloway ;
G. Wythes, Syon House ; J. G. Veitch, honorary
secretary, R. E. Nursery, 544, King's Road,
Chelsea, S.W., to any of whom subscriptions may
be sent. It is proposed to close the fund on
May 1.

Names of plants— S.N. T. — I, Lacherralia tri-
color ; 2, Frauciscea calycina ; 3, Abutrlon vexillarium ;

4, Chorozema varium. W. A.—l, Jasminura gra-

cillimunr ; 2, cannot undertake to name Roees or ariy
florists' flowers.

THE GARDEN

263

No. 1222. SATURDAY, April 20,1895. Vol. XLVII.

"This Usui Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

Chrysanthemums.

NOTES ON RECENTLY INTRODUCED

VARIETIES.

To be successful in the cultivation of the popular
autuom flower not the least important matter
is the study of the ways and peculiarities of each
individual kind. Hardly two sorts are alike in
constitution, shape of flower and time of bloom-
ing. Others again are specially valuable for one
mode of culture only, that is, for the growth of
gigantic exhibition flowers. The system is, of
course, one which has tended more than any
other to make the Chrysanthemum what we
find it to-day, but still it is after all only one
of the many uses for which the plant ia so
admirably adapted. One would imagine that
with the hundreds of new kinds raised each year
the wants of all classes of admirers of the flower
would be well supplied ; but are they ? There
is still a dull, dingy look among the pink and
red-coloured early varieties. Many of the most
handsome blooms are obtained on plants which
reach an abnormal height, and how prized would
be more change, particularly brighter colours,
among sorts that naturally bloom late ; some-
thing that would light up the period of Christ-
mas and after. Late whites are fairly plentiful,
but yellows are still scarce ; and if the fashion
is to be a guide, it seems late Chrysanthemums
will be in demand.

A. H. Fewkes.— Of the richest yellow, with
long, broad, heavy florets. The shape is hand-
some, while the habit of the plant is very sturdy.
This variety came late last season from America,
but it certainly promises to be a sort we shall esteem
when better known. It is likely to develop fine
exhibition blooms as well as prove valuable for the
supply of flowers in quantity. For the former
purpose choose flower buds which show about the
middle of August and treat the plant generously
in the way of a large pot and stimulants.

Cecil Wray. — When this variety was success-
ful in obtaining the first-class certificate of the
National Chrysanthemum Society it was seen in
splendid form, large, spreading, and in every way
a fine type of the Japanese. The colour is a
bright , clear yellow, florets flat and of great length.
Its habit of growth is dwarf and sturdy, the foliage
handsome and retained on the stem to the last.
I expected to find this variety much in evidence
at exhibitions last season, but, curiously, it was
among the least shown. Whether this" fact was
through over-propagation or caused by the un-
commonly wet summer it would be hard to say,
but I feel sure we shall again see it figuring con-
spicuously among the choicest exhibition kinds.
Its habit, too, as well as the formation of the
flowers should make it popular for cutting.
Treat this variety well, give it ample pot room,
and for large blooms select the early buds.

Col. Chase. — This sort was obtained from the
same seed bed as the last named, and when I
first saw it I was particularly struck with
the chaste and charming colour — a blush cerise
shade. The drooping form, too, was very taking.
But after cultivating it a season, I have placed it
among the second-rate kinds. It grows too tall.
The foliage is spare and comparatively unattrac-
tive, and its blooms will not come large enough
for exhibition. For other purposes there are
better and more striking sorts of similar colour.
This sort does not require a large pot, and for
show one must select early flower-buds.

Commandant Blusset. — Here we have a splen-
did kind in every respect. The colour is rich
carmine-red. The blooms attain a large size ; the
florets are long, narrow, and handsomely drooping.
It is dwarf in growth, with fine foliage of a dark
green colour ; somewhat early to bioom. It is
a magnificent kind for exhibition, and not less
valuable for grouping and for the supply of a
quantity of blooms as a bush plant. For exhibi-
tion select crown buds, which appear early, give
it a pot of 10 inches diameter, and treat it well in
the way of stimulating manures, which may, how-
ever, be withheld when the blooms show colour.
Like most of the highly coloured sorts, it is apt to
burn or damp.

Desdemona.— This is an exceedingly graceful
and handsome flower, large, full, with very long,
narrow, drooping florets. The colour is a pale
rosy pink. Its only fault is a somewhat tall
growth, but where the cultivator does not mind
this and requires a fine bloom for the show-board,
the variety should be added. The early crown
buds may be selected. One might try cutting
down this variety during June.

Deuil de Jules Ferry. — I am certain we have
not seen this variety at its best. When first sent
from France a couple of seasons back it appeared
remarkably promising, but owing to a late start
last year as well as a sunless season, it was not
Eeen in anything like good form. Its unique
shade of violet-rose colour was, however, still
there ; also the slightly drooping formation and
perfectly double flowers. The florets are wide
and long. It is of medium height with ample
foliage. Being somewhat late, early buds should
be secured for exhibition blooms, and as a
naturally late-blooming kind, it will prove valu-
able for cut flowers on account of its striking
colour and lasting qualities. Give the variety
ample pot room.

Duchess of Wellington. — This deep golden
yellow flower was seen in good form last year on
plants which were rooted late, and consequently
had a short season. I expect, therefore, with
longer time to develop it will be still finer
this year. It is essentially a show flower. The
florets are fairly broad and go off to pointed
tips. The form is loosely incurving and the
bloom forms a full rich mass. The growth of the
plant is excellent and the foliage handsome. Se-
cure early buds. Do not employ very large pots,
but the plant will respond to stimulating manures.

Duchess of York. — This novelty was well and
consistently exhibited from the middle of October
to the end of November, a pretty good test of its
merits. It is of medium height and has very fine
foliage. Its cultural requirements are simple.
Allow ample pot room and, like all the yellow-
sorts, abundant supplies of water. The colour is
particularly pleasing ; not deep, but clear. Its
formation is of the informal drooping type, grace-
ful and imposing. Large enough to suit the tastes
of the exhibitor, it is equally useful for the supply
of a large number of flowers on a plant, and is,
perhaps, the best new variety seen last autumn.

(iriRLANPE. — This sort is not of the gigantic
order, but its deep, full reflexed blooms are re-
markable for substance. The colour is white,
tinted salmon. It is a good grower, of medium
height, and a sort that will be much esteemed
when better known.

Hairy Wonder. — Varieties of the hairy -
petalled class were never very popular. Mrs.
Alpheus Hardy is very beautiful, but most diffi-
cult of culture. If, however, these curious types
aro to be in favour, there is no sort so likely to
bring popularity as the one at the head of this
note. When at its best the colour is a brown-buff
shade, at once distinct and pleasing. The flowers
are large, massive and well formed. Its florets
point inwards just enough to exhibit the remark-
able number of light, hairy spines, which give
the blooms a downy appearance. The plant is
vigorous, therefore easily grown. Do not select
early buds ; those that appear in early September
will produce the prettier blooms. I should like
to see a bush plant of this variety very slightly
disbudded. It would certainly form a choice and

taking object. It is well to use 9- inch pots, but
the variety must not be overdone with manure.

La Meije is a well-formed, pure white flower
of large size. The habit is somewhat tall. Ex-
hibitors will, however, find it a very useful sort
to add to the lists.

Le Rhone. — This light soft yellow is a capital
sort on account of the sturdiness of its growth. It
is good for exhibition, and perhaps more valuable
still as an easily cultivated, well-shaped flower for
any other purpose. Early-formed buds do not
develop well.

Mme. Carnot. — Pure white varieties have a
most handsome addition in this new kind. Tho
flowers may be obtained of huge size by growing
the plant on the orthodox exhibition rules, viz. , con-
centrating all its energy to three blooms. In this
case the long narrow florets interlace and build up
a graceful mass. Its habit is excellent, and in the
matter of foliage it is one of the most striking
kinds in existence ; good in any style of growth
and certain to become popular. Use large pots
for this variety, but do not overfeed with manure.
White Chrysanthemums are easily ruined by
stimulants. Select rather late-formed buds. The
blooms from early buds have a thin, spidery appear-
ance.

Miss Maggie Blenkiron.— When well grown
this is an exceptionally handsome exhibition
flower. It is slightly incurved in form and the
colour is bronzy yellow ; the florets are thick and
massive and the growth of the plant remarkably
sturdy. Early buds must be chosen. This is
not a useful sort for the supply of a quantity of
blooms on a plant. The variety requires a long
season to do it well ; therefore start with a good
specimen.

M. Ch. Molin.— This is one of the most striking
sorts seen last year. The combination of yellow
and bronze is indescribably rich and striking.
Its flowers are of reflexed shape, thus showing
the upper surface of the florets, large, full, and
massive ; habit dwarf and the plant of easy cul-
ture. Early buds may be had for large blooms,
and its qualities are likely to make it valuable
as a variety for the supply of flowers in quantity.

M. Gruyer is an excellent sort; colour white
with a rosy tinge. The blooms grow large,
full, and massive. Its form is of the slightly
drooping character and the florets are notable for
substance. This should prove alike valuable for
exhibition and other purposes. The habit of
growth is excellent. It will do well with ample
pot room and requires generous treatment in the
way of fertilisers.

M. Pankoucke.— This variety is to my thinking
the finest yellow Chrysanthemum we have had
since the introduction of Sunflower. Its only
defect is just a slight want in the brightness of
its colour. The blossoms are large and of a true
Japanese character — that is, fantastic in arrange-
ment of the florets. The flower stem is stiff, thus
holding the bloom firmly, and the growth all that
one can desire. For exhibition select early buds
and give it ample root space. An amateur's sort,
because easily grown and handsome withal.

Mrs. E. G. Hill.— American introductions are
usually late- blooming, but here is a sort at its
best in October. The colour is a pleasing shade
of lavender, tinted white. It is of most easy cul-
ture and not too tall. Blooms grow to the
standard of size required by exhibitors, and it is
among the most valuable kinds when allowed to
develop all its flower-buds. Give this sort a good-
sized pot.

Mrs. W. H. Lees.— Colour white, slightly
tinted pink. Late blooms are distinctly pink
shaded. It is of immense size and exceedingly
graceful in form, having long drooping florets.
As a show bloom it is very fine, but its rather tall
habit detracts from its value as a variety for more
general culture. Early flower-buds should be
selected and the ample foliage points to the fact
that it requires a good-sized pot and abundance of
moisture at the roots.

Mrs. E. S. Trafford.— A bronzy rose sport
from the amateur's typical flower, Wm. Tricker,
which cannot be other than welcome. It is among

264

THE GARDEN

[April 20, 1895.

the easiest to cultivate, has a dwarf habit and good
from any buds. Being somewhat early, it is well,
however, not to secure those that form before
August for the November period. My practice
with the type is to restrain the natural vigour by
using small pots, that is, not larger than a 9-inch
size.

Niveum.— Any mention of recent Chrysanthe-
mums that did not include this variety would be
incomplete. It is for all uses the finest pure
white sort we have. Every good quality is pos-
sessed by this flower— purity of colour, nice form,
substance of petal, erect flower-stem, good habit,
and easy to grow. This sort should be cultivated
by all. It is safe to say that in a year or two we
shall not only see it on every exhibition stand,
but the flower markets will demand it in abund-
ance.

Richard Dean.— This sort has not yet been
seen at its best. I am certain it will become es-
teemed. It is of large size and very effective in
colour— crimson and gold. It has a dwarf, sturdy
growth. Employ large pots, select early buds,
and give it generous treatment in the way of fer-
tilisers.

Rose Wynne.— Many persons object to the in-
curving form of the Japanese. This is one of the
type, but most informal in arrangement of the
petals, which are long and broad. The bloom
builds up to a large size and is useful as an exhi-
bition variety. Colour white, just a little tinted
with pink. It is a good grower, of medium height.

Sir Edwin T. Smith. — This variety possesses a
taking shade of deep rich yellow and the reflexed
shaped flowers are massive. Its fault is a weak
flower-stem, which makes it unsuited for other
purposes besides exhibition blooms. The habit
is excellent. Choose buds of early formation.

Souvenir de Petite Amie.— The growth of
this variety is of a very dwarf nature and the foli-
age handsome. Its flowers are large and of snowy
whiteness, of recurved form, thus exhibiting the
glossy upper surface. For show, bush plants,
grouping, or the supply of a quantity of blooms
it will prove an acquisition. Use large pots for
this sort, but do not give it much manure in any
form. I prefer bones in the soil for white varie-
ties, refraining from the use of fertilisers after-
wards.

Wilfred Marshall.— As a bright yellow show
bloom this should be valuable. It is incurved in
form, very large and striking. It is easily grown,
with a nice dwarf habit of growth and large
1 ;aves. Select early buds, for, like most of the in-
curved Japanese type, it takes a considerable time
to develop the blooms.

All the foregoing belong to the Japanese
section. Many other sorts seen for the first
time last autumn require a year's trial before
one can write anyihing definitely about them.
We know by experience that the fact of a
variety being awarded a first-class certificate
does not of itself prove that such variety is
worthy of general cultivation. The blooms
only are adjudicated upon. These, perhaps
have been obtained from a weakly plant or one
of ungainly growth. They may, again, be pro-
duced from skilfully manipulated stems or by
mere chance, which may never recur. Foi
example, the magnificent bloom seen of Mrs
C. E. Shea was I believe, the only one pro-
duced. Philadelphia was grown in a climate
thousands of miles away. Of Pallanza it is too
early to speak, and so on through a list of most
promising kinds. jj g

Woking.

STANDARD OF CHRYSANTHEMUM
BLOOMS.
Mr. Tallack and Mr. Douglas do not apparentlv
ajrej as to the standard that should be adopted
in j idging Chrysanthemum blooms. Mr. Douglas
is allufing to blooms that have been grown mauih
to bring out all the points of which they are
capable, each variety in its own way. The method

by which this end is attained is to limit the
number of blooms upon a plant. Mr. Tallack is
evidently alluding chiefly to plants for de-
coration. This system of culture is better known
as the "bush" method of growing the plants.
If I am right in my supposition, the two methods
afford no room whatever for argument ; both are
correct in their own particular sphere. Mr.
Douglas, I am sure, admires the class of plant which
Mr. Tallack favours. The standard "set up by
the best judges " of cut blooms embraces an ex-
ceedingly wide sphere, so much so, that it would
be extremely difficult for even Mr. Tallack to
add another. When cut blooms are being judged
it matters not whether the plants upon which
they grew were 2 feet or 15 feet high. When
plants of Chrysanthemums, in groups by them-
selves, or amongst fine-foliaged plants, are being
judged, then the standards alter at once. There
" lumpiness," as Mr. Tallack points out, would
not carry the award with " the best judges."

When dealing with cut blooms only the con-
siderations kept in view are numerous, embracing
such points as size, depth, solidity, breadth of
floret, symmetry, freshness, colour, coarseness of
floret, contour, well-filled centres, consistency of
form with the variety, and lastly difficulty of
cultivation. This list is somewhat lengthy, and
if Mr. Tallack can say that much relating to the
flower is left out, I shall be much surprised. Mr.
Tallack appears to find fault with the great
depth possessed by some varieties, and appears
to think that because of this they lose elegance
and grace. I will name but three varieties, viz.,
Viviand Morel, its sport, Charles Davis, and the
newer Duchess of York. Could anything be more
beautiful than these ? Not only do they possess
immense depth of petal, but elegance as well.

Mr. Tallack appears to me to rely too much
upon catalogue descriptions. I have long since
found these much too misleading generally. He
talks of a vari ty there quoted as being 9 inches in
depth. I have never seen aChrysanthemum bloom
of the dimensions quoted. Mr. Tallack names
some plants possessing blooms that " had been
forced into great depth at the cost of loss of
character and beauty." This statement is hardly
consistent, as it is not possible to make a naturally
thin bloom into a deep one. E. Molyneux.

OUTDOOR BLOOMING CHRYSANTHE-
MUMS.
With such an improvement in varieties, outdoor
flowering Chrysanthemums are taking a much
higher placs where blooms for cutting during
September, October, and the early part of Novem-
ber are in request. This type of Chrysanthemum
consists of vaiietie3 with retiexed florets, the bulk
of them being small-flowered Japanese kinds.
Where the glass accommodation is limited, these
early flowering varieties come as a boon to those
who have to provide blooms in quantity. There
is likewise a clear distinction in the colour of the
blooms as giown out of doors compared with those
of the same variety tleveloped under glass.

Although Chrysanthemums are regarded as
being perfectly hardy plants, they are not so when
put to the test of a winter like the past. Some
hundreds of plants have succumbed this year to
the intense frost. Where the precaution was taken
to place a layer of ashes, manure, or leaf mould
about the stems of the plants before sharp weather
set in, the roois have fairly well withstood the
rigours of the winter. Where any doubt exists in
the mind of the cultivator that the roots will not
remain uninjured in the ground, it is much the
best way to lift them after flowering and store
them in a cold frame where they can be protected
from frost.

About the middle of March, if an increased
number of plants should be required, the roots
should be divided and planted in boxes in sandy
soil. Every single shoot with a root attached will
quickly develop into a stocky little plant if the
name be kept close for a time. The more robust
the plants are the greater is the prospect of
good crop of bloom. Plants growing at the foo I

of south walls will need renovation after such a
severe winter. No plants are so good for making
up gaps as the old roots or stools that flowered in
pots last season. One of the main reasons for this
is that so many more growths spring direct from
the base than is the case with spring-struck plants
of the current year. To furnish a wall thoroughly
a good foundation ought to be laid, the growth
starting elirect from the base. Half-a-dozen shoots
from one plant a yard from its neighbour should
make a nice display with the additional growths
that are the result of various natural breaks. A
fairly rich compost is an advantage. A mulching of
half-decayetl horse manure will do much to con-
serve moisture in the soil should the months of
May and June be hot and dry. Those who have
not adopted this form of cultivating Chrysan-
themums and beautifying what would otherwise
be bare spots, should lose no time in making a
start. Where possible to obtain roots of single-
flowered varieties I would aelvise that they be
planted, as no type is better suited to thi3 form
of outdoor growth than this. Not only do the
flowers possess all the points that go to make a
graceful combination of colour and form, but they
last a long time fresh. E. M.

Orchids.

CATTLEYA GUTTATA AND VARIETIES.
Cattleya guttata is a very free-growing species,
attaining a height of from 2 feet to about 30
inches, the elongated cylinelrical bulb being
furnished with a pair of coriaceous' leaves, each
about 8 inches or 9 inches long. This species
usually produces its flowers during the winter
and spring months, these being borne from five
to eight upon a short raceme. The individual
blooms measure nearly 4 inches in diameter,
the sepals and petals being similar. The flowers
in the typical form, which, however, is not
often met with at the present time, are of a
greenish yellow, spotted with crimson. The
side lobes are white on the outer surface,
and contrast well with the rich purple of the
middle lobe. This fine species was introduced
by the Royal Horticultural Society about
seventy years ago. It requires treatment
similar to that usually given the majority of
Cattleyas. One of the most beautiful varie-
ties is

Cattleya guttata Leopoldi, which has bronzy
green sepals and petals, with deep purplish spots ;
the lip is of a bright amethyst-purple, the whole
bloom individually smaller than in the typical
form. This, however, is made up by the greater
number of flowers borne upon the spike, for it
often carries a elozen or more upon one peeluncle.
This variety was introduced about forty-five yeais
ago by a Belgium nurseryman from Santa Cather-
ina. The collector stated that this distinct kind
grows naturally more inland, and nowhere near
the coast.

C. G. lilacina. — This is perfectly distinct from
the type, especially in the colour ; the sepals and
petals are pale rose spotted with deep purple,
whilst the lip is of a bright magenta crimson.
This charming addition first made its appearance
in the collection of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart.,
abcut fifteen or sixteen years ago. It usually
flowers somewhat later than other kinds. An-
other very beautiful and distinct variety is

C. c;. Prinzi. This is a very handsome flower ;
the sepals and petals creamy white, flushed with
bright rose and spotteel with crimson, whilst the
lip is of a deep and bright purple. I recently
noticed a tine form of this shown by Mr. Hill,
gardener to Lord Rothschild.

These are no doubt the most distinct, but
there are others which have received varietal
names. Wii. Huch Gower.

Bendrobiums from Cheltenham. — From
Mr. J. Cypher, the Exotic Nurseries, Cheltenham,

April 20, 1895.1

THE GARDEN.

265

comes a box of flowers containing a very choice
assortment of these beautiful and useful Orchids.
Amongst the most noteworthy were the fine D.
nobile Cooksoni in grand form, D. nobile Statteri-
anum, very beautifully coloured ; D. Wardianum
giganteum, flowers of enormous size, measuring
upwards of 5 inches across the petals, with bright
crimson purplish tips to each segment ; also a very
beautiful variety of D. Wardianum album of the
purest white, excepting the pale yellow blotch on
the lip. A magnificent form of D. Leechianum
was also sent, the blooms being of large size and
very richly coloured in the throat. — W.

Cypripedium Harrisianum nigrum. — A
very fine form of this varietv is now in bloom at
the Koupell Park Nurseries, Tulse Hill, the flower
being identical with that of the typical form, but
of a very deep shade of colour. C. Harrisianum
is remarkable as being the first hybrid raised in
our gardens. It is the result of crossing C. villo-
sum and C. barbatum, and although it was the
first one raised, it still takes a foremost place in
nearly every collection. — Gr.

Cypripedium caudatum ( Wm. Cooper). —
This species was introduced about fifty years ago
from Peru, where it grows at over 5000 feet ele-
vation. It should be placed with other warm
house kinds and given similar treatment. It is a
very interesting plant and always attracts atten-
tion whenever seen in flower. — W. H. G.

Angrsecum fastuosum. — This is a very re-
markable and distinct little species and one that
is seldom seen in bloom. It was introduced about
sixteen years ago by Messrs. Sander and Co., of
St. Albans, and was also recently exhibited at the
Drill Hall by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea.
It is a plant of very dwarf growth, producing
stems from 1 inch to 2 inches in height. The
flowers push up from amongst the leaves in pro-
fusion and individually measure about lj inches
in diameter. These are of the purest white and
the long white spur measures 3 inches. It is one
of the most distinct species in this genus. — W.

Maedevallia leontoglossa. — This very
curious and beautiful species recently flowered
well in the collection of Sir Trevor Lawrence,
Bart. It was introduced by Messrs. Linden, of
Brussels, upwards of thirty years ago, but it is
still a scarce plant. The flowers are produced on
very short peduncles. The perianth tube is pale
yellow, spotted above in regular rows and also
beneath with deep purple, the sepals having short
broad tails about 1 inch in length. These are of
a yellowish green ground colour, spotted with
very dark purple warts. The small lip is covered
with papillae and is of a rich purple colour. —
W. H. G.

Trichopiliasuavissuperba. — A well-flowered
specimen of this old favourite was exhibited at
the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural So-
ciety by Messrs. Lewis and Co., of Southgate, the
individual blooms being of fine size and nicely
spotted with bright rose. It is now upwards of
fifty years since the typical form first made its
appearance, and it certainly deserves attention
from all lovers of Orchids. It is especially adapted
for amateurs with small collections, as it is a
plant of very easy culture, free flowering, and
possessing a very pleasing powerful fragrance.
Trichopilia suavis is a native of Costa Rica, where
it grows at an altitude of from 6000 feet to 8000
feet. It was first discovered about the year 1848.
Trichopilias like a good season of rest, and should
be potted in fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss
with good drainage, care being taken when re-
potting that the bulbs are not inserted in the
compost, but placed upon an elevated mound
above the rim of the pot. The variety here re-
ferred to is of exceptional merit, the flowers much
larger than in the typical form and very brightly
coloured.— U.

Eulophiella Elizabeth®. — This remarkable
Orchid, which is still a novelty, was represented
in the collections of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart.,
asd Messrs. Sander and Co., of St. Albans, at the
recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural So-

ciety. This plant is sure to become a great
favourite amongst Orchid lovers who have suffi-
cient heat at command to grow it, for heat and
moisture are its natural requirements. The
flowers, pure white on the inner side, deeply col-
oured on the outer surface, are borne on pedicels
and stems of deep purple, thus forming a curious
contrast. — W. H. G.

Lselia Eatona.— This charming hybrid was
shown at the Drill Hall on the 9thinst. by Messrs.
Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea. It is stated to be a
cross between L. purpurata and L. cinnabarina and
produces flowers of an orange-yellow colour, the
sepals and petals somewhat narrow and of a uni-
form shade. The lip is long, undulated at the
margin and of a similar ground colour, shaded on
the disc, and veined with bright carmine. It is
certainly a fine acquisition to this section. — H.

Dendrobium Kolfse roseum.— Under this
name was shown at the Royal Horticultural
Society's last meeting a very pretty Dendrobium
of the nobile section, and which was stated to bo
a natural hybrid. Whether this is a natural
hybrid or not, Dendrobium nobile predominates,
and one would be inclined to believe that this is
another of the numerous sports of this variable
species. Upon a recent visit to Messrs. Laing
and Sons' nurseries at Forest Hill I was shown a
very distinct form of Dendrobium nobile, which
is evidently the same variety as that shown at
the Drill Hall.— G.

Cymbidium Lowianum viride. — A nice
plant of this distinct variety was staged by Mr.
Smee, of Carshalton, under this name, and
although it is now usually applied to this yellow
form of Lowianum, the proper name should be
C. Lowianum Mandaianum, it having been first
exhibited by Messrs. Pitcher and Manda and
described under that name in the horticultural
press. The plant referred to carried a nice spike
of eighteen blooms, which were of fine size, with
clear yellow sepals and petals, the lip, as in the
typical form, white, but with a very bright yellow
blotch in place of the rich maroon colour. In
habit of growth and all other particulars it is
identical with the ordinary C. Lowianum and
makes a very charming companion to that species.
— W.

ORCHIDS ON BLOCKS.
Ok the smaller growing and weakly-rooted species
of Orchids there are many that— other conditions
being suitable— are better on blocks than in any
description of compost. A few also that are
usually found difficult to establish may be in-
duced to root upon a piece of teak or other lasting
wood, thus giving the plants a start that cannot
easily be obtained in any other way. Some may
be inclined to argue that as Orchids in the majority
of instances grow naturally upon the branches or
trunks of trees, therefore blocking is the most
suitable, because the most natural, mode of treat-
ment for them. All practical growers, however,
will be quick to note the fallacy of this reasoning.
Even if we could produce an atmosphere similar to
that of the natural habitat of the plants— which,
unfortunately, we cannot— the task of watering
would be herculean if all the epiphytal section
were grown in this way. It is also well known that
many Orchids under cultivation produce finer
growths and larger flower-spikes than when grow-
ing naturally, owing to the moisture-holding and
manurial properties of the compost provided.
Opinions vary considerably as to the merits of
various kinds of wood for Orchid blocks, some
choosing teak, others Birch, Oak, Apple, or
charred deal. Although to a certain extent a
matter of fancy, the teak is probably the best,
as it is so long-lasting. Oak newly sawn is
certainly unsuitable, although if cut and
properly seasoned it serves the purpose well.
Cork is freely used for Orchids, and though de-
nounced in some quarters as harbouring insects
and fungus, this material will, I believe, be even
more used in future than it is at present. I have,
personally, had good results by using this material

for many dwarf-growing Oncidiums, particularly
O. Papilio, giving a little Sphagnum Moss and
keeping this growing about the plants in summer.
Ltelia acuminata, too, I have recently seen in
first-rate order under similar conditions. The
great drawback to the general use of blocks is
the difficulty that is experienced in transferring
the plants to a new piece when the old one decays.
It is impossible to do so without checking the
plants more or less seriously, so that the advan-
tage of using blocks that last well is obvious. In
all cases where practicable it is best to insert the
block into a basket or pot as soon as it shows
signs of decay, jacking out the decayed portions
of wood when subsequently repotting ; or if a
small flat block, it may be cut away all round
where there are no roots and the remainder nailed
entire to a larger piece, removing the old wood
piecemeal as the roots take to the new and secur-
ing the plants in position by degrees. D.
Devonianum when newly imported is an awk-
ward plant to pot, as the long, pendulous
stems are not easily supported without burying
the eyes at the base, which would be fatal
to the plant's well - being. This and similar
Orchids may be easily and readily established
if wired firmly to suitably sized blocks, the latter
being inserted in pots, filling up these with pot-
sherds, charcoal and a little Sphagnum. This
will conduce to free root-formation, and the fol-
lowing season the plants may be potted in the
ordinary ^way, or if the roots have taken firm
hold of 'the block, place this in the pot again and
treat as described above. The practice which
obtains in some gardens of wiring lumps of
peat to huge blocks and placing thereon such
plants as Coelogyne criBtata cannot be too
strongly condemned. The continual watering
swills out the peat, the plants are gradually
loosened from the blocks, and are always untidy.
Wherever wood is used the base of the pseudo-
bulbs or rhizomes must be brought into direct
contact with the block, and so firmly fixed that
it cannot be moved either way. A little Sphag-
num under will do no harm ; in fact, it is often
necessary, but beyond this nothing is needed, and
any plants requiring peat are much better accom-
modated in o^her receptacles. In fixing the plants
a few thin strips of cork will be found of great
assistance, as the wire used must be fine enough
to be very pliable, and if tightly drawn, as it must
be it would cut through the rhizomes or pseudo-
bulbs without this protection. Copper wire and
tacks or nails should always be used, as in the
moist heat of an Orchid house iron soon rusts,
galvanised iron being also unsuitable. H. R.

Odontoglossum laeve superbum. — This

fragrant and small-tlowered Odontoglossum is
not much in favour with Orchid growers, its more
gorgeous relations being more cared for. A very
nice plant carrying a fine spike of many blooms
is now flowering with Messrs. Lewis and Co., of
Southgate. The sepals and petals are yellow
barred and tipped with cinnamon-brown, whilst
the lip is of a deep rosy lilac. This plant will
often carry three dozen or more tlowers upon a
spike. I am in receipt of a bloom from C. King-
ston under the name of O. Reichenheimianum,
but this I believe to be synonymous with the
above. — W. G.

Leelia flava and var. aurantiaca.-A spike
of this pretty little Lalia comes from Chas. Box
for a name, who asks for further mformation
respecting its introduction, &c. Ihe flowers to
hand are of the typical form (Laeha flava), and a
nice spike it is with eight hne blooms; these are
of a uniform orange-yellow colour. It is a native
of Brazil, where it grows at a considerable eleva-
tion, and consequently requires cool treatment
under cultivation. It is recorded as having first
flowered in this country in 1839. The variety
aurantiaca I noticed at the last show of the Rojal
Horticultural Society, where it was exhibited by
Mr Hill, gardener to Lord Rothschild, of Tring
Park In this the flowers were similar to those ot
the type, of good size and of quite a reddish hue.
_W. H. G.

2G6

THE GARDEN

[Apbit, 20, 1895.

Ferns.

HARDY FERNS.

In most gardens, large and small, there are
places which cannot well be embellished by
using flowering plants. Where most things fail,
the more vigorous-habited, hardy Ferns will
And a happy home. In dark corners or in the
shade of trees they will thrive admirably, and
once fairly established they will give no further
trouble. It is a curious fact that many who
do not grudge the labour and expense necessary
for the culture of Ferns that demand the shelter
of glass make little or no attempt to beautify
their garden with our native kinds, which are
not inferior to their exotic relatives in beauty
of form and nobility of growth. I have a
couple of specimens of the common male Fern
which some ten years back were small plants
with half-a-dozen fronds. At the present time
they carry in the season a hundred or more
fronds, which attain a height of 4 feet or more.
Few exotic Ferns could produce a finer effect,
and the majority of them cannot even with the
best culture equal this common British species
when seen in its best condition. Any fairly
good garden soil will suit them, but, of course,
they will attain finer proportions in a good
compost of loam and leaf-mould. It is quite a
mistake to suppose that rockwork or an ele-
vated position of any kind is necessary for
the well-being of hardy Ferns generally. Some
kinds of lowly growth, such as Asplenium viride,
Ceterach officinarum, and the Holly and Parsley
Ferns, must have good drainage, but the robust
habited varieties do not need this accommodation,
and in a general way do best when the roots are
not raised much above the ordinary ground
level. Planting them on rockwork, rootwork,
or mounds deprives them of the moisture they
so much need in the growing season. One of
the very finest Ferns is the Royal Fern (Osmunda
regalis). Nothing can exceed the beauty of
this native species when it is in the enjoyment
of the conditions that favour its growth. It is
a grave error to place this, as is often done, in
an elevated position, for it is in its native
habitats invariably found where the roots get a
liberal supply of moisture even when at rest. In
damp woods, swampy places, or by the side of
streams or pools of water this Fern attains such
noble proportions as to render it one of the
finest of the many things in cultivation that are
valued for the beauty of their foliage and
elegance of growth. The dampest place in the
garden should be chosen for this Fern, and if
the ground is well prepared and ample space
allowed for development, the plants will in due
time throw up fronds G feet or more in height.
The exotic species of Royal Ferns are equally
hardy and as worthy of being well cared for.
They also delight in moisture, but are apparently
longer in coming to their full size. I have
several specimens that were planted about
twenty years ago, and they are very effective in
the summer and autumn months. A plant of
interrupta was placed on a rootwork at the
back of a building which has no guttering, so
that it gets, especially in a rainy season, a large
amount of moisture. This it evidently enjoys,
and I have never seen a finer specimen of this
Fern. At the foot of the rootwork is a
specimen of Cypripedium spectabile which
flourishes exceedingly, and which after heavy
rains stands for hours in a pool of watery
The Lady Fern and its red-stemmed variety
are certainly much more worthy of a place in
gardens than many of the varieties to which
they have given birth, and which are more

curious than beautiful. The same may be said
of the Hart's-tongue, the type, to my mind,
being infinitely much more ornamental than
the majority of its varieties, in many of which
the free, vigorous growth natural to this Fern is
in a great measure suppressed. There is a rich-
ness of verdure in the Hart's-tongue that is
particularly attractive, and which few Ferns,
hardy or tender, possess in such a high degree.
The Hart's-tongue will grow freely in almost
any kind of soil, but to see it at its best it
should be planted in well-enriched ground.
The best specimens I ever had were fed into a
high state of luxuriance by a liberal dressing of
rotten manure. The fronds were abnormally
large and exceptionally rich in colour. There
are several varieties of this Fern that are fairly
vigorous and not difficult to please. The best
are probably crispum and angustifolium, but,
to my mind, even at their best they are not
equal to the typical form, which exhibits
greater elegance of growth than any of its
numerous varieties can lay claim to. Among
the Polystichums there are some that may be
freely used in the manner above indicated.
P. aculeatum is a noble Fern when fully de-
veloped, and the crested form of the male Fern
is but little less vigorous and enduring than the
common form. In both large and small gardens
there can be found room for some of these
common, but noble-habited Ferns, which merely
require to be well planted and left alone,
and require little or no attention for years
together. In the wild garden, by the side of
water, and under the shade of trees these native
Ferns should be freely used. They give variety
and add a charm to any garden, large or small.

J. C. B.

GARDEN ENEMIES.

The exceptional weather experienced in February,
which was responsible for a late season, and con-
sequently one would hope for a more favourable
flowering time for our fruit trees, has also had the
effect of checking the early appearance of some of
the enemies with which we have to contend. They
are, however, I fear, not likely to be less numerous
on that account ; indeed, the few warm days have
already brought red spider to the fore, and it is
strongly in evidence on the Gooseberry buds. The
fact that the many different species of bird and
insect that go to make up the great army of garden
enemies affect special localities is, perhaps, not
sufficiently recognised. An accurate knowledge of
this is necessary that the gardener should bo on
the alert to anticipate and, if possible, avert the
attack. I notice a correspondent calls attention on
page 176 to the wholesale destruction of buds by
bullfinches, and reports to hand from friends tell
the same tale. A clean sweep has been made
of unprotected Plums, Gooseberries, and Currants.
The partiality of the bullfinch for particular
localities is apparent when I say that we have not
lost a single bud or seen any of the birds all
through the season. The damage effected in some
localities by these birds has led to the covering up
of the bush fruit quarters with close mesh gal-
vanised netting. Would it not be advisable to go
in fordwarfer Plums, bush trees that is, and plant
them also under cover ? This covering is, as a
rule, a fixture both at the sides and top. I
am inclined, however, to think it would be as
well to leave the latter open and cover at certain
times of the year with short half-inch mesh fish
netting. This could easily be effected by placing
a few more posts of the same height as the sides
at intervals through the length of the quarter.
This netting could be removed after the ripening
of the fruit until danger to the buds was anticf-
pated. If we can claim immunity from bull-
finches, it is not so in the case of Acarus telarius,
commonly known as red spider, the second
enemy to make its appearance. It is, I think,

always troublesome in light, sandy soils (as may
be evinced somewhat later in the year by the
skeletonised foliage on the Quick hedges), and
where this is so a sharp look out must be kept for
its first appearance. March 15 was the first
day it was noticed this year, an inspection of the
trellis Gooseberries after an hour or two of bright
sunshine showing countless thousands of the mite
on the tips* of the buds. Prompt remedial
measures were at once resorted to in the shape of
a rather strong dose of an insecticide that was ap-
plied with as much force as possible from the
nozzle of a syringe, the aim being to give a fine
spray to ensure a thorough wetting, and yet use
considerable force. It may be noted that when
an insecticide is applied at this season before the
bursting of the buds, it can be used of greater
strength. Make, for instance, two gallons of
liquid where three or even four would be neces-
sary in the summer. In the week ending March 23
the whole of the Peach and Nectarine, Plum and
dessert Cherry walls were treated to a similar
dose, a little sulphur in this case being incorpo-
rated with the liquid. Where walls are old and
crevices and nail holes are in evidence it is advis-
able to apply the mixture with sufficient force
that it may find its way into these holes ; also
every inch of wall and portions of trees should be
thoroughly wetted to make sure of the destruc-
tion of the enemy. Another garden enemy that is
a source of great trouble to many fruit growers is
the earwig, and it is unfortunately an enemy
which is very difficult to dislodge. Last year,
although the Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot trees
were dotted all over with Bean and Artichoke
stalks long before the fruit showed any sign of
ripening, and scores of the insects were blown out
each morning, the preventive measures seemed in
no way to lessen their numbers, and individual
fruits were tapped ere they would give to the
pressure of the thumb. I intend to be still earlier
in the field this year, and set the traps so
soon as any punctures are noticed in the leaves.
An idea used to prevail that the numerical
strength of the earwigs could be considerably re-
duced, and the mischief caused by them, so far as
wall fruit is concerned, proportionately lessened
by clearing away old soil at the foot of the wall
to the depth of some 3 inches or 4 inches and
substituting fresh, also plastering a breadth of
the lower portion of the wall with tar, but as the
earwig at an early period of its life is provided with
wings, it is probable that any such measures would
be of little avail. If any correspondent can sug-
gest a remedy of a drastic nature other than the
bean trap above mentioned, he would be conferring
a boon on those gardeners who are annually
troubled with this very troublesome pest. We
were nothing like so much troubled with wasps in
1894 as in the preceding summer, the wet season
being no doubt answerable for the diminution of
their numbers. A comparative scarcity in the
preceding summer does not, however, necessarily
mean a scarcity of queens, and with the advent
of bright weather a sharp look out must be kept
for them, any small sum paid for their bodies
being money well spent, especially in those
districts that may as a rule be regarded as
happy hunting grounds for the wasp. In
answer to a query as to the relative capability
of outdoor sown versus transplanted Onions to
resist the attack of the Onion fly, I notice on
page 185 a correspondent declares emphatically
for transplanted stuff. Doubtless he has good
reason for so doing, but can he explain the reason?
Is it that the stronger plants are less succulent,
that the outer skin, which we know is pierced by
the fly, is tougher in the older, larger, stronger
plant, and is therefore comparatively safe from
attack ? In all gardens where the old-fashioned
plan of outdoor seed-sowing is still followed, it is
advisable to have a supply of fresh soot always on
hand, and to give slight dustings of the same two
or three times a week until the plants are fairly
well advanced. Such dustings are at once a check
to the settling of the fly on the grass and a help
to the quick growth of the bulb oi the Onion.

Claremont. E. Burrell.

April 20, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

267

RUSHTON.
We had never heard much of Northamptonshire
for its old houses till we happened to go there,
and were surprised to see some of the most
beautiful houses in England, simple in archi-
tecture, dignified in form and charming in
colour. Among these stately and beautiful
houses was Rushton. The vegetation both of
woods and pleasure gardens near helps much.
The walls, beautified by time and Lichens, look
as perfect as anything can be, more so than the
much -talked-of French chateaux, which are very
hard in effect.

The absence of flower gardening, except of
the ordinary kind which leaves the beds bare in
winter, prevents such beautiful effects as we
might easily have about such old houses by the
use of Roses, flowering climbers, and charming

extremities with a handsome Lichen-covered
Doric screen. The ground falls gently down
to the stream, and there the effects are very
picturesque with the rich water-side vegeta-
tion and a pretty old bridge. The place is
fortunate in having a fine kitchen and fruit
garden, the crops in both departments under
Mr. Cruickshank's care being excellent. There
are also pretty borders of perennials here, which
often come in so well in kitchen gardens suit-
able for them.

Flower Garden.

ON THE SEEDING OF DAFFODILS.
December 10. — This is the first season that I
have attempted to secure a harvest of Daffodil

the truth, I do not very confidently count on
ever seeing Daffodil blooms from these seeds.
Still I do not grudge the labour of hybridising,
considerable as that labour has been. Every
flower hybridised was duly labelled with the
names of both parents, and this in itself was no
small trouble. But it was interesting work,
and I do not begrudge the pains I took even if
I never see a flower from my seeds. Familiar
as I was before with the more salient points in
the various species and varieties, the attempt to
cross varieties brought out characteristics that
would have been otherwise unknown to me.
For instance, I have in former notes remarked
on the difficulty of distinguishing Empress from
a well-grown Hopsfieldi. I believe that I have
now discovered this point of difference at least
between them — that Horstieldi if impregnated

Rushton. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph by the late Mr. J. L. Robinson, C.E., Dublin.

evergreen things which are essential in the per-
manent kind of flower gardening. In very few
of these lovely houses are the opportunities
they offer for true flower gardening in simple
and delightful ways taken advantage of.

Rushton, built mainly of local Weldon
stone, is charmingly situated upon a gentle
eminence which rises from the Ise, a small
stream watering the park. It was commenced
during the second half of the fifteenth century
by Sir John Tresham, further enlarged by
Sir Thomas Tresham, who died in 1005,
and finished by the Cockaynes about 1030.
The work of the time of Elizabeth and James
dominates the design, and the simple masterly
treatment makes the house one of the stateliest
in the country. It is built round three sides of
a quadrangle, the centre facing east and west,
the north and south wings running from the
main building easterly, connected at their

seed. In former years I have plucked stray
pods and burst them open to see the beautiful
jet-black and shining grains. But the pods
were certainly not plentiful on any variety
with the exception of the common Jonquil,
which bears self-fertilised seed abundantly, and
sows itself with very satisfactory results if only
the nidus for the seed be at all suitable. Of
course there is no object in sowing such self-
fertilised seed. New varieties are not likely to
be produced from it ; an increase by means of
offsets is rapid enough to make the tedious pro-
cess of raising bulbs from seed unnecessary.
This year, however, I have diligently cross-
fertilised, with the result that I have harvested
a large collection of seeds of various sorts. I
suppose I shall sow them if I can find time, but
as to their ever giving me flowering bulbs, that
is quite another question. Five to seven years
is a long time to have in prospect, and, to tell

with good pollen will bear seed-pods enclosing
sound, plump seed ; whereas Empress is mostly,
if not absolutely sterile. At least, of the many
blooms of Empress that I treated in various parts-
of the garden and in various exposures, not
one pod came to anything, whilst flowers of
Horstieldi when cross-fertilised bore seed in
, very respectable quantity. The palm for seed-
bearing must be given, I think, to princeps. It
was delightful to me to gather the fat capsules
of this Daffodil, fertilised with all sorts of
pollen, and squeeze out the beautiful black seed
in showers. One capsule of this variety held no
' fewer than 52 grains, the pollen used in this
j case being that of spurius. And not only is
princeps a good seed-bearer, but as far I can
judge its pollen is very effective, though, as re-
gards powerful and abundant pollen, maximus
appears to me to come in first. My flowers of
this variety, unfortunately, were few in number,

268

THE GARDEN.

[ArRiL 20, 1895.

but so abundant is the pollen that one flower
goes a long way. Of numerous flowers of Em-
peror and of Morning Star— a Daffodil very like
princeps — fertilised with niaxiuius, 1 do not
think that one failed to set for seed. The pollen
also of triandrus seemed to me to be of excellent
quality, though here again my flowers were too
few in number to enable me to generalise. I
cross-fertilised a very considerable number of
moschatus with various kinds of pollen of
N. minor, Jonquil, Polyanthus gloriosus, and
others, but the results were disappointing.
The capsules seemed to grow and swell with
marvellous vitality, and 1 looked for a rare lot
of seed, but those that perfected seed were not
many and the seeds in each capsule that did
ripen were few in number. Emperor is a fine
seed-bearer, nearly as good as princeps, though
each capsule does not contain so many seeds as
in the case of princeps. Pallidus prajcox var.
asturicus also seems to be very fertile, though
I should think that the pollen of the delicate
sulphur trumpet Daffodils is, generally speaking,
weak.

Of course it does not follow, because you im-
pregnate one Daffodil with the pollen of another,
that you have thereby secured a hybrid even
when the seed sets ; the seeds produced may
after all be the result of f elf-fertilisation — that
is, unless one grows the Daffodils in pots and
removes the anthers before the pollen has be-
come loose, a laborious piece of work which
only those could undertake who could give to
it unlimited time. But when I compare the
small amount of seed produced in former years
by the Daffodils in my garden with the abundant
return from several varieties this year, I con-
clude that the cross-fertilisation which I so in-
dustriously carried out has been pretty effec-
tual.

The earliest seed to ripen was that of obval-
laris, the latest that of Emperor. I have har-
vested a large amount of seed, but I believe
I must have lost more than I gathered. In the
first place a storm of snow and wind battered
down many stalks that were plumping for seed
in quite a promising way. As for staking each
head, the labour involved would be too great.
A good plan is to tie several neighbouring heads
in one bundle, when they will supjiort each
other. But besides the amount of seed lost
from the battering down of stalks, a good many
ripe pods scattered their grains before they
could be gathered, and 1 found that when this
happened I could seldom discover the spilt
seed on the ground : it had probably been eaten
by birds. To prevent loss of seed in this way
the best plan is to gather the pods before they
are dead ripe.

The following is a list of the combinations
from which I obtained seed in greater or less
quantity. The first named is, of course, the
seed-bearer : —

Pallidus praecox x triandrus (one seed).

Pallidus praecox asturicus x N. minor.

Pallidus pra-cox asturicus x Polyanthus N.
gloriosus.

Pallidus precox asturicus x Jonquil.

Princeps X Corbularia citrinus.

Princeps x pallidus pra-cox.

Princeps X spurius (one pod of this cross con-
tained fifty-two seeds).

Princeps x N. minor.

Princeps x moschatus.

Princeps x Leedsi amabilis.

Princeps X Emperor.

Spurius X moschatus.

I am sorry that I have not noted all those
combinations which failed to. set seed. Spurius
appears to be a poor seed-bearer, but whether
mine failed from an inherent tendency to ster-
ility or because the flower-stalks were a good
deal dashed by the wind, I cannot decide. Ob-
vallaris, on the other hand, seems as if it might
become the parent of varieties. Maximus is a
splendid variety for pollen, but whether this
variety readily sets seed I caunot say, my stock
being too small to allow of my making experi-
ments to any extent. Want of the necessary
leisure prevented me from dealing with any of
the poeticus section as seed-bearers. I have
marked the variety maximus major with a
query, because I do not think there can be any
Daffodil with such an atrocious name, but that
so named with me is a handsome Daffodil,
much resembling maximus in habit of flower
and foliage, but bicolor in colour.

Duncdin, N.Z. A. Wilson.

Albicans
Emperor
Emperor
Emperor

Emperor.

cernuus.

maximus major (?).

poeticus ornatus.
Emperor x maximus (very prolific).
Emperor x princeps.
Emperor x moschatus.
Horsfieldi x poeticus ornatus.
Horsfieldi x triandrus.
Maximus major (?) x Empress.
Maximus major (?) x ornatus.
Bicolor Morning Star x maximus.
Moschatus x obvallaris.
Moschatus x Jonquil.
Moschatus x Corbularia citrinus.
Moschatus x poeticus ornatus.
Obvallaris x moschatus.
Obvallaris x Polyanthus N. gloriosus.
Obvallaris x N. minor.

Gaillardias. — Although I have grown these
for some years, this is the first winter that I have
known them to be affected by frost. With me
they have hitherto retained a small amount of
leafage through the winter months, but the old
stools after the protracted hard frost looked as if
they were quite dead. These Gaillardias are very
peculiar, for although in my case the crowns and
the thick roots are killed and rotten, I find that
lower down the roots are already pushing out new
growths, so that the existence of the plants is
practically ensured. I have not tried, but I
believe that the smallest bit of root would, if
cared for, form a plant. A year or two ago I
transplanted some old roots and the ground re-
mained undisturbed. To my surprise, quite late
in the summer a crowd of small Gaillardias came
up. In taking up the plants I had broken off
some of the smaller roots and these became plants.
If we were to experience such winters as the past
one it would be necessary to protect slightly, as
when the plants are so injured the flowering time
is much delayed. — J. C. 6.

Senecio Doronicum. — Among the earlier
flowering of the composites this Senecio is one of
the most showy. In height it is scarcely more
than li feet when fully grown. In appearance it
is neat and compact, and when its orange golden
blossoms are fully expanded, it is very attractive.
It is by no means so frequently seen as it should be,
for at its time of flowering we have not much of
its shade of colour in the herbaceous border. The
plant gives little trouble to the cultivator and
requires no staking or tying when in bloom, it
being, in fact, quite self-supporting. Being
among the number which flower early in the year,
it is better transplanted in early autumn, so as
not to imperil its flowering. It may be increased
by careful division in autumn, or, if quantity be
required, by root cuttings in winter in the usual
way. — E. J.

Marguerite Carnations. — I sow the seed of
these early in February and find that better re-
sults follow than from sowing later. I find the
plants succeed much better in pots than in the
open, especially if required for flowering in the
late autumn and through the winter months. I
have to-day (April 6) gathered a nice lot of blooms

from plants raised in February, 1894, and which
have given a lot of bloom all through the winter
in an ordinary greenhouse. These Marguerite
Carnations are valuable in September after the
ordinary Carnations are over. — E. M.

Volet Queen Victoria. — Those who admire
double Violets should give this a trial. It is re-
markably rich in colour, and for winter and early
spring flowering affords a fine contrast to the
Neapolitan. Marie Louise and Comte de Brazza.
It would, I think, be difficult to find four Violets
better fitted for culture under glass than the above.
Queen Victoria has rich green foliage, flowers with
as much freedom as the Neapolitan, and I fancy
would succeed where the latter cannot be induced
to grow with sufficient vigour to allow of the
plants producing a good crop of flowers. The
great enemy of all the double Violets is red spider.
In some gardens where the soil is light it is almost
impossible to keep the plants free from this
terrible pest. In spite of rich soil, frequent water-
ings and sprinklings, there comes a time when
the enemy gains a foothold and the growth of the
plants is at once affected. The only remedy, or
rather preventive, that I have found efficacious is
shading from very hot sun either with canvas or
with Birch sprays laid over the beds. — J. C. B.

THE ROCK GARDEN.

IV.

March 28. — Spring at last. Though many
pretty flowers bloomed in the rock garden as
early as January, their beauty was of short
duration, and King Frost held his undisputed
reign for many weeks. But after weary wait-
ing, genial sunshine has at last awakened the
alpines from their winter sleep, and one by one
the gay spring flowers unfold their charming
blossoms, which are all the better appreciated
for their somewhat late arrival.

Among Saxifrages now in bloom there is per-
haps more variety of colour than at any other
season. The host of white flowers among the
mossy kinds has not yet made its appearance,
but there are much choicer gems among the
section which flowers earliest of all, and in
every well-designed rock garden these should
be combined into large groups for early spring
effect. The best way of arranging them would
undoubtedly be to combine the different colours
into groups of varying sizes, so that the colour
of each group would blend harmoniously, and
here and there be intermingled with the ad-
joining group. An important point, of course,
would be the tout ensemble, or connecting the
various groups into one grand and effective
picture.

Let me suggest the material for this picture
of early Saxifrages. The following varieties are
all now in full bloom (here in Devonshire), and
may be said to be very fit companions for each
other : Saxifraga Burseriana, S. apicularis, S.
oppositifolia, S. o. alba, S. o. pyrenaica su-
perba, S. sancta.

As all of these make exceedingly neat and
compact tufts of evergreen growth, they are also
well adapted for forming a carpet on which a
few later-flowering things may be displayed to
advantage. Saxifraga Burseriana does certainly
best planted into a slightly sloping crevice which
has been filled with gritty calcareous soil and is
fully exposed to the sun. In such a position it
is flowering most abundantly at the time of
writing, not only here in Exeter, but also at
Torquay, Newton Abbot; and other places.
There is something exquisitely neat about S.
Burseriana which makes it a picture in itself,
and one of the first-class gems for the rock gar-
den. The glaucous cushion of densely-crowded
prickly foliage is ornamental even without the

April 20, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

269

blossoms, but when the flowers appear with their
red stem and calyx, the large pure white corolla,
and golden yellow anthers, the picture is alto-
gether unique. Saxifraga apicularis forms a
carpet of the brightest green on which the
flowers of a primrose-yellow are most abundantly
produced. I find it doing best on ground not
quite so slanting as that recommended for S.
Burseriana. At Exeter it is growing in gritty
loam.

The well-known S. oppositifolia, with its
charming rosy purple flowers, forms a delightful
contrast to the primrose colour of S. apicularis.
In many rock gardens S. oppositifolia does not
thrive well, but in nine cases out of ten the
fault is in the planting. It should invariably
be planted on the shady side of a rock without
being overshadowed, and I know several in-

(though during less severe winters their flower-
ing season would be much earlier) very few
can equal the well-known Chionodoxa Lucilire,
Chionodoxa sardensis, Scilla sibirica, and Scilla
sibirica alba. The bright blue varieties almost
equal the colour of the Gentian, and are very
fit neighbours for the Saxifrages just men-
tioned, which contain no such colour. A most
natural and effective way of displaying these
bulbs to their best advantage is to scatter them
irregularly over patches of soil that have been
covered with neat-growing carpeting plants,
such as Antennaria tomentosa, Sedum dasy-
phyllum, Sedum pruinatum and similar kinds.
The rich colours of the bulbous flowers show
up all the brighter for the duller tints carpeting
the ground beneath them.

Several Cyclamens are still in bloom this

Flowers of Doronicum Harpur-Crewe in a vase. From a photograph sent by
Mrs. Wakeman-Newport, Sandbourne, Bewdley.

stances where plants that refused to thrive made
excellent progress directly they were transferred
to the north side of the rock garden. The white
variety (S. oppositifolia alba) seems still rather
rare, but the improved species, S. pyrenaica
superba, with its large and handsome flowers,
is deservedly popular and is just now at its
best. Saxifraga sancta is not grown nearly so
much as it deserves to be. It forms a delight-
ful contrast to the last-named kind, the colour
of its blossoms being a very deep rich golden
yellow. It slightly resembles S. apicularis, but
both its foliage and its flowers are darker than in
that variety. At Exeter it covers a stony ledge
fully exposed, and is flowering at present most
abundantly. I have seen other plants of this
species do equally well in a half-shady posi-
tion, but the flowers would appear later. Of
effective bulbous plants flowering this week

week, and so are also many kinds of Hepaticas
and that charming dark blue Anemone A. blan-
da. As all these prefer a shady or half-shady
position, they might well be grouped together.
Hepaticas and Cyclamens often will grow in the
shade of trees where other plants refuse to
thrive, and their colours vary so much, that
quite a picture might be formed of Hepaticas
alone. There are this week no less than eight
distinct varieties blooming together in Exeter :
pure white, single and double reds, and single
and double blue in various shades, the variety
Hepatica Barlowi, with its deep blue flowers,
being particularly striking.

Among rock garden plants now flowering in
a sunny position I may mention Draba Aizoon,
with its bright yellow flowers ; Megasea
Stracheyi, with its charming white flowers
tinged with the slightest touch of delicate pink ;

and Dondia Epipactis, with its curious umbel of
golden yellow flowers resting on a compara-
tively large involucre of broad green bracts,
presenting a very pretty effect.

Exeter. F. W. Meyer.

(To be continued.)

DORONICUM PLANTAGINEUM
HARPUR-CREWE.

The illustration here given shows the best of a
handsome family of hardy spring-flowering
plants. There are several fine Doronicums
growing in gardens, but there are more names
than distinct varieties, which leads to some
confusion. It is important to know and grow
the best of them. The varieties found in
gardens can mostly be referred to two species,
namely, D. pardalianches, which is distin-
guished by its rounded woolly leaves and tall
flower-stems, 3 feet to 4 feet in height, and
D. plantagineum, with larger flowers on shorter
stems and more ovate leaves, resembling those
of the Plantain. The variety named Harpur-
Crewe originated in the garden of the gentle-
man whose name it bears, and its great merit
is that of continuous blooming. From early
spring to late autumn it will maintain an
abundant succession of its fine flowers if rightly
treated. In common with all the Doronicums,
it is easily increased by division, which should
take place frequently at different times, so as to
secure strong batches of young plants succeed-
ing each other in flowering. Besides the bril-
liant effect it gives in beds and borders, men-
tion must be made of its merits as a cut flower,
for which it is useful and lasting. Those who
have reserve gardens to supply flowers for the
house will find this plant of great service.

A. H.

SCHIZOSTYLIS COCCINEA.
For the cool greenhouse or conservatory in the
early months of autumn this beautiful Crimson
Flag — or Katfir Lily, as it is sometimes called — is
among the most useful. Few plants can equal it
for brilliant colouring at the time stated when seen
in good condition. In a few gardens here and
there may be seen a small batch of it in fair con-
dition, with perhaps half-a-dozen or so spikes
issuing from an 8-inch pot, and these by no means
of the best quality. That so beautiful and useful
an autumn-flowering plant should be so generally
neglected is a matter for regret. The usual way
of treating this plant is to transplant it in clumps,
hence the reason of so much useless growth and so
very little bloom. Often in one large pot may be
found sufficient material for a dozen, supposing it
to have been well grown, instead of the indifferent
treatment usually accorded it. Just at this season
of the year the plant is commencing fresh growth
and it is a good time to take it in hand. To do
the plant justice and to produce strong-flowering
plants that will send forth spikes bearing a dozen
to eighteen of its brilliant scarlet blossoms some
little cultural treatment is necessary. Where
large pots of it exist these should be shaken out
when all fear of frost is past, and, selecting the
largest-sized plants, transplant them 0 inches apart
on a warm south border in soil fairly deep and
rich. At planting time if the weather be dry a
good watering may be necessary, but afterwards
they will take care of themselves. The plant
succeeds weli in strong, rich loam and in this soil
grows vigorously, rarely showing any signs of
disease in the leaves. By the autumn the largest
plants will have growths as large as a man's
thumb, shorter than usual it may be, but sturdy
and certain to flower well. The smaller pieces
from the spring planting should be pricked otf into
boxes or into nursery beds to form the batch for
another year. Though the plant is comparatively

270

THE GARDEN

[April 20, 1895.

hardy it cannot endure severe frosts, and for
autumn flowering should be lifted early, potted,
and placed in a cold frame for a few days to en-
courage new roots. After flowering is completed
remove to a pit secure from frost. In spring
these plants may be potted into larger pots and
plunged in the open in coal ashes. Having kept
the plants two seasons in the pots, they will be
best shaken out and planted in the open as recom-
mended above. In this way continued vigour
may be kept up and its useful spikes of flowers
fully repay the labour entailed. E. J.

Trees and Shrubs.

JAPANESE MAPLES.

palm must, I think, be awarded to those two
coloured-leaved varieties atro-purpureum and
sanguineum, which glow with a mass of colour
till the leaves drop. The richest tints are fur-
nished by plants fully exposed to the sun, but
not where they are parched up during the
summer, as these Maples delight in a cool,
fairly moist spot, and succeed even in soils of a
heavy consistency. T.

A GREAT number of hardy shrubs are brought
on under glass and employed for the embellish-
ment of the greenhouse or conservatory during
the winter and early spring months, but in
nearly every case it is the blossoms which form
their most attractive feature, hence the various
Japanese Maples stand out almost unique among
plants of this class, as their principal beauty
consists in the charming foliage. The most of
these Japanese Maples are varieties of Acer
palmatum, more generally known under the
specific name of polymorphum. They differ
from the normal palmate-leaved type in various
ways, some having the foliage richly coloured,
particularly in atro-purpureum and sanguineum,
while in one form, roseum marginatum, the
small leaves are all deeply edged with pink. In
some, again, the foliage is very finely divided,
and amongst this class there are varieties with
coloured leaves as well as some forms in which
the foliage is green. The habit of the plant,
too, varies in the different varieties. When re-
quired for indoor decoration they may be grown
altogether in pots, and readily lend themselves
to this mode of culture. When no longer re-
quired for the greenhouse they may be plunged
out of doors and allowed to remain there till
the autumn, when I prefer to remove them
under slight shelter, for though hardy they
are when in pots the better for a little protec-
tion, for the sake not only of the plants, but
also of the pots in which they are growing.
These Acers are all propagated by grafting on to
the typical A. palmatum, with which the whole
of the varieties readily unite. They are largely
grown by the Japanese, who from their desire
for singularity are fond of grafting several varie-
ties on to one plant, the result being acuriosity. but
to my mind far less pleasing than when each va-
riety forms a specimen by itself. Plants grafted
as above described in Japan often make their
appearance during the winter in the London
auction rooms, being sent from that country
in company with Lilies, Tree Preonies, and
various other subjects. The Acers are, how-
ever, as a rule, not a success, for the stocks on
which they are grafted are usually old and
gnarled, with but few roots ; hence they bear
the journey so badly that the mortality among
them is generally very great, and the living
ones by no means realise high prices. They
;ire usually sent tied up in bundles of half-a-
dozen or more, with the roots surrounded by
Moss, and packed in such a way that they are
held securely in position while the air can
circulate around the branches. In this way,
however, the hard, woody nature of the plants
does not enable them to travel like the Tree
Pjeonies, which are of a stouter and more suc-
culent nature. The fact that these Japanese
Maples are hardy is to a great extent over-
looked by planters, yet they form very beautiful
objects in the open ground. So situated, the

THE WHITE PINE.
Wf fear we have from time to time undervalued
this tree. Although we have seen it in its
native country where its magnificent stature is
very striking, a great many places in England
never show any line trees of it. We have lately
seen some very fine ones at Cliveden, which
makes us think more of its value as one of our
really hardy exotic Pines. It is all over
Canada, and is, perhaps, one of the finest trees
one sees there, especially if one is lucky enough
to come across a colony of old trees. We hear
a very good account of the way it does in Ger-
many, and perhaps some of our readers can tell
us of good plantations of it in various parts of
this country. There cannot be any doubt about
its hardiness.

The misfortune of this garden planting of
conifers is that they are never done in any
sensible, thorough woodmanlike way. The pine-
tum, with its grafted trees all stuck about like
toys, is no good whatever, and even in the best
pineta the experiments are vitiated by the large
amount of soil given to many of the trees,
as at Dropmore, where Mr. Philip Frost gave
scores of loads of good loam to the Douglas Fir.
This prevents any fair test of the natural condi-
tions of our own country. Deep masses of made
ground like this retain moisture so long, that
the first test of all, and perhaps the most im-
portant as regards coniferous trees, is the power
of the tree to do with our rainfall. That is
why we see so many garden trees thriving very
well for a few years as long as the artificial mass
of soil in which they are planted holds out, but
when the trees begin to root into the natural
soil of the country and to try to put up with our
rainfall, we see many of them turning back-
wards, dying and perishing. Planters should
try much more Pines like this in masses, just
as they would Larch or Scotch, adapting the
tree to the soil as far as possible, but adding no
artificial aid whatever ; because, as we take it,
a tree can be of no use in our woodlands that
will not live on the same terms as our Oak,
Beech and Scotch Fir, that is to say, give us a
good result from the natural soils and conditions
of the couutry. Woods or plantations of the
White Pine from that point of view we should
like very much to hear something about.

heat during the winter. After flowering it may
as soon as all danger from sharp frosts is over be
plunged out of doors to remain, till the autumn.
About fifteen years ago the Mexican Orange
Flower, as the Choisya is sometimes called, at-
tracted a good deal of attention as a flowering
shrub for the greenhouse, but proving hardy in
so many districts it was less grown under glass.
The last winter, however, has so severely crippled
it, that it is probable (in common with many other
so-called hardy evergreens) we shall not see it
outdoors so much as formerly, in which case it
may be more grown as a greenhouse shrub. — T.

Furze and the winter. — The destruction of
the common Furze throughout the country must
be great, judging by what we see in the southern
counties. We grow several kinds of Furze — the
Foxbrush and the autumn flowering, or, as it is
sometimes called, Irish Furze. They seem to be
about equally affected by the frost ; that is to say,
in many cases dead to the ground, or nearly so.
When people talk of the use of the Furze as a
fodder plant, its tenderness in hard winters should
be taken into account. It is not pleasant to see
large masses of this plant dead, and so the sim-
plest way out of it is to put a match to them.
After that the man who cuts down the stems finds
his work very much easier. We set fire to a mass
the other day, and never saw handsomer flames or
quicker execution. It wasa sunny afternoon, and
the flame ran through the mass in six minutes.
It is best to do this with Furze, because when it
starts from the bottom it breaks all the fresher
and better. It is better to chop down the stems
after burning. With all its tenderness it is too
charming a bush to give up, and we go on sowing
our Furze. Near the sea, perhaps, it is not so
much injured as in inland places, and its fre-
quency near the sea on the Continent is no doubt
the reason why the French call it the " Sea Rush."
— Field.

THE

PONTIC RHODODENDRONS AND
THE FROST.

Spirasa Lindleyana. — This Himalayan species,
so well described on p. 222 of The Garden, is with-
out doubt the best of the whole family of slitubby
kinds. The finest example I ever saw was at Orton
Hall, Peterborough. Growing there at the back of one
of the rock gardens, it reached fully 15 feet high. The
semi-drooping panicles of blossjm had a charmiug
effect.— E. M.

Choisya ternata. — Though this is hardy in
many districts of England, in others it needs a
certain amount of protection, and where this is
the case it is well worth attention for flowering
under glass, as it gives but little trouble and will
bloom freely. For a structure from which the
frost is just excluded during the winter it is very
valuable, as a thriving specimen is, from its rich
green foliage, decidedly ornamental even when
out of bloom. The fact that it is hardy in many
parts of the country stands it in good stead for a
house in which it is difficult to maintain much

The Laurels, which are now dead b}r millions, are
not by any means the only frauds among our ever-
greens. Perhaps, after the Laurel, the most popu-
lar shrub with the country gentlemen in England
is the Pontic Rhododendron, and no doubt many
people think that by using it for covert they are
doing what is safest and best ; but the plant is
not hard}' by any means, and therefore should not
be depended upon for this purpose in any cold or
low-lying districts. No doubt in certain elevated
and favoured districts it lasts longer than else-
where, but a great many are dead in the most
favoured counties of England just now, or, if not
dead, are cut very low by the frost and have a
brown, unpleasant look which is quite unlike that
of a truly hardy evergreen like the Holly, the
Savin and the Box. As we never liked the Pontic
Rhododendron very much, we made several little
plantations of other kinds in the same position, as
regards height above the sea, with a view to test-
ing on them the power of frost. The result is
that whilst our catawbiense are saved and hardy
Rhododendrons on their own roots, such as
Cunningham's White, are perfectly fresh and
healthy, the Pontic Rhododendrons touching them
are an ugly brown and dead to the ground.

We can now see the- evil effects of using pon-
ticum as a stock, because even if we selected
hardy Rhododendrons and grafted them on a pon-
tisum stock we should still probably lose them.
Cunningham's White in our own plantation is on
its own roots, but the ponticums that are dead
are also on their own roots. Between the pon-
ticum which is so much used as stock and the
tender kinds of Rhododendrons of partly Indian
origin a great deal of waste goes on in our planta-
tions. We should select only hardy kinds raised
from the North American species, ard there are
many beautiful ones of this kind which, if grown
on their own roots, i.e., raised from layers, might
be depended upon to stand any winter. But we
I might also appeal to our great nurserymen to get

April 20, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

271

us substitutes for this tender ponticum, which is
wrongly used to such a vast extent. They might
easily propagate catawbiense and other hardy
forms to take the place of the tender ponticum,
which is clearly a much less hardy plant than the
American species of Rhododendron which grow-
along the Alleghanies and other mountains in the
Eastern States. The mischief of the ponticum is
its facility of growth, which makes it so easy to
raise, just as the common Laurel is easy to raise ;
and the growth is so obviously rank and quick,
that the loss is all the greater in the end. Pon-
ticum, as we have seen, is not hardy on its own
roots, and when used as a stock in the end kills
from its vigour the plants that are grafted upon
it. So in the end we have ponticums everywhere
in pleasure grounds where there ought to be tine
old specimens of beautiful Rhododendrons. — Field.

The common Box and the winter. — Among
the evergreens which have not perished this year
from frost is the beautiful common Box, which is
so seldom seen rightly grown in our shrubberies.
The fact is, we have too great a wealth of so-called
evergreens, and in such a rich mixture usually
planted so that the good things can scarcely dis-
entangle themselves from the crowd of tender
rapid-growing things sure to perish in hard
winters, In the usual shrubbery crowd the Box
is rarely seen properly developed and well grown ;
it is crowded, overshadowed, and mostly in places
unsuited for it. In such circumstances it cannot
be what it is in a wild state, a very charming
shrub when fully exposed to the sun on an open
hillside. Often in our gardens our wild trees are
better grown than they are in the woods, but with
the Box it is not so ; no one has any idea what a
beautiful bush it is who has not seen brakes of it
wild, with its plumy, graceful toss of branches.
And, therefore, to get its best expression, it ought
to be treated in somewhat the same way, by
planting bold groups of it — not generally mixing
it at all with other shrubs, and certainly not
allowing it to be overshadowed by trees of any
kind. In that way we should get the simple and,
as we think, the charming expression of this tree,
which is a native of some of our southern hills,
though not common. It would be an excellent
thing to group here and there in coverts in open,
sunny spots. — Field.

Kitchen Garden.

TURNIPS.
ALTHOUGH the Turnip is one of the most free-
growing esculents the gardener has to deal
with, it is not always an easy matter to ensure
a constant supply of juicy, well-flavoured roots
throughout the year. The summer sowings are
in some localities very liable to be attacked by
fly, and for this pest there seems to be no effec-
tual remedy. Dusting with tobacco powder or
syringing with some insecticide if done in time
would doubtless destroy or sufficiently check
the insects, but this is in the case of large
breadths too troublesome to be of much service.
Dusting with soot has been tried with partial
success, but it is difficult to get it on to the
undersides of the leaves where the aphides do
their work. In moist seasons Turnip culture is
an easy matter, but when July and August are
hot and dry the plants are apt to come to a
standstill, the bulbs harden and never after-
wards regain their natural crispness. The ground
for the earlier sowings should be rich and tho-
roughly stirred. It should be borne in mind
that there is safety in frequent sowings. It is a
curious fact as regards the Turnip fly that
whilst one lot of plants may be totally destroyed,
another sowing made but a few days later will
quite escape. This is frequently to be seen
where large breadths are grown for market. I

have more than once remarked a large field
annihilated in the course of a week, whilst a
neighbouring field in which the plants came up
some ten days later quite escaped.

Why this should be the case I have never
been able to understand, but the ways of insect
destroyers are sometimes mysterious. Oue may
see this in the case of Roses, Strawberries, and
other things which in one part of a garden will
be badly affected by fly and mildew, whilst in
other portions the plants may wholly escape.
For frame culture, and especially where Tut nips
are forwrarded by means of hotbeds, Early Milan
is probably the best variety we have. The bulbs
begin to swell before much leaf growth is made,
and it is thus peculiarly well adapted for culture
under glass at a time of year when the days are
short and things brought on in warmth are apt
to run overmuch to leaf. One cannot, more-
over, err in employing this variety for the first
sowing in the open air, although Snowball is
very good for this purpose and many prefer it
to any other kind. For an autumn supply I
doubt if there is any better Turnip than the
Early Six Weeks, this being much in favour
with market growers, and Jersey Navet is one
of the best late varieties. In a time of heat
and drought, such as often prevails in July and
August, there is a difficulty in ensuring the
free germination of the seeds. In the case of
small breadths the best way is to sow in drills,
filling these up with water before sowing. This
will give moisture enough to bring the plants
through and start them freely into growth. Where
Turnips are grown on a larger scale this plan
is, of course, hardly practicable. Large growers
hereabouts make a practice in a time of drought
of fallowing their land destined for autumn
and winter Turnips, so that it is when required
quite free from weeds of all kinds and a certain
amount of moisture is retained in it. When
sowing time arrives the ground is ploughed and
fine harrows are kept at work for several days,
so that the soil is brought into as fine and friable a
condition as possible. A fine surface not only in-
duces quick germination, but in some measure
acting as a mulch helps to retain moisture in the
soil below. It is prudent to make two sowings
for winter use, one towards the end of July, the
other a fortnight or three weeks later. Oue
never knows what the weather will be like in
the autumn. In a cold, wet season the earliest
sowing will produce roots of just the right size ;
whereas after a fine autumn, when copious rains
with bright sunshine and warm nights prevail,
many of them will become far too gross and
coarse for table use. Market growers usually
make several sowings so as to make suie of a
constant supply of sound saleable roots all
through the autumn and winter. Any roots
that may have got too big are fed off by sheep,
so that there ia no loss. Where Turnip greens
are in frequent demand a sowing should be made
in the last week of August, as the small bulbs
stand severe winters much better than full
grown ones. In this district all the Turnips are
killed or crippled with the exception of the late
sown. One man is fortunate iD having about 7
acres of them, and they are in this time of
scarcity quite a little gold mine. J. C. C.

SoTit&r&et.

Early Turnips.— This vegetable is always
appreciated early, and it may be had some weeks
in advance of the usual time by sowing on a
sloping sheltered border or at the foot of a south
wall. Our early varieties, such as Snowball or
Early White Stone, commonly called Six Weeks,
though excellent for June supplies, are not the
best for sowing for first crop. For years I grew
the Early Paris Market, an oblong, early white
French variety, but it is not so early as the Milan

section, of which there are two kinds, the Extra
Early Milan and the White Milan, the former
the earliest Turnip I have grown. It is a strap-
leaved variety and quite a fortnight earlier than
other kinds. It differs from the white in having a
purple top and is round with a flattened root,
whilst in favourable seasons it is one of the best
for use in May. The White Milan is almost iden-
tical. I think it merely lacks the colour of the
pink-topped variety. Those who can spare a
frame will get a good return for the same, as the
roots turn in so quickly, and I have noticed they
are less subject to bolt or run when sown on
heavy clay soil. To get the best results it is well
to prepare a plot, and for heavy soils there is no
better material than burnt garden refuse freely
mixed with the soil. — G. W.

Winter Onions. — Many growers, myself
among the number, will have cause to lament the
loss of their winter-sown plants. Those in the
northern part of the country who had more snow
may be in a better position, but as far as I can
learn for miles round not a root remains of some
of the most popular kinds. Our plants stood well
till the thaw, then all collapsed with the excep-
tion of the small Queen, a variety one would not
have expected to stand. All others, such as the
Tripoli section, White Lisbon, and Italian, have
not a single good plant left. But we are fortu-
nate, as at this date we have a quarter of green
Onions that will prove most acceptable. They
are in an out-of-the-way, exposed position and
are not injured in the least. This being a singu-
lar circumstance, I will briefly relate how it
occurred. Last season we had to thin heavily
the spring-sown plants, which came up too thickly,
and thinking the thinnings might be of service,
these were laid in thickly in rows, and not being
wanted no notice was taken of them. These are
now growing freely, very few have died, and the
roots will prove most acceptable, as there is a good
breadth, showing that Onions at a certain stage
will stand severe frost. — W. S. M.

PLANTING SEAKALE IX SPRING.
Few persons who require Seakale in quantity
adopt the old method of forcing in the open the
same roots year after year, but resort to what
may be rightly termed an improved mode of cul-
ture by planting root cuttings yearly, and thus
securing in a shorter time good material for forc-
ing. Some object to new ways, and think the old
ones superior, but they would change their views
had they a large family to supply with this vege-
table for six months, from the middle of November
till May. The winter we have just passed through
shows the value of this vegetable, as at this date
(March 30) there are few vegetables of any kind
in the open ground, and Seakale is doubly valu-
able. If placed in heat in quantities as required
about every fortnight there is always a supply of
good quality if not forced too hard and in a
dark place to get pure white growths. Much
of the after success depends upon the way the
roots are started and the time of planting. There
is no difficulty in getting strong roots for forcing
the same year if the plants are given a good start,
and no matter what system is adopted, whether
from root cuttings or from seed, it is well to get
the planting roots intended for next season's forc-
ing into growth at an early date. If seed is sown
now thinly and the seedlings given ample space,
they make good material for planting another
season, but it is necessary to lift and trim the
roots, cut off the crowns, and treat as advised for
root cuttings. I favour root cuttings because
they are so readily obtained, and at a time it is
convenient to prepare them for early spring plant-
ing. Strong forcing roots provide just the ma-
terial required, and make roots in one season if
fed well and planted in good soil after being
started in frames. Seakale to do well must have
food. It roots deeply and likes a strong loam ;
but given ample food it is not fastidious as to soil.
I find we get good roots on a light gravelly soil,
but more food is required. Good planting roots

272

THE GARDEN.

[April 20, 1895.

half a foot long are best, and, of course, the
stronger the better if small plants or seedlings
are used ; the crown must be cut away, and root
cuttings are cut even on the top. I prefer to
place the food under the young roots and in
liberal quantities, and to give plenty of room in
rows not less than 2 feet apart between the rows
and half the distance between the plants. In
planting with a dibber make sure the root cut-
ting is on the bottom, not leaving a space be-
tween the soil and plants. To get the best results,
it is well to place the young planting roots in
frames during the winter. About three weeks
before planting they are placed in rich soil in
boxes in rows rather close together, and planted
about the third week in April; Each plant will
then have a mass of fibrous roots, and with pre-
pared plants like these it is well to plant in drills,
using a spade. This is better than a dibber, for
the roots are spread out, and in poor soil such
aids as wood ashes, fish manure, or guano may be
placed in the drill. During growth the plants
are restricted to one crown, the strongest, and
frequent dressings of soot and fish manure are
given in showery weather. G. YV ythes.

TOMATOES AND DISEASE.
Recently we had an instructive paper at a
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on
" Diseases of the Tomato," and I, in common with
others, attended to gain some information, as I
have suffered badly at times and have been obliged
to clear whole houses to arrest decay of fruits.
Mr. Collinette in his paper introduced two diseases
we have not had much experience of, or at least I
have not, and trust it is a local disease that will
not be imported. One closely resembles the curl,
and may be the same under another name and
have different effects in the warmer climate re-
ferred to, so that we may not be as free from its
evil effects as imagined. In the discussion which
followed, Mr. Douglas stated that his plants did not
suffer from disease, and thought it was a cultural
defect, but I fail to see this, as persons who only
grow Tomatoes, and often in a large way, paying
every attention to culture, suffer badly. Mr.
Douglas stated he had on one occasion been
troubled with white-fly ; he soon got rid of it, and
was now growing plants yearly and had no
disease trouble whatever. I wish most growers
were in a similar position, as in many cases I find
the disease increasing. Another gentleman at the
meeting thought a close, humid atmosphere aggra-
vated the disease, and doubtless such is the case,
but not to the extent one may imagine, as plants
in the open are subject to various diseases. I
have found there is no means of escape even in
the most favourable seasons : for instance, in 1893
one could air as much as one liked and still there
was disease. I am of the same opinion as Mr.
Collinette. Disease is hereditary ; it is transmitted
by diseased seed, and to a certain extent assisted
to spread by bad culture, probably by a humid
atmosphere. For a few years I have saved my own
seed of various kinds, not from unhealthy plants,
but from the first crop and of best shaped fruits.
Some kinds are more subject to disease, especially
the large varieties. I have never had a plant
of Conference diseased, whilst whole crops of
Chemin have failed. Perhaps Mr. Douglas does
not grow many varieties, and he may have more
favourable positions for his houses; he certainly is
fortunate in his immunity from disease with these
plants when so many suffer. Grower

by the thousand into open quarters, later on to be
occupied by Celery, where they will soon grow
and be cut for use in quick succession to others
put in warmer positions. Early saladings will be
scarce this year, and such plants ought to pay
well for planting in quantity now. The variety
which has stood the winter best is the old Bath
Brown Cos, but Hammersmith Cabbage Lettuce
will be ready for cutting earlier than any of the
Cos varieties. — J. C. Tallack.

Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower.— By
sowing a pinch of seed early in September, prick-
ing the plants out into a frame when large enough
to handle, keeping them stocky through the
winter and planting out towards the end of March,
I am able to cut nice heads of this Cauliflower at
the end of July and throughout August. In no
other way can this Cauliflower be had in good con-
dition at that season. — E. M.

Spawning: Mushroom beds.— Spawning is
often, I think, unduly deferred. Many allow their
beds to fall to 80° and even 70° before inserting
the spawn ; consequently after the operation the
heat rapidly declines and the spawn remains in-
active for a long period. The above figures are
all very well where the beds are of more than
ordinary depth, but where no more than a foot or
15 inches deep the spawn may safely be inserted
at 90°, as there is little or no fear of any reaction
in the heat. Spawned at this figure and well
covered with dry oat straw, beds will often show
Mushrooms at the end of a month and continue to
yield over a longer period than those that are
spawned at a much lower figure. — J. C.

Wintering Lettuces under walls.— An old

saw tells us not to put all our eggs in one basket,
and its truth is very apparent in many ways
just now. Lettuces that were planted in the
autumn for the earliest crop close up to south
walls have nearly all been killed, as the sun had
thawed the snow from them before the severe
frost was over. Plants left in the seed beds and
others pricked out on the open borders at some
distance from the walls have come through the
winter without a loss, and are now being planted

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1010.

VANDAS.

(with a coloured plate of v. suavis.*)

It was on the introduction in 1847 of the well
known V. suavis and V. tricolor in one im-
portation that the value of Vandas began to
be apparent, and since then the genus has been
constantly enriched. Vandas, except in a few
instances, are easily managed. They include
also some of the most stately habited of Asiatic
Orchids, and this, combined with their hand-
some evergreen foliage, makes them attractive
at every season of the year.

About thirty species are known, these being
spread over a wide area in Tropical Asia ; from
the Himalayas they stretch southwards and
eastwards through India and Burmah to the
islands of the Malayan Archipelago, one species
even reaching Australia. They are always epi-
phytal, the leaves being mostly arranged in a
distichous manner, and are usually strap-shaped,
although in a few species they are nearly or
quite terete.

In regard to the cultivation of these plants, it
is impossible, especially in the matters of tem-
peratures and moisture, to speak of them as a
whole. The widely separate localities over
which they are spread, and the peculiar climatal
conditions which attend the growth of indi-
vidual species, necessitate in several instances
marked differences in the methods of cultiva-
tion. The majority of the species, however,
especially those of dwarf growth, require
identical conditions, and, except where stated
otherwise, the following particulars as to treat-
ment may be taken as applying to the whole
of those here mentioned. They may be grown
in pots, baskets or cylinders ; for the dwarfer
kinds the two last are preferable, pots being
generally used for the stronger growers like

* Drawn for The Garden in the Royal Gardens,
Kew, by J. Allen. Lithographed and printed by
Guillaume Wevereyns.

V. suavis and tricolor. In whichever of these
they may be planted the lower two-thirds of
the space should be filled with drainage, the
remainder with clean living Sphagnum. No
species requires peat or any like materia) about
the roots, but when large pots have to be used
a few lumps of charcoal or porous brick may be
mixed with the Sphagnum. Whilst Vandas
may be termed stove plants they do not require
such essentially tropical conditions as some
Orchids, such as Phalsenopsids do, and mistakes
are more frequently made in giving too high
a temperature than in the other direction.
A winter temperature of 55° to 60° and a sum-
mer one of 65° to 80° will be found sufficiently
high, the lower figures indicating the night
temperatures. A point of great importance in
the successful cultivation of all the species is
that they should have the greatest possible
amount of light, short of causing actual dis-
coloration or damage to the foliage. It is found
that by keeping the plants within a few inches
of the glass and shading only when the sun's
rays are most powerful, not only is the foliage
harder and sturdier, but the flowering is more
regular and profuse, and the blooms themselves
of better colour. During the growing season
an abundant supply of moisture at the roots
is indispensable, and as a considerable propor-
tion of these are usually outside the pot or.
basket, the necessity of maintaining a moisture
laden atmosphere is forcibly suggested. In the
matter of ventilation a regular supply of fresh
air without permitting a cold current to pass
over the plants should be aimed at. In winter
the supply of moisture should be greatly
reduced, but the Sphagnum should, neverthe-
less, be kept slightly moist at all times. As
soon in spring as the tips of the roots show
signs of renewed activity by pushing forth
green points, the dead Sphagnum should be
replaced by new, and the drainage put in
good order. When the roots have attached
themselves to the sides of the pots or baskets,
care should be taken not to disturb them ; the
material which has to be replaced can generally
be removed by the aid of a pointed stick and
by syringing. For the same reason it is advis-
able, when more root room is desirable, to
place the old pot with its roots attached inside
a larger one.

V. Amesiana. — This dwarf growing variety was
introduced by Messrs. Low, of Clapton, from
Upper Burmah. The flowers are on tall erect
spikes, the sepals and petals white, flushed with
rose ; the lip rich magenta-rose, with paler
coloured margins. From twentj- to fifty flowers
have been borne on one spike, and as many as
eight}- have been counted on imported spikes.
This species may be grown in an intermediate or
even cool house.

V. Kimballiana. — It is also to Messrs. Low
that we owe the introduction of this Vanda. It
comes from the same country as V. Amesiana,
and is nearer to it in relationship than any other.
It is undoubtedly one of the loveliest of the genus.
It has leaves still narrower than those of V.
Amesiana and almost terete. The flowers are
between 2 inches and 3 inches in diameter, and
from six to nine are borne on the spike. The
sepals and petals are sometimes of a pure white,
sometimes flushed with rose, a beautiful con-
trast being made by the rich rosy purple of the
lip. It requires the same temperature as V.
Amesiana.

V. teres and V. Hookeriana. — These two
species are distinct from other Vandas on account
of their terete foliage. As a garden plant, V. teres
is the superior. It has dark green stems about
the thickness of a goose-quill, and cylindrical
leaves about 6 inches long. From three to six
flowers are borne on the raceme, each of which
is 3 inches across. The oblong sepals are white

Apbil 20. 1895.]

THE GARDEN

273

tinged with rose, the large and more rounded
petals being deep rose. The lip is very showy ;
in front it is of a rich rose veined with orange, but
in the throat the latter forms the ground colour,
and it is spotted and striped with crimson. It
is a native of Burmah and Northern India. V.
Hookeriana is easily distinguished from V. teres
by its paler green, more pointed and smaller leaves.
The racemes usually carry two flowers. The sepals
are white, tinged with rose ; the petals larger,
more spathul?te, and spotted with magenta. The
lip is 1 j inches wide ; in front it is of a purple-tinted
white, spotted with magenta towards the edges,
streaks of the same colour occurring in the centre.
V. teres was introduced in 1828, but it was not
until 1873 that V. Hookeriana was seen in English
gardens. The cultivation of these two species is
different in some respects from that of other
Vandas. They require the greatest possible
amount of sunshine to induce them to flower, and
may be kept pretty well unshaded at all times.
In summer the night temperature should not fall
below 70°, and an abundance of moisture must be
given. It has been found a good plan to set apart
one light of a well-heated frame for them, plant-
ing pieces about a foot long in a bed of Sphagnum
4 inches deep, draining it well. In the growing
season the frame may be shut up and syringed
about 4 o'clock, putting on again before evening a
crack of air. In winter they may be kept quite
dry in a temperature of 55° to 60°. The essential
points, therefore, in the cultivation of these two
species, more especially of V. teres, are unre-
stricted light, a high degree of heat and mois-
ture, and a thorough ripening off in autumn and
winter.

V. suavis and V. tricolor. — For general gar-
den work there can be no doubt that these two
species are the best of Vandas. In habit both are
stately and handsome ; they grow well with other
plants, and they illustrate, moreover, a style of
growth which is comparatively rare in plant
houses. Reichenbach considered them to be va-
rieties of one species. Out of flower they are in-
distinguishable, and in flower the chief distin-
guishing character is in the ground colour of the
sepals and petals, which in V. suavis is white,
whereas in tricolor it is yellow. They are both
natives of Java. The commonest error in the
cultivation of these two species is in giving them
too high a temperature and too much shade.
They are intermediate rather than stove plants,
and a minimum winter temperature of 50° will
suit them.

V. oerulea. — This species blooms in late
autumn, and at that season there is no Orchid
which excels it in the wealth and beauty of its
flowers. The spikes, two of which not unfre-
quently appear simultaneously on one plant, carry
from ten to twenty flowers ; the latter number,
however, very rarely, and only on newly-imported
plants or on those of extraordinary vigour. In
the best varieties each flower is 4 inches in dia-
meter, and the sepals and petals (which ought to
slightly overlap each other) are of a lovely pale
lavender-blue, tessellated with a darker shade.
The lip is small, but of a yet deeper blue. It is a
plant of erect habit, with two opposite rows of
dark green rigid leaves each 6 inches to 8 inches
long and strap-shaped. This species has acquired
the reputation of being a difficult one to deal
with, and no doubt with some justice.

V. Sanderiaxa. — Whilst this species does not
possess the charm and delicate colouring of V.
cterulea, it is, on the other hand, the largest-
flowered and showiest of Vandas. The flowers
are each 5 inches across, and a dozen or more are
produced on one spike. The upper sepal and
petals are pale rosy lilac tinged with j-ellow and
have also crimson dots at the base. The lower
sepals are 2 inches in diameter, fawn-coloured and
reticulated with brownish crimson. The lip is
small and of a dull crimson. Notwithstanding
their marked structural differences, the flowers
strongly suggest those of Odontoglossum vexil-
larium. The species was introduced in 1881 from
Mindanao, one of the Philippine Islands, and first

flowered in Mr. Lee's collection near Leather-
head.

V. Cathcarti is a tall-growing plant with slen-
der, terete stems and pale green, narrowly oblong
leaves 6 inches long. It is a handsome species,
but does not flower freely as a rule. The flowers
are upwards of 4 inches in diameter, with broad
oblong sepals and petals, the ground colour of
which is pale yellow, but marked with bars of
reddish brown. The lip is white with a tinge of
red on the side lobes, whilst the large central lobe
has a yellow incurved margin. Sir Joseph Hooker
discovered this species in the hot valleys of the
Eastern Himalayas. It has been most success-
fully grown when trained on a damp wall, and
differs from most Vandas in preferring a good
deal of shade.

There are still to be mentioned a number of
dwarf growing species, which form a beautiful
and important section of the genus. V. Ben-
soni is a charming species with flowers 2 inches
across, whose sepals and petals are marked with
numerous red- brown dots on a yellowish ground,
whilst the lip is of a soft violet. V. coerulescens,
as the name implies, has flowers in which the
prevailing tint is blue. They are over an inch
across, the sepals and petals being pale purplish
blue and the lip a rich violet-blue. This de-
lightful plant should be in every collection, a
remark which applies as strongly to V. Deni-
soniana, whose beautiful white flowers render
it distinct from all other Vandas. The true V.
insignis is not a common Orchid, what is gene-
rally known under the name being a totally
different plant and a variety of V. tricolor ; the
true plant has tawny yellow sepals and petals,
blotched with dark reddish brown, and a lip of
a delicate rosy white. V. Parishi is distinct by
reason of its handsome bright green leaves,
which are oblong and unusually thick and firm.
The outer segments of the flower are of a
greenish yellow spotted with bright reddish
brown, the lip being white, striped with orange
at the base, but magenta in front. V. Rox-
burghi has pale green sepals and petals tessel-
lated with olive-brown, the lip being violet-
purple and white. In this and various other
species of Vanda the outside of the sepals and
petals is white. W. J. B.

The week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.
Beaks ix framks. — A short time ago I advised
the sowing of Syon House and Ne Plus Ultra
French Beans in small pots with a view to trans-
planting them into frames during the month of
April. If after growth commenced this batch
was given a cooler temperature, they will be
robust and hardy, with thick, dark, fleshy leaves,
a condition absolutely necessary if good progress
and full crops are to be secured in cool frame
temperature. As a rule in fairly large establish-
ments several frames recently occupied by Endive,
Lettuce, Cauliflowers, and Cabbage will now be
empty, and if the soil in which these have been
growing is fairly rich and dry it need not be
removed, but some fresh added to it, stirring in
somewhat freely an approved fertiliser. Close the
frames for a few days to thoroughly warm the
compost through, after which plant in rows 18
inches apart, disturbing the balls as little as
possible, and planting not too deeply, so as to
avoid stem-rotting. If the soil is in a semi-moist
condition, no water will be required for the present,
beyond settling the compost about the roots. If
the frames are kept rather close for ten days the
plants will quickly become established, and with
increased air and overhead syringing on tine after-
noons at closing time growth will be strong and
rapid. This early closing must not be overlooked,
as the nights may be cold for some time to come,

and the difference between plants which have the
benefit of husbanded sun heat and those which
have it not will be apparent. If a frame or two in
which Asparagus has been forced can be spared, it
will pay to re-pot a portion of this batch into 9 inch
pots, and plunge them in the partly exhausted bed
of leaves on which the frame stands, if necessary
adding a fresh lining of leaves and stable litter.
The roots being confined in pots will induce a
moderate growth and earlier cropping than will
be case with those planted out in the unheated
frames, these last forming a succession. Where the
pits or frames are of sufficient depth to allow of
it, Canadian Wonder may be grown in this way,
using soil free from manure, as this Bean is so
prone to rank growth if at all stimulated in the
earlier stages. Coverings of double mats will, of
course, be necessary every night for some time to
come. In warm sheltered gardens the first-named
varieties of thesame age and height may be planted
out on a south border, to be protected from frosts
and wind by the erection of a rough framework,
the same being covered at eventide by canvas or
ordinary garden mats. On frosty mornings the
covering must remain on till after breakfast. One
great point in early outdoor culture is to work in
amongst and around the roots a quantity of fine
semi-dry soil. Do not sink the plants in trenches,
as some do for protection, but rather place a few
Yew boughs here and there on either side of the
rows. Slugs often play havoc with this batch, a
few of these pests unobserved ruining the whole lot
in a few nights. The best plan is to sprinkle soot
and lime thinly over the surface of the ground at
planting time, renewing this after rain until the
Beans grow out of harm's way. Sowing the seed
in the open ground had better be deferred till the
first week in May, and even then a very sunny
site will be necessary, coupled with a warm, well-
drained soil. Sow plenty of seed, as Beans are
not in the best condition this season, and thinning
to any extent can bo practised if the plants should
be too thick.

Scccessional Tomatoes. — The present is a
good time to sow seed for the production of
plants to fruit in cooler houses either in boxes
or pots, the growth being trained up the roof
glass or in an upright manner to stout stakes.
These will follow the second earliest lot now
being grown on in an intermediate heat. The
Old Red is still one of the best. Sensation,
Jubilee, a good strain of Perfection, and Con-
queror are useful. If weight of fruit to the indi-
vidual plant is the main thing, Oxonian, a variety
sent out last year, is worthy of cultivation, the
fruit being simply enormous, and well adapted
for cooking or for converting into sauce. Where
small lunch-sized Tomatoes are in request, the old
Trentham Fillbasket is a useful kind and a good
bearer, and where the desire is to have a variety
which, in addition to being a heavy and continuous
cropper, is likewise Al for exhibition, I cannot
name a better than Webb's Regina. One noted
grower for market after growing it on a moderate
scale last year decided to make that his sheet
anchor in 1895, so good was it in every respect.
Plants raised recently for outdoor work must be
brought on under as cool conditions as possible,
and subjected to all the fresh air and as dry an
atmosphere as can be given ; too much heat and a
stuffy atmosphere will lay the plants open to
attacks from the dreaded disease when they are
exposed against open walls. Some of the very
best results are obtained from plants in 10-inch
pots, these being plunged in the border at the foot
of the wall and well mulched to preserve the mois-
ture. If half the plants is so treated and the
remaining half planted in the ordinary manner, a
supply over a longer period will be secured, as
those in the pots will ripen a fortnight sooner than
the planted out ones. It must, however, be borne
in mind that, owing to their confined condition and
a multiplicity of roots, a good amount of nourish-
ment will be indispensable.

Main-crop Beet. — From the present time to
the end of the month is a good time to sow Beet
for the principal winter supply. I know that
some advocate sowing in May, but should the

274

THE GARDEN

[April ,20, 1895.

summer turn out wet and cold or excessively dry,
the roots often do not attain to much more
than half their normal size, as practical men do
not care to sow Beet on richly manured land. A
good deal depends on the variety, as some sorts,
although catalogued as medium-sized and even
small, will, even on unmnnured land if it is in
fairly good heart, grow coarse and woolly in spite
of late sowings and little thinning. For my own
part I prefer Veitch's Selected Red as an all-round
table Beet, it being of medium size and very rich
colour, and quite free from white rings, so notice-
able in some Beets ; its flavour also is irreproach-
able. Nutting's Dwarf lied is a capital old Beet,
Dell's being hard to beat where an extra dark-
fleshed variety is wanted. A lightish soil, free
from stones and of fair depth, and that has
been cropped since manure was dug in, is what
is wanted. Moderation also in thinning out the
young plants is necessary, as if too much space is
left between them any kind will grow to an
ungainly size.

Parsley.— The end of April is a good time to
sow for the principal winter supply. One or more
batches should occupy ground that can be con-
veniently covered with frames as soon as bad
weather comes on in November or December.
From this sowing also transplantings may be
made for the purpose of lifting in autumn and
placing in frames or pits for winter pickings. In
this case plenty of room must be allowed between
each plant in order that lifting may be made easy
and a ball of soil be secured. I generally sow in
July for early spring use, protecting the young
plants during winter with a frame. This lot
springs into new growth in February or March,
and soon gives a good supply. The ground should
always be specially prepared for Parsley by the
admixture of plenty of insect-proof ingredients,
such as soot, gas-lime, and wood ashes. This is a
good mixture for banishing wireworm, the chief
enemy to Parsley roots.

Potatoes in tots.— Where these are grown for
a few early dishes the haulm will now be assuming
a yellowish cast. The tubers also will be of fair
size. Less water and increased volumes of fresh
air will likewise be needed to impart flavour and
prevent them from eating watery. Later lots
must be well nourished.

Seakale. — Where the produce from beds forced
by means of pots and leaves has been cut, means
must now be taken to gradually harden oft' the
stools previous to complete exposure. The lids of
the pots should be removed each morning, and
replaced again at eventide. After this treatment
for a fortnight the pots may be removed and the
crowns just covered with a few leaves, this being
taken off after a similar period.

Planting Seakale. — A fortnight ago I ad-
vised planting a portion of the more forward root
cuttings in a sunny aspect for supplying crowns
for early November forcing. The main lot may
now be planted, as this will have a longer rest
after shedding its leaves in autumn before being
placed in heat. More manure may be dug in
than is advisable with the earlier lot above referred
to. Plenty of space also is essential both between
the rows and from plant to plant. From those that
are well sprouted remove all but three, and draw
a little soil over them to protect the tender growth
from frost. Frequently slugs and other pests are
troublesome, eating oft' the young leaves as they
begin to develop. Sparrows also and wood pigeons
often attack them, hence the need for occasional
sprinklings of soot and wood ashes. Malt dust is a
capital manure for Seakale. It may be dug in
at the start, and likewise applied in the form of a
top dressing after growth has advanced some-
what. The rains will then wash in its virtues.

Pricking off. — There will now be a consider-
able amount of this work amongst seedlings of
various early vegetables. Early Celery, Lettuce,
Cabbages, and Cauliflowers must not be neglected
in this respect, or no amount of after attention will
atone for it. See also that the boxes containing
such things are removed from the germinating
quarters to cooler ones in due time, as if once the
seedlings are allowed to become leggy and fall

about, they seldom take kindly to the soil when
pricked off. In a cooler position they come on
slowly but surely, and can then be attended to
from time to time.

Hoeing and cleaning. — A good deal of this
will now be needed amongst the earlier green
crops, as ill weeds grow apace. Spring Cabbages
and Spinach are much benefited by frequent sur-
face stirring to remove small weeds and admit air.
After hoeing, a little soil should be drawn up to
the plants of the former. Onions will require
hand- weeding, firming, and a broadcast stimulant,
using the thick-necked ones for present kitchen
use. Ground should now be got in readiness for
the earliest Leeks. They may be grown either in
trenches or on the level ; if the latter, holes should
be made with a dibber some 9 inches in depth,
and the young plants dropped down to the bottom,
a little soil afterwards being forced in to cover the
roots. Plenty of rich food is necessary for this
crop, as the larger they grow the better.

Herhs.— The more tender sorts of those sown
some time since in heat will now be fit for hardening
off, and in a fortnight's time may be transplanted,
giving them some fine soil to start in. Seeds also
of all the more hardy robust herbs may now be
sown in the open border. J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Bananas. — Those who grow Bananas will now find
it advantageous to feed liberally plants that have
thrown up fruits and to top-dress with short
manure. Musa Cavendishi is the best variety for
most growers, owing to its dwarf habit, and
though thought inferior, the fruits are greatly
superior to those imported. Many can grow a
few plants in large pots or tubs who cannot devote
a house to their culture, and frequently plants
grown in this way are more profitable, as when a
house is devoted to them they are, like Negro
Largo Figs with a large root area, prone to much
leaf growth and few fruits, whereas with restricted
root growth they can be better managed. Large
plants that have not fruited should not be allowed
to produce suckers too freely. Any plants large
enough to fruit should be kept on the dry side till
the flowers show, when more moisture and rich
food in the way of liquid manure should be
given, top-dressing with some artificial manure.
A high temperature with ample moisture in all
parts of the house is necessary. Fruiting plants
should have a heat of 70° at night with 10° higher
by day, though excellent fruits may be cut from
M. Cavendishi grown in a temperature 10° lower
than the average given, allowing it to run up
freely at closing time. Plants that are grown
slowly at times are longer in pushing up their
fruit, and if stationary too long the fruits decay
in the stem, so that it is advisable to supply more
warmth at this season.

Succession plants. — Suckers taken from fruit-
ing plants now if strong and potted on will make
fruiting plants for next spring. I prefer suckers
taken in April or May, as they winter better, do
well in a low temperature, ami show fruits in
about twelve months from time of potting. Earlier
suckers are apt to show in the autumn, and they
do not thrive so well, making a poor growth.
In some cases there is a difficulty in get-
ting the fruit free of the leaves. The com-
post should be good rough, turfy loam, witli
some decayed manure and small bones or bone
meal, potting firmly and shading for a short
time. Short, sturdy suckers are preferable to
large pieces with drawn leaves. If extra strong
suckers can be obtained and planted at once, it is
important that they get good drainage, rich soil,
and plenty of warmth from the start. Kept in a
dry hot-house, the foliage soon gets infested with
red spider and thrips. Smoking occasionally is
necessary, and in syringing it is well to lightly
damp overhead, as the deep midrib conveys the
water into the heart of the plant in greater quanti-
ties than is desirable. If planted out in beds, it
is well to restrict root space not so much in width
as depth. If planted too deeply, the plants in dark
houses or mixed with other plants decay at the

collar and fail just before the fruit forms. It is
always well to renew the border after fruiting, as
the soil is impoverished, giving new drainage
before replanting.

Strawberries in pots. — The earlier fruits will
now be at the ripening stage, and need care to
obtain flavour. Too much water in dull, sunless
weather will cause poor flavour, and if the plants
are in strong heat in a moist house the flavour will
be second - rate. Objection is taken to forced
Strawberries by many owing to the lack of flavour,
but to a certain extent this may be avoided
from this date. With earlier crops it is more
difficult, as there is not time to get flavour by
adopting cooler treatment. Tho=e who force in
quantity and are able to devote whole houses to
the plants will be in a position to lower the
temperature and keep the house drier. Much can
be done by careful removal to a small pit or house
where the plants may be given more air, and thus
obtain the brisk acid taste so desirable. Manures
are often given too late, and thus affect flavour.
I feel sure many plants would be much benefited
by giving manure just as the flower-spike is push-
ing up, not waiting till the fruits are formed.
Strawberries fruiting in vineries should be removed
as early as possible, as the plants are so subject
to red spider and mildew.

Succession crops will now come so freely, that
there is no fear as to their cropping qualities if
specially grown for forcing. Thinning should be
done early as the plants soon feel the strain of a
heavy set. Thinning should be done according to
the size of fruit. Such a large kind as Auguste
Nicaise, a very fine mid-season variety, requires
more thinning than Keens'Seedling, six fruits being
ample, whereas eight to ten may be left on others
of less size. For fruiting in May I always depend
on President, one of our very best forcing varieties.
Its chief fault is that it mildews badly, and if not
grown against the glass the foliage gets much
drawn. To follow this Sir C. Napier is always
good, the fruits firm, solid, and of grand colour.
To get these varieties good it is well to force
slowly from the start. There is often a difficult
period to bridge over by those who force Straw-
berries— that is the end of May, as in many gardens
the forced plants are over, and those in the open not
nearly ripe. In such seasons as 1893 the outside crop
was ready by the end of May, but it rarely
happens we have such favourable weather. The
plants in the open this season have been much cut
by severe frosts, so will be late. I find it a good
plan to place a few hundred plants in cold frames
about the end of April, these providing a supply
at the time named. I do not advise growing on
shelves or stages, but on a cool ash bottom. Grown
thus, there is less watering, insect pests are
few, and the flavour is equal to that of outdoor
plants. Of course grown thus it is necessary to
stake all the flower trusses and to grow near the
light. Frames that have wintered plants may be
made good use of. Many shifts have to be made
at times to obtain a late supply for frames.
Treated as advised, it is not necessary to keep the
pot plants. Should there be a scarcity I have
found that young plants lifted with a ball do
well, and though they must be well thinned, good-
sized fruits are obtained. The much-abused
Noble does well given cold frame treatment and
the flavour is very fair. Those who require late
Strawberries after the permanent beds are over
would do well to harden their forced plants of
Vicointesse and La Grosse Sucree. These planted
out in richly-manured land will furnish a good
autumn crop.

Cherries under glass will need more atten-
tion just now than at any other period whilst
being forced. The Cherry being so subject to
the attacks of aphides, frequent fumigation is
necessary, doing the work twice or thrice in
succession, and choosing a quiet time for the work.
Trees grown in cases will need a liberal supply of
moisture, and as soon as a good set is secured the
syringe should be used freely to keep red spider
at a distance and promote a free growth. The
damping overhead having been discontinued
during the flowering period must be resumed as

April 20, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

275

soon as a good set is secured. The trees also wil
require water, and as the fruits swell warm liquid
manure should be given. The temperature now
may range from 60° to 65° by day with 10° lower
at night. Air freely during bright sunshine, and
do not attempt any thinning of the fruit till the
growth is somewhat advanced.

Peaches in" cases. — Late trees in cases or those
merely given glass protection will now be flowering
freely. Plenty of air should be given during the
day, and there should be no lack of buds on well-
managed trees. In many cases the flowers will be
so thickly [jacked that it will benefit the trees to
remove badly placed flowers, thus giving the
more prominent ones room to expand freely.
Fertilising the flowers in light airy cases will not
now be necessary ; bees will do the work much
better. As regards thinning, my remarks apply
to vigorous trees and those overdone with bloom.
Fumigating must be well attended to, and it is
necessary to do the work as soon as the fruits
have set, as green or black fly soon cripples the
young shoots, and once the leaves get into a
curled state the fly is more difficult to get rid of,
the leaf protecting the enemy. Watering will be
necessary, and it is well to use water of the same
temperature as the house. Water thoroughly and
disbud as soon as the shoots are on the move,
doing a portion .of each tree daily.

G. Withers.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

HARDY FRUIT CULTURE.

In face of the magnificent fruit prospects no
doubt many will be watching the weather with
more than ordinary interest for the next few
weeks, especially those whose livelihood depends
in a great measure on the crops. So far the
weather has been in the grower's favour, as
trees| are much later than last year. At this
date (April 0) last spring all our Plum trees were
in full bloom, but even with warm weather the
flowers will not expand under another fortnight
this season, all of which makes spring frost less
dangerous. However, though we have an ad-
vantage in that respect, the severe winter and
late spring do not appear to have acted as a
check on the hatching of insect eggs, as I found
to-day the larvte of the winter moth just hatched
on Plum, Apple, and Pear trees in quantity,
and have commenced spraying with ] oz. of Paris
green to every 20 gallons of water. On Apple
trees aphides are appearing, and no time should
be lost in dealing with this pest while in its in-
fancy. Whatever insecticide is employed for
its destruction, I would strongly suggest apply-
ing it warm, as it is more effectual. Red spider
is alive on many Gooseberry bushes, and it will
be a good plan to spray them with a suitable
remedy early, taking care to force the liquid to
the underside of the foliage. In Raspberry
plantations the Raspberry - bud caterpillar
(Lampronia rubiella) is just commencing to
appear, the buds failing to grow or drooping.
If these buds are taken off, a small red grub
will be found in each. Hand-picking is the best
and most efficacious remedy at this season. A
whole host of injurious insects could be named
that the fruit grower has to fight against if he
means to make his calling a success, and I be-
lieve insect destruction is one of the most im-
portant items in hardy fruit culture. If we
could give the same amount of care and atten-
tion to fruit trees outside as given to those under
glass, what splendid results would be obtained.
Unfortunately, it is practically impossible to
do so in the great majority of gardens, as
the labour is totally inadequate to attempt
anything of this sort without neglecting
other work that must have attention if the

ordinary supply of vegetables, flowers, it c, is
to be kept going. In some few gardens, both
large and small, sufficient labour is provided
for all requirements that may arise, and in such
instances I would suggest bestowing extra care
and attention on a few trees of different kinds,
disbudding them just the same as if grown
under glass, stopping all shoots that appear
unduly strong, syringing them once or twice
daily, according to the state of the weather,
and liberally thinning out the fruit when it is
fairly set ; also supplying sufficient manure for
the full development of growth and fruit. By
giving the trees of any sort such good culture,
fruit will be produced of magnificent propor-
tions and remarkably fine in colour and flavour,
as proved by actual experience when I had
more time to attend to these details. In grow-
ing for market I question if it would pay to
bestow so much attention on the trees, as the
labour bill would be heavy in a large planta-
tion ; still I should not like to state that it
would be unprofitable, as I have sold Warner's
King wholesale at 2s. Od. per dozen fruits from
trees treated as mentioned above. But the
private grower is differently placed to the
market man, as he does not grow for profit,
but for his own use and pleasure, and expense
of production is a secondary matter. When this
is the case, I think nothing gives more pleasure
or interest to the owner than to see his fruit
daily developing into specimens infinitely supe-
rior to anything of the kind he can see else-
where. Xot only so, but the grower of such
fruit confers a benefit on the neighbourhood,
as he shows in a practical manner what can be
done in fruit growing by giving the trees high
culture, and he may be perfectly sure that
others will be stirred up to follow his good
example. We hear a great deal about over-
production, low prices, bad prospects for all
connected with the land and its cultivation,
but in spite of such pessimistic views there is
still money to be made by fruit growing if
conducted on proper lines. W. ti. C.

GRAPES FAILING TO SET.
In reading the remarks on this subject at page
193 I observe that " W. G. C." had a good set of
Muscats with the temperature at night as low as
45°. The question of low versus high temperatures
for Muscats or indeed any varieties of (irapes has
often been discussed, and as far as the evidence
has been forthcoming from the best sources, it has
told in favour of the higher temperatures. It
will be observed that in the case alluded to
the days were bright and favourable. If the
weather had been bad with little or no sunshine, the
low night temperature might have been disastrous.
I quite agree with " W. G. C."as to the importance
of having the roots in good condition ; that is of
primary importance, but it is not everything.
Our house of early Vines was in flower as early as
February this year, and I greatly fear if we had
been obliged to have the temperature so low as
45° as a minimum, that two varieties of Grapes
would have failed to set. These are Madrestield
Court Black Muscat and Venn's Muscat, which
is presumably merely Snow's Muscat or the still
older Black Muscat of Alexandria. The Buckland
Sweetwater and Black Hamburgh are both free-
setting varieties, but even with these I would be
afraid to trust their setting in such an exception-
ally low temperature. I kept the minimum
temperature well up to G5:, but there was not
much rise above this by day ; probably 70°
would be the average day temperature. The
atmospheric conditions have to be considered. A
dryish atmosphere is best, and once every day,
about noon or soon after, the bunches are gently
shaken, and the pollen is conveyed from the
Black Hamburgh variety to any others that are
known to be shy setters. My plan is to tie a

rabbit's tail to a stick and draw it over the
bunches of the Black Hamburgh. It comes off them
laden with pollen, and we merely touch the
bunches of say Snow's Muscat and Madresfield
Court Muscat with the fur of the rabbit. In some
cases a small globule of moisture is attached to
the stigmatic part of the flowers, and unless this
globule is dispersed, the pollen cannot touch
the stigma. The best way, or at least a good
way, to remove it is to draw the hand over the
bunches and also give them a gentle shake.
Of course, the condition of the Vines at the time
of setting has a good deal to do with success or
partial failure. My plan is to give the Vines a
thorough watering when the house is started,
and another good supply is given when the
bunches begin to open out, say a week previous to
flowering. This second watering will carry the
Vines into the stoning period, %vhen they "may
again be watered. How much water should we
apply to the Vines at one time ? is a question fre-
quently asked, just as people ask, '•How often
shall I water my Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, etc. ? "
In the case of the Vine border the question is
more easily answered. I give a border about 12
feet wide and 30 feet long about 300 gallons of
water, and at the time that I was a frequent
exhibitor of Grapes at the metropolitan and other
flower shows in May and June I used to heat a
copper of water, and as the water was being ap-
plied to the Grape Vines enough warm water was
added to heat it to a temperature of between 90°
and 100°. I have won first prizes with Muscats
in the last week in May, and I remember growing
twelve bunches of Buckland Sweetwater on one
rod, and every one of them was exhibited and all
won first prizes. This variety was planted at the
end of the early vinery, and close to the wall on
the other side was a large boiler which heated the
vinery in question and three other hothouses, so
that the furnace was seldom out summer or
winter. The berries on these bunches were quite
of a golden colour. This is evidence that the
artificial heating of Vine borders is sometimes
productive of good. It may be harmful if care is
not taken to apply much larger quantities of
water to the artificially heated border. As bear-
ing upon the setting of the fruit, I found that
there was no trouble with the Buckland Sweet-
water near the heated part of the border, but a
plant near the other end of the house would have
badly stoned berries sometimes. A dryish atmo-
sphere is essential to a good set of Grapes.

J. DOOGLAS.

Planting young Apple trees amongst old
ones. — How of ten even now do we see this error
committed, although not one single point can be ad-
vanced in its favour. In the first place the root-run
is generally impoverished by the older occupants
of the orchard, while their branches produce such
a dense shade that any young trees planted in the
intermediate spaces stand no chance whatever of
receiving light, air, or sun. Usually this kind of
planting is carried out when the old trees show
signs of exhaustion and decay. This being so, the
better way would be to sacrifice one-half of the
old trees, trench and enrich the soil by liberal
additions of loam and manure, and plant the
young trees. The other half might be retained
till these come into bearing, when it could like-
wise be renewed and replanted. At any rate,
planting young trees amongst old ones is a most
unpractical and unprofitable proceeding.— J. C.

A letter from Russia.— I have the pleasure
of sending you some scions of a species of Cherry
which is grown on its own roots and which is pro-
pagated and multiplied by means of its suckers.
It is unquestionably the best kind of Griotte
Cherry, and in the north of Russia, in the govern-
ment of Vladimir, and especially at Viazniki,
there are very extensive plantations of this species
alone. The fruit is fair-sized and red skinned and
the juice of it stains deeply. When quite ripo
the flesh is sugary and pleasantly acidulous, in
fact very agreeable to the taste. From it are
made preserves and very delicious liqueurs, and it

276

THE GARDEN.

[Ap^il 20, 1895.

is also eaten fresh from the tree, or dried, &c.
The tree grows to a medium height, is very
hardy, remarkably productive, and very con-
stantly so. When a tree appears to be worn out
it is cut down close to the ground, and of the
numerous shoots which are emitted from the
stump one of the strongest is selected and re-
tained, to be trained and grown as a bush or half
standard. The Cherry tree in question has many
synonyms, the commonest of which are Cerise
Vladimirskaja, C. Viaznikovskaja, and C. Rodi-
telera. — Leon Simirenxo.

Liquid manure for fruit trees during
winter. — Few persons appear to realise the benefit
that fruit trees derive from having their roots
thoroughly soaked during the winter with liquid
manure. Too much of this is allowed to run to
waste where there is a tank in connection with
the cowhouse or stable. Much good would be
done to all fruit tree9 over ten years planted by
soaking the ground well with liquid manure,
choosing a fairly dry time in February, March, or
even April. Apple trees cannot be renovated
more quickly or cheaply than by supplies of
liquid manure. From 50 to 100 gallons is not too
much to give to a tree that has been planted for
say fifteen years. — E. M.

EARLY PEARS.

The early Pears that ripen in August are not
very largely grown. They are soon past their
best, and at that time many other delightful
fruits are in season. If gathered and eaten at
the right moment, however, these early Pears
are delicious and refreshing. Their season may
be extended by gathering them at intervals,
and if stored a few days in a cool fruit room
their flavour is considerably improved, pro-
vided, of course, that gathering takes place a
little in advance of ripening.

Citron" des Carmes is a well-known early va-
riety, bearing abundant clusters of fruit after the
manner shown in the illustration here given. In
most seasons it bears freely, and succeeds either
as a pyramid or a standard. The fruit when ripe
is yellowish green in colour, and in forward sea-
sons may be gathered about the third week in
July.

Doyenne d'Ete is the earliest summer Pear,
ripening a few days in advance of the preceding.
It is of delicious quality if eaten at the proper
stage, but to secure it at its best the fruits must,
be gathered in advance of their ripening. If
allowed to hang upon the tree till quite ripe the
quality greatly deteriorates. The fruits are
smaller than those of Citron des Carmes, but
more yellow when ripe. It bears freely either in
standard or pyramid form.

Jargonelle is a popular early variety of much
larger size. Its flesh is sweet, melting, and very
juicy, the quality truly delicious. It is unsuit-
able for small gardens, not fruiting well as a
pyramid, but in the standard form or trained on
buildings with abundance of room for its spread-
ing branches it is decidedly the best early Pear
grown.

Forced Strawberry plants and exposure.

— It is often stated that, provided forced Straw-
berries are not exposed at the roots, they do
not take any harm. But I am inclined to think
we may carry this advice too far. This season a
lot of plants for forcing protected with ashes
did not break nearly so strongly as I could
wish ; the spikes were short and scarcely out of the
foliage, whereas the same variety placed in fruit
houses and not given much heat, only to keep
out frost, was all one could desire. Again, we
often see a very low temperature advised for young
plants, but much depends upon when it is given.
1 had a lot of plants just showing their bloom in
the centre of the plant, and through the break-
down of a boiler many have failed to fruit freely,
though the temperature they were in never went

lower than 40". Till this season I was under
the impression Strawberry plants were not so
particular as to exposure. Doubtless these, like
many others, do not like extremes ; and with
regard to the first failure, when one can house
the plants in cold fruit houses and keep well
supplied with moisture, one is more independent,
as he can get at them at any time. Failing
houses, cold frames with ample protecting ma-
terial are useful. — Forcer.

UNHEALTHY PEACH TREES.

Occasionally the most skilful Peach growers
are troubled with trees that suddenly become
unhealthy, the foliage assuming a pale green or
yellowish colour, the growth weakly and fol-
lowed by the fruit falling wholesale. What
makes the mystery greater is the fact that other
trees in the same house, or, if outside, on the

choking up the pores of the foliage after several
applications. When this was discovered the
tree was vigorously washed morning and evening
with chilled water, and a dressing of muriate of
potash given at the rate of 2 oza. to each square
yard of border as far as it was thought the
roots extended. The result of this treatment
was a rapid improvement in the health of the
tree, and before the end of the season it was as
vigorous as any other on the place and is now a
mass of bloom. Sulphate of iron at the rate of
a quarter of an ounce to the square yard has a
very good effect in bringing a healthy hue to the
trees on some soils, but is utterly useless here
on our light soil. Muriate of potash answers
better than any other remedy that I have tried.
Another enemy to Peach and Nectarine trees is
" blister," which usually attacks the foliage early
in the season. A low temperature and cold winds
are considered the principal cause of this dis-

Pear Citron des Carmes. From a photograph fent by Mr. McWalter, Armagh.

same wall, are perfectly healthy and everything
that the cultivator could wish. Several probable
causes have been mentioned from time to time
that are likely to produce such an effect on the
trees, but I think nothing really definite is
known. One cause I believe is the roots taking
up some element from the soil which, passing
into the sap, cannot be assimilated, thereby in-
juriously affecting the growth. It is also a fact
that such trees are the first to become infested
by insect pests and the efforts to oust the
enemies often produce a still further bad effect
on the trees. As a case in point, last year I
had a large tree outside of Hale's Early Peach
the foliage of which began to lose colour, and
directly this occurred aphis became very trouble-
some. A new insecticide that was highly recom-
mended was freely used to eradicate the foe, but
I believe if I had employed more clear water
and less insecticide the tree would have re-
covered sooner, as many of the leaves fell through
the oil or other substance in the insecticide

figurement to the trees, but I think there are
other causes, such as the fungus remaining dor-
mant on the trees for months, and again be-
coming active in the spring when fresh growth is
made. In proof of this, we see trees lifted from
outside walls and taken indoors become more or
less blistered for a year or two. Some trees
that I brought indoors last autumn have this
spring had a few leaves on each affected. This
was not caused by a low or fluctuating tem-
perature. Probably the old remedy of picking
off all the infested leaves and cutting away any
malformed shoots as soon as detected is still the
best, also spraying the trees thoroughly with
an insecticide that is known to destroy fungoid
attacks. Sulphide of potassium has always
acted admirably with me for checkingthe spread
of blister, mildew or any fungoid enemy on
Peach trees. Half an ounce dissolved in 1 gallon
of warm water is quite strong enough for the
worst cases. After using this preparation for
nine year3 I can strongly recommend it, but I

Apbil 20, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

277

should state that under glass care should be
exercised that none of the liquid falls on the
paint or woodwork, thereby staining and dis-
figuring it. In addition to-natural manures, I
may advise an application of superphosphate at
the rate of 2 nzs. to the square yard for either
inside or outside trees, giving a dressing now
and again as soon as trie fruit has been gathered.
This will do good on any soil, and materially
benefit the trees and their produce.

W. G. C.

GROS COLMAN GRAPES.
Under the best cultural management, on a suit-
able soil, and every advantage that may be deemed
desirable to grow this Grape well, it cannot be
termed a variety of rich flavour, and on some soils
and under conditions that other varieties like,
Gros Colman is of a very objectionable quality, the
disagreeable Ivy flavour being very pronounced —
so much in fact, that it has been rejected by gen-
tlemen as being unfit for their dessert tables.
There can be no question that soil exercises a
wonderful effect on this variety, that which is
light, porous, and of a sandy warm character be-
ing the best adapted to its requirements. On the
soil of the description mentioned I finds it suc-
ceeds splendidly, and many experts have stated
they never tasted the variety so free from the Ivy
taint, and I could mention other places where the
soil is similar having the same effect, particularly
Mr. Child's, of Croome Court Gardens, Worcester-
shire. For many years I have seen his exhibits
at Cheltenham and other shows, and although the
bunches were never large, the size of berry and
high finish I have never seen surpassed, not even
by Mr. Taylor, Alderman Chaffin's talented gar-
dener, at Bath, who always grows this Grape in
grand form, and whose soil is of the character
named. On the other hand, I have not seen
this Grape in perfect form when grown on a
close, heavy soil ; it may be that mortar rubble,
sand, or other materials have been employed to
render the compost suitable, the result has, so
far as I have seen, been disappointirfg. The crop
and size of bunch and berry may have left nothing
to be desired, but the colour has always been more
or less foxy and the flavour far from pleasant, in
spite of cultural skill second to none. Opinions
probably will never agree as to colour and quality
going together, but although many say that a red
berry is of quite as good a flavour as a deep black
one, I think those who make the assertion would
hesitate about doing so when referring to Gros
Colman. Every year I have a few bunches at one
end of the vinery devoted to this variety that fail
to finish up well, and which would furnish cause
for complaint if sent to my employer's table, or if
sold to the fruiterers who purchase our surplus
Grapes. And a further proof of the value of a
high finish is given by the fact of the annually in-
creased demand for such Grapes in spite of
increased competition and falling prices. To
get this Grape in the best possible order and
of superior flavour the Vines should be started at
the latest early in March, as unless the colouring
process is completed by the end of September it
is very doubtful if they will finish properly unless
October is a particularly bright and sunny month.
In our uncertain climate it would be folly to
start the Vines late on the expectation of a fine
October giving the desired colour, it being just
as likely to prove unfavourable as otherwise. On
the question of temperature a good deal of differ-
ence of opinion exists, some advocating a warm,
or, say, Muscat heat, and others a cooler tempe-
rature that would be suitable for Black Ham-
burghs or Alicantes. My practice is on the later
system, as obligation is no choice ; the Gros Col-
man house being the lowest and least supplied
with piping, a high temperature would be impos-
sible, but even if plenty of heat were available I
should not maintain a Muscat heat, a perfect
finish being obtained without it, and this also
means less expense in firing. It should be under-
stood that while not recommending a high tempe-

rature fire-heat could be dispensed with • in hot
weather ; on the contrary, I think it a great mis-
take to allow the fires to be out for days or weeks,
depending entirely upon natural heat. There can
be no doubt that a gentle heat in the pipes morn-
ing and evening is of material service by keep-
ing the atmosphere sweet and pleasant to the
Vines, also preventing great fluctuations of tem-
perature, which cause mildew, checks, and other
evils. Very often cases may be seen where a false
economy has been made in trying to save expense
in fuel, finding when too late that the extra cost
of fuel would have been money well spent. Ma-
nuring is another matter of more than ordinary
importance, which can only be settled by a close
attention to soil, subsoil, and a knowledge of the
constituents that are present or absent in the soil.
If the grower on a heavy soil were to feed his
Gros Colman or other drapes in the same manner
as another one that has to deal with a very light
one, the chances are that he would kill his Vines
with kindness. On our soil I apply stimulants in
a weak form every time the borders are watered
both summer and winter, but such a system
would prove injurious on heavy and badly drained
borders. G. C. R.

Books.

FERN GROWING.*

Fifty -three years of diligent research, as stated
in the preface, have led the author to come to the
conclusion that the great problem of Fern hy-
bridising had at last been clearly and definitely
solved by himself and by several of his pupils,
some of whom, unfortunately, are no more. Unless
one deliberately closes his eyes to the facts pub-
lished in connection with British Ferns, it is diffi-
cult in the presence of the numerous instances
stated by the veteran Fern grower, to whom we
are indebted for the production of so many beauti-
ful forms, to remain incredulous on the subject any
longer, for the experiments of which the records
are published leave very little doubt as to the suc-
cess of the operation repeated by him times without
number. Mr. E. J. Lowe states (p. 73) " that al-
together more than nine hundred experimental
sowings of spores have been made in forty years,"
so that his conclusions have not been drawn in any
way hastily.

If we take into consideration the comparatively
short space of time that has elapsed since the dis-
covery of the reproductive organs in Ferns by a
German botanist in 1834, it will be seen that the
work done by the author of "Fern Growing'' is
exceptionally interesting, for, not satisfied with
the publication of the results of his simple cross-
ings of varieties or even of species, he also largely
dwells on the possibility, nay, on the to him un-
doubted real effects produced by multiple crossing.
This theory consists in the impregnation of several
cells of one prothallus by the sperm of three, four
or even six varieties, and as an example he gives,
at page 64, the results of experiments having pro-
duced in some instances plants with two kinds of
fronds in which the characters of the six parents
were distinctly shown.

The experiments conducted by him with such
signal success appear to be conclusive, yet they
do not agree with similar ones carefully under-
taken by me ten years ago under the guidance of
Col. Jones, who narrowly for three years watched
the results of the operation. This consisted in
the sowing under his directions of four species and
one variety of North American and British Os-
mundas, and the result was thousands of seed-
lings, all of which when fully developed repre-
sented one of the five plants sown, but though
they were planted out and grown for three con-
secutive years, there was not the slightest varia-
tion observed among them. Yet, at p. 65, the

* "Fern Growing." By E. J. Lowe, F.R.S., F.L.S.
John C. Nimmo, 14, King William Street, Strand.

author, speaking of a series of experiments in
which four parents had been used, states that "In
these experiments no single individual was like
any one of the varieties that had been sown to-
gether." The experiment has since been repeated
by me, and has been, as before, attended with
negative results. These two experiments, and
others equally fruitless, having been worked on
hardy exotic Ferns do not, however, affect Mr.
Lowe's work, as I have had other opportunities of
testing the efficacy of the theory of simple cross-
ing, as stated in Lowe's "Fern Growing."

A very interesting operation and mode of pro-
pagation known as the sectioning or dividing of
the prothalli into several parts as a means of in-
creasing the seedlings is well described in this
remarkable work ; the same operation had already
been successfully performed when a note of it
appeared in The Garden of February 27, 1S86,
p. 192, but this was in connection with the raising
of Todeas only. Although dealing exclusively
with native species and varieties, "Fern Grow-
ing" is unquestionably a work of great merit,
full of established facts, clearly related, of useful
hints as to cultivation, propagation and hybridisa-
tion, and should be in the hands of all who take
any interest in that beautiful class of plants. It
is a most valuable addition to "Our Native
Ferns," " British and Exotic Ferns," &c, by the
same author, as the reading is clear, concise, and
well calculated to guide, encourage, and emulate
Fern growers in their endeavours to produce new
forms of British Ferns. The illustrations of
many of the hybrids raised by the author of
"Fern Growing" are numerous, and the whole
work reflects the greatest credit upon author and
publisher alike, and it is sincerely hoped that it
will receive at the hands of the public the atten-
tion which it really deserves. G. S.

WAYSIDE IRELAND.*
" Wayside Ireland " is the narrative of a trip
from Cork through Connemara, Achill Island, &c.
The author is not one of those who go from Dan
to Beersheba and say that " all is barren." He is
determined to be pleased, and he shows a keen
sense of humour in recounting all that he sees.
He chats with parsons, priests, peasants, "Re-
movables," and in the facial lines of these last, be
it said, he discovers a marked resemblance to the
humble "bog-trotter" of the soil. At Kilkee
from the railway carriage window he notes "great
huge blocks of Flag Iris and the Potato gardens
blue with wild Scabious " and Aster maritimus
quite at home, "one sheet of magenta." Cut,
dried, and sold by the gross in bunches for deco-
rative purposes, the French and Germans, he
thinks, would make money by it. Barren Hill
abounds in wild plants of great beauty ; Ferns of
all sorts and a blue Campanula in sheets of colour.
Corkscrew Hill, too, is a " perfect paradise of
wild gardening," and when you get down into
the valley at the Ballyvaughan side, the entire
aspect becomes so like the hills in the Holy
Land, the plains where poor Jacob guarded
his flock and had his vision of visions. Here
Fuchsia Riccartoni is seen in full bloom, and
"Hydrangeas quite blue from the iron in the soil.
Dahlias live out all winter and become huge
bushes of bloom." There are good oysters too.
On Achill he saw Parnassia palustris, Pinguicula,
quantities of Sedum and Saxifrage. The climate
of Achill Island is so mild, that Dahlias live out all
the winter at Dugort, the most northern portion,
andsoalsoFuchsiaRiccartoni,Veronicas,Escallonia
macrantha, &c. The book contains sixty-five
pages of readable matter, and should have a wide
circulation if only that it may perhaps induce the
searcher after natural beauty to visit a portion of
the Queen's dominions which has hitherto been
much neglected by tourists.

•"Wayside Ireland." By W. Baylor Hartland.
Second edition. Illustrated. Parcell and Co., Pat-
rick Street, Cork.

278

THE GARDEK

[April 20, 1895.

Stove and Greenhouse.

THE FRAGILE HAREBELL.
(campanula fragills.)

This is one of the most charming of all the
dwarf-growing members of the Bellflower
family, of which there are several others some
of which may possibly be hardier than that now
under notice. This Harebell is seen to far
better advantage as a basket plant or for
brackets above the line of sight than for grow-
ing in lower positions. I have grown it with
the best results for the latter purpose when
having to fill brackets outstanding from a wall
covered with glass overhead, but with open
sides, a groundwork of climbers covering the
wall itself. In its season it was here a most
effective feature. It also serves a good purpose
when used in quantity as marginal lines to large
basket arrangements or the stages of conserva-
tories, whereby the pots of other plants are con-
veniently hidden. As a window plant it is
grown extensively in some parts of the country,
finding equal favour with the humble cottager,
the well-to-do artisan, and those of high degree.
I recollect very well being shown on one oc-
casion some plants of this Harebell by the
gardener to a well-known family which were
attended to by the lady of the household. When
grown in a window it should be suspended no
lower than the upper half. More light will
thus fall upon it, this being essential to induce
it to flower more profusely. Its growths will
frequently reach far below the pot in which it
is growing, continuing a long time in flower. It
is a remarkably easy plant to propagate, division
in the early spring being the better method of
increase. In its culture the mistake that many
make is that of over-potting. A smaller-sized
pot with the soil made firmer will give the best
results. The compost should consist chiefly of
loam, with some pieces of lime rubble mixed
with it, likewise a little decomposed leaf soil if
available. A very fitting companion to this
Harebell is Campanula isophylla, or the Li-
gurian Harebell, a most profuse-flowering and
free-growing species. It has flowers somewhat
larger than the subject so well depicted in the
accompanying illustration. For rockwork out-
side in sunny spots both varieties can be relied
upon to give every satisfaction. Another good
old species is C. garganica, which is of closer
growth, having darker coloured flowers than
those of C. fragilis, which are of a soft shade of
pale blue. These dwarf Campanulas are all
natives of sunny Italy ; hence it is not well to
expose them entirely during our English winters.
Southron.

Agclepias curassavica. — Thi plant, which
is referred to on p. 244, succeeds in an ordinary
greenhouse temperature and is easily grown from
seed sown in gentle heat. If the seed is sown in
the early part of March, nice flowering plants can
be had the same year, as the growth is rapid.
Seed pods are freely borne, and when these
approach the ripening stage the woolly-like
covering over the seeds within the pods has a
quaint, yet pleasing appearance. — E. M.

Begonia Rajah..— The different fine-foliaged
Begonias, in the production of which B. Kex has
played so conspicuous a part, are, I think, more
grown than was the case a few years ago, and
among them there are now some very beautiful
forms, though most of the new varieties of this
section come from the Continent. To the lover of
B. Rex in its numerous forms the new B. Rajah
will have much to commend it, for it is a de-
cidedly pretty and very distinct Begonia, dense
and compact, yet free in growth, and is as suit-

able as B. Rex for planting on rockwork or in
similar positions. In this the major portion of
the leaf is of a decided brown hue, while the
course of the veins is marked with bright green.
The under sides of the leaves are of a dull red
colour. The surface of the leaf is somewhat
puckered between the veins. It was discovered
by Mr. H. M. Ridley, of the Botanic Hardens,
Singapore, and has through that gentleman been
introduced into this country. Being a native of
the tropics, it requires the temperature of a stove,
in which structure it will form a new and distinct
feature. This Begonia was shown in good condi-
tion at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society last August, when a first-class certificate
was awarded it. — H. P.

CALADIUMS.

The present - day culture of the Caladium
affords an immense contrast to that of twenty-
five or thirty years ago. Now we have a

temperature falls below 60° as an average, with
55° as the very lowest. With some growers it
has been a practice as the plants become shabby
to stand them out in vineries, so as to be clear
of them in the stove. The penalty, however,
has to be paid sooner or later ; one season they
may escape, but in the next they may possibly
be left too long when the cold nights come on.
No suspicion may be aroused until the follow-
ing spring, when the question of shaking out
for repotting is undertaken. If the bulbs be
then found rotten throughout, it may be put
down safely enough to the cold treatment during
the autumn. I prefer to lay them on their sides
under other stove plants when the pots are
large. Some amount of moisture will reach,
them in this way ; whereas if standing upright
the pots might catch too much for the good of
the bulbs. Another good plan — one which, all
things considered, is the best — is to shake the
bulbs out of the soil, clearing them carefully of

Campanula fragilis. From a photograph sent by Miss Burrowes,
Moreton House, Buckingham.

number of varieties which possess the greatest
diversity of colours in the richest possible
shades ; then we were confined to but a few
really good sorts, not many of which are now-
found in gardens.

Cultivation.
Caladiums are not in the slightest degree
difficult plants to cultivate. Heat and moisture
are the two chief essentials to success ; given
these, the rest of their treatment is easy. Where
many fail, however, is in the treatment of the
bulbs during the dormant period. More Cala-
diums have been lost by oversight at this time
than during all the rest of the year put together.
At no time, even when resting, should they be
outskle of the stove, whilst it is never desirable
to 1« them remain in any position where the

their old roots and removing at the same time
any decayed part round the base of the bulbs ;
then they should be covered with sand in seed-
pans. To keep them entirely dry even then is
a mistake ; an occasional watering should
be given to prevent the bulbs shrivelling.
Dry rot will at times set in under the
best of conditions, but it is greatly obviated
by the bulbs being plunged in sand and

i watered occasionally. When the bulbs have
been chilled, the decay is of a different charac-
ter, being of a soft or soapy nature. Most of
the Caladiums have been introduced from the
district of Para — land drained by the Amazon

J and only a few hundred miles south of the
equator. This fact at once speaks for itself as
to the necessity of warmth when at rest even,

April 20, 1895.]

THE GARDEN*

279

as it also does to the inadvisability of keeping
them too dry. Coming from the valley of the
Amazon points also (assuming that their habitat
is congenial to them) to the fact that alluvial
soil, rich in decaying vegetable matter, is
the proper soD to choose, or at least to
imitate as nearly as possible. In my own ex-
perience this has been borne out, for I find that
the best of leaf-soil with a little good loam and
road scrapings is as good a choice as can be made,
two-thirds of leaf soil to one of loam being a
good proportion. Faihng good loam I have
added old Mushroom bed manure with excellent
results. Firm potting is not needed, by this I
mean ramming of the soil ; all the work maybe
clone with the hands unless it be a large plant,
to which a shift is being given during its growth,
then a potting-stick may be useful, but it should
be used sparingly. It is far better to err on
the side of small pots than to go to the other
extreme, for Caladiums can be watered freely,
being gross feeding plants. I do not care for
artificial manures as stimulants, natural manures
being much better, liquid farmyard manure or
that made from good Peruvian guano being two
good selections. I have frequently watered
with the latter when the plants were infested
with fly at the base of the leaf-stalks, with good
results in exterminating this insect. Although
Caladiums enjoy moisture in the atmosphf-re as
well as at the roots, it is never advisable to wet
the foliage overhead with the syringe, more par-
ticularly if the water be hard ; it water-marks the
leaves in the same way that it does bunches of
Grapes. Shading is needful as the sun gains
power. After the middle of March it should be
the rule to shade from bright sunshine, but not
heavily, the ordinary shading of a stove being
sufficient at any time. The light- coloured va-
rieties are seen to better advantage when shaded
a little more than the others. When it is seen
that the growth is ceasing, then far less water
will be needed ; a warm pit from that time would
be a good place for them. Some kinds will
push up several flower-spathes after having
formed a leaf or two in the spring ; these should
be pulled out in good time. The time of start-
ing into growth can be regulated so as to suit
each case, but, on the whole, the month of
February is a good Btarting time. Starting iu
too much soil or, in other words, large pots, is
a great mistake.

Varieties.

The following may be taken as a good selection
of twenty-four kinds of various habits. To give
colours is scarcely needed, seeing that so many
catalogues give descriptive lists. As dwarf
kinds, C. argyrites, C. minus erubescens, C.
Souvenir de Para, and C. Ibis Rose are worthy
of all that can be said in their favour ; Mine.
Leon Say, Reine de Danmark, Raymond Le-
moinier, Comte de Germiny, John Laing, Mar-
quis F. dAlbertus, Mrs. H. Veitch, Mons.
Willaume, Mercedes d'Argent, LAutomne,
Comtesse de Brosse, Charlemagne, Cardinale,
La Lorraine, Lymington, Louis A. van Houtte,
Gaspard Crayer, Gliick, Triomphe de l'Exposi-
tion, and Caudidum, one of the best light-col-
oured varieties. G.

Impatiens Sultani. — If this is raised from
seed I do not see much good in sowing it before
March is tolerably advanced. If sown much
earlier the seed is apt to germinate badly and
the young plants will often come to a standstill
should the weather be very dull and cold in the
early stage of their growth. This very attrac-
tive Balsam is of quick growth, and as compara-
tively few care to have larger specimens than can
be produced in G-inch or 7-inch pots, there is not
the need for such early propagation as is the case

with plants of slower growth. In a temperature
of from 60" to 70° this Impatiens will make rapid
progress, a never-failing supply of warmth and
atmospheric moisture being the important factors
in its well-being. Cuttings strike with great
freedom at this season, this being the method of
increase generally followed. It is, however, ad-
visable to have a plant or two in small pots for
furnishing cuttings, larger specimens being apt
to damp off in winter. — J. C. B.

Notes of the Week.

Streptosolen Jamesoni is a plant, I fear, not
grown so extensively as it should be, for it is a
gem for late winter and early spring flowering —
a decidedly pretty combination of colours. The
flowers keep well when cut and used for indoor
decoration. It is of easy cultivation and will
flower at almost any season, but is, I think,
prettiest and most useful at the time named. —
J. R., The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlrh.

Bunch Primroses and the frost. — Hardy as
these are they suffered this year in our garden.
In a long border near my cottage, facing west,
many plants were killed, while those growing on a
north border have not suffered in the least, the leaf-
age being as good as last autumn. I note the com-
mon Primroses had all the foliage killed in many
places. Wallflowers are all killed, in borders and
on the stone walls round the abbey. — J. Crook.

Rhododendron Early Gem. — In spite of the
recent severe winter this Rhododendron about
three weeks ago was in full bloom in the Coombe
Wood nurseries of Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons,
and is still in flower. This shows how hardy the
shrub is, as many things have suffered greatly
through the prolonged severe frost. The purplish
colour of the flowers was very rich in contrast to
the deep green glossy leafage,

Hedera atropurpureaand the Forsythias-
— If one desires a pretty contrast of colour it can
be got by planting these two things together. A
few flower-laden shoots of the Forsythia spread-
ing over the deep purple, almost chocolate-
coloured leaves of the Ivy have a rich effect.
This variety of the Ivy is not often seen, but it
is very handsome, the leaves rich in colour and
the growth vigorous.

Rose Reine Marie Henriette. — In our gar-
den this Rose is not in the least injured. I planted
a big plant from a pot some two years ago on a
south wall. Last year it gave us some splendid
blooms, and it promises well for this year. It is
far hardier than many other Teas and climbing
kinds growing by its side. Catherine Mermet
and Yellow Banksian are sadly cut, while such
kinds as L'Ideal are killed to the ground. — J. C. ,
Forde Abbey.

Daphne Genkwa. — This, recently in bloom
in a cold house at Coombe Wood, is a delight-
ful shrub to force gently, as its clusters of
rich lilac, almost violet-coloured flowers are dis-
tinct from other things in bloom at this season,
and one desires as much change as possible in the
greenhouse plants in spring. The flowers are
fragrant, but not so much so as those of the
Mezereon. D. Genkwa was brought by Fortune
from Japan in 1S66, but it is comparatively rare.
When in the open it blooms usually at this time,
and should have a sheltered corner.

Magnolia stellata. — The late frost has in-
jured the evergreen Magnolias everywhere almost
without exception, and often to such an extent
that not a single green leaf is visible. But amidst
the wholesale destruction wrought among shrubs
by the exceptionally severe weather, Magnolia
stellata has escaped. In the nurseries of Messrs.
Veitch, Exeter, a specimen is just now in full
bloom, presenting a beautiful sight. Although
the plant is scarcely 4 feet in height, it is covered
with more than fifty large snow-white blossoms.
The plant is growing against a low wall with
a western aspect. That it is perfectly hardy

without such protection is proved by another
plant growing as a bush in a perfectly open and
exposed position at Newton Abbot. This also is in
full bloom at present, though it has not received
the slightest shelter of any kind. — F. W. M.

March rainfall in Wales. — I presume the
rainfall here (including snow) during March "beats
the record " for even this humid district, for out
ofthethirtyonedays we had but seven without rain
in measurable quantity, and most of them were dull
and sometimes foggy, so that the sunshine was almost
nil. The total rainfall forthemonth was 8"31 inches,
the greatest fall occurring on the '23rd, 1 "30 inches.
During the month we recorded rain exceeding an
inch on three days, viz., 19th LIS, 23rd 136, and
28th 1 03, so I think, taken altogether, we had
enough. — J. R. , Merioneth.

Persian Cyclamens at Farnham Royal. —
We recently noticed a very fine collection of
Persian Cyclamens in the nursery of Mr. James,
Farnham Royal, near Slough. The colours were
superb, especially the shades of crimson. A very
fine variety had rose-pink flowers, another white
flushed with pink, set off with a crimson base,
whilst in another case they were white, one of the
largest and purest white forms we have ever seen.
One sees so many objectionable magenta and
allied tones in the flowers of the Persian Cycla-
men, that it is delightful to see such care taken to
get the clearest and brightest selfs.

Notes from Baden-Baden.— One of the

prettiest sights in my garden is just now a bed of
Anemone blandascythinica. It comes from North
Kurdistan, and is distinct from the type and
blanda cypriana. One- tenth of the plants has
pale or sky blue flowers, nine-tenths are of tho
purest white. It is quite a treat to look at these
white stars. There are several forms of Muscari
azureum, M. a. Freynianum being the best. The
spikes are two to three times as large as in the
typical form, and of the same or even a brighter
turquoise-blue colour. A new FritiHary is very
striking. It grows 5 inches or 6 inch' s high, and
the flowers, as large as a hen's egg, are of a
deep claret-red, inside tessellated wnite. Iris
mesopotamica is a fine novelty. The flowers are
much like those of I. sindjarensis, but they are
broader, fuller, and of a pleasing milk-white colour
with a sulphur-yellow crest. — Max Leichtlin,
Baden-Baden,

Camellia reticulata. — It is unfortunate that
this fine Camellia is not more plentiful, for
although it was introduced about 18'20, it is only
to be found in a few places in England. We have
a fine plant on the conservatory wall. It has
been in bloom for some time, and will be for a
considerable time yet ; the flowers are semi-double,
large, over 7 inches across, of a glowing pinkish
crimson, and frilled. This Camellia is quite dis-
tinct from all the other singles or doubles, its
flowers being free from the stiff form of the single
cup-shaped or the double imbricated formal flower.
A large plant of this Camellia would be most
effective in |bush form if planted out in a large
house along with such as Donckelaari, the Old
Double White, and many more that could be
named of equal merit. Such a house would be
most attractive when the Camellias were in bloom
during the dull winter months, particularly in
such a winter as we have lately had. — A. Kemp,
Coolhurst, Horsham.

Forsythias.— The bright yellow of the flowers
of these Japanese shrubs, their profusion, and the
exceeding grace with which they are displayed
make the Forsythias amongst the most welcome
of all our spring flowering shrubs. There are
two species, F. suspensa (or Fortunei), F. viri-
dissima, and a hybrid between them called inter-
media. F. suspensa is the first to flower, and is
easily recognised by its lax habit. The hybrid
follows, and lastly viridissima, although so closely
that all three may be seen in flower at one time.
The last-named is a shrub of more sturdy, erect
habit. To get a fine eflect these Forsythias
should be planted in large masses and be given if
possible a background of some evergreen like the
Box or Holly. They can be struck from cuttings

280

THE GARDEN

TArRiL 20, 1895

or layers so freely, that it is very easy to obtain a
good stock.

Asparagus plumosus.— No better illustration
of the value of this species as a climbing plant can
be needed than that afforded at Mr. Iceton's nur-
sery, Putney Park lane. It is there grown in
large quantities, not only for cutting, but also for
the purpose of seeding, so as to meet the large
demand for seed, which is the only reliable mode
of increase other than by division. On a recent
visit I was greatly struck with the excessive
vigour of the plants, which are being grown in
borders rather than in pots. Several young shoots
were pushing up that were quite as large as the
average lead pencil. Mr. Iceton had for experi-
ment cooked some of these, and found them to
possess the true Asparagus flavour. In one house
the growths were so dense as to envelop the under
side in a complete shade. A temperate treat-
ment is found to answer well. Considering its
durability in a cut state, this Asparagus is not
even now grown in sufficiently large quantities;
of its utility there can be no manner of question.
-H. G.

Franciscea Hopeana.— It is not often that
one now meets with this species— an old one it is
quite true, but none the less welcome. I noted
it quite recently flowering in the stove show
house at Messrs. Veitch and Sons', Chelsea. Com-
pared with most of the Francisceas this variety
has smaller flowers, but this is more than com-
pensated for in their great profusion, extending
over a long season, one crop often succeeding
another in rapid succession upon the merest bit of
wood. The flowers, which are deliriously scented,
open at first of a light violet shade, gradually
fading away to pure white with age. In the more
favoured districts of the south this Franciscea may
be stood outside to mature its growths after com-
pletion of growth, then when again introduced
into warmth it will soon yield a crop of bloom.
Being a somewhat slow-growing plant, it remains
for a long time of a convenient size. In a cut
state it is .admirably suited for making button-
hole bouquets. It is also known under the specific
name of F. uniflora and is one of the oldest species
in cultivation. — J. Hudson.

Orchids from Edinburgh.— I am sending
you per this post a few blooms of Orchids. A
bloom of Cattleya which I send seems to be near
to C. intermedia, but it has this year a much
stronger bulb, more like that of C. amethysto-
glossa. It is 18 inches in length, with three
leaves, as against two in former years. The
larger bloom of Cattleya Trian.-e is rather over,
but the smaller, which is not quite developed,
being from a very small bulb, which ought not
to have been allowed to bloom, but was over-
looked, shows fairly well the colour of the larger
flower ; it is a very fair variety. I send three
vars. of Vanda tricolor, two vars. of V. insignis, V.
suavis Veitchi, Dendrobium Venus, D. japonicum,
two blooms of D. Ainsworthi, a few D. nobile
vars. and D. Wardianum, Cypripedium villosum
aureurn, Cattleya Skinneri, Odontoglossurn Rossi
majus varieties, 0. crispum, La?lia anceps, Cym-
bidium Lowianum, and Ccelogyne sparsa.— Hugh
James Hunter, Edinburgh.

*»* A beautiful gathering of Orchids, the
flowers carefully packed and fresh. The Cattleya
sent is C. intermedia. The flower of Cypripedium
villosum aureurn is that of a very fine variety.—
Ed.

Notes from Paris.— The season is very late
this year. Anemone nemorosa is coming into
bloom in the woods round about Paris. In the
St. Germain Forest the ground appears in the
distance as if covered with a white sheet of bloom.
Here and there some flowers of the blue Pul-
monaria officinalis are appearing. In the garden
Omphalodes verna is opening its Forget-menot-
hke blue flowers along with the yellow Doronicum
caucasicum. Primula denticulata and P. cor-
tusoides ameena are showing their first blooms.
These have not sufl'ered in the least from the
severe winter, although the thermometer in
February for several days registered as low as

20° centigrade. A plant of Aralia (Fatsia) japo-
nica, quite unprotected in the border and planted
out years since, had its leaves slightly injured by
frost and snow, but the wood is quite safe. It is
a general idea amongst gardeners here that these
Japan Aralias are not hardy. In the same border
I have a dozen plants of Musa Basjoo, the north
Japan Banana tree, a native of Hakodate, in the
isle of Yc/.o. These were planted out four years
ago and slightly protected in winter with dry
leaves. All of these are now starting into growth.
The Horse Chestnuts are unfolding their leaves
(April 15). — J. Sallibr.

Ehododendron arboreum.— The value of this
shrub for large conservatories and winter gardens
is by no means so fully taken advantage of as it
might be,' for there are few if any plants that
produce at this season so bright and glowing a
mass of colour as it does. In the typical form
the flowers, of a brilliant red, are produced in
rounded, cone-shaped trusses about 4 inches or 5
inches through, resting on a rosette-like whorl of
dark green leaves. It is, however, an extremely
variable species, and the different varieties have
flowers ranging in colour from the brilliant red
just mentioned to rose and pure white. One of
the best of the rosy-flowered varieties, nilagi-
ricum, has been figured in The Garden, July 20,
1889. There is, besides this, another variety
called limbatum, a fine specimen of which is
in bloom in the temperate house at Kew, and
which has flowers very similar to those of nilagi-
ricum, but its leaves, instead of being rusty
coloured beneath, are silvery grey. Where these
Rhododendrons cannot be grown out of doors (and
it is only in the south and south-western counties
that the climate is mild enough for that), a house
with sufficient fire-heat to maintain a temperature
above freezing point in the severest weather and
which is kept moist and well ventilated in summer
is best suited to them. R. arboreum is the oldest
Himalayan species in cultivation, having been in-
troduced in 1820.

Rhododendron fulgens. — The brightest
flowered of hardy shrubs at this season is unmis-
takably Rhododendron fulgens. Whilst the various
trees and shrubs belonging to the great rosaceous
family— the Plums, Almonds, Peaches, &c. — give
us whites and pinks in abundance, and the For-
sythias provide shining masses of yellow, the only
real red is this Rhododendron. In the dell
which at Kew is devoted to these shrubs there is
a plant of R. fulgens some 7 feet high. It rarely
misses flowering. That after such a winter as the
past it should be uninjured in foliage and now
have a flower-truss on almost every twig speaks
well for its hardiness, even though sheltered by
trees from north and east. The flowers are of a
rrch blood-red, each about 1§ inches across, and
the whole cor..pact, rounded truss 3 inches to
4 inches in diameter. The species is a native of
the Sikkim Himalayas at an altitude of 12,0U0 feet
to 14,000 feet, and Sir J. Hooker, who introduced
it in 1S51, says that it is "one of the richest orna-
ments of those inhospitable regions, the flowers
glowing like fire in the short hours of morn-
ing sunlight." In foliage it resembles R. cam-
panulatum, another Himalayan species also in
flower. In both instances the leaves are covered
beneath with a reddish felt; the flowers of R.
campanulatum, however, are white. Other Rho-
dodendrons in flower at Kew are dauricum,
purple ; Nobleanum, rosy red, and pnecox, pale
rosy purple.

Notes from Wales.- So wintry an aspect of
all vegetation in the middle of April in this dis-
trict is happily of rare occurrence. All plants are
wearing their winter garb ; consequently there is
but little bloom in the open. A few Rhododen-
drons of one variety only— supposed to be
Cunningham's White— are the most conspicuous
flowering objects on the place. Prunus Pissardi
is showing colour, a few varieties of Berberis are
just opening, and Andromeda floribunda has not
yet expanded. There is no Laurustinus, for
all the bloom buds were killed. Daffodils on
grass are developing, early and late varieties

having a neck andneck race, so all will be in
bloom together. Primroses and Polyanthuses, the
pretty wood Anemones and the modest Violets
combined add brightness and sweetness to our
sunny bankp, while patches of Andromeda axil-
laris are even now attractive. Our rocks
are still devoid of much floral beauty. A few
Erica carnea — whiteand pink — Daphne Mezereum.
a clump of Hepaticas here and there, mostly
triloba, Chionodoxas, an occasional sprig of Om-
phalodes verna, some of the earlier Saxifrages,
the old double yellow Wallflower — a rare
plant nowadays — and seme Anemones, exceed-
ingly bright, are about the sum total of flower-
ing plants thereon. Of damage done by the
extremely severe and prolonged winter, followed
by excessive rainfall, I hope to report on later,
when one can reckon the losses more accurately
than at present, for while the destructive easterly
winds now prevailing remain, it is risky to jump
at conclusions. — J. R. , Merioneth.

Royal Horticultural Society.— The next
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society will
be held in the Drill Hall, James Street, West-
minster, on Tuesday, April 23. In addition to the
society's ordinary show, the National Auricula
and Primula Society will hold its annual show. At
2.30 p.m. a conference on Primulas and Auriculas
will be held in the hall. Professor Michael Foster,
F.R.S. , has promised to preside, and the following
papers will be read : " New Primulas," by Mr.
J. G. Baker, F.R.S., &c. ; "Culture, Classifica-
tion, Sc. , of Primulas," by Mr. Selfe-Leonard ;
and " The Auricula," by Mr. J. Douglas. The
council will be glad of exhibits of as maDy
different natural species of Primula as possible.

Hardy fruit growing.— The council of the
Royal Horticultural Society of Great Britain offer
a prize of £10 for the best essay on " The Com-
mercial Aspect of Hardy Fruit Growing in the
United Kingdom." The essay, not to exceed 10,000
words, is to be sent under seal to the secretary
of the society, 117, A'ictoria Street, Westminster,
on or before August 1, 1S95, each essay to le
signed with a motto and the writer's real name
anel address enclosed in a sealed envelope bearing
the same motto outside, the prize essay to become
the sole property of the council of the society to
deal with in any way they may think fit. Unsuc-
cessful essays will be returned after October 1,
1895, on application, enclosing the necessary pos-
tage and the motto of the writer.

The weather in West Herts.— During the
past week the nights have been, as a rule, cold,
but on several days the temperature has risen
above the average for the time of year during the
warmest part of the day. On the 17th the highest
reading in shade was 64°, whereas on the night
preceding the 14th the exposed thermometer
showed 7° of frost. There was a slight fall of rain
on Tuesday night, otherwise this was a dry week.
There has been a capital recorel of sunshine during
the past eight days, the average duration for this
period amounting to nearly nine hours a day. A
Peach tree trained to a south wall in my garden
came first into blossom on the 4th, which is a week
later than its average date for the previous nine
years and thirty-one days later than last year.
The wood Anemone first flowered on the 10th inst.,
or eleven days later than in the same wood last
year. The swallow first made rts appearance at
the Watercress beds here on March 28— an un-
usually early date. — E. M., Berlchamsted.

Cobbett's Gardening. — Will any reader kindly
toll me tin- date of the first edition of this work ? — X.

The New Zealand Veronicas. — Will any
reader who grows the New Zealand Veronicas kindly
tell me bow they have fared after the past severe
winter? — 11.

Books received. — " Beeton's All About Gaiden-
ng." New and enlarged edition. "Fruit Growers'
association, Ontario," twenty-sixth annual report.
' Agricultural Gazette of New South Wales."

April 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

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VI

THE GARDEN

[April 27, 1895.

EI PLANT CATALOGUE ft for 1895

WM. CLIBRAN &

WILL BE PLEASED TO SEND THEIR

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STRAWBERRIES, Gooseberries, Currants, and all kinds
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Priced and abridged Catalogue free. Full Descriptive Cata
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JOHN WATKINS,

POMONA FARM NURSERIES, WITHINGTON, HEREFORD.

The best new and old varieties now ready for planting out
in all the classes. 31 Fir&t-class Certificates in 1894 awarded to
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to name. Carnation and Picotee seed, saved from best
named varieties, hand fertilised, 2s. to 3s. Od. per packet.
Auricula seed, only the best, Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per picket.
Fancy Primrose and Polyanthus, Is. to 2s. 6d. per packet.
Calceolaria seed (Douglas's best atrain), Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per
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Is. to 2s. 6d. packet, from 1st prize named varieties in 189.1-4,
R.B.S. Catalogue gratis and post free on application.— J as.
Douglas, Great Bookham, Surrey.

FERNS

SPECIALITY.

We have an immense Btock of all kinds of Ferns, Stove, Green-
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FERN NURSERIES, SALE, near MANCHESTER.

JAPANESE LILIES

Special reduced prices to clear an Immense

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CENUipE, PLUIV|P, WELL-RIPENED BULBS FRESH FROM Tr|E
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Japanese Drawings of Lilies in book form.
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SENT ON APPROVAL TO CUSTOMERS.

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WHOLESALE ,EED CATALOGUE.

We have now published our Wholesale Catalogue of

Vegetable and Flower Seeds

Containing also the best Novelties of the Season. MA Y
BE BAD ON APPLICATION. Any of our Customers
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Watkins &, Simpson,

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Seed and Trial Grounds — Feltham and Twickenham, Middlesex.

THE NEW STRAWBERRY. — Stevens'
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Solid fruit, good flavour, high perfume. Awarded First-class
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See Gardener.' Chronicle, March 2, Journal of R-.rtuvltare,
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Stock limited.— J. R. Stevens, Clayton Nursery, Hassocks.

Xj^ILL your Greenhouses, Gardens, &c. —

ILL

Richard Pannett, Florist, Chailey, Sussex, offers choic-
est Zonal Pelargoniums, double, single and Ivy-leaf , 100 cuttings
in 100 varieties, 8s. ; do. well rooted, 20s. per 100 varieties ;
Dahlias, well rooted, 12 choice varieties for 3s. ; 100 do. 20s.
See Catalogue also for Fuchsias.

THE GARDEN

281

No. IS 23. SATURDAY, April 27, 1895. Vol. XLVII

" This 1b an Art
Which does mci d Nature : change It rather ; but
Tfk Art itself ib Natdbf."— Ehaktsfian.

Orchids.

NOTES ON PHAL^ENOPSIDS.

The long cold winter has been very trjing to
Ihese beautiful Orchids, and the effect of the
low temperatures which prevailed is in many
places too apparent. Nothing is more annoying
than to grow a fine plant, to nurse it as care-
fully through the winter as circumstances per-
mit, only to find it in spring rapidly decreasing
in size by the loss of the lower leaves, yet this
is unfortunately the position of many growers
just now. Failures should have their advan-
tages as well as disadvantages, and may often
point out useful lessons for future guidance.
The present is a suitable time for a thorough
overhauling, cleaning, repotting or surfacing of
these Orchids, the temperature now being suffi-
ciently high to prevent checking the plants,
they also having the best of the growing season
before them. It is hardly necessary to say that,
unless it is absolutely unavoidable, Phalienopsids
ought not to be disturbed at the roots, but
baskets and cylinders will decay ; composts,
however carefully prepared, eventually lose that
sweet, open condition so necessary to the well-
being of the roots, and the cultivator must step
in to prevent the backward tendency that this
entails. The best way to provide a new rooting
medium for the plants and to transfer them to
it will be the first consideration. It has been
my experience that Phalsenopsids of the stronger
growing kinds, as P. amabilis and P. Schiller-
iana, transplant much better from pots or pans
than from baskets or cylinders, because of the
freer ramification of the roots among the drain-
age. A root tunning straight down the rod
of a cylinder for a foot or 15 inches is all very
well as long as the wood lasts, but when
the time arrives for moving the plants it
will be found very difficult to do so without
damaging them considerably. With pots or
pans, on the other hand, to matter how firmly
the roots have taken to the sides, we have
only to carefully break them, pick or wash
away all loose pieces of potsherds and dead
roots, while those with living roots clinging
to them may be placed in the new pots. This,
too, sounds easier to do than it will be found
in practice, but with care it may be done with-
out checking the plants. Against the use
of pots I have to urge the undoubted liking
ihat the roots of Phalrenopsids have for wood
and the length of time they live upon it.
Taking into consideration the rapidity with
which this decays in the hea,t and moisture of
the East India house, I am inclined to prefer
pots for thise more robust growing kinds,
using blocks and pans for the weaker grow-
ing Epecies. The pots used may be deep rather
than broad, those with perforated sides being
preferable, the free circulation of air about the
roots being conducive to their longevity. The
greatest care is needed in placing the plants in
their new pots to avoid bruising the roots, pot-
tery ballast being preferable to broken pots as
drainage for this reason. This maybe brought
right up to the base of the plants, kept higher
in the middle, and the plants secured as fitmly
as may be before putting the layer of Sphagnum
on. This must consist entirely of clean grow-
ing points and must be kept alive, being in this
state a capital index to the moisture in the pot.

In transferring plants from old to new baskets
even greater care and judgment are needed. The
first thing necessary is to wash away all the old
Moss and remove all the old crocks that can
easily be got at. A fine toothed saw such as is
used by carpenters for dove-tailing should be
used for severing the rods in as many places as
needed to pull the basket to pieces, avoiding
the roots where these are clinging to them.
Here the rods may have a thick strip cut off
with a sharp strong knife, making no attempt
to detach the roots, but placing the strips in the
new baskets, filling up around the base of the
plants with large pieces of charcoal, fixing so
that they cannot slip about, or the roots cannot
obtain a hold of the m. The mode of transferring
block plants hf s recently been referred to in The
Garden, and a little care in this operation is
amply repaid in the results attained. The
whole of the plants after being disturbed should
be subjected to a kiud of convalescent treat-
ment, a little more heat and shade being
afforded for a time and the plants kept in a
nice moist temperature. It is not advisable
to damp the foliage much, but a slight sprinkling
on bright days will be beneficial. A suitable
night temperature will now be C0° to 65°, rising
by fire-heat en dull days to 75°, by sun-heat
running up to 85°, increasing the air as the
plants re-establish themselves and inuring them
by degrees to a stronger light. If flower-spikes
appear before the plants have taken a hold of
their new home, it is a good plan to restrict the
number of flowers upon them, but not to en-
tirely remove the spikes, as this may possibly
cause secondary ones to be produced, the plants
being proportionately weakened. H. R.

Cypripedium selligerum atro-iubens. —
C. selligerum was raised in the nurseries of Messrs.
Veitch and Sons some seventeen or eighteen years
ago. C. selligerum atro-rubens, although not so
stately as the variety majus, is of grand form and,
as the name implies, of fine colour, the veining in
the dorsal sepal being rich rosy purple and the
petals also nicely suffused. The parents of this
variety are C. barbatum x C. philippinense. —
YV. H. G.

Lselio-Cattleya Pallas superba. — This beau-
tiful hybrid from Mr. T. Statter's collection is one
of exceptional merit. It is the result of crossing
La?lia crispa with Cattleya Dowiana. The sepals
and petals are both pale rose, the side lobes of the
lip being rather deeper in colour than the other
segments, whilst the large front lobe is be.iuti
fully crisped and of an intense rich violet-purple,
faintly veined in the throat with yellow. — W.

Odcmtog-lossum polyxanthum (Hardy's va-
riety).— This very beautiful and distinct variety
of this fine species was shown by the gentleman
whose name it bears at the recent meeting at the
Drill Hall. The sepals and petals are broadly
lanceolate, of a lemon-yellow ground colour, the
former blotched and the latter spotted with very
dark cinnamon-brown ; the lip is broad and flat,
of a chocolate colour, excepting a small space at
the base, and a fringe at the apex, both of which
are pure white. — W. H. G.

Cymbidium eburneum. — "W.," writing of
this beautiful Orchid at page 229, says it first
flowered in this country about seventeen years
a<*o. This is an error ; it was flowered in Messrs.
Loddiges' nursery in 1847 and was figured in the
Botanical Rerjisttr in that year. It flowered again
in the Hackney Nurseries the following year,
May, 1848, and a drawing was prepared from it
for the "Magazine of Botany." The plant was
introduced from the Khasya Hills in 1837 by
Griffiths, and therefore it did not flower for ten
years after its introduction. The first variety that
flowered had no spots, but varieties with the lip
more or less spotted are found in importations.
The temperature in which the plant ought to be
grown and its other cultural requirements are now

well understood, and when once the plant is well
established its culture is not at all difficult. It
will not thrive in peat, and although some good
growers use a little peat in the compost it is not
necessary. The main part of the potting material
should be good loam, although of this all kinds
are not suitable. That in which I have found it
do best is found on commons where the Brackens
thrive. Tough fibrous material, decayed suffi-
ciently to kill the grass, is what the plant delights
in. I have tried them with a third part of loam
to one of peat, and they have done equally well
in either. The use of Sphagnum with the com-
post may or may not be desirable ; it is certainly
not necessary. A good proportion of crocks is
certainly beneficial and has the effect of keeping
the compost open for two years. After that time
repotting is necessary.— J. Douolas.

Dendrobium Phalsenopsis Schrcederi-
anum. — With the increased temperature and light
this splendid species will be growing rapidly, pro-
ducing growths not only from the base of the
pseudo-bulbs, but also towards the tops. These
latter growths are very useful for propagating,
and young plants raised from them grow away with
great vigour when once established. If taken off
too soon, however, they are not always satisfac-
tory, and even if taken with a portion of the old
bulb attached— as, in fact, they should be, they
are often a long time before they make any head-
way. In a letter from a friend, who ib very suc-
cessful with Orchids and an enthusiast in their
culture, he says that he has had very good results
by placing small pans in juxtaposition to the new
growths, these being elevated for the purpose on
stakes or otherwise and filled with compost in the
ordinary way. This allows the growths to root
and establish themselves before being removed
from the parent bulb. The advantage will be
obvious to anyone, and I should say the results
would amply repay the little trouble involved.
It would possibly be necessary to enlarge the
holes in the bottom of the pans in order to pass
them over the bulbs and growths, this being pre-
ferable to splitting the pot, as in the old-fashioned
plan of ringing CrotonB and other plants. My
correspondent says the difference between plants
raised in this way and any other with which he is
acquainted is surprising, much time being saved,
as they are not checked in any way, but grow in
a perfectly natural manner from the first.— R.

Cattleya Lawrenceana. — This grand Cat-
tleya is one of the finest introductions of late
years. This plant produces its spikes of bloom
from March until May. The flowers are usually
of a rich rosy purple, the lip shaded with maroon-
purple ; there are, however, several lighter col-
oured varieties, but the darker forms are decidedly
the more beautiful. This superb Cattleya grows in
abundance in British Guiana at about 3000 feet
to 4000 feet altitude upon the branches of trees in
sheltered positions. — W.

Dendrobium capillipes.— On a recent visit
to Messrs. Lewis and Co.'s nursery at Southgate
I saw a fine example completely covered with
flowers deep golden yellow throughout, and pro-
duced singly and in pairs on peduncles that just
reach above the leaves. Thus a good-sized well-
flowered plant upon a raft, as was the specimen
referred to, has the appearance of a dense mass of
yellow colour. It is found in Moulmein, and was
imported about thirty years ago by Messrs. Low
and Co., of Clapton.— G.

Spathoglottis aurea. — Of the few spe-
cie« comprised in this genus, this is the most
useful and beautiful. It was introduced by
Messrs. Veitch some fifty-five years ago from
Mount Ophir, a mountain in Malacca, but it
appears to have been lost to cultivation or to
have become an exceedingly scarce plant, and
remained so until re-introduced about ten years
since by Mr. Sander, of St. Albans. Being
a terrestrial Orchid, it should be potted in a
good mixture of turfy loam, fibrous peit, and
silver sand, with the addition of some chopped
Sphagnum, plenty of drainage being given. This
plant should be grown in the East India house.

282

THE GARDEN

[Apeil 27, 1895.

The flowers are produced upon an erect scape,
from 2 feet to 3 feet high, and a succession is kept
up for several weeks. The individual blooms are
3 inches in diameter, the sepals and petals of a
bright canary-yellow, the former striped on the
outer surface with red ; the lip is also clear
yellow, streaked with chestnut-red and spotted
with the same colour on the basal portion. — H.

Cattleya Schrcederse. — This somewhat re-
sembles the popular C. Triana', and flowers about
t he same time. Mr. Joseph Broome, of Llandudno,
sends me some beautiful flowers, each measuring
fully 7 inches across, the colour very delicate,
whilst the orange-red throat of the lip is very pro-
nounced. An albino is also included, and although
this is the best white form I have yet seen of C.
Schroaderre, it cannot be called pure white, as there
is a decided tint of blush in the lip ; the bloom is
of tine size and good substance, with very broad
petals, the lip large, beautifully fimbriated, and
broadly expanded, with much less orange-yellow
in the throat than is found in the coloured varieties.
It is certainly a chaste and beautiful form. — W.

Cypripedium Morganise langleyense.—
Although C. Morganire is one of the very finest
hybrids in this genus that have yet been raised,
the variety langleyense is much superior to the
original form, asjmay be supposed, seeing that the
finest varieties of the parent plants have been used.
This is a cros9 between C. Stonei platytamiurn
and C. superbiens. This variety is superior to
the original in having larger, broader, and better
defined petals, and the whole flower is richer in
colour. This, like the type, was raised by Messrs.
Veitch and Sons, and I believe flowered for the
first time about twelve months ago.— G.

BARKERIAS.

There are but few species in this genus, which
was established by Knowles and Westcott.
Recent authorities have included them with
Epidendrums ; nevertheless, they are still known
in our gardens under the above name. It is a
pity that these plants are not more extensively
grown, for their requirements are few and they
do not occupy a great amount of space. Bar-
kerias are all natives of Central America, where
they grow- upon the branches of trees in
Mexico, Costa Rica and Guatemala. The best
way to treat them under cultivation is to place
them upon blocks of wood without any soil
round their roots. Many have failed with
Barkerias, owing to keeping them too dry and
giving too much heat, the most suitable tem-
per tire being similar to that maintained for
the Mexican Lrelias, where they can obtain a
plentiful supply of fresh air and sunshine, both
these being essential. Barkerias enjoy being
frequently syringed, and during the summer
months need very little or no fire heat. They
are compact-growing plants with slender pseudo-
bulbs, and being deciduous, lose their foliage
during the resting season, at which time very
iittle water will be required. The flowers, pro-
duced at different times during the year and
continuing a long time in perfection, are borne
"ii stems rising from the top of the bulbs. The
following are the most beautiful, and well merit
a place in every collection : —

B. ( x-CLOTELLA, a very pretty kind, introduced
from Mexico about fifteen or sixteen years ago, is
often classed as a variety of B. Lindleyana. It
blooms in the early months of the year, producing
terminal racemes of very showy flowers, each
measuring about 2 inches across. The sepals and
petals are of a bright magenta-purple, as is also
the lip, excepting the disc, which is white.

B. Center.*:.— A fine form and very showy, in-
troduced in 1S73 from Costa Rica by Messrs.
Veitch and Sons. The flowers of this plant often
measure quite 3 inches across, the sepals and petals
b3ing bright rose, the lip white, tipped with rich '

purple. The slender peduncle carries eighteen to
twenty flowers upon a raceme.

B. Barkeriola. — This is a very small-growing
species, not attaining more than about 3 inches in
height and not so attractive as many of the other
kinds. The peduncle bears three or four white
flowers, suffused with a lilac tint, the tip of the
lip being bright purple. This pretty little plant
was introduced by Mr. F. Sander, of St. Albans,
about 1884, and does better with rather cooler
treatment than most of the others.

B. elegans. — It was upon this plant that the
genus was founded, having been introduced to
cultivation by Mr. Barker in 1837 from Mexico.
Although the first kind known, it still remains
one of the best. For many years it remained a
very scarce plant. The flower-stems are each
about 18 inches long, terminating in a raceme of
five or six blooms, which individually measure
upwards of 2 inches across, the sepals and petals
rich purple, suffused with white ; the lip white,
with a large purple blotch on the front.

B. Lindleyana. — A very beautiful species,
often bearing from eighteen to two dozen flowers
upon a raceme. These, appearing about Septem-
ber and October, are rosy purple, the lip having
a large white disc. It is a very distinct and de-
sirable species, growing about a foot in height,
with leaves from 4 inches to 5 inches long. It
was discovered by Mr. Ure-Skinner in Costa
Rica, and first flowered in this country with Mr.
Bateman about fifty-five years ago.

B. melanocaulon. — This is a very distinct and
rare kind. The flowers, produced freely, are of a
rosy lilac colour, the lip having a blotch of green
in the centre, it appears to have first been seen
in bloom nearly fifty years ago, when it was
described by the late Prof. Reichenbach.

B. spectabilis. — One of the finest in the genus,
although known in our gardens for many years.
It flowered first in the gardens of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society at Chiswick in 1842, but is at the
present time seldom met with. The flowers are
3 inches or more across, of a rosy lilac colour, and
spotted with red. It is a native of Mexico and
Guatemala.

B. Skinneri. — This, at the present time a rare
plant, flowers during the winter months. It in-
habits the same countries as the preceding kind
at considerable altitudes, and was first sent home
by Mr. Ure-Skinner. The flowers, produced
freely, are bright rosy purple, excepting the lip,
which is orange-red, with streaks of yellow on the
disc.

Barkerias during late years appear to have
lost public favour, but they are certainly worth
the attention of cultivators, and those who have
the accommodation for the Mexican species of
Ladias should again take up their culture.

Wm. Hugh Gower.

Dendrobiumatro-violaceum(^«Afct/).— This,
I believe, has been in commerce for five or six years,
having been introduced by Messrs. Veitch and
Sons from New Guinea. It is a beautiful Dendrobe
and quite distinct from other kinds. The flowers
are produced on the leafless stems in pairs and
threes. The sepals and petals are greenish yellow
with deep purplish spots, and the lip is of a rich
purplish colour. It is a very beautiful species,
allied to D. macrophyllum, and requires strong heat
to grow it successfully. — W.

Odontoglossumtriumphans. — lam in receipt
of two forms of this fine Odontoglossum. That
from Mr. James Miller is of large size and beauti-
fully coloured, the sepals heavily blotched with deep
cinnamon-brown, the petals golden yellow, with
smaller blotches and bars of a similar shade to
those on the petals. The lip, white and finely
fringed, has a large square spot of a reddish brown
on the anterior portion, whilst the raised crest
is very prominent. The other flower sent by
"L. O. L." is similar, but the segments are not so
broad. This species is one of our finest cool house
kinds. It is very showy when in flower, produc-
ing an erect spike from 2 feet to 3 feet in length,

the individual blooms measuring 3 inches and
more across. It is a native of New Grenada, where
it grows at a considerable elevation on the moun-
tains.— W. G.

Angrascum Sanderianum.— I have recently
noticed this in several collections, and in some
instances quite small plants have carried a couple
of long, drooping spikes each with sixteen and
eighteen blooms. It is a native of the Comoro
Islands, and therefore enjoys strong heat under
cultivation. The plants are naturally small, the
narrowly oblong foliage not growing larger than
about 6 inches, whilst the spike often measures
three times that length. The pure white blossoms
are each an inch across, the slender spur, which is
also pure white, being upwards of 3 inches long.
This plant much resembles A. modestum, but is
distinguishable even when not in flower by having
larger and broader leaves.— G.

Ccelogyne lentiginosa (AMiy). — All the
kinds in this section produce their blooms on
pendulous racemes, and are therefore better
accommodated in shallow pans or wooden baskets,
so that they may be suspended from the roof.
This position not only suits their requirements by
enabling them to obtain as much light as possible,
but the flowers are seen to better advantage.
This plant, a native of Moulmein, has flowers
with straw-yellow sepals and petals, the lip being
yellowish brown, margined with white, the side
lobes also white, spotted with brown. — W.

Cypripedium Lindleyanum. — This is a
strong -growing plant, the leaves attaining a
length of 2 feet, and upwards of 3 inches broad.
From such strong growths one would expect a
fine large bloom, but this is not the case, for the
flowers do not measure more than about 2J inches
across, and are borne on very long scapes. These
are of a pale greenish colour, with red-brown
veins, the lip of a similar shade, but somewhat
darker. It succeeds well in a comparatively cool
temperature, and is a native of British Guiana,
where it is found at an elevation of about 6(100
feet.— G.

Cattleya Trianse at Southgate.— Amongst
a splendid lot of this useful spring flowering
Cattleya that is now quite gay in the nurseries
of Messrs. Lewis and Co., of Southgate, are some
very beautiful varieties, ranging in colour from
white to very deep purplish crimson. C. T.
splendens, a fine large flower of very rich colour,
especially the lip, which is beautifully frilled ;
C. T. alba, the delicate and chaste white variety,
having only the yellow on the disc ; C. T. plumosa,
C. T. Lewisiana, both exceedingly fine and
handsome; C. T. delicata, with white blooms of
good substance, slightly flushed with rose ; C. T.
quadricolor, also very distinct, with large orange
blotches in the throat, the front portion of the lip
very bright and margined with white, are worthy
of note. I noted also in flower some fine pieces of
Cypripedium callosum in good variety, C. Exul,
Lffilia harpophylla, Vanda tricolor Lewisiana,
very distinct, Odontoglossum Pescatorei, 0. cirr-
hosum, O. luteo-purpureum, Ada aurantiaca, &c.
— W. H. G.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Lselia purpurata.— I have a plant of Laelia pur-
purata in flower. It has three Hue blooms on one spike,
the centre one having four sepals and two perfect lips.
Is this unusual with this Orchid!'' — Gus. Trollii',
Rosebank, Cape Town.

Dendrobium Auguste Victoria.— This ap-
pears to be very free-flowering and grows to a good
height. The blooms are pure white, the lip prettily
veined with a pale violet hue, the sepals and petals
having a peculiar twist. It was introduced by Messrs.
Sander and Co., of St. Albans. — W.

Orchids from Trewyn. — I am sending you a
few more Orchids. Cattleya Mendeli I bought in lb92,
when imported. It is now showing eight sheaths, two
flowers from each shea' h. Dendrobium fimbriatum
oculatum, two flowers of whii-h I am sending, was
bought in March, 1890. It has always bloomed
well and is in tine flower at the present time. —
J. C. Williams.

April 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

283

WATER GARDEN IN NEW JERSEY. ; length and the leaf 42 inches in breadth. This
The illustration shows what we call over here ! was b/ 6 inches la,rSer than any leaf 1 had pre-
a remarkably fine plant of Victoria regia. \ vlouslv measured. In my opinion the N
This specimen had twenty leaves in different | ^^™ h
stages of growth above water, a fine flower and

two buds. The seed was started in the green-
house early in March. The plant was moved
to the outdoor pond about the middle of May,
from which time till July 4 it had the protec-
tion of a sash. The sash and frame were then
removed. The first flower opened July 14, and
was followed by thirty others in succession, the
last one opening October 4. Four flowers were
permitted to mature seed, yielding respectively
188, 458, 293, and 5C9 largo, plump, heavy seeds.
Unfortunately, three of the young leaves were
injured by a severe thunderstorm which passed
over this district a few days before the picture
was made. The nature of the damage shows
plainly on the edges of the leaves. Many of
the leaves were G feet in diameter, with rims 0
inches high. Will this plant compare favour-
ably with good specimens grown under glass in

grows, everything considered.
Clifton, New Jersey,

S. C. Nash.

Kitchen Garden

EARLY MILAN TURNIPS

Few can successfully force
glass, and in heavy clay soils many are afraid to
sow early, as the plant runs and much time is
wasted. The soil in most gardens this season
worked splendidly and there was no difficulty
in sowing in March for an early crop in the open,
so that with a scarcity of vegetables in spring a
few early dishes of Milan Turnips will prove
most acceptable. From several years' ex-
perience I have found the Milan varieties the

A ivater garden in New Jersey.

Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by Mr. S. C. Nash,
Clifton, New Jersey, U.S.A.

vegetables foice more readily. A few dishes of
forced Turnips during April are a welcome ad-
dition to the somewhat meagre supply of vege-
tables at this season. Too much heat at the
start must be avoided. I prefer to get the
bottom-heat from leaves, these giving a slow,
but moist heat, and the plants do not run to
top. Allow a free circulation of air by the top
ventilators or sashes. It is essential to sow
thinly and to make a firm bed to assist the
plants to bulb freely, as if the soil is too light
j the plants dry badly and make long useless
I roots. Moisture is important, and when the

Turnips under | t^l^v 8™?™* freeIy *¥? are .much ^e"
hted by liquid manure. It is surprising what a

lot of useful roots a good-sized three-light frame
will produce. Seed sown the first week in
February on a mild hotbed will give good roots
the middle of April. A depth of G inches of
soil is necessary, adding burnt wood ashes, bone-
meal, or decayed manure if at all stiff or clayey.

For early dishes from the open a warm
corner must be chosen. There are few better
materials than wood ashes, burnt garden
refuse, or the sittings from the potting
bench. The more rapid the early growth
the less danger of running, and in a light
porous soil one can feed freely when the
plants have made the third or rough
leaf. For outside culture I still rely
upon the Early Milan types. Last season
these varieties sown op a sheltered border
early in March were fit for use the third
week in May. Much can be done to
forward an early crop by using Bracken
or straw hurdles as a shelter at the start.
I do not shelter those sown in the open,
as the frame roots give us a supply till
the early crop on a warm border comes
in, but those who do not force may with
advantage give shelter in the early stages,
and a week or two may be gained by
sheltering with branches of Fir of any
kind to break the force of cold east
winds. For summer use I do not recom-
mend the above varieties ; there are
better, such as Snowball and Red Globe,
the value of the Milan being earliness.
If the weather at the end of May or
early in June be hot and dry, I find it
advisable to lift fully-grown roots and
lay them in soil in a cool border.

G. Wythes.

England ? I have often stood on leaves to satisfy
doubting visitors. The heaviest person I ever
photographed on an unsupported leaf weighed
174 lbs. ; add weight of rack (9 lbs. ) made of
laths, and placed on the top of the leaf to dis-
tribute the pressure and protect the web of the
leaf from the sharp shoe heels. The total weight
was in that case 183 lbs. I vouch for the ab-
solute accuracy of these statements.

I have nearly all the varieties of Nymphreas,
or have had them, both hardy and tender.
Some I have discarded as not worth bothering
with. The only one that proved too much for

best for early use, either for forcing under
glass or for a first crop in the open. For some
seasons previous to the advent of Early Milan I
grew the Early Munich , a purple top variety,
somewhat similar to the Purple Milan, but taking
a longer time to mature and not so good for
sowing under glass. Now there is a white
Milan variety, a counterpart of the purple
form, but even earlier. Sown under glass in
the last week in January the new white variety
was fit for table in ten weeks. Many may con-
sider ten weeks a long time, but we had during
that period several weeks of very severe

me was N. sphserocarpa (the Swedish Pink Lily), weather, so that it was impossible to open the
I have paid as high as 32s. for a small root of < frames, and the plants were a great portion of
this species or variety, but though I have tried the time in darkness. I find the Purple-topped

several times, I have not succeeded as yet.

Nelumbium speciosum does grandly here out
of doors. A neighbour of mine planted one
tuber of this in a natural pond (about ly acres
extent) in 1892. I visited this pond last year
in August, and do not hesitate to say there
were more than 1000 blooms and buds in sight.
At my request he cut the largest leaf we could
see. The stem measured 10 feet 6 inches in

Milan quite a week later, and in future I shall
depend upon the Early White for sowing under
glass, but its earliness may have been owing to
position of the beds, one variety having received
more warmth than the other. For crops in the
open these varieties may be relied upon not to
bolt like later kinds. Turnips do well forced
if due attention be given in the way of mois-
ture and a free circulation of air ; indeed, few

Tomato Ladybird. — I believe this
medium-sized, handsome fruited variety
will take a leading position generally. One grower
for market recently told me that he had a high
opinion of it, having grown it last season. He
preferred it to Hathaway's Excelsior, which had
been his sheet anchor for many years and always
sold well in the market. Ladybird is not only of
good shape and quality, but a prodigious cropper
also. — J. C.

Runner Beans. — These are rather uncertain
if sown early in the open ground, the seed being
so liable to rot. For an early picking the best
way is to sow in boxes or pans, as advised for
French Beans. If sown thinly and brought on in
a cool frame they transplant well and soon make
rapid progress. When planting a moderate 'hill
should be drawn out, this being filled with light,
friable soil, or if this cannot be done, some
of a similar compost should be placed on and
around the roots at planting time. Sutton's
Scarlet is a good early sort, having an especially
robust constitution and cropping well, the pods
remaining in eatable condition longer than in some
varieties. The old Scarlet for general use will still
hold its own, well-ripened seed of this variety not
being so liable to rot as the larger seeding sorts.
Veitch's Climbing is another excellent Bean, which
should be grown by everyone, Painted Lady or

284

THE GARDEN

[April 27, 1895.

York and Lancaster being capital for successional
sowings. As a rule the first week in May is soon
enough, even in warm sheltered gardens, for sow-
ing Runners in open quarters. Do not bury the
seed too deep, rather draw up a little soil round
the stems when the plants are a few inches high.
The climbing French Beans lately introduced are
most useful, especially where difficulty is expe-
rienced in obtaining tall stakes which are needed
for the ordinary Scarlet Runners. This new type
of Bean does not as a rule run higher than from
4 feet to 6 feet, ordinary Pea rods answering well
for supporting the haulm. Those who have not
given this new type of Bean a trial should by all
means do so. If these are sown at this date in the
open ground, I would advise forming slight ridges
and sowing therein in order to prevent the seed
from decaying. — J. C.

Potato Ringleader.— I think it was Mr.
Molyneux, of Swanmore Park, who, in replying to
notes of mine on early Potatoes last year, advised
me to give Ringleader a trial for early frame and
border work. I took the hint, and do not regret
it, as tubers planted in frames the second week in
February are now (the same date in April) afford-
ing good eatable Potatoes, this having been ac-
complished in anything but the best of weather.
Mr. Molyneux, if I remember correctly, placed it
before Sharpe's Victor for earliness and general
cropping, and I quite think he was warranted in
doing so. Sharpe's Victor will not succeed in all
soils. I tried it for two seasons both in frames
and on an early border, but the yield was so poor
that I did away with it. I fancy it requires a
somewhat strong soil. — J. C.

Sowing Peas in pots. — The advocates of
sowing the seed in pots and planting out the
seedlings when 4 inches high have so far the best
of the argument this season. For weeks the
ground was frost-bound when we should have
been sowing the early varieties. By doing so in
pots in a cool house the plants grew strongly, and
were ready to go out of doors into their permanent
quarters as early as the seed could safely be trans-
ferred to the soil. Thus a fortnight would be
gained, and that is of some consequence in the
matter of early Peas. I every year sow a good
batch of Duke of Albany in pots, keeping the
plants in a cool house or frame. In this way I
get good pickings of this Pea early in July. It
is not safe to sow seed of the large Marrowfat
varieties much before April, at leaBt in heavy,
cold, wet soil.— E. M.

Tomato Early Ruby. — This, one of the
newer varieties I tried last year, is quite distinct.
Last season was one of the worst on record for
Tomatoes in the open, and though I had some
half dozen kinds planted out, there was not
sufficient warmth to give a fair test. Under glass
this variety did well, the plants bearing enormous
crops. It is one of the most prolific varieties I
have grown. The fruits are nearly round, quite
smooth, and of a rich ruby-red colour, in large
clusters, many having ten to twelve fruits in a
bunch, and most of them above medium size.
The plants fruit freely (mite close to the pot or
soil, and for pots few varieties can equal the Early
Ruby. Plants raised in March had ripe fruit in
June.— S. H.

Profitable Cucumbers. — Varieties of Cucum-
bers are so numerous now-a-days that amateurs
and others are often puzzled to know which to
select from the long list which appears in the
seed catalogues. Probably where profit alone is
considered, a good strain of Telegraph is hard to
beat, but for private gardens where quantity is
not the sole object there are several other sorts of
great merit. For some years I have grown one
called Perpetual Bearer and can recommend it to
all who prefer a large, handsome Cucumber. It
is a capital bearer and, as its name implies, con-
tinues to fruit over a long period. Sutton's Prize-
winner is also a grand white-spined fruit of fine
symmetry and colour, and carrying a dense bloom.
Allan's Favourite finds favour with many, being
one of the best exhibition Cucumbers in cultiva-
tion. For general excellence that well-known

sort Tender and True would be hard to beat,
although it is not everyone who can grow it satis-
factorily, as it needs careful cultivation. Daniels'
Duke of Edinburgh, although, perhaps, a little
coarse, is a long, handsome fruit and a prodigious
cropper. The Duke is very suitable for frame
culture. The Rochford, a market variety now
being catalogued by some as a new Cucumber,
but which is not really so, it having been grown
by some firms in the neighbourhood of London
for some years, is just the sort for amateurs and
those who have little space at command, as it will
grow when pinched rigidly and fruit at every
joint. Of the Bmaller-fruited section, Lockie's
Perfection, Verdant Green, and Purley Park Hero
are amongst the best, while for winter work the
old Syon House is about the best when obtained
true. — J. C.

Savoy De Vertus. — Late Savoys are always
more useful than the early or small kinds, and in
few seasons have large growers who have good
quarters of late Savoys had better returns, as
during the severe frost in February Savoy Cab-
bages were plentiful. Savoys are often sown
much too early, as when they come into use in
September or October there is such a wealth of
Coleworts, Cauliflowers and other vegetables that
the Savoy is not so much valued. The variety
named De Vertus is well worth extended culture
on account of its good keeping qualities. It may
be termed an improved Drumhead. When sown
at the end of April or early in May and planted
out of the seed bed before the plants get drawn
or weak it is a splendid winter Cabbage. —
S. H. B.

Cottager's Kale.— Here this has stood the
winter better than any ; in fact it seems to stand
with impunity any kind of weather. By some
this Kale is looked upon as too common a vege-
table to grow, but our plants, over a yard high,
are giving abundance of succulent, mildly fla-
voured sprouts. The main point in the culture of
this and other Kales is to sow early and ensure a
free and strong growth by the end of September.
It is useless to expect the plants to be serviceable
in March and April if the growth is not com-
pleted by the time named. That which is made
later is immature, and therefore unfitted to with-
stand the frost. I never cut off the heads of the
plants until just before they begin to run to seed,
as these afford much protection during the winter.
— S. P.

Forcing Beetroot. — With the improved types
of Turnip-rooted Beet there is no difficulty in pro-
viding the table all the year round with roots of
first-rate quality. The stored roots at this season
will grow out and lose flavour, but a check may
be given by removing to a north border and cover-
ing with damp soil, thus keeping up a supply.
When there is a scarcity it generally occurs
through May, when the old roots are exhausted
and the newly sown will be some weeks before
they are fit for use. This may be overcome by
sowing a box of seed in heat in the same way as
Cauliflowers, pricking off when large enough
singly into 3-inch pots, growing in frames, and
when hardened off planting out on a sheltered
border at the end of April. The plants soon bulb
and are large enough for use in a short time. The
best varieties for this purpose are the Turnip-
rooted kinds. — G. W. S.

Dwarf Brussels" Sprouts. — Many large
growers do not care for dwarf Brussels Sprouts,
and I can fully understand the reason if they
supply the market, as size is everything. Fol-
iate use and for home consumption I certainly
advise a dwarf variety, as in our case this season
the taller kinds were quite killed ; whereas
dwarfer ones, though much browned, were sound
and gave a lot of sprouts. For late use I do not
advise early sowing ; April is quite soon enough.
The most important point in culture is ample
space in the seed-bed, planting out early before
the plants get drawn. If the plants of many of
the Brassica tribe were given more space in the
seed-bed and less delay in planting out, there
would be hardier plants. I am aware these crops

often follow Potatoes or other early vegetables,
and the ground is not vacant at the time. In
such cases it is well to thin or transplant, and
thus get strong plants. I will only name two
varieties, as they are the most reliable, being
dwarf, hardy, and valuable on account of their
mild flavour. My selection is Sutton's Dwarf
Gem and Paris Market, the former invaluable for
spring use, and the Paris Market for early winter.
Paris Market is much grown near Paris on account
of the earliness of its hard, bullet-like sprouts
and its compact growth, combined with good
flavour. Being a dwarf grower it may be planted
at '2 feet to 2J feet apart in the row. This latter
variety will supply the table from November till
February, when the Dwarf Gem will continue the
supply well into April. For earlier supplies,
those who require this vegetable may obtain
sprouts fit for table in September by sowing in a
frame and transplanting when ready. For early
use these dwarf growers are equally good, as they
soon mature and the sprouts are not so strong
when cooked. — G. Wythes.

Frame Cucumbers. — Plant3 raised in March
may now be planted out in frames, provided sub-
stantial linings are provided and the frames are
well covered at eventide. Of course a comfortable
bottom heat, the result of a bed of leaves well
trodden, is necessary, taking care not to plant
until all rank steam, if there be any, has dispersed.
Place the soil, which should be light and sustain-
ing, in a ridge in the frame some days before plant-
ing that it may become thoroughly warm. Make
the plants firm, water home with tepid water,
keep close until established, shading slightly if
flagging occurs, and air carefully for the next
month. Close early and syringe lightly on fine
afternoons. Amateurs and others who have no
means of raising their own plants can at this
season always procure them of local nurserymen
at moderate charges. Where seed has now to be
sown for frame plants, Duke of Edinburgh,
Lockie's Perfection, and Perpetual Bearer are all
first-rate sorts for the purpose. — C.

Dwarf Beans sown early— Many growers
who have a heavy clay soil are placed in an awk-
ward position in sowing seeds for early produce,
as, should the season be unfavourable, the crop is
much injured by cold in its early stages. To assist
the germination of the Bean warmth is necessary,
and even after the plants are above ground in wet,
clayey soils they frequently turn yellow and re-
fuse to grow, later sowings, with more warmth in
the soil, overtaking them. To assist early rooting
I have tried various ways. The best plan I found
was to throw out the crude or cold soil, making a
deep-shaped drill or trench, filling this entirely
with spent Mushroom manure, the drill being
several inches lower than the surrounding soil. In
this the seeds soon germinate, and once the plants
start into growth the manure greatly assists them.
— S. H. B.

Early Cauliflowers. —Having tried several
varieties for early summer use, I find Early Lon-
don one of the best. I always sow in the autumn,
sometimes wintering the plants in pots, and at
other times pricking them out in a frame, using
nothing but straw hurdles for winter protection
in the place of lights. Plants raised in the
autumn are much hardier than those obtained by
sowing in heat in February. The plants so
treated are now growing nicely on a west border.
Each was planted under protection, as it were, by
digging the soil out with a fork as planting pro-
ceeded, banking it upon the north side. Others
in deep drills between the Asparagus beds also
look promising. These autumn-sown plants are
not nearly so liable to be eaten off by slugs as
those of spring growth. — E. M.

Protecting early Potatoes. — Unless the
growths of early Potatoes are protected in some
way or other at night the probability is that they
wil"l be ruined. On open quarters I always use
9-inch or 10-inch flower-pots, these being stood
between the rows during the day. It is advisable
also to stop the holes in the bottom with clay, or
this cavity will admit sufficient frost to blacken

April 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

285

the tops. Dry Bracken or short Oat straw also
answers the purpose, although somewhat untidy
in appearance. I like to give protection as soon
as growth begins to force the soil in an upward
direction ; I am then on the safe side. The tender
haulm can be preserved from frost for a few days
—if other work is pressing— by drawing a slight
mound of soil over each stool with the hoe, but
partial protection is useless, and if once the first
growth falls a victim, no secondary growth can
produce tubers of a satisfactory character. — J. C.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

RIBSTON PIPPIN APPLE.

Probably no dessert Apple is so well known
as this old favourite and more universally
grown. Unfortunately, the tree is prone to
canker in all parts of the kingdom, aud many
able men have an idea that the variety is worn
out, and that it is only a question of time for it
to go out of cultivation. Several of these
pessimists who have seen our trees and the large
and beautifully coloured fruit they produce

branches, healthy appearance, and fine fruit.
Provided there is a free outlet for surplus
water and a fairly warm and good soil, I believe
that anyone may succeed in growing this splen-
did Apple to perfection. Where it fails under
such conditions, it proves that some consti-
tuent necessary for the growth and general
health of the trees is lacking. What that par-
ticular constituent may be can only be dis-
covered after a series of careful experi-
ments, and then applied as may be deemed
advisable. I would also suggest the application
of the wash mentioned during the winter, as I
think it exercises a powerful influence for good
on the trees. Another point worthy of increased
attention is the stock upon which Ribston Pip-
pin answers the best. Double grafting un-
doubtedly produces an excellent effect, employ-
ing a strong growing variety of the Warner's
King stamp as the stock. Some trees that I
saw on a strong soil in this county (Hereford-
shire) were wonderfully clean and healthy,
without a sign of any ailment. Probably much
more might with advantage be done in that
respect where the above variety is pretty much
:i failure now.

While advocating the growing of Ribston

Apple Ribston Pippin. From a photograph sent by Mr. Norman BlaJce, Bedford.

have altered their opinions, and I believe this
excellent Apple will continue to maintain its
popularity in the future in spite of its propensi-
ties to canker. The cause of canker is such a
debateable subject, that it will be unsafe to
enter into that matter now, but I have proved
that cankered trees of Ribston Pippin may be
practically cured of that disease, more espe-
cially if planted on a light, porous soil. About
six years ago I found canker setting in some-
what severely on about 200 trees, and I was
afraid our Ribstons were doomed ; the roots
were all near the surface, and so far as one
could see the trees (bush form) ought to suc-
ceed admirably. After experimenting with
various chemical manures to supply a missing
element in the soil, muriate of potash appeared
to have answered the requirements. At first
only 1J cwt. per acre was applied, but since
then double that quantity has been used with
the most pleasing results. In addition to this
fertiliser at the roots, each winter the trees
have been thoroughly washed with 1 lb. of
crude potash and 1 lb. of caustic soda dissolved
in 10 gallons of water. Since adopting the
above measures our Ribston Pippin trees have
formed new bark over the old'wounds, and, as a
rule, are remarkable for their bright clean

Pippin for home use, I should be sorry to
recommend it for market work, as it is too
uncertain. Though the trees may bloom most
profusely, it seldom occurs that a heavy crop
follows. My experience is that only a moderate
crop can be reckoned upon, and though the
fruit will realise a satisfactory price in the
London market, it will not realise anything like
the amount per acre that some of our large
cooking varieties will make. W. G. C.

The Apple blossom weevil. — I thought it
might interest you to know that the Apple blossom
weevil is now depositing eggs in the small un-
opened buds in enormous quantities. I have care-
fully examined several orchards lately and found
the major portion of the buds punctured and the
weevils continuing the process. If this is general
it will be a serious matter for fruit growers. —
S. T. Wrioht.

Chaumontel Pear.— On page 257 " Y. A. H."
appears surprised that I had a good word for the
flavour of the above variety, tf the promise on
our trees is realised this year, I shall have much
pleasure in sending " Y. A. fi." a dish for him to
test, and I think he will acknowledge the good
qualities of the fruit, unless we have a bad season
for their ripening. I believe " Y. A. H." was at
the Hereford fruit show last November, and if so

he probably noticed the splendid dish of Chau-
montel staged by Mr. Ward, Stoke Edith < lar-
dens, in his first prize collection of Pears. That
grower informed me they were from pyramid
trees, and, unless I am mistaken, also stated that
the flavour was always good. As Mr. Ward is a
reader of The Garden, perhaps he will kindly
correct me if in error. — W. G. C.

Protecting fruit blossoms. — This will now
need attention in most gardens, and as both Peach
and Apricot trees are scarce of flower in the
majority of places, extra trouble should be taken
to protect what there is from the ravages of frost.
Single fish netting is of little value as a frost-re-
sister, and when double it is not effectual if sharp
frost should occur immediately after rain. My
experience is that frigi-domo or tiffany is the only
safe material. If it is used of moderate thickness
only and sufficiently porous to admit sun and
light, it may be allowed to remain down in front of
the trees during the day as well as the night,
being kept from pressing against the blossoms
by means of stout poles let into the ground and
securely fixed at the top of the wall. Crops of
Pears are sometimes lost from want of a little pro-
tection. In unsheltered situations espaliers are
dillicult to protect, but much may be done towards
saving the bloom by fixing between the wires
small boughs of Yew or Spruce. — J. C.

CROPS OF G RAPES.

At the present time growers will be consider-
ing how many bunches they can leave on
their Vines with a certainty of their finishing
up well. Some are too anxious to secure a
heavy crop and leave so many bunches, that
the Vine is strained to its utmost power to per-
fect the crop, and very often it is unable to
accomplish such a feat, thus inflicting a great
injury to the Vine. The varieties of Grapes
are so different in their strength and produc-
tive powers, that what may be a fair average
crop on one kind would be an absolute failure
on another. Take White Frontignan as a case
in point ; if it were permitted to carry as heavy
a crop as Foster's Seedling or Golden Queen
will bear with ease, shanking would be practic-
ally certain to set in, and the berries that did
not shank would never have the finish and de-
licious Frontignan flavour which makes this
Grape so much appreciated in many places.
To get White Frontignan really first-class, I
think a crop at the rate of half a pound to each
foot run of rod is a fair weight with extra
strong Vines and a soil well adapted to the
variety. More might, perhaps, be obtained,
but even then I believe it best to keep near the
weight mentioned, thus avoiding any risks and
ensuring a similar crop annually. Lady Downe's
Seedling is another Grape that may easily be
overdone in cropping, and I have committed
errors with it on two occasions ; in each in-
stance the wood made was remarkably strong,
and great care had to be exercised in tying
down the sub-laterals. To check this gross
habit, I allowed an extra heavy crop to remain,
almost every lateral having a fair-sized bunch,
and some bunches of large size. Apparently
no harm was done, as the crop in each case
coloured up well, but later on the bunches
did not keep so well in the Grape room,
and the following spring the Vines started
irregularly and much weaker, with smaller
bunches. Supposing the Vines of Lady Downe's
Seedling are moderately vigorous and in good
health, 1 lb. of fruit per foot of rod is
sufficient, and those growers who expect to
have and try to secure the same weight from
it as from Black Alicante or Gros Colman are
courting failure. With respect to the two last-
named varieties, my experience is that no other
Grapes will produce such a heavy crop year

286

THE GARDEN.

[April 27, 1895.

after year. With the Vines in good health and
planted in a suitable border with the roots
thoroughly under the cultivator's control, strict
attention to feeding and other important details
being also given, Black Alicante and Gros Col-
nian will curry from 2 lbs. to 3 lbs. of Grapes
for each foot of lod. For market work they
pay better than any other Forts, and of late
years I have sold all out by Christmas. Muscat
Hamburgh, Madresfield Court, Mrs. Pince and
Lady Hutt should not be expected to bear more
than 1 lb. per foot of rod ; in fact, Muscat Ham-
burgh will be finer in berry, finish and flavour
if that weight is a little less, as it is always
somewhat uncertain in colouring up perfectly,
and if the weight is at all beyond the powers of
the Vines, a foxy hue is sure to be the result.
The. evil effects of overcropping Mrs. Pince have
been recently mentioned in The Garden, and
I need add no further remarks beyond stating
that my experience agrees with that of the
writer's. Muscat of Alexandria is undoubtedly
the king of white Grapes when well grown, but
to have it perfect in colour a very heavy crop
should be avoided. I have had Vines of this
variety in a house 15 feet wide that finished up
a crop well with an average of over 40 lbs. per
rod, but I found that the Grapes failed to keep
well in the Grape room after February, while
other Grapes of ihe same sort from Vines
not carrying more than half the weight were
plump and sound until the end of May. Some
of the most lovely coloured and largest berried
Muscats that I ever saw were staged in Edin-
burgh some years ago, and the grower informed
me that he attributed his splendid examples to
always allowing the laterals to be fruitless
between each bunch, or say a bunch on every
fourth lateral on each side of the rod. No
doubt many would consider the crop a light
one, but when such a system combined with
high cultural skill can produce Grapes of such
remarkable merit, it is worth while to give the
plan a fair trial. Mrs. Pearson was recently
figured in The Garden, and a well-deserved
recommendation given the variety. In addition
to the remarks then made it may be stated that,
with the exception of Foster's Seedling, I
believe no other white variety will produce so
heavy a crop of good Grapes year after year
as Mrs. Pearson. If the Vines are in robust
health, 2 lbs. per foot of rod will not distress
them or interfere with future crops provided
the feeding is sufficient for requirements. For
a longtime I considered Golden Queen the most
prolific of all white Grapes, but experience has
convinced me that it is bad policy to permit this
variety to bear more than 1^ lbs. per foot of
rod. In some seasons a heavier crop will come
out all that could be desired, but in others it
will be disastrous. Last year I had one Vine of
Golden Queen that was of extra strength, and
I left on a big crop of bunches, at least 2 lbs.
per foot ; everything went satisfactorily until the
last swelling, and then the berries became
marked with dark lines, or, as usually termed,
"muddy," and when ripe the flavour was very
inferior. The good old Black Hamburgh is often
overcropped, and it is astonishing that it stands
so much ill-usage so well.

Amateurs who only have a few Vines are es-
pecially prone to leave so many bunches on,
that it is a marvel the Vines do not utterly
break down under the strain. When the Vines
are very strong, 1J lbs. or 2 lbs. per foot can be
carried with safety, but with weaker Vines half
that weight will be ample. No one can state
exactly how many bunches or weight a Vine
may carry unless he is well acquainted with the
soil, feeding, and skill brought to bear upon
their cultivation, as one man may be able to

obtain as much as 4 lbs. per foot of rod of really
good Grapes by carefully allowing no wasted
energy and a judicious system of high manuring.
Another man who has equally as good vineries
and every facility for the growing of Grapes
will frequently fail to get 1 lb. of well-finished
Grapes per foot of rod through not taking care-
ful observation of the Vines' requirements, and
also going over the sub-laterals at regular inter-
vals, shortening back such growths wholesale
instead of removing all surplus shoots with the
finger and thumb immediately they are large
enough to pinch out. I am also a strong advo-
cate for the early removal of all bunches not
likely to remain to ripen on the Vines. For
many years I have cut off these surplus bunches
before the blooming period with gratifying re-
sults, and have never had cause to regret doing
so. W. G. C.

PEACH LEAVES DISEASED.

I enclose some Peach leaves, and hope you will
be able to tell me what is the matter with them
and whether the disease is likely to spread to
the other trees. — J. McC.

*** The leaves sent are not diseased — at least,
such is my opinion. In all probability only some
portion of the branches or, say, one side of the
tree is showing signs of debility, and if those
branches do not die outright this season they will
not long survive. It is the stems that are
affected, and it is owing to a deficiency of sap
that the leaves are changing to a sickly glaucous
hue, little or no further progress being made.
When large branches fail in the manner indicated
they may as well be cut out at once, as the fruit
on them will inevitably drop off. The decay of
bark and stem partakes somewhat of the form of
canker, and according as sap communication is
cut off from the roots the branches will fail.
Humming is sometimes responsible for these
occurrences, and strong sunshine pouring direct
on the stems is thought by some to injure the
bark, slow decay resulting ; while faulty stocks
are also blamed for some failures. Whether this
cankerous affection is the result of a bad bruise of
stem or sunburn I am unable to decide, and can
only advise cutting away all dead portions of
bark, neatly rounding off where sound, and then
coating with clay and manure to facilitate the
formation of fresh bark. In any case it is advis-
able to commence the preparation of a young tree
to take the place of that failing, taking care when
moving the former in the next or following
autumn to give it the benefit of quite fresh loamy
soil. Should the other trees give signs of be-
coming sickly, then there is most probably some-
thing seriously wrong at the roots, nothing short
of wholly lifting and replanting in fresh fibrous
loam to which bone-meal and " burn-bake" have
been added, using the latter most freely. This
lifting of trees should be done in the autumn
after the wood is well matured and before the
leaves have fallen. Peach and Nectarine trees
pay well for this treatment whether they are in a
sickly state or not. Some of the most successful
growers give their trees the benefit of a fresh
supply of loam every autumn. It should, per-
haps, be added that it is a good plan to screen
exposed stems from bright sunshine, enclosing
them in wooden boxes made to fit them, perhaps
answering best. — W. I.

Strawberry Royal Sovereign. — I am pleased
to see the note at p. 262 by " S. W. F." on the
above, as it so fully agrees with my own opinion as
to its merits for forcing and good cropping quali-
ties. As regards earliness, I am not able to place
it before Noble or Vicomtesse H. de Thury, as I
did not place the plants indoors at the same time.
From close observation I think it may be termed
a first early. The large firm fruits require time to
ripen if flavour is the first consideration. I find
the flavour excellent, brisk and refreshing. It is

a splendid cropper ; the flower trusses are thrown
well above the leaves, setting freely. When this
variety has been grown specially for early forcing,
the runners obtained from maiden plants, it will
doubtless prove one of the best early forcers we
have. I have not yet been able to give it the same
favourable treatment as some of the older kinds,
but intend to do eo in future. — W.

Feeding Gooseberry trees.— Few fruit trees
receive less manure than the Gooseberry, so many
other things require it, but even with a short
supply these trees well repay a little attention. I
prefer the spring months to any other time for
mulching, as there will then be, finer fruits and
less trouble with red spider. The Gooseberry
suffers badly from the pest named, but a good
mulch keeps the roots moist. A good dressing of
decayed manure — cow manure — is excellent for
light soils. We collect the strawy litter which
has done service in covering early crops and place
neatly over the surface under the trees, and
having plenty of liquid manure, this latter is
poured freely over the straw, which prevents it
running away and retains the moisture. This is
done twice a month. — S. B. M.

Fig trees. — It is only now that the full extent
of the frost and its bad effects can be seen on
Fig trees. In most instances they are in a sorry
plight. Even those trees that were protected by
Fir branches have all their young wood quite
killed ; other trees not protected not only have all
the young, but much of the old wood killed or
seriously injured. As all this dead or dying wood
absorbs sap to some degree from the tree, it will
be advisable to cut away all such portions at the
earliest possible date if not already done, thereby
preventing any waste of energy and also inducing
the back buds to start into growth more rapidly.
Of course no fruit can reasonably be expected this
year, but a good foundation for next season's crop
can be laid by ensuring an early growth that will
be well ripened by the time the foliage falls. —
W. G. C.

VINES NOT BREAKING.

Wili, you kindly tell me the cause of my Vines
not breaking 1 I took charge of them last summer.
They were covered with mealy bug, and the
Grapes were so dirty that they could not be made
use of. The shoots were very weak. The house
is used as a plant house as well as a vinery and
the border is outside. I scraped them rather
hard in winter, and scrubbed them with soft soap
and Gishurst compound. There are eight Vines
in the house ; four have started and four have not.
— W. J. Wright.

*„* If all the Vines had failed to start I should
have been disposed to blame the severe scraping
and dressing with soft soap and Gisburst com-
pound for the collapse. Many hard scraped rods,
however, annually receive a rather strong dress-
ing without apparently being greatly damaged
thereby, and we must look in some other direc-
tion for the destructive cause. Vines in a house
that has to be used during the winter for plant
growing do not, as a rule, get sufficient rest, a
weakly, irregular break resulting in most cases.
Keeping the house warm enough to exclude sharp
frosts for any great length of time is almost cer-
tain to excite the Vines into growth earlier than
desirable, and directly sap movement commences
that portion of the rods outside is very liable to
injury from frosts. They ought, therefore, to be
very carefully protected, not merely during the
winter, but till all danger from severe spring frosts
is past. It may be some of the stems were not so
well protected as the others, but of this W. J.
Wright ought to be the best judge, and I can
only write conjectural])'. Haybands put on a
year or more ago, or not very closely bound
together when used last autumn, would not
prove sufficient protection against such an extra
severe frost as we experienced in the winter, but
surrounding them with dry sawdust enclosed by
boxes would have saved them. If the outside
of the stems is split or burst, frost is to
blame, and nothing else. No amount of scrub-

Apbil 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

287

bing or dressing during the winter will wholly
rid the Vines of mealy bug, but if what few of the
latter that escape are hunted for and destroyed
during the early part of the growing season, the
cleansing will be complete. — W. I.

BEST STOCKS FOR VINES.
I am obliged to " W. G. C." and Mr. J. Crawford
for their answers to my query. No doubt I and,
perhaps, many others will greatly profit from
their kindly advice. As I have not got Black
Alicante I shall be obliged to graft Muscat Ham-
burgh upon the Muscat of Alexandria. Some
three or four years ago I planted two new vineries.
In the early house I planted Black Hamburgh,
Foster's Seedling, and Madresfield Court. When
I first saw a whole house devoted to Madresfield
Court 1 instantly fell in love with it. It was in
the year 1888 at The Dell Gardens of Baron
Schro?der where I saw it for the first time.

In the second house I planted Black Hamburgh,
Madresfield Court, and a few rods of Gros Colman.
The early house is just fit for the first thinning ;
the second house will be in flower in about two
weeks. Now allow me to tell you what have been
the results with Madresfield Court for the last
two years. In the early house the berries were
subject to cracking and never got their proper
colour. In the second house quite the reverse
happened, the bunches as well as the berries being
large, with no cracking and of good colour. Now
what is the matter with them, why do they behave
so differently? Mr. Barron tells us in his excellent
treatise upon the Vine that Madresfield Court is
an early Grape, best suited for early work and
requires less heat than Black Hamburgh. The
Vines are generally not subjected to a great
amount of heat with me, especially from the
colouring period onwards.

With Gros Colman I never have good results —
even in September the colour is quite foxy. Would
it be advisable to plant (iros Colman in the early
house, or is there any hope that it will do well in
the same house if grafted upon the Muscat of
Alexandria?

When I got home some five years ago from my
rambling abroad I at once adopted the English
system of pruning — I mean the spur system, or,
better still, the short spur system. Up to that
time everywhere in this country was followed the
long rod system, and here and there one hap-
pened to see a few rods pruned on the spur
system, but upon the long one. I confess as I
pruned my Vines to the first spurs I did it
hesitatingly, saying to myself, in England there
is another climate, probably more favourable to
this short pruning than with us in our cold
country. But, nevertheless, I did it — at least
on the permanent Vines, but on the temporary
ones I did not venture doing this.

Last year I pruned my permanent Vines, which
in the meantime had reached about two-thirds of
the rafter, quite close. Just then an old gardener
called upon me, looked over the pruned rods, and
said in an admonitory voice, "If you want to get
bunches, you must prune to two or three eyes, but
never so close as that.'' R. Katzer.

Pawlmml; near St. Petersburg.

Apple Pine-apple Russet. — I believe this
is a very old Herefordshire Apple, as a few old
trees are scattered about the country, but it
appears to be dying out. I have a few bush
trees, from which I annually have a few excellent
fruit, but after trying this variety in almost every
form of tree I have been unable to secure a good
crop. This year the prospects are superb, every
bush tree being covered with bold fruit buds, and
if the season is favourable an excellent crop should
be the result. Locally the variety is named the
Old Pomeroy, and is highly appreciated by those
acquainted with it for its earliness and rich
flavour. In its season (end of August and early
in September) no Apple is equal to it in this part

for flavour. If it would only be more productive,
few Apples would be more sought after. Old
standard trees make little growth and in the
summer the foliage assumes a yellow tinge, as if
in bad health ; but bush trees worked on the free
stock make plenty of strong shoots, with large,
dark-coloured foliage. It would be interesting to
know if this variety is more prolific in other places
or on a different soil to our light, hot one. —
W. G. C.

Tasmanian Apples. — These are arriving in
very good condition this year, and a portion of
the cargo of the ss. Cuzco, which brought 12,000
cases, was sold by auction, realising prices which
are said to be remunerative to the colonial fruit
growers, whilst they are decidedly satisfactory to
the London consumers. The excellent quality of
the Tasmanian Ribston, Cox's Orange, New York,
Sturmer, and King Pippins, and of the Scarlet
Pearmain, Alfriston, and Prince Alfred Apples
is widely recognised. They fetched from 9s. to
16s. per case, coming into competition with the
last of the Nova Scotian and Canadian Apples,
which are selling at l(is. to 20s. Were it not
for the introduction of Apples from the Anti-
podes, we should have difficulty in replenishing
the dessert dishes this year, as there are no
English-grown Apples to be had, last season
having proved disastrous. The Cape fruit, which
was obtainable for about a month, has almost
ceased to arrive, and no other source of supply
will be available until July, when Lisbon con-
signments are expected. Until then Tasmanian
Apples will practically have sole command of the
market.

THE MELON.

Early Melons have not come on so rapidly this
year as they usually do. I generally sow the seed
about the first week in January and the young
seedlings come on slowly during that month and
February ; but owing to the continuation of the
cold weather the plants made weak growth. There
is some difference of opinion as to the best treat-
ment of the plants until they are ready to plant
out. The young seedlings should be planted
singly into 3-inch pots as soon as the seed leaves
have grown to their full size, and the plants
should go into the soil almost as deep as the leaves.
Place the plants on inverted flower-pots up near to
the glass roof where they can obtain plenty of
light, which promotes a healthy growth and com-
pact habit. Re-pot them into 5-ineh or 6-inch pots
as soon as they are ready, and they may remain in
these until they are ready to plant out. The best
method of cultivating early Melons is to train the
growths to a trellis fixed about 10 inches from
the roof-glass. The best soil is good yellow loam
to which has been added a fourth part of decayed
manure. Tread or press this in firmly, and let
it be in the heated house a week or so before
planting out the Melon plants ; by that time the
bed of soil will be sufficiently heated, and the
plants should be put out about 3 feet apart. The
leading growth is trained up to the trellis, and
this ought not to be stopped before it has grown
to within 18 inches or so of the top. Melons do
not require, nor do they thrive so well in rich
open composts as Cucumbers, but the soil ought
to be moderately rich and the bed made firm.
The plants do not require a very large space
for the roots to run into. A bed about 2 feet
wide and 18 inches deep will be quite sufficient
with ample drainage. The base of the trellis need
not be very much above the bed of soil. Four to
six fruits are a sufficient number to grow upon a
plant, and the female blossoms should all be open
about one time, say within twenty-four or thirty-
six hours of each other. If two or three fruits get
a few days' start there is little chance for those that
come later. I remember once having to plant
a house of Melons where the base of the trellis was
over 3 feet above the bed, but I happened to
have some 2-feet glazed tiles about 12 inches in
diameter, and I filled these with good compost

and placed them on the bed of soil. The Melon
plants were planted in the tiles, the roots ran
down into the bed, and I had a most satisfactory
crop of fruit. The only trouble there is with
Melon plants is their tendency to damp off at the
neck and the liability of the plants to the attacks
of red spider, which is a most troublesome pest,
but it can be kept down by daily syringings.

J. Douglas.

Strawberries and the frost.— I was as sur-
prised as sorry to read Mr. Wythes's note on the
unsatisfactory condition of Strawberries in the
open quarters at Syon. Here in South Notts the
plants, though slightly injured, do not appear
to be at all crippled. There is on all varieties
in our garden plenty of old foliage in a green
state, while new crowns and leaves are abundant.
I am glad to find the Gunton Park seedlings
have stood the winter as well as any. This fact
strengthens my opinion that these fine Straw-
berries are destined to become popular market
varieties. Some of the newly-raised sorts are all
very well in warm, sheltered gardens, but in open
fields and ordinary market gardens they are use-
less. Coupled with a good constitution, the Gun-
ton seedlings, Lord Suffield, Gunton Park and
Empress of India, possess the vejry finest flavour.
We are getting some unwelcome frosts now, and
should these continue a short time longer the
flowers on the earliest kinds will be injured, if not
destroyed. What makes one more fearful is the
remembrance of the terrible frost of the middle of
May last year. In regard to mulching Straw-
berries in the autumn, I have great faith in
the practice, provided short littery material is
used. This may be saturated with urine, the
strength of which will be washed down to the
roots during winter and greatly benefit the crop
the following year. Using very rotten manure is,
I consider, a mistake, especially on soils which
are not of the warmest character, as the manure
becomes wet and then frozen, this ruining many
of the surface roots, which, of course, are the best.
— J. Crawford.

Peach buds dropping. — At page 193 I set
down what I believed to be the reason of Peach
trees dropping their buds. I believe that in many
instances bud-dropping is the effect of the causes
I have given. That there may be other reasons,
I am quite ready to admit. " Peach Grower" and
" Wiltshire Gardener" (page 257) give evidence in
their writing of being skilful gardeners and have
full knowledge of the cultural requirements of their
trees. They tell us the young growths have been
well thinned out, theleaves kept cleanand free from
aphis or red spider, and the borders well watered.
Borders may be too well watered if Chrysan-
themum plants are set upon them for two or
three months at mid-winter. It may be well
to seek for the evil in the constitution of the
variety, and I recollect a case in point. Some
twenty-five years ago I was an enthusiast in
orchard house culture, especially the culture of
Peaches and Nectarines. I must have grown
some fifty or sixty varieties and proved them.
Amongst others I had a yellow-fleshed variety
named Exquisite which bore six fruits the third
year from the bud, and these six were good
enough to win a first prize against fifty-three com-
petitors early in September. Some of my garden-
ing friends planted it out in their I'each houses,
and I do not know any of them who did not regret
doing so, and for one reason only: the blossoms
did not set well, and the fruit when it was ob-
tained, though large, was not first rate as regards
flavour from the planted-out trees. I must say
that in the orchard house I had little or no trouble
with buds dropping. I found Early Grosse Mig-
nonne to be a very free setter, as "Peach Grower"
has done, and the true variety is an excellent
Peach. Hale's Early is an excellent early Peach
with which I had no trouble, nor had I any
trouble with the American variety Alexander or
with the very early varieties raised by Mr. Rivers,
of which I thought Early Rivers was the best. —
J. Douglas.

288

THE GARDEN

[April 27, 1895.

Trees and Shrubs.

CARPENTERTA CALIFORNICA.

Kindly allow just a word of explanation. I
imagined from what Mr. "Miles wrote to you
that, under some special process of Mr. Smith's,
Carpenteria califomica was doing quite well in
his hands, and I wanted to know what it was,
but I now find from a letter he has been so good
as to send me that Mr. Smith's advice was re-
lating to something else. From what Mr. Miles
says, I should fancy that his shrub and mine are
in very much the same plight, and that there
was little more to be done for them than what
they have had at our hands. But what a differ-
ence does this reveal between the state of things
at this time and what it was a year ago ! Then
Carpenteria califomica was apparently happy
enough and on the straight road to present us
in early summer with a most glorious picture.
Now it is certainly alive— though I was afraid
to say as much as that of it at first — but there
is no chance of its blossoming this season.

Of course, what Canon Ellacombe says about
serviceable precautions in winter is quite cor-
rect, and many are the hints he has given me
about shrubs, etc., during the last twenty-five
years, but on one point in his letter I cannot
quite rest in the conclusion to which he has
come. It is a very easy thing to say that such
and such a plant is short-lived, and therefore
its disappearance cannot be helped, there is no
cause for regretfulness ; but how can my old
friend be quite so certain that he is right i In
very many cases of this sort I should dissent
from his dictum altogether, and if a post-
mortem examination were to be held after the
decease of some favourite flower or shrub, I
should often want, if I were a juror, to bring
in a verdict of culpable planticide rather than
that of death from merely natural causes. I
will give an instance in point. Fremontia
califomica has the reputation of being very
short-lived, and I have been myself told as
much. For all I know to the contrary the sad
experience which I had with it in the year 1893
may have been cited in proof of it. But that
is far from being the way in which I should look
at the matter. I reproached myself at the time,
and I reproach myself still, for letting the most
glorious specimen in the whole country slip
through my hands as it did. It died here from
sunstroke, and if I had been aware of its danger,
as I might, and as I think I ought to have been
at the time, it would be alive now. So also I am
persuaded it is with very many other things
which are reputedly short-lived — they are mis-
managed, and then we say to ourselves when
the worst has come to the worst, it is all very
natural. Because of this I prefer to ask
questions right and left, and I feel sure that
good must result from it. If my garden wall
had been painted white at the back of Fre-
montia califomica, and if a few handfuls of straw
had been tied round the main trunk of the tree,
it would have been perfectly happy in all the
heat and glare. The omission to do this I put
at my own door, and it cost me the finest thing
in my garden. The death must be assigned to
preventible causes.

Since writing to you the other day I have
noticed two more survivals, which are of very
great interest to me. Crinodendron Hookeri
(which I raised from a cutting given to me at
Bitton) has apparently pulled through this
hard winter, though of course it is cut up a
good deal, and Rosa gigantea (which was given
to me at Kew as a very questionable thing in
point of hardiness; is in exactly the same case.
The judgment of one of the best gardeners in

the Isle of Wight— Mr. Smith, of Appley— coin-
cides with my own on this head, and if I can
make these two things do well— and they can-
not have worse terrors to go through in the
future than they have already met with in the
past— it will go far to compensate me for some
great disappointments.

But it is perfectly certain that the Isle of
Wight is hit now as it has scarcely ever been
before in our time. It will take two years for
my rock garden to be again at the point at
which it stood last autumn, and only a few days
ago a young man who seemed to know what he
was talking about told me that he had been
wandering a good deal over different counties
of England during the last few weeks, and he
never saw anywhere such marks of the desolat-
ing frost as he found here. The reason for it I
take to be this. We have been accustomed to
think that we never could have any great cold
in these parts, and therefore when it did come
we were vulnerable in all sorts of ways, and we
were quite at its mercy. But some things have
gained when many others have suffered. It is
a true saying that what is meat to one person
may be poison for another. Never, so far as I
can remember, has Magnolia conspicua looked
more promising than it does now, and instead
of being nipped and injured, as is so frequently
the case, it will in a few days' time be a perfect
picture of the most unsullied white. I have a
Magnolia of this sort which must be about 12
feet high, I should say, and near it stands an-
other of still greater size. I refer to Magnolia
grandiflora, of which I am very fond. But
what a difference do their cases present ! Mag-
nolia grandiflora is literally browned from head
to foot ; it is just as though the hand of " chill
October " were on it still, and the ground is
littered with the falling leaves. Very soon, I
suppose, the branches, which are usually
covered with thick glossy green leaves, will be
bare and naked under a summer sun. The one
of these two Magnolias is a sort of representa-
tive at this moment of radiant happiness. Being
deciduous, it gave no point of attack to the de-
solating wind and the biting frost. The other is a
kind of symbol of disappointment and sorrow ;
it went on merrily at first and took things un-
concernedly as they came, but it has had to
pay a penalty of a grievous sort. The winter
of 1894-5 has given the worst possible turn to
the one of these two trees and the very best
turn to the other. We must in a garden take
the bad with the good and be thankful that
things are with us as they are.

Henry Ewbank.
St. John's, Ryde, Isle of Wight.

P.S. — It occurs to me to mention that Shortia
galacifolia has been very indifferent to the
ordeal we have had during the last winter.
Four or five large plants here have been beau-
tifully in blossom in the open air for a month

appearance it looks as if it might have been raised
from a seed borne by the tree that good Queen
Bess is said to have planted, but it can hardly
be the original. There is also a Yew which Lord
Clive is credited with planting ; «lso a very hand-
some Tulip tree and a splendid group of Limes
which tradition has associated with Pitt and Fox.
The Duke of Wellington planted here a cutting
from the Willow by the grave of Napoleon at St.
Helena, which lived till shortly after Earl Gran-
ville became Lord Warden. The tree in question
stood in the garden, and there is a Willow in the
moat that is said to have been a cutting from it.
Lord Granville planted in 1887 a cutting from a
Willow planted at Tully Allan by the Comte de
Flahault, who had accompanied the Emperor in
most of hie compaigns and attempted to go with
his fallen master in his exile. He was afterwards
ambassador to Vienna and London. The clumps
of trees in the meadow, as well as those on the
beach in front of the castle grounds, were planted
by Earl Granville.— W. T. B.

Buddleia globosa. — At Send Hulm, near
Woking, a very large specimen of this showy
flowering shrub has been entirely killed by the
frost. This had evidently braved many severe
winters, and its inability to live through the late
protracted hard weather is one more proof that
even in very sheltered positions plants and trees
have suffered to an unusual extent. In the same
neighbourhood I observed a well-balanced symme-
trical Cedrus Deodara, about 20 feet high, had the
northern side browned as if it had been burnt by
fire. As the sun gains power we shall no doubt
find many instances like this of damage done by
frost.— S.

Bambusa aurea. — I never saw this grow so
luxuriantly as at Send Hulm, Woking. Owing to
the late hard winter, the leaves look the reverse
of green, of course, but what struck me was the
great length to which the sucker-like canes had
reached. I measured some 14 feet in height and
as thick as an ordinary walking-stick. Being
interested in the cultivation of Chrysanthemums,
I envied such excellent neat sticks, which furnish
the best of supports for these rather tall-growing
plants. The Bamboos are planted near a mag-
nificent lake. — S.

Historical trees at Walmer. — Among the
trees in the grounds of Walmer Castle there is an
Acacia which is pointed out as having been
planted by Queen Elizabeth. From its size and

Garden Flora,
plate ion.

GAZANIAS.

(with a coloured plate of g. bracteata.*)

The plate this week represents a very beautiful
species of Gazania which was sent to Kew by
Mr. Gumbleton, of Queenstown, Ireland, in the
spring of last year for identification. Mr.
Gumbleton received it under the name of G.
pygmfea, but it seemed so different from that
and the allied species in its size and involucre,
that I considered it distinct, and described it as
a new species under the name of G. bracteata,
because the outer row of involucral bracts
sprang from near the base of the tube of that
organ instead of near the top in the iorm of
teeth, as is usual in this genus, for until now
the involucre has been considered to afford good
specific characters. But later in the season Mr.
Gumbleton sent two other forms raised from
the same packet of seed which, whilst differing
from the form previously sent in their invo-
lucres and colour of their flowers, were evidently
conspecific with it, and seemed to show that the
involucre is not altogether to be relied upon for
distinguishing the species, so far as the length
and position of the bracts composing it are con-
cerned. This caused me to more closely re-
examine the whole of the Kew material, with
the result that, firstly, I find the genus Gazania
is one of the most perplexing a botanist has to
deal with, more especially when he has not the
opportunity of seeing the plants growing in
abundance in a wild state, so that their range
of variation may be understood ; secondly, that
the leaves and involucres, within certain limits,
are very variable in what is certainly the same
species ; thirdly, that the size and facies of the
plant, as is the case with several other South
African compositae, are more or less altered by

* Drawn for The Garden in Mr. Gumbleton's gar-
den at Belgrove, QueeDstown, Co. Cork, by M. L. S. E.
I Lithographed and printed by Guillaume Severeyns.

Lz,

AZ, a BRACTE.

April 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

289

cultivation. And I am now of opinion that the
plant I have described under the name of G.
braoteata, despite its very much larger size as
grown by Mr. Gumbleton and at Kew, is really
the same as G. pygmtea, under which name it
was sent from Natal by Mr. Adlam to Mr.
Gumbleton, and G. canescens is also the same
plant. On the Continent it is known as G.
nivea, but that plant is described as having
crenate-pinnatisect leaves clothed with white
wool on both sides, and is no doubt from the
western part of South Africa, whilst this one has
the leaves usually entire, glabrous above, and
is from the eastern part of South Africa, in a
district that collectors had not reached when G.
nivea was described. Therefore, for the plant
represented in the accompanying plate I pro-
pose to substitute the name G. pygmrea for that
of G. braoteata, under which I previously de-
scribed it, the following being a brief account
drawn up from cultivated specimens of the plant
and the two varieties that I have seen.

G. PYGM.EA (Sonder, in "Linnrea," v. 23, p. CO).
Synonyms : G. canescens (Harvey, in Harvey
and Sonder "Flora Capensis," iii., p. 478); G.
bracteata (N. E. Brown, in Gardener*' Chronicle,
1894, v. 15, p. 620) ; G. nivea (Leichtlin, in Wiener
lUustrirte Garten Zeilung, 1894, p. 81, f. 21, not
of Lessing). — A beautiful half-hardy, herbaceous
perennial of tufted habit, with linear leaves that
are smooth or somewhat scabrous and bright
green above, snowy white beneath, with more or
less revolute margins ; occasionally a pinnate leaf
is also produced. In a wild state the leaves are
only 1 inch to 4 inches long, but under cultivation
they attain a length of 6 inches to 9 inches. The
peduncles are about as long as the leaves and
glabrous. The flower-heads are 2 inches to 2|
inches in diameter, the ray-florets being white,
without a spot at their base, and striped with
purple beneath ; the disc is yellow ; the involucre
is glabrous and scarcely hollowed at the base,
its outer bracts sometimes arising near the base
and very long, as in the accompanying plate,
sometimes arising above the middle and much
shorter, or reduced to teeth about twice as long
as broad.

G. PYQM2BA VAR. MACULATA (N. E. Br.). —
Leaves smooth above, peduncle and involucre
glabrous, the latter hollowed at the base. The
flower-heads are about 2 inches in diameter, the
ray-florets 1J lines to 2 lines broad, pale creamy
white, with a blackish spot at the base and a dull
purple stripe down the back.

G. pygmjea var. scperba (N. E. Br.). — Leaves
scabrous above, especially towards the margins.
Peduncles slightly scabrous. The flower-heads
are as large and the involucre hollowed at the
base as in the preceding variety, but the ray-florets
are 2 lines to 4 lines broad and pure white, without
a spot at their base, with a bluish stripe down the
back. This form is much the prettiest of the three ;
the greater breadth of the rays gives a more com-
pact appearance to the flower, and the white
being of great purity makes it a very charming
and effective plant for rockwork and other decora-
tive purposes. Natives of the Transvaal, Natal,
Orange Free State, &c.

Besides the above species, only about four
others of this pretty genus of Composite have
been introduced into cultivation, although
several of them are well worth growing, as a
glance at the subjoined enumeration of what
appear to me to be the best and most distinct
species will readily show.

I. — Annual Species.

G. Burohelli (De C., Harvey and Sonder,
"Flora Capensis," v. iii., p. 479). — One of the
most distinct species of the genus, sometimes very
compact, at others with elongate branches.
Leaves linear, with revolute margins, entire, or
with one to three lobes on each side, not white
beneath, very hispid, and the margins beset with
white bristles, with which also the apex and lobes

are tipped. Heads 1J inches to 1J inches in
diameter, yellow, with a purple spot at the base
of the rays ; the peduncle and involucre more or
less hispid or setose, and the tube of the involucre
with numerous reflexed, spine-pointed bracts. A
native of Namaqualand, Orange Free State and
Bechuanaland.

G. Lichtensteini (Less., Harvey and Sonder,
"Flora Capensis," v. iii., p. 479).— A small and
well-marked plant. The stem divides into several
prostrate branches, bearing oblanceolate or spathu-
late toothed leaves, which are quite flat, or with
very narrowly revolute margins, and at first
covered on both sides with a cottony tomentum,
the upper side becoming glabrous. The teeth
and apex are bristle-pointed, heads 1| inches to
2 inches in diameter, yellow, with a dark brown
spot at the base of the rays, whicli are purple
beneath. The glabrous tube of the involucre is
about twice as long as broad, with short, acute
teeth, and the base hollowed out with a sharp edge.
Native of Namaqualand.

G. TENtJiFOLiA (Less., Harvey and Sonder,
" Flora Capensis," v. iii., p. 479). — A neat species,
in habit like G. Lichtensteini, but the leaves are
pinnate, with two to six linear lobes on each side
and revolute margins, green and scabrous above,
white beneath. The heads are very freely pro-
duced, but only about three-quarters of an inch in
diameter, yellow, with a blackish spot at the base
of the rays. The involucre has three to four series
of narrow, hard-pointed bracts on the tube and
between them is neatly marked with white tomon-
tose lines. The base is broadly obconical, with
a projecting rim. Native of Namaqualand.

II. — Perennial Species.

A. — Leaves mostly or all pinnatisect, or a few entire.

G. pavonia (R. Br., Botanical Register, v. i.,
t. 35). — An old inhabitant of our gardens, having
been introduced into cultivation about the year
1804 by Mr. G. Hibbert. It is one of the finest
species of the genus and much resembles G. rigens,
but the leaves are mostly pinnatisect, green and
smooth above, whits beneath. Heads 3 inches to
3J inches in diameter, rich orange-yellow, the base
of the rays marked by a large blackish-brown spot,
in which is a blacker spot more or less surrounded
by white, the peduncle and involucre covered
with soft, bristle-like hairs. A native of the south-
western part of Cape Colony. Synonyms : Gor-
teria pavonia, Andrews, "Botanical Repository,"
t. 523 ; Gorteria heterophylla, Willdenow, " Hor-
tus Berolinensis," t. 98.

G. pinnata (Less., Harvey and Sonder, "Flora
Capensis," v. iii., p. 476). — A fine showy species ;
leaves mostly pinnatisect, with linear or oblong-
lanceolate lobes ; rough, with short bristly hairs
above, white beneath ; peduncle roughly hairy,
heads 3 inches or more in diameter, yellow, with
a black spot at the base of the rays ; involucre
roughly hairy, hollow-ed at the base, the teeth
shorter or longer than the tube, acute, or drawn
out to a long fine point. Native of the south-
western parts of Cape Colony.

G. jurine.efolia (De C. , Harvey and Sonder,
"Flora Capensis," v. iii., p. 474). — A very dwarf
and distinct species. Leaves all pinnatisect,
about an inch long, smooth above, white beneath,
the lobes bristle-pointed and with bristles on the
petioles. Peduncles as long as or shorter than
the leaves, glabrous. Heads about an inch in
diameter, the rays white without a basal spot,
striped with purple beneath, the disc yellow ; the
involucre is glabrous, not hollowed at the base,
and has short, ovate, acute, mucronate teeth. A
native of the Orange Free State and the district
of Colesberg, in Cape Colony.

B. — Leaves about half pinnatisect , half entire.

G. subulata (R. Br., Harvey and Sonder,
" Flora Capensis," p. 473). — A very fine showy
species. The leaves are glabrous on both sides,
not white beneath ; some are pinnatisect with two
to three linear lobes on each side, some are nar-
row linear and entire. Peduncles more or less
setose. Heads 2i inches to 3 inches in diameter,

yellow, with a blackish purple spot at the base of
the rays, which are purple beneath; involucre
glabrous, hollowed at the base, the teeth three-
quarters of an inch long, subulate, the outer ones
ciliate. Cape Colony.

C- — Leaves -mostly or all entire.
G. longiscapa (DeC, Harvey and Sonder,
"Flora Capensis," v. iii., p. 474; Gardeners'
Chronicle, 1883, v. xx., p. 77).— This, which is one
of the better kinds, appears to have been intro-
duced many years ago, as there is a cultivated
specimen in the Kew Herbarium that was placed
there prior to 1867, but it was probably soon lost
to cultivation and re-introduced about 1882 or
1883, when it was described by me at the place
above quoted. Leaves all entire or with some
pinnatisect leaves mingled with them, white be-
neath, with more or less revolute and sometimes
ciliate margins. Peduncle glabrous. Heads 1J
inches to 3 inches in diameter, yellow, with or
without a black spot at the base of the rays ; in-
volucre glabrous, hollowed at the base, the teeth
as long or longer than the tube, subulate, and
very finely pointed, the outer ones ciliate. Native
of the eastern parts of Cape Colony and Natal.

G. un'iflora (Sims, Botanical Magazine, t.
2270; Loddiges' Botanical Cabinet, t. 795).-
This species appears to have been introduced into
cultivation about 1820, and although not so showy
as some of the kinds, is still worthy of the gar-
dener's attention. It is more lax in habit than
most species, the branches being somewhat elon-
gated and decumbent. Leaves lanceolate or lan-
ceolate-spathulate, with occasionally a pinnately
divided one among them, bright green above,
white beneath. Heads lj inches to 2 inches in
diameter, bright yellow without a spot at the
base of the rays, which are coppery purple be-
neath. The involucre varies from nearly glabrous
to white-tomentose, and has short acute teeth.

G. un i flora var. leccol^ena (Harvey, "Flora
Capensis," v. iii., p. 472).— Like the type, but
both sides of the leaves and the involucre are
densely white-tomentose. Natives of 6andy places
near the coast of Cape Colony.

G. riiiens (Sims, Harvey and Sonder, "Flora
Capensis," v. iii., p. 473).— This is the oldest and
best known species in the genus, and one of the
most beautiful. It was cultivated by Miller
prior to 1755, and has never ceased to be a
favourite with gardeners. The leaves are mostly
entire and linear-lanceolate, with now and then a
pinnatisect leaf among them, bright green above,
white beneath. Peduncles glabrous. Heads 2J
inches to 3 inches in diameter, bright orange-
yellow, the rays with a blackish spot at their
base, having a white mark in the centre of it ;
involucre glabrous, with short acute teeth.
Synonym, G. splendens, Moore, Floral Magazine,
v. i., pi. 19; Illustration Horticole, I860, v. vii.,
pi. 235.

G. rigens var. purpurea (N. E. Brown). —
Like the type, but the flower-heads have a black-
ish-purple disc and rich purple-red-coloured rays,
with a black spot at their base. This variety
must certainly be a very attractive form, but I
have never seen a living specimen and doubt if it
is in cultivation, although it is a plant that is
well worth introducing. Curiously enough, how-
ever, on turning to Miller's "Figures of Plants,"
v. i., t. 49, I find that it must be this very variety
which he figures, although on page 33 of that work,
wherein the plant is for the first time described,
he states that " the rays are of a gold colour with-
in, but of a pale yellow on the outside. At the
base of the rays there is a beautiful circle of black
chequered with white, and the disc within the
circle is of the same colour as the rays." In the
plate, however, both ray and disc are represented
of a dark red colour and not at all golden. Pos-
sibly the artist depicted one variety, whilst Miller
described the common well-known form. Another
curious point in the history of G. rigens is that
the native locality is at present unknown so far
as I am aware, for although it has been cultivated
for 140 years, no wild specimen of it was contained
in the Kew Herbarium until this year, when
flowers of the purple variety were received, but

290

THE GARDEN

[April 27, 1895.

are not localised; nor had Harvey when writing
the "Flora Capensis" seen any but cultivated
specimens. I have a suspicion, however, that the
plant grows either in the neighbourhood of Bal-
danah Bay or in the district of Tulbagh.

G. ARMEiuonES (De C, Harvey and Sonder,
"Flora Capensis," v. iii., 478).— A dwarf compact
species, very distinct in character. Leaves linear
with very revolute margins, sometimes rolled back
to the midrib, rough with short, stiff, ascending
hairs, and terminated by a bulbous-based white
bristle : the peduncle and involucre densely
covered with soft spreading hairs. Heads 1 inch
to 2 inches in diameter, the rays white without a
spot at their base, purple beneath, the disc
yellow. The teeth of the involucre are very vari-
able, being sometimes no longer than the tube,
sometimes two to two and a half times as long,
and obtuse with a mucronate point or very acute
or subulate pointed. A native of the eastern dis-
tricts of Cape Colony and Natal, at 3000 feet to
8000 feet elevation.

G. cespitosa (Bolus in " Journal of the Linnean
Society," v. xviii., p. 393).— This is perhaps the
most remarkable of all the species, although the
flowers are not so large as in several of them.
Very densely tufted or thick procumbent woody
stems. The leaves are very numerous, about an
inch long, verv rigid, linear, spinulose-ciliate, gla-
brous. Peduncles short, glabrous ; heads li inches
to 1J inches in diameter, yellow, with no spot on
the rays ; involucre glabrous, with a cylindrical
tube hollowed at the base and striped with dark
purple on a green ground ; the teeth are shorter
than or as long as the tube, rigid and hard
pointed, the outer ones ciliate at the base. This
grows on the Sneeuwbergen Mountains, in the dis-
trict of Graaf Reinet, Cape Colony.

N. E. Brown.

The Week's Work.

FRUIT HOUSES.
Peaches and Nectarines — early house. —
Early Alexander and other early American kinds
will now be swelling freely and should be encou-
raged by mulching the surface soil and feeding
with liquid manures. The earliest varieties are
this season later than usual, owing to the dull,
cold weather that prevailed when the trees were in
bloom. No time should be lost now in going over
the trees. Fruits shaded by shoots or leaves should
be freelv exposed to the sun so as to get good col-
our and flavour. The early American Peaches
require much sun to get flavour, and as many
fruits are on the undersides of the trees, they may
be freely exposed by removing useless shoots and
leaves. Feeding must cease when swelling ceases,
and there must be less moisture overhead. A
warm dry temperature must be maintained, but
I do not advise keeping the house dry, as by
damping floors and walls and giving air freely
during the day a sweet growing atmosphere is
maintained. Previous to ripening it is well to
thoroughly moisten the border, as the flavour of
the ripe fruit will be affected if watered at that
period. The leading shoots, or those required for
extension, should be given the best position on the
wall or trellis, as these will be better matured if
allowed ample space. In regulating the shoots at
this date many may be removed if they are at all
thick. These early varieties are more difficult to
manage than older kinds, and to prevent bud-
dropping the best means should be now taken to
ripen the wood, this being the best preventive and
a safe one. The shoots for next season's bearing
that are growing too freely may have the points
pinched out, as they are not required too gross, 15
inches to 18 inches being ample as regards length.
The lateral growths should be stopped to one leaf
as they form, not allowing them to attain any
size. It is an easy matter to remove any badly
shaped or small fruits at this stage if at all
crowded, as there is no fear of dropping now, and

in the case of weakly trees it is well to crop lightly.
These latter should be encouraged by supplies of
a quick-acting fertiliser well washed into the soil
with tepid water afterwards. Strong growing
trees may fruit freely, this to some extent checking
gross wood. The temperatures for houses in which
the fruit is stoning may be raised, a night tempera-
ture of 65° to 70° and 10° higher by day, allowing
the thermometer to run up freely at closing time,
and with warmth in the pipes there should be
ample ventilation during bright sunshine.

Succession houses. — The trees in these houses
will have been making good progress of late and the
fruit should now be stoning. Our best standard
Peaches and Nectarines, such as Royal George,
Early Grosse Mignonne, and Lord Napier Nec-
tarines fruit freely, but there is no gain by leaving
too many fruits, and by early thinning of badly
placed fruits, those which are prominent have a
better opportunity to swell and attain a large size.
Crowded wood and small fruits are not profitable,
and are difficult to manage. Shoots with fruit at
the base may be made good use of if stopped at a
few leaves above the fruit; they act as feeders
during the swelling, and are readily removed
when the fruits are gathered. The trees do not
yet present the neat appearance of the early forced
trees with their new growths tied in, as it is well
to allow the young growths free play for a few
weeks till the wood is firmer and there will be
less danger of breakage. The shoots, too, may be
better placed to expose the fruits as much as
possible. The old system of leaving a large
quantity of fruit till the final swelling is not ad-
visable, impoverishing the trees and reducing
the size of the fruits left to mature. With
ample roots, food and moisture, and freedom from
sudden fluctuations of heat or cold, there is little
fear of dropping after the fruits have attained a
fair size. It is well to leave as many fruits as
possible on the upper part of the trellis, but they
should be equally distributed all over the trees.
Syringing will now be an important point of cul-
ture and must be regularly attended to, as green
fly, red spider and other pests will increase rapidly,
and should black fly make its appearance it is
well to remove it quickly by frequently fumigating,
dusting the affected parts with tobacco powder,
leaving the latter on the trees for a day and then
syringing freely. Ample supplies of food are
needed when the fruits are swelling, and by change
of food much finer fruit is obtained. By giving
liquid manure and a good fertiliser alternately
there is a great gain, as too much liquid from
animals closes up the soil. Temperatures may be
slightly raised, but it is well to maintain a low
night temperature with all stone fruits till the last
swelling or ripening period ; 60° to 65° will be
sufficient at night, the last named in warm
weather with a rise of 10° by day, thoroughly
wetting all portions of the trees and house when
closing, using water of the same temperature as the
house.

Late house.— Disbudding and thinning will be

the chief work in late houses, and as the trees

frequently get badly infested with green and

black fly, means must be taken to get rid of the

pests as soon as the fruits are set by repeated

fumigations, not in strong doses, but several nights

in succession, giving the trees a thorough syringing

afterwards to remove any fly the smoke may not

have reached. Many young cultivators use the

syringe too lightly, missing the parts of the trees

most difficult to reach. These are the parts

soonest infested by fly, being most exposed. Late

houses should get full air by day and a liberal

circulation at night, the top ventilators being left

open, but have sufficient warmth in the hot-water

pipes to prevent the thermometer falling below

45°. Syringe sufficiently early to get the foliage

dry by sunset, and by early syringing the trees

grow more freely. After the fruits are set the

trees should receive liberal supplies of moisture,

and as growth increases food may be given freely.

The remarks as to thinning for early houses apply

here with more force ; as so many fruits set, it is

well to thin early. Cases or unheated houses

should not be retarded in any way during the

flowering period, but the same attention given
as advised above.

The orchard house. — This house if not hard
forced, but used for a variety of fruits, will now
require much attention. The trees being in pots
with increased top growth will require more
moisture, food also, and those who do not repot
annually will require to feed early and give their
trees rich surface dressings as soon as the fruit
has Bet. The Peach and Nectarine will claim first
attention, disbudding and thinning being im-
portant details. With pot trees I do not advise
severe thinning, as in the case of large planted- out
trees, as often the fruits drop more when swelling
should there be a check in any way. Severe
stopping will be necessary to equalise the growth,
only leaving sufficient new wood to furnish the
trees for next season and for extension, stopping
the shoots almost close to the fruit or the bearing
wood. In watering these trees give liberal sup-
plies in fine weather, as should the balls once
get over-dry, the fruits drop badly and others-
fail to swell. In syringing see that all parts of
the trees are thoroughly moistened. Trees intro-
duced late will need more air and less moisture,
but avoid cold draughts, frequently examining
the trees, removing useless wood and fruit, and
feeding as growth increases.

Cherries. — These now swelling fast should
get liberal treatment, airing freely on bright
sunny days, and giving liquid manure or surface
dressingsof a good fertiliser. Cherries beingsurface
rooters need early mulching with rich food, which
feeds and saves the watering. Thinning in the case
of fruits well advanced may now take place, as in
many houses the fruits have nearly finished stoning
and it will now be safe to thin them. Cherries
drop up to the time they commence to colour, so
that early thinning is not advisable. Keep a
sharp look out for black fly, one of the most
troublesome pests these trees have to contend
with, as when the fruits ripen it is difficult to get
rid of it by syringing, so that it is well to keep
free of the pest in the earlier Btages. Trees
with the fruit nearly ripe should have the shoots
laid in, these if at all dirty being given a coating
of tobacco powder or dipped in tobacco solution.
Trees well supplied with water and food are less
subject to attacks of insects, and robust trees
either in pots or borders take large quantities of
water when bearing heavy crops.

G. Wythes.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Peas — principal sowing. — This must now be
made in order that the crop may arrive at ma-
turity before the mildew season sets in, as when
growth is late this scourge sometimes clears it off
in a very short time. Selection is of the greatest
importance in this sowing in order to avoid a
glut at one time. For those who are short of
ground, I recommend mixing the seed of various-
sorts and sowing it in the same rows to prolong
the supply. Allow plenty of space between each
row where practicable, and on heavy, wet soils
take out shallow trenches, filling the same with
any fairly rich, light soil, applying artificial ma-
nure later on rather than digging in animal manure
previous to sowing the seed. Stourbridge Mar-
row, Veitch's Perfection, and the deservedly popu-
lar Criterion are excellent, the same sorts being
again sown in about three weeks' time — Ne Plus
Ultra, Walker's Perpetual Bearer, and British
Queen being best sown the first week in June for
late autumn supply.

Late Celery. — Where room can be spared for
several, or even one row of late Celery it will be
found invaluable to help out other vegetables,
especially should the winter be severe and the
majority of the Broccoli perish. For flavouring
purposes also it may be used, and thus the better
blanched samples spared for ordinary use. An
ordinary cold frame with a sunny aspect will
answer capitally for sowing the seed in, keeping
it close till growth is visible, afterwards fully ex-
posing it in fine weather to harden and induce
stocky plants. Leicester Red is about the best

April 27, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

29]

Celery to stand a wet winter and general expo-
sure, Standard-bearer and Wright's Grove Red
also being very good. As this batch will make the
most of its growth at a later date, much manure
is not advisable, as it is apt to induce hollow
growth and consequent rotting. Mushroom ma-
nure dug into the trenches now will be in good
condition for the balls of roots by the time the
young plants are fit for transplanting. When the
seedlings are fit for pricking out frames will not
be necessary ; any well-sheltered corners where
the sun gains admission and where rough
boards can be arranged round the plants and
mats thrown over at night will answer well.
Celeriac may still be sown, the variety called
Early Paris being useful as a second dish in
winter. The seed should be sown in a little
warmth and the young plants pricked out in due
time, being finally lifted with good balls and
planted in rows from 18 inches to 2 feet apart
and 18 inches from root to root, planting in drills
in preference to trenches and on the level on
heavy soils.

Dandelion. — This is much esteemed in many
places where winter salads are in request, the
forced tops forming a pleasant change from En-
dive and Lettuce. Being perfectly hardy, a por-
tion may be left in the ground all the winter and
allowed to come on naturally in spring. If needed
in a blanched state small batches should be lifted
at intervals and placed in the Mushroom house.
That left in the ground can be readily blanched
in spring by covering the crowns with Seakale or
large flower-pots and covering with leaves.

Salsafy and Scorzonera. — Rows of these may
now be sown where they are to grow, the
plants being duly thinned out to the required
distance as soon as large enough. This crop pays
for rich ground, as on soil at all hungry or shallow
the roots become tough and of poor quality. The
foliage being very liable to the attacks of fly must
be watched as soon as through the ground and
sprinkled occasionally as recommended for Tur-
nips.

Sowing Globs Artichokes. — I am aware that,
as a rule, a great percentage of Artichokes raised
from eeed are worthless, yet after severe winters
offsets from established clumps are so scarce, that
sowing seed is compulsory. This should if pos-
sible have the advantage of a warm, sunny corner
in order to hasten on the plants, so that it may
be seen during the first season which are worth
retaining. Some gardeners sow the seed in pots
or pans and pot on the seedlings, growing them
in comfortable quarters and afterwards hardening
off, finally planting out with the balls intact.
Where there is no scarcity of ground a good batch
should be raised and planted out for trial 18 inches
apart.

Planting Asparagus. — In most gardens this
may now be done. It should be borne in mind that
however much trouble and expense the prepara-
tion of the new beds may have cost, failure and
disappointment must ensue unless due care is
bestowed on the seedlings at planting time. I
believe careless planting has much to answer for
in the many failures in growing this vegetable.
The rootlets are of such a delicate character, that
exposure to cutting winds for a few minutes, or
even to hot sun, may destroy them. When the
roots have to be sent from a nursery, arrange-
ments should be made for packing them in damp
Moss or some such material. When home-grown
roots are employed, the matter of transplanting is
made easier. A calm and, if possible, dull day
should be chosen for the job, and, presuming that
the beds were prepared at the time advised, the
soil will now be nice and firm and need not be
trodden. Some still prefer the old-fashioned 4-feet
beds, but unless the soil is retentive and cold it is not
necessary to raise them above the ordinary level. I
get capital results from planting single rows, allow-
ing a distance of 2 feet from plant to plant and a 2A-
feet alley between. For the first year or two this
space can be utilised for Lettuces. Lift only a
few plants at a time, sprinkling the roots and
planting carefully with a small handfork. If
the compost is not of the best description, work

in a little fine loam and leaf-mould amongst and
around the roots. Sink the crowns just beneath
the surface, and if the young growths have pushed,
draw a little soil over them to protect from frost
until somewhat hardened. Nothing more will be
needed except keeping down weeds until growth
is a foot or 18 inches high, when small sticks
should be placed to each plant and the shoots
secured thereto, as high winds are very liable to
loosen them at the base and sometimes snap them
off. This precaution is not necessary the second
year. In regard to varieties, Conover's Colossal
and Reading Giant are capital for the main
cuttings, while the late Argenteuil forms a good
succession. On hot soils, if the summer should be
dry, a slight mulch of leaf-mould will be beneficial.

Small seeds. — Secondary sowings of various
Kales may now be made, plenty of that absolutely
frost-proof variety Asparagus being allowed for,
the dwarfer forms also of the Scotch or curly
being better for latest supplies than the taller, as
they are more easily protected by snow. The old
Cottager's Kale is still one of the most useful, as
are also Read's Hearting and a variety commonly
known as Ragged Jack. Choose a somewhat shady
position, as the seedlings will come on quite fast
enough, and allow plenty of room between the
rows at this date, this being more needful than in
the earlier sowings. Couve Tronchuda, or Portugal
Cabbage, is a most delicious vegetable, coming in
most useful after the latest autumn batches of
ordinary Cabbages, and finding great favour in the
dining room. It may be sown now and treated
in all ways similarly to other green crops.

Late Broccoli. — In midland and northern
localities seed may now be sown of the majority of
spring Broccoli. In the mure favoured counties a
fortnight later will be a better date for a few
sorts. Amongst reliable kinds may be named
Veitch's Spring White, Penzance, Cattell s Eclipse,
and the old Leamington. For continuing the
supply until the handlight Cauliflowers are
ready I find none to equal Veitch's Model, Late
Queen, and Methven's June ; these, and especially
Model, are extremely hardy and of good quality,
and being dwarf in growth stand severe winters
far better than do the more leggy varieties. Sow
thinly and give plenty of room between the rows,
finally planting out if possible on plots from which
Spinach, spring Cabbage, or other early crops
have been cleared, and that without any further
preparation of the ground, a solid bottom favouring
a stiff hardy growth. If room can be spared for a
few rows of the early white and purple Cape they
will be found most serviceable at a time when
Broccoli is notover-plentif ul. These may be planted
between rows of Potatoes, a course which should
always be avoided with sorts that have to stand
through the winter.

Pickling Cabbage.— These in common with
ordinary spring Cabbages succumbed in many
places to the severity of the winter. Where seed
was sown in good time in January as advised, the
plants will now be sufficiently advanced and
hardened to admit of planting in their permanent
places. Give extra rich ground, as there will be
none too much time for making large solid heads.
It is a good plan whenever sowing small seeds to
include a small quantity of summer Cabbages, as
these fresh and young are always acceptable and
can be planted out on any odd plot or corner not
large enough for main batches of winter greens.
Cocoa-nut is one of the most useful Cabbages for
summer sowing, turning in quickly and being of
excellent flavour.

Vegetable Marrows. — Seed may now be sown
in small pots to produce plants for planting out
under handlights or other protective agents in
June. Sow a couple of seeds in each pot and
select the best plant, moving to a cool greenhouse
temperature as soon as growth appears through
the surface in order to secure a hardy constitution.
Moore's Cream, Long White, Pen-y-byd, and the
Custard varieties are all suitable for this sowing,
giving good returns when well cared for. If
plants sown earlier and intended to be planted out
in early Potato frames are likely to become pot-
bound before the frames are cleared, give another

liberal shift, using good rich soil, and assist growth
by occasional doses of liquid manure, as if once
Marrows become stunted and yellow they are
practically useless. J. Crawford.

Flower Garden.

THE ROCK GARDEN.

V.

April 4.— Rock plants in bloom. — This week
has added two more choice Saxifrages to the
plants now in bloom. Saxifraga Boydi is in
flower not only at Exeter, but also at Newton
Abbot and at Torquay. This little gem very
much resembles S. Burseriana, but its flowers
are of a clear beautiful sulphur-yellow. It is
still scarce and a very slow grower. In the
various rock gardens in the towns mentioned it
occupies the same position, viz., slightly slop-
ing ground fully exposed to the sun, and
planted in a narrow crevice containing very
stony, calcareous soil, a position which seems
to suit it. The other little gem now blooming
is Saxifraga retusa. Its aj>pearance just now
is altogether unique, and it would make a good
companion to the first named variety (S. Boydi).
The leaves are very small and compact, remind-
ing one more of those of Androsace pyrenaica
than of a Saxifrage. The flowers, nestling on
this cushion of dark green foliage, are bright
rose with a dark purplish red centre, and
stamens of the same colour. These Rockfoils
deserve one of the choicest corners in the select
part of the rock garden. Morisia hypog;ua was
flowering here in January, when six weeks of
unusually severe frost set in and the plants
were partly covered with snow. It is now,
however, continuing to bloom just as if nothing
had happened. Gentians are showing as yet
only buds here in Exeter, but in a rock garden
at Newton Gentiana verua is already in full
bloom. At Torquay Rhododendron Vaseyi is
also in flower. This American species would
grow too large among the alpines, but in the
background of a rock garden it well deserves a
place. The flowers, of a bright pink colour,
appear before the leaves. In the same
rock garden I noticed large groups of Pri-
mula capitata in full bloom, presenting a
charming sight with their large heads of lilac
blossoms. Here at Exeter various other Primulas
have opened out of doors, including P. nivalis
with pure white flowers, the dark purple P. in-
termedia and the lilac P. denticulata. In the
rock garden the best place for these varieties
would seem to be a partly shaded stony ground.
Shortia galacifolia is blooming now in various
places in Devonshire, looking perhaps at its best
in a shady nook of the rock garden at Abbotsbury.
Draba aizoides is following closely upon Draba
Aizoon, which commenced to flower last week.
At a first glance both resemble each other, but
D. aizoides is of a deeper golden yellow colour
and its leaves are shorter than those of D. Aizoon ;
both seem to do best in a narrow crevice fully
exposed to the sun. lberis stylosa flowered in
January and is now again in bloom, but its
foliage has been slightly injured by the frost,
which is not to be wondered at when such hardy
plants as lberis semperflorens, I. sempervirens,
&c, have been cut to the ground by the
severe weather.

A very effective plant now blooming is Cory-
dalis solida, which is equally well adapted for
the larger rocks or for the rocky border. The
rosy purple flowers are very showy, aud the
glaucous, much-divided foliage is equally effec-
tive. This is, however, a plant which should

292

THE GARDEN.

[Apbil 27, 1895.

not be planted too close to the smaller gems,
which it might injure by its robust growth,
although it does not spread so rapidly as the
better-known yellow Fumitory, which is not in
bloom as yet.

The same position, i.e., a part of the rock
garden away from the smallest alpines, should
be given to Orobus vermis and Omphalodes
verna, which are now flowering ; the former has
Vetch-like lilac flowers of a pleasing shade, those
of the latter being brilliant blue. Omphalodes
verna is an excellent plant for naturalising in a
wild garden, where large patches are most
effective.

Of Anemones, only two kinds are as yet in
bloom here, viz., Anemone vernalis and A. Pul-
satilla, the former with flesh-coloured and the
latter with dark purple flowers, and both of
peculiar shaggy appearance. A. vernalis I find
does best in a half-shady position, while A.
Pulsatilla seems to prefer a moist spot fully ex-
posed.

Saxifraga Huetti has also opened its yellow
flowers ; this is not a plant for the select part of
the rock garden, as it spreads too quickly, but
where in the rougher and more shady part a
quickly spreading, bright green carpet is desir-
able, nothing could be better.

Of Androsaces, only A. carnea is out in bloom
so far ; the bright pink flowers springing from a
mossy cushion of greenery are very attractive.
It strongly objects to calcareous soil and does
best in a half-shady position on almost level or
only slightly sloping ground.

Exeter. F. W. Meyer.

(To be continued.)

THE ALPINE PINK.

(dianthus alpinus.)

This pretty little Pink is still comparatively

rare in gardens, as it is not one of those things

that once planted in the rock garden practically

Dianthus alpinus. Engraved for The Garden
from a photograph sent by Mr. E. H. Lush-
ington, Cobham, Surrey.

takes care of itself afterwards, although in
suitable positions it does not give much trouble,
but spreads into dense tufts of deep green
growth seldom rising more than 3 inches in
height. The proper place for it in the rock
garden is one sunny and exposed, but where it
can have abundance of moisture so that it
should be as near the ground level as possible.
Although moisture-loving, there must be no

stagnant water in the soil, a good depth of
light material — well-decayed leaf soil is as
good as anything — from which all excess of
water can rapidly drain away being the best.
The more exposed the plants are the healthier
will they be and the greater the number of
flowers. This species is easily distinguished
from other alpine Pinks by its dark shining
green leaves. The flowers, which appear in
June and July, are borne singly on a slender
erect stem, but so profusely from flourishing
plants as to quite hide the foliage. They are
each about 1 inch in diameter, deep rosy purple
spotted with crimson. There is a distinct dark
zone of colour around the eye and the edges of
the petals are fringed. A coloured plate of this
plant was given in The Garden of August 30,
1884.

Pentstemon cuttings. — At page 158 of the
last half year's issue of The Garden will be
found some remarks on the treatment of cuttings
taken from the Pentstemon late in the year. It
has been gratifying to me to find even in this un-
usually severe winter not a single cutting injured,
although there was no other covering but a bell-
glass. Instead of using a wooden frame with a
glass top to cover them as I had intended, I used
several bell-glasses of various sizes, from a 9-inch
to one only 4 inches in diameter, under which
last I found could be placed three cuttings. These
cuttings will not put forth any roots until the
sun's rays have deeply penetrated the soil; but
they remained covered from the end of Octo-
ber last to the 12th of the present month (April),
when the bell-glasses were removed for a few
hours in the middle of the day. Should the
weather become very hot during the next few
weeks the soil will be watered and the glasses re-
placed during the hottest portion of the day. It
is of importance not to lift the plants until some
of them indicate growth at their points, which
will probably not be before the end of May ; the
best rooted will then be removed to the quarters
where they are to remain, and any that have not
yet struck, if only just beginning to do so, will be
replaced, watered, and have their glasses set over
them for a few days to stimulate their growth.
The first laterals taken from the Pentstemon in
early autumn make better plants than those taken
at a later date and soon root, but they will need
the protection of a frame or greenhouse during
the winter, and are never so strong or so good for
that purpose as plants which have' been raised
during the preceding winter in the manner herein
recommended. — B. S.

Daphne rupestris.— Referring to Mr. Wood's
note on the above in The Garden of March 16
(p. 18"), I believe that about twenty years ago
Messrs. Backhouse received a considerable con-
signment of this species, collected in the neigh-
bourhood of Bondone, near Storo, in the Tj'rol.
It was thought to be a great improvement (as a
rockwork plant) on 1). cneorum, in being much
more compact in habit and having larger flowers
of a finer and softer colour (rosy pink) and equally
fragrant. I do not remember from what authority
Messrs. B. derived the name of D. rupestris, under
which they grew it. I think they were the first
to send it out in England. — W. M.

Scilla sibirica on the Grass. — We have but
few blue early-flowering plants that are suitable
for planting on the Grass, which makes this Scilla
doubly valuable. It is very pretty growing in
groups on borders and beds, but far more so
when grown in big masses on the Grass. I have
this Scilla growing in this way under some Lime
trees. The Grass being somewhat thin, it thrives
splendidly. I planted the bulbs some three years
ago, and they improve every year. Some planted
two years ago at the foot of a large Ash and under
a Chestnut tree are also doing well. I make a
hole and drop in two or more bulbs, according
to their size. It is a pity the Scillas do not
flower a week or two earlier, so as to be in
bloom with the Snowdrops. Can any reader tell

me whether Chionodoxas will thrive in this way »
Just now they are lovely in patches in beds and
in the rock garden. — J. Crook.

ANEMONE APENNINA.

This lovely spring flower carpets the ground in
the woods of Italy just as the Wood Anemone
does in Britain. It grows freely in almost all

'«£

Anemone apennina. Engraved for The Garden
from a photograph sent by Miss A. Worsley,
Rodney Lodge, Clifton.

soils and is to be had cheaply in large quantity.,
so that that there is no reason why it should
not be planted extensively. Only a poor
idea of its beauty can be gathered by plant-
ing it in little tufts about garden beds and
borders, but by putting it in the grass we
see it under conditions such as it grows in
in its native land and which add materially to-
its effect. There are many spots about most gar-
dens where this Anemone could be planted
and left to take care of itself, and after a few
years a series of pretty pictures growing yearly in
extent and beauty will be the result. We have
tried it in many ways and it has never failed.
It does not increase quite so fast in stiff loam,
but in light, free soils it runs rapidly, and will
make a carpet as thick as the Anemone in the
woods. In thin plantations where the sun
can reach it beautiful effects might be made,
and in grass it is specially charming, coming into
flower in April, its clear bhre stars borne just
above the points of the fresh green growing grass.
A coloured plate of this Anemone was given in
The Garden of August 18, 1894

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

The week ending April 13 has been an ex-
ceptionally favourable one for outdoor work, and
all flower garden operations requiring attention
were accordingly rushed along rapidly. The
Dutch hoe has been run through all autumn-
planted beds of Pinks, Carnations, Violas and the
like ; also all herbaceous borders, taking par-
ticular care in the latter instance not to injure any
plants just on the move, and which as yet are
barely perceptible. The ground being in capital
working order, many autumn-struck herbaceous
plants have also been consigned to permanent
quarters, either to fill up beds or to be sparingly
planted where the remaining portion of the ground
is to be presently filled with other things. I
found on looking through the clumps of outdoor
Chrysanthemums of the Desgrange and outdoor
early-flowering pompon sections that they are
either killed outright, or that the old stools are so-
crippled as not to be worth saving. The latter
have therefore been cleared away, to be replaced
with a batch of December-struck plants. The
chief drawback to the Desgrange family is their

April 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

293

very formal appearance. They make, however,
in flower a bank of colour and are useful for
large beds associated with Starworts of somewhat
similar height, or, better still, with a broad
edging of Pentstemons. All Chrysanthemums
being gross feeders, the ground destined for the
reception of these summer-flowering varieties
should be well prepared. If there are a few more
than are required for outdoor work they may be
potted on and will be very acceptable for the con-
servatory or to associate with such things as
Fuchsias, zonal and other Pelargoniums, Begonias,
&c. , in outdoor groups of pot plants.

Boxing off. — Many boxes were set at liberty
with the planting out of herbaceous subjects, and
advantage has been taken of this to shift a quan-
tity of bedding stuff from the cutting pots. I
like to have rather small boxes, 18 inches by 12
inches by 3 inches being quite large enough to
handle with ease, and as plants are never re-
quired to remain long in them a lot of soil is not
necessary. In making them care should be taken
to put the bottom strips fairly close together,
not more than an eighth of an inch apart.
This may seem somewhat superfluous advice,
but it is really an important matter, especially
for present boxing operations. A considerable dis-
tance between the strips means an enormous
amount of drainage in proportion to the size of
the box, the water running through them as
through a sieve, and a consequent inability to
keep the plants sufficiently moist later in the
season, given a spell of hot, dry weather and boxes
full of roots. It is not advisable to box thickly ;
sufficient room should be allowed for the free
development of the plants. Seedlings and spring-
struck cuttings of Petunias and Verbenas if in-
tended for special purposes are the first to receive
attention, as, being fairly hardy, they will be
among the first to be planted out. The dwarf
Ageratum will also require early attention, it
being one of the bedding plants requiring a longer
season of growth. The culture of Lobelias had in
many places been abandoned in favour of the
more enduring Ageratum above-named and the
different shades of purple Violas, but the advent
of Barnard's Perpetual Lobelia has given them
a new lease of life, this being not only a great,
but, as its name implies, a continuous bloomer.
Dwarf plants of tender habit that are likely
to be required for carpet bedding where this
style of gardening is still practised may also
be boxed. I have before referred to the use-
fulness of home-made frames for hardening off
where permanent pits and frames are somewhat
scarce, and just notice them again at the present
time because a man handy with saw and hammer
can, with the aid of a few inch boards and some
pieces of quartering, soon put them together.
The quartering may be driven into the ground at
intervals of about 6 feet and sawn off square at
the top at a height of 4 feet for the back and
about 15 inches or 18 inches for the front of the
frames. The boards can then be fastened on
either side the quartering, enclosing a space of
about 3 inches, which may be packed with dry
Fern, Heather or straw. If no glass lights are
available, skeleton lights, stout poles or open
hurdles can be laid across the frames, and if a
good night covering is put on, no spring frost we
are likely to have will find its way to the plants.
Any of the hardier type of bedding plants that
are still in fruit houses where a rather high, moist
temperature is maintained should be promptly
removed from thence, or leggy, weakly growth
is encouraged that will get badly nipped with
the first exposure to cold winds. Before passing
from the bedding plants it may be noted that with
all things that come under this category the aim
should be to secure nice sturdy, stocky plants,
because one good plant is worth three or four bad
ones. Also avoid undue crowding either in pot,
pan or box, and as these get full of roots, water
thoroughly when required, giving not a surface
sprinkling, but a thorough soaking that will
penetrate right through the soil.

Carnations. — I am sorry to hear that the per-
sonal experience noted in a recent number as to

the border Carnations having come safely through
the winter is not a common one, many growers
having to chronicle heavy losses. Under these
circumstances, unless the loss can be supplied by
the purchase of other stock (a rather expensive
business if there are many gaps), the best sub-
stitutes for the current season will be found in the
Grenadin and Margarita types. If these were
sown as advised in February the seedlings will by
this time be sturdy little plants and may be
pricked out into a frame in prepared soil, pushed
along as rapidly as possible, and planted out
as soon as they are ready. If any Pinks re-
main in the cutting frame they can be used to fill
one or two beds. Some of the newer kinds, as
Mrs. Walsh, Her Majesty, Ernest Ladhams and
Ascot, throw large and beautiful flowers, which are
excellent for cutting. As, however, they are over
earlier in the season than Carnations, it is hardly
advisable to allow them to monopolise the whole of
the beds. They may be planted in large clumps
and the remaining portion of the bed presently
filled with, for instance, large plants of Fuchsias or
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, for which the foliage of
the Pinks will furnish an admirable carpet.

Francoa ramosa. — Where this is grown rather
largely alike for the conservatory and to be pre-
sently associated with other things in outdoor
groups of pot plants it is advisable in the case of
old plants witli many breaks to stake them out a
bit, so as to secure a good breadth of flower-
spikes ; also, if a succession is required, to place
a portion of the stock on the sunniest shelf of the
greenhouse, an earlier development of flower-
spike being thereby secured. It should, how-
ever, be remembered that while the plants will do
with plenty of sun they must have a dry atmo-
sphere and a fair share of air. Anj'thing approach-
ing a moist, stuffy atmosphere is decidedly in-
jurious. The flower-spike will start under such
conditions, but the chances are that instead of
developing its flowers it will come to a premature
ending. E. Bfrrell.

Claremont.

Rose Garden.

ROSES m INDIA.

Writing from Baroda on March 29, Mr.
GoldrLng says as to Roses : —

You ask about Tea Roses here. The general
practice here is to bud very low, so that practi-
cally you have own-root bushes. Sometimes
layering is done, but it is not a general prac-
tice to strike from cuttings. Ever since I
have been here (the middle of October) we have
had Roses in abundance, and just now as the
hot season is setting in the bushes are laden
with bloom, particularly Marechal Niel, La-
marque, Celine Forestier, and such kinds. Hybrid
Perpetuals, especially the dark kinds, do not do
well, too hot and dry for them, but the Polyantha
Roses are in their element. I can cut bushels of
Roses every morning from one garden alone, the
bushes being enormous, some 10 feet to 12 feet
through. They grow thus because it does not do
to prune out here, for they never lose their leaves ;
consequently you see the natural habit of Rose
growth, which left alone is most graceful in most
of the Teas and Noisettes, flinging out long arch-
ing shoots laden with bloom. I wish you could
see the glorious colour effects we are getting now
from the great tropical trees like Bombax mala-
baricum 50 feet to 70 feet high, covered with
brilliant red flowers like single Camellias ; also
the Butea frondosa, vivid orange-scarlet pea
flowers in dense masses, and the Poinciana regia,
which when you see it for the first time in a mass
takes away the power of speech. Such effects as
these should be aimed at in English gardens, and,
taking the hint from Nature's grouping, I am
planting groups of 100 or more of the biggest
trees, which in a few years will be a glorious
sight. The present time is the beginning of the

hot season, and corresponds with our spring at
home, when the trees that lose their leaves an-
nually drop them and re-clothe themselves in a
week, and in most cases throw out blossom at the
same time, though the ground is parched and dry
to a considerable depth.

I wish I could bring you photos of some of the
splendid colour effects we get from climbing
plants ; some climb to the top of the biggest trees
and then fall over with a dense curtain smothered
with bloom. That lovely Thunbergia you figured
recently behaves like this. It is quite impos-
sible to realise what those glorious stove climbers
here are from what they are under pot culture.

A new Rose. — Mr. Jackson Dawson, of the
Arnold Arboretum, has produced from a cross
between Rosa rugosa and R. Wichuriana a Rose
which trails flat on the ground, with very thorny
wood like rugosa, and with rugosa foliage in form
and colour, with all the gloss of Wichuriana and
flowers 3 inches across, of a fine light red. It is
sure to be very useful in many situations. This
is, I think, the first time it has been described. I
consider it the most interesting Rose raised in this
country for some time. — F. L. Temple.

Rose Her Majesty. — This grand exhibition
Rose has two faults, namely, the blooms are too
large and they are extremely few as a rule. But
to avoid these failings at Broad Oaks, Byfleet,
Mr. Carpenter has a plan which I had not pre-
viously seen adopted in the case of this variety.
It is well known to produce a few (generally a
very few) shoots of extra length during the sea-
son. Now if these shoots be pruned in the ordi-
nary way the results are those complained of
above. The practice then is to peg the growths
down nearly their whole length, only just re-
moving the unripened points. Mr. Carpenter
assured me that it is not at all uncommon to ob-
tain a couple of dozen magnificent flowers from
one plant by adopting this simple plan. It seems
to me a way that might well be followed this sea-
son if the pruning has not already been done. —
H. S.

NOTES ON ROSES.

It is some years since our Roses were so backward
as at present. Last year on April 17 my neigh-
bour was able to cut a respectable bunch of
R6ve d'Or, tiloire de Dijon, and Reine Marie
Henriette from a sheltered wall. In 1893 my
notes show that he cut the same on the 20th of
the same month. This year growth is not more
than 3 inches to 4 inches in length upon the same
plants. These plants are on a south- west aspect,
and consequently protected from the keen north-
east wind prevailing as I write. I think this by
far the best position for early Roses ; they miss
the keen winds and also escape too bright and
early sunshine upon frosty mornings such as we
have lately been experiencing. The great con-
trast between this season and last is most remark-
able, and we are not likely to have growth for-
ward enough to be injured by May frosts as was
the case both in 1803 and 1804. It is sad to note
the havoc caused by frost here in the south, yet I
understand that once more Messrs. Cocker's
Aberdeen Roses have escaped much injury,
although they were unprotected. Surely they
did not have the same severe frost as we registered,
or else they were fortunately protected by a good
layer of snow. It would be interesting to know
if this was the case. Last year we had many
insect enemies during April. Both maggot and
fly were prevalent in 1893 and 1894 at this
date, but I fail to see any at present. I do not
believe a hard winter makes much difference to
insect pests, and no doubt they will appear in due
course. Referring once more to notes of previous
years, I find that my maidens were staked and
tied over once at this date in 1893 and 1894, but
now it is difficult for an inexperienced hand to
realise that there is a crop upon the ground after
stocks have been cut back. In this district we
never had worse prospects than at present. I am
indeed sorry to hear that the Rev. Foster- Melliar's

294

THE GARDEN.

[April 27, 1895.

standard and half-standard Teas have suffered
even more than my own, where I fear not
ten per cent, are alive, this including old and
maiden plants and dormant budded stocks. Year
by year we see the better plan is to grow our Roses
as dwarfs in all possible cases. R.

SHORT NOTES.— ROSES.

Rcse Boieldieu has not been good for several
seasons now. We saw it at its best in 1887 and 1803,
as it likes a hot and dry summer. It is not a Rose I
can recommend for general culture, but it is sometimes
so good that one hardly cares to ditcard it from a fair-
sized collection. — R.

Hose Dr. Grill does not become known so widely
as I should have thought. It is strange how here and
there a good Rose seems to slip many growers. Nothing
can be prettier or more useful in all ways than this,
with its soft rose and beautiful coppery shading.
Dulce Bella I have no doubt is synonymous with this.
— R.

Hose Mme. de Watteville under glass.—
This is coming good with me under glass this season.
It is one of the very sweetest scented Roses grown and
every bud is perfect when undet cover. To get large
flowers they need very severe thinning, but I prefer
such sweet-scented and uniquely shaded blossoms in
quantity. — R.

Stove and Greenhouse.

HYMENOCALLIS SPECIOSA.

The accompanying illustration will be at once
recognised as an old occupant of our stoves,
long known under the name of Pancratium
specio^um, but now included in the genus
Hymenocallis, to which, indeed, all the other
plants generally cultivated as Pancratiums,
with two exceptions, beloDg. These two are
the hardy Pancratium maritimum and P. illy-
ricuro, while the other Pancratiums proper are
of little value from an ornamental point of
view. The reverse, however, holds good with
regard to the varieties of Hymenocallis, every
member of which is well worthy of cultivation.

H. speciosa, herewith shown, was introduced
into this country from the West Indies in 1759, so
that it must be considered among the oldest of
our stove plants. Unlike many bulbous plants, it
is decidedly handsome at all seasons, for the rich
green massive foliage is retained all the year
round, and when crowned with its head of pure
white, deliciously fragrant blossoms, it will com-
mend itself to everyone. The plant grown under
the specific name of fragrans appears to be the
same as H. speciosa. Apart from its beauty as a
specimen the flowers are also much appreciated
when in a cut state.

H. macrostephana is a very beautiful plant of
doubtful origin, that has long been particularly
well grown at Syon House. Of this a coloured
plate was given in The Garden, July 10, 1880.
The leaves of this are longer and narrower than in
the preceding, while the flowers are particularly
striking by reason of the large funnel-shaped
cup, which tends to convey the impression that it
may be a hybrid between H. speciosa and Ismene
calathina, as has been suggested by Mr. Baker.
At all events it is a thoroughly good garden
plant, and one whose flowering season is not
limited to any particular period of the year.

The two named above are undoubtedly the
best of this section, but the list is by no means
exhausted, as in addition we have

H. caribb^ea, with long, rather thin leaves and
flowers, after the manner of, but less showy than
those of H. speciosa.

H. littoralis, too, is somewhat in the 'same
way, but with longer flowers. The segments,
however, are very narrow, but when the flowers
are borne in large heads it is certainly ornamen-
tal. Some few years ago immense numbers of

this were imported by some of our nurserymen,
and barrels full of bulbs could be purchased at the
London auction sales, but it was by many quickly
discarded on the ground that, as far as its orna-
mental qualities are concerned, it was greatly
inferior to H. speciosa or H. macrostephana.

H. Harrisiana is a pretty little species that
will do well in the greenhouse or even in a
frame. It is a native of Mexico and was intro-
duced in 1846. Apart from the fact that it is
more hardy, this species differs from the preceding
in being deciduous.

H. (iuianensis, introduced about ten years ago,
is remarkable from the long drooping segments of
the flower being spirally twisted, thus rendering
it very striking. Some individuals are, however,
in this respect more pronounced than others.

The culture of these different species of
Hymenocallis is not at all difficult, and some of
them (H. speciosa especially) will stand for
years in the same pot and flower well. Hence
particular care should be taken when repotting
to see that thorough drainage is ensured, and
also to use a compost that will remain sweet a
long time. Good turfy loam, lightened according
to its consistency with peat or leaf mould, and
sand will suit them well, while as the pots get

earlier stages is somewhat straggling. With age,
however, it becomes more compact, and is so free-
flowering, that the Kew plant is quite a mass of
its magnificent blossoms. It is by some urged
against this class of Rhododendrons that they do
not remain so long in bloom as many other sub-
jects, which is certainly true, yet they are so
grand when in flower, and in the case of some of
them so deliciously fragrant, that when at their
best they are unapproachable by any other class
of greenhouse shrubs. If planted out and allowed
to assume the character of good sized bushes,
these Rhododendrons, when at their best, are
very fine. — H. P.

Hsemanthus Kalbreyeri. — This, which is by
most authorities considered synonymous with H.
multiflorus, it still frequently met with under the
specific name of Kalbreyeri, and during the present
season I have noted it several times in fine condi-
tion. A well-flowered example is when at its
best a really charming object, the globular flower-
head, composed of a vast number of blossoms,
being most brilliantly coloured, and very unlike
anything else that we have in our gardens. Un-
fortunately it does not, as a rule, thrive under
cultivation, and the massive heads of blossoms
are in most cases, at least, produced by freshly
imported plants, as the majority quickly go back

Hymenocallis speciosa grandijtora. Engraved for The Garden from a
photograph sent by M. C. G. Van Tubergen, Jun., Haarlem.

full of roots liquid manure will be of service.
ODe prominent feature in connection with these
different species of Hymenocallis is that, unlike
many other bulbs, they can with ordinary care
be depended upon to do well and improve year
after year. Of Pancratiums, the pretty P. illy-
ricum, a native of Southern Europe, was well
shown in The Garden, September 6, 1890.
Both this and P. maritimum can during the
winter be obtained at a cheap rate from bulb
dealers. H. P.

Rhododendron Forsterianum. — This Rho-
dodendron, now flowering most profusely in the
temperate house at Kew, produces the grandest
blooms of the many white-flowered hybrids that
we have in our gardens. Most of the varieties
here grown have been raised in this country, but
R. Forsterianum was obtained by M. Otto For-
ster between the Moulmein R. Veitchianum and
R. Edgeworthi. As might be expected from the
crossing of two such grand flowered species, the
blooms of this are very large, crisped at the edges,
but not to the same extent as in the best forms of
R. Veitchianum, while the yellow blotch on the
upper portion of the interior of the flower is more
in the way of R. Edgeworthi. The foliage is
about intermediate between that of the two
parents, while the habit of the plant during its

after their first season in this country. Under the
specific name of Kalbreyeri this was figured in
The Garden November 15, 1879, about which
time or a year or two later vast importations
were disposed of in this country, so that it was
for a little while very generally met with. A
coloured plate of a second species — H. coccineus —
was given in The Garden July 15, 1893. This,
which flowers in the autumn after the leaves have
died off, is, unlike the last, very amenable to cul-
tivation, and is a good greenhouse plant. — H. P.

OLD PLANTS OF CROTONS.

I have a number of very large and old Crotons
here. Could I moss the stems, as in the case of
Dracanas, with any hope of succeeding in getting
them to root, or could you suggest a better way ?
— A. C.

*.* A deal would depend upon the condition of
the plants. I have had to do with such plants
and managed to overcome the difficulty. One va-
riety dealt with was C. variegatum, which for
several years had grown on and on until it was a
straggling plant ; the only remedy at a glance
would have been pronounced to be that of severe
pruning. To do this, as in the querist's case,
would have been inadvisable, because within three
i months the plant in question was wanted for

April 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

295

exhibition. A stout iron hoop about 3 feet in
diameter was fixed just above the rim of the pot.
Tying was then commenced without adding any
more sticks than those already inserted to hold
the hoop. The shoots being long were easily
twisted down, overlapped or intersected, and in
duo course, by the use of string only, a very
thapely pyramidal specimen was built up, which
when finished could scarcely be recognised as the
former plant. Old Croton wood such as that in
the plant in question will bear a lot of twisting
about, almost like that of a Willow bough, the
splitting of the joints being guarded against as a
matter of course. If the plants that it is now de-
sirous to deal with are such as the one just de-
scribed, it will be a very good way out of the
difficulty. A well-furnished pyramidal plant of a
Croton presents in my opinion a far more attrac-
tive form than the dense bush plants so often seen.
Possibly the plants in question may be very tall
in proportion to their width ; if so, the pyramidal
form, but of less diameter at the base, can still be
adopted. Again, if quite bare below, so that it
would not be possible to furnish the bottom, a kind
of standard or semi-standard form could be worked
out. The long, narrow-leaved Crotons make beau-
tiful standard plants. In one or other of these
ways it would thus be possible to make good use
of the best of these old plants unless they are
quite beyond such manipulation as that suggested.
Even if the best plants were so treated it would
be a point gained ; then the others could be
partially pruned if not too bad, or severe pruning,
if that bo the case, could be practised, so as in due
course to so overcome the difficulty of being "an
eyesore." The pruning if done should be attended
to at once, first letting the plants dry up at the
roots so as to prevent in some measure the bleed-
ing that must ensue.

It would be a doubtful process to try to re-
s'tore the plants by binding Moss around the
stems, but any likely looking shoots for cuttings
rould be so treated, first notching tho stem below
and afterwards gradually severing it. This is a
very good mode of increase where there is no
bottom-heat at command to ensure rapid root-
action, as when the ordinary means of increase by
cuttings is adopted. Although not stated in the
letter of inquiry, it is just within the bounds of
I mbability that the plants are overpotted. If
this be the case, it might be stated that the old
balls may be reduced with safety ; such a treat-
ment would greatly help in course of time to
restore the plants to health and vigour. Mean-
while, by paying every attention to young stock
woiked up from the old stools it will not take a
great length of time to have sufficient of these to
gradually replace the worst of the old plants. —
Plantsman.

SOC ETIES AND EXHIBITIONS.

KOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
April 23.
No previous exhibition in the Drill Hall has been
so interesting as that held on Tuesday last. It is
pleasing to record an excellent attendance of
Fellows and others by whom the exhibits were
evidently greatly appreciated. The hall was
filled to its utmost capacity in every part, leaving
none too much room for the inspection of the pro-
ductions. Such a show as this held in the society's
own gardens at Chiswick would be in congenial
surroundings, but the exigencies of the times tend
lather towards bringing the products as near as
possible to the visitors rather than the latter
taking a journey to inspect them, as in the old
days of Chiswick, the gardens of which have pos-
t-ibly never been visited by one half of the present
Fellows.

Every department was fully represented on this
occasion both as regards hardy flowers and tender
exotics, the former being in greater numbers. Of
these hardy flowers, the Daffodils were staged in
surprising variety and of the best possible quality,

the colour in several instances seeming to be
richer even than usual ; hardy Primroses and
species of the Primula were likewise staged in
largo numbers. Most notable of the Daffodils
were the large collections from the trade growers,
Messrs. Barr and Son and Mr. Thos. Ware, and
from such well known amateurs as Rev. Mr.
Engleheart and Mr. Bourne, the former with his
own seedlings and the latter with the choicest
named kinds in commerce. A most worthy and
instructive exhibit came from the Hardy Plant
Nursery, Guildford, comprising Primulas of
several species with other early flowers, including
alpines ; these were set up in a really artistic
and natural manner amid pieces of stone, the
mossy Saxifrages thus showing to the best pos-
sible effect, the whole forming an example that
many conservative exhibitors of the old type
would do well to imitate. The Primroses shown
represented the finest forms from such well-known
raisers as Mr. G. F. Wilson and Mr. R. Dean,
than which nothing better could be desired. The
Auriculas are always in strong force at this meet-
ing, but the impression given was that no real
advance is being made. Roses were exceed-
ingly fine, never better in April ; not less than
thirty large boxes came from such well-known
growers as Messrs. F. Cant, Mount, Rumsey,
and Walker ; whilst of plants there was a
grand bank from Mr. Rumsey and a smaller
collection from Messrs. Paul and Son. Mr. H.
B. May had Crimson Pambler Rose in good
form, also one of his characteristic exhibits of
Ferns. Amaryllises again came from Messrs. B. S.
Williams and Son, representing their excellent
strain ; whilst from Waltham Cross Messrs. W.
Paul and Son sent examples of Evergreens and
Conifers; showing the effects of the recent severe
winter. The exhibits before the Orchid com-
mittee were again numerous, both Chelsea and
St. Albans contributing choice groups to the dis-
play ; whilst several botanical curiosities came
from Tring Park and Burford Lodge. The one
Orchid in strongest force was no doubt Cattleya
Schnodera? in several exhibits, but of Cypripedium
Rothschildianum (or otherwise C. Elliottianum)
there were some fine examples contributed. The
labours of the fruit and vegetable committee were
again light, the best exhibits being the vegetables
and early Grapes from Syon House, first-rate
examples of table produce, and the Radishes and
Kales from the Reading firm. The first Melon
made its appearance in The Countess, a splendid-
looking fruit for so early in the season.
Orchid Committee.

First-class certificates were given to —

L^lio-Cattleya Epicasta (Cattleya Warsce-
wiczi x L. pumila). — This, beyond doubt, is one of
the most chaste and beautiful bi-generic hybrids
yet raised, the growth quite intermediate ; so also
is the flower, the sepals and petals of which are
of a deep purplish mauve, the former being in a
measure narrow, but the latter, on the other hand,
very broad. The labellum is tipped with a much
deeper shade of the same colour, almost bordering
on that of pure purple, whilst the inner portion
has a broad base of creamy white. From Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chel-
sea.

Cattleya citkina, which, to the surprise of a
great number present, had not previously received
this well-merited distinction. The example in
question was an excellent one, both from point of
variety and cultivation, having two large, massive
blooms of rich lemon-yellow colour deliciously
perfumed. This Cattleya comes from Mexico,
having been introduced as long ago as 1838.
From Mr. H. Grinling, Harrow Weald, Stanmore.

Awards of merit were given to —

Dendrobium fimbriatum superbum, in every
sense a markedly superior form of this species
both in respect to the richer shading, tending to-
wards deep buff in the sepals and petals, whilst
the labellum was also not only larger, but of a
deeper shade, having also the beautiful mossy
fringe strongly en evidence. From Mr. G. Mar-
shall, Claremont House, Grimsby.

Lycaste trifoliata Lehmanni. — A singular, yet
pleasing form with greenish white sepals, the
petals nearly pure white, the lip being deeply
fimbriated. The plant shown bore several flowers.
From Messrs. W. L. Lewis and Co., Southgate.

Cypripedium Gowerianum magntmcom. — A
very fine form of the type, itself a hybrid closoly
allied to C. Lawrenceanum, which it much re-
sembles in contour and growth, having the dorsal
sepal veined wtth maroon on a vinous purple
ground and margined with white, the petals
being densely spotted with maroon on a pale green
ground, thus pointing to C. Curtisi as its other
possible parent. From Mr. F. Hardy, Ashton-on-
Mersey.

Dendrobium Hilpebrandi — A new species from
Burmah with the lip as its chief feature, this
being of a clouded sulphur-yellow tinged with
green, the same shades, only paler, running into
the S9pals and petals, which have a faint tinge of
purple on the reverse, but are otherwise white ;
the flowers are of medium siz?, the growth strong,
sturdy and eiect. From Baron Schneder's collec-
tion, The Dell, Egham.

Botanical certificates were awarded to the follow-
ing : Habenaria Bonatea, an interesting if not
beautiful Orchid with pure pale green sepals and
petals, and a whito lip four times divided, the
spike being stout and erect ; from Messrs. F.
Sander and Co., St. Albans ; Polystachya Ottoni-
ana, a very pleasing plant of quite miniature
growth, bearing a profusion of small white flowers
with traces of pale purple, each bloom appearing,
as it were, to be inverted ; from Sir Trevor
Lawrence's collection ; Masdevallia fragrans,
which may possibly only prove to be an older
species under a different name ; the flowers are of
a pale greenish-yellow and decidedly fragrant ;
from the same source as the last ; and Lycaste
gigantea, with large greenish-yellow flowers and
a snuff coloured lip, deeply fringed : from Mr.
Walter C. Walker, Winchmore Hill, N.

Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons had an extensive
group, which consisted of several of their own
choice hybrids as well as other good things.
Odontoglossums were represented by 0. cirrho-
sum, of which a very fine example with three
dense spikes, bearing as many as eight branches
to each, being covered with flowers (worthy of a
cultural commendation); 0. hastilabium, with a
tall branching spike, in excellent condition, and
O. Pescatorei. Oncidium concolor, one of the
best of the dwarf species, had three good spikes.
Of Cattleyas there were C. Schnederse, rich in
colour, C. Schilleriana, a lovely dwarf species,
very distinct, and a good form of C. Trianaj.
Lselio - Cattleya Epicasta has been described.
Lselia Latona was again shown, being, if possible,
of a richer shade of orange-yellow. L. purpurata
was also staged in good form, also L. Schilleriana,
a species seldom seen ; it has large flowers with
white sepals and petals slightly flushed, the lip
being bright purple, the growth tall (this mu.-t
not be confounded in any way with Cattleya
Schilleriana, which is quite distinct). Of Cy-
pripediums there were C ciliolare; C. Creon, with
dark lustrous flowers ; C. Haynaldianum, a very
distinct and well-defined species, with many
flowered spikes : C. Brysa, after C. Sedeni, but
larger and of distinct colour. Of Masdevallias
tfiere were to be seen the original and true M.
coccinea, which later on was known as M. Lindeni
of gardens ; M. Veitchi with large blooms, and
M. ignea in profuse flower. Other good thing-s
comprised a lovely white Cattleya Mendeli with
the labellum comparable to C. Mossia; Reineck-
iana ; also Dendrobium Phahenopsis Schrceder-
ianum, with deep vinous purple flowers, and D.
crepidatum, the deep golden lip of which was very
conspicuous. Maxillaria Sanderiana bore two very
fine flowers and as many buds (a sturdy plant).
Cymbidium Lowianum, wilh the good old Onci-
dium ampliatum majus were also sent (silver
Flora medal). Messrs. F. Sander and Co. had
another choice and varied group, comprising a
grand plant of Dendrobium Augusta; Victoria?, a
species from Northern Guinea, of tall majestic
growth, bearing several erect, many-flowered

2(6

THE GARDEN

[Ai

1895.

spikes of white flowers; Dendrobium thyrsiflorum,
bearing very dense spikes of deep colour ; Epi-
dendrum nemorale, a charming and very distinct
species with large pale rosy lilac flowers densely
clustered at the apex of the spike; Thunia Bry-
meriana, with the purest possible white flowers,
the lip bearing faint lines of pale lilac, the plants
very robust. OdontoglosEum crispum, two very
superior forms, void of spots, but faintly flushed
with pale rose, the sepals and petals broad ;
O. crispum roseum, a well - defined variety
with a deep rosy suffusion; O. cirrhosum;
O. hystrix nobile, with large blossoms of fine
form and colour ; Cypripedium macrochilum,
bearing two grand blooms ; Odontoglossum Pes-
catorei, a pure white form ; O. triumphans, of
large size and deep colour ; Cypripedium macro-
pterum, a hybrid, showing traces of C. Lowianum
or C. hir8utissimum, were also sent. Oncidium
Rogersi, Masdevallia Veitchi, Oncidium sarcodes,
Cattleya Sehrcedera?, Co?logyne Dayana with two
long spikes, C. tomentosa, a distinct species with
terracotta coloured sepals and petals, and Laelio-
Cattleya Frederick Boyle, a pleasing hybrid with
white sepals petals and the lip lightly veined
with rosy purple, were also included (awarded
silver Flora medal).

Messrs. W. L. Lewis and Co. also exhibited a
large and excellent group, which comprised several
well-developed varieties of Laslia purpurata, both
light and dark coloured, showing considerable
variation ; Odontoglossum triumphans, of which a
grand form was staged with large massive blooms
of dark colour, the sepals and petals unusually
broad ; and 0. luteo-purpureum, a good variety
of which was included. O. crispum was repre-
sented by a pure white variety with beautifully
fimbriated flowers. O. Andersonianum album and
0. Pescatorei Lewisi were both capital varieties of
the types, the latter being void of spots on the
sepals and petals, but with unusually dark mark-
ings on the lip. The good old Lcptotes bicolor
was in capital condition. Cattleya Lawrenceana
and Lycaste inodora were both included (awarded
silver Flora medal). Messrs. H. Low and Co.
showed a good group, in which was a very fine
form of Cattleya Mossia;, with the lip of unusual
size and of rich colouring (of this species the firm
in question possess a very choice variety), the rich
golden colour of the lip in this instance partaking
somewhat after C. aurea. C. Mendeli was also repre-
sented t>y a very fine form with a broad, bright
crimson-purple lip ; C. Schilleriana was also to be
seen, a lovely Cattleya ; also C. Schrteder*. Of
Cymbidium Lowianum, an unusually fine variety
was staged, the sepals and petals being of a richer
shade of yellow with as many as twenty-four
flowers to the spike, of which there were three.
Odontoglossum AndersonianumandO. triumphans,
with Vanda Bensona?, were also included (awarded
silver Banksian medal).

Mr. Pitt, Stamford Hill, showed a nicely-
grown collection of well-flowered plants, amongst
which were several Dendrobium thyrsiflorum in
good condition with large spikes. Cymbidium
Lowianum was also in good form ; likewise Cat-
tleya citrina and Dendrobium aggregatum majus,
with large rich yellow flowers supported on quite
slender spikes. Epidendrum atropurpureum of
deep colouring, and its white variety with paler
sepals and petals and the lip of the purest white';
Miltonia Roezli, with large flowers ; Ada au-
rantiaca and Angrrecum Sanderianum, both in
good condition ; Cattleya Mendeli, an extra fine
variety ; C. Lawrenceana and C. Sehrcedera;,
Cypripedium Rothschildianum, a good plant ;
Ornithocephalus grandiflorus, very singular ;
Odontoglossum Ruckerianum and O. nebulosum
candidulum, with a fine example of Phaius Wal-
lichi, with dark lustrous chocolate flowers, the lip
being white, with other good things were also
sent (awarded silver Flora medal). Mr. R. J. Mea-
sures, Cambridge Lodge, Camberwell, showed a
beautiful assortment of Vanda tricolor, showing
great diversity of colouring and of size ; also V.
suavis, with strong spikes, this species, as is its
wont, not varying to any extent. Angracum
Sanderianum was represented by a very long

spike, and Cattleya Loddigesi by well-developed
flowers (awarded silver Banksian medal). Messrs.
Heath and Son, Cheltenham, showed several
fine healthy masses of Cattleya Schnedera;,
one named magnifica being particularly fine, the
lip in this instance being very broad and deeply
coloured, a soft blush suffusing the sepals and
petals. This plant bore twenty splendid flowers.
Other good forms of this beautiful Cattleya
were included. Odontoglossum crispum was re-
presented by a very distinct form, with crimson
blotches, and Phah-enopsis amabilis by a large-
flowered variety, the one spike bearing three fine
blooms (awarded silver Banksian medal). Messrs.
B. S. Williams and Son had Cymbidium Devoni-
anum, Cattleya Schnederre and Ccelogyne Massan-
geana, all in good character ; also an exceedingly
fine form of Dendrobium Wardianum, with flowers
5 inches across, having very broad petals and a
large rotund lip with the inner portion of a deep
golden yellow, being one of the finest forms yet
seen. Odontoglossum crispum was shown well,
and so was Cypripedium Exul, with well marked
flowers, the spots on the dorsal sepal being quite
black. C. Rothschildianum and C. vexillarium
were both shown well, the latter clearly showing
its relation to C. Fairrieanum. Dendrobium super-
bum was well flowered, and so was a very healthy
piece of Chysis bractescens, with very pure blos-
soms. Cypripedium Chamberlainianum was in-
cluded, being of good colour (awarded silver
Banksian medal).

Of other exhibits, Baron Schrceder had La?lia
Digbyana Mossia?, one of the most beautiful and
unique of hybrid Orchids, being one of the greatest
triumphs of the Veitchian firm in this direction.
Two choice Dendrobes came from the same source.
Mr. McMeekin, Falkland Park, Norwood, had a
very distinct and superior form of Odontoglossum
Andersonianum with a clear groundcolour spotted
with pale chocolate, the spike a good one. O.
Wilckeanum with O. Halli, both capital spikes,
and O. cirrhosum came from the same source.
Mr. Appleton, Weston-super-Mare, had Epiden-
drum atropurpureum album, in which the lip is
of the purest white, and the sepals and petals
much paler than in the type, the purple having
almost vanished. Cattleya Schilleriana and Cy-
pripedium niveum came from the same exhibitor.
Mr. F. Hardy showed Cypripedium Godefroya?
(Hardy's var.), not unlike a. small C. beliatulum.
Odontoglossum nebulosum candidulum and O. n.
candidum, two distinct forms, were included
here, as well as O. Ruckerianum Mis. F. Hardy,
a choice form, with deep crimson spots on a
light ground. Sir Trevor Lawrence had two
splendid examples of Masdevallia Armini in most
profuse flower ; this is quite a gem amongst
the small forms. A cultural commendation was
awarded. Eria a>ridostachya, a very singular
Orchid with graceful spikes of small greenish
yellow flowers, and Eria species, with much
larger flowers, more in the way of the smaller
Cymbidiums, were included, as well as a finely
flowered example of Dendrobium cretaceum with
pure white blossoms, save the lip, which is of a
creamy shade and of a downy character. Mr.
Walker had a grand variety of Cattleja Men-
deli called Walkeriana, with large flowers of
deep colouring, the lip being exceedingly showy,
the bright purplish crimson extending into the
throat. Other varieties of this species came from
this source also two splendid flowers of Cypripe-
dium caudatum with the tail-like petals fully 2
feet long. Dendrobium McCarthia?, a species
seldom exhibited, was also staged in line condition,
the plant being only a small one. A long spike of
Vanda Amesiana with nineteen flowers was also
sent. From Mr. Statter on this occasion came
Cattleya Prince of Wales (hyb.), C. Mossia-
Reineckiana being one of the parents, in which the
lip was delicately veined with light purple, the
sepals and petals being milky white.

A most noteworthy exhibit, from the fact of its
having been sent from Rome, was to be seen from
the Prince di Venose's gardens in Cypripedium
Prince di Venose (C. villosum x C. Lowianum),
in which the former parent had borne a pre-

ponderating influence, trscesof the other parent
being chiefly seen in tie petals. Major Joicey,
Sunningdale Park, sent a well-grown plant of
Dendrobium atro-violaceum with three spikes of
extra large flowers, and another of Cypripedium
Rothschildianum with two grand spikes, much
finer than usual. To both of these a cultural
commendation was awarded. Phaius Blumei assa-
micus, with very dark sepals and petals, came from
this exhibitor also. Mr. Lionel Crawshay had
Odontoglossum mulus (Rosefield var. ) with long
spikes of flowers. From Mr. G. Marshall, Clare-
mont House, Grimsby, came Dendrobium chryso-
toxum giganteum, a truly gigantic form of this
beautiful species, three long spikes of which were
shown, the flowers being of specially rich colour.
Odontoglossum maculosum and Cattleya Loddigesi
came from th is sou rce also, as well as Odon toglossum
Andersonianum Victoria, an excellent form with
broad sepals and petals. O. Halli was specially
good, and so were O. Marshalli and a form of O.
Andersonianum. O. crispum superbum, with large
pure flowers void of spotting, and O. baphicanthum,
best described as a large O. Andersonianum, with
two grand spikes of richly coloured flowers of
L*lia cinnabarina with fourteen and fifteen flowers
and buds respectively to each, were likewise com-
prised in this exhibit.

Floral Committee.

Awards of merit were made to the following : —

Pteris cretica Wimsetti. — Another crested
variety of this variable fern, but quite distinct
from the several forms already obtained, in which
all the crests are terminal. This kind, in addi-
tion to its crest at the end of its long narrow
leaflets, has lateral-crested leaflets as well, whilst
the habit of growth is tall and graceful. Shown
by Mr. H. B. May, Dyson's Lane, Edmonton.

Trof^eolum Coolgardie. — A basket of neat
pyramidal specimens of this variety was shown.
Its flowers are rich self -yellow, bright in colour,
and freely borne. From Mr. H. B. May.

Rose Marchioness of Londonderry. — A new
Hybrid Perpetual variety well shown last year. It
has full, well-formed white flowers of great size
and substance, borne erect on a strong footstalk.
From Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt.

Rose Bridesmaid. — One of the now numerous
sports of that good old TeaRoseCatherineMermet;
flowers of the same fine form as those of the parent,
but deeper in colour, and keeping the bright pink
hue, whereas those of C. Mermet fade with age.
This also came from Messrs. Paul & Son.

Bougainvillea sfeciosa superba. — A variety
of this handsome shy-flowering species, with
flowers much deeper in colour than those of the
type, specimens of which were sent for comparison.
From Mr. G. Stanton, gardener to Mrs. Nobbs,
Park Place, Henley-on-Thames.

Polyanthus Hermand. — A fine variety belong-
ing to the bunch flowered race, with a bold truss
on a stout stalk, the flowers considerably larger
than those of other blue Primroses, and of a deep
violet blue colour more effective by far than the
lighter tinted kinds. Shown by Mr. G. F. Wilson,
Heatherbank, Weybridge.

Andromeda Formosa, from Mrs. Ramsden,
Guildford, could not be found, so no description
can be given.

Daffodils were ejuite the leading feature, a very
fine group being exhibited by Messrs. Barr and
Son. This included the best varieties in all sec-
tions. Of the trumpet-flowered kinds, Emperor,
Empress, and Horsfieldi were prominent among
older varieties, whilst Glory of Leyden, Weardale
Perfection, and Mme. de Graaf, three noble new
kinds well shown, are sure to be largely grown in
the future. J. B. M. Camm, a pale cream-coloured
variety, has a flower of good substance. Of star-
flowered varieties, Barri conspicuus, with rich
edged corona, Orphee, C. J. Backhouse, bright
orange - yellow, Maurice Vilmorin, and Crown
Prince were all fine. The Leedsi varieties were
well represented by Ceres, a graceful drooping
flower, Superbus, with a long sulphur corona,
Beatrice, Fanny Mason, and Duchess of West-
minster, one of the largest and finest of this

April 27, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

297

race. Muscaris in several forms were also
shown, M. conic am being one of the best, earliest,
and most distinct, with long, conical spikes of
deep blue flowers. A silver Flora medal was
awarded. Mr. T. S. Ware, of Tottenham, re-
ceived a similar award for a large group consist-
ing chiefly of Daffodils, the arrangement excellent,
each kind when several bunches were shown
being massed together, a better way by far
than the indiscriminate mixing. Emperor and
Empress were good, Princess Ida charming, with
pale sulphur trumpet, and Barri conspicuus, very
effective in quantity. The Leedsi varieties were
largely represented, Catherine Spurrel especially
fine with broad perianth segments and clear yellow
corona, Superbus, Grand Duchess, and Beatrice
being also good. Among the poeticus varieties,
ornatus and poetarum were good. Dielytra spec-
tabilis at the back and Anemone fulgens as a
margin in front enhanced the effect of the group.
Seedling Daffodils from the Rev. G. H. Engleheait
were a most interesting lot, the finest of them all
that named Ellen Willmott. The flower is even
larger than that of Weardale Peifection, some-
what similar in colour with pale cream petals and
rich yellow trumpet, which is short but unusually
broad, with a gracefully recurved fringed edge,
altogether a noble flower, large without beingcoarse
Norma and Sir Evan were both fine, with pale
creamy petals and trumpets in different shades of
yellow. Two deeply coloured seedlings from
princeps were of a rich self-yellow shade, as rich
in colour as maximus. If they retain the other
merits of the parent they will be decided acquisi-
tions. Princess Mary, of the poeticus type, with
broad pure white petals and a shallow sulphur
corona, was fine, and Torch was a very bright
star-flowered variety, with gracefully twisted
petals and long crown edged with the brightest
orange. Dorothy Yorke, of the same race, with
broad shallow corona and pale yellow petals was
good. Many unnamed sorts were shown from
different crosses, showing that the possibilities
of multiplication of varieties are practically un-
limited. A silver Banksian medal was awarded.
Roses, both in pots and as cut blooms, were
largely shown, Mr. W. Rumsey, of Joyning's
Nurseries, Waltham Cross, receiving a silver-gilt
Flora medal for a large collection of specimen
plants in pots, including Souvenir d'un Ami,
Niphetos, Mme. Hoste, LTdeal, General Jacque-
minot, Marquise de Castellane, and Magna
t'harta, all in fine form, and cut flowers in quan-
tity, of Niphetos, The Bride, Souvenir d'un Ami,
Souvenir de S. A. Prince, Martchal Niel,
and other well-known kinds. Messrs. Paul,
Cheshunt, showed Roses in pots, Elise
Fugier, like a pale cream Niphetos, being
noteworthy. Mme. Hoste, Catheiine Mermet,
Bridesmaid, Clara Watson, Marchioness of Lon-
donderry, Danmark, Paul's Early Blush, Gustave
Piganeau, Jeannie Dickson, and Carmine Pillar,
all new or comparatively recent kinds, were well
shown. A group of Cannas also contained some
nice kinds as Progression, fine yellow with dark
spots, Cheshunt Yellow, a rich self, and Tom
Thumb, a dwarf kind with red yellow-edged
flowers. A silver Flora medal was awarded. Mr.
F. Cant, of Colchester, staged a fine lot of cut
Roses, both Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, Ethel
Brownlow, Mme. Hoste, and Mme. Cusin of the
former, and Mrs. John Laing and Caroline
Testout of the latter being the finest. A silver
Flora medal was awarded. Mr. G. Mount, of
Canterbury, received a similar award for a good
collection of cut Roses, chiefly Teas, showing
boxes of such grand kinds as Catherine Mermet,
The Bride, Niphetos, and Marcchal Niel, with
numerous other varieties in smaller numbers. Mr.
J. Walker, Thame, Oxon, showed Roses Marechal
Niel and Niphetos in large quantity, the flowers
very fine. ^ He received a silver Banksian medal,
Mr. J. C. Tasker, of Brentwood, receiving a
similar award for a group of pot Roses arranged
with Azalea mollis and Adiantums. The
group of hardy flowers chiefly Primulas from
the Guildford Hardy Plant Company was most
interesting and instructive, the method of ar-

rangement so natural, and a great advance upon
the conventional way of showing things. Choice
and lovely alpine Primulas nestled among little
rocks just as they might in their mountain home.
P. nivalis was covered with its snowy clusters of
flowers, and P. marginata in several forms was
beautiful, its white margined tufts of leaves as
pretty as its clusters of pale mauve flowers. P.
auricula, P. ciliata in variety, P. mollis, P. den-
ticulata, P. farinosa, and numerous other rare and
pretty kinds were shown, also Androsaces, Solda-
nellas, Epimedium niveum, Trillium erectum, and
a fine specimen of Haberlea rhodopensis. A silver
Flora medal was awarded. Mr. G. Jackman, of
Woking, was awarded a bronze Flora medal for a
pretty mixed group of Daffodils, tufted Pansies,
double Primroses in six distinct kinds, Primulas in
variety, and other interesting hardy flowers. A
large group of Ferns, Palms, and other fine foliaged
plants from Mr. H. B. May, Dyson's Lane, Edmon-
ton, received a silver Flora medal. The crested
and other forms of Pteris were well represented,
also AdiantumFarleyense. Tropajolum Coolgardie,
previously described, and two well-flowered speci-
mens of Rose Crimson Rambler were conspicuous.
Mr. B S. Williams, of Upper Holloway, showed a
group of Amaryllises, the best kinds Empress of
India and President Faure, deep crimson, Colonel
Kelly and Lord Valentin, light red, and Dr. Koch,
white feathered with red. A fine lot of Leschen-
aul'.ia was also shown, a bronze Flora medal beiig
awarded. Mr. Reynolds, of Gunnersbury Park
Gardens, received a bronze Banksian medal for an
excellent group of Primula obconica, the plants
most profusely bloomed, the trusses and flowers
individually of large size ; a really fine exhibit of
this well-known plant.

From the Royal Gardens, Kew, came a group
containing many species of Primula, rare and
well known kinds, Androsaces, several pretty little
species ; Amherstia nobilis, cut specimens of this
showy Indian tree noted elsewhere, and Cineraria
cruenta, a pretty species with small flowers in
large clusters covering the plant. Messrs. J.
Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, showed blue Primroses in
quantity, the varieties G. F. Wilson, John Gib-
son, Covenanter, and Elizabeth Brodie being all
of a blue shade, the last named with violet blue
flowers of a lich tone. Alyssum saxatile citri-
num, which received an Award of Merit last year,
was again well shown, the plants hidden in the
wealth of flowers which are lemon yellow and
much paler than those of the type. Mr. F.
Cornish, gardener to Lady Bowman, Joldwj'nds,
Dorking, was given a cultural commendation for
Epigeea repens, the plants shown pictures of
health, each shoot terminated by a cluster
of its sweet white flowers. Sir Trevor Law-
rence had some very fine Daffodils of the
varieties Emperor, Horsfieldi, and Sir Watkin,
also Piimula Forbesi and Primroses in variety.
Miss Mason, Norton Hall, Retford, showed the
Florentine form of Tulipa sylvestris, Soldanellas,
Androsace carnea and Anemone vernalis. Salix
lanata, sent by Mrs. Robb, Goldenfield, Liphook,
is a pretty Willow with woolly leaves and catkins.
Mr. McMeekin, Falkland Park, Norwood, sent two
seedling Rhododendrons, and from Messrs. W.
Paul & Son, of Waltham Cross, came a large
group of coniferous and other evergreen trees and
shrubs, " to show the effects of the frost, ': which,
as regards those shown, were of a negative char-
acter, only the tips of Laurustinus being browred,
whilst the common Laurel, that is in a deplorable
state nearly everywhere, was shown with leaves
scarcely discoloured.

The exhibits competing for Mr. Barr's special
Daffodil prizes were very fine indeed, and probably
no finer group has ever been staged than that from
the Rev. S. E. Bourne, Dunston Vicarage, Lincoln,
which was deservedly awarded first prize. There
were over 100 varieties, including all the finest,
Glory of Leyden being represented by a bunch of
eleven flowers, whilst Mme. Plemp and Mme. de
Graaf were well shown. Other trumpet kinds in-
cluded Emperor, Empress, Horsfieldi, P. R. Barr,
Michael Foster, Maximus, Queen of Spain,
Cernuus, Albicans, Tortuosus, and J. B. M.

Camm. The best of the yellow star varieties
were Figaro, Gwyther, Barri conspicuus, C. J.
Backhouse, Flora Wilson, Beauty, and Maurice
Vilmorin. In the Leedsi section Duchess of West-
minster was the best, Duchess of Brabant, Fanny
Mason, Palmerston, Catherine Spurrel, Minnie
Hume, and Beatrice all good, and of Burbidgei
varieties John Bain and J. Stevenson noteworthy.
A charming freshness characterised the whole lot.
Mr. J. T. Bennett Poe was second with an admir-
able lot, Mr. Cammell, of Billingshurst, third, and
Mr. W. J. Grant, Bassaleg, Newport, fourth.

Fruit Committee.

This was one of the most interesting meetings
held this year. The collections of Borecoles and
Radishes from Messrs. Sutton, Reading, deserve
more than passing notice after the severe winter.

A first-class certificate was awarded to —
Tomato All the Year Round, a very free-
growing variety, bearing large clusters of medium-
sized fruit, ten to twelve in a bunch, and of very
good flavour for the time of year. The fruit was
shown on stems cut from the plants, the growths
being 3 feet to 4 feet long, with eight to ten
bunches of fruit. This is certainly one of the most
prolific and free-setting varieties grown. From
Mr. W. Farr, The Gardens, Spring Grove House,
Isle worth.

Awards of merit were given to —

Improved Hearting Kale. — The name is well
merited, the examples being much superior to
other hearting varieties — firm, solid, beautifully
curled and of dwarf growth. From Messrs. Sutton
and Sons, Reading.

Earliest Frame Radish. — This is a distinct
break from the ordinary kind, earlier, of batter
shape than any of the Radishes we have for
forcing, and of a rich crimson colour. It is very
solid and grows to a nice size in a very short time.
Out of some two dozen sorts exhibited this was
noticeable for its colour and good qualities. From
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading.

Messrs. Sutton also contributed a very fine
collection of Kales, no less than twenty-four d's-
tinct variegated kinds being staged. The colours
ranged from dark purple to nearly white. The
useful Sutton's Favourite Kale was also well
shown, this being a hardy dwarf kind of As-
paragus Kale, of delicious flavour when cooked
and not running to seed till late in the spring.
Messrs. Sutton also sent no less than twenty va-
rieties of Radishes. These were staged in their
sections — the forcing and long-rooting kinds being
apart and forming a most instructive exhibi".
The red and white-tipped Turnip varieties and
Large Crimson were very fine. Among the
olive-shaped varieties mention must be made of
Sutton's Forcing, noted above ; Earliest of All,
the roots as large as a good Filbert with scarcely
any top ; Forcing Carmine, very dwarf and of
good colour ; Crimson Forcing, scarcely any top,
a grand forcing variety ; Fern-leaved, an oval
root with distinct Fern like leaves ; The Gem, or
White-tipped, a small root, but fine for salad ;
Golden Olive, a novelty for summer use ; Scarlet
Globe, a very fine type and of splendid quality ;
Long White and Long Rose, very handsome long-
rooting kinds and of excellent quality. Two very
fine Countess Melons were sent by Mr. Meads,
The Gardens, Buscot Park, Faringdon, Berks.
Mr. G. Wythes, The Gardens, Syon House, Brent-
ford, received a cultural award for a nice lot of
Foster's Seedling Grapes from year-old Vines.
The berries were well finished and of good flavour.
From the same exhibitor was sent a very fine lot
of new Potatoes, Sharpe's Victor, well meriting
the cultural award given. Mr. Wythes also sent
a very fine dish of Seakale ; this, grown in the
open ground, was merely covered with soil, and
was of very good quality. The Horticultural
College, Swanley, sent the new Royal Sovereign
Strawberry packed in market punnets, the fruit
very good, of excellent quality. From tho same
source were sent Sir Joseph Paxton Strawberries,
nice fruits and well coloured. Mr. Goldsmith,
Leonardslee Gardens, Horsham, sent his new

208

THE GARDEN

[April

1895.

Apple Burfield Seedling, a nice looking fruit of
great merit. This was thought to be a good
market fruit, and the grower was requested to
report on its cooking qualities next meeting,
many of the committee thinking it a valuable
keeping variety. From Messrs. B. S. Williams,
Ho! low ay, was sent a dwaif French Bean bear-
ing good-sized pods. The committee requested
it to be sent to Chiswick for trial.

Notes of the Week.

Iris orchioides. — We send you by post a few-
spikes of Iris orchioides cut from the open border,
where the bright yellow flowers have been a great
attraction for some time past. — R. W. Wallace.

Epimedium niveum is a charming little
species, shown on Tuesday. It has close tufts of
leaves and slender spikes of pure white flowers.
It is a gem for a choice spot in the rock garden.

Kr.Lunculus amplexicaulis was shown in
Mr. Jackman's interesting group at the Drill Hall.
It is a pretty species from the Pyrenees, with
(■lender stems each about 1 foot in height, bearing
large flowers of a pure white colour with a little
tuft of yellow stamens in the centre.

Primula mollis. — Among many Primulas at
the show on Tuesday this was conspicuous, a well-
grown example being shown by Mr. J. Douglas.
It has broad, Vine-like leaves, thickly covered
with soft hairs, and hairy flower-stems, which grow
about 1 foot high, with blooms of a deep rote
colour in several whorls.

Amherstia nobilis.— Some fire sprays of this
Tndian flowering treq were shown at the Drill
Hall on Tuesday from the Royal Gardens, Kew,
a nd at .traded much notice. The flowers are borne
in a long drooping raceme, and are of a soft
vermilion red colour. Large specimens in flower
must have a gorgeous effect.

Narcissus incomparabilis fl. - pi. pon-
derosus. — A remnant from an old Irish garden,
what is known as " Butter and Eggs," but in its
ponderous form. If the plants had had some rain
a month since the flowers would be a size larger.
It is quite the admiration of all visitors to Ard
Cairn, and so distinct. — W. Baylor Hartland,
Ard Cairn, Cork:

Tulipa praecox.— This fine early Tulip, now
flowering, although botanically not distinct from
T. oculussolis, is more robust and better in every
way. It has large, long petalled flowers, borne
on a strong, erect stem 1 foot high, of a soft red
shade externally, bright red inside, with con-
spicuous black blotches, margined with yellow at
the base.

Fritillar>a Kotschyana i ffinis.— This, as
shown by Mr Barr at the Drill Hall on Tuesday,
is a beautiful kind, and a welcome addition to a
family which, though numerous, does not contain
many species of much beauty in gardens. It will
be a charming companion to F. aurea, which it
resemlles in size and shape of flower, but its
colour is most distinct, a dark crimson externally,
blighter inside with yellow markings.

Pansy Blue Gown.— Dr. Stuart thinks this
is or.e of the best varieties he has raised, and
rightly so. It is one of the earliest kinds to flower
and a long, persistent bloomer. We have groups
of all the best varieties, but whilst most kinds as
yet have only a few flowers out, the group of Blue
Gown is already quite a mass of lovely colour. It
will certainly be a popular garden Pansy when
better known.

Hedysarum multijugum.— This delightful
flowering shrub, introduced from Northern China,
has proved perfectly hardy here at Exeter, and
should be in. every garden. It is deciduous and
prefers light soil in a sunny position, where it
attains about 1 yard in height when fully de-
veloped. The flowers, which appear about July,
are very freely produced and are in long, loose

racemes of deep purplish crimson colour. —
F. W. Meyer.

Carpenteria californica. — This fine shrub,
referred to in the last issue of The Garden, has
proved hardy at Exeter without any protection
during the past severe winter. During previous
winters it retained its green foliage all the year
round, but the present season has transformed it
into a deciduous shrub. The leaves, which were
shrivelled by the severe frost, have fallen off, and
the plant is rapidly making new growth. — M.

Ceresus sinensis pendula rosea. — This
highly ornamental flowering tree seems very little
known. Some very fine specimen standards are
now in full bloom at Messrs. Veitch's nursery,
Exeter, and present a lovely picture. The long
slender branches have a graceful drooping habit,
and are covered with bright pink blossoms re-
sembling those of Malus floribunda when seen
from a distance, but appearing much earlier than
those of that tree. — M.

Haberlea rhodopecsis was shown in fine
form at the Drill Hall on Tuesday by the Guild-
ford Hardy Plant Company, the specimen having
eighteen strong flower-spikes bearing from three
to five flowers each. The flowers are like those of
a small Gloxinia, of a pile lilac colour, deepening
to dark blue at the base. It has large, green,
hairy leaves, which form perfect rosettes, is quite
hardy and flourishes under conditions that suit
the Ramondia. A coloured plate of it was given
in The Garden of August 28, 1886.

Roses in the north. — While reading of the
great destruction of Roses by frost during the
past severe winter I do not see many which are
entirely destroyed. Those trained on arches have
suffered most. Dwarfs planted with the junction of
scion and stock well under the surface are little
the worse. I would like to hear how William
Allen Riohardson has stood. Here half-a dozen
plants, all of which were planted out, are killed.
One plant at the end of a cool Peach house, and
allow ed to grow almost wild, is loaded with flowers.
— M. Temple, Carron, N.B.

Tricuspidaria hexapetala (better known as
Crinodendron Hookerianum). — This fine evergreen
shrub has proved quite hardy in the gardens of
the Earl of Annesley at Gtastlewellan, and has
been flowering for the past few weeks. The large
campanulate flowers are of a rich carmine colour,
and remain on the plants for weeks before drop-
ping off. At Castlewellan it is growing in a shaded
border in peat and loam. The largest plant is
about 5 feet in height. In a less favoured climate
than Castlewellan it would be advisable to give a
little protection in very severe weather. — T. Ryan.

Franciscea Hopeana. — Mr. Hudson (p. 280)
has done well to call attention to this neglected
and almost unknown plant. I have a moderate-
sized specimen of it here which is now literally
covered with its sweet-scented flowers, and is
greatly admired. The peculiar way the flowers
have of changing colour makes it a very interesting
plant. I also have F. magnifica associated with it.
This also has been in bloom for weeks and is likely
to continue so for some time to come. What a pity
it is that these and other stove flowering shrubs
are not more generally grown. — J. Easter, 2\ostell
Priory Garden*.

Rhododendron fulgens. — I read with much
interest your note on this very beautiful shrub in
last week's Garden. Mr. James Bateman has
just flowered it most successfully in his garden at
Home Lodge, Worthing, within a few score yards
of the sea. One very large and one small head of
flower were in full beauty during Easter, and
were the produce of quite a small plant, which,
like that at Kew, has sustained no ill effects from
the past severe winter. This splendid plant is
figured in Sir Joseph Hooker's " Rhododendrons
of Sikkim Himalaya," plate xxv. , but even that
most carefully executed plate fails, in my opinion,
to convey an adequate impression of the richness
of the bloodied flowers. — W. Roberts.

Khodothamnus Chamsecistus (syn., Rhodo-
dendron Chamacistus). — This diminutive alpine

shrub has not suffered in the least from the severe
winter. In the rock garden at Messrs. Veitch's
nursery, Exeter, a pretty specimen is now in full
bloom. The flowers, large for so small a plant,
are of a lively pink colour and borne in clusters of
three, each individual bloom being fully an inch
in diameter. The plant in question was planted
about three years ago ; it is now scarcely 3 inches
in height and 6 inches in diameter, but its small
bright green leaves, which are deeply serrated,
are crowded so densely together as to represent a
compact evergreen cushion, which was in itself
an ornament all through the winter. The posi-
tion is a half shady one, and the soil, sandy peat
and loam, seems to suit it admirably. — M.

Erica carnea. — This charming little moi r
Heath is one of the very few species (even of our
native ones) that appear to have passed through
the recent winter without more or less injury — at
any rate, in the neighbourhood of London. F.
vagans and E. cinerea, both natives of Britain,
are badly cut back, but E. carnea, inhabiting
practically the same latitude, is scarcely affected.
It is a close-growing dwarf plant, which produces
its purple-red flowers in the greatest profusion
during the early spring months. This is a late
season and the neat tufts are now at their
brightest. As a plant for forming an edging to
borders or beds of American plants it has no supe-
rior. It may be planted in a formal strip, but a
much more pleasing effect is made by it in ir-
formal groups or masses of varying size and width.

A note from Liphook. — I send you a bunch
of mauve Primroses off a root I dug up on the
shores of the Bosphorus last year. They have
lit up the border here for some time past, and
the plant appears to bear more flowers here than
in its native wilds. The different shades caused
by the deep colour of the buds among the paler
expanded blossoms are striking in this species,
and it has been much admired. The severe
winter has been evidently a tonic to some things,
e q. , Daphne Blagayana and the Megaseas I have
never seen so full of bloom. In some years the
latter are mostly all leaf and little flower, now it
is, in fact, the reverse, and the pink blocm stands
up so tall and fine that people have wondered what
it could be until they came up close to the plant.
Saxifraga Malyi, Draba Brunoniana, Hydrangea
stellata, and Puschkinia litanotica have all been
remarkably gay. 1 wonder the last is notoftener
seen, as it is perfectly hardy and gcod-natured
and has a very fascinating effect in the early bleak
time of year. — M. A. R., Liphook:

Reports of shows. — The reports of the Royal
Botanic Society and the National Auricula Society
are unavoidably held over, and will appear in our
next issue.

The weather in West Herts. — A week of
very growing weather, both the days and nights
having been warm for the month. At 1 foot and also
at 2 feet deep the ground is now about 2° warmer
than at the t eginning of the week. At the depth
of 1 foot the temperature of the soil is at the
present time 5J° higher than the April average
for the previous nine years, and 2° warmer than
at the same time last year. Welcome rains have
fallen during the week to the aggregate depth of
nearly half an inch. A wild Cherry tree came
first into blossom in my garden on the 23rd inst. ,
which is its average date of flowering for the pre-
vious nine years, but three weeks later than last
year. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

Names of plants.— F. M— Probably Lreliopsis

domiiigensis. C. S. V.— Glonera jasminoides.

Thomas May.— Forsytliia suspensa. S. N. T. — 1,

Anemone apennina; 2, lianunculus anemonoides ; 3
and 5, Anemone blanda; 4, Dicentra exitnia; 6, Saxifraga

puri urea. Erin.— 1 and 3, Narcissus anrantius

plenus ; 4, N. incomparabilis variety ; 5, N. maximus ;
G and 11, single and double Jonquil ; S and II), forma
of Narcissus Tazetta ; 9, N. cermms ; 12, Sir Watkin ;
13, Horstieldi ; 14, IS. i riueeps ; 15. Tulipa floreitiiia.
Several ot the numbers bavins got detached , there was
no clue to the name. We only undertake to name four
varieties in one week.

THE GARDEN

299

No. 1224. SATURDAY, May 4, 1895. Vol. XLVII.

' This is an Ait
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare.

Orchids.

ONCIDIUM MACRANTHUM.

No one who has seen this Orchid in good con-
dition can fail to be struck with its beauty and
elegance, the richly-coloured flowers so jauntily
set upon the long branching scapes giving it a
most distinct appearance. It is, unfortunately,
too often the custom to tie these scapes round
and round stakes placed in the pots, thereby
quite dwarfing its beauty. To obtain the best
effect, this Oncidium when in flower must be
grouped with Palms or large Ferns, the flower-
scapes hanging loosely and naturally among the
foliage, the pots being, if possible, hidden from
view. This makes the most delightful back-
ground for a group of Orchids imaginable. Of
course, while the spikes are growing the)' need
some support, but this may usually be managed
by tying a string from a stake in the pot along
the roof, securing them loosely to this. This
does not cripple or bend the spikes unnaturally,
yet keeps them safe from injury in other ways.
Another way in which this Oncidium shows to
good effect is upon a shady wall lined with
Ferns, the plants being put in position at
the time of planting the Ftrns. This way
of growing Orchids is not much practised,
growers being apparently under the impres-
sion that the requisite attention cannot easily
be given without the usual pots, baskets,
or blocks. This is, however, a mistake, as I
have lately proved, and I hope to say a little
on this mode of culture shortly. O. macran-
thuni is comparatively easily grown, but a few
of the more salient points of its culture may
perhaps be noted with advantage. When com-
pared with the size of the pseudo-bulbs the
flower-scapes are very large, and in order to
produce and sustain them over a considerable
period the plants are called upon to put forth a
great deal of energy. To maintain this, they
naturally push strong feeding roots, which
must be carefully protected, as they are very
often emitted above the surface of the compost.
If the atmosphere were always congenial, pos-
sibly these would be quite as well left un-
covered, but with our best care there are times
when a lack of moisture or other essential will
occur and the roots may suffer. Insects, too,
are fond of these thick fleshy roots, and instinc-
tively find them if exposed. A little Moss
should be placed up to these roots, which should
be encouraged to push into and through it to
the compost below. If this is rough and light
with nothing of a sour, close character about it,
they will find ample sustenance among it and
the drainage, the health of the plants being im-
proved in a marked degree. O. macranthum
is a very restless Orchid, frequently growing
through the winter months, and for this reason
the plants should never be subjected to a very
low temperature or dried at the roots, neither
is this necessary to promote free-flowering, the
most vigorous plants being also the freest
flowering. No Orchid is more easily affected
by drought in the atmosphere, and if thrips are
introduced by this means the evil is intensified,
free growth being then out of the question.
Periodically immersing in water for an hour or
two and immediate spongings are advisable, the
insects by these means being driven from their

hiding-places in the compost. This, as hinted
above, should consist largely of charcoal and
potsherds, the layer of peat and Sphagnum being
only superficial. The climbing habit of this
species renders it necessary to set the base of the
plant rather low in the pot, filling up to around
it with the crocks and charcoal. The tempera-
ture advised for the warmer section of Odonto-
glossums will suit it admirably, and during sum-
mer the plants must be somewhat heavily
shaded. The flowers of a good typical form
would be about 4 inches across. The sepals and
petals are narrow at the base, becoming nearly
round, crisped and wavy at the edges. The
former are brownish yellow, the latter deep
golden yellow ; the lip small, singular in shape
and colour, with a prominent raised crest. In-
troduced from New Grenada in 18(>7, it now
takes a high position in this splendid genus, and
when well grown is one of the most magnificent
< >rchids in existence. H. R.

GONGORAS.
Although not commonly grown, the dozen or
more species belonging to this genus are very
interesting Orchids, many of them extremely
free-flowering, the blossoms being in nearly all
cases fragrant. They are all epiphytal pseudo-
bulbous Orchids, easily grown in the Cattleya
house or in an ordinary plant stove. The
strong-growing kinds thrive in rather large
baskets or suspended pots, their pendent ra-
cemes showing to advantage in this way. The
compost for these may consist of equal parts of
peat and Sphagnum Moss and a little charcoal.
Abundance of water is required during the
summer, and the syringe must be freely plied
about the plants to keep red spider in check,
this pest soon disfiguring the foliage if left un-
disturbed. During winter they must be kept
rather drier at the root and given a light and
airy position. The temperature must, how-
ever, be kept fairly high and rather moist, as
the plants are susceptible to injury from cold
or drought, a kind of black spot attacking the
leaves and pseudo-bulbs, which is very dis-
figuring. Scale is occasionally troublesome, and
must be kept in check by sponging, this also
improving the appearance and health of the
foliage if carefully done.

G. atro-purpurea is perhaps the most generally
grown, and a very free-flowering species. The
blossoms are produced on long pendent racemes
from the base of the pseudo-bulbs, which are
light green, deeply ribbed, and each bears a pair
of lanceolate leaves. It is a native of Trinidad,
and frequently flowers all through the summer
and autumn, as soon as one spike is over another
being produced. About a dozen deep reddish-
brown, profusely-spotted flowers are usually pro-
duced on each raceme.

G. bufonia (the Toad-skinned Orchid) is a
singular and variable species, the pseudo-bulbs
and leaves very light green ; the racemes are long
and pendent, the flowers dull brownish purple.
The variety major has larger flowers, while leu-
cochila is much lighter, with a white lip. These
are all natives of Brazil, and flower in spring and
early summer. A species named

G. Charlesworthi was introduced by Messrs.
Charleaworth, Shuttleworth and Co., and ex-
hibited by them at the Temple show two years
aco. It is a strong growing kind, and has whitish
flowers with purple markings.

G. FULVA is a strong growing kind, the flowers
resembling those of G. bufonia, being produced on
long, elegant racemes. This and its variety vitel-
lina are said to be natives of Peru and ( luatemala.

G. odoratissima cames from Venezuela, and has
large flowers of a deep lemon-yellow, blotched
with red.

G. tricolor is a fine species, somewhat similar
to the last-named, but with a good deal of white
about the lip. It produces long pendent racemes
of flowers in early summer, and is a native of
Central America.

G. trimcalo is a native of Mexico, and has
pendent racemes of light yellow and purple-
spotted flowers, which at a little distance may
easily be taken for insects of some kind. The
perfume of this Orchid is greatly disliked by some
people, but tolerated by others.

There are several other species in this genus,
and amateurs and others who like peculiar and
grotesque flowers will find much in them to
admire, while the few simple details of culture
that are requisite need not deter the least
experienced. "•

ODONTOGLOSSUMS FOR AMATEURS.
The most suitable Orchids for amateurs with only
a limited amount of space at command are Odon-
toglossums. In this family may be found much
variety, whilst some kinds take a front rank
amongst Orchids. The majority are most suc-
cessfully grown with cool treatment in a tempe-
rature that ranges from about 45° to 7< f, the lowest
temperature being for the winter months, and
the other, or as near that as can be maintained,
during the summer ; the night temperature should
generally fall about 5° less than that stated.
Odontoglossums enjoy a considerable amount of
shade and moisture, but the light must not be ex-
cluded ; therefore it is advisable to have roller
blinds fixed so that they can be let down
when the sun is powerful. Water must be sup-
plied during the whole year, but much more is
needed both at the roots and in the atmo-
sphere in the summer months, when also a good
supply of fresh air will be found most bene-
ficial, care being taken to avoid cold draughts.
The pots should be well drained, clean, and not
too large for the plants, which should be potted
annually either early in autumn or early spring,
well elevating the plants above the rim, and using
a compost of about equal parts of fibrous peat and
Sphagnum Moss, with a few nodules of charcoal,
all well mixed together. Odontoglossums are
natives of Central and South America, most of
the species being found in New Grenada, Mexico,
and Costa Rica, where they always grow at con-
siderable elevations, seldom less than about 7' KK) ft.
above the sea level. Some of the most beautiful
and most easily grown kinds should find a place
in every collection, for they are not only very
useful for decorating the conservatories and
grouping with other plants, but their blooms
are serviceable for cutting. One of the most
popular Orchids is O. crispum and its numerous
varieties, which are extensively grown in every
country at the present time for market work, the
cut spikes being in great demand for coat flowers,
bouquets, &c. This kind is popularly known as
O. Alexandra-, and produces long arching ra-
cemes of many flowers at all eeasons of the
year. The flowers, measuring from 2J inches to
4 inches in diameter, range in colour from
pure white to a rosy mauve tint, and are
often more or less spotted with red. Dur-
ing recent years this kind has been extensively
imported, and may now be purchased at a
trifling cost. Another gorgeous kind is O. grande,
but it will not succeed under the treatment above
mentioned. It is a native of Guatemala, and
enjoys during the winter a warmer and some-
what drier temperature, similar to that at the
coolest end of the Cattleya house. It should be
given a more pronounced season of rest. The
flowers, the largest of any in the genus, measur-
ing fully 6 inches across, are of a bright yel-
low colour, the sepals and petals barred and
blotched with chestnut-red. 0 Rossi is a very
dwarf-growing species, producing its flowers in
abundance. These are usually white or of a pale
rosy shade, having the sepals and petals spotted
•with brown, the large lip being quite clear. Of
this kind there are many fine varieties now in

300

THE GARDEN

[May 4, 1895.

existence, and these succeed best when suspended
in shallow pans close to the roof. Similar treat-
ment is also best for 0. Cervantesi, another fine
dwarf species, with pure white flowers 2 inches
across, and having some broken lines of chocolate-
red running transversely around the base of each
sepal and petal. 0. triumphans produces its
flowers freely during the early months of the
year. They are golden yellow, spotted and
barred with cinnamon-brown, the fine white lip
having also a large blotch of the same colour. Of
Odontoglossum luteo - purpureum, probably the
most variable species, we have quite a large num-
ber of forms. All, however, are worth growing,
as they produce long racemes of flowers and
are very showy. The ground colour in most in-
stances is yellow, with blotches and spots of deep
brown. This is found in its natural habitat
growing in the same districts as 0. crispum, at
about 8000 feet or 9000 feet altitude, and much
resembles the latter when not in bloom, but is
generally of somewhat larger dimensions. These
with many others should tind great favour with
amateurs on account of their simple requirements
and great beauty, especially as they can be grown
at much less cost than many of the East Indian
and other heat-loving plants. A few more desir-
able kinds that can be mentioned are O. polyxan-
thum, O. Insleayi, O. maculatum, O. bictonense,
and O. citrosmum. The last is one of the most
distinct kinds known and another exception to
the general rule, requiring the heat of the Cattleya
house, with plenty of airand light shading. When
at rest it must be kept quite dry, even if the bulbs
shrivel. This will cause the plants to bloom more
freely, and the pseudo- bulbs will soon recover and
become plump when moisture isapplied. Itshou'd
be repotted shortly before it starts into growth,
and is seen to the best advantage when suspended
from the roof in either pans or baskets. The
flowers, which are numerous, each measure about
3 inches in diameter ; the sepals and petals white,
sometimes flushed with rose, whilst the lip is
usually of a bright deep rose. It is a native of
Mexico, and one of the most attractive species.
Wm. Hdgh Gower.

LARGE SPECIMEN ORCHIDS.
Although decried in some quarters, there can
be no question as to the beauty of large well-
cultivated Orchids, and those who declaim most
against miserable looking starvelings that have
only bulk to recommend them are often the
most lavish with their encomiums when con-
fronted with healthy well-flowered plants no
matter what their size. Large plants of most
kinds, however, need large spacious structures
to grow in, and as the predilection of present-
day growers is for smaller houses, the return to
favour of large specimen plants is thereby
hindered. It is often the case, too, that in
order to make room for new purchases the
fine old plants that have for years given a good
account of themselves are gradually elbowed
out. In many otherwise well-managed gardens
one comes across a house, perhaps an old vinery
it greenhouse, wherein are grouped in a more
or less chaotic condition plants of all kinds,
lelics of former days— Palms that have done
more than their duty at the mansion, old-
fashioned hard-wooded plants turned out to
make room for present-day favourites, and
many others— which the gardener usually de-
scribes to his visitors as a miscellaneous lot,
and passes on to inspect the aforesaid favourites.
So it is with Orchids. A hamper of new plants
comes from the nursery or a consignment of
newly-imported plants from the sale rooms;
the houses are already full, and something
must go into a corner, the choice often falling
on some fine old Vanda, Saccolabium, or other
would-be noble subject, room being wanted for
the pigmy Cypripedium or Odontoglot from

which so great things are expected. It would be
the height of folly to advise a whit less atten-
tion being bestowed on them, but a deep-
rooted liking for the former plants prompts
these few lines on their behalf. A suggestion
that has frequently been made, but not suffi-
ciently taken advantage of, is the adaptability
of vineries to the growth of large Orchids.
This is, I am aware, very distasteful to many
fruit growers who like "the vinery for the
Vines," and conjure up possibilities of mealy
bug and other insects in galore ; but how much
of this is prejudice or alarm will be shown by
the good results attending the practice where
judicious management obtains. If there are
successional vineries it is comparatively easy,
without in any way injuring the Vines, to give
the Orchids a suitable temperature and atmo-
sphere all through the year by shifting them
to the various compartments as this is neces-
sary. It is not intended in this note to go into
the details of culture, as these will suggest
themselves and must vary according to circum-
stances, but simply to recommend growers who
have these conveniences and find it necessary
to relieve the pressure on their Orchid houses
to remove thereto any of the grosser growing
kinds. This will have the double advantage of
giving the smaller plants more room and the
large species a more congenial home.

H. R.

Chysis bractescens.--In The Garden for
April 15 in an article on Chysis, " H. R." says
that C. bractcscens sometimes has as many as six
flowers on one raceme. You will find enclosed
raceme has eight flowers, and the bulb that it has
come from is 16 inches long. Let me know if
that is an unusual number. — T. Heyavood, Well-
field, Bury Lane.

*,* It is not usual for Chysis bractescens to
produce eight flowers upon a raceme. The flowers,
however, are not usually of full size when more
than six are produced. A very fine variety I
flowered several years in succession bore flowers
each nearly 6 inches across, but never more than
three upon the raceme, although the growth was
very vigorous.— H. R.

Cattleya Lawrenceana. — I believe this beau-
tiful Cattleya is flowering more freely than usual
this spring. Possibly its culture is now becoming
better understood. I grow the plants in a brisk
and moist heat, conditions this species apparently
likes. But what a range in the size and colour of
the flowers. One plant which I have is far
superior to the others, the individual blooms
being very large and brilliantly coloured ; in fact,
the colour of the lip extends to the sepals. — A
Young.

Rose Garden.

SPRING VERSUS AUTUMN PLANTING

OF ROSES.
However strong the opinion may be in favour
of planting Roses in the autumn, there is no
doubt that the success of the operation depends
more on the character of the weather prevailing
during the winter than has been generally ac-
knowledged. The past winter has proved this,
for here in the west of England in the ma-
jority of cases quite half the plants set out in
the autumn were killed by the prolonged cold
weather. So far as my experience goes this
is no exception, for in the early winter of
1801 and 1802 the frosty weather can.e on
before I could complete the planting of a
number of standard and bush Roses. The re-
sult was that I had more d<ad plants in the

following summer amongst those that were put
out before the frost set in than amongst those
that were laid in by their heels for sever.il
weeks and planted in the month of March.
This is sufficient to convince me that spring
planting has its advantages, and if I had to
perform the same kind of work again in a heavy
soil and bleak situation I should certainly
wait until the spring before I planted Hybrid
Perpetual Roses in any form. Of course, Teas
and other tender Roses would be dealt with at
the same time. When I was a youth I had to
assist in taking up every autumn all the Tea
Roses occupying several beds, and store them
away in a well- sheltered corner, with some dry
Bracken stuffed between the branches to pre-
vent the frost from reaching them. When all
danger of hard frost was past in the spring the
plants were transferred to the beds again. Of
course, under such a system we did not get
very early flowers, but we saved the plants,
and that is more than I have done this year
with those left in the ground undisturbed, al-
though the roots and stems were well protecti d
with coal ashes, and even those that are alive
are so terribly weakened, that half of the sum-
mer will be gone before they show any degree
of vigour. There is a great deal of unnecessary
prejudice existing in the minds of some people
against laying in by their heels Roses that come,
to hanel at a time when it is not convenient to
plant them. I elo not mean to say that I wouM
always prefer laying them in to planting them
at once, but when there are indications of severe
weather approaching I am convinced it is
better to place the roots in some fine earth in
a^snug corner, laying a little dry litter on the
branches, than to put them in their permanent
quarters where they will be exposed to all the
rigours of a long and severe winter. In the
winter I have just referred to, as well as during
the one just past, I had a number of both
standard and dwarf plants laid in by their heels
with the stems and branches protected by litter,
and although the soft tops were injured by the
frost, ninty-five per cent, of the plants are alive
and doing well. When laying in Roses by their
heels, the main point is to see that the roots
are well covered with fine soil pressed firmly
about them. As showing the lateness of this
season as compared with some others, on a
white Banksian Rose that was in flower at the
enel of March two years ago, the buds are not
even now showing a trace of colour, although I
am writing on April 21 . A plant of Fortune's
Yellow is just as late in blooming, while the
old Pink Monthly, which is generally so early,
is hardly forward enough to show the flowei-
buds. J. C. Clarke.

Taunton.

Roses and the past winter. — After a season
in which many losses have been sustained in the
Rose garden, it would be interesting as well as
advantageous to Rose growers if lists of the so
which have best stood the severity of the weather
were given in the pages of The Garden. Pom ;
years ago, after a very severe winter, many plan's
died oft during May and June. -T.

Roses in Sussex. — In my garden, where there
are about 350 Roses, I have only lost three ; i i
one part where there are 100, not one has bum
killed, and 90 of these are Tea Roses. Forty vce
planted late in November. We had 20° of fi ost
and the average for February was 9° of fro-f.
We had not more than four inches of snow,
the ground for four weeks being covered with
about two inches. I also hear from all my neigh-
bours that their Rose trees have not suffered so
much as usual. Daffodil bulbs are certainly
weakened, some clumps not flowering at all and it
is the same with some of the Tulips. — A. S., The
Firs, Btxhill on-Sea.

May 4, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

301

FRAGRANCE*
A man who makes a garden should have
a heart for plants that have the gift of
sweetness as well as beauty of form or colour.
And what a mystery as well as charm — wild
Roses sweet as the breath of heaven, and a
■wild Rose of repulsive odour, all born of the
earth-mother, and it may be springing from the
same spot. Flowers sweet at night and scent-
less in the day ; flowers of evil odour at one
hour and fragrant at another ; plants sweet in
breath of blossom, but deadly in leaf and
sap ; Lilies sweet as they are fair, and Lilies
that must nut lie let into the house; with bushes
in which all that is delightful in odour per-
meates to every March-daring bud. The Grant
Aliens of the day, who tell us how the Dande-
lion sprung from the Primrose some millions
of years ago, would explain all these things to
us, or put long names to them — what Sir
Richard Owen used to call u conjectural
biology." But we need not care where they
leave the question, for to us is given this
precious fragrance, happily almost
without effort, and happily as free
as the clouds from man's power to
spoil.

Every fertile country has its fra-
grant flowers and trees ; alpine mea-
dows with Orchids and mountain
Violets; the Primrose-scented woods,
Honeysuckle -wreathed and May-
frosted hedgerows of Britain ; tbe
Cedars of India and of the moun-
tains of Asia Minor, with Leba-
non ; trees of the same stately order, per-
haps still more fragrant in the warmer
Pacific breezes of the Rocky Mountains and
Oregon, where the many great Pines spring
from a carpet of fragrant Evergreens, and
a thousand flowers which fade away after
their early bloom, and rest in the heat, while
the tall trees overhead distil for ever grateful
odour in the sunny air ; Myrtle, Rosemary
and Lavender, and all the aromatic bushes and
herbs clothing the little capes that jut into the
great sea which washes the shores of Greece,
Italy, Sicily and Corsica; garden islands scat-
tered through vast Pacific seas, as stars are
scattered in the heavens; enormous tropical
forests, little entered by man, but from which
be gathers on the outskirts treasures for our
Orchid houses and greenhouses ; island gardens
like Java and Ceylon and Borneo, rich in
spices and lovely plant life ; Australian bush,
with traces of plant life as if from another
world, but often most delicate in odour even
in the distorted fragments of them we see in
our greenhouses.

It is not only from the fragile flower-
vases these sweet odours flow ; they breathe
through leaf and stem, and the whole being
of many trees and bushes, from the stately
Gum trees of Australia to the sweet Verbena
of Chili. Many must have felt the charm of
the strange scent of the Box bush before
Oliver Wendell Holmes told us of its
" breathing the fragrance of eternity, for this
is one of the odours which carry us out of

* First written for McDonald's " Sweet-scented
Flowers." London. 1895.

time into the abysses cf the unbeginning
past." The scent of flowers is often cloying,
as of the Tuberose, while that -of leaves is
often delicate and refreshing, as in the bud-
ding Larch, and in the leaves of Balm and
Rosemary, while fragrance is often stored
in the wood and down through the roots.

Flowering shoot of Chimonanthus fragrans.

It is given to few to see many of these
sweet plants in their native lands, but we
who love our gardens may enjoy many of
them about us, not merely in drawings or
descriptions, but the living, breathing things
themselves. The Geraniums in the cottage
window bring us the spicy fragrance of the
South African hills ; the Lavender bush of

thus the fragrant

entwine for us,

beauty, living as-

thoughts for ever

the sunny hills of Provence, where it is a
home ; the Roses in the garden bring near us
the breath of the wild Roses on a thousand
hills ; the sweet or pot herbs of our gardens
are a gift of the shore-lands of France and
Italy and Greece. The Sweet Bay bush in
the farmer's or cottage garden comes with its
story from the streams of Greece, where
it seeks moisture in a thirsty land along
with the wild Olive and the Arbutus.
And this Sweet Bay is the Laurel of the
poets, of the first and greatest of all poet
and artist nations of the earth — the Laurel
sacred to Apollo, and used in many ways
in his worship, as we may see on coins,
and in many other tilings that remain
to us of the great peoples of the
past. The Myrtle, of less fame, but also a
sacred plant beloved for its leaves and blos-
soms, was, like the Laurel, seen near the
temples of the race who built their temples
as Lilies are built, whose song is deathless,
and the fragments of its art Despair to the
artist of our time. And
bushes our gardens may
apart from their gift of
sociations and beautiful
famous in human story.

It is not only the odours of trees and
flowers known to all we have to think of,
but many delicate ones, less known of,
perhaps, by reason of the blossoms that give
them being without showy colour, as the wild
Vine, the Sweet Vernal, Lemon, and other
Grasses. And among these modest flowers
there are none more delicate in odour than the
blossoms of the common white Willow and
yellow-twigged and other Willows of Britain
and Northern Europe, all the more grateful in
air coming to us,

O'er the northern moorland, o'er the northern foam.

What is the lesson these sweet flowers have
for us ? They tell us — if there were no other
flowers to tell us — that a garden should be a
living thing ; its life not only fair in form
and lovely in colour, but in its breath and
essence coming from the Divine. They tell us
that the very common attempt to conform
their fair lives into tile or other patterns, to
clip or set them out as so much mere colour
of the paper-stainer or carpet-maker, is to
degrade them and make our gardens ugly and
ridiculous, from the point of view of Nature
or true art. And many of these treasures for
the open garden have been shut out of our
thoughts owing to the exclusion of almost
everything that did not make showy colour
and lend itself to crude ways of setting out
flowers to compete, with tiles and like modes
of "decoration."

Of the many things that should be thought
of in tbe making of a garden to live in, this
of fragrance is one of the first. And, happily,
among every class of flowers which may adorn
our open-air gardens there are fragrant things
to be found. Apart from the groups of plants
in which all, or nearly all, are fragrant, as in
Roses, the annual and biennial flowers of our
gardens are rich in fragrance — Stocks, Mig-
nonette, Sweet Peas, Sweet Sultan, Wall-

302

THE GARDEN.

[May 4, 1895.

Eockets, Sweet Scabious | here and there, and in the bank fence plenty

of Sweet Brier, and May, and Slue.

The fence would not be cut every year
into a bare and ugly line, but May, Sioe and
Sweet Brier left to bud and bloom, and the
bank and hedge to form a shelter as well as a
strong fence — not to be touched oftencr than
every ten years or so, and then when dealt
with it should be woven together in the strong
way usual in parts of Kent, that is, strong and
tough enough to keep back an elephant. On
the cool side of these sod banks the Primrose
and the Oxlip would bloom long and well, and
on all sides of them Daffodils and Jonquil,
with Snowflakes, Snowdrops, wild Tulips or
any bulb-like thing we had to spare from the
garden ; and from the garden clippings, too,
a lew tufts of Balm and Myrrh to live for
ever among the Grasses of the bank and lie-
low the wreaths of Honevsuckle.

W. B.

flowers, double

and many others. These, among the most
easily raised of plants, may be enjoyed by the
simplest cottage gardeners. The garden bor-
ders of perennial flowers bear for us odours
as precious as any breath of tropical Orchid,
from the Lily of the Valley to the Carnation,
this last yielding, perhaps, the most grateful
odour of all the flowering host in our garden
land. In these borders things are sweeter than
words may tell of — Woodruff, Balm, Pinks,
A inlets, garden Primroses, Polyanthuses, Day
and other Lilies, early Irises, Narcissi, Evening
Primroses, Mezereon and Pansies delicate in
their sweetness.

No one may be richer in delicate fragrance
than the wise man who plants hardy shrubs
and flowering trees — Magnolia, Thorn,
Daphne, Lilac — names each telling of whole
families of delightful things. Among shrubs,
those without any strong odour, like hardy
Heaths, are welcome to many who are often
touched by remembered fragrance of some
plant they do not always know. From the
same regions where we found the Laurel and
the Myrtle we have the Laurustinu«, beauti-
ful in all our sea-coast and milder districts,
and many other lovely bushes happy in our
climate : one, the Winter-Sweet, even pour-
ing out delicious fragrance in mid-winter ;
Sweet Gale, Azaleas, Allspice, and the
delightful little Mayflower that creeps about
in the woodland shade in North America.
So, though we cannot boast of Lemon or
Orange groves, our climate is kind to many
lovely and fragrant shrubs.

Even our ugly walls may be sweet gardens
with Magnolia, Honeysuckle, Clematis, Sweet
Verbena, and the delightful old Jasmine, still
eh itliing many a house in London. Most
precious of all, however, are the noble climb-
ing Tea Eases raised in our own time, within
the past fifty years or so. Among the abor-
tions of this century these are a real gain —
the loveliest flowers ever raised by man.
Noble in form and colour, and scented as
delicately as a June morn in alpine pastures,
with these most precious of garden Poses we
could cover all the ugly walls in England
and Ireland, and very many of them are in
want of a veil.

The old way of having an orchard near the
house was a good one. Planted for use, it
was as precious for its beauty, and not only
when the spring winds carried the breath
<>f its myriad blossoms of Cherry, Plum,
Apple, and Pear. There were the fruit
odours, too, and the early Daffodils and Snow-
drops, with Violets and Primroses on the
hanks came, and overhead the lovely hardy
trees that bear our orchard fruits, Apples,
Tears, Cherries, Plums, Medlar and Quince.
To make pictures to last round the year
and far along them I should ask for many
orchard trees on a few acres of good ground
(all the better if too uneven for the plough) ; a
rough belt of native Evergreens, Hollies, Yew
.'inl Fir on the cold sides to comfort trees and
men ; and with careless garlands of Honey-
suckle, wild Lose, and Clematis among them

Stove and Greenhouse.

FELARGONIUM CULTURE.

The fact that the old enthusiasm for the cul-
ture of show and fancy Pelargoniums has to a
great extent subsided is not easily accounted
for, as it would be difficult to name any class of
soft-wooded flowering plants more attractive or
useful during the months of May and June.
At one time in almost every garden of any pre-
tensions there was a batch of show Pelar-
goniums which were kept by themselves and
treated in a special manner, the blooming sea-
son being watched with more than ordinary
eagerness. Anyone accustomed to visit the
metropolitan shows twenty years ago will not
readily forget the gorgeous specimens exhibited
by Mr. John Ward, of Leyton, and which I
suppose have never been equalled by those of
any other grower.

One of the first to improve the Pelargonium
was Mr. Beck, a slate merchant, of Isleworth,
who raised many new varieties, some of which
would be hard to beat even at the present day.
Amongst others might be named Desdemona
and Marc Antony, the former a light flower
with a purple blotch and a prodigious bloomer,
the latter of a darker shade and equally as free.
Old exhibitors will remember these varieties.
To grow Pelargoniums well a fair amount of
skill and great regularity are necessary, and for
this reason they are best kept by themselves.
The best compost for the plants is loam cut
from a pasture the reverse of rich containing
a large percentage of fibre. A rich loam, especi-
ally if manure is added, is very apt to pro-
duce a sappy growth, which should be avoided.
To the loam should be added in autumn short
stable manure well soaked with urine, stack-
ing layer by layer. After it has been stacked
some weeks and the manure has become decom-
posed, the heap should be chopped down and
the ingredients well mixed. It should then be
removed under cover and kept dry till wanted,
sufficient rough sand being added at potting
time to keep it open.

After the plants have done flowering water
should be withheld for a few days, after which
each shoot should be cut back, leaving only a
few eyes at the base of each. No water must
be given till the wounds heal over, when the
plants may be daily moistened with the syringe
to induce them to break again into growth.

When the shoots are half an inch long the
plants should again be allowed to dry at the ball
previous to shaking them out and removing
all the soil from the roots. The main roots
should be cut well back and all the fibrous ones
left intact, after which the plants should be
potted into as small pots as will hold them,
using loam and sand free from manure. If a
frame is at command a sufficient quantity of
leaves should be placed therein to produce a
gentle bottom heat. In this plunge the pots,
moistening the ball and keeping the frame close
and shaded until the plants are again esta-
blished, which will be in a week or ten days.
After this more air should be admitted until the
lights are entirely removed in the daytime, the
great aim being to keep the new growth dwarf
and stiff and to induce rest. On the approach
of frost remove the plants to a light airy green-
house, keeping them as near the glass as possible.
From this time to the middle of January no
more water should be given than is required to
keep the shoots from flagging, abundance of
fresh air being admitted in fine weather by
both the top and bottom ventilators. About
the third week in January is a good time to put
the plants into their blooming pots, draining
well and using the compost first named ; pot
firmly, returning the plants to the greenhouse,
again keeping them rather close and shading
for a week should the weather be bright. As .
growth advances syringe the foliage overhead
when the house is closed early on sunny days,
fumigate on the first signs of aphis, and stop
the shoots according to the time the plants are
wanted to flower. If required for exhibition,
train the shoots directly they become sufficiently
pliable, and always smoke the house imme-
diately before the first flowers open. Stimu-
lants ought not to be supplied until the bloom-
trusses appear, as if the plants are healthy and
strong they frequently flower unsatisfactorily
if rich food is given before that date. Al-
though not lasting so long as some flowers when
cut and placed in water, they are most useful
for that purpose, and plants in bloom, if placed
in a frame behind a north wall or hedge and
elevated on bricks so as to allow of a free cur-
rent of air passing amongst them, will remain
in full beauty for a considerable time. Diluted
sheep manure water suits Pelargoniums best.

J. Crawford.

Asparagus deflexus. — As regards this va-
riety of the Asparagus, there seems to be a little
confusion. I have noted at Kew that a variety is
there grown under the name of A. decumbens,
which some will have is identical with A. de-
ilexus, but in my opinion this is not so. The
latter has a sturdier habit of growth, the leaves
are more densely set upon the stem, being also a
trifle longer, and a shade deeper of green pervades
the entire plant, whilst the same drooping grace-
ful habit is still retained. To my way of thinking,
A. deflexus is superior in every way to A. decum-
bens. The one may only be a varietal form of the
other, but that there is a most perceptible differ-
ence is quite evident to those who have had an
opportunity of making the comparison. Be this
as it may, there is no question as to the use-
fulness of A. deflexus as a basket plant or for
planting out in ferneries on overhanging pieces of
rock where its long growths can hang down with-
out hindrance. It will withstand quite a cool
temperature when established. During the past
severe and prolonged winter it kept well in every
way in a temperature oi from 3(5° to 40° at night
during the coldest spells. As a basket plant for
the conservatory or fernery it is well suited. —
H. G.

A new race cf Begonias. — In conjunction
w7ith some members of the tuberous-rooted section,

Mat 4, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

303

B. soeotrana has already given us those beautiful
flowering varieties, Adonis, John Heal and
Winter Gem ; and now it has been employed with
B. Rex in the production of a totally different
class, one member of which received an award of
merit when shown at a meeting of the Royal
Horticultural Society on November 27 1astyeai.
The variety so honoured out of several that were '
shown by Messrs. Sander, of St. Albans, was
named Winter Queen, and very bright and 1
effective it was at that dull season of the year.
The foliage is very ornamental, and, in addition,
the infusion of soeotrana blood has resulted in
flowers vastly superior to those borne by B. Rex
and of a pleasing pink tint. The markings of the
leaf vary a good deal in the different varieties,

cannot be successfully amalgamated ; if it be
done, the plant so treated is bound to suffer in
both directions. Should it have been grown on
quickly by more frequent shifts, it will never with-
stand the variations of temperature concurrent on
being used in apartments for two or three days
together. The cause of this is the want of a hard-
ened growth consequent on not being grown in
relatively small pots. Crotons that are confined at
the roots, but potted in good soil, will withstand
a deal of rough treatment and remain in a
healthy state for a long time. It will be quite
useless, however, to attempt afterwards the task of
building up a thriving specimen out of such ma-
terial, the constitution having become in a measure
hardened, but not of likely after development. An

The blue Throat-wort (Trachelium cccruleum).

and in the case of Winter Queen the leaves are
much undulated and consist of a star-shaped
centre of dark olive-green, surrounded by a belt
of silvery grey ; while on the outside of the leaf
is a broad belt of bright green, dotted with white,
altogether forming a very pleasing combination.
Begonias of this group certainly promise to be a
very useful class, and no doubt before long they
will be generally distributed in gardens. The
hybrid Begonias now in cultivation are the pro-
duct of a great number of widely different com-
binations.— H. P.

Decorative Crotons. — By this expression of
the adjective it is the intention to convey the
difference between a plant that is being grown on
with some degree of rapidity, so as to obtain a
specimen plant, and that of one destined to be
turned to account for furnishing purposes outside
of the stove itself. The two methods of treatment

apt illustration may be taken from the pigmy trees
as grown by the Japanese gardeners when con-
trasted with others of the same kinds that are
being advanced under generous treatment. These
facts should be borne in mind by all who grow
Crotons for furnishing. Too humid an atmosphere,
too high a temperature, and too free a use of
shading will all tend to failure as far as it pertains
to this kind of stock. As far as shading is con-
cerned, none at all is required for well-established
plants. Shading will not be conducive to colour
such as one aims at securing in Crotons. Until
the pots are thoroughly well rilled with roots it is
never safe to make use of Crotons in unfavourable
situations. — H. G.

Eranthemum tuberculatum.— This Eranthe-
mum, which was introduced from New Caledonia
over thirty years ago, is not a common species ;
indeed several members of the genus might with

advantage be more often grown than they are
now-a-days, for the blossoms of many of them are
very beautiful. E. tuberculatum is in general
appearance very different from most of the others,
as it forms a little shrubby specimen with a
profusion of branches clothed with small oval
leaves of a brownish green tint. The branches
are studded with curious little tubercles, from
whence the specific name is derived. These tuber-
cles at a superficial glance appear very like a quan-
tity of scale insects, but on closer inspection their
true nature is apparent. It is just now flowering
freely, the blossoms being pure white and with a
long, slender tube somewhat after the manner of
Bouvardia Humboldti. The mouth of the flower
is over an inch across. — H. P.

THE THROAT- WORT.

(TRACHELIUM CtERULEUM.)

It is only fitting in these days, when too much
dependence is placed upon subjects that are
chiefly remarkable for their showy properties,
to draw attention to this comparatively modest
plant. Those who are in search of a plant
that will do good service from the middle of
August (or sooner if need be) until the end of
September (if kept back under a north wall)
cannot do better than turn their attention to
the plant in question. It is of the easiest pos-
sible culture, the old shoots being quite safe in
a cold frame through the wiuter. Some authori-
ties deem it, however, a hardy plant, but this
term may, perhaps, have to be modified in
some measure if we have a recurrence of such
severe winters as the past. It may be propa-
gated in the spring by cuttings taken from the
base close to the soil, some of which, it is quite
possible, will have roots of their own. Such
as these will make capital plants to flower the
same season in (i-inch pots, being afterwards
cared for to grow on the following spring, so as
to provide a set of larger plants if need be.
Seedlings can also be readily raised, but when
this plan is adopted I would advise the sowing
of the seed from plants that have flowered
comparatively early in August as soon as it is
ripe. This plan will provide a better plant
than if spring sowing be adopted, it being pos-
sible to keep a goodly number of seedlings in a
shallow box or pan through the winter months
in a cool greenhouse. In any case this plant
may be treated as being as hardy as Chry-
santhemums from cuttings, or even more so,
there being no need of house room from the
end of March until the flowering season comes
round. For large conservatories this but little-
known plant will do specially good service at a
season when any novelty is a pleasing change.
The best trusses of violet-blue flowers are pro-
duced on the terminals, but the lateral shoots
on strong plants will also yield a very good
display. Scarcely any insect will cause trouble
when close attention to watering and syringing
is given, which in either case may be liberal. The
soil in which I have grown my plants is loam
and leaf-mould with a little sand, potting
being done in a fairly firm manner. Of this
blue Throat-wort there is also a white variety,
but I much prefer the type to this varietal
form, which is not really so effective. It should
be noted that spring-struck cuttings will make
dwarfer plants than the seedlings.

Southron.

Streptosolen Jamesoni. — This is a beautiful
flowering plant for the greenhouse, and though of
very easy propagation and culture, it was, singu-
larly enough, lost soon after its introduction into
this country in 1850. It was then unknown, except
from botanical specimens, till M. Andr£ found it
in Ecuador in 1882, and introduced it into France.
After that it soon became generally grown, but

304

THE GARDEN

[May 4, 1895.

certainly not more than its merits deserve, as the
distinct orange-red flowers are borne in great pro-
fusion and a succession is also kept up for a con-
siderable time. This Streptosolen is nearly re-
lated to the Browallias, and is indeed included in
that genus by many authorities. In colour at all
events it is quite distinct, for most of the Brow-
allias have blue flowers. Though the flowering
season of this Streptosolen is spread over a con-
siderable period, it is, I think, seen at its best in
spring and early summer. I have met with it in
better condition and in greater quantity in many
places this year than formerly, and it is certainly
a plant that pays for a little extra attention. In
too dry an atmosphere red spider is apt to cause
the foliage to turn yellow and drop, but no other
insects give much trouble. — T.

PALM SEEDS.

Now that Palms are far more popular than was at
one time the case, large importations of seeds
frequently reach this country, and immense num-
bers are disposed of at the London sale rooms.
The recent announcement of a forthcoming sale of
over half a million seeds has suggested a few notes
on the subject, for most Palms require rather
different treatment from that given to the seeds
of other classes of plants. The selection of Palms
generally grown for ordinary decoration is not an
extensive one, the most commonly met with being
theKentias, Lataniaborbonica, Cocos Weddelliana,
C. flexuosa, Seaforthia elegans, Areca lutescens,
A.Baueri, A. sapida, Phcenixrupicola, and Corypha
auetraliB. Palm seeds as a rule reach this country
in better condition than was at one time the case,
and now out of some importations nearly every
seed will germinate. It is very necessary to ex-
amine the seed, for in numerous cases when the
germ has perished it will be found that the body
of the seed is as firm as ever. A stove is a very
suitable place for raising Palm seeds of all kinds,
and if they can be plunged in a gentle bottom
heat, so much the better. They will germinate all
the more readily if previous to sowing them they
are soaked for twenty-four hours in water at a
temperature of about SO'. The pots, pans, or
boxes in which the seed is to be sown should be
fairly, but not excessively drained and filled with
a soil composed principally of good loam and sand,
lightened if the loam is too heavy by an admixture
of well-decayed leaf mould or peat. All manures
or stimulants of any kind, though valuable later
on, should in this early stage be avoided. In
sowing, the soil should be pressed down moderately
firm, and overcrowding the seeds must be guarded
against. They should be covered with soil to
about their own depth and plunged in a little
bottomheat ; no further attention than watering will
be necessary till the seeds germinate. Until this
takes place the pans or boxes may be stood under
the stages or in any out-of-the-way spot, but there is
far more probability of their being overlooked, and
perhaps suffering "from extremes of drought and
moisture than if they are plunged in a bed with a
gentle bottom heat. Frequently in the case of
Palms the seed germinates in a very irregular
manner — that is to say, a few will at times make
their appearance soon after sowing, while many of
them will not grow till some time later. As Palm
seeds that reach this country have of course been
ripened some time before, and have perhaps
undergone many hardships, they should on receipt
be sown without any unnecessary delay, as it may
make all the difference between a good and a bad
crop. When the young plants make their appear-
ance a very good time to pot them off is just as the
first leaf is developed, for the roots then soon start
in the new soil, whereas if they are allowed to grow
larger before potting they are very liable to suffer
a good deal from the removal. Small pots should
be chosen for the first potting, as most Palms are
very impatient even when large of a mass of soil
around the roots. A compost such as that in
which the seed was sown will, if passed through a
sieve with half an inch mesh, do well for the
young plants. Of course such free growing sub-
jects as Latania borbonica, Areca lutescens, and

Seaforthia elegans will need even at first larger
pots than the weaker growers represented by Cocos
Weddelliana and Geonoma gracilis. In most cases
the seed remains attached to the young plant, and
it then furnishes a good guide as to the depth the
seedling should be placed in the soil at the first
potting. As a rule it should be so situated that
the seed just rests on the surface of the soil. If
plunged in the stove and a good moisture-laden
atmosphere be maintained, the young plants of
such kinds as are above enumerated will make
good progress. They must be kept in a steady
growing state and repotted when necessary, for
though many Palms will do wonderfully well in
small pots, yet if once allowed to become stunted
it is very difficult to induce them to grow freely
again. As a great deal of the beauty of a Palm
consists of the symmetrical manner in which the
foliage is disposed, it will be particularly neces-
sary to guard against overcrowding, and the
plants must also be turned around occasionally to
ensure a well-balanced specimen. Liberal syring-
ing will keep down insect pests to a very great
extent, the greatest trouble being scale, which, if
allowed to effect a lodgment on the leaves, is very
difficult to eradicate. As the plants get larger
and reach a decorative size occasional stimulants
will be of service, and it is also very necessary to
keep the foliage clean. H. P.

FOUR GOOD NEW SOLANUMS.

Monsieur Georo.es Bruant, of Poitiers, Vienne,
France, the well-known introducer of new plants,
is now offering for the first time at such extremely
moderate prices as to put them within the reach
of all lovers of novelties the following four new
species of Solanum, most if not all of which should,
I think, be great acquisitions to British gardens.
M. Bruant describes them as follows : —

Solanum Seaforthianum is a native of the
Antilles. It has climbing stems with pinnatifid
leaves having nine to eleven leaflets, and produces
inflorescences of large dimensions in pendent
bunches, which afford by their shape and size the
appearance of bunches of Wistaria sinensis. On
each bunch may be counted about forty agree-
ably perfumed flowers of a delicate and beautiful
shade of lilac-blue with golden yellow anthers.
The plant is free blooming and of easy culture,
and may be used for training up the rafter of a
greenhouse or to a wire or light timber trellis in
a pot.

S. Dammannianum.— A large and very orna-
mental species for planting out during the
summer. During the course of a single season
this plant forms a small pyramidal tree of about
9 feet in height, with large woolly leaves grace-
fully serrated. In the autumn bunches of large
deep blue flowers with golden anthers appear at
the extremity of every branch; the plant is then
very beautiful.

S. mors elephantum. — A species recently
introduced from Equatorial Africa by Dr. Stuhl-
mann. It reaches about a yard in height with
violet stems and deep green foliage. The flow era
are large and of a light blue colour, to which
succeed large fruits of a canary yellow colour
which hold themselves upright and are produced
in threes. These fruits are, it seems, very in-
jurious to elephants, hence the name of the plant.

S. Dublostnuatum. — This very beautiful species
has been recently introduced from Abyssinia. It
is a plant of robust habit of growth and of easy
culture in an ordinary greenhouse ; it is weil
suited also for planting out during the summer or
for pot culture if preferred. The foliage is par-
ticularly elegant, and the whole plant highly
ornamental with large blue flowers set off by
golden yellow stamens. The berries which suc-
ceed the flowers are pure white in colour. Since
writing the above descriptions, translated from
M. Bruant's new catalogue, I have found two
portraits of Solanum Seaforthianum, the one on
plate 504 of the 8th volume of Andrew's Botanicai
Repository and the other on plate 1 < IS2 of the 43th
volume of the Botanical Magazine. These pic-
tures represent a distinct and different plant

from the one described by M. Bruant, with
numerous small pale, rosy flesh-coloured flowers,
and it is stated that the plant was introduced as far
back as 1S04. It is also said to Joe synonymous
with S. venustum, and is also figured in Botanical
Beyister, vol. 12, plate 969, and in Loddiges'
Botanical Cabinet, vol. 10, plate 971 ; but while
the two first cited plates agree as to colour the
two latter totally differ from them, being of the
palest shade of lilac-blue. It remains therefore
to be seen which brace of plates is the correct
representation of M. Bruant's plant.

W. E. GUMBLETON.

AZALEA HEXE.
This variety belongs to the small- flowered group
of greenhouse Azaleas, and is the only one that has
been illustrated in The Garden, where a coloured
plate was given August 6, 1892. It was raised by
M. Otto Forster, of Lehenhof, from that well-
known variety of the Indian section Due Adolph
de Nassau, fertilised with the pollen of a good
form of Azalea amcuna, the result being a very
pretty small-flowered Azalea. It retains the
hose-in-hose character of A. amcena, but, as might
be expected, the flowers are larger than in that
kind, and in colour they are a very pleasing
bright rosy purple and borne in great profusion.
Azaleas of this class are now numerous, and many
of them are very valuable for the embellishment
of the greenhouse at this season or even earlier,
for they respond well to gentle forcing. The rage
for huge blooms is, however, still pretty general,
and by many freedom of flowering, good habit,
and other desirable qualities are of small moment
compared with the size of bloom. When the
public taste in this respect alters we shall doubt-
less see this class of Azaleas more appreciated
than it is now. The idea of crossing the little A.
amcena with some members of the Indian section
would seem to have originated with Mr. Car-
michael when at Sandringham, and many of the
varieties raised by him are still grown. The best
known of the Sandringham varieties are William
Carmichael, Duke of Connaught, Princess Bea-
trice, and Mrs. Carmichael. The variety of the
Indian group principally employed by Mr. Car-
michael in the production of his hybrids was that
free-flowering form Stella. Of small flowers other
than that of European raised hybrids we have the
typical A. amcena, and particularly its variety
Caldwelli, with larger blossoms than the normal
form, the Japanese A. calyciflora, whose hose-in-
hose blooms are of a bright salmon-red colour with
a distinct orange shade, and the little A. obtusa
with orange-red flowers. Of this last there is a
variety whose blooms are white or occasionally
striped. Azaleas of this group are very readily
propagated from cuttings, and plants so obtained
are more satisfactory in all ways than those in-
creased by grafting. The cuttings should be
formed of the young shoots taken just as they
commence to lose their succulent character, and
being dibbled firmly into well-drained pots of
sandy peat must be kept close till rooted. In
structures where it is difficult to maintain heat
during the winter these small-flowered Azaleas
will be found useful, for the hardy A. amcena
being one of the parents, they are, as might be
supposed, less liable to be injured by severe
weather than the members of the Indian section.
The various forms of this last are, however, not
all equally tender, for the old white A. indica
alba is hardy in some places. H. P.

Early-flowering Mag-nolias.— There are at
present three kinds of Magnolia in bloom— two
species and a hybrid. Although they cannot, un-
fortunately, be described as amongst the never-
failing pleasures of spring— the flowers are too
frequently injured by frost— they attain to per-
fection often enough to well deserve the space
they occupy in the garden. Their beauties, too,
are all the more welcome and appreciated because
of their somewhat uncertain continuance. First
amongst the three in importance is the Yulan (M.

May 4, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

305

conspicua), one of the early introductions from
China, and one of the most lovely of all hardy
trees. Its dark leafless stems are now laden with
the erect cup-shaped flowers, the vivid white of
which is all the more effective where it has a back-
ground of some Evergreen or even of a group of
our native deciduous trees. Very similar to the
Yulan in general aspect is the hybrid M. Sou-
langeana ; this variety has as one of its parents M.
obovata, and inherits from that species the purple
stains on the outside of the flower. In size of both
tree and flower, however, it is equal to the Yulan.
Completing the trio is the charming M. stellata
or Halleana. This is a dwarf shrub and commences
to bloom when only a few inches high. When
small it may be grown in groups or beds, and if
the ground between the plants is occupied by
some flowering bulbs like the Chionodoxa, or Grape
Hyacinth, flowering at the same time, a most
lovely combination is produced. This Magnolia
grows large enough, however, to stand as a single
specimen, as may be seen by the fine rounded
bushes, 4 feet high, in the Coombe Wood nursery.
A sheltered position should if possible be selected
where other and hardier vegetation gives protec-
tion from light frosts and from the morning sun-
shine that so often follows. It is a native of
Japan. — B.

Books.

INJURIOUS INSECTS.*

We have, as usual at this time of year, to wel-
come another report of observations on injurious
insects by Miss Ormerod. This is now the eigh-
teenth year in which she has published these
reports. The present one contains observations
on thirty pests. Of these twenty-one are insects,
three mites, four eelworms, one springtail, and
one millipede. Of these, nine — namely, six in-
sects, one mite, one eelworm, and one springtail,
are mentioned for the first time, so that the num-
ber of pests reported on last year was consider-
ably less than in the few previous ones. This
should not be a matter of surprise, as every year
our knowledge of the pests which attack our crops
becomes more perfect. This report is a very in-
teresting one, and contains much valuable infor-
mation, but, as in previous reports, it is by no
means easy to get at it. With judicious editing
it might with much advantage have been much
reduced in size and the information it contains
given much more concisely without omitting
a single item. The pagination of this report is
somewhat peculiar ; the preface is paged 1 to 7,
the actual notes of observations 1 to 118, the
appendix 1 to 62, and the index 1 to 3. Why
four sets of numbers are used instead of number-
ing the pages straight through does not appear.
Protest must be made against the practice of call-
ing caterpillars which feed on the leaves of trees
and plants grubs. There is some excuse for call-
ing some of the caterpillars which feed at the
roots of plants grubs, but when alluding to the
larvae of the eyed hawk moth, to speak of them as
grubs, "but with great grubs like these" — see
page 3— twice again on the same page. Also on
page 5 the caterpillars of the lappet moth are
spoken of as grubs. Ignorant persons like some
of her correspondents may speak of caterpillars as
grubs, but they would equally understand what
was meant if the word caterpillar was used, and
in a work of this kind care should be taken to call
things by their right names. Miss Ormerod men-
tions in the preface that no less than about 140
different kinds of insects and other pests have
been sent to her with inquiries during last year.
A list is given of 70 of the most important
attacks ; and, speaking of these attacks, she
says : " During the past season of 1894 nearly all
our common kinds of crop and orchard insect

* " Notes of Observations of Injurious Insects and
Common Farm Pests During the Year 1804, with
Methods of Prevention and Remedy." By Miss E. A.
Ormerod. Simpkin & Marshall.

pests were present, but no attacks were reported
as being prevalent generally over the country to a
serious extent, or, excepting in the case of the
antler moth, over large districts, and the
attacks not previously recorded as present were
all of importance." An appendix of 62 pages
is devoted to the ox - warble, about which
in the preface Miss Ormerod says : " The great
point of attention, however, of the year has been
ox- warble. We (that is those concerned) have
been working on constantly, steadily, and with
good results, and especial advance has been made
in attention to the subject in Ireland. So long as
the simple directions, which we have kept well
before cattle owners for the last seven years, we
do well. But I am bound, though with much
regret, to lay before all concerned that there is a
great cause for being on the alert against advice
claiming to be authoritative, yet in which well
proved, easily practicable, and almost costless
treatment is left unnoticed and inefficient appli-
cation advised." The first three insects reported
on, the eyed hawk moth (Smerinthus ocellatus),
the lappet moth (Gastropacha quercifolia),
and the large tortoise-shell butterfly (Vanessa
polychlorus), can hardly be considered as garden
or farm pests. Their caterpillars, like all others,
injure to some extent the plants or trees on which
they feed, but they are not at present, and there
is no record of their ever having been present in
sufficient numbers to be really injurious. It is
suggested that perhaps "with these, as with other
occasional infestations of large and handsome
caterpillars sometimes of rare species and usually
not very numerous, it would often be the best
way towards getting rid of them to let some
neighbouring collector of entomological specimens
know of their presence." The large tortoise-shell
butterfly is one of our handsomest insects, and
very rarely occurs in such numbers that the word
"injurious'' can be properly applied to it. After
mentioning the best means for their destruction,
the authoress seems struck with remorse, for she
says in conclusion "but generally speaking the
large and beautiful insects are so scarce, that
they might be left uninjured with little fear
of consequences. The antler moth (Char.eas gra-
minis), whose caterpillars feed on the roots of
grass, and where present, as they are at times, in
very large numbers, they completely destroy the
grass over a large district. They are most abun-
dant on the hill pastures in the north of England
and the south of Scotland. Last year they did
much mischief in many places. The caterpillars
were often infested by a parasite, one of the hair or
thread worms belonging to the genus Mermis. These
worms are 7 inches and even 8 inches long, and
only of the thickness of a piece of fine twine. They
aro also subject fortunately to a disease which
causes the greater part of the interior of the body
to turn into a brown liquid containing bacteria.
The best means of destroying this pest is by tiring
the grass. The Hessian fly grubs were not much
in evidence last year, only three observations on
them having been sent in to Miss Ormerod. One
of the insects mentioned for the first time in
these reports is the caterpillar of a moth be-
longing to the genus Miana (probably M. ex-
polita), which is classed in the division of moths
called Nocturina. "The caterpillars were ob-
served early in the year doing serious injury to a
field of young wheat near Lymington, in Hamp-
shire, by feeding in the centre of the plant and
also to some degree eating the young leaves
round the centre." One point in connection with
the attacks of this insect which is satisfactory is
that they were only found in "ley ground," so
that it is probable that the eggs were laid at the
roots of the grass which was ploughed in, and
they afterwards attacked the young wheat. If
this be so, there is not much fear of its becoming a
very common pest. One of the most important
reports is that on the eelworms which injure Hop
plants. Professor Percival, of the South-Eastern
Agricultural College, Wye, has been making some
observations on Hops which have become what is
commonly called " nettle-headed," a disease which
appears to beontheincrease,andthecause of which

was unknown. Professo„ Percival finds that the
disease is caused by eelworms infesting the roots.
Apparently there are two kinds which injure the
Hops much in the same manner. The stem eel-
worm (Tylench us devastatrix ), a well-known specie
which causes "tulip-root" in Beet plants and
stem sickness in Clover, and the Beet eelworm
(Heterodera Schachti), which is found at the
roots of various plants on the Continent, but
which had not hitherto been detected in England.
Miss Ormerod has published in this report some
of the main features of Professor Percival's dis-
covery, but a full account of them is given by him-
self in the March number of "Natural Science."
Miss Ormerod suggests that eelworms may not be
the only cause of the abnormal growth, for she
says " the same or a very similar kind of diseased
growth may be caused by various other attacks or
diseases," and she suggests sulphate of potash or
sulphate of potash and sulphate of ammonia as
remedies, or the more radical cure of digging up
and destroying the affected plants. Prof. Percival
says, with regard to remedies, "It may be re-
marked at the outset that there is no known
method of exterminating these nematodes from the
soil when once they have become established there,
and consequently it becomes imperative to call
attention to the necessity for dealing summarily
with the pest in the earlier manifestations of this
new disease. Thousands of experiments have been
made on the Continent with a view to eradicating
the Heterodera from the Beetroot fields, but
without success. Applications of alkaline solu-
tions and alkaline salts to the soil as manures have
met with some success. Top-dressing in spring
with muriate of potash or sulphate of potash has
been found most beneficial. Liming in some in-
stances and working in of salt have diminished
the evil effects of the parasites, and the
former should be tried, especially where the
soil is full of humus from the indiscriminate
use of large quantities of organic manures. As
soon as an affected plant is seen in a garden it
should be grubbed and burnt on the spot, and
quicklime applied to the ground in the imme-
diate neighbourhood. All implements used in
cultivating infected gardens should be properly
cleaned before being used among healthy crops,
and the planting of 'sets' taken from infected
gardens should be discontinued." It is difficult to
determine the rate at which the parasites would
spread if left to themselves ; there is no doubt
that the parasites are at present largely carried
from "hill" to "hill "by the incessant cultiva-
tion which goes on in the Hop garden. Another
new pest is a small beetle, Helophorus rugosus, to
which Miss Ormerod has given the name of the
Turnip mud beetle, which eats the leaves of
Turnips, and its grubs feed on the upper part of
the bulbs and in the leaf-stalks. They do most
damage when the plants are small. Hitherto
the attacks of this insect have only been noticed
in Scotland, but owing to its small size and habits
it is highly probable that this may have been over-
looked in England. The beetles are only about a
quarter of an inch long. The thorax and wing cases
are deeply grooved, and are usually covered with
soil and dirt, which it is difficult to free them from
on account of the roughness of these parts. This
adventitious covering renders them very difficult
to find. The usual remedies for the Turnip flea
beetleare recommended, or nitrate of soda sprinkled
along the rows. One of the spring-tails (Smyn-
thurus lutea) is reported on for the first time. It
was found injuring Turnip crops in Aberdeenshire.
It feeds on the leaves, generally on the undersides.
These spring-tails are very small, measuring
only the thirty-second of an inch in length.
They are of a yellow or orange colour.
Three species of ground beetle — Pterostichus
madidus, Harpatus ruficornis and Calathus ris-
tiloides — are important as being destructive to ripe
Strawberries. The ground beetles, of which there
are a large number of .species, are very active
insects with sharp jaws, and are usually carni-
vorous, their structure and habits being well
fitted for preying on other insects; it is, however,
evident that they relish Strawberries. In market

THE GARDEN

[May 4, 1895

gardens where a considerable acreage is under
Strawberries it may be questionable whether it is
good policy to destroy them or not; but in private
gardens I should strongly advise that they should
not be killed, as the amount of service they and
their grubs do in destroying other insects is very
great. Placing straw or lawn mowings under
Strawberries is, I consider, a very questionable
proceeding, as both harbour garden pests of various
kinds. It is much better to employ some other
means of keeping the fruit off the ground, such
as the wire guards made for that purpose.
The appendix of 42 pages gives, as the authoress
says in a note at the commencement, " In a con-
nected form such an abstract of the minor points
of information regarding warble fly, contributed
to me by British observers as would place all that
is requisite regarding the history of the infesta-
tion, as it has been observed in this country,
together with proved means of prevention and
remedy, in a conveniently available form before
those practically interested." This abstract has
evidently been prepared with much care and
trouble, as the amount of statistics given in
various tables shows most conclusively. It should
certainly be studied by all who are engaged in
breeding cattle. G. S. S.

THE HORTICULTURAL HANDBOOK AND

EXHIBITORS' GUIDE.*

This book was first published about twelve years
ago under the title of "The Horticultural Ex-
hibitors' Handbook," and the appearance of a new
edition with a slightly altered title and revised by
Mr. Dunn, of Dalkeith, may be taken as some
evidence of its usefulness to the class for whom it
has been compiled. The main body of the work
remains the same as in the first edition, being
separated into four divisions, dealing respectively
with plants, cut flowers, fruit and vegetables.
These divisions are divided into sections, that of
plants, for example, being very comprehensive.
Nearly all of both the flowering and fine-foliaged
plants that appear at shows are alphabetically
arranged, and concise, practical cultural in-
structions are given as to growth and training
to secure exhibition specimens. Even those who
never exhibit would find much here that could be
read with profit, as the details of culture have the
same practical value to all. In the supplement the
Rose, Carnation, and Chrysanthemum have been
revised, because of the considerable additions made
to these three great families of flowers within the
last decade. Some of the best Tea Roses, as
Edith Gifford, are left out, and the selection
nothing like so good as it should be. A classi-
fication of competitors is given also. This may
be useful, but the disputes that arise are more
from the loose way in which schedules are drawn
up than from any difficulty of defining the differ-
ence between practical and amateur gardeners.
The supplement concludes with a chapter explain-
ing a new system of judging horticultural ex-
hibits "by a simple and easy method which,
while doing full justice to cultural merit as the
leading object of award, aims at giving fair credit
as to the relative value of the exhibits."

German books on forestry. — Dr. Schlich
kindly sends us the following in reply to a
question on the subject: If you want a com-
pact book on forestry, the whole in one large
volume, get " Lehrbuch der Forstwissenschaft,"
von Carl Fischbach, latest edition. I only have
the third edition (1877), published by Julius
Springer, Berlin. I presume he also brought out
the later editions. A somewhat more modern work
is " Encyklopiidie und Methodologie der Forst-
wissenschaft," by Dr. R. Hess, published by
C. H. Beck, Munich (three parts). If you wish to
go into full details get the following: "Der
Waldbau," by K. Gayer ; Paul Parey, Berlin.

* " The Horticultural Handbook and Exhibitors'
Guide." By Mr. W. Williamson, Tarvit, Fife.
Revised bv Malcolm Dunn. (\V. Blackwood and
Sons. lt'JS.)

"Der Forstschutz," by Dr. R. Hess; Teubner,
Leipsic. A translation of this is in the press and
will be out shortly. " Die Forstbenutzung," by
K. Gayer ; Paul Parey, Berlin. " Die Holzmess-
kunde," by F. Bauer; Paul Parey, Berlin. "Die
Waldwethrechnung," by Heyer, latest edition by
Wimmenauer ; Teubner, Leipsic. "Die Forstein-
richtung," by Judeish, Dresden, Schiinfelds, Bush-
harndlung. The translation of Hess's "Forst-
schutz" is in type. The translation of Gayer's
"Foriat Utilisation" ought to come out before
the end of the present year. Volume 3 of my
"Manual of Forestry," containing forest mensura-
tion, valuation and forest working plans, has just
been published by Messrs. Bradbury, Agnew
and Co.

Garden Flora.

plate 1012.

THE COLLEGE GARDEN SLIPPER- WORT-

(with a coloured plate of calceolaria
bukbidgei.*)
This is a hybrid, raised in the College Botanic
Gardens, Dublin, from seeds cross-fertilised in
the autumn of 1879. The parent plants were
C. deflexa (Botanical Magazine, t. 0431), a species
perhaps more generally known as C. fuchsiie-
folia in gardens, and figured under that name in
The Garden, vol. xv., plate 258, where a full
and accurate review of the species may be found.
The male parent was the old Calceolaria Pavoni,
named in honour of the traveller Pavon, and
figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 4525.
C. deflexa is also a Peruvian plant, introduced
in 1878, and, as its specific name implies, it is
remarkable for its smooth and glossy, Fuchsia-
like leaves. The only element of doubt as to
the above parentage is that a plant or two of
the well-known C. amplexicaulis (Botanical
Magazine, t. 4300) was in bloom in an adjacent
greenhouse, and it is just possible that some
insect may have carried its pollen to the stig-
mas of C. deflexa, which I had only touched
with pollen from C. Pavoni. Personally, I
should have had no suspicion of this having taken
place, all the evidence of the hybrid plant itself
bearing in the contrary direction ; but when
Dr. John Macfarlane was making his series of
microscopic studies of the minute structure of
various hybrid plants at Edinburgh some
years ago I sent him C. Burbidgei, together
with both its parents, and he then thought
that be detected signs of C. amplexicaulis in
the hybrid. Be this as it may, the result
is a free-growing plant of robust habit of
growth, having hoary, opposite, perfoliate leaves,
in this respect somewhat resembling C. Pavoni.
It is hardier and more free-flowering than
that species and blooms from November until
March in a sunny greenhouse.

This hybrid plant was named by Mr. W. E.
Gumbleton, of Belgrove, in The Garden, vol.
xix., 1881, at p. 59 of the number for January
15, the name employed being C. hybrida Bur-
bidgei. At a later date Mr. Goldring found ths
plant flowering at Kew, and Mr. Cannell also
gave it a trial at Swanley as a winter-blooming
plant with some success. As a pot plant, how-
ever, I could never do much with it, but as a
greenhouse pillar climber, planted out in a bed
of loam, peat and sand, it grows 10 feet to 15
feet in height and blooms most profusely all
the winter and spring months. Its habit is
really semi-herbaceous, for although it never
dies down and is always more or less evergreen,

* Drawn for The Garden in the Rojal Gardens,
Kew, by H. G. Moon, Nov. 17, 1891. Lithographed
and printed by Guillauiue Severeyns.

it sends up a new crop of shoots from the base
every summer, and when these have attained
a height of from 3 feet to 5 feet it is best to cut
nearly all the old blooming growths away, so
as to make room for the younger ones. As so
treated my plant — one of the original seedlings
— has occupied the same position in a cool
greenhouse for fourteen years. In fact, to have
it at its best it requires liberal root room, good
open compost, and plenty of head room near
the light for its great panicles of clear yellow
flowers. The plant will not be found in " Index
Kewensis," from which work garden hybrids
are excluded, but it is mentioned in Nicholson's
" Dictionary of Gardening," vol. i., p. 239, and
notes of its having bloomed in various places
occur in The Garden and other horticultural
papers from time to time. The plant is easily
propagated from cuttings at any time during
the spring and summer months, and it is, as
indicated above, a rapid grower. In The
Garden, vol. xx., p. 422, Mr. T. Smith alludes
to C. Burbidgei as improving on longer acquaint-
ance, and also mentions that he effected the
same cross, but whereas my own crop of seed-
lings was all exactly alike, with a strong bias
towards C. Pavoni, his were different, pro-
ducing " every form of foliage from a slight
departure from the seed parent to that of the
pollen parent almost pure and simple." It
would be interesting to know if Mr. Smith's-
seedlings showed any marked differences when
they flowered.

On glancing over the older volumes of the
Botanical Magazine, Botanical Register, and
other botanical and horticultural publications
of half a century or so ago wherein many spe-
cies of Calceolaria, at that time but recently
imported, are illustrated, one regrets that
the old species or wild varieties are so rarely
seen in our greenhouses to-day. Many of
the sub-shrubby kinds are nearly hardy, and
some are most graceful in habit, while others
have flowers most quaint in form and brilliant
in colour. The dainty little C. FothergOli,
from the cold and wind-swept Falkland Isles,
and C. Kellyana, one of the early garden hy-
brids, have grown and flowered here out of
doors, and the pretty little annual C. chelidoni-
oides is naturalised in many gardens. C. ru-
gosa, yellow, and C. violacea, both shrubby
kinds, are also hardy in mild localities, and
well worth careful culture. The essential cha-
racters of form and colour of the College
Garden (Dublin) Slipper-wort are beautifully
shown in the accompanying illustration.

F. VV. BlRBIDUE.

The Week'c Work.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Routine work. — Where large breadths of early
vegetables are grown there Mill now be plenty of
work in the shape of thinning out the young seed-
lings, using the Dutch hoe between the growing
crops. Upon no account allow such things as
Carrots, early Turnip-rooted Beetroot, and Spinach
to grow beyond the natural thinning size, or irre-
parable mischief will be done, as not only is
general weakness thereby encouraged, but the
work of pulling out the plants where thickly
clustered together opens the surface to such a
depth, that drought at the roots and its attendant
evils are bound to follow, especially on hot sandy
soils. In thinning Carrots proceed gently at the
first, as the Carrot fly is almost certain to be very
troublesome this season, especially in exposed
gardens, owing to parching winds and a scarcity
of atmospheric moisture. Immediately this pest

CALCEOL '-, EURBIDGEI

May 4, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

307

appears, dust with wood ashes pure and simple,
do not mix lime with it, as this is apt to burn the
tender growth, and the former ingredient is
always effectual. When sparrows attack the young
leaves of Beet, wood ashes will drive them away.
The same piecemeal system should be adopted
when thinning out the Beet, a second and final
thinning being given in about a fortnight's time,
should genial weather accompanied by showers
set in. A keen watch must be kept, as slugs and
snails are sure to be numerous, despite the severe
winter. The early morning is the best time to
search for the former, and the evening for the
latter pests, when they can be quickly despatched
by lime or salt. This should not be thrown on
to them where they are, but be put into a flower-
pot and the pests thrown into it, using a plant
label for the.purpose. Where the French Forcing
or any other of the earliest section of Carrots is
growing on raised beds in dry situations the crop
will now be greatly benefited by occasional water-
ings, the morning being preferable for this opera-
tion until the nights get warmer, when afternoon
watering will be best. I have sometimes given a
shallow mulch of spent Mushroom manure to early
Carrot beds with advantage.

Turnups. — Sowings at intervals of three weeks
will now be necessary where this vegetable is held
in esteem, as no root crop degenerates so rapidly
after arriving at maturity as Turnips, although

The centres only of the spaces between the rows
should be utilised, so that walking room is allowed
for gathering the Peas. As an actual summer
Radish no sort is equal to the red and white Turnip
kinds, these being firm and less liable to eat hot
or stringy. Although growing in shady places.
Radishes after this date must be regularly soaked
with water if tenderness and high flavour are
important. Moreover, nothing responds more
quickly to applications of manure water, but
after using this, clear water should always be
given to cleanse the tops.

Trif-oi.i OxiONS. — The surplus bulbs of the
Tripoli section which were transplanted as advised
during March will now be established and grow-
ing fast. It is a capital plan to mulch between
the rows with Mushroom manure, previously giving
a good dressing of some quick acting and safe
fertiliser. I find the Trebons a first-class Onion to
sow in autumn, and one that stands the winter even
better than the ordinary so-called winter Onion.
I have a small bed of it, and every plant looks
healthy and promises to swell out into normal
sized bulbs. They do not grow away so quickly
in the autumn, consequently they get less gross
and sappy and stand severe frost much better.
I believe some other varieties of spring Onion
would do equally well if sown in September on
firm ground not too heavily manured. In fact,
too much manure is an evil with all autumn sown

There is little fear of injury from drought at the
roots till the July crops commence to pod, and even
then I would advise moderate earthings only,
giving a good mulch of short litter on each side
of the rows to conserve the moisture. As each
sowing comes through the surface, protection
must at once be given, as not only are sparrows
more numerous than usual, but natural food more
scarce also.

FILLING ur blanks.— After a somewhat indif-
ferent harvest in 1804, many of the larger-seeded
marrow Peas are not germinating so well as could
be wished. Moreover, snowstorms were very
prevalent just after many sowings of this section
had been completed ; consequently much of the
seed has rotted. Under such circumstances, the
best, and indeed only, plan is to sow at once
either in boxes or pots, removing to a comfortable
greenhouse, or similar place, until growth is a
couple of inches high. Hardening off' may then
be quickly accomplished and the vacancies all
made up. The same may be said of Broad Beans,
these being very liable to rot in late spring and
in unfavourable soils. It will be as well after
planting to protect these heat-raised portions of
the rows by small sprays of Yew or Laurel.

Prickinc out and hardening off. — Whatever
press of other work there may be, the all-im-
portant operation of pricking off all crop3 now
in the rough leaf must not be neglected. Crops
of Celery will, in the majority of places, be fit for
this ordeal, and as soon as this is completed the
boxes, if such are used, should be at once re-
moved to frames, and after being duly sprinkled
and kept close for a few days exposed w> plenty of
pure air to stiffen and consolidate growth. Where
Celery is expected in September early sowings will
by this time be so far advanced as to warrant
removal from cool frames or pitfi to sheltered
corners in the open air, some means being adopted
for providing a slight screen from sharp frosts,
should such occur. The earliest Brussels Sprouts
may now be treated in exactly the same way to
prepare them for transplanting to the permanent
quarters the second week in May. A little artifi-
cial manure may well be given now, as if the
weather is unfavourable and planting postponed,
the plants are apt to suffer from want of nourish-
ment. Cold water from wells should not be used,
rather using that which has been exposed to the
action of the sun for a time. J. Craw ford.

The Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilif). See p

lifting and laying in under a north wall will in
a measure check this. After this date the
Early Milan should be replaced by the Snowball
and Six Weeks type, these being of rapid growth
and excellent flavour. To provide against failure,
several sorts may be sown at each sowing.
Dobbie's Model, a Turnip much resembling
Snowball, is a grand variety. So also is the old
Purple-top Munich. For those who are fond of
a yellow-fleshed sort Veitch's Golden Ball is as
good as any. A border which only receives the
sun's rays for a portion of the day is to be pre-
ferred for Turnip sowing now. In such a position
they come on gradually, do not flag at midday as
do those on south borders, and the maggot is far
less troublesome. Give a liberal but not over-rich
larder, sow thinly, and remove a percentage of
refuse plants directly they can be handled and
before they crowd each other. I strongly advise
the use of guano for Turnips in preference to farm-
yard compost, this latter, particularly on strong
land, inducing hollow bulbs and long tap roots.
June sowings do well on north borders if well
worked and exposed for several weeks to the
action of the air. Wood ashes cannot be too
freely used amongst Turnip crops, either when
digging the plot or as broadcast sowings, to be
hoed in immediately afterwards.

Radishes. — From the present to the expiration
of the outdoor season Radishes thrive much better
if favoured with partial shade. Where room is
abundant there is, of course, no necessity to sow
between rows of Peas, but they do well in such a
position and last a good time in eatable condition.

batches, assistance being easily given in spring
from the surface. Spring-sown rows will now
need the Dutch hoe between them, but thinning
can hardly be commenced until the surface has
been well moistened by genial rains, or the young

! seedlings will snap off, leaving the base of the
bulb and root in the ground only to grow away
again. Give a good coating of soot to ward off
the Onion maggot, always taking the precaution
to use it after having been exposed to the air for
some time. If sown over the crop soon after being
taken from chimneys it is apt to do more harm
than good.

Stakini; Peas. — This will now be necessary
with many early rows. There is, however, a
great deal more in staking Peas than many appear
to be aware of. No greater mistake can possibly
be made than to ram in a great number of thick
stakes on either side of the rows, thereby darken-
ing the space between and weakening and re-
tarding growth. Far better is it to employ a
moderate number of main sticks, filling in the in-
tervening spaces with smaller spray-like material.
This will admit a maximum amount of sun heat
and light, and if the haulm should eventually fall
through here and there, it may be brought back
and kept in its place by running tar twine or

\ coarse string the whole length of the rows, en-
twining them round the main stakes at intervals.
In regard to earthing up, much more is done of
this than is needed. For the earliest crops the
less earth drawn up to the Peas the better, as it
shuts out the sun's warmth and often throws off
rain which would otherwise descend to the roots.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Earliest Gkapes — pot Vines. — The very early
supplies are mostly obtained from pot Vines, and
to have good colour and the best flavour a lower
temperature with less atmospheric moisture must
be maintained. If the plants for next year's
forcing are not in their fruiting pots no time
should be lost in potting them, as the ripening
season is never too long, for the wood of pot Vines
to be forced early should be as hard as possible.
Pot firmly, burying a portion of the shoot. By
this means the plants root out freely at the base
and shorter jointed wood is secured. The com-
post should consist of good loam, some artificial
manure, wood ashes, or mortar rubble. If room
is required for the young plants, to save time I
have carefully transferred a few pot plants to a
cooler house, taking care to give enough water, as
the roots dry quickly after being plunged. A few
growers cut back their old canes early in the
autumn and force again, but I do not advise it
when young canes can be grown, as though the
old canes force more readily, they bear smaller
bunches. If it is desired to force again, re-pot
into pots two or three sizes larger, growing on
for a few weeks in a warm moist house, letting the
lateral growth run freely. In potting it is well
to remove drainage and strong roots, and when the
pots are full of new roots the plants should be
hardened off, removed to a sunny wail, carefully
watered and pruned early, leaving a couple of the
best buds or eyes at the base of this season's
wood.

Permanent Vines. — The fruit now colouring will
need more air and less atmospheric moisture, but

308

THE GARDEN.

[May 4, 1895.

it is well not to cease damping down even when
the Grapes are colouring, as the Vines will soon
get red spider unless a genial atmosphere is main-
tained. Leave air on the ventilators at night and
increase the amount during the day, with a nice
warmth in the pipes in cloudy or damp weather.
Grapes finally swelling should be thoroughly
watered at this stage, giving food now, as luter it
cannot be applied. A dressing of guano or liquid
manure may be given before watering. The berries
if at all thick may receive a final thinning. The
growth of early Vines will now be less vigorous,
and the laterals should be regulated freely overall
parts of the trellis, pinching back the strong ones,
but allowing the leaders or others required for ex-
tension to ramble freely at the back of the house.
This will promote root growth and greatly assist
in swelling up the buds at the base required for
next season's fruiting. Now is a good time to give
the inside borders a good surface dressing with
manures. For light sandy soils cow manure is
excellent, and if a little dried it does not run so
close together. I have used it and short stable
manure in equal quantities with advantage. The
mulch not only feeds the surface roots, but saves
the water-pot, and also prevents the spread of
insect pests by retaining moisture.

Succession houses. — These will now be at a
critical stage. Thinning will be the most press-
ing work, and with Vines in full growth it
is well to thin early, even if a second thinning
is necessary afterwards. In earlier notes on
thinning I have not advised such rigorous cutting
away of bunches as is now necessary, as there is
now little fear of bad setting in carefully-ventilated
houses. Muscats require more careful manage-
ment, as the least drought often affects the setting,
and in some old houses with little sunshine and
much rain it is well to assist by fertilising with
Hamburgh pollen, to maintain a high temperature,
with a free circulation of air all over the house,
and in bright weather to damp down during
the day. The temperature for Muscats at the
stage named may be 70° to 75° at night in mild
weather, allowing 70° during cold or windy
weather, with a free rise during the day up to 95°
at closing time. Houses recently started for late
Muscats need liberal treatment. There should be
no retarding after this date, as much better
results will follow 1 igh culture, and such Grapes
will keep better. Syringing overhead must cease
as soon as the Vines show the bunches freely, and
it is well to disbud early and remove superfluous
bunches. Muscats always show a profusion of
bunches, so that a good proportion may safely be
removed, and even then they will need another
thinning after the flowering period is safely past.
Vines in outside borders are slow in making new
roots until the growth is advanced, so that the
plants have not required water. It is well
to give a dressing of a good fertiliser, and wash
it in, doing the work when the sun warms the soil.
Should the soil be dry a watering now will tide
the Vines over the flowering. Inside borders
should likewise have a good soaking when the
bunches are showing freely, but food will not be
necessary till the fruit is set. The temperature
advised for earlier houses will apply to later Vines,
70° at night, with a rise of 10° to 15° by day,
avoiding a damp atmosphere at night when at the
critical stages.

Late Vines, such as Lady Downe's, Gros Colman,
and others, will likewise need encouragement and
pushing on, as with favourable weather there is
none too much time to perfect a good crop, and
for keeping, the fruit should be thoroughly matured
before the days get short and the nights cold and
damp. Hamburghs require less time than the
late kinds named above, but it is not wise to
retard even Hamburghs. Now is a good time to
add to outside borders if the late varieties are in
need of more room and are planted outside, as by
the time the roots are active the soil will be
warmed and in nice condition. Inside borders of
late houses need similar attention, and it is well to
do the work by the end of April or early in May.
Planting. — Planting Vines in outside borders is
best done at this season. These may be much

assisted by covering the surface over with warm
litter for a few weeks after planting should cold
sunless weather follow. This will allow of more
liberal treatment in the house, as the Vines will
form roots sooner and take hold of the new soil.
Any late planting of houses which are not doing
well may yet be done. For this work Vines struck
from eyes this season or from last season's canes
may be used. I have used both and got equally
good results. Should the last year's canes be
selected, these will have been under a north wall
in the open for a time, and if not cut back this
should be done. To prevent bleeding it is well to
lay the canes down on their sides, keeping dry for
a short time. They may be cut back to within a
few inches of the base and then allowed to break
slowly, planting in inside borders when a few inches
long or just as the new roots are starting. If
newly-struck Vines are used they may be planted
at any time when ready, but should there be any
delay or the house not be available, the Vines may
be planted in boxes or any other mode adopted to
allow the roots to run freely.

Forced Strawberries. — From this date the
pot plants will suffer badly if on exposed shelves
against a wall, and will require so much watering,
that the plants are most difficult to keep free of
red spider, no matter how well attended to in the
way of food and moisture. Many growers advise
saucers or other means to retain moisture, but I
do not advise this, the flavour of the fruit being so
much impaired. I do not think any system can
equal cold frames for plants well advanced and
required for late fruiting. The plants, stood on a
cool coal ash bottom, require less water, and the
fruits are equal to those from out-door plants.
Wherever a cold house or frame can be spared for
the latest lot there is a great saving of time with
watering. Plants in vineries or Peach houses
should be cleared away at the earliest moment
possible. Plants just setting their fruits in warm
pits do well plunged half-way in leaves or fibre if
the drainage be good. Grown in this way, it is
advisable to stake each truss and to air freely if
the pits are low and moist, using fire-heat till the
fruits are set and thinning early. Such varieties
as President, Sir J. Paxton, Sir C. Napier, and
British Queen are noted for their good crops and
quality if forced slowly to provide the late supplies.
The first three require severe thinning to get large
fruits and plenty of food when swelling the crop.
British Queen will do well with more warmth
during the setting and should be kept free of
mildew, as this variety and President are soon
much crippled if the pest is allowed to spread.
To check mildew syringe all parts of the plants
freely with sulphur and water, and dust the soil
or shelves with dry sulphur when the house is dry,
keeping the plants dry overhead for a few days
after applying the sulphur. When introduc-
ing plants into warm houses at this date it is
well to dress with sulphur before giving much
warmth, as once mildew appears it soon spreads
to other plants. A little attention should now be
paid to the runners planted last July or August
for the supply of forced material this season.
The flower trusses must be removed as they show,
and in dry weather the plants well repay copious
supplies of liquid manure or water. If the latter,
give a surface dressing of guano before watering,
and in poor or light soils mulch with manure
between the rows. This will encourage the plants
to form very early runners for layering. As a
mulch, spent Mushroom or old Cucumber beds
answer well. G. Wtthes.

The golden flowering- Currant (Ribes au-
reum) — Although thisshrubhasarivalnowin bloom
(also with yellow flowers) in the shape of Forsythia
suspensa, whose attractions, this season especially,
are so brilliant as to put it somewhat in the shade
when both are seen at a distance, it is, I think, at
close quarters a shrub of almost equal charm. Its
neat foliage is at this early stage of a singularly
pleasing tender shade of green, and intermingles
most effectively with the short crowded flower-
spikes. This species is one (like R. sanguineum)

whose flowers vary a good deal in size and colour.
In the better varieties the flower individually is
close on half an inch in diameter, with five oval
petals. The colour is always yellow, but ranges
from a rather pale shade to golden or orange.
The variety aurantiacum is perhaps the best,
having not only richly-coloured large flowers,
but it is also of a sturdier habit than is com-
mon to the species as a whole. The leaves, quite
smooth and free from hairs and consisting of
three lobes, measure each from 1 inch to 1J inches
across. The flower-spikes are slightly drooping
and 2 inches to '.1 inches long. The shrub does
not often attain a greater height than 6 feet or 8
feet. Like the other flowering Currants, it can
be easily and rapidly increased by cuttings. It
was introduced from North-western America in
1812.— B.

Kitchen Garden.

TOMATOES IN THE OPEN.

When we have such a summer as that of 1893
there is no difficulty in growing heavy crops of
well-ripened Tomatoes. Not only did the plants
growing against sunny walls and fences produce
grand crops, but those quite in the open suc-
ceeded nearly as well. Even self-sown plants
left to take their chance gave a considerable
weight of fruit, much of which ripened. We
neither expect nor desire many such hot dry
summers, but if we only get a little more sun-
shine than we had last year, or say a good aver-
age season, then there is every likelihood of
Tomatoes more than repaying for what little
trouble is expended on them. If it should
happen that more ripe fruit is forthcoming than
is wanted for immediate use, any good house-
keeper or cook ought to know how to store or
otherwise utilise these, while the unripe fruit
can be made into fairly good preserve and is
excellent in a pickled state.

Too often Tomatoes are raised a month or six
weeks earlier than they ought to be. Kept
standing about in a badly root-bound state, the
plants are sure to become leggy, the stems also
hardening. Those raised later, the seed being
sown, say, early in April, can be grown rapidly
to a serviceable size in a temperature a little
higher than is needed by ordinary greenhouse
plants, and not being badly root-bound, they
take more quickly to the soil in which they are
finally planted. Late raised plants may be
planted out of 4-inch pots, while those raised
earlier have to be shifted into the 0-inch size,
and even then become badly root-bound. One
of the consequences of this turning out root-
bound plants is the inevitable loss of their first
bunch of bloom, the younger ones behaving
better in this respect, and being usually the first
to give ripe fruit. Soil that will grow Potatoes
profitably will be quite as well suited to Toma-
toes. When, however, that found at the foot
of hot dry walls and fences is of a poor nature,
and probably hard and dry, remove it to a width
of 15 inches and 1 foot deep, replacing with
fresh loam with a little manure added, or, failing
the loam, the best garden soil available. In
some instances, all that is needed is a little fresh
soil and rotten manure mixed with the old
soil. Good crops of Tomatoes are sometimes
had without the addition of either fresh soil or
manure. If in a dry state, break it up and
give a thorough soaking of water or liquid
manure the day previous to planting. The
plants should be well hardened off and planted
out during the first week in June. If plentiful,
arrange them 12 inches apart and keep them to

May 4, 1895.

THE GARDEN.

309

a single stem ; if scarce, dispose them 3 feet
apart and lay in two side shoots so as to have
three main growths 1 foot apart. Should head
room be limited, train obliquely, otherwise take
them straight up the wall or fence, not stopping
the leaders till four or five bunches of fruit are
formed or showing. From first to last not a
superfluous side shoot should be allowed to de-
velop. If left till they need a knife to remove
them they will have weakened the plants to no
purpose ; therefore, pinch them out as fast as
they show at the base of the plants and at the
axils of the leaves. Leave the primary leaves
intact till such time as ripening of fruit com-
mences, when they may be shortened to about
half their original size so as to admit of all the
sunshine possible reaching the clusters. If the
soil was made very firm about the roots, there
is little likelihood of the growth being unduly
soft and shy-bearing, and, as a rule, it pays
well to mulch with short manure and also to
water occasionally till the plants are fairly well
established, and subsequently during very dry,
hot weather.

Those n ho have neither garden walls nor fences
may yet be successful in growing Tomatoes
without these aids. I once grew extra heavy
crops on plants trained up the front brick wall
and on to the roof of a low forcing house, a tem-
porary raised border being provided for the
roots. Wooden screens fixed in a sunny posi-
tion are sometimes utilised for Tomato cultuie,
while thousands of plants are annually grown,
with varying success, quite in the open. These
may be dotted thinly among early Potatoes
or planted in close succession to any lifted extra
early. In the former case the Tomatoes might
be planted 12 inches to 15 inches apart in every
second furrow between the Potatoes, and they
may be arranged on clear ground the same dis-
tance apart in rows running from north to
south and from 3 feet to 4 feet apart, or be put
out about 30 inches apart each way. Each iso-
lated plant should have a strong 4-feet stake
placed early against it and be kept well secured
to this, topping it when near the top of the
stake and closely removing all side shoots. The
plants sometimes produce exceptionally heavy
crops under such conditions. A Rovek.

Drumhead Lettuce. — I was very pleased •■

read the practical notes by Mr. Wythes ip. 233

summer Lettuces. I quite agree with him as to the
value of the Drumluad Lettuce. I have found it a
most reliable Lettuce in Scotland *or summer culture,
being equally good in heavy and light soils, 'to pro.
duce first-class Lettuces on poor or sandy soils that
dry quickly in the height of summer, I would reci m-
mend manuring and digging in late autumn or earl;
winter, re-manuring and digging in spring. In this
way the old and decayed manure turns up and is mixed
with the surface soil, giving the young seedlings a
quick start. — J. Craigie, Auchenloshan Gardens,
Dulmuir.

A good summer Cauliflower. — For sowing
at this date or earlier, few varieties are superior to
Veitch's Pearl, a remarkably fine main-crop va-
riety. This variety is far superior to the Early
London, nearly as large, but with a pure white
curd of extremely delicate flavour. For summer
use it may always be relied upon. For some years
I have grown it between the rows of tall Peas, and
it has never failed even in dry seasons ; the heads
being well covered by foliage do not open so
quickly as those of Early London. If sown in March
and again at this date there will be a succession of
good heads all through the summer months till
the autumn Cauliflowers come in. I do not
advise growing it for early spring planting. —
G. W.

Frame Marrows. — If the plants can be given
a little warmth at the root and shelter overhead
by frames for a few weeks there is a great saving
of time and fruit can be had very early. Frame

Vegetable Marrows are a paying crop if planted
under glass at the end of April and given
shelter for about six weeks. I am aware many
plant in frames in which early Potatoes have
been raised, but there is no warmth at the roots,
indeed, the reverse, the soil in some cases being
impoverished and in a wet state. By re-making
the bed — that is, adding new heating material —
there is much time saved and the plants will fur-
nish much better crops for a longer period. Those
at all short of manure may with advantage pot on
their plants and thus get strong material for
planting For this purpose, plants, if raised singly
in 4|-inch pots and then given a shift into 9-inch
ones, will show fruit freely when planted out. I
do not like sowing too early, as if the plants get
stunted they are a long time in making a start
when planted out. It is a good plan to plant out
of the seed pot if one can give the room. If only
one plant is allowed to grow in a 5-inch pot, two
or more seeds may be sown, thinning to the
strongest, as only a little warmth is needed for a
short time. It is an easy matter to dig out a small
square of the old bed, refilling with new heating
material, and planting in a few days. The
earliest frame Marrows I have grown are
Long White and Pen-y-byd. The Long White,
though a large grower, is one of the earliest
if the shoots are kept stopped. Pen-y-byd is a
dwarfer grower and a splendid frame Marrow,
sets freely under glass, matures rapidly, and
when cooked is of delicious flavour. I have grown
this variety in a pot and it did better than any
others with restricted root space. — B. M.

Lettuce Golden Queen. — Rarely has there
been such a scarcity of Lettuce as there is at the
present time. In my case not a single plant is left
from the autumn sowing, though protected by
frames and grown in great quantities. Fearing
what would follow the severe frost after a mild
winter, I sowed Golden Queen in February in boxes
and planted it out at the middle of March in frames
with a little warmth. At this date (the third
week in April) the plants are just turning in. This
is the quickest growing Lettuce I have tried, and
though small will be invaluable during the next
few weeks. Golden Queen forms nice small hearts,
somewhat after the Tom Thumb variety, the leaves
being of a golden or very light green colour. Be-
ing a small grower, it occupies little space and is
well worth frame culture. It is of a particularly
delicate flavour. — S. H. B.

Black Currant Rhubarb. — Is it generally
known that there is a variety of Rhubarb the
stalk of which resembles in point of colour the
juice of the Black Currant, and can anyone give
the name of the variety? When going through
the kitchen gardens connected with Chilton
House, the Somerset residence of Mr. A. J.
Goodford, I noticed several large clumps of a dis-
tinct and, to me, quite unknown variety of Rhu-
barb. In my estimation it fully merits the pro-
minent position assigned it in an old-fashioned
and attractive garden owing to its ornamental
appearance. The variety would appear to be as
early as the common early red forms, but the
stalks are scarcely so stout and the leaves more
acuminate. It is the colour that attracts. The
rich dark crimson stalk seems to carry a heavj'
bloom, and this adds to the beauty of the stalks.
Not only does this Rhubarb resemble the Black
Currant in point of colour, but the flavour is also
said to be not unlike that of the latter. It is
greatly esteemed for making jam, and with the
colour and flavour of Black Currant added the
advance on the ordinary Rhubarb for a similar
purpose ought to be unmistakable. The clumps
alluded to have occupied their present position
for many years past, the original roots having been
received as a present by Mrs. Goodford. More
than that I am unable to state, not caring to
make further inquiries till I know for certain
whether the variety is known to any of the readers
of The Garden.— W. I.

Cabbage Early Rainham.— This is by no

means a new variety, but one that is very hard to
beat for earliness, quality, and freedom from bolt-

ing. It has a remarkably good constitution, this
being evidenced in several places hereabouts this
spring, the plants looking strong and already
commencing to heart in. In the neighbourhood
of Rainham and Barking, Essex, this Cabbage is
grown in large quantities for market, and I have
an idea that Ellam's Dwarf is nothing more nor
less than a selection of the above variety. Its
table quality is of the finest — J. C.

Carrot Veitch's Matchless. — For present
sowing this recent introduction is superior to any
variety I have grown. For some years I sowed
James's Intermediate for main crop, and though
excellent in many ways it is not nearly so heavy a
cropper as Matchless, the newer variety being
firmer, keeping better, more vigorous and doing
well in soils where other sorts fail. I have grown
it for three years as a main crop variety. In the
dry season of 1893, in a thin, gravelly soil Match-
less turned out well, other Carrots cracking badly
when lifted in the autumn after rain. — S. H. B.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

THE APPLE BLOSSOM.

THOUGH most other fruit trees are very scantof
bloom, the Apples have never looked more
promising. This is not only the case with old
standards in orchards, but most of the young
trees are also well furnished with fruit buds. The
other evening I was walking through an orchard
which was planted about ten years age. The
person to whom it belongs takes a great delight
in his fruit trees, and though by no means a
professional, is one of the few in this district
who get anything like an adequate return for
their labours. Last year, which was by no
means a plentiful one for Apples, there was a
goodly sprinkling on some of the trees. Now
those who are strong advocates for close pruning
would do well to visit an orchard like this ; it
would go a long way to convince them that
though pruning is an art, those who practise it
the least secure the best crops of fruit. I also
visited another orchard the trees in which had
been pruned in the orthodox manner, and
scarcely a bloom bud was visible on some of
them, so closely had the shoots been cut in. Now
one would think that a lesson might be learned
in this manner even by those who consider them-
selves professionals. Most of the Apple trees in
the former orchard were grafted by the person
who owns it, he having selected the Crab stock,
and it is curious to note the difference in their
growth, some doing remarkably well, while
others refuse to grow altogether. Trees of Eck-
linville which have grown to a good size pro-
duce fine crops of fruit most seasons ; the wood
is clean and free from any specks, with not the
least sign of canker in the trees. The same may
be said of Lane's Prince Albert growing close by.
From ihese the ground slopes rapidly to the
east, and on the lower side where the soil is
much more retentive these varieties canker
badly. Cox's Orange Pippin also does well on
the upper portion of the orchard, and the same
may be said of several others, such, for instance,
as Pott's Seedling, The Queen, Cox's Pomona,
Wormsley Pippin, Loddington, Tower of Gla-
mis, Yorkshire Greening, and several others.
The varieties that do badly are Stirling Castle,
Peasgood's Nonsuch, Bibston Pippin, New
Hawthornden, Cellini, Lord Suffield, Warner's
King, Wellington, and some of the more tender
dessert kinds. From this it would seem that
when planting Apple trees even in the same
orchard the more tender kinds should have the
best situations. If more attention were paid
to this, the robust and hardy sorts would in

310

THE GARDEN.

[May 4, 1835.

ome measure shelter the others. There is
often a vast difference in the soil of a small
piece of ground, especially iu hilly districts
where it slopes rapidly, for while the upper
portion will in all probability be well drained,
naturally that at the bottom may be quite wet,
and therefore unfit for the growth of some
kiuds. In such places it is not only drains that
are needed, but rubble of some kind should be
put under each tree to keep the soil sweet.

It is too soon to form any idea of what our
Apple crop may be, but from all appear-
ance the fruit orchards will present a beautiful
sight in a few weeks' time. Some of the more
hardy kinds would doubtless make pleasant
features if planted alongside the woodland
walks where the land is suitable. Their flowers
in spring, like those of the wild Cherry, Crab,
and some others, would be most attractive. The
Old Hawthornden and King of the Pippins
would be two good varieties for this purpose,
the rosy buds of the latter being very attractive.

Btixted Park, Uckfiehl. H. C. P.

Freely-grown fruit trees. — Journeying
through the home counties recently, I noticed a
tendency to allow a more natural freedom of
growth to fruit trees. This is a healthy sign, but
injury is likely to accrue from a crowded growth.
This is more likely to occur with trees which have
been hard pruned for years and now within the
last year or so allowed to extend. By thinning
out the growths so that direct light can have free
access to every part of the tree, the fruit will be
finer and the foundation laid for a generally
fruitful habit. In any case where the growth is
crowded surplus shoots could now be cut away.
If this is done carefully there need be little or no
fear of damaging the buds. — Y. A. H.

Peach Amsden June. — It mav interest some
of those who have been bothered with the un-
certain character generally of most of the American
Peaches to learn that Amsden June can be
depended on. For some years past I have grown
Amsden June on the open wall, where it does
capitally, ripening at the end of July. Acting on
the advice of Mr. Wythes, of Syon House, with
whom it does well, I last year planted a tree of
this variety in a span-roofed house, and although
the tree cannot yet be said to be established it is
bearing a nice lot of fruit, which is well advanced
and has every appearance of going on to maturity.
The fruit is of good size and splendid colour, the
flavour also being good. I grow Waterloo and
have grown Alexander, but neither of them is so
early as Amsden June. Those who want extra
early Peaches should give Amsden June a trial. —
J. C.

Blister on Peach trees. — I think it has, as
stated by "W. G. C." (p. 276) been proved that
what is known as "blister," which appears upon
the foliage of Peach trees, is of fungoid origin,
such attacks being aggravated by the cold winds
and low temperature of early spring. These con-
ditions appear to be necessary for the fungus
spores to develop. Its hereditary tendency is
also, I think, proved, and in many gardens the
source of blister has b?en traced to a single
tree, perhaps purchased from a nursery where
this blister fungus was prevalent. As evidence
of this I will give a case in point, and which
was vouched for to me as a fact by a well-
known gardener and fruit grower. In the
garden which he had charge of, trees purchased
from a nursery where the fungus was known
to be, perpetuated the evil as each season for
its occurrence came round, but it wa9 entirely
destroyed when clean trees were procured from
another source and the older trees cleared out and
burned. In this garden blister is comparatively
unknown : at least, during the past nine years
I may have pulled off two dozen leaves, but,
strange as it may appear, these affected leaves
appear about the same part of the wall annually
in the direct line of cutting winds, and which

the protecting cover does not quite reach. I
have never tried any fungicide for blister, ae
this has never been needed, but if this is a sure
cure, blister should be stamped out of every gar-
den where it is tried and used. I have never
seen blister in unheated houses or under wall
cases, which gives me the impression that with
clean trees to start with and effectual covering
afterwards, blister should not prove troublesome.
Trees which are crippled in the earlier stages of
growth, whether through blister or insects, how-
ever clean and free the growth may be afterwards,
will never produce satisfactory crops of fruit. —
A Young, Abberky Hall.

APPLE KING OF THE PIPPINS.

No dessert Apple is better known than the
above, and it is more widely cultivated than
any other sort that I know of. In some
parts of England and also in portions of Scot-
land and Wales it is best known as Prince's
Pippin, but under whatever name it is grown
it is very popular, the tree being very prolific
on almost all soils, very hardy, and under good
management the flavour of the fruit is excellent.
In some of the most suitable parts of the
country for hardy fruit culture the quality of
King of the Pippins is all that can be desired
and only second to Cox's Orauge and Bibston
Pippins, but it is infinitely superior to both

Apple King of the Pippins.

in productiveness and healthy, vigorous growth.
In some of the western counties, especially
Herefordshire, the variety has been extensively
planted for many years, the majority of large
and small gardens, also orchards, having a few
trees therein which rarely fail to crop well, or
if they do fail, it arises from exhaustion follow-
ing a very heavy load of fruit. When trees of
King of the Pippins are supplied with copious
quantities of liquid or solid manure the season
must be a bad one indeed if no fruit is forth-
coming ; in fact, I have yet to see such trees
fail entirely, which is more than I could state of
any other variety. This being a fact, it is mar-
vellous that planters, both for home con-
sumption and for market, do not plant more of
such a sterling variety. It may perhaps be
stated by market growers that there are more
profitable varieties of Apples than King of the
Pippins. While admitting that there are cook-
ing varieties that are more remunerative, I must
confess to not having yet grown any dessert
Apple that will pay so well over a series of years.
Taking the past ten years' prices, I find the
average comes out at a little over 14s. per cwt.,
and as many bush trees under skilled manage-
ment on good soils will easily produce from
I cwt. to i cwt. of fruit per tree, it may soon

be calculated what the returns should be in
fruitful seasons from an acre of land. There
are so many absolutely worthless varieties of
Apples, that both large and small growers should
set their face against planting any sorts but
those that are known to be really good all-round
varieties, such as the one now named. Another
advantage possessed by King of the Pippins is
its popularity in all markets, as nicely-coloured
and properly graded fruit will command equally
satisfactory prices in the northern or southern
markets. In this respect it differs from Cox's
Orange Pippin, which is practically of no value
in the north and realises a very high figure in
London.

As many trees of King of the Pippins will now
be in bloom, or setting their fruit, I would sug-
gest liberal treatment at the roots to assist to
the utmost the efforts to produce a crop.
Natural manures are excellent, as they are a
complete plant food and supply all the elements
necessary to plant life ; but, unfortunately, many
gardeners and others cannot obtain sufficient of
this fertiliser, and are obliged to rely on so-called
artificial manures, when there can be no ques-
tion as to their great usefulness and feeding
power if judiciously applied. By applying now
2 cwt. of muriate of potash and 3 cwt. of super-
phosphate, w ell mixed together, to each acre of
land devoted to Apple trees, the-
trees will be much invigorated,
and of course the fruit will derive
benefit as well not only in size,
but later on in colour. Our soil
is moderately light, and since
using the above manures the
Apples of all varieties have shown
a marked improvement ; but I
Ihink none have shown it in so
great a degree as King of the
Pippins, the colour especially
being fine and the flavour rich
and juicy, making it valuable for
all purposes about Christmas.
W. G. C.

Strawberry Gunton Park. — I

have this season forced this new
Strawberry, and consider it a valu-
able acquisition. Growing about
one hundred plants, the runners
having been secured from maiden
plants early in the season, I was
enabled to form a better idea as to cropping quali-
ties than from plants purchased late and which
may have borne a crop. The fruit of this variety is of
a brisk, pleasant flavour and fine colour, and when
well grown comes of a large size ; indeed I consider
it one of the most handsome Strawberries grown.
It forces well and sets so freely that it requires
severe thinning. The flesh is firm and the fruits
may be sent a long distance, arriving in fine con-
dition. The plants resemble La Grosse Sucrc'e in
cropping, and the fruits swell so evenly, that there
are very few small ones. I intend this season to
secure all the runners possible and to grow Gunton
Park largely.— G. W.

Planting Figs in the open. — Many have
ceased to grow Figs on walls on account of their
failing to crop freely. Barren trees could be
made fruitful if more attention were paid to thin-
ning the shoots in the growing season and keeping
the roots under control. In planting young trees
the roots should be carefully spread out, and as
pot trees are the best for planting, select those
with leaders. Plant in good loam, with a liberal
portion of old mortar rubble, wood ashes, or burnt
garden refuse. To promote a fruitful growth
restrict the border by only allowing a certain
space, and to do this, tiles, bricks or slates may
be employed. Plant firmly and water freely as
growth increases, giving a mulch of spent manure
at midsummer. Figs could be grown on many

May 4, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

311

walls if the trees were looked after in the way of
laying in new wood yearly, not shortening the
leading branches. The fruit being produced at
the end of the shoots, these if cut back only pro-
duce wood. It is a good plan in the late summer
to shorten back a certain number of shoots by
pinching and to leave sufficient leaders to extend
the trees. These at this season may be laid in,
merely removing barren growths. — G. W.

Grape Bowood Muscat.— I read some time
ago (I think from the pen of the veteran Mr.
Douglas) remarks on Bowood Muscat, and what-
ever may be said to the contrary I believe the
variety so named is distinct from the Muscat of
Alexandria. I was an underling in Wiltshire when
that Muscat was brought to notice and sent out by
the late Mr. Spencer. I saw in one house over
two thousand growing, and was told they were
all practically sold. Many experienced growers
admitted that it was distinct, some giving it other
names, but I know that many cultivators did not see
thedistinction, and classed itwithM. of Alexandria.
I know some nursery friends who have sold the
Vines under different names, but believed they
were alike. I have grown it (Bowood Muscat) when
the stiff habit of bunch, free setting, and hardier
constitution were very pronounced, and were
easily noticed among the M. of Alexandria by the
most casual observer. I planted two Vines of it
here, but probably they were propagated from the
same Vines which supplied the M. of Alexandria.
A short time ago I visited a Forfarshire garden
where a Vine under the name of Bowood Muscat
appears to be remarkably distinct, and the intelli-
gent gardener in charge said that every year the
habit of Bowood Muscat was dissimilar to that of
the M. of Alexandria in the same house. Mr.
Murray, gardener at Parkhall (who is one of the
most extensive Grape growers in Scotland), holds
that there are distinctive habits in the two Vines,
but I fear that this is a matter which now cannot
be cleared up. The Cannon Hall Muscat, though
not equal to the Muscat of Alexandria for flavour,
is much larger in berry, and when grown, as by
Mr. Kay at Finchley, worth going many miles to
see. — M. Temi'LE, Canon, Stirlingshire.

Liquid manure for fruit trees. — The advice
given by " E.M." (page 276) concerning the appli-
cation of liquid manure to the roots of established
Apple trees is worthy of notice. Many people
who have orchards might get double the quantity
of fruit and of an infinitely better quality by
pouring the liquid from the farmyard around
their Apple trees instead of letting it go to
waste. House sewage is most valuable for the
purpose, but where the orchard is grass-covered
it should be diluted considerably, or it will kill
the grass. In an orchard a few miles from here,
where the trees were very old and showing signs
of exhaustion, house sewage was applied during
the winter, with the result that fine healthy
growth and abundance of large fruit were pro-
duced the next season. Farmers in particular
who have plenty of horse and cow urine might
preserve their orchard trees in a fruitful and
profitable condition by its judicious annual use,
and that, too, without a great deal of labour. All
orchards are further improved by being surface-
turned previous to the liquid being applied. This
admits air and warmth the following spring, and
induces the roots to come to the surface. I have
no doubt that all kinds of hardy fruit trees would
be equally benefited by the same treatment, also
Vines. If, however, the border in which the
latter are growing is composed of strong loam or
is at a low elevation, injury might ensue from the
winter use of liquid manure. — J. Crawford.

Strawberries forced in boxes. — For some
years, when I lived where timber was readily
procured on the estate, I made it answer well
in the case of Strawberries for the May and early
June supply, and never had better fruit and
with less labour. The boxes were made during
the winter, the material being rough Larch wood
cut by machine into strips 6 inches wide and
an inch thick. The boxes were 6 inches deep
when made, and six plants were placed in each

box, the length being 2 feet 6 inches by 12 inches
wide. Narrower boxes, with only one row of
plants, would be advisable for narrow shelves, but
I grew the plants on stages in pits and the size
named just filled the standing space, and the
boxes, if not required for Strawberries, were
useful for other things. By growing plants in
this way there is not the continual drying as when
in pots and the fruits are of excellent flavour. I
do not advise this mode of culture for early
forcing, but for the season named, and if the
boxes can be placed end to end close to the glass
in frames with space between the sides, a lot of
fruit may be grown in a small space. It is neces-
sary to stake the trusses of fruit, to thin early,
and feed liberally. The boxes require very little
drainage, and during growth, after being planted,
should be stood on a rack or strips of wood to
allow of moisture draining away freely. For
boxing I never used pot plants, but layered the
runners into square pieces of turf, the latter
being let into the soil or bed with a trowel when
layering. These runners did well when placed in
the boxes, and the boxing was much sooner
finished than potting. I grew other plants, such
as French Beans, Potatoes and Peas, but with the
first-named used narrower boxes and one row of
plants.— G. W.

NOTES ON VINE CULTURE.

(i.\RDENERS are very busy at this time of the year
in the vineries, and it depends much upon the
treatment the Vines receive as to whether they
will produce handsome bunches and large berries
with good bloom upon them. All the houses re-
quire attention, and as I write these lines there is
a keen east wind blowing, but at mid-day the sun
has power enough to raise the temperature to a
high point. Air of course has to be admitted, but
it ought only to come in from the opening at the
top of the house ; it is better that the sidelights
should remain closed. In one of our houses the
(Irapes are being thinned, and at such a time the
berries may become rusty — as gardeners term tho
discoloration and contraction of the skin. " How is
it caused '! " I am asked. I believe by careless
handling of the berries, touching them with the
hair of the head when thinning, or opening the
front and top ventilators at the same time. This
is sometimes done to make it pleasant for the per-
son thinning during hot sunshine, but the cold
east wind at such a time will do its work of injury.
Thinning should if possible be done in the cool
hours of the morning, and the smallest opening at
the top of the house will admit sufficient air to
make the atmosphere and temperature agreeable.
In the second house the shoots ought now to be
tied out, and stopping the growths should be fre-
quently followed up. This is an important part of
the culture of the Vine in the early stages of its
growth. When growths are not wanted they
should be stopped when they are 1 inch or 2 inches
in length. All the stoppings from a good-sized
vinery may be compressed into two or three hand-
fuls if the work is done in good time. Some
growers allow the laterals to run into shoots a
yard or more in length before they are cut off.
This cannot fail to be injurious to the Vines, by
checking to a serious extent their growth.
Stopping should be persistently followed up until
the Vines have reached the flowering stage, when
it is best not to interfere with them until the
setting period is over. It does not matter much
as to the treatment of the Black Hamburgh or
other free-setting varieties, but the Muscats and
other shy-setting kinds may receive some sort
of check which might have an injurious effect upon
the setting of the blossoms. At setting time I
raise the temperature about 5° and keep up a
rather dry atmosphere — not excessively dry, for
the paths and borders are sprinkled daily. Thin-
ning the fruit should be commenced about ten
or twelve days after it has set. Muscats require
a little artificial aid, but if the weather is fine it is
sufficient to shake the rods daily. It can be done
by striking the wires with a hoe or a rod of some
kind, and the pollen will be seen like a cloud of

dust. If red spider appears, heat and sulphur the
pipes, but it must not be done too early, else the
effects of it, if strong enough to kill the spider,
will also injure the tender skins of the fruit and
cause rust. J. Douglas.

Flower Garden.

CHRISTMAS ROSES FAILING.

At page 77, Mr. J. Wood says in reference to
the above that he should " feel very grateful for
the views of those who have studied the subject,"
and somewhat earlier your correspondent refers
to the niger section of the genus Helleborus being
in some districts unmanageable. Mr. Wood
does not say where the difficulty comes in, or
whether the plants thrive for a while or the re-
verse, and then dwindle away ever after. So
far as my own experience goes in the cultivation
of these Christmas Roses, I believe one of the
most frequent sources of failure to be due to
planting and transplanting them at tho wrong
season. Mr. Wood has very correctly alluded
to the differences between these and the so-called
Lenten Roses. The latter may safely be planted
in most gardens in tho spring with the best re-
sults. The plants may be divided and replanted
in March or April, and given quite ordinary care
they grow and flourish freely. This fact is, I
believe due in the main to the continuous for-
mation and production of fibrous roots. And
here they differ materially, so far as my own
observation goes, from the Christmas Roses
proper. My own opinion of the proper time for
planting these latter is the month of September,
early or late according to the season.

I believe that in the niger section of Helle-
borus the main roots are sent forth annually
in late summer or early autumn, and only at
this time so far as our garden examples
are concerned. The object of planting at the
time stated then is obvious. I am well aware
that in some instances these Christmas Roses
are planted with success at other times than
those above named, but these are exceptions.
If anyone interested will lift a healthy plant
late in August, he will in all probability find
these new basal or main roots just ready to
emerge from the crown in immediate proximity
to the spot from whence the current season's
growth sprang. To save all such roots intact,
and particularly in those instances where one
set only is produced annually, is to my mind an
important matter to all who would covet a full
measure of success. In large specimens these
main roots descend into the earth from 2 feet to
3 feet where the soil is good and permits ; in-
deed I have traced them to even a greater depth
in very large plants. This at once shows the
necessity of a very deep bed. Twenty years ago
I had charge of a quantity of grand specimens
of the variety major nearly 3 feet across, and
when in flower the blooms from each specimen
could not have been closely placed in a bushel
basket. These plants were grown in cool, fairly
moist beds of prepared soil in a sheltered
garden, and benefited by distant shade. In the
early part of the year, probably when the
young foliage is being made, fibrous roots are
produced on the main fleshy roots. And in this
connection I have observed that these fibres are
more numerous on lifted plants than on those
not periodically disturbed. For example, those
plants lifted late last autumn and placed in
boxes or pots for flowering will produce greater
numbers of these root fibres this year than is
the case with plants not disturbed, but which
sent down their roots without any check what-

312

THE GARDEN

|May 4, 1895.

ever, and it is just this fact that carries the
lifted plants over till the ensuing autumn,
though by comparison it will be seen that the
crowns have suffered to no small extent, and are
generally undersized and weakened. This fact
I think clearly proves their dislike to frecpuent
disturbance.

Another fertile source of failure in these
plants is smoke and close proximity to large
manufacturing towns, especially where chemicals
are in strong force. In these districts the foli-
age is early ruined and roots are only sparsely
produced. It is a good sign when these Helle-
bores carry the bulk of their foliage through
the greater part of the winter, for there cannot
possibly be more positive proof of their perfect
health. Much exposure to sun in districts where
the soil is light, very sandy, or stony assists in
the same direction. In the neighbourhood of
Bath, and generally throughout Gloucestershire,
Christmas Roses do surprisingly well. The soil
generally is of a clayey nature, and in the latter
frequently overlying blue lias clay.

Shade in the culture of these plants, especially
in light soils, has an important bearing in respect
to retaining the foliage. Some years ago I
planttd a series of hedges of oval-leaved Privet
at about 8 feet apart to afford shelter for these
Christmas Roses. The plants were hemmed in
on all sides save an entrance 2 feet wide. The
soil was fairly good, though much lighter than
I could have wished. In all cases nearest the
base of the hedge, regardless of the direction it
faced, and notwithstanding the frequent exces-
sive dryness of the soil by reason of the mass
of roots from the hedgerow, the plants were
always the most vigorous, and always without
exception retained the foliage fresh through the
winter ; while the manner in which those
plants farthest removed from the shade lost
their leaves afforded additional proof of the
great value of shade of a given kind in the cul-
ture of these plants. And it was precisely the
same with Hepaticas under the same conditions,
thus showing they preferred a similar treat-
ment.

Never transplant these Christmas Roses
bodily in huge masses. The old roots apparently
have no power to take fresh hold on the soil,
no matter what the compost, and the result is
they very quickly decay and speedily rot the
whole plant if allowed to go on. The soil which
seems to satisfy these plants most is a good
depth of fairly sandy loam. E- Jenkins.

Hampton Hill.

A beautiful churchyard.— There are to be
found here and there, in out-of-the-way corners of
England, churchyards that possess a restfulness
of their own quite apart from the associations of
the headstones and "grassy barrows" of the
departed ; but there can exist few more ideal
gardens of sleep than the God's acre at Gulval,
lying within sound of the Cornish seas and in sight
of the grand outline of St. Michael's Mount, yet
far enough withdrawn from the ocean's verge to
be embowered in the verdure of sheltering Elms.
Dracaenas and Phormiums are growing within
the lych gate and a climbing Rose endeavours
graciously to hide, with budding sprays, the
Latin inscription on the sun-dial above the porch,
to the effect that " time is the devourer of all
things," which effort will soon be ably seconded
by a Solanum jasminoides that is breaking strongly
close by. Trees of the old Fuchsia Riccartoni show
their sprouting branches above Pittosporums,
Camellias (red and white), scarlet-berried Aucubas
and giant Hydrangea bushes ; while the Bamboo
and Cistus tribes are also well represented.
Flowering Cherry, Deutzia and Kerria are only less
conspicuous than the pendent wealth of the Orange
blossoms of Berberis Darwini. Here a cluster of

the fair white Poet's Narcissus nods above a grave ;
here the Forget-me-not has spread an azure pall ;
here a loving hand has planted a colony of Lilies
of the Valley, which will soon be bending white,
perfumed bells over the sod. Anemone fulgens,
a brilliant patch of scarlet, glows amidst the green,
and yellow Daffodils with purple Hyacinths add
their tones to the picture. The mistake of over-
scrupulous neatness is not made. The shears and
the foot-rule are, evidently, not for ever in re-
quest. Nature is allowed, within certain bounds,
to order her own goings. The spot is a beautiful
one now. On summer evenings, with the long
shadows of its Elm trees and the scent from the
great Rose bushes, blossoming profusely from

the attacks of the disease, even when growing side
by side with badly-affected bulbs.— S. W. F.

CHAM^EROPS EXCELSA IN DEVON-
SHIRE.

There are many gardens where this hardy Palnj
will grow well, its essential requirements being
an open, well-drained loamy soil and a position
sheltered from wind. A large number of fine
specimens may be met with in the south and
west of England, assuming that they have all
withstood the terrible winter. In this respect
it would be interesting to hear how they have
fared, for although it has
long been proved that they
could withstand ouraverage
winters, a few extra degrees
of cold often commit sad
havoc among exotic things
not absolutely hardy. The
two fine specimens at Heck-
field, for example, are in a
much more exposed situa-
tion than most of those we
have met with, one of
which, growing in a small
back garden in the town
of Midhurst and perfectly
sheltered, was luxuriant in
leaf and flower at the time
we saw it.

Mr. C. M. Mayor, who
kindly sent us the photo-
graph from which the il-
lustration was prepared,
writes as follows : —

The C. excelsa and Dra-
caena australis were two
very beautiful plants, but
the latter has since been
much spoiled by the snow
of winter 1893-94 being
allowed to remain in the
crowns. The cold does not
seem to affect it so much,
as if the tops are killed the
stems break freely all the
way up, but snow should
always be shaken out. Both
plants flowered freely. They
are planted on the top of
a sloping garden, aspect
S.E. C. excelsa and For-
tunei make splendid lawn
specimens. In this district
there are several fine plants
of both that have stood well,
even last winter, but nearly
all the Dracaenas are with-
out their tops.

Dracaena australis and Chamccrops excelsa in Mr. C. Mayor's garden
at Paignton, Devon. From a photograph by Miss Hunt, Souihfield,
Paignton, Devon.

every shoot, in the air, it will attain an even
greater measure of beauty and of rest.— S. W. F.

Basal-rot in Narcissi.— This disease seems
to be more prevalent among the native varieties
of Narcissi when grown in beds than when left to
themselves in woods or grass. I lately had the
opportunity of inspecting a large collection of
Narcissi in which a good many bulbs of N. obval-
laris were affected, but one bulb which had found
its way into a rough grass plot was growing as
strongly and healthily as could be desired. I have
seen more than one instance, in the south-
western counties, of varieties of Narcissi failing

Cases for Japanese

Lilies. — The kind of wood
from which the bulb cases
are made is Abies firma, and
the soil in which the bulbs
are cased and balled is common earth cut from the-
mountain sides under the surface soil, which is
of a black, porous nature. Water is then added,
and it is kneaded well with the naked feet until
it becomes tenacious. This is used for balling.
The casing material is the same earth, well
pounded and dried in the sun. — James Carter
& Co.

Double Violets.— At p. 26S " J. C. B."recom
mends the variety Queen Victoria as a substitute
for the old Neapolitan where this favourite does
not grow satisfactorily. I shall be pleased to try
_, t Queen Victoria, as the Neapolitan does not do so
when grown in prepared soil, and regaining their \ well in our district as it does in the south. Has
health when relegated to theorchaid. The heavy | "J. C. B." tried Lady Hume Campbell, a splendid
trumpet section, such as Emperor and Empress, j variety, and also a capital substitute for the
as far as my observation goes, seems able to resist | Neapolitan ? I have grown it for several years and

May 4, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

313

have found it most useful. It has a very hardy
constitution, and although of dense growth is not
at all liable to damping off in winter as are Marie
Louise and some others. The flowers, which are
produced in great quantities, are of a beautiful
pale blue shade. It has also an additional good
trait in its character, that of blooming later in the
spring than Marie Louise, no small advantage
where a supply of Violets is required as long as
possible. "J, C. B." speaks of the difficulty experi-
enced in keeping off red spider. It usually affects
my plants but little. This, I think, is mainly due
to the position the plants occupy, a deep root run,
mulching the surface of the bed, daily summer and
frequent evening syringings from the garden
engine, occasionally stirring a little flowers of
sulphur into the water. Formerly old Violet
growers gave their plants a north aspect, and
certainly many of them grew the old Neapolitan
well, as the more easily-cultivated sorts such as
Marie Louise were not then in existence. I think,
however, that a position where the sun shines on
the plant? for a few hours in the morning is best.
This strengthens without distressing them. Where
the plants are grown on a south or even a due west
border spider is always very troublesome, and the
growth, in my opinion, is not so satisfactory. Of
course in northern counties the case might be
different. — J. Crawford, Newark,

NOTES ON CROCUSES.

Surely there is no race of plants that will give
more pleasure than the genus Crocus. From the
early days in September to the middle of April
they may be had in flower, in less variety as the
days shorten, and increasing in wealth of colours
and kinds as the days become longer and brighter.
The first to flower is C. speciosus, a well known
kind, whose rich blue flowers with their distinct
orange-scarlet anthers emit a most delicate per-
fume. A very fine variety of this is C. speciosus
Aitchisoni, which was distributed by Herr Max
Leichtlin, of Baden-Baden, some years ago.
These two are closely followed by C. autumnalis,
dark purple-blue, C. sativus, medius, and a form
of sativus called Pallasi, which has pale lilac
flowers, and produces long, fine grassy foliage in
early winter. C. Boryi is a beautiful white-
flowered kind. C. nudiflorus has blue flowers,
and mention must be made of its pretty white-
flowered variety. I have also seen a form of
nudiflorus with flowers of a most unique shade of
flesh-pink. A charming kind is C. iridiflorus w ith
its var. major, colour rich blue. C. cancellatus
var. cilicicus is a rare form with large flowers of
a delicate lilac blue. These, I may say, close the
list of the autumn flowering kinds, but there is
no break in the season, for the winter varieties
begin when the others leave off. C. longiflorus,
lilac-blue, is the first, closely followed by C. hye-
malis, white, with intense black feathering on the
outside of the segments ; C. tingitanus, pale
lilac ; and C. Fleischeri, a creamy white with
dark feathering. C. vitellinus, which throws up
quite a bunch of rich golden flowers, is a true
midwinter species. C. chrysanthus and its form
fusco-tinctus are also yellow. C. Sieberi has
flowers of a distinct shade of blue and is ex-
tremely pretty ; it has a purple var. C. Obesi
has a large flower of intense whiteness, with
most distinct orange - scarlet anthers. Crocus
Imperati comes after the dark winter days.
Its quaint colouring of lilac-buff and almost black
feathering are very beautiful, and the flowers are
delicately sweet, but it is surpassed by a variety
called C. Imperati longiflorus, in which the flowers
are larger and the colouring much darker. A
lovely form is C. Imperati albus. C. Kotschyanus,
of a delicate shade of pale lilac, outside white ; C.
Aucheri, rich golden yellow; C. vallicola, a most
delicate flower, the colour scarcely definable; C.
M.tsiacus, C. aureus and its vars. , ochroleucus,
susianus, sulphureus, are all of various shades of
yellow. C. Weldeni has whitish flowers with a
delicate shading of blue on outside, also C. dal-
maticus violeBcens, though dalmaticus niveus is

pure white. C. biflorus and C. biflorus argenteus
bear masses of flowers of silvery whiteness with
dark feathering. C. aerius is a pretty little kind
with deep blue flowers which change to lilac.
C. earpetanus, C. Cartwrightianus albus, C. Dan-
fordid, C. neapolitanus, C. odorus melittensis, C.
peloponesiacus, C. Tourneforti, C. veluchensis, and
C. versicolor var. obscurus are scarcer kinds all
with a charm of their own. I need not mention the
usefulness of the ordinary Dutch kinds, forms of
C. vernus, as they are too well known to need
comment. All these beautiful and interesting
kinds of Crocus are of very easy culture, growing
well in any ordinary garden soil, but it is well
when planting to surround the bulbs with some
fine sand. They are specially adapted for little
warm nooks, narrow sunny borders, or just inside
the edges of herbaceous borders. It is not neces-
sary to lift them every year ; they may be left for
three or more seasons until the clumps become
too crowded, but care must be taken, as mice are
extremely partial to them. Some of the more
plentiful kinds, such as speciosus, Imperati, bi-
florus and versicolor, are excellent for naturalising
in grass. G.

Societies and Exhibitions.

AURICULA SHOW.
April 23.
The Auricula growers had their annual field
day at the Drill Hall on April 23, and their ex-
hibits, which were much more numerous than
many expected, having regard to the lateness of
the season, materially added to what was a very
attractive exhibition of plants and flowers. De-
spite the severity and prolonged character of the
winter, it was one of the largest and best exhibi-
tions of Auriculas yet held by the Society. Every -
bod}' admires what we may term the Jewelled Auri-
cula—the beautiful and fascinating green, grey,
and white edges and the striking selfs, but they
can be grown to perfection only by a few. Choice
as it is, the show Auricula is a hardy plant— there
is probably not a collection in the country but
what was frozen hard for many days during the
severe weather in the early part of the year, and
yet, as soon as the change came, the plants leapt
into life and came on at a rapid pace. A little
warmth was, no doubt, applied in a few cases to
have the plants ready by a certain date, but there
was no evidence of their having been drawn ;
they were in many cases examples of careful
culture. The largest class is for fifty Auriculas,
but it is high time it was got rid of It was
instituted in the early days of the Society in
order to assist the show when exhibitors were few,
but now that they are many the necessity for the
class no longer exists, and it may be said to in-
clude all those flowers which are not good enough
to go into the other classes. Mr. James Douglas,
gardener to Mrs. Whitbourn, GreatGearies, Ilford,
was, as usual, placed first, most prominent being
three or four yellow selfs, one particularly fine,
and Rolfs green edge, which has a red instead of
a black body colour, while edged and self flowers
were abundant. Mr. A. J. Sanders, gardener to
Viscountess Chewton, Brockham, was second, and
the Guildford Hardy Plant Company was third,
in this collection being a plant of the Rev. F. D.
Horner's yellow self Buttercup. Two other
collections of fifty were unplaced. The blue
riband of the Auricula Show is the first prize for
twelve varieties, Mr. T. E. Hen wood, of Reading,
winning it easily. We give the names of the
varieties because they represent a choice selection.
They were : Green edges, l'rince of Greens, the
Rev. F. D. Horner, Abbe Liezt, and James Han-
naford, and of these the Rev. F. D. Horner is
decidedly the best, but it would be much better
if it opened its pips a little flatter, and so did
not cup so much. Abbe Liszt is not a true
green, as there is a beading of meal round the
edges of the segments; but it appears to be a good
grower. James Hannaford was coarse and the
body colour confused. Of grey edges there were

Lancashire Hero, almost a green edge, Richard
Headley, very fine for so eaily in the season, and
George Rudd ; of white edges, Acme, undoubtedly
the very best when in good condition, and John
Simonite; of selfs, Mrs. Potts, the best blue, Black
Bess, the darkest, and Heroine. Mr. A. J.
Sanders, who is taking a leading position as a
successful exhibitor, was second, and Mr. Patter-
son, who came all the way from Sunderland, third.
Mr. Sanders had the best six, having the grey edged
George Lightbody as distinct from the before-
mentioned, Mr. flenwood taking second placa,
and Mr. Patterson third. There were several
collections of four varieties, and Mr. Sargent,
Cobham, who was first, had Rachel, a pleasing
grey edge. Mr. W. Smith, Bishop3 Stortford,
who had Mr. Dodwell, a white edge, very chaste
when in good character, was second. Mr. Sargent
had the best two out of nine pairs. Abbe Lizst
was selected as the best green edge, George
Lightbody as the best grey, Marmion as the best
white edge, and Cherub, a dark flower raised by
Mr. Douglas, as the best self.

The alpine varieties were numerous, brilliant,
and striking ; but seeing what a number of
new varieties is constantly being raised, is
any real progress being made? The nctch
still disfigures the segments of some ; the pistil
still protrudes above the anthers, making the
flower " pin-eyed," a sad defect in the estimation
of the northern florists ; and quality appears to be
in danger of being sacrificed to mere size. Mr.
Charles Phillips, formerly of Reading, and now of
Bracknell, Berks, was first with seedlings of his
own raising, a very fine strain indeed, remarkable
for high quality ; Mr. Douglas was second. With
six varieties Mr. J. Douglas was first ; Mr. Phillips
taking the second place; and Mr. C. Turner thiid,
though some thought tho first and third posi-
tions should have been reversed. Little Gem,
Mrs. Gorton, Dragon Fly, Mrs. Martin Smith,
Dot, Sophie, Dean Hole, Winifred and Chas-
tity were some of the best alpines. There was
a class for four varieties also, Mr. W. L. Walker,
of Reading, being first ; and classes also for one
plant — golden centred and white or cream centred.
Some of the varieties staged in tho latter class
were clearly inadmissible, being yellow rather
than creamy or white.

The gold-laced Polyanthuses were mainly seed-
lings of indifferent character, but as the named
varieties went down before the frost, growers
were sadly put about for material. There is
ample loom for improvement in this refined type,
if someone would set about it. Two or three
old varieties, such as William IV., Napoleon, and
Formosa, were exhibited, but they were decidedly
poor and are rarely very good.

Brilliant patches of colour were afforded by
the fancy Polyanthuses and Primroses, though
the Drill Hall is by no means a fitting place on a
dull day in which to show them oft' to the best
advantage. Mr. Richard Dean, Ranelagh Road,
Ealing, was first with twelve large pots of fancy
Polyanthuses, some very brilliant in colour and
of fine quality, a golden hosein-hose form being
particularly attractive. Mr. A. J. Sanders was
second, and Mr. J. Douglas third. With twelve
pots of Primroses Mr. R. Dean was again first,
brilliant colouring and fine flowers making a rare
display. Mr. J. Douglas came in second, and Mr.
A. J. Sanders third. There was no entry in tho
class for six double Primroses, but in the class
for a basket of single Primroses, Mr. J. Douglas
was first, though there was scarcely a true Prim-
rose among them, and Mr. R. Dean second.

Fancy Auriculas may be described as embracing
anything that does not find a place in the ortho-
dox classes. Among seedlings of the show kinds
there are many curious flowers, mainly yellow ;
laced and double varieties are also included. Mr.
Douglas was first, the Hardy Plant Nursery
Company, Guildford, second, and Mr. R. Dean
third.

Species of Primulas were very fine on the whole,
Mr. J. Douglas being the only exhibitor of twelve
pots or pans. He had fine examples of obconica,
japonica, verticillata, floribunda, Auricula, denti-

314

THE GARDEN

[May 1, 1895.

culata, intermedia, Forbesi, mollis, decora, rosea,
and a somewhat poorly bloomed specimen of
laciniata, one of the forms of P. Sieboldi. Mr.
Douglas was the only exhibitor of a group of
species and varieties, these being charmingly
arranged in the form of a piece of natural rockery ;
the subjects repetitions of those mentioned above
interspersed with various types of Auriculas, Prim-
roses, &c.

The Premier Show Auricula was a good example
of George Lightbody. It was shown by Mr.
Collins, gardener to Mrs. Kyrke-Penson, Dinham
Castle, Ludlow.

Several new show Auriculas were staged. A
special prize of one guinea offered by Mr. W.
Smith, of Bishop's Stortford, for the best seedling
show Auricula, an improvement on existing varie
ties, was awarded to a dark self named Favourite
shown by the Rev. F. D. Horner, the pip large,
smooth, and beautifully formed. Mr. J. J. Keen's
special prize of one guinea for four seedling
Auriculas, one of each class, was awarded to Mr.
J. Douglas, who had Peri, white edge, an unnamed
grey and white edge, and a dark s;lf.

Prizes were awarded to two seedling self
Auriculas, viz., Favourite (Horner) and Mr. Bar-
nett, also a dark variety, shown by Mr. C. Phillips ;
it is something in the way of Heroine. Some
finely flowered plants of the old double crimson
Primrose were shown by Mr. J. Douglas. A group
of fancy Polyanthuses and Primroses was also
staged by Mr. R. Dean.

ROYAL BOTANIC.
April 24.
The exhibits at the second spring show of the
Royal Botanic Society on Wednesday were
decidedly more numerous, entirely filling the
long corridor, and many were placed in the con-
servatory. There was not much competition for
the prizes, but miscellaneous exhibits were of a
most interesting character. Messrs. Paul and Son,
of Lheshunt, were first for a collection of Roses in
pots, the finest specimens being Celine Forestier,
Mme Hoste, Mrs. John Laing, Caroline d'Arden,
Beauty of Waltham, Margaret Dickson, and
Mag^ ^harta> a11 carrying many fine flowers.
Mr. W Rumsey, of Waltham Cross, was second
Ihe only exhibit in the class for a collection of
hardy plants was that from Mr. T. S Ware a
good lot, well meriting the first prize. The best
things were Dielytra specibilis, red and white
Doromcums, Aaonis vernalis, Ranunculus amplexi-
caulis, a pretty white-flowered Buttercup, Geum
montanum dwarf, a perfect mass of yellow flowers
Anemone fulgens, A. Robinsoniana, A. Pulsatilla
Orchis fusea and a very fine pot of the American
Dog smooth \iolet (Erythronium americanum).
Air. Douglas sent the only collection of hardy
1 rimulas and received first prize, but there were
several decidedly greenhouse species in the ex-
hibit, as for example, P. verticillata and P. flori-
Dunda, the former-named in good free-flowerins
specimens. P. Forbesi attracted much notice,
and other good kinds were P. mollis, P. auricu-
lata, P. rosea, P. japonica. The best group of
Auriculas also came from Mr. Douglas the
plants carrying large trusses of flowers, Mr.
l urner, of Slough, being second. For greenhouse
Azaleas Mr W. Barrell, gardener to Mrs. Thorn-
ton, Ihe Hoo, Sydenham Hill, was first with a
nne lot showing large, informal bush specimens
covered with bloom. The best were Roi d'Hol-
lande, deep red; Dr. Livingstone and Model, both
deep rose ; and Magnifica, white. Messrs. Paul
and Son were awarded first for a group of
Amaryllises, but the second prize lot from Mr
Douglas, though less in numbers, was better
as regards purity of colour. Mr. Douglas was
tfie only exhibitor of Cinerarias, and received first
prize tor a charming group of dwarf freely-flowered
plants. A nice lot of Pelargoniums from Mr. C
1 urner, of Slough, secured first prize, about
twenty-five plants being shown, all well flowered
Ihe best were Purity, a lovely white kind,
without any marking; Rosy Morn, deep self-

rose; Magpie, white, with conspicuous blotches;
Edward Perkins, bright crimson ; and Mystery.
Begonias from Mr. T. S. Ware were good for so
early in the season, the group being relieved by
a few Palms and Grasses. The double-flowered
kinds predominated, Brilliant, bright red, and
Picotee being good. Among single-flowered va-
rieties, Murillo, dark crimson ; Btxley White ;
Perfection, orange-red ; and Regina, white, edged
with pink, were the best. Mr. K. Scott, gardener
to Miss Foster, The Holme, Regent's Park, was first
for a group of Imantophyllums, with large, free-
flowering specimens ; also first for Spir.-ea japo-
nica, showing twelve large plants, well grown
and freely flowered.

Among miscellaneous exhibits was a large
group from Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Clapton,
consisting of Orchids, chiefly Cymbidiums in fine
specimens and Cattleyas, Cannas in variety, and
many beautiful New Holland plants now not
often seen, as Correa cardinalis, Chorozema Lowi,
Eriostemons, Boronias, Genista elegans, Acacias,
Ericas, and Epacrises. A silver medal was de-
servedly awarded. Messrs. J. Laing and Sons, of
Forest Hill, arranged a beautiful group of flower-
ing and fine-leaved plants, consisting of Palms,
Dracaenas, Ferns, and Caladiums, with Orchids,
Begonias, and Clivias. A silver medal was
awarded. A smaller group from Messrs. J. Peed
and Sons of similar plants, with well-flowered
examples of Genista Andreana, was awarded a
bronze medal. Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons sent
an interesting group, containing blue Primroses
in variety, Glonera jasminoides, a well-flowered
plant, Epiphyllums, Rhododendron Forsterianum,
Dendrobium Aspasia, Cypripedium Creon, and
L.tlio-Cattleya Epicasta. Cut Roses were largely
shown, Mr. Frank Cant, of Colchester, having
many varieties of Teas and H.P.'s, the flowers
large and good in colour. Especially fine were
Ethel Brownlow, Mme. Cusin, C. Mermet, Ernest
Metz, Cleopatra, and Marechal Niel among Teas,
and Mrs. J. Laing, Ulrich Brunner, Duke of
Edinburgh, and Mme. G. Luizet among the
H.P.'s. A silver medal was awarded. Similar
awards were given to Mr. G. Mount, Canterbury,
for Roses Marechal Niel, Niphetos, and Catherine
Mermet in quantity ; to Mr. Walker, Thame,
Oxon, for Roses Marechal Niel and Niphetos,
and to Mr. W. Rumsey for Niphetos and other
varieties. A small group of Roses in pots and
Azaleas came from Mr. Perry, gardener to Mr.
J. C. Tasker, Middleton Hall, Brentwood. Messrs.
Barr contributed a large group of cut Daffodils
with Anemone fulgens and Muscari. The best
kinds are referred to in our report of the R.H.S.
meeting. A bronze medal was awarded. A
similar award was given to Mr. Ware for a large
group of Daffodils, Spanish Irises, Gladiolus The
Bride, Ranunculi and Freesias. An interesting
group came from Messrs. Williams, of Holloway,
including Amaryllis in tine variety, Leschenaultia
biloba major, Cypripedium Schrcederse, and C.
Rothschildianum very fine, Dendrobium Ward-
ianum giganteum, a good form with broad petals.
A silver medal was awarded. Messrs. Paul and
Son sent a collection of Cannas, and eight fine
specimen plants of Mignonette were sent by Mr.
W. Barrell. Mr. W. Meads, gardener to Mr.
Henderson, Buscot Park, Faringdon, received an
award of merit for Melon Countess, the fruits very
good for so early in the season.

A full prize list will be found in our advertise-
ment columns.

The Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund.— The

usual monthly meeting of the committee took
place at the Horticultural Club on the 20th ult. ,
Mr. William Marshall in the chair. A special
donation of three guineas was announced from
Mr. J. Kipling, The Gardens, Knebworth,
Stevenage, received as fees for skating on the
lake during the winter. Mr. N. Sherwood has
generously agreed to place a child seven years of
age^upon tne fund, to be known as " The Emma
Sherwood Presentation." In sending him a
special vote of thanks, the secretary was in-
structed to request Mr. Sherwood to nominate a

child. Mr. Harrison, of Leicester, who took the
chair at the annual meeting of the subscribers
to the fund, was nominated a vice-president, and
a special vote of thanks to him was passed. The
secretary laid upon the table the accounts of the
annual dinner, and it was stated that a very
satisfactory financial result had accrued. Special
votes of thanks were passed to Mr. H. J. Veitch
for presiding at the annual dinner and to the
donors of plants and flowers. Mr. Barron reported
that what remained of the fruit and flowers at the
close of the dinner was sent to the Hospital for
Sick Children in ( ireat Ormond Street, and a letter
was read from the lady superintendent gratefully
acknowledging the same.

DAFFODIL SHOW AT BIRMINGHAM.
Atril 24 and 25.
The Narcissus show at the Birmingham Botanic
Gardens on April 24 and 25 far surpassed the
two annual exhibitions previously held there
both in extent and variety as well as in the extra
fine quality of the flowers shown. The large col-
lections from Messrs. Barr and Son, Messrs.
Jas. Veitch and Sons, Mr. T. S. Ware, and
Mr. Sydenham were in perfect condition and
much admired, silver medals being in each case
awarded to them. Messrs. Pearson and Sons, of
Chilwell, Notts, and Rev. S. E. Bourne, of
Lincoln, also had very extensive groups of flowers
exquisitely fresh and highly coloured. New seed-
lings were shown by Rev. G. H. Engleheart,
Messrs. De Graaf, of Leyden, and Messrs. Jas
Veitch and Sons, and the first named exhibitor
and raiser staged the finest new seedling in the
show, a bold and shapely Ajax named Ellen
Willmott, having creamy white perianth and a
broadly expanded yellow crown. It is in the way
of Weardale Perfection, but larger, with a deeper
tinted chalice or corona. Mr. Engleheart also
had a seedling in the way of Lulworth, but having
a more expanded cup of not quite so vivid an
orange red colour. The pure white hybrid be-
tween N. triandrus and Ajax albicans was also
exhibited, and, like the last, gained a certificate
of merit. It is a dainty thing, not inaptly de-
scribed as a white form of N. Johnstoni. The
show was well organised and tastefully arranged,
but, unfortunately, rain fell on both days, thus
preventing many visitors from enjoying perhaps
the finest Daffodil show seen since the first Nar*
cissus conference in 18S4. Messrs. De Graaf
showed a number of seedlings, including F. W.
Moore, a noble yellow Ajax in the way of Gory
of Leyden. They also showed fine blooms of
Mme. Plemp and of a dainty white Ajax named
Cecilia, having a green stripe at the back of each
of its perianth segments. Some of the visitors to
this show were much interested in the new rock
or alpine garden now in course of formation in
the Birmingham Botanic Gardens by Messrs.
Backhouse and Sons, of York. It is a bold com-
bination of rocky peaks and plateaux above a rock
pool having boggy margins. A new annexe,
terminated by a stage for the orchestra, has als;>
been made to the exhibition corridor. Altogether
there are signs of well-directed progress and
energy in the management of the gardens and
exhibitions. F. W. B.

Effects of the winter at Perzmce —The
effects of the past severe winter, and especially of
the biting wind experienced in exposed situations,
are particularly noticeable on the sea-front at
Penzance. Nearly all the lodging houses had
their strips of front garden separated f i om each
other by hedges of Yeronica ; these are now abso-
lutely killed. In one or two cases where Euony-
mus took the place of Veronica the shrub? are so
damaged that they will have to be cut back almost
to the ground level. In the public gardens the
large Aloes have been badly damaged, and the
Bamboos injured by the wind. Inland, among
the Elm trees appearances are not so pitiful, but
not a tithe of the Wallflower plantations that were

May 4, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

315

to be found on all sides at this time last year are
to be seen now. In a sheltered spot in the neigh-
bourhood I saw the other day a splendid specimen
of Pyrus japonica in full flower. The branches
covered the whole front of a cottage, and the
vivid scarlet of the blossoms against the grey
Cornish granite with a setting of blue sky over-
head formed a picture not soon to be forgotten. —
S. VV. F., Penzance.

EPPING FOREST.

As one of the so-called "experts" who, at
the request of the Epping Forest committee,
studied on the spot the question at issue about
Epping Forest, kindly let me urge through the
Times that the report itself should be considered.
The trouble arose from the Epping committee
having the very common, but erroneous idea
that Oak and other forest trees are best isolated
— i.e., what they call specimens — and not having
the faintest idea of the natural character of a
forest, in which the trees are generally tall and
massed, the effect being quite different from that
of trees in open parks and pleasure grounds.
With all his good-will for the Forest and sense
of its natural beauty, it was difficult to get even
Mr. Buxton to see this, and yet it is evident in
all true forest and even in the beautiful Oak
woodlands of Sussex. Kindly let me quote the
essential parts of the report as regards thinning
— and the whole question of Epping Forest arose
over the thinning of closely massed trees : —

Pollard Hornbeams. — A vast proportion of
the area of the Forest is covered by pollard
Hornbeams. In parts they are an interesting
feature, but the practice of pollarding having
been discontinued, the trees are now so dense
that neither light nor air can penetrate. We
consider that, with a view to encouraging the
growth of better trees and varying the mono-
tony of the Forest, the best course will be, not
generally to thin the trees, but to make bold
clearances among them. 1 he finer pollard
Oaks throughout the Forest should be carefully
preserved.

Underwood. — Although in many places
this forms one of the beauties of the Forest, we
do not think that in all parts sacrifices should
be made for the purpose of encouraging it
where the trees do not allow of its healthy
growth, as under Beeches. The effect of closely-
massed forest trees constitutes a beauty in it-
self. In approaching the question of thinning,
we think we can best point out our views by
taking as examples a few typical parts of the
Forest, as it is impossible to lay down any
general principle for dealing with so vast and
various an area.

Hawk Wood is, in the main, an Oak wood,
and the trees are not such as would be im-
proved by wholesale thinning. It would be,
in our opinion, wise to take out no trees, ex-
cept such as are obviously dying, and a few
scrubby stunted trees which are injuring the
others. Where, here and there, a single speci-
men of more than usual beauty can be en-
couraged into noble growth, it should be pro-
tected from overcrowding. But we attach
great importance to preserving the massive
character of the Forest, especially in this wood.
Monk Wood. — This consists of fine old pol-
larded Beeches, and, in our judgment, it needs
no further thinning for many years to come.

High Beech. — The trees here are of con-
siderable age and beauty, and we do not think
that they should be interfered with.

Walthamstow Wood. — The beautiful under-
growth of Holly is here a distinctive feature.
There are a few dead and dying trees which

should be removed, and here and there some
pollards, which threaten to injure the Hollies.
The healthy Oaks, even where crowded, should
be left standing. The beauty of tall Oak stems,
often Lichen-covered when growing in close
woods, should be considered.

Theydon High Wood. — Here are Beech
trees of moderate age which have not been pol-
larded, forming a dense canopy of leafage, and
constituting a distinct feature. We recommend
moderate and periodic thinning.

Lord's Bushes.— At this point there is a
struggle between healthy young trees (Oaks
and Beeches) and a number of old pollards,
some of which are dying. Having regard to
the preponderance of pollards in the Forest,
we should, as a rule, let the young trees take
the lead, preserving the finer and more pic-
turesque pollards.

These directions, which can be so easily
followed, as regards the future of the Forest
might well be left to the very competent super-
intendent of the Forest to carry out, and any
bringing in of outsiders or strangers to mark
the trees is perfectly needless in the face of
such simple directions, consisting for the most
part in letting the beautiful Forest retain its
natural varied and picturesque character.

Sylva.

Notes of the Week.

Tulipa saxatilis. — Among many Tulips,
species and varieties, flowering in Messrs. Barr's
nursery at Long Ditton, this one is most attractive
by reason of its singular and pretty colour. The
flower is of a clear, pale mauve or lilac colour with
a rich yellow base internally.

Magnolia stellata (M. Halleana) is very beau-
tiful just now in the Royal Gardens, Kew, where
we noticed a small bed of it on the grass. Such a
position as this suits this Magnolia. Every shoot
is covered with white flowers with rather narrow
segments and strongly fragrant.

The Lady Tulip (Tulipa Clusiana).— Several
clumps of this on a sunny border at Kew were
worth a note the other day. This species likes a
warm spot and light soil. The flowers are slender
and graceful, white, with a flush of dull carmine
on the surface of the outer segments.

Cattleya Sehrcederee. — I have sent you to-day
two blooms of Cattleya Schrcedene. I think you
will agree with me that it is a very good variety ;
it opened perfectly white (five weeks since), but
since a slight trace of lavender is perceptible. —
T. R. Cuckney.

%• A remarkably fine form. — Ed.

A group of the Snake's head (Fritillaria
Meleagris) is in full bloom at Kew. The leaves
and bold flowers form quite a spring picture, the
flowers varying in colour, but the almost white
form is the most pleasing. It stands out better
than the curiously chequered purple coloured
kinds.

Daffodils at Kew.— These are now in full
beauty in the Royal Gardens, Kew. There are
several large beds of the leading kinds, bold
masses of the several forms being kept distinct.
None, however, are so fine as Emperor, the
flowers being remarkably large and the leaves
very robust.

Rhododendron Jacksoni. — This early flower-
ing hybrid kind merits notice not only for its
earliness, but also for its bright effect and free-
dom of flowering even upon small plants. The
buds are rich crimson, but expand into flowers of a
light rosy pink colour with spots of a darker hue
and a distinct band of deep rose down the centre
of each petal.

Strawberry Royal Sovereign. — Another
season has again proved the excellence of this

variety for forcing and its splendid travelling
qualities, and though last year was not a very
favourable one for pot plants forming good crowns,
the plants of Royal Sovereign have this spring
borne large clusters of firm and good fruit.—
W. G. C.

Wood Lily and Windflower.— One of the
most charming flower pictures in the garden this
week is Trillium grandiflorum and Anemone
Robinsoniana, both in bold groups clustering
together and hiding the ground with a dense
carpet of pretty leaves and lovely flowers. The
Trillium is quite happy in a bed partially shaded
by Azaleas and growing in a stiff, moist loam.

Tulipa orphanidea.— This is another distinct
and beautiful Tulip, of which Mr. Barr has a good
group in flower at Long Ditton. It is free bloom-
ing, the flower of a bronzy yellow colour mottled
with brown, and with a conspicuous zone of brown
at the base of tfre flower, which is about as large
as that of T. sylvestris, but with broader pointed
petals.

Erythronium Hartwegi is an uncommon,
but pretty Dog's-tooth Violet not very easily
managed. It has a very long flowering season,
strong bulbs sending up several blooms in wel
come succession. They are of a pale yellow
colour, with a zone of a richer and brighter yellow
at the base, the leaves beautifully mottled with
dark purple on a light green ground.

Camellias in the open air at Windsor.—
Mr. F. T. Barry sends us from his garden at St.
Leonards Hill, Windsor, a box of Camellia blooms
cut from plants that have been growing in their
present position for the past seven years. The
plants have had no protection whatever. The
flowers are large, richly coloured, the foliage also
being very healthy and bright.

The Chi-ese Plum (Prunus triloba) is now a
mass of bloom on a sunny wall at Kew. Why is
not such a lovely thing as this more often seen 1
The branches are covered with double rosette-
shaped flowers of delicate rose, varying in colour
somewhat, but only more charming for this variety
of shade. A coloured plate was given of it in
The Garden, October 3, 1885.

Primula rosea and Marsh Marigolds.— A
mass of this Himalayan Primrose and the double
forms of Caltha palustris is very beautiful at Kew.
Both delight in a wet, boggy soil. The Primulas
are a mass of bloom, and one notices when so
many are grouped together the difference there is
in the shade, as well as size of the individual
flowers, some being deeper in colour and larger
than others.

Fritillaria pallidiflora.— This tall and hand-
some species is flowering well at Long Ditton. It
is distinct and striking both in leaf and flower.
It grows to a height of about 18 inches, the strong
stem freely clothed with large glaucous leaves its
entire length and terminated by two fine flowers
nearly as large as those of the Crown Imperial,
and of a pale self yellow colour with a few slight
markings inside.

Menziesia empetrif jrmis. — Following in
close succession to Erica carnea comes this pretty
plant. It is allied to the Heaths, and valuable for
the rock garden or when grouped near the edges of
beds and borders. It has come unharmed through
the past winter, and its tufts are now quite hidden
by the rich profusion of its flowers, which are
large individually, borne in thick clusters, and of
a bright rosy-red colour.

Anemone blanda. — This shows a much
greater tendency to vary in colour than its deeper
tinted relative from the Apennines. Two lovely
forms that Mr. Barr now has in flower at Long
Ditton are A. blanda taurica, which has large
flowers in pale blue shades of varying depth, and
A. blanda scynthica, by some called Anemone
blanda bicolor, the flowers of which are blue on
the outside, the inside being pure white.

Primroses from Winchmore Hill.— Mr.
Perry sends us from his nursery at Winchmore
Hill, N., some fine flowers of the double crimson

313

THE GARDEN

[May 4, 189 \

Primrose, which we should like to see more often
in gardens. He alao sends us the old blue Poly-
anthus, the colour of which is very poor and in-
effective. We lately saw some fine masses of the
old double white Primrose growing and flowering
freely along with Trillium and Anemone Robin-
eoniana.

The double Jew's Mallow. — Whilst traces
of the past winter are all too apparent in most
gardens, one turns with pleasure to those things
that burst into bloom as though no unusual
cold had been experienced. Among such the
double Jew's Mallow is bright and welcome, esps-
cially as at Dropmore, where it makes a fine pic-
ture at the present time on a wall and allowed
to grow in its own way instead of being needlessly
restricted and thinly trained.

Tulipa Greigi.— The effect of this fine Tulip
is gorgeous, and doubtless it will be grown by
many when it becomes plentiful and cheap. It is
in fine form this week. A dwarf and sturdy kind,
its flowers are of great size compared with its
ttature, and stand up boldly on very strong
stems. The flowers are usually of a brilliant scarlet
colour, but vary in a welcome way, some being
orange-red in colour. Its leaves are pretty, too,
having numbers of dark brown marks upon them.

Garden walks. — The present time is a good
one for cutting Box edgings and for rectifying
blanks where such have occurred. Where ex
hausted, the old stock should be replaced by young
healthy plants, planting carefully and finning
well ; this last point is of great importance in this
work, as Box does not take well to a loose root-
run, especially if a dry time follows the planting.
Some weed elestroyer should now 1)3 applied to
kitchen garden walks and the roller run uver after
the first rain. — J. C.

Fritillaries in the Grass. — Tin se are never
seen to better advantage than when growing in
the Grass, and a large group planted under such
conditions is quite one of the features of the pre-
sent week. The flowers embrace many inter
mediate shades of colour, from that of the dark-
hued typical form to pure white. In man}' cases
three large flowers are borne on each stem. Those
referred to belong to what the Dutch growers call
the grandidora strain, and merit that distinction,
as the flowers are altogether finer than those of
the common wild type.

IlafFod 1 Queen cf Spain in the Grass. —
This graceful and distinct new Daffodil being
happily obtainable in quantity, we have already
been able to try it in the Grass, and now in its
second season it gives every indication of future
success, and promisas to be one of the best for
growing in this way. It is a great acepjisition,
being so unlike any other kind at present grown,
therefore readily distinguished and easily remem-
bered. Its clear yellow colour comes out well in
a setting of rich green Grass, and the flowers gain
in size as the bulbs become established.

Ccelogyne Dayana.— I am sending you an
inflorescence of Ccelogyne Dayana for your in-
spection. It carries thirty-nine flowers and mea-
sures 3 feet .3 inches in length. I would be glad
to know whether it is usual for this lovely Orchid
to produce such long racemes. The plant from
which this was taken has two other racemes, one
measuring 38 inches, with forty flowers ; the third
is not yet developed, but promises to be equal to,
if not longer than either of those mentioned above.
The plant is in vigorous health, the bulbs being
very stout.— J. Ellicott, Summerville Gardens,
Limerick.

Trillium?. — Several pretty species are now
flowering in Mr. Barr's nursery at Long Ditton.
T. grandiflorum, with its large pure white
flowers, is the finest of them all. T. atro-pur-
pureum is pretty, with its distinct reddish brown
flowers. Both cf these have plain green leaves,
but two others have their leaves beautifully
mottled with dark brown, namely, T. sessile
californicum, which has a large flower with long
white petals, stained with purple at the base, and
T. recurvatum with flowers of a dark red-brown

colour. T. erectum is a lovely kind with large
leaves and a white flower. It rather belies its
name by a decided drooping habit.

Six fraga luteo-vindis (Schott. and Kot.). —
This, the true variety of S. luteo-viridis, is now
blooming at Exeter (Veitch's nursery), and is a
very attractive plant. It must not be confounded
with that early-flowering primrose- coloured va-
riety often called S. luteo-viridis, oVas S. luteo
purpurea, alias S. Frederici Augusti, which, ac-
cording to Mr. Wolley-D. d, is altogether wronely
named, and should be called S. apiculata, which
name was given to it by Professor Engler. The
true S. luteo-viridis (Schott. anel Kot ) is so dis-
tinct that there is no possibility of mistaking it
for the other variety. When not in bloom the
plant resembles Saxifraga calyciflora, its rosettes
of encrusted pointed leaves being arranged very
similarly. The flower stem, produced from the
centre of the rosette, is 3 inches long, erect,
and bears at the top a cluster of cup-shaped
flowers. The corolla, of a deep golden yellow, is sur-
rounded by a hirsute calyx of a pale yellowish
green. The contrast between the colours of the
calyx and the corolla is most distinct, and the
appellation "luteo-viridis" seems most appro-
priate.— F. W. Meyer.

Notes from Almondsbury. — My experience
with Iris stylosa this winter is a sad one. Large
clumps under a west wall are quite dead. Here
and there a few new shoots are appearing. These
clumps have been here seven years, and I have
never even known them to be injured before.
Iris Milesi, supposed by many to be tender, under
the same wall is quite unhurt and premises the
same vigorous growth and bloom as last year.
Eremurus robustus is very strong and good, yet I
once lost this in a March snow and fro^t. A bed
quite unprotected full of two-year-old seedlings
of Gladiolus Nanceianus promises well. I have
grown these Gladioli or some four years, and find
them vigorous and satisfactory beyond all others.
It seems as if all Irises of Asiatic origin like Iris
Mile-i were far better suited to our climate than
the African Irises like stylcsa. Nothing is more
useful here than the Polyanthus Primrose. My
original lot of twenty or so came to me from
Mis3 Jekyll, and I have now hundreds of plants
irr all stages by saving seed from one specially fine
plant. I hope to improve even on what I now
have. These look most lovely in the Grass at the
foot of Plum trees. A very pretty combination
of colour just now is an irregular line of alpine
Auriculas, some tall apple- pink Lent Roses
(Hellebores) and at their feet quantities of
Anemone Robinsoniana. Judging by my Daffo-
dils, slugs are not at all sufferers from the cold.
Sir Watkin has with me been unusually fine, but
the other sorts poorer than usual. — C. 0. Miles.

Fubl'C Garden*.

Gift of a park to Liverpool. — At a meeting
of the Liverpool city council a letter was read
from the local eolicitor, stating that he had been
instructed to offer to the city a plot of land cover-
ing 108 acres, which had been laid out as a re-
creation ground. He was not at liberty to men-
tion the name of the donor. There were some
buildings on the land, the rents from which would
nearly pay for the maintenance, leaving only a
small charge on the city. It was decided to
accept the gift.

The Bute House estate. — A meeting of
the inhabitants of Petersham, the vicar, the
Rev. W. H. Oxley, presiding, was held last
week to consider the proposed conversion
by Sir J. Whittaker Ellis of the Bute House
grounds into a building estate. The following
resolution was adopted: "That in the opinion
of this meeting of the inhabitants of Petersham
it is desirable that a most determined effort should
be made to induce the Crown authorities to follow
the precedent of 1883— viz., to purchase the Bute
House estate, Petersham, for the use of the people,

and to add it to Petersham Park, and thus ] re-
serve for ever to the public as an open spice the
beautiful grounds which now form so prominc Wi
a feature in the foreground view from the pi et
Thompson's walk." A deputation representing
the inhabitants of Petersham was appointed to
wait on the Crown authorities, and it was also re-
solved to ask the assistance of lha Corporation of
Richmond.

Open spaces.— At the monthly meeting of
the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association,
83, Lancaster Gate, W., it was agreed to open to
the public towards the end of May the disused
burial-grounds cf St. Peter's, Walworth, and St.
Mary's. Woolwich, lately laid out by the associa-
tion. It was announced that seats had bi en
placed on the Main Drainage Emlankment, E ,
and by the river at Chiswick, W. It was decided
to grant additional seats for Hackney Churchyard,
and to offer some for Hammersmith Churchyard,
St. Peter's Churchyard, Cornhill, and a garden in
Stockwell Road. Attention was drawn to cases
of building operations on disused burial-grounds
in apparent contravention of the Disused Burial
Grounds Act, 1884, and it was decided to take
steps to ensure a full inquiry into each caEe, in
order to secure a due observance cf the law. The
completion of the tree-planting in Whitechapel
Road and the laying out of Allhallows Churchyard.
Lcndon Wall, was announced, and it was agreed
to endeavour to obtain as public open spaces a
vacant site in Mile End Road, the Brixton Oval,
the Copperas, Bromley, E., Walcot and St. Mary's
Squares, S.E., a plot of land in Hornsey, an en-
closure in Upper Street, Islington, and one of the
Jewish disused burial-grounds. Letters were read
respecting a site to be laid out by the association
in Canning Town and vacant sites in Deptfoid
and Walworth. It was decided to prepare plans
for the laying-out of Bromley Churchyard, E.,
and St. Stephen's School ground, Bow, E., and a
correspondence was read between the Earl of
Meath and Lord George Hamilton, the chairman
of the London School Board, on the subject of
extending the teaching of physical training and
swimming in board schools.

Cobbet^'d Gardening.— The fist and, so far
as I know, the only edition of "The English
Gardener," by William Cobbett, was published
by the author in 1829. It is a duodecimo, and is
divided into seven chapters, each of which is sub-
divided into paragraphs, of which there are 551.
The bock is without pagination. It possesses a
merit which many books on gardening singularly
lack — it is well and interestingly written. Cob-
bett was also the author of "The American
Gardener," published in London in 1821. — W.
Roberts.

The weather in West Herts. — April was
a warm spring month, the shade temperature on
twelve days rising above 60°, while the exposed
thermometer at no time registered more than 8° of
frost. At 2 feet deep the temperature of the
ground rose during the month from 43° to 51°,
and at 1 foot deep from 43° to 53°. It is at the
presant time warmer than is usual at the beginning
of May. Rain fell on fourteen days to the total
depth of about 1J inches, which is rather less than
the April mean. The sun shone on an average
for four and a half hours a day, or for a shorter
period than in any April since 1S91. — E. M.,
Berkhan.s'ed.

What ;s a fruit ? — At our local flower show we
have a c'ass for wild duits, and there are often
disputes as to whatconstitu'es a fruit. I should tbere-
f, re be txtremely obliged if any of jour correspondents
would kindly give me a good definition of a fruit. —
J. Henshaw.

J'ames of plants.— Thomas Tyler.— Narcissus

(Jceen of Spain. J. R. A lla n.— Rhododendron

davuricum var. T. Doivn— 1, Rhododendron Nut-

talli ; 2, Epidendrum cochleatum ; 3, Bletia Sherra-

tiana. W. Wright. — 1, Cypripedium Lawrencea-

num ; 2, Aloe g'asteroides ; 3 Pteris longifolia ;

4, Pteris aquilina. J. Anderson— Lissochilus

Krebsi. Constant Reader.— Harrison's Musk. Yes,

it will answer as you suggest.

THE GARDEN

317

No. 1225. SATURDAY, May II, 1895. Vol. XLVII.

" This is an Art
Which does mend Nature ; change It rather ; but
The Aht itself is Nature."— 8hake$p tart.

Chrysanthemums.

RAISING SEEDLINGS.

As has been amply proved in the past, the
raising of seedling Chrysanthemums is very
much of a lottery. Still, when one single ster-
ling novelty like Duchess of York, for instance,
can be had from seed, it affords encouragement
for still further trial. Of course, if seed is
sown, a very large percentage of worlhless
varieties must be expected. But to obtain
such a fine form of the Japanese section from a
selection of twenty-five plants was itdeed a
wonderful piece of good luck. Such returns
are encouraging. It seems almost useless to
attempt seedling raising of other sections ; in-
curved varieties are in nine cases out of ten
poor examples. Much might be done to en-
courage the raising of Chrysanthemums by
offering prizes for home-raised seedlings. The
condilions as to time should be unlimited,
though it is not possible to treat seedlings like
ordinary annuals. Two years really are re-
quired before the plants can be tested properly.
There is a tendency amongst seedliugs to show
large eyes the first season, these in many in-
stances being condemned as worthless. If a
second year's trial of these were carried out, a
greater percentage of desirable blooms would,
no c'oubt, be obtained. Generally raisers of
seedlings are so anxious to see the results, that
the plants are run up with one single stem and
allowed to bloom. Even well-known good
kinds exhibit a marked difference both in
colour and formation when allowed to develop
blooms from the side shoots also. So much does
this affect some varieties as to make them hardly
recognisable ; therefore, in the case of un-
developed seedlings we may expect similar re-
sults. The growing of seedlings occupies much
space and time. A good plan is to plant them
out of doors in some sunny, open situation and
allow all that will to flower in the open, even if
protection from early fiost in a temporary
manner is necessary. An idea can be formed of
those likely to be worth a further trial, and
much valuable space will be saved. Where, of
course, space under glass exists for blooming
the plants even the first year, I recommend
strongly that there they be flowered. Pots
7 inches in diameter are large enough for the
first year's growth. No check should occur to
the plants in the way of allowing them to be-
come root-bound in their initiatory stages. The
one desirable point about seedling Chrysanthe-
mums is that the height of growth and general
habit can be controlled by carefully selecting
suitable types of growth as the seed-bearing
parents. Not so with sports. In all instances
the habit of growth partakes of that from which
the sport originated, no matter whether it is de-
sirable or not. No form or method of culture
can alter this.

Now that work presses heavily in all parts of
the garden there is a possibility of the plants
that are grown for a variety of purposes being
somewhat neglected, except under the most
rigid management. One of the most important
items in culture at this stage is to keep the
plants growing freely by transferring them to
larger pots as they require more space for their
roo'.s, putting those plants for the production

of large blooms into pots 5£ inches in diameter.
For specimens an inch more is not too much at
this stage, and those for bushes and late flowers
should have 5-inch pots. Pompon, Anemone
pompon, and single varieties succeed in
7-inch and 8-inch pots for the final shift. If
they go now into 4J-inch pots, at the next
shift they may go into those in which they are
to flower. In all cases employ a substantial
compost, avoiding much manure, although
sufficient for the production of vigorous growth
must be given. Pot firmly, as if the soil is
placed around the roots in a loose way the
growth made is not firm.

It is useless to expect blooms of that deep,
solid character so pleasing to all connoisseurs of
the flower without ripened wood. It is also
useless to attempt to ripen or mature it in a
couple of months previous to the flowering of
the plants. Maturation must proceed along
with growth. All newly-potted plants should
be kept a trifle closer in the frames for a few
days until the roots are running into the new
soil, when all the air possible should be given.
Plants growing in frames or pits should be fully
exposed to induce a stocky growth ; in fact, the
lights ought to be drawn off them altogether
upon all favourable occasions. It is too early
to expose them entirely by night without some
protection. Plants crippled at the points by
exposure receive such a check to growth that
they seldom recover. Abundance <f space
should also be allowed between the plants.

E. MoLYNBDX.

NOTES ON RECENTLY INTRODUCED
VARIETIES.

In supplementing my former remarks upon the
newer kinds I would first refer to the incurved
sorts. Really good additions to this class are
somewhat slow to appear. The attention of
raisers is apparently concentrated upon the
more showy Japanese, and it is only by chance
an incurved Chrysanthemum of sterling merit
is added. Thus

J. Agate was sold as a Japanese variety, and
on a second trial has developed into a magnificent
ball-shaped flower. It is large, high-centred, and
full. The petals are of fine waxy substance and
the bloom well finished. Colour pure white. It
has an excellent habit, of medium height. The
flower-buds one should select for specimen blooms
are those that come early.

Globe d'Or. — Buff, shaded 3-eHow. This is a
flower of medium size, but deep, full, and nicely
incurved. The plant is of fairly dwarf habit with
good foliage. Do not over-pot this sort. Like most
of the type, a !)-inch size of pot is large enough.
Choose buds of early formation.

Lord Rosebery.— This variety has scarcely
fulfilled the expectations formed of it. Although
pretty largely grown, it was conspicuously absent
in the flowering season. Another year may bring
an improvement, for when the sort was first
seen it was an excellent type of the true incurved
Chrysanthemum. The colour is a dark shade of
rose-purple. It is of good size, well formed, and
the plant is not difficult to grow, but the forma-
tion of desirable blooms is very uncertain.

Mrs. J. Gardiner. — I feel sure we have not
seen this variety at its best yet. It was freely
cultivated last year, but the season may not have
suited it, and I would advise that particular at-
tention be bestowed upon the variety t His year.
The colour is yellow with a buff shade. It is full,
deep, and especially lasting. The blossom is well
incurved to the centre, and has a distinct appear-
ance. It has a good healthy growth and is
dwarf. The bud selected should be early, and
the sort likes generous culture in the matter of
stimulants.

Robert Petfielo. — This has a splendid flower of
the true incurved type, but it is a weakly grower.
The colour of the bloom is a soft shade of pink,
bright and pleasing. Its flowers are large, full,
and deep. An extra amount of charcoal may be
mixed with the compost for this variety and care
be exercised in watering. Buds selected in early
September may be relied upon to perfect a good
specimen.

C. B. YVhitnall. — Varieties of the class under
notice are so rare from America, that this sort is
particularly welcome. It produces extra large,
deep, well-shaped blooms. The colour is purple,
but as the incurved flower exhibits the outer por-
tion of the petals we get a lighter shade. The
plant is a strong, dwarf grower and it should have
a pot of the large size in common uee. Start with
good stout plants in the early season and then
select late formed buds.

Descartes. — This variety and the four that
follow belong to the Anemone-flowered section, a
very pretty class. The sorts at present are some-
what dull as regards colour — I mean we desire
others with red and crimson shades to give more
life to them. This done, there is no reason why
their cultivation should not be considerably ex-
tended. They are easily grown and particularly
free flowering, and when grown without being
disbudded form excellent bunches of bloom for
cutting. The sort above named is a deep crim-
son-red and a very telling colour. The flowers are
of good size, with a well formed centre or cushion,
and the p'ant grows well. There can be no mistake
about the selection of buds in the ease of the
Anemone-flowered if late-formed ones be always
chosen.

Juhoh. — Silvery blush colour. The most re-
markable point in this sort is its well-developed
cushion. In this respect the sort is unequalled in
depth and form. It is not a strong growing kind,
but still a good doer, and one that will be used
freely for show, and for cut flowers.

Jons Bpnyan is now pretty well known as an
excellent yellow variety, uncommonly free, and
of easy culture.

Queen Elizabeth —This variety was intro-
duced at the same time as the last-named, but
somehow it is not so well known. I regard it as
among the very best exhibition Anemone sorts.
Its centre is large and well formed, the guard
florets being long and of pretty formation. The
colour of the bloom is blush rose, with just a
tinge of yellow in the centre. It has a capital
habit of growth.

W. W. Astor.— Another most excellent kind,
of a light blush-pink shade. The centre is high
and showy. It is dwarf and very easily grown,
(iive this sort a large pot, as it wants much mois-
ture at the roots.

There has been nothing of special note
raised for the past year or two among the small
types of Chrysanthemums— the pompons, Ane-
mone pompons, and so on. Several good single-
flowered sorts have been added, the most charm-
ing being

Purity. — This has a most striking and beautiful
white blossom. Its green-tinted centre adds to
its effect. When grown as a large bush plant and
every bud allowed to develop a flower, such a
variety as this is invaluable for cutting.

Mrs. D. B. Crane.- This is not new, but it is
such a charming single that I have included it in
these notes. Cerise-pink of a light tint describes
its shade of colour, and in every ether respect it
is an excellent variety, one that should be seen
everywhere. "■• "■

N» w American Chrysanthemums.— Novel-
ties from America this spring will number less
than a hundred varieties. The principal raisers
who are sending out seedlings are Messrs. Spauld-
inc, Horner. Graham, Pi tcherandManda, Vaughan,
J. if. May, Hill and Son, Smith and Son. A con-
signment of Japanese and Californian seedlings is
among the number. Mr. Hugh Graham, who
raised Philadelphia, the large massive incurved
Japanese which was exhibited at the Aquarium

318

THE GARDEN

[May 11, 1895.

show in November, and to which the silver- gilt
medal of the N.C.S. was awarded, is distributing
several other novelties, viz., Mrs. Wm. H. Hurley,
Mrs. Thos. E. Wiedersheim, and Katherine Leech.
— C. H. P.

M. E. Calvat's new Chrysanthemums.— At

the floral committee meetings of the N.C.S. last
season M. Ernest Calvat was a prominent exhi-
bitor, and several of his new varieties were
awarded first-class certificates. They were Amiral
Avellan, a large yellow Japanese ; C. Harman-
I'ayne, a Japanese of a dark purple shade, spotted
white ; Directeur Tisserand, also of the same sec-
tion, but of an ochre-yellow shaded crimson ; Mr.
R. Ballantine, a carmine-lilac Japanese with sil-
very reverse; and Reine d'Angleterre, also a
Japanese, of a deep mauve and silvery reverse. In
oaeh ca,se the raiser asks the unusually high price
of 24s. for a plant. M. Calvat's success in this
country seems to have induced many of his
countrymen to take up the cultivation of seedlings,
and there are at least seventeen French raisers
announcing the distribution of new Chrysanthe-
mums this spring. Altogether the total number
of novelties from the Continent amounts to 345
supposed new sorts. Some of them are hairy
varieties, some early, a few late, but by far the
greater number are of the ordinary large-flowering
Japanese varieties. — Chrysanth.

CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES.
Stoppinu the plants.— Last year about this
time I wrote in The Garden somewhat in favour
of a system of pinching the tops out of the
plants to hasten or delay (as the case might be)
the production of a bloom bud at or about a
given time. The plan referred to the growth
of the plants for large specimen blooms. After
another year's practice, however, I am not at all
disposed to recommend the plan generally, for
at the best it is misleading. Were all seasons
alike, one might furnish data that would be of
some assistance to others, but how could such
close rules as stopping a shoot on a certain date
in 1893 apply to a similar date in 1894 ? Who
can tell which of these two vastly different
seasons the present one is likely to follow ? I
believe, therefore, that by far the better system
of culture for large blooms is the one which has
now been in vogue for many years past. This
mode is to strike a cutting if possible without
a little flower-bud at its tip, allow it to take its
natural course upwards, and train the single
stem to a stick until a natural stoppage takes
place. This is caused by the formation of a
flower- bud, which is, as a rule, useless for the
purpose of blooming, such bud developing into
an ill-formed mass of florets. The time a
natural stoppage takes place varies according to
the variety, from May to June being most usual.
Now, the object of topping a plant is to delay
the formation of a natural break in an early
flowering sort, so that a further stoppage may
be timed to a particular date ; and also to cause
a break in the case of very late sorts, which
in a natural way may not be obtained early
enough in the season to allow the plant time to
perfect the growth of three other shoots and the
same number of blooms in time for the Novem-
ber shows. For the latter purpose the system
of stopping is commendable, and as the varieties
which may be so operated upon are few in num-
ber, I will name them : Mrs. Falconer Jameson
Mrs. E. W. Claike, The Queen, W. G. Newitt
and the difficult Mrs. Alpheus Hardy. Curiously,
the sorts named are of American origin. I am
a little doubtful about Mrs. F. Jameson, but
believe that was its lirst source, although dis-
tributed in England. Persons who pay atten-
tion to the origin of varieties will have noticed
the natural lateness of American-raised ones ;

a few early kinds such as Wm. Tricker and Mrs.
E. G. Hill only serve to prove the rule. This
fact should be borne in mind in regard to
matters of growth. For easy culture there are
no Chrysanthemums to equal the French-raised
sorts. Take Viviand Morel, Mine. Lacroix,
Mine. Therese Rey among a host of others.
In this respect our English seedlings are in the
rear, sorts like Robert Owen and Viscountess
Hambledon being anything but certain.

With regard to topping, I may say the late
kinds named should be operated upon quite
early in May, even in the south. My views
upon stopping were considerably modified last
season in watching the results of a collection
that had been well managed. Up to the
month of June no plants could have looked
better or grown stronger. They were mostly
incurved sorts and had made their breaks in due
course. Now after the shoots caused by this
break had grown C inches long, the tip of each
was taken out for the purpose of liming the
appearance of crown buds by early September.
Consequently the waste of valuable time in a
sunless season by the formation of new shoots
was so considerable, that the period left was not
long enough to properly develop the new growth,
and instead of having the flower-buds at the
desired date they were late and produced
blooms of an inferior character. But a few
plants left to their natural growth furnished
remarkably fine deep specimen ..blooms. In
that case then, had topping been unknown, the
cultivator would have succeeded in his particu-
lar object — namely, magnificent flowers of the
exhibition type. As an old exhibitor I have
practised more than one mode in the growth of
sorts, because it is wise in close competition to
give all one's resources a trial. I have often
succeeded in one way with a variety of peculiar
habits when orthodox systems have failed me.
I would, however, warn would-be exhibitors
with thoughts of topping choice plants to take
everything into consideration before touching
the same, the position of the garden, whether
favouring quick or slow growth ; the state of
individual plants, whether more forward or
backward than the general batch. Only by
carefully weighing such items as these can one
be in a position to cope with the perfection,
from a florist's standard, that the Chrysanthe-
mum is brought to to-day.

Another matter that causes beginners some
doubt is the size of pots best for the final stages.
I would use two sizes, one for the incurved
class and another for the Japanese kinds. In
the former case select those of 9-inch diameter
and for the latter not less than 10 inches across.
Incurved Chrysanthemums may easily be over-
grown, but the Japanese sorts are seldom too
strong provided the growth becomes well ma-
tured. The advantage of pots of good size is
that we may stand the plants well apart, say 2
feet, in their summer quarters without much
danger of loss of roots through drought.
Of course, watering must not be neglected, but
the larger the pots the less often are supplies
needed. Mr. W. H. Lees (whose magnificent
blooms are admired by all and envied by not a
few exhibitors) depends principally upon pots
larger than I had seen used in many cases,
whilst Mr. E. Beckett, another grower of mar-
vellous blooms, employs sizes not larger than
the 9-inch. The latter, however, does not give
his plants so much room as does Mr. Lees. But
what I wish to point out is the fact that here
are two growers equally successful with the
flower, but who diHer on a point that one might
consider of great importance. I would advise
the use of comparatively small pots for very
strong growing sorts for the purpose of restrain-

ing their tendency to produce coarse blossoms.
In this category are M. R. Bahuant, Lord
Wolseley, ar.d Prince Alfred among incurved
varieties, and Etoile de Lyon, Mrs. C. Harman-
Payne, Duke of York, and Mrs. E. W. Clarke
among the Japanese. The above will be found
a very good means of bringing out what little
refinement such sorts possess.

The style of growth and high feeding with
stimulants necessary for the production of
show blooms, as a rule, tend to exhaust the
powers of the plants for the production of
healthy cuttings after the flowering period is
over. This then is an item of culture we
should see to at the present time of the year.
It generally happens that more plants are pro-
pagated than are needed to grow throughout
the summer for large blooms. These remnants
are valuable for future use. Plant them out on
any spare piece of ground, and by occasionally
stirring the surface soil, as well as freeing
it of weeds, little else will be needed until
autumn, when the plants may be either taken
up and potted or protected outside, and the
desired number of healthy cuttings obtained.
There is plenty of time, again, to root little
cuttings now for the same purpose, and even
the side shoots later on may be made available
rather than depend entirely upon the old stools
for a fresh stock".

The immediate cultural work among Chry-
santhemums is open-air treatment, safe pro-
tection from cold winds and spring frosts,
attention to tying the stems securely, and care-
ful watering. Arrears of potting should be no
longer delayed, and the shoots of bush-grown
plants should not be allowed to get long before
being topped. H. Shoesmith.

Too long names. — Continental raisers seem
to be just as persistent as ever in putting into
commerce novelties with ugly or inordinately
lengthy names. From one or two of the catalogues
I quote the following : Souvenir de Mile. Helene
Ambanopulo, Lutilloux, Souvenir de sa Majeste
le Tzar Alexandre III., S.M.I, la Tzarine Marie
Feodorowna (two of the longest perhaps on record),
and Souvenir de M. Auguste Nouin.— P.

American nomenclature, if wanting occa-
sionally in elegance, is at any rate distinctive.
We seldom find names that have been used for
Chrysanthemums before, a fault fcr which the
French, however, are particularly noted. The
most striking examples from the States this
season are Brigand, Uiavola, Experiment,
Bronze Giant, Autumn Leaves, Octoroon, Paiting
Guest, Oakland, Millbrook, Philadelphia, Jayne,
Nemesis, Sunrise, Radiance, and the like. —
Curysanth.

Prices of new Chrysanthemums. — In

striking contrast to the prices asked for some of
the new French varieties, it may be mentioned
that the American seedlings are offered at an
average of 2s. per plant of each variety. This
difference alone ought to be some encouragement
for our dealers, who are heavily taxed in the
matter of importation, to give preference to tho
productions of the American growers, amongst
whose flowers the percentage of good is just as
high as in the consignments from France. — P.

A Chrysanthemum f.om Japan. — One of

the French raisers is offering a new Japanese
variety which is said to have been raited from
seed imported from the gardens of the Emperor of
Japan, an occurrence which we may suppose to be
somewhat common now-a-days, judging by the
announcements that have already appeared. It
is named after M. Toukouba, who is the director
of the Emperor's garden at Tokio, and who is re-
ferred to- by Mr. James Yeitch in his article, "The
Chrysanthemum in Japan," written for the re-
cently published "Chrysanthemum Year-Book. "
— C,

May 11, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

319

Orchids.

L.ELIA ELECxANS.
The origin of this beautiful Orchid was not
suspected for a longtime after its introduction,
its reputed parents being at the time probably
unknown to cultivation, but by modern authori-
ties it is considered to belong to the newly-
established genus Laelio-Cattleya (Rolfe). The
founder of this genus has so clearly proved
L. elegans to be a bi-generic hybrid, that there
can be little doubt about the matter. For
garden purposes it matters little whether we
call it Lselia or Laslio-C'attleya. Most of the
varieties of L. elegans are considered to be
natural hybrids between Ltelia purpurata and
Cattleya guttata Leopoldi, though srme are
classed as the progeny of the fcrmer species
crossed with Cattleya intermedia. Whatever
their origin they are all exceedingly beautiful
Orchids, and worthy of the best care that can be
bestowed upon them. They may be successfully

grown in pots and a good rough open compost,
such as suits Cattleyas, and are safer rather under
than over-potted. It seems hardly necessaiy
here to go into details of culture, which have
been from time to time given in The Garden.
Briefly, they require the freest ventilation consis-
tent with a suitably high temperature, only suffi-
cient shading to prevent injury to the foliage and
an atmosphere not liable to fluctuations of heat
and moisture. A suitable temperature is 55" at
night, CO bydayin winter, while in the summer
00° by night, running up by sun-heat at closing
time to 75° or 80° will be ample. The pseudo-
bulbs attain a height of from 18 inches to 2 feet
or over, and usually bear a pair of oblong,
leathery green leaves. From between these
the scapes are produced, bearing flowers in ac-
cordance with the strength of the plant, from
three to six being the usual number.

L. elegans is a very variable Orchid, discovered
originally by a collector for the late M. A.
Verschaffelt in St. Catherine's Island, South
Brazil, and introduced by him to the Belgian

gardens. The flowers, produced at various times L. e. melanochilur is a pretty variety with
during the summer and early autumn months, light purple sepals and darker petals; lip rosy
last from three weeks to a month in good con- purple in front, the side lobes white, tipped with
dition if carefully protected from moisture. They bright rose.

are often from 5 inches to 6 inches across. The L. E. Mosstje is another grand dark form, the
typical form is described in a horticultural period- crimson-purple ground being sparsely covered with
ical of 1S."iO, soon after its introduction, as being reddish spots. The throat and tips of the side
bright rosy pink in ground colour, pale yellow at lobes of the lip are deep crimson,
the base of the petals, the lip three lobed, wavy L. e. ntxeptha bears large flowers, the sepals
on the edge, the side lobes white, the middle lobe tinted yellow and rose, lightly spotted towards
deep purple. This almost exactly corresponds the tips with purple, the petals similar in ground
with the L. elegans of the present day. colour, but broader and rather more suffused with

L. E alba is a nearly pure white form of the purple than the sepals ; the lip bright purple in
type, with the exception of the lip, which has the front, paler in the side lobes.

deep purple blotch on the middle lobe marked L. E. PBASIATA. — This variety has a greenish
with white and ehaded on the edge with a rosy tinge to the rosy sepals and petals : the lip white
lilac tinge. at the base and side lobes, the front crimson-

L. e. Blunti is a dark-flowered variety with purple,
sepals and petals of a bright magenta-purple. L. e. Schili.erjana and its varieties enspatha,
The lip is white, tinged with rose at the base, the irrorata, magnifica, and Wolstenholmia- belong
front portion being light crimson. to the set now grouped under La'lio-Cattleya Schil-

L. E. Bkoomeana is described as a dark col- leriana, and are all considered to be hybrids be-
oured form, the sepals and petals broad, deep tween Ladia purpurata and Cattleya intermedia,
purple at the points, gradually paling to light, L. E. Tavtzjana is a magnificent variety, which
rose at the base. The lip is intensely and richly has very broad sepals and petals, the former light,

the latter deep purple, the
side lobes of the lip white,
distinctly and finely tipped
with purple. There are two
yellow blotches in the throat,
the front portion deep velvety
purple.

L. E. Turneri, the subject
of the accompanying illustra-
tion, is one of the finest in the
genus ; in fact, there is no
question about its being one
of the best Orchids in exist-
ence. It was named in com-
pliment to the late Mr. J. A.
Turner, of Manchester, and
bears very largerichly coloured
flowers. The sepals and petals
are bright amethyst-purple,
with deeper veins, and the
lip has awell-defined magenta-
purple blotch on the front
iobe ; the side lobes are white,
tipped with light rose.

There are several other
varieties of this superb Or-
chid, all more or less dis-
tinct and valuable, some
quite unique, but enough
have been mentioned to show
the importance of the sec-
tion. A great many varie-
ties, the darker forms more
especially, are valuable on
account of their flowering
towards the end of the sum-
mer at a time when Orchids of the best kinds
are becoming scarce, and at the late August
and September shows well-bloomed plants fre-
quently take very high positions. H. R.

Lmlia elegans Turneri. Engraved for The Garden from a pliotngraph sent by Mr. 11". Taylor, Glasgow

coloured on the front lobe, the side lobes becom-
ing much paler towards the throat.

L. E. I'.lenheimessis is a grand form with large
and highly-coloured 'flowers. This and the
varieties Duchess and marlboroughensis first
flowered with Mr. Whillans, gardener to the Duke
of Marlborough, at Blenheim Palace. Oncidium ampliatum msjus.— This fine

L. E. EMii.r.E is a white-flowered variety, not species produces bright yellow blossoms upon an
so strong in growth as some of the preceding.

The lip has a broad wavy margin of rich ma-
genta, which is intensified in the front or middle
lobe.

L. E. GIGANTEA is a large nearly white form
with light rose-coloured spots, rather indistinctly
and irregularly marked. The lip is purple, with
light violet lines shading to a white base.

L. E. INCAXTAXA has the sepals and petals
whitish, suffused with violet ; the lip white at the
base, spreading and wavy on the outer edges, and,
like the front lobe, bright magenta-purple.

L. e. Measuresiana is a peculiar, but very at-
tractive form, with light yellow sepals and petals,
bordered with purple ; the lip prettily streaked
and spotted with purple under the column, and
the usual deep purple blotch in front.

erect scape, which often attains a height of 3 feet
or more. This is much branched, and during
the months of May and June carries a quantity
of flowers, which, if not sprinkled by water from
the syringe, will last a long time in perfection.
It is a very showy species and makes a grand
plant for exhibition. I have noticed this doing
remarkably well this season in several gardens.
It succeeds best when placed at the hottest end of
the Cattleya house with a nice moist atmosphere.
It was discovered about sixty years ago in Costa
Rica. — G.

Phalsenopsis Luddemanniana. — I recently
noticed a very fine specimen of this grand Moth
Orchid with thirteen flowers upon two spikes.
The flowers are each about 2 inches in diameter,
with pale yellow sepals barred with reddish brown,

320

THE GARDEN

I Mat 11. 1895.

the petals about equal or rather smaller in size,
bright purple, with brownish blotches, the margins
of each being nearly white. The lip is small,
bright purple in front, the side lobes white and
yellow. This species was introduced by Messrs.
Low and Co. in lSb'4, and is very variable in the
colour of its (lowers. It is a native of the
Philippine Islands and requires but little material
round its roots to grow it to perfection. A small
quantity of good living Sphagnum Moss to hold
the moisture is all that should be attached to the
block or cylinder. — W.

Cypripedium Elliottianum. — I have re-
ceived a remarkably fine variety of this from Mr.
Joseph Broome, of Sunny Hill, Llandudno. When
first imported it is generally a difficult subject to
establish, but it is well worih any attention that
may be bestowed upon it. The flowers from Mr.
Broome are of fine form and substance, the dorsal
sepal large, pointed, ivory white, and streaked
with brownish crimson veins, the lower sepal
similar, but smaller, of a lighter ground colour
and not so densely striped. The petals, which
stand out at right angles, are nearly a foot across,
broad, with undulated margins, spotted with lines
of red at the base, which terminate in lines of
reddish brown from about the centre. The lip is
also large, in form very much like that of C.
Stonei, ivory white at the base, in front com-
pletely flushed with rose, reticulated arc! veined
with a much deeper colour. It is a very fine form,
being larger than usual, and the broader seg-
ments with the zebra-like stripes are very effec-
tive. This species very much resembles C. Roth-
schildianum in nearly every respect, although it is
considered to be distinct. One feature is very
observable in the blooms; the petals in C. Elliott-
ianum stand out stiff and quite at right angles,
whilst in C. Rothschildianum they are drooping.
The best position for this lovely kind is in the
East India house. — G.

L.FLIA PUBPURATA.

L.f.lia pukpubata, one of the showiest Orchids
yet introduced from South America, will now
be commencing to bloom. It was first dis-
covered about forty-eight years ago and intro-
duced by the Belgian nurseryman, M. Ver-
schafi'elt. It flowered in this country for the
first time in Messrs. Backhouse's establishment
at York, since which time it has always found
much favour. This plant is a native of Brazil,
growing in the province of Santa Caterina,
from whence it has been imputed in immense
quantities for several years. When not in bloom
it forms a striking and noble object, with its
long pseudo bulbs and long, leathery, evergreen
leaves. These latter often measure between
1 foot and IS inches in length. To succeed well
with this fine L;elia the plants should be well
expostd to the sun and light, which will induce
them to produce strong growths and an abund-
ance of blooms. During the winter months
the plants that may not have properly finished
their growths should be encouraged to do so by
earefully supplying moisture and not allowing
the temperature to be lower than (10°. L. pur-
purata commences to make new growths directly
the flowers are past, when the repotting should
be done as speedily as possible, care being taken
to have the pots well drained, and using for
compost fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss.
For newly-imported pieces, which should be
selected with good dormant eyes, the best plan
is to place them in pots or baskets with nothing
else but broken crocks, firmly fixing the plants
in an erect position. These should be kept in a
moist and shady place and frequently sprinkled
with the syringe.

During the last few years L. purpurata has
become a remarkably cheap plant and within
the reach of all, owing to the large importations
which are frequently arriving. The flowers are

borne on robust peduncles, which carry from
three to eight blooms, individually measuring
7 inches and 8 inches in diameter. These
appear usually from the middle of May till the
end of July, and if kept dry will last quite six
weeks in perfection. This plant will no doubt
take a very prominent position in all our exhi-
bitions for the next two months, as it is one of
the most showy and useful kinds we have for
this purpose. A good typical form may be de-
scribed as having sepals and petals similar, the
latter broader, mostly white, but sometimes
Hushed with pale rose and veined with a deeper-
shade. The front lobe is spreading, with fringe 1
edge and of an intense rich purple, veined
with a very deep maroon, the lines of this
colour passing direct to the base through the
yellow throat. Where the necessary conveni-
ence is at command, this free-flowering Lffilia
deserves a place in evu-y collection. Amongst
the named varieties that have appeared from time
to time a few are especially worthy of notice.

L. purpurata Brysiana is a very distinct va-
riety, having the sepals and petals of a fine light
rose, veined with a deeper shade, whilst the trout
lobe of the lip is deep rich purple.

L. purpurata Russelliana. — A charming con-
trast when placed side by side with the other
varieties. The sepals and petals are white, tinted
with pale lilac ; the lip is also lilac, but of a
deeper shade, veined and reticulated with rosy
purple; the throat rich yellow.

L. purpurata SciiroiDEri. — The sepals and
petals of this are pure white, as is also the lip,
excepting the tip, which is slightly flushed.

L. purpurata Williamsi. — This is a richly
coloured kind with rose sepals and petals, veined
and reticulated with purple ; the lip is also of an
intense rich crimson-magmta, tipped with rosy
purple.

L. purpurata Archduke is possibly the
deepest coloured kind that has been introduced,
the flowers being large, and, like those of the
preceding form, distinguished by their broad seg-
ments, which in this are rosy purple, the lip
being very deep maroon.

L. purpurata Mandaiana. — This is of the
purest white, with three very pale streaks of
mauve running down the lip. This is no doubt
the purest white form that has appeared.

G.

ONCIDIUM CUCULLATUM.

As the plants of this pretty species go out of
bloom they may be repotted or surfaced if neces-
sary and put in order for the growing season.
All the varieties of this Oncidium are found grow-
ing at considerable elevations, and will not thrive
in a stuffy, heated atmosphere. What they like
is a quite cool, moist and airy temperature all
through the year. If convenient they thrive well
in small pans suspended, though this is not abso-
lutely necessary. A good deal of water being re-
quired at the root, the drainage must have special
attention. Thus treated they are exceedingly
pretty, and the fine flower-spikes produced under
these conditions make them favourites wherever
grown. The typical

O. cucullatum ie a native of New Grenada ;
the flower-scapes are erect, bearing many flowers ;
the sepals and petals rosy purple, the lip broad,
rosy white, shading to white, sometimes wholly
rose, spotted with deep purple.

0. c. Chestertoni is a very bright-coloured
form of the type, with narrow sepals and petals,
the lip spotted with bright red.

O. c. flavidum is a yellow-flowered variety,
quite distinct from the type, but similar in habit
and shape of inflorescence. The lip is purple,
with a white margin.

O. c. macrochilum is a strong-growing, large-
flowered variet}'. The segments are crimson-
purple, the lip mauve, with violet spots. Quite
distinct from all the others is

O. c. nuuicendm, a variety said to be found at
a greater elevation than any other ; it is on this
account known as "the Orchid of the clouds."
The pseudo-bulbs are shorter than in most other
varieties and the blossoms are dull purple, with a
white spotted lip. This and

O. c Piiai„i:noi'sis are frequently classed as
species. The latter is a charming and distinct
Orchid, the ground colour white, with varying
purple and crimson markings. All the varieties
are well worth growing. They usually flower in
early spring and last a considerable time in full
beauty. R.

CULTURE OF WARSCEWICZELLAS.
JUDGING from the few examples one comes
across in collections, these Orchids are usually
considered difficult to grow, and it is a fact
that in order to be successful with them a good
deal of care and judgment is necessary. This
and the allied genera Huntleya, Pescatorea,
and Bollea are peculiar in having no pseudo-
bulbs, and although they require different tem-
peratures, their treatment in other respects is
almost identical. The best position for Warsce-
wiczellas is a shady part of the Cattleya house,
more heat than is here afforded causing the
plants to be soon overrun by insects, and there-
by weakened. A great point in their culture
is to obtain strong plants and to keep them
healthy by timely attention, anticipating their
wants instead of allowing the plants to go back-
ward from want of new compost or other
requisite. Small, weakly plants must have
very little compost about them, as the roots,
though fairly large, are not produced in suffi-
cient numbers to occupy the compost. Strong,
healthy plants with abundant leafage, on the
other hand, may be induced to push vigorous
shoots through a compost quite as substantial
as that used for the majority of Orchids, and it
is then entirely the fault of the cultivator if
the plants go wrong. It was a revelation to me
to see recently some plants of W. Wendlandi
discolor that had rooted through and through a
thickness and quality of compost sufficient for
a fairly strong Cymbidium, and this in a house
closely packed with Orchids of various South
American genera. There is, however, a limit
to any plant's endurance in this respect, and
cultivators will be wise to not rush too quickly
into extremes with their compost for this or
any other Orchid. What should be aimed at is
a mfdium that, while containing no ingredient
likely to become sour, or swill into and among
the drainage, yet affords ample sustenance for the
roots without continual waterings. Very fibrous
loam broken into lumps as large as a pigeon's egg,
some nodules of charcoal, and some chopped
Sphagnum will constitute the basis for large
examples, but a very thin layer of this compost
must be given, the pots being filled nearly to
the rims with crocks. If the plauts are surfaced
over with Sphagnum after being repotted, this
checks evaporation from the compost and does
away with a good deal of watering, which is not
adxisable with newly-potted Orchids of any
kind. Small plants may also be grown on cork
blocks dressed with Sphagnum, or, if they can
be obtained, pieces of Tree Fern stems. A
good deal of attention in watering is needed if
grown in this way, and the plants are safest with
a little fresh growing Moss about the roots.
Warscewiczellas require no drying oil' during the
resting period, and it is then the greatest care
is necessary. I always remove a little of the
Sphagnum from about the plants, but not all of
it, as it serves the double purpose of a con-
ductor of moisture to the roots and a guide to
the state of the compost. It is perhaps hardly
necessary to add that in repotting, every particle
of decayed soil, root, or root-stock must be re-

Mat 11, 1895.1

THE GARDEN.

321

moved, and it is a great advantage if in a bad
state at the roots to wash every part of the plant
with tepid water, carefully avoiding injury to the
eyes or young shoots or puncturing the foliage.
Although not gaudy in colour, Warscewic-
zellas are very quaint and interesting, and ama-
teurs desiring a change from the ubiquitous
Cattleyas, Odontoglots, or other easily grown
Orchids will find a good deal of pleasure in
their culture, the little additional risk stimu-
lating their faculties and leading them to take
greater interest in the well-being of their collec-
tions. U- R.

Although the individual flowers are small and incon-
spicuous compared with those of many other kinds in
this genus, it is nevertheless a beautiful plant, and
should And more favour than it does. The spikes
carry a very large quantity of blossoms of a deep
violet colour aud very sweetly scented. It was dis-
covered by Edward Klaboch and soon found its way to
this country, where it flowered for the first time in
1880— W.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Oncidium retusum. — Some flowers of this
very pretty dwarf-growing kind are to hand from
" J. L." The sepals and petals are of a deep orange,
the lip of a very bright shade of the 9ame colour. It

Flower Garden.

PYROLA ROTUNDIFOLIA.

This is a native plant, but so localised and rare
that we shall never become familiar with it
unless we grow it in the garden. It is quite
good enough to merit a place and will well repay
us with its beauty for such care as it needs. Its
popular name of Winter Green happily expresses
the beauty of the plant in winter, with its tufts

family and very attractive at this season. Its
large clusters of yellow and white flowers appear-
ing above a mass of deep green foliage make the
plant rather conspicuous. The leaves are deeply
divided, giving the plant a most beautiful appear-
ance. Corydalis nobilis with me does best in the
shade, and at the present time there are over
thirty clusters of flowers fully open. — W. H.

The Winter Green (Pyrola rotundifolia) . From a photograph sent by Mr. J. C. Smith, Nandana, Penrith.

is a useful species, of dwarf habit, and can therefore '
be easily accommodated. — W.

Odontoglossum madrense (J. L.).— This is a
Mexican species and thrives best with a rather warmer
temperature than is usually given the majority of
Odotttoglots. The flower sent is white, blotched at the
base of the sepals and petals with chestnut-purple, the lip
having a yellow disc. It is also known under the
name of ( >. maxillare.

Odontoglossum Rossi Amesianum. —
Flowers of this remarkably pretty variety come from I
Jlr. James Cypher, of Bath. It is without doubt one
of the most beautiful forms of the type, the sepals and
petals deeply marked with dark chestnut, the base
of the latter being very much barred, the remaining
portion pure white ; the lip is also white.

Cattleyaluteola.— I recently noticed this seldom-
seen little species towering in a suburban collection,
under the name of C. Forbesi. This is a very dwarf
growing species, possibly the smallest in this genus,
and no doubt is not so largely grown as many other ,
kinds owing to its not having very showy flowers.
These are l^ss than 2 inches ia diameter and of a pale ]
yellow col.ur. 1 think this is a very late time in the
year for it to flower, the usual season being during
November and December. A shady and moist position
suits it best. — W.

Odontoglossum Edwa.rdi. — Under this name
" J. L." sends me a st rik ng and tine sj ike of bloom.

of rich green leaves. It is worth growing for
foliage effect alone, as a carpet plant to a group
of some choice Lily in a situation agreeable to
both. It is also a handsome flowering plant,
the flowers appearing at the tips of the stems,
borne in graceful drooping racemes with from
ten to twenty blooms on each. The flowers are
each about half an inch across, pure white in
colour, and sweetly scented. There should be
no difficulty in growing this plant well by
exercising thought and care in the choice of a
situation for it. What a pretty group could be
made with this and a few kindred things like
Menziesia empetriformis, Epigsea repens, the
small Gaultherias, choice Andiomedas and
Rhododendrons like the new R. racemosum.

The Virginian Cowslip (Mertensia virginica)
is blooming very freely this season at the present
time. On a small bed which is made up with
peat there are hundreds of beautiful clusters of
light blue flowers. It has been in bloom for the
past fortnight. The first flowers are just fading,
and these have a pink tinge. — W. H.

Corydalis nobilis. — This plant is not grown
so much as it ought to be. It is the best of the

DAFFODILS AT LONG DITTON.

The merits of the best known Daffodils in their
several sections and the tine display they make
in the grounds of those who grow them in quan-
tity are familiar to readers of The Garden.
Something, however, may profitably be said
concerning recent or little-known varieties, and
to facilitate observations, Mr. Barr has this
year adopted an excellent plan in his nursery
of growing a few lines of all the sorts in several
special beds, thus saving much labour in examin-
ing them, besides affording ready oppor-
tunities of comparison. The varieties of
each section or family growing so near
each other, it was possible at a glance
to distinguish those most noteworthy.
Among the trumpet-flowered varieties,
W. E. Gladstone and Golden Prince,
both of the maximus type, were fine,
the former light yellow, the latter of a
deeper hue, with a large expanded
trumpet. John Nelson has a graceful
flower, of a clear self yellow, with twisted
petals, and Lady Dorothy is distinct,
having short petals of a light yellow
colour, with short trumpet of a deeper
hue. M. J. Berkeley, also after maxi-
mus, has a large, expanded, rich yellow
trumpet, and Sharinan Crawford is
similar, the edge of the trumpet deeply
lobed and the creamy petals gracefully
twisted. Dick Sartoris is a distinct Daf-
fodil, the base of the flower on the out-
side being rich yellow, shading to pale
cream at the tips of the petals, which
are imbricated and project towards the
mouth of the long trumpet.

In the bicolor varieties Dean Herbert
is one not much grown, tall and hand-
some. J. B. M. < 'anini is superb, a
sturdy grower, free flowering, pale in
colour, the petals creamy white, the
trumpet of the palest yellow, becoming
with age nearly as light as the petals.
C. W. Cowan has a fine nodding flower
on a tall stem with twisted petals, the
only bicolor variety having this characteristic.
Mrs. J. B. M. Camni, dwarf and fine, and
Princess Ida, pale cream with flush of brighter
yellow about the mouth of the trumpet, are
charming, and vV. P. Milner is a dwatf free
kind with a flower much like that of pallidus
prpecox. In the star- flowered varieties C. J.
Backhouse is distinct, with a large flower and
a rich orange cup. Gloria Mundi is one of the
finest, its petals deep yellow and its large ex-
panded cup of a bright orange colour. Beauty
has a tine flower, extra broad in the petal and
borne on a tall, strong stem. Magog is distin-
guished by its large, open, rich yellow cup.
Princess Mary has tine broad, white petals and
clear yellow cup, and Commander is even finer,
broad in petal, with a long fringed cup, extra
bright in colour.

Among the Barri varieties, Maurice Vilmorin
is one that should become popular, being dwarf,
free and distinct, with yellow petals and a neat
rich yellow cup. Flora Wilson is a grand kind,
the petals almost white, the cup edged with bright
orange. Dorothy Wemyss has creamy petals
and a bright cup prettily fringed at the edge.

322

THE GARDEN.

[May 11, 1895.

The Leedsi varieties are especially pure in I
colour and charming in effect, yet perhaps no
section of the great Daffodil family is so little
known and grown. The finest of all is Duchess
of Westminster, which has a flower of fine pro-
portions and exquisite purity of colour. Bea-
trice, with pure white petals and neat cup, and
Fanny Mason are pretty varieties. Gem is a
distinct kind in this family, having large flowers
with a long cup rather inflated in the middle
and contracted at the mouth. Quite opposite
in character is Minnie Hume, which has a
widely expanded cup. Catherine Spurrel is a I
free-flowering variety that has been abundant |
at the shows this spring, having pure white petals j
and lemon yellow cup. Madge Matthews has a j
graceful starry flower, with twisted petals and a .
tube-shaped cup. Princess of Wales and Mrs. '
Langtry both have pretty fluted cups, that of
the latter having a bright yellow edge. Nar-
cissus Nelsoni major, like a miniature bicolor
trumpet Daffodil, is a distinct and effective
kind, with short, broad white petals and a long
neat cup. Two varieties of it worthy of note
are aurantius, which is extra rich in the
colour of its cup, and Mrs. Backhouse, having
a long cup. A fine variety of N. poeticus is
that called grandiflorus. It has an open, long-
petalled flower on a tall stem, the cup edged
with deep red regularly defined as a distinct
margin round the edge.

Ranunculus anemonoides. — Evidently this
plant has been benefited by the extreme cold
of the past winter. I never had or saw the
flowers and leaves finer than now. The flowers
came in March, and a succession is promised for
some time yet. Each flower is the size of a florin
and rosy white. In a moist chink of rockwork a
little group is an exquisite picture. A very deep
seam of soil is the best. For a plant so humble the
roots are both stout and long, and it flowers freely
only when the roots are in a suitable medium.

Anemone Pulsatilla, which used to be and
is probably still called Coventry Bells and Hill
Tulip, as well as more generally Pasque Flower,
or Easter Flower, is singular for the almost in-
variable habit of coming into blossom at Easter,
oven when the winter has been prolonged and
severe, like the one just gone. Unlike most
other Anemones, it has a decided preference for
lime, being found wild on chalk hills. It is also
very variable, so much so that some forms are
hardly recognised from the more refined and less
robust A. Halleri. J. Wood.

Woodville, Kiristall.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.

Megasea africana. — Under this name I have
long grown a very dwarf form with medium-
sized leaves of a very thick substance and bright
in colour. It is hardy beyond question and blooms
earlier than Stracheyi by nearly a month, the
flowers, which are borne in crowded spikes, being
pure white. So close are the flowers to the ground,
that the spikes of blossom present the effect of a
white Hyacinth without bare stem. It is a capital
subject for the rock garden.

Anemone blanda — a superior strain which I
received from Asia Minor, and which I had a note
about in these columns last year — yet sustains its
reputation. The pan of tubers has not been dis-
turbed in any way, and I now have come to believe
that the improved features are permanent. These
consist of flowers 2 inches to 2h inches across. The
corollas are much fuller — in fact, the petals are par-
tially imbricate. I find blanda seeds profusely
and self-sown seedlings come up all round. I fancy
that the many washed-out colours one sees now
of this are seedlings that have got crossed in gar-
dens with apennina.

Epig-wa repens.— One does not see or hear
much of this, but it is really too sweet a subject
to be neglected. I suppose the two chief diffi-
culties with it are the securing of good growing
specimens and the provision of suitable conditions
of culture. As I have said before, young or seed-
ling plants are the best even if much smaller ;
then, if you give peat and loam, with some pieces
of sandstone to prevent evaporation, you will not
be likely to err. Of course the district should
be a fairly good one for general gardening, and
an east aspect, with shade from powerful sun-
shine, is all the better. I have found it best to
plant in positions somewhat depressed or dish-
shaped ; this secures to the plant the moisture
essential.

Shortia galacifolia — This is now in flower in
the open air. It is often asked if this gem is
quite hardy. Of course it is, but I will add one
fact. One plant now in flower here is on a raised
bed in ordinary loam. It has been there for three
years this spring without in any shape or form the
least protection either from cold or sunshine, and
the plant is spreading its leaves as red as Thorn
berries. It grows till late and begins early.
Alwaj-s beautiful in flower, the blossom is larger
and purer when produced under glass.

GARDENING AT PENZANCE.

Everyone knows of Penzance as a beautiful
Cornish town very near to the Land's End, and
together with Newlyn forming a horseshoe or
crescent around the shores of Mount's Bay, from
the blue waters of which St. Michael's Mount
rises like a castle-crowned rock pyramid, just
as does its namesake near Avranches, in Brit-
tany. Cornwall is just now very beautiful with
its Primrose banks and grey Oak woods, its
tender young Larch, and wild Cherries white
with blossom ; but Penzance is specially in-
teresting, as its inhabitants are so fond of gar-
dening in the fields and even in the heart of
the town itself. Broccoli and new Potatoes are
largely grown in this locality, and there are
fields of crimson Wallflower that have escaped
the scathing frosty winds of the past winter,
and now fetch a good price in the market.
Even here, however, there are signs of the bad
weather, even the Gorse bushes being browned
and in some exposed places killed to the ground.
Conifers also have been badly scorched, and
Veronicas, Euonymuses, Myrtles, Bamboos,
Blue Gum Trees (Eucalyptus), Cordylines, and
New Zealand Flax are all more or less injured.
Curiously enough, the old and presumably
hardy Rhododendron ponticum is badly cut,
even worse in many places than are the hybrid
seedlings. Everyone iu Penzance cultivates
plants and flowers, and even the windows
of the smallest cottages contain plants
of many kinds not usually seen in such
restricted quarters. Begonias, Oxalis, Fig
Marigolds, Mimuluses, Cacti, and Aloes are
common, and in the villas the Arums and
Azaleas, choice Palms, Ferns, and India-
rubber Ficus are beautifully grown. In one
window I saw a tine Sparmannia, and in
others Pelargoniums — not only zonals and
fancy or show kinds, but even some of the
old species long ago figured by Andrews and
Sweet in their monographs of these once fashion-
able flowers. In some little windows Musk and
Saxifragasarmentosa are beautifully grown, and
everywhere, in front of the houses and trim
little front gardens, planted as hedges or on
walls, are gold and silvery varieties of Euony-
mus, the brilliancy of the golden forms being
most effective. Tue Euonymuses are used here
and all along the south coast in many pretty
ways, and, as grown on walls, porches and
pillars, they form a close carpet of gold or
green, quite different in effect and texture from
the Ivies so generally used in similar positions
in more inland or northern places. There is a

small, but nicely kept public park, called Mor-
rab Gardens, in Penzance, the lawns lying up.
the slope of ttie hill facing Mount's Bay. It
contains a few groups of Elm and other trees,
including Apples, Mulberries, and a quaint old
Medlar with a twisted trunk, and evidently
planted long before the gardens themselves
were formed. A rock-edged pool is filled with
aquatics and gold fish, and there is a public
library, and a record of temperature, <fec, is
posted daily on the door. There are here some
fine clumps of Bambusa Metake, and good
plants of Cordyline australis, Agaves, &c, but
isolated too much instead of being placed in
bold groups.

The fruit trees in the little gardens are full
of blossom, and there are little lawns and beds
or edgings of Auriculas, Primulas, Arabia, &c,
on all sides, and one may safely say that fish
and flowers appeal to the Cornish people more
forcibly than to the fishermen elsewhere, ex-
cepting, of course, those of the adjacent Isles of
Scilly. A fertile soil, warm and sandy, and
a genial climate no doubt exert a great influence
on cultural traits of this kind, and enable the
Cornish cultivators to compete successfully in
our markets with foreign growers, although
they are very heavily handicapped by their
produce having to make such a long railway
journey. F. W. B.

THE AURICULA.
As I write these lines we are within two weeks of
the exhibition, and I have not in my large collection
half a dozen fully developed trusses amongst the
edged varieties. Growers in the north say that
no flowers can be out in time. We are now getting
very fine varieties in the self class, and these are
always ahead of the edged flowers. At the pre-
sent time (April 9) there are about thirty 'fine
trusses of yellow self seedlings developed in our
collection ; these of themselves make a fine dis-
play. The yellow selfs, although they are to all
intents and purposes show Auriculas, have not
been good enough to be exhibited as such. The
very pretty yellow self Buttercup raised by the
Rev. F. D. Horner is far ahead of any other
yellow self, and when at its best might very well
be admitted as an exhibition variety. For gar-
den purposes there are a number of varieties,
yellow with grey, green and white margins, which
are very pretty indeed. I exhibited a bronzy
yellow a year or two ago under the name of Old
Gold, which was certificated.

If the weather continues favourable, the plants
make rapid growth after the middle of April, but I
would warn fanciers of the danger of forcing them
either by artificial heat or exposure to the sun.
Artificial heat with little ventilation draws the
plant up, the stems are weakened so that they can-
not hold the trusses erect, thecorolla(or pip)is con-
tracted to half its size, and so poor are the flowers
that it does not seem worth while to spend time
and money cultivating them. On the other hand,
exposure to bright sunshine has a disastrous effect
in shrivelling up the flowers as soon as they expand.
The best results are obtained by allowing the
flowers to develop slowly. They must be lightly
shaded from sunshine as soon as the trusses begin
to develop and air must be admitted freely, but
not so as to expose them to draughts. The deli-
cate texture of the corolla is much injured by ex-
posure to the wind blowing through the house ; it
is better not to allow this for other reasons. Pre-
parations must be made to repot the old plants,
and the young offsets should also be potted on as
they require it. Overpotting must be avoided,
and the plants should be repotted rather deeper
than they were before. During the autumn and
winter season they lose their leaves, leaving bare
stems an inch or more in length. When the
plants are turned out of their pots part of the
old soil should be removed and the base of the
main roots examined, as sometimes decay has set

May 11, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

323

in. All the decayed portion should be removed,
and this will allow of the plants being lowered
sufficiently to bring the lower leaves down almost
to the surface of the soil. Drain the flower-pots
well and pot firmly in good loam four parts, decayed
manure one part, leaf-mould one part, and a mode-
rate proportion of coarse fand.

As soon as the flowering period is over the
plants should be removed to frames on the north
side of a wall or building of some kind. In order to
get the seedlings to flower well next season they
must not receive any check during the summer,
and should be potted on as they require it. As
the warm weather sets in, green-fly will also in-
crease in numbers, and this troublesome pest must
be got rid of at all hazards. I find fumigating
with tobacco smoke is the best way to deal with
it. The white woolly aphis which attacks the
roots is troublesome enough, but it does not do
anything like the mischief that green-fly does. In
repotting, the woolly aphis should be removed
from the roots, especially where it has fastened
on the neck of the plants. J. DOUGLAS.

Ixias and their allies. — There is a class of
bulbous plants represented by the Ixias, Sparaxis,
and Babianas that possess the great merits of
cheapness, simple cultural requirements, and
remarkably showy blossoms totally different from
anything else in our greenhouses. Pretty though
the}' be, these plants are very seldom seen. A
great many are grown in the Channel Islands, and
large numbers are sent from there in the shape of
dry bulbs during the autumn months. They
rcch here as a rule about the same time as the
Tulips, Hyacinths, &c. , from Holland, where also
the Ixias are largely grown. A very convenient
way of growing them for greenhouse decoration is
to put about eight or ten bulbs in a pot 5 inches in
diameter. A frame or a light position in the
greenhouse will suit them well in the winter,
during which time care must be taken not to over-
water them, as the roots will not be particularly
active, and in all stages the plants are very impa-
tient of an excess of moisture. This must be par-
ticularly guarded against when they are plan ted out
of doors, as in a nice warm border in the front of
a greenhouse and facing the south they will in
some places do well. As they commence to push
up in the spring care must be taken that they are
not allowed to draw up weakly, otherwise a good
deal of their beauty is lost. When grown in pots
the bulbs generally become weaker after flowering,
but they can be obtained at such a cheap rate that
they give a good return for the outlay the first
season. The long wiry stems of these plants
stand them in good stead when they are used in a
cut state for filling vases and similar purposes. —
H. P.

The Daffodil bloom in the south of Ire-
land.— This has been a most protracted season of
bloom, more so than for fifteen years within my
recollection. Flowers of Ard-Righ, that I always
had out of doors at the end of January, were
not gathered until the second week in March,
and now the third week in April I can gather
from nearly every known section. The bloom in
quantity has not been that of other years — a
general remark applicable to old clumps esta-
blished in grass, such as Princeps, Telamonius
plenus, &c. In a cottage garden close to this
place I have been always admiring the quantities
of blossom on some large clumps of N. princeps,
where not even one flower appeared this season.
Another notable occurrence : Every grower of Van
Sion for market will from year to year remark how
a season changes the colour and solidity of his
flowers. This season — the first for three or four
— Van Sion has been very satisfactory, and, what
is better still, the flowers have been nearly all
solid trumpets, not split up, as in other years. I
think the previous summer's hot sun did the mis-
chief in the splitting up of bloom, because I have
always noticed more of the effect in hot south
borders where the bulbs are not disturbed than in

one plants the old double white Narcissus, and the
moister the position, with ample drainage, the
larger and finer the flowers. After all, I have
come to the conclusion that all sorts of Narcissi
thrive best in grass. There is an estate not far
from here where for over 150 years Telamonius
plenus has been allowed to grow undisturbed on a
portion of meadow land, which is irrigated annually,
and I never saw the blooms finer and more
numerous. — W. Baylor Hartlaxd, Ard Cairn,
Cork.

Tufted Pansies from cuttings. — To raise
stock of these plants it is generally recommended
that the cuttings should be struck in a frame.
I find no necessity for this, and for some years I
have put the cuttings in an open border facing
west, and here they have struck freely and well,
the young plants being stronger and healthier in
every way than they were when I used a frame.
Even during the past winter not one of the cuttings
was injured by the frost, and they emerged from
their covering of snow in excellent condition for
planting. One strong argument in favour of this
plan of striking out-doors is the extra room that
can be afforded to each cutting ; they are also not
debilitated by confinement or neglect of ventila-
tion. I find it a good plan to bury the cuttings
very nearly to their tips, as they are not then so
liable to suffer from drought. Varieties in both
sections that have done well with me are Violetta,
Sylvia, Quaker Maid, Holyrood, Bullion, Glow,
Souvenir, Golden Bedder, The Mearns and Per-
fection. Besides these I have many home-raised
seedlings that have appeared good enough to keep,
among them a pure white and rayless tufted
Pansy.— J. C. Tallack.

LATHR.EA CLANDESTINA.
Some years ago, in 1889, I think, some notes ap-
peared on this pretty and interesting parasite
which evoked some interest. Since that time the
plants here have travelled about IS feet in a
westerly direction and none are to be found nearer
than this to their old position. They do not
spread themselves about indiscriminately, as all
the tufts appear yearly within a shifting radius of
2 feet. This year there are in all sixteen tufts
composed of from three to thirty crowns, each
crown bearing from ten to fifteen buds, so that
when the deep violet flowers, each as large as, and
something like in general appearance to an ordinary
Crocus, are out, the mass makes a very effective
bit of colour in its setting of grass. It would be
interesting to know of other places besides Kew
and the Botanic Gardens at Cambridge where this
plant thrives, and also what the best means of
propagation may be. Given a proper host and a
knowledge of the best means of procedure in intro-
ducing the seeds upon it, this would seem to be
the proper, if not the only way, as the seeds are
very freely borne. Care in collecting the seeds
would be necessary, as when they are ripe thev
spring from the capsule with great force im-
mediately the latter is touched and are easily
lost. Kerner, in his grand work, "The Natural
History of Plants," which has lately been brought
within the compass of English readers, has de-
voted much space to parasitic plants. Writing of
this plant, he says : —

The seed of Lathra?a germina*es on damp eartb.
The youngroot of the seedling grows at first at the ex-
pense of reserve material stored in ihe seed, penetrates
vertically into the earth and sends out lateral branches,
which, like the main root, follow a serpentine course,
and search in the loose damp earth for a suitable
nutrient substratum. If one of these meets witli a
living root belonging to an Ash, Poplar, Hornbeam,
Hazel, or other angiospermous tree, it fastens on to it
at onee and develops suckers at the point of contact.
. . . . These discoid suckers cling to the roots attached
by means of a viscid substance produced by the outer-
most layer of cells.

not feel quite satisfied that growing the plant
from seed is quite so simple a matter as the above
extract would lead one to suppose, otherwise, from
the thousands of seeds which must have been
widely scattered here during the past eight years,
unless they have been eaten by slugs or other in-
sects, the plant would be more plentiful and have
a wider range, for the conditions are evidently
suitable, the soil is always moist, being at the
bottom of a valley and close to a pond, and full of
the roots of various trees. Eight years ago the
plant was nestling at the foot of a deciduous
Cypress ; near this was a Portugal Laurel as well
as Box bushes. There are also Horse Chestnut,
Elm, Holly, Beech, and other trees near enough to
have extended their roots to the spot. The tree
nearest the parasite at present is a young Sallow
about six years old. Tracing the plant to its host
has been out of the question, as it would mean de-
struction to the Lathnea, but this year one tuft is
so far removed from its neighbours that it may be
possible to trace it home without doing any
damage. J. C. Tallack.

Before reading this I had intended trying what
might be done by inserting seeds in incisions made
in the roots of trees selected as probable hosts,
moist northern positions where they have a cool This would apparently be unnecessary, even if it
bottom during the resting period. The deeper | did not entirely defeat the object in view I do

A SCOTTISH PRIMROSE GARDEN.
When seen in the mass, acres of Primroses, as
they are flowering here at present, are delightful,
the soft ripples of colour flowing over smooth
reaches of lawn, straying over mounds, wimp-
ling in little hollows, or, prcttiestof all, surround-
ing and lapping the bases of grey old Beeches' or
Planes whose boles are covered witli Lichen.
The colours of the flowers are nearly all of soft
shades and white, but, curiously enough, among
the tens of thousands that bloom year by year,
one truly wild form is never seen. There are
indeed yellow flowers in abundance, but none
of the same shade and particularly of the same
form as the native Primrose. The plants, more-
over, are remarkable as being somewhat erratic
in the way they leave one part of the ground
and form fresh colonies in erstwhile bare spots.
Portions that nearly thirty years ago were thickly-
covered are to-day almost bare of plants, and
other places that twenty years back were green
are to-day bright with bloom. Another pecu-
liarity about these Primroses is the scarcity of
large plants. Almost without exception they
are single- crowned, and where clumps of one
colour are established they are apparently
the produce of the seeds contained in one
capsule. I have noticed this peculiarity more
particularly in the case of some plants that were a
dozen or more years ago planted out in a bare
corner. Seedlings from these almost always
appear quite close together in little groups, and
the flowers in each group are nearly always of
the same colour. This would show that these
blooms left to Nature are seldom cross-fertilised,
and it further points to these as a valuable addi-
tion to those flowers we can employ in groups of
one colour, nothing being simpler than raising
Primroses from seed.

How long these semi- wild plants live it is im-
possible to determine, but, judging from the
difficulty of keeping Primroses and Polyanthuses
for any length of time in the garden adjoining,
I believe they are very short-lived. It adds
something to one's interest in these plants that
their origin is involved in obscurity. At the
commencement of the century they were very
numerous, though not so much so as now. The
history of the Tyninghame wilderness, which
these Primroses do so much to beautify, begins
just previous to 1707, when a comparatively
small piece of ground, planted by the third Earl
of Mar about 1037 to 1040, was so far added to
by the celebrated tree planter, the sixth Earl
of HaddiDgton, as to form an enclosure of over
14 acres. The ground was trenched and laid
out in the French style, with a centre, from
which fourteen walks radiated in different

324

THE GARDEN

[Mat 11, 1895.

directions. These were bordered with trimmed
hedges of various kinds of trees, one that sounds
very pretty having been planted with Laburnum
alternately with Mountain Ash. One can imagine
the beauty of the embowering Laburnums in
May and the Mountain Ash in autumn when
gay with fruit. The interspaces between the
alleys were planted with a variety of trees, of
which Beeches and Planes are to-day superior
to any others, though a quarter of a century
after they were planted Elms and Ashes were
growing the most vigorously. There are now
none of the latter, and the Elms are all in a
decaying condition. The lines in Thomson's
" Spring," beginning

At leDglli the finished garden to (he view
Its vistas opens, and its alleys green,

apply with the utmost exactness to what must
have been the general appearance of Tyning-
hame and its surroundings at that time. The
poet was intimate with Lord Binning, having
acted as his tutor, and was most anxious to
dedicate "Spring" to his fellow countryman.
If we then conclude that here indeed was " Yon
mingled wilderness of flowers," the Primroses
of the present day must be direct descendants of
plants first set out 190 years ago.

Fifty odd years after tha wilderness was laid
out great alterations were effected on the
grounds in the near vicinity of the house.
Probably at this period the hedges and alleys
were destroyed and the grounds laid out in the
natural style, and the flowers would begin to
spread. The last of the hedges was not removed
till some thirty years ago, when the trimmed
Lime tree fence enclosing the bowling green
was, on account of old age, grubbed up. Ma-
honia was planted instead, but it did not suc-
ceed, and lately a Yew hedge has been substi-
tuted, which in spite of the dry gravelly nature
of the soil is progressing very favourably.

In addition to Primroses there are innumer-
able bulbous plants, two kinds of which, how-
ever, never flower. There are also a few Cow-
slips, which most unfortunately do not increase.
An interesting feature in connection with semi-
wild bulbous plants is the charming variety
among the seedlings. For example, among
Snowdrops there are kinds of all sizes, ranging
from the tiniest forms to some as large as
Galanthus plicatus. I noticed a variety this
spring with its outer segments increased to six.
Mr. Arnott, to whom I sent a flower, considers
it quite distinct. Then in Daffodils, I lately
picked out over a dozen distinct forms of Nar-
cissus minor, the smallest being even less than
minimus and the largest and finest an improve-
ment on its parent.

Tyninghame. R. P. Brotherston.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Summer PLANTING. — It is impossible to lay down
any hard-and-fast rule as to the arrangements to
be made with summer bedding plants. It some-
times happens that the owner has a taste in
a particular direction which the gardener has to
follow, and even if this is not so, much depends
on the style of the garden, its natural surround-
ings, the size and shape of beds, whether they are
isolated on turf or form part of a geometrical de-
sign, and many other considerations. There are,
however, one or two rules always applicable that
may be noted. In the first place, faulty and in-
congruous mixtures should be avoided, and if a
certain number of mixed beds are required —
whether they consist of two, three, or several
colours — the arrangement requires a considerable
amount of taste. This naturally does not refer to
plants of the same species as seedling Verbenas or
Petunias. Small beds, especially if they are close
together and form part of a complicated design,

should be filled with only one variety, with perhaps
a single plant of graceful habit to relieve the
dwarf carpet. Plants for small beds should also
be on a corresponding^' small scale. Thus, West
Brighton Gem, Surprise, Golden Harry Hieoveror
Manglesi Pelargoniums would be far better than,
say, Lucius or Amaranth, and the Violetta strain
of tufted Pansies better than the Countess of Kin-
tore type. Again, for large beds, if the old-
fashioned plan of a centre block and an edging is
adopted, the latter should be sufficiently wide to
show itself to advantage. A narrow edging or two
separate bands of colour from the centre is a style
of planting not to be commended. I said above,
that a mixture of colours in one bed should be
avoided. This applies to several varieties of simi-
lar height and not to the judicious blending of a
few taller subjects on a dwarf carpet, possibly
when well done one of the most pleasing features
of summer bedding. In the case, for instance, of
tuberous Begonias — free flowering and of vigorous
habit, but with the flower-spike inclined to
droop — they were formerly planted thickly in
order to cover the ground, and under such
conditions there was a natural complaint that
the greater portion of the flowers could not be
seen, and in this case a combination of colour has
been made with advantage by planting the scarlet,
crimson and pink shades thinly on a carpet of
variegated Mesembryanthemum, and the lighter
colours on Sedum Lydium. In beds of larger size
the Fuchsias may be employed as previously
recommended, and similar standard or pyramidal
plants of Ivy-leaved Pelargonium with thedwarfer
Pelargoniums noted above as suitable for small
beds. Also the mingling of flower and foliage is
sometimes very effective. The beautiful variega-
tion of Abutilon marmoratum is seen to the best
advantage on a bed of purple Petunias, and Humea
elegans and Grevillea robusta, to instance two
plants of graceful habit, may be used with many
dwarfer subjects. Before passing from the plant-
ing of large beds it cannot be too strongly enforced
that they should be filled with plants of larger
growth, especially where they are standing alone
on turf. Large beds that occupy a space of say
from 100 square feet to 200 square feet should
never be filled with plants like the ordinary
Pelargonium or Begonia. If it is deemed advis-
able to go in for good blocks of flowering
plants, tall Fuchsias, Marguerites, free-blooming
Cacti and pompon Dahlias, summer flowering
Chrysanthemums and Pentstemons rank among
the best plants for the purpose. It mav, however,
be added that in the case especially of larger beds,
herbaceous plants of strong vigorous habit and a
well - sustained flowering season are the more
suitable.

Mixed beds have increased rapidly in favour, un-
til now they may be found to predominate in many
flower garden arrangements. In connection with
such beds it may be noted that they form an in-
teresting feature when well planted, but are very
objectionable if the planting of them is left until
the stock is nearly exhausted, and they are then
filled thickly with a lot of odds and ends that
crowd one upon the other so soon as they begin to
grow, so that there is no proper development of
individual plants or a general tone of harmony to
the bed as a whole. Having decided on the
character of mixed beds, it is well to plant first
thinly those things that are to be the leading
feature, and afterwards to till in with others
that will associate well with them. Scented
Pelargoniums in variety that make a comparatively
poor show from a flowering standpoint, but which
are often very useful for cutting, through the sum-
mer months, may form the groundwork of one or
more mixed beds, and the majority of them will
grow into bushy plants of large size if sufficient
room is allowed at planting time. The best of the
annuals, as Stocks, Asters, and Zinnias, are some-
times used to fill up such beds as are under con-
sideration, but the practice is hardly to be recom-
mended and is apt to lead to a very incongruous
mixture. Writing of annuals reminds one that
where they were sown in box or frame with the
view that they should presently occupy a some-

what prominent position in the garden, they
should be pricked off as soon as they can be
bandied with the idea of securing good plants.
As this month will be a busy one in all flower
gardens where bedding plants still predominate,
it is advisable to push forward at the present time
any work that can be done. East Lothian
Stocks, for instance, that have been wintered in
frames can be planted at any time, and if theetock
is somewhat limited owing to the severe weather
in February, they may occupy portions of beds to
be presently filled by the spring-sown Ten-week.
Any arrangements into which hardy plants enter
may, so far as these are concerned, be pushed
forward — plants, for instance, like the silvery
Veronica, the variegated Grasses, and the like.
A broad edging of one of the larger Grasses, the
striped Digraphis, associates well either with an-
other hardy plant, as Fuchsia gracilis or with
Dahlia Fire King. It has, however, a Couch-like
propensity for spreading and should not be intro-
duced among plants of dwarf or tender habit. No
mention of hardy plants, especially at this season,
seems complete without a little note as to tufted
Pansies ; they are coming out fast now. The
weather experienced in February which was re-
sponsible for keeping them back has altered their
respective seasons, or rather all are coming into
flower simultaneously. There are no specially
early-flowering varieties this year.

Claremont. E. Burrele.

Garden Flora.

plate 1013.

the australian lilies.

(WITH A COLOURED PLATE OF BLAXPFORDIA

FLAMMEA VAR. PBINOEPS, B. NOISIUS AND B.

MARlilNATA.*)

Whilst many good old plant growers are re-
gretting the gradually lessening interest taken
in the culture of New Holland plants in general,
that of the Blandfordias also appears to be in
the same danger of being overlooked. More
skill is needed to produce a healthy example of
a New Holland hard-wooded plant than obtains
in very many instances of present day favourites,
and the same thing applies to the genus now in
question, but surely this should not in any way
act as a deterrent to their culture. It should
rather be an inducement to plant lovers to enter
into their cultivation with zest so as to over-
come any apparent difficulty. One essential,
and that a primary one, is a light greenhouse or
pit in which to grow Blandfordias, wherein a
free circulation of air without exposure to cold
currents can be maintained ; an ash bottom from
which some amount of moisture arises is also
no small consideration, but overcrowding or
overshadowing by larger plants should be
studiously avoided. Two means of propagation
are available, that of raising seedlings and that
by offsets ; the latter is the course usually
adopted, but it must not be repeated too fre-
quently or be done in too severe a fashion. Per-
sonally 1 much prefer to grow the Blandfordias
in nearly all peat to peat and loam in more
equal parts. Peat seems to be more congenial
to them, but, as in the case of hard-wooded
plants, it should be made quite firm ; charcoal
is a good addition when the peat is disposed to
be at all spongy ; sand should in any case be
freely used. Potting should be done early in
the spring or soon after flowering, but care
must be taken not to overpot in the slightest
degree. Rather than let them dry off abso-
lutely, I prefer to see some symptoms of leaf
growth remaining ; the process of drying off too

* Drawn for The Garden by Mrs. Rowan. Litho-
graphed and printed by Guillaurne Severeyns.

-«C <3

II

<dt*

May 11, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

325

severely will often cause injury. It is sur-
prising that such beautiful plants as these are
not more admired than they are. Those kinds
figured in the accompanying coloured plate re-
present three quite distinct varieties or species.
B. flammea var. princeps is undoubtedly the
finest kind in cultivation ; it is a truly noble-
flowering plant ; the other two are very distinct.
Two other species are specially worthy of note,
viz. , B. aurea and B. Cunninghami, and to make
up half-a-dozen, B. flammea would be a good
addition. It should be added, in conclusion,
that the habit of growth and the appearance
when in flower are all that one could wish.

Plantsman.

The Week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.
Hand-light Cauliflowers. — On early borders the
first batches of these will now be so forward that
removal of the hand-lights will be necessary, the
latter now coming in useful for placing over Vege-
table Marrows or similar tender subjects. Pre-
suming that the number of plants was reduced
as advised some time ago to three in each light,
these will now require steadying by placing
some fine loamy soil around the base of each, firm-
ing the same with the hands to keep the plants
in an upright position and to prevent them from
swaying in windy weather. Previous to earthing
up, however, I would advise giving a good sprink-
ling of some quick-acting fertiliser, guano for
instance. This will often have the eflect of
inducing a rapid growth and save the plants
from buttoning prematurely. Indeed, the same
remark applies with equal force to the younger
spring-planted lots of this vegetable, as cold east
winds have given them a severe check this season.

Earliest Brussels Spbouts.— These sown in
February and gradually hardened oil' after being
pricked out into boxes or frames will be in a fit
condition for planting now. Select a plot which
has been dug for some time and has become some-
what consolidated, as if the plants are put into
loose, newly turned soil an unsatisfactory growth
will probably follow, with the result that instead
of hard knobs forming in September and October,
Cabbage-like offsets will form the whole length of
the stems. Be the ground ever so firm it will,
unless clayey, be benefited by treading before
putting in the plants. If the plot has now to be
prepared, it will be best to refrain from the use of
very rich manure for this early crop, this also pro-
ducing the evil above referred to. Mushroom
manure is very suitable : then if the summer is
hot and dry, manure water can be given when the
plants are in full growth. Allow plenty of room
between the plants and rows for the ingress of
light and a free circulation of air, plant with a
trowel and firm well. On light soils it may be
advisable to also water the plants, and a watch
must be kept in wooded districts, as wood pigeons
sometimes do much damage to these early green
crops. Before planting, draw out a moderately
deep drill, such holding the moisture about the
roots. On strong soils, however, planting on the
level is advisable. Seedlings in the open now-
well above ground should be freely thinned
out ; and if covered with netting as a protection
against chaffinches, the best way is to remove this,
thin out the seedlings, and replace the net for a
time, as these pests will often pull up the young
plants from sheer mischief after they have grown
an inch. The same remark applies to Turnips.

Asparagus. — In forward localities cutting will
now have become general Some judgment is
needed in this work, as if the knife is thrust too
deeply down, the crowns are much injured and
future supplies lessened. It is often necessary in
warm weather to go over the beds twice daily, in
early morning and again in the evening, as the
grass soon runs up, and if not cut, opens at the
tip, which does not improve either its appearance

or flavour. In regard to storing it until wanted
for use, the best way is to place damp Moss in the
bottom of a large pan or earthen vessel, and after
bunching up the Asparagus not too tightly, to
place it on the Moss : this will supply it with
sufficient moisture. When placed in water and
kept for some days it absorbs too much moisture,
and mould is very liable to set in. A cool, dark
place is the best. Where blanched Asparagus
finds favour the stools should now be covered with
some light material, such as leaf-mould, cocoa-nut
fibre, or fine soil. This should be arranged in the
form of a mound, about a foot in depth ; the As-
paragus will push up through this, and when the
pink tips protrude through it should be cut before
it loses its colour. If a broadcast sprinkling of
artificial manure was given when the beds were
cleaned and surface-stirred, another may now
follow, in showery weather. Beware of cutting
young beds too hard, as nothing is more ruin-
ous than this practice. Indeed, the same may
be said of established beds. A little assistance
may now be given to plants that were put out in
March, this also having the effect of keeping the
roots near the surface.

Earliest Celery. — Where an extra early sup-
ply of Celery is expected, from the first to the
second week in the month will be a good time for
removing properly hardened off plants of Sandring-
ham or Early Rose into the trenches. If the
latter were prepared as advised some time ago
the soil in the bottom will not need treading, but
if the preparation has been postponed till now
firming will be necessary. Allow plenty of room
between the plants, and be sure that they are
well watered the day previous to lifting from
frames or boxes, or much of the soil will fall
from the balls, which is an evil. In exposed gar-
dens it will be necessary to screen the tender
foliage from cutting winds by means of a few
Yew boughs stuck here and there in the trenches.
Where the soil is light and at all inclined to be dry,
watering as soon as transplanting is completed will
be necessary, but not on strong land. If any
suckers cluster around the baBO of the plants they
must be removed ; and if possible select a dull,
quiet day for planting. This last remark applies
to all subjects possessing delicate fibrous roots, a
few plants only being lifted at a time. The later
crops of Celery must be attended to in regard to
pricking off, and if cool frames are not at com-
mand, any odd sheltered nook or corner will
answer well, giving the roots a good larder and
affording some kind of shelter in bad weather.
Plants brought on in this way often do better as
a main crop, and are less subject to bolting in
autumn than are those which are rooted in more
heat or on hotbeds. The great point to be ob-
served with heat-raised plants is to remove them
to cool quarters directly the seedling? appeal-
through the soil, and to thin out rigorously im-
mediately they can be handled. It is not yet too
late to sow seed where there is plenty of spare
ground, as even if time cannot be given to blanch-
ing, the plants can be used for soups and flavour-
ing generally, and thus the main crop saved for
more important uses. For this purpose Leicester
Red is as hardy and good as any.

French Beans in the open. — A few rows of
some hardy variety may now be sown on a warm
south border. Where this is not available sowing
should yet be postponed for a fortnight. I prefer
Syon House or Ne Plus Ultra for first sowing out
of doors. Some recommend Canadian Wonder,
but this is so apt to decay if the weather is at all
showery and the soil not of the lightest. In sow-
ing, place if possible some light potting soil or
similar compost in the drills, which must be
shallow. Two inches deep will be quite sufficient,
as a little soil can easily be drawn up to the
plants when a few inches high. Sow plenty of
seed at this date, and also some extra in a warm
corner, in order that any blanks which occur may
be made up. Nothing gets cleared off sooner by
slugs or snails ; therefore the moment growth
appears, a good dusting of lime, or soot and wood
ashes must be given. In a fortnight sow Canadian
Wonder for succession.

Forced vegetables.— Potatoes in pitsor frames
now ready for use must have the lights tilted over
them continually, as if exposed to heavy rains a
secondary growth is liable to take place, this
drawing the flavour out of the first tubers. No
more water will be needed at theroots. Later plant-
ings coming on under frame protection must be
well nourished to secure normal-sized tubers. In
showery weather, if warm, remove the lights en
tirely by day, replacing them again at eventide.
This saves a deal of labour, and is of more benefit
than all artificial waterings. Peas now podding
in frames will be benefited first by a sprinkling
of artificial manure, and afterwards by a mulch
of spent Mushroom manure. The same may be
said of Carrots.

Shallots. — Rows of these now in active growth
must be examined, as frequently worms throw
the bulbs clean out of the ground, especially on
light soils. Replace the bulbs and firmly tread
the soil, afterwards applying a good mulch of
rich manure. Nothing pays better for good
cultivation than Shallots. J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.
Fruiting Pines. — The favourable weather during
the latter part of April will have brought forward
the fruiting plants rapidly, and with plenty of
sunshine the forward Queens will be swelling
freely, and a few fruioe colouring. Moisture
at the roots and manure may be given liberally,
few manures being equal to guano given in water
a little warmer than the bottom heat temperature,
using rain water when it can be obtained, and
the guano well mixed. Guano may with ad-
vantage be mixed with water and placed in the
evaporating pans, as this will assist swelling.
Temperatures may now range from 75° to 80° dur-
ing the day, giving air when the maximum is
reached and closing early in the afternoon to allow
the thermometer to run up to 90° or 95°. With
mild night9 the house may be kept at 75', with 5'
less in cold, windy weather. To maintain a
healthy growth, the house should be freely
syringed, the walls, floors, and paths being kept
moist, but avoid too much moisture over the
plants, especially in dull weather. The bottom
heat for fruiting plants should not fall below
85°, and though it -is well to utilise the sun-heat as
much as possible, if the bottom heat is checked
the fruits will not finish well. Plants of Smooth
Cayenne, Rothschild, and other late kinds for
fruiting in the autumn, and which are failing to
show fruit, should be kept drier at the roots.
The cultural notes advised above for Queens do
not apply to these plants, as if allowed to grow too
freely a check may be necessary for a short time.
If kept drier at the roots and cooler for a few
weeks fruit will soon show, but extremes must be
avoided. Plants of the late kinds named showing
fruit should get liberal treatment as advised for
Queens, and as soon as the fruits show colour
give more moisture and a growing temperature,
removing the plants into their fruiting quarters,
as it is not well to retard them when the plants
are showing freely. Early plants with fruits col-
ouring should have less moisture and food as the
final stage is reached. If the suckers at the base
of fruiting plants are numerous, it is well to thin
freely ; this assists the fruit, and the suckers left
make much better material for potting up later on.
Succession plants. — These will now need liberal
treatment, and if potted-up as previously advised,
the plants will now be making a sturdy top
growth and will have made new roots freely.
Night temperatures may now range from 65° to 70°,
the maximum in mild weather, and HI" higher
by day in favourable weather, 75° being high
enough if the weather be wet or sunless. High
temperatures or excess of moisture will cause a
weak growth. A free circulation of air during
the day will promote the short leaf growth so
desirable. Damp over all parts of the house at
closing time, the plants being lightly dewed over-
head. Manure water should not be given till the
newly-potted plants have filled their pots with
roots, but a genial atmosphere may be maintained

326

THE GARDEN

May 11, 1895.

by the use of liquid manure in the evaporating
pans. With the houses large or much exposed,
shad ing the plants will soon be necessary. It is
well to use a temporary shade, as the plants suffer
when much shaded in dull weather. Scrim canvas
or tiffany on a roller answers well, as this is so
readily removed, and it is only required during the
hottest part of the day. Some of last year's
plants may not have required repotting when the
plants were overhauled in March, but these should
now receive a shift, as during the winter the
soil becomes sour if not full of roots. The
materials previously advised will still do ; water
sparingly for a time, giving the newly-potted
plants a genial bottom heat, and shade till well
established. Small plants during the summer
months are often grown in frames, and they thrive
well in such structures if there is a bottom heat of
70° or 80°. Excess of moisture in frames must be
guarded against, as the temperature fluctuates
more in frames, little water being required in
damp weather. With the early Queens ripening
there will be some good strong suckers for potting
up, and to make room for these some of the
strongest plants may be placed in a warmer house.
Thus treated there will be a good succession, and
in private gardens this is preferred to a glut at
one time. The temperature for what may be
termed the small plants should be 65' to 70° by
day, according to the weather.

Melons — early fruits. — On pot plants, or those
in restricted borders, the fruit will now be
colouring, and need careful treatment to get
flavour. During the final swelling it is well to feed
liberally, but this must cease when the fruits are
well netted. It will soon be seen when growth
is complete by the way the fruits net, and if
given too much moisture they soon crack badly.
The weather now is most favourable for the
growth of these plants, and during the day
very little fire-heat will be necessary ; but it is
well to keep the pipes warm during the day, as
this allows of freely airing the plants — a great
aid to flavour. Later plants need less air and
plenty of warmth, a temperature of 70° by night
and 10° higher by day, allowing the temperature
to run up to 90° at closing time. Syringe freely
all parts of the house. Top-dressings with richer
soil will also be necessary, but the stems of the
plants must be kept clear at the collar to prevent
damping. Make the new material firm, keep the
stems as dry as possible when syringing, and
water frequently with liquid manure as growth
increases. Should canker appear, as it often does
after a spell of sunless weather, dress the affected
parts with freshly slaked lime and powdered char-
coal, keeping tne plants drier for a few days,
and admitting more air.

Melons in pits. — At this season preparations may
be made to plant in pits or frames, and though
the best results may be obtained from heated
pits, with care excellent Melons may be grown
in cold frames, or even movable ones, on a bed of
hot manure. Bottom heat in any case is desirable,
but not a necessity. I have grown good-flavoured
fruits on a hard, coal-ash bottom, with a barrow-
load of soil for the plants, placing a couple of
plants in each light ; but more care and less mois-
ture are necessary. The start must be with sturdy
clean plants raised in houses or warm frames
close to the glass and planted out of the seed-pot,
making the soil firm round the roots. For frame
culture I do not advise the poor soil often recom-
mended, as without heat, growth is none too
robust, and quick growth is essential to get fruit
of good quality. Loam mixed with bone-meal
will be a good compost, and should the soil be far
away from the sashes, it is an easy matter to make
a trellis and train the plants close to the glass.
Melons planted on manure beds often fail to set
owing to their gross growth, the roots going
down into the rich food. To prevent that, it is a
good plan when making the bed to insert a large
pot on slates or tiles, which will prevent deep
rooting and cause short-jointed wood, earlier set-
ting, and better finish. Good will be done if only
flat slates are placed under the plants before add-
ing the soil to prevent the roots striking down-

wards. The temperature in pits varies, but much
may be done to maintain an equable one by
covering the glass at night, shutting up early in
the afternoon, and keeping the lateral growth
thin. Moisture should be freelv given in fine
weather, but early, to allow the plants to dry by
sunset. When damping down, thoroughly moisten
the surface soil, as the sudden changes of tempe-
rature encourage green-fly ; whereas a moist soil
and surroundings are not congenial to it. Allow
each plant to go a fair distance before stopping,
but stop lateral growth at the second joint and
set the first blooms if possible.

Orchard house. — If at all forced, the fruits in
this house will be swelling freely, and will require
unlimited supplies of water and food also if the
pots are full of roots. It is a good plan at this
season to liberally top-dress plants heavily laden
with fruit or foliage, this being a great saving of
labour, whilst the roots benefit greatly. Plants
approaching the ripening stage must only get
pure water, as food now will spoil the
quality of the fruit, and in damping overhead use
rain water or water free of lime, as the fruits
soon show lime deposits. More air and less at-
mospheric moisture must be given as the fruits
colour, and the leaves when covering the fruit
should be removed or the shoots given a tie to
allow the light to reach the fruit. Later trees in
mixed houses will need copious supplies of water
and liquid manure, syringing freely and airing
early in the day. In case red spider or fly should
appear, fumigate several nights in succession,
syringing freely the next morning. Thin fruits
severely when needed, pay daily attention to
stopping, and with ample supplies of food there
will be no fear of the fruits dropping after this
date. G. Wythes.

GARDEN SKETCHES.

Chapter XI.

Only so far as the masters of the world

Have called in Nature to their need

Can they reach the height of magnificence.

Emeuson.

October 7. — Chill October is with us, but there
is neither chill nor damp. A second drought
has fallen on the garden, and week after week
of sunshine without moisture has left the ground
dry as dust, and the plants parched and many
of them drooping, but let us for a moment look
away from the suffering plants and raise our
eyes to the glory that has flowed over the
valley before us. In amber, crimson, and gold
the trees are clad. If cloudless skies have made
the blossoms fewer, the trees have been touched
to richer hue, and the scattered woodlands pass
in undulating lines of colour as far as the eye
can see. To-day the hills in shadow are blue as
indigo, only the bold projections are soft grey,
with here and there a flush that one knows
must be the red-brown Bracken. In the garden
one can quickly single out the sun worshippers.
Cytisus racemosus in freshest green is coming
into blossom. Berberis Darwini has sprays
covered with a second bloom. Some plants of
Salvia, only a few inches high when planted
out of doors, have grown into large bushes, with
their pink flowering branches tumbling about
on every side. Hypericum Moserianum, also
planted in spring, has grown well, and is now
covered with blossoms. The thick substance of
the petals makes them look like solid gold, while
the stamens rise like a coloured crown in the
centre of the blossom. It is indeed a gem
among Hypericums. Several beds of East
Lothian Stock planted out in June have, to my
disappointment, commenced to flower now in-
stead of waiting for the early days of spring.
Wallflowers are dwarf and sturdy, so they are
safe not to blossom until the new year.

The fountain garden has suffered especially
from want of rain, as the wide-branched Syca-

more tree sucks up the moisture all around.
The scarlet Geraniums are the only perfectly-
happy plants at present. They have never been
so splendid, with trusses some 7 inches across
and deep green healthy foliage. All the needed
cuttings were taken from them a month ago, so-
that the line fresh growth has all been made
under a burning sun and in ground parched
hard and dry. The Verbenas seem likewise to
revel in the dry heat, and are a mass of blossom.
The Pyre thrums are fresh and healthy, and
coming into a second bloom. Carnations have
thriven well ; the fresh soil appears to have
restored them, and they do not seem to have
suffered in any way from want of moisture. On
the other hand, the bed of Lobelia fulgens is-
pitiful to see, with drooping and yellow leaves,
and the white Chrysanthemums in the centre
are poor and shrivelled. The yellow bed of
J. Wermig Chrysanthemum, Rudbeckia New-
mani, and Calceolaria amplexicaulis is worst of
all, being nearly burnt up. The loss of this
sulphur-yellow Calceolaria makes quite a blank
in the little garden. Its blossoms were especi-
ally bright and cheerful in autumn days, lasting
fresh until the first severe frost, and its growth
free and graceful. This Calceolaria is a native
of Peru, from whence it was introduced in the
year 1845, and was much prized before the
formal bedding-out system pushed it aside as-
too irregular in growth. The crimson Fuchsias-
are poor and stunted in leaf and blossom, and
the pink Hepaticas that border the bed are not
distinguishable from the ground itself. The
leafage of the Hellebores has been greatly in-
jured ; at least one half of the leaves has been
turned brown, and must now be cut off, being
too unsightly. It is just one of those rough
bits in the path of " gardening " that one cannot
tread across without aching feet. The flowers
abk, and we cannot give. They suffer, and we
are powerless to help, for the water supply has
run short for human beings, and so must be
denied to plant life.

October 23. — Russet leaves beneath our feet,
crisp and dry and crumpling as we pass along,
tell us that the leafy banners have fallen. But
they have still their mission to fulfil. Gathered
and stored together until they decay, they be-
come most valuable as a quickening, revivify-
ing force to plant life, and though for the
moment crushed under our passing tread, they
shall live again and wave above us. The
autumn leaf-collecting is very important, and
being the natural nianurial stimulant for plants,
is the most fitted for many choice flowers. A
pit into which they can be thrown as gathered
hastens their decay, keeping them damp when
rain falls, and the whole heap can be turned
over in spring, which will still further assist in
their decay.

Some showers have at last visited us, so that
the earth's surface at least is damped, and ver-
dure is returning to the lawn where a few Daisies
have ventured to uplift their heads. The Star-
worts, with all their soft shades of purple, lilac,
lavender, and dusky blue set among the gold
and russet hues of changing leaves, are an
October garden in themselves, but this autumn
they are very poor compared with other sea-
sons. Sun they must have overhead, but mois-
ture at the root they seem to demand equally,
their mass of fibrous rootlets exhausting the
surrounding ground very rapidly.

The Arum Lilies have just been lifted. They
were planted out in the garden in rich soil
during the month of June. Fresh fibrous
loam mixed with some leaf - mould and a
little peat has been used to repot them
in. Last year I added some old manure,
but found that their leaves constantly turned

May 11, 1835.]

THE GARDEN

327

yellow. When in full growth, manure water
and Boot water may be used with advantage.
These Lilies of the Nile, growing naturally in
water, must be always well supplied with it.
Planted in a pond they will live out of doors all
winter, although in the open ground they will
not survive unless in very favoured localities.
The Daturas, which were likewise planted out
during summer, have also just been potted.
Though killed to the ground by winter frosts,
they will spring up again from the roots, but
these young shoots are so long in coming into
blossom, that I find it better to lift the plants
and keep them in tin- greenhouse during winter,
so that they will come quickly into flower when
planted out in summer. Sparmannia africana,
sunk in a put, is still in blossom in the rock
garden, but will be brought indoors on the first
appearance of frost.

The beauty of the Begonias being over, they
have been taken up and stored away in a box
filled with the soil in which they were growing.
Their stems will gradually wither away, and
then they can be packed in sand, neither too dry
nor too moist, and placed out of the reach of
frost.

Now is the time to look around and note any
alteration u> be made, or plants to be divided or
removed. While the ground is yet warm, plants
root quickly in their new quarters and have time
to become established before the frost of winter.
The end of September is generally the best
season for planting, but this year it was at that
time too hot and dry.

Flowers for cutting are at present so scarce
because of the drought, that one is glad to use
leaves and berries for indoor decoration. Tha
wild Rose heps from the hedges, with the
tinted foliage of Bramble sprays, make a fine
group, and the fading leaves of Strawberries,
as they change to crimson, afford a rich setting
for the white Chrysanthemum Daisies. In the
arrangement of flowers how often do we see
them overcrowded to such a degree, that all
their distinctive character and beauty of line
and curve are lost. In arranging flowers the
chief thing is simplicity and freedom, combined
with balance and harmony. In Nature, sym-
metry is rarely or ever met with, but every-
where, whether it be in the lines of a mountain
or in the curved petals of a Lily, harmony and
proportion are to be found. In usi"g the word
" flower :' we are apt to think only of the blossom
itself, but in floral compositions the word ought
to be understood in its wider sense of the
flower-clad steins of plants, or flowering branches
of trees. We must remember that each plant
has its own special message of beauty to deliver,
and if we over-fill our vases this message is
lost, or never uttered, in the intricacy of
overcrowding. If one takes away from a
flower the elegance of its stem and fine
curvature of its leafage, we rob it of half
its beauty, for the flowers, as we have learnt
from Ruskin, are but "the leaves in bridal ar-
ray." Therefore, in arranging flowers, we should
be so sensitive to the delicate display of their
exquisite proportions, that sucli a thing as cut-
ting their stalks all the same length to make
them look even, or filling in blossoms to prevent
a vacant space, would be impossible. Flowers
should always be cut with a length of stem suffi-
cient to show the habit of growth, and a few such
sprays placed in a jar or simple glass vessel will
have a far more attractive effect in a room than
many times the amount of flowers with short stalks
all crowded together. Blossoms should, if pos-
sible, always be associated with their own foliage.
For instance, a vase full of Carnations mixed
with their own blue grass is twice as beautiful
as when the leaves of any other plant are sub-

stituted. A group of blossoms of one kind, such
as Roses in an old china bowl or Lilies in a vase,
are always delightful, but two or even three dif-
ferent kinds will assort well together. After that
a greater mixture loses its power, and takes
away from the sense of repose which true beauty
always suggests. The simpler the form of the
flower glass the better, and plain glass is best of
all, because of the reflected lights and shadows
which the flower-stems afford in clear water.
Large pottery .jars of excellent form can now be
procured at little cost, and these may be deco-
rated at home with some Greek tracery or other
design in black, or they can be painted black
and the design left in the original colour of the
jar by stencilling. These jars with a vessel full
of water placed inside are admirable where a
large display of flowers is desired, as they allow
scope for length of branches. It is not, of course,
everyone who can find flowers j list suited for these
large jars, but those who possess old gardens
will generally have wherewith to compose beau-
tiful floral pictures. Nothing I have found more
lovely in them than branches of Apple blossom
cut some 4 feet or 5 feet long, and it will not
really harm an old Apple tree now and again to
thin out of it a long flowering spray. If we
have not Apple trees, branches of the Black
Thorn with their white blossoms can perhaps
be cut from a country hedgerow or wild bank
in some springtide ramble. While yet earlier
in the season, branches of the Willow can be
found with silvery catkins so lovely, that no
painter's brush can ever tell their story.

There is no doubt much of " fashion " in the
decorative use of flowers, but we must ever re-
member that above all fashion reign in im-
mutable calm, the everlasting laws of colour, of
harmony, and of form, and if we will only think
for ourselves, if we will only be fearless, and
not have and do things because others have
and do them, but instead choose and seek and
do, because of beauty and of fitness, then our
gardens and our houses will lie a delight and
interest to others as well as to ourselves, since
they will express our own individuality, that
ego with which we are all endowed, and that
makes us distinctive from each of our fellow-
beings, and which, as a divine gift, it should be
our endeavour to develop to the utmost.

L. A. L.

(To be continued.)

THE ROCK GARDEN.
VI.
ArRiL 23. — Copious rain after genial sunshine
during the past week has stimulated the growth
of all alpine plants, and rock gardens every-
where are donning their best spring garb. I
have noticed a large number of rock plants
expanding their blossoms during the past week
not only here, but in various parts of this
county (Devon). The time of blooming is a
most important matter, especially for those
selecting the material wherewith their rock
gardens are to be embellished. We may
furnish our rock gardens with many choice and
rare plants, and yet we may not be successful
in forming a pleasing picture, because flowers
which are open at the same time are kept too
far apart to form a harmonious combination.
With the desire of assisting others, I will,
therefore, mention the best of such rock
plants as were and are blooming together
during the past and the present week (third
and fourth week in April) as far as such plants
have come under my own observation. Most
of the plants mentioned are growing here in
Exeter, others at Barnstaple (North Devon),

and some at Newton Abbot and Torquay
(South Devon).

Fit Companions Blooming Simultaneously.

A Select Corxek. — Androsace pyrenaica,
A. Laggeri, A. carnea, A. Chumbyi, A. Chamte-
jasme, A. arachnoidea, A. villosa. All these
gems are now in bloom here and might well
be grouped together in the rock garden. They
certainly deserve a select corner to themselves,
and mostly on a rock so raised as to be near
the eye, for otherwise much of their charm
would be lost. Androsace pyrenaica, for instance,
is not a plant for distant effect, but requires
the closest observation to be fully appre-
ciated. The tiny white flowers are perhaps
less than a quarter of an inch in diameter,
and nestle on a compact cushion of diminu-
tive leaves. It grows slowly, but is most
desirable. I find it succeeds best in a sloping
position and in very stony soil. Androsace
Laggeri with its pretty pink flowers does best on
the half shady side ; its moss-like growth is very
pretty even when not in bloom. The white-
flowering Androsace villosa should be planted
sideways in a vertical fissure on the sunny side.
The rare Androsace arachnoidea, which is also
now in bloom, requires a similar position. It
resembles A. villosa, but has larger flowers and
is more hairy than the former. Androsace
Chamsejasme, which also has white flowers, does
very well on less sloping ground if well
surrounded by small broken stones. Androsace
Chumbyi requires a sunny position, where it
can grow downwards and hang over the stones.
It resembles A. aarmentosa, but is of slower
growth and its flowers are a deep rosy purple
instead of pale mauve. It is also earlier in
bloom than A. sarinentosa, which latter is
scarcely showing its buds as yet. Androsace
carnea I mentioned in my notes of last week,
but it is still looking gay with its pink blossoms,
and might well be associated with the other
kinds just mentioned.

Primulas are blooming abundantly this
week. In North Devon 1 noticed the rosy
purple Primula viscosa doing well in a sloping
p« isition on a half shady rock ; also the pure
white P. nivalis and the bright crimson P. rosea.
The latter looks most effective in masses, and
should always be planted in very moist ground
fully exposed to the sun. Primula platypetala
is a double and very bright purple form of P.
acaulis. It has here for several years past occu-
pied a shady position, and flowers well every
year. Primula farinosa (also now in bloom)
prefers a moist and sunny position. Other
Primulas flowering this week in a half-shady
position are the bright golden yellow Primula
Auricula, the purple P. marginata, P. calycina,
with rosy purple flowers, and P. integrifolia,
which with its glossy leaves and bright purple
blossoms is very striking. Primula Sieboldi
does well here ; it was planted in a shady posi •
tion some two years ago, but seeded itself on the
sunny side of the rock, where a fine batch is
now in full bloom, while the plants on the
shady side are less advanced.

Saxifrages. — The earliest kinds, such as
Saxifraga oppositifolia, S. apiculata, and S.
sancta, are now past ; but that little gem S.
Boydi is still in bloom. One of the choicest
kinds which has opened this week is the true
form of Saxifraga luteo-viridis (Schott. et Kot.),
with its deep yellow corolla almost enclosed in
a greenish cup-like calyx. This should be
planted sideways into an upright fissure exposed
to the sun. Saxifraga Rochelliana, with its
small silvery rosettes and corymbs of white
flowers, is now at its best, and deserves a good
place. Two very neat plants of the mossy sec-

'8

THE GARDEN

[May 11, 1895.

tion are also in bloom, viz., the delicate pink
S. Rhei and the deeper coloured S. atro-
purpurea. Larger kinds with white flowers now
blooming on a sunny slope are S. muscoides
and S. aromatica.

Shade-lovino Plants now in Bloom.

Dog's-tooth Violets with their rosy flowers
and Farge spotted leaves are a special attrac-
tion. In a rock garden in a southern part of
this county I noticed a particularly tine form
called Alexander von Humboldt with bright
pink flowers larger than usual. In the rougher
portion and beneath the shade of trees the
bright yellow Epimedium pinnatum and the
pink Epimedium roseum are looking well.
Anemones of the A. nemorosa type are also in
bloom, most conspicuous amongst them being
the charming blue Anemone Robinsoniana.
Delightful plants now blooming at Exeter
in a prominent but shady position are
Rhodothamnus Chanuecistus, scarcely 3 inches
high, with trusses of large pink flowers, and
the American Houstonia serpyllifolia, with deep
blue flowers, very distinct and far superior to
the paler blue Houstonia cierulea. The white
form (Houstonia ccerulea alba) is also now in
bloom. The Houstonias require a moist,
spongy soil, and succeed well in the shade of a
rock.

A Sunny Corner.

Draba aizoides and D. Aizoon are past, but
the distinct and pretty Draba brunisefolia is
still in bloom ; it forms a mossy carpet which
sets off the bright golden yellow flowers to
great advantage. Gentiana Clusii has opened
its large deep blue flowers, and Gentiana verna,
in a rather dry, sunny position, is nearly past,
but in a moister place on the same rockwork the
buds look stronger and are only just beginning
to open. Euphorbia capitata has its bright
yellow flowers fully expanded, and is doing
well in a sloping position. A similar place has
been assigned to Veronica telephifolia, which
with its pale blue flowers and glaucous foliage
is very charming. Cerastium lanatum villosum
is a very different; thing from the common C.
tomentosum ; it grows but slowly and loves a
dry position, where its white flowers are now
fully expanded. A very handsome plant bloom-
ing on an exposed, but level spot is Roman -
zoflia sitchensis ; the orbicular deeply-lobed
leaves have an almost wax-like appearance, and
the white flowers look very attractive. Ra-
nunculus montanus is a somewhat larger plant,
which does well in ordinary soil at the foot of a
rock ; it grows about G inches high and has
large deep yellow flowers.

Carpeting Plants in Bloom.

The following plants now flowering are too
well known to need any further comment.
They are best adapted for the rougher part of
the rock garden, where by their somewhat
rapid growth they could not endanger the
smaller and choicer kinds. Arabis albida, A.
lucida, Aubrietias,Schivereckia podolica (white),
Hutchinsia alpina (white), Alyssum saxatile,
Cardaniine trifoliata (white), and the deep blue
Lithospermum prostratum are now all in bloom.
The last has, unfortunately, suffered severely in
most places during the past winter.

Medium-sized Plants now Blooming.

The following might well be introduced in
prominent places between and at some distance
from the rocks reserved for the smaller and
choicer kinds : Dielytra eximia, Arnebia echi-
oides, the well-known Prophet's Flower, Wald-
steinia trifoliata, W. fragarioides, Caltha palus-

tris flore-pleno (the double Marsh Marigold),
Corydalis ochroleuca, and Geum aureum. With
the exception of Dielytra all these are yellow,
and in arranging them care should be taken
to introduce them between groups of plants
whose colours would blend harmoniously.
Exeter. F. W. Meyer.

{To he continued.)

DAFFODILS AS CUT FLOWERS.
As in the case of other flowers, when there
happens to be a profusion of bloom there is in
that of the Daffodil also the same danger of
overcrowding taking place. Surely no better
example of the beautiful is needed than is pro-
vided in the natural growth of these pleasing
spring flowers, the foliage, in combination with
the blossoms, affording an example of what to
adopt when arranging the cut blooms. When
growing and in flower the foliage and the

blossoms still upon the plant ; but invariably
the colour is slightly better unless shading is
adopted, as in the case of the florist's Tulip.
Regarding the use of the foliage, it may lie urged
that to cut it largely would weaken the bulbs,
but it may be taken a leaf here and a leaf there,
so as not to make any perceptible difference ;
or where a good stock of the common Daffodil
exists, its foliage can be taken in preference.
To mix the different types is not so desirable
as that of keeping them separate, nor is it in good
taste to mix the siDgle with the double varieties.
For instance, poeticus ornatus, although so beau-
tiful by itself, is quite out of place with the
common Daffodil, or with such as Emperor and
Empress. Use these two latter kinds, however,
in combination, and a charming effect is pro-
duced. At least four divisions can be made in
this direction, each being kept to itself — viz.,
those with large trumpets, as Emperor and
Horsfieldi ; those with medium trumpets, as
the Barri, Leedsi and incomparabilis forms ;

Daffodils in a vase.

blossom seem to be, as they really are, quite
indispensable the one to the other. Let this be
imitated, then, as nearly as possible when dis-
posing of the cut blooms, and afterwards, if
need be, compare the natural style with the
opposite or unuatural by massing the flowers
something in the same manner as they are sent
to market in bunches, with which it is a rare
occurrence for any foliage to be included, much
as it is needed. Each flower should be so dis-
played as not to crowd upon that next to it ; it
is only in this way that the best possible effect
can be had. Oftentimes when cutting Daffodils
from home-grown plants there is a danger of
two mistakes being made ; the one is that of
gathering too many sorts at once, and the other
that of taking flowers which have been expanded
for some time. It is not perhaps generally known
that many who exhibit Daffodils in large num-
bers cut them before they are really fully ex-
panded. Afterwards they continue to develop,
but may not possibly reach quite to the size of

those with small trumpets, as the Burbidgei and
poeticus types ; and those with small flowers,
as cyclamineus, the Hoop-petticoat Narcissus
and the Jonquils. H. G.

Forsythia suspensa. — As a plant for cover-
ing walls or for similar purposes this Forsythia
is well known, but as a bush in the open ground
the most generally grown species is viridiseima,
which is, however, not so showy as its more
rambling-growing relative. Notwithstanding the
fact that F. suspensa may be treated as a climber,
it is also seen to very great advantage as an open
bush, as it forms a pleasing specimen of loose,
irregular outline, and the strong arching shoots,
which are pushed up so freely, are just now
wreathed with beautiful golden blossoms. An
isolated specimen will when in a flourishing con-
dition quickly establish quite a colony around it,
for not only are suckers pushed up freely, but when
the tips of the long shoots come into contact with
the earth they soon root, after the manner of a
Bramble, and quickly form a good-sized plant.

May 11, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

329

F. suspensa is certainly one of the very finest of
all early-flowering shrubs. The late excessively
severe winter does not seem to have affected it in
an y way. — T.

Prunus divaricata. — Each recurring season
a fine tree of this species is very beautiful at Kew,
yet despite its undoubted merit as a lawn tree it
is very seldom met with and may be sought for in
vain in most nurseries. It forms a very handsome
tree with a rather wide-spreading, freely -branched
head, and early in the spring when every twig is
laden with white blossoms it stands out very con-
spicuous. Prunus divaricata is a native of the
Caucasus, and, according to Loudon, was intro-
duced in 1820.— T.

Orchard and Fruit Garden,

PEAR WILLIAMS' BON CHRETIEN.

No Pear is better known than this, as it suc-
ceeds admirably in many forms of tree, and is
not so capricious as to soil and situation as some
other sorts, though naturally it is better from
favourable aspects and other conditions in its
favour. Grand fruits are produced on cordon
and wall trees, but, according to my experience,
the best flavoured fruit is obtained from busli
or pyramid trees, where they will succeed. No
doubt the free circulation of air and greater
amount of light are the causes of this superior
quality ; not only so, but the fruit from these
trees always keeps longer without decaying at
the centre than the larger and more imposing
Pears from wall trees. In spite of its early
decay I think the variety will always hold its
position for private use, as its rich flavour and
pleasant perfume will always make it a favourite.
Whether it will be as popular a market Pear in
the future as in the past is doubtful. Low prices
arising from the increased production and
glutted markets, uncertain cropping, and the
introduction of handsome varieties that surpass
it in appearance, are more prolific, and not so
liable to blemishes or black spots on the skin
as Williams' Bon Chretien, will cause growers
to be very careful about planting more of the
variety. I am sorry to see Clapp's Favourite
ousting Williams' in many places, as the quality
is a long way behind that of the old favourite,
and those growers who have made the change
claim that Clapp's is not so subject to fungoid
and insect attacks. When disfigured fruit and
foliage are attributed entirely to those two
causes, I think the cultivator should also bear
some of the blame, as there are now so many
well-proved remedies for such evils that it is
certainly some fault on the grower's part if he
allows the enemies to practically spoil the crop
and foliage, thereby injuring future prospects.
I believe the argument that Williams' is more
prone to the pests attacking Pears than other
varieties will not stand good, as it has never
shown any such tendencies with me amongst
over a thousand trees in great variety. All the
Pear trees are washed alike with an insecticide,
which also acts on any fungus, and I would here
urge on all who may be using Paris green or
other strong remedies to never spray their trees
while in bloom, otherwise injury will follow ;
but immediately the fruit is set it will be safe
to spray again. W. G. C.

Apple Pine-apple Russet. — I have here one
tree of this Apple. It was formerly a bush, but
not being able to get any fruit from it, I allowed

it to grow away at will, hardly pruning it at all.
One season it made shoots 5 feet long, and I
allowed these to remain almost their whole length.
For the last ten years I have had fruit every
season, but never a heavy crop. There is some-
thing about the flavour of this Apple that is most
peculiar, yet pleasing, and which most persons
who have tasted it appear to like. It is an Apple
that I should not care to recommend now that
there is such a number of more certain sorts. —
E. M.

Strawberry Noblo for forcing. — By several
persons in this neighbourhood, one especiall}7, this
Strawberry is thought highly of for forcing. Not
only does the fruit set freely, but it grows to a
large size and takes on a rich colour. A person of
my acquaintance grows a good number of plants,
and with good results, I should say, when we con-
sider the price paid per lb. for the fruit — 4s. 6d.,
and for specially selected 5s. The demand is
much greater than the supply, even at this price.
He commences forcing the plants early in January,
and has the fruit ripe by the middle of March. By
the same time in April a quantity has been
gathered at prices that cannot fail to be remunera-
tive. Instead of layering the runners into pots in
the usual way, he layers them in the open ground
between the rows of plants, and when they are
well established lifts them carefully into the
fruiting pots. Thus the labour entailed in water-
ing, as in the case of pots of any size, while the
runners are becoming established is saved. Capital
plants are evidently obtained, judging from the
produce. — E. M.

Apricots. — Apricots, I find, are setting freely
and promise an abundant crop, but trees on ex-
posed borders will soon require liquid food and
early thinning. Many growers, myself included,
often fail to thin Apricots when set, leaving
them to a later stage, when they have robbed the
trees of much energy and are of little value. I
have seen it stated that these fruits in a green
state are much valued in the kitchen for tarts,
but if left too long they are of little value, and it
is well to thin early for the sake of the later fruits
and to throw all the vigour into the crop. When
the trees are well cared for there need be little
anxiety as to stoning. A limited number of fruits
has a better chance than crowded ones. We get
much finer fruit, have less trouble with insect
pests, and there is less canker when the trees
are well fed and thinning and stopping of the
shoots are practised early.— W.

RASPBERRIES.

1 T is worthy of note how the different varieties
of these have withstood the late winter. On
looking over the rows I find that some of the
kinds are nearly killed to the ground, while others
have scarcely sur!ered at all. How to account for
this was not ditticult when we take all things into
consideration, but to those who have not hitherto
tried the dil.erent modes side by side it may be of
interest. Last season Superlative made fine strong
canes about .8 feet high, and the buds are quite
plump from bottom to top. The plants, standing
singly about a foot apart, are trained to wires
strained across the plot. The rows are 12 feet
apart, so that the light and air are able to penetrate
both sides of the rows to thoroughly ripen the
canes. A row of Prince of Wales growing close
by and treated similarly has also withstood the
winter well, while several rows planted in clumps,
having four or five canes tied to each stake are
nearly all killed to the ground. Several rows of
Fastolf, Carter's Prolific, Red Antwerp, and some
others treated in this way have also suffered,
while those of the same kinds planted in single
rows and trained to wires do not seem to have
suffered in the least. From this it is evident
that the canes grown in clumps were not so well
ripened as those in the single rows, which had
only a space of 6 feet between them. On our soil
Raspberry canes grow very strong, many of the
more robust kinds reaching from 10 feet to 12 feet
in length. These are cut back in spring to 6 feet or

7 feet. During ordinary winters these have with-
stood the frost and have produced very fine crops
of fruit the following season ; sometimes, however,
they have failed, but I have never noticed it to
the same extent as this season. Would it not be
better on such ground to plant in single rows and
allow a greater distance between them? I have
usually gathered more fruit from a row of canes
planted in clumps 4 feet apart than from those on
the single cane system, but sometimes after a
severe winter those grown by the former mode
have suffered considerably ; therefore, taking all
things into consideration, I think the latter plan
would be most profitable, as the canes would be
more thoroughly matured, and therefore not so
liable to get injured during severe winters. That
soils and situations have a great influence on the
hardiness of plants there can be but little doubt,
and those gardens situated in low, wet places
where the ground is heavy sutler much more from
the effects of frost than others on higher elevations.
As an instance of this, recently our thermometer
fell to 27" Fahr., while at an elevation of 600 feet
four miles away 35° was the lowest recorded,
thus showing that though plants may be per-
fectly hardy on the high ground they will not
stand in low, wet places where the soil is retentive.

H. C. Prinsep.

The Apple blossom weevil. — At page 285
Mr. S. T. Wright refers to this terrible pest as
being numerous in some districts this season. As
a rule we sutler very much from its ravages in
this neighbourhood, but I am happy to say that
the bloom petals seem to be growing out of its
reach. If the spring is tolerably forward the in-
sects are not hatched until the flower trusses are
well advanced; consequently the crop is saved;
but in backward seasons I have seen well furnished
trees divested of every bloom in a short time.
The pest, moreover, seems more partial to some
varieties than others. Cox's Orange Pippin and
Cox's Pomona being special favourites. I think the
bloom on small trees can be saved by sprinkling
them over on dewy mornings with wood ashes.
—J. C.

Madresfield Court and Gros Colman
Grapes. — The experience of your correspondent,
R. lvatzer (p. 2S7), in regard to the cracking
of Madresfield Court differs somewhat from my
own, inasmuch as with him this malady, while
affecting his bunches in the early house, was
absent altogether from those in a later house. I
have a Vine inarched on to the Muscat of Alex-
andria stock. This is usually started about the
end of November, the fruit ripening early in June.
I allow a good deal of atmospheric moisture with
air on even until the berries are nearly finished,
and yet they never crack. The Vine in a later
house, started in February, and which is inarched
on the Black Alicante, troubles me somewhat, not
by the ordinary cracking, but by the skin giving
way where the berries wedge each other. For
this reason I now always thin the bunches very
freely to avoid pressure. A grower for market
once told me that he was at one time much
troubled with cracking in this Grape, and that
preserving a dry atmosphere did not cure it. At
last he took to supplying the roots with double
the ordinary quantity of water, when the cracking
entirely ceased. I myself think that to withhold
root moisture just when the berries are colouring
is a great mistake. It is then that the border, if
inside, wants a good soaking to enable the berries
to swell to their normal size and to lay on a good
bloom. In regard to Madresfield Court requiring
less heat than the Hamburgh, I should be very
sorry to plant it in a house with Hamburgh that
came on without the aid of fire heat. My experi-
ence is that it will stand and even enjoy as much
heat as Muscat of Alexandria. R. Katzer asks
if Gros Colman inarched on to Black Alicante or
Muscat would ripen properly in a late house. My
answer is, yes. In the case of the splendid Gros
Colman grown at Kelham Hall and always ripe in
September the Vines are not started until March.
These are grafted on the Muscat. — J. Crawford.

330

THE GARDEN

[Mat 11, 1895.

Stove and Greenhouse.

THE TUBEROSE.

This old inmate of our gardens came originally
from Mexico, having been introduced as long
back as 1029. Its culture, however, in large
quantities for the trade and private uses has
ordy been taken up in the present extensive

The African Tuberose.

manner within the past ten or fifteen years.
The demand probably never has at any time been
greater than it is now. it does not require any
great effort of memory to recall the time when
the only term given was that of the Italian
Tuberose, not from the fact of its being a native
of Italy, but by reason of its there rinding a
congenial home. Since then, and only in recent
years, the culture of this flower for exportation
has extended to South Africa and to America. On
the former continent it is largely grown in the
Natal district, where many acres are annually
planted. On the latter continent it is largely
grown in the Southern States, whilst the West
Indian Islands supply their quota also. The
variety known as the Pearl is of dwarfer habit,
more, I presume, from the treatment accorded or
from the climate where it is grown than from
any really distinct and fixed characteristic of
its own. Without knowing the exact surround-
ings whereby this is brought about, it may be
fairly assumed that it is the climatic influence
which causes it during the ripening process of
the growth.

By purchasing bulbs grown in the several
districts named, it is now possible to greatly
extend the season of supply. For instance, the
Cape bulbs are ready in September, whereas the
American supply is not available until Decem-
ber ; by retarding the latter and hastening the
former a supply may be kept up under other
favourable conditions the year round. When
forcing has to be done, bottom-heat is a decided

boon, as in the case of the Lily of the Valley, but
later batches do not really stand in need of it.
The latest of the American bulbs can be suc-
cessfully grown by planting them outside on
warm borders. These, if planted during May
and early in June, can afterwards be lifted and
flowered in the late autumn in warmth. An-
other plan is to plunge them over the rims of
the pots where the soil outside is too heavy or
too cold. Loam is oftentimes recommended as
the soil in which to pot them, but half and half
of loam and peat (or leaf-soil if peat be scarce)
will give more satisfactory results. No manure
is needed in the soil, otherwise it will tend to
produce a super-abundant leaf growth, but ma-
nure water will, if given after the spikes are
fairly started, greatly assist the bulbs in de-
veloping the flowers. In private gardens the
one great trouble oftentimes is that of red
spider, to which the Tuberose seems to be pre-
disposed. This can be kept in check best by
frequent syringings, using water impregnated
with the properties of soot, but in a clear (or
nearly so) state. A moist atmosphere will, of
course, be far better as a preventive. In any
case it is best to avoid growing the plants in
vineries, Peach houses, &c, for this reason.
The Tuberose makes one of the prettiest button-
hole bouquets imaginable, a good background
for two or three flowers and a bud being a spray
of the Box-leaved Myrtle. The double is by
far the most popular form, but the single is not
by any means to be despised, particularly when
the flowers are just expanded. The mistake
often made is that of giving water too freely
before the growths have advanced sufficiently
for the pots to be fairly well filled with roots.
When the pots are well filled with roots and
the spikes pushing up, then manure water may
be freely given, that from
the farmyard being prefer-
able. Where many suckers
appear around the crown
growth, it is a good plan to
thin them out, otherwise
the flower - spike will be
weakened. Personally, I
have had a preference for
growing the Tuberose in
the long pots, oftentimes
termed Hyacinth pots ;
these take less room and
are quite large enough.
Southron.

tion to show that these golden flowered Callas
are decided favourites at the present time. Single
tubers realised from 26?. to 35s. each, while
smaller ones sold in pairs fetched 30s. the two.
Others were disposed of in fours at about 13s.
each. If this consignment turns out to be correctly
named we shall soon see this Calla more gene
rally grown. In connection with the prices above
quoted it may be interesting to recall those realised
by R. Elliottiana when sold at the same place on
June 17, 1S92 The highest price for one plant
of this was 17 guineas, and the lowest about 14s.,
but these last were very small. The plants of R.
Elliottiana were all in a growing state, hence no
doubt existed as to their correct name, but those,
of R. Pentlandi sold the other day were quite dor-
mant, and in that state could not be distinguished
from others, especially R. hastata. On December
14, 1S92, a quantity of tubers was disposed of
at prices varying from 12s. to 15s. each as Calla
Pride of the Congo, and announced as a " new
golden flowered Calla from Africa," but on flower-
ing they (or at all events all that came under my
observation) turned out to be R. hastata. It is to
be hoped that those sold the other day as R.
Pentlandi will prove to be correct. — H. P.

SNAKE'S HEAD FRITILLARY.

A liimii garden plant that comes straight from
our English meadows is Fritillaria Meleagris.
In some districts both the purple and the beau-
tiful white variety abound. For simple beauty
it holds its own against any of the numerous
garden Fritillaries of low stature. The curious
chequering of the flower is very interesting when
observed closely. It is not affected by colouring
only, as it is nearly equally perceptible in the
pure white. These pretty plants like a cool
soil that is never dried up, if among Grass so
much the better, water mfadows being their

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Anthurium Andreanum

album. — A white-flowered
A. Andreanum has been re-
ferred to more than once,
but the flowers that have
come under ray observation
were small and of a pinkish
tinge. I recently saw a
white- flowered variety with
a spathe equal in size to that
of an ordinary A. Andrea-
num. The contrast between
this Anthurium and the bril-
liant spathesof the others is
most marked, and it will
doubtless in time be very

generally grown. The spathe of this variety is natural home,
less corrugated than that of the type. Apart
from their quaint and showy blossoms, the foliage
of this cla-s of Anthuriums is decidedly orna-
mental. The flowers, too, remain fresh for a long
time, this being another great point in favour of
these Aroids. — H. P.

The Snake' s-head [Fritillaria Meleagris) as a pot plant.

The illustration shows the
beauty of the bulb in a pot, a purpose for which
it is well adapted. The bulbs must be potted
up in the autumn and in ordinary soil. They
will grow freely in a greenhouse.

Richardia Pentlandi. — On April 24 some
300 tubers, announced as the "new yellow
Arum Lily Pentlandi," were offered for sale,
and they attracted a sufficient amount of atten-

Fuchsia Princess May. — A great many of
the new Fuchsias sent out within the last few
j-ears have been principally remarkable for the
size of their flowers, for, in common with many

May 11, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

331

other subjects, the production of huge blooms
seems to be the one object aimed at by the raisers.
This, however, cannot be said of the variety
Princess May, which is a pretty and remarkably
free-flowering Fuchsia even in a small state. This
is one of the light-coloured Fuchsias, the tube
and sepals being white, with a slight blush tint,
while the single corolla is of a pleasing shade of
rosy coral. It is of a dwarf, freely-branched
habit, just the style of plant that is popular with
our market growers, and I hear that some of them
think highly of it. This variety does not grow
so freely as some, but during its earlier stages it
responds readily to a little more heat than most
of them need. Princess May was raised by Mr.
Banks, who many years ago was well known as a
raiser of new Fuchsias. — H. P.

THE MARKET GARDEN.*
Field Cc litre of Vegetables.
The ways and means which at the present day
are open to the cultivator who desires to in-
crease the number and variety of his crops are
more numerous and va'ied than ever, but, at
the same time, the number of the crops that will
certainly pay has become more and more
limited. This is so because the increasing com-
petition of foreign countries is more widely felt,
while in the interior districts the constant
increase of imposts and charges of all kinds
bears more and more heavily upon the expenses
of production.

This foreign competition, however, does not
extend in the same degree to all the products of
agriculture, but the kinds which suffer most
from it are those which, from their good keep-
ing properties and their immunity from injury
in transit, can be easily sent to our markets
from distant foreign countries.

The products which, in a great measure, are
free from foreign competition are those which,
requiring to be consumed while fresh, cannot
bear long journeys without having their selling
price considerably diminished thereby, and to
this class belong fruits ami fresh vegetables.
Accordingly, I have thought that it would be
highly advantageous to cultivators if someone
pointed out to them certain fruits and vegetables
which might be admitted into the general plan
of farm culture, and which, if properly attended
to, would yield a profit not to be despised.

With regard to fruits and fruit trees, that part
of the question has been already disposed of, as
one of your fellow-townsmen, Mens. Charles
Baltet, has supplied instructions and advice of
the greatest importance on this subject, and I
shall now confine myself to an account of the
vegetables which may be profitably introduced
into field culture, especially in the proximity of
large centres of population, and more particu-
larly of the industrial classes, where there would
be a considerable demand for fresh vegetables.

In the first place, it is necessary to make a
distinction between those kinds of vegetables
which can be almost certainly grown success-
fully without any artificial watering and those
kinds which, on the other hand, almost indis-
pensably require to have a considerable quan-
tity of water supplied to them by means of in-
filtration, irrigation, or any other method. The
language of every-day life, which is always
picturesque and logical in its expressions and
derivations, has given the name of "culture
maraichere" (that is, "cultivation in the
marais " or marshes) to that department of cul-
tivation which aims chiefly at the production of
fresh vegetables on a large scale and by speedy
methods. The earliest specialist cultivators

* Address delivered by Mons. Henri de Vilmorin at
the Congres Agricole de Troyes, June 4, 1S92.

had in fact recognised the necessity of supply-
ing many kinds of vegetables with a far greater
quantity of water than is afforded them by an
occasional fall of rain. Hence the establish
ment of the first market gardens in low-lying,
sometimes marshy, parts of Grass lands, where
the soil was always moist from its proximity to
the underground water, which being always not
far from the surface could without any great
labour also be utilised for artificial watering.
It is for this reason that the culture of vege-
tables in the neighbourhood of towns is chiefly
confined to the valleys and the low-lying, moist
parts of the adjacent plains. One of the most
interesting examples of this kind of culture is
furnished by the "hortillons" (or market
gardeners) of Amiens, who raise their crops on
the dry-land portions of ancient peat bog3
which are traversed by innumerable canals
serving for the transport of both products and
manure — a veritable Venice of market gardens.

But, although most kinds of vegetables are
benefited by being abundantly supplied with
water, there are some kinds which, in ordinary
seasons, are satisfied with the rain that falls
during summer in our climate, and on this dis-
tinction is based the agricultural prosperity of
many localities around Paris, where without
artificial watering and under much the same
conditions as those of careful field culture a
large proportion of the vegetables which supply
the markets of Paris is raised. Around nearly
the whole of Paris extends a zone varying in
width from eight to twenty-four miles in which
the farmers devote sometimes a very consider-
able proportion of their land to the production
of vegetables which they usually bring to the
city market themselves with their own carts
and horses, so that the limit of these cultivators
is mostly fixed by the distance to which a horse
can go and return in a night and half a day.

In the neighbourhood of Verrie'res, for ex-
ample (which I know particularly well from
having spent about half of every year there all
my life), eight miles from Paris, about one-fourth
of the soil is devoted to the culture of crops f< ir
the Paris markets. There one may see numerous
orchards of low-trained fruit trees and planta-
tions of Currants and Gooseberries, not to speak
of very many choice kinds of Cherries and
Plums. All these, however, come into the list
of the subjects of which Mons. Charles Baltet
has treated so well. But amongst these planta-
tions, or under the trees, large areas of
ground are covered with Strawberries, dwaif
Peas, and even Violets. In the most open
parts Asparagus and early Potatoes are grown
for the first spring crops, also Haricot Beans
for cooking green, early tall-growing Peas,
Gherkins, Spinach, Sorrel, Bru-sels Sprouts,
and, for some time past, even Cauliflowers and
Tomatoes. All these are grown without any
artificial watering, and I think they form a
pretty exact list of the vegetables which can be
recommended for field culture in localities
where the climate is similar to that of Paris.

In this discourse, therefore, I shall more
particularly treat of the culture of Asparagus,
Gherkins, Spinach, Haricot Beans, Peas and
Potatoes, not forgetting, however, those other
kinds of vegetables which, being more exacting
in the matter of moisture, may find in valley
lands a position favourable to their growth, viz.,
Artichokes, Cardoons, Celery, various salad
plants and most of the kitchen garden roots. In
short, I shall divide this culture of vegetables on
a large scale into two sections : (1) the culture
of the more hardy kinds in plains and upland
districts, and (2) the culture in valleys of those
kinds which require a more abundant supply of
moisture.

This division, I admit, cannot always be
strictly maintained, as it is liable to be influenced
by many local peculiarities ; but it is founded,
as I believe, on a sound basis, namely, the dif-
ference or distinction that must be made between
ground which receives only the rain water that
falls upon it, and other ground, such as that in
valleys, which receives, through infiltration, a
portion of the rain water that falls upon the
higher ground.

As it would take several hours to exhaust this
subject even in its simplest aspect, and as the
time at my disposal is limited, my observations
will bear chiefly upon the selection of the most
suitable varieties of each kind of vegetable for
field culture, together with a description of their
distinctive characteristics. The more indeed the
adaptabilities of plants are specialised, the more
important to the success of the planting is the
selection of a variety which is well adapted for
the object which one has in view.

(1) The hardiest hinds of vegetables which, not
requiring any artificial watering, are /»'«' suit-
able fur cultivation in ordinary tint or upland
districts.

ASPARAIM S.

The field culture of Asparagus is one of the
most interesting innovations of the present age,
and one which has been attended with the most
striking success. At almost all times a few
rows of Asparagus plants have been interspersed
amongst other crops, and notably amongst
Vines. It was in this way that the culture of
Asparagus commenced at Argenteuil, but owing
to the proximity of Paris and the enterprising
spirit of the cultivators, that which at first was
a mere accessory very soon became the chief
object of attention, and the profit which the
people of Argenteuil now derive from their crops
of Asparagus undoubtedly exceeds that which
they obtain from their vineyards. There is no
other crop, perhaps, which yields so large a
return for the care bestowed upon it as
Asparagus. One might say that, as is the case
with diamonds, the value o'f Asparagus increases
in proportion to the square of the size of the
plants, so that a bundle of it which has cost
twice as much to produce it as another bundle
has will readily sell for four times the price of
the latter.

In plains or flat districts any kind of good soil,
provided it is well drained, is suitable for the
cultivation of Asparagus ; at the same time there
is a great advantage in selecting ground that is
mellow, light and easily work.d, as with soil
of this kind the numerous operations connected
with the maintenance, earthing-up, manuring
and cutting of the crop are much less expensive,
and are done in a better and more satisfactory
manner.

There are numerous instances of plantations
of Asparagus which are 25 acres or even 60
acres in extent, and are cultivated entirely with
the plough, with the exception of the manual
labour which is always required in the opera-
tions of earthing up the plants and gathering
the crop. Manure should be liberally supplied..
The heads of the Asparagus grown at Argenteuil
are indebted for their size and fine appearance
to plentiful applications of the night soil which
is carted from Paris. A small quantity of sea
salt, of which a special preparation is sold for
agricultural purposes, is a useful addition to the
manure.

With respect to the best varieties, the pre-
ference should be given to the Argenteuil early
and late kinds (Asperge hative and A. tardive
d'Ai\jenteuil). These two kinds should be
grown in every plantation in the proportion of
three-fourths of the early variety to one-fourth

332

THE GARDEN

[Mat 11, 1895.

of the late. The difference between them is
not so much with respect to the time at which
the shoots become fit for cutting as that the
late variety continues to produce vety fine
heads for a much longer period than the early
kind, which in the beginning of the season
yields very fine heads, but these soon decrease
very much in size, although abundantly pro-
duced. It is then that the iate kind comes in,
happily, with its good-sized heads, which are
all the more valuable from their comparative
rareness at that season. These large- sized
heads are used either for setting off bundles of
small-sized Asparagus or are made by them-
selves into choice bundles, which at the end of
the season command almost as high prices as
they did at the beginning.

Amongst the general considerations which
are favourable to the field culture of Asparagus
may be reckoned (1) the increasing demand for
this vegetable, which keeps up the market price
of it, notwithstanding its more extensive culti-
vation ; (2) the great length of time which
plantations of Asparagus will last when they
are once well established ; (,3) the possibility of
rendeiing the plantations exceptionally produc-
tive by setting the plants well apart from one
another, so that they may produce heads of in-
creased size by the careful preparation of the
ground and by a judicious use of manures ;
(4) the comparatively high value of the produce,
which insures the cultivator against any risk of
loss in sending it, even great distances, to
markets where the local Asparagus crop has not
yet come in or where the supply has ceased.

Borecole and Brussels Sprouts.

Many varieties of hearting or solid-headed
Cabbages may be grown in fields in ordinary
soil and without any artificial watering, but
crops of these kinds of Cabbage are always more
or less precarious, the occurrence of unusually
hot and dry weather in spring being very detri-
mental to their growth. Of this class, there-
fore, I can only recommend with confidence —
for field culture in ordinary flat districts — the
autumn kinds which do not form heads until
the beginning of winter, and even then some-
times do so rather imperfectly. The best of
these is the Chou de Vaugirard, which is so
highly esteemed in the neighbourhood of Paris,
and the Chou de Milan court hatif, which, when
sown in June or July and planted out when the
autumn showers begin to fall, yields throughout
the winter broad rosettes of very early and very
tender leaves surrounding a heart which is
generally about the size of two fists at the most.

The small Chou frise de Limay, which is almost
the same variety as the last-mentioned, but
bearing the head on a tall instead of a very
dwarf stem, is also suitable for field culture.
These three kinds possess the double advantage
of thoroughly withstanding frosty weather and
of continuing fit for use for a long time, so
that the grower can wait, without any risk of
loss, for market days when the price will be a
paying one, and also for such times as will bring
weather favourableforcutting the crop and send-
ing it to market. Forming imperfect heads,
these varieties bring us, by a very natural tran-
sition, to the Borecoles, which do not form any
head at all and which are not much grown in
France, notwithstanding their great utility as
a winter vegetable. Fully a dozen varieties of
Borecole are grown in England and in Germany,
but in France we grow hardly any except the
green and purple curled kinds, tall and dwarf.
The Borecoles are perfectly hardy plants, having
withstood the frosts of the terrible winters of
1879 and 1S90 uninjured, and produce leaves
which are very palatable and even delicate in

flavour, especially after frost has acted upon
them. Besides these common and very hardy
kinds, the Chou frisfi de Mosbach, the variety
known as Bricoli at the Halle market in Paris,
and Ihe common and curled varieties of the
Couve Tronchuda, or Portugal Cabbage, are
also very suitable for field culture.

The same can be said of the Brussels Sprouts,
which do not commence to bear until October
or November, and which, having been planted
out when the spring-sown plants are strong
enough, will yield a plentiful succession of
sprouts all through the winter. This vegetable
is coming more and more into request in our
markets, and the following three varieties are
those which are most in favour at Paris : —

1. Cnou de Bruxelles orand, a very produc-
tive kind, bearinga great number of sprouts about
the s ize of a large Hazel nut.

2. Chou de Bruxelles nain, a dwarfer-grow-
ing and more thick -set kind, bearing much larger
sprouts (as large as a Walnut). Large-sized
Brussels Sprouts are thought much of in
England and are admired at exhibitions, but are
inferior to the small-sized kinds in delicacy of
flavour.

3. Chop de Bruxelles moyen de la Halle is
the acme of production achieved by the cultiva-
tors who supply Paris. The plants of this variety
are very regular in growth, and are characterised
by the purplish tint of the leaf-stalks. The
sprouts are round, nearly spherical in shape, well
formed, furnishing the stem regular!}-, and are
produced in succession for three or four months.
The variety is also hardy and quite suitable for
field culture. In gathering all kinds of Brussels
Sprouts a good deal of hand labour is required.

(To be continued.)

Notes of the Week.

Incarvillea alpina (?) has stood the winter
unprotected in the open. At present there is
some question as to how far this is synonymous with
I. Delavayi, as this latter does not seem to have
flowered in England. — W. Thompson, Ipswich,

Spiraea Thunbergi fl.-pl. — Almost all good
shrubs find a congenial home at Syon House, and
in the rich soil grow and show themselves in their
prettiest aspects. This one is delightful, tall,
its slender shoots perfect wreaths of pure white
double flowers.

Trillium grandiflorum in a moist nook of
the rock garden at Kew is one of the finest things
in flower in the present week. A large tuft has
nearly forty fine flowers all open. Anyone with
a place likely to suit this the finest of all the
Wood Lilies should try and grow it.

Iris csespitosa is a pretty kind now in bloom.
It has thick tufts of narrow, grassy leaves, and out
of flower might be taken for a strong plant of the
Cock's-foot Grass. Its flowers, which are freely
borne, are of a deep violet-blue colour and carried
on short stems which do not rise above the leaves.

Phlox canadensis.— The alpine Phloxes are
among the brightest of spring flowers for the
rock garden, and make fine sheets of colour.
This species now flowering at Kew is most distinct
and very pretty, the flowers in shape and disposi-
tion resembling those of P. reptans, but of a
lovely pale blue shade.

The single Jew's Mallow.— The merits of
this flowering shrub are not sufficiently recog-
nised, but it has a distinct and graceful beauty of
its own and is like a single yellow Rose in effect.
A large group of it is quite the best thing among
shrubs in the present week, the bushes being
covered with flowers.

Pyrus spectabilis is a picture of soft pink on
the mound at Kew, and in common with all its
kindred is flowering with unusual freedom. We

trust these noble flowering trees may some day
become more common in gardens. At present it
is quite the exception to see them, and yet
visitors to Kew pause to note the beauty of this
and similar trees.

Sairtpaulia ionantha. — This pretty plant,
of which a coloured plate was given in The
Garden for February 23 of this year, is well grown
by Mr. Laing at Forest Hill, and when there re-
cently we saw several healthy specimens in abun-
dant bloom. The colour of its flowers is rich and
effective, and doubtless the plant will soon be-
come popular.

Magnolia Soulangeana.— This Magnolia is
now flowering finely at Syon House, where both
it and M. conspicua are well represented by large
specimens. Its deep purple-stained flowers are
rich in effect, and besides its distinctness of
colour it is valuable, as it flowers from a week to
ten days later than M. conspicua, thus prolonging
the blooming season of these nc Die-flowering trees.

Cytisus prsecox. — Groups of this pretty and
early-flowering Brocm are now very bright at Kew.
It is a shrub of great beauty, strangely much
neglected in gardens. Whilst many of the better-
known Brooms, such as the white Portuguese and
the yellow Spanish, are seriously crippled, this
kind is flowering with its usual freedom, showing
no traces of the severe cold.

Ranunculus aconitifolius is best known in
its double-flowered form, but the type itself is
well worth growing by those who have a moist
place such as it wants. It luxuriates at Kew,
with its roots perpetually moistened by the tiny
stream that flows through the bog, and at the
present time its leafy tufts are thickly studded
with the single white flowers.

Ccelogyne pandurata. — I have a nice spike
of this Orchid just opening. The spike is 2 feet
6 inches long and has thirteen blooms, each 5
inches in diameter. The sepals and petals are of
a lovely soft shade of green, the lip jet-black and
beautifully fringed. The spike has a bold,
pleasing appearance. — F. Knights, Bitteswell
Hall Gardens, Lutterworth, Leicestershire.

Tulipa linifolia and T. montana are two of
the smaller species now in flower at Kew, but both
bright and distinct. T. linifolia has long narrow
grassy leaves, the flowers pale red externally,
brighter scarlet inside, with a shining black base.
T. montana has undulated leaves and a bright red
flower with a regular zone of black, faintly
margined with yellow at tie base inside.

Iris pumila. — This is one of the dwarfest of
the Flag Irises, and a useful plant on light, free
soils near the edge of beds and borders. It
spreads about and cjuite early in spring becomes
a sheet of flowers. There are several different
coloured forms of it. One of the best which we
noted recently at Long Ditton is Count Andrassy,
with flowers of a deep blue shade, very freely pro-
duced.

Polemonium humile is a small, but pretty
species, well worthy of the little care necessary to
bring it safely through the winter. It perishes
on cold or wet soils, but is hardy in those that are
warm and well drained. We noticed it in flower
the other day at Messrs. Laing and Sons, Forest
Hill. Its leaves are much smaller than those of
P. cceruleum, but the flowers are large, pale blue,
and borne on stems ti inches to S inches high.

Strawberry Laxton'a Leader. — Messrs.
Laxton send us fruits of a fine new Strawberry
named Leader, the result of a cross between Latest
of All and Noble. The fruits are conical, in some
cases wedge-shaped, the colour bright crimson,
flesh scarlet throughout, and with asharp, piquant
flavour. It seems to be a variety that will travel
well. The plants from which the fruits were
gathered were only potted up at the end of Sep-
tember.

Tulipa Has geri and T. Sprengeri are two
pretty Tulips now in flower at Kew. Though
distinct from a garden point of view, T. Sprengeri
will probably be classed only as a variety. T.
Haageri has a neat flower of a distinct brick-red

May 11, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

333

shade externally, bright red inside, slightly
stained with brown at the base, the anthers also
brown. T. Spr ngeri has longer and more pointed
petals, is orange-red externally, light red inside,
with the brown stain developed into a more pro-
nounced blotch at the base of each petal.

The Chinese Plum.— I note your remark
anent this Plum (Prunus triloba) being in flower
against a sunny wall at Kew. I eaw it flowering
magnificently in the open in Mr. Ladham's
Shirley Nursery, near Southampton, last week.
Although it may be a charming wall plant, its
proper place seems to be in the open, so that its
beauty may be seen. The delicate rose-coloured
blossoms are uncommon at this season of the year
in the open.— E. M.

Tulips.— Mr. Hartland sends us from the
south of Ireland a beautiful gathering of Tulips,
including forms of T. Gesncriana, T. retroflexa, T.
macrospeila, T. Bouton d'Or, very handsome, T.
vitellina, &c. The flowers are of fine size and
very clear in colour. We should like to see the
species of Tulip oftener, as there is such a variety
among them as regards colour and form. What
could produce a finer effect than a mass of T.
pra?cox, T. Oreigi, T. Gesneriana, or T. Bouton
d'Or?

Ranunculus cortntsefolius, or grandifolius,
as it is named at Kew, is flowering in the little
bog in the rock garden, but it is also to be seen in
magnificent specimens grown in pots and now
in bloom in the greenhouse. They are well
grown and finely flowered, the leaves large and
handsome, the flower-spike a yard or more in
height, terminated by a flat-branched head of
blooms, which are of the richest Buttercup yel-
low, and each as large as a five shilling piece.
This was figured in The GARDEN of January 13,
1895, p. 28.

Srowy Mespilus. — It is not possible to
imagine a more handsome object than a tree
of this 25 feet high and 20 feet through com-
pletely smothered with pure white blossoms. I
lately saw two tree3 in a small garden along the
Shirley Road, outside of Southampton, last week.
Amongst authorities there appears to be some
difference of opinion as to the naming of this shrub.
It would be interesting to know its proper name.
Perhaps someone will clear up the point for me, as
I confess to uncertainty in the matter. — E. M.

Rhododendron racemosum.— This pretty
new Rhododendron, received from Messrs. Veitch
for trial, has come quite unharmed through the
past winter. It is in an exposed position in the
rock garden, and is now a perfect mass of bloom.
It is certainly a welcome acquisition and a shrub
that may be associated with the choicest alpine
flowers, as the little bushes, less than 1 foot in
height, are covered with bloom. The flowers
are not in crowded heads like those of most Rhodo-
dendrons, but appear in clusters of two or three
in the axils of the leaves all along the shoots.
The buds are bright rosy pink, expanding into
flowers with pink-tipped petals, shading to white.
A coloured plate of this Rhododendron was given
in The Garden, October 8, 1892.

Tulir s at Kew. — The only Tulips one
generally sees in gardens are the early or late-
flowering florists' kinds, but at Kew the species
predominate, and some of them fill entire beds,
showing unmistakably their beauty and value as
garden flowers. Two beds of T. fulgens near the
greenhouse are specially brilliant; the distinct
form and tall, stately character of this species
mark it as one of the very best. A curious feature
of it is that the flowers are breaking into all sorts
of variegations of colour like the feathered and
flamed varieties of gardens. T. Gesneriana
spathulata will be at its best shortly. T. Bata-
lini, a fine yellow species, fills several beds. This,
too, under cultivation shows a tendency to vary,
the petals having a light fringe of reddish brown
on their edges. T. cornuta, known also as T.
acuminata, is more curious than showy, with its
long narrow petal?, but growing in the Orass at
Kew it is brighter and even attractive. It is not

worth a place in beds and borders, but it has a
new interest when naturalised.

Chair aerops excelsa in Surrey.— Here C.
excelsa has stood 32° of frost well, and may be
classed as perfectly hardy when thoroughly esta-
blished in this (Surrey) and other counties in the
south of England and Ireland. Our plants (about
twelve in number) to day (May 5) look beautiful.
They are in a fairly sheltered position and are
left uncovered as long as possible. We get some
long Fir branches newly cut and stick them well
into the ground all round each plant, lacing them
round with twine, bringing the point9 together
well over the centre and securing them there.
This light protection admits plenty of air, and
also obstructs the fierce rays of the sun in early
morning after frost. C. excelsa likes a rather
strong, well-drained soil, with a little artificial
manure when established and plenty of water at
the roots in dry weather, syringing overhead in
the evening.— Thus. Whitfield, St. Catherine's
House, Guildford.

Violets. — There are several charming species
of Violets not often met with in gardens now
flowering in the rock garden at Kew. V. biflora
is a pretty little gem, but does not quite accord
with its name. It has rounded leaves, but the
flowers are borne singly on a slender stalk thrown
well up above the leaf-tufts. They are small, but
of a rich yellow colour, with brown lines on the
lower petal. V. cucullata has heart-shaped, pointed
leaves and a profusion of flowers as large as those
of the sweet Violet, light violet-blue in colour, the
two upper petals larger and broader than the
others, giving the flower a characteristic shape.
A pure white form of this species was also in
flower close by. V. canina alba is also worth
growing, for though the Dog Violet makes sheets of
colour in poor soil where the sweet Violet will not
grow, and shows much variation in shades of blue,
white forms in a wild state are most uncommon.
The vaiiety at Kew is distinct in shape, too, its
petals being longer and more pointed than those
of the type.

Flowers f om Newry. — I send you a small
gathering of spring flowers, some of which are
uncommon. Mertensia virginica rosei is quite
distinct. Orobus vernus albus roseus is the
most charming Orobus I have yet seen. Anemone
blanda bicolor is beautiful, buds blue, open flowers
white. Muscari Szovitzianum subcuruleum is, I
think, the best of all the Muscaris ; a mass of its
charming pale blue is delightful. Erythronium
giganteum and grandiflorum are thoroughly at
home here in all aspects. They are very distinct
and handsome and remain long in flower ; the
main distinction between them is that the former
is usually one-flowered, while the latter bears
from one to five blooms on a scape. Fritillaria
montana and messanensis are distinct and easily
grown. Helonias bullata in the bog is just open-
ing hundreds of flowers. Mertensia virginica is
splendid with ample foliage and stems 2 feet
hifh, masses of delightful blue. The Polyanthuses
in white, gold, orange, and bronze are a grand
sight. Sorbus majesticus with its ample silvery
leaves is a most telling tree at the present time.
— T. Smith, Xcuri/.

Clivias. — There is a large house devoted to
these in the Forest Hill nurseries of Messrs. J.
Laing and Sons, and although the plants are now
rapidly passing out of flower, quite a number of
fresh fine spikes was to be seen recently. The
plants are interesting, too, in other respects, for
some of them were just ripening up the seed-pods
from last year's flower-spikes. The plant is not
often seen in this state in private gardens for
obvious reasons, but these seed-bearing plants are
certainly handsome with their great red, oval
berries, larger than Walnuts, several in some cases
being on a spike. The object here being the im-
provement of vaiieties, natural^' the number of
seed pods is reduced, but a plant that had a full
crop of seed would be bright. Among the varie-
ties still flowering at the time of our visit we
noted the following : Right Hon. J. Chambeilain,
which recently received an award of merit at the

Drill Hall, and has a fine truss of bright red
flowers ; Duke of Teck, handsome, broad petals,
bright orange ; Duchess of Teck, large in flower
and truss ; Vivid, extra bright, as the name
implies, quite a vermillionred ; and Empress
Eugenie, most distinct, of a rosy buff colour
shading to primrose in the throat, the flowers
large, in a bold truss.

Prunus Jacquemonti. — This bushy plant
belonging to the Cerasus section of the genus is
one of the most beautiful of the dwarf species.
Several plants are at present in bloom at Kew,
the slender, wiry branches of last year's growth
being thickly covered with the small rosy flowers.
In certain districts of the North-western Hima-
layas it is a very common shrub at altitudes of
9000 feet to 12,000 feet. It is also found in
Thibet and in Afghanistan, one of the plants in
flower at Kew having been introduced jrom the
latter country by Dr. Aitchison in 1879. The
individual flower is about three-quarters of an inch
across, and the leaves, which are lanceolate, quite
glabrous, and from 1 inch to 2 inches long, closely
follow the expansion of the (lowers. A species
nearly allied to this and frequently confounded
with it is P. humilis, a native of China. It is of
similar shrubby habit, and the corolla of the flower
is of about the same size and colour, but whilst
the calyx of P. Jacquemonti is long and tubular
and has pointed reflexed lobes, that of P. humilis
is shorter and smaller. The latter species is also
a little later in flowering. Both are well suited
for planting in groups near the front of a shrubbery
or even in beds by themselves.— W. J. B.

Polyanthuses at Hampton Court. — At
Hampton Court Mr. Craham has been trying the
orange and vellow Polyanthuses, or bunch Prim-
roses as many nowcall them, for springbedding, and
with such success that we d a not remember to have
ever seen anything finer in effect or so fragrant.
There are thousands of plants, all of the yellow-
flowered strain, and they fill all the beds beside
the long walk and the long border on the oppo-
site side. Probably in no garden, public or
private, has such a quantity ever been grown
at one time. The effect is charming, and a
slight admixture of Tulips in different shades
relieves the flatness and gives a little more
colour. The strain is a good one, but Mr.
Graham hopes to greatly improve it by selecting
the finest kinds for seed production. This is
the third year he has been growing the plants in
this way, and a fresh batch is raised each year
from seed. We saw the seed beds in which the
young plants for next year's flowering were just
appearing. The seed is sown in open-air beds
protected from birds with nets, the seedlings
transplanted when large enough, and removed to
their flowering beds late in October. At no time
do they ever have glass treatment, and no flowers
grown under glass ever made a prettier picture.

Spirasa arguta.— The beauties of this Spiraea
have more than once been referred to in the pages
of The Garden, vet it still remains so uncommon
that no excuse is'needed for mentioning it again.
It is of hybrid origin, and was, I believe, raised on
the Continent. More than two species probably
are concerned in its parentage, but those whose
characters most clearly predominate are S. Thun-
bergi and S. hypericifolia. The largest plant I have
seen is between 3 feet and 4 feet high, and although
it may possibly grow to a larger size than that, it
belongs to the dwarfest section of Spiraea. Its
dwarfness is indeed one of its charms, for the
wiry-looking stems are arching or semi-pendulous,
and" all the flowers being produced on the upper
side, the beautiful pure white sprays bending out-
wards in every direction are seen to the best ad-
vantage. These flower-clad shoots are those made
last year, and are, as a rule, 6 inches to 9 inches
in length ; to obtain them as long as possible it
should be planted in rich loam. So far as I have
seen it flowers with uniform freedom, and no re-
striction at the root is needed either to produce
abundant bloom or prevent the formation of over-
luxuriant growth subject to damage by severe
frosts. It may be increased by cuttings, but the

334

THE GARDEN.

[May 11, 1895.

thin stems do not root readily, and I find it better
to layer an old plant, and thus obtain nice flower-
ing plants in a couple of seasons. — B.

Public Garden?.

Open spaces.— At the monthly meeting of the
Metropolitan Public Gardens Association, 83,
Lancaster Gate, yesterday, the Earl of Meath
(the chairman) presiding, six new members were
elected, and Lord Teynham was appointed a vice-
chairman. It was announced that St. Peter's
Churchyard, Walworth, would be opened on
May 23 by the Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths'
Company, that company having provided the
association with funds for the laying out of the
ground ; that Woolwich Churchyard would be
open as early as possible in June, that six seats
had been accepted for Bartholomew Square ;
that the remainder of the churchyard of All-
hallows, London Wall, had been made available
for the public ; and that the association would
shortly erect gymnastic apparatus in the play-
ground recently added to St. Nicholas Garden,
Deptford. It was agreed to offer to lay out St.
Mary's Churchyard, Bromley-by-Bow ; to take
steps to acquire, if possible, a triangle in Hornsey
Rise, an enclosure in Upper Street, Islington,
and other sites : to offer seats for St. Peter's
Churchyard, Cornhill ; and to negotiate for the
improvement of the Brixton Oval, the remainder of
Stockwell Common, a Jewish burial ground in
Fulham Road, Walcot and St. Mary's Squares,
Kennington, Arbour Square, St. Stephen's School
Ground, North Bow, and a disused burial ground
in Globe Road, Mile End. It was also agreed to
co operate with the other open spaces societies in
efforts to secure the preservation of the Bute House
Estate, Petersham. A letter from the association
to the London County Council was read and ap-
proved, pointing out recent cases of building
apparently infringing the provisions of the Dis-
used Burial Grounds Act, I8S4, and the Open
Spaces Act, IS87. Particulars of certain vacant
sites in Canning Town, Mile End, and Walworth
were brought before the meeting.

Royal Horticultural Society.— The next
meeting of the society will be held in the Drill Hall,
James Street, Victoria Street, Westminster, on
Tuesday, May 14, when a large show of hardy
flowers, Daffodils, &c, is anticipated. At 3 p.m.
Dr. Morris, of Kew, will deliver a lecture on the
"Plants and Gardens of the Canary Islands.''
The lecture will be illustrated by dissolving views
from the magic lantern.

The weather in West Herts.— All the
days during the past week have been warm, and
one or two of them very warm for the time of
year, but as a rule the nights have proved moder-
ately cold. On the 6th inst. the maximum read-
ing in shade was 72°, which is very high for so
early in May. During the last six days the tem-
peratuie of the ground has been rising rapidly.
At 2 feet deep it now stands at 54°, and at 1 foot
deep at 58°, and at the latter depth is about 3°
higher than the May average, and 5° warmer than
at the same time last year. No rain has now
fallen for seven days, and owing to the rapid
evaporation that has lately taken place, the soil
is already becoming dry. Throughout the week
the atmosphere has been singularly dry. In fact
on the 6th the difference between thereadings of
an ordinary thermometer and one with its bulb
kept constantly moist amounted to as much as 103
at three o'clock in the afternoon. The record of
bright sunshine has also been remarkable, the
average daily duiation amounting to nearlv twelve
hours. For only six hours altogether has the
wind during the week taken any other direction
than some point between north and east. A
Blenheim Orange Apple came into blossom in my
garden on the 7th inst., which is one day later than

the average date of the first flowering of the same
tree in the previous nine years, and twenty-five
days later than last year. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

Slugs. — We have a dreadful plague of garden
slugs in this neighbourhood notwithstanding the
severity of the winter. One would almost think
it had been raining slugs. We have slaughtered
thousands by night, which is the only efficacious
way of curing the evil. Lime and soot are use-
less when they have once been rained on, and in
any case they only drive the slugs away to feed and
breed elsewhere. Nature and slugs will not alter
their laws to suit the convenience of man, and the
convenient bird theory will not go down very
long with the master who wants his flowers. I
saw a bed of seedlings three nights ago with the
rows full of stalks, husks of seeds, and small
holes. I held a post mortem inquest on the seed-
lings with two friends, and we could come to no
decision. The next dav I called my man and
asked his opinion. "Why, sir, it's the finches;
don't you see the husks of the Sunflowers. I
have driven them off ever so many times." I was
not satisfied, for no finch could have made the
holes 1 saw, unless he kept for the occasion a spare
beak about the size of a rook's. So I watched,
and in the evening killed off about 50 square feet
over 100 slugs. I told my man, and when he
went up later on with a candle he found the seed
bed swarming. The slug eats the seedling ; the
seedling withers ; the lob worm fetches down the
dead seedling ; the lob worm brings up the husk,
if any : the lob worm makes the hole ; the finch
is not in it. — J. VVhitworth Shaw, JVTeir Place,
Liwqfield, Surrey.

Obituary.

Mr. J. Walker. — We regret to announce the
death, at the age of 76, of Mr. J. Walker, of
Thame, Oxon. He died on Wednesday from an
attack of apoplexy. Visitors to the R.H.S. meet-
ings for many years past will have a vivid recol-
lection of the splendid blooms of Marechal Niel
Rose that he used to exhibit in the early months
of the year. Mr. Walker devoted much of his
time to the improvement of the Dahlia and Sweet
William, many fine varieties of each of which were
raised by him.

Death of Mons. D. Hooibrenk. — I regret
to inform you that M. Daniel Hooibrenk, a well-
known gardener, has just died at the ripe age of
83 years. A native of Holland, he went to Paris
and thence to Vienna, where he took charge of the
celebrated gardens of Baron Hiigel. From 1837
to 1849 he had charge of the famous collection of
plants. When Baron Hiigel gave up his gardens
and the collection of plants was dispersed, M. Hooi-
brenk started with a part of it as nurseryman, and
his work in gardening is well known. He was
nominated by His Majesty the Emperor of
Austria Knight of the Franz Josef's Order, and
Napoleon III. conferred on him the Order of the
Legion of Honour for a treatise on the cultivation
of the Vine.— Luris KRorATscn.

Beetles in the house.— Would " G. S. S."
kindly say a few words about enclosed insects ?
The larvre, which very much resemble wireworms,
occur here constantly in the coal-ashes under a
fireplace in a kitchen, and the beetle is pretty
often met with in various parts of the house. —
W. M.

*„* In reply to the above the insects you in-
quire about are the larva; and perfect insect of
the cellar or churchyard beetle (Blaps mortisaga),
a not uncommon but by no means abundant in-
sect. The larva- more resemble mealworms than
wireworms ; indeed, they are nearly related to
the former. More than once there have been in-
stances of the larvae having been ejected from
the stomach of a person. Westwood quotes two
cases : one was accounted for by the woman
having daily drunk for some time water mixed

with clay taken from a grave. This insect is
often found in cellars and outhoueeB and in
churchyards. They appear to love moisture and
darkness. It is curious that the larva- should be
found in such a dry place as the ashes under a
kitchen fireplace. Perhaps there may be some
cracks in the hearth beneath leading to holes in
which they find a congenial habitation, and where,
perhaps, some leakage from pipes or the boiler
may afford them moisture. One would think from
their long legs that the beetles were active, rapidly
moving insects, but the reverse is the case, and
they move about in the most demure fashion. The
beetles are long-lived and of great vitality ; they
have been known to recover even after havirg
been imprisoned in a bottle of spirits of wine for
twelve hours. I do not think they do any haim
in a house. If you wish to exterminate them I
should clear away any rubbish, &c, near their
haunts in which they can hide, and if there are
any cracks or places in the floor into which they
can creep, I should pour boiling water into tkem
and till them up with cement.— G. S. S.

Grubs in Strawberry ground. — I shall be
obliged if you will tell me the name of the larva-
sent, also the best means of destroying them. I
planted a large area to Sir Joseph Paxton and
President Strawberries in deeply trenched Grass
land done late in 1894 and early in 1895, Three
acres of the ground are planted to dwarf Apple
trees and bush fruits. They are looking very
well. The Strawberry plants daily disappear by
the 1O0. Half an acre I am planting Potatoes in.
The whole piece of ground appears to be fright-
fully infested. I found those sent under two
runner plants. — J. A. Porch.

%* In reply to the above, the grubs you en-
closed are those of the common daddy-longlegs
or crane fly (Tipula oleracea). They are most
difficult pests to destroy. It is not of much, if of
any use employing insecticides. Keeping the
ground well worked is useful in disturbing the
grubs and giving the birds a better chance of
getting at them. Nitrate of soda 2 cwt. to the
acre and well watered in helps the crop, and is
distasteful to the leather-jackets, as these grubs
are often called from the toughness of their
skins. Pieces of turf, slates, or tiles should bo
laid about near their haunts, as they often ream
about at night and creep under such things f< r
shelter during the day. These traps should lo
examined every morning. — G. S. S.

BOOKS RECEIVED.

" Les plantes alpines et de rocailles avec figures."
Par H. Correvou. Octave Doin, Paris.

Royal Gardens, Kew : Hand-list of Ferns and
Fern Allies, Cultivated in the Royal Gardens;
Official Guide to the Museums of Economic Botany.

" Manual of Forestry." W. Schlich. Vol. iii.
Forest Management. Bradbury, Agnew and Co.,
Ltd , 8 and 9, Bouverie Street. London.

"London Cata'ogue of Biitish Plants." G. Bell
and Sons, York Street, C'ovent Garden.

" Dictionnaire des orchidees hybrides." Par F.
Bohnaf. Octave Doin, Paris.

" Notes on the Distribution of the Amarylhdese and
other Liliaceous Plants in Graod Canary, Cuba,,
Jamaica, and Venezuela." ByA.Worsley. Wesley and
Son, Essex Street, Strand.

Book on British seaweeds.— Will any leader
kindly tell me whether there is any good book
published on British Feaweeds ? — Mari.ner.

Names of plants. — J. Henshau: — I. Amelanchur

canadensis; 2, Phlox verna J.B. — Loniceratataiica.

W. B. Hartland. — 7, not recognised ; 8, Tulipa

retroflexa. P. C. H. — 1, Amelanchier Botryapium ;

2, Daphne Lauieola; 3, Megasea cordifolia ; 4. Iris
pumila ; 5, Viola canina ; 6, Polemonium eceruleunj.
T. Ryan.— Orohanehe minor.

The Wild Garden: or, the Naturalisation and Eatu-.cl
grouping or Hardy Exotic Plants, vsith a chapter on the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, uith wood engravings
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged. lemy
Svo, linen cloth. Price 12s. ; well bound in half morocco, IBr.
Through alt booksellers.

THE GARDEN

335

No. 7226. SATURDAY, May 18,1895. Vol. XLVII.

"This Is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Bhokespeare.

Flower Garden.

PRIMULA ROSEA AND P. DENTICU-
LATA.

TnEsE two Himalayan Primroses have never
made a better show or been more healthy at
flowering time in my garden than this year. I
am so often asked how I manage them, that I am
induced to send this note for the benefit only
of those who are not already satisfied with their
success. In P. denticulata I include P. cash-
meriana and some other varieties with un-
authorised epithets added to the name. All of
them grow from the same seed and have
flowers ranging in colour from very pale to very
dark purple, and leaves more or less mealy,
according to accident P. rosei also varies
much in the intensity of the colour and the size
of the flower, but not otherwise. This species
also varies the name by superlative and super-
fluous Latin additions, and as any individual
plant may be multiplied at pleasure, growers
may choose the plant they prefer and keep it.

1 give notes on the treatment of P. rosea first.
The compact network of matted roots in this
species binding the coil beneath it into a solid
mass is a remarkable feature. The effect of this
is that two years after planting all the fcod
within 0 inches of the bottom of the plant has
been so completely exhausted, that the Primrose
dies of starvation. Life may last a year or two
longer, according to soil and circumstances, but
three years is its utmost limit in my garden.
The soil for growing it must be fine and reten-
tive and the situation sheltered, for though the
species is very hardy, the flowers are often quite
spoilt by spring frosts in exposed aspects. I
pn fer the north side of a wall or of a sheltered
slope, for spring frost is less injurious to flowers
facing north provided they are not exposed to
sweeping blasts. Seed gathered from the best
varieties may be sown as soon as ripe to get new
selections, but a group of seedlings does not
flower evenly or look as gay as a well-regulated
group of divided plants. Division is hardly
the right word for the treatment which P.
rosea requires. After flowering, the plants
should be dressed over the crowns with fine soil
to encourage surface-rooting ; then at any time
between June and August, choosing wet
weather, the clumps should be lifted, the mass
of old roots cut off within an inch of the base of
the leaves, and the plants carefully divided
iuto single crowns. The leaves must not be
injured, for if the leaf-growth is seriously
checked by withering or bruising, the pieces
may as well be thrown away. Till the leaves
are firm and growing again, the plants should
be shaded and well watered. I generally plant
them in wooden trays 6 inches deep. The
larger the number taken, say not less than
1000 at once, the less likely they are to be
neglected. If the first batch fails, try a second,
and a third. Each two-year-old plant will
supply twenty or thirty crowns, so there need
be no lack of mateiial. These pieces should
not be left too long — say not more than two
months— without replanting in the place in
which they are to remain, otherwise the roots
will get hopelessly matted together. At any
rate let them all be in their (lowering places by
the end of September, and do not expect them
to flower well for more than two seasons.

This process must be repeated every year ; the
garden will then be stocked with yearling and
two-year-old groups. This plan gives the best
results. Dividing the old plants after the
leaves are dead, in which case some of the old
roots must be left, is less troublesome, but less
successful. Last winter I tried dressing some
of the groups with superphosphate, say a
quarter of a pound mixed with a peck of soil to
each group. The result was an enormous crop
of flowers, two or three stalks with about thirty
flowers each, on every plant, but many of the
stalks were fasciated and the flowering was
almost overdone. Two-year-old plants not so
treated produce the same number of bunches,
each expanding twelve flowers at 0 inches high.
A good flower is just an inch across. This
may seem large, but my strain has been im-
proved by long selection. The above treatment
may be varied by way of experiment, but fre-
quent division in some way is a necessity.

P. denticulata is more easy to deal with, as it
is best when raised from seed. The finest heads,
both in size and colour, should be marked for
seed, which may be sown as soon as ripe ; it
comes up so freely, that one head will easily
give a thousand seedlings. When sown in June
it will seldom grow into flowering plants by
next spring, but the habit of root is so different
from that of P. rosea, the roots being few and
very long and large, that seedlings may continue
close together in the pans until of considerable
size or be planted out, a hundred or more in a
square yard, and selected according to their
size and forwardness for their flowering places.
Ihese, too, Buffer from frost only when in
bloom, and as they often try to flower soon
after Christmas, every means must be taken to
retard them, especially by transplanting late in
autumn before the flower-buds are formed.
After flowering, plants may be divided ; even
single crowns may be cut into quarters, or
plants may be beheaded, and a crop of young
ones will grow out of the stump of each root ;
but in spite of this great vital power, divisions
are apt to look shabby, and seedlings are far
better. This species sows itself, young ones
coming up all round almost as thickly as roui d
P. japouica, and these must be thinned before
floweiing ; but those which are allowed to re-
main, especially at the sides of shrubbery walks,
flower better than those transplanted. Above
all, clear away the old plants after two or at
most three flowerings, as they become shabby
and encumber the soil. The best show I have
this year is under Gooseberry bushes, where
they do not conduce to the encouragement of
gigantic fruit, but look very ornamental in early
spring, getting just enough shelter to save the
flowers. Neither of these species forces well,
but both are admirably adapted for cold frames,
doing better in roomy boxes than in pots. In
this way they may be made a useful ornament
for a conservatory in February and March. To
sum up, sufficiency of food and frequent re-
newal from a well-selected stock are the great
points to be attended to in maintaining a good
show of these early spring favourites.

Edge Ball, MaJpas. C. Wollev-Dod.

similar conditions L. nepalense, L. neilgherrense,
and L. sulphureum have all perished. The Ber-
muda Lily (Harrisi) and the Japanese forms of
L. longiflorum are also pushing up in a weak and
irregular manner. Up to the present, as far as
it has come under my own observation, L. Henryi
seems proof against the dreaded Lily disease,
which plays havoc with miny Lilies. A few
years ago L. eandidum and L. auratum were
about the only two liable to be attacked, but now
many species suffer greatly. Besides the two
above mentioned, I have seen established clumps
of L. davuricum, L. speciosum, and L. tignnum
dwindle away in the same disheartening manner.
In justice to L. speciosum, it should, however, be
mentioned that the clumps which perithed were
in close proximitv to some masses of L. auratum ;
whereas some other plants of L. speciosum at a
little distance therefrom were uninjured.— H. P.

Lilium Henryi. —As an all-round garden
Lily this bids fair to be one of the finest species
we have, as it is of such robust constitution that it
will thrive under conditions such as many Lilies
will absolutely refuse to grow in. The last winter,
too, should be a good test of its hardiness, and in
this respect, as far as my experience extends, it
stands before a great many, for a couple of bulbs
left in the open border without any protection
whatever are now growing beautifully — in fact,
much stronger than last year, while under exactly

NOTES ON SNOWDROPS.
The past winter has not been an ideal one for
Snowdrops, and the severe weather delayed so
many that their beauty was soon gone. The
kinds which flower in late autumn or early
winter were unusually late, and it was about
December before such Galanthi as octobrensis,
corcyrensis, and similar species or varieties
came into bloom. Frost and snow overtook
them before their flowering was over, and it
was wonderful how unscathed many of them
seemed when the snow departed. These kinds,
generally bad doers, seem all to grow well here.
T am sorry to say that G. Olgw, of which I pur-
chased a bulb at a good price in autumn, did
not flower. Careful examination of a consider-
able number of these autumn-flowering Snow-
drops leads one to the conclusion that there are
too many names among them, and that a re-
vision would be very desirable if it could be
obtained. I fear the prospect is not very
promising for this.

The other Snowdrops, as has already been
indicated, were so late that the bright weather
and sharp night frosts soon despoiled them of
their beauty. I regret to say that the Snow-
drop fungus has been more virulent this year,
and through its ravages I have lost some of my
most prized kinds. It has been more destruc-
tive among Snowdrops grown under the partial
shade of trees than among those in full sun,
and it is possible that a good "sun bath" may
be found beneficial in the way of prevention.
tt is very galling to see some of your b st
flowers failing a prey to this fungus and to feel
absolutely unable to prevent their decay. 1
think we have no newly-introduced Snowdrops
to say anything about, i.e., none of this years
introduction. Our generous friend Mr. \N hit-
tall does not seem to have met with any new
ones last year, although in other directions his
indefatigable exertions are doing much to in-
crease the interest and beauty of our gardens.
We are, however, better able to appraise the
merits of some sent the previous year. Of
these I think I have grown nearly all, although
some have not flowered even yet.

The Cassaba Snowdrop is one of the largest
and finest in my garden, having great, massive
flowers and long, broad leaves I have very
few bulbs of this variety, but should those 1
have be an average sample of this variety of
Elwesi, it should be one of the greatest acqui-
sitions to our gardens. The Aidin one, which 1
understand to be the one named Elwesi var
uno-uiculata, has not this year shown the bold,
defiant habit which distinguished it in 1894.
It has, however, developed other merits i.e.,
by producing a large number of flowers from
the same bulb, and by showing a marked ten-
rlencv to produce offsets. Bulbs of this variety,
v^kindly sent me -In 1894 by Mr. Whittad,

336

THE GARDEN1

[May 18, 1895.

present the bold habit this Snowdrop has the
first year after importation. The Kas Dagh
variety of Elwesi has improved considerably,
but is still not equal to some other varieties of
this handsome species. The Galanthus from
Samos seems rather tender and produces a
small, thin-petalled flower of the Elwesi type.
The one from Pluenika, Samos, seems even
more tender, having been badly cut by the
frost, and did not flower. That from Ananas
Dagh, which looked as if it might prove rather
like the (Jassaba one, did not flower this season
and seems entirely of weaker growth. One sent
me last year by Mr. Whittall as ochrospeilus
presents no points of difference by which it can
be distinguished from the typical Elwesi, and 1
think it possible that the collectors employed
by our benefactor may have made a mistake.
The Cassaba and Aidin Snowdrops are de-
cidedly acquisitions, and if the former has not
yet received a distinctive name, I hope it may
be honoured with the name of Mr. Whittall, as
it would be a pity if his interest in the Snow-
drops could not be marked in some such way.

Turning to other Snowdrops, I find there is
some criticism of G. Elwesi robustus, it being
said that it is not distinct enough to have a
varietal name. I must demur to this, as it is
quite distinct from the ordinary varieties of
Elwesi. It is of tall growth, bears large flowers,
and has great, broad leaves, much larger than
those of the ordinary forms. Its defects are
that the flowers, although large, are hardly
large enough for the plants, and its leaves are
not so elegant as one would desire. I should
rank it as inferior to the Cassaba Snowdrop, but
still as worth growing.

The Galanthus I received from the neighbour
hood of Broussa in 1893, and which was pro
nounced to be almost, if not quite the same as
byzantinus, has not, I am sorry to say, turned
out to be a good garden plant. It does not im-
prove under cultivation, and can hardly be con
sidered an acquisition. It looks like a natural
hybrid, and is particularly variable in leaf and
in time of flowering. G. Ikarire, on the other
hand, has shown its capabilities by withstanding
our last severe winter, and by its retaining its
good habit and distinct appearance. It is an-
other of Mr. Whittall's introductions, which
should- have been mentioned along with his
otheis. Of Mr. Allen's charming seedlings I
have some diffidence in speaking, inasmuch as
a number of those for which I have been in-
debted to the great kindness of the raiser have
only flowered for the first time this year, and
will not show their full beauty for another year
or so. One cannot, however, while admiring
them refrain from hoping that the dreaded
fungus may spare such lovely flowers as Talis-
man, Aurora, Elwesi Beauty, Galatea, and the
others in my garden. The yellow Snowdrops,
G. lutescens and G. flavescens, have been par-
ticularly pretty this year, their yellow ovaries
and markings of the segments being very pleas-
ing. G. nivalis poculiformis has also been
pleasing, and while G. Van Houttei within a
few inches of it has disappeared, this rather
delicate pure white variety is quite healthy.
One cannot understand the erratic way in which
G. plicatus and its varieties die off without any
apparent cause. The green Snowdrop, G.
virescens, grows upon one from year to year, as
also does the curious twin-spathed G. Scharloki,
while such tine flowers as G.Imperati,Atkinsi,and
G. Melvillei enlist our admiration from year to
year. I hope Mr. Allen and others who know
the Snowdrop better than I do may still give us
their experiences of the "early herald of the
infant year." The season is now over, but even
amid the delights of the present time with its

hosts of Daffodils, its Tulips and the maDy
other charming flowers of spring, we can surely
cast a look back upon the chastest flower of all,
the Snowdrop. S. Arnott.

Carsethom by Dumfries, N. B.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

April flowers. — A retrospect of the month's dis-
play in the hardy flower garden is always in-
structive, because there is a reminder to take
special note of those things that have been a suc-
cess with the view to increase them at the first
opportunity. The outdoor flowers of April, too,
are naturally the product of perfectly hardy
plants, and within the reach of all either in large
or small quantities. So far as the April flowering
shrubs are concerned, the display has been remark-
ably good, and in all cases where any one par-
ticular family or special varieties are wanted to-
gether in considerable numbers the effect has been
quite up to the average. In the matter of this
particular style of planting I do not mean huddling
them close together so that they lose their indi-
viduality ; this is by no means necessary. The
plants should stand just clear of each other and
be kept so by careful and judicious pruning, close
enough so that when viewed from a distance a
mass of colour is shown, and yet with a per-
ceptible drop between the plants so that a table-
like surface is avoided. The Ribes family rank
among the best of early-flowering shrubs, and some
of them seem as yet imperfectly known. San-
guineum is, of course, common enough, but it is
not the case with s. album and atro-rubens,
which flower with equal freedom and make a fine
display when planted in large clumps. All the
forms strike readily from cuttings and make
capital little bushes by the end of the second year.
Beautiful white-flowering shrubs of the same
season are Spirsa prunifolia and S. Thunbergi.
The foliage of the latter is of a very vivid green,
showing off to advantage the sprays of tiny white
flowers. A variety of colour is furnished by the
Cydonias in different shades of scarlet, pink,
flesh colour and white. I was afraid the two last-
named — and more especially the white — had been
seriously affected by the weather experienced in
February. It was, however, only a browning
of the buds, not enough to affect their de-
velopment, as all the varieties have flowered
splendidly. Yellow tints have been supplied
by Forsythia suspensa and F. viridissima, two
very useful April shrubs. The Daffodil is the
hardy flower of April, and, so far as the pre-
sent season is concerned, Barri conspicuus has
been the king of Daffodils. Other varieties both
in the trumpet and star sections may rank higher
as individual flowers, but for furnishing a grand
display en masse commend me to the above-named
sort. Flower -stems thrown up from strong
selected bulbs were of extraordinary vigour. I
did not measure any of them, but many must
have been close on 2 feet in length. The above
variety, as the statement indicates, was planted
at the end of last summer on a well-prepared
border. Common sorts naturalised where the soil
and situation have suited them have flowered well,
and as early varieties were kept in check by the
severe weather, April has been more than ever
the Daffodil month. The Doronicums have helped
to increase the prevailing yellow shades furnished
by Daffodils and some of the Polyanthuses, and
have flowered well. A very fine displa}' of pink
trusses of flower, both as to size and quality, is
still to be found on the old Megasea (Saxifraga)
cordifolia. I saw a lot of this the other day at
the back of a sloping border faced by a good
breadth of a terra-eotta-coloured Polyanthus, and
the effect was very pleasing. The white Arabis,
the purple Aubrietia, and Violas of similar shades
of colour also make an effective display when
associated with the Megasea. I said above the
Daffodil was the flower of April, but a thoroughly
good strain of Polyanthus runs it very close in-
deed, and personally I should prefer the latter.
A north-west border 200 yards long by 4 feet wide

has been a lovely sight, and furnished us with a
wonderful wealth of cut flowers. The plants were
arranged as near as possible in colours for the
sake of seed-saving, but a general mixture is the
more effective. If all the different shades are well
mixed together, the result is a beautiful dis-
play that can hardly be furnished by any other
flower.

Wall plants. — There has been a general look
round the walls during the past week in order to
remove any plants or portions of the same that
failed to stand against the severity of the past
winter, and although the losses are fortunately
not heavy, one or two things are gone that we did
not care to lose. The silver variegated Buck-
thorn is one ; the portion of wall furnished, by the
same always looked bright, and the long stems
were very useful occasionally in a cut state.
Fortunately there are some vigorous Dijon Roses
on either side the Buckthorn that will cpjickly
fill the vacant place. Lonicera flexuosa is en-
tirely gone, and the golden Lonicera growing on
the stem of an old Judas tree is badly ciippled.
We shall get some back-breaks on this Japanese
Honeysuckle that will give a bit of life to the
plant, but there is no prospect that the trunk of
the old Cercis will be clothed from base to sum-
mit with a mass of foliage and flower as in pre-
vious years. It is not as yet an easy matter to
estimate the damage on the varieties of Ceanothus.
As stated in previous notes, these get very little
pruning, with the exception of weeding out
weakly stuff, and, so far as the strong shoots that
were left are concerned, they seem to be cut back
close to the branches, but there are signs of break-
ing away at the base of each shoot. The remarks
already made as to the bush plants of Cydonias
are applicable to those on walls, the buds were so
brown as to lead to the inference that flowers
would be ver}' scarce, especially on the white
variety. This, however, is not the case; the plants
have been literally covered with bloom, and sinco
the expansion they have not, as last year, had an
exceptional frost to bring the flowering season to
an abrupt termination. Roses on walls have not
suffered at all with us, except in the one or two
instances where they were exposed to the full
force of the very bitter winds. Roses in variety
are undoubtedly the most useful wall plants we
have, the little shelter brings them along rather
earlier, and the flowers from the wall hit the
season between those produced under glass and
others that are growing, as the ordinary standard
and bush forms, on the open quarter.

Claremont. E. Burrell.

Daphne Blagayana has come through the
trying winter and kept on flowering since the
latter end of Maich. Light, but moist vegetable
soil seems to suit it. The only needful thing to
do in the case of strong specimens is to first find
the stems near the older part of the plant, then
sever them and leave tbem in situ. This done
soon after flowering and the severed offsets left
until September will cause them to develop plenty
of new fibre, and render them fit for being dealt
with separately. — J. Wood.

White Stocks. — These are now to be seen in
quantity in Covent Garden Market. The Bromp-
ton and the East Lothian are both grown, but the
latter is the favourite. For several months past
this Stock has been offered in the London markets,
but of course not in such abundance as at the
present time. For purity and fragrance nothing
can excel a good strain of Lothian Stock. The
blooms can be used individually, wired up for
wreaths and bouquets, or the spikes can be em-
ployed for decoration. For early blooming the
seed must shortly be sown and the young plants
shifted along, so as to get them well established in
0-inch or 7-inch pots by the autumn. They can
then be subjected to a mild forcing temperature.
This is the surest way of getting early bloom, but
for a main supply a simpler method is pursued.
The plants are put out under glass in autumn, and
under such circumstances they give a wealth of
bloom in April and up to June. — J. C. B.

May IS, 1835 1

THE GARDEN.

337

YUCCA RECURVA.
Those who seek sub-tropical eflects and place
tender plants in the open air for that object
often neglect the noble hardy plants, of which
there is a good selection, capable of making
striking pictures of luxuriant vegetation, with
few or none of the disadvantages entailed in the

time of the year. When from the centre of this
great crown of leaves the flower-spike, rising
several feet high, becomes a pyramidal mass of
sweet, ivory-white flowers, no hardy flowering
plant can compare with it in beauty. This
Yucca should be frequently planted in our
gardens, so as to have specimens of different

Yucca recurva. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by Mr. J. Pulhar.

Broxbourne.

use of plants tint can only be placed outside in
summer. The Yucca family is a host in itself,
and one of the very best Yuccas is that here
illustrated. In all states, young or old, with its
graceful curving tufts of leaves rising from the
ground or borne high on the stout stem, it is
always a handsome plant and effective at any

ages succeeding each other in flower year after
year. It grows best in a warm, well-drained
soil such as that of the Thames valley. When
one of the evening fetes was held at Chiswick
some years ago, a dozen of these Yuccas were
a 1 in flower at one time, and the picture was
one not likely to be forgotten by those who saw

them. It is easily increased by detaching its
fleshy root crowns, which soon make strong
young plants if started in a frame or greenhouse.
It is well to examine large plants after a fall of
snow and shake out any that remains in the
crown, as if a thaw by day is followed by frost
at night, much damage will be done.

APRIL IN SOUTH DEVON.
The mean temperature of April, although 3° be-
low that of April, 1894, was 1 -3° above that of the
average for the last seventeen years, which is
46-5*. On only one day (the 13th) did the ther-
mometer on the grass drop below freezing point,
and then only by one-tenth of a degree, though
on three occasions — the 1st, 2nd and loth of the
month — the mercury fell to 32°. Rain has fallen
on thirteen days to the extent of '243 inches,
against 2"39 inches on seventeen days during April,
1894, the average rainfall for April being 2 69
inches. The total fall recorded during the first
four months of 1S95 is 965 inches, as compared
with 1022 inches for the corresponding period of
1894. As regards sunshine, April, 1895, has
proved almost a counterpart of April, 1S94 — 166
hours 40 minutes of sunshine having been re-
corded this year and 166 hours 30 minutes last
year. From January 1 to May 1 there have been

491 hours 40 minutes' sunshine against 502 hours
35 minutes during the same four months of 1894.
The total horizontal movement of the wind has
been 6339 miles, the greatest daily total being

492 miles on the 6th — an average of 20'5 miles per
hour. The greatest hourly velocity was registered
between 11 a.m. and noon on the same day, when
the rate of 41 miles per hour was reached. The
wind has blown from the south or west for eighteen
days, and on twelve days from north or east.

In the flower garden April is a month of promise
as well as of bloom — promise in the swelling buds
of the Pa-onies, in the ascending spikes of the
Lilies, from the sturdy growth of L. giganteum,
that bursts up through the earth as big as a man's
fi*t, to the slender shoot of L canadense ; promise
in the glaucous sheaths that enfold the Iris blos-
soms, while for bloom we have the families of the
Narcissi, the Hyacinths and the Tulips ; and what
a thrill of delight at vivid colouring is given
by the glowing scarlet of a mass of Tulip Ver-
million Brilliant. The tall Crown Imperials per-
fected their pendent bells of pale yellow and of
red, in the bases of which lay quivering the
single drops of moisture that the children call
"toads' tears." Narcissi, always a joy, have not
given us such a lavish display as usual, Stella
being the only variety that has bloomed profusely.
Poppy Anemones have been mostly a failure, such
foliage as was above ground at the end of the year
being destroyed by the long frost. Anemone ful-
gens, than which no handsomer variety exists,
after the first year invariably flowers poorly, fresh
roots having to be procured yearly if a good effect
is to be secured. The Dondia covered a corner of
the rockery with a carpeting of its quaint fiowerp,
which formed a striking contrast to the fragile
white blossoms of Thalictrum anemonoides that
was blooming hard by, while Anemone ranun-
culoides, with its bright Buttercup like flowers,
made a charming patch of gold in the back-
ground. This Anemone is not grown so largely
as its merits deserve, and should certainly not be
neglected by those who grow A. apennina, the
two varieties flowering at the same time. The
little Grape Hyacinths, of which Ruskin writes
that the flower is " as if a cluster of Grapes and a
hive of honey had been distilled and compressed
together into one small box of celled and beaded
blue," lifted battalions of their scented spikes
from the brown earth, which towards the end of
the month was on all sides carpeted with the
azure of the Forget-me-not. In the lanes and
hedgerows the white Violets were a full month
later in their arrival than was the case last year,
the Primroses, however, making up for their
tardiness by blossoming in unwonted profusion.
Now that the sap is running strongly, the mis-

338

THE GARDEN

[May 18, 1895.

chief that hap been wrought by the severe winter
can be seen on all sides. Ceanothuees and shrubby
Veronicas are mostly killed. Escallonia monte-
vidensis is dead, and so are Benthamia fragifcra
and Rhus Cotinus, while E.-callonia macrantha
and Berberis Darwini have been very badl} cut,.
Curiously enough, ('hoisya ternata in a very < \-
posed situation is merely a little brown at the
tips of the leaves, thus proving a much hardier
subject than was at one time thought.

Apple and Pear trees are looking well and are
full of blossom, appearances at present promising
well for a good fruit crop. S. VV. F.

THE ROCK GARDEN.
VII.

April 30. — During the past week the tem-
perature has b in much cooler and rain has
fallen in abundance. Sunny hours have been
few and far between, and, as a natural conse-
quence, the number of fresh plants in bloom is
not, so large as it might have been. There are,
however, among the new arrivals several hand-
some and interesting kinds, man}' of them well
adapted for being grouped together for com-
bined effect.

Tiny Gems in Bloom.

Last week I mentioned several choice Aiidro-
saces which might be grouped together in the
select part of the rock garden. These are still
in bloom, and as yet have lost but little of their
beauty. The choicest rock plans which have
opened here this week are Eritrichiutn nanum,
Saxifraga calvcitlora, and S. aretioides ; these
go exceedingly well together, and are also very
fit companions for the Androsaces abend}' men-
tioned, although 'luy commence to bloom a
week later. Eritrichium nanum (the little Fairy
Forget-me-not) is doubtless a gem of the Hist
water, with its peculiar cushion of hairy foliage
and its bright blue flowers. A great drawback
is the difficulty in its cultivation. It floweis
and thrives in the rock garden easily enough
during the summer months, when it loves also
plenty of moisture at its roots, but during the
winter it is so susceptible to wet that even a
few drops of rain on its hiisute foliage may be
sufficient to cause its death. The be it way of
planting the Eritrichium is to put if into an
almost vertical fissure, so arrangt-d that the
roots can have plenty of mois'ure ami no water
can rest on the foliage, which latter might
during the winter receive the additional protec-
tion of a piecu of glass. Saxifraga calyciflora
(from the Pyrenees i is a very distinct and hand-
some plant; its shot t and comparatively broad
encrusted leaves are poin'ed at the apex and
arranged in a somewhat elongated rosette, from
the centre of which the bright red bracts and
flowers are produced on a stout st m 3 inches
high. It does not grow well in ordinary soil and
objects to limestone, but when planted between
two stones and into gritty soil which has re-
ceived an abundant admixture of broken Hints
or granite it does remarkably well, e<pi cially in
a sunny position. Saxifraga aretioides is also
from ihe Pyrenees, at d an excellent companion
to the former. Its flowers are deep yellow,
and its stem and calyx are partly tinted a
bronzy brown. The very minute leaves are
arranged in tiny silv. ry rosettes packed to-
gether so closely as to resemble more an Andro-
sace helvetica than a Saxifrage. It does best
in a sloping position where it would be well
drained. Saxifraga lantoscana supeiba, which
is also just coming into bloom, cannot he called
a "tiny" gem, as it grows more rapii ly tl an
either of the varieties mentioned. Its rosettes
of handsome encrusted leaves and its compact
spike of large pure white flowers are, however,

so beautiful, that it deserves a good position in
the select part of the rock garden.

Other Rock Plants in Bloom.

The following plants now blooming in various
rock gardans in ibis county would be too rapid in
their growth to !>■■ associated with the smallest
plants ; they are, however, indispensable in the
rock garden, and it is well to allow them the
space they require if other plants are not to be
endangered. Dryas octopetala quickly forms a
spreading evergieen carpet, now studded with
large white flowers ; it loves a moist and sunny
position, and is best adapted for level ground.
Dryas Drummondi, with yellow flowers, and
Dryas lanata, with cream coloured flowers and
sbghtly woolly leaves, are good companions for
the former, and also now blooming. Another
carpeting plant too well known to need any
further description is Arenaria balearica, which
is more suitable f< r covering stones, to which
it clings very closely, especially in a half-
shady position. Gentiana acaulis, the com-
monest, but after all the very best of all
Gentians for forming large masses, is in
splendid form just now. A moist position and
gritty soil are what it loves best. Another
charming blue flower is Veronica satureioides ;
it has very small leaves and upright racemes of
flowers ; not only the peta's, but also the
stamens are blue and bear purple anthers dis-
charging whitish pollen. Rhodiola rosea is in
full bloom ; its glaucous leaves and yellow flowers
remind one of Sedum. It is, however, not an
evergreen, but is invisible during winter. The
alpine Forget-me-not (Myosotis alpestris) is also
in bloom, its blue flowers forming a capital con-
trast to the large white blossoms of Ranunculus
amp'exicaulis. This, by the way, does not spread
very fast, and to make an t ffeetive group several
should be planted close together. It is a very
desirable plant, seldom growing more than 9
inches high. Ranunculus gramineus, with grass-
like foliage and yellow flowers (much smaller
than those of R. amplexicaulis), is also effective.
Saxifraga Wallacei and many others of the larger
kinds of Saxifrages now begin to show their
white flowers to great advantage. These will
grow in almost any soil and in any position, and
are best adapted for growing in masses not on,
but between the more massive rocks and carpet-
ing the bare toil between larger plants. The
double form of Saxifraga grauulata is very
pretty with its double white flowers, but it is
not an evergreen. Tiarella cordifolia, the
Foam Flower, is best assigned to a semi- wild
spot in the background of the rock garden, where
it may ramble as it pleases under the shade of
shrubs. A half-shady spot might be reserved
for the vigorous American Violet, Viola cucul-
lata, and its white form, Viola cucullata alba.

Laroe Plants in Bloom.

There are several of the larger plants now
blooming which will grow in ordinary soil, and
might with good effect be arranged as single
specimens or in colonies on open spaces between
the groups of rocks. There are for sunny places
the yellow Stylophorum diphyllum, Anemone
narcissiflora. with pure white flowers ; Geum
inontanum, yellow ; Doroniium excelsum, yel-
low ; and the handsome varieties of Megasea,
such as M. crassifolia and M. purpurea, with
pink and purple flowers and evergreen, large,
leathery leaves, most suitable for bold effects.

In moist soil and in a half-shady position the
handsome Mertensia virginica is now in full
blot in, with its drooping raceme of blue flowers.

Exeter. F. W. Meyer.

(To be continued.)

SEEDLING DAFFODILS.

I send a few seedling Dallodils, some of which,
as will be perceived, are from the old double
and vary somewhat in form and colour. I have
often thought that the old Ajax Telamonius
might be improved, and in one respect I may
claim to have made a step forward. One of my
seedlings, which resulted from crossing the old
double with the Tenby, blooms from ten days to
a foitnight earlier than the old form. 1 have
over a period of five years proved this early-
flowering character to be fixed and not in any
way dependent on the weather. Growing side
by side, this seedling is invariably nearly or quite
a fortnight in advance. Everyone knows how
valuable the old double yellow is for growing
under glass. A form of it, that naturally flowers
two weeks earlier than the type ought to be use-
ful. I (eel confident that this will at some
future time be in favour as a market Datlodil
both under glass and in the open air. Florists
to whom I have supplied flowers of it are of
this opinion. I have also a seedling which is
as regards time of flowering just the reverse of
the preceding. It comes into full flower just
as the old Ajax is passing away, so that these
two varieties extend the blooming period of this
Daffodil nearly or quite a month. This late
blooming form has very big flowtrs, which, as
will be seen by the bud enclosed, are wonderlully.
vigorous, even more so than in the parent.
The old double Daffodil can be established
with ease in the meadow, woodland, or
orchard ; it flourishes in all soils, and is so effec-
tive when in bloom, that I think all lovers of
flowers, and particularly of Daffodils, would
desire to prolong its flowering period. The
parti- coloured double flowers, which are com-
posed of white and yellow petals, represent an
attempt to raise double white Daffodils. I
hope they are a step in the right direction, for
I see no insuperable obstacle to obtaining a race
of double white varieties having large blooms
and of robust, vigorous constitution. The
flowers sent are from the same pod of seed and
vary, as will be seen, in doubleness. They are
the produce of small bulbs but four years old
from the seed. In a general way seedling Daffo-
dils take from five to seven years to flower, and
in my experience they do not attain to their
full bloom-bearing powers until they are a
couple of years older. The plants that gave
these flowers are very green and vigorous look-
ing, and I am, I think, justified in assuming
that in due course they will yield blooms double
the size of those sent. The small flowers are
from obvallaris and nanus ; this cross gives
quite a succession of bloom. The single yellow
trumpet is from Emperor, but I am not
aware with what it was fertilised. It seems
to be as good as its parent, and is about
ten days earlier than that grand Daffodil.
It will probably be bigger another season.
Being so early, fine in colour and remark-
ably vigorous, it ought to make a good n arket
Daffodil. Last season the question was asked
in The Garden whether it would be profitable
to raise sulphur-coloured Daffodils between ob-
vallaris and ceinuus. This I have done, the
progeny having a long trumpet and standing out
boldly from the flower-stem in the manner of
obvallaris. I include a bloom of the Irish form
of Ajax Telamonius, which is distinguished
by the unbroken trumpet. It is, I believe,
found in two or three localities only in Ireland,
from one of which I got my bulbs. I have
never seen this vaiiety in English gardens and
am rather at a loss to account for its existence,
but should imagine that either soil or climate
has through a series of years acted on the
original form. I should not suppose it to be a

Mat 18, 1895. J

THE GARDEN

339

seedling, for with me it varies considerably, a
good many of the flowers occasionally reverting
to the old form, whilst in some years nearly every
bull) produces flowers with unbroken trumpets.
It is, I believe, in a naturali-ed state in the
vicinity of old monastic or castle gardens that
this form has been found, and in soil of a semi-
boggy character. This is what I have been
told by those who have seen it growing, and
every flower comes like that enclosed. When
March and the early part of April are very fine,
a large proportion of the flowers bursts, but
in a cool, late spring like this nearly every
bloom comes true to character. The pale col-
oured flower is from obvallaris and cernuus. We
have many white-flowered Daffodils, but they
are not quite so robust as might be wished, and
are somewhat fastidious as regards soil. We
want good white Daffodils that will flourish in
any soil and that can be naturalised in the
Grass or woodland — that are, in fact, as vigor-
ous and reliable as the Tenby, Princeps, or Old
Double. J. Cornhill.

Honesty. — There appear to be three dis-
tinct varieties of this charming biennial, the

the clumps are wholly denuded. The soil in this
garden is of a dark sandy nature. Very often
where Christmas Roses succeed fairly well with-
out special attention being paid to them the}'
might succeed better by supplying them liberally
with moisture during the month of May when
new leaves are being made, should the weather be
hot and dry at that time. I notice plants that
make abundant leafage annually give a better
crop of blossom than those which make hardly
any new leaves. I find mulchings of freshly
gathered horse manure beneficial if applied early
in May. — E. M.

Stove and Greenhouse.

DECORATIVE PELARGONIUMS.
Exclusive of the zonal, nosegay and Ivy-leaved
forms so often spoken of as Geraniums, the
different Pelargoniums are for convenience sake
divided into several sections, but opinions differ
as to the place that should be assigned them,
their parentage being in a very mixed state. At
one time only the large-flowered or show section

Pelargonium Dr. Andre.

early crimson, the deepest coloured of all, the
ordinary pale purple, and the white. Some plants
will come among the ordinary purple bearing
flowers partly white and partly purple, probably
the result of crossing through insect agency, but
anyone who desires to keep the varieties true to
character should not save seed from such. I have
grown plants of all the three varieties of Honesty
for years, but I scarcely ever before Faw them so
much injured by frost as in the early part of this
year ; the plants appeared to be hopelessly killed
and were little better than rotten stumps. Yet
there was a reserve of vitality in them, and it was
astonishing to see how they rallied and put forth
new growth when warm weather set in. Patches
of the three colours now in full bloom are very
effective. — R. D.

Christmas Roses. — I have no doubt that the
soil in which the roots are growing has much to
do with the repeated failures of Christmas Roses
in some gardens. I know a garden where some
hundreds of plants, including nearly all the va-
rieties, have been planted at various times, and
in spite of the care bestowed in planting not one
single clump is in a satisfactory condition at the
present time. Not only have the plants been tried
in various parts of the garden, but they have been
planted in specially prepared compost in large
tubs with similar results. In this case the roots
are first affected, changing to a dark colour and
finally rotting. The leaves next follow suit until

was generally cultivated, and the members of
this group still hold their own. A good show
flower is almost round, with the edges of the
i petals smooth. The two upper petals of these
show varieties are blotched with a deep colour,
often nearly black, and frequently to such an
extent that they are almost entirely of that tint.
The three lower petals are without spots or
blotches, while in many cases the flower has a
large white eye often spotted with violet. The
individual blooms of the best show varieties are
large and brightly coloured — indeed, some of the
richest tints of all are to be found in this section ;
but in the case of the brightest-coloured forms
few flowers are borne in a truss, and the con-
stitution of the plant is, as a rule, weak, so that
most of them run up tall and thin. This is to
a great extent the result of continuous inter-
crossing. A decided break away from these
show varieties was made forty years ago or
thereabouts, when the French raisers sent a
number of new forms to this country. Although
the blooms did not conform to the standard of
show flowers, yet the plants were free in growth,
profuse in bloom and of good habit, in addition
to which the individual flowers had in many
cases the edges of the petals prettily crisped and
undulated ; the colour also varied, and in some
cases each petal had in the centre a clear and

distinct blotch and in others this spot was
limited to the three lower ones. Some again
were without any decided spot. A good example
of these French Pelargoniums is that here illus-
trated— Dr. Andre, which is a very old variety,
but still one of the best that we have. A quarter
of a century ago the recognised sections into
which Pelargoniums were divided consisted of
show, French or spotted, and fancy, but soon
afterwards the name of regal Pelargoniums
was bestowed upon a group that sprang into
existence about that time. The flowers of these
regal Pelargoniums were large and consisted of
an unusual number of massive petals, the earliest
examples of them being Captain Raikes, Queen
Victoria and Beauty of Oxton. As this group
became popular the term "regal " was applied to
many that had no claim to the designation. Then
asensible suggestion was acted upon by many, and
those sectionsknownas French, spotted and regal
were, in common with the popular market forms,
all included under the head of decorative Pelar-
goniums, thus leaving only the show, fancy,
and decorative groups. The best of these decora-
tive varieties are of great use to the gardener
who has to keep a structure gay at all seasons,
their great variety in the form and colour of
the flowers and other features rendering them
as a group more interesting than a corresponding
number of show varieties in which there is less
variety in the shape of the flower and its mark-
ings. Pelargoniums, especially the decorative va-
rieties, usually form a conspicuous feature at
the Temple show, two of the largest contri-
butors within the London district being Messrs.
Hayes, of Edmonton, and Mr. H. J. Jones, of
Lewisham. The plants are not remarkably
large, for pots 6 in. to 6 in. in diameter, so
popular with market growers, are the sizes
principally used, and Messrs. Hayes have for
many years been noted for the beautiful little
flowering examples that they grow in pots only
4 inches in diameter. There are a great num-
ber of desirable varieties, but as tastes differ in
this respect, a good plan is to inspect a collec-
tion when in bloom and make a selection there-
from. In selecting any particular variety, the
habit of the plant should be especially taken
into consideration. With the present wealth
of varieties there is no need to grow plants
of weak constitution. Some of the fancy
varieties are decidedly pretty and bloom most
profusely, but they are not grown to any creat
extent. H. P.

Ivy-leaved Geraniums. — These appear to
be finding more favour for a variety of purposes
in many gardens, but it is more particularly to
their value for covering back walls of vineries
that I should like to draw attention. After hav-
ing tried Roses, Figs, and almost all fruiting or
flowering plants on these back walls none have
proved so generally satisfactory as Ivy- leaved
Geraniums. Roses are prone to insect pests,
Camellias get troubled with scale, and seldom
flower well under the shade of Vines. Figs are
not very prolific in such a position ; in fact, a
long list might be given of plants that are prac-
tically a failure, but Ivy-leaved Geraniums are
certainly an exception. In a range of three
vineries we have the back walls clothed with
these plants in variety, and it is astonishing the
quantity of flowers they give from the end of
February to the middle of June. The only insect
foe that ever appears on the plants is aphis, which
sometimes comes soon after the Vines are started,
but a good fumigation soon disposes of the enemy
and we are not troubled with it again for the
season. Some state that thrips attack the foliage,
but since planting them nine years ago not a
thrip has been discovered upon them. When the
vineries are cleaned and made ready for starting
again, the plants are well cut back and some of

340

THE GARDEN

[Mat 18, 1895.

the growth removed entirely. No further labour
is required beyond tjing in a few leading shoots
to cover the wall, all the other growths are al-
lowed to hang down loosely, as they are less
formal and do not give the wall a stiff appearance,
and when in flower they present one mass of
colour. By planting a mixture of varieties, ar-
ranged so that the different colours will have the
best effect, a charming combination can be ob-
tained. At the head of the list I place Souvenir
de Charles Turner, as it is one of the best wall
plants, being vigorous and very free, flowers
large, deep rose, nearly scarlet, and of perfect
form. Louis Thibaut is very free flowering and a
good grower, flowers cerise in colour. Ryecroft
Surprise is a splendid variety, flowers of a fine
salmon colour, trusses and pips very large. Mme.
Emile Galle is, I think, the best white, the flowers
large and freely produced. Other varieties could
be named, but the above four have proved the
best with me. — W. G. C.

Malmaison Carnations. — In a private gar-
den in this neighbouihood I lately saw an excel-
lent lot of the ordinary form of Souvenir de Mal-
maison Carnation. The plants are in 6-inch pots,
are green as Leeks, with foliage down to the rim
of the pots. They have been flowering since last
November up to the present time, and will evi-
dently continue to do so for a couple of months
longer. They are the best lot of plants of the
size I ever saw. It may be remembf red that I
have more than once expressed the belief founded
on experience that the best results in the case of
the Souvenir and winter-blooming Carnations are
to be had from two year- old plants. From plants
layered the preceding summer and put intoo inch
pots early in the year one may get good blooms,
but the amount obtained from the space is not
nearly so great as can be had from older ones.
The plants above-mentioned were put into the
pots in which they are blooming over eighteen
months ago. They have not run up leggy, but
are comparatively dwarf, and carry about a dozen
flower-stems each, the blooms opening well, with-
out the objectionable eye that characterises this
Carnation when the plants are not in good con
dition. They are grown in the open air all
through the summer months. My impression is
that only plants of this description are really
profitable. — J. C. B.

Calceolaria Burbidgei. — Notwithstanding
the fact that the raiser of this Calceolaria could
never do much with it as a pot plant (as detailed
in The Garden, p. 306), each recurring season
it is very fine at Kew grown in this way, and
forms an ornamental feature in the greenhouse
throughout the greater part of the autumn and
winter. Of course, large pots are used, and
the plant runs up to a height of 4 feet or more,
but it produces a great number of stems and a
very large quantity of blossoms. It is a useful
subject where glass structures have to be kept
gay at all seasons, and its soft yellow blossoms
are quite distinct from those of any of its
associates, which at that season of the year are
none too numerous. Though this Calceolaria is
readily propagated, yet, in common with its
parents, it cannot be easily obtained from any
dealers in plants ; the reason given is that sub-
jects such as this are sought after only by lovers
of out-of-the-way plants ; hence the demand for
them is so limited that it does not pay to keep
them in stock. This is in all probability cor-
rect, as, despite the great number of plants
available for greenhouse decoration, the kinds
grown in many gardens are very limited, the
usual selection of Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Petu-
nias, Heliotropes, Lobelias, Begonias of all classes,
and such things being, as a rule, very generallj'
met with.— H. P.

Carnation notes. — The present is an anxious
time with growers of tree Carnations, as early-
struck plants in small pots will need attention in
the way of repotting and staking, and there is
usually at this season a press of other work. An
extra effort, however, should be made to get them
shifted before becoming pot-bound, or they are

liable to refuse to grow away freely and sometimes
turn yellow and sickly. Before removing them I
always like to fumigate slightly twice, giving the
foliage a good syringing after each dose, as the
nights are often cold all through May. I prefer
keeping the plants in a very cool, airy house until
quite the end of the month ; I then stand the pots
on ashes in frames, airing carefully at first, and in
June drawing the lights off by day, tilting them
up during wet weather. Towards theend of June
the plants should be ready for their floweiing pots
and for standing out of doors in a sunny position
on a bed of coal ashes. Great care is needed at all
times in watering Carnations, but more especially
after potting and until new roots are working
freely in the new soil. If wet weather sets in I
sometimes turn the pots on their sides for a few
dayp, as at this date, if the soil once becomes
soddened the whole batch will be liable to perish.
Good, light, fiiable soil suits Carnations best. I
always use the trimmings cf pleasure-ground
walks and drives. This contains a good per-
centage of grit, and after having lain twelve
months it is fit for use without any addition, save
a little leaf-mould. — J. C.

GREENHOUSE ARAUCARTAS.
Of the numerous species of Araucarias that are
in cultivation only one, A. imbricata (the
Chilian Monkey Puzzle), can be considered
hardy in this country, all the others requiring
the protection of a greenhouse, and some of
them are very popular for growii g under glass,
the most generally grown is the Norfolk Island
Pine,

Araucaria excelsa, which when fully de-
veloped will reach a height of 150 feet or more,
and yet when not more than a foot high forms a
beautifully symmetrical-shaped specimen ; hence
it is very popular for table decoration, for fur-
nishing vases indoors, and such like purposes.
Owing to its popularity considerable quantities of
seeds have been imported within the last few
years, so that it ran now be obtained at a cheaper
i ate than was at one time the caae, but for small
specimens seedlings are not much sought after,
as they are not so well furnished at the base as
plants raised from cuttings. The cuttings, of
course, must not be formed of the side shoots, as
they will never make a symmetrical-shaped plant,
the leading shoots only being chosen for the pur-
pose. Where this Araucaria is propagated in
quantity old stock plants are usually kept for the
supply of cuttings, that is to say, plants that
have become bare at the base or outgrown the
space allotted to them. If the tops of these
plants are cut off they will usually push out two
or three or even more leaders, all of which directly
they are firm enough may be taken as cuttings.
These stock plants will continue to yield shoots in
this way to a greater or less extent for years,
and in this manner a large quantity of healthy
young plants may be obtained. The cuttings
need to be put into small pots of sandy soil and
placed in a close propagating frame till rooted.
Given conditions favourable to growth and ample
space for the development of the plants, they will
form equally symmetrical specimens, whether a
couple of feet high or ten times that height.
Hence they are very popular for large conserva-
tories, and with care may be kept in health for
years in a large pot or tub. Individual plants of
this Araucaria vary a good deal from each other
in many particulars, and some well-marked forms
are in cultivation. One variety, glauca, has the
foliage of a rich glaucous hue, and when a good
form is obtained it is a really striking plant
Another beautiful variety is robusta, and a well-
marked one is alba spica, but as regards its
beauty opinions vary. The young growth of this
is white, changing when mature to green, but
the entire plant lacks the vigour of the type, and
is, generally speaking, as an ornamental plant
inferior to it.

Araucaria Bidwilli (the Bnnya-Bunya Pine of
Eastern Australia) is a very distinct species, but

one not often met with, for in a small state it has
a loose, ungainly appearance, at least in most
instances, though occasionally a neater growing
individual may be met with. The leaves are
lanceolate, very sharply pointed, and • f a deep
glossy green colour, it is more fitted for large
structures such as the temperate hou e at Kew,
and under such conditions it forms a handsome
dense growing specimen of the richest green.
From 6 feet upwards, this Araucaria shows more
of its true character than it does below that
height.

Araucaria Rulei is a beautiful and distinct
species with wide spreading branches and parti-
ally drooping branchlets. The leaves are thick
and dark green, while the entire p'ant has a
massive stately appearance. It is very beautiful
when not more than a yard high, but is equally
effective as a larger specimen. A thrivir g plant
of this Araucaria always commands a good price.
There is a variety of A. Rulei known as elegans,
far more slender in all its parts than the type, but
it is usually unhappy-looking and in no way de-
sirable. Nearly allied to A. Rulei is A. Goldieana,
whose foliage is more slender than that of A.
Rulei, but intermediate forms are sometimes to be
met with.

A. Cukmnghami, one of the most useful timber
trees of Queensland, has needle-like leaves as in
A. excelsa, but instead of the branches being
arranged in a regular frond-like manner as in that
kind, those of A. Cunninghami are more tufted
and clustered, thus giving to the plant altogeiher
a more irregular outline, which is maintained when
the specimen attains tree-like dimensions. It is
more effective over 4 feet to 5 feet than it is under
that height. One variety, glauca, is very attrac-
tive by reason of its silver}' foliage.

A. CoOKI, which is a native of New Caledonia,
has the finest and softest foliage of any of the
Araucarias, and it requires rather more care and
attention than most of the others. The branches
are numerous even on small plants, and well fur-
nished with partially drooping branchlets, which
in their turn are thickly clothed with short awl-
shaped leaves. If this Araucaria is at all
neglected, the fol'age quickly acquires ayellowish
hue, and it is then very difficult to restoieit to its
normal tint.

A. brasiliensis is a common tree in some parts
of Brazil, but it is very little grown in this
country, its ornamental qualities not being of a
high order. T.

Kitchen Garden.

ROOT GALL IN TOMATOES.
We enclose a root of Tomato infested with club.
The plants have been put out two months and
have been looking well until now. The plants
flag during the day, and on examining the roots
we have found them as per sample sent. Can you
suggest a remedy ': — Hubert & Mauger, Chitritsey.
*„* A bad case of root gall, the same being
caused by Heterodera radicola, a minute worm
said to be allied to Trichina;. When the roots are
taken possession of by these murh-to-be-dreaded
nematodes, or eel-worms, and which serve not so
much as a feeding as a breeding ground, they
soon become badly swollen, ceasing then to fulfil
their natural functions. It is during bright
weather that evaporation of moisture by the foli-
age goes on the most briskly, and the roots fading
to supply this in sufficient quantities, flagging
and a general breakdown inevitably result. Once
more the old saying, to the effect that prevention
is better than cure, applies. In the case of plants
so badly affected it is doubtful if a remedy can be
effectively applied. What has done good service
in the case of a form of eel worm that takes pos-
session of the stems near the surface of the soil
might well be tried, and this is phenyl, phenol, or
carbolic acid. I am using it by way of prevention,
and have great faith in the preparation. Those
who order several one-gallon drums of this can get

May 18, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

341

it from a chemist at the rate of 5s. per gallon, but
a single one-gallon drum would cost more, or from
6s. to 7s. (id. each. One pint of this preparation
I rind j-utticient for one hundred gallons of water,
and a thorough soaking of it is given before the
soil is dry or soon after water has been applied.
At this strength not a plant out of thousands has
been injured, but, on the contrary, the plant* are
benetited by its application, a certain amount of
nitrogen being present in the phenyl. It may be
that 'two or three applications of this manorial
disinfectant to the routs may restoie them to a
more healthy state and prevent a complete failure,
but I should not rely too exclusively upon it, pre-
ferring rather to raise a fresh lot ot plants with a
view to having heavy late crops. In all proba-
bility the soil now occupied by the plants was
similarly cropped last season, and trenching or
the addition of so much fresh soil and manure
would not have done anything towards getting
rid of any etl worms left in from a slight attack
last year. The tiny pest also seems to be most
often present when much decayed vegetable
matter, including rotten manure, is freely mixed
with the soil, and the first attack in such cases is
usually a very severe one. Drenching such soil with
the diluted phenyl is an excellent preventive,
but ought not to be wholly depended upon. II
the soil cannot be freshened up by trenching and
a free addition of fresh loam and fresh horse
droppings rather than stale manure, pot culture
should be resorted to for one or two seasons.
Wholly changing the soil in a large house or
several ranges of houses is a very expensive pro-
ceeding, but enough fresh soil can usually be
looked up for several thousand 10-inch or larger
pots, and under pot culture, accompanied by an
occasional application of phenyl, nematode worms
can be defied. The American remedy for the
complaint is a thorough exposure of the soil, in and
out of the houses, to the purifying influence of
severe frosts. In (Guernsey it is doubtful if
enough frost is registered to have much effect
upon insects or animals in the Boil, especially if
covered with glass. Last winter the soil in many
Tomato houses was haid frozen, and was thus all
the better for the exposure. — W. 1.

Early Cauliflowers. — At p. 284 "E. M." ad-
vises Early London for early summer use. The
Early London in a light soil I find is not of such
compact habit, the head or flower opening
quickly. It must not, however, be thought 1 do
not advise its culture, as very likely " E. M.'s"
soil ju.-t suits it. The Early London is closely
allied to two varieties now less grown than
formerly, the Stadtholder and the Walcheren.
but of the three I prefer the last on account of its
compact growth and the heads, being so much
better covered with foliage, are whiter and
closer. For first cutting in May to follow the
late Broccoli I prefer the Dwarf Erfurt Mam-
moth, which turns in ten days or a fortnight
earlier than the Early London, and is in my
opinion of superior quality. The Eifurt is quite
as hardy as the Early London, so is very suitable
for autumn sowing. — S. H.

Wintering Lettuces.— At p. 272 Mr. Tallack
gives us sound advice as to wintering Lettuce. It
is strange how different localities have fared with
regard t o the past severe weather. All my plants
perished, no matter whether sheltered by glass
or in the open I must admit this is the first
season I have lost the entire crop, and many large
growers who had splendid beds of Hardy Hammer-
smith— one of the very best winter Lettuces grown
— are similarly situated. By sowing Veitch's
Golden Queen indoors in February I am now
cutting nice heads, small certainly, but valuable.
This is one of the earliest varieties to heart in 1
have grown, being fit for use in eight weeks from
time of sowing. — G. Wythes.

Notes on Spinach. — In most gardens Spinach
will have come in useful. Though cut up by the
severe frost early in the year, it quickly recovered
with the advent of warmer weather, and has
supplied very acceptable dishes daily for weeks.

In addition to the well-known Prickly or Winter
Spinach, the Perpetual or Spinach Btet has done
extremely well, and no doubt as the latter becomes
better known it will be extensively sown for
standing the winter, as it produces immense
quantities of large leaves that cook remarkably
well and are of very good Savour. When liis 1
grew the Spinach Beet I was unfavourably im-
pressed with it, as the foliage came white or nearly
so.and a moderately sharp frost killtd it. Several
gardening friends had a similar experience.
Fortunately, I got the true variety, and now I
should be sorry not to have a good quaiter in the
garden. A new variety of Spinach sent out by
Messrs, Carter, High Holborn, named The Carter,
promises to be an acquisition for spring and
summer work. Sown on a warm border imme-
diately the ground would work freely after the
frost, it came up quickly, and is now (May 7)
supplying large thick leaves of fine quality, while
the ordinary round or Summer Spinach will not be
fit to pick for another foitnight, though Bown under
exactly the same conditions. Few crops pay so
well fur thinning and liberal manuring as Spinach.
Many rows are over much sooner than they would
be and produce a much .-mailer crop of leaves
than would be the case if the plants were thinned
out to about U inches apart in the rows, to Bay
nothing of the favour the large leaves find in the
kitchen compared with a multitude of small ones
- \V. G. C.

Mushrooms in fields. — In face of the de-
pression in the value of most crops and tho great
difficulty cultivators of the land find in making
ends meet, it may perhaps be useful to draw at-
tention to the easy manner in which Mushrooms
can be grown on pasture land that ie naturally
adapted to produce this edible fungus. There are
thousands of acres that would grow Mushrooms
admirably, and prove a source of profit to the
occupier without any loss or detriment to the
Grass crop; in fact, if conducted as hereafter de-
scribed, the Grass will be considerably improved,
and yield more per acre than if not so treated.
The first step is to procure good spawn that will
run freely when placed in a suitable medium.
The present is an excellent time to insert the
spawn in pastures, breaking it into lumps about
the size of a hen's egg ; then raise the turf with a
spade and place a lump underneath, about 3 inches
or 4 inches from the surface. It, is important
that the soil and turf be made thoroughly firm
again by well treading or beating down with the
back of a spade, otherwise the spawn will not run
well into the surrounding soil, and is liable to fail
entirely. The distance between the lumps of
spawn may vary from 2 to li yards apart each
way; if the field is specially adapted for Mash-
room growing the latter distance will answer very
well. When the spawn has once got established
the field may be expected to yield Mushrooms for
years afterwards if given a dressing of 3 cwt. of
agricultural salt at the end of March or early in
April. As to prices, they will vary from Is. to
2s. per lb. according to the earlines* of the crop,
and the returns per acre will also be ruled to a
great extent by seasons, as very dry or very wet,
cold seasons may cause the profits to be practic-
ally nil. However, as the first cost in spawn is
very small, comparatively speaking, it is worth
while risking the outlay, as the returns might be
of the most gratifying description. Personally I
have had both good and bad results, but, on the
whole, the investment has proved a very paving
one.— W. G. C.

Early Peas. — These will be none too early
this season. The early Peas are often planted on
sloping, warm borders, and as we have had little
lain to assist growth, it, will be well to give mois-
ture to plants that were raised under glass, as
these soon suffer from drying winds and little
moisture. I find the dwarf growers are much
benefited by a light watering early in the day
when the weather is warm. The plants should
also get supplies of food at the roots in the way
of liquid manure, or a good fertiliser used in a
liquid state. Those who grow some of the second
early varieties would do well to top them when

the haulm is from 2 feet to 3 feet high. I gro i
some of the 5-feet Peas and t< p at 2£ feet, with
excellent results. The haulm branches out freely
and there is a much heavier ciop, and the ugh the
plants occu| y about tie same space as fhe dwarf
kinds, theie aie much finer crops, which are
ii' in lv a- early as in the ca=e of the small growers.
— S. H. B.

Too iu! ny varieties cf Potatoes. — I was
recently talking to a young gardener who told
me that this season he had no less than forty va-
rieties of Potatoes, and only six last year. I ven-
tured to advise him to keep to the smaller number
if they suited the suil and cropped well. A small
selection grown in quantity is far better than a
few of each, with no knowledge of their eating or
keeping qualities. As soils vary so much and
affect ihe quality, it is well to grow kinds which
give the btst results. — G.

Variegated Kales. — The collection of Kales
in many colours impossible to describe sent by
Messrs. Sutton to the meeting of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society on April 23 was most instructive.
These Kales are highly ornamental and if so many
varieties can be staged after so severe a winter, it
shows they must be very hardy. They belong to
the Scotch section, the hardiest kind of Kale
grown, and they answer two purposes, being good
for decoration and for cooking, as when cooked
they lose their colour and are eepjal to the green
varieties. These Kales were highly commended
by the society for their beautiful appearance and
good keeping cjualities. Early in May is a good
time to get a stock for next winter ; it is well to
sow thinly and plant on open borders. The varie-
gated varieties are not so strong-growing as the
tine curled green varieties. — G. W.

Senk-le not forced. — This is so often forced
that a late or May supply is at times overlooked.
Few vegetables are so easily grown as Seakale
when the roots are only required for late cutting
in the open ground. The chief difficulty is the
blanching, as if not well covered, the tops soon
force their way above the soil and become green.
I get a valuable supply from the late roots covered
with fine ashes to keep slugs away, and then
banked up with soil. To do this it is necessary to
have plenty of space between the rows. I usually
cover with from 15 inches to 18 inches of leaves,
which did duty the previous year in forcing As-
paragus. The Seakale is grown close to the pits
and is covered in December. Two-year-old roots
arc best, being stronger. The Kale produced in
this way is delicious. — G.

Coarse Saisafy and Scorzonera.— Many fail
with these crops through too early sowing. From
the end of April to May 10 is a suitable time to
sow, anel if room cannot be afforded for both these
vegetv les, I would advise the Saisafy, sowing the
improved variety, the Sandwich Island Mammoth.
This is far superior to the older kind, producing
clean straight roots much larger in size. The best
Scorzonera is the new Large Russian, a very fine
root of excellent flavour. These two vegetables
are most valuable at the present date, when there
is but a limited list to select from, and keeping so
well into the spring makes them more valuable.
They grow so quickly in warm soils, that if
sown too early I have seen the whole crop lost by
running to seed, and the roots fork so badly that
they are not worth storage. This is readily pre-
vented by late sowing on land which has borne a
crop. If given manure when sown the roots are
nearly useless, forked roots not keeping well. —
\V. Si M.

Borecoles and their value. — The great value
of Borecoles in such a winter as we have recently
experienced should make them greater favourites
than ever, as in many gardens the Scotch and
hardy varieties are the only vegetables left to give
the supply for some weeks. The Borecoles have
passed through the winter with less injury than
any other green vegetable with the exception of
Spinach, thus proving their hardiness. It may be
suggested that those who have not lost their
crops have been favoured in the way of less frost,
but I do not think such is the case, much depend-

342

THE GARDEN.

IMay 18, 1895.

ing upon the state of the plants when put out,
and, of course, to a certain extent upon variety
and position of plants. I had 30° of frost, quite
enough, one would think, to test the hardiness of
any vegetable crop and most of the Scotch Kales,
and such kinds as Buda or Asparagus, with
Cottager's and the newer Arctic varieties, were
uninjured. Sow very thinly on good land at any
time from the end of April till well into May, as
when raised too early the plants, when crowded,
havo not that dwarf hard growth which resists
extremes of weather. For early supplies it is
much better to transplant and thus promote a
dwarf growth. Those with plenty of land at their
disposal may with advantage sow seed very thinly
at any time in May in drills 2 feet apart, thinning
the plants to 18 inches in the row and planting
out the thinnings thickly for the earliest cutting
in the shape of dwarf greens. The Dwarf Green
and Late Curled, with the varieties named above,
are the best. — G.

Fish, manure for Asparagus in spring.—
Now is an excellent time to dress old beds with
the above manure. I do not think any time of the
year so good as May, and if weget dripping weather
the fertiliser is washed down and acts at once. It
may be thought that salt is equally efficacious, but
it is not. I admit salt answers well on light soils,
but with heavy rains or little sun the beds are kept
so cold that it does not feed in the way fish manure
does. On heavy soils salt may be given two
months hence much better than at the present
time ; indeed, in my opinion, it is best applied then
in anj' kind of soil. — W. S.

Potato Sandringham. — A gardener who
annually aims at producing frame Potatoes at an
extra early date recently informed me that the
earliest variety for this purpose he had ever tried
was Sandringham. Not only, added he, is it early,
but it is a fine cropper, far superior in the latter
respect to Sharpe's Victor, which only produces
from four to six tubers at a root. I shall give
Sandringham a trial next season, and it might be
well for others needing early supplies to do the
same, as my informant has had great experience
in early Potato forcing. — J. C.

Mushrooms. — Those who have a house in an
extra cool position will do well to use special care
to prevent the young Mushrooms from turning
black and becoming useless. Of course, no fire-
heat must be used, but coolness must be further
encouraged by throwing open all the ventilators
at night, closing them again at daybreak. Apply
tepid water to the beds as required and damp
floors and walls daily. The Mushrooms should not
be left on the beds a moment longer after they are
fit for use, as they will keep much better if placed
in a cool cellar or store house.

OPEN-AIR TOMATOES.

Many err in sowing the seeds of plants intended
for planting against outside walls toe soon ; conse-
quently the plants become pot-bound and the
wood hard long before the weather is fit for trans-
planting them. Where fear of this evil exists, it
will be well to pot the plants on, as they will soon
root round the balls, and may then safely be kept
in frames or a cool house for another fortnight if
need be. I have a small batch of plants brought
on in advance of the main lot, and finally potted
into, say, 10-inch pots with a view to sinking them
into the border of a south wall. This in warm
districts may be done at the end of this month,
and if after the cavity has been taken out a good
thickness of rotten manure is placed in the bottom
and the hole in the pots made much larger, the
roots will soon push through the bottom, and,
taking advantage of the rich food provided, will
grow away freely and fruit well. The pots should
be sunk just below the ground level, so that a
liberal mulch of short manure can be given in
order to conserve the moisture and also to en-
courage surface roots. Bearing in mind the root-
restriction this batch is subject to, water must
always be supplied with a liberal hand, and when
sufficient fruit is set, the leading growths must be

pinched, all side laterals being likewise kept off.
Of course some method of protection must be de-
vised, or cutting winds and even late frosts may
cripple the plants. A very good plan is to put
wide boards on either side of them and to place
some Yew or Laurel boughs in front. These admit
sufficient sun-heat and light, and yet screen the
growth from harm. Those plants which are to
form the principal batch for outdoor work, and
which will not be planted out until the beginning
of June, must be gradually hardened off in frames,
being fully exposed on fine sunny days, as in the
case of the above named lot. If any signs of ex-
haustion show themselves, a good surface dressing
of loam and artificial manure must be given. It
is well to prepare the stations under walls for
Tomatoes some time before actual planting, so as
to give them an opportunity of settling. There
is then less fear of excessive evaporation, and the
plants generally go away better than when put
into newly-disturbed soil. When preparing, add
a little good loamy soil and rotten manure, mixing
it thoroughly and making it firm. I should here
add that on the plants that are to be plunged a
few fruits may set while in the frames. These
should not be removed, as they will swell off in
spite of the removal to an outdoor temperature,
and, ripening extra early, prove most useful, es-
pecially where no indoor Tomatoes are grown.

J. C.

Outdoor Mushroom beds. — Some weeks ago
I recommended those who need a constant supply
to make up a bed in the open air to yield during
the latter part of May and June. Where plenty
of good horse manure is at command, now is a
good time to commence, saving the material for a
second open-air bed to afford Mushrooms during
July, August, and September. As I stated before,
where there is a difficulty in securing sufficient
manure for a full-sized bed, a percentage of good
Oak or Beech leaves and a few barrowloads of
rough fibrous loamy soil maybe added. In pre-
paring it, care should be taken not to expose it to
the action of the sun and wind, as these agents
not only dry out the goodness, but necessitate the
use of water at making-up time. — C.

Summer Radishes. — A north shady border or
one partially sheltered by trees will grow the sum-
mer crop, but much may be done by selection of
varieties, and by this means provide a long supply.
For summer the Red and White Turnip varieties
are good, also several of the olive-shaped kinds.
For later sowing the China Rose is a very tine
August and September variety, and for the months
named may be sown on a border facing east. For
later use the Black Spanish or Winter Radish is the
best.— G. Wythes.

Potato Sharpe's Victor. — I am not so sure
that " J. C." (p. 284) is quite right in his estimate
of Victor, as he says he thinks it requires a
somewhat strong soil. This makes me think
he cannot have the true variety. I have had
two varieties, one much rounder and greatly
inferior to the other, yielding about two large or
medium-sized tubers with a mass of small worth-
less ones ; whereas the true variety has a flattened
oval tuber, is a good cropper, and is specially good
for frame culture. I have been so successful with
this variety, that I look upon it with special favour,
its earliness combined with good flavour making it
most valuable as a first early. I have grown
Ringleader, but prefer Victor for forcing. I
cannot see why Victor should fail on light soils.
Our soil is on gravel, and the lightest I have ever
had anything to do with, and Victor does well.
Under field culture I saw this variety in splendid
condition in Scotland in 1891. — G.

Celery Man of Kent. — This variety will keep
sound well into May. The severe winter upset
all our calculations as to a regular supply, and
protecting large breadths was out of the question.
I did not expect to see any living roots after the
thaw, but the above variety and Standard-bearer
were the only two sound varieties left, the Man of
Kent being firm and very little decayed. It is not
coarse, the colour bright red, the flavour very

sweet and nutty. It does well in poor land. The
leaves are much cut. I did not sow till late, and
therefore did not get large plants, but perhaps
that was fortunate, smaller plants wintering best.
— W.

VEGETABLE MARROWS.
It is not in every garden that either room or
time can be spared for the culture of extra early
Marrows in frames on warm beds. There are few,
however, who do not grow for a supply say at
the end of July and through August and Sep-
tember. Where hand-lights are at command, also
a good supply of leaves and short stable litter, I
would advise taking out a trench, say 6 feet in
width and 2 feet deep, and after well mixing and
treading in the fermenting material, place the
thrown-out soil on the surface, so that when all
is finished the ridges will be a foot higher than
the surrounding ground. Then place the hand-
lights in position, allowing a distance of 6 feet
between each, place therein a little fine semi-dry
loam, and sow the seeds at once. As thinning can
be practised to any extent after the plants are up,
insert plenty of seed, and keep the tops on the
lights till growth is seen, after which arrange
them crossways on fine sunny days to admit air
and strengthen the plants. A sharp eye must be
kept for slugs and snails, as they very frequently
abound in numbers in the leaves forming the
bottom heat, and come forth at night to their
destructive work. Prevention being better than
cure, the surface soil amongst the seedlings should
be freely dusted over with wood ashes and soot in
equal parts once or twice a week until the plants
grow out of harm's way. Some growers prefer a
position partially shaded for Marrows, but, our
summers being uncertain, the best position is a
sunny one, mulching being resorted to just as the
plants are coming into bearing, should excep-
tional solar heat and absence of rain necessitate
it. Where Marrows are grown minus bottom
heat the seed should be sown in small pots, and
the plants receive one good shift before finally
transplanting them to the open beds. Bring
them on from the start in a cool atmosphere — a
greenhouse temperature is the best, and that of a
frame for a fortnight previous to planting. In
the meantime small mounds should be prepared
by placing good loamy soil on the top of a few
leaves. The addition of much manure is not ad-
visable, as it often induces a rank growth prone
to disease. The old plan of planting Marrows on
the summit of manure heaps is not a good one by
any means, as, independent of encouraging disease,
which it certainly does, the flavour of the Marrows
when cooked is often strong and objectionable.
In addition to the ordinary varieties, the Custard
Marrow may now be sown, this being preferred
in some places before all others for the dining
room. Ground vineries afford capital protection
for transplanting Marrows, and amateurs and
others who have no means of glass shelter must
provide screens from cold winds by day by sur-
rounding the plants with Spruce or Laurel boughs,
and placing inverted flower-pots, buckets or
baskets over them at night for the first fortnight.
The third week in May is a good time for planting
where only this partial shelter can be given.

J. Crawford.

Early Tomatoes. — These will now be fur-
nished with numerous clusters of fruit, the most
forward of which will already be on the point of
colouring. As, however, in most cases a good
length of trellis has yet to be traversed by the
leading shoot and a corresponding number of
flower trusses has to form, great care in regard
to watering, airing, training and fertilising will
be necessary for some time to come. During dull,
humid weather plants growing in heavy, old-
fashioned houses are at a disadvantage, the trusses
that form being weak, and in many cases the
flowers fail to set well. Under such circumstances
it is a great mistake to sprinkle floors and stages
at any time of the day ; rather let a gentle warmth
circulate round the hot-water pipes and keep the

MA> '-'

\

:LANT! 'LOR

Mat 18, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

343

ventilators both at the top and bottom of the
house open half an inch. All side laterals must
be removed as soon as formed, their retention
being a double evil, first by robbing the main
growth of sap, and secondly, by causing a check
by being suddenly removed when of large size.
Another cause of Tomatoes failing to set and, in-
deed, of becoming generally unhealthy is water-
ing with water fresh from a cold well. This
gives a check to the roots, and the whole plant
is correspondingly affected. Where new roots
show themselves on the surface of the balls,
1 inch of fresh compost should be given, but
manurial mulchings should not be applied at pre-
sent, or indeed until a full crop of fruit is set and
swelling. The use of the syringe in Tomato cul-
ture is productive of much mischief, yet how many
practise it daily. Some growers abandon the use
of fire-heat at a certain date, say the first week in
May, the result being that a low night tempera-
ture quickly induces mildew and all its attendant
evils. Ripe fruits should if possible be gathered
before they commence to crack, as if stored in any
place in the least damp, mould sets in in a short
time.

Ellam's Early Cabbage.— This has stood
the severe winter well and is now turning in
freely, not one plant in a hundred having run.
I do not know of a hardier variety. I have plants
in three sizes, and the same remarks apply to all.
At one time I feared I had lost the larger plants,
but though the large leaves were all destroyed, we
have had such genial weather and growth has
been so rapid, that the plants have made wonder-
ful progress and well repaid for any extra atten-
tion given them in the way of liquid manure or
guano. This is not a good Cabbage for spring
sowing. — G. \V.

Garden Flora,

PLATE 1014

ACIDANTHERAS.

(WITH A (.'OLOlKEIi PLATE OF A. BICOLOK.*)

There are in all about seventeen species of
Acidanthera known to botanists, but only one
besides the species here figured has been intro-
duced to cultivation. The genus is purely
African, and the species are represented most
abundantly in Cape Colony, although outlying
species occur as far apart as the mountains of
Abyssinia, Sierra Leone, Kilimanjaro Moun-
tain, &c. It is from these warmer, more
northerly regions that the two cultivated
species come, but in each case at several
thousand feet altitude. The Acidantheras be-
long to the Iris family, and form a connecting
link between Gladiolus and Ixia.

The species represented in the accompanying
plate is a native of Abyssinia, where it was
collected by Dr. Schimper, and described as
long ago as 1844. It is of similar habit to a
Gladiolus, and produces long arching leaves in
two opposite rows from a roundish flattened
corm, which is covered with matted fibre. The
flowers, somewhat loosely borne on a spike 2
feet to 3 feet high, are pendulous. The perianth
has a tube 4 inches to 5 inches long divided at
the top into six segments, which are about
li inches in length and overlap each other.
The flower is creamy white, with a broad,
somewhat triangular patch of purple at the
base of each segment, and is delightfully per-
fumed, more especially towards the latter part
of the day. This plant has flowered at Kew on
several occasions and is grown there in an
unheated frame, planted in loam and silver

sand. According to Garden and Fond, it is in
the neighbourhood of New York grown in tubs,
which are stood out-of-doors in summer, being
taken indoors for autumn flowering. The other
species in cultivation,

A. .equinoctialis, is one of more tropical
character. It is a native of the Sugar-loaf Moun-
tain, in Sierra Leone, where it was discovered
by Mr. Scott-Elliot. Conns collected by Cap-
tain Donovan reached Kew about two years
ago. It is described as growing " in the cre-
vices of bare gneiss rocks in open spaces in the
bush at 3000 feet altitude." It is nearly allied
to the species here figured, and may possibly be
a stronger-growing, more tropical form of that
plant; it is, indeed, the finest of all the known Aci-
dantheras both in its stature and in its flowers.
Although it was only brought to the notice of
the present generation of gardeners as lately as
1893, it appears to have been known forty or
fifty years ago to Dean Herbert either as a
cultivated plant or in a dried state, for there is
in the Lindley Library an unpublished drawing
of it made by him. It flowered at Kew to-
wards the end of 18'.*:;, and has recently been
figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 7393.
The stems are 4 feet in height, the sword-
shaped leaves being 18 inches, sometimes more,
in length. The flowers, as in A. bicolor, are
borne loosely, and about half-a-dozen occur on
the spike. The tube of the perianth is 0 inches
long and the expanded portion 3 inches in dia-
meter, with a crimson blotch at the base of each
segment. This species requires considerably
warmer treatment than A. bicolor, and has at
Kew been found to succeed best as an inter
mediate stove plant. W. J. B.

* Drawn for The Garden in tbe Royal Gardens,
Kew, by H. G. Moon, July 12, 1891. Lithographed
and printed by Guillauine Severeyns.

The Week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.
Sowing Runner Beans in the open. — For those
who require extra early pickings of Scarlet Run
nere I advised sowing some seed in boxes or pots
and placing in warmth till up, the same being
transplanted after due hardening. Now, how
ever, in all gardens and soils the seed may be put
into the open ground. It must be borne in mind
that this section is very prone to decay if deep
sowing is practised ; 3 inches is quite deep enough
for the drills, and on strong retentive soils a little
artificial compost should be placed in them pre
vious to sowing, and the drills finally filled up
with the same. Allow plenty of room between
the rows; where ground is plentiful from 9 feet to
10 feet is none loo much. To make the most of
the crop, tall, slender poles 12 feet high may be
used, as the higher the haulm ascends the better
the yield, and the crop can be gathered by the
aid of steps. Where ordinary Pea rods are em-
ployed tbe growth when healthy often outgrows
these supports, and, falling down, forms a com-
plete thicket, into which neither air nor sun can
penetrate ; consequently the gatherings are very
unsatisfactory. It is astonishing for what a
length of time Runner Beans can be kept in a
bearing state by allowing plenty of room in all
directions and by keeping the pods from becoming
old, and thus distressing the plants. Nothing
pays better for good mulchings of rich manure
followed by copious watering with farmyard
liquid. Especially is this needful when many
small pods and numerous bloom-trusses have
formed. When sowing, always provide for pos-
sible blanks in the rows by sowing small patches
of seed here and there at the ends of the quarters.
Beware of slugs and snails, as I knew of nothing
in the kitchen garden more cherished by these
pests than Scarlet Runners.

Jerusalem Artichokes. — If planted at the
time advised these will now be advancing rapidly,
and, as in the case of Potatoes, several growths

often issue from one tuber, due thinning of these
is necessary. Go over the bed and reduce them
to one for every 9 inches or a foot. If the Dutch
hoe is now put through the rows, weeds will be
destroyed in their infancy, and once the Arti-
chokes make a foot of growth, weeds will stand but
little chance of thriving amongst them. Arti-
chokes are often planted in out-of-the-way corners
where, being out of sight, they are out of mind,
and weeds are often allowed to smother the plants
in their infancy.

Spinach — From now onwards all sowings which
may well be made fortnightly will do best in a
cool border under an east or even a north wall.
Here Spinach not only does better, but lasts
much longer in usable condition than when ex-
posed to the sun. Use the large-leaved Victoria,
this being more robust for hot weather and more
juicy and highly flavoured. Spinach responds
quickly to an application of artificial manure, and
if this can be given in showery weather, so much
the better. It is a good plan to put it on the sur-
face just after the first general picking has been
made ; the secondary growth is thereby improved,
and running to seed hastily prevented. Allow
plenty of room between the rows, and thin out the
plants to 9 inches apart when the first pair of rough
leaves have been made. Earlier beds now ex-
hausted should be cleared off without delay, as,
besides impoverishing the soil, the rain is kept
from penetrating the surface.

Planting spring Onions. — Where seed of any
special variety for producing large exhibition
bulbs was sown early in February, and the plants
have been treated according to advice given from
time to time, planting out into the final rows may
now take place. Presuming the ground was
extra well manured and has lain for sjine time, all
that is necessary is a thorough treading and raking
of the surface. Water the young plants well the
day before planting and remove them carefully
with the point of a label, preserving all roots
intact. In planting do not use a dibble, but a
small hand-fork, making cavities sufficiently large
to admit all the roots, which should be spread out
like the extended ringers of a man's hand, a little
soil being placed over them to keep them in
position till planting is completed, when a little
more may be added and the surface made very firm.
If the soil is at all light and fully exposed to the
sun, as it ought to be, mulching will be necessary
when the Onions get into full growth, and fre-
quent broadcast sprinklings of soot should te
given to keep away the Onion maggot. Liquid
manure of good strength will also be necessary if
large heavy bulbs are expected.

Thinning spring Onions. — Where the seed of
Spanish and other early varieties was got in in
good time, thinning will now be necessary. I do
not, however, advise giving the final thinning
just yet, as sometimes after cold rains the seed-
lings die orl" in great numbers. On the other
hand, if thinning is deferred till the Onions are
4 inches or 5 inches high, the whole of the ground
is loosened to such an extent, that those left fall
about in all directions, and never do so well as
when erect and firm. Rather than snap them oft'
by pulling, use a pointed stick, with this giving
a gentle leverage. Partial thinning completed,
run the Dutch hoe through the rows and give a
dressing of soot, as advised for the planted-out
ones. The final thinning may take place in about
three weeks' time. Where the small silver-skinned
varieties are in request for pickling, the present
is a good time to sow them. When up, thin only
slightly, as they are sure to grow large enough by
September.

Parsnips. — The earliest rows now require thin-
ning, and with these also moderation at first is
advisable, as cold winds may bring fly, which soon
disfigures the rows if not detected at once.

Lettuce. — From now till earthing Celery com-
mences there is no better place for growing
Lettuce than the spaces between the trenches.
Draw out slight drills the day before and water
them well; the young tender rootlets then go into
moisture at once, and go away quicker and better
than when planted into dry soil and not watered

344

THE GARDEN

[May 18, 1895.

for some time after. For fortnightly sowings from
now until September the Alexandra Cos is unsur-
passed, and for those who require a good Cabbage
variety I cannot name a better than Daniels' Con-
tinuity. One advantage this Lettuce has over all
other Cabbage varieties is its non-liability to run
to seed. Its firmness and quality generally also
are very conspicuous.

Early Broad Beans. — Where these were
planted out of pots and boxes and are now from
1 foot to 18 inches high, they may in exposed
gardens fall victims to black fly. Immediately
this pest is detected the points of the shoots
should be dusted with tobacco powder and after-
wards syringed with clean water. If this pre-
caution is not taken, growth may be altogether
suspended and the crop lost. A little soil should
also be drawn up to the stems on either side of the
row, and in the case of single rows, a few branches
placed at intervals close up to the Beans and in a
slanting position will keep them from falling
about.

Seed Beetroot. — Roots planted in March are
now growing freely. If the centre growths are
intact, all side growths must be removed, but
where the crown growth died back in winter
three side growths only should be selected. As
soon as 1 foot high, stout stakes must be placed to
each root and the growths tied to them at inter-
vals. The same attention must be given to seed
Onions, or winds will be liable to snap off the
growths. J. Crawford.

HARDY FRUITS.
Apricots. — These will claim first attention, and I
regret to observe they have not passed through
the winter as well as one could wish. Many trees
show more decayed wood than usual, some of the
centre branches having failed to break freely.
These should now be removed. The shoots should
be regulated as much as possible to fill up these
gaps, and thinning of the fruit should be pro-
ceeded with. It is not wise to defer thinning, as
even at this early date it is soon seen which will
take the lead. Those who can lay in plenty of
wood of each season's growth will find the trees
are less troubled with disease, as young wood
induces the formation of roots, which if kept near
the surface by supplies of food in the way of
moisture and liquid manure will furnish good
crops and wood to replace that which decays. In
thinning the fruits it is well to pay attention to
useless growths, and by stopping throw the sap
in the direction requiied. The roots should be
examined, and if at all dry, water should be given.
I am aware it is rather too early to advise water-
ing, but much depends upon the state of the
soil and the position of the trees. I have in a
light soil found it necessary to water, and shall
shortly mulch with short manure, the trees being
much exposed and on a sloping bank with a
gravelly subsoil. Of course, trees in better soil
with ample depth will need less moisture, and
the mulching may be deferred for a time.

Peaches and Nectarines. — These, except in
very late districts, should now be freely exposed.
Disbudding will now need almost daily attention.
I find it best to go over a portion of the trees
daily. Disbudding is very soon understood after
a little practice, and may be done by anyone in-
terested in the work. So far the trees are re-
markably healthy, and in this district have set
very heavy crops. The weather having been
most favourable very little protection was needed.
In disbudding it is well to bear in mind the age
of the tree, the number of fruit it will be allowed
to mature, and other details. Do not crowd the
wood in any way, but concentrate the energies of
the tree to the growths required for extension
and to produce fruiting wood next season. It
often happens that some of the finest fruits set
close to the nails and are injured if these are not
removed. Shoots with fruit at the base should
not be e t'rsly removed, but pinched at the fourth
leaf from the base. In disbudding, sufficient
shoots should be left to furnish blanks on the wall.
Any branches that show signs of canker or decay

should be removed, as these will not thrive, and
it is an easy matter now to fill up any blank spaces
with new growths. It is well to remove the
superabundant fruits as early as possible. This
can be done when regulating the shoots. The
American varieties advance so rapidly up to the
stoning period, that if thinning is at all delayed
the trees soon suffer, the fruits drop, and what
are saved are not the best. Should green-Hy
attack the young growths.it is well to syringe
freely with weak tobacco water, or, what is
better, give daily syringings with clear water,
only using the tobacco for badly infested titcs,
and then a weak solution, as insecticides at these
early stages of growth are not advisable. Some
varieties mildew badly. As this pest spreads
rapidly, it is well to use flowers of sulphur freely
over the affected parts, keeping the foliage dry
for a short time afterwards.

Cherries have set splendidly. They require
much the same treatment as Apricots as regards
mulching and moisture. The roots being close to
the suriace and the fruits soon stoning require
much moisture at this stage, dryness at the roots
being the forerunner of black-By, a pest difficult
to dislodge. It is scarcely necessary to remark
that thinning is not required at this stage, as so
many fruits drop beftue they stone. Many trees
get crippled by crowded growth. All foreright
shoots should be lemoved as early as possible,
but should the cultivator require fiuit from spurs
on the main branches, it is best to select the side
growths. These, being closer to the wall, get
more protection, and at this date should be
stopped freely for the purpose named, rubbing
off any prominent forerights or shoots not re-
quired for the extension of the trees, as the more
these can be encouraged the better, if wall space
permits of extension. Cherries on light soils
well repay an early mulch. I find cow manure in
a light gravelly soil very good, and if at all
fresh it is mixed with spent Mushroom manure,
and thus keeps the roots from becoming dried up.
Such kinds as Early Rivers, Frogmore Bigarreau
and Governor Wood mature so quickly, that there
should be as little delay as possible in mulching,
syringing freely during the next few weeks to
prevent aphides and assist the swelling of the
fruits.

Blums on walls. — These trees in some soils
soon lose the bright, fresh appearance they have
at this date, and become a prey to aphides. In
such soils early mulching and frequent syringings
are necessary, and the stopping of useless growth
and the removal of foreright and crowded shoots
should claim attention. The Plum brought on
slowly under glass grows much like other fruits,
showing that where due attention is paid to the
wood there is a good return. Lay in plenty cf
fruiting wood for the next season, as much of the
bearing wood may be cut away after the fruit is
gathered. I have stated that the trees soon get
sadly disfigured by aphis, and as this occurs at a
busy season, it is well to be supplied with mate-
rials that will effect a speedy removal. I find
quassia extract one of the best and safest insecti-
cides. It does not injure the fruit, and is of
special value for Plums and Cherries, but should
not be used when the fruit is colouring.

Cordon Apples and Pears. — The lateral
growth of cordon trees should be stopped now
while it is tender. It is far better to use the
finger and thumb freely than the knife later on.
Many useless shoots may be rubbed clean off,
others pinched to form spurs, and the main or best
leading shoot should be selected to form the
leader. Young trees are this season showing
much bloom, and it may be necessary a little later
to thin severely. I am aware that Pears often
shed their fruits badly in their early stages, but it
often occurs owing to the trees being so heavily
ladpn that the roots cannot find food for the same.

Newly-planted fruit trees. — In some dis-
tricts trees were planted late owing to the severe
weather, and will thus need more than ordinary
care. An early mulch of short manure with occa-
sional supplies of water should be given to these.
It is also necessary to give the autumn-planted

trees the necessary moisture, as ow ing to the pro-
tracted frost the trees are unable to btar extremes
of any kind. From such it will be well toiemove
the bloom, as it tends to weaken the trees.
Against walls newly-planted trees such as Peaches
and Neetaiines were longer than usual in break-
ing, and on diy soils will be benefited if syiinged
over titquently. If the tiees bieak too freely in
one place reduce the shoots as soon as possible,
so as to get the foundation of the Iree laid and
fairly started. Remove useless shoots at the base
first and pull out foreright shoots at the earliest
moment to induce stronger side growths, which
are required for tiaining or nailing in. Trees of
the varieties named which are of fair size and in-
clined to make vigorous growth should be allowed
to carry a light crop of fruit in order to check
grossness.

Raspberries have suffered severely. The hot
summer of 1S93 was not a. favouiable one for these,
and the plants had only just got into condition,
having made a late sappy giowth, which was cut
down by the arctic weather in February. Much
may be done to help the canes by cutting down
to a live portion any that are badly crippled, only
allowing four to six growths from the buse. The
usual practice is to allow more and to thin to the
number named after the fruit is gathered. Rasp-
berries will now require to be mulched if the soil
is light, and good manure should be used for the
purpose. Newly planted canes that are breaking
badly or only at the top should be cut down to
within 6 inches of the soil and new growth from
the base encouraged.

Strawberries. — These started very feebly, and
are not nearly so well furnished with bloom-
trusses as usual. This need not cause any alarm
as to the crop, as a certain number of fruits well
developed are preferable to a mass of small ones.
Last season the early fruits got a severe check by
frost at the end of this month. Though Straw-
berries will be later this season, it is well to be
prepared for emergencies. Such a mateiial as
litter in a dry state is of great assistance to ward
off frost, and as only limited area" can be covered,
it is well to select the most promising or young
plants. The mulching of the pUntswill now re-
quire attention. A double use may be made of
the mulch. If the mulch is strawy manure, the
straw will be cleansed by heavy rains and ready
for the fruit. It may also be turned to good
account on frosty nights by lightly covering the
bloom if lifted lightly with a fork. Before apply-
ing any mulch, hoe lightly between the rows,
doing the work in bright weather. Apply food if
necessary in the way of liquid manure, soot, or
other fertilisers, but be careful to keep them clear
of the plants. Young plants wanted to produce
runners for forcing should have the flower-trusses
removed to induce the formation of runners.

G. Wy'thes.

Trees and Shrubs.

RHODODENDRONS AND THE FROST.

It often surprises me that the Pontic Rhododend ron
is so largely planted in gardens when many of the
choice named varieties, hybrids of the much
hardier and more vigorous catawbiense, are, to my
mind, incomparably more beautiful. Out of one
hundred and one different varieties in my garden
I have lost remarkably few during the severe
frost, although my po.-ition is rather low, and we
had the frost in the near neighbourhood down to
zero for several nights consecutively. Those that
show signs of the severest punishment are mostly
plants moved in the autumn, which possibly had
not got well hold of the soil before the frost came.
Baron Schroder, Odoratum, Sun of Austerlitz,
Broughtoni, and some choice unnamed seedlings
from Loqucndum, with long finger-like leaves,
have been the hardest hit, but, so far as I can
judge, more than ninety varieties out of the one
hundred and one are practically uninjured, whilst
the Laurel, the Privet, and some of the varieties of

May 18, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

345

Berberis are either killed outright or greatly
damaged, forming a terrible eyesore in their pre-
sent condition It is, therefore, clearly demon-
strated that the "queen of flowering shrubs,"
the Rhododendron, is far preferable as a hardy
evergreen for our English climate than the
unintere>t ing and a pparently inevitable Laurel and
Privet. As a tine foliaged plant the Rhododendron
presents as much beauty, if the right sorts be
selected with that object in view. Take the
foliage, for instance, of such varieties as Jo=eph
Whitwortb, Charles Dickens, Lord Palmerston,
Mrs. John Waterer, William Cowper. Sir Thomas
Sebright. .Times Mackintosh, and Everestianuin ;
it is beautiful all the year round, but add to this
the blaze of colour of the choicest varieties when
in bloom, it is amazing that the hardy Rhododen-
dron is not more extensively planted. To those
who may be interested in procuring a few of the
very grandest varieties of hardy Rhododendrons
--whether new or old — in cultivation, and who do
not care to wade through nurserymen's bewil-
dering catalogues. I would suggest a trial of the
following twenty kinds as almost certain to give
satisfaction in their respective colours if properly
planted and attended to. If the former is well
done, they do not require much of the latter,
beyond well watering and syringing just when
they are coming into bloom. Baroness L. dc
Rothschild, superb conical truss, brilliant scarlet,
with lighter throat ; Mrs. John Penn, salmon.
pink edges, with waxy cream centre; Helen
Waterer, white centre, with most brilliant
scailet edge; Kate Waterer, rose-crimson, with
yellow centre ; Lady Eleanor Catheait, salmon-
pink, finely-marked, verj' beautiful, but shy
bloomer ; Mrs. R. S. Holford, superb truss,
salmon-pink ; II. W. Sargent, d: rk velvety crim-
son ; James Mackintosh, rich velvety crimson, fine
truss, and splendid foliage; Michael Waterer, an
old favourite, bright scarlet, rather poor t
Marchioness of Lansdowne, light red, intense
maroon blotch, very fine flower; Marie Stuart,
lovely shade of rose-lilac, with intense purple
blotch, splendid truss and habit, flowers as beauti-
ful as an Orchid ; The Queen, one of the most
beautiful whites ; Lady Grey Egerton, pearly
white, magnificent truss ; Sir T. Sebright, metallic
bronzy purple, free and long bloomer ; Joseph
Whitworth, dark maroon, beautiful flower and
foliage; Martin Hope Sutton, brilliai t dark
scarlet — if perfectly hardy, one of the finest in
cultivation ; James Marshall Brooks, scarlet, with
a curious mossy bronze eye ; Broughton (or Lord
Palmerston), very similar, but not synonymous,
grand trusses, bright pink, fine foliage ; Frederick
Waterer (or John Walter), different habit and
foliage, but very similar flowers, bright scarlet,
perfect trusses ; Sigismund Rucker, rich magenta-
crimson, wilh a black intense blotch. It would
be easy to arid twenty more almost as good as the
foregoing, but it would be hard to name twenty
better. When varieties such as those enumerated
cost very little more than the ordinary ponticum,
it is strange that they are not more extensively
planted.— George Bennington, Bush hill Park,
Evfield, in t'i-ld.

Spring flowering scrubs at Scilly.- Al-
though spring is certainly not the period of the
year when the gardens of Tresco Abbey, in the
Isles of Scilly, show their greatest beauty, the evi-
dence? <f the equable climate are, perhaps, more
apparent at that, time, especially after the bitter
winter experienced on the mainland, than later
in the season. On April 15 Edwardsia macro-
phylla, grown almost to tree size, was covered
with its pendulous yellow flowers. Cordyline
indivisa, not the Cordyline indivisa geneially held
to be identical with Dracaena indivisa, but a species
having sword-shaped leaves 4 inches broad, was
flowering for the first time, the cluster hanging
by the side of the stem after the manner of the
bunch of a fruiting Banana, the individual flower-
spikes, which are numerous and finger-shaped,
being of a yellow and bluish-black colour. Seuecio
Fostcri, in large bushes 12 feet high, in profuse
flower was a striking sight, while the fol-

lowing shrubs were also in bloom : Boronia
tetrandra, B. heterophylla, Pimelea decussata,
and several Correas, of which C. cardinalis
had been blooming throughout the winter,
Banksia serratifolia, Eriostemum buxifolium,
Anopteris glandulosa and the Tasmania!) Pepper-
bush, the scarlet Thistle (Erythrok'ena conspicua)
also showing many heads of brilliant flowers.
Berberis Darwini, the white Broom and Polygala,
as well as various Rhododendrons and Australian
Wattles al*o brightened the gardens. Fourcroya
longreva, of which there are a large number at
Tresco, had started throwing up its gigantic
tlower-spike, one of the latter having in former
years reached the height of 25 feet. On garden
flowers in bloom I will not touch, except, to say
that a very beautiful effect was afforded by masses
of Lithospermum prostratum, which, covered with
their Gentian-blue flowers, informally outlined
the verge of a border. Muhlenbeckia complexa
flourishes like a weed in the gardens, garlanding
trees with its graceful festoons and covering a
hedge 10 feet high with its wiry stems and minute
foliage. The Abbey gardens have suffered but
little from the effects of the past winter (the
greatest amount of frost registered being 5°),
which has left a very different legacy to that of
the disastrous winter of 1893 94, when several of
the giant Tree Ferns were lost, as well as a
splendid specimen of Seaforthiaelegans. — S. W. F.

Rhododendron (Az<lea) rhombicum. —

This is the earliest of all the hardy deciduous
Azaleas to come into flower, and is, moreover, one
of the most distinct of that beautiful family.
Although it is perfectly hardy and h:is come
through the past winter quite unscathed, it is
tender when young, a fact which probably ex-
plains its rarity in this country. The flowers are
produced most abundantly over the bush before
any of the leaves appear, the corolla being of a
bright rosy-purple shade which is quite different
from that of any other hardy Azalea. An example
about 4 feet high in the Azalea ground at Kew
is now very prettily in flower. The leaves, some-
what diamond - shaped and pointed at both
ends, are covered with sil«y hairs when young.
This species is a native of Japan, where, on the
island of Niphon, it is said to inhabit the moun-
tain forests. To those who are interested in early
spring flowering shrubs it is well worthy of atten-
tion.— B.

The Box as a specimen shrub. — The asser-
tion in a recent issue that the common Box is a much
abused mbjeet is, I think, quite justifiable. Bow
seldom do we see it planted by itself where it can
spread and develop to the fullest. Few, I think,
have any idea to what proportions this shrub in
good ground will attain. Some of the finest
specimens I have ever seen are at Gunton, grow-
ing in the pleasure grounds. They stand epiite
clear of the neighbouring shrubs, and have plenty
of air and light, and are most useful and hand-
some. The variegated forms appear to be more
stiff and erect in growth, and not nearly so grace
ful as the common variety. Were I planting new
pleasure grounds I would certainly accord the
Box a prominent place amongst shrubs and give
it plenty of room. — J. Crawfokd.

Protection of tender trees. — Exposure to
cold winds and draughts — in other words, want of
consideration in planting — has more to answer for
in the destruction of plant-life than even an ex-
ceptional amount of cold such as we have had
during this last winter. In a garden in this
village there is a specimen of Eriobotrya japonica
now (April 3ft) looking the picture of health. It
is 18 feet high, and the leaves are Hi to 17 inches
long by 5 to 6 inches broad. It is in a thicket of
shrubs, deciduous and evergreen, most of which
are considerably taller, and is thus well protected.
In the same garden is a plant of Embothrium
coccineum, growing close to a small pond (in which
Aponogeton is blooming freely) ; it is 8 feet high,
and has a truss of flower buds on every branch.
The open space in which it grows is nearly
surrounded by trees and shrubs somewhat taller,
and this amount of protection has enabled it to

bear at least 13° of frost with impunity. — W. T.,
Bishopsteiyiiton, South Devon.

Andromeda formosa. — In common with
many others, I could not find the specimen of
Andromeda formosa to which an award of merit
was given at the meeting of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society on April 23, but at all events there
seems to be a mistake made in thus recognising
this decidedly ornamental shrub, for the genus
Andromeda is closely allied to Pieris (indeed the
names are often used indiscriminate'y), and last
year at the meeting held on May 8 specimens
of Pieris formosa were sent from tilasnevin,
and an award of merit was then given. Surely
this must have been overlooked, for merely a
change in the generic name should not entitle a
plant to be again recognised. This Pieris (for
according to the "Dictionary of Girdening" Pieris
is the correct generic name) is a native ot Nepaul
and was introduced in 1881. — T.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

THE FRUIT CROP.
It seems to be universally admitted that a
grand crop of hardy fruit is this year inevitable,
as never had we brighter prospects, a finer bloom,
or more perfect weather to bring about its fer-
tilisation. In but a week or two all will be
over, as it is already with Plums and Cherries
and many Pears, and on these, in spite of pre-
valent east winds, there is a fine set. A grand
fruit crop may not prove to be to all an un-
mitigated blessing. That it will help to make
the nation several millions of pounds richer
there can be no doubt, but the distribution of
that huge sum is not always properly arranged,
for whilst some growers get a good share others
get little or none — not because their products
do not merit reward perhaps, but be ause local
or other circumstances too often interpose to
check profitable sales. Whilst between now
and the autumn, when the bulk of the huge
fruit crop will be gathered in, there may be
some cause for battling with ordinary troubles,
yet the ultimate outcome seems so far assured,
that it is well even thus early to put the ques-
tion, " How shall we most profitably utilise
it V It is very certain that should all go as
anticipated, we must look for some two or three
rather lean fruit years to follow, because that
seems to be all in the course of Nature. That
fact furnishes an additional reason, if one be
needed, why we should thus early consider the
best means of utilising this great fruit crop.
A few who know how to market will do so
satisfactorily. The many who do not know will
find their fruit a drug and the market glutted.
When such is the case, the moral deiivable
from a grand fruit crop is entirely discounted,
because so much is heard of unprofitable sales,
of gieat waste, and of consequent disappoint-
ment.

At the present time there is no question
associated with home fruit culture so important
as is the one, " How most profitably to market
our produce." We must, of course, entirely
change our existing methods of getting fruit to
market or into shops. Thus when the fruit
harvesting comes we shall see the old rough,
crude methods, the same crowding of certain
markets, to the exclusion of others, the same
imperfect packing and la k of sorting, the
same evils repeated again and again, with
the inevitable result that gluts are produced.
We may expect the jam manufacturer to be
strongly in evidence, and he will take for his
purposes enormous quantities of frui', but as he
purchases at who esale rates, his prices do not
admit of much profit. It is not in the direction

346

THE GAEDEN.

[May 18, 1835.

of jam manufacture by a long way that we must
look for the highest uses to which good fruit can
be put. It is in the home circle, used either as
dessert food or as elements for sweets and
sauces or as stewed dishes, that we must seek
for that greater development of consumption
which is so much needed. Why not gather
the fruit with more care, assort it according
to quality, pack into neat cheap non-return-
able boxes, in quantities of 8 lbs., 10 lbs.,
12 lbs., 15 lbs., or 20 lbs., to meet all require-
ments, the lids being easily secured and
removed, whilst smartness and taste are pre-
sented in the packing, and thus open a wide
connection with the grocers' shops and stores
for several miles round ? The assumption that
only through certain markets and eventually
greengrocers is it that legitimate fruit-trading
can be done is a tradition that cannot be too
soon destroyed. In many rural districts where
small areas of fruit are numerous some collecting
and distributing agencies could render most
efficient service. No doubt we are, and in
spite of all that has been written and said dur-
ing the past twenty years, still growing far too
much of inferior fruit, or our cultural methods
are still such that only inferior samples result.
It is too often the case that growers of market
fruit depute the gathering of it to careless or
untrained persons. In a private garden there
is no work which commands the head gardener's
personal attention more keenly than does fruit
gathering. The untrained hand has no faculty
for selecting the fittest, and in the process of
gathering rarely does so with ordinary care.
The subject here referred to is a moat important
one, meriting the fullest discussion, and such at-
tention bestowed thus early in the year should
have far more practical results than if deferre<'
until the fruit harvest is here. A. D.

another of Laxton's seedlings, will not, I fear, j feet drainage, and very often the borders were
become popular as a forcing variety, as it does not | entirely outside, the Vines being brought
set well in heat, but it will probably make its , through the wall into the vinery. Afterwards

mark in the open and may succeed as a late crop
in pots. It is of a distinct, sturdy habit of
growth, the fruit large, handsome, and deliciously
flavoured. Seeing that Latest of All is one of its
parents, lateness may reasonably be anticipated.
Laxton's Leader, however, can be forced, and this
very fine Strawberry must eventually become
popular. I saw it in Laxton's Bedford trial
grounds last summer and was much impressed by
its appearance and the rich, pleasing flavour of its
fruit. Ripened under glass this excellence of
flavour i9 even more evident, and very superior to
what is often attained in the case of other va-
rieties under pot culture. — W. Iggulden.

BLACK HAMBURGH GRAPE.
Though this is beyond question the most popu-
lar black Grape, it will be admitted by veteran
growers that it is not so well grown now as it was

Wasps. — Judging by the immense quantities of
queen wasps daily flying about, there will be no
dearth of these enemies to fruit during the coming
summer ; and although we may kill all that we
possibly can, more tnan enough will be left to
work destruction. At the same time the deeds of
the wasp are not altogether evil, as the queen
wasps can be seen searching fruit and other trees
in search of aphis, which they devour eagerly.
Psylla mali also finds favour, as I watched them
eating the newly-hatched psylla- on several occa-
sions recently ; but the good deeds do not com-
pensate for the havoc they work, and I destroy
every wasp that I can, as aphides, psylla; and other
insects of that description can be easily got rid of
by the aid of the reliable insecticides in the market,
without depending upon such doubtful friends as
wasps. — W. G. C.

New Strawberries. — I have recently had good
opportunities of testing the quality of three new
Strawberries ripened under glass. One of them
(Royal Sovereign) is now very generally dis-
tributed, and many gardeners will have tried it this
season in pots either for the first or second time.
According to my experience this variety is a de-
cided acquisition to the somewhat meagre list of
forcing Strawberries. The plants under ordinary
cultivation attain a great size, forming exception-
ally fine crowns, and are just what a grower feels
proud of. Very hard forcing is not advisable, but
if included in the third or fourth batch of plants
introduced into heat no mistake will have been
made. In some gardens that I have visited highly
creditable crops were ripe and ripening about
the middle of April, the fruit I tasted being of ex-
cellent quality. Some that were sent me by post
from a considerable distance travelled well, and
such fine, bright-coloured fruit would early in May
have fetched from 5s. to 6s. per pound in the best
markets. Very large fruits are apt to become
slightly hollow, but the handsomer, moderately large
fruit do not show this failing, while the flesh in
every case is firm and richly flavoured. Monarch,

Grape Black Hamburgh.

formerly. Many will remember the grand ex-
amples that were exhibited at some of the lead-
ing shows about twenty years ago, but which are
seldom, if ever, equalled now. It is not an
easy matter to state why Black Hamburgh is
less skilfully grown, as there is no doubt more
than one cause for the degeneration. As men-
tioned in The Garden a few weeks ago, I think
the present system of feeding is unsuitable for
the variety, as it cannot take up the copious
supplies of food supplied to the roots ; this is
followed by a surfeit, and instead of doing
service to the Vines, injury is inflicted, followed
by small and frequently badly coloured berries,
also smaller bunches than we used to see. On
the old system of growing Black Hamburgh
the border was well made with sound fibrous
loam, with abundance of lime rubble and p<r-

very little manuring was done beyond a
mulch of the best farmyard manure procur-
able every spring, and an occasional applica-
tion of fresh lime lightly forked into the
border. Considering how largely lime enters
into the composition of the berries and the
stones therein, it may be that some of the
chemical manures now employed as a substitute
for this do not answer so well as expected, more
particularly on soils naturally deficient in lime.
A manure that most Grapo Vines enjoy is fresh
guano. As a change from other stimulants it
acts splendidly, and if anything is required to
assist healthy Vines of Black Hamburgh, I can
recommend the manure mentioned. For supply-
ing a gentleman's table no black variety is more
generally appreciated, as it possesses excellent
quality, good appearance when well grown, and
can be had in good condition from May to
December. With a little extra
trouble good bunches may be kept
until Christmas, but to obtain these,
the Vines should be allowed to
start naturally, and not be hurried
too much by early closing during
the summer months, and giving
ample room for the development,
of the berries. Any jamming of
the berries will be fatal to the
bunches keeping, as decay would
set in and the whole become tainted
in a very short time. There is a
host of so-called varieties of Ham-
burgh, including Frankenthal, but
my experience is that there are only
two really distinct varieties, and
these are only distinct in the size
and shape of the bunch. The better
variety has fine broad shoulders,
forming a bunch as wide as it is
long, but still of good shape ; the
other has a more tapering bunch,
with somewhat narrow shoulders,
and under the best cultivation will
never produce such a large and
heavy bunch as the former.

W. G. C.

RUST ON GRAPES.

Most gardeners look upon rust on
their Grapes as something to their
discredit, and are always anxious
to avoid this disfigurement if pos-
sible. There are many causes of
rust on Grapes, but one of the most
general, I believe, is injudicious
ventilation, more especially up to
the end of May. During this month
we have hot days, but often a cold
wind blowing that is felt by the
tender foliage and berries of Vines, as proved
by rust appearing on the latter, and frequently
mildew on the former. So injurious is front
ventilation to Vines in May, in my opinion, that
I never have the front lights opened until the
month is out, and experience has proved that
the plan is sound. It may be asked, " How do
you prevent the temperature becoming ' too
high ? " The answer is, by early top-ventilation.
Immediately the thermometer rises to 70J a
chink of air is admitted at the top, and gradu-
ally increased as the temperature rises, with an
occasional damping down of the floors, walls,
&c. By this means the thermometer never
rises beyond a safe height. Where a mistake
is made is in not commencing to ventilate early
enough, then the air in the house becomes very
heated early in the day, and if the sun continues

Mat 18, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

347

powerful all day it is very difficult to keep the
heat within bounds without the aid of front
ventilation and its evils.

Another cause of rust is the heavy removal of
sub-laterals. Mr. Douglas mentioned this
matter in a recent issue, and I agree with all he
then stated on the bad effects of this severe
mode of stopping Vines. In addition to the
check given to healthy growth a sudden access
of lig-lit is usually thrown upon the bunches,
and the berries being accustomed to more shade
are injured by the sun's rays, and rust or scald-
ing follows, particularly with the tender-skinned
varieties. Hundreds of bunches of Muscat of
Alexandria are more or less rusted every year
through a sudden or partial exposure to the
light after being shaded by foliage. I think it
an error on the grower's part to tie back or re-
move leaves at any time to admit direct light to
bunches of Muscats, as some of the tiiiest and
most highly-finished examples that 1 ever saw
had been shaded by a moderately thick canopy
of foliage from the time the bunches were set
until cut for exhibition.

Where red spider has been troublesome in the
past, no doubt the pipes were sulphured with a
view to ward off the enemy. It sometimes
occurs that a portion of the sulphur remains on
the pipes, particularly about the joints. 1
should not like to assert how long sulphur in
such instances would throw off fumes, but there
can be no question that it does not lose its
power for a year or so, as it can be detected
after that period when 'he pipes are hot, and
probably many berries thus become rusted, as
it is well known that the fumes of sulphur in-
jure the tender skin of the berries while they
are small. W. G. C.

Grape Bowood Muscat. — I am quite sure
Mr. Temple will pardon me for correcting him in
his error in attributing the notes on Bowood
Muscat some time ago to the pen of Mr. Douglas.
It was I who maintained that there was a dis-
tinction between the Bowoud and Muscat of
Alexandria, and I still do so. Its distinctive
marks are shortness of bunch, rounder berries,
and more freedom in setting. I do not mean to
assert that it would be wise to provide for it at
exhibitions now-a-days, as unscrupulous exhibitors
might be induced to pass Muscat of Alexandria
off as the true Bowood. This, however, has
nothing to do with the actual distinction between
the two Grapes. I am of opinion that if some
of those who believe the difference to be more
imaginary than real could see some of the old
Vines that were planted when Bowood was first
sent out, their opinion would soon be changed.
— J. Crawford.

Orchids.

SOBRALIAS.

This genus contains many beautiful and dis-
tinct species, and appears to be becoming more
popular every year. Sobralias succeed well in
the temperature of the Mexican house, where I
recently noticed some fine specimens in a small
collection at Beckenham. Ihese plants, especi-
ally S. macrantha, are in most excellent con-
dition, and in some cases have a dozen and
more tine flowering stems. One great disad-
vantage with this family of Orchids is the short
time that the individual flowers last, but this is
amply compensated for by the quick succession
in which they appear, for no sooner does oue
flower fade than another opens, and the succes-
sion continues until the stem is quite exhausted.
Sobralias are mostly all tall, free-growing plants
with slender, reed-like stems, which are well fur-

nished with strongly- plaited deep green foliage,
and make handsome specimens eveu when not
in flower. They should be grown iu pots of
rather large size, as they produce roots freely,
and the compost should consist of rough fibrous
peat and turfy loam, mixed well together and
made sandy. The drainage for this family, as
is the case with all Orchids, must be well looked
after, and about 3 inches of broken crocks
should be given, for at no time in the year
must the plants be allowed to be dry. An
occ sional application of weak liquid manure is
also beneficial later in the season. Sobralias are
all natives of tropical America, and when well
flowered are unsurpassed in beauty by any
other kind in the Orchid world. There are
somewhere about thirty species, and the follow-
ing are the most desirable kinds : —

S. Cattleya, which is represented in only one
or two collections in the country, is indeed a
remarkable plant. It is an exceedingly tall-growing
plant, but 1 do not think it has ever been flowered
under cultivation.

S. macrantha is probably the most extensively
grown kind in cultivation. It is a native of
Mexico and Guatemala, and is an old inhabitant
of our gardens. It will grow from 4 feet to 6 feet
bigh, and even more, forming a fine specimen
plant in a short time. The flowers of this species
each measure about li inches across, with broad
sepals and petal?, the latter somewhat crisped.
The w hole flower is of a beautiful rich purplish
crimson, having a pale yellowish blotch in the
centre of the lip. Of this species there have
appeared several varieties, a very fine form being
known as

S. macrantha splendens, which, however, is
identical with the type, but has the flowers of
much larger size and very deep in colour. I have
S3en blooms of this kind nearly 8 inches across.
Another and a very distinct variety is

S MACRANTHA (Wooley's var ), which is of
quite a different habit, not attaining more than
18 inches to 2 feet high. The flowers of this are
probably the highest coloured of any. There are
also many pale-flowered forms, and also an albino
named

S. MACRANTHA KlENASTIANA, which grows as
tall as the typical plant and is in every way iden-
tical, excepting in the colour of its blooms, which
are of the purest white. This is a very rare
plant, but is well represented in the celebrated
collection of Baron Schrceder and one or two other
gardens.

S. MACRANTHA Prinoess May is another dis-
tinct kind, of dwarf habit, growing from 2 feet to
3 feet high, and producing flowers with pine
white sepals and petals, the lip beautifully shaded
w uli delicate heliotrope. This is of recent intro-
duction. During recent years also we have had
some exceedingly fine species added to the genus.
One of the most distinct is

S. ledcoxantha, imported from Costa Rica. It
is of fine intermediate habit, and has flowers each
measuring about 5 inches across. These are pure
white, the lip being beautifully crisped and with a
golden yellow throat, from which radiate streaks
of orange. Another fine kind, and which makes
a beautiful companion for this, is

S. xantholecca, growing about the same
height, and producing at the top of the Reed-like
stems enormous blooms of a rich yellow through-
out. The lip is shaded with a deeper tint and
beautifully frilled.

S. Hard van a is another variety of exceptional
merit, having tine broad sepals and petals of
delicate blush, the latter being deeper than the
former, whilst the lip is deep rose in front and
golden yellow in the throat.

Wm. Hcciii Gower.

Cbysis bractescens. — A plant of this now in
bloom in the collection of Mr. Moore, Chardwar,
Bourton-on -the- Water, Gloucestershire, carries
eleven tine blooms upon one spike. This, I think,
is a very unusual number. It is certainly the

finest spike I have either seen or heard of, and it
is undoubtedly a rare occurrence to find so many
blooms upon a single raceme. This is a lovely,
strong-growing, deciduous Orchid that enjoys
plenty of light and heat. During the winter
months a cooler temperature and very little water
are necessary. It was introduced from Mexico
about fifty-five years ago, and since that time it
has often been sent home from other parts of
South America with C. aurea. which latter it
greatly resembles when not in flower. — W. H. G.
Odontoglossum crispum. — "Beginner" has
just taken Orchids in hand, and has begun with
some imported pieces of this use'ul kind. These
should not ^be allowed to bloom the first season,
that is to say, those which are already showing
flower spikes, because the strain upon the plants
before they become established will in all proba-
bility severely weaken, and possibly entirely kill
them. It is a good plan to let the spike develop
until the buds are produced, and then to pinch
all these off excepting one or two, which will be
enough to decide whether it is a good or bad
variety. A few other suitable Orchids for ama-
teurs other than Odontoglossums are Cypripe-
dium insigne, C. spectabile, Oncidium tigrinum,
0. incurvum, Ladia anceps, L albida, Cattleya
Triamv, C. Mossia", C. Mendeli, Ada aurantiaca,
Vanda Amesiana, and V. Kimballiana. — G.

Orchids at Sherwood, Beckenham. — In
the small collection in this garden are many fine
varieties of useful Orchids now in flower, amongst
them being good examples of Cypripedium Law-
renceanum, C. barbatum, both in good form, and
a piece of Schomburgkia tibicinis carrying ten
fine flowers. A beautiful variety of Cattleya in-
termedia is also open, as are Lycaste cruenta,
Oncidium incurvum, Brassia verrucosa, and a
nice specimen of Oncidium leucochilum, a strong-
growing plant, producing leaves each nearly a
foot in length, whilst the scape, which is much
branched, will often grow 5 feet or 6 feet high,
The individual flowers measure I1- inches in dia-
meter, the sepals and petals are greenish yellow,
barred with brown, and the lip when first open is
quite white. — G.

Oncidium Cebolleta. — I recently noticed a
fine plant of this curious species. It produces
round, tapering leaves, each from S inches to 15
inches long, whilst the flower-spike seldom exceeds
more than about half the length of the foliage.
It has been found over a large portion of Brazil,
Mexico and the West Indies, and consequently
differs somewhat in the colour and markings of
its flowers. These usually are yellow, spotted
with chestnut-red, and in the best forms the lip is
bright canary-yellow. In our gardens it is also
known as Oncidium juncifolium and Oncidium
longifolium. — W.

Ccelog-yne pandurata. — This is a remarkable
Orchid, the unusual colour of its flowers always
making it a conspicuous object. A flower comes
from "J. W." which measures quite 4 inches
across, the sepals and petals nearly equal and of a
uniform pale green, whilst the curiously formed
lip is yellow, blotched and streaked with black.
Although curious it is very pretty, and must be
classed amongst the largest flowered in the genus.
It was first discovered in the hottest jungles in
Sarawak, and consequently requires strong heat
and plenty of moisture under cultivation. This
is not, however, the only green-flowered CVlogyne,
for there is another, also introduced by Messrs.
Low and Co., of Clapton. This is Ctelogyne
Parishi, the flowers of which are only about 2 inchee
in diameter, the colour yellowish green, the lip
spotted and veined with black. In C. Parishi the
flower-spike rises from the t:p of the pseudo-bulb,
and in C. pandurata this proceeds from the side
of the bulb.— H.

Dendrobium suavissimum. — This, among
the brightest coloured of the golden yellow Den-
drobes, is an excellent Orchid for exhibition. It
is strictly evergreen, having shortish fusiform
pseudo-bulbs each bearing about three leaves, thick
and leathery in texture. The racemes are pro-
duced from near the tops of the pseudo-bulbs and

348

THE GARDEN

[Mat 18, 1895

the blossoms are deliciously scented. It is one of
the freest flowering of this section, but unless the
plants are vigorous it is better to restrict the
number of spikes, as if too many are left the eyes
at the base of the pseudo-bulbs are apt to become
blind, the plants being apparently too weak to
push new growths. When this occurs they must
not be allowed to flower at all, or probably the
plants will be killed outright, but every en-
couragement ought to be given to induce the
eyes to break. If the plants have been long in
the same compost they should be turned out of the
pots and spread on a moist stage, treating them
after the manner of newly-imported plants, re-
placing them in the pots as soon as they show
signs of breaking. What causes this cessation of
growth it is difficult to say, but overflowering
certainly predisposes the plant to it. I have also
noticed this in D. chrysotoxum and D. clavatum,
but never in D. densiflorum or thyrsiflorum,
though possibly they are also subject to it. With
strong and vigorous plants to commence with,
there is no difficulty in keeping D. suavissimum
healthy and obtaining a full complement of flowers
annually. Like most of the evergreen kinds, it
may be grown in the Cattleya house and should
not be much dried at the root in winter, a few
weeks' rest in a lower temperature being all that
is necessary. Newly-imported plants may be
established in very small pots, and at no time is a
large receptacle necessary. E>. suavissimum is a
native of Burmah, and although sometimes classed
as a variety of D. chrysotoxum, is abundantly dis-
tinct both in habit and flowers. — H.

ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPtJM
VIRGINALE.

Odontoglossum okispdm lias been not inaptly
described as the queen of Orchids, and the
variety here figured is the most chaste and
lovely fonn of the species in existence. Al-
though many of the spotted varieties (guttatum
section) possess greater value from a monetary
point of view, this pure white variety must be
awarded the first place for its delicate beauty,
the glistening white of the sepals and petals
and the refined appearance of the flowers having
a subtle and indescribable charm possessed by
no other kind. Although no other varietal
name is recorded, O. c. virginale does vary both
in size and in the width of the petals. A fine
form that I flowered in 1893 measured 5 inches
across the petals. These were each 1£ inches
across, pure white, without any spot or mark-
ing except the yellow crest to the lip, and of
great substance. O. c. virginale appears to have
been named and first exhibited by Messrs. B.
S. Williams and Son, of Holloway, at South
Kensington in 1882, when it was deservedly
awarded a first-class certificate by the Royal
Horticultural Society. Since then it has
appeared in many other collections, but good
forms are still uncommon. Like all the varieties
of this specits, it requiresacool, moistatmosphere
all the year round ; the house where it is grown
must be heavily shaded all through the summer
months in order to keep the temperature
as low as possible, and air must be ad-
mitted night and day. During the winter the
plants must be arranged close to the glass, so
as to catch every ray of light, and the tempera-
ture at this season ought not to fall below 48°.
Very little is needed in the way of compost, a
thin layer of peat and Sphagnum sufficing over
the drainage, which must be sufficient to carry
off the copious supplies of water that are needei
during the growing season. If the atmosphere
is right, the Sphagnum will grow freely and
form a dense cushion around the base of the
pseudo-bulbs, keeping them cool and causing
them to root freely. A little of this may be re-
moved on the approach of winter, but not suffi-

cient to bare the roots. Slugs and small snails
work a good deal of mischief among the spikes
when growing, and this entails watchfulness and
care on the part of the cultivator. The culture
of Odontoglossums was referred to somewhat in
detail recently in The Garden, and the treat-
ment there advised for the typical O. crispum
suits this variety in every respect. R.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON ORCHIDS.
The almost tropical weather by day and the
cold nights and harsh winds prevailing have
lately necessitated a great deal of care and atten-
tion to the ventilation, shading and damping.
In order to keep the atmosphere moist the
syringe must be freely plied between the pots,

day until the pseudo-bulbs plump up, and care
is necessary to avoid snapping off the flowers,
as these are extremely brittle. Ab the earliest
plants go out of bloom they may have the com-
post put in order, not disturbing the roots
more than is absolutely necessary, and carefully
watering for a time until the roots are again on
the move. Large-growing Vandas of the tri-
color, suavis. and gigantea type may be ar-
ranged on the central stage of the Cattleya
house, where they will be subjected to a
slightly lower temperature, but more sun-
light than in the East India house, this
consolidating the growth and being more con-
ducive to free flowering. Ccelogyne cristata is
an accommodating plant as to temperature, but
dislikes strong sunlight, and must on this

and, excepting in the Cattleya house, fairly account be placed in a shady corner. If not
heavy syringings overhead are also advisable. ; already done the plants must be looked over for
These must not be given too frequently, how- insects and carefully sponged, or red spider and
ever, or late in the day, as too much moisture ! scale may possibly put in an appearance on the
about the young shoots at night is apt to cause ; young foliage, greatly disfiguring it and weaken-
decay. A little heat must still be kept in the j ing the plants. Burlingtonia decora is a strag-
pipes in the East India and Cattleya houses, : gling growing plant, and after flowering should
this allowing of free ventilation in the mornings | have attention. The rhizomes may be notched
before the blinds are let down. All arrears of halt-way through between each pseudo-bulb,

disposing these as regularly as
possible over the surface of the
compost, and filling in when
7iecessary with fresh peat and
Sphagnum. This is very ad-
vantageous to the plants, as
many of the old pseudo-bulbs
produce new growths, making
a more shapely and better
furnished specimen. In the
cool house Masdevallias and
Restrepias are flowering freely.
These are very subject to the
attacks of yellow thrips, and
frequent fumigations have to
be resorted to if the insects are
plentiful.

Disa grandiflora is also sub-
ject to their attacks if not kept
well syringed overhead and
freely watered at the roots.
The plants of this are best
arranged close to a ventilator
kept always open or near the
door, as it is impossible now
to keep them too cool under
glass. Insects must be vigor-
ously attacked on every possible occasion, and
every care taken to promote a free, healthy
growth in all departments. I recently saw
a fine specimen of Ccelogyne asperata, which

The racemes

Odontoglossum crispum virginale. Engraved for The Garden from
a photograph sent by Mr. W. Taylor, Glasgow.

spring potting should be seen to at once and the

plants arranged for this season's growth. Den-

drobiums, as they become established in the

new pots, may have the lightest and sunniest

positions, such as an unshaded end where they I is apparently not much grown

get the sun nearly all the morning, or where of flower are about a foot in length, but would

there is an opening between the blinds. Thunias, probably be longer in very strong plants. Each

too, delight in a sunny position, and, like the
aforementioned genus, like a brisk, moist heat.
These and Calanthes, or other semi-terrestrial
kinds potted some time since, are now growing
freely and will require increased supplies of mois-
ture as the roots run into the new compost. A
deal of care is still necessary, however, and
it is much better to err on the side of too
little water than too much, as the old pseudo

flower was about 3J inches across, the sepals
and petals creamy white, the lip similar in
ground colour, with a bright orange-yellow
centre, from which radiate brown lines. The
flowers are very agreeably scented, the pseudo-
bulbs strong, and each bearing a pair of long
lanceolate leaves over a foot in length. Being
such a strong-growing kind it requires ample
root room, and may be grown in equal parts of

bulbs are still fairly fresh and supply the young I peat and Sphagnum, with plenty of small crocks

shoots with moisture sufficient for their sus-
tenance. Cymbidiums, Cypripediums, Aerides,
and other shade-loving Orchids will be better
arranged in the body of the house, a little
further from the glass where the action of the
sun is not quite so powerful at closing time. It
is not advisable to keep Odontoglossum citros-
muni dry after this date, as any plants strong
enough to flower should by this time have the
spikes well advanced. A good soaking in a
large pail or tub should be given every other

This species is a native of Borneo, where it
grows on the banks and in the vicinity of rivers
in low, marshy positions. It was discovered
and introduced by Messrs. Hugh Low and Co.
about fifty years ago, and thrives in a Cattleya
house temperature. R.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Oncidium sareod.es. — This is now commencing
to open its blooms. It is of very easy culture, and

May 18, 1895 J

THE GARDEN.

349

Bhould bo in every collection however small. The
flowers are produced on long arching racemes, and
individually measure upwards of 2 inches in diameter.
The sepals and petals are clear yellow, heavily blotched
with che-tnut-brown, the lip bright yellow with a few
Bmall spots at the base. It grows on the Organ
Mountains at considerable elevations. — G.

Cypripedium maeropterum.— This is across
between (J. Lowi and C. superbiens, the leaves being
prettily tessellated as in the latter. The flowers are
large, with long, broad, droping petals of a purplish-
mauve colour, finely spotted with black. The lip is
also of good form, helmet-shaped, and pale yellowish
brown. It is a very desirable plant and one that is by
no means common outside the best collections. — G.

Schomburgkia tibicinis. — I am in receipt of
blooms of this from Geo. Challis, who states that they
have been open and in full beauty for a very consider-
able time. Individually the flowers measure just on
3 inches across and are very showy. The petals are
narrower than the sepa's, more undulated, and of
a rich purplish-rose ; the lip is yellow, streaked with
purple, the front lobe white, with a purplish margin.
The flowers are produced several together at the top
of a long spike, which attains several fee; in length. —
W.

Burlingtonia fragrans. — This sweetly-scented
little plant deserves a p'ace in every collection on
account of the powerful fragrance of the flowers,
which very much resembles that of our common llaw-
1 horn. It is of dwarf habit and succeeds best upon a
block of wood or in a shallow pan. It should be
placed in a temperature similar to that of the Cattleya
house. The flowers are pure white, with a sta:n of
yellow on the lip. It is a native of Brazil, where it is
said to grow on the lrghest branches of the Cedar
trees. — W. G.

Societies and Exhibit.ons.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
May 14.

Having regard to the fast approaching Temple
show of next week, the exhibits at the Drill Hall
on the above date were most extensive. The
Royal Botanic Society's show held on the follow-
ing day would in a measure explain the presence
of some few groups, which were taken from one
centre to the other, but beyond all these possi-
bilities the display was of a most encouraging
character, no better testimony being needed of the
increasing popularity of these bi-monthly meet-
ings. The lecture created more than the usual
amount of interest and was very well attended.
Particulars relating to this part of the programme
will be found in the detailed report following
these remarks.

Hardy cut flowers occupied the greatestamount
of space at this meeting, this being just the height
of the season for late Tulips (Parrot and florist
vars. ) and many of the best species. The late
Daffodils were staged in extensive numbers,
so were other popular early spring flowers, as
Spir.-eas, Paeonies, Violas, hardy Cypripediums,
Rhododendrons, and Lilacs (in great variety, both
single and double varieties). Cut Roses were also
specially good. Of plants there was no lack to
fill a goodly space ; the best of these were a fine
specimen of Medinilla magnifica, well-grown
Gloxinias of a splendid strain, new Caladiums, as
well as other choice varieties. Of Orchids there
was not such an extensive display; nevertheless a
number of very choice kinds was staged, Cypripe-
diums in this instance coming to the front, several
also of the Veitchian hybrids being strongly en
evidence. The fruit committee was not in any
S3nse heavily taxed, the most noteworthy exhibit
being the new Strawberry Leader, to which a
first-class certificate was awarded. Cucumbers
are now coming forward in considerable numbers,
but no new kind of marked advance was shown,
although good types of varieties already in com-
merce were to be seen. The plan adopted of
screening off a portion of tho hall for the specially
prepared specimens to illustrate the lecture was
suggestive of what should be done to shut off the
committees during their deliberations. It does

not seem to be altogether a difficult matter to do
this instead of having the present arrangement of
curtains, &c.

Orchid Committee.

First-class certificates were on this occasion
awarded to —

Cypripedium Godefroy^; leucochilum. — A
most beautiful and extraordinary form, bearing
an enormous flower upon quite a small plant, the
former being to all appearance cjuite out of all
proportion to the latter. In outline the flower
bears a resemblance to that of C bellatulum ; the
dorsal sepal is, however, much larger, whilst the
lip, instead of being spotted, is of a pure creamy
white, this shade being the ground colour through-
out, the other marking being dark bronzy purple
spots running in lines in the dorsal sepal, whilst
the petals were very profusely spotted in the
same colour and fully If inches in width. From
Mr. R. J. Measures, Cambridge Lodge, Camber-
well.

Cytripedium Gertrude Hollington (C. cilio-
lare X C. bellatulum). — Previous hybrids have been
exhibited resulting from this or nearly allied
crosses, but the presert variety surpasses them all
and must be classed with the veiy finest hybrids
now in cultivation. The growth is remarkably
vigorous, the stout, fleshy, dark-coloured pro-
cumbent leaves being some 3 inches across and
7 inches in length. The flower was also unusually
large, with very broad semi-drooping petals fully
lj inches wide ; the ground colour of which and
that of the dorsal sepal is a creamy white, with a
profusion of dark vinous-purple spots and shading
of the same tint on tho petals, whilst in the dorsal
sepal the same colour runs in veins. The lip is of
extra size also and of a dark bronzy purple shade.
From Messrs. H. Low and Co., Upper Clapton.

Awards of merit were given to —

Epidendrum O'Brienianum roseum. — A dark
rosy form of this beautiful hybrid between E.
radicans and E. evectum, the spike of flowers
being somewhat slender with the growth erect.
E. O'Brienianum itself has deep crimson-coloured
flowers, this form of it being quite distinct in
this respect. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons,
Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea.

Cattleya Men deli Princess of Wales. — A
most charming variety, the sepals and petals
flushed with light pink, the most distinctive fea-
ture, however, being the intensely brilliant blotch
of dark crimson -purple upon the lip, in contrast
to which the old gold veinings in the throat stood
out very conspicuously. From Mr. De Barri
Crawshay, Rosefield, Sevenoaks.

ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM VAR. TlIE BRIDE. —

One of the most beautiful white varieties of this
popular Odontoglot yet exhibited, with flowers of
the purest white, the sepals and petals of great
breadth, the golden spotting upon the labellum
adding to the beauty of each flower, of which
there were fourteen upon the stout semi-erect
spike. From Mr. VV. Thompson, Walton Grange,
Staffs.

Cattleya Mendeli var. leucoglossa. — One of
the most delicately beautiful forms of this fine
Cattleya yet shown, the sepals and petals having
the faintest possible flush upon a white ground,
the labellum itself being pure white and deeply
fringed, faint golden lines appearing in the
thrjat, all traces of the crimson-purple being
lost. From Mr. Thos. Statter, Stand Hall, Man-
chester.

Botanical certificates were awarded to Dendro-
bium taurinum (the Bull-headed Dendrobe), the
sepals and petals yellowish green, the lip light
purple, growth erect, the spike terminal with
twelve flowers ; from Messrs. J. Veitch and
Sons; Cirrhopetalum grandiflorum, with larger
flowers than usual, these being of a pale golden
shade with dark veins (shown as C. Macra'i),
from Mrs. Langton, Reigate, and Dendrobium
Strongylanthum, a botanical curiosity, and no-
thing more. From Messrs. H. Low and Co.

Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons sent a very bright and
attractive group, comprising a variety of good

things, amongst which were Ladio-Cattleya Latona
and L. C. Hippolyte (L. cinnabarinaxC. Mossise)
with the traces of L. cinnabarina very distinct in
both instances, the former with light orange-
yellow flowers and those of the latter of the
same colour, only deeper, a rose - purple suf-
fusion being apparent. These are two superb
hybrids. Cattleya Mosshe, a fine dark form,
C. Mendeli, C. Schriedera', and Lalia purpurata
in fine varieties were included, also several Cypri-
pediums, as C. caudatum Wallisi with pale golden
tail-like petals of great length, shaded bronze
towards the extremities, the dorsal sepal being of
the same colour and the inner portion of the lip
of the purest white, the one spike bearing four
flowers ; C. Euryale, partaking greatly of C.
Lawrenceanum, one of its parents, but with the
petals spotted as in C. Argus; C. selligerum
majus, a fine flower; C. orphanum, a distinct
hybrid, and C. Rothschildianum in good form.
Chysis Chelsoni, a lovely hybrid of rich colouring,
deeper in this respect than usual; Disa langley-
ensis, a beautiful rosy pink hybrid with as many as
twelve flowers and buds to the spike, the growth
compact; Masdevalliasplendida var. Parlatoreana,
deep orange flushed with purple ; and Masdevallta
grandiflora, an extra fine form of M. Veitchi,
which was itself also shown, were also sent.
Dendrobiums were represented by D. thyrsiflorum
with fine spikes, by D. glomeratum, a singularly
beautiful Dendrobe with flowers of a rich rose-
purple colour, the lip being singularly small and
of a darker tint, and by D. infundibulum, a hand-
some species not now often seen. Of Odontoglos-
sums there were good white forms of 0. crispum,
0. triumphans, and 0. Uro Skinneri in good
character. Oncidium superbiens, a fine species
of the O. macranthum habit; Cymbidium Low-
ianum with the crimson of the lip of a deeper
shade than usual ; Oncidium ampliatum majus,
Dendrobium Phakvnopsis Schrtederianum, Maxil-
laria Sanderiana with extra fine flowers, the dark
chocolate and pure white in decided contrast ;
Odontoglossum Ruckerianum with a good branch-
ing spike, and Cypripedium bellatulum, unusually
vigorous in growth, were included (award silver
Flora medal).

Mr. W. Thompson sent a smaller group con-
sisting chiefly of extra fine forms of the best
varieties of the Odontoglots, amongst which were
O. cordatum aureum, a pale golden form with
its flowers singularly like those of a Brassia in
style, and O. Ruckerianum ocellatum, an extra fine
variety of deep colour, the flush of purplish rose
and the deep chocolate spots making it very con-
spicuous, the flowers being of extra size also.
Odontoglossum Rossi rubescens is quite a distinct
form, the white having given place to pale rose in
the lip and on the petals, the plant profusely
flowered. OdontoglossumAndersonianum (Thomp-
son's var.) has a clear white ground colour and
chocolate spots and blotches, and others of a dis-
tinct crimson shade at the base. 0. crispum, a sin-
gularly distinct variety, has some of the features of
O. Andersonianum in its small spots, the whole
flower being flushed with rosy purple. Cattleya
Skinneri alba, which also came from Mr. Thomp-
son, is quite a gem amongst Cattleyas, with the
purest white flowers, every suspicion of colour
as seen in C Skinneri itself being obliterated,
only the faintest trace of pale sulphur appearing
in the throat (silver Banksian medal).

Other exhibits of Orchids were not numerous,
still some few very good things were shown. Two
very vigorous examples of Phaius sp. in the way
of P. Sanderianus, but scarcely so handsome,
came from Mr. H. Weetman, Little Haywood.
One plant bore two spikes and the other one ; in
each case these had already reached the height of
ok feet, being scarcely more than half expanded
(a cultural commendation was awarded). From
Mr. H. Grinling, Harrow Weald, came Cypripe-
dium caudatum Wallisi, not quite so far advanced
as Messrs. Veitch's example, hence not so rich in
colour. C. tortile came from the same source, its
rather long petals being twisted; in other respects
it bore some likeness to C. laevigatum. Messrs.
F. Horsman, Colchester, showed Odontoglossum

350

THE UARDEN.

[May 18, 1895.

nat. hyb., intermediate between O. maculatum
and 0. cordatum. Mr. W. Cobb showed Cattleya
Mossias (Dulcote var ), in which the lip was
broader than usual and deeply fringed. Mr.
Smee sent from The Grange, VVallington, a
noteworthy example of Odontoglossum cirrhosum
flowering upon the old spikes of last year, as well
as on this year's also. Mr. Cummings (gardener)
stated " that the tallest spikes bloomed last year
and afterwards produced bracts or leaves, flower-
ing again on the same spikes this year. The other
spike has been made this spring." Mr. Thos.
Statter showed Cattleya Chtsiana in the way of
C. intermedia, having pile rosy-flushed sepals and
petals and faint crimson spots, the lip being
deeply fringed and much darker in colour. Mr.
J. Gurney Fowler, Woodford, showed Cattleya
Mendeli (Glebelands var.), a very fine form, with
pure white sepals and petals (the latter being of
extra breadth), the lip of a purplish crimson,
with pale golden throat. Another variety of
the same species had a rosy lilac lip and
slightly flushed sepals and petals. Messrs. H.
Low and Co. showed Laelia purpurata Schrcvdene,
having very faint purplish veins on the labellum ;
also L. p. Russelliana, in which a pale purple
supplanted the deeper shade usually seen. C. Schil-
leriana— quite a gem amongst the dwarf species —
was also included, bearing very fine flowers. A
few hybrid Cypripediums in which C. niveum and
C. concolor had made impressions were also in-
cluded. From Mr. Ward, Salisbury, came a good
form of Odontoglossum crispum, whilst a similar
exhibit came from Mr. de Barri Crawshay, who
also had a twin-bulbed plant of Odontoglossum
Andersonianum bearing a good spike.

Floral Committee.

Awards of merit were granted to the follow-
ing—

_ Lilac La Tour d'Auvergne. — A handsome va-
riety with a dense truss, the flowers mostly semi-
double and of a deep rosy lilac colour. Shown by
Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt.

Sambdcus racemosa aurea. — A yellow form of
the cut-leaved Elder, the colour of the leaves pale
greenish yellow, distinct and pretty, as the variega-
tion is of a healthy tone. From Messrs. K. Wez-
lenburg and Son, Leyden, Holland.

Toltpa elegans ALBA.— This charming variety
of an old garden species has pure white flowers,
with the faintest margin of red on the edges of
the petals. The colour does not spread into the
petals, as in another edged Tulip named Picotee.
It is also useful for its late-flowering and has the
tall, handsome character of the Gesneriana va-
rieties. Shown by Messrs. Barr and Son.

Tulips— quite the chief feature of the meeting —
were nobly represented in the great group" of
hardy flowers staged by Messrs. Barr and Son,
which occupied one side of the Drill Hall. The
late-flowering species included T. Gesneriana,
T. vitellina, a charming cream-white Tulip ;
T. flava, T. fulgens, brilliant in colour ; T. ele-
gans, T. Batalini and T. macrospeila — all shown
in quantity and fine form. It is a pity these Tulips
are not more common in gardens. The new race
of self-coloured Gesner Tulips was noteworthy
in this group, and the varieties shown— about
twenty in number— represented a selection of the
very best, picked out from a trial of over 200
kinds. A fine lot of the florists' Tulip in breeder
and rectified forms was also shown. We noticed
that the visitors gathered round the noble Gesner
Tulips, which in decided colours are by far the
most pleasing. Irises in variety, single Paeonies in
fine distinct kinds, alpine Phloxes and other
interesting flowers of the season made up the
group, to which a silver-gilt Banksian medal was
awarded.

Mr. Ware, of Tottenham, also had a fine group
of hardy flowers, comprising Tree Peonies (pot
plants), carrying numerous flowers, Spiraea astil-
boides, S. palmata, and S. japonica compacta,
Sarracenia flava, hardy Cypripediums, good
specimens, carrying many flowers ; Anemone
narcissiflora, a pretty, little-known species; and
cut flowers in quantity of the best late Tulips

in variety, Irises, and early flowering Gladioli.
A silver Flora medal was awarded. A similar
award was made to Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons,
of Chelsea, for a large group of Tulips. The
grotesque and showy Parrot varieties were most
prominent, especially Cratnoisi Brilliant, rich
dark crimson; Constantinople, blight crimson;
and Perfecta, crimson and yellow. A variety
called Coffee Colour, of dull and dreary tints,
seems hardly needed in this section. T. Bouton
d'Or was good in this group, also T. Gesneriana,
T. fulgens, and several bizarre and bybhemen
varieties. Messrs. Veitch also showed the follow-
ing Caladiums : Marquis of Camden, large leaf,
red, with darker coloured veins ; Sir Julian
Goldsmid, red veined, lighter red and white
in the body of the leaf ; Lord Derby, leaves soft
rose, veined with green ; and Sir William Broad-
bent, with bright red leaf veins, and blotched
with white on a green ground. Messrs. J. Laing
and Sons received a silver-gilt Banksian medal
for a grand group of Gloxinias arranged with
Ferns and Palms. The plants were carrying fine
flowers of erect habit and rich colour, especially
of note being John Laing, bright crimson self ;
Mrs. J. Laing, deep purple, with white margin
to the petals, a large well-formed flower ; Majes-
tic, purple, with white throat ; and Lord Hilling-
don, crimson throat, and broad white margined
petals. Streptocarpus Royal Purple in this group
was conspicuous, having fine flowers, deep blue,
veined with purple ; also Caladium Rose Laing,
the leaves of great size, white, with ro3y tints
about the centre of the leaf. Mr. G. Mount, of
Canterbury, again showed Roses well, chiefly
Hybrid Perpetuals, the best being Mrs. J.
Liing, General Jacqueminot, and Ulrich Brun-
ner. A silver-gilt Banksian medal was awarded.
Messrs. J. Peed and Sons had a group of fine-
foliaged plants, including Caladiums, Dracae-
nas, Strobilanthes Dyerianus, and Begonia Ar-
thur Malet, the last two bright in leaf colour.
A silver Banksian medal was awarded. Messrs.
G. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, received a bronze
Banksian medal for a group of Cannas, Lilacs
in fine variety, President Carnot, pale blue
and double, Marie Legraye, white, and Souvenir
de Louis Spath, specially notevorthy, and seed-
ling Rhododendron?, hybrids between R. For-
tunei and named varieties, one named Mrs. C.
Butler, with large, soft flesh-pink flowers, being
remarkably distinct and good. Messrs. J. Cheal
and Sons, of Crawley, sent an interesting lot of
cut specimens of the best flowering and coloured-
leaved trees and shrubs, comprising the Japanese
and other double Cherries, l'yrus Malus in variety,
Spirasas, Rhodotypos kerrioides, Akebia quinata,
purple Hazel, Acer platanoides Schwedleri, with
bright red leaves and other well-known trees. A
bronze Banksian medal was awarded. Mr. Anthony
Waterer showed Lilac Souvenir de Louis Spath,
with fine deep-coloured, large trusses, and Alba
Grandirlora, this latter-named kind being also well
shown from Panshanger Gardens. Mr. W. Paul,
of Waltham Cross, sent some new Roses. Clio
and Corinna are now |.vell known ; Sylphe has a
pale pink flower, which deepens to rose, full and
of fine form ; Empress of Russia in its bold
globular flower resembles Archiduchesse Marie
Immaculata, but is distinct in colour, having that
metallic and copper-red hue of L' Ideal. The
flowers and growth indicate a robust habit.
Queen Mab, a China variety, also promises well,
with lovely buds of a deep buff colour, expanding
into pale fawn-yellow flowers. Rose, Crimson
Rambler was shown by Mr. Hudson, of Gunners-
bury House Gardens, in fine many-flowered clusters
cut from a plant planted out in a greenhouse, and
the same exhibitor sent a finely-bloomed branch
of the Judas Tree. Mr. Moore, of the Botanic
Gardens, Glasnevin, sent cut specimens of two
Browneas, the flower-trusses of huge size, with
the blooms crowded into a dense mass ; Crinum
capense, fine spikes from the open ground, and
hybrid Sarracenia?, one with pure white petals,
others a dark brown red, and many in inter-
mediate shades. A rich saffron-yellow Globe
Flower named Golden Gate came from Messrs.

Koll and Sontag, Rhine Nurseries, Dusseldorf, and
Auriculas and Polyanthuses were sent by Mr. R.
Maitland, Comrie Castle, Dunfermline, Fife. A
fine specimen of Medinilla magnifica bearing many
of its large drooping flower clusters was shown by
Mr. J. F. McLeod, Dover House Gardens, Roe-
hampton.

Daffodils in competition for Mr. Barr's prizes
were again shown, Mr. R. Maitland, Comrie
Castle, being first, and Mr. C. J. Backhouse, St.
John's, Walsingham, Darlington, second. Mr.
Backhouse also staged another much larger group
for the cup competition, but the three weeks'
interval between the meetings has greatly handi-
capped the northern growers, and they were un-
able to show but few of the trumpet-flowered
kinds. There was only one entry for the prizes
for Tulips, Mr. J. T. Bennett-Poo receiving first
prize for a well-grown varied lot.

Fruit Committee.

There was only a limited number of exhibits
before this committee, specially interesting being
Messrs. Laxton's new Strawberry and some
Canary Island fruit and vegetables.

A first-class certificate was awarded to —
Strawberry Leader. — A very fine fruit, a
cross between Noble and Latest of All. The
fruits are wedge-shaped, of a lich brisk flavour,
and firm, the seeds being prominent. From
Messrs. Laxton Brothers, Beelford.

From Syon House, Brentford, Mr. Wythes
sent a very fine elish of Amsden June Peach to
show its value for early forcing. Mr. Oilman,
Ingestre Gardens, Stafford, sent a fair - sized
Melon, a seedling white flesh and slightly netted,
but too ripe. Mr. McLeod, Dover House, Roe-
hampton, sent a nice dish of Asparagus. Mr.
Mortimer, Swiss Nursery, Rowledge, Farnham,
sent a dozen very pretty fruits of a new Cucum-
ber named Marvel, the plant also being shown in
fruit. Mr. J. Vert, Audley End Gardens, Saffron
Walden, also sent some very fine Cucumbers,
ribbed, and of great length, the varieties
being Vert's Improved and Vert's Favourite.
Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery,
Chelsea, sent Allan's Favourite Cucumber. As
there is to be a trial of Cucumbers at Chiswiek
shortly the committee recjuested that the above
varieties be sent for trial. Messrs. Williams and
Son, Upper Holloway, sent a new dwaif Bein
growing in pots. This was shown at a previous
meeting, and requested to be sent to Chiswiek
for trial. Messrs. Elder, Dempster and Co.,
Liverpool, sent a most interesting exhibit from
the Canary Islands to illustrate Dr. Morris's lec-
ture. This included a very fine bunch of Ba-
nanas, cases of Tomatoes and Fluke Potatoes,
which were e|uite ripe anel free of blemish. The
Travelling Horticultural Co. sent models of their
new houses on rails.

The lecture by Dr. Morris, of Kew, on the
"Vegetation of the Canary Islands," received an
added interest, being illustrated by the aid of the
magic lantern, pictures of the vegetation of
the islands being successfully shown on the
screen. He briefly described the geographical
features of the islands, remarking that every acre
of soil cost £'200 to obtain, as the natural soil lies
buried beneath about 20 feet of large stones, which
are gathered together and piled up to make roads
and watercourses for irrigation, whilst not in-
frecjuently you might see them piled together in
the middle of the field with the ground cultivated
around. He briefly reviewed the vicissitudes the
islands have passed through in connection with
their commercial products, which began with the
Vine, which was a success till the dreaded
fungus Oidium ruineel many plantations ; later on
the Sugar-cane was largely planted, but the staple
and profitable industry of the present is the
growth of Bananas, Tomatoes and Potatoes. As
an instance of the richness of the vegetation in
certain parts, he found 800 different plants in a
small area, and of these, 400 are peculiar to the
island, whilst only about 100 of them are at pre-

May 18, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

351

sent in cultivation in this country. Some plants
sent from Kew — natives of the islands— were
shown, including that fine Buttercup, Ranun-
culus cortus;vfolius, the well-known Cytisus race-
mosus, Cytisus filipes, a pretty kind with slender,
preen shoots and pure white, fragrant flowers.
Cineraria cruenta, graceful and showy in the ex-
treme, and others were shown ; whilst illustrat ions
of such as the Dragon Tree, Canary Palm, Fig
trees, with large, but uneatable fruits, and Aloes,
with towering flower-spikes, were shown. Space
does not permit of giving more than the above
bare outline of a lecture that was of special interest
and much appreciated by all who listened to it.

ROYAL BOTANIC.

Summer Show, May 15.

The interest in this fixture certainly seems to be
waning, and there was a distinct falling off in the
competitive exhibits, whilst in many classes there
were no entries at all. The miscellaneous contri-
butions from nurserymen made up the greater
portion of the display. In two classes for stove
and greenhouse plants only one entry appeared,
from Mr. Bond, gardener to Mr. S. T. Fisher,
The Grove, Streatham. This group consisted
chiefly of young Palme, Crotons, and Dracaenas,
6uch as would be used for table decoiation, a
second prize being awatded. Two classes for Or-
chids were represented by one small group, which
was given first prize, from Mr. G. Cragg, Percy
Lodge Gardens, Winchmore Hill. It consisted
chiefly of Cattleyas and Livlias. Mr. Charles
Turner was first for a group of Roses, showing
good specimens, freely flowered, and delightfully
fresh. The bestH.P.'a were Juno, pink ; Charles
Lawson, deep rose ; Ulrich Brunner, cerise ;
Camille Bernardin, and Li France. Edith Gif-
ford and Souvenir de S. A. Prince were good
among Teas ; also Celino Forestier and Crimson
Rambler. Messrs. Paul and Son were second.
Mr. Charles Turner was also first for specimen
Azaleas, but the plants were mere dwarfs com-
pared with the specimens we used to see. Marie
Planchet, pure white, with petals undulated on
their edges; Roi d'Hollande, deep red; and
M. V. Savart, rich blood crimson, were note-
worthy kinds. Mr. Scott, gardener to Miss
Foster, The Holme, Regent's Park, was second.
In the amateurs' class for specimen Azaleas Mr.
Barrell, The Hoo, Sydenham Hill, was first with
very formal rounded specimens. He was also
first for a group of Azaleas, Mr. R. Scott
being second. The first piize for Pelargoniums
went to Mr. Charles Turner. Of show Pelar-
goniums, Mystery, Joe, Maid of Honour, and
Comtesse de Choiseul were good. Among the
fancies, Princess Teck, Fanny Gair, and Ellen
Beck were the best. Mr. Ware, of Tottenham,
was an easy first with a group of hardy plants,
his best specimens being Lilian) Hariisi, L. da-
vuricum, L. candidum, Iris germanica, I. floren-
tina, Saxifraga pyramidalis, Phlox canadensis,
with Spiraeas and hardy Cypripediums. Messrs.
Paul were second. Mr. Ware also received first
prize for a very fine group of Begonias. The
plants, dwarf and freely flowered, consisted of
single and double kinds in equal proportions.
The best Gloxinias came from Mr. Bond, and Mr.
R. Scott was second.

A feature of the show was the grand group of
Roses shown by Messrs. W. Paul and Son, of
Waltham Cross, who received a silver medal.
The specimen plants were finely flowered and
comprised the best varieties. Mrs. John Laing,
Clio, Danmark, Duke of Teck, Magna Charta,
Caroline Testout, and Triomphe de Caen in Hy-
brid Perpetuals were noteworthy. Claire Jac-
quier, a climbing clustered Polyantha Rose with
rich nankeen-yellow buds and paler flowers, was
shown in profuse bloom, whilst cut flowers in
quantity of Mare'chal Niel, Queen of Queens, Clio,
and numerous other Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals
made a conspicuous margin to the group. Equally
meritorious was the group of iine-foliaged and
flowering plants set up by Messrs. J. Laing and

Sons, and with abundant room the arrangement
was of an unusually high character, a silver medal
being awarded. Many good Orchids were in this
group, also Nepenthes, Caladiums, Palms, Dra-
caenas, with Gloxinias and Streptocarpi. Messrs.
B. S. W7illiams and Son had a large group of
Palms, Caladiums, Crotons and Draca-nas, a silver
medal being awarded. Mr. R. Scott received a
small silver medal for a group of flowering and
fine-leaved plants, and a bronze medal was awarded
to Mr. Perry, gardener to Mr. J. C. Tasker,
Middleton Hall, Brentwood, for a smaller group
of the same character. Roses, specimen plants,
and cut flowers were also well shown by Mr. W.
Rumsey, of Joyning's Nurseries, Waltham Cross,
who received a silver medal, whilst a broir.e
medal went to Mr. G. Mount, of Canterbury, for
a smaller, but meritorious, lot of cut Roses.
Messrs. Veitch sent a group of Tulips which was
given a silver medal, and Messrs. Barr received a
small silver medal for Tulips and other hardy
flowers, both exhibits practically identical with
those that appeared at the Drill Hall on Tuesday.
Mr. Ware received a bronze medal for a fine
group of Tulips and early Gladioli, and a similar
award for a group of Tree Peonies grown in pots
and carrying good flowers. Mr. T. Rivers, of
Sawbridgeworth, showed fruiting plants in pots
of Early Rivers Nectarine. The fruits were of
large size and richly coloured. Trees of Early
Beatrice Peach and May Duke Cherry in fruit
were also shown. A silver medal was awarded.
Messrs. Paul and Son were awarded a bronze
medal for Cannas and Lilacs in fine variety. Cut
flower decorations from Messrs. B. S. Williams
and Son received a silver medal, the same going
to Messrs. Dobbie for a fine display of Violas,
Blush Queen, Marie Stuart, Sylvia, William Niel,
Iona, Gipsy Queen, Max Kolb and Picotee being
conspicuous. Standard plants of Mignonette were
shown by Mr. \V. Barrell. A Carnation named
Blenheim Beauty, with large, white, purple-
flaked, Malmaison like flowers, came from Mr. T.
Whillans, Blenheim Gardens, and Mr. Knowles,
of Woking, showed Daphne cneorum, a variety
rather darker in colour than the type, and said to
be a fortnight later in coming into bloom.

A full prize list will be found in our advertise-
ment columns.

Notes of the Week.

Alstrcemeria pelegrina alba. — This, one of
the choicest of the species, is flowering capitally
in a cool greenhouse at Shedfield Lodge. The
pure white, delicately tinted green flowers are so
pleasing, that it is a wonder this Alttm-meria is
not grown more largely. — E. M.

Iris Cosnias is a pretty Cushion Iris now
flowering in Mr. Ware's nursery. It has a fine
large flower, the standards clear yellow, with dark
purple markings at their base, the falls of the same
shade, pencilled with purple and with bright
yellow crests. It is altogether a distinct and
handsome flower.

Lindelofia longifolia is a handsome spring-
flowering, hardy plant of the Forget-me-not
family, more robust than the old L. spectabilis.
A bunch of it was noticeable in Mr. Barr's group
at the Drill Hall on Tuesday. The flowers, of a
deep rich Gentian -blue colour and nearly as large
as those of the Borage, are freely produced on
long leafy shoots.

Iris nudicaulis is one of the best of the spring
Irises, and, like I. pumila, makes charming groups
and flowers with wonderful profusion. Mr. Ware
has a quantity of it at Tottenham, and the planta-
tions are a perfect sheet of rich purple flowers.
These dwarf Irises ought to be popular plants,
judging from their great beauty and easy growth
in free, warm soils.

Ixiolirion macranthum is a fine species well
shown on Tuesday at the Drill Hall by Messrs.
Barr. Its flowers, of a deep uniform blue colour,
; re large and long in the tube, and borne in fine

umbels on a long, stout stalk. I. Pallasi is another
fine blue kind. The bulbs are best lifted eveiy
year, and planted again late in autumn rather
deeply in light rich, well-drained soil.

Strawberry Scarlet Queen.— Mr. A. Trail,

The Gardens, Falshaw Hall. Wilmslow, sends us
some remarkably fine forced fruits of this Straw-
berry. The fruit is of medium size, bright scarlet
in colour, the flavour brisk. Mr. Trail says he
finds Scarlet Queen do well outdoors ; the foliage
has suffered less during the past winter than that
of the other sorts which he grows.

Anemone narcissiflora. — This beautiful spe"
cies is quite rare in gardens, and we were agree-
ably surprised to meet with it again flowering
finely in Mr. Ware's nursery at Tottenham. It is
a most distinct Anemone, producing its flowers
in a truss at the top of an erect stalk 6 inches to
!) inches in length. The flowers individually are
large, pure white, with a tuft of yellow anthers in
the centre.

Menyanth.es trifoliata (the Bog Bean). — At
the Tottenham nursery many aquatic plants are
grown by adopting the simple expedient of bury-
ing half a cask, and the old Bog Bean is floweiing
well under this treatment. Although a native
plant it is pretty enough to have in the garden,
sending up its tall flower-spikes in advance of the
leaves, the rose-tinted buds opening into pure
white flowers.

Strawberry Leader. — At the meeting of the
Royal Horticultural Society on Tuesday another
new Strawberry made its appearance, the second
this season. The fruits in many cases turned the
scale at 1J ozs. This has a great deal of the old
Pine flavour, so much wanting in many new va-
rieties. This is the variety I noted last year as
likely to make its way. It found many admirers
on Tuesday and was thought to be a grand acqui-
sition.— G. Wvthes.

Cerasus pseudo-ceratus is one of the most
noteworthy flowering trees of the present week.
This species has a most distinct habit, quite
different from that of the double forms of our
native Cherries. It is practically an immense bush
having no regular central stem, but long, rigid,
ascending branches, bearing little side spurs now
wreathed in flowers their full length. The flowers
are eemi double and white suffused with rosy
pink. This Cherry was figured in The Garden of
September 20, 1890.

Atragene alpina. — Among the climbing
plants that flower in spring there are none more
beautiful than this, and yet it is most uncommon.
A graceful trailer and not over rampant in growth,
it is suitable for low walls or fences about the
garden. We have grown it on a low wall for
years, and every spring it flowers with freedom.
The past winter has not injured it in the least,
and the flowers are now expanding in graceful
wreaths and clusters of purple-blue. We saw a
large batch of this Atragene at Mr. Ware's re-
cently, and many of the plants less than 1 foot in
height had several flowers, so that it blooms even
in a young state. For a long time it was difficult
to obtain this plant at all from English nurseries,
but doubtless the coloured plate of it that was
published in The Garden of October 6, 1894, has
drawn more attention to its beauty.

Hardy Cypripediums. — Some well-grown,
free-flowering specimens of these, in broad, shallow
pans, that were shown in Mr. Ware's group at
the Drill Hall attracted some notice. C. Cal-
ceolus (our English Lady's Slipper, but almost ex-
tinct as a wild plant) was in fine flower, its rich
yellow lip conspicuous, owing to the peculiar
brown shade of the sepals and petals, whilst it
has a sweet scent. C. pubescens, also good, is an
American kind, somewhat resembling the pie-
ceding and quite easy to grow in a damp, shaded
spot with peaty or leafy soil. C. occidental (ormon-
tanum, as it was labelled) is a Californian species
of charming beauty. It has two or three flowers
on a leafy stem, 1 foot in height. The sepals and
petals are prettily twisted, of a brownish purple
colour, whilst the neat-shaped pouch is white,

352

THE GARDEN

[May 18, 1895.

suffused with a faint pink shade and striped with
pale red inside. It has proved quite hardy at
Tottenham.

Late Tulips for cutting.— When at Syon
House a few days since I saw in Mr. Wythes's
houso a handsome bowl filled mainly with the
blooms of late Tulips. Associated with them were
Lilac and one or two other flowers and some appro-
priate foliage, and the effect was delightful. The
Tulips had been cut with long stems and when
about three parts expanded, and they last fresh
for a much longer time than is generally supposed.
Gesner's rich crimson was among them, also several
striking varieties of the Parrot group and the
following, which deserve a place in every garden :
Dame Elegante, white to pale sulphur, bordered
with red, in the form of a feathering; Ida, or
Bouton d'Or, clear deep golden yellow, a beau-
tiful self of the finest form ; and Picotee, white,
with a fine beading of soft rose on the petal mar-
gins, as regular as in the case of a rose-edged
Picotee. Three handsomer or more attractive
garden varieties it would be difficult to name.
Mr. Wythes plants masses of them on his hardy
flower border, and also as a front line, where they
are very effective. — R. 1).

Some good garden Tulips.— Although we
may question the wisdom of creating another
name for what are really forms of the good old
Gesner's Tulip, there can be no doubt as to their
worth as garden flowers. The breeder Tulips in
their self colours are lovely, but just as we have
grown familiar with certain kinds we like, they
break into odd bizarre mixtures of colour, and
their garden value diminishes. The merit of
these erroneously named Darwin Tulip3 is that
they maintain their self colour for a more indefi-
nite period, and thus for the future we can have
tall late Tulips in the garden in many bright
effective shades, all of the same stately character
and bold beauty as the parent. Some fine kinds
shown on Tuesday by Messrs. Barr are Gipsy
Queen, dark maroon-purple : Purple King, also
purple ; The Sultan, darker than the preceding ;
Rouge Eclatante, bright red, with yellow base ;
Queen of Brilliants, carmine-red with white base ;
Salmon King, soft light red; Scarlet Beauty,
very bright ; and Loveliness, all that the name
suggests, clear bright rose in colour. If there is
no self Tulip to surpass T. Gesneriana in its best
form, we have at least in these varieties fit asso-
ciates for it capable of giving much colour to the
garden in May, and most welcome when the
Daffodils are fading.

Notes from Chester. —After so severe a
winter was there ever so lovely a spring ? The
profusion of spring bloom and the delicacy of the
early foliage we never remember to have seen sur-
passed. The early-flowering trees and shrubs are
very fine. We send you a box of blooms from
representatives of but two botanical orders, which
may fairly typify the glory of gold and silver and
the prettiness of pink and white with the inter-
mingling green about us in the spring garden.
Cytisus schipkamsis is one of the most delicate
and striking of the legumes in flower just now.
Its terminal flowers of pure white, surrounded
with delicate foliage like an involucre, are admir-
able for cutting. It is perfectly hardy. C. austria-
cus.with its dense inflorescence gracefully arranged
along the shapely flowering stems, and its com-
pact foliage placed on short pedicels, is very tell-
ing, and either in bush form or as standards
makes an effective show. C. purpureus incarna-
tus is a splendid contrast in colour. The purple
flowers tinged with red are showy in broad masses,
whilst the individual sprays are remarkably grace-
ful and telling. The Genistas are all full of showy
colour. We send two. Genista precox is, as you
will see, simply a golden shower. The effect of a
mass of bloomstandingout upon alawn or within the
shrubbery can hardly be described. G. prostrata
has all the floral beauty of the Broom. The
chief interest and value of G. prostrata lie in its
remarkable prostrate habit, making it invaluable
for certain situations for rockwork and the alpine
garden. Caragana pendula is a never-failing

source of delight to the garden lover. Some of
the standards here are simply laden with trails of
gold and green, and there is no more conspicuous
feature in the shrubbery edging the lawn. Prunus
sinensis alba plena, with its snowy covering, is
delicate and effective. As a pyramid or a standard
it is equally desirable, and makes a pretty show.
Pyrus malus in varying forms is lovely. The
tinge of pink sets off the delicate beauty of the
ground colour of the petals, and the slender and
refined form of the buds and blossoms is charm-
ing. The Daffodils here have been remarkably
fine from Easter onwards. — Dichsons, Nurseries,
Chester.

Plbl'c Gardens.

Chrysanthemums in the Temple Gardens.

— It has been decided by the Temple authorities
to discontinue for the future the annual exhibi-
tion of Chrysanthemums, which has now for a
number of years formed a regular autumnal attrac-
tion in the Temple grounds facing the Thames
Embankment.

Opening of a new park at Willesden.— On

Saturday afternoon Roundwood Park, Willesden,
was declared open to the public by Mr. Littler,
Q.C., chairman of the Middlesex Sessions and of
the Middlesex County Council. Mr. Pinkham,
chairman of the district council committee, gave
a brief outline of the preparations that have been
made by the council. Twentv-six and a half acres
of land, forming a conical hill overlooking Dollis
Hill, Wembley Park and Tower, and all the pub-
lic buildings of Willesden. were offered to the
old local board for £15;000, but they declined
to spend more than £14,000. One of the proprie-
tors gave £500 ; the other £500 was raised by
public subscription, and the ground was bought.
Fourteen thousand five hundred trees and shrubs
have been planted, and £9000 has been spent in
laying it out, the drainage being especially diffi-
cult and costly.

Obituary.

Death of Mr. Thomas Hogg. — By the death
on Monday last at Berwick, at the age of 73, of
Mr. Thomas Hogg, senior partner of the old-esta-
blished Border seed firm of Hogg and Wood, Cold-
stream, the nursery trade of Scotland loses one of
its most prominent figures. Along with Mr. Jas.
Robertson, of Malahide, he founded and carried
on the business so well known in Dublin under the
style of Hogg and Robertson. He was also a di-
rector of Lawes Chemical Manure Company, Ltd.

The late Mr. John Walker.— To the brief
obituary notice of Mr. J. Walker on p. 334 I ven-
ture to add the fact that at the age of fourteen
years he came to Thame, and entered the service
of his uncle, who was a grocer. While following
this occupation his love for flowers led him to cul-
tivate some of the pets of the florist in those days,
and having made a reputation as a grower and an
exhibitor, he in 1846, while remaining in the
grocery trade, also established himself at Thame
as a florist, commencing with about twenty poles
of ground and a two-light frame. So successful
was the venture, that in course of time it grew to
thirty acres, a good quantity of glass, and two
seed shops. The principal home nursery was
known as the Lashlake Gardens, and here in a
spacious lean-to house he grew some of the finest
and richest coloured Marochal Niel Roses, which
found their way into the London markets.
Originally a Tulip grower and exhibitor in the
days when the flower was somewhat extensively
grown in the south, he still kept a collection, and
a year ago brought to one of the meetings of the
Royal Horticultural Society some very fine
flowers, the flamed bizarres being particularly
attractive. He put several new Peas into com-
merce, one of the most useful being that fine late
variety Walker's Perpetual Bearer. It was he

who originated the Sugar-loaf Bath Cos Lettuce,
the Exhibition Onion, &c. , and he was famous for
his very fine strain of quilled Asters, of which ho
raised several very fine varieties, and Sweet
Williams. He was a most succes-ful cultivator
and exhibitor of Dahlias, and his white self John
Walker is probably the best white Dahlia in culti-
vation. About forty five years ago he with others
originated the Thame Horticultural Society, of
which he remained one of the hon. secretaries till
his death. The business will be carried on by his
son, Mr. Stephen Walker.— R. Dean.

Royal Horticultural Society.— We have
been asked to state that the usual committees —
fruit, floral and Orchid — will meet at the Temple
Gardens at 11 o'clock on Tueslay, May 21, and
that certificates and awards of merit will be given
to new and rare plants if worthy. The official list
of such awards will be issued from the secretary's
tent on Wednesday, May 22.

The weather in "West Herts. — Another
unseasonably warm week and the fourth in suc-
cession. On six days this month the temperature
in shade has risen above 70°, and on three of these
above 74° ; whereas the average maximum for
May is only about 60°. The highest reading as
yet recorded this year was 77c on the 13th. The
preceding night was also warm, the exposed
thermometer never falling lower than 49°. Rain
is now much wanted in the garden, less than a
tenth of an inch having fallen during the last
nineteen days, while no measurable quantity of
rain water has come through the 2J feet of soil in
either of the percolation gauges for eleven days.
The atmosphere has again been very dry ; indeed,
the average difference at three o'clock in the
afternoon between the reading of an ordinary
thermometer and one with its bulb kept con-
stantly wet was as much as 14° for the week end-
ing the 12th inst. Since the beginning of the
month the sun has shone brightly for ten or more
hours on ten days, and on four of these for over
thirteen hours. A Lilac came first into flower in
my garden on the 8th, which is two days earlier
than the average for the same tree in the previous
nine years, but eighteen days later than last year.
The only Rose which has yet flowered is Rosa
pyrenaica, which was out on the 13th inst. —
E. M., Berkham&led.

Book en British seaweeds. — "Manual of
the British Marine Alga','' by Professor Harvey
(Van Voorst). Many plant-like animals are com-
monly, but wrongly, called seaweeds ; for which
get Landsborough's "Popular History of British
Zoophytes" (Reeves and Co). Much interesting
information on both these subjects will be found
in "Common Things of the Sea Coa't," by Anne
Pratt (Society for Promoting Cbri.-tian Know-
ledge); "Glaucus, or the Wonders of the Shore,"
by Charles Kingsley (Macmillan); "Sea -side
Walks of a Naturalist," by Houghton (Groom-
bridge); "The Aquarium, or Unveiling of the
Wonders of the Deep Sea," by Gosse; "The Sea-
side Book," by Professor Harvey; "A Naturalist's
Rambles on the Devonshire Coast," by Gosse;
"A Handbook to the Marine Aquarium, " by
Gosse; "Tenby, a Sea-side Holiday," by Gosse
(the last five works published by Van Voorst). —
W. T. B , Bishopsteignton.

Names of plants. — W. Butt. — 1, Staphylea

colcliica ; 2, Raphiolepis ovata. Oakenhead and Cu.

— 1 and -, impossible to Dame from such scraps ; 3,

looks like a Lupin : send when in flower. O. B.

Anderson. — Epimedium pinnatum. 8. N. T. — 1,

Dicentra eximia ; 2, Spiraea Thunbergi fl.-pl. ; 3,
Meconopsis cambrica ; 4, AsperuU odorata ; 5, Ane-
mone sylvestris; 6, Euphorbia tatliyris. J.M. S. P.

— Fritillaria pudica. Geo. Goldsmith. — 1 and 3,

Fritillaria recurva; 2 and 4, too far gone to deter-

Tlie Wild Garden: or, the Naturalisation and Natuiol
Grouping of Hardy Exotic Plants, u»th a chapter en the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, with vood engraxincs
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged. lemy
8vo, linen cloth. Price lis. ; well bound in half morocco, 18f.
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEN

353

No. 1227. 8ATURDAY, May'k25, 1895. Vol. XLVII.

" This is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change It rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — 8hakespeare.

Orchids

CYPRIPBDIUM BELLATULUM.

Although a much better grower than some of
the nearly-related kinds, this pretty species is
not always satisfactory, and what is more re-
markable is that in some places where appa-
rently no particular trouble is taken in its cul-
tivation it grows vigorously, while other ex-
perienced and assiduous cultivators do not
make much of it. I have never been able to
grow this species in peat and Sphagnum alone,
but have been successful with it in a mixture
of light fibrous, not sandy loam, chopped
Sphagnum, charcoal, and finely broken crocks.
Nodules of limestone I usually mix with the
compost, but it is rather suggestive that the
best plants I ever had were grown without it,
so that perhaps there is not so much virtue in
the limestone — other than as an aerating agent
— as has been claimed for it. I would not
advise anyone who had been successful with
this material to discontinue its use, but I do
not think it is by any means a panacea for all
the ills that C. bellatulum and its allies are
heir to. This Orchid is very susceptible to
checks from fluctuations in the atmosphere, a
constant and regular temperature being neces-
sary to its well-being. A strong heat is also
essential, and the plants must be screened from
bright sunshine. The supply of moisture must
be ample both at the roots and in the atmo-
sphere, but no water must be given over the
foliage, nor must it be allowed to collect about
the base of the plants. This danger is obviated
by elevating the plants a little, keeping the
centre of the compost higher than the sides,
and in the case of newly-imported plants this
must always be practised.

C. bellatulum is a native of islands in the
China Sea, and was introduced in 1888. On
strong plants the leaves are from 8 inches to 10
inches in length, dark green, with a glossy-look-
ing upper surface most beautifully tessellated,
the reverse purplish red. The scapes are fre-
quently twin-flowered, the blossoms being up-
wards of 3 inches across, usually white in
ground [colour, irregularly spotted with blackish
purple. This flowers at various seasons, but
usually during the spring and early summer.
Another pretty species belonging to this sec-
tion is

C. concolor, a smaller growing, but charming
kind, requiring somewhat similar treatment.
The blooms are produced on one or two-flowered
scapes towards the end of the summer. The
sepals and petals are concave, the lip small, the
entire flower yellow with bright red spots. The
leaves, each about 4 inches in length, are green
and prettily variegated, the under surface purple.
This was introduced in IS64 from Moulmein.

C. Godefroy.e is another pleasing kind, which
'. grows about G inches high, the leaves being of
varying shades of light and dark green on the
upper surface, bronzy purple beneath. The
flowers, borne on short stems, usually singly,
sometimes in pairs, are white, with small dots of
purple on the labellum and larger spots on the
sepals and petals. It flowers in summer, and is a
native of New Guinea and adjacent islands. In-
troduced in 18S3. Another delightful species of
this set is

C. niveum, a dwarf-growing, free-flowering
Orchid, a native of islands about the Malay
Peninsula. The blossoms are pure white with

the exception of a few indistinct dots of red ; the
leaves are dull green, with a deep purple reverse.
It flowers in May and June, and sometimes pro-
duces twin-flowered scapes.

All the above deserve a place in the most
limited collections, as they are distinct and
beautiful kinds. Some very fine hybrids have
been raised from among them, and no doubt
many more will be heard of as the seedlings
come into bloom. R.

CATTLEYA MENDELI.

This fine Cattleya belongs to the labiata group,
and is a decided acquisition to that section,
having flowers of large size and very brilliant
in colour. These are produced during the
months of April, May and June. In this
group of Cattleyas, which also includes such
species as C. Trianse, C. Mossise, C. Percival-
iana, C. gigas, &c, are to be found the finest
in the genus, and there is no season in the year
in which one at least of the different kinds is
not to be seen in bloom. The species here
referred to was introduced by Messrs. Hugh
Low and Co., of Clapton, about fifteen years
ago from the Cordillera of New Grenada, where
it is often found growing in very exposed situa-
tions upon bare rocks. It was named in honour
of the late Mr. Sam Mendel, of Manchester, at
that time a very enthusiastic Orchid grower,
and I believe it flowered for the first time in
this country with Mr. Day, of Tottenham.
Cattleya Mendeli has short clavate pseudo-
bulbs, which each support a solitary deep green
leaf. The flowers are produced on growths or
bulbs that have been formed the preceding
season, before the usual period of rest. In this
respect it resembles C. Trianiu and C. Mossiat.
Such kinds as C. gigas and C. Dowiaua flower
from bulbs which have been formed during
the current season. These blooms vary in
colour, ranging from pure white to quite a
deep shade, the rich purple and yellow of
the lip being a very characteristic feature.
The culture of this Cattleya is similar to that
of all others belonging to the labiata group.
It should be grown in a temperature of abSut
00° during the winter months, allowing it to
fall about 5° less in the night, which as the
season advances may be allowed to rise grada-
ally until about 70° are reached in the summer.
A thin shading will be found necessary during
very hot sunny weather, but the plants should
be placed so that they can receive as much light
as possible. Care should be taken not to over-
pot these plants, and water should at all times
be given with care. A good typical form of Cat-
tleya Mendeli may be described as having flowers
from G inches to 8 inches across, the sepals and
petals white or delicately tinted with rose, the
latter much broader than the former. The lip
is very large, beautifully frilled at the margins,
and of a rich purplish crimson, with a large yel-
low disc. Shortly after its first introduction it
was also imported by Messrs. Backhouse and
Sons, of York, and since by various other firms.
Many fine and distinct varieties have appeared,
these being distinguished by the colour of the
flowers, and all decidedly worth a place in every
collection.

C. Mendeli Bella. — This is a very pretty kind,
the sepals and petals pale lilac, the lip having a
rosy mauve shade. It is a distinct and scarce
variety, and was well represented in the collec-
tion of the late Mr. George Hardy, of Timperley.

C. M. Blunti is the albino of this species, and
must be classed amongst the finest of all white
Orchids. The flowers are of the purest white
throughout, excepting a very small blotch of yel-
low on the disc of the lip. It 6till remains an ex-

ceedingly rare and valuable plant. It is named
after the collector who discovered it several years
ago, and sent it to Messrs. Low and Co.

C. M. grandiflora, as the name implies, is a
very large-flowered variety, and at the same time
has also very richly coloured blooms. The sepals
and petals are white, very broad, and of fine sub-
stance ; the Up large, deep rosy magenta,
the yellow throat veined with rosy lines and the
margin heavily frilled, where it is also margined
with white.

C. M. Jamesiana is another very distinct and
richly coloured form, having the sepals and petals
deeply shaded with rose, the latter distinctly
blotched at the apex with a richer hue ; the lip is
bright amethyst-purple, the yellow portion very
deep golden, Veined with purplish lines. Another
very beautiful variety is

C. M. Morgani.k, which is sometimes known
under the name of Cattleya Morgani:e, but it is not
distinct enough to bear a specific name, although
as a variety it is one of the best. The flowers are
of fine form and size, of the purest white, with a
bright blotch of magenta near the apex of the lip,
and a few radiating lines in the yellow throat.
There appear occasionally some kinds which are
decidedly worthy of varietal names, and amongst
these must be mentioned two very distinct forms,
which were recently shown at the Royal Horti-
cultural exhibition io the Drill Hall. One is

C. M. leucoglossa, a very distinct and chaste
form, having delicately flushed sepals and petals,
the large frilled lip pure white, veined with yellow
in the throat. This is, no doubt, the nearest ap-
proach to C. Blunti above mentioned. This ap-
peared in the collection of Mr. T. Statter, of
Manchester. The other one shown at the same
meeting was sent from the Rosefield collection at
Sevenoaks and was named

C. M. Princess of Wales, a very charming
and distinct form, the sepals and petals shaded
with rosy pink, the well-formed lip having a very
brilliant blotch of purplish crimson and golden
yellow in the throat. Wit Hugh Gower.

CLEANING ORCHIDS.
Although to the uninitiated the present may
seem a peculiar time to be treating of clean-
ing Orchids, more experienced growers know
full well the importance of giving the young
growth a good start by ridding it of insect
pests now, when these are coming from their
winter quarters and instinctively finding the
young growing shoots. In the East India house
it is surprising how quickly the small white or
brown scale spreads over the leaves of the dis-
tichous-leaved Orchids, and no better time can be
found for clearing them than when they are
young, their hold on the plants becoming more
tenacious as the season advances. In consequence
of this more force has to be used to remove them
and the foliage is often bruised or punctured.
At this time of year it is not advisable to use
insecticides to any extent, frequent spongings
with clear, tepid rain-water being quite as
effective and less dangerous. When the insects
are down between the axils of the leaves and the
stem it is difficult to reach them with the sponge
alone, and a small-pointed stick with a piece of
chamois leather tied firmly to the top is often very
useful, care being taken that the point of the
stick does not protrude. A small black scale with
a white lining often attacks Cypripediums of the
barbatum and venustum types and is often seen
in conjunction with red spider. Fumigations lessen
their numbers considerably, and are always ad-
visable if the insects are plentiful, carefully
sponging afterwards. White scale on Cattleyas
must now be looked for, as the young foliage, if
once overrun with this insect, will always show
the spots. It is frequently found clustering
around the base of the pseudo-bulbs, about the
rhizomes and dormant eyes, and should be rubbed
off carefully with a pointed stick or stubby brush,
the plants being afterwards forcibly syringed
with tepid water. A soft, woolly insect of the
Coccos tribe— somewhat resembling mealy bug

354

THE GARDEN

[May 25, 1895.

but even more fecund — is very partial to cool
house Orchids ; and this, too, must be kept under,
or the health of the plants will suffer. In examin-
ing the plants for insects a hasty look through the
houses is not sufficient. Each plant must be
taken and the undersides of the leaves carefully
examined, for this is where the insects are chiefly
found. In all cases where it may be found neces-
sary to fumigate, this should be done lightly on
two consecutive nights, as greatly preferable to
one strong dose, and the syringe must be freely
plied among the plants the next morning, air
being given earlier than usual and the blinds let
down before the sun reaches the house. This
must not be undertaken unless necessary, green
fly on the flower- spikes being usually got rid of by
passing a damp sponge over them daily. H. R.

Phalaenopais sumatraoa.— This very in-
teresting species of the Moth Orchid usually pro-
duces its flowers during the months of May and
June. It has always remained a rare plant,
although introduced about 1864. The blooms,
carried upon an arching spike — usually from six
to nine upon a raceme — individually measure about
2 inches in diameter. These are not so showy as
many in this beautiful genus, the sepals and
petals being somewhat narrow, of a creamy white
colour, whilst the lip is also of a creamy white,
with a few purple lines on the front and a few
orange spots on the side lobes. — W. H. G.

Vanda parviflora. — This very remarkable
plant is generally known under cultivation as
Aerides Wightianum. In growth it much re-
sembles V. Amesiana, although the leaves
are thicker and very fleshy. It is widely
spread over a large portion of India and Cey-
lon, and has been imported on many occasions
with other Indian and Burmese Orchids. It
was introduced into our gardens about 1844, and
was then named by Dr. Lindley as above. It
has, however, various other names, such as the
one just mentioned, which was also given it by
the same authority as was Aerides testaceum,
whilst Professor Reichenbach in 1877 named it
Vanda testacea. The raceme is erect and many-
flowered, the sepals and petals spreading, of a
brownish yellow colour; the lip is three-lobed,
the middle lobe large and spreading, white, stained
and spotted with purplish mauve, and with raised
lamella? on the disc, the spur being of medium
size. It requires strong heat to grow it under
cultivation, as do most of the Orchids coming
from this part of the globe, with plenty of mois-
ture in the atmosphere. — W. H. G.

Dendrobium thyrsiflorum.— Among recent
importations of this species a great deal of variation
exists in the flowers both in shape and colour.
The typical form has the sepals and petals clouded
white, the lip yellow of varying tints. Prom a
small consignment of this Orchid received two
years ago there are now several varieties in flower ;
one has very loose racemes, the blossoms being
individually very large, the sepals and petals
suffused with rose, the lip bright orange. Another
pretty variety has the petals distinctly crimped on
the edges, the colour being of the purest snow-
white, and there are one or two others more or less
distinct from the type. There are few more use-
ful Orchids than Dendrobiums, and none more
ornamental than D. thyrsiflorum and the closely
related D. densiflorum. Their culture is of the
simplest description, and they thrive in an ordin-
ary plant stove if care is taken to give them the
proper resting and growing seasons. If there is
not proper convenience for ripening the pseudo-
bulbs, the plants may be taken out of doors when
the growth is complete in August, and a month
in the open air is of the greatest benefit to them,
the slight cheek serving to make them flower
more freely. During winter the temperature may
be kept at from 45° to 50°, allowing just sufficient
water to keep the pseudo-bulbs plump. The best
season for repotting is directly the flowers are
past, watering carefully until new roots are being
emitted. The pots used should be large enough to
accommodate the plants for three or four years,
as they dislike frequent disturbance.— R.

Notes of the Week.

Dracaena Godseffiana, shown by Messrs.
Sander at the Temple, and also certificated, is a
striking kind, prettily variegated, but roally
more like a Bamboo, especially in its new growths,
which are pointed, and enveloped in leaf sheaths
like the canes of an Arundinaria. The leaves are
oval, broad, about 2 inches in length, of a dark
green colour, beautifully blotched and spotted
with pale yellow.

Incarvillea Delavayi. — This new hardy
plant from China was shown with fine flowers by
Sir Trevor Lawrence at the Temple, and a first-
class certificate was granted. It has long pin-
nate leaves and flowers borne on stout, erect
stalks 9 inches high, there being from three to
five flowers and buds on a stalk of the plants
shown. The flower in shape resembles that of a
Martynia, but the lobed petals are large and
smooth, of a bright rose colour, the throat pale
yellow.

Clematis coccinea hybrids.— Six fine distinct
kinds of these were shown at the Temple by
Messrs. Jackman and Son. This new race will
be useful in gardening, as the varieties all have
the hardiness and long-flowering character of the
parent they most resemble, namely, C. coccinea.
Duchess of York, which received an award of merit,
has a lovely pale blush flower, deeper tinted
down the centre of the petals. Other good new
kinds were Sir Trevor Lawrence, deep crimson ;
Duchess of Albany, lilac-rose ; Grace Darling, deep
rosy carmine, and Crimson Beauty.

Calochorti. — Even lovers of flowers know
little of this quaint and charming family, but Dr.
Wallace, of Colchester, is extending their popu-
larity, and his exhibit at the Temple show, though
small, as the season is yet early for these flowers,
attracted many visitors. C. Benthami was much
admired with its clear canary-yellow flowers
covered with hairs inside, each petal having a
dark purple blotch at its base. C. lilacinus, light
purple, with large flowers ; C. cceruleus elegans,
pure white, the hairs of a purple tint ; and C.
eollinus, having large flowers widely expanded, of
a clear lilac shade, were all shown well.

Good market Pelargoniums. — The zonal
Pelargoniums are largely grown by Messrs.
Hawkins and Bennett, of Twickenham, who,
like other growers of special flowers for market,
rely upon few kinds, but grow these in enormous
quantity. Of double red-flowered zonals the best
for market work is F. V. Raspail, but a new kind
not yet in the trade that Messrs. Hawkins and
Bennett are growing will eventually prove a
strong rival to the above-named kind. Its name
is Duke of Fife, the colour bright crimson, the
flowers individually very large in a bold truss
borne on a long stout stalk, whilst its growth is
all that can be desired. A free, neat-flowering,
dwarf-growing double white variety that finds
favour is Silver Queen. In single red flowered
varieties some of our old favourites still hold a
high position, Henry Jacoby, West Brighton
Gem, and John Gibbons being very popular,
whilst Ferdinand de Lesseps, rich crimson, is
found equally good. Lady Chesterfield was fine,
with large trusses and flowers of a lovely salmon
colour. In pink nothing is better than Constance,
and there is a great demand for flowers of this
variety this year. Niphetos is well named, as
there is nothing in white single kinds to beat it
for freedom and purity of colour.

Notes from Baden-Baden.— Some time ago
Fritillaria Thomsoniana was nicely in flower. It
has all the appearance of F. macrophylla, but
does not seem to be identical with this ; it is a
much stronger plant, carrying on a thick stalk 3
feet high as many as 32 of its pink flowers. Iris
mesopotamica is new; it resembles I. sindjarensis,
but the flowers are pure white. I. vaga, which is
different from I. Leichtlini, is very showy ; it is
very robust, 2 feet high, and the flowers have

shades of nut-brown, blue and rose. I. bosniaca
with its pure yellow large flowers is one of the
earliest and has much improved under cultivation.
Just now I. bracteata and macrosiphon from the
Pacific coast of United States are in great beauty,
some strong plants carrying as many as twenty
flowers open at once ; they open of an ochraceous
yellow colour with a maroon network and become
white, the network changing to rose ; they are
very striking indeed. In quiet beauty with an
aristocratic air stands I. cashmeriana with its
large highly perfumed flowers. On the rockwork
Onoema albo-roseum var. macrocarpum shows its
large drooping bells from white to cherry-red and
crimson. What a pretty flower Habranthus
andicola is ! Outside and half of inside not violet,
but brilliant magenta-red, having inside a yellow
ring and a black throat. It is a charming flower
and the bulbs may prove even hardier than those
of H. fulgens. — Max Leichtlin.

Heuchera sanguinea. — This is one of the
best hardy introductions of recent years, the
colour of the flower being disiinct and rare in
gardens, a pure red, without any suspicion of a
taint either of blue or yellow. I think Mr. Smith,
of Newry, was the first to add one of the inevit-
able nursery epithets to the plant — splendens, if I
recollect right — and one of his plants which I had
was certainly deeper in colour than the introduced
type, but seedlings vary much in colour, and I
have some which are nearly white ; not that a
white H. sanguinea would be desirable, but it
shows how the colour may be varied by judicious
selection. The plant in warm summers ripens
seed freely, and occasionally I find them self-sown.
The seedlings require patience, being slow of
growth, but they want very little attention, and
until they have flowered are decidedly hardier
than old plants. The species, being Californian,
dislikes the cold damp alternating with frost of
an English winter, especially in the stiff clay of
Cheshire, and does best in a light, well-drained
soil. Many gardeners complain that it is a shy
flowerer, but where shelter from cold blasts and
suitable soil are given it flowers very freely indeed
in my garden, and never more freely than now.
I must add that old plants in exposed situations
are nearly destroyed, but masses of seedlings by
their side are unharmed. In conclusion, this is a
plant which requires frequent renewal, whether
from seed or cuttings. — C. Wolley-Dod, Edge
Hall, Malpas.

Shrubs in Kent. — I was glad to see some re-
ports of the result of the winter in The Garden
last week. It would be interesting to have them
if possible from all parts of the country. I pre-
sume we should find that the usually most favoured
counties have suffered most severely. Here in the
weald of Kent, about 300 feet above the sea, we
have not very much to complain of, with the
exception of the Cistuses, which are all dead.
Though many things are injured, we have lost
little. Escallonia macrantha and E. Phillipiana on
walls are cut hard back and the former in the beds
cut to the ground. Abutilon vitifolium, Berberis
Darwini, Pernett3'as and a shrubby St. John's
Wort (which makes a shrub 4 feet high) are cut to
the ground, but are shooting up from the bottom.
The same may be said of the Gorse and Broom,
both common and the varieties. Many deciduous
shrubs — Judas Tree, Leycesteria, Rhus Cotinus,
Bladder Sennas, &c. — have lost a foot or two
all over, but are starting well. Choisya ternata on
walls is not touched ; in the beds it has lost its
leaves, but is breaking all over. On the house,
Roses Lamarque, Fortune's Yellow and Waltham
Climber are cut down, but seem likely to recover.
Some Laurels moved in the autumn are cut hard,
but are breaking all over the stems. A few Rhodo-
dendron ponticum in a very exposed windy corner
are a good deal browned, but as they seed and
grow like weeds in the woods here, it does not
much matter. Last, but not least, a Chamarops
excelsa which has had no protection for two years
f-hows no sign of frost, and Camellias on the walls
of the house are untouched ; some small ones i
the beds have lost their leaves. Altogether,
think we may congratulate ourselves. — Medwav.

Mat 25, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

355

OF SOME OLD GAEDENS AND

THEIR FLOWERS.

Our chances of studying the best features of
old gardens are very much lessened owing to
the changes that took place a generation or
two ago, when the taste for the newly-found
effects of ribbon gardening led to many
changes of plan and to the destruction of old
parterres and flower garden". But, so far as
we know them now, it may be safely said that
their charms are in nearly all cases greatest
where they are disposed more with regard to
the ground itself and the house than where
the ground has to conform to any fixed idea
as to style. We see evidence of this at

Powis, Ightham, Naworth, Btrkeley, Cote-
hele, Knole, Penshurst, and other places.
Every old garden is not excellent in plan, as
the most simple means of improvement
are often neglected in such places, but gener-
ally they illustrate the point insisted on, that
the happiest results are got where the ground
itself is thought of first and most. This is
nowhere more clear than in a few place-t
where a very modern garden has been made
near an old house, but where some of the old
gardens remain. For instance, the modern
flower garden at Drayton is distinctly less
charming than the older parts of that beauti-
ful garden.

About these fine old houses the opportuni-
ties for flower gardening are the best in the

world, the walls afford such admirable back- ! only artistic ones ; the way may vary much
grounds for flowers of the right sort. There ! according to soil or climate, but beautiful
is no house takes a better colour than the old | results near a house can only be got through
English house ; none so precious for a back- more enduring planting than is now the rule,
ground. How very different the stucco or It should not require much to prove that in
hard brick or other house new or old ; with every way a bed or group of such a Rose as
these the common style of carpet gardening may Bouquet d'Or, with its free and handsome
not seem so incongruous. It is when we come shoots, would be far more delightful nea an
to see it displayed before a beautiful old house old house than any plant of summer growth
that its hollow pretensions are almost pain- only, and yet we see it stated now and then
f.illy evident. For of what value are silver- that once a pirterre (of the ordinary sort),
lichened walls 300 years old or more to us if always a parterre, and that we must not v en-
there be but a few lines or masses of Lobelia ture on any free and lasting planting near the
and such trivialities in front of them ? From house.

such things, no matter how disposed, we , It is, however, one of the most puerile
get what artists term " hnrdness " ond showy , of errors; there is no good reason why we

should not return to as
lasting ways of plant-
ing as ever the old
gardeners employed.
On the contrary, there
are reasons why we
should do much more
of it, because we have
a greater choice of
beautiful evergreens
and long-lived plants
of various sorts which
have also the precious
qualities of beautiful
bloom, as in, say, the
case of the climbing
Tea Rose, the choicest
hardy Rhododendrons,
and such evergreens
:is AndTomedajaponica
hikI Kalmia latifolia.
Large flower gardens
of all kinds would lie
greatly the better of
being broken up with
groups or masses of

such things, which

among their other

merits would enhance
the value of the flower
masses

And going to larger
things still, why should
they be excluded from
the flower garden where
there is room for them?
I remember at Knole
years ago seeing a beau-
colours. But showy colour is not always tiful group of the Swamp Magnolia(M. glauca)

Haddon Hall. Engraved for TbE Gakden from a photograph sent by the late Mr. J. L. Robinson, C.E.

good colour either in pictures or in gar-
dens, and some of the most beautiful pictures
both in gardens and otherwise are where the
brilliance is in due relation to other things of
equal importance. Some of the most vivid pic-
tuies of the master landscape painters are got
by a modest amount of high coluur in its right
place, and so it should be in gardens.

But it is not the colour only we have to
think of in these old gardens, as we miss
beautiful and varied forms of stems and mass
of foliage when we use only the short-lived
summer flowers.

For all such houses and for all beau-
tiful houses permanent ways of planting
the beds are the best, and indeed the

in flower the like of which I have never seen
since. There is too much neglect of beautiful
flowering shrubs, and one cause of this is
their needless exclusion from the flower gar-
dens of the day.

If this be true of the beds and borders of the
garden, it is even more so of the walls. About
old houses they are more than ever precious
from their colour and material, and from a
flower garden point of view it is folly to
neglect them, and no care is too much to give
to select the noblest plants for them, in due
relation, of course, to climate and soil. Un-
fortunately, it has been too much the rule
with architects who make gardens to forbid
the planting of the walls —the s-rest way to

356

THE GARDEN

[Mat 25, 1895.

make a garden " hard " and without real
beauty. It was not the case in really old
English gardens of which the walls were well
sel with climbers. Now we have a much
larger choice of beautiful Avail plants, many
of them in our climate distinctly better for
the warmth and shelter of the wall, as is the
evergreen Magnolia on many an old house.
"Were it not for the trees of this planted on
the walls of old houses and old gardens, we
should not in our country ever see in flower
the noblest of evergreen flowering trees. The
double Pomegranate is another example of a
1 irilliant flowering shrub which may 1 le bloomed
well against warm walls, but which is far too
rarely planted thereon. The variety of aspect
round our large old houses like Drayton helps
also towards getting the best effects on such
walls, which indeed about some old houses
are a garden in themselves. Indeed, some
of our pleasantest souvenirs of gardens are of
wall plants as at Offington, where so many
ran- shrubs are on the walls, and in the College
Botanic Gardens at Dublin, where there are
such picturesque effects from the growth
of a great variety of plants which cover the
walls admirably, and at the same time are
never stiff, but garland them with charming
grace. W. K.

Flower Garden.

NARCISSUS CULTURE IN THE ISLES

OF SCILLY.

Ason a fine April evening one steams to the south-
westward from Land's End, and descries on the
horizon the little group of islands that lie in the
sunset, it is hard to persuade oneself that it
is from them that London and most of the pro-
vincial towns of England draw their chief sup-
plies of Narcissi during the winter. When,
however, the Lyonesse makes fast to the
wharf at Hugh Town, St. Mary's, and the piles
of white wooden flower-boxes are seen lying
there, tier upon tier, an idea of the magnitude
of the traffic forces itself upon the traveller, and
if he should stay to see the steamer discharged,
he will find that nine-tenths of the cargo con-
sists of empty boxes returned by flower-salesmen
from all parts of England. The industry, in
which almost every occupier of ground in the
Scilhes is now concerned, is the chief, one
might almost say the sole, trade of the islanders.
Conceived by Mr. Dorrien Smith, the proprietor
of the islands, and fostered by his judicious
care, it is now so firmly established that nothing
short of a reversal of the taste for cut flowers
during the dark days of the year on the part of
the town dwellers of the mainland is likely to
affect the prosperity of the Scillonians, for with
the mild and equable climate which the islands
enjoy, competition is practically out of the
question.

The one enemy that has to be contended
against is the wind, and to counteract its bale-
ful influence, lines of shelter in the form of
hedges, walls, palings and reed fences are to be
seen at distances of a few yards in the Nar-
cissus fields. In St. Mary's the hedges are
almost entirely composed of Euonymus, this
standing the winter well and providing a good
protection. On Tresco, on the other hand,
Escallonia macrantha takes the place of Euony-
mus as a shelter plant, and covered, as it is in

the late spring, with pink flowers, the guardian
hedges are themselves objects of beauty.

A walk round the island of St. Mary's in the
early morning soon illustrates the hold that
flower culture has upon the island. Carts are
driving to and from the quay, coming in with
full boxes and going out with the returned
empties. Here, one comes upon three boys
and a man picking N. poeticus ornatus in a small
enclosure. Already several large heaps of the
white blooms lie at the foot of the hedge, and,
while we wait, a young woman crosses the road,
fills a basket with flowers, and takes it to a lean-
to glasshouse that adjoins an unpretentious
granite-built cottage. Following her, we find
that the greenhouse shelves are already more
than half filled with thousands of cut Narcissi
in water. Continuing our walk, we see in
small fields lines of dark red Wallflower, which
men are busily gathering, bunching and placing
in hampers. A light-coloured patch in the
next enclosure turns out to be a colony of white
Stocks, and further on in a cottage garden, a
wide bed of Arums appears between masses of
Grand Monarque and poeticus ornatus, which
are now in full beauty; but Wallflowers, Stocks,
and Arums together do not occupy one-twen-
tieth part of the ground that is devoted to the
growth of Narcissi, and their culture may be
regarded as merely a tentative experiment.
On every side the waving blue-green leaves are
to be seen, bed after bed and field after field, of
Narcissi. Even beneath the very ramparts of
the disused battery they grow, sheltered by
rude palings of barrel staves from the wind and
the sea which they overhang. Though the
island is not covered with glass to the same
extent as Guernsey, many glasshouses have been
erected during the last few years, which serve
the double purpose of forcing the bulbs for
early flower and providing well-lighted packing
sheds. It is, however, not until the island of
Tresco is visited that the industry can be
studied in its highest development. Here, at
Mr. Dorrien Smith's flower farm, no outlay
that may lead to the commercial advancement
of the trade is spared. No innovation is too
unimportant to be tried and, if approved of,
adopted.

Ciose to the bulb fields are two blocks of
ridge-and-furrow glasshouses, each block con-
taining five houses, the total run of the ten
houses amounting to 15,000 feet. These are
heated by horizontal tubular boilers, and in
them during the winter thousands of boxes of
Narcissi are forcedxm temporary staging erected
over the hot-water pipes. As the boxes are
taken out in the spring they are placed in the
open and the bulbs ripened off, when they are
planted again and are ready for another forcing
in two years' time. As soon as the bulbs are
cleared out, the staging is taken down and the
houses are filled with Tomatoes, which aie
grown exclusively in pots and which, on April
10, were just commencing to colour. By the
time these have to be removed to make way
for the staging on the approach of winter ^a
good crop has been obtained, about 15 tons
having been cut during 1894. Close to the
glasshouses stands a large packing shed about
200 feet in length. In the interior, along the
front, the upper portion of which is glazed, runs
a wooden trellis supported on a shallow water
tank, and through the interstices of the trellis-
work the stems of the cut Narcissi are inserted,
thus enabling them to absorb sufficient moisture
to bear a long journey without flagging. Up
the centre of the shed a closed-in tank extends,
about 2 feet 6 inches high, with movable
boarded top in sections, containing about a foot
of water heated by pipes. In this baskets of

the earliest forced flowers are stood before fully
open, a slight syringing is given, the tank
closed, and when the top is removed the
blooms are expanded and ready for packing.
From the centre of the roof, or rather ceiling,
immediately above the tank alluded to, hangs
a wide shelf on which are placed 6-inch
holeless pots filled with water, and which
are utilised for holding the heavy trumpet sec-
tion of Narcissi, it having been found lhat
treated thus they are exempt from injury to
the trumpets which occasionally occurs when
they are inserted in the wooden trellis.

On one day during the week preceding Easter
this house contained 300,000 flowers, which were
bunched and packed in six hours by the experi-
enced staff, whose dexterity in handling the
blooms is the result of intelligent supervision
and constant practice. In the same week over
50 tons' weight of boxes of flowers was dis-
patched from the Isles of Scilly to the mainland.
The pickers carry with them india-rubber
rings. When as large a bunch as they can con-
veniently handle has been gathered, a ring is
slipped round the stems and the bunch is laid
down. These bunches are then collected, de-
posited in hampers, stem downwards, and driven
to the packing-shed, where the bands are re-
moved and the flowers placed in water. Before
packing they are tied in bunches of twelve, all
the flowers facing one way. The boxes, which
are made on the estate, are fastened down with
string alone, and not more than three boxes
made into one package.

The soil of Tresco seems admirably adapted
to the growth of Narcissi, the foliage of the
larger varieties, such as Emperor, Empress, and
Sir Watkin being extremely strong and healthy.
I found that some single bulbs of Emperor
which I examined had produced five flower-
stems. In view of the fact that the islands will
soon become exporters of bulbs in quantity, as
well as flowers, it might be well for English
growers to consider the advisability of procuring
supplies from this source instead of relying on
the imported Continental-grown bulbs. At the
time of my visit a bulb of Empress that had
been accidentally dropped at the foot of a hedge,
and which merely lay on the soil, had rooted
strongly and was carrying two fine flowers,
while some scales of poeticus ornatus that had
found their way into a heap of refuse soil had
developed into a fine clump.

Of the Polyanthus section, Gloriosus seems to
be the most amenable to forcing and pays well
when this system is resorted to, but, gathered
from the open, is inferior in value to Grand
Monarque and Soleil d'Or. Obvallaris is a use-
ful variety, and being the earliest Narcissus
proper and of a bright colour, brings in a good
price when forced. The season commences
with the Paper-white, which, however, is not in
particularly great request at the Scillies, as even
when unforced it comes in during December,
sometimes even in November, and up to Christ-
mas the Chrysanthemum has the call in the
market. The last Narcissus to flower is poeti-
cus plenus, which is marketed in May.

Emperor, Empress, Sir Watkin and Golden
Spur are among the varieties that are grown in
quantity, while Barri conspicuus is a coming
flower and bids fair to become popular, but it is
doubtful if it will ever become such a favourite
with the flower-loving public as the white-
petalled varieties of poeticus. In the experi-
mental garden by the old abbey a fine collection
of the rarer varieties is grown, amongst which
Duchess of Westminster, Catherine Spurrell,
Glory of Leyden, Madame de Graaf, Tortuosus,
Cernuus, Burbidgei, Robin Hood, Duchess of
Brabant, Macleayi, Santa Maria and Queen of

May 25, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

357

Spain were espscially worthy of notica. In the
rock garden, Narcissus Bulbocoiium sulphurous
and N. triandrus albus were flowering well.

I am unable to give any reliable data as to
the average prices realised by the different va-
rieties during the season, but the week after
Easter I was shown at St. Mary's a memorandum
that had just been received from a provincial
salesman, in which the prices fetched by the
last consignment were given. They ranged
from Is. to 4s. per dozen (bunches of twelve
blooms), the highest value being obtained for
Sulphur Phcenix. This is, of course, no cri-
terion of the prices realised during the winter,
when I was informed that the returns some-
times reach ISs. to 20s. per dozen.

S. W. F.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.
Primula arctotis. — Of all the species and
natural hybrids I know, this most nearly ap-
proaches blue. It is a reddish purple, though
why we should be so anxious for the colour blue
in Primroses I do not know, for in their flowering
season we havemasses of this colour in other genera.
It should be stated, however, that this is a vari-
able Primula, even more, perhaps, in the form of
its foliage than the tint of its flowers. I have
several specimens just now with big leaves not
only irregularly toothed, but deeply lacerated and
almost approaching the pinnate. I know no other
Primula of the Auricula section so widely removed
from the entire leaf form. As the plants grow
older they become more characteristic.

Arctoataphylos californica. — This is a
strong grower compared with the better known
Uva-ursi and alpina, larger in all its parts and of
a more sprawling habit. It is to be recommended
as an evergreen creeper for half-shad}' banks or
rock gardens, but its chief point is the free
manner in which it flowers, and the pretty pink
blossoms are arranged in compact clusters. 1 set
my plant in an off-handed way on the north side
of the rock garden in good loam and leaf-mould,
placing on its long stems good-sized stones, and
the result is that under the stones there is plenty
of new roots, and it promises to soon cover its
allotted space.

Dtanthus microlepis. — Of all the Uianthi I
have ever grown this is by far the earliest to
bloom. It opened its tirst flowers on the last day
of April in this late season. To have any Pink
thus early must be a desirable feature, but this is
not all that can be said in favour of this plant.
The habit is tufted and very dwarf, not more than
3 inches high, including the bloom, which stands
well out of the grass. True, the flowers are small,
but they are very sweet and of an attractive rosy
carmine hue.

Calceolaria plantag-inea. — I have noticed
that though this flowers more satisfactorily in
low or damp positions, such positions have not
always enabled one to find such healthy growths
in spring as are found in warmer or drier soil,
where it never fails to live and spread.

The Wood Anemone (nemorosa). — A blue
form of this which I have been growing for six or
eight years, and sent me from a Welsh wood, has
been exceedingly fine this spring. The flowers are
each '2.1 inches across, and with more of the blue
tint in them than I get in my plants of Robin-
soniana. It was not so at first ; for two years
they were not to be distinguished at all from the
common form, but year by year they have got
larger and more blue. In the same way offsets
that have been moved have gone back to the
normal form, but change with years when left
alone.

Ranunculus bilobus is a gem of the first
water. In early April the fresh reniform leaves
were quickly succeeded by flowers of snowy
whiteness and as large as a florin, and though the
plints were but 3 inches high, the flowers were
very conspicujus.

Primula variabilis, so far as I have ever
proved, has deep ruby red flowers, otherwise it is
not distinct, belonging to the Auricula. There is
a tendency, I believe, in certain quarters to give
special names to but the merest or slightly varied
forms, and this almost seems to be such a case.
Anyhow, it is certain that this plant is not the
variabilis of Uoupil, which belongs to the Cowslip
section. J. Wood.

Woodrille, Kirkxtall.

THALICTRUMS.

(meadow rue.)

The species and varieties which constitute the
above genus include several which are well
suited either for the border or the rock garden,
while a few of the more robust would be useful

in the wild garden. But with
these plants, as with many
others, the most has not been
made in a large number of in-
stances. Isolated examples of
some of them may, and indeed
are, frequently seen in those
gardens devoted to hardy plants,
and very pleasing and effective
they are when seen in good
condition. When in flower
their feathery plume-like heads
form one of the most distinctive
features in the garden. This
is particularly true of the forms
of T. aquilegifolium, which
have probably the largest
flowers. Few plants are more
easily cultivated, and the ma-
jority succeed well in light
loamy soil. In those gardens
where heavy or very cold soils
exist, the addition of some sharp
grit and decayed leaf soil will assist in keepiug
the soil open. The more robust-growing kinds,
such as rlavum, lucidum, rugosum, and glaucum,
are more at home in a good loamy soil. If this
be fairly rich and deep, these kinds will annually
attain to fiom 4 feet to 6 feet high, and in
large groups their feathery heads of blossoms
will prove ornamental. All the kinds just named
are of free growth, and may readily be in-
creased by division of the roots just as growth
commences in early spring. Any of those
above named may be turned to good account
by being well placed among shrubs in large
groups for effect. If employed in the her-
baceous border, they should be kept at the
back by reason of their height. Among the
dwarfer kinds worthy of a place in the front
row of the border or in the rock garden are

T. ALP1N0M, a species with few flowers and
four purplish sepals. The plant is rarely more
than 8 inches or 10 inches high, and has a ten-
dency to produce stoloniferous stems. Native of
Britain, North America, &c.

T. anejionoides is a frail, elegant and dainty
species not more than 4 inches high, with white
blossoms nearly 1 inch across. If grown in the
open ground, a sheltered shady spot in moist, peaty
soil should be selected, and when in flower its
delicate blossoms are worth protecting. It may,
however, be well grown in large pans in a cool
frame, and in this way may receive protection.
There is a double-flowered form of this plant re-
quiring the same treatment. It is worthy of note
that shade and moisture appear more essential in
the cultivation of these two kinds than to the
majority, as they quickly scorch in full sunlight.
T. minus is another very desirable species, and
includes some of the
most beautiful and useful
of the dwarfer - growing
members of this group.
Some of the forms very
much resemble the well-
known Maidenhair Fern,
and conspicuous among
these is the kind grown
in our gardens as T. adi-
antifolium. This is in-
valuable either as a pot
plant or for formingsmall
groups in the rock gar-
den. The foliage in a cut
state is especially useful
for mixing with flowers,
and is worth growing on
a large scale for this par-
ticular purpose. The
plant is perfectly hardy,
but its elegant Fern-like
foliage is more quickly
produced by frame cul-
ture. It succeeds well
in any good sandy loam,
though by no means par-
ticular as to soil or situa-
tion.

Another very charming
plant, and from a decora-
tive point of view per-
haps the best, is

T A^UII.ECilKuI.K-M, the
feathered or tufted Col-
umbine. In flower this
is extremely showy and
sure to attract attention,
and when seen in well-
established groups the
corymbose panicles are
\ery striking and the
foliage handsome and
distinct. There are se-
veral well-marked varie-
ties of this : T. a. ru-
brum, with its feathery
masses of crimson ; T. a.
atro - purpureum, T. a.
formosum, T. a. roseum, all well worthy of culti-
vation. These kinds grow well in sandy loam
fairly rich, and should be left alone for a few years
to become well established.

Some of the varieties above named are very
scarce at present, and it may be some years
before they are at all plentiful, as they are some-
what slow of increase. E. J.

Thalictrum aquilegifolium.

Daffodil Grandis or Grandee is, in my esti-
mation, the best of the bicolor varieties. It is
rather later than Empress, and under good culture
has finer blooms than either that variety or Hors-
fieldi. I fancy that this Daffodil is comparatively
unknown, for I rarely see it mentioned, and until
I grew it myself I was not aware that we had a
white-winged vaiiety that could compare with
Empress or Horstieldi. Can anyone say where

358

THE GARDEN.

[May 25, i8J£.

and by whom Grandis was raised ! Probably it is
a seedling from Horsfieldi, and being considerably
later in coming into bloom than that favourite
kind, has attracted much less notice. In any case
it is very valuable as forming a succession to these
grand bicolor kinds, which are so highly prized
by both the amateur and the grower for profit.
This variety, Queen of Spain, abscissus and Mme.
Krelage were in bloom with me at one and the
same time, abscissus being rather later than the
others in expanding its blooms. — J. C. B.

THE ROCK GARDEN.

VIII.

May 15. — The temperature during the past
fortnight has been much warmer than usual at
this time of the year. May 1 was the last
of our rainy days here, and since then the
sun has been shining so brilliantly, that in spite
of the backward season many rock plants have
opened into bloom almost before their usual
time.

The Water Garden.

The water garden is already aglow with the
bright colours of Nymphreas, which, although
planted only twelve months ago, are already well
established. Among the choicest of the varieties
now in bloom is the lovely deep crimson
Nymphaea Leydekeri rosea. Close by, Nympluea
pygunea alba is looking quite at home. The
small white flowers of this variety have a deep
yellow centre and are very striking. Nymphaea
Marliacea carneais also fully expanded, and its
very large flesh-coloured flowers form a delight-
ful contrast to those of the other varieties
mentioned. Another Nyniphse.a now blooming
is Nympluea Marliacea rosea with large delicate
pink blossoms. A plant of the well-known
Aponogeton distachyon is also blooming, and its
fragrance is delightful. The pond in which
these WaterLilies are blooming was made of con-
crete, and masked with grassy banks and rocks
as described in my previous articles on the sub-
ject of constructing ponds in the rock garden.
It is about 2 feet deep, and contains specially
constructed large pockets filled with rich soil
about 1 foot below the surface of the water.
That this situation suits the requirements of the
Water Lilies is proved by their flourishing con-
dition and the abundance of their blossoms in
spite of the exceptionally severe winter.

Bold Effects.

For bold effects the plants employed must
either be themselves of considerable size, or
otherwise they must be grouped in masses. I
will name some of the principal larger kinds of
rock plants suitable for this purpose, confining
the list only to such as I have observed in bloom
during this and the previous week.

Rubus deliciosus is in full bloom at Newton
Abbot, where its long arching branches hang
over a projecting rock, and, laden with large
white blossoms, presents a beautiful picture.
Close by is another bold effect, produced by a
mass of Centaureas hanging down over the ledges
of a large rock. Those in bloom are Centaurea
montana (blue), C. m. alba, C. m. rosea and
C. m. sulphurea. The last, by the way, is
misnamed, as its flowers are not sulphur-yellow
— as the name would imply — but creamy-white.
The deep yellow Centaurea macrocephala does
not bloom till later.

Lithospermum purpureo-cceruleum on a rock
by itself is also most effective. In such a posi-
tion its loose, pendent branches can fall grace-
fully over the stones without doing harm to
other plants. The same might be said of the
Helianthemums now blooming in the same
rock garden. In a well-drained sunny position

where these are covering the face of a large
rock they have not suffered during the severe
frost, but where planted on moister flat ground
they have been killed. The following are now
blooming together: Helianthemum pilosum, H.
roseum, H. venustum, H. prcecox, and a pretty spe-
cies called Rosy Gem. The pink and the white
kinds seem to have suffered less than the yellow
ones. Polemonium reptans, with its handsome
blue flowers, may be used with advantage for
flat portions of larger rocks, where it is most
effective. It forms an effective contrast to the
large leathery leaves and pink flowers of Me-
gasea crassifolia and M. atro purpurea, or
to the yellow flowers of Chrysogonum vir-
ginianum, all of which are blooming simul-
taneously. Under this section of plants for bold
effects I might also mention such quick-growing
kinds as do not attain any considerable height,
but spread quickly into a large carpet, covering
stones and soil alike, and from the fact of their
being in bloom together might form most effec-
tive combinations of colour and foliage as long
as they are kept away far enough from choicer
plants of slower growth. Aubrietias are not
yet past, and the large number of quickly
spreading Saxifrages with white flowers associate
well with them. Of other white flowers now
blooming I will mention Pyrethrum Tschihat-
schewi, the fast spreading Russian Daisy, and
Dianthus plumarius. Iberises, too, would now
have been in bloom if they had not been cut
down by the late severe frost. A large and ex-
cellent pink carpet is formed by Saponaria
ocymoides splendens and also by Polygonum
Brunonis, which is here just opening, and the
pale pink Chrysanthemum Zawadskyi. For a
brilliant blue carpet none can surpass Litho-
spermum prostratum, which, unfortunately,
has suffered during last winter in many places.
For carpets of a maiive colour the most effective
of all are the dwarf Phloxes in their various
shades, some of them almost blue in colour. Of
these 1 will only mention Phlox setacea ''G. F.
Wilson," P. divaricata, P. Liudsayana, and the
numerous P. aldboroughensis varieties.
Exeter. F. W. Meyer

(To be continued.)

ends of a line of plants, and high enough for the
flowers to rise without touching the glats frame
with which they are covered. With two or three
thicknesses of mats on the glass, one can quite
understand that it must be a sharp frost to reach
the interior of such a structure. The walls are
left to protect the foliage as long as necessary,
but they are taken away in the summer to allow
the air to reach the plants.

Taunton. J. c. Ci-arke.

CHRISTMAS ROSES.

Mr. Jenkins's article on Christmas Roses in
The Garden for May 4 (page 31 1) is full of valu-
able information on the cultivation of these useful
flowers, and I quite agree with him that August
is the best month in which to transplant or divide
them. In no part of the country are Christmas
Roses grown so largely or so well as in the west of
England ; in most cases large clumps may be
found that produce hundreds of blossoms in a year.
The foliage of such plants is always large and
handsome, and the leaf-stem will often measure
1 inch in circumference. Such specimens are,
however, well cared for in regard to top-dressings
of short manure in the summer and applications
of manure water in dry weather. We have one
very successful grower in this district who attends
the local market ; his practice is to take up and
divide the plants some time in August, and he
will pull huge specimens to pieces at that time and
place the different parts in suitably-sized pots with
impunity. The plants do not suffer in any way.
As soon as potted they are placed on the shady
side of a high hedge and remain there until there
is danger of frost, when they are removed to a cold
frame. Treated in this way the plants flower as
well as anyone could wish.

A good way of protecting the flowers from
rain and frost, in the case of plants that are grow-
ing in the open ground, is adopted in a private
garden near here. With some well-moistened
clay and bricks the gardener every autumn builds
a temporary 4s-inch wall along each side and the

HARDY FLOWERS AT OAKWOOD,
WISLEY.
It would be difficult to describe the change that
has taken place in Mr. Wilson's Wisley garden
during the last few years, and it would be quite
impossible on paper to give anything more than
an idea of the floral treasures it contains. Pro-
bably Oakwood is never more interesting than in
the spring of the year. It is the time of the
Primrose, which, as all know, has received
through a series of years eo much attention from
Mr. Wilson. The thousands of plants covered
with flowers, displaying every tint that can be
found in this flower, are alone worth a long journey
to see. Among them Oakwood Blue is, of course,
conspicuous, but some of the brighter tints are
very striking. Few flowers vary so much from
seed as the Primrose, and this great variability
stands in the way of quickly increasing any of the
finer forms of this flower. This can be easily seen
when looking over beds of plants raised from Oak-
wood Blue, wherein flowers resembling those of the
parent are comparatively scarce. These shades of
blue varying much in intensity are, however, very
beautiful and form a fine contrast to the crimson,
bright red and other intermediate shades. Auri-
culas, so much neglected at the present time, are, I
was pleased to see, getting a fair amount of atten-
tion at Oakwood. I noted that some very lively
mauve tints approaching blue prevailed among
them. I do not see that a really blue Auricula is
out of the range of possibility. As before men-
tioned, the aspect of Oakwood has been changed
during the last few years — so much so. indeed, as
to be scarcely recognisable to anyone who has
not seen it for some time. Ten years ago the
greater portion was a wild garden pure and
simple, but this has been changed, though in such a
manner that whilst the needs of each plant are
well provided for, the natural features of the
place are rather heightened than destroyed.
Oakwood now consists of, so to say, a series of
gardens differing from each other both as regards
general appearance and the character of their
occupants. Therein the spade, fork and hoe are
almost unknown, the cultural system appar-
ently consisting in creating suitable conditions,
placing the plants there, and allowing them to
grow as they would in their native haunts, the
attention given consisting merely in pulling out
weeds and keeping rampant growing things within
due bounds. In this way there is of course no
root disturbance, and low growing things such as
the dwarf Phloxes spread and carpet the soil.
When some years ago this way of growing hardy
flowers was advocated in The Garden, I must
confess to having been somewhat sceptical, and
those who like myself have been doubters, would,
on visiting Oakwood, have to admit that under
certain conditions at least successful results can
be worked out in this way. At the same time I
should be sorry to advise anyone not having a
good knowledge of hardy flowers to attempt this
form of culture except on a small scale.

In a garden containing thousands of species,
and many of them in bloom, it is rather difficult
in a hurriedvisit to select any for special mention.
Nothing in the place, however, gave me greater
delight than a little colony of Ery thronium grandi-
florum. There is something wonderfully attractive
about this flower springing from the natural leaf
deposit in a moist place in the wood, and looking
just as one would imagine it does in its native
wilds. It is worth growing for its pretty varie-
gated foliage alone, which in substance and colora-
tion reminds one of Phahenopsis Schilleriana.

Mat 25. 1*95. J

THE GARDEN

35-9

Where this grows plentifully — as I supposeit does
in its native land — it must in its blooming time
form a charming picture. No greater contrast to
this modest denizen of the woods can be found than
the brilliant TulipaGreigi — too gaudy perhaps for
some, but probably the most showy flower of
spring, and one which is sure to attract attention.
It is placed where it gets a maximum of sun heat,
necessary for the due maturation of the bulbs.
Primula nivalis and P. viscosa are in fine condition,
and I never before realised their decorative worth.
They grow and bloom as freely at Oakwood as the
common Auriculas, and thus grown they are
among the finest of spring flowers. They are
placed in one of the most exposed positions in the
garden, where they catch the breeze and sunshine,
and they like their home. The Prophet Flower
(Arnebia echioides) is apparently quite at home,
and Shortia galacifolia, at the base of a tree in
the wood, has, seemingly, come to stay. It is a
neat-growing little thing with pure white flowers,
but, 1 imagine, must have time to show its true
form. Epigrea repens enjoys such robust health
at Wisley, that I failed at first glance to recognise
it. It is at its best in a damp place at the foot of
evergreens, and I should doubt if it could be found
in a higher state of vigour in its own country. The
foliage is broad and glows with health, bred evidently
of the congenial atmospheric conditions. Daphne
Blagayana, so difficult to please, is in excellent
condition, the foliage rich of hue and flowers
numerous. It grows on a mound in full expo-
sure. Orobus canescens I must say a word for ;
it is a good thing, the colour of the flowers being
attractive. I am not aware if any difficulties
attend its culture, but I imagine that it only
requires good loamy soil and fair drainage. Len-
ten Roses were going over, but by their vigour
and abundant flower-stalks one could see how
they love the partial shade and more or less
humid atmosphere that prevail in some portions
of the Wisley garden. And here let me give
your readers the benefit of something, learned
respecting this interesting family. It has fre-
quently been remarked in The Garden that the
Lenten Roses, owing to the fact that the flowers
fade so quickly, are useless for cutting. Mr.
Tatnell, Mr. Wilson's gardener, overcomes this
drawback in a very simple manner. Taking a
flower, he made cross cuts at the base of the
stem, when the segments immediately began to
curl outwards. "Now," saidhe, " these will last as
long as Christmas Roses,'' an assertion proved by
the writer to be quite correct. I advise growers
of Lenten Roses to make this experiment, and
they will thus increase their affection for a very
charming and interesting family of hardy flowers.
Daffodils at the time of my visit were one of
the chief glories of Oakwood. They must be
great favourites, for they are here, there and
■everywhere. One would naturally expect to see
them well represented and in good condition, but
I think that many like myself would be surprised
at the vigour of such kinds as princeps and Em-
press. To give your readers a fair idea I measured
a bloom of the latter. It was 4| inches across the
perianth. Princeps was correspondingly fine, with
blooms almost as large as Empress, on stems
nearly 2 feet high ; indeed, I was not aware that
this Daffodil could be brought to such dimensions.
What I like about the Narcissi at Oakwood is the
free way in which they are allowed to grow. One
sees masses of them full of bloom. To all appear-
ance they have been undisturbed for years, and
they enjoy the repose. If flowers of such quality
and in such quantity can be produced in this let-
alone manner, what are we to say about the annual
lifting that has been advocated in The Garden*
and that is practised in some market gardens ?
One good gardener says, transplant annually on to
fresh ground if you would have good blooms.
Another tells us to divide every third year ; but
after seeing the masses of bloom both of the
trumpet and star Narcissi at Wisley, one might
conclude that this must be useless labour. Per-
haps what may be necessary in one soil is not so
in another. Emperor and Sir Watkin were in
their finest form ; the little moschatus and cycla-

mineus were doing very well, and some fine flowers
of W. Goldring gave a true idea of the value of
this variety.

Of the Lilies, Irises, and other things I may say
that there is fair promise of a bounteous harvest
of bloom, but of these I hope to have something
to say at the proper time. J. Curnhill.

GIANT ASPHODELS.

(eremuri.)
These noble hardy Asphodels are now becoming
better known. They are natives of Central
Asia and quite hardy in our country, but owing
to their early growth, a well-drained, sunny,
sheltered spot should be chosen for them.
They are not plants for every garden, but many
gardens have spots that would suit them. They
do not like transplanting or root-disturbance,
so previous to planting the soil should be
thoroughly dug up. There are several species
in cultivation, but one of the handsomest and
the tallest is

E. robostus. This kind has large tufts of
long grassy leaves, which are of a dark glaucous
green colour and about 4 feet in length and 2
inches or more in width. The flower-spike appears
in June, and upon established plants grows 5 feet
high, or even more before a bloom expands. It
then continues growing and flowering for several
weeks, producing hundreds of rosy blossoms and
spikes quite 10 feet in height. What is evidently
a form of this species is a very handsome kind
named nobilis. It has shorter, broader leaves, a
tall and noble spike of bloom, with flowers of the
same colour as those of the preceding kind, but
larger, broader, and of better form. It is quite
distinct.

E. Bcngei is one of the very best, and of this
again, there are two distinct forms. The com-
moner produces flower-spikes about 3 feet in
height, and only about 1 foot of the tip bears
flowers, which appear in July. They are of a
clear canary- yellow colour, with conspicuous
orange stamens. The other form is identical in
regard to colour and size of bloom, but the spike
is taller and handsomer, as it attains 5 feet or
more in height. Quite 2 feet of the upper part
is crowded with splendid flowers. It is a rare
variety, and there appears to be no general
agreement as to its name. It is offered in the
list of a good Dutch grower as E. Bungei per-
fectus. In leafage this species is much like a
Tritonia. From the north of India comes

E. HiMALAicrs, which also blooms in summer,
having spikes about a yard in height, bearing
pure white flowers. All the kinds as yet in
cultivation bloom in summer, with the excep-
tion of

E. Olg;e. This is an attractive kind, which
only commences to flower late in August or early
in September. It lasts well into the succeeding
month. Its flower-spikes grow about 3 feet high,
the lovely buds being of a clear peach-pink colour,
and when expanded of a paler pink shade with
conspicuous yellow anthers. There are other
species known, but not yet much in cultivation.

A. H.

all traces of tho hard weather. This spring, strong
roots that are useful for supplying cut flowers, and
that last spring yielded a succession of fine blooms
during a period of two months, are almost flower-
less. Large bulbs five and six years old have
completely disappeared. No doubt a light cover-
ing of litter would have saved them, but I have
always looked upon Anemones as so hardy, that
protection of any kind would be superfluous. For
the future I shall make a point of mulching with
manure before the tubers break into growth,
though, of course, this is not practicable with
young seedlings, as they continue to make leaves
all the summer and autumn. — J. C. B.

Tulipa Gesneriana and other species.
— May I suggest through your columns the
necessity there exists for the proper nomencla-
ture of what are known as Tulip species ? To my
knowledge they are in endless confusion. I have
now before me three or four self colours that
certainly approach nearer to Mr. Baker's macro-
speila than to Gesneriana. The colours are cerise
with white base, magenta with blue base, and a
white self, growing to the same height as macro-
speila, all having the perfume of the latter, while
Gesneriana major true is much taller, without
any perfume, and an enormous flower. A minor
form of this same Gesneriana conies from Holland
that I would be inclined to name macrospeila
major. Then we have Tulipa maculata in two
forms, major and minor, coming from the Dutch
bulb farms, and a huge yellow flower, under
the name Jaune Pure, that should be simply
yellow Gesneriana. Tulipa Billietiana is also in
confusion, coming as it does from some of the best
firms as true, while from others it is simply the
well-known Golden Eagle. The true Billietiana
illustrates its character so distinctly in the leaf
formation, that no one can be deceived ; besides the
bloom shows the red tinge when first opening,
while Golden Eagle is a week or ten days in flower
before its glorious blaze of scarlet and gold appears.
I look upon Golden Eagle as a gorgeous Tulip for
effect in huge masses. Then there are elongated
sugar-loaf -shaped Tulips in flower now — self
colours in terra-cotta with green base and orange
with black base, deep crimson with jet black,
and also pink striped and self yellow. In shape
the buds are like those of the Parrot species,
but the petals are smooth and not crimped like
those of the Parrot Tulip, and all tall and May
flowering. I would suggest that we should have
a conference of Tulip species at Chiswick, wherg
specimens could be sent in July by numbers from
the old gardens of the United Kingdom, and let
us get out of confusion. See what a conference
did for the Daffodils, work now, I am sorry to see,
at an end, yet a basis of operations that will hold
good for years to come. — Nemo.

Anemones and the frost.— During the last
few years I have raised thousands of the St.
Brigid strain from seeds, and have at this time
of year usually had a good show of bloom. In
the autumn I had some thousands of roots, and I
find that ninety per cent, are either killed or so
injured, that they are worthless for this year at
least. This is the first time I have ever known
Anemones to be seriously injured, and were we
likely to get winters similar to the past, we should
have to adopt measures to guard the roots from
extreme cold. It frequently happens that the
foliage suffers during the winter, but this does
not much matter if the roots and crowns are in
good condition. On the return of mild weather
new leaves are put forth and the plants soon lose

ONCOCYCLUS IRISES.
I send you a gathering of Oncocyclus and Regelia
Irises. Among them you will recognise some old
friends, such as I. iberica, I. susiana, &c. , but there
are others as well. The varieties of I. Korolkowi
are especially beautiful, and some of them are quite
new to me, such as I. Korolkowi concolor and I.
Korolkowi venosa. If Mr. Balfour had not made it
plain in his recently published book that there is
no such thing in Nature as an objective standard
of beauty, I should have put in a claim for them
that they are in strictest accordance with it, but
that is rather against my idea. As it is, I con-
sole myself with the thought which he allows to us,
that they give a glimpse of something better than
this world. Iris Lorteti, I. Helen:e, and some few
others are. unfortunately, only conspicuous by their
absence. This grievous calamity is entirely owing
to the unexpected and desolating frost, which
defied panes of glass and layers of mats, and cut
to pieces the foliage which was still so promisin g
in December ; but to be forewarned is to lie fore-
armed, and boards laid upon the frames after the
fashion which prevails at Baden-Baden will pre-
vent the recurrence of any such thing in the
future and make my treasures safe.

360

THE GARDEN.

[May 25, 1895.

As every year comes round I can only say of
these Oncocyclus Irises that thej' seem to mo to
be more bewitching than ever. ]n their presence
I can bid good-bye to Narcissi, Anemones, Scillas,
&c, without a pang, but I should now like to
hold the year back, or at any rate to moderate the
pace with which my Irises are passing out of
sight. Such delicate and ethereal refinement as
they show cannot stand up against the fierce rays
of a burning sun, and my special favourites will
this season just come and go.

May 15. H. Ewbank.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Annuals. — So Eoon as annuals that have been
sown either broadcast on beds to assist in the
flower garden display or on prepared borders for
cutting can be handled, they should be thinned
out to the respective distances likely to be re-
quired to allow for the development of individual
plants. It is a great mistake to let them remain
crowded thickly together ; the size and quality of
the flowers are thereby seriously affected and the
duration of bloom also considerably shortened.
Where slugs are troublesome (and they seem very
numerous this season, especially on beds and bor-
ders surrounded by Grass), it will be found ad-
visable to mix up a goodly heap of fine wood
ashes, adding thereto a fair proportion of soot, and
dusting the beds all over with the same. Some-
what choicer annuals that were sown in frames on a
slight hotbed will now be nice plants, and may
be transferred to permanent quarters at any time.
As East Lothian Stocks have wintered rather
badly, the spring-sown batch of Stocks will be
found very useful, especially those varieties of
branching habit that are in request for the flower
basket. Cosmos bipinnatus in different colours
came in very acceptable last year for grouping at
the back of borders, and the quantity sown
in 1895 is, therefore, considerably increased.
This is an annual of good habit, growing and
flowering freely on rather poor soil, and having
beautifully cut foliage as well as light, graceful
flowers. Almost identical in height, but of a
different shade of colour, is the new miniature
Sunflower, an annual that makes a very effective
group, holds its foliage well, and continues in
flower until late in autumn. If bedding plants
are rather scarce, one or two large beds may be
rilled with Chrysanthemum tricolor in variety.
Very rich colours are obtainable in these Chry-
santhemums, and, like the Sunflower, the}' bloom
well until the end of the season. Dwarf annuals,
such as Petunias, Verbenas, Phlox Drummondi,
&c. , that were sown early will, if they were
pricked off into boxes or frames, now be nice
plants, and they may be planted out at once, as
they will bear more cold than Geraniums, Fuchsias,
and the like. The remarks made above as to the
depredations of slugs on outdoor-sown annuals will
also be found applicable to those transferred from
boxes or frames. Of all plants I think Zinnias
are the first to suffer if the strain of these is a
good one, and if they are planted near a harbour
for slugs they must be carefully watched until
they are well on the move, and remedial measures
employed at the first sign of attack. If it is pro-
posed to increase the stock of herbaceous plants
from seed, boxes cleared of summer bedding
stuff may be prepared for their reception. I
recommend sowing in boxes rather than out in
the open, allowing the boxes to remain in a
cold frame until the seedlings are fairly well
advanced. One is more certain of a good start in
this way, and this is a consideration if seed is
both scarce and expensive. The boxes should
stand on a good bed of coal ashes to prevent the
ingress of worms.

Herbaceous borders. — There is every indica-
tion that there will be a very fine display in
these borders. Plants grew away remarkably
well all through the late summer and autumn of
1894, and there was a wonderful difference in
their appearance at the end of that season and
at the corresponding time in 1893, the protracted
drought of the preceding summer having seri-

ously crippled many things on light, rather dry
soils. It says much for the value of this race of
plants that they were very little affected by the
exceptional weather of last February. From the
dwarfest Violas and Campanulas, the Pinks and
Veronicas on the front of borders, to the tall
Sunflowers, Starworts, and other things of similar
height at the back, all may be pronounced per-
fectly hardy. I have lost Zauschneria cali-
fornica, a considerable number of Montbretias,
part of a batch of Gypsophila paniculata, and
last, though by no means least, all the large
clumps of Fuchsia Riccartoni, F. gracilis and F.
globosa, which had been many jears in the same
spot. I blame myself now for not mulching them
heavily, but there was no apparent necessity, as
they had never suffered before even in very severe
winteis. What is the experience of Garden
readers with Arundo conspicua ? I find my
clumps are killed, although they were staked
and tied up. The true Pampas (Gyneriumargen-
teum) has, however, come through safely, but is
considerably crippled. Referring back to those
things that are so much better this year than at
the same time in 1894, it will be found that it is
peculiarly the case with species or varieties of the
same that are at their best in a fairly moist spot,
and that suffer proportionately from protracted
drought. On light dry soils the annual heavy
surfi.ee mulching is one of the chief essentials to-
wards the successful culture of such plants.

Sfrinc FOLIAGE. — From the time that so many
things in the way of tree and shrub life came to
be recognised as important features in flower
garden work, the many and varied forms of foliage
have been of considerable interest. I notice that
the exotic trees and shrubs that are as a rule late
in showing leaf are this year even later than usual.
Indigenous trees have put on their spring dress,
but at the present time (May 10) the only sign of
life in such things as the deciduous Cypress, the
Kentucky Coffee Tree, and in shrubs the Virginian
Fringe Tree and Asimina triloba is a plumping of
the buds. One of the finest things in the way of
foliage just at present is furnished by the Copper
Beech, backed by large specimens of the common
Beech and flanked by Larches. I saw this bit of
tree life the other evening with the rays of the
setting sun shining full upon it, and the glowing
tints were simply indescribable. Prunus Pissardi
and Cornus brachypoda are as effective when con-
trasted with green shrubs of similar height as is
the Copper Beech with trees of larger growth. It
may be well to give the reminder in connection
with flower garden woik that there are many hardy
trees possessing foliage of such unique character
as to admit of their use in sub-tropical gardening
where large Palms and Dracanas are not available.
\oung plants of the Umbrella Magnolia, of Ailan-
thus glandulosa, of Pyrus Sorbus, and nice sized
plants of Azara microphylla may be mentioned as
suitable subjects, whilst, given suitable soil and
situation, there are no better things than the
tallest and most graceful members of the Bamboo
family. E. Burrell.

Clartmcnt.

A note from Langport. — My garden is look-
ing better than ever at this season of Peonies.
Despite the severest winter I ever knew, the Tree
Peonies and the early herbaceous sorts are
just now in perfection, as also are Magnolia Lenne',
scarlet Chestnuts, Gentianellas, Siebold's double-
blossomed Cherry, Cydonia Simoni, and the
various Lilacs. Rhodotypos kerrioides is now
covered with flowers like Orange blossom. Rubus
deliciosus, Aquilegia ererulea from the Rocky
Mountains with flowers 3 inches across, Grape
Hyacinths and yellow Banksian Roses are all in
bloom. Akebia quinata, with racemes of flowers,
and growing against a white lias wall, is very
attractive. Alpine Phloxes (white and pink), Iris
paradoxa, florentina, olbiensis alba, Fontarabia and
Mrs. Greton, the yellow Asphodel, the white, red
and blue Centaureas, Iceland Poppies, Leichtlin's
Aubrietia, Myosotis alpestris, Globularia tricho-
santha, tufted Pansies, Fairy Apples, Wistaria,

the large heart-leaved Saxifrage, with spikes
of rosy purple, and an alpine variety covered
with crimson flowers, the crimson and yellow-
flowered Genista Andreana, Lily of the Valley,
Berberis stenophylla, the common Barberry and
single - flowered Pyrethrums are also flowering
freely ; all growing in common soil about 1 foot
deep on a bed of gravel. In dry weather in
summer the soil bakes as hard as a stone, and
when wet it sticks to one's boots like bird-lime.
The broad-leaved Aponogeton covers the water in
the pond with its flowers. All have been in the
open during the winter without protection. The
Japanese Wineberry is quite hardy and is grow-
ing fast. The Scotch Thistle is growing apace ;
it already has leaves 2 feet in length covered
with a white down. Hollyhocks amongst the
shrubs are growing fast ; those in the fields were
all killed. I have known the Laurustinus and
Laurels killed to the ground, but although their
leaves were browned, the wood was not injured.
Some of the Pines and Junipers, Cupressus macio-
carpa, Bays, Arbutus, Berberis japonica and B.
stenophylla are browned and Roses are killed to the
ground. Iris reticulata, Crocuses and Snowdrops
bloomed as freely as ever as soon as the hard frort
was over, and the Tulips and Hyacinths followed.
The Gaillardias are all coming up strongly, which
proves them perfectly hardy. We registered zero
Fahr., which is 4° below any record in this parish.
My Peaches, Apricots and Pears are well set
with fruit, and the blossom in the Apple orchards
throughout this county is the grandest sight I ever
remember. — Wm. Kelway.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1015.

SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

(WITH A COLOURED PLATE OF (1) MISS ROSE
ADD (2) MARY ANDERSON.*)

Twelve or thirteen years ago Messrs. Hraiy
Cannell and Sons, of Swanley, announced the
distribution of some new Chrysanthemums,
which were at the time regarded as a new de-
parture by the growers of that popular flower.
These were some single-flowered varieties, ai.d
hopes were entertained to a very large extenr
that they would occupy an important place at
our shows. On various occasions, however,
encouragement has been offered to the growers
of single Chrysanthemums, but the exhibitoi 's
eye has been so trained and the visitors to shows
are so accustomed to see the large massive
blooms of the other sections, that it is welj-
nigh hopeless for the most ardent lover ot the
single type to expect them to occupy any satis-
factory position at all on the tables at our
November exhibitions.

But for other purposes the single Chrysar-
themum is pre-eminently adapted. Where
free-flowering, bushy plants with abundance of
colour are required late in the year, or w here
cut flowers in profusion are required for vases,
epergnes, bouquets, ire, either separately or in
conjunction with others, the single Chrysanthe-
mums will come in most acceptably. In form
they are varied ; the colours are mostly attrac-
tive, and the light, starry flowers are capable of
being set up in artistic combinations by those
who desire to make use of such material. As a
matter of fact, many of these single flowers are
more pleasing to the eye thus used than poorly
grown, undeveloped blooms of some of the
large exhibition types.

]n former issues The Garden has givm
several different forms. America, a long-

* Drawn for The Garden in the Royal Gardens,
Kew, Nov. 12, 1894, by H. G. Moon. Lithographed
and printed by GuilLume Severeyns.

w

1 M

Mat 25 1895.]

THE GARDEN

301

petalled Japanese single, Jane, both white and
yellow, and Lady Brooke, a small yellow variety,
have been the subjects of coloured illustrations
in The Garden. One of the most attractive
groups of single Chrysanthemums figured in
the horticultural press appeared in the Revue
Horticole five years ago, but, unfortunately,
without the names of the varieties being given.
They were pretty, bright-coloured Marguerite-
like flowers, that do not appear to have found
their way into this country.

The cultivation of single Chrysanthemums
presents little or no difficulty, and to ensure
the most satisfactory results, the natural in
contradistinction to the ordinary method for
show should be practised. Either in the open
border or in pots they are effective and of much
use during their season.

Mary Anderson and Miss Rose, which have
been selected for illustration, are two very well-
known varieties, and much appreciated by those
interested in singles. They were amongst the
earliest introductions we had, and, I belie\e,
both raised by Mr. C. L. Teesdale early in the
last decade. They were sent out by Messrs.
Cannell and Sons in the spring of 1885.

C. H. P.

The Week's Work.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Early Peach house. — The fruit from the earliest
kinds, such as Alexander, Amsden June, and
other Peaches, being mostly gathered, it may not
be out of place to give a few details as to the
ripening of the new wood. Such varieties as fail
to set treely and drop their buds badly are the
kinds which are specially referred to, as I find
they require different treatment to our home-
raised varieties. Last season we had scarcely any
buds drop ; even the variety Alexander behaved
well. This I attributed to the roasting the trees
received in 1893, the summer being so hot. After
the fruit is gathered it is well to cut away use-
less wood. This will give the new wood laid in
for next year's fruit more room and encourage
thorough ripening. If the early kinds are in a
separate house there is less trouble, as the trees
can be treated as required, but if the house has
been kept cool and rather dry to obtain fruit of
good flavour, such treatment should not continue
longer than necessary. In many gardens early
and late trees are in one house, but the trees just
over should now be encouraged to continue free
healthy growth by syringing daily, closing eaily
and maintaining a moist atmosphere. The trees
with fruit just ripening w ill require to be kept
dry overhead with more air, but those now over
require moisture in abundance and the growths
kept clear of red spider. The young wood should
now receive more attention in the way of tying
in to get it well matured, and the borders should
also get water and food m the way of liquid
manure, with a mulch to retain moisture ; this
latter will go a long way to keep down spider, and
on poor or light soils the mulch damped over at
night will cause new surface roots.

StrccESSloNAL houses will now be making good
progress, and fruit in those started early in the
year will be over the stoning period and taking on
the last swelling. The fruits should be freely ex-
posed to all the sunshine and light that can reach
them, so that they may colour freely and get
flavour. Many fruits are so much covered by-
leaves that it will be necessary to remove a por-
tion, and shoots maj' be regulated or tied back
for a time to give the fruit more light. Fruits
on the under side of the trellis may be lifted by
ties or small sticks and given more light. Now
is a suitable time to apply food to these trees
either in a liquid state or otherwise. Do the
work thoroughly, as when the fruits are a little
more advanced there is no opportunity of giving

food, and water also must be given sparingly.
Shoots for extension of main branches should be
loosely tied in position, kept clean, and free of
the glass, which soon cripples growth. Avoid
hard tying in of next season's bearing wood till a
later date, as advised above. Placing nets to
catch the fruit in houses just finishing is, I con-
sider, useless, as a Peach in a soft, fully ripened
state when it falls is much bruised. It is much
better to go over the trees early in the day, and
anyone with a knowledge of ripe fruit can see at
a glance what fruits will part readily from the
tree. The temperature for this house may now
be 65" at night and 10° higher by day, with ample
supplies of moisture in all parts of the house till
the fruits soften, then more air with less moisture
and only a little warmth in the pipes to maintain
an even temperature are necessary.

Late houses. — Thinning the fruits and re-
moving useless wood will be the necessary work,
and as these trees receive more natural treatment,
it is well to thin freely, selecting the larger num-
ber on the upper portion of the trellis, as these
get more colour and attain to greater size. In
thinning, it is well to study the growth of each
variety, as some of our old favourites drop their
fruits more during the latter part of their growth.
The shoots will now require a final going over,
thinning them where much crowded. The shoots
from joints w here fruit is left to mature should be
stopped at the fourth joint ; this is better than
total removal, as it then assists in swelling up the
fruit and does not arrest the flow of sap. With
the thermometer outside standing at 65w at night,
to advise on a fixed temperature would be out of
the question, but sudden fluctuations must be
guarded against. With rain or cold winds mildew
will soon make its appearance, and a genial, grow-
ing atmosphere thould be maintained.

Orchard house. — With summer weather work
in this house will increase in the way of supplying
ade< piate moisture, and my remarks a few weeks
back with regard to mulching now apply with
more force, as with insufficient water the fruits
will cease to swell, and when ripe will be acid and
the colour poor. Such fruiisas Peaches and Nec-
tarines in pots require much the same treatment
as advised above, but more attention in stopping
and thinning, as over-cropping will end in total
loss. Other trees in pots, such as Cherries, Plums
or Pears, need even more care. Cherries will now
be so far advanced as to need different treatment
to other fruits, and may be removed to a cooler
house or sheltered corner. Later fruits just show-
lour will need more moisture, and should
now be thinned freely to get large-sized examples
of the best quality. Trees in small pots may with
advantage be allowed to root out freeby, but such
trees cannot be moved from place to place,
S3 that it is well to depend mostly upon
surface dressings, liquid manure and other quick-
acting foods. Young trees will require more
freedom, but it is well to stop early and
often. Much the same culture is necessary for pot
trees as advised for late Peaches, but more pinch-
ing of strong shoots is necessary, and in stopping,
the reverse is required in pot culture, as the shoot
at the base of the fruit must be allowed free
growth, this being the fruiting wood as regards
Peaches and Nectarines for next year. The syringe
must be used freely twice a day, thoroughly
moistening the trees in all parts of the house.
The growth is much stronger if a little air is left
on the ventilators at night, opening after sun-
set, but closing and damping as usual in the after-
noon. Strawberries in pots in mixed houses
are troublesome at this season. It is well to get
rid of them at the earliest moment possible, or
spider will play sad havoc with the fruit trees,
though by a free use of the syringe the pest can be
kept down, cold frames being best for the Straw-
berries. Green fly will perhaps be troublesome ; this
must be got rid of as soon as detected, fumigating
several evenings in succession and syringing freely
next morning.

Strawberries. — The season for forced fruit is
now drawing to a close and there should be no
delay, when any plants have been cleared of their

fruit, in thoroughly washing down all shelves and
dressing walls with fresh lime, using a portion of
sulphur in the limewash, as, no matter how much
care was taken in keeping the plants clean, with
hot weather red spider will soon spread rapidly.
There is often a want of fruit at the end of May and
early in June, and for that period I have advised
cool frames. The plants stood on a hard coal ash
bottom finish better and can be kept much cleaner.
Such varieties as Sir J. Paxton and Sir C. Napier
are the best for late work ; the latter is less subject
to red spider, and both are almost mildew-proof
if not over-watered. Plants plunged in manure
beds will require less moisture, but maintain a free
circulation and warmth in the pipes, as such plants
with sudden changes of weather are soon affected by
mildew. The planting of forced plants for autumn
supplies should not be longer delayed, planting
firmly in good soil, deeply dug and liberally man-
ured, not allowing the plants to suffer from want of
moisture, it being a good plan to damp overhead in
the evening and to remove the flower-spikes as
they appear till required for a crop.

G. Wythes.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Planting Vegetable Marrows. — In many places
the earliest Potato frames will have been cleared
of the crop, and thus an opportunity afforded of
getting the earliest Marrows transplanted. The
Potato soil will afford a good rooting medium
without any addition of manure at present, a little
stimulant being easily given later on when the
plants are in full yield. If the soil is at all dry,
give a thorough soaking the day before, the
plants themselves also being all the better for the
same treatment. In planting do not sink the
collars too deeply in the soil, or basal rot is liable
to ensue, and in order to avoid the necessity of too
frequent waterings at first, mulch for a foot or so
round the stems with spent Mushroom manure.
All blooms on the plants should be removed, one
plant to a light being ample. Syringe overhead on
fine afternoons until established, airing cau-
tiously at first and liberally when growth has
freely commenced. Those that are to be planted
in second early Potato frames must not be allowed
to suffer from want of pot room or nourishment,
a little sprinkling of guano or fish manure doing
much towards keeping the plants in a growing
condition if in small pots and not wanted for
another w eek or so.

Globe Artichokes. — It may now be seen in
what condition the stools of these are, as growth
is somewhat advanced. Sometimes when much
weakened by frost a colony of tiny offsets ap-
pears round the plants. It is not advisable
to allow all of these to remain even if not wanted
for filling up blanks or for potting. The weakest
and most distant of them should be removed, and
about half-a-dozen of the strongest and nearest
home allowed to remain. There will be greater
need than usual this summer for feeding Globe
Artichokes. This may be done either by pouring
farmyard liquid over a good thick mulching of
cow manure, or by frequent applications of fish
manure or guano sown around the plants during
showery weather. Hoeing and stirring the soil
around and between the plants are also highly
beneficial. In March I advised those who had lost
most of their old stools to take up a portion of the
young offsets and pot them, afterwards giving
them frame protection with the ultimate view of
transplanting them. These should now be of good
size, and may be put out towards the end of the
month. Prepare the ground liberally, plant care-
fully, and mulch heavily for some distance round
the base, as it is astonishing how these subjects
root out when once they get established and what
an immense amount of feeding thev will take.
When plants raised from seed are fit for trans-
planting, an odd piece of ground should be selected,
as so many being of a worthless character it would bfi
folly to plant them where they are to remain. On
an odd plot the seedlings can be planted thickly
and the good ones only retained.

362

THE GARDEN

[Mat 25. 1895.

Seakale. — The sets inserted some time ago
for the main forcing batch now being some-
what advanced in top growth should be gone
through, and the new crowns reduced to about
a couple on each set. Some leave more, and, in-
deed, others never thin at all, but the practice is
ruinous, as no sun or air can gain admission, and
weak, puny produce utterly unfit for forcing is
the result. After reducing the crowns give a
broadcast sowing of a good fertiliser and use the
Dutch hoe freely to keep down weeds. It is a
good plan on light soils to give a good mulch of
some light material to conserve the moisture.
Nothing surpasses that oft-recommended material,
old Mushroom manure. All coverings, even from
the latest assisted roots, must now be removed,
and any that are to remain another season must
have their growths also reduced in number. The
ground amongst those that were covered with
pots and leaves must be pricked over with a fork,
and either short rich manure worked in or a good
surface mulch given later on.

Newly-planted Rhubam.— Where new plan-
tations of Rhubarb were formed this season, and
early kinds were given a sunny position and warm
soil in order to encourage early growth and ripen-
ing of the crowns for forcing, a good thick mulch
must be given and water supplied to the roots, as
many new fibres will now be at work. Upon no
account pull any from these this season, as this
would greatly weaken the crowns before they get
established. If any seed-stems appear, remove
them at once, as these also weaken the roots.
The same remark applies to old-established beds,
as seed-stems are extra troublesome this season.
Where any choice kind that was forced has been
gradually hardening off under some protecting
material, it may now be finally planted in the
permanent bed and allowed a three years' growth
before again being forced.

Liquid manure. — There will now be plenty of
subjects in full growth that this stimulant will
suit better than all others, such, for instance, as
successional batches of Cabbage, hand-light and
other Cauliflowers, and Tripoli Onions. In apply-
ing it be sure to dilute it sufficiently if from a
tank or well, and take care not to water the
plants overhead. After applying the manure
water, go over the beds with pure water, using a
rose to cleanse the foliage from any that may have
lodged upon it, and to wash any remaining sedi-
ment well into the ground. A good watering
with this once every fortnight will do a deal of
good to any of the foregoing crops.

J. Crawford.

Chrysanthemums.

DEPTH IN CHRYSANTHEMUM BLOOMS.

Mr. Molvneux has apparently overlooked the
origin of this discussion. In writing under the
heading of " Chrysanthemums for the New Year "
I happened to express a dislike to "mere lumpi-
ness" in a Chrysanthemum bloom, simply ex-
pressing in this a personal opinion without any
idea of criticising the opinions of other people.
This opinion Mr. Douglas was good enough to
notice and to criticise, being careful at the same
time to leave us in doubt as to his own taste, and
contenting himself with telling us that " the best
judges" give good points for depth. With much
that Mr. Molyneux advances I cordially agree,
especially as to the merits of the three varieties
he names, the last of which (Duchess of York) I
have not, however, grown or seen except in
an illustration. These or any other drooping
petalled varieties are not, in spite of their size,
what I call lumpy. I feel grateful to Mr. Moly-
neux for giving us the points which judges keep
in view when judging. Most of these points,
taken individually, are admirable. Taken as a
whole, however, 1 contend that they are leading
to the production and to the retention of new
varieties far less beautiful than many that are
fast being supplanted from want of one or other

of these fixed points. One does not need to be
told that added depth, breadth of petal, and
solidity of bloom mean higher cultivation, but the
question I have in view is, do these things mean
added beauty in the majority of cases? If not,
why seek after them ?

Taking these points singly, first we have
Size. — Surely there should be a limit even to
this. Is Mrs. C. Harman-Payne a type of beauty V
And yet we are told by Mr. Shoesmith that " it is
among the first dozen seen most often in exhibi-
tion stands." Mr. Shoesmith goes on to say,
" Apart from its size, however, there is nothing to
recommend it unless it be that it is one of the
easiest to grow." Duke of York, too, is said in
the same article to be a very popular exhibition
variety, " dull and uncertain in colour, with very
little character in its formation ; it has gigantic
size." It " may be made to produce blooms, per-
haps not altogether repulsive, by late bud-selec-
tion." Strong words these, and I would com-
mend the whole article, which may be found in
your issue for February 16, to those interested in
the subject.

Depth. — This being the original point of dis-
cussion, I may be allowed to say that I incline to
the opinion that the depth of a Japanese Chry-
santhemum should not much exceed one half its
diameter, measuring from the base of the bracts,
and always excepting those varieties whose petals
droop naturally, as these cannot possibly be in-
cluded as lumpy. Anything exceeding this ap-
pears to me to spoil the symmetry of the flower.

Solidity. — This may be overdone. Some of
our most charming varieties are far from solid.

Breadth or floret. — Not necessarily a gain of
beauty. If broad, strap-shaped petals are desir-
able, Mr. Molyneux is unfortunate in having
selected three comparatively narrowpetalled
varieties, one of them especially so, as types of
elegance. The tendency is to get varieties with
the breadth of petal of a Cactus Dahlia plus the
solidity of a show Dahlia.

Symmetry. — An indefinite point which must be
a matter for individual taste.

Freshness — Colour. — These may pass without
comment.

Coarseness of floret. — I never before saw
this advanced as a point of merit. Probably the
converse is intended, though one has one's doubts
about it when one remembers the coarse-petalled
varieties so often seen.

Contour. — Might fairly be included with sym-
metry.

Well-filled centres. — There is no neces-
sity for over-filling them at the risk of spoiling
the grace of form.

Consistency of form with the variety. — This,
I take it, should be the essence of the whole
matter. If this point had its due weight, exhibi-
tors would not need to hesitate about including
old varieties which have been retained and valued
at home, but which would have no weight on the
show board under the existing regime.

Difficulty of cultivation. — With this I
entirely disagree. It is simply a bolstering up of
varieties which, unless they have some exceptional
and peculiar merit, should give way for others
without this defect. Often enough the inability
to grow certain varieties of delicate constitution
up to their best form arises from circumstances
beyond the control of the grower. Apart from
the quality of the flowers when compared with
other varieties, the demerits of a plant should
never add weight in favour of its flowers when
being judged. It is putting a premium on a bad
constitution. They may be, to the initiated,
wonderful examples of skill and of difficulties
surmounted, but to the general public, from whom
horticultural shows get their support, they have
no enhanced value.

I am not sure that it would be so difficult as
Mr. Molyneux imagines to add a point or two to
those given by him, though one must needs have
some amount of courage to do so. My first
point would be in a negative direction, as it would
tend to lower the number of points given in
judging to flowers of inelegant form, and that

there are many such which now add greatly to the
chances of winning prizes is beyond question.
With the great wealth in variety that we now
have, it reflects but little credit on those respon-
sible that flowers with such little intrinsic beauty
are to be found. While such things happen it is
difficult to ie; where symmetry and contour come
in. Would it not also be helpful to add "diversity
of form" to the points given by Mr. Molyneux, of
course eliminating all coarse and characterless
varieties? I have, however, no wish nor vocation to
make suggestions, and had no thought of doing so.
It is interesting and instructive to hear Mr.
Molyneux's opinion of catalogue descriptions, and
his wide experience must carry weight. I am
glad to learn that the case is not so bad as it
seems. The loss of character in some flowers of
which I wrote and which had been unduly over-
grown appears to me to be sufficiently consistent.
Deep varieties they were naturally, and they had
been made deeper and coarser by over-stimulation.
If depth cannot be added by such means, what
becomes of the Molyneux system of cultivation?

J. C. Tallack.

Kitchen Garden.

THE ASPARAGUS KNIFE.

At page 325 of your issue of the 11th inst., in
the able cultural directions then given as to
Asparagus, the following passage occurs : " In
forward localities cutting will now have become
general. Some judgment is needed in this
work, as if the knife is thrust too deeply down,
&c." I have often wondered why a knife came
to be used in gathering Asparagus. In my
opinion one can gather Asparagus more quickly
and better without a knife. By taking the
young shoot gently between the forefinger and
thumb of the right hand close to the surface of
the bed, the shoot is easily severed and placed
in the left hand, and one does the work very
quickly. Here a young lad has gathered from
400 to 500 heads daily during the last week,
and in no case has it taken over one hour to
gather, wash, and tie up into bundles of fifty
heads each. I have to produce an abundant
supply of Asparagus daily while the season
lasts, and after having tried various manures, I
consider nothing so good as nitrate of soda and
sulphate of ammonia mixed with wood ashes,
all well mixed and passed through a half-inch
sieve. A dressing in the first week of March
and a second about the end of the first week in
May keeps the beds going well into June, when
cutting is discontinued. A mistake often made
even now is putting a heavy covering of farm-
yard manure over the beds in autumn, and in
instances that have come under my notice 3
inches or more of soil above the coating of
manure. Our beds here are all on a level. The
spaces between the beds are as high as the
beds, which I think very desirable, as the roots
derive a great amount of nourishment from
these spaces. When these are dug out to a
depth of some inches (I have seen the centre of
a bed 1 foot higher than the bottom of the
alley) the principal feeders are cut off, the sides
of the beds presenting an open surface for
frost. It might justly be said that in many
a garden root-pruning of Asparagus is done
annually. I once took charge of some beds
treated on the raised system, with alleys dug
out and thrown on to the beds in autumn
where Asparagus was never looked for until
May. After reducing these beds and filling up
the alleys, I cut Asparagus of the finest quality
three weeks earlier the first season following ;
the beds produced a much greater quantity,
and the quality ever so much better. Our beds

Mat 25, 1865.1

THE GARDEN.

363

here are mulched in autumn before frost with
long manure from the stables, net more than 2
inches or 3 inches in thickness, with no soil
whatever over the mulching, and after all the
severe frost we have had during the past winter
the beds are producing quite as well this season
as they have done during the last seven years.

I should have stated that early in March the
mulching is taken off the beds. The bed is
slightly pricked up with a garden fork, top-
dressed with the manure already referred to,
a sprinkling of soil being put on over all, the
space between the beds forked over and as
much of the mulching buried as can be got in,
any that is long and strawy being put between
the rows of Strawberries, so that none is wheeled
away. I sprinkle the beds two or three times
during the season with agricultural salt, more
for retaining moisture and destroying slugs than
for any manurial properties the salt contains.

A short time ago I was in a garden where
the owner said to me, " Can you tell me how I
do not manage to grow Asparagus ( " The beds
had been heavily covered with cow manure in
autumn, and a thick coating of soil put over
all. The alleys between these beds were like
open drains, over a foot deep. On removing at
least 0 inches of covering I found the Asparagus
starting. Had these beds been treated as re-
commended, I have every reason to believe
the owner would have had a daily supply
of Asparagus from them since the middle of
April, being a fine situation and the soil of a
light gravelly nature. I started gathering As-
paragus this season on April 20.

Stoke Pari Gardt ns, Slough.

D. Kemp.

*** With the above communication some
remarkably tine heads of Asparagus were sent,
showing that the treatment is in every way
satisf actor v. — Ed.

Celeriac. — This is a most useful vegetable and
worthy of more extensive cultivation. If two
batches are grown, the one for autumn and the
other for winter use, the former may be used for
flavouring, while the second batch, although
similarly useful, will also serve as a vegetable for
the dining-room. Some growers plant it out on
the level by the margins of walks, but it deserves
a better position than this in a good rich soil. I
prefer a wide shallow trench and to dig in plenty
of rich manure. Four rows may be planted in each
trench, as earthing-up is not necessary, it being
the root portion that is used. While growing,
several copious drenchings of liquid manure
should be given, in addition to which a mulch of
Mushroom manure will help to retain the moisture.
Anyone anxious to try it may still sow seed in a
box or pan, growing the plants in a frame until
they are fit for transplanting. — J.

Late Peas. — In northern localities, as a rule,
the end of the month or during the first week in
June is late enough for the final sowings of tall-
growing late varieties, although up to the third
week, or even the end of June, the small round-
seeded sorts may be put in. Mildew is often such
a scourge amongst late Peas, that one had better
be a little earlier with them than incur the risk of
total destruction. These remarks of course apply
more strictly to rainy, low-lying localities. Further
south, Ne Plus Ultra, British Queen, and Walker's
Perpetual Bearer may safely be sown up to the
second week in June, although even then free-
dom from mildew cannot be guaranteed. As
these late crops are subject to much sun and
wind, more care will be necessary in preparing for
sowing and in after-treatment likewise. On shal-
low soils and at high elevations trenches are im-
perative. These should be taken out rather
shallower than for Celery and plenty of good
manure dug in. The seed should then be sown
and sufficient soil returned to cover it nicely.

This will leave room for water and to apply a
mulch should such be necessary. Those who with
a good climate and soil can wait till the second
week in June before sowing the latest crops will
find Stourbridge Marrow and the well-known
Criterion good varieties. Where tall sticks are
difficult to obtain, Veitch's Autocrat and Sturdy
are most convenient and profitable. Where the
soil is hot and shallow, these trenches may with
advantage be soaked with farmyard liquid once
in ten days, as it is astonishing what a quantity
of moisture the roots will assimilate when growth
is healthy and strong. — J. C.

Frame Cucumbers.— Plants transferred to
frames and pits in April will now be making free
growth. Care will, however, be necessary for
some little time in airing, covering at night with
double mats and watering with warm water soon
after noon on sunny days. When sun is absent,
refrain from wetting the foliage, especially in the
afternoon, and if any roots appear on the surface
of the soil, add a little more sweet turfy compost
and make it firm. Allow a sufficient number of
main shoots to extend for the present, removing
any that are weak or crowded. It is important
that a little air be admitted before the tempera-
ture of the frames has risen too much from sun-
heat. When this occurs and a volume of air is
admitted suddenly, disastrous results often follow.
-C. N.

Bolting' in Cabbages. — Bolting amongst
spring Cabbages appears to be very common this
season. This is no doubt due to the unusually
severe frost which followed the very mild open
weather. Cabbages and other green vegetables
grew with great freedom up to the new year, and
when in a sappy condition were caught by the
frost. The snow protected the autumn-planted
batches of Cabbages, but the check given was
considerable — so great, indeed, that bolting is the
consequence. I think winters like the past prove
more and more the necessity of planting several
varieties of Cabbages in autumn instead of de-
pending on one variety only. I must speak again
in praise of that good old Cabbage, Ellam's, as
although man}- plants of Earliest of All and En-
field Market, grown under exactly the same con-
ditions and planted at the same time, have bolted
with me, not one of Ellam's ha? done so. A con-
Mi k ruble quantity of Early Rainham in one gar-
den in this neighbourhood is quite free from
bolting. — J. C, Newark.

Seeds not germinating.— There will be much
disappointment this season in many kitchen and
market gardens, as so much seed was sown before
the ground was in a fit condition to receive it.
After the snow and frost disappeared many were
naturally anxious to get their earliest crops sown,
but in many instances they would have been for-
warder in the end by waiting a fortnight longer.
In the case of Marrow Peas, many rotted where
undue haste in sowing was indulged in. Sprouted
Potatoes, again, that were planted before the soil
had time to get warmed have come up very irregu-
larly and weakby. By waiting until the sun's
rays have had time to penetrate and warm the soil,
and by repeated surface stirrings in the meantime,
growth is not only quicker, but the yield much
more profitable. Another point well worth the
attention of all who desire early vegetables is
working into the soil plenty of light opening ma-
terial, such as leaf mould and potting shed refuse,
at the same time raising the ground somewhat
above the surrounding level. This course will
work wonders in gardens which are not naturally
warm and well drained. — C. H. N.

The Potato crop.— On early sheltered borders
such Potatoes as Sharpe's Victor, Ringleader and
Puritan will need attention in the matter of
cleaning and earthing up. Choose a bright and
if possible windy day to pass the Dutch hoe be-
tween the rows, and afterwards draw a moderate
quantity only of soil up to the base of the haulm.
On poor shallow soils apply a little artificial
manure before earthing up, bearing in mind that
we are not yet out of danger from frost, and that
protection is necessary for some time longer. In

the case of my earliest batches, which I protect
with troughs, I place a couple of bricks at each
end of the rows. This raises the troughs and
prevents them from injuring the haulm after
earthing up. Of course where a framework and
rough canvas are used there is little or no difficulty
in the matter. Although full early under ordinary
circumstances for watering Potato crops, a soaking
may be found necessary on shallow warm soils,
and the best time to apply it will be just as the
tubers are forming and again when half grown.
-C.

Potato Ringleader.— I am glad to hear
"J. C." has found the above Potato so satisfac-
tory. With me it is superior to Sharpe's Victor,
which for two seasons I tried both in frames and
in the open, and it was poor in the extreme.
The soil here is heavy and retentive of moisture :
therefore I think Victor requires a light soil. The
best examples I have seen of it came from soil of
that character. — E. Molyneix.

Mulching early Peas.— As a rule the first
early Peas are planted in the warmest corner of
the garden and in a warm soil, the object being
to secure a few pickings as quickly as possible.
This being so, it sometimes becomes necessary to
mulch and even to water to avoid a sudden
collapse of the crop. Chelsea Gem is now in full
flower and promises well. Before putting on the
mulch of short manure, give a sprinkling of
artificial manure: this will be washed down to the
roots by occasional waterings and enable the
pods to swell oft'. If this assistance is denied the
crop in dry windy weather, the secondary blooms
sometimes fail to set at all. If William the First,
Exonian, or any of thesecondearliesshowa tendency
to grow instead of to flower, they may be urged into
fertility by pinching out the leading growths, and
when well furnished with bloom may be as-
sisted in the same way as advised for the earlier
crops. — J. C.

Late Broad Beans. — Where these are es-
teemed after July, extra trouble is necessary to
ensure a crop, as if not favoured with a somewhat
Bhady situation, a cool and somewhat heavy soil,
and plenty of nourishment, the foliage not only
falls a victim to black aphis and becomes at once
sickly, but the Beans are tough and uneatable.
An east or, if obtainable, a north border is best,
or, failing these, a plot of ground somewhat
shaded by trees will answer fairly well, and even
here, if time can be spared, the crops will be
greatly benefited when in full growth by applica-
tions of liquid from the cow yard. For present
sowing none, I think, can surpass Bunyard's
Longpod, and where colour is a desideratum
Green Windsor will answer the purpose well.
Beck's Green (Jem is a capital Bean for shallow
soils if sown at this date, it being dwarf, a capital
bearer, and the beans of good colour and tender.
— J.

Tomato Ladybird.— For free cropping few
varieties can equal the above. I have now grown
it for two seasons and find it all that was stated
when sent out. It is interesting to read such notes as
those of "J. C." Hisbeingquiteadifferentlocality
to where this Tomato was raised, shows it is reli-
able in other places. It is strange that a variety
highly recommended for winter fruiting should be
one of our best outdoor kinds. This is readily
understood, as a variety which sets so freely in
winter often does well under adversecircumstances
in the open. " J. C." does not advise this variety
for open-air culture, but I can recommend it with
every confidence. As regards quality, it was the
best with me in 1894. — W.

Sowing Runner Beans : a new method. —
This being the season for sowing runner Beans, I
should like to suggest a method of growing them
instead of the usual conventional rows. This is
to sow the Beans in circles of 4 feet in diameter. I
have practised the plan for some years, and find
it more economical and convenient than the usual
system of growing in rows. Stretch a line across
the piece of ground to be sown and mark out
centres 6 feet apart, and from these centres with
a piece of string draw out circles 4 feet in dia-

3G4

THE GARDEN

[May 25, 1895

meter, and you have the position for the seed
Beans with a space of 2 feet between the circles.
A circular drill may be drawn or the Beans
dibbled in. For training, use rods about 10 feet
in length, and with a stout piece of tarred string
draw all together about two-thirds of their height
by twisting^ the string round each rod and draw-
ing slightly together cone shape. I should have
said that before placing the rods in position a
barrowload or more of half-rotten manure should
be spread over the surface within the circle,
which will be found of great assistance to the
Beans when podding heavily, and later they
should be similarly well mulched outside each of
the circles. By this method of culture more
Beans can be produced from a given space than
in ordinary rows. I calculate one row of circles
will produce the amount of three ordinarily
grown rows on half the space required for the
latter.— C. H. D.

Early Racehorse Potato.— "J. C.V'noteon
the Ringleader Potato suggests the inquiry if he
or any of your readers knows the old Racehorse.
I picked up a fine sample of it the other day, and
the old labourer who had grown it for years
assured me that under a common glass light he
had often planted the Racehorse and eaten it in
two months, and easily in ten weeks in front of
a south or west wall, barring accidents from frosts.
Some growers also know the Victor as the Six
Weeks Potato, though I confess I have not been
able to have young edible Potatoes in quantity
so early from that very precocious variety : not
even from greened sets boldly started before
planting either under glass or in front of a south
wall. 1 fancy, too, the yellow-fleshed Victor is the
better kind. The Victor's reputation for earliness
and quality is well established, but still one hears
complaints of almost all favourite Potatoes being
capricious as to soil and other local environments.
-D. T. F.

It consists in placing strong posts at each end
of the row, connecting these with galvanised
wires, strained through intervening iron stan-
dards. Thus a trellis is formed on which the
canes are trained, and, if properly fixed, a plan-
tation of Raspberries thus treated will last for
years. Where this system is adopted the canes
should be planted about 1 foot apart, and the
shoots should be trained a little diagonally.
Some growers dispense wholly with supports ;
they merely place the canes in bundles and
unite the tops from each pair of stools, thus
forming a series of arches on which the fruit is
borne. This is, however, a plan which cannot
be recommended. After planting, surface-dress
with decayed manure. During the summer the
ground must be kept clear of weeds and the soil
occasionally loosened with the Dutch hoe. When
the plants have become established and the
young canes in the growing season have made
about a foot of new wood, all useless suckers
should be pulled away in order to admit light
and air to such canes as are selected to remain.
When the fruit is gathered the canes that have
borne it should be at once cut out, so as to give
increased space to those intended to bear next
year's crop, and as soon as the leaves have

tinguished which are the best, and the old bear-
ing canes cut away immediately the crop of fruit
is gathered. If these details were attended to
Raspberry growing would be found much more
profitable. I think some of the older varieties,
such as Fastolf and Red Antwerp, are hardier and
more frost-proof than newer kinds, although some
of the latter certainly have larger fruit. — C. N.

THE APRICOT.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

RASPBERRIES.
Raspberries will thrive and bear fruit in
almost any kind of soil that is well manured ; J
but the finest fruit is produced by plants grow- j
ing in a deep, rich loam. Raspberries produce ]
a thick mass of fibres near the surface, and
therefore are very susceptible to drought, which
causes the fruit to come small and shrivelled.
Before a new plantation is made, the ground
should be trenched two good spits deep, or,
what is better, 2£ feet. This must, however, in
some measure depend on the character of the
sub-soil, as if it be of an inferior quality it will
not be advisable to bring much of it to the sur-
face. When trenching, plenty of manure or
garden refuse should be worked into the ground.
The best time for planting is as soon as the
canes have shed their leaves. The mode of
planting must, in some measure, be regulated
by the form in which the canes are intended to
be trained. Where stakes are available, the
simplest plan is to tie the bearing canes to them ,
taking care that they are securely fixed in the soil.
The stakes should stand out of the soil about 4J-
feet, and to each of them should be tied, when
the plants have become established, five or six
of the strongest and best placed canes from each
stool after the fruiting canes of the previous
season have been removed. Assuming that
this plan of training is adopted, they should be
planted in lines not less than 5 feet apart, and
the distance asunder in the line should be the
same, or not less than 4 feet. They will not
t hrow up very strong growths the first year, but if
i he fruit be sacrificed and the canes cut to within
] foot of the ground, they will throw up much
stronger canes the following season. Another
mode of training is called the hedge system.

Raspberry Baumforth's Seedling.

fallen the latter should be thinned and regulated.
After regulating the canes, some recommend
that the ground be dug and a quantity of
manure worked in about the roots, but it is
questionable whether such practice is not a
mistake. A better plan is to loosen the surface
with a steel fork, and then to mulch with 2
inches or 3 inches of decayed manure, which
will protect the surface roots from frost in
winter and drought in summer. Of varieties,
the best are Fastolf, Baumforth's Seedling
(here figured), Semper Fidelis, Belle de Fonte-
nay, Hornet, and Superlative. T.

Raspberries and frost. — Mr. Prinsep's note
on the above (p. .329) is instructive, as it clearly
proves the importance of plenty of room for the
canes. Setting aside the deaths which invariably
occur in very sharp winters amongst plantations
unduly crowded with canes, I contend that the
yield is less and the quality of the fruit inferior to
that from canes grown on the post-and-wire system.
These receive a maximum amount of sun and
air, and become stout, vigorous, and thoroughly
ripened ; therefore able to stand almost any
amount of frost. A mistake which we may fall
into is allowing all the new canes to grow until
the autumn before reducing their numbers. They
should be freely thinned as soon as it can be 6u-

Those who have only a fair crop of Apricots
this season may think themselves fortunate, as
in the majority of gardens they will be very
scarce. Hereabouts many gardeners did not
protect their trees, the few puny blossoms not
being worth the trouble. As soon as the buds
commenced to enlarge it could be seen that they
would not only be few in number, but much
weaker than usual. This condition is attributed
by some to the heavy crops the trees have
borne the last few years, but I think this idea
is erroneous, as trees which have been regularly
and freely thinned of their fruit and nourished
at the roots were as thin of bloom this spring
as those which had been unfairly cropped and
ill nourished. My own opinion is that last
autumn the wood of Apricot trees, lacking heat,
did not become sufficiently ripened,
and that in consequence the bloom
buds were unable to withstand the
terrible frost of February even though
only in their embryo state.

It will be remembered that the
weather was extremely mild up to
the beginning of January, and that
the wood of fruit trees generally was
then in a soft and sappy condition,
so much so, that the wonder to me is
that Pears, Apples and Plums are
showing such an abundance of bloom
with the minimum amount of sun-
shine that characterises our summers
and our too frequently damp cold
autumns. Disbudding is carried out
in very few gardens, and the trees
become such a thicket, that light
and heat are much impeded, and
stout, well -ripened wood becomes
next to impossible, the evil becoming
more apparent after a sharp winter.
I think the trees need disbudding
early, as in the case of Peaches
and Nectarines, the growths which
spring from old spurs being freely thinned
out. Overcropping the trees is a great evil,
and must be paid for sooner or later. The
branch-withering or paralysis is a great draw-
back to Apricot culture now-a-days. Time
was when this malady was almost unknown.
Another common cause of failure, especially
with amateurs, is planting in too rich soil.
Farmyard manure should never be added to the
border, but applied as a surface mulch to es-
tablished trees bearing full crops. A warm,
somewhat sandy soil suits Apricots well, the
same being made very firm, and plenty of lime
scraps added. In dry summers lack of water
causes premature exhaustion and branch-wither-
ing, especially with trees carrying heavy crops.
Of late years the demand for young Apricot
trees has been great, so many amateurs having
planted them. This has induced nurserymen
to give them a rich soil in order to grow
them into a saleable size as soon as possible,
but trees grown on poorer land and having thin,
matured wood are infinitely better. In a
gentleman's garden near here the Apricot thrives
in an exceptional manner. The trees occupy a
west wall, produce wood of moderate thickness,
and almost annually yield immense crops.
When the fruit is swelling the roots receive

May 25, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

365

copious supplies of liquid, poured over a heavy
mulching. The gardener has what may be
termed a preparatory wall, from which trees are
occasionally removed to fill spaces on the Apricot
wall proper. The border is of a sandy nature,
extremely shallow, and by reason of being an
every-day route for foot-passengers, becomes as
hard as a turnpike road. The surface is never
interfered with except when a tree is removed,
when it is found that permeating this hard and
limited area is a mass of wiry, fibrous roots
which have produced a corresponding top
growth. When any of these are removed into
the permanent border — which, by the way, re-
sembles the one above referred to — they retain
the good constitution they have acquired and
go on from year to year. From this I gather
that loose borders should be avoided in the
cultivation of this fruit, and that the admixture
of animal manure lays the trees open to the
attacks of those disorders which usually follow
a sappy and immature condition of the wood.
For those who are not favoured with the best
of climates I can confidently recommend Hems-
kirk, as being hardy, free-bearing and less
liable to die off than Moorpark.

Newark, Notts. J. Crawford.

GRAPE MADRESFIELD COURT.

Every season the question as to the why and
wherefore this grand Grape should crack so badly
under treatment that does not similarly affect
say, the Black Hamburgh, invariably crops up,
and is likely to do so as long as it retains its
popularity. This cracking is a great drawback
to the variety, its one great fault in fact, and
how to prevent it is the difficulty. According
to my experience the berries are far more liable
to crack in some localities and even in some
positions in a garden than in others. The
treatment, therefore, that answers well in one
case may be altogether wrong in others, and
what we have to do is to study local circum-
stances and proceed accordingly. I have tried
the plan of keeping the borders constantly
moist and the roots liberally fed during the
ripening period, but that alone did not stop the
wholesale cracking of the berries on the first
dull muggy day we had, after colouring had well
commenced. Keeping the borders very dry, or
to the extent of causing adjoining Vines to flag
from want of water was no remedy at all, but
on the contrary the check thus given to the en-
largement of the berries predisposed them to
cracking directly either the borders were
watered or the atmosphere of the house became
highly charged with moisture. It appears to
me that the skins of the berries are either
peculiarly tender, or they are more porous
than those of most other Grapes, as I have
not the slightest doubt now that it is owing
to the excess of moisture passing through
the skins and uniting with that already there
that the expansion and consequent splitting
take place. Directly I admitted the correctness
of this theory, that is to say the principle of
osmosis, my troubles as regards the cracking of
Madresfield were practically at an end. Keep
up a good circulation of warm dry air and there
will be no splitting of berries. In low-lying
positions and where the sub-soil of the district
generally is of a retentive clayey nature, there
is far more moisture in the atmosphere than is
the case on higher ground and where there is a
gravel or chalky sub-soil. If I am correct in
these conclusions, then the Madresfield Court
is not a good Grape for low-lying positions, for
mixed vineries, or for unheated structures
generally. There are times when fire-heat is

absolutely needed in order to keep up the neces-
sary free circulation of dry air. Free ventila-
tion alone will not always prevent moisture from
accumulating on the berries, and once they are
dewed over it is a case of good-bye to the greater
portion of the crop. It is also of importance
that low night temperatures be avoided while the
berries are stoning, and later on while yet
green, as these may lead to wholesale scalding.
Warmth in the hot-water pipes, with a little
top air on all night, is the best preventive of
scalding ; and warmth in the hot-water pipes,
with both front and top ventilators open a little
way all night long and somewhat widely in the
daytime, is the surest preventive of cracking.
A sudden rise in the temperature — owing to a
change from dull, cloudy weather to an outburst
of sunshine — must be guarded against.

When the Madresfield Court has a house
wholly given up to it there is really no excuse
to be urged by those in charge for the loss of
many berries by cracking, but in mixed houses
the case is different. An extra free circulation
of air admitted while yet the berries of any va-
rieties of Grape are swelling fast tends to check
this progress, the largest berries being had with
the aid of a more or less moist atmosphere, and
which does not cause all alike to crack badly.
That is one reason why I gave it as my opinion
that Madresfield Court is not suitable, as a rule,
for mixed houses. Even if it can be prevented
from cracking in a fairly moist atmosphere the
extra gain in size of berries does not often com-
pensate for the loss of colour. How often are
those very fine berries coloured right up to the
foot-stalks? Very rarely, if ever. Madresfield
Court, as most often seen, is nearly green at and
about the foot-stalks of the berries, and is certain
to be so unless abuudance of air is given almost
constantly from the time colouring commences.
As it happens, what is a remedy for cracking is
also favourable to perfect colouring, and those
who would have this noble Grape at its best
and cannot afford to give a house wholly up to
it, will do well to plant it at the outside end of
a compartment, so as to be able to give it air
very freely without subjecting the other va-
rieties to more of it than desirable. With me
it never failed to colour well, and the secret of
it lay in the fact that several squares of glass
were taken out at the ends and half-inch mesh
galvanised wire netting substituted. Some
of these openings were made exactly opposite
bunches, and there was no mistake about these
being the luost perfectly coloured and carrying
the best bloom. There was no green to be seen
in the berries after they were once ripe, and if
they were smaller than desirable they did not
present a somewhat polished appearance, but,
on the contrary, carried a thick bloom.

W. I.

Apricots. — Apricots are not fruiting in our
garden (South Bucks) this year. The bloom was
somewhat thin and the trees have not set more
than half a crop. Last year's crop was a heavy
one ; the trees also made good and healthy growth,
but probably it was not sufficiently ripened to pro-
duce a full complement of fruit buds and blossom
this season, although other wall trees — Plums,
Peaches and Nectarines — in the same garden give
promise of abundant crops. — C.

Strawberry Noble. — I very much question if
any variety of Strawberry has given a better re-
turn than Noble. I quite agree with " E. M."
(p. 329) as to its cropping qualities and its value
when lifted. The value of Noble is its robust
habit. In forcing as " E. M." advises it is neces-
sary to do it slowly to get the best results, as if
at all hurried Noble fails to set its flowers, but if
given time it answers admirably. A large grower
near me allows his plants to remain out till the

end of February after layering as described
(p. 329), lifting them carefully, potting up and
standing under a north wall for a month. He
then forces in a cool house and supplies the
market just at a season the forced fruits are
over, getting a very good return and at a small
amount of labour. I note it is still much em-
ployed by hybridisers, it's bold habit and free
growth making it valuable in this respect. — W.

FRUIT PROSPECTS IN MAY.
A LENGTHY run through East Anglia and some
other counties enables me to give a pleasing
account of our fruit trees and bushes in bloom.
The season within the last few weeks has ad-
vanced by leaps and bounds. Little more than a
month ago most people were accepting a late
season as a matter of course, but April showers
and other causes have already put the growth
and flowers of the year abreast of the calendar.
So early as the first week in May most of the
fruit trees were already out of blossom, and the
glorious ten days of May sunshine have done much
to set the fruit of Plums, Pears, Cherries, as well
as to foster Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots on
walls to abnormal size and earliness. The Apple
blossom, now in full glory of purple and white,
has been the crowning glory of May. Next to
the Apple blooms, Cherries have been the most
profuse in flower, and all, with the exception of
May Dukes, seem setting and swelling fairly well.
I rind that the May Dukes have neither been
blighted nor frozen, but picked off. The birds
prefer these in bloom to Black or White Hearts
or any other Cherries. In not a few localities,
too, Cherries this season came into bloom rather
before their time. The order of blooming may
generally be stated thus: Black Thorns or Sloes,
Damsons, Gages, and other Plums, Cherries,
Pears, Apples. This season Cherries were ahead
of Damsons and Gages.

Plums of all sorts also showed some striking
peculiarities in blooming this year. As a rule the
blossom comes well abreast of the foliage. The
bloom is so profuse and plentiful, that there is
nothing else, no green visible. Those who
watched for this whitening over of their Plum
gardens and orchards this year were disappointed.
Throughout the spring so far their trees have
been green, not white. This arose, however, less
from the paucity of flowers than the time of blos-
soming, for this season the growths of Plums
were a week or more ahead of the blooms. Hence
in most of the orchards I have seen there are
Plums enough for an average yield. The brilliant
sunshine during the first fortnight of May has
also made short work of the setting of most of our
fruit crops. The longer and wider my experience
among fruits, the deeper my conviction that a
rapid set is the most favourable to the free
swelling and perfect finish of our crops. With a
sunny May up to the 15th or 20th there will be
a good set of Apples throughout the southern,
midland and eastern counties, and seldom has
there been a more magnificent blossoming, never
a finer, cleaner, earlier growth of foliage.

D. T. F.

Thinning Grapes for exhibition. — Al-
though Crape-thinning always demands great
care, yet when the bunches are intended for ex-
hibition more precision is requisite. We often
see the shoulders of bunches at shows in a loose,
irregular condition, entirely spoiling the general
appearance of the bunches. In many instances
too many berries are taken out from the upper
portion of the shoulders, causing them to fall
about when placed on the board. As a rule very
few berries should be removed from the tops of
the shoulders, the berries beneath will push them
up as swelling goes on. More shoulder-thinning
is needed with some free-setting varieties, but
even with these discretion is necessary if exhibit-
ing is intended. — J. C.

Apple King of the Pippins. — This well de-
serves the note at p. 310 by " W. G. C." and the

366

THE GAKDEN

[Mat 25, 1895.

praise he bestows upon it. I am sure, taking
everything into consideration, it may be classed
as the best all-round dessert variety grown.
"W. G. C." rightly places it second to Cox's
Orange and Ribston. I have never failed to fruit
the King in this part of the country, and in the
north it was the most reliable kind. In the west
of England it was simply grand ; the tree was not
only most prolific, but the fruit was of very good
quality. The illustration at p. 310 hardly does it
justice when grown in a good loam. Those who
have not included this variety in their collections
certainly lose a quantity of good fruit, as the King
often fruits when all others fail. Few varieties
are more reliable and the fruit keeps a long time.
— G. Wythes, Syon House.

Trees and Shrubs.

THE WISTARIA.

The Wistaria is again flowering with its usual
profusion, not having suffered in the slightest
degree from the extreme cold, which accentuates
its worth as a garden climber. There
is plenty of good specimens about,
but it is a pity that people do not
plant it even more freely and in varied
ways as suggested above. The ex-
ceeding beauty of old specimens is
surely worth striving after, and al-
though they represent many years of
growth, it is a fast growing plant,
and we have not long to wait before
getting some flowers in return if we
plant it under favourable conditions
in free light soil. In exposed places
the flowers of Wistaria are sometimes
injured before expansion by late spring
frosts, but in favourable years they
escape, and then the Wistarias are
seen to the best advantage, as, in ad-
elition to the blooms, the freshly
expanded foliage is thus, in common
with that of all outdoor trees and
shrubs, very fine. The Wistaria is
generally treated as a wall plant, but
it has also a beautiful and pic-
turesque appearance when so situ-
ated that its vigorous branches can
ramble into the head of a neighbour-
ing tree. If planted with this inten-
tion, a mistake too often made should
be avoided — viz., that of planting the
climber too closely to the tree which
is intended as its support, for if
planted close to the trunk of an
established specimen the new-comer
is simply starved to death. The
Wistarias, too, are well suited for
arbours, and a large specimen just supported
by a framework of some kind forms a beau-
tiful object on a lawn. Though one seldom
meets with any Wistaria except the Chinese
form, there are several others, one or two of
which are perhaps worthy of being planted
to a greater extent than at present, but as they
are of far more recent introduction than the
one above mentioned, the plants are small, and,
consequently, cannot be compared with those
of the older species. A promising variety is
the white-flowered form of the Chinese Wistaria
(W. sinensis alba), which appears to be a
counterpart of the type, except that the flowers
are pure white. A very pretty effect might be
produced by planting this and the ordinary form
in such close proximity to each other that as
they grew up the branches of the two would
intertwine one with the other.

has an agreeable perfume. Apart from any of
these considerations, however, it is well worth
planting as an ornamental tree, for it forms a
roundecl head whose slender shoots are clothed
with ovate leaves of a pleasing shade of rather
pale green. The flowers, which are pure white,
are small and borne in rounded racemes. They
are so numerous that a good example is when at
its best quite a mass of white, and this is, as a
rule, towards the end of April or early in May.
Though the typical kind is remarkable for its
graceful style of growth, there is a variety — pen-
dula — which is much more so. In this all the
minor shoots have cpiite a drooping tendency. It
is not, of course, as weeping as some other trees,
but the shoots are just sufficiently drooping to
impart a grace and elegance to the entire tree.
Though it will attain the dimensions of a tree,
Cerasus Mahaleb will often form a densely-
branched shrub-like specimen. One great point
in favour of it is that it will succeed in dry, sandy
or stony soils better than most subjects, and this,
combined with its graceful habit and profusion of
bloom, should render it worthy of more notice
than has hitherto been bestowed upon it. The

as a rule retains its colour throughout the season,
unless red spider attacks the foliage, which some-
times happens during a hot summer, or very
fierce sunshine is apt to scorch the leaves. The
pale pinkish flowers of this variety are inferior
to those of many other garden forms. Spirsea
opulifolia aurea is less in stature than the normal
form, while it is one of those shrubs that lose a
good deal of their colouring as the season advances.
It is wonderfully pretty quite early in the spring,
just as the young leaves are unfolding. Then the
warm brown branches are studded with golden
tufts of partially expanded foliage, which at a
little distance look like yellow blossoms. The
golden-leaved form of the Mock Orange (Phila-
delphus) is a pretty shrub, less rich in colour, it is
true, than some others, but still well worth plant-
ing ; it does not attain the dimensions of the
common kind. Cornus Spathi, which has within
the last three or four years attracted more atten-
tion than any other golden-leaved shrub, is cer-
tainly one of the best of that tint that we have
in our gardens. The leaves, which when expand-
ing are tinged with bronze, become of a clear
golden hue, except an irregular-shaped blotch of

Wistaria over a balcony.

Mahaleb Cherry is indigenous to the greater
part of Europe, particularly in the mountainous
parts of France and Switzerland, and in a wild
state it varies, according to the position in which
it occurs, from a tree to quite a bush. According
to Loudon, it was introduced into this country in
1714. By the Kew authorities the generic name
of Cerasus has been superseded by that of Prunus,
so it must now be referred to this genus. — T.

Cerasus Mahaleb.— The wood of this is much
sought after for cabinet work, as it is very hard
and takes a good polish, and in addition to this it

GOLDEN-LEAVED SHRUBS.
While several of our golden-leaved shrubs are
very beautiful just now, they do not all retain the
yellow tint throughout the entire season. A par-
ticular instance of this is to be found in the
dwarf-growing Ribes alpinum pumilum aureum,
the leaves of which when first expanded are of a
beautiful golden tint, but by midsummer a great
deal of its characteristic colouring has gone and the
leaves soon become quite green. The golden -
leaved Elder, on the other hand, is at its best
during the hot days of July and August, especially
if it is in a position fully exposed to the sun and
in not too rich a soil. Weigela Looysmani aurea

green in the centre. Ligustrum ovalifolium
elegantissimum is a beautiful golden Privet, whose
style of marking is in much the same way as that
of the Cornus just mentioned. The Privet is,
however, almost if not quite evergreen, so that
its season of beauty is spread over a longer period
than that of the other. It is sometimes used for
winter bedding, and if the weather is mild it is
very effective. Ptelea trifoliata aurea is a variety
of this distinct shrub with golden foliage, and
there is also a form of the Hazel (Corylus Avel-
lana) of the same tint. Several of our trees have
varieties remarkable for their golden foliage,
notably an Oak— Concordia, rich in colour ; a va-
riety of the False Acacia— aurea, of a pale greenish
yellow ; the Golden Alder, a grand subject for
the water-side ; two or three varieties of our
native Elm, a form of the Laburnum, golden both
in flower and leaf; and Catalpa aurea, whose
leaves are larger than those of any other shrub or
tree mentioned above. H. P.

Kalmia plauca. — Few, I think, will be found
to agree with Mr. Webster in his book, "Hardy

May 25, 1895.J

THE GARDEN.

367

Ornamental Flowering Trees and Shrubs," in his
opinion of this Kalmia, for he says, " This, which
has lilac-purple flowers produced in early spring,
is not a very desirable species, being rather strag-
gling in growth and with few flowers." That is
certainly not the estimate in which it is held by
many, for it is at all events regarded by some as
among the most desirable of low-growing shrubs
that bloom as a rule in the early part of May.
The general habit of Kalmia glauca is to form a
little compact shrub from 1 foot to "2 feet in
height, clothed with neat foliage, glaucous on the
under sides, while the pretty purplish pink blos-
soms are borno in such profusion that when at its
best the entire plant is quite a mass of bloom. A
bed planted with this Kalmia forms a remarkably
bright and effective spring feature, and as a suc-
cession to it we have Kalmia angustifolia, a
rather upright-growing species that is as a rule
under a couple of feet in height. The flowers of
this are of a deeper tint than those of the preced-
ing, while there is a variety — rubra— darker still.
The last to bloom is the larger growing Mountain
Laurel (Kalmia latifolin), which is well worthy of
association with the numerous beautiful garden
varieties of Rhododendions. All of the Kalmias
can be forced into bloom, but they must be
brought on gently, as if too much heat is used the
blossoms fail to open in a satisfactory manner.

SHORT NOTES. — TREES AND SHRUBS.

Siberian Crab ( Pyrus prunifolia). — By far the
finest object in flower in > he garden here at the present
time is a tree 30 feet high, having a branch-spread of
40 feet, of the cotum' h Siberian Crab. The tree is
standing upon Grass, its lower branches sweeping the
turf. Before the blooms are fully developed the
delicately pink-tinted 1 uds present a pretty tight. —
E. M.

Kerria japoniea fl. -pi. —Never have I seen
this deciduous shrub flowering in such profusion as at
the present lime. In this neighbourhood there is
hardly a cottage garden hut can boast of a plant
or two. In s me instances it is planted at the
foot of a south wall. The warmth of such a sunny
position appears to suit its requirements to a nicety.
Trained loosely to the wall it produces a charming
effect when smothered with its rosette-like blossoms
of a rich trange colour. — E. It., Bishop's Waltham.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY

TEMPLE SHOW".

May 21, 22, 23.

Another Tern pie show, to use the definition mostly
expressed, has been held, and it has proved to be
fully equal to its predecessors, if not in some
respects the finest yet seen. The arrangement was
varied, and that with decidedly better convenience
than at previous shows. The first three marquees
usually stood on a lower level and on grass, mak-
ing it somewhat unpleasant should the weather
prove unfavourable. On this occasion they were
ranged along the broad gravel walk on a higher
plateau nearer the Thames Embankment, thus
affording quite a dry promenade. The overflow
tent for Orchids and the choicer exotics was placed
parallel with the foregoing in about the same posi-
tion as previou.-ly, whilst the monster marquee,
now a proverbial figure in these gatherings,
was at right angles with it and in its usual spot.
By this arrangement of the tents the space at dis-
posal for an outside promenade was much extended,
thus creating another improvement; whilst yet
another was evident in the connecting canvas awn-
ings between one tent and another, so that the
entire show could be inspected without going out-
side should the weather prove to be wet. The
entire arrangement reflected the greatest credit
on the executive of the R. H.S., whose marquees,
it should be stated, could easily have been filled,

entries being refused, reduced and restricted
simply from want of space whereon to stage
them. Considering that it is not an ordinary
exhibition where prizes are offered and won, its
success year by year speaks well for the enthu-
siasm evinced in horticultur-3 around and beyond
the metropolis. A few well-known exhibitors
were conspicuous by their absence, but this was
not felt in such an extensive display as one might
expect.

The first marquee on entering the grounds was
chiefly devoted to cut flowers and floral decora-
tions, the latter showing a marked advance in
quantity, whilst the quality was fully maintained.
Notable here were the unique displays of Messrs.
Perkins and Son and those of Mr. Chard, the
foi mer of most rechercht! character, the latter some-
what light and airy. Messrs. B. S. Williams and
Son and other fresh exhibitors entered in this
section for the first time with most praiseworthy
produce. Other exhibits in this tent comprised
choice selections of vegetables, notably salading
from Messrs. J. Carter and Co., excellent
vegetables from Mr. Wythes and other well known
growers, fruit from the same and other sources,
also the florists Tulips in the competitive classes,
which were shown well. In the second tent
were to be found several specially good exhibits,
most prominent amongst which was the com-
prehensive one from Messrs. Sutton and Sons, who
have never before staged so fine an exhibitdemon-
strativeof practicalgardening. Of very special note
here were the several kinds of early Peas in pots,
finely grown, also of Tomatoes heavily fruited,
with other fine produce. Carnations, Cannas,
cut flowers and Ferns from other sources filled this
tent. The third marquee in this line comprised
a very prominent exhibit of Filmy and other
Feme, also of alpine plants on rockwork, a
very instructive and suggestive method of
staging. Another grand display in this tent
was that of Messrs. Veitch and Sons, who staged
a fine assortment of Streptocarpi, including the
newS. gratus hybrids, which are a coming race in
this genus. With these were their new hybrid
Cacti, Ferns of the best kinds and Gloxinias,
other exhibits comprising cut flowers in quantity.
Next in order came another Orchid tent, itself
far beyond the average of 6uch erections ; this
wae filled to overflowing with choice collections of
Orchids from such well-known exhibitors, growers,
and importers as Messrs. H. Low and Co., Messrs.
Charlesworth and Co., and Mr. .las. Cypher, all
of whom on this occasion may fairly be said to
have excelled themselves. Smaller collections
came from Messrs. W. L. Lewis and Co., South-
gate, and others. Acers in choice vars. came
from Messrs. Fromow, a pretty exhibit. Rose3
were here staged by Mr. F. Cant and Messrs.
Jackman, also Calceolarias by Messrs. James
and Son. This tent also contained a most note-
worthy exhibit in the new and rare plants staged
by Messrs. F. Sander and Co. ; prominent amongst
which were new Dracaenas, one quite a unique
species, viz., D. Godseftiana ; also of dwarf grow-
ing, richly coloured variegated Begonias, and of
Heliconias resplendent in colouring. Grandly
grown Sarracenias were included here also.
Pelargoniums from Slough and elsewhere in a
blaze of bloom helped to enliven one end, as did
that splendid exhibit of cultural skill to be seen in
the immense bank of Leschenaultia biloba major
in perfect condition and profusion of flower from
the now well-known growers of this fine old hard-
wooded plant, Messrs. W. Balchin and Sons,
Hassocks, Sussex, with which were included
equally good examples of Boronia serrulata.
Begonias, too, of the tuberous section were
staged in this tent, making a magnificent display,
both Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons and Mr. Thos.
S. Ware contributing large and splendid groups,
high class culture being evinced in each instance.
On entering the large marquee the first group to
attract notice is a superb display of Malmaison
Carnations from Mr. Jennings, gardener to Mr.
Leopold de Rothschild, who has previously shown
these in very fine condition, but never better than
on this occasion. Orchids and Roses were the two

prominent features in this tent, the former fully
maintaining their position, whilst the latter were
never seen in finer condition before, those noted
growers Mr. Chas. Turner, Messrs. W. Paul and
Son, and Messrs. Paul and Son vieing with each
other in their respective groups. Most noteworthy
of all the Roses shown were the superbly-flowered
plants of Crimson Rambler from Slough, staged
in diversified forms of training. Splendid groups
of hardy-flowering trees and shrubs (a unique dis-
play) and of Caladiums came from Messrs. J.
Veitch and Sons, another of the latter, also excel-
lent, being contributed by Messrs. Peed and Son.
Clematises from Messrs. R. Smith and Co., Wor-
cester, added to the display in this tent, as did
the two suggestive decorative groups of Mr.
Iceton and NIessrs. Wills and Segar, which com-
petitive exhibitors would do well to imitate.

Orchids.

Sir Trevor Lawrence, as usual, had a magnifi-
cent exhibit, in which there was a great variety
of choice things. Masdevallias were in strong
force, comprising M. Harryana Denisoniana, very
rich in colour; M. Mundyana, of a deep orange
shade, very distinct ; M. Veitchiana, extra fine ;
M. Geleniana, of dwarf growth ; and M. Harryana
miniata, an intensely deep scarlet. Of Odonto-
glots there were also several choice varieties,
particularly of O. crispum and 0. Pescatorei.
O. vexillarium was also included. A most note-
worthy exhibit in this group was a very fine
mass of Ana-ctochilus in most luxuriant health.
Other exhibits in this group comprised Cattleya
Mossiaj and C. Mendeli, both in good character.
C. Schilleriana is rarely seen so healthy. Ladia
purpurata was represented by some grand va-
rieties. Of Cypripediums there was a grand ex-
ample of C. Stonei platyta'nium bearing two spikes
each with as many blooms of extra size and finely
coloured, the petals broad and well marked, with
both the upper and lower sepals of equally fine
proportions; this plant was a centre of attraction.
Other good varieties of Cypripediums included
C. calanthum showing its affinity to C. Liwi ; C.
Hookene volonteanum, extra good ; C. barbatum;
C. Lawrenceanum ; C. Lawrebel, specially tine; C.
superciliare and ('. Swannianum superbum. Dec-
drobium Bensome, with two dense racemes, was
very fine; Vanda suavis, a dwarf plant with a
good spike; Oncidiura Rogersi, with two dense
spikes; Epidendrum Stamfordianum, a grand
specimen in the fineet possible condition, covered
with dense spikes of bloom ; Dendrobium revolu-
tum, a small species of singular growth; Oncidium
macranthum, dark in colour ; Vanda tricolor, with
four spikes; and Epidendrum radicans, well-
flowered, were also shown. A well-bloomed
Calanthe veratrifolia was also included, as well
as Microstylis macrochila, a singular Orchid of
dwarf growth.

Baron Schroder, The Dell, Egham, occupied
his usual post next to Sir Trevor Lawrence on and
at one end of the centre stage in the large mar-
quee, his collection being fully up to the standard
of past years, the whole group forming a wealth
of floral beauty. Of specimen examples there was
a grand mass of Ada aurantiaca, finer by far than
it has been previously seen, being one mass of
flower-spikes. Of Cattleya Skinnen there was also
a fine specimen, with nine dense spikes of richly-
coloured flowers. Odontoglossums were in strong
force, O. crispum apiatum (the variety beyond
compare) being present, the stout spikes carrying
fourteen flowers and buds of large proportions.
O. excellens bore a stout, dense spike, the flowers
richly coloured. O. Wilckeanum giganteum bore
a gigantic spike of unusually large flowers, the
ground colour creamy white, the dark chocolate
spots being in marked contrast. The flowers of
this Odontoglot are fully 5 inches across. O. cris-
pum xanthotes, the pure white variety, with
golden spots, a charming form ; O. crispum in
choice varieties ; O. luteo-purpureum, very dark
in colour ; 0. vexillarium, a specially rich form
in point of colour ; and O. nebulosum, a most
beautiful variety, were also shown. Cypripedium
larvigatum Riebelini, a very choice form, had four

368

THE GARDEN.

[May 25, 1895.

spikes ; Masdevallia Veitchiana grandiflora was
shown extremely tine, the flowers of unusual size
and colour ; Lselia purpurata was present in
very choice varieties, notably L. purpurata Sehrce-
derse delicata, a lovely form. Another gem was
to be seen in La-lioCattleya Hippolyte of deep
colouring. Amongst other choice things were
Cypripedium Sanderianum, with long tail like
appendages ; and a grand plant of Masdevallia
nycterina, one of the most beautiful of the dwarf
varieties with about three hundred blossoms.

Mr. S. Ellis, Hazelbourne, Dorking, staged a
splendidly grown group of Odontoglossum cris-
pum in the choicest vais., notably the light forms,
which with the following constituted a most at-
tractive exhibit : 0. Pescatorei in beautiful con-
dition, O. citrosmum, 0. luteo-purpureum, a fine
spike; O. ramosissimum, a charming small va-
riety, very elegant ; 0. cordatum, 0. Coradinei, a
fine plant with five spikes ; and O. polyxanthum,
extremely fine, a well marked form, the group as
a whole looking most attractive.

From Earl Percy's collection at Syon House
Mr. Wythes staged a thoroughly representative
group of the best Orchids now in season, contain-
ing a great number of varieties and fewerduplicates
than some exhibits. Vanda teres was here shown
well, the plants extremely healthy. Cymbidium
Lowi was in its best forms, several spikes carrying
over twenty flowers, one form being specially
good, with the crimson of the lip of a deep shade.
La-lia purpurata was present in the best varieties,
the flowers of large size, one white variety being
extra fine. Cattleya Mossia? was here shown well ;
so also was C. Mendeli, as well as C. Skinneri.
Dendrobium thyrsiflorum in this group was spe-
cially good, beaiing long dense racemes. Odon-
toglossum citrosmum, O. vexillarium, O cor-
datum, and Dendrobium suavissimum were all
good.

From Mr. S. Cooke came a small exhibit which
comprised capital forms of Odontoglossum Alex-
andra- (crispum), O. Ruckerianum, O. nebulosum,
O. Lindleyanum maculatum, O. Coradinei, O.
cordatum, and 0. Pescatorei.

Messrs. F. Sander and Co. as usual staged a
magnificent group, occupying a greater space
with Oichids alone than any other exhibitor. Of
Oncidium sphacelatum there was agrand specimen,
forming a fine feature. Odontoglossum vexillarium
was staged in large numbers, both light and dark
forms, the plants in the best of health. Varieties of
Microstylis, in several very singular species, were
shown in a pan by themselves. Dendrobium
Auguste Victoria?, a tall-growing species, with
long spikes of light-coloured flowers, a beautiful
variety ; La-lio- Cattleya Phube, a charming hybrid
in the way of L.-C. Hippolyte, with the sepals
and petals of a lighter shade of orange, a choice
plant ; Odontoglossum crispum Duchess of York,
a pure white form, with pale gold markings on the
lip ; Cattleya Lawrenceana, of specially deep tint ;
Odontoglossum prionopetalum album, a distinct
form, with the ground colour pure white ; Catt-
leya Mendeli, specially fine, the colouring of the
lip an intensely deep crimson-purple, a very fine
form ; and Cymbidium Lowianum, an immense
specimen, were also shown. Cattleya Skinneri,
well-flowered ; Aerides expansum, a very healthy
plant with a long spike of flowers ; Bras-
savola Digbyana, rarely seen, singularly beau-
tiful ; Cattleya Mossia? Wageneri, a beautiful
example ; Cypripedium Lawrenceanum, with a
number of fine blooms ; Odontoglossum polyxan-
thum, bearing two stout spikes, very handsome ;
La?lia purpurata alba, with large, pure white
flowers, the lip deep purple ; Maxillaria Sanderi-
ana, a sturdy plant, were also included with
several other choice varieties and species. Cattleya
Mossia- Prince of Wales, a specially fine form with
the lip of unusual breadth ; L. purpurata Princess
of Wales, a distinctly beautiful white form ;
Spathoglottis aurea, very bright ; Sobralia Veitchi
(St. Albans variety), Phaius Owenianus, a dwarf
hybrid of rich colour ; Oncidium phymatochilum,
a beautiful and very light species ; and Cattleya
dolosa, a charming species with soft pink sepals
and petals, a gem, showing a considerable varia-

tion in colouring, were here to be seen. Of
Cypripedium Chamberlainianum there was a grand
mass, bearing a dozen or more flowers, and of
Cattleya Mossia; a fine specimen was staged.

Mr. J. G. Fowler, Glebelands, Woodford, had a
choice group, in the centre of which was a fine ex-
ample of Epidendrum Wallisi, to which a cultural
commendation was awarded. The tops of the
bulbs were wreathed in blossom, the rich golden
shade of which was particularly striking ; Catt-
leyas were a strong feature in this group.
Cypripedium Chamberlainianum was also spe-
cially good. Phala>nopsis amabiliswas here shown
well. Odontoglossum crispum was staged well,
the plants very vigorous and the spikes corre-
spondingly so, whilst the varieties were of the
best. Dendrobium cretaceum, not often seen,
was shown here ; also Oncidium Lanceanum
of rich colour ; Odontoglossum polyxanthum and
Odontoglossum cordatum were both in good order ;
whilst of Cypripedium bellatulum, a very fine
variety of dark markings was present, and of C.
Lawrenceanum a good specimen was staged. Of
quite rare forms were Cypripedium Lawrenceanum
flyeanum specially fine, the dorsal sepal being of
the purest white and deep green ; and Cattleya
Mossia? (Fowler's var. ), void of the purplish crim-
son lip, this giving place to pale gold and lilac.

Sir F. Wigan, Clare Lawn, East Sheen, had a
small but recherche group. Cypripedium Roth-
schildianum was shown here extremely fine ; so
also was C. Lawrenceanum. Cattleya Mendeli was
present in the choicest varieties, specially so in
one or two instances. CattleyaMossia? Lady Wigan,
a delicately beautiful variety, stood out promi-
nently, as did a fine plant of Vanda suavis, bear-
ing an extra fine spike. Cattleya Schilleriana had
two fine blooms, and Chamberlain's Cypripedium
was shown well. From Mr. Wells, Bromfield,
Sale, came Cattleya Mossia?, of rich colour and
C. hyb. (C. exoniengis x C. Mendeli).

Messrs. B. S. Williams and Son staged a large
group at the opposite end to Messrs. Sander.
This comprised a fine selection, with a profusion
of flowers. Here were to be seen Oncrdium con-
color, a beautiful dwarf, yellow species, well-
flowered ; Odontoglossum crispum in quantity,
specially good, with long, arching spikes ; Cym-
bidium Lowianum, still in good condition ; Litlia
purpurata, with fine blooms ; Ada aurantiaca,
Dendrobium thyrsiflorum ; Maxillaria Sanderiana;
Cypripedium grande ; Vanda suavis, with good
spikes ; Oncidium sarcodes, in good colour and
fine spikes ; Ornithocephalus grandiflorus (the
Lily of the Valley Orchid) ; Calanthe veratrifolia,
with good spikes, very fresh ; Cypripedium
Schrcederse, richly coloured ; Cattleya Skinneri,
good; Odontoglossum polyxanthum; Oncidium
Marshallianum, extra fine, a choice Orchid ; Catt-
leya Mossia?, an extra fine, deeply-coloured form ;
Cypripedium Chamberlainianum, bearing large
blooms; Odontoglossum Harryanum, here noted
for the first time; Vanda Dennisoniana, V. teres,
both excellent, and Brassavola nodosa.

Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heaton, Brad-
ford, staged in the adjoining tent a large and ex-
cellent group, in which Oncidium Marshallianum
and O. macranthum were unusually fine, thespikes
being well flowered and the blossoms large as
well as rich in colour. Odontoglossum cirrhosum,
O. cordatum and O. crispum were all included
here, the latter in quantity and good in quality ;
O. vexillarium and other varieties being also
staged. Cypripedium superciliare and C. Law-
renceanum, with several plants of C. bellatu-
lum, were also to be seen. La-lia cinnabarina
here appeared, also Cymbidium tigrinum, Lalia
purpurata, large plants well-flowered ; Cymbidium
Lowianum ; Cattleya Mossia-, with an extra fine
piece of Dendrobium thyrsiflorum. Odontoglos-
sum crispum in one instance was represented by
a richly-marked form. O. Halli and other species
were also noted. Cypripedium Chamberlainianum
and C. Rothschildianum, the latter extra good in
colour; Oncidium concolor, Ornithocephalus gran-
diflorus, Odontoglossum ramosissimum and other
uncommon kinds were included here.

Messrs. H. Low and Co. staged the best group
they have thus far in their long experience ex-
hibited ; this was resplendent from end to end with
the choicest varieties of Cattleya Mossia?, a
speciality of this firm, who appear to have quite
a monopoly of the best forms. Some grand masses
of this one of the finest of all Cattleyas were shown
here, quite large specimens and in profuse flower.
These forms of Mossia? were thoughout notable for
the breadth and colouring of the labellum, some
of the darkest shades and others of the lightest.
La?lia purpurata was specially good, being pre
sent in great variety of colour. Cypripedium cau-
datum Wallisi, the light form of the type, was also
included. Of Cattleya Reineckiana superbissima
there was a good example. La?lia purpurata En-
fieldiensis had extra large and deeply coloured
blooms.

Mr. Jas. Cypher, Cheltenham, had a grand
group, in which the finest possible culture and
choice varieties were combined in a marked
degree. La?lia purpurata, in its finest possible
varieties, was here a most remarkable feature,
being the very deeply-coloured forms, par-
ticularly good, the purple of the labellum in
several instances of the deepest possible shade.
Other forms with the purest white in the se-
pals and petals were to be noted, all being in
grand health. Cattleya Mossia? and C. Mendeli,
with C. Schilleriana, were also excellent. Odonto-
glossum cordatum of deep colour ; O. crispum, 0.
triumphans, and O. Halli were also staged well,
as also was O. Reichenheimi, a distinct species.
Dendrobium Falconeri appeared here, the only '
instance in the show, two good plants being
staged, both freely flowered. Dendrobium mos-
chatum, not often seen in any show, was found
here with three good spikes. Epidendrum radi-
cans, extra fine and profusely flowered ; Phala?nop-
sis speciosa, a good spike ; Dendrobium Dearei ;
Oncidium concolor; Sophronitis grandiflora, extra
good ; Saccolabium ampullaceum ; and Odonto-
glossum maculatum were staged. Of Oncidium
varicosum there was a very fine plant bearing a
strong spike. Cypripedium grande atratum, of
extra deep colour, a splendid form of this hybrid,
was shown here.

Messrs. Lewis and Co., Southgate, staged an
attractive group, in which there were several
conspicuously fine forms of Cattleya Mossia? and
C. Mendeli, the former comprising several re-
markable varieties. La?lia purpurata here was
again very good. Odontoglosum vexillarium, O.
crispum, O. cirrhosum, and O. citrosmum mag-
nificum, with extra large flowers, were all in-
cluded. Oncidium ampliatum majus, O. corni-
gerum, and other species were staged here. Cy-
pripedium caudatum ; Chysis bractescens ; Odon-
toglossum Pescatorei, an extra fine branching
spike, densely flowered ; and the old Dendrobium
Pierardi were all in fine character.

Messrs. Backhouse and Sons showed a beautiful
assortment of Odontoglossum crispum mixed with
small, well-grown plants of Gleicheniasin variety,
the two producing a beautiful effect.

Roses.
These were one of the features of the show, the
best display being made by Messrs. W. Paul and
Son, of Waltham Cross, whose fine group com-
prised the best varieties in nearly all sections, in
standard and dwarf plants. Among the former
we noted W. A. Richardson, Mme. Chedane
Guinoisseau, Claire Jacquier, a fine pyramid of
flowers, Corinna, Mme. de Watteville, Bouquet
d'Or, Mrs. John Laing, Niphetos, and Perle des
Jardins. The effect of these mixed with dwarf
plants is greatly superior to that of the old banks
of specimen plants that used to be shown. In
dwarfs, the following were all noteworthy for an
abundance of fine flowers : Violette Bouyer, White
Lady, Gustave Piganeau, Caroline Testout, Ella
Gordon, Danmark, Victor Hugo, Star of Waltham,
Mme. Fanny de Forest, a free and little-known
white Rose, Gloire Lyonnaise, Ulrich Brunner,
Queen of Queens, A. K. Williams, Mme. Lacharme
and Mme. Montet. Cut Roses in quantity made
a margin to the group — Gu6tave Regis, l'ldeal,

May 25, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

389

Beauty of Waltham, Queen Mab, Sylph, and Anna
Ollivier in lovely colour, all admirable. Messrs.
Charles Turner and Son, of Slough, also had
a very fine group of Roses, showing immense, pro-
fusely-flowered specimens of some of the older
kinds, as Comtesse de Serenye, Juno, a pretty
bright pink kind, and Mme. Lacharme. Other
good kinds in standard and dwarf plants were
Mrs. John Laing, Camille Bernardin, Mrs. Paul,
Margaret Dickson, La France, Celine Forestier,
Marechal Niel, Edith Gifford, Souvenir de S. A.
Prince, with many plants of Crimson Rambler
covered with bright clusters of flowers. Messrs
Paul and Son, also exhibited Roses largely, some
of their specimens of fine size, but wanting a little
more time to develop their flowers. The best
were Paul's Early Blush, William Warden, La
France, with Elise Fugier and Souvenir de S. A.
Prince among Teas, and Crimson Rambler and
Paul's Single Carmine, in full flower. Messrs.
Jackman and Sons, of Woking, showed Roses in
fine form, including specimen plants of some of the
oldest and sweetest kinds covered with flowers.
The best were Mme. Lacharme, Celine Forestier,
Anna Alexieff, Duchesse de Morny, Comtesse de
Serenye, John Hopper, and Alfred Colomb, all
sweet and welcome. Mr. F. Cant, of Colchester,
showed pot Roses well in smaller plants, but the in-
dividual flowers of high quality, especially in the
varieties Mrs. Paul, Merveille de Lyon, Caroline
Testout, Ulrich Brunner, Margaret Dickson,
Marchioness of Londonderry, with the Teas
Niphetos and Souvenir d'un Ami, the group edged
with the pretty little Polyanthas Little Dot and
Anna Maria de Montravel. Mr. W. Rumsey,
Waltham Cross, showed Roses largely, his best
being Heinrich Schultheis, large bright rose,
Magna Charta, Celine Forestier, Mme. Gabriel
Luizet, Souvenir de S. A. Prince, with cut flowers
in quantity of Marechal Niel and Niphetos. Mr.
G. Mount, of Canterbury, showed cut Roses, but
varied the conventional method by setting up the
flowers in alternative boxes on a much greater
length of stem. It involves tho sacrifice of some
wood, but the result is a great gain artistically.
The varieties set up in this charming way were
Catherine Mermet and Mme. Gabriel Luizet.
Other H.P.'s and Teas were well shown by the
same exhibitor.

Stove and Greenhocse Plants.

Messrs. Sander and Co., St. Albans, had a group
of new and rare plants, some of striking beauty,
including Sarracenia flava and S. flava picta, re-
presented by two very fine specimens ; Darlingtonia
californica, large and well grown ; Arisaema fim-
briatum, with grey and purple spathe and a curious
long drooping spadix, fringed with dark hairs ; Dra-
caena Godsefhana, a distinct and beautiful species,
quite unlike any other kind, of tall, branching
growth, with long pinnate leaves, the leaflets ovate
and green, prefusely mottled with pale yellow ;
Eriocnema Sandera', with large, broad, corrugated
leaves of a deep olive-green colour, shaded with
brown and covered with hairs, silvery lines follow-
ing the venation of the leaf ; and Heliconia illus-
tris rubricaulis, magnificent in its colour of stem
and leaf, the leaf-stalks red, the blades reddish

?reen, spotted and veined in an indescribable way.
n habit of growth this Heliconia resembles a
Canna, but in leaf beauty it is one of the most re-
markable introductions of recent years. Dracaena
Sanderiana, with white and green striped leaves
and of tall, graceful growth ; Maranta Sanderiana,
broad, deep green leaves, with light-coloured
stripes; Bentinckia Nicobarica, a handsome new
and quite distinct Palm ; Hfemanthus Kalbreyeri,
the true form, with crimson flowers ; Asparagus
albanensis, a light, graceful variety ; Anthurium
albanense, with deep-coloured spathes ; Sonerilas
in variety and Begonia Rex were noteworthy.
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons showed an extensive
lot of hybrid Streptocarpi in many shades of
colour, from pure white to deep violet-purple, also
another race of hybrids from S. gratus, of quite
distinct character both in leaf growth and flowers.
The main leaf of each plant is long and broad,
whilst the flowers are more numerous in the truss,

and differ in shape and disposition, resembling
those of a Tydaea, whilst they are inclined to be
erect. They embrace soft subdued shades of
colour, too, from light rosy purple to reddish
purple, but are most effective owing to their pro-
fuse bloom. Phyllocactuses, also from Messrs.
Veitch, were charming in new and bright colours,
the best being Agatha, soft blush ; Rowena, deep
crimson ; Gordonianus, light salmon ; Jessica, rose;
Excellent, orange-red. Gloxinias from the same
firm were good, especially Mrs. Donaldson, crimson
self ; Ismene, white with red spots ; and Brilliant,
a most interesting variety, the result of crossing
a Gloxinia and Gesnera pyramidalis, the flowers in
shape resembliDg those of a Gesnera and of a
brilliant crimson colour. Messrs. Sutton and
Sons, of Reading, showed magnificent Calceo-
larias, the plants of large size, profusely bloomed,
the flowers fine and very varied in colour. Special
mention must be made of the variety named Cloth
of Gold, with self flowers of pure rich yellow
colour. Princess of Wales when opening has a
spotted flower, but it also becomes a true self of a
distinct pale salmon shade. Saintpaulia ionan-
tha has never been shown finer than it was on
this occasion by Messrs. Sutton, and we [noticed
some variation in colour from light to deep
violet purple. Their Gloxinias were also first
rate, large flowers in bright clear colours.
Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., of Clapton, had a fine
group, their Caladiums bright in colour— Charle-
magne, with red veins on a white ground ; Mrs.
Harry Veitch, crimson leaf ; and Queen of the
Isles, dark red-veined leaf, margined with white,
with deep green edges, especially distinct. Cannas
in this group were good, the best being Charles
Harrison, self crimson ; Charles van Geert, soft
orange-red ; L. E. Bally, yellow, spotted with
red ; and Alphonse Bouvier. The best group of
Caladiums was that from Messrs. J. Peed and
Sons, the plants being noteworthy for their bright
colours, and many most charming varieties were
shown. Rose Laing, with white leaf, suffused with
pale pink ; John Peed, deep crimson centre, green
edges ; Ibis Rouge, red veins, leaf red and
white ; Ibis Rose, soft delicate rosy colour ;
Raymond Lemoinier, red centre with white
margin ; Michel Buchner, entirely red, were all
first-rate, besides many others that space will not
permit of mentioning. Messrs. J. Veitch and
Sons also had a group of Caladiums, some of the
plants fine specimens with enormous leaves, among
them Gaspard Crayer, Duchess of York, soft red,
Lord Derby, Henry Irving, G. Berger, Mrs. H.
Veitch, and Cardinal specially worthy of note.
Mr. Hunt, gardener to Mr. P. Ralli, Ashtead
Park, also showed a fine group of well-grown
bright-coloured Caladiums, and Mr. W. Icetor
showed a small group. Begonias, always a fea-
ture, were represented by several large groups,
the best being that from Mr. Ware, of Totten-
ham, the arrangement lightened by using a few
small Palms and Ferns, adding to the effect and
somewhat relieving the flatness of this flower
when arranged in a solid bank without other
plants. The doubles and singles were about
equally represented, the best of the doubles being
Maid of Kent, rosy cerise ; Snowdon, white ;
Beauty of Belgrove, salmon-rose ; Duchess of
Teck, pale yellow ; Victory, scarlet ; S. Pope,
cream-white, with Picotee edging of bright
rose ; and White Camellia. The finest singles
were Challenger, crimson; Lord Byron, light red,
white centre ; Zanda, soft cerise ; Violacea, deep
crimson ; Empress of India, rosy red, white centre,
with crimped petals ; and Moravia. Messrs. H.
Cannell and Sons, of Swanley, also had a large
group, the best being Mrs. Phipps, salmon-rose;
Lord Rosebery ; Lady Cook, soft rose ; and Mary
Cannell, bright rose — all double ; and Primrose
Queen, pale primrose ; Miss Clark, white centre,
edged and suffused with red ; and Lady Henry
Grosvenor— all first-rate single kinds. Gloxinias
from the same exhibitor were fine, especially Eva-
tina, with white throat and lavender-blue petals ;
W. Marshall, deep violet-purple ; Prince of Wales,
brilliant crimson"self ; Princess of Wales, red,
edged with white ; and Byblis, pure white.

Cannas in this exhibit were noteworthy, the best
being Due de Mortmart and Mme. Crozy. A well-
arranged group of Begonias was shown by Mr.
H. J. Jones, Ryecroft Nursery, Lewisham, the
kinds single, with fine flowers in telling colours.
Pelargoniums of the decorative class from Mr.
Jones were very good, the plants medium speci-
mens of an informal character and most profusely
bloomed. Some lovely distinct new kinds were
shown that we need not enlarge upon here, and
the same remark applies to the Ivy-leaved va-
rieties. Pelargoniums from Mr. Charles Turner
were shown in large specimens of the usual formal
type, the plants all profusely flowered ; Duke of
Norfolk, red ; Statesman, soft rose, with dark
blotches ; Gold Mine, light scarlet, with white
throat; Lizzie Coombs, Orient and Duchess of
York, among large-flowered varieties, and Lady
Carrington, soft pink ; the Shah and Delicatum in
fancy kinds being a selection of the finest. Mr.
J. Prewett, Hammersmith, showed Pelargonium
Duchess of York, a pretty tricolor-leaved va-
riety, and Pelargonium Glory of the West
from Mr. Godfrey, Exmouth, is a free-flower-
ing decorative variety of cerise-rose colour.
Calceolarias from Mr. James, Woodside, Farnham
Royal, made a telling group, these, like his famous
strain of Cinerarias, being characterised by their
dwarf habit and rich colours. A good group of
flowering and fine-foliaged plants was shown by
Mr. H. B. May, of Edmonton, notable plants being
Adiantum Lambertianum, a fine specimen of this
graceful Maiden- hair ; Asplenium caudatum, with
hanging fronds quite 4 feet in length ; Platy-
cerium grande, a large piece ; Coleus Crimson Gem,
with dark crimson self-coloured leaves, and first
rate Gloxinias in white, purple and crimson shades.
A bouquet of Tropieolum Coolgardie that received
an award of merit at a previous meeting this year
also figured in this group. Messrs. Balchin and
Sons, of Hassocks, showeda beautifulgroup of hard-
wooded plants, the centre of attraction being the
blue Leschenaultia biloba major, whilst Erica
coccinea major, E. perspicua nana, Boronia
heterophylla and B. serrulata were hardly less
attractive, being little grown at the present day.
Mr. W. lceton.of Putney, had a fine group of 1 alms
and Lilium longiflorum, with a pretty margin of
small Dracaenas, Pandanus, Ferns, Ericas, and
Caladiums. Messrs. W. Cutbush and bon,
of Highgate, had a group of Palms, large
Azalea mollis, Hydrangeas, Carnations and
Leschenaultia. An effective group of Palms,
Crotons, Dracanas and Ferns in variety, prettily
margined with Tradescantias, Panicums, 1'it-
tonias and Selaginellas, was also arranged by
Messrs. Wills and Segar. Mr. Jennings, of Ascott
Gardens, Leighton Buzzard, showed a group ot
Malmaison Carnations with flowers of the same
large size and high quality as on former occasions.
Carnation Uriah Pike was represented by twolarge
groups, one from Mr. G. May, of Teddington, and
the other from Mr. J. Pike, of Acton. Mr. Turner
showed a group of specimen Azaleas in profuse
flower, and Messrs. Collins and Gabriel sent plants
of a yellow Carnation. A fine group of Clematises
came from Messrs. R. Smith and Co., of Wor-
cester, the best varieties being Pride of Worcester,
mauve-blue, Madame van Houtte, pure white, and
Lady Caroline Neville in single-flowered kinds, ana
Belle of Woking, double. Messrs. Jackman also
had an interesting lot of their new race of O.
coccinea hybrids, the most distinct being bir
Trevor Lawrence, crimson, Countess of Onslow
which was certificated last year, and Duchess ot
York, pale blush, a lovely kind. A pretty group
of Ferns, Palms and Amaryllises was Ehown by
Mr. Perkins, gardener to the Hon. W. F. D.
Smith, Greenlands, Henley-on-Thames, and Mr.
J T Bennett-Poe showed good specimens ot
Streptosolen Jamesoni. Mr. Empson, gardener
to Mrs. Wingfield, Ampthill House, Beds, showed
Anthurium Andreanum, Dracifna austrahs, a
pretty variegated form, and D. Doucetti, also va-
riefated. Hardy flowering and fine-leaved shrubs
were well shown in a grand group from Messrs.
J Veitch and Sons, many excellent things being
present that space will not permit of enumerating.

370

THE GARDEN.

[May 2."), 18^5.

Messrs. Fromow and Sons, of Chiswick, showed a
fine group of finely-coloured-leaved Maples and
other shrubs. Messrs. W. Paul and Son, of
Waltham Cross, sent an interesting group of shrubs
in which Lilacs were a fine featuro, and Messrs.
J. Che al and Sons, of Crawley, sent an interesting
lot of seasonable shrubs. Rhododendrons in many
choice varieties made a brilliant group shown by
Mr. John Waterer, of Bagshot, and Japanese
Maples in variety were also largely shown. Mr.
J. H. Johnston, Bignor Park, Pulborough, sent
cut specimens of Rhododendrons in variety.

Ferns.
These made a pretty display welcome to turn to
after the gay masses of plants in flower. Messrs.
W. and J. Birkenhead were prominent exhibitors,
with a large and varied group of tender and hardy
sorts. Some distinct Adiantums were A.speciosum,
with long arching handsome fronds, A mono-
chlamys, dwarf and graceful, and A. palmatum, of
erect growth. Davallia fijiensis eleganswas shown
in fine specimens. Hymenodium crinitum is a
curious species, with broad leaves covered with
dark bristles, and Drynaria musiefolia, although a
Fern, has miniature Musa-like leaves, nearly 18
inches long and 4 inches broad. Among hardy
kinds, Osmunda cinnamomea, O. Claytoniana,
and Onoclea sensibilis were good, with crested
and other forms in variety, but considerable
space would be needed to do justice to this com-
prehensive exhibit. Messrs. Backhouse and Sons,
of York, with an interesting exhibit of Film}'
Ferns in cases, deserve commendation for showing
these most chaiming Ferns that command much
admiration, though few grow them. Trichomanes
reniforme was a fine piece ; T. meifolium, grace-
ful, with long fronds ; and T. exsectum, even more
elegant with its finely-cut fronds. Hymenophyl-
lums in variety were also represented by many
large healthy specimens. A good group of hand-
some Ferns was also sent by Messrs. J. Veitch
and Sons, the most noteworthy kinds being
Adiantum Lambertianum, an exceedingly grace-
ful Maiden-hair ; A. Weigandi, with large up-
right, deep green fronds ; A. Legrandi, a fine
plant with close, compact fronds ; and A. macro-
phyllum albo-striatum, in which the pinna- on old
fionds are white-striped, whilst the young fronds
are of a light red tint, most charming in effect.
Other rare, but distinct sorts were Hemionitis cor-
datu, which has an entire heart-shaped pointed
frond ; Scolopendrium sculariforme, of dwarf
growth, the lronds curiously wrinkled on their
edges ; Osmunda japonica corymbifera, a pretty
crested form ; Pteris longifolia Mariesi, most dis-
tinct, with long pinnules; Hymenodium crinitum,
already described ; and Aetiniopteris radiata, with
pinnules like blades of Grass radiating from the
top of the stem.

Hardy and Cut Flowers.
The so took up a great amount of space, and al-
together made a comprehensive display, showing
abundantly the wealth of fine flowers that may be
had in the outdoor garden at the present time.
Mr. T. S. Ware, of Tottenham, had a prominent
group, showing specimens in large pots and pans,
so that the full beauty of the plants and their
growth can be seen. Tree Pieonies, Irises,
bpirseas, Globe Flowers, Phloxes, and hardy Cy-
pripediums were in good form. Messrs. W. Cut-
bush and Son, of Highgate, had a prettily arranged
group of Irises, Pieonies, Heuchera sanguinea,
Globe Flowers, Lupins, and Day Lilies, with a
mossy foreground, in which nestled many little
alpines. Mr. J. R. Box, of Croydon, showed a
nice group, having Heuchera sanguinea in abund-
ance, with Pieonies, Choisya ternata, Iris floren-
tina, Polemoniums, Centaureas, and Spanish
Scillas in large bunches ; also Carnations in
several kinds. Mr. Ladhams, of Southampton,
showed a fine group of characteristic freshness
and variety, 4he best flowers being Aejuilegias in
many foims, Camassias. Aponogeton elistachyon,
Globe Flowers, Lupins, Primula japonica, anel P.
Sieboldi. Messrs. Kelway and Son made a fine
display, Tree Pa.'onies being the chief flower, of
which they showed some lovely new kinds, so

beautiful and important that they will be noted
elsewhere. Iris florentina, I. germanica in va-
riety, Aejuilegia ca'rulea, Pyrethrums, new single
kinds in bright crimson, soft rose, and pure white
colours, and cut spikes of good Cannas completed
this group. Messrs. Barr and Son showed Tulips
in cjuantity of all the late flowering types, single
Pajonies of great beauty, fine garden flowers that
more should grow; Iris germanica in several fine
kinds, Primula Sieboldi in various distinct colours,
and large bunches of Thalictrums, Camassias,
Geums, Day Lilies anel Spanish Bluebells. Mr. M.
Prichard, of Christchurch, Hants, showed a group
of the best hardy flowers in season, tastefully
arranged with rare and lovely alpine plants in
flower along the margin. The finest flowers were
Globe Flowers in bright colours, Phloxes, Iris
sibirica, Verbascum phaniceum, Camassias, Day
Lilies and Cypriperliums. A miniature rock
garden, arranged by Messrs. Backhouse, of York,
was literally covered with alpine gems in flower,
of which but a tithe can be mentioned, those of
special note being Gentiana verna, Ranunculus
cortusa-folius and R. glacialis, Dianthus calli-
zonus and D. alpinus, Symphyandra Wanneri,
Silene acaulis muscoides, Delphinium nudicaule,
Androsace coronopifolia, and Arenaria longifolia,
a most distinct species, with grassy leaves and
heads of white flowers on stems 9 inches in length.
Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, also showed
alpines arranged on a rock garden of shelves or
ledges, masses of Aubrietias, Phloxes, Andro-
saces. Saxifrages and Primulas being prominent ;
cut hardy flowers in quantity came from the
same exhibitors. Dr. Wallis, of Colchester, was
the only exhibitor of the charming Calochorti,
showing several handsome kinds ; also Camassia
Cusicki, which has a tall handsome spike of pale
blue flowers, and Iris germanica in several fine
forms, one of the best being Princess of Wales.
Messrs. J. Yeitch and Sons showed bunches of
many things, the most interesting being Dodeca-
theons in charming and distinct varieties, Spanish
Scillas in many coloureel kinds, and the lovely
Hjacinthus amethystinus. Messrs. J. Carter and
Co. showed Pieonies, Doronicums, single and
double Tulips, Primula Sieboldi in variety, and
good tufted Pansiesin pans. Mr. S. Pye, Catterall,
Garstang, showed tufted Pansie s in large variety,
the varieties of Dr. Stuart's raising, in pure and
lovely colours, being a feature of this exhibit.
Messrs. Dobbie and Co. , of Rothesay, also had a
fine exhibit of tufted Tansies, comprising all the
best known kinds. Messrs. Perkins and Sons,
of Coventry, exhibited floral designs and bou-
cjuets in their best style, and Messrs. B. S. Wil-
liams and Son, of Holloway, showed graceful
baskets, bouepiets and sprays. Mr. J. R. Chard,
of Stoke Newington, made a prominent display
with his Arcadian decorations in great variety of
design, gracefully arranged with flowers and
foliage. The Horticultural College, Swanley,
arranged a table charming in its simple beauty,
sprays of Smilax and Roses only being used.
Bouepiets were also shown. Mr. J. Prewett,
Swiss Nursery, Hammersmith, showed a pretty
rustic design in table decoration. Mr. L. H.
Calcutt, of Stoke Newington, had a graceful lot
of arches, bouejuets anel baskets, and Messrs.
Phelps and Co. , of Cardiff, showed fine bouquets
of Roses and Orchiels.

Want of space compels us to leave over the
report of the fruit and vegetables as well as that
of the Tulip show. A list of the awards will be
found in our advertisement columns.

New Tree Pseonies. — Some notable new Tree
Pitonies were shown at the Temple by Messrs.
Kelway ; the flowers of large size, single or semi-
double, and most graceful as compared with those
of the full double varieties. The best were
Princess of Wales, which has an immense flower
of the purest white colour ; Duchess of Teck,
white, w.th long, narrow petals ; and a white
variety, with a blush linge on the edges of the
petals and a suffusion of the same at their base.
Lord Iveagh, which received an award of merit,

has a distinct flower of large size, the petals
wedge-shaped, narrowing at the base, its colour
bright cerise-red. Mrs. J. W. Simcox, salmon-
rose ; Mr. McMillan, rosy-blush ; and Sarah Bern-
hardt, flesh pink, are all ecjually beautiful. Such
noble flowers ought soon to find a prominent place
in many gardens.

The weather in West Herts. — There was
a very marked contrast between the weather of
the past week and that of the preceding one, the
latter having been singularly warm and bright,
while throughout most of the former the tempera-
ture remained unseasonably low and the sky
obscured by cloud. The great change in tem-
perature is shown very clearly by the readings of
the ground thermometers. On the 14 th inst. the
temperature at 2 feet deep stood at 58°, and at
1 foot deep at 63°, but only six days later the
reading at 2 feet had fallen to 53°, and at 1
foot to 52°. These are great changes in so short
a time. A welcome rain of nearly half an inch
came on the 17th inst., but previous to this no rain
worth mentioning had fallen for three weeks. —
E. M., Berkhamsted.

Public Gardens.

New recreation ground for Maidstone. —

The new recreation ground at Maidstone was
yesterday afternoon opened by Lord Harris. The
site, which covers nearly 20 acres, was the gift of
Mr. Balston, of Maidstone (the late High Sheriff
for Kent), and its conversion into a recreation
ground has cost nearly £10,000. A considerable
portion of the ground has been set apart for
cricket and football, while a cycling track, be-
lieved to be the largest in England, has also been
formed.

Destroying crickets.— Will any reader tell
me how to get rid of crickets in a dwelling house?
I have tried insect powder, but find no dead
crickets. Cockroaches readily take the powder
and it soon kills them.— Old Reader.

%* I have twice cleared houses of crickets by
blowing insect powder into the holes and cracks
where they lived near the kitchen fire. A corre-
spondent some time ago who was much troubled
with these insects in one of his glass houses let
the fire out for three days, and kept everything
near where the crickets sheltered themselves
saturated with water. This completely dis-
concerted them, as they love warmth and dryness.
Many crickets during the late frost must have
had a very bad time of it. — G. S. S.

BOOKS RECEIVED.

" Flowering Plants and Ferns of New South
Wales." Part. 1.

" List of Exotic Trees and Shrubs affected by
Australian Loranths and Visuums. "

"Vine Culture under Glass," by J. R. Pearson.
Revised and edited by C. E. Pearson. 6th edition.
Is. T. Formal! and Sons, Nottingham.

Names of plants.— S. N. T.—l, Kenia japo-
nica variegata ; 2, Piptanthus nepalensis ; 3, Pole-
monium eceruleum ; 4, Potentilla var. ; 5, Geranium

macron hizon. John Bennett. — Good forms of

OdcntoglcFsum crispum. U. J. Scammell.— Pyrus

aria. J. J. W. — Dendrobium bellatulum.- J. B. —

Impossible to narre from such a dried-up scrap.

R. P. Brotherston.— Aerifies Fieldiugi. C. Russell.

—A fasciated flower. It f requf ntly occurs. G. P. P.

— 1, Caragana arborescens ; 2, Kalmia rosea; 3,
Calycanthus floridus; 4, Cornus sibirica variega'a; 5,

Ribes aureum; 6, Philadelphus microphyllus.

J. Riddell. — Both forms of Odontoglossum crispum.
The Anthurium is a remarkably fine form, well worth
keeping. C. Blake. — Lonicera tatarica.

The Wild Garden: or, the Naturalisation and Natu:al
Grouping of Hardy Exotic Plants, vnth a chapter on the Garden
of British. Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, uith wood engralincs
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged, temy
8w>, linen cloth. Price 12«. ; veil bound in half morocco, 18l
Through all bookseller*.

THE GARDEN

371

No. 1228. 8ATURDAY, June 1,1895. Vol. XLVII.

" This 1b an Art
Which does mend Nature : change It rather ; bat
The Art itself is Natttri."— Shakupeart.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

GRAPE GROS COLMAN.

Whatever may be said or thought about the
flavour of this variety, there is no gainsaying
the fact of its being the most profitable late
Grape in cultivation. It is the immense berries
that seem to please most buyers, and ths latter
are not, as a rule, very fastidious as to colour
so long as it is nearer black than red. Instead
of extra fine Muscats fetching double the price
of Gros Colman, the reverse is often the case,
superior bunches of the latter sometimes realis-
ing as much as 6s. per lb., when from 3s. to
4s. only are forthcoming for Muscats. One
friend of mine started growing Muscat of
Alexandria extensively for the market under
the impression there was " money to be made
at it," only to find that he had far better have
substituted Gros Colman. The Charnel Island
growers were not particularly slow in finding
out what they ought to grow in the place of
Black Hamburgh when the prices for the latter
fell to such a very low figure, but, unfortu-
nately for them, they are very rigidly pro-
tected, and the Phylloxera scare led to laws
being made strictly prohibiting the introduc-
tion of Vines, cuttings, or eyes. As might be
expected, this did not wholly cut oft' supplies,
and at the risk of a fine of £20 several growers
contrived to procure enough cuttings of ripe
wood to inarch on to their Black Hamburgh
stocks and a good start was made. On p. 277
" G. C. R." drew attention to the successful
culture of Gros Colman in the neighbourhood
of Bath and elsewhere, but omitted mentioning
the fine bunches annually shown at Bath and
Bristol by Mr. W. Nash, Badminton Gardens,
Chippenham. Mr. Nash's bunches, never very
large, are remarkable for their good form
and the size and finish of the berries. A
single large shoulder would appear perfectly
characteristic, but when the bunch proper is
large enough it is well to dispense with great
shoulders altogether. Well-established Vines
are capable of producing a greater weight of
fiuit without the strain injuriously affecting
them than is the case with any other variety
that can be mentioned, but private growers are
not under any obligation to crop unduly heavy,
and ought not to do so if they are anxious to
have the berries large and perfectly coloured.
In particular ought great clumsy bunches to be
avoided. Nearly every strong lateral gives two
or three "shows," and if that nearest the old
wood is coarse and ugly, remove it in favour of
the next, which usually is, or can be made of
better form. In order to have very large
berries the flowers must be strong and the set
perfect, at least four stones or seeds forming in
eaoh. There must be no delay in removing su-
perfluous laterals or in stopping those reserved at
the second joint beyond the bunch saved, the aim
being to admit plenty of light to the bunches
long before they are in flower, as well as dur-
ing the flowering period, a smart tap towards
noon each day doing the rest. Thinning the
berries cannot well be started too soon.
Experts do most of theirs while yet the berries
are no larger than the seed of Sweet Peas, and
oiue even go the length of commencing thinning
he flowers before they have opened. It is

the central berries in each sub-division of bunch
that are or will be the largest, these also having
the strongest foot-stalks, and few other than
these ought to be left. A well-thinned bunch
usually appears over-thinned to the uninitiated,
but if two berries are left where one is ample,
that means the removal of what would have
developed into the finest berries as well as an-
other turn at thinning later on. When berries
have to be cut out " at the last minute," that
is to say, when they are beginning to press
against each other, a very steady hand indeed is
required, or otherwise those reserved will be
badly disfigured. The rule then ought to be,
"thin early and thin severely." If the reduc-
tion of the number of bunches is uot completed
before the thinning is done, it should take place
soon afterwards, not waiting till colouring
commences or till the grower gets frightened at
having left a far greater weight of fruit hanging
than intended. I have seen whole barrow-loads
of bunches cut from over-cropped Vines when
it was far too late to greatly benefit the rest by
their removal. Be content with handsome
medium-sized bunches, alternating these np
the rod, one on every second lateral each
side. Quite the reddest ripe berries I have seen
of Gros Colman were produced by strong
rods inarched on to a large Muscat of
Alexandria Vine. Each year these rods
gave grand bunches and berries of the largest
size, but never once was a bunch cut that
would have taken a prize at an average autumn
show. It was not the fault of the stock, but
rather owing to the temperature of the house
that the colouring was so bad. High tem-
peratures evidently favour the swelling of the
berries to a great size and perfect ripening in
the case of white Muscats, but are altogether
unfavourable to the colouring of Gros Colman.
Those red berries were of excellent quality and
superior to many blue-black berries I have
tasted, and another instance is afforded in
support of the theory that neither a good nor
bad colour is any criterion of quality. At
Fordingbridge Mr. Castle used to grow extra
heavy crops of Gros Colman, and which were of
excellent quality, but the colour was scarcely
up to exhibition form, nor ought it to be ex-
pected when the crops are exceptionally heavy.
I hold that the colouring period in the case of
the Grape under notice extends, or should ex-
tend, over a greater length of time than is re-
quired for any other variety in cultivation.
Some of the best Gros Colman I ever grew com-
menced colouring late in August, and an improve-
ment in the colour was observable as late as
the end of October. They were not hurried,
as may be imagined, but enough fire-heat was
kept up to maintain a good circulation of air
both by night and day. One essential to per-
fect colouring is healthy foliage. There must
be no scalding, owing to imperfect ventilation,
nor no red spider allowed to gain a foothold.
Although the leaves are usually large and stout,
they appear to be very liable to burning, and
modern vineries with a minimum amount of
woodwork and a maximum quantity of glass,
in large squares, would seem to be less suited
to the variety than are the more old-fashioned
structures. So much importance do I attach to
the preservation of the primary or first-formed
leaves, that I strongly advocate lightly shading
the roof where the foliage is greatly exposed to
all the sunshine going. A fish-net hungslackly
over the roof is sufficient, or a very light shading
of lime water may be sprayed over the glass
with a syringe as often as need be.

What "G. C. R." advances as to the possi-
bility of over-feeding this Grape when rooting
in a heavy retentive soil holds good, I think, in

the case of Grapes generally. There ought to
be no fixed times for watering, or rather there
should be no general rule laid down. During
very hot weather some borders— though, luckily,
few in number — require to be watered three
times a week. Just now it is my lot to have to
do with a soil that must be watered very fre-
quently, and it seems to suit Gros Colman re-
markably well. In another vinery that I had
charge of for many years a good watering once
a fortnight was sufficient during hot weather,
and much less often at other times. Cultivators
ought always to be guided by the state of their
borders. These can easily be probed to a good
depth without damaging many roots, and water
should be given when the soil is approaching
dryness— not much either before or after. It
is not such a great amount that is needed if the
soil is caught at the right time, but wait till it
becomes dry and crumbling, and the chances
are one heavy watering will not be sufficient to
properly remoisten it. Too much manure, that
is to say, too much at one time, is a mistake,
not merely in the case of Gros Colman, but
with all other Grapes. The roots cannot absorb
large quantities, and may easily be injured by
an overdose. At the same time, I agree with
"G. C. R." that Gros Colman will not thrive
in an over-rich soil that may yet be not alto-
gether unsuited to Alicante, Lady Downe's, and
such like. Some twelve years ago it fell to my
lot to plant a new vinery. The border was
formed inside the house, of rather heavy soil,
and early in the winter, in readiness for newly-
raised Vines that would be large enough to
plant in May. During part of the winter and
the early spring months a temporary staging was
fixed along the front of this house for a rather
large batch of Cinerarias. The latter were very
highly fed for several weeks, and naturally the
drainage from these enriched the border under-
neath.0 Out of a collection of the best late
Grapes planted in this soil, all grew well but
Gros Colman, and this variety failed badly in
each instance, to the extent of being a dis-
figurement to the house for two years. What
it seems to revel in is a fresh supply of light
loamy compost every second year.

W. Igoulden.

Strawberries and drought,— I have never
proved the value of an autumn mulch on Straw-
berry beds on light soil more than this season.
For several weeks bright sun was accompanied by
high parching winds, which drew all the surface
moisture out of the ground, so much so indeed,
that Strawberry plants grown expressly for run-
ners by the margins of walks and unmulched
showed signs of distress. On examining the
bearing beds, which were well mulched in
December with short litter from the pig yard, the
same being well soaked with urine, I find that the
surface soil is as moist and cool as it was when
the mulch was applied. Had it not been for this
mulch I am confident that our plants would have
suffered much and the crop proportionally. Of
course, I would not advocate the autumn mulch
on heavv, retentive soils, rather waiting till early
spring, but I am sure that if applied earlier than
is the rule with many, crops would be better and
spider less troublesome. — C. N.

Pruning standard Apple trees.— The soil
at Normansfield, Hampton Wick, is generally of
a very light, porous, sandy nature. Perhaps it is
for this reason that the rule, prevails of some-
what hard pruning or spurring the branches of
standard Apple trees. These trees, some twelve
to fourteen years planted, have very stout, clean
stems, and in all cases the heads are restricted to
lone stout branches that are treated as cordons,
for every side shoot is rigidly cut off. Cleaner
or more health v trees, and there are many of
them, could not be found, and so far as the pre-

372

THE GARDEN.

[June 1, 1895.

sent season is concerned, they exhibit promise of
a grand crop of fruit. Lord Suffield is on this
sod and under this form of treatment wonderfully
robust and healthy, whilst Blenheim Pippin does
not seem to grow very rampantly. Cox's Orange
Pippin and King of the Pippins are also in very
line condition. It is possible that in strong, re-
tentive soil this form of pruning would prove too
drastic and result in the constant reproduction of
wood. Here the pruning thus given seems to
create an admirable balance as between root ca-
pacity and head. It perhaps serves to show that
it is not easy to lay down any hard-and-fast rule
to serve for all soils, and only personal experience
will enable the grower to do the right thing ac-
cording to surroundings. On sand, Mr. Salter,
at Woodhateh, Reigate, prunes his dwarf or
bush trees in a similar fashion. Just, indeed, as
Mr. Molyneux on the Swanmore chalk prunes his
Red Currants, the long branches in each case
being close spurred, yet in both cases fine crops
are produced. No doubt the method, whilst not
so repressive of growth as is sometimes seen in
gardens, enables the tree to obtain plenty of
light and air, and that is matter of the highest
moment.— A. D.

Disbudding Peach trees.— Doubtless this is
often unduly postponed ; consequently the crop
of fruit is much affected. There is with many
a reticence in commencing to reduce the shoots
as soon as the fruit is well set. In the meantime
the growth on vigorous trees makes great head-
way, monopolizing the bulk of the sap and caus-
ing many of the fruit to fall. A second evil is
that the tree receives a considerable check when
so treated, which is also sufficient to cause the
fruit to drop. If piecemeal disbudding is begun
very early, commencing at the top of the tree a
secondary reduction may take place in five or six
days, and a third and final one before extended
shoots have had a chance to rob the fruit of
nourishment. If more attention were paid to
this important point we should hear less of
Peaches failing.— C. H.

EFFECTS OF FROST ON FRUIT TREES.
It is worthy of note how the frost has retarded
the flow of sap on some kinds of fruit, and this is
particularly noticeable with Plums and Cherries.
East spring, and also in 1893, vegetation of all
kinds was very forward ; the blossom of all kinds
of hardy fruit— with the exception of the Apple-
had faded and gone long before this date (May 10).
Last season, Plums, Pears and Cherries were well
advanced by this time ; this year, however, the
order of things is reversed. The Apple blossom is
fully two days earlier now than it was at the same
date last year, as there was scarcely a flower open
before the 15th of this month ; while this spring
all— with the exception of a few of the late-flower-
ing kinds such as Court Pendu Plat, French
Crab and Northern Greening— will have shed their
petals by that date. It was on May 19 that the
cold weather set in last year. The Apple trees
were then in full bloom, and as we had such a wet
period for the following week or ten days together
with cold frosty nights, there was but little chance
of the pollen getting dry ; hence the cause of the
scarcity of fruit. Plum trees here in the open
orchard, except the early kinds, are only now in
bloom ; the same may be said of Green Gages and
Damsons. The Cherries in the orchards, too, are
still in bloom, thus showing the peculiarity of the
season. We have sometimes had the fruit on
such trees the size of Peas at the end of April,
when the Apple trees have only been showing
their buds. Why the frost should have taken
more hold on Plums and Cherries it is difficult to
explain, and I can only account for it by the
wood being injured to such an extent as to
prevent the sap flowing. Had it not been for
the moist weather we experienced during April
many of the trees would have failed to have put
forth leaves again. I noticed a large tree which
had the bark split from the upper blanches to the
ground by the frost ; this has even now failed to
put forth any shoots. So far Black Currants

look promising, for neither the frost nor birds
seem to have injured them in the least, and as
there has not been any serious frost for several
weeks we may now hope to have a full crop of
fruit. Morello Cherries on both north and north-
east walls have set their fruit wonderfully, being
more forward than the early sweet varieties grow-
ing in the open orchards. How to account for
this peculiar freak I do not know, unless it be
that the wood was more perfectly ripened and
therefore less injured by the frost, as was the case
with Cherries of the early varieties growing
against south and south-west walls, the fruit of
which is now stoning. It would be interesting to
know if fruit trees in other parts of the country
have been affected in the same way as they have
on the cold, heavy soil in this district. It will
also be instructive to watch their progress
through the summer till the fruit is ripe.

H. C. P.

Grape "West's St. Peter's.— One seldom
meets with this (irape nowadays, probably on
account of its strong resemblance to the Black
Hamburgh and the comparative smallness of its
bunches. I maintain, however, that where room
can be spared this Grape is well worth growing,
as, independent of its hardiness and good setting
qualities, it is of excellent flavour, and, keeping
better than the Hamburgh, comes in most accept-
able between that variety and Lady Downe's.
The berries are rather small, but they always
colour well, and a heavy crop may always be
taken from healthy Vines without fear of any
evil results. It is all the better for being treated
to a comfortable temperature, but does not re-
quire strong heat. — J. Crawford.

Forcing late Peaches.— There are, I think,
many of the so called late Peaches, and which, it
is true, ripen their fruit late in autumn when
treated simply to a cool house or open wall, that
would readily respond to a warmer temperature
and even force well. I have been told on good
authority that Late Admirable Peach will force
well, and I have myself proved that both Sea
Eagle and Princess of Wales do well if started in
Jannr-y and brought on in heat. I have both
these varieties in a span-roofed house, side by
side with Stirling Castle and Violette Hative, and
they follow these varieties in the order named.
Sea Eagle has a remarkable constitution, bears
continuously and well, and is, especially when
ripened under the above treatment, of excellent
flavour. Of course we are not short of first and
second early Peaches and Nectarines, their names
being legion ; nevertheless for those who desire
extra large, handsome fruit for exhibition toler-
ably early in the season, Sea Eagle and Princess
of Wales are worthy of a place in a house that is
to be started during January. — J. N.

NOTES FROM HIGH ELMS.
About two miles from Orpington Station in Kent
is High Elms, the residence of Sir John Lubbock,
and when there a few days ago we made notes of
someof the more interesting featuresof the gardens.
Of indoor plants the greatest attention is paid
to the Carnation, and Mr. Morter, the head gar-
dener, has raised many fine seedlings, in which
the Malmaison character is shown, these seedlings
resulting from crosses with some of the finest va-
rieties in cultivation. None of them were named,
but a few were quite worthy of some distinction,
especially a fine buff-coloure'd kind in the way of
Mrs. Reynolds-Hole, a clear, shining, yellow-
flowered variety. All the plants were in robust
health, especially the blush and ordinary forms of the
Malmaison, no spot or disease of any kind appear-
ing on the leaves. The house of Carnations here
was bright with bloom, and we were pleased to
see that in the seedlings fragrance was strongly
marked. This is not always the case, but the
fragrance of the Carnation' is far too precious to
lose. Primula Sieboldi was very fine, and by
hybridisation an excellent race has been obtained
with a profusion of large flowers of much deeper
colour than usual.

Some houses were filled with Caladiums, Dra-
caenas and Crotons. The Caladiums were chiefly
represented by that dwarf race shown at times by
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea. This is a
very dwarf class, conspicuous for the tufted habit,
so to say, of the plants and the fine colours of the
leaves. We made note of the following kinds :
Duke of York has deep crimson foot-stalks to the
leaves, the blade carmine-rose. Chelsea Gem ii
one of the most brightly coloured of all, and very
attractive with its shades of crimson and carmine.
Chelsea Gem. F. W. Moore, Duchess of York,
Ladas, Lord Rosebery, and Tennyson, all having
this dwarf habit of growth, were also noteworthy.
We noticed also several of the newer Dracaenas,
such as Frederici, Jamesi, with narrow, graceful,
chocolate and crimson leaves, and Lord Wolseley,
whilst striking for its curious and distinct ma-
genta-shaded foliage is Strobilanthes Dyerianus.
Brugmansia suaveolens was flowering freely, its
large trumpet-shaped, creamy-white flowers filling
the house with their powerful perfume.

The fruit houses were filled with the usual
selection of trees in the best of health, and Straw-
berries promise well for a splendid crop. Chief re-
liance is placed upon John Ruskin as an early kind.
A considerable extent of woodland surrounds
the gardens, and one notices how well the Beech
thrives here, forming splendid specimens, now in
the full beauty of their spring leafage, whilst in a
woodland drive of some miles is " The Beech Walk, '
an avenue, so to say, of Beeches, meeting over-
head and forming a canopy of greenery, setting
off the sombre-coloured Conifers and Yews that
abound. We are pleased to see that this wood-
land drive has been opened up to give the many
fine trees and shrubs some chance of showing their
charming character. Here the lovely Silver-
Birch is thoroughly at home, sometimes standing
by itself or backed by the heavy-coloured Yew.
Large bushes of the common Barberry, the
silvery-leaved Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rham-
noides), Laburnums, Lilacs, and the Wayfaring
Tree (Viburnum Lantana) are interesting, and
suggest how still more delightful such a walk may
be made by introducing other beautiful flowering
shrubs, of which we have a countless number in
gardens. Several trees of the double-flowering
Cherry were in full blossom, every branch wreathed
with the pure white, double rosette-like blossoms,
as if snow had clothed them with a pure white
covering. In full flower also were the Bird
Cherry, the Chestnuts, the red flowered varieties
just tinged as yet with colour, the Laburnums,
and such things as the common Spindle tree
(Euonymus europa'us) to brighten the autumn
landscape. Here and there the mass of bright
green is relieved by excellent specimens of Picea
Morinda, and Abies Douglasi succeeds remarkably
well. The Conifer family, as a rule, has fared
badly during the past winter. Here one sees
many browned trees, some dead, others so injured
as to be worthless. What a lesson the winter has
taught planters in the careful avoidance of every-
thing not thoroughly hardy. Trees only just
arrived at full maturity have been killed, whilst
many things we know to be perfectly hardy
amongst flowering trees and shrubs are neglected.
By this drive we noticed a large tree of the
curious Cytisus Adami. The tree bears racemes
of purple and yellow flowers, these appearing not
only on the same specimen, but on the same
branch. There are a certain quaintness and
charm in old examples of this strange supposed
hybrid. In the garden and woodland, purple-
leaved Beeches impart welcome colour, sometimes
against tender green foliage or a Lebanon Cedar,
whilst in the garden proper, Pyrus malus flori-
bunda was a mass of bloom. This is one of the
most delightful shrubs ever introduced. The
graceful tender shoots are smothered with bloom,
tender pink, except the crimson buds. A large
selection of Spiraeas is grown, and one sees also
such charming features as Daffodils planted in a
natural way in the grass, an arcade of Roses,
Vines, Clematises, and other climbers, while the
more stately, hardy, fine-foliaged plants, as Hera-
cleum giganteum, receive attention.

June 1, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

373

Trees and Shrubs.

TRUMPET FLOWERS.
(bignonia.)
The hardy species of this large tropical genus
of climbers are invaluable, being so graceful
in growth, showy in flower, and vigorous.
There are three kinds thoroughly hardy against
sunny walls in almost every part of these
islands. They are Bignonia radicals, B.

Trumpet Flower will run up and cover a wall 40
feet high. It is useful also for covering arbours,
pergolas, and the like.

B. grandiflora (see illustration), a Chinese
plant, is more tender than B. radicans, and by no
means so common. It is much showier when in
bloom, the drooping flowers being twice the size,
of a bright orange-scarlet, and produced in large
clusters. Its foliage, too, is larger, but the plant
rarely grows so vigorously in this country as
B. radicans. It is a glorious object in bloom and
woithy of the best position on a warm sunny wall.

Other Bignonias from temperate countries,
such as B. capensis and B. australis, might be
planted against sunny and sheltered walls in
the south, where they often flower as freely as
in a greenhouse.

Bignonia grandiflora. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by Miss Willmott.

grandiflora, and B. capreolata. The first two
are strictly species of Tecoma, but are most
generally known as Bignonias ; therefore the
name is retained here.

B. radicans is a native of the North American
States, and is an old garden favourite. Its long
wiry stems send out roots like Ivy, and so cling to
walls or any support. The pinnate foliage is grace-
ful, and in late summer the shoots are terminated
by dense clusters of showy trumpet-shaped scarlet
and orange blossoms. There is a variety named
major with larger flowers of a paler tint, and the
foliage also is more robust. A strong plant of this

It was introduced at the beginning of the century,
but never seems to have become very common.

B. capreolata, a true Bignonia, is a native of
the southern parts of North America, and is quite
hard}- in all but the coldest parts of England. It
is commonly grown as a greenhouse climber, but
it succeeds well against a warm wall. It has
heart-shaped leaves ending in curly tendrils like
a Vine, which enable it to climb high. The flowers,
of a true trumpet shape, are large, reddish yellow,
and produced, not in clusters, but singly. Given
a sheltered spot against a sunny wall, it is a most
satisfactory plant, and almost an evergreen.

TREES AND SHRUBS IN SUSSEX.

One would be almost inclined to think that after
such a severe winter many of these would fail to
bloom. Such, however, is not the case, if we may
judge from those already in flower or that have
faded and gone. The early-flowering Spinvas
such as confusa and Thunbergi were never more
beautiful, the long, slender branches of the latter
being covered with their tiny clusters of white
flowers, which hang gracefully to the ground.
Deutzia gracilis with me has suffered somewhat,
as on the stilt' soil the growth docs not always get
thoroughly ripened ; some of the shoots that were
well ripened are blooming their whole length and
bearing graceful spikes from 2 feet to 3 feet in
length. We next come to Kalmia nana, with its
delicate-looking flowers. Andromeda Cateebsei
made shoots last season from 2 feet to 3 feet in
length, and these are now clothed with clusters of
Heath-like flowers their whole length. This shrub
is well worthy of more extensive cultivation, con-
sidering it is so hardy and presents such a grace-
ful appearance when in bloom. Wherever Heaths
will grow this will also thrive amazingly, though
it delights in rather more moisture. Large sprays
of it remind one of Solomon's Seal at a distance,
though on closer inspection it will be observed
the flowers are produced in clusters hanging from
the undersides of the shoots.

Azaleas have never been more beautiful than
they are this season ; the hundreds of plants along-
side the drives and woodland walks quite scent
the air with their delicate perfume. A. mollis is
particularly tine this year, there not having been
any late spring frosts to injure the bloom. The
lovely shades of this interesting section are so
pleasing, that none could help but admire them.
Ghent varieties also look well just now. Azalea
amiena, which is considered by some to be too
tender to be planted in the open ground, has
passed through the late severe winter almost un-
injured, and is now one mass of flower. This
plant is much more hardy than some people think,
being less liable to injury than either the Laurus-
tinus, Escallonia, Arbutus and such-like plants.
Rhododendrons of the early-flowering section, such
as R. catawbiense, ferrugineum, hirsutum. dauri-
cum, ciliatum and other dwarf-growing kinds, have
all withstood the frost well. These are charming
subjects for small beds or the rock garden where
the soil is of a peaty nature. Hybrids in a great
measure have been but little injured, though a
few of the more tender early -flowering varieties
had their buds killed, and some of those with
rough foliage had the leaves pinched by the frost.
One of the most interesting trees here at the pre-
sent time is a large specimen of Halesia tetraptera,
which has grown to the height of about 20 feet,
its long, slender branches being clothed with Snow-
drop-like flowers. How seldom do we meet with
this plant except in a small state, and seeing it
is so hardy and introduced for so long a time, the
wonder is that it has not become more common.
Aralia Sieboldi has suffered much this winter — so
much so, indeed, that I fear large plants which
have withstood the frost for the last twenty years
are completely killed. Some of the Palms have
withstood the frost and are now sending up their
flower-spikes. Magnolias do not seem to be in-
jured in the least and are flowering as freely as
usual. H. C. P.

Double Lilacs. — Differences of opinion may
exist as to whether double or single-flowered
Lilacs are the more beautiful, though for my own
part as garden shrubs I prefer the single kinds.
One of the best double flowered kinds is certainly
Leon Simon. A good double white variety with
exceptionably large blossoms is Madame Lemoine,
while a suitable companion, but with single flowers

374

THE GARDEN

[Junk 1, 1895.

is Madame Legraye, which is now largely grown
for forcing. It is less vigorous than some of the
others, but is in every respect a very desirable
form. So is Souvenir de Louis Spath, whose
massive clusters of richly coloured blossoms cause
it to be singled out at once from among its asso-
ciates. For forcing where the plants are brought
much nearer to the eye, and consequently the
duplex style of the flower is more apparent, these
double Lilacs form a pleasing variety, but there
are too many sorts. — T.

GARDEN SKETCHES.
Chapter XII.

Thanks to the human heart by which we live,
Thanks to its tenderness, its joys, and fears ;

To me the meanest flower that blows can give
Thoughts that do often he too deep for tears.
Wokpsworth.

November 3. — A few crisp mornings of white
frost have brought us into November. The
cool, brisk air was pleasant after such continued
warmth, and just gave the sense that summer
was indeed over, and that the flowers still left
with us were precious, because so soon to haste
away. Nothing was really harmed, only the
fear awakened that the next touch might be
blackening to tender plants, so that all should
be housed or made safe in the ground by leaf-
mould or other protection round the roots.
The Ivy-leaved Geraniums have been lifted and
potted, and in their place Tulipa Gesneriana has
been planted. These should be fine next spring,
with the border of silvery-leaved Cyclamen and
pale blue Hyacinths. The crimson Fuchsia bed
has had the soil renewed by fresh loam and
leaf-mould, and it, too, is filled with scarlet
Tulips and young plants of Forget-me-not
added to carpet the ground in early spring.
Then the bulbs of Tulipa Greigi which were
lifted in the month of June have been replanted
among the white Fritillaries, as this was found
to be a charming companionship in the month
of April. A few extra bulbs of Chionodoxa
Lucilire gigantea and the larger Scilla bifolia
and Narcissus Bulbocodium have been added
to the rock garden, where the earliest blossoms
of the year are to be found in sunny nooks.

And now when the lovely tints of fading
foliage are gone, and the strong winds have
swept each leaf away from the grey tracery of
branches overhead, our thoughts turn naturally
to the hidden treasures in the earth, the bulbs
with sleeping blossoms, that will wake with the
returning days of spring. Our gardens are
never without a promise, even in winter's
darkest hours, and this is one of a garden's
greatest charms, its perpetual expectancy and
onward glance to blossoms and to fruitage of
which as yet the dormant buds may be all that
is visible. No doubt the disappointments of
'gardening" are many. There is much waiting,
and often our hopes are frustrated by cruel
frost, or storm, or drought, or insect pest. But
difficulties overcome, courage and perseverance
strengthened, and patience cultivated, bring
powers of the mind that blossom into more last-
ing flowers, that cannot be swept away by
chance or change.

When our gardens pass from us we are
apt to think that our labour is lost and swept
away, but it is not always thus, and that others
should reap where wo have sown is, mayhap, a
richer gain than we imagine. The circle of our
life must ever be enlarged by those to whom it
reaches, for it is not by what we have done for
ourselves, but by what we have done for others
that the best days of our life must be counted.
November 15. — This morning brought a
lovely sight, that of a golden-crested wren

bathing among the blossoms of the Cape Haw-
thorn (Aponogeton distachyon) in the fountain
basin. A few stones hold the plant in position,
and it was upon one of these that the exquisite
little creature stood, and boldly dipped and
splashed, itself scarce larger than the flowers,
and like a blossom with wings. Now, as the
hours of daylight shorten, the old Monthly or
China Roses gleam out in all their beauty.
Shades of brightest crimson, cerise, blush, and
creamy white, all mingled together, give a
brightness of colour not equalled by any other
out-of-door flower at this late season. In
sheltered spots there is hardly a day during
winter that a few buds cannot be found on
these Roses, while they are the earliest to re-
spond to the first warm days of spring. Their
cheerful shining leaves are retained until
pushed aside by the fresh swelling buds, so
that they have never the bare, winter aspect of
other Rose trees. One can scarcely call them
perfumed, and yet they have a subtle, delicate
odour and scent of freshness which is all their
own and very delightful. The old Blush
Monthly Rose has been well-nigh a century in
our gardens, having been brought to this
country in the year 1796. Like other old-
fashioned plants, these Roses were set aside to
make way for the " bedding-out " system, but
within the last few years the love for them has
been again aroused, and happily so, for these
Roses full of variety and good qualities are a
garden in themselves. The Chrysanthemums
in the flower border are well in blossom now.
Grown in their free, unbudded state they are
valuable for indoor cutting, being so much
more graceful for vases than one large flower
on the top of a stick, the cultured fashion of
late. The earliest Hellebores are beginning to
lift up their flower-buds. It is pleasant to
push aside the leaves and peep at the nests of
flower-buds clustered together, some enclosed
in their pink sheaths only emerging from be-
neath, others risen above the ground with pure
white buds, all promising a harvest of blossoms
for months to come. They are planted every-
where, here and there in the herbaceous border
for the sake of their evergreen foliage in winter,
in the rock garden, in groups among a bed of
American plants, in the fountain garden, and
in the walled garden, where the seedlings spent
their first year after being planted out. But
no matter how numerous they are, there never
seems one too many, so highly are they prized
in the dark days of winter.

And now as the year draws to a close in which
we have recorded the passing of the flowers from
week to week and month to month, let us for a
moment glance backward and see how the
golden thread of blossom has been from the
very first interwoven with the web of life. We
are prone to forget what the great philosopher
tells us, that " God first planted a garden, and
indeed it is the purest of human pleasures."
In sacred history, flowers are alluded to as em-
blematic of spiritual growth in man, and look-
ing back through profane history we notice how
they have ever mingled in rites and ceremonies
of an emotional character. How much the
Greeks were indebted to flower and foliage for
their decorative art, we learn in the beautiful
forms and curves visible throughout their de-
signs. Even in the present day many of our
pillars still wear the noble Acanthus leaves with
which the old Greeks loved to clothe the capitals
of their stately columns. From the earliest
ages poets have sung of flowers, and we can all
remember the ancient myths in which gods and
goddesses were transformed into trees and blos-
soms. In the waving corn-fields the bread of
the world is silently made. From the shade of

the forest our shelter is given. The timber
grown there in stillness supplies our every need,
until at the end it bears us to our last resting
place. The buried flora of past ages blossoms
afresh for us in the kindling warmth that
awakens new buds and flowers in our hot-
houses, so that flowers dead thousands and
thousands of years ago can light our earth stars
for us now, and the energy conserved for long
ages of time in the vegetable blackness of coal
leaps forth into flame and gives us the great
steam force which has extended our nation and
language until it circles the world, and has
brought to our shores the richest produce of
other lands. Accustomed as we are to the fruits
of far countries and all the produce of warmer
climes, we never pause to remember that they
are borne to us, at least in far the greatest
quantity, by the force of a dead flora whose
leaves and blossoms once shimmered in the sun-
shine, and then sank into darkness and obi ivion
for ages of time.

There are in life many pursuits, many things
precious and beautiful, that can only be fol-
lowed or possessed by the few ; but the love for,
and enjoyment in flowers is free and wide as the
world itself. A queen in her palace garden
may walk amid Roses and Lilies, but she cannot
receive more pleasure from them than the hum-
ble cottager in some far-off lonely vale who has
only one " Rose looking in at the window," and '
whose Lily stems lean against the time-worn
walls of her lowly dwelling. A king may have
his marble halls filled with rare plants from
southern shores and his table adorned with
exotics, but there may be a coat of mail beneath
the royal robe ; while the poor city weaver, free
and fearless in his smoke-dimmed chamber in
the narrow, darkened street, may enjoy with a
right royal heart his bunch of golden Daffodils,
set in an old brown jug, but bringing with it
the scent of hedgerows and song of lark and
flickering sunshine over hill and dale, remem-
bered from his mother's home in days gone by.
The finest work is ofttinies formed with the
simplest tools ; so it is to the poor Manchester
weaver, who found time amid his daily toil to
love and teud his flowers, that we owe Narcissus
Horsfieldi, that king among Daffodils.

And now the after word. Let no one think
that he cannot graduate in the school of
gardening and pass from it the richer of its many
lessons. Perhaps one little flower, the "crim-
son-tipped Daisy," can tell us what some of these
lessons are. Placed wherever it may be, on
some lone hillside, buffeted by storm and
drenched with rain, trodden under foot in the
dusty byeway, unseen and forgotten in some
shady copse, shorn of its flowers in some velvet
lawn, it is always dauntless, accepting its sur-
roundings no matter how adverse, and so turn-
ing for ever a fearless eye to heaven.

L. A. L.

NOTES FROM A SUBURBAN GARDEN IN
SOUTH DUBLIN.

After a winter phenomenal in its length, we can
now form some idea as to where we are, and the
general verdict about here is, that we have
escaped much better than we expected. In my
own little garden (and elsewhere) Veronicas of the
Andersoni type are utterly destroyed. Of V.
Hulkeana — which was never injured before — but
one plant remains, and that sorely crippled. V.
pinguifolia is untouched, also V. salicifolia (?) and
V. Lavandiana ; the latter was covered up with
snow, which doubtless saved it. Similarly, Pitto-
sporum Tobira is almost killed, except some
branches which lay on the ground and are un-
injured. Olearias "(stellulata and macrodonta) are
also almost exterminated not only here, but at
Mount Usher, Co. Wicklow; but lately I saw

June 1, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

375

at Killiney large bushes of the former absolutely
untouched and bursting into bloom. These are
growing in a north border where, I am told, they
get no sun for six months of the year. Is this the
reason they have survived when others have been
destroyed? A young plant of Eucalyptus is
breaking up strongly from the root, while an old
Heliotrope which has been for years under the sill
of my drawing-room window is coming up as well
as usual. A healthy little clump of Gentiana
verna seemed to enjoy the severe winter, and has
yielded about fifty flowers. Three or 4 inches
of ice on my 1^-foot deep Lily pool have done no
damage to two of Marliac's Nymphitas (N. Mar-
liacea Chromatella and N. odorata rubra). Nu-
merous flowers and buds are visible on the
former. Sparaxis and Ixias, which were sedu-
lously protected with twigs and hay, escaped pretty
well and are now coming into bloom. Cordylines
are considerably browned, but the central core of
leaves is in all, or nearly all, instances uninjured.
Escallonias have felt the cold considerably, E.
montevidensis worst, then E. pterocladon, while
the old E. macrantha has become for the time a
deciduous shrub, but, with that exception, seems
none the worse. This change from evergreen to
deciduous is noticeable in other things, such as
Abelia trifiora, Passiflora ccerulea, Edwardsia
grandiflora to a less extent, &c. Beyond a very
slight scorching, Choisya ternata has come well
out of the ordeal, and is now covered with its
lovely scented flowers; and a similar remark is
true of Rubus deliciosus, which is blossoming
better than I ever had it before. The hardiness
of these two is, I think, now beyond dispute.
Ficus repens, which covers the back of my little
stove, has for some time crept out and over the
wall outside, and last winter was unable to kill it.
Another grand plant which laughs at frost and
snow is Rodgersia podophylla, as also its comrade
and congener, Saxifraga peltata, which has this
year been literally bristling with flowers. It will,
I think, be interesting and instructive to hear what
have survived and what destroyed in various locali-
ties and under various circumstances, so I venture
to contribute my mite of information. G. P.

Flower Garden.

AQUILEGIAS.
There are few hardy perennials more generally
worthy of cultivation than the Aquilegias.
Perfectly hardy and enduring in so far as the
true perennials are concerned, and in most soils
these beautiful plants year by year increase in
beauty and number of flowers produced upon
individual plants. This is f specially true of the
larger kinds that are more fitted for the border
than of the dwarfer alpine forms. With the
exception of A. sibirica all the species have
drooping flowers, and this fact, combined with
the delicate connection of the stalk with the
blossom, imparts an exceedingly graceful bear-
ing. Aquilegias are best raised from seed, tak-
ing care that the supply of the choicer kinds, for
example, A. alpina, A. glandulosa, A. cierulea,
and others is obtained from some reliable source.
These flowers are so readily cross-fertilised by
insects, that it is only with care that seed true
to its kind can be secured, either by covering up
a whole plant with fine gauze, or a few pods ac-
cording to requirements. The ease with which
these flowers are fertilised has resulted during
recent years in a most charming race of plants,
among which are many exceedingly distinct and
beautiful shades of colour. The propagation of
any particular plant of special merit can only
be accomplished by very careful division, and
preferably in the spring-time. This may also
be done early in autumn, say the end of August
and early September, but never late in the year.
Such divisions are frequently safer if planted in
boxes of cocoa-nut fibre and stood in the open

in a somewhat sheltered spot ; this is to be pre-
ferred to potting and placing in frames, and
particularly is this true of the more delicate and
rare kinds, either species or hybrids. A deep
sandy loam, fairly rich, will suit most kinds well.
Some of the taller kinds, and notably A. chry-
santha, I have never seen finer than when grown
in a good fairly stiff loam. In this the plants
were most vigorous, attaining in the third year
to nearly 3k feet high and fully as much through,
and bearing many hundreds of blossoms and
buds. Such fine examples of the larger kinds

A white Aquilegia.

can only be obtained by letting the plants alone.
Indeed, these plants are not benefited by trans-
planting, but generally the reverse, and invari-
ably so if large clumps in the open. Seedling
plants of these Columbines transplant readily in
a young state and well enough for a year later,
but to obtain the best results the seedling
plants should when large enough be planted at
once into their permanent positions. This is
equally true when grouping the dwarfer alpines
in the rock garden as when planting larger beds
in the flower garden.

There are many distinct and beautiful kinds,
the following being among the best : A. alpina,

deep blue ; A. ccerulea (Rocky Mountain
Columbine), flowers sky-blue and white, a most
charming kind for the rock garden or for pots ;
A. chrysantha, yellow, 3 feet to 4 feet, a most
handsome bush when in flower ; A. formosa,
bright red, very distinct and effective ; A. glandu-
losa, an exquisite and handsome species with
very large deep lilac-blue and white flowers,
rarely more than 0 inches high, a grand plant
for the rock garden or for pots in a cool
house ; A. olympica, delicate mauve-blue and
white, quite a distinct type, height lj feet ; A.
pyrenaica, lilac-blue, very effective, best re-
garded perhaps as a biennial, 9 inches to 1 foot
high.

Apart from these there are inaDy varieties, to
say nothing of an almost endless supply of
hybrid forms of ccerulea, canadensis, califor-
nica which provide us with a marvellous array
of new, distinct, beautiful, and varying shades of
colour. Many of these hybrids are beautifully
adapted for pot culture for conservatory decora-
tion, and under glass are decidedly pleasing and
effective. E. J.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.
Campanula tridentata. — The first flowers
opened on May 14. They are posed salver
fashion, but in shape are half cup and half star,
i.e., there is a distinct cup of deep purple that
could scarcely be covered by a shilling ; then the
segments of the corolla, which are of a more red-
purple, are sharply bent back, and so give the
star-like effect. The whole flower may be 1 i inches
across, the plant is but 3 inches high, and it has
stood quite exposed facing south and at an eleva-
tion of 2 feet from the Grass level. Here we have
something fresh, and certainly a plant of the first
rank. Where the tridentate quality comes in I
do not see just now, but I fancy the early radical
leaves are so formed at the blunt ends.

Peeonia Witmanniana. — This is now in
flower, proving itself to be one of the very earliest
species. It has large creamy single flowers, the
cups pretty well filled with golden stamens or
anthers somewhat pink tinted. Its perfume is a
valuable quality, though some might consider it
a little too strong or with too much of the Valerian
flavour. I fancy this desirable P»ony will shortly
be cheaper, and nothing, one would think, can
then bar its wide cultivation.

Silene chromodonta. — In a similar position
as the above Campanula grows a two-year-old
specimen of this rare variety, or possibly species,
and yet it is but 3 inches across. Though so
humble, now it is in flower it is exquisite, and
the very ideal of neatness and purity and what an
alpine in cultivation should be, for do we not find
that many species as seen wild become so greatly
changed under cultivation as to quite change our
ideas of their fitness for our gardens.

Rosa g-lutinosa. — My specimen is three years
old and in its second year in situ. I mention this
because the fact of acclimatisation has always
something to do with periods of flowering. I
have got to make a somewhat bold statement in
regard to this dwarf species, and that is, that it
is by far the earliest Rose to flower of all with
which I have had any experience, which (the ex-
perience) has mainly been with species. The
flowers open this morning must be quite a fort-
night earlier than those of R. rugosa in the same
garden. The flowers are the size of a half-crown,
bright rosy carmine, and powerfully scented in
the way of the old Damascus or the true attar
Rose. The name is a very good one (Sieb. and
Sm.). The whole of the young foliage is not only
sticky, but glistens with the exudation. Stature
of three-year-old plant, 18 inches. Perfectly
hardy.

Saxifraga minuta. — This is worthy of notice,
first because it is quite hardy, next because it is
beautiful, and again because, for all its large
genus, it is peculiarly distinct. It belongs to the

376

THE GARDEN

[June 1, 1895.

same group as rotundifolia, and it is especially in
regard to the members of that set that the fit-
ness of its name comes in, for otherwise it is not
so minute a species as more than a score that
could be mentioned. It is flowering at a stature
of 5 inches, but the radical herbage sits very low.
I have tested it in the past hard winter, and it
has come safely through. The flowers are large,
snow-white, and so full as to seem almost double
in the corolla ; they are laxly borne on stems
beset with bright cherry-red bulbils, originating
independent of flowers. These bright wart-like
organs adhere a long time, and add much to the
decorative value of the frail and succulent plant.
Woodnlh, KirhstaXl. 3. Wood.

IN THE GARDEN IN MAY.
What a wealth of interesting plants one finds
in the hardy flower garden just at present.
Amongst the various yellow-coloured kinds we
have the golden Globe flowers, or Trollius, in-
cluding T. europa-us, pale yellow, and its creamy
white variety, though the latter does not bloom
until the type has almost finished. T. asiaticus
varies in different shades of golden yellow, and is
taller than T. europ;eus. T. asiaticus fl.-croceo is
a deep rich orange. T. Ledebouri and T. Loddigesi
appear to be forms of asiaticus, as is also T. gigan-
teus, whilst T. americanus is very much like a tall
form of europx'us. T. napellifolius is very distinct,
its rich yellow flowers rising profusely G inches
higher than its compact tuft of pretty foliage.
T. acaulis has deep orange, semi-double flowers,
produced singly on sturdy stems only 9 inches
high ; the outer petals, slightly tinged with green,
are toothed at the edges ; this is a very distinct
plant indeed. Caltha palustris fl.-pl. is very
bright just at present, following immediately in
the wake of C. palustris monstrosa, which is
fading as the former commences to flower. Geum
miniatum, G. hybridum, and G. aurcum are also
beautiful ; the two first are different shades of
orange, the latter yellow. A plant very much
like a yellow Geum is Sieversia elata, which throws
up quite a number of spikes bearing numerous
yellow flowers. Chrysogonum virginianum, Arne-
bia echioides, Ranunculus gramiuifolius, R. spe-
ciosus fl.-pl., and Hemerocallis minor or gramiui-
folius are all yellow May-flowering plants, whilst
Lithospermum hirtum and L. canescens should
certainly not be forgotten. These two perennial
( iromwells are perfectly hardy and form tufts of
deep yellow flowers. A good rock shrub is Ber-
beris rubricaulis, like a dwarf form of B. empetri-
formis, with small round yellow flowers.

Amongst Irises I find longipetala in bloom,
with its chaste Orchid-like flowers, the standards
pale blue and the falls heavily pencilled with the
same colour on a white ground, with a touch of
orange towards the base. Iris cristata is a mass
of lovely blue, and a novelty is Iris bosniaca,
which has large pale yellow flowers ; this is a dwarf
rhizomatous sp. and a good plant. Iris macro-
siphon var. flava is scarcely definable, so delicate
is the delicious creamy flower (with its faint
crimson markings), which is borne on a stem 6
inches high, and is well worth the glass protection
which shields it from the severe north-easterly
gales at present prevalent. Another beautiful
Iris in flower now is I. Korolkowi violacea.

Two beautiful fine-foliaged plants are Rodger -
sia podophylla and Podophyllum Emodi ; the
former, with its handsome, bronzy leaves, makes
an excellent pot plant, and as such is very useful
for decoration. The latter has dark green leaves,
prettily marbled with chocolate ; its milk-white
flowers are past and the seed -pods are still green,
but will look when ripe like an egg-shaped Cherry.
Tritoma pauciflora, a very pretty yellow-flowering
sp. with pendulous spikes, and T. Tucki are
May-flowering. A good new plant is Incarvillea
Delavayi, which has a spike 1 foot high with
already two flowers — more to follow, of a bright
rose colour, with yellow throat. The individual
flower is of the same shape almost and quite as
large as that of a Gloxinia, but the throat is more
congested. Trillium grandiflorum deserves all

that can be said of it. T. erectum album is also
very pretty and distinct with its greenish white
flowers, with a conspicuous black pistil. Nym-
phiea Laydekeri rosea opened its first flowers on
May 16 under glass. Cyclamen repandum has a
profusion of bright crimson flowers all through
May. Pedicularis canadensis bears curious, Ajuga-
like heads of flowers, varying in colour from pale
yellow to red. Camassia Cusicki, with its pale
glaucous foliage and grey-blue spikes (3 feet high)
is very handsome. A rare plant is Onosma Bori-
giw, which has pale sulphur-coloured flowers, borne
on a very robust spike. Eremurus Elwesianus,
opening its first few flowers on an already 9-foot
spike, promises a great deal of beauty for some
time to come, considering that the flower part of
the spike is quite 3 feet long. A good dwarf Lupin
is nutk;enus, only 18 inches high. Lithospermum
prostratum, notwithstanding the recent severe
winter, has made heroic efforts to recover itself,
and is now in many places a sheet of that exquisite
blue which is also to be found just at present in
Gentiana verna, Myosotis rupicola and, a little
later, in Gentiana bavarica. Arenaria montana,
or, as I believe it to be, Arenaria grandiflora, is
showing visible signs that it is going to be as good
as last season — mounds of the purest white. Some
of the Pa;ony tribe are also in flower. P. Wit-
manniana has a few of its pale yellow flowers, but
they have been a trifle damaged by the wind.
A bed of P. tenuifolia is magnificent, num-
bers of its crimson flowers resting upon a
cushion of the most finely cut and elegant foliage.
P. decora elatior is a handsome plant, with large
rosy crimson flowers and very distinct and orna-
mental foliage. P. peregrina compacta is also a
very good plant. Amongst Dodecatheons may be
found Jeffreyanum, integrifolium, Clevelandi and
meadia in variety. D. Clevelandi iB very distinct,
pushing up its pale green leaves very early, and
now its spike of pretty dark centred flowers with
white upturned petals tinged more or less to-
wards the tips with rose. The varieties of Phlox
setacea and other rock kinds, Aquilegia ccerulea,
A. canadensis, and A. flabellata alba are pretty.
The last only grows 1 foot high, and has white
flowers with a slight tinge of blue in them. Many
mossy Saxifrages, Scillas of the campanulata and
pyramidalis section, Centaurea montana in blue,
white, sulphur, red, purple, and flesh colours are
also in bloom. Mertensia alpina has flowers some-
thing like those of M. sibirica, but the habit
is totally different. Pentstemon Menziesi that
has stood out all winter is now bearing its
dark blue flowers. Silene pennsylvanica, in habit
like S. virginica, but dwarfer, with its pale pink
flowers, is very pretty, and amongst the Candy-
tufts might be mentioned a very dwarf compact-
growing species called Iberis pinnata, which only
rises a few inches above the ground and forms
quite a snowy cushion.

These and many others after the severe winter
we have just experienced prove conclusively that
there is a great deal in hardy plants. G.

Neiery.

value for double seedling Narcissi. I would, how-
ever, suggest to Mr. Cornhill that he is to some
extent wasting time and talent in employing the
Tenby Daffodil so largely as a seed orpollen parent.
This kind may do well in his particular soil and
climate, and it is true that it is most useful and
pretty where it succeeds. But it has been most
disappointing to a great many growers, private
and professional, the plant dwindling and dying
out in many soils. I could tell Mr. Cornhill of
large trade growers who have either lost their
stock or kept it only by frequent exchange and
importation of fresh bulbs. In my own district it
will not live in cultivation, keeping in fair health
without increase on grass only ; and I have long
since ceased to use it for pollen or seed. In cross-
ing Tenby and cernuus, Mr. Cornhill is marrying
two feebly or uncertainly constituted parents,
and the offspring, though it may be pretty in his
own garden, is not likely to be of permanent value
in gardens at large. — G. H. Engleheart, Andover.

Calochorti. — It would be well for all lovers of
flowers to see a bed of Calochorti at this present
moment, and to become aware of the ease with
which they can be grown. I have acted strictly
on information which was given to me by Mr. W.
Wallace at Colchester, and I can now substantiate
everything he said. The great point is to give
them a good long season of rest, and as you have
to do with bulbs this is very easily managed by
taking them out of the ground after they have
blossomed and keeping them in a drawer for ten
or twelve weeks. This makes all the difference,
in the world to them in point of success. They
should have very light soil, of which leaf mould
and sand are two constituent parts, and I am told
(this, however, did not come from Mr. Wallace)
that they do better in shallow soil than in any
other, and that it ought not to exceed a depth of
7 inches or S inches. They need very little
attention, and their bright colours, fantastic
shapes and delicate markings are always much
admired. — K.

Narcissus culture in the Isles of Scilly

(page 356). — The total run of the ten houses at 'fresco
utilised for the forcing of Narcissi should have been
given as 1500 feet instead of 15,000 feet.— S. W. F.

Seedling Daffodils. — Mr. J. Cornhill's note
(p. 338) is of much interest as touching upon the
raising from seed of double Narcissi. This has
apparently been thought very difficult ; at all
events, it has been but little practised. But some
double kinds, e.g. , the old Telamonius plenus, or
double yellow of gardens, commonly both yield
fertile pollen and show a perfect stigma. I have my-
self raised and flowered seedlings, both crossed and
uncrossed, from the double yellow and the double
cernuus. The latter inherit a weak constitution,
and are beautiful, but valueless. But from the old
double yellow Daffodil I have, just as Mr. Cornhill
has, some strong and handsome seedlings. My
best are flowers from the double yellow fertilised
by pollen of N. poeticus ornatus, and are prac-
tically new forms of double N. incomparabilis.
There is probably a future of some interest and

BALSAMS.
Mr. W. B. HemsleV mentions in a paper of his
on the vitality of seeds in Nature that Balsam
plants are credited with producing more double
flowers when the seed is old. Experience has
shown this not to be strictly exact. Doubleness
comes chiefly from strain, and although poor cul-
ture, by somewhat starving the plants in a young
state, may conduce to the production of imperfect
double blooms, yet, as a rule, seed of the freshest
reproduces its kind even of the most double de-
scription of flowers. Some years since I used to
grow Balsam plants in very large quantities,
occasionally a portion from new imported seed to
obtain new colours, but generally from own-saved
seed of the previous year, and always found the
product to be of the finest double form. That is,
I think, too, general experience ; indeed, it is
doubtful whether the great bulk of Balsam seed
sold annually in this country and at once sown is
not of the previous year's crop, and everyone
must admit that we have in this way the finest
double flowers on Balsams conceivable. Once
such a favourite pot plant, the common double
Balsam has had to give place to Begonias,
Gloxinias, and other more gorgeous plants. Still
few of the novelties can produce such a pleasing
handsome tree-like plant as comes under good
culture from the Balsam. The natural habit is
pyramidal and branching, the flowers and foliage
well balanced, and if branches seem too thick the
smaller ones can easily be thinned. In this
way in a comparatively short time with but
a little or even no artificial heat and in
S-inch pots it is possible to have plants
that are from 20 inches to 24 inches in height,
of admirable proportions, and most beautifully
flowered. Individual Balsam blooms may not be
very graceful, but the plants if well grown when
in full bloom are very much so. The branches
are not, happily, adapted for cutting, hence these
plants are usually spared that treatment which
falls to the lot of so many other things. Balsams,

June 1. 1895.1

THE GARDEN

377

too, give us great variety. I once grew eighteen
distinct varieties according to the colourB or mark-
ings of the flowers ; it is very likely there are even
more now in commerce. Still, a collection of some
twelve distinct varieties suffices for all ordinary
purposes. The self colours are the most effective,
especially white, pink, magenta, scarlet, violet,
and there are some pleasing Carnation- naked and
speckled varieties too, and these have their ad-
mirers. Not many persons seem to appreciate
Balsams as bedding plants, and yet well grown
and upon a carpet of some neutral tints they are
wonderfully pretty. I always found the best re-
sults from plants allowed to become very stout,
then transplanted direct from the frame to the
open ground. When first put into small pots
and later turned outof these with balls of soil and
roots the usual effect was to produce massive
bushes of branch and foliage, but not much bloom.
Balsams grown outdoors on good soil are very long
bloomers, and if put out thinly on to a base of
some dwarf plant, showoff their individual features
admirably. For this form of culture I prefer to
sow seed in a cold frame or greenhouse about the
first week in April, and thinly. The seedlings
should be well exposed to light and air when a
few inches in height, so that when planting-out
time comes they may be some 6 inches high and
have stout stems to resist the attacking slugs.

A. D.

THE ROCK GARDEN.

IX.

May 23. — The hot weather has been followed
by cooler temperature, but, nevertheless, the
number of rock plants now in bloom is very
great. I will not, therefore, attempt to give
anything like a complete list of the flowers
which have opened last week, but will men-
tion only the best of those I have observed.
As in my previous notes, the flowers here
mentioned as being in bloom are only such as
have been kept out of doors all the winter,
and are mostly growing in various rock gar-
dens in different parts of this county (Devon),
and although in tome cases the flowers may
have opened prematurely and in others a little
later than their usual season, the names given
will, on the whole, give a fair idea of the
kinds that are blooming together, and might
in the rock garden be grouped together with
good effect.

Choice Plants.

As the smallest and choicest plants deserve
the most prominent positions in the rock
garden, I will mention them first. The follow-
ing were blooming here in Exeter during the
past week : Dianthus intermedius, D. alpinus,
Androsace cylindrica, A. glacialis, Myosotis
rupicola, Edraianthus serpyllifolius, Haberlea
rhodopensis, Ranunculus Thora. As none of
these are fast growers, they may be planted
closely together. The first named, Dianthus
intermedius, is a very rare and distinct variety,
somewhat resembling D. glacialis, but it seems
more compact and free flowering. Dianthus
alpinus is more generally known, and though
by no means a rare plant, its large bright
pink flowers, produced in masses on very short
stems, are so beautiful, that this species will
always be considered a "gem of the first water"
even in the most select part of the rock garden.
It is a decided lover of limestone, and the soil
should receive an abundant admixture of that
material. Androsace cylindrica is decidedly
rare. It is only 2 inches or 3 inches high, and
its small white flowers are produced on slender,
hairy stems. The plant referred to has for the
last two years occupied a narrow crevice filled
with little soil, but an abundance of limestone
chippings, and on the west side of a rock. Its
flourishing condition in that position proves

that it is well suited. Androsace glacialis
seldom lasts more than two or three years, but
it is an exceedingly pretty plant for the select
part of the rock garden. Its native home is
near the glaciers, and it requires, therefore, a
cool position in the rock garden on the north
side of a rock, but so placed that it can receive
plenty of light without the direct sunshine at
noon. The flowers are white, changing to light
mauve. Myosotis rupicola is a very dwarf kind
of Forget-me-not ; its flowers are close to the
ground and of a deep azure-blue. It thrives
well on a level position. Edraianthus serpylli-
folius should be planted sideways in a sunny
position into an upright fissure where complete
drainage would be ensured. It is, perhaps, the
best of all the genus, its flowers being larger
and of a brighter purple-blue than those of its
congeners, which are not due to bloom till later
on. Haberlea rhodopensis resembles a Ra-
mondia and should receive similar attention,
i.e., planted not upright, but sideways into a
shady crevice filled with moist, spongy soil.
Its flowers are of a bright mauve colour and
very handsome. Ranunculus Thora is more
curious than really pretty, but it is certainly
very distinct from any other Ranunculus. The
leathery, kidney-shaped leaves are compara-
tively large and more conspicuous than the
small yellow flowers.

Dwarf Rock Plants now in Bloom.

Beautiful rock plants of every description are
blooming so numerously this week, that scarcely
a shade of colour can be mentioned which is not
represented by dwarf plants in the rock garden,
without counting plants of medium and large
size adorning the rougher parts and margins of
shrubberies. All the plants here mentioned
are actually in bloom at the time of writing,
and as colour is a matter of first importance in
the artistic grouping of plants, I will enumerate
them according to their colour, and add here
and there such brief cultural notes as space will
permit.

White FLOWERS in bloom. — White appears
to be the prevailing colour this week, and in
most rock gardens that same colour is equally pre-
dominant. Astragalus hypoglottis albus trails
close to the ground like a miniature Vetch.
Anacyclus Pyrethrum forms a carpet of quicker
growth ; it has finely-divided leaves and white
composite flowers with deep yellow disc. Ar-
meria maritima alba (the white Thrift) is too
well known to need further description. Erinus
alpinus albus is an excellent rock plant, specially
suited for dry rocks and sloping positions. An-
drosace coronopifolia is only biennial, but fre-
quently seeds itself. Androsace lactea is more
compact and requires less space. Anthemis
Aizoon, with its silvery leaves and handsome
large white flowers, is one of the very best rock
plants and requires a dry, sunny position. Saxi-
fraga capillaris and Saxifraga Tazetta are very
much alike ; they have round, entire leaves, each
about half an inch in diameter, and white flowers
on stems about 6 inches high, well adapted for
a moist, level spot ; and the same position would
suit S. tenella and S. arguta. Of the encrusted
section I have mentioned many in previous notes.
Saxifraga paradoxa and S. intacta minor are
among the best of the new arrivals. Papaver alpi-
numisanexcellentrockplantand its large flowers
mix well with other colours ; it frequently seeds
itself and likes a sunny position. Nocca alpina
is a small crucifer with a carpet of dark green
leaves. Another pretty crucifer is Kernera saxa-
tilis var. Boissieri, only a few inches high, and
with ovate lanceolate leaves. Very handsome
rock plants are also Ranunculus Seguieri,
Achillea Clavennie, with large silvery leaves,
and the very dwarf Arenaria tetraquetra.

Red. — Armeria maritima Laucheana and A.
maritima (Veitch's variety) are excellent rock
plants, especially the latter, which has flower-
heads of the brightest crimson. In a rocky
border the scarlet Delphinium nudicaule is
conspicuous, while in a sunny spot among the
rocks Anthyllis montana has its red flowers
conspicuously contrasted by its silvery foliage,
and in a half- shady corner Cortusa Mathioli
nods its head of purplish crimson flowers.
Noteworthy plants of smaller size are Lychnis
alpina and Lychnis pyrenaica, both doing well
in small crevices. Papaver alpinum rubrum,
the red form of the alpine Poppy, is also very
handsome.

Pale pink. — A useful rock plant of this
colour is Asperula carpathica, which forms
spreading tufts about G inches high and does
well among the rocks. Alsine rubra is some-
what similar, and will grow in very poor,
stony soil. Leiophyllum buxifolium is a
minute shrub, very compact in habit. Many
pale pink varieties are also contained among
the dwarf Phloxes still in bloom. Geranium
cinereum and Geranium argenteum should be
in every rock garden, especially the latter,
whose compact silvery foliage shows the flowers
to greater advantage. Both love a sunny
place. Antennaria dioica also makes a silvery
carpet.

Yellow. — Yellow was most abundant among
the rock plants of a few weeks ago, but this week
it is not well represented, at least not among the
smaller kinds of rock plants. Several plants
mentioned a week or two previous are still in
bloom, but among new arrivals this week I have
only noticed the well-known Cypripedium
Calceolus, which does well in stony soil, Poten-
tilla sabarda and Ranunculus speciosus. The
last has large double flowers and is more suit-
able for rocky borders or margins of groups for
larger plants.

Blue. — Linuni alpinum with its large pale
blue flowers is very attractive, as are also the
prostrate Veronicas now blooming, viz., V. ru-
pestris and V. alpina. The Globularias, too,
deserve attention, their globular heads of deep
blue flowers on erect stems being very striking.
The varieties now fully expanded are G. tricho-
santha, G. vulgaris and G. cordifolia. Polemo-
nium humile is an excellent dwarf and compact
form well suited for level spots among the rocks,
and lastly I would mention that glorious alpine
Columbine, Aquilegia alpina.

Orange. — The only orange-coloured flowers
this week are Rhodiola linifolia and Erigeron
aurantiacus.

Mauve. — This colour is well represented by
the many dwarf Phloxes stillin bloom. Geranium
lancastriense also deserves notice, its striped
flowers being very attractive ; and last, but not
least, I would mention that charming Himalayan
Androsace, A. sarmentosa, without which no
rock garden is complete, and which thrives luxu-
riantly if planted in a sloping position, and so
arranged that its rosettes of leaves rest on stones
and not on the soil.

Purple. — Ramondia pyrenaica planted side-
ways into an upright fissure on the shady side
of the rock presents a beautiful picture. Erinus
alpinus, on the other hand, does best in a dry,
sunny position. Of dwarf plants with purplish
blue flowers and suitable for massing few are
better adapted than the glorious alpine Asters,
Aster alpinus and its varieties, A. a. superbus,
and A. a. speciosus, while for a dwarf carpet
of deep purple Calamintha alpina is well adapted.
A very choice plant is also Polygala Channebuxus
purpurea, which does best in moist peat on the
shady side of a rock.

378

THE GARDEN.

[June 1, 1895.

Medium-sized Plants in Bloom.

Before closing my notes on the flowers bloom-
ing this week, I will briefly mention a few
larger plants more suitable to the bolder or
rougher part of the rock garden or for borders
than for planting on the rocks themselves.
Among those blooming now are various kinds
of Dodecatheon (purple, mauve, lilac, and
white), which do best in deep moist ground ;
Geranium sanguineum, red ; Geranium En-
dresi, with large mauve flowers ; Polemonium
reptans, blue ; Geum miniatum, orange ; Geum
pyrenaicum, yellow ; Convallaria majalis rosea,
C. m. foliis aureo-striatis, and Dianthus hy-
bridus Marie Pare, white.

K.retcr. F. W. Meyer.

(To be continued.)

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Colour in pleasure grounds. — Those

pleasure grounds. — Those who
were responsible for the laying out and planting
of many pleasure grounds in bygone days made
as a rule provision for a great preponderance of
greenery, so that the present generation has to
put up with a maximum of foliage and a
minimum of flower unless they are able to
cut out the one and replace with the other.
This bygone style of planting is the more regret-
table in the case of those pleasure grounds that
are rather thickly wooded and that have a fair
amount of lawns. In such cases Laurels in variety
and all evergreen shrubs whose flower is unimpor-
tant should only be scantily represented. Where
flowering plants were introduced in these old
pleasure grounds it is generally found that they
are dotted here and there as isolated specimens
among banks of evergreens instead of being
grouped together in fairly large clumps so that
they make a bold and effective display. The
result of such a style of planting where labour is
somewhat scarce (and the pleasure ground is the
first place to suffer) is that these solitary flower-
ing plants are apt to be so crowded by the
surrounding foliage, that they are drawn up into
long weedy -looking specimens that are not easily
again restored into nice bushy stuff. I had an
experience of this kind with a lot of hardy Azaleas
some years ago, and draw attention to the matter
now, because this is a good time so soon as they
are out of flower to take any such weedy plants in
hand. Extra room may be made for them by
clearing away common foliage on either side, then
long side 3hoots maybe brought down with strong
pegs as near to the ground as they may be required,
using care in the operation to avoid splitting or
breaking. The operation may be repeated if
possible every second year, and the result will be
not only well-furnished plants, but such an exten-
sion of the same on either side as to give a greatly
increased breadth of colour to brighten up the
surrounding greenery.

Carnations. — The border Carnations are throw-
ing up their flower-stems, and a little support will
soon be necessary if the weather should prove at
all rough. Where several stems are showing (not
a very common occurrence this season) I like to put
a thin stake down as near the centre as possible,
and after fastening the matting to the same, to
draw the stems loosely together, the result being
support to the flowers and the avoidance of stiff,
formal tying. Heavy-flowered Pinks, as Ernest
Ladhams, will also need support. The above re-
marks as to the avoidance of formality in staking
and tying are applicable to all herbaceous plants ;
indeed, the less of this work that is done the
better, and a great point is the encouragement in
all plants of strong, vigorous growth, so as to
obviate the necessity for support. A great deal
naturally depends on the season. In some years
one cannot do without the support — in 1894, for
instance, when strong winds and heavy, driving
rains had a tendency to beat down nearly every
plant that had not a stake of some kind. When
there is an hour to spare, it will be well to get the

soil mixed for layering Carnations, but if the
plants are rather close together, and one is likely
to be obliged to get about among them a great
deal in order to secure the flowers, it is not ad-
visable to put the new soil on until the flowering
season is nearly over. Also if the situation is dry
and the weather seems likely to prove hot and dry,
it is better to put a comparatively thin layer of
the new soil nearly all over the beds rather than
high heaps immediately round the plants. If the
stock of Pinks is to be increased, and one cannot
well have too many of such fine sorts as Snow-
flake, Her Majesty, and E. Ladhams, a bit of soil
may be prepared for the cuttings and placed in
an extemporised frame. Such a frame, both in
the case of Pinks and Violas, is very handy, so
that one can shade in hot sunshine until rooting
has commenced. I prefer the cuttings of both
Pinks and Violas on a south border with a little
shade if necessary rather than on a north border.
The result has been far from satisfactory on the
latter site given a damp, chilly, sunless time after
the insertion of the cuttings.

Bedding out. — Our beds and borders have
been gradually so filled up with hardy plants, that
what is known as bedding out has been reduced
to a minimum, and the work is nearly finished.
In some beds of Violas the only work necessary
has been the dotting in of an occasional large
plant of Fuchsia, or where other things have been
mixed with them for a spring show, as, for in-
stance, Saxifraga umbrosa, and a very charming
bed this makes associated with a dark purple
Viola ; the Saxifrage is removed to be replaced
by something else that will be likely to make a nice
combination for the summer months. Dactylis
glomerata is one of the specially good things. One
or two hardy, or hardy and half-hardy combina-
tions that were a success last year are similarly
planted for the present season. One is clumps of
the variegated Digraphis filled in with crimson
Antirrhinum. This, it may be noted, is a mixture
eminently suitable for poor soil beds, the grass
under such conditions preserving its variegation
in a pronounced form well through the season,
and the Antirrhinum flowering with great pro-
fusion. Another rather pleasing contrast will be
found in Spiraea palmata alba on a groundwork
of Petunia compacta, a dwarf striped variety
that wants hardly any pegging, and that makes
an admirable carpet for things of taller growth,
as the white Spira-a. Apropos of this family,
what a difference there is in the habit of growth
of different varieties. Some form large clumps
quickly ; others, as astilboides, are a long time
making a clump of any size even on a cool,
partially shaded border. Petunias rank among
the best of summer bedding plants of trailing
habit, and besides the nana compacta strain I
grew last year Giant of California and Carter's
Blue, which were respectively decidedly satisfac-
tory in the positions assigned them. The free-
flowering Tropa'olums, those that give a plentiful
supply of flower on comparatively scanty foliage,
are also satisfactory and seem to be increasing in
favour. A very nice bed on a large scale can be
formed with blocks of the small white-flowered
Marguerite filled in with the trailing Ball of Fire
Tropa-olum. In yellows, Mrs. Clibran is a capital
variety, its peculiar deep orange shade being, I
think, almost unique in outdoor summer- flowering
plants. Another hardy bed that will presently be
hard to beat and that has indeed been gay for
some time is planted with alternate blocks of
Gypsophila paniculata and Montbretias, the
latter on a carpet of Phlox setacea. It is, by the
way, as well to examine the Gypsophila early in
the season before growth commences, and, if
necessary, to lift healthy crowns, divide, and
replant to make up for losses. Many crowns
have altogether disappeared this season. The
flowers of the alpine Phloxes will soon be over, and
if an increased stock is required, cuttings may
soon be inserted. I generally put them in the
frame that is made up for Pinks and Violas, and
they get a little shade for a time after their
insertion. Poor, bare slopes might with advantage
be furnished with these Phloxes, as they always

give a nice green carpet, and truly in the flower-
ing season they are veritable sheets of bloom.
Claremont. E. Burr ell.

The common Bugle.— One of the prettiest
things in my garden is a mass of the common
Bugle (Ajuga reptans). Apparently self-sown, it
came up two or three years ago in an odd corner,
where it interfered with nothing, and spreading
over the surface of the soil forms a mass of spikes
of bright blue. It shows the bronze-tinged foliage
peculiar to it. and which contrasts well with the
colour of the blossoms. Some would probably be
inclined to spurn it as a common weed, but it is
pretty enough to rank among cultivated plants.
— R. 'D.

Viola Blue Bell. — When at Syon Gardens,
Brentford, a few days ago, I found Mr. Wythes
was using this variety somewhat extensively as
an edging to his summer flower beds. Mr.
Wythes holds that for compactness of habit, free-
dom and continuity of bloom, and non-liability
to mildew, it is the best of the Violas for this
purpose. Seeing this variety, which originated as
a chance seedling, was sent out in 1873, it may
be regarded as one of the oldest in cultivation,
and it can be found in many gardens. I have raised
a goodly number of seedlings from it, but have
never exactly reproduced the variety itself, though
possibly others may have succeeded in doing so-
A Viola that can hold its own for nearly a quarter
of a century must possess good qualities in the '
face of the many hundreds of seedlings raised with-
in the last twenty years. — R. D. ■

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1016.

CYCLAMEN PERSIC CJM.

(with a coloured plate of c. salmon
queen.*)
Not in every instance does the real lover of
horticulture follow in the footsteps of the
ardent florist as regards the beautiful. The
ideal standard of the lattei is more frequently
than not based upon lines that cannot be ac-
cepted from the point of true beauty. It is no
small wonder, therefore, that a divergence of
taste ensues. As an instance, no better example
can be given than that of the show Dahlia as
contrasted with the present-day forms of the
Cactus varieties ; the latter are infinitely more
attractive than the former, whilst as regards
choice for use in a cut state, those of the show
type have no chance with those of the Cactus
class. With respect to the present-day race of
Cyclamen persicum there is not this division,
the improved forms being in every sense supe-
rior to the older ones. These divide them
selves into two classes, but in both instances
the beautiful predominates over and above any
of the hard and fast lines of the florist. It is
not an easy matter to say which of the two
sections is more to be admired — that designated
the giganteum, or that known as the older form
— as regards growth. Both are very free-flower-
ing, the latter being on the whole the more
compact in habit, whilst again the foliage of
both is beautifully marked, that of the gigan-
teum type being the more imposing.

The illustration affords an instance of the
advance that has been made from point of
colour, the name conveying at once the best
description of this. When the writer first saw
the plants that were exhibited by the Messrs.
Sutton and Sons, of Reading, at one of the

* Drawn for The Garden in Messrs. Sutton's
nursery at Reading by Miss Low. November 12, 1894.
Lithographed and printed by Guillaunie Severeyns.

June 1, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

379

earlier meetings of the R.H.S. this past spring,
the impression was at once stamped upon the
mind of its thoroughly distinct colour, and its
other equally good properties of free-flowering,
compact habit, and beautifully marked foliage.
These alone form a trio of good qualities that
it would be difficult to surpass. A further
opportunity was afterwards afforded of inspect-
ing the larger quantity as growing in one of
the Cyclamen houses at Reading, when the
first impressions were more than confirmed.
This particular shade of colour was seen to
better advantage under the clearer atmosphere
of Reading as contrasted with that which per-
vades the Drill Hall on most occasions. One
other of its good qualities should be noted, viz. ,
that of producing its flowers well above the
foliage.

Salmon Queen being now placed in commerce,
is within the reach of all lovers of these
charming spring flowers, amongst which it will
take a foremost place, being quite unique in its
good properties. Other Cyclamens in great
variety are grown at Reading for seed alone,
the stock of which in each instance is as pure as

safely added ere they ceased to flower. This
fact of extended blooming, combined with the
large blossoms produced upon stout footstalks,
points to this race as the very finest for supply-
ing cut flowers. Giant Crimson, White, Cherry
Red, Rose, Purple, and Crimson and White are
all most distinct in their colours, it being a
difficult matter to say which is the finest of
these.

The Culture
pursued at Reading does not materially differ
from that in usual practice. The seed is sown
in November, the pans being kept in a tem-
perature of from oo° to 60\ Earlier sowing is
advised if less heat is given. Pricking off takes
place in March, when for a short time the tem-
perature ranges as high as 76° to 80°, the spent
hotbeds in frames being the next move, no rest
being given. Note, however, should be made
of the all-important fact that the seed is sown
with the greatest possible care, each seed being
treated separately at a distance apart of from
lj inches to 2 inches. This is an item of cul-
ture of which it is difficult to make too much ;
it prevents the check — slight though it may be

A white Cyclamen.

it is possible for distinct strains to be. Of
these, particular note should be made of Vul-
can, which has flowers of the deepest crimson, a
colour that looks very rich under artificial
light. In decided contrast to the foregoing
that of Butterfly should be noted ; this is quite
a gem among the white forms, having no rival
from the points of beauty and utility ; the
growth is very dwarf, the foliage being only of
medium size, in addition to which the flower-
stems are so sturdy as to require no staking
whatever. The petals of this particular variety
are quite notable by their breadth, so much so
as to be quite overlapping. Purple Queen is a
selection from Salmon Queen, differing only in
point of colour, thus possessing a better consti-
tution than most varieties of this shade.
Roseum album greatly resembles Butterfly,
with the addition of a crimson base.

The giant forms are kept by themselves. An
intensely vigorous growth with large flowers in
the greatest profusion characterises this section.
Another feature, and that an all-important one,
is the length of time these remain in perfec-
tion ; when seen the plants had been in bloom
for three months, and another three could be

— that is occasioned by an early pricking off
into pans or boxes, this being entirely avoided.
When done, however, each little corm is lifted

' with sufficient soil and roots to keep the growth
progressing, no resting period being given until
the seed is harvested ; after which a selection is

[ made of the most promising corms for the
second year, more to make a display and to
demonstrate what may be done than anything

I else. Large pots are studiously avoided, the
second year plants being flowered in 0-inch and
7-inch pots, those of the first year in the next

; smaller size. Southron.

Double Daisies. — These pretty spring flower-
ing plants appear to be somewhat neglected by
gardeners, though they can be made of great
service in the spring garden. There are the dark
and pale crimsons, several shades of pink and
forms of the double white, all plants of a hardy
character, easily propagated, but requiring only a
little attention. There should be two periods
of planting for the double Daisy — in October,
when the}' are put out in the spring beds, and at
the end of May or early in June, when they are
taken up to make room for the summer occupants.
Then the plants should be divided and planted

out in a cool, shady place, to grow into size by the
autumn, planting deeply and treading them firmly
into the soil. If neglected during summer, the
plants soon suffer. How seldom one sees the
variegated -leaved variety aucubtefolia, one of the
most charming and effective of early spring-
flowering plants. It is an interesting process to
raise seedlings. I have a line raised from seed of
the double white, nearly all fully double, and some
bearing finely-formed blossoms, smaller than those
of the ordinary cultivated type. — R. D.

The Week's Work.

FRUIT HOUSES.
Early Figs in pots.— Fruit of pot Figs forced
early will now be getting smaller, and the plants if
not too large and rooted into the plunging ma-
terial will do much better if removed to a cooler
house. Some varieties fruit much later than
others, and may now be in full bearing. These,
of course, will require to be kept growing freely
and the shoots stopped for the production of later
fruits. For early forcing in pots the St. John's
and Pingo de Mel are far ahead of older varieties
and require special treatment, such as early ripen-
ing of the wood, repotting during the resting
period, and standing in the open in a sunny posi-
tion during the summer months. Such well-
known kinds as Brown Turkey, Negro Largo, and
Bourjassotte Grise are now perfecting their second
crop, and will make much later growth than the
white-fleshed varieties named above. Ample
supplies of food and moisture should be given,
and the new strong wood kept hard stopnsd to
induce a short-jointed growth. The plants of
all varieties in pots which have been forced should
be mulched at this date. In the case of the
earliest kinds it is well to either plunge in the
border or in larger pots when the plants are being
hardened off, as they soon suffer if the sun shines
directly on the pots. There should be no lack of
water and food also in the way of liquid manure
during the summer months, it being advisable to
retain the old foliage as long as possible. Plants
infested with scale should be cleansed after the
fruits are gathered, and care taken to preserve
the leaves. If not badly attacked, thorough
syringing and a fine brush will remove the pest.
Large old trees that have been many years in
brick borders or restricted areas should get un-
limited supplies of food if swelling a second crop,
and be treated as advised for smaller pot plants.
It is surprising what heavy crops these plants
produce annually with ample surface dressings
and rich food. Pot plants will bear three crops
if required ti do so, but I do not advise this, as
it weakens the early crop for next season. Those
who intend to force hard next year would do well
to get the wood well matured after the second
crop, removing any fruits which show, and if the
trees are movable, removing later on into the
open.

Planted-out succession Figs. — These will now
be finishing the first crop in many houses, and re-
quire care to keep the smaller fruits moving
rapidly whilst the first crop is finishing. It is
well to go over the trees early in the day and
gather any ripe fruits, as syringing soon spoils
them. Should there be any doubt as to ripeness,
it is well to omit syringing and allow the fruits
to hang a little longer. Stopping and feeding
will be the chief points of culture, and if the trees
have filled their allotted space and cannot be ex-
tended, the treatment may be varied. Instead of
laying in the wood the large shoots may be
pinched in the same way as those of pot trees, and
thus abundance of fruiting spurs be obtained, re-
moving useless spray or weak wood. Should the
trees be old with any barren or naked branches, it
is well to lay in a reserve of young wood, cutting
out the old naked wood when the crop is cleared.
Select the best formed shoots and stop hard back
the lateral growths not required for extension,
laying in the latter their full length. At this

380

THE GARDEN.

[June 1, 1895.

season scale makes its appearance on old trees,
and should be taken in hand as soon as it shows
itself, as if allowed to spread to this year's growth
it is difficult to eradicate. When the pest shows
on the old wood it is readily removed with a soft
brush dipped in paraffin solution or methylated
spirits, and syringing freely daily will keep it
down. The borders will now need a rich fertiliser.
Young trees are much benefited by a top dressing
of bone meal if fruiting freely. Owing to a short
spell of hot weather the foliage got browned in
exposed houses, and will soon get red spider if
not syringed freely. The colour may readily be
restored and the trees kept clean by syringing
with clear soot water. Varieties such as Negro
Largo with gross wood and too much root-run are
at times barren of fruit, and I have taken strong
measures to get a second crop by cutting a trench
at some distance from the trees and filling in
with concrete. The trees make much shorter
joints, but of course require much moisture, keep-
ing the shoots thin. By this means a good crop
of late fruits is secured.

Late Figs. — Figs grown without heat will this
season be invaluable, as the majority of trees on
open walls have been much injured by the severe
frost and will only fruit sparingly. The trees in
cases or late houses show a great quantity of fruit,
and as they only produce one crop the fruits
should be regulated accordingly, removing any
badly placed ones and thinning where too thick.
As the fruits are often at the upper portion of the
trees they may be left much thicker there, to check
the upward growth of the trees if much extension
be not required. The best mode of culture for
late trees is by extension. There is never any
difficulty in having abundance of clean bearing
wood on these trees under glass, and it is well to
remove all naked or badly-placed branches.
Young trees required to cover a good space should
not be allowed to carry fruit on the branches left
for extension.

Preparing young Fig trees.— I have found it
well to grow a few young trees in pots yearly to
take the place of old ones which are too large.
As good fruiting plants may be grown in two
seasons it is well to prepare a few yearly for this
purpose. Plants struck very early in the year
will now be in condition to be shifted into 7-inch
or 8-inch pots, and should be potted firmly in
strong loam, to which have been added bone meal
and some old mortar rubble. Plants struck last
season may now be shifted into the fruiting pots,
those 10 inches or 12 inches in diameter being
suitable. In thinning the growths it is well to pay
more attention to those varieties which are
straggling growers, keeping them to one stem and
getting a symmetrical head. Grow as near the
light as possible in a warm house, but do not
force much, relying chiefly upon sun heat during
the day.

Early Melons.— The plantson which nearly ripe
fruit is hanging should be kept moderately dry,
there should be no falling off as regards heat, and
more air will be necessary to obtain good flavour.
On bright Bunny days a constant current of air dur-
ing the day with a free circulation of heat through
the pipes will give ripening fruits the rich aroma
so much liked. In well-heated houses it is advis-
able to leave air on all night when the fruit is
colouring. Watering plants far advanced will
now require more than ordinary care, as in mixed
houses all cannot be treated alike, some varieties
ripening much earlier than others. Many fruits
are ruined as regards flavour by being cut before
the stalk cracks and ripened on shelves. I am aware
one is often obliged to do so to forward Melons, but
I have never tasted a good fruit cut prematurely.
The fruits colour well, but sadly lack the flavour of
those ripened on the plants. The weatherof late has
been most trying to the Melon crop, as after a spell
of brilliant sunshine we have had dull cold
weather, just the reverse required, and bringing
canker and cracking in its train. The plants will
need more than ordinary care, and should the
stems crack it is well to arrest decay as soon as
noticed, using finely powdered charcoal and quick-
lime freely where affected. Plants swelling their

fruits will need liberal supplies of food in the way
of liquid manure, or quick-acting fertilisers given
at alternate waterings.

Melons in frames. — Many are obliged to grow
Melons in frames, and as there is no better time to
plant than now, sturdy clean plants should be
selected for the purpose. Very good Melons may be
grown in pits or frames just cleared of other plants.
The bed should be well rammed so as to have a
firm base, and a small quantity of prepared soil
placed in mounds for the plants, planting out when
the soil is warmed through. 1 have found it a
good plan to grow the plants on a trellis. The
plants supported in this way are freer from canker,
get more light, and are readily attended to. The
fruits, too, are much superior to those resting
on the soil. A good trellis may soon be erected
with Bamboo canes, fixing these 12 inches clear
of 1 he glass, and training two plants one each way
in a light. G. Wythes.

KITCHEN GARDEN.
Planting out Leeks. — These, where required
early in the autumn, have to be sown in heat in
February, and if the plants have been duly
hardened off in frames they will now be ready for
planting out. The best Leeks are obtained from
the trench system, as not only can earthing up be
better accomplished, but feeding also, the trench
holding the liquid manure so that the roots get
the whole benefit of it. Take out trenches similar
to those prepared for Celery, but somewhat shal-
lower, digging into the bottom a good allowance
of rotten manure. Pig manure is the best for
Leeks, and after firming it somewhat and water-
ing if necessary, plant the following day. Sepa-
rate the young plants with great care, as the
tender, succulent roots are easily damaged. Make
holes from 9 inches to 1 foot, plant deepty, allow-
ing the tops (which should be slightly shortened)
to descend a little below the ground level. Cover
the roots and finally water again with a fine rose.
The plants will then take care of themselves until
well above the ground again and in active growth,
when good supplies of liquid may be given, or,
failing this, a good fertiliser sprinkled in the
trench during showery weather, or if dry, watered
home. Leeks in open-air beds must have every en-
couragement to grow ahead. If the plot intended
for this main crop is not yet ready, lose no time in
preparing it. When planting takes place it is a
good plan, where there is a great demand for this
vegetable, to select the smallest roots for planting
on a well-prepared plot rather thickly and in the
ordinary manner. These will be found very use-
ful for soups and other odd purposes during win-
ter. In planting take care that no soil is allowed
to drop into the hearts of the plants.

Roots. — In some districts which have been
favoured with genial rains, thinning in this de-
partment will not only have become general, but
comparatively easy. Even where no rain has
fallen the work must be commenced, or crowding
and consequent weakness must follow. Onions
may be raised with the aid of a pointed stick, and
thus prevented from snapping asunder beneath
the ground. On very hard, baked soils watering
with a rose the day previous to thinning is a
capital plan. Where the dreaded Onion maggot
is likely to be troublesome, thin at first in modera-
tion, as often this pest will attack the bulbs when
of considerable size, and if thinned very freely at
the start the crop by their attacks is greatly reduced.
Bear in mind the importance of using the Dutch
hoe and of frequent sprinklings of soot and guano
in showery weather. The final thinnings of Beet
may now be made, except in the case of the latest
sowings, and where, as is sometimes the case,
blanks have occurred in the rows, they may be
made up in ten days' time by transplanting.
Leave one row thicker at present from which to
secure those for transplanting; raise them care-
fully by the aid of a pointed stick or label, and
plant with a dibber, or if time can be spared,
draw out a trench, moisten it well, and plant the
next day, firming the soil well with the feet. I
have often practised transplanting Beet, andfound
it answer well.

Small seeds. — These are often neglected in dry
soils after sowing ; consequently they fail to
germinate properly, the seedsman being blamed
for poor results. It is a good plan when the seed
bed is in a sunny position to cover it with mats
or bags, first watering it thoroughly, which will
suffice until the seeds come through" the ground,
when the coverings must be removed. Watering
Beveral times weekly will be necessary, and early
thinning when the first pair of rough leaves have
formed. The neglect of these details is often
the forerunner of bolting in the autumn and of
inferior crops generally. After this date thin
sowings of Lettuces and all small- seeded subjects
are best, as there is not much fear of failure pro-
vided a reasonable amount of care is taken.

French Beans. — Some time ago I advised all
who had the convenience to sow a good batch of
Canadian Wonder in 9-inch or 10-inch pots,
placing the same in any light position, not neces-
sarily on shelves, in a cool house, using good rich
material and feeding liberally as soon as growth
was a few inches high. Good tall, Btout branches
will also be needed to support growth, and as
soon as the Beans come into bloom, apply a good
mulch of farmyard manure to the surface of the
pots. This treatment, coupled with a constant
supply of fresh air, will produce astonishing crops
of this Bean, and, provided the foliage is kept
free from spider by rigorous syringings twice
daily, it is surprising how long they will continue
in a bearing state. I have for years grown a good
batch of Canadian Wonder in pots as described,
and find them most serviceable, coming in just
before the frame planted ones, which are treated
quite coolly. These latter may now be also
mulched, as growth will be advanced, but the
nights having turned much cooler, protection
must still be given, nothing being so detrimental
to the well-being of French Beans as cold, dry
winds. Where those have been brought on in small
pots and planted on warm borders, the screens
of Yew or Spruce boughs must not yet be re-
moved. Where Scarlet Runners sown in the open
are now through the surface, the same method of
protection must be adopted. Thinning must also
be carried out where too thick. To those that
were transplanted and have grown 6 inches high,
a little soil may be drawn. A free dusting of
lime and soot or wood ashes should be given at
the same time. Staking may also be done before
there is any fear of the Beans falling about, but
where staked too early the deficiency of light
causes a weakly growth. Some place a row of
sticks on each side of the line, but I do not care
for the plan, preferring a single row of very tall
ones, so as to allow the sun and light to play on
all parts of the foliage and bloom-trusses. After
the uprights have been inserted in the soil, cross
rails must be placed horizontally along them, to
which each must be secured.

J. Crawford.

Orchids.

ORCHIDS AT MR. WM. BULL'S.

Orchids are manifestly so much more popular
than they were a few years ago, that it is not
surprising to find such an exhibition as that in
Mr. Bull's nursery in the King's Road, Chelsea,
visited by thousands during the summer
months. For several years past Mr. Bull has
shown by a superb display of Orchids how
charming and valuable the flower in its many
forms is for decoration, especially as plants ar-
ranged with Ferns and Palms. This year
visitors will find a more beautiful show than
has yet taken place. The large house with its
glass mirrors at the ends reflecting the thou-
sands of flowers never looked more brilliant,
Cattleyas and Lselia purpurata in particular
creating a splendid colour picture, whilst in an-
other house 400 spikes of Odontoglossums can

June 1, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

381

be seen either in full beauty or approaching
that stage.

The arrangement of the Orchids is delightful.
One sees careful contrasts of colour, and how
greatly species differ from each other in form
and shade. A mass of Miltonia vexillaria
arrests attention at the entrance, this Orchid
varying greatly. On the one hand we get a
variety named albescens, the flower of immense
size and almost pure white, whilst hard by is
rubra superba, a neat flower, small, but rich
rose in colour, quite the opposite of the other
in size and colour. A variety of M. Roezli
named splendens is very handsome, the flower
much larger than usual and white, with a dark
blotch at the base of the segments.

One of the chief features of the exhibition
thisyearis Laelia purpurata. The splendid spikes
of finely-coloured varieties stand out con-
spicuously from the mass of other Orchids. They
are superb for strength and beauty of colouring,
some receiving distinctive names such as they
well deserve. Atro-purpurea is one of the most
beautiful, the sepals and petals white, with a
deep crimson-purple lip in strong contrast.
Fulgens is very different from this ; it has quite
rosy purple sepals and petals, with a splendidly
coloured lip, deep yellow in the throat. Picta
has white segments, the lip crimson-purple in
the upper part, white in front, set off by a
lemon-coloured throat — a very charming and
distinct kind. Refulgens was exceptionally fine,
the lip being large, well shaped and of a self
crimson-purple. Bella is another handsome
variety, with white sepals and petals and a pretty
rose-coloured lip ; whilst in a form called mar-
ginata we get a thin white margin to a lip re-
markable for its intense colour, the sepals and
petals of a rose-purple shade. Victoria is a
lovely kind, with pure white sepals and petals
and a deep crimson-purple lip in very rich con-
trast. Many others we could mention, but our
aim is not to create a string of names, rather to
indicate a few of the gems in this collection.

The Orchid lover will note also another
splendid feature — Cattleya Mossise, C. Mendeli
and their respective varieties. C. Mossiie was
distributed in groups on the stages, thus break-
ing up the arrangement satisfactorily, one
getting at the same time a rich mass of colour.
Lawreuceana we made note of as a fine variety,
the segments very broad and the lip with a fine
white edge. Nor must we forget such varieties
of C. Mendeli as Empress, rich in colour and
beautiful in form, or Rex, with white sepals
and petals and purple-rose lip. A lovely Orchid
is C. Schrcederre aurantiaca, one of the most
sweetly scented of all Orchids and charming in
colour — delicate lilac, set off with a rich orange
throat.

Suspended in baskets is the pendent spiked
Odontoglossum citrosmum, a species not difficult
to grow, and represented by several forms.
Punctatum, as its name suggests, is spotted, the
sepals and petals cream colour spotted with lilac,
the lip lilac. Rubrum has quite rose-coloured
flowers, and in other forms colour differences
exist which increase the charm of this beautiful
Odontoglot. The clear self-yellow Oncidium
concolor, its pendent spikes giving a rich gleam
of colour overhead, and the brilliant O. Rogersi
contribute masses of yellow to the display very
different to the quiet-toned O. pulchellum. The
Masdevallias are noteworthy, and one of the
brightest is M. Harryana Comet, the flower well
shaped and bright crimson in colour. Regalis
is deep crimson and one of the handsomest of
all the forms of this type.

A few other things we singled out of this
choice display were as follows : Cypripedium
Mastersianum, C. niveum majus, C. grande,

and C. Curtisi giganteum, all bearing remark-
ably fine flowers, particularly the last mentioned ;
also C. barbatum, a well-known Lady's Slipper,
and which is largely represented. Laslia elegans
Schilleriana is very pretty, the flowers deep
crimson, lemou coloured in the throat. Cyni-
bidium Lowianum concolor is a good variety,
distinct from the well-known species in having
flowers without any crimson colouring. Tricho-
pilia lepida was in fine flower, also the rich
brown-coloured Phaius bicolor and Scuticaria
Hadweni, the flowers deep chestnut-brown,
barred with yellow, the lip white and light
brown. Nor must we omit to mention
Phalamopsis Schilleriana, P. Stuartiana, and
the beautiful P. Luddemanniana, represented by
a very bright and handsome form.

The Odontoglossum house, to which we have
already referred, is a picture of blossom. The
hundreds of racemes are exceedingly graceful,
the majority of the plants being those of
O. crispum (Alexandras) and its varieties.
O. Pescatorei, 0. cirrhosum, O. Halli illustre,
deep brown and yellow, the pretty O. radiatum,
O. polyxanthum, O. ornatum, andO.Andersonia-
num were also represented in this feast of
Odontoglots.

Masdevallia nycterina. — This attracted
much attention at the Temple show recently, a
very large specimen being placed in a conspicuous
position at the corner of Baron Schroder's exhibit.
The plant was growing in a large basket, and was
well furnished with a quantity of erect, oblong,
lanceolate leaves and a considerable number of
flowers, which hang around the basket on short
stems. The flowers, borne singly on the peduncle,
are triangular in shape, the sepals terminating in
slender tails about 2 inches long. These are of a
brownish purple and yellow colour, somewhat
hairy and spotted with black. The species is a
native of New (irenada, where it grows at an
altitude of between 5000 feet and 6000 feet, and
has been in cultivation about twenty-five years. It
was first known as M. Chimara, but was found by
the late Professor Reichenbach to be quite distinct
from that species and was named by him as above.
— W. H. G.

Epidendrum Stamfordianum.— This is an
exceedingly pretty species, especially when seen
so well flowered as was the fine specimen shown
at the Temple by Mr. White, gardener to Sir
Trevor Lawrence, Bart. This plant carried
upwards of a do/en and a half fine branched
spikes, each supporting numerous blooms. These
individually measure about 1J inches across, the
sepals and petals yellow, spotted with red. The
lip is flat, white, with a bright rose spot on the
crest and at the apex of the column, forming a
very pretty combination. This species, although
an old inhabitant of our gardens, is by no means
often seen in bloom. It was originally discovered
in 1S37 in Guatemala by Mr. Ure- Skinner,
growing on the shores of Lake Isabel. Of
this species there is a very pretty variety named
E. Stamfordianum Wallacei, which produces a
somewhat shorter spike, the sepals and petals
being more densely spotted with reddish purple,
the creamy white lip also spotted with the same
colour. — W.

Cattleya Mosaise.— This very showy Cattleya
occupied a foremost rank amongst the numerous
exhibits at the recent Temple show. It is one of
the most variable kinds in the genus as regards
the colour of the lip, scarcely two plants being
exactly alike, although each shows its character-
istic markings. I am in receipt of some fine
blooms from Mr. Joseph Broome, of Sunny Hill,
Llandudno. Number 3 is the best formed
bloom and of rich colour, the sepals and petals
of a deep rosy lilac, the finely fringed lip velvety
purple, and having a distinct white margin.
Number 4 is a paler flower, but much larger,
measuring 9 inches across the sepals, which are
broad and nicely undulated ; the lip large and

crisped, with a yellow throat ; the ground colour
very light, but prettily veined with rosy purple.
The flower with no label is of good form, but
smaller, having dark rose sepals and petals, with
a well expanded lip, measuring 2A inches across,
nearly white, with a few pale rosy veins in the
centre. It appears to me that unless there is
something very distinct in the flowers of this
species it is impossible to give them varietal
names. There are, however, a few varieties which
are very distinct, such as C. Mossiie Reineckiana,
a beautiful plant of which was shown at the above
mentioned exhibition by Messrs. Low and Co., of
Clapton. In this kind the flowers are pure white
with the usual yellow disc, and beautifully veined
down the centre of the lip with purplish carmine.
Another chaste and lovely kind is the pure white
variety named C. Mossi;v VVageneriana, which
was also exhibited in several of the best groups.
Even these plants showed great variability in
the size and form of the flowers, some having
scarcely any yellow in the throat, while in one
plant shown by Baron Schroder the flowers were
of massive size, the large lip heavily shaded
down each side with golden yellow. — G-.

Masdevallia muscosa.— This was named by
Professor Reichenbach in 1875 from dried speci-
mens brought home by Mr. Shuttleworth, who
found it growing in San Domingo, in the province
of Tolima, New Grenada. It is a dwarf-growing
species with deep green leathery leaves, purplish
beneath and about 2 inches high. The flowers
are about three-quarters of an inch in diameter,
with narrow, triangular-formed, pale yellow sepals,
which are prolonged into tails about 1 inch in
length. The lip, which is the most interesting
part, is also yellow, edged in front with maroon-
purple. — W.

MEXICAN L.ELI AS.
The Ltelias from Mexico form a very beautiful
and distinct group, most of which can be
recognised by the pyriform shape of the pseudo-
bulba. These may be generally cultivated
under the same treatment as that usually ad-
vised for Cattleyas. First amongst the Mexican
Lselias must be mentioned the beautiful

L. MAJAIilS, which is considered one of the
most difficult of all Orchids to flower. This to a
certain extent is quite true. In its native habitat
it appears to be very free-flowering, and is known
as Mayflower, thus indicating its natural time of
blooming. At the recent exhibition in the Temple
Gardens I noticed this species in bloom in several
collections. The blooms of L. majalis are not
only exceedingly beautiful, but they are also very
large, measuring about 7 inches in diameter, and,
considering the size of the bulbs, this is truly re-
markable. This Ladia is an old inhabitant of our
gardens, having been imported many j'ears ago.
The flowers are usually produced singly upon a
peduncle, but in well-grown examples I have
sometimes seen two blooms. The sepals and
petals are large, the latter much broader than the
former, and both of a delicate shade of pale rosy-
lilac ; the lip is lighter in colour, sometimes white,
spotted with purple, and with a border of mauve.
The plants should be well elevated above the rim
of the pots or placed on blocks of wood, but they
dislike being disturbed after they have become
established. When, however, repotting becomes
absolutely necessary it should be done with care,
so as not to injure the roots. During the growing
season water should be abundantly supplied, but
when at rest very little is needed so long as the
bulbs remain plump and healthy. The plants
should be suspended near the roof and plenty of
light and air admitted, with a nice moist atmo-
sphere, very little shading being required even
when the sun is very powerful.

L.elia ANCEPS is another fine Mexican kind, and
one that is at present grown in nearly every
collection. It is a most useful plant during the
dull winter months, the flowers ranging in colour
from pure white to rich purple. This species and
its varieties also flower much better after they

382

THE GARDEN

[June 1, 1895.

have been well exposed to the sun and the growths
nicely ripened. It succeeds best upon a block of
wood suspended close to the glass, and thus
occupies but little space. The white-flowered
kinds, which are natives of the Pacific coast,
require a little more warmth to grow them to per-
fection. The flowers of

L.klia furfuracea are also of a very lovely
shade of pale rosy-purple, these individually
measuring between 4 inches and 5 inches in
diameter, and carried several together upon an
erect peduncle. This kind was introduced about
sixty years ago, and is always found growing at
considerable elevations, thus showing that it re-
quires cool treatment under cultivation.

Ljelia albipa, although it has smaller flowers,
is a very charming kind. The blooms, white,
sometimes flushed with rose, the lip having three
bright yellow lines on the disc, are each about 2
inches in diameter, and carried from four to eight
on long slender spikes about 18 inches in length.
Of this kind there are also many varieties, the
flowers of some being of a deep colour, those of
others ranging from pure white to sulphur-yellow.
This plant is also found at an altitude of from
7000 feet to 8000 feet, and under cultivation does
best when placed upon a block and suspended
near the glass.

L-elia rubescens has flowers of similar size to
those of the preceding, and is sparingly spread
over Mexico and Guatemala, the bloom3 white
or shaded rosy-lilac, with a large blotch of rich
maroon at the base of the lip. It has been im-
ported but sparingly compared with the others
above mentioned, but it is a very desirable kind.
It is also known as L. peduncularis.

L.i;lia autumnalis is also a very popular kind>
which (lowers in the autumn and winter months.
This plant produces a spike of from five to nine
blooms, each about 4 inches in diameter and of a
bright rosy-purple, becoming lighter at the base
of each segment. G.

EPIDENDRUM BICORNUTUM.

This is certainly the most beautiful Epidendrum
in cultivation, and a remarkable Orchid in many
respects. It has not been found to live long, the
pseudo-bulbs usually being not so fine after a few
years' growth as when first imported. Neverthe-
less while it lasts its distinct character always
ensures it a host of admirers, and if a little care
is bestowed upon it, one may reasonably expect a
fair return in the way of flowers for five or six
years at least. Possibly the plants while they
last are happier on blocks very lightly dressed
with Sphagnum than in any other description of
compost, but as noted recently when speaking of
Phalamopsids, even the most enduring of wood
will not last long in the moist heat of a tropical
Orchid house. The next best position for this
Orchid is, I am confident, a deep pot filled nearly
to the rim with potsherds, and a layer of living
Sphagnum over this, the plants being placed in
the hottest and most humid house at command.
Newly-imported plants soon push roots in all
directions among the crocks, taking hold of the
sides of the pots and revelling in the moisture
afforded by the superficial layer of Moss without
being hampered in any way by closeness of mate-
rial. A little of the best fibrous peat would no
doubt cause a stronger growth for the first year
or two, but it would probably be at the expense
of the future health of the plant, as the very best
fibre becomes soddened in course of time from the
continuous watering. While growing freely the
species in question is almost aquatic in its needs,
constant damping and syringing overhead being
necessary to keep thrips in check and to maintain
growth. The Moss grows rapidly, often reaching
several inches up the stems, keeping them moist
at the base and tending to the full development
of the hollow fusiform pseudo-bulbs. During
winter the greater portion of this must be re-
moved, as it would hold too much moisture about
the plants. The plants should have the lightest
position available during the winter, and while re-

quiring much less water than during the growing
season, must not be actually dried either in the
atmosphere or at the roots, and the temperature
must never go below 6u°, excepting on the coldest
nights, when it is better to allow a slight drop
than to give too much fire-heat. E. bicornutum
is ascribed to Diacrium by Bentham, but is more
generally known by the former name. Its flowers
are produced on terminal scapes in spring, from
eight to twelve being the usual number borne on
each. The individual blossoms are frequently 2
inches in diameter, of a pure ivory white, except
for a few crimson dots about the labellum. This
has two rather prominent horns, from which the
species takes its name. It is found growing
naturally on bare rocks and tree trunks in Trini-
dad and various other parts of the West Indies,
and was introduced in 1834. The present is its
blooming season, and the flowers last in good con-
dition from a month to six weeks. R.

ARRANGING CUT FLOWERS.

After flowers are cut and brought into the
house their beauty is often marred, and the

this to be considered in gardens of limited ex-
tent. Many of us would be greatly relieved if
those who arrange cut flowers (which at some
seasons of the year have been obtained at a con-
siderable amount of labour and anxiety) would
endeavour to produce a maximum effect with a
minimum of material. In many gardens through-
out the country there are far more flowers grown
for cutting than would be really required if due
economy were practised in arranging them. The

: growth of flowers for the supply of families
during the London season is a serious matter
to the gardener, who would be only too thank-

j ful if they could be made to go farther than
they now do, so that he might have more room
and time to devote to other subjects. This
object could be easily attained in the majority
of cases if those who arrange the flowers did but
study the art of grouping them, selecting those
which blend harmoniously together, both in
form and colour, using just sufficient to give an
effect and natural beauty to the whole. Not
only would the flowers used last much longer,
but they would also give greater satisfaction.

L-> -_-.

Iceland Poppies in a bow}.

charming effect which they would otherwise have
produced is utterly spoilt through bad arrange-
ment. More frequently than not the idea of
most people who arrange flowers seems to be to
stuff as many as they can into any given re-
ceptacle, thereby thinking to show them off to
the best advantage. What a mistake they
make ! and that at the sacrifice of both colour
and form. Again, where several vases have to
be filled, how often do we find one arrangement
a counterpart of the rest — a piece of this and a
bit of that may be seen in each vase. These are
a few of the many instances where the beauty
to be seen in flowers is deteriorated Through
the want of due amount of consideration on the
part of those who have the arrangement of them.
At the present time, when cut flowers are so
much in request and so varied the objects to
which they are applied, it is highly essential to
economise them to the utmost ; especially ought

When cutting flowers, the best plan is to fix
upon what is intended to be used in each given
receptacle, collecting only sufficient of each kind
for the purpose, and avoiding a repetition of the
same arrangement from time to time as much
as the supply will admit of doing. By this
means the flowers can be greatly economised,
leaving, in many instances, a better display in
the garden during the summer and in the
houses throughout the winter months. Theprizes
offered at various horticultural exhibitions
throughout the country have no doubt aided in
a great measure to bring about a better state
of things in the arranging of cut flowers.
Lessons such as those showing the evil results
and the low position in the prize list of those
exhibitors who still adhere to the antiquated
system of crowding flowers together for pro-
ducing effect in floral decorations may often be
learnt on such occasions by all of us. Much,

Joke 1, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

383

however, remains still to be done. The
annexed engraving shows a well-arranged bowl
of Poppies.

Kitchen Garden.

DWARF OR FRENCH BEANS.
In looking through seedsmen's catalogues of
the present day it is surprising how many of
the old favourites have dropped out. A few
seasons ago I made a trial of various kinds to
test earliness, and found the newer kinds supe-
rior. Of course, in a private garden it is im-
possible to grow a large number of dwarf Beans,
so that only a limited selection of sorts can be
made, but I have had opportunities of seeing
large breadths at Chiswick, and think we have
improved the qualities of this vegetable of late
years, as the pods are larger, more succulent,
and less stringy. This is a great gain, as many
persons object to dwarf Beans after the runner
Beans are plentiful, on account of their so soon
getting old and flavourless. This to a great
extent is the fault of the cultivator crowding
the plants and not supplying food and moisture.
In a note on the value of French Beans men-
tion must be made of the new climbing variety.
I consider it a valuable addition, as when the
weight of crop and the space occupied are
taken into consideration it is one of the most
profitable Beans grown. All who are interested
in vegetable culture will welcome this variety.
I feel sure it will hold it« own and become a
standard kind. The value of dwarf kidney
Beans is their free cropping and earliness. They
are not coarse, like some of the newer runner
varieties, which, though much larger, are less
prolific than some of the older types. To get
tender pods, abundance of food and moisture
and plenty of room should be given.

Few crops pay better than early dwarf Beans,
and those who have light sandy soil may get
much earlier crops than those who have a heavy
clay to deal with. I do not advise too early sow-
ing in unsuitable soils ; on the other hand, it
well repays the cultivator to make his land
suitable, as few crops are more appreciated than
early Beans. I have in previous notes pointed
out the value of starting these dwarf Beans in
heat or in cold frames, and when a few inches
high planting them out on a sheltered border,
with protection for a time. Treated thus, few
vegetables give a better return, as the pods are
produced at a season they are in great demand,
and the plants will bear for months if well
watered, grown thinly and fed freely.

As the season for early Beans is now at hand,
a few words as to culture may not be out of
place. Requiring early vegetables in quantity
and having an unsuitable soil, I lost no time
in getting many loads of road scrapings, burning
every bit of garden refuse and carting in any
quantity of old mortar rubble. These compounds
mixed with old leaf soil made just the material
for tender root crops, or those which required
quick drainage whilst the seed was ger-
minating, many early Beans being lost by
too much moisture during that period in
clayey _ soils. Many advise sowing thickly,
but it is a great evil, as the fight for existence
is so severe, that the crop is poor from the start
and soon over. It may be said there are such
losses that thick sowing is a necessity, but such
is not the case, as a few gappy rows can soon
be made good by transplanting. I have found
that by making three sowings, one under glass
for planting out early in May, another at this
season, and another a month or six weeks later,
there is no lack of pods for a long season or till

cut down by frost. I am aware the two main
crop sowings require much food, but if there is
no lack of manure and each plant given room
to develop, there will be no trouble with the
crop if the pods are regularly gathered. I have
gathered three crops from Canadian Wonder
planted out when hard forced. For early crop-
ping few varieties are superior to Ne Plus
Ultra sown early in May in good land. It is
a very fine type of dwarf Bean, of compact
growth, and enormously productive. It is
equally good for forcing very early, and the
pods are of delicate flavour. The earliest Bean
I have grown is Mohawk or Six Weeks, but it
does not yield so long as some varieties. 1
consider this best for early outdoor crops.
The well-known Syon House is always reliable
and valuable for early crops. For summer or
main crops, such varieties as the Negro Long-
pod and Canadian Wonder are the best, but
they require more space, especially the latter.
I prefer to give Canadian Wonder 3 feet be-
tween the rows and each plant quite 10 inches
apart, as this variety if crowded is soon over.
Given space and liquid manure, Canadian Won-
der is a profitable variety. Such varieties as Ne
Plus Ultra and Syon House require less space.
Those who depend upon these Beans for sum-
mer crops should grow them in deeper drills than
those for the earlier sowings, and during growth
the soil between the rows should be mulched
with short manure to retain moisture. This
saves the water-pot, and if the plants during
hot weather can be given a damping overhead
in the evenings there is no lack of pods of the
best quality, while freedom from red spider
which soon attacks crowded plants is ensured.

G. Wythes.

Too many sorts of Potatoes.— I have re-
cently planted no less than seventy -three distinct,
or at least so-called distinct, varieties. That, of
course, seems to be far too many. But then, as
these plantings have been made in very diverse
soils and various parts of the county, and as in no
case does the total number of varieties in one
place exceed twenty-four, the quantity after all
will not seem to be excessive. Most of the well-
known ones have been included, and very many
others hardly known in the county. The object
of the various trials is to enable local residents
interested in Potatoes to see whether there are in
commerce sorts not known to them, but which may
be better adapted for their soils or purposes than are
those at present generally grown, and that should
prove useful in the respective localities. Possibly
out of the whole collection some twenty or so may
be found exceptionally good. — A. D.

Winter Lettuces.— I find the two best Let-
tuces for standing the winter are Dickson's Im-
perial Brown Cos and Black -seeded Bath Cos. I
made a small sowing of the above varieties on
September 29, 1894, and transplanted when large
enough to handle in rows 12 inches apart, and 9
inches from plant to plant, on a west border shaded
by a wall 9 feet high. I did not lose more than
eight plants, the blanks caused being immediately
filled out of the seed-bed. In the middle of April
I tied up almost the half of them, which caused
them to blanch beautifully. I have had a o-ood
supply of nice blanched .'crisp Lettuce, which will
continue for another fortnight or longer, since the
first week in May. — F. Clipstone, Dinghy Gar-
dens, Market Harborovyh.

Parsley. — Where second sowings which are
just through the ground show signs of being
patchy, another sowing may now be made. Indeed,
it is always well to be on the safe side with this
uncertain crop, especially in hot, dry soils. Some-
times wireworm is very troublesome, taking the
young plants wholesale when well advanced.
At this date I would rather select a somewhat
cool situation, as, for instance, in front of espalier

fruit trees, the shade from the trees suiting the
crop well, and yet admitting enough light and sun
to strengthen it. When sown keep the ground
well moistened until the seed germinates ; this
watering is best given in the evening, as then it
has a better chance of acting beneficially than
when applied in the early part of the day. When
evaporation is rapid a little rough litter spread
over the seed row helps to preserve the moisture.
--C. H. N.

Tripoli Onions bolting.— Comparatively few
beds of autumn-sown Onions stood the severe
weather of February, they being so soft and tender,
owing to such a mild temperature previously.
Those that have a few are now troubled with
wholesale bolting, this being due to the many ex-
tremes from warm to cold and from wet to dry
during the present spring. The only remedy is
to go over the bed and pinch out all the flower-
stems low down, and to give the necks a severe
twist. This treatment will often induce the bulbs
to swell out to a good size ; these ought always
to be used first. I have this season proved the
value of Trebons for autumn sowing. The bulbs
here stood the winter and spring better than
those of the Tripoli section, and are now growing
rapidly. The finest white form of Tripoli, and
one which I always grow, is Leviathan. Under
good cultivation this Onion will attain to enor-
mous dimensions, and the flavour is mild. Now
is the time when winter Onions should be doing
their chief work in swelling ; therefore, should
rain be scarce, artificial waterings must be
supplied, first giving the beds a good sprinkling
of a quick-acting fertiliser mixed with a little
soot. — C.

Stove and Greenhouse.

PELARGONIUMS AT LEWISHAM.
The Ryecroft nursery, already famous for its
Chrysanthemums, will soon be noted for other
flowers to which Mr. Jones has now turned his
attention. Judging from the magnificent dis-
play of Pelargoniums we saw there recently,
his efforts in this latter direction have met with
some success, as he is now distributing several
new kinds of great merit, whilst the high quality
of his collection, the good culture shown, and
the profuse display of bloom entitle him to a
place among the most successful growers in the
London district. The show and decorative
races of Pelargoniums have latterly declined in
popularity, which is a pity, as one would think
them altogether indispensable to those who
want their greenhouses and conservatories gay
with bright and seasonable flowers. Certainly
no flowers of the present time can compare
with, much more surpass, these Pelargoniums in
their lavish display of varied colour, and all
this beauty is of easy attainment by those who
pursue the simple, but all-essential details of
culture throughout the year. The commend-
able feature of these newer kinds is that
they possess a free and robust constitution.
When these Pelargoniums were popular show
flowers owing to in-breeding to maintain high
quality and show form, not a few varieties were
raised that sadly lacked a robustness of habit
and free growth. But setting aside the con-
ventionalities that governed the shape and
colour, and seeking the natural grace and ex-
pression of the flower in varied forms and hues,
there is no reason why these Pelargoniums
should not again be popular, and, judging from
the varieties that Mr. Jones is now growing, it
will be surprising if some of them do not be-
come valuable market plants.

Of all the varieties that have come and gone
we can recall nothing resembling or at all like
the variety Mr. Jones has named Eucharis.

384

THE GARDEN

[Jun-e 1, 1895.

Its flowers are of the purest white, without a
spot or shade of any other colour, and quite
unique in shape and disposition on the truss.
They are quite round in outline, almost flat,
broad in the petal, and of large size. Each
flower has a stem 2 inches in length, so that the
individual blossoms can be gathered singly and
are adapted for a variety of uses. The truss
itself is flat, having only from three to six
flowers, but they are freely produced upon the
plant, and the habit of growth is all that can
be desired. It is a charming variety, appro-
priately named. The centre of attraction in
the house was a kind named Mrs. H. J. Jones.
The flowers of even other fine kinds looked small
in comparison, whilst its colouris softanddelight-
ful. The immeuse flowers form a bold truss, and
all the plants were finely bloomed. In colour
it is pale flesh, shading to blush-white, with
two small pencilled blotches of rich crimson on
the upper petals. Mrs. H. J. Jones in colour
and size of bloom does not appreciably differ
from some of the older kinds, but it is a marvel
of profuse bloom, and useful on that account.
Its flowers are rosy red, with white eye and
dark blotches. Mrs. W. AVright is a lovely
kind that received an award of merit last year.
It is strong in growth, profuse in bloom, its
flowers when first open clear soft pink, shading
to pale blush and having two small feathered
crimson blotches. The flowers of May Queen
are of a salmon-rose colour with white throat,
the nearly black blotches almost covering the
upper petals. Duke of York and Lady Duff
are two fine varieties of the regal type, the
former bright rosy crimson and of large size,
the latter a clear red sport from the variety
Duke of Fife. Miss Alice Love, flesh-pink,
with large dark blotches, is pretty, also Duke
of Portland, which is soft rose, with white
throat and dark velvet-black blotches. Multi-
flora, rosy pink, with crimson stains, is as free-
flowering as the name implies. A few of the
other kinds that are specially noteworthy are
Jubilee, clear pink, with maroon blotches ;
Rose Bard, rosy carmine, feathered with ma-
roon, very free- flowering ; Mrs. H. M. Stanley,
lilac-mauve, with dark blotches ; and H. M.
Stanley, rosy lake, upper petals crimson, with
dark spots, habit free and a profuse bloomer.

Ivy-leaved varieties are favourites with Mr.
Jones, and to these as well he has made several
notable additions, especially in Ryecroft Sur-
prise, a sterling kind. Its growth is vigorous,
the dense flower-trusses stand up well from the
plant, the individual flowers of very large size
and of a lovely salmon-pink colour. Beauty of
Castle Hill, with soft pink flowers and a free,
dwarf habit, should be a favourite kind, whilst
Ryecroft Scarlet is quite the best of that shade
of colour. Liberty, light rosy magenta, very
free blooming ; Le Prophete, cerise-red, with
large flowers in a neat truss ; Lamartine, light
orange-red ; and Jersey Beauty, of a reddish
purple shade and free habit, were all note-
worthy. The zonal varieties are all well done,
and although nothing new was in bloom at the
time of our visit, we saw good batches of seed-
lings that will soon be in flower.

Reidia g-laucescens. — This is the name under
which the plant mentioned above is most commonly
met with, though it is now regarded as a Phyl-
lanthus, whose specific name is pallidifolius. It
is a plant of easy culture and very graceful habit,
the little glaucous leaves being arranged regu-
larly along the branches, which are disposed
almost horizontally, thus giving them the appear-
ance of long pinnate leaves. The tiny drooping
blossoms are borne in sufficient numbers to form
quite a feature of the plant. It has been recom-

mended as a table plant, for which its light grace-
ful style of growth eminently fits it, but at night,
especially where exposed to changes of tempera-
ture, it goes to sleep, and its value for such
a purpose is thus destroyed. Other species of
Phyllanthus are very pretty and well worth
growing, notably P. nivosus, whose leaves are
arranged in the regular frond-like manner of the
preceding. In this the foliage is green, mottled
more or less freely with white, and a pretty
loose-growing bush it makes ; or, owing to the
open style of growth, it may be used for furnishing
a pillar or rafter in the stove. P. atro-purpureus
is a good deal in the same way, but with purple
foliage. P. Chantrieri, more after the manner
of the Reidia, is a larger-growing species. All
of the above are of easy propagation and culture,
but they need the temperature of a stove for their
full development.— H. P.

NERIUMS.
The better-known name, perhaps, under which
this genus is cultivated is that of the Oleander.
This is, however, only the specific and not the
generic name. One does not meet with this at
one time popular plant nearly so often as it
deserves to be. Of its beauty there can be no
question when well managed. Failures to

A double-flowered Nerium.

flower it successfully have no doubt caused it
to be less grown than formerly. It is a plant
that delights in an abundance of light ; hence
a sunny position should be given it. This not
only tends to develop and solidify the current
season's growth, but it also acts favourably in
bringing the flowers to perfection. It is not
difficult to induce a Nerium Oleander to
show flower - spikes, but these often, from
want of sunshine and warmth, do not open,
rarely getting beyond the partially developed
bud stage. Want of water during growth will
tend to the same end. This may even take
place without the plant actually suffering, but
a sickly hue will pervade the foliage in this case ;
whereas if grown in a shady house the foliage
may be of a dark green tint, yet no flowers will
be produced. Li this respect it is somewhat
analogous to Adiantum cuneatum, which, if
grown in heat, moisture and shade, produces
fine healthy-looking fronds, which will not
stand the test when cut. The Nerium if grown
in a light house will develop foliage of smaller
size, paler green in colour, but perfectly
healthy, the wood being short-jointed. Such
wood as this will the following season be
almost sure to result in plenty of flowers
before the young growth becomes too sappy
to deprive the flower trusses of their share of

sustenance. The spikes are terminal, three
woody shoots usually issuing from their base. If
these are seen to be pushing away too freely it
is better to stop them and rely upon back
breaks. During growth an abundance of water
should be given, with an occasional stimulant
to pot-bound plants. Peat and loam make
about the best compost, solid potting being
practised ; too rich a soil will tend to a woody
rather than a free flowering growth. Cuttings
may be easily struck in a little warmth by plac-
ing the shoots in bottles of water in a shady
and moist place. Scale is oftentimes trouble-
some, but the usual remedies for it suffice. To-
wards the autumn a warm position outside will
aid in ripening the wood for another season.

Some few years back I remember to have
seen several distinct forms (of Continental
origin, I think) at the Royal Horticultural
Society's Gardens, Chiswick. These at the
time struck me as being a useful type of plant
for conservatories, being particularly dwarf
and profuse in flowering. It is not, perhaps,
generally known that there are two white va-
rieties, one single (Sceur Agnes), another double
(album plenum). Other good forms are cu-
preatum, the copper-coloured variety ; Felix
Bourguet, very free, saffron and rose ; Ma-
donna grandifiorum, creamy white, double,
extra fine ; Professor Duchartre,
rosy purple, double; and Double
Rose. Grower.

New Fuchsias.— On p. 330
" H. P.'" complains that the new-
Fuchsias "sent out within the
last few years have been princi-
pally remarkable for the size of
their flowers. In common with
many other subjects, the pro-
duction of huge blooms seems to
be the one object aimed at by
the raisers." This is a somewhat
sweeping assertion, and " H. P."
being a careful writer has, no
doubt, grounds for what he states.
But I think he can scarcely be
acquainted with the varieties
raised during the last ten years
by that well-known grower, Mr.
James Lye, Clyffe Hall, Market
Lavington, Wilts. The distin-
guishing features of Mr. Lye's new-
varieties are their free, yet com-
pact growth, forming naturally symmetrical
bushes and their marvellous freedom of bloom-
ing, the blossoms generally medium-sized. Their
profusion of bloom is their leading characteris-
tic, and I can say as a frequent judge that I
find Lye's Charming, which I take as representa-
tive of his own raising, almost invariably forming
one of six, four, or two plants, and it is often
shown as a single specimen. I write this much in
justice to a painstaking and successful raiser and
cultivator who has done so much for the improve-
ment of the Fuchsia. — R. D.

Lilium longitlorurn variegatum. — When
Lilium longiflorum and its several varieties are
grown together the difference in their foliage,
which is most marked when they are from 6 inches
to 1 foot high, is very noticeable, some running up
comparatively spare of leaves, while in others
they are numerous, much longer than those of the
taller forms, and reflexed in such a manner as to
form a very graceful and symmetrical -shaped
specimen. Among the bulbs imported from
Japan a variety in which the leaves are edged with
yellow occasionally crops up, but its ornamental
features are not of a very high order. The re-
verse, however, holds good with regard to the
variety album marginatum, whose leaves, which
are somewhat more glaucous than those of the
common kind, have a regular and clearly defined
margin of white. I was recently very much
struck with a few beautiful examples of this which

June 1, 1895.]

THE GARDO

38:>

had been brought on in a greenhouse, and were
about 1 foot high and much the same in diameter.
They were perfect little specimens which would
be sure to attract attention. These particular
bulbs cropped up in a box of the ordinary L.
longiflorum as imported from Japan. — H. P.

Rose Garden.

AMONG THE ROSES IN MAY.

Bad as was the outlook among Roses after the
frost broke, they are certainly looking much
better now than many of us expected. Serious
blanks are evident in almost all gardens, and
young plants seem to stand better than those
with old bark and which one might almost ex-
pect to be proof against frost. Caterpillars and
grubs are appearing in great numbers upon my
plants, and 1 have therefore had several turns
at hand-picking. Nothing destroys these pests
60 well as careful and periodical hand-picking
for a short time. A few days ago I noted that
the Gooseberries were attacked with those small
caterpillars so prevalent upon this fruit in some
seasons. I syringed them with a fairly strong
dose of insecticide and found it very deadly.
Having a little of the solution left over, it was
used upon a wall of Roses where the Rose
grub was thicker than usual, and here also it
answered its purpose admirably. As a rule,
it is somewhat wasteful to syringe for this
pest in the open. Roses that escaped the
frost are not breaking with anything like
their usual vigour, and this applies more
particularly to the Hybrid Perpetuals. The
Tea-scented and Noisette sections certainly
possess greater powers of recuperation after
serious checks or injury, and are now presenting
a far more promising appearance than the Hy-
brid Perpetuals. The hardiest climbers of this
section have proved to be L'Ideal, W. Allen
Richardson and Kaiserin Friedrich. Mrs. Paul
has stood well, but it is not breaking so strongly
as I expected. A peculiar feature I have noted
is the success with hedge Briers planted previous
to the frost and the loss sustained among those
budded. One might reasonably have expected
that the rooted and longer-exposed stocks would
have withstood the trial best, but it does not
prove to be the case. The new forms of
R. rugosa from France stood it well. I had
them just before the severe weather set in, and
planted them at once. The}' had a severe test, and
turn out equally hardy with the well-known
older forms. I note that several people have
complained of Crimson Rambler being less hardy
than was anticipated, but ni}' plants have cer-
tainly come through quite as well as the
majority and seem almost uninjured. When
the weather looked so bad for our Roses, and
in anticipation of many losses, I grafted an extra
lot of the more tender varieties both from the
Teas and Hj brid Perpetuals. These are now
turned out of their 2s-inch pots into a prepared
bed, and have a very promising appearance. I
fully expect them to make nice stuff by the
autumn, and shall follow up this plan in future.
It is the bottom eyes of our dwarfs that we are
most dependent upon, and never more so than
this season. In grafted plants we usually have
a dormant eye ; if not, one soon pushes from
around the first growth, and it is this that I
am depending upon in this case. No Roses look
so well as the dwarfs, and in no other form can
we be so sure of permanent success. Dwarf
Roses, unless the variety be very tender, will
always produce shoots from the base and make
a show, whereas too often our standards and
half-standards are killed outright. Even when

crippled, the last-named seldom come round in
so satisfactory a manner as the bulk of dwarfs.

The maidens are now demanding a large
share of attention, and have certainly come on
better than was expected a few weeks back.
Staking, tying, and a little moulding up of
earth around the, base, so as to cover the junc-
tion of the stock and Rose, are very necessary.
It does not need much wind to break off the
tender young Rose growth, especially if accom-
panied by a shower, when the foliage becomes
heavy. The majority of our permanent beds
have now been filled in witli surplus pot plants,
and it is an excellent plan to keep a few of
these under slight cover for such a purpose.
Standards in pots have been in great demand,
owing to the extra loss among these, and I
would strongly recommend any growers who
must grow standards to have a few in pots
ready for late spring planting. Where the pre-
caution of giving a slight shade has' been
attended to, Roses under glass are looking
well. None of the plants will be stood in the
open air for a short time yet ; it is so much
better to be more sure of warm weather, and
so avoid the risk as would follow from an
exceptionally early autumn frost upon our free-
growing Teas when in the open borders.

R.

Rose Duke of York. — This, one of the novel-
ties of last year, bids fair to be of an exceptionally
useful character. At its home at Messrs. Wm.
Paul and Son's it is practically an all-the-yeac-
round Rose. It was shown late last autumn in
pots most profusely flowered at one of the Drill
Hall meetings. This spring again it made its
appearance in advance of everything else, and in
the best possible condition. These same plants
are now (May 7) flowering and in advanced bud
for the second time. This variety is, therefore,
to all intents and purposes a perpetual bloomer
in the true sense of the word. The growth is
moderate, even for a China Rose, yet very free
and vigorous, i.e., without any undue excess of
stout sappy shoots. I have it both in pots and
planted out, believing it to be a most serviceable
variety. When first it was shown, the year pre-
viously, the flowers bore some resemblance to those
of Hom&re, which in some measure they still do in
form, but they are several shades deeper. Duke
of York is, however, a better plant for pots.
When it is more plentiful, this addition to the
China Roses should prove to be an excellent bed-
ding variety. — Grower.

Climbing Roses.— In the majority of cases
the crop of bloom from these has now been se-
cured, and therefore we must give some attention
to the production of the most suitable growth for
next season. Too often these Roses are left
pretty much to chance after their beauty is over.
No after care will make up for neglect now, as
unless we get good wood during this period of
their growth we cannot possibly have bloom of
the desired kind next spring. No period is more
critical than that immediately following upon the
great exhaustion of heavy blooming. To check
the first sucker-like shoots from the lower part of
our plants is to court failure, or at the least a late
and immature growth. It is very necessary to
help them with liquid manure, and not to forget
how necessary sufficient moisture is at this season.
Let the manure water be given liberally, but not
too strong. I know of nothing more annoying in
Rose culture than to discover that a healthy and
vigorous plant is gradually declining solely be-
cause one has been too generous with what was
intended to further improve and support the
growth. Cleanliness, secured by frequent syring-
ing with soft water, is also a great aid. — R.

Pot Roses at Messrs. Wm. Paul and Son's
Waltham Cross Nurseries. — Although this old-
established firm has long ceased to enter the com-
petitive lists, it must not for one moment be in-
ferred that Roses in pots are not grown. The

huge specimens of former years have given place
to others of more useful size, and instead of the
one-sided style of training which by most exhibi-
tors is still adhered to, we have shapely all-round
bush plants of various sizes, the smaller with from
ten to a dozen fine buds and blooms, and the
larger with as many as five and six dozen, which
promise to be of the best possible quality. It is
pleaBing to note this all-round style of pot Roses,
with no stiff, cramped or formal mode of training.
The plants are chiefly grown in two large span-
roofed houses, which upon one of the warmest
days of this spring struck one as being delight-
fully cool and comfortable compared with the out-
side temperature. The plants are elevated on
pots at a considerable distance from the glass,
but through the houses being very light and the
ventilation judiciously controlled, there is no
semblance of elongated growths.— Grower.

SLUGS.
Like Mr. J. Whitworth Shaw (page 5.34) I have
an abundance of slugs, although the winter was
so abnormally severe and prolonged. Fortunately,
the spell of hot sunshine now experienced gi\es
tender plant growth a chance of making some
headway, otherwise the outlook in the vegetable
garden would have been serious. Young Cabbage,
Lettuce and Cauliflower plants, put out from sow-
ings made under glass, disappeared as if by magic,
soSt and lime being absolutely useless while the
rain continued daily. Some mid-season sowings
of Peas shared a similar fate. Out of half-a-dozen
long rows there is not sufficient for making two,
and this in spite of daily hand-picking, which
seemed the only practical remedy. Nor were
slugs the only enemy I had to deal with, for 1 do
not remember before witnessing such a numbei as
there was, in the evening following a showery day,
of large earth-worms. Mr. Shaw remarked that
to all appearance it had rained slugs. It runt
he would say equally that there must have been a
rather heavy shower of large worms, so numerously
were they spread over the surface. Fresh-planted
seedlings had no chance whatever against these,
for there were large numbers of them to be found,
in the early morning, roots instead ot heads
uppermost, and drawn into the large worm-
holes. There is no doubt that the large
worm-holes were convenient hiding-places tor the
slugs during the day. The evils of Box edging
have been only too apparent this spring, thou-
sands of seedling plants being devoured trom
beds adjoining paths furnished with this aj an
edging. Much the best remedy I found for deal-
ing with slugs was nitrate of soda, alter the
stormy weather abated. Some of this was pur-
chased for stimulating a quick growth in the
Cabbage and Asparagus crops, both being lite,
the former also being very patchy, lne nrsc
to receive a dressing was a young plantation tnat,
had been repeatedly filled up through losses Dy
slugs, and the utmost satisfaction was felt when
in the morning large numbers were found on the
surface soil quite dead. Possibly salt might haje
had a similar effect, but I do not think it would
have been equal to the nitrate. An investment
in either wpuld have been justifiable it the in-
struction of such a troublesome plague could have
been assured. On the score of economy and
safety I found it necessary to pass the soda
through a rather small-meshed sieve, so that the
lumps, of which there is always such a quantity,
could be pounded with a mallet. Put on in the
state in which it usually comes to hand, there is a.
danger in small seedling plants being killed
outright where the larger lumps dissolve im-
mediately on their roots. After the experience
of the past winter, there will be no future
hope of slugs being destroyed by frost, no
matter how severe or protracted it might be,
because in my case there was but little snow
to cover the ground as a protection to them, nor
were they out of the reach of frost unless they
penetrated to quite 2 feet or more into the soil.
That they remained alive and healthy with only
very slight shelter, I had unfortunately conclu-

385

THE GARDEN

[June 1, 1895.

sive evidence ; boards and planks for wheeling on
if upturned disclosed only too plainly that they
need not burrow deeply to get beyond its influence.
There is generally an idea that a severe winter
destroys numbers of slugs in the garden, but such
a hops must not be entertained again, for it is
doubtful if ever there will be a winter affording
such convincing proof as that we have had.

Ground occupied with Brussels Sprout?, winter
greens and Celery trenches seems to be the
favourite feeding quarters of slugs during the
season. On ground just cleared of the two first
named crops much the larger number of slugs has
been found, and the least is on that freshly-dug,
which points rather to the fact of their extermina-
tion by deep digging. Last year Parsnip and
main-crop Carrot seeds were first sown on firm
undug ground, but until this was dug I could get
no " plant," slugs eating them off as soon or even
before they had sprung up ; the second sowing did
very well on the same border when dug. Probably
bad I sown a dressing of salt or nitrate of soda
with the seed in the first instance, I should have
been spared the necessity of digging.

W. Strucnell.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

Temple Show, May 21, 22, and 23.
Orchid Committee.

First class certificates were awarded to —

Cyphipedium Stonei platytvknium, of which
great rarity a very finely grown plant was exhi-
bited with two spikes of its handsome and most
singular flowers, each spike bearing two magnifi-
cent blooms. The dorsal sepal is creamy white
with bronzy purple lines, the lower sepal being
almost equal to it in size and marking; the petals,
which are one of its chief characteristics, are very
broad and of great length, being very similar in
colouring to the sepals, the purple shading being
of the two darker : the lip is long, as in the type,
white, with deep rosy tints. From Sir Trevor
Lawrence's collection.

ODONTOGLOSSUM (MlLTONIA) BLEUIANUM VIRGI-

nai.e.-A most lovely form of 0. Bleuianum, more
beautiful in its extremely soft tints, whilst the
flowers are nearly 5 inches in width, the colour of
which is pure white with a light rosy tint at the
base of the petals, and slight veins of a darker
shade upon the base of the lip. This was also a
finely cultivated example, having also travelled
well. From Mons. Jules Hye-Leysen, Ghent.

Cattleya Mendeli dellensis.— A most charm-
ing and distinct form of this beautiful species,
amongst which it must be classed as one of the
very finest ; the labellum is of great breadth and
well expanded, having a heavy blotch of deep rich
purple and deeply fringed ; the throat has the
distinctive feature of Mendeli intensified in deeper
shades of orange and yellow ; the sepals and
petals are rosy lilac, the latter being of great
width. From Baron Schrceder.

Awards of merit were adjudged to —

Cattleya Mendeli grandis, a notable form,
with flowers of unusual size, the petals being of
great breadth, these and the sepals being of a
soft, rosy blush shade. The lip is specially fine,
with deep colouring, its breadth adding to its
beauty here. The rich purple is very fine, the
golden markings in the throat being also very dis-
tinct. From Messrs. H. Low and Co.

Cattleya Mossi.e Lady F. Wigan.— An ex-
tremely beautiful form, with very soft tints of
colouring ; the sepals and petals are pure white
as in C. Mossia- Reineckiana, but the colouring of
the lip is much lighter, the rich purple blotch
giving place to veins of the same shade. The
fringe, so noticeable in C. Mossiaj, is pure white •
the rich yellow of the throat is most conspicuous.'
From Sir F. Wigan.

Cattleya Lawrenceana atro-rubens, of which
a small plant only was shown, but this was
quite sufficient to stamp it as one of the finest
forms of this richly-coloured species yet seen.
The colour of the lip, as usually noted, has been
imparted to the petals, whilst the sepals are a shade
lighter. The lip itself, on the other hand, is
several shades deeper, the rich, deep rose-purple
being singularly unique and fine. From Mons.
Jules Hye-Leysen.

Ljelia purpurata Bella, which in a measure
takes after L. p. Russelliana, the lip only having
a shading and slight veins of purple, the latter of
a darker shade. The sepals and petals, also the
ground colour of the lip, are of the purest white,
being also fully up to the usual size of the species.
From Messrs. W. L. Lewis and Co., Southgate.

Odontoglossum Pescatorei La Perfection,
which is quite a gem amongst Odontoglots, with
the usual, but larger spots and blotches of this
species of a rich shade of rosy purple, the colour-
ing of the labellum at the same time being darker
still. It is a very finely-marked form, with the
flowers also of extra size. From M. Vuylsteke,
Belgium.

Odontoglossum Wilckeandm var. Lowi. — A
very light-coloured form of this species, the sepals
and petals being of a pale primrose shade, the
sepals spotted with dark oak-coloured spots and
barred also with the same shade ; the spike was a
fine one, although the plant was not itself large.
From Messrs. H. Low and Co.

Masdevallia Harryana miniata. — A singu-
larly fine form of this beautiful species, its large
flowers being very conspicuous in their rich shades
of colour, which is an intensely deep scarlet, with
a suspicion even of vermilion. This form stood
out as a most distinct variety amongst the number
of other Masdevallias shown by Sir Trevor Law-
rence.

Masdevallia Shuttryana (M. Shuttleworthi
X M. Harryana).— A most pleasing hybrid of
comparatively dwarf growth ; the colour is a rich
orange-red, with a suffusion of golden yellow, the
tail-like appendages indicative of M. caudata, of
which M. Shuttleworthi is a form, being bright
yellow. Also from Sir Trevor Lawrence.

Botanical certificates were awarded to —

Vanda concolor, a rather dull-coloured species
having cinnamon-coloured sepals and petals ; this
appears to be a form of the old V. Roxburghi ; and
Brassia Keeleana tristis, with singular-looking
flowers, the sepals and petals being of a shade
between green and brown and the lip white.
Both from Messrs. B. S. Williams and Son.

Floral Committee.

First-class certificates were awarded to the
following : —

Dracaena Godseffiana.— A distinct species of
tall growth, with cane-like shoots and oval leaves
of a dark green colour, blotched and spotted with
pale yellow. From Messrs. Sander and Co., St.
Albans.

Iniarvillea Delavayl— A fine new hardy
plant from China, with large bright rose-coloured
flowers, in shape like those of a Marty nia, and
borne several in a cluster at the top of an erect
stem 9 inches high. Shown by Sir Trevor Law-
rence.

Awards of merit were granted to the follow-
ing :—

Caladium Lord Derby.— The leaves of this are
of medium size, of a rosy red shade, the veins and
edges conspicuously delineated in deep green.
Shown by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

Caladu-m Henry Irving.— A pretty variety,
the centres of the leaves silver-grey, with broad
green margin, the veins of a rosy shade. This also
came from Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

Caladium Rose Laing.— This is a tall-growing
kind, with immense leaves of distinct colour,
chiefly greenish white, but prettily suffused with
pink about the centre. Shown by Messrs. J.
Peed and Sons.

Phyllocactus Excellent.-— This charming
kind haslarge, broad-petalled flowers of a brilliant

orange-scarlet colour, with crimson edging to the
petals. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

P^sony Lord Iveagh. — A fine Tree Pieony,
with large semi-double flowers of a rich cerise-red
colour. Shown by Messrs. Kelway and Sons,
Langport.

'Gloxinia Prince of Wales. — A large flowered,
brilliant self variety, with flowers of a deep crim-
son colour. From Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons,
Swanley.

Clematis Duchess of York. — This is another
of the C ccccinea hybrids, and a charming kind
of a soft blush colour with a deeper band of pink
down the centre of the petals, which vary in num-
ber from four to six in each flower. Shown by
Messrs. G. Jackman and Sons, Woking.

Begonia Samuel Pope. — A double-flowered
kind of a creamy hue, the petals edged with bright
rose. Shown by Mr. T. S. Ware, Tottenham.

Begonia White Camellia. — A pure white
double-flowered kind, aptly named after the
flower it much resembles. This also came from Mr.
Ware.

Begonia Rex, Masterpiece. — A dwarf-growing
kind with numerous small rounded leaves of a dull
red shade, the stalks and leaf veins bright red, the
edges of the leaves dark green spotted with red.
Shown by Messrs. F. Sander and Co.

Begonia Lady Annesley.— This has a beautiful
leaf, with a bluis-h tinge about the centre and a
broad zone of silver-grey, margined with light
grey-green. From Messrs. F. Sander and Co.

Pelargonium Duchess of York. — This is a
pretty tricolor variety, the leaves grey- green in
the centre, with a bright zone of soft clear red
margined with yellow. Shown by Mr. J. Prewett,
Hammersmith.

SiBTHORPiA aurea variegata. — A variety with
leaves of a pale yellowish green colour in pretty
contrast to the silver variegated form shown with
it. From Messrs. J. Backhouse and Sons, York.

Fruit t nd Vegetables.

Messrs. Rivers and Son, Sawbridgeworth, had
a group of twenty-five very fine pot Nectaiincs
laden with fruit, each tree having from twenty
to thirty fruits of splendid quality and grandly
coloured. The varieties were the new Early
Rivers and Cardinal. Early Rivers is noted
for its earliness and good qualities, either forced
or in the open. Cardinal is distinct, the fruit
being more blotched ; this is a fine variety for
indoor culture. Some large baskets of Cardinal
were also staged with a tree of Lord Napier to
show the early fruiting qualities of the Cardinal.
Messrs. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, sent sixty-
five dishes of Apples. The collection was nicely
staged, being backed by pot trees of St. John's
Fig laden with fruit and alternate plants of
Spira?a confusa. Some of the larger Apples were
remarkable for their colour and firm appearance.
Calville Rouge, a bronzy red fruit; Waggener,
a new kind ; Belle Pontoise, Beauty of Kent, Al-
friston, King of Tompkins Co., Reinette du
Canada, Duke of York, High Canons, Winter
Peach, Striped Beaufin, Tibbett's Pearmain,
Landsberger Reinette (very fine), Newton Wonder,
Allen's Everlasting and Brownlee's and Egrcmont
Russets were the finest.

Mr. Wythes, Syon House, Brentford, staged a
dozen dishes of fruit, including Amsden June
Peach, a good seedling Melon, and four fruits
of Beauty of Syon Melon. A new departure,
which it is hoped will not be followed at future
shows, was to cut the Melons, spoiling their
appearance and rendering them valueless to the
exhibitor. This was done by the judges. Surely
it is unnecessary to cut Melons in a collection of
fruit not for competition. Grapes in three va-
rieties, Sir J. Paxton Strawberries, Brown Turkey,
Negro Largo and Bourjassotte Grise Figs, and
Lord Napier Nectarines completed a very good
exhibit. Mr. Mclndoe, Guisboro,' Darlington,
Yorks. sent some eight dishes of fruit, including
a grand dish of Lord Napier Nectarine, Dryden
and Early Rivers ^Nectarines, Bellegarde Peach,
Best of All and Premier Melons, a dish of Lemons

June 1, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

387

and Tomatoes. Mr. J. Friend, Rooksnest, God-
stone, staged six bunches of Black Hamburgh and
Foster's Seedling Grapes, the bunches good and
berries well coloured. Mr. Osman, Ottershaw
Park, Chertsey, also sent Black Hamburgh Grapes,
large and well coloured. Mr. Featherby, Gilling-
ham, Kent, sent a very good collection of fruit
and vegetables, having well-coloured Hamburgh
Grapes, Hale's Early Peach, Covent Garden Cu-1
cumber, and Ne Plus Ultra Bean. Mr. Messenger,
The Gardens, VVoolverstone Park, Ipswich, sent
a nice collection of fruit, including good Melons,
Brown Turkey Figs, and Hamburgh Grapes. Mr.
R. Johnson, Stand Hall, Manchester, staged six
bunches of Grapes, but not quite ripe. Mr.
Miller, Ruxley Lodge, Esher, sent a collection of
seedling Melons of nice size, mostly green-fleshed,
and of good quality. Mr. Gilman, Ingestre Gar-
dens, Stafford, sent a white seedling Melon named
Early May, but not at its best. Mr. Farr,
Spring Grove Gardens, Isleworth, sent a green-
fleshed Melon named Beauty of Patshull.

The vegetables call for special notice, the
Messrs. Sutton, Reading, staging a great quantity
of Peas in pots and Tomatoes. Rarely have such
grand examples of vegetables in pots been shown.
The Peas were equal to those grown in the open,
and the Tomatoes were laden with fruit down to
the soil. This collection occupied much space,
and consisted of mostly new varieties. Bountiful,
a round blue seeded Pea, 3 feet, was laden with
pods, some fine examples being staged. Another
variety, a very dwarf marrow, one mass of pods,
tho latter quite full, and 5 inches to 6 inches long,
was the new seedling Marrowfat. This will cer-
tainly be a valuable addition to our early varie-
ties, and is of very fine quality. This is the re-
sult of a cross between Royal Jubilee and Ameri-
can Wonder. Another new Pea was Sutton's
A 1, a wrinkled marrow with true marrow
flavour, 3 feet in height, containing seven to nine
peas in a pod. Favourite was also grandly staged,
the plants laden with fully grown pods. It is a
true marrow, only 18 inches high, fine for forcing
and pot culture. May Queen was represented by
a dozen plants in 12 inch pots. This is one of
Mr. Culverwell's crosses, and a fine Pea, very
early, with marrow flavour, and some 2| feet
high. It is a very heavy cropper. Empress
of India Pea was also shown in quantity.
In size of pod it resembles Telephone, and
grows from 3 feet to 4 feet high. It is a splendid
variety for early sowing on warm soils. Tomatoes
were staged in great numbers and in the best
possible condition. A 1 Tomato was fine, fruit of
great depth and in large clusters, somewhat after
Ham Green. Best of All, a new variety of a deep
scarlet colour, quite smooth and not at all coarse,
is slid to be very early. This the committee
wished to be sent to Chiswick. Perfection was
also staged in quantity and of good quality. Sun-
beam, a yellow, oval-shaped, new variety, was
specially good. Tender and True, a new cross
from the Peach and Perfection, was very interest-
ing, and is specially recommended for dessert.
Abundance and Dessert, two very fine types, were
well staged ; the latter had racemes of fruit with
from ten to fifteen medium sized fruits on each.
Golden Nugget still holds its own for quality.
The new climbing Bean Tender and True was
shown in 6 inch pots, showing its free cropping
habit.

Mr. Wythes, Syon House, staged eighteen
varieties of vegetables, mostly spring-grown,
having very good Veitch's Ashleaf, Early May
and Victor Potatoes, Veitch's Model and Nantes
Carrots, Early Milan Turnips, Perfection and
Prelude Tomatoes, good Veitch's Model Broccoli,
Golden Queen and Perfect Gem Lettuce, Aspara-
gus, Ellam's and Veitch's Earliest of All Cabbage,
Syon House and Ne Plus Ultra Beans, Victoria
Spinach (spring-sown), Cucumbers, and Turnip-
rooted Beet. Mr. Empson, Ampthill House,
Bedford, staged vegetables in quantity, with
some Apples and Strawberries nicely arranged.
Mr. Ward, Longford Castle Gardens, Salisbury,
had a quantity of Harbinger Lettuces and First
Crop Peas, large plants of Cucumbers trained to

various shaped trellises, Mammoth Asparagus,
with a nice collection of Radishes in variety.
Mr. R. J. Steel, Brentford, staged Rhubarb,
Cucumbers, Lettuce, Beetroot, Leeks, and other
small salads. Mr. G. Mount, Canterbury, sent
three very nice dishes of Conference and Perfec-
tion Tomatoes. Mr. Waite, Glenhurst, Esher,
sent very fine Asparagus. Mr. Trollope, Coombe
Court, Reading, also sent some Asparagus.

Tulips.

Tulips were very much to the fore. There was
not a collection of cut flowers scarcely but
contained Tulips of some sort. In addition there
was the second exhibition of the southern section
of the National Tulip Society, though all the best
flowers came from the north, and there did not
appear to be any indication that the flower is
being much grown in the south. Still, so long as
opportunity is offered for the Tulip to be shown
as an exhibition flower in the south, it does not
matter if the finest blooms are drawn from the
north. But, judging from the scanty attendance
in front of the stands even when the tents were
most crowded, how very few persons appeared to
be interested in them, refined and beautiful
though they are '.

Rectified ok broken Tulips.— There were
three collections of twelve rectified Tulips, that is,
flowers which have passed from the seedling
breeder or self state into the broken form, which
is their permanent character. The best stand
came from Mr. J. W. Bentley, Stakehill, Man-
chester, who has succeeded to the fine collection
formerly grown by his uncle, the late Mr. Samuel
Barlow. Mr. Thomas Haynes, Warwick,^ an old
midland grower, was second, and Mr. C. W. Need-
ham, Manchester, a promising young northern
grower, was third. The exquisite refinement seen
in the majority of these flowers contrasted strongly
with the blooms shown in collections where the
colour flooded too much of the ground. There
were four stands of six varieties, and Mr. C, VY.
Needham was placed first. Mr. T. Haynes was
second, and Mr. J. W. Bentley third. With three
feathered Tulips, one of each class, Mr. J. W.
Bentley was first, having fine blooms of bizarre
General Grant, bybl'rmen Guido, rose Comte de
Vergennes. Mr. T. Haynes was again second.
With three flamed Tulips Mr. T. Haynes was
first, staging very fine blooms of bizarre Sir J.
Paxton, byblnmen King of the Universe, and rose
Mrs. Lomax. The Rev. F. D. Horner, Burton-in-
Lonsdale, was second.

Breeder Ti-lips.— These are seedling self-
coloured Tulips which have not yet broken into
their permanent character, though they may do
so at any time, or it may not be for years. One
could we'll desire that some would never do so, so
beautiful are they, and it very frequently happens
that the most beautiful breeders break into flowers
of poor character, while those least attractive
may rectify into blooms of fine quality. There
aie no more beautiful border Tulips than the
breeders with their pure bases and brilliant
colouring ; by the side of them a large number of
the Darwin varieties look coarse and unwieldy.
The best six, two of each class, came from the
Rev. F. D. Horner. Mr. J. W. Bentley was
placed second. The Samuel Barlow prizes for the
best pair of rectified Tulips, one feathered and
one flamed, brought several collections, Mr.
C. W. Needham winning the silver-gilt Flora
medal with feathered bybUemen Elizabeth Fegg
and flamed bizarre Masterpiece. The Rev. F. D.
Horner was placed second with a feathered byblu?-
men seedling and flamed rose Mabel. The pre-
mier feathered Tulip was bybhemen King of the
Universe, from Mr. C. W. Needham ; the premier
flamed Tulip, bizarre Sir J. Paxton, shown by Mr.
T. Haynes.

Collections of Tulips.— Of these there were
several, and they consisted of bunches of blooms
placed in bottles of water. The best came
from Mr. J. T. Bennett-Poe, Cheshunt, who had
all the types represented by very tine blooms.
Mr. J. W. Bentley was second.

Notes of the Week.

Magnolia Soulangeana.— We have received
from Mr. F. W. Meyer, Exeter, a photo of a very
fine plant of this Magnolia, quite a small tree and
covered with flowers, growing in the gardens of
Mr. G. Radford, Sidmouth.

Two hardy Cypripediums now flowering in
the rock garden bog at Kew are C. macranthum,
which is very fine, the flowers of a rich self rosy
purple shade, the pouch large and much inflated,
and C. occidentale, with twisted sepals and petals
of a greenish brown colour, the pouch of a clear
rich yellow.

Strawberry Ssnsation.— I send a few fruits
of Strawberry Sensation to show what a large
fruit it is. It is the largest I have ever forced,
gome samples weighing 1J ozs. It is a solid fruit
with fairly good flavour. The plants outside
look well.— Alexander 7'kail, Fuhliaa- Hall,
WUmslow.

Aster alpinus superbus.— There can be no
reasonable objection to the name as regards this
variety of A. alpinus which is now flowering at
Kew. It is truly a superb form with a deep blue
flower nearly or quite as large as that of Erigeron
speciosus, and borne on a strong stem 6 inches or
more in height.

Hemerocallis Dumortieri is a handsome
Dav Lily now flowering, and would make a charm-
ing" companion to the paler yellow Day Lily. Its
flowers are of a deep orange-yellow shade, bright
and most distinct, the blooms borne boldly on a
thick, erect stem. A coloured plate of this va-
riety was given in The Garden of March 26, 1887.

Rosa spinosissima var. altaica is a charm-
inn- wild Rose now flowering abundantly at Kew.
Ifcis a native of Siberia, and although allied to the
Burnet Rose, resembling it in spiny growth and
tiny leaves, is more erect in habit, with very
fine flowers of a creamy white colour. It is also
known as R. grandiflora and is a most welcome
early and showy kind.

The Amethyst Hyacinth (H. amethystinus)
is one of the choicest flowers of the present week,
welcome for its lateness when most spring bulbs
are going to rest, and quite unique in its delicate
shade of porcelain blue. Such gems as this are
worthy of attention, and it is little that they need
if planted under suitable conditions where they
will be free from needless disturbance.

Scilla pratensis.— A group of this late-flower-
ing species in one of the borders at Kew is note-
worthy. It has tall, feathery spikes of flowers,
small individually, but effective because so
numerous ; whilst in colour they much resemble
those of the Amethyst Hyacinth. It is a native
of Dalmatia and as elegant as the feathered
Hyacinth, without the monstrous appearance of
that flower.

Rosa sericea.— This is a lovely single Rose
little known in gardens, but, judgirg from a large
bush at Kew now covered with flowers, its merits
only need to be made known, and, in common with
many other single Roses, it will be sought for and
planted. The bush is quite 8 feet high, making a
handsome specimen, the arching shoots perfect
wreaths of charming blossoms. The flowers are
distinctly cruciform in shape, as they have only
four petals about 2 inches across and of a pale
cream or straw colour, passing to white.

Camassia esculenta.— This lovely bulbous
plant ought to be popular in gardens, as it
succeeds admirably under a variety of condi-
tions, and has a prolonged flowering season.
In groups among choice shrubs and left un-
disturbed for several years it is very hand-
some, and the spikes are much finer from such
established groups. In Grass, too, it is happy.
We noticed it this week in the wild garden at
Kew flowering freely, its long spikes higher than
the tall Grass, the effect especially charming in
one spot where it was associated with tbe Star of
Bethlehem, perhap3 more by accident than de-

38 S

THE GARDEN.

'June 1, 1895.

sign, but suggestive of a lovely picture on a larger
scale.

New Tea and other Roses.— We have the
pleasure to send you a box of Rose blossoms by
parcel post which we trust will be safely received.
The hybrid Rugosa Mungo Park is a cross be-
tween General Jacqueminot and Rosa rugosa,
and I send flowers of the last named for compari-
son. The other kinds enclosed are Sylph (Tea)
and Medea (Tea). We have a high opinion of
both these.— W. Paul & Son.

*»* The two Tea Roses are very charming. The
hybiid is also interesting, but there is a vast
difference in form and colour between such hybrids
and the Teas.— Ed.

Tulipa Bouton d'Or.— I send you five blooms
of Tulip Bouton d'Or, it is so good and such an
old favourite in good gardens. When I was a
child I then knew it as Buttercup. What do
you think of the Allamanda-like gold » Is it not a
beauty ? and, what is more, when planted in good
rich sandy soil and left, remains a "come-to-
stay " plant. Tulipa (iesneriana ixioides sent
you last week with the black base, &c., was
known fifty years since as the yellow Peacock
Tulip on account of the zone being so like in
colour that on the extreme tips of a peacock's tail,
very green and dark. — \V. B. Haktland, Ard-
Gavrn, Cork.

%* A fine Tulip, admirably grown. — Ed.

Absence cf flowers on Ranunculi.— The

non flowering of Ranunculi and Anemones is, I
think, the consequence of the abnormally cold and
wet summer of last year, which, though promoting
a vigorous leaf growth, was not warm enough to
ripen off the bn'.bs properly. Not only the above
bulbs, but a great many more have not flowered
well this year. Parrot Tulips have also flowered
very sparsely with me, whilst last year, the resultof
the hot and dry weather of the glorious summer
of 1893, these Tulips blcomed most abundantly.
Many Irises are also very bad, and some have even
died out entirely. Fortunately, the prospects are
now somewhat brighter, as on the whole we have
had a very genial spring, neither too cold nor too
wet, and no late frosts.— C.G. van Tubeecjen, Jcn.

Genista pilosa.— In common with most of
the early-flowering Cenistas and Cytisuses, this
species is this year blooming with extreme free-
dom. It is one of the dwarfest of Genistas, being
of dense prostrate habit, and it is on that account
especially useful for the rock garden and for
making an undergrowth to other taller shrubs.
A bed of Caraganas in the Leguminofie collection
at Kew carpeted with this plant in full flower
is now very pretty. The leaves are small and
lanceolate, having the under surface covered with
a closely pressed silvery down. The flowers, of
a bright golden yellow, are produced in the
leaf-axils of last year's growths. The species
is a native of Britain, but it is not particularly
common, being confined to dry, elevated tracts
in the southern counties. It is, however, widely
spread over the more southern parts of Europe.
It may be propagated by cuttings taken in July
and August, or by seeds, which ripen in abundance
most seasons.

Cytisus purpureus.— Nearly all the Cytisuses
and Genistas have flowers that are white or yel-
low, or of some shade intermediate between the
two, but in this species we have a distinct and
welcome break. It is a shrub of dwarf, semi
prostrate habit, and just now its slender, graceful
shools are loaded with bright pinkish purple
flowers. There is a variety with almost pure
white flowers, and there are also others of a more
or less rosy colour. The plant may be used near
the front of a border, or as a kind of undergrowth
to shrubs that are erect growing and do not
obstruct the light too much. It can be easily
increased either bv seeds or cuttings, and is some-
times grafted on stocks of Laburnum to form
standards. It is believed that the curious Cytisus
Adami, which bears both the flowers of this species
and those of the common Laburnum simulta-
neously, was originally produced in this way— one

of the very rare instances of hybridisation by
grafting. C. purpureus was introduced a little
over 1011 years ago. — B.

Rhododendron Smirnowi. — This is one of
the most remarkably distinct Rhododendrons in-
troduced to this country in recent years. It is a
native of the Caucasian Mountains (the Asiatic
side) and has been known to botanists for about a
dozen years. Some plants have lately been flower-
ing in the arboretum nursery at Kew, and al-
though nine years old they are as yet only 1 foot
high. This dwarf habit is not, as might be ex-
pected, associated with small leaves or small
flowers, some of the former being 4 inches to 5
inches long and 1J inches wide, whilst some of the
blossoms measure 2 inches to 3 inches across. The
leaves are dark green above, but on the under sur-
face are coated with a dark brown wool. Although
the species has no pretensions to rivalry with the
fine garden varieties now so abundant, it has
several good qualities which might be taken
advantage of by the hybridiser. It is perfectly
hardy, and it is probable that if it were crossed
with some finely coloured variety, its dwarf habit
might be in a great measure retained and at the
same time an infusion of brighter colour into its
flowers secured. The flowers are of a rosy purple,
and although large enough are somewhat loose in
the truss, which is also as large as is found on any
of the true wild species of Rhododendron.

Exochorda grandiflora.— One of the most
beautiful white-flowered shrubs with us this spring
has been a bush, some 6 feet or 7 feet high, of
Exochorda grandiflora. It is a native of North
China, whence it was introduced by Fortune, who
first saw it in flower there in March, 1845. In the
structure of its flowers it scarcely differs from a
Spira?a. It was figured in the Botanical Maga-
zine, t. 4795, as S. grandiflora. When it first
ripened fruit, however, it was seen to differ suffi-
ciently to form another genus. A coloured plate
of it was published under the correct name in The
Garden, February 13, 1877. Although it is fre-
quently grown as a wall shrub there is no necessity
for any protection. It is quite hardy, and, pro-
vided it is planted in good rich soil, it seldom fails
to flower after having once attained sufficient age
and strength. Its foliage is of a rather light
shade of green, the leaves being thin and quite
smooth, narrow, oblong and toothed towards the
apex. The flowers, produced in erect racemes,
are each about 0 inches long and pure white. A
single branch will sometimes have several flower-
ing shoots produced closely together, thus giving
the effect of one large snow-white inflorescence.
Each flower is 1 inch across the slightly over-
lapping petals, making it round and full in
appearance.

Notes from Chester.— We send a box of
blooms of Lilacs and Azalea mollis, the latter from
seedlings, simply arranged in order as to colour
groups, and, roughly speaking, divided into reds
and yellows, but the subtle gradations of tint prove
the poverty of such an incomplete distinction and
division. The yellows, as you will see, run through
all shades of bull' and straw colour to lemon and
warmer tones, the reds through salmon-pink to
brick-red. All are beautiful, and massed together
they give broad patches of brilliant colour which
cannot be surpassed, and which cannot indeed be
matched by any other group of ou'door hardy
flowering shrubs at this season of the year. The
Lilacs are this year superb. Many people are
unaware of the great variety there is in Lilacs.
Years ago persons thought the ordinary Lilac
which bloomed by the garden door, as Walt
Whitman places it in his tender poem on the death
of Lincoln, was the only type extant. But the
various kinds now to be found in most collections
show a splendid range. Amongst those sent you
to-day, note especially Ambroise Verschaffelt with
its bunchy head of rosy pink. Contrast with this
the pale lilac flowers of Le Gaulois and the robust
vigorous shoots of President Grevy. Conseiller
Heyder, Cterulea Superba, and Gloire de Mou-
lins are all grand. With these we send a flowering
spray of a beautiful silvery foliaged bush, Eurybia

Gunniana, with its simple flowers arranged so
delicately and beautifully upon its perfectly
symmetrical branchlets. — Dicksons, Chester.

Public Gardens.

Open spaces. — The trustees of the London
Parochial Charities have subscribed out of their
surplus income for the year 1895 £1000 to the
funds of the Metropolitan Public Gardens Asso-
ciation for the purpose of promoting the purchase
or laying-out of minor open spaces.

Brockwell Park. — This charming pleasure
ground, opened by Lord Rosebery three years
ago, is still inaccessible on the Brixton side. The
delay in constructing an entrance through the
Arlingford Road occasions much disappointment
in the district ; and a numerously-signed petition
has been sent to the County Council through Mr.
W. Haydon, L C.C., asking that the proposed
gate may be opened immediately after the land
has been purchased. As the park is now seen at
its best, it has been suggested that while the new
gate is in course of construction, the inhabitants
of Brixton might have access to the park by a
temporary footpath.

Metropolitan Public Gardens Associa-
tion. — On Thursday afternoon, Mr. George
Matthey, F.R.S., the Prime Warden of the
Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, opened the
St. Peter's Churchyard, Walworth, S.E., as a
public garden. The ground has been laid out by
the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association,
the cost of the work having been generously
defrayed by the Goldsmiths' Company. The
Prime Warden, upon his arrival, was received by
the Earl of Meath (chairman), Lord Teynham,
and Sir William Vincent, Bart, (vice-chairman),
and other members and officials of the association,
together with the rector and churchwardens of
St. Peter's, the members of the Burial Board and
the Vestry. The Earl of Meath warmly acknow-
ledged the handsome gift of £650 from the Gold-
smiths' Company, which had been devoted to the
preparation of the ground and the erection of a
granite drinking fountain. He pointed out that
the association had . now laid out over eighty
grounds, amounting to about 110 acres in extent in
various parts of the metropolis at a cost of nearly
£40,000. In Walworth much more is required
to be done, as there were only about six acres of
public open space for 116,000 inhabitants, or nearly
20,000 people to one acre of public space. The
association was further engaged in endeavouring
to secure another recreation ground in East Street,
Walworth. Lord Meath concluded by presenting
the key to the chairman, and desiring him to open
the grounds.

The weather in West Herts.— During the
past week the days have been very warm, but the
nights, as a rule, rather cold for the time of year.
On each of the last eight days the highest tem-
perature in shade has exceeded 65°, and on four
days 70°. The warmest day of all was the 29th,
when 77° was registered. The lowest reading in-
dicated by the exposed thermometer was 34°.
Since the 21st the temperature of the soil at 2 feet
deep has risen 5°, and at 1 foot deep as mtich as
11°. During the last four weeks only half an
inch of rain has fallen, and the ground is becoming
very dry. For the last two days no water at all
has been through the 2| feet of soil in either per-
colation gauge. Rosa hibernica came first into
blossom in my garden on the 24th inst., which is
eight days earlier than its average date of first
flowering in the previous nine years, and ten days
earlier than last year. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

Names of plants. — John Morris. — 1, Cypri-
pediuru Ckamberlainianum ; 2, C. Haynaklianum ; 3, C.

Argus, fine form ; 4, Cattleya Mossia?. M. Ricardo.

— 1, Tulipa Gesneriana; 2, Tulipa Billietiaiia.— —15.
Semper. — Yes, probably forms of Tulipa Gesneiiana.

THE GARDEN

389

No. 1229. SATURDAY, June 8, 1896. Vol. XLVII.

" This Is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but
The Art itself is Nature." — Bhakapeare.

Orchids.

AERIDES FIELDING!.

The genus to which this plant belongs is sadly
neglected by Orchid growers, but possibly it
is the most popular species. This is not to be
wondered at, for it is a truly noble Orchid, and
when in good condition is worth growing for the
fake of the foliage alone, to say nothing of the
handsome spikes so freely produced when its
wants are understood and properly catered for.
Many of the distichous-leaved Orchids do not
bloom so freely as small plants, but this cannot
be urged against A. Fieldiugi, as the plants if
in good health commence flowering when only a
few inches in height, and each successive year
grow stronger and produce larger racemes. The
old system of keeping these plants in a hot dry
atmosphere, reducing them almost to a state of
flaccidity by entirely withholding water in
winter, has, happily, become obsolete, and we
now see what the plants are really capable of.
Plants less than 1 foot high often carry three or
four racemes each from 2 feet to .30 inches in
length, and if such were more frequently ex-
hibited in the trade groups at our piincipal
shows, it would probably be the means of ex-
tending the culture of this section, and have
the effect of lowering the surplus stock which
is to be seen at many nurseries where Orchids
are made a speciality. The lucernes of this
species are densely furnished with flowers, and
owing to the graceful curve at which they are
carried the plant is popularly known as the
Foxbrush Aerides.

The culture of this plant is of the easiest,
provided enough heat and moisture are at com-
mand. It may be grown in pots or baskets,
cither suspended or on the stage, and if there
is no Orchid house it will do very well in an
ordinary plant stove. The roots are very large
and fleshy and must have a light and well-
aerated medium, consisting of large nodules of
charcoal and living Sphagnum Moss. The best
time to give new compost is as soon in spring
as possible, provided a brisk temperature can
afterwards be maintained, so that the plants are
not checked, but grow away naturally, the roots
taking at once to the compost. Like the ma-
jority of this section, the roots are active, con-
siderably in advance of the growths, and from
the time the points are seen by the green tips
to be moving, the water supply must be ample,
and the atmosphere also plentifully charged
with moisture and, if possible, ammonia. This
is accomplished by damping the houses with
liquid manure, strewing soot and lime in small
quantities about under the stages, or in some
cises by placing a little sulphate of ammonia in
the evaporating troughs. Growth under these
conditions will be very rapid, and small plants
soon make good specimens if kept potted on.
Towards the end of summer a little more air
and sunlight should be afforded the plants to
consolidate the growth, but no attempt atripen-
iag, as the term is usually understood, must
be made, nor must the plants be dried at the
roots. When the points of the latter show, by
the white portion closing o/er, that the season's
growth is done, then the water supply must be
diminished gradually, only giving enough in
the winter to keep the foliage in good condition.

When repotting, if the roots are in a thriving
state they will be found to have taken a very
firm hold of the insides of the pots, and no
attempt must be made to remove them. The
pots must be broken and the old compost and
loose potsherds removed piecemeal, those with
roots clinging to them being replaced in the
new pots. As many as convenient of the aerial
roots should also be covered with the Moss.
When, on the other hand, the roots are in a
bad state through closeness of the compost or
insufficient drainage, all decayed parts should
be cut away and the plants repotted in clean
potsherds, with simply a superficial layer of
Moss, or they may be laid out on a moist stage,
as advised for newly-imported plants, and when
seen to be starting freely, potted or basketed
in the usual way.

The chief insect enemies are the small brown
scale, which attacks the foliage, and aphides,
which nearly always make their appearance at
flowering time. These are not very troublesome
if taken in hand before they get numerous, and
are easily kept under by the usual means. A.
Fieldingi is a native of the Old World, being
found in India and China, and I have referred
to its culture somewhat in detail, as it is similar
to that required for all the larger-growing
members of the genus. H- R-

length and about 4 inches broad. They grow
erect and are of a dull deep green colour, more or
less spotted with dull purple. The erect flower-
spike is produced from the base of the last leaf,
and reaches a couple of feet in length. The blooms
are numerous, and individually measure about 2J
inches in diameter, usually of a greenish yellow
ground colour and spotted with brown. The
plant above referred to was a remarkably fine
dark variety, the sepals and petals being of a
pretty shade of brown and spotted with brownish
purple, the fine lip being of a deep clear rose.
This Orchid was introduced as far back as 1834
from Dutch Guiana by the gentleman whose name
it bears, and since by other collectors in British
Guiana, where it is said to always inhabit the
hottest and dampest places. I have had it doing
fairly well when potted in a moderately sized
basket, with fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss,
with plenty of drainage and suspended close to
the roof of the Cattleya house.— W. H. G.

Ccelogyne pandurata.— I was interested to
see Mr. Knight's note on Calogyne pandurata
with thirteen flowers on a spike in The Garden
of May 11. I have four plants of Cu-logyne pan-
durata. The largest specimen has three flower-
spikes ; one spike has fourteen very large blooms.
Of the two other flower-spikes not quite out, one
has twelve and the other eleven flowers.— W.
Driver, Longfords, Minchinhampton.

Lycaste aromatica.— It is surprising the
amount of bloom small plants of this species pro-
duce, the bulbs and foliage being literally hidden.
On a moderately strong bulb I counted fourteen
flower-scapes. The flowers are produced singly
on these, and, as the specific name implies, they
have a strong aromatic odour. They are, more-
over, very long-lasting, and the plants withstand
the dry temperature of living rooms much better
than some Orchids. L. aromatica was introduced
from Mexico in 1828, and, in common with all in
the genus, thrives well in the cool house.

Vanda Denisoniana.— This is interesting as
being the only pure white Vanda we have.
Several fine specimens of this were exhibited
recently at the Temple show, all nicely in bloom.
It is found growing on the Arracan Mountains
at about 2000 feet altitude, and was intro-
duced upwards of thirty years ago. There is a
beautiful and distinct variety of this fine old
species which, however, is still rare. In this the
sepals and petals are sulphur yellow with
numerous spots, the lip of a deeper shade of the
same colour. This remarkable variety appeared
amongst an importation introduced by Messrs.
B. S. Williams, of Holloway, about ten years ago,
but I am not aware of its having been brought
home since. — W. H. G.

Cypripedium caudatum.— Cypripedium cau-
datum is now flowering in several establishments
around London, its long ribbon-like petals always
making it attractive. The petals are longer in
this species than in any other kind, in some in-
stances reaching over 3 ft. in length, although, as a
rule, on small plants the usual length is from
20 inches to 24 inches. The whole flower is of a
yellowish colour, veined with a crimson brownish
shade, and in the variety roseum the lip is heavily
shaded with rose. The somewhat scarce variety
Wallisi I noted with Messrs. Low and Co., of
Clapton. This is similar to the type, but has
rather smaller blooms, which are of an ivory
white with greenish veins. The typical form is a
native of the Andes of Ecuador, and enjoys strong
heat and plenty of moisture under cultivation. —
W. H. G.

Oncidium Iianceanum. — This, although a
difficult plant to grow, is certainly very beautiful
when seen in bloom, and I recently noticed a fine
well-flowered specimen in the collection of Sir F.
Wigan, of East Sheen. This species belongs to
that section of Oncidiums which produces no
pseudo-bulbs. The leaves proceed from a stout
rhizome and measure from 1 foot to 18 inches in

STAN HOPEAS.
Were the flowers of Stanhopeas not so fleeting
they would undoubtedly soon become very
popular plants, as they are easily grown and
very free blooming. The singular and gro-
tesque-looking flowers are, moreover, just the
class to appeal to Orchid fanciers, and they are
also deliciously scented. About twenty specus
are described, all good kinds and worth grow-
ing, but those mentioned below are the most
distinct and generally grown. The flower-
scapes being rather short and proceeding in a
downward direction, rather shallow baskets
should be used, and these made open at the
bottom. Wire baskets are often used, but
those made from teak rods are just as suitable
—in fact I have found them do better in the
latter. A suitable compost will consist of equal
parts of peat and loam fibre, with a liberal ad-
mixture of small crocks and charcoal, clean
Sphacmum Moss being used to line the baskets
and For surfacing. Some large pieces of char-
coal must first be laid in the bottoms of the
baskets and fixed as far apart as possible, the
layer of Moss being placed over this to prevent
the peat from swilling downwards. Stan-
hopeas thrive well suspended from the roof in
the East India house, and require an abund
ance of water at the roots while growing, and
the syrince must be used daily over the foliage
to keep red spider in check. Although liking
a clear light, the foliage will be injured by very
bricht sunshine, so that it is necessary to shade
somewhat heavily at midday. Very little watt r
is needed in winter, the Sphagnum absorbing
nearly sufficient from the atmosphere to keep the
plants from shrivelling. When well established
in the baskets Stanhopeas flower freely, and as
soon as the blossoms open the plants must be
taken to a cool house and kept quite dry, when
they last nearly a week, but the plants often
flower three or four times in one season.

S BfCEPH\LiTs is a well-known and handsome
species. The pseudo-bulbs are dark green and
the leaves broad, nearly a foot in length. Ine.
flowers are 4 inches across, with broad sepals and
narrow wavy petals, bright yellow with crimson
blotches The column is white, spotted with
purple ; the lip is yellow, and has a pair of
curved horns. It is a native of Equatonal
America, having been first found by Mr. Hart-

390

THE GARDEN

fJuKE 8, 1895.

weg growing on trees in Pocha, near Guaya-
quil, in 1844.

S. Devoniensis was named in honour of the
late Duke of Devonshire, in whose collection it
first flowered. It is a large- flowered kind, orange-
yellow in ground colour, thickly spotted and
blotched with brownish crimson. The column
and lip are white, the latter with a deep purple
stain. A native of Peru, whence it was intro-
duced about 1835.

S. ijrandiflora is a chaste and lovely Orchid,
fairly plentiful in collections and deservedly ap-
preciated. The flowers, pure white, with the ex-
ception of a few minute spots of red about the lip,
frequently each measure 6 inches across. This
is synonymous with S. eburnea, and is a common
plant in British Guiana and Venezuela.

S. ecornuta, as the specific name implies, is
remarkable in having no horns on the lip, as in
the other kinds. The flowers are creamy white
on the sepals and petals, lip orange-yellow at the
base, paler in front. It is not often seen in col-
lections, and is a native of the east coast of
America. Introduced about 1845.

S. insignts is the species upon which Sir W.
Hooker founded the genus in compliment to
Earl Stanhope. The flowers are each 5 inches
across, pale yellow, sometimes nearly white,
spotted with purple. It is a native of Brazil,
and first flowered in this country as long ago

£IS YoZ i .

S. oculata is a variable, but beautiful kind,
the flowers of different shades of yellow, usually
spotted with lilac-purple. This flowers in the
autumn, and is a native of Central America. In-
troduced in 1840.

S. platyoeras is a native of New Grenada,
whence it was introduced by Messrs. Hugh Low
and Co., and flowered by the late Mr. John Day,
of Tottenham, in 1867. The flowers are very
large, pale yellow, with rosy lilac spots on the
sepals and petals ; the lip and column greenish
white, marked with purple.

S. tiorina is a well-known and strikingly hand-
some Orchid, which has been known to cultivation
more than fifty years, having been introduced by
Messrs. Low and Co. from Mexico before 1839,
when it was figured in the Botanical Register.
The flowers are most peculiar in shape and vari-
able in colour. This is usually dull yellow, more
or less thickly spotted with purple. Another
beautiful and graceful kind is

S. VVardi, the flowers golden yellow, spotted
with crimson ; the lip has a dark velvety purple
blotch at the base. It is a native of Guatemala
Introduced in 1836. H. R.

batween Lrclia cinnabarina and Cattleja Mossise ; the
sepals and petals of a clear orange-yellow ; the side
lobes of the same colour, veined with carmine, whilst
the front lobe is heavily blotched with velvety crim-
son.—W. H. G.

Trichopilia crispa marginata.— One of the

handsomest kinds in this useful genus is the one here
mentioned, and which is flowering profusely with Mr.
J. Cypher, of Cheltenham. The flowers are large,
the sepals and petals more or less twisted, of a deep
rosy carmine colour, distinctly margined with a broad
band of white. It requires a rather warmer tempera-
ture than the better-known T. suavis. It is known in
many gardens as T. gloxinimflora. — W. U. G.

Cypripedium Rothsehildianuin . — Intro-
duced inl887 by Messrs. Sander and Co., of St. Albans,
this remarkable and distinct Cypripedium has become
quite a general favourite, and is now to be seen in
nearly every collection. At the recent Temple show
many fine pieces were staged, carrying several flowers
of very bright and pleasing colours. A nice specimen
with six blooms was particularly noticeable in the
collection of Sir F. Wigan, of East Sheen. — W.

Masdevallia Harryana luteo-oculata.—
This variety is very dist net, the flower being rich
crimson-scarlet, with a striking large eye of bright 5 el-
low in the centre. This I recently noticid in the col-
lection of Sir Trevor Lawrence, and also M. Harryana
Mundyana, a remarkable variety with flowers of an in-
tensely rich colour. M. Harryana miniata is also one
that stands out very conspicuous, on account of its
rich vermillion shade and crimson veins. — W. G.

Cypripedium calanthum.— This beautiful
hybrid was recently in flower in the collection of Sir
Trevor Lawrence, Bart., the plant carrying nine line
blooms. It is a cross raised in Messrs. Veitch's
nursery and flowered for the first time just fifteen
years ago. The parents are C. barbatum Crossi and
C. Lowi. It, however, has ore serious disadvantage
in that the leaves become spotted, these spots gradually
but quickly increasing in size until the whole leaf is
rotten and has to be cutaway. In the specimen above
referred to, however, tie foliage was quite fieshand
hea'thy.

SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS.

Brassavola glauca thrives well under the
same treatment as the Mexican Lajlias. It usually
produces its blooms during the months of February,
March and April, and the flowers last a long time in
perfection. The sepals and petals are tale olive-
green and the lip white. — G.

Dendrobium Dalhousianum — This is one of
the most stately Dendrobiums, and a kind that al-
ways attracts attention whenever seen in flower. The
la.ceme carries five to nine large blooms, each upwards
of 5 inches across ; the flowers ate nankeen-yellow,
shaded and veined with rose, the concave lip having a
large maroon blotch on each side near the base, fringed
at the margin and somewhat hairy.

Cattleya Skinneri alba.— TVs is a charming
companion to the typical form wi h its rosy purple
flowers. A fine specimen with numerous spikes of
bloom was shown by Baron Schrcedtr at the Temple
The flowers are quite as large as those of the
type, pure white, with the exception of a small blotch
of purple at the extreme base of the lip, which, how-
ever, is not noticeable as the blooms stand on the
plant.— W. H. G.

Lsslio-Cattleya Hippolyte.-This hybrid was
shown lately at the Temple by several exhibitors
and under two names, some naming it as above and
others Lseho-Cattleya Phcebe. It appears to be a crc ss

Flower Garden.

PACKING BULBS.
A correspondent from WellingtoD, some 400
miles to the north of this, writes to me to in-
quire about the proper treatment for Narcissus
cyclamineus (1) in respect of transmission to the
colony, and (2) as to the proper treatment on
receiving it. He has imported bulbs from
various firms and in evt ry case has failed with
them. Unfortunately, his expeiienceso exactly
coincides with my own, that I could offer no
advice at first hand. 1 could only say that I
have ordered bulbs this year from two different
firms, and that with some of these, if they arrive
safe, I intend to try a kind of half-bog treat-
ment. As to the best means of transmitting
bulbs like those of cyclamineus — which I sup-
pose do not bear transmission so well as stronger
varieties — my correspondent favours packing in
cocoa-nut fibre. 1 daresay this would be a good
medium for packing ; the dry fibre would absorb
any moisture thrown off in transit and so prevent
decay. I have received such very critical things
as Hepaticas in fibre, and though they arrived
dust-dry and seemingly quite dead, many of
them came round in time after lying dormant
for eight months or so. I am bound to say,
however, that a second consignment packed in
a case with P;eonies and German Irises, where
they must have had some moisture, came to
hand in better condition and not a plant failed.
My experience goes to prove that the best
material for packing delicate bulbs is cotton
wool. Mr. Ware packs small bulbs in this
material and they arrive here in fine condition.
Last year I received from Mr. Ware some score
varieties of autumn Crocus, three bulbs of each.
Each set of three was packed separately in a
little paper bag in a nest of cotton wool. The

bulbs were small, like peas many of them, but
with two exceptions they came out of their
wrappings as firm, fresh and silky as when they
went in. Varieties of Snowdrop in the same
consignment did not fare so well ; they were
packed, if I remember, in hemp husks. At
any rate they were carefully enough put up, but
of six varieties only plicatus showed grass.
Some were like dried fungus and went to
powder in the hand. I may say that Galanthus
Elwesi was not among the six varieties ordered.
Elwesi and plicatus are the two Snowdrops that
travel best and that thrive best in our climate.
A useful lesson also in how not to pack was
given in this consignment, and since I have
mentioned the good points in Mr. Ware's system
of packing, I may perhaps be allowed to point
out where a mistake was made. Amongst
other Snowdrops I ordered 100 of the common
single and 100 of the double. Fine large bulbs
of these were sent, but each 100 had been put
without any packing material into a paper bag ;
the consequence was that one bulb infected the
other because there was no absorbent of the
moisture thrown off, so that when they reached
me they were a mass of blue fungus with not a
sound bulb amongst them. I suppose the reason
for so packing the common Snowdrops in this
way was that it would have taken up too much
space to imbed them in a packing matrix of any
kind, seeing that they had to be sent by post.
Subsequently to this consignment I received
another of Daffodils. Various Corbularias and
such small varieties were again packed in cotton
wool, each set in a little bag by themselves, and
they all came in excellent condition. Corbularia
monophylla had sprouted an inch or so in
transit, the sprouts pushing their way through
the wool, but they were not much the worse,
for they have made healthy grass though they
have not flowered. The other Corbularias, con-
spicua and citrina, flowered very well. Whilst
dealing with this subject I might mention an-
other instance of packing which struck me as
worth noting. Some three or four years ago 1
received from Barr and Son some few species of
Anemone which had been ordered on my part
without any very certain hope of receiving such
things in good condition. They were such va-
rieties as Pulsatilla, rivularis, blanda, apennina
alba,nemorosa var. Robinsoniana, and palmata.
Every one of these without exception reached
me in a sound condition. Each species
was separately done up in oiled silk (or
some such air-tight material), so that there
could have been no evaporation during transit.
On being unwrapped from the covering the
tubers, most of them a little sprouted, looked as
fresh, plump, and moist as if they lad been just
dug out of their native wood or meadow. This,
then, is apparently the way to send those stocky
or tuberous roots which retain stored in them
a large supply of nutritive matter, but which at
the same time are impatient of being kept out
of the moist ground. Now Messrs. Boozen
and Son, of Haarlem, advise their colonial
clientele (very properly and honestly, I think)
of certain more or less choice things which
it is difficult or impossible to send out_ to
the Australasian colonies in good condition.
The evidence of such a firm, with their enor-
mous experience in packing for every quarter
of the globe, ought to be incontrovertible and
final. Yet facts are facts, and, backed by these,
I venture to make my cwn comments on Messrs.
Rcozen's list, knowing that the firm will wel-
come all information bearing on their business.
In the list of plants "giving nearly always a
total loss on arrival," numbering in all eighty-
four, occur such names as Anemone nemorosa
(all), A. ranunculoides, Crocus, Galanthus. I

June 8, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

391

have already meutioned my experience of
various Anemones. As to what Messrs. Roozen
say about Crocuses, I am surprised that such
should be their experience ; it is not mine. I
should say that the cases in which consignments
of Crocus go wrong are greatly the exception,
and not the rule, that is, when the bulbs are
well ripened, properly packed, and sent at the
proper time. I once got a consignment of
Crocuses myself from Messrs. Roozen. I can-
not say I was very successful with them, but
that was my fault, not the fault of the bulbs,
which reached me in as sound a state as when
they were lifted. If I had planted them at
once in the open garden in somewhat light soil,
I should probably not have lest a bulb, but
acting on advice, I treated them otherwise, with
some expense of trouble to myself, and lost
them. Friends of mine who have had similar
importations from this firm have saved every
bulb. As regards autumn - flowering Crocus
species, which I should suppose are more diffi-
cult subjects than the Dutch varieties, I have
already mentioned my experience in importing
them. As to Galanthus, I cannot say how such
varieties as Fosteri, Parryi, Redoutei carry. I
have received them only once, and though they
were carefully packed, they were mere blue
fungus when they reached me. But Galanthus
plicatus, I should say, is a very transmittable
bulb. So is Elwesi, and so are the ordinary
single and double Snowdrops if they are care-
fully packed in some absorbent material like
dry cocoa-nut fibre. Chinese Sacred Narcissus
is one of the eighty-four "total loss" subjects.
If the bulbs are obtained from China and thru
sent out here, it is quite likely that this bulb
would fail. But they are plentiful enough here,
imported direct from China and sold by China-
men. No doubt alpine things like Saxifiages
and Gentians are not easily sent on so long a
journey. I should think they could be sent out
only in a Wardian case after having been tho-
roughly established in pots. ( >n the other
hand, such plants as the various aquatics, Caly-
stegia, Dielytras, Ranunculus of various species,
Tricyrtis, and others of the "almost total loss"
list would probably travel very well if they
were packed in oiled silk or some such material.
Following this list of Messrs. Roozen's is an-
other list of forty-nine species or genera of
plants which "give more losses than the ordi-
nary amount." On that list I have not much
criticism to otter. Iris anglica is, 1 know, a very
poor traveller. Lachenalias I should have ex-
pected to travel pretty well, but I have never
imported them. I am a little surprised to
know that Cyclamens give trouble. The only
consignment I have had were of the hardy
spring kinds, coum and its tribe (from Roozen),
but these did very well, and this spring they
have been pretty and attractive. The most in-
teresting item to myself in Roozen's second list
is " Fritillaria (various)." I should have ex-
pected the Fritillary to be in the list of " almost
total loss." I do not know about the Crown
Imperial section, but the various species carry
very badly. F. Meleagris, the white and the
chequered, and F. pyrenaica are fairly plentiful
in my garden, but with the other species I have
hitherto been unsuccessful. I should like to
possess every Fritillary that grows, but I have
come to the conclusion that these quaint flowers
are not for us. All 'the same, I believe the
bad success attending the importation of the
Fritillaries is due to the "dry" system of
packing. They are treated like Daffodil,
Snowdrop, or Si ilia bulbs, which may be
completely dried off ; whereas the Fritillary
does not like being out of the ground even
for a short period. Two or three months

of complete diyness so shrivels the tubers up
as to destroy their vitality. If they were packed
as Barr and Son pack the species of Anemone,
in some material that would prevent too rapid
evaporation, 1 believe Fritillaries would travel
with perfect safety. It may be said that it
would not pay a large and busy firm to vary its
system of packing in this way to suit the re-
quirements of various plants. But let bull) firms
charge for any such extra packing. I am sure
colonial buyers would be content to bear any
reasonable charges of this kind. As it is, I cal-
culate that the Fritillaries in my garden have
cost me a thousand per cent, over catalogue
prices.

Yet another experience in the importation of
plants, this time of shrubby things. My belief
is that most things of moderate size may be sent
most cheaply, safely and expeditiously by parcels
post. With the view of trying whether it would
not be possible by this means to obtain the
various species of Roses — our nurserymen can
generally supply the sensation Hybrid Per-
petuals, but for the most part ignore the species
that have not been "improved" — I sent lately a
small trial order to a home firm. The experi-
ment was a signal failure, and for quite assign-
able reasons. First the grower would choose
his own time of sending and not the time sug-
gested by me. Home growers will p. rsist in
claiming to know the requirements of our season
and climate better than we know them our-
selves. If growers ever so far unbind them-
selves as to do what is requested, it is with a
tone of protest, half of pity for our ignorance
and half of irritation at being asked to do what
they have not been accustomed to do. If they
would only say, "No, thanks ; your orderis not
good enough to make it worth our while, and
you must go somewhere else," no one could
have anything to object to. What they do in
effect say is either " We will execute your order,
but in our way, not yours," or " We will ext cute
your order and according to your instructions,
but permit us to insinuate, with as much cour-
tesy as the delicate relations of seller and buyer
permit, that you are a fool." To return to the
order of Roses. As far as I remember 1 suggested
that the proper time for packing th» Roses and
despatching them on their trans-equatorial trip
would be the end of the English autumn
or beginning of winter. It is true that
growth might not have absolutely ceased
by that time. There are some Rose s in which
growth never ceases, but most Roses have by
the end of autumn laid in supplies and are
ready for the winter sleep. If they are cut
back sufficiently far for the requirements of the
post and properly packed, they ought to do the
six weeks' journey across the tropics without
any fatal results. They would reach here about
midsummer, and would start away growing at
once without any further hesitation than a feel-
ing of wonder that summer had come round so
soon again. Despatched in November, they
would reach here about Christmas or new year,
a time when any stick of a Rose would grow
right away and probably give an autumn bloom.
Month passed after month, however, and I sup-
posed the order had been forgotten. At length
in March, when we are within measurable dis-
tance of winter, I got a letter and invoice dated
February 7. The letter ran : "Here Roses go
on growing and flowering until November, and
some Chinas and others until Christmas ; so it
would never do to send them on so long a
journey unripened. Now they are quite ripe
and dormant, and it occurred to me that they
would, sent now, reach you when your days
are beginning to shorten." This is the kind of
well-meant wisdom that is so exasperating to

those who order plants from home growers.
As if we did not know what Roses did there in
November and December ! It is surely not the
month of January that ripens wood in Ireland.
Nor do we want to plant imported Roses when
the " days are beginning to shorten and become
cooler" ("beginning!" when we are within
three months of the shortest day!). I only
wish my Irish grower could have a little of the
weather we sometimes have at midsummer, and
he would find it cool enough for starting Roses.
As for the invoice, it contained names to make
the mouth water — Old Red Cabbage, pyrenaica,
alba, and so on — the sorts of Roses one hopes
to see again before one dies. When the box
arrived some time after receipt of the in-
voice there was not a living Rose in the
parcel. But though I blame the grower for
not sending the Roses at the time I wished
them sent, I do not blame him because the
Roses were all dead on arrival. His pack-
ing was most careful, and the plants, as
as far I could judge, had been good strong
plants when they were put up. I have never
received a consignment in which more care was
shown. But for all that I believe the system
of packing was a mistake. The Roses were put
up on the " dry " system, firmly wrapped round
with light soil and Moss and packed in a wooden
box. There was too much room for evapora-
tion. What happened was that the Roses had
been baked on their journey as in a kiln, and
so each plant was bone-dry. The system of
packing would have been admirable for Cac-
tuses, but some more moist way is necessary
for woody things like Roses. If they had been
packed moist they would probably have sprouted
on the way, but they would not have been
much the worse for that.

My Wellington correspondent also mentions
incidentally another point about which growers
on this side of the world have sometimes reason
to complain. Instead of adhering to the terms
of the order, certain things ordered are omitted
and a double or treble quantity sent of some-
thing else. I cannot say that this has ever
been my experience, but my correspondent
mentions the name of a somewhat famous
Daffodil grower (not English) who, in spite of
remonstrance, repeated this style of treatment
in a second order, and, to make matters worse,
some of those sent were wrongly named. I
suppose mistakes in naming are inevitable in
the best regulated firms, but really such mis-
takes are sometimes surprising. For three
yeais have I been nursing Narcissus tridymus
Duchess of Albany, and this year it promised a
flower. Joy ! expectation ! daily watching of
the bloom plumping. It is so large, so vigor-
ous, really almost indelicately strong, corpu-
lent—indeed, like a double. It bursts— it is a
double ! the common double yellow Telamonius
plenus. I shall order Duchess of Albany again
—perhaps, and in three years it may show
flower— that is, seven years from the time of
my first ordering the bulb.

Yesterday 1 received from Florida a small
consignment of plants, which in its way serves
to pomt a moral. With the exception of some
half-dozen Orchids the plants were the easiest
of all plants to transmit— Cactuses, namely.
But really it was good to see how they came out
of their swaddlings, each one as green, plump,
and fresh as when it grew in Florida. Even the
root fibres were white and fresh. Now, easy as
Cactuses are to send, there is a wrong way of
sending even these. Last year I also received
a consignment from America (not from Florida),
perhaps some two or three dozen varieties.
They were packed in a case, and well packed,
but sent first to London, thence to be shipped

392

THE GARDEN.

[June 8, 1895.

hither. They must have been about three
months on the way, and when they arrived the
condition of some of them was shocking to see.
What had been a fine plant of Echinocactus
Wislizeni was a mass of decay, and others were
just as bad. My mistake was in sending an
order large enough to justify packing in a case,
and I might give this "wrinkle" to those who
send to the other side of the world for plants :
" Let your orders be small." Yet if plant mer-
chants would only execute orders as the Messrs.
Reasoner Bros., of Florida, execute theirs, one
might send an order of any size with the cer-
tainty of getting one's plants in the shortest
possible time. They use somewhat long narrow
boxes made of the thinnest possible wood, and
therefore very light. Each box holds several
plants and costs in postage 4 or 5 cents. I re-
ceived five of these boxes, and the plants reached
me in prime condition (probably within a month
of their leaving the nursery) and exactly at the
best time of the year, just as we are turning the
spring equinox. The Orchids were almost as
fresh as the Cactuses. Of course, this style of
packing suits only such plants as are in some
degree succulents.

February 12, 1895. —Since I wrote the above
notes on various systems of packing bulbs for
export I have received a letter from my Welling-
ton friend, from which I venture to quote a
passage : —

_ Since I wrote I have received N. cyelamineus —
six bulbs. Four have grown, one of which has thrown
up a flowering stem. They were packed in cocoa-nut
fibre along with some varieties of N. triandrus, which
had cardboard labels attached. The cardboard had
become much mildewed and all near the labels were
destroyed by the same thing. Fortunately, the bulbs
of X. cyelamineus were far enough removed from the
la'iels to escape. The labels should have been either
wood or lpad ; the last is best. I have also had a
pickage ci herbaceous plan's from M (prin-
cipally varieties of Lychnis), who were instructed
to pack in cocoa-nut fibre, not Sphagnum, but, like
other English nurserymen, they think their own way
better, and sent the plants packed in Sphagnum. The
result has been almost total failure.

Yes, this is very exasperating. I think I almost
prefer the treatment 1 receive from my own
favourite London firm, to whom I sent au order
for bulbs exactly eight months ago. Promptly
by return of post I received an acknowledg-
ment of my " esteemed remittance,'' with a civil
type-written note intimating that I should hear
from the firm by the next mail ; and that is the
last I have heard of my order. Still, I prefer
that my bulb merchant should bank my "es-
teemed remittance " rather than send me stuff
badly packed— Lychnis packed in Sphagnum,
par exemple— or send me bulbs too late in the
season. And thereby hangs a tale. On the
same day, eight months ago, on which I sent
the " esteemed remittance " for an order that
has not yet been executed I sent another re-
mittance for an order that has been executed,
and well executed I am sure as regards the
quality of the bulbs, though it came late beyond
all my calculations, at a time indeed when I was
some 2000 miles from home. Their interim
treatment in white sand during my absence has,
I am afraid, not been to their advantage. These
were despatched from Ireland about November 1
(the invoice is dated October 24), and as the
order was exclusively for Daffodils, it would, I
think, be difficult to advance any intelligible
reason why they had not been despatched a
mouth or six weeks earlier. A. Wilson.

Dunedin, X.Z.

Hardy flowars.— Judging by the number of
inquiries made of the attendants at the hardy
flower tables at the recent Temple show, it would
seem as if the demand for various varieties was

still very great. So much the better ; but whilst
many have got almost everything, or at least know
them pretty well, there are others who want hardy
flowers for special purposes, such as for cutting
to dress vases, &c. , a purpose for which myriads of
hardy flowers are specially fitted, but very many
others are unfitted. A few selected from those in
bloom in May shown at the Temple were as follows :
Thalictrum aquilegiadolium, in various shades of
pale red or pink ; flowers borne on tall stems and
presenting roundish tufts of fine feathery petals,
very light and pleasing. Aster alpinu3, not more
than 9 inches in height ; flowers single, resem-
bling those of a Stenactis in form and colour, a very
charming thing. Aquilegias chiefly of the hybrid
forms no w so familiar, easily grown and very elegant.
These seemed to attract great attention. Achillea
mongolica has clusters of small single white flowers
borne in great profusion to a height of some 2|
feet, a far prettier thing for cutting than is the
double A. ptarmica. Heuchera sanguinea, now so
well known, but hardly so perhaps is the beautiful
deep rich red-flowered form known as atro-
sanguinea, of which there were several fine
bunches that were very effective. Erigeron
philadelphicum has single flowers of a pretty rosy
pink colour, and borne in clusters on stems 12
inches in height ; these are very graceful and
pleasing. The yellow-tinted Euphorbia pilosa
gives very useful foliage for arranging with
the flowers referred to. Geum miniatum has
single flowers of reddish orange, borne on stems
20 inches in height, and very pretty. The
taller Saxifrages, such as pyramidalis, and even
London Pride have elegant light flowers, whilst
larger ones also very graceful are furnished by
the perennial Centaureas, of which there are
several colours. — A. D.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
Colour in pleasure grounds. — In the notes on
this subject in last week's Garden I omitted to
mention that where large quarters of young
seedling Rhododendrons exist, it is advisable to
run through them once or twice while they are in
flower to pick out any different shades of colour
that are to be found. Sometimes even in very large
brakes nothing fresh is obtainable, and then,
again, one may go to another brake and find per-
haps a dozen plants that differ considerably from
the type, either much darker in colour, or almost
approaching white. If some matting is taken, it
can be fastened to any different shades that may
be selected, and a variety in colour thereby se-
cured either to form separate beds or for mixing
with other things. Of course, the same end can
be effected even more thoroughly by planting
hybrids, but then the purchase of the latter where
considerable quantities are required is a very ex-
pensive business. In the matter of Azalea pontica
I should like to mention that a good stock of
plants can be obtained by sowing seed in boxes
or frames, and transferring to nursery beds so
soon as the seedlings can be handled until the
plants are sufficiently large to warrant putting
them out in the open. It is rather late now for
seed-sowing, but large bushes may be examined
to see if any of the pods remain intact, and if this
is so, a little seed may yet be sown, as young
plants are always useful where there is the oppor-
tunity for planting flowering shrubs in quantity.

May flowers— Pyrethrums.— The fine display
of Pyrethrums at the Temple show recalls the
time when the family was but scantily represented
either as to quality or quantity, and now it is un-
doubtedly one of the best known May flowers.
Although Pyrethrums will flower after a fashion
on poor soil, they are not seen to advantage under
such conditions, the foliage being weakly and the
flowers of poor quality and scantily produced.
Where the soil is naturally light and poor it is a
good plan when planting to have a heap of
partially decomposed cow manure at hand, in-
corporating this with the soil as the work pro-
gresses. It has a tendency to bind the soil a bit
as well as to enrich it to give a little of the loamy
consistency that is necessary to the successful

cultivation of this plant. A good surface mulching
is also advisable at planting time, an operation, it
may be added, that should always receive atten-
tion in the autumn, and not be left until the be-
ginning of the year when growth is on the move.
So soon as the first flowers are over the plants may
be trimmed over a bit and receive if the weather is
dry a good soaking of liquid manure ; if showery,
another mulching of farmyard manure will answer
the purpose. This will encourage fresh growth
and flowers, the latter in nothing like the profusion
of spring, but yet sufficient to make the groups
fairly gay. Any amount of varieties are now
catalogued, but it is advisable to pick a few of tho
best in different shades of colour. Aphrodite,
Florentine, Leonard Kelway, Ormonde, Meton and
Pericles are a good half dozen.

Heuchera sanguinea. — The fact that this
beautiful flower was also seen at the Temple show
in quantity is a capital guarantee of its hardiness ;
it was later than usual this year, but flowered
remarkably well. I have it on a very narrow
border in small clumps associated with a special
favourite (Saxifraga umbrosa) and the contrast be-
tween the spikes of the two flowers as they wave
gently in the breeze is very pleasing.

Irises. — The remarks made above as to the late
flowering of the Heuchera are applicable to those
Irises that commence to flower as a rule about the
end of March. Instead of March flowering, how-
ever, few of them were out this year until the be-
ginning of of May, and are therefore, so far as 1895
is concerned, contemporary with the germanica
section. All members of the Iris family are seen
to the best advantage in a deep rather loamy soil,
and once planted should not be disturbed. Given
such a soil, they will last in capital condition for
many years: indeed, individual clumps will go on
increasing in size and in the quantity of flowers
produced with each succeeding season. Like
other plants of somewhat similar foliage and
habit, as Hemerocallis and Funkias, they present a
beautiful appearance when naturalised on grass,
and in a cool, partially shaded spot very fine
flowers and foliage are secured. It may be noted
of this family that when using them for vase- work
it is advisable if possible to put them up with their
own foliage, a remark that also applies to Paionies,
another gorgeous May flower. Blooms of very
large size, whether of peculiar shape, as the Iris,
or globular, as the P.vony, look altogether out of
character with tiny delicate foliage. Another
point in connection with the best known families
among herbaceous plants that is deservedly re-
ceiving increased attention is the advisability of
planting each separate family together in con-
siderable quantities. If large beds isolated on
turf can be devoted to them, so much the better;
if not, each should command at different points on
the herbaceous borders sufficient space to show it
off to the best advantage. A big gathering of
Pentstemons, Phloxes, both early and late flower-
ing, and Antirrhinums well massed together in
different varieties is immeasurably superior to a
display of summer bedding plants.

Flowers for Whitsuntide. — Since starting
these notes there has been an application for
flowers in great variety for church decoration for
Whit Sunday, and nearly all the hardy things
enumerated will come in very acceptable, white
flowers being supplied — in addition to Rhododen-
drons of that shade — by Deutzias, Guelder Roses
and the newer forms of Weigelas. The diffeient
shades of Rhododendron ponticum will help t >
furnish big masses of colour, large branches of
the same being taken off to do duty as pot plants,
and fine-foliage hardy and half-hardy supplied by
Bamboos, Cannas, &c. As every gardener knows
to his cost, greenhouse plants are practically
crippled for the remainder of the season if
employed in such work, and the utilisation of
hardy stuff, where obtainable, is a great boon,
besides producing for the brief period required an
equally telling effect. The Deutzias, it may be
noted, that are available are old forced plants that
have been outside some two or three seasons, and
are this year flowering very freely.

Claremont. E. Burrell.

June 8, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

393

TUFTED PANSIES.
There is a point in this appellation of these
well-known hardy flowers that usually escapes
notice, though often hardly criticised. It is the
fact that the chief beauty of these plants lies in
their tufted or clustered habits. Growers to dis-
play their varieties have taken to show flowers
in spray fashion, and very pretty they look, but
no method of showing them can less correctly
convey what are the natural characteristics of
these tufted Pansies. Even a bed full of small

beautiful all though the autumn. It is such
masses as these which so fully justify the appella-
tion now commonly given to one of the most
charming of hardy flowering plants. Cuttings
taken from the young shoots that break up so
densely from old plants after being cut overin the
summer and inserted thickly in sandy soil under
a north wall or under handlights or in a frame,
standing so all the wiuter and planted out as
strong plants in May, will, if put out fairly close
togetb er, grow into very effective masses, although

A hybrid Tobacco. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by
Mr. L. Burbank, Santa Rosa, California.

plants fails to show their value. Only when
seen in large tufted clusters are the real charms
of these flowers fully displayed. Those who
want to see them at their best should plant early
in the autumn and get the plants well rooted
before the middle of winter. That is the way
to have fine broad clumps blooming profusely in
April, May and June, when usually Violas are
seen at their best. If such clumps as these be
cut over in July, have a liberal soaking of water
and a top dressing of old pot soil given them,
they soon get into flower again and are very

they do not show that same tufted quality that
old plants exhibit. It is when grown in either
of these ways that their value for ordinary
border, bedding or rockwork planting is seen.
Then, scores that are very pretty set up in
sprays at shows are found to be of poor effect.
If not of special value for such purposes, it is
difficult to und erstand why so many of these tufted
Pansies should be put into commerce. When
the very best are secured, who wants the refuse
even if in raisers' estimation ever so pretty l
These plants have of late been receiving spe-

cial notice at Birmingham and from many diverse
aspects. One thing merits especial attention.
It is certain that, arising either from the introduc-
tion of more suitable varieties, or because our
seasons are now less trying, tufted as well as or-
dinary bedding Pansies now seem to withstand
southern summer weather better than formerly.
I am referring to spring-planted plants, because
there was a time in my experience several years
since when these used to die off wholesale after
hot weather set in. It was difficult to find the
real cause, but one existed that baffled best
efforts to find out. Soakings of water seemed
at times to rather accelerate than check the
evil. Whether due to a fungus or what cause
could not be discovered. It was, however, an
undoubted fact that the evil was rarely opera-
tive in the case of old plants or those put out
in the [autumn, and thus not only well esta-
blished, but having several shoots or stems on
them. Usually the disease, if it was such, was
attributed to heat. If so, we ought to have
seen these Pansies severely injured in 1893, but
they did, having regard to the heat and the
drought, pull through pretty well. I saw that
year in Kent on an open, exposed site most
beautiful masses of plants far excelling any-
thing usually seen in gardens, and yet far re-
moved from water. They were spring-planted,
but chiefly of varieties introduced within the
past six or seven years. It is, indeed, a great
gain to be able to summer these tufted Pansies
in this way in the usually too arid south. For
such uses as are termed summer bedding, they
now rank amongst the most persistent bloomers
and the most beautiful. A few good sorts of
distinctive colours suffice, and from these may
be obtained effects of the most attractive de-
scription. A. D.

A HYBRID TOBACCO.
The photograph of the very notable plant here
figured Mr. Burbank sends us from his garden
in California. He describes it as a hybrid be-
tween Nicotiana colossea and N. wigandioides,
and much finer than either parent. Evidently
the plant is worth inquiring about, judging
from its growth in a climate like that of Cali-
fornia.

Losses in herbaceous plants. — We have
this spring to bemoan the loss of many valuable
denizens of our herbaceous borders. Romneya
Coulteri, which had made strong sappy growth
at the end of the year, was cut to the ground, the
mischief extending to the roots, moat of which
were rotten when the plant was lifted a short
time since. Such roots as were sound were cut
off and laid in damp cocoa-nut fibre at the shady
end of the greenhouse, as recommended on page
101, vol. xxix. , of The Garden. Erigeron speeio-
su8 (often known as Stenactis speciosa) and E.
mucronatus (the Mexican Daisy), the latter an
almost perpetual bloomer and quite a gem in its
way, are dead, as are Stokesia cyanea, Scabiosa
caucasica, Coreopsis grandiflora, Linum flavum,
and the Tree Lupin. These, with the many
beautiful flowering shrubs that have been killed
or badly injured by the severe winter, have made
gaps in the borders, which it will be hard to
adequately fill during the present year. Curiously
enough, the slugs and snails, contrary to expecta-
tion, are more troublesome than has been the case
for many years. While the arctic winter seems
not to have aQected them in the least, the ranks
of their natural enemies, the birds, have been
sadly thinned, which may in part account for the
present visitation. — S. W. F., Torquay,

Incarvillea Delavayi. — I note in your last
issue of The Garden that Sir T. Lawrence showed
this plant in flower at the Temple show, and for
which a first-class certificate was awardeil by the
Royal Horticultural Society. A very fine speci-
men of this rare Chinese plant was also exhi-

394

THE GARDEN

[June 8, 1895.

bited by Mr. Thos. Smith, of Newry, at the
Ierne Bazaar, held in Dublin last week, where it
was much admired on Mrs. F. Trouton's Bower
stall. The plant was growing in a pot and had
been wintered in a cool house, but other speci-
mens have passed through the late severe winter
in the open air at Newry, and are now throwing
up their leaves and flower-scapes. The flowering
specimen referred to above had four or five very
stout pinnate leaves 10 inches or 12 inches in
length, of a deep green colour, and of leathery
substance. The flower-stalk was 1"> inches to 18
inches in height, and bore four to six very large
rosy flowers not unlike those of Bignonia gtandi-
flora. One curious point about the flower is the
highly sensitive stigma, which is two-lipped, as in
the genus Mimulus, and the expanded lips close
quite suddenly on the stigma being artificially
irritated. Although the plant is, under favour-
able outdoor conditions, perfectly hardy, the
large tubular flowers do not appear likely to
withstand high winds or heavy rains with im-
punity, and it may be wisest to treat the plant as
half-hardy for the sake of seeing its showy flowers
at their freshest and best. It is one of the most
remarkable of new plants from China, and pro-
mises to become a valuable addition to greenhouse
flowering plants. — F. W. B.

I have now in flower Incarvillea Delavayi.

It is in the open border, where it has been a year
or more, having stood the full brunt of a zero
temperature. I have a smaller plant in a pot, but
not so forward and not nearly so fine, a weaker
specimen altogether. It has two stems, bearing
a corymb (which will lengthen out into a raceme)
of twelve or thirteen flowers, Gloxinia or Big-
nonia shaped, tube 2\ inches long, limb 2J inches
across, delicate rose or rosy pink, throat }jellow,
streaked purple. I observe that Mr. Bain, Sir
Trevor Lawrence's gardener, exhibited a plant at
the Temple show raised from seed I supplied
him with in 1893. He has sent me a flower which
shows that my plant is the same, though raised
from Charles Naudin's seed labelled I. nlpina.
No such name is known at Kew, and it is clear it
is only a synonym. — Wm. Thompson, Ipswich.

PINKS.
The cold weather and the accompanying dryness
of soil and temperature are causing Pinks to
spindle, that is, to throwupweakly flowering stems,
whether it be the common garden varieties or the
more refined laced Pinks. Unless warm rains and
a higher temperature come soon, a fine head of
bloom can scarcely be looked for. This is one
reason why Pinks planted in the open in au-
tumn do so much better than those planted in
the spring, and especially is this true of the
florists' laced varieties, and yet many persons do
not think of ordering plants of Pinks from a
nurseryman until April ; and if they are supplied
and planted thus late the flowers are rarely satis-
factory. It used to be the custom with some
trade growers of Pinks to winter some of their
plants in 3-inch pots with which to supply
orders in spring, and when these were carefully
planted out and well looked after they produced
good flowers, though they were never so reliable
in the quality of finish as those planted out in
autumn. It is sometimes said that the florists'
laced Pinks are of no value for borders, but this is a
great mistake, and made only by those who are
imperfectly acquainted with their dense compact
growth and freedom of bloom. Boiard, Empress
of India, John Ball, Mrs. Thos. McCrorie, Modesty
and Mrs. Waite are all capital border varieties.
Other good border Pinks will be found in Anne
Boleyn ; Ascot, pink, with crimson centre ; Mrs.
Lakin, white, dwarf and free ; Alba magnifica and
Snowflake, two excellent white selfs, admirable for
cutting (the three white Pinks just named do not
split the calyx as do the common white and Her
Majesty) ; Souvenir de Sale, deep, rosy pink ; and
of the small-flowered section, which are always so
attractive at the Chiswick gardens — Annie Bolton,
Beauty, Charmer, Hetty Dean, Rosy Circle and
Sir Hugo. Ono of the incidents of the present

spring is the remarkable recuperative power
shown by many of the garden Pinks. Where
they were growing in somewhat low, heavy, moist
land, plants suffered a good deal, but the hardy
border varieties showed remarkable vitality, and
plants which at one time appeared hopeless are
covered with foliage and will bloom freely.

Then of the florists' laced varieties, a few of
the very best will be found in Clara, laced with
reddish purple, fine petal ; Rosy Morn, rose
lacing, large and full ; Harry Hooper, rich dark
lacing, a fine variety ; Boiard, one of the very
best laced varieties, very full, and a good grower;
Modesty, pale rosy purple lacing, an early flower-
ing and excellent exhibition Pink ; Empress of
India, rich dark lacing, a distinct and fine variety ;
Duke of York, a new midland -raised Pink, extra
fine for exhibition, having a rich dark lacing :
The Rector, heavily laced with bright reddish
purple, extra fine ; Favourite, heavily laced with
reddish purple, extra fine ; and Princess Louise,
red laced, large and full.

Pinks do well in ordinary loam and road sand
from a gravelled road and an abundance of well-
decomposed manure. Old lime rubbish suits
the Pink well, but as it is sometimes difficult
to procure, road sand or gravel sand will do
very well. Good Pinks alway repay a mulch-
ing with manure in spring, and in addition
to being a fertiliser, it keeps the soil about the
roots cool and moist. The Pink being quickly
susceptible to drought and injured by it, propa-
gation is done at the end of June or early in July,
pipings or cuttings being made of the young
growths and rooted in sandy soil under a hand-
glass or in a small close frame. Many growers
layer their Pinks as they do their Carnations, and
in this way they obtain strong, vigorous plants
for planting out at the end of the summer to
bloom in the May following. R. D.

Orchard and Fruit Garden,

SELDOM-GROWN GRAPES.

Owing to the rage for large-bunched showy
Grapes, many of the smaller-sized, though ex-
quisitely-flavoured, varieties have gone out of
cultivation, or are found only in isolated places.
This is to be regretted, as in large establish-
ments, at least where there is plenty of glass,
a house might be devoted to their culture ; and
as some of them keep well when thoroughly
ripened, a supply of these rich varieties might
be had over a considerable time. Take the
Frontignans for instance, both the White and
Grizzly being of exquisite flavour and easily
grown on a dry warm soil. The latter is not
taking in appearance owing to its colour, but
the berries are larger than those of the white
variety, and it crops heavily. Both these Grapes
are admirably adapted for pot culture. Duchess
of Buccleuch is another free-growing and free-
bearing Grape, possessing a flavour unsurpassed
by any other, and producing long tapering
bunches. The smallness of its berries is against
it, and has no doubt prevented it from becoming
popular. The Duchess is, however, well worth
growing where room can be spared. Dr. Hogg
— raised by the late Mr. Pearson, of Chilwell
— is a deliciously-flavoured Grape, the bunch
medium-sized, the berries rather small and
round. This Grape also requires good cultiva-
tion and a warm dry soil, but this it will well
repay. Mrs. Pearson and Golden Queen are
also the result of the late Mr. Pearson's skill,
both deserving to be more extensively grown
than they are at present. Under good culture
these will produce bunches and berries large
enough for anything, and the liability of Golden
Queen to become muddy when on the point
of ripening may be overcome by giving the roots

a shallow, somewhat sandy rooting medium, and
a light, airy house with plenty of heat. Mrs.
Pearson has no such defect, and will, in my
opinion, become ere long a leading white
market Grape. Lastly, Royal Vineyard must
be included in the list, as for flavour and keep-
ing qualities it has no equal, Muscat of Alexan-
dria not excepted. The wonder to me is that
while some of the thick-skinned, indifferently-
flavoured late Grapes are grown by almost
everyone, Royal Vineyard should be so seldom
met with.

All the foregoing are well adapted for pot
culture or for growing in limited borders in
small light houses where a certain amount of
bottom heat could be turned on when the Vines
were started. Canes sufficiently strong for
fruiting can be grown in one season. Many
think two seasons are necessary, but the fact is
that in their anxiety to get extra strong rods,
growers use far too large pots and give an un-
naturally strong bottom heat. Such Vines lose
many of their roots in winter, and although they
may break strongly and look well while the
stored-up sap lasts, they ultimately give way
and produce inferior crops of Grapes. I have
grown Vines in pots only 9 inches in diameter
that have fruited well the following year. These
had no actual bottom heat after receiving their
second shift, and instead of being grown on in
a stewing atmosphere, as is too frequently the
case, they had plenty of air, and only an
occasional syringing to keep them free from
spider. In such sized pots the Vines can be fed
without any fear of souring the soil, while the
roots being numerous, hard and healthy, not
only survive the winter, but are ready for action
when started the following spring. If a light
well-glazed lean-to house of medium size contain-
ing a bed furnished with hot- water pipes can be
spared, so much the better, as the young Vines
may then be planted out of 6-inch pots, grown
on the first year and fruited the next. In such
a structure their special wants can be attended
to with comparative ease, and the comparatively
small root run is conducive to a good set, high
finish, and flavour. One amateur in the neigh-
bourhood of London grows these Frontignan
flavoured Grapes very successfully, and should
others who have the convenience follow suit,
they will find them to be not only highly in-
teresting, but profitable. J. Crawford.

Apple Cox's Orange Pippin. — The other
day I was afforded an opportunity of inspecting
the Apple plantations of Mr. Archibald Weir,
near Ottery St. Mary, East Devon, and was much
interested in what I saw. Mr. Weir's orchard lies
at an elevation of 500 feet above sea level, and is
on the side of a hill facing east. The soil, which
has an average depth of 10 inches, and with which
a large percentage of siliceous sand is incorporated,
is light and porous and still contains a considerable
quantity of water-worn pebbles, although many
cartloads have been collected and removed. The
staple may be tersely described as a sandy moor-
land soil. The subsoil consists of a ferruginous
sand, into which the roots show no disposition to
wander. At the first glance both site and soil
appear eminently unsuited to the growth of Apple
trees, but a survey of the 8 acres devoted to their
culture, nine-tenths of which is occupied by Cox's
Orange Pippin on the English Paradise stock,
suffices to assure the doubter that the trees are
happy. A plantation of seven-year-old trees has
stems 0 inches in circumference, the lowest
branches starting a foot from the ground-level and
curving outwards and upwards to a height of 9
feet. The trees are open in the centre and have
from seven to ten main branches, which are well
ripened, short-jointed and carrying a good amount
of blossom. These are the trees from which the
splendid sample of fruit, averaging 9 oz. apiece,

June 8, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

395

which took first prize at the Exeter show in 1893,
were produced, as well as many dozens that were
sold to a West-end, London, fruiterer at 4s. per
dozen, some of which fruits were subsequently re-
tailed at 8d. apiece. There is no d>ubt but that
Cox's Orange Pippin is thoroughly at home in Mr.
Weir's grounds Many oth?r varieties have been
planted experimentally, bat none appear to
flourish so satisfactorily, with, perhaps, the ex-
ception of five trees of Ribston Pippin, which
were looking remarkably well at the time of my
visit. The trees have had no manure, natural or
chemical, either at the time of planting or since,
nor have they ever been mulched, but poultry are
allowed to run in the several plantations. No
crops are grown between the trees, and, the
ground being continually stirred, the surface is al-
ways kept loose. Mr. Weir admits the possibility
of the trees not lasting, but as a contiguous
orchard contains trees fully fifty years old, which
are blossoming profusely and still look in the best
of health, there seems no reason to fear a prema-
ture collapse. The plantations certainly do not
suffer from lack of attention, but no amount of
care will produce perfect trees and fruit of that
prince of Apples, Cox's Orange Pippin, unless soil
and situation are both to its liking. — S. W. F.

Apple King of the Pippins. — There cannot
be any doubt as to the merits of Apple King of
the Pippins, and which has been referred to both
by " W. G. C." and Mr. Wythes. In this district
it is largely grown for market, the farmers secur-
ing a good price for fine fruit. In fact, Prince's
Pippin, the name under which this Apple is
locally known, will always sell well. As to
whether King of the Pippins and the true Prince's
Pippin are synonymous, I now have doubts,
although generally supposed to be. As evidence
of this, at a show last autumn where I was one
of the judges, in a class for six dishes of Apples
distinct, King of the Pippins and Prince's Pippin
were both staged, but although bearing a slight
resemblance, they were both quite distinct.
A local nurseryman also told me — anil he
showed me fruit to bear out his statement
— that they were both distinct and that he
could supply trees of both. So if a person applied
to him for Prince's Pippin he would certainly
not be supplied with King of the Pippins or
Golden Winter Pearmain, although this might be
the variety he required. — A. Yoimo.

APPLE WELLINGTON, OR NORMANTON
WONDER.

Amongst all the many excellent varieties < f
cooking Apples there is none that is in so much
request by tirst-class cooks as the above variety
for mincemeat, and, as a rule, gardeners are
careful to retain it for that purpose. Again, as
a market variety it is deservedly popular, as
proved by the large demands by salesmen for
it about Christmas and early in the new year.
One salesman in the north of England informed
me about two years ago that he should have no
difficulty in disposing of 100 tons per week of
Dumelow's Seedling — a name by which it is
better known in that market than Wellington —
in spite of all the foreign consignments, as even
the most select Canadian or American varieties
could not approach it for cooking and high
quality. In face of these many good recom-
mendations, it may be asked why it is not more
grown to produce fruit in quantity for home
consumption and market work. The reply to
such a query is, that, unfortunately, the tree
does not succeed in an altogether satisfactory
manner on all soils. My experience of the
variety is that it is the soil alone that is the
cause of the trees not answering, as I have seen
and had to deal with the variety in very ex-
posed positions where few sorts of Apples would
grow and bear, but Wellington rarely failed to
be prolific annually, while on richer, deeper

soil, and apparently all in favour of the most
successful results, the trees were very sub-
ject to canker, and made a weak, diseased
growth. Provided a grower is certain that
from actual experience Wellington will not
canker and do well on his soil, I would strongly
suggest planting it on a large scale, as few va-
rieties will pay so well, having in addition to
the advantages enumerated that of being sale-
able at any time from the end of September to
the end of May, or even longer if stored in a
good fruit room. At the latter season good
and even samples will realise from 25s. to
30s. per cwt. through the hands of a sales-
man, probably more if consigned direct to a
fruiterer doing a large business.

Returning to the soil and its effects on the
trees, I believe that it points out to some
element being deficient. It behoves the
grower to try and discover what the lacking
constituent may be, and then supply the same.

On

light soil, bush trees exhibited great

Apple Wellington.

debility, and in spite of mulching with manure
and adding fresh soil to induce a more healthy
and vigorous growth, no improvement occurred
until potash was applied. At first German salt
or kainit was employed at the rate of 4 cwt. or
5 cwt. per acre, but of late years I have used
muriate of potash, as it contains a much greater
proportion of the necessary element, railway
carriage is less, and it is less labour to apply, as
only about half the quantity is required per
acre than with kainit. Since applying potash a
most marked improvement has taken place,
growth being vigorous, the trees prolific, with
fruit of high colour and handsome shape, as in
the illustration. On heavy soil an application
of iron in the form of basic slag might be tried
with, I think, beneficial results. Some trees
that 1 saw in Staffordshire had a dressing
of 4 cwt. per acre, a*d the fruit produced the
year after would have been highly credit-
able to the best district in the kingdom ;
in fact, I have not seen any better coloured
Wellingtons than th<-y were. However, only

careful experiments will prove what is the
most suitable chemical manure to apply, as on
some land none of the above might be of much
service, and lime be the chief element absent.
In such cases I would not apply ordinary lime,
but give a dressing of bone-meal or superphos-
phate. By the above means, trees that are in
an unsatisfactory condition may be greatly im-
proved and so invigorated, that really good
fruit of Wellington will in time become assured.
W. G. C.

Strawberry Royal Sovereign— This new
Strawberry is a great favourite with Mr. Salter,
of Woodhatch Gardens, who now prefers it for
early forcing to all others. The fruits come with
him of great size, rich in colour, and of excellent
flavour. He mentioned that but a few weeks
back a local dealer expressed a desire to purchase
for the sum of £5 the produce of twenty-five
plants, picking the fruits as he needed. That, of
course, seems a big sum, but allowing three-
quarters of a pound of fruit to each plant, making
a total of IS J lbs., the sum is not excessive, espe-
cially for so tine a sample. Still the price quoted
serves to show something of the market value of
good forced Strawberries. — A.

Grape Madresfield Court.— It will have to
be a grand Grape which will supplant the Madres-
field Court, but the pity is that with some people
it is addicted to cracking. The observations of
" W. I." (p. 3(35) are opportune, as any hints bear-
ing upon this evil of cracking cannot but be of
benefit. That cracking can be prevented has
been proved again and again, but the grower in
any case has to be on the alert. By my employer
this Grape is thought much of, therefore care is
taken to present it in as good a condition as pos-
sible. As stated by " W. I.," fluctuations of
temperature are certainly inimical to its well-
doing and will surely lead to wholesale cracking.
My impression is that under-thinning is also
answerable in some cases for cracking. As proof
of this, last season I had a few bunches which
were under-thinned, and at the extreme point of
the berries a little juice oozed out and decay was
not long in setting in afterwards. Other bunches
which had been well thinned were not injured in
the least. The bunches of this (irape must un-
doubtedly be well thinned. I have no difficulty
in colouring up the larger berries, and I never
saw larger than those produced in this garden.
Over- cropping and starvation are the two evils to
guard against. Starvation can take place other
than from the want of nourishment at the roots,
and that is by keeping the vinery too cold and
draughty. The bints given by " W. I." to pre-
vent cracking 1 fully agree with. — A. Young.

Two good early Nectarines. — Out of all the

many excellent exhibits at the great show held
at the Inner Temple Gardens none were so
interesting to fruit growers as the remarkably
fine collection of Nectarine trees staged by Messrs.
T. Rivers and Son, Sawbridgeworth. The feature
of this exhibit was the very prolific habit of the
trees and the large size and deep rich colour of
the fruit. So far as I could see, only two varieties
were staged, viz., Early Rivers and Cardinal. The
former I have known for a year or two. Unlike
some of the early class of Peaches and Nectarines,
there is no bud-casting, with its attendant loss
of crop and disfigurement of the trees by long
stretches of bare wood. Cardinal is stated to be
fully equal to Early Rivers in every respect, and,
judging from the trees staged, it is worthy of a
place in every garden where early Nectarines are
required. Messrs. Rivers and Son's representa-
tive informed the writer that the trees shown
were not started until after Christmas, and ever
since the time of starting they had been grown in
a comparatively cool house that had onty two
rows of pipes in, i.e., a flow and return. I think
this speaks volumes for the value of the two
varieties, as, after many years' experience of early
forcing, 1 have never found any sorts that would
produce similar results in the time. When we ca

39G

THE GAKDEN

(June 8, 1895.

grow varieties that will bear fruit about the middle
of May with moderate forcing from the end of
December, it means a considerable reduction of
expenditure in fire, labour, &c, to the market
grower, to say nothing of the boon they are to
the gardener in a private establishment. Another
feature of both Early Rivers and Cardinal was
that the fruit in the most shaded parts of the
trees was equally as well coloured as that ex-
posed to the sun. Many fruits were on bottom
branches, heavily shaded by overhanging shoots,
but, in spite of the unfavourable situation, the
colour was perfect. The flavour of Cardinal is
very good indeed, somewhat resembling Pine-
apple with a dash of Stanwick intermixed, and is
deliciously refreshing. — W. G. C.

GRAPE BLACK HAMBURGH.

Undoubtedly, as "W. G. C." (p. 346) points
out, this is the most popular Grape, and it is,
indeed, quite indispensable, because from the
time when the winter-kept Grapes are gone
until autumn comes again there is no other
variety so largely used. I cannot boast such a
lengthened experience as " W. G. C," for he
says such grand examples as were exhibited
twenty years ago are seldom, if ever, equalled
now, which would naturally imply that he had
matured experience at the time of which he
writes. I am inclined to think, however, that
a good memory must be in evidence to be able
to say that the Grape in question has deterio-
rated to such an extent as that described.
During the last twenty years great changes
have been brought to bear on Grape growing,
and certainly I had thought that the growers of
the present day were equal to those of twenty
or more years ago, whether it appertained to
Black Hamburgh or any other variety. I know
there are records of some exceptionally large
bunches having been grown, but I fully expect
in some instances there were local influences
apart from the general cultivation to account
for such extraordinary bunches.

Although the modern lightly-built vinery may
not be so favourable for the Black Hamburgh
Vine as that with more wood and less glass,
some exceptionally fine Grapes are still grown
and exhibited, and I have sufficient confidence
in the present generation of Grape growers
to think that quite as good are produced
now both in point of bunch, berry, colour,
and bloom as those known to " W. G. C."
twenty years ago. In my own district
is a garden that many years since had a
fame for large bunches of Black Hamburgh.
Since that time the old structures have been
swept away, and more modern ones erected in
their place, and fir^t-class Grapes are grown
now as then.

As an exhibition Grape it may not be grown
so largely as it used to be, because there are
other varieties in the field. Madresfield Court
is a great favourite both among exhibitors and
judges at the summer shows, and if this is
staged in its best form, it is seldom that it is
beaten by Black Hamburgh. Gros Maroc, too,
comes into competition, having such fine berries
and of a jet-black colour. For quality of course
it cannot compare with the variety in question,
and it is not reliable in bunch, at least not
generally, as with many it has a fault in coming
small. At late summer exhibitions Alicante often
figures largely and well, and I think it quite
possible that the appearance of these varieties in
competition with Black Hamburgh has led
"W. G. C." to assume that it has lost some of
its old form and grandeur.

Colour is so often the determining point with
judges at summer shows, that Madrrsfield Court,
Gros Maroc, and Black Alicante get the most

favour ; the Hamburgh, owing to its not retaining
its colour long after it is fully ripe, being often
placed in an unfavourable position. It does
not matter what value the Black Hamburgh
may have possessed a month previous to any
exhibition, if it has to be staged among well-
coloured Alicante, Madresfield Court, or Gros
Maroc it must naturally be seen at a great dis-
advantage, when its colour is going off.
Presented in its highest perfection, Black Ham-
burgh is beaten only by accident by the other
sorts named.

On the old system of growing these Grapes
" W. G. C." says the borders were made of
sound fibrous loam and lime rubble, and very
little manure beyond a mulch from the farm-
yard every spring. How many an old Vine
border has been the grave of dead horses and
other animals, those who had them so buried
evidently believing that great virtue was obtain-
able from rich food other than natural manure.
My experience of Vine roots is that, unless some-
thing tempting is put on or given more often
than once in a season, they will not long remain
in the border, but ramble away in search of
fresh food in the garden. I know of many
cases where Vine roots are dug up every year
in the open ground away from the border, and
the more heavily the soil is manured the more
abundant are the roots. A hard gravel path is
no barrier to them, nor is a brick wall if they
are bent on a search for food. The grower who
produces the best Black Hamburgh Grapes, I
see, each year resorts to high feeding, something
of a stimulating nature being given each time
the Vines are watered, and he is undoubtedly an
enviable prize-winner.

Wiltshire Gardener.

they deceived the savant k at Edinburgh. I remember
my late friend Mr. Cramb, at Tortworth, doing
something of the same kind. I also remember
Mr. Spencer's (then of Bowood) challenge to Mr.
Cramb. who said that Bowood Muscat was Muscat
Escholata. I have many notes on the varieties of
Hamburgh, which are at least four in number.
— M. Temi'LE, Canon, JV..B.

Good late Apples. — The fine collection of
Apples put up by Messrs. G. Bunyard and Co. at
the Temple show should prove to the most scepti-
cal that by a judicious selection of varieties we
could produce Apples that would meet all de-
mands without calling in the aid of the foreigner.
The whole exhibit was very good, but amongst
the varieties that were particularly fine, mostly
high coloured, and remarkably plump, I noticed
Calville Rouge, a variety that has kept sound
with me for several years into August ; Wagoner,
a nice largo red Apple ; Calville Malingre, well
coloured, and of fair size. Newtown Wonder was
especially noticeable for its handsome colour and
shape, also looking as fresh as if just plucked
from the tree. King of Tompkins County evidently
succeeds better with Mr. Bunyard than with me
in Herefordshire, never having had it so good in
appearance as the dish staged. Alfriston had
kept very sound and well ; also the Melon Apple,
which is an excellent late dessert Apple worthy
of a wall in cold districts Tibbett's Pearmain
was in prime condition, and is a dessert variety
that I believe will be more grown as its merits for
late work become more fully known. Striped •
Beaufin and Annie Elizabeth were excellent, par-
ticularly the former. Ribston Pippin is seldom
so plump and fresh towards the end of May as in
Mr. Bunyard's collection. High Canons was also
fine, with many others. Another grand late
variety that I did not observe staged was Lane's
Prince Albert, but possibly this was an oversight
on my part. — W. G. C.

Fruit prospects in South Devon. — While
looking over a plantation of young Apple trees on
the Paradise stock the other day I made a few
notes as to the prospect for fruit given by the
different varieties. Bismarck, Duchess of Olden-
burg and Cellini are in profuse bloom. Lord
Surheld, Potts' Seedling, Ecklinville Seedling,
and Lord Derby are good, while Cox's Pomona,
Lane's Prince Albert and Warner's King are fair.
Beauty of Bath, Peasgood's Nonsuch, Dumelow's
Seedling, King of the Pippins, Red Astrachan
and Worcester Pearmain are very scanty. Lady
Sudeley, Blenheim Orange and Lord Grosvenor
have no bloom. The soil in this instance is heavy
and retentive and most of these young trees bore
well and had to be severely thinned last year. —
S. W. F., Torquay.

Bowood Muscat and other Grapes. — lam

greatly obliged to Mr. Crawford for his "cor-
rection," but really it was the remark of Mr.
Crawford which prompted me to send notes of
observation on this Grape. It must have been in
one of the other journals probably in which the
article was published identifying the Grape re-
ferred to with Muscat of Alexandria. I pass my
gardening papers (six in number) to the young
men and have not yet examined them, but I am
quite in touch with the remarks of Mr. Crawford,
and perfectly sure that purchasing the Bowood
as another variety is in many cases quite
chimerical. Circumstances, I know, change the
character of many Grapes. I remember in my
earlier gardening days the altercation which
took place with the late Mr. Denholm at Brox-
mouth, East Lothian, and a number of experts,
i who could not accept his monstrous Muscat of
I Alexandria as being the real old favourite. I did
i not ; but certainly did not believe it was the
old third-rate sort, White Tokay. Mr. Thomson
(then at Archerfield) cleared the matter up, and
i wrote that the Grapes were a true type of Muscat
' of Alexandria. They were proved by inarching
or grafting on Archerfield Vines, and no doubt
werea triumph for Mr. Denholm, who grew berries
to such a size (minus flavour) for exhibition, that

Kitchen Garden.

VEGETABLES AT SYON HOUSE.
Those who read the reports of the meetings of
the Royal Horticultural Society will not need to
be told that Mr. G. Wythes, gardener at Syon
House, Brentford, figures very frequently as a
successful exhibitor of vegetables. If any or all
of these various exhibits had been specially pre-
pared for exhibition there would have been less
room for congratulation. As it happens, nothing
of the sort is attempted, and all that has been
exhibited I can very well believe were simply
some of the best of what is grown on an extensive
scale to meet the demands of a large establish-
ment. During the prevalence of the severe frosts
last winter and for many weeks, or up to the
present time, fresh vegetables have been very
scarce indeed, but, judging from what I saw re-
cently at Syon, the scarcity has not been much
felt there. Nowhere else have I seen such grand
beds of spring Cabbage. In one breadth there
were '2000 plants to be seen, all of which had
stood through the winter, and would form a close
succession to another still earlier batch that
had been cut from since April 9. The varie-
ties that have done such good service are Ellam's
Dwarf Spring and Veitch's Matchless, the latter
not greatly differing from Ellam's. Mr. Wythes
makes two sowings, the first on or about July 10
and the second about ten days later. The earliest
raised plants, although a great success this sea-
son, are not depended upon so much as those
raised later, and which are planted the most ex-
tensively accordingly. All are planted in succes-
sion to Onions without any preparation of the
ground beyond cleaning, and this firmness of
root-run is the salvation of the plants, as it in-
variably promotes a sturdy growth, neat hearts,
and but few outside leaves also resulting. The
plants are disposed 12 inches asunder in rows 18
inches apart — a very different arrangement to
that favoured by the old school of gardeners.

June 8, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

397

Spinach, again, passed through the winter
comparatively uninjured, and although large
quantities were gathered almost daily from the
time milder weather set in, many sacks of it were
growing to waste when I was at Syon. Mr.
Wythes has been a consistent i-dvocate of the
merits of the variety Victoria, and there is no
mistaking its superiority over the older and much
smaller-leaved forms. The first sowing of winter
Spinach is usually made on or about August 10,
a second sowing not being made till five or six
weeks later. Well-prepared ground is devoted
to these important crops. Late autumn and
successional gatherings are made from the earliest
breadths whenever the weather is sufficiently
open, but the later sowings are not available till
the spring. More seed was sown during the first
week in March and the plants duly thinned out.
Such a grand lot of great succulent leaves as
were to be seen during the third week in May
would have convinced anyone of the immense
superiority of the Victoiia over the older forms
of Spinach.

Very few gardeners can claim to have cut many
Broccoli this year, but Mr. Wythes had a good
supply at Syon, several hundred plants having
been saved. It must not be thought that Syon
Gardens enjoy any great immunity from frosts ;
sheltered they are to a certain extent, but seeing
that they are only a short distance from the
Thames and are nearly surrounded by other
water, they would appear to be more than or-
dinarily liable to suffer from frosts. The Broccoli
saved were principally Veitch's Model and Cat fell's
Eclipse, though both well tried hardy varieties
would probably have succumbed to the frosts had
they not been heeled over or laid. During the
second week in December trenches were opened
on the north side of the plants, and these were
then heeled over, the soil from the next trench
being banked well up to the leaves, so as to
effectually protect the most vital part of the
plants, viz., the stems. The work was done in no
half-hearted manner, and this, coupled with the
late date of carrying it out, made it next to im-
possible for the heads to draw up again. Large
hearts were not had, nor are they desirable at any
time. Even if they were it would yet be conceded
that small hearts are better than none at all.
Cauliflowers would follow closely upon Broccoli.
The condition of the Cauliflower plants fairly sur-
prised me. A south border was filled with about
1300 plants, many of them forward enough to be
cut from before the end of May. The varieties
preferred are Dwarf Erfurt for the earliest sup-
plies and Walcheren, the latter proving superior
to Early London. Seed was sown on or about
August 15, and the plants resulting wintered in
handlights and rough frames. No coddling or un-
due protection is afforded, and, as a consequence,
the plants are this season sufficiently hardy to
move into the open border during the second week
in March. They are found to move best out of
3-inch pots. In addition to well manuring the
ground for this crop, guano is also freely washed
down to the roots after active root and top growth
has well commenced.

Kidney Beans are in great demand at Syon
nearly or quite all the J ear round, and in order
to relieve the forcing houses and pits of the strain
upon them, as well as to save labour, open-air
culture, or what may be termed such, is started
upon as early as may be attempted with a reason-
able prospect of success. A selection of the old
Mohawk is mostly replied upon, another old
favourite with me, Syon House, also being grown.
The seed is sown thinly in 3-inch pots during the
first week in April, and placed in cold frames
rather than heated structures to germinate, while
the plants are further kept as hardy as possible.
When strong enough and before becoming much
root-bound they are planted out on what were
formerly outside Vine borders, and roughly pro-
tected with frame-lights and hand-lights. By the
end of May the first gatherings would have been
made. Extra pains are also taken in forwarding
Broad Beans. In this instance Veitch's Early
Longpod is sown in boxes late in February and

placed in cold frames, and the plants resulting
kept hardy. They were duly planted out, quite
in the open, thinly in rows 2 feet apart, and when
I saw them on May 20 pods were setting freely,
gathering [taking place presumably nine days
later. Early Peas were in an equally promising
condition. The varieties favoured are Chelsea
Gem for the earliest, with Stratagem and Duke
of Albany to afford a good succession. All were
sown at the same time, or about the first week in
February, in 5-inch pots and placed in cold frames.
They were planted out on warm borders during
the third week in March, or later than usual,
and the crops were, as a matter of course, also
later, as there would not be many pods fit to pick
before the end of May. Duke of Albany when
about 2 feet high is frequently topped, this
causing it to branch freely, and, as treated by
Mr. Wythes, is unrecognisable, but the plan is
evidently a good one, as it promotes early crop-
ping and does away with the necessity for using
tall stakes.

Lettuces were abundant and good. The varie-
ties Golden tjueen and Early Paris Market sown
in boxes and the plants duly put out on warm
beds and borders heart in surprisingly quickly,
Perfect Gem, another popular Cabbage Lettuce,
giving a capital succession. Turnip-rooted Beet
is also raised in boxes, and the plants dibbled out
at the foot of a south wall and other sheltered
positions. The seed was sown during the first
week in March, and three months from that date
the roots would be quite large enough for use.
As it happens, Mr. Wythes has abundance of old
roots of the Cheltenham Green-top Beet, and
these are comparatively fresh, richly coloured,
tender, and sweet — second to none, in fact. The
white and purple-topped Early Milan Turnips
sown on a warm border the last week in February
or early in March were large enough to pull when
1 saw them, and the same varieties grown in
frames had been in use for six weeks previously.
Potatoes Early May and Veitch's Ashleaf were
very forward among fruit trees in borders, and
the first named, together with Sharpe's Victor,
are the favourites tor frame culture. Asparagus
is largely forced in frames, and a grand supply,
commencing late in February and continuing till
unprotected beds are productive, was had, as
usual, from protected and gently forced beds. These
latter are permanent, and have been in existence
thirty years. They have pigeon-holed sides : the
pits between are filled with leaves, and shutters
are used for protection. The plants are kept in a
very vigorous state by means of fish manure and
abundance of water and liquid manure. Seakale
is grown next to these beds, and the half rotten
leaves from the pits are utilised for blanching the
tops of the unforced portions.

Globe Artichokes are far from being hardy at
Syon, but Mr. Wythes knowing this is never
caught napping. It is his practice to winter a
number of rooted offsets in frames and plant
out early in the spring. It is worthy of note that
Turnips Yellow Malta, Petrowski or Finland,
and Chirk Castle Blackstone stood well where
grown, and were in good condition for table use
after the frosts left the ground. Of winter green
vegetables the hardiest were Brussels Sprouts,
dwarf Scotch Borecole, Asparagus, and Cottagers'
Kale, and late raised plants of Read's Hearting
Borecole. Mr. Wythes has succeeded in effect-
ing a cross between Asparagus Kale and the old
Ragged Jack, and a good breadth of this distinct
novelty will be planted this season. Judging
from the extraordinary number of plants in seed
beds or already planted out, there is little likeli-
hood of a scarcity of vegetables being experienced
at Syon next winter, and altogether it is doubtful
if a better managed garden can be found any-
where W. IliCULDKN.

Late Potatoes. — In the majority of cases
these will now be through the ground, and, taking
advantage of the bright weather, the plots should
be hoed through and all weeds killed in their
infancy. Those only who are short of labour
know the value of taking such work in hand in

the nick of time. If weeds are allowed any grace
and the weather should set in rainy, it is often
with difficulty that Chickweed and other rapid
spreading weeds are eradicated ; consequently
the Potatoes do not get a fair start. The admis-
sion also of sun and air into the surface works won-
ders amongst Potato crops. Where the soil is
shallow and poor, and manure was not over plenti-
fully supplied when the ground was dug, the pre-
sent time is opportune for giving a liberal broad-
cast sowing ol some good artificial manure. This
will wash in with the first rain and prove of great
value. Crops grown in fields for winter and
spring supply must be similarly treated if the
best results are expected. The horse hoe must be
put between the rows, and that portion of the
ground nearest the Potato haulm which this im-
plement cannot touch cleaned alterwards by the
aid of hand hoes. It must be borne in mind that
in field culture clearing the ground from weeds
as soon as the growth peeps through and subse-
quent frequent surface stirrings are of as much
value as manure. — N.

Open-air Tomatoes.— By this term I do not
mean plants having the advantage of a wall, but
those on open quarters. The middle of June will
be the best date for the final planting of this
batch, which should consist of the more hardy
varieties recommended some time back. If the
plants are not thoroughly hardened, it will be
wise to keep them in the shelter of the frame-
yard for another week, feeding them a little if
the pots are full of roots. Do not add a lot of
rich farmyard manure to the ground they are to
occupy, as, independent of encouraging disease,
plants so treated often run off into strong, long-
jointed growth and fail to set any fruit until late
m the season. A sheltered piece of ground from
which early Peas have been cleared will answer
well, nor is it advisable to again dig it, a firm
root-run being conducive to a moderately slow
growth and final fruitfulness. After planting,
leave a shallow basin round each stem, so that
water will find its way through the ball, and
support each plant by a stout stake. As growth
advances, remove all side laterals, pinching
the main shoot out when the summit of the
supports has been reached. Where the soil
is .-hallow and very warm, a mulch later on will
aid in retaining root moisture, but this should not
be laid on very thickly. — C. N.

Protecting early vegetables. — I have never
proved the advantage of temporary shelter
amongst transplanted batches of spring-raised
Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Broad Beans and Cos
Lettuces more thoroughly than this season. I
always sow some of the foregoing in the early
Carrot frame, and this year they grew so fast,
that they were ready for planting out, so far as
size was concerned, before the Carrots could be
exposed by removing the light in the daytime.
They were put out in Marcn on open quarters
and thickly screened by Yew boughs, and although
cold cutting winds prevailed for weeks together
at that date in this district, the plants have done
well, and will well repay the extra trouble be-
stowed on them. Many ignore this coddling, as
they call it, but when their plants are ruined Irom
exposure they find to their sorrow that the trouble
of raising and establishing secondary batches, and
of pushing them on to atone as much as possible
for lost time, far outdistances that which would
have been necessary in the first instance. Our
garden lies rather high, and not being over well
sheltered, catches much of the cold spring wind ;
hence the great necessity for screening early
vegetable crops.— C. H.

French Bean?. — Sometimes in large gardens
no more dwarf Beans are sown after the second
lot of Scarlet Runners is in the ground. This is
a mistake, as, unless many rows of the runner
type are grown, there is liable to be a break in
the Bean supply owing to very close pickings. If
a small batch of the French type is sown every
three weeks, duly thinned and occasionally
watered, they will, if old pods are not allowed to
accumulate, yield over a long period. Any out-

h98

THE GAKDEK"

Junk 8, 1895.

of-the-way corner or nook may be utilised by the
dwarfs, and the best plan is to sow each time two
or even three sort?, as no two varieties come into
yield exactly together. Canadian Wonder, Negro
Longpod, and Webb's Victoria, the last a most
valuable Bean on account of its freeness in bear-
ing, dark colour, and good flavour, are all suitable
for this time of year.— J. C.

Successional Runner Beans. — About the
end of the second week in June is a capital time
to sow Veitch's Mammoth Scarlet Runner, a fine
variety that stands drought well. Except on deep
rich soils, the best plan with this sowing is to take
out trenches of fair depth, and after laying in the
bottom a good thickness of decayed manure, to
return the soil to within 2 inches or 3 inches of the
top. This will support growth and lessen the
necessity of so much watering should hot, dry
weather ensue. As it is not everyone that has an
unlimited supply of very tall stakes, this sowing
may be supported with ordinary Pea rods and
the tops pinched. This will cause a more branch-
ing habit of growth and a plentiful supply of
pods. Give plenty of room between the rows,
and sow more thinly than for the earlier crop,
as most of the seed will germinate and the ground
will not then have to be loosened by pulling out
the overplus seedlings.

Peas and hawfinches. — Just at this season
many gardeners are troubled by hawfinches
attacking their early and second early Peas.
Those who do not know the bird often blame
the sparrow for all the mischief, but, bad as the
latter bird is, the destruction he works amongst
rows of Peas is comparatively nothing to that of
the hawfinch. This bird is in size between a
sparrow and a thrush, of handsome mixed
plumage and possessed of a powerful bill. A
brace of birds will sometimes in the course of
a couple of days entirely ruin a good row of
Peas. They make their principal raids in early
morning, and again just before dusk, their
presence being detected by their shrill note. I
have caught as many as ten in one season in
small iron traps baited with a Pea and sunk in
the ground, the bridge of the trap being covered
with fine soil. I have frequently had to net my
earliest Peas against the hawfinch, and am afraid
I shall have to do so this season. It is well where
a gun can be used, as the birds do not like the
sound of firearms. — J. Crawfobd.

Early Cabbages.— With the finish up of
white Broccoli comes a period of scarcity in hardy
vegetables that has been largely accentuated by
the hard winter. Just now the markets and shops
are very bare of any cheap forms of greens ; indeed,
the barrenness seems to be almost unusually so.
Spinach is fairly plentiful, but it never can be
a common vegetable, as not only does its leafage
under cooking shrink so much, but its taste is far
from being acceptable to the bulk of vegetable
consumers. Asparagus is plentiful for such a
vegetable, but the price (Is. 6d. to Is. 9d. per
bundle) renders its acquisition by the people
generally impossible. We have more need than
ever now of some undoubtedly hardy early-
hearting Cabbages. These can generally be found
in private gardens where good stocks of Ellam's
Early, Early Gem, Early York, &c, are grown,
but market growers who have to cater for the
million seem still to adhere to the larger hearting
and later sorts ; hence when, as now, a period of
barrenness comes there is in the fields nothing
better to cut than mere half-grown Cabbages.
Of what use is it to cry about foreign importa-
tions when we have now, at the end of May,
nothing better to offer the public than such poor
material as this V — A. D.

Notes on Asparagus. — I was glad to see Mr.
Kemp's notes on Asparagus, and especially his
objections to narrow raised beds. I never yet
met with good Asparagus produced over a series
of years from narrow raised beds. It may succeed
for the first few years, but afterwards the produce
is very scanty. I cannot see how it can be other-
wise, the rooting and feeding space being so
cramped. The filling up of the alleys with rich

feeding material is a course of treatment whieh I
have had occasion to recommend several times in
the pages of The Garden. The bed here is not
mulched in the autumn, but otherwise it is
treated similarly to Mr. Kemp's. Wood ashes is
a capital material for Asparagus. I dress the beds
over with this and well-rotted manure in the
spring before growth commences, and the result
is that the whole surface is a mass of roots. The
shoots rise up strong, and the quantity gathered
from a given area would surprise many people.
Soot, salt and guano I use for the occasional
spring and early summer dressings. As a rule.
Asparagus roots are too deep, and the soil not
open or rich enough for their well-being. Very
late cutting is also injurious. — A. Young, Abber-
ley Hall.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1017.

LUPINS.

(wnn a coloured plate of tree lupin.*)

Broav.ly speaking, the genus above named
may be divided into three groups, viz., annuals,

The Tree Lupin (Lupinus arboreus).

perennials, and those of a sub-shrubby or
arborescent character, each alike valuable.
The number of species met with under cultiva-
tion in gardens is comparatively few, those
most frequently seen being either annuals or per-
ennials. Taking them all in all, not only are
they a beautiful and interesting, not to say use-
ful, group of plants, but they are all of them of
very easy cultivation in any good ordinary
garden soil. Especially beautiful and varied
are the numerous varieties of annuals which
may briefly be described as among the most
ornamental of summer-flowering plants. These
may be sown in the open ground in March

* Drawn for The Garden at Gravetye Manor by
A. F. Hayward, June 1-t, 1891. Lithographed and
printed by GuiLUume Severeyns.

or April, or in successional batches in both
months, where they are intended to flower, or
they may be sown thinly in pots and trans-
planted.

The perennial kinds are also among the easiest
plants to grow, and given a good depth of soil
into which they may root freely, they quickly
form handsome bushes. These when in flower
are most effective. The perennial kinds are
readily increased by division and also by seeds.
When dividing the plants it will be found a good
plan to pierce the prong of a small hand fork
into the woody rootstock and then wrench the
plants asunder. This is a safer method than
using a knife for many things, the latter often
causing the loss of many valuable roots. In
the case of a good strain of L. polyphyllus
albus for example, division is the only certain
way of increasing it. Notwithstanding good
white strains are obtainable from seed, and
though the white polyphyllus may easily be dis-
tinguished by the foliage alone, there is a good
deal of variation in point of purity in the
flowers. It is a good plan with these late spring
flowering plants to propagate them by division
early the previous autumn. By so doing they
gather strength before flowering time comes
round. There are few herbaceous
perennials capable of producing a
finer effect in the garden than well-
grown and equally well-flowered ex-
amples of this whi e Lupin. An
old and common plant it may be, but
one of the finest notwithstanding.

The shrubby kinds are of equally
easy culture and may be increased
freely by seeds or by cuttings slipped
off with a heel attached in summer-
time and inserted in sandy soil in a
cold frame. In this way L. arboreus
roots freely, or self-sown seedlings
may be obtained in the vicinity of
the old plants.

L. arboreus (the Tree Lupin), re-
presented in the accompanying plate,
■a a native of North America, from
whence it came to our gardens just a
little more than a century ago. The
pale yellow and fragrant blossoms of
the type are abundantly produced,
and when the plant attains to a good
si^e it is most effective either in the
shrubbery or as an isolated specimen.
When fully grown it is several feet
high and often 0 feet through, while
its silvery and somewhat downy leaves
render it quite distinct. It is also an
excellent plant against a wall having
a western aspect.

The best known of the perennial
kinds are

L. polyphyllus, a bold, freogrow-
ing perennial attaining 4 feet to 5 feet
high and having handsome spikes,
about 2 feet or more in length, of
blue, lilac, purple, or white flowers. Raised from
seeds this is a somewhat variable plant in point
of colour, while L. grandifolius is a distinct large-
leaved form of this plant, also known as L. macro-
phyllus.

L. nootkaensis is a plant of dwarfer and more
compact habit, seldom more than 2 feet high.
The predominant colour is blue, mingled with
more or less intense purple, with veins of a deeper
hue. A neat and showy border plant.

The above are those most frequently met with
in cultivation, while such kinds as laxiflorus,
leucophyllus and sub-carnosus deserve to be
more frequently seen than now. Among the
more tender kinds L. mutabilis is deserving of
notice as worthy of cultivation. — E. J.

The variety figured is a very fine bright

coloured one, and the plant most effective when

4

TREE LUP.

JuneS, H95.]

THE GARDEN

399

covered with flowers. There could be no hand-
somer flowering shrub than this for favoured
gardens, and good forms being scarce there is
all the more reason to cherish and take care of
them. We have raised batches of Tree Lupins
from seed and not found one worthy of retention
when compared with this good yellow one, the
prevalent tones of colour being light slaty-
purple or pale yellow in dull and ineffective
shades. Any that are clear and good in colour
should be increased by cuttings, which when well
rooted and planted out in a sunny spot in light
loamy soil soon grow into large bushes, and
flower abundantly for several weeks during the
early summer months. — A. H.

The Week's Work.

hardy; fruits.

Vises oh walls. — So far, with the exception of a
sudden fall in the temperature for a few days, we
have had brilliant sunshine and warm nights,
similar to the spring and early summer of 1893,
one of the best seasons on record for open-air
Grape culture. With Vines much healthier than
usual, the bunches are stronger. Shoots for ex-
tension should be laid in, and those with fruit
should be stopped at the second joint beyond the
bunch. All laterals should be freely cut out, and
in places deficient of wood a strong shoot should
be reserved. Only one shoot must be left to each
spur, and any lateral growth left to develop should
be stopped at the sixth joint. It is well to allow
the new growths intended for extension to become
a little firm before nailing them to the wall, as in
a tender state the shoots soon break. It is best
to give a loose tie for a time, and nail back later
on when the wood is matured, as it should be
borne in mind the young wood of this season's
growth will next year produce much finer fruit
than the cut-back or spur growth. If a fair quan-
tity of new wood can be laid in each season, there
will be finer crops and early ripening is facilitated.
By this system much of the old wood which pro-
duces a weak growth can be taken out when
pruning. In selecting new wcod get it as near
the base of the tree as possiblo and allow plenty
of room. Thinning of the bunches in the open is
not sufficiently practised, but well repays the
cultivator, the berries left being much finer and
ripening sooner. Now is a good time to feed, as,
the growth being strong, liquid manure may be
given freely. Failing this, guano or any other
quick-acting fertiliser should be given and well
washed down to the roots. When possible a good
mulch will do much good. The best outside
Grapes I ever saw were from Vines which had
the contents of a small tank emptied on the soil
every ten days during the growing season.

Insects on Vines. — The Vine is less subject to
insects in the open air than under glass, and is
more readily managed if a little extra attention is
paid to culture. Mildew being the worst enemy
should be got rid of as soon as detected. Green
and black-fly also attack the young shoots if the
roots are dry or require food. Mildew is a ter-
rible scourge, and must be removed, or loss of
crop follows. One of the best remedies is sulphur
dusted over the affected places, and renewed as
required, as damp and rain soon destroy its
power in the open. I have also found syringing
with a mildew specific of great advantage, as this
can be made to cover the back portions of the
plant, and if used frequently will clear the enemy.
In using the mixture, it is well to syringe after-
wards to clear the berries of the specific, as if
allowed to rest on the bunch it marks the fruit.

Peaches and Nectarines. — Trees of these on
walls will now require much attention to keep
the foliage in a healthy state, as owing to the
cold weather a short time back black and green-
fly made their appearance, the leaves curling
badly. Unlees the pest is got rid of, it will cause

loss of crop and leaves also. I have found the
best remedy for black-fly is Bentley's quassia
extract. It is readily dissolved in cold rain
water, and is far superior to the old method of
soaking quassia chips, the extract being ready for
use in a few moments. Thinning the fruit should
now receive attention. It will be best to remove
a large portion of the small fruits, giving those
which have got the start every opportunity to
swell. There need be no fear of any fruits on
healthy trees not stoning, and if the foliage is
kept clean and the roots well fed, syringing the
foliage overhead in the evening, a healthy growth
will follow. Mildew on a few sorts may now
make its appearance, and the remedies advised
for Vines apply in this case. Thinning and stop-
ping of the shoots will also be necessary. By
early stopping and removing useless wood cleans-
ing will be facilitated. The leaders required for
extension and the well-placed shoots on the upper
sides of the trees should get a support, but merely
to keep in position. Any nails or ties must be
temporary. Shoots not required for extension
and on which fruits are swelling should be
stopped at a few joints from the base. In the
case of young trees there is no necessity to use
the knife too freely, as if the trees are allowed to
cover a good space they invariably do better, are
much cleaner, and time is saved. Young trees
may be given more latitude than older ones, it
being an easy matter to prevent grossness by
fruiting freely. The ties of young trees should
be frequently examined, as they soon cut into the
tender bark when growing.

Cherries are cropping heavily and will need
much support in the way of liquid manure and
mulching when the weather is dry, these trees in
light land soon suffering. I am sorry to say that
during the last few days aphis has made its
appearance and in quantity, the points of the
leading shoots being badly attacked. There are
few better remedies than quassia, and to be
effectual no time must be lost, as the fruits mature
so quickly. Many of the insects may be removed by
pinching off lateral or any growths not wanted for
extension, dipping the points of the main shoots in
a solution as advised and syringing over after-
wards. Thinning in many cases would be
advantageous to the crop even in the case of
Morellos. The wood for next season must also
receive attention, and in the case of dessert varieties
strong growth laid in thinly will soon make fruit-
ing wood. Crowded spurs or breastwood should
be thinned out early to allow light and sun to
reach the fruit ; small weakly growths should be
pinched to the second or third joint and will then
make short spurs. In the case of the Morello suffi-
cient young wood must be laid in each season, the
crop being borne on the young wood of the previous
season. Any foreright shoots may be cut back
to three or four eyes ; the lower buds will then
make short spurs or fruiting wood, and the longer
clean shoots should be laid in full length.

Apples and Pears.— The growths of the former
on walls will need thinning if grown for specially
fine fruits, the breast-wood being kept cut away
and the main shoots laid in position. Pears need
more attention than Apples. In many places
thinning of the fruit will be necessary. Pinching
and training will likewise need attention. I do not
advise too early pinching, as it induces a forest of
spray, but when done in season it promotes a
fruitful growth. Of course it is necessary to
remove useless breast-wood, as such never
produces fruit buds. Rainfall in this locality
having been very slight, watering will soon be a
necessity in the case of young or newly-planted
tree3, and a good mulch will do much to keep the
trees in an active, healthy state. Few materials
are more suitable than stable manure, which can
be used in a fresh state. Should the short mate-
rial be required, the long litter will be of great
benefit, retaining moisture and preventing the
water running away. Cow manure in a partially
decayed state, mixed with strawy litter, is a
splendid mulch and provides food at the same
time. In thinning the fruit take into consideration
the variety, if a large or small kind. In the case

of large fruits of the Pitmaston type thin to one
fruit on each spur. Newly-planted trees on walls
or in the open should not be allowed to carry a
crop ; the blooms and newly-set fruits should be
removed. With young trees early mulching is
important.

Strawberries. — Owing to the drought I have
been compelled to water the early Strawberries,
as the crop, being heavy, is in need of support.
There is no better time than the present to feed
Strawberries, and manure either in a liquid state
or in the way of a rich fertiliser as guano, well
washed down to the roots afterwards with clear
water, may be given freely, and will help to swell
the fruits. In watering with liquid manure care
should be taken to place it close to the roots,
and it is much better to give a thorough soaking
once a week, as merely damping the surface does
little good. Late-planted Strawberries for next
season's fruiting should have all flower-trusses
removed as they show, also runners, and if pos-
sible be mulched with some spent manure.

G. Wytiies.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Earthim: up Potatoes. — Batches of second early
Potatoes in gardens which have not yet been
earthed up should be attended to at once, and as
these will have been allowed more room between
the rows than the earlier short Ashleaf varieties,
there will be less danger of mutilating the young
rootlets with the hoe. Use moderation in earth-
ing, as a large mound of soil only impedes the
action of warmth and air and causes the tops to
ripen prematurely, to say nothing of the extra
labour incurred. If it is now seen that any other
varieties have by accident found their way into
the rows, they should be drawn out — that is to
say, if any of the smaller tubers are to be saved
for seed. Any rows not so far advanced may be
left for another ten days before being earthed up,
as it is an evil to partly bury them when in-
sufficiently grown.

Summer Tcrnips. — The sowings of Early Milan
advised in previous calendars may now be followed
by sowing Snowball, Veitch's Red Globe, and for
those who prefer a yellow-fleshed Turnip, Orange
Jelly will be found most satisfactory. Where
room is plentiful I would recommend that all the
above sorts be included in this sowing, as then
more of a succession will be secured ; and as one
is never sure about Turnips running to seed in a
young state, greater security is given by such a
course. Avoid south or even any extra sunny
borders now, and for the rest of the season choose
rather an east or north border, the same being
extra well prepared by the incorporation of some
rich manure, the ground being deeply tilled and
firmly trodden unless heavy naturally. As before
stated, manure from fowl houses is excellent for
Turnips, provided always it has been well dried
and powdered previously. It is bad practice to
use it in a wet, raw state, especially near the sur-
face. If in addition to that dug in a coating of
it in powdered form mixed with half Ihs quantity
of soot is applied to the surface as soon as the
crop is thinned, it will aid in warding off the
dreaded fly, which is often most troublesome to
Turnips sown now. Take care to thin early, as
when left crowded they get drawn, and the base
of the bulb becoming exposed, they never do so
well. From 1 foot to 15 inches apart is not too
much for summer crops of the more robust grow-
ing varieties. Dusting overhead immediately
thinning has been completed with wood ashes
will often prevent the fly from attacking the ten-
der seedlings, and if this can be done they soon
grow out of harm's way.

Brussels Sprouts — main crop. — The few rows
of extra early plants for a supply in September
and October planted some time ago are now grow-
ing away fast, the screens having been taken
away, as they are now able to take care of them-
selves. The main batch for November and De-
cember may now be got out as soon as possible.
Draw out fairly deep drills on medium and light

400

THE GARDEN

[June 8, 1895.

soils, reducing their depth, or even planting on
the level where the situation is low or the soil
very retentive, plant carefully with a trowel in
preference to a dibber, and water home. If the
weather continue dry, the watering may be re-
peated in ten days' time. Where an extra sowing
for later work has not been made, the smaller
plants from the main-crop beds may be pricked
out on to a bed of rich soil in any convenient spot,
and planted three weeks hence for supplying use-
ful sprouts during the early spring months.

Utilising Celery ridges. — In most gardens
these will all now be prepared. It is a great gain
to get the trenches thrown out in good time, as the
ridges can be utilised for such quick-growing
crops as Lettuce, Spinach, and the dwarf early
hearting kinds of Cabbage where room is scarce.
I have on Celery ridges often grown Walcheren
Cauliflower for cutting in August. Whatever is
planted on the ridges must be well looked after as
regards water. I sometimes sow Lettuces on the
ridges, and thin the seedlings out to a growing
distance, thus saving the labour of transplanting.
Especially is this an advantage in hot weather
when transplanted crops need so much artificial
watering. Thinning out must, however, in such
cases be done at a very early stage.

Successional Cauliflowers. — When once the
autumn-planted hand-light batches of this vege-
table commence to turn in they generally do so
with a glut, although some varieties are certainly
better for coming on gradually than others. I
find Walcheren unsurpassed for turning in piece-
meal, even better than the small forcing kinds
which are now so largely grown. The spring
batches planted out from frames or raised in heat
in January and the early part of February will
also be close on the heels of the above named, so
that where a constant succession of Cauliflowers
is required frequent sowings will be imperative.
Pearl and Walcheren, recommended to be sown in
March along with the first batch of winter stuff,
will now be quite ready for transplanting. If on
the dry side, soak the drills the night previous to
planting. Sow also now the same two sorts in a
cool place for following those just planted. If
the two sorts are sown together, one is more cer-
tain of success, and if both do well a succession is
ensured.

Autumn Giant Cauliflower. — I recommended
a little seed of this popular Cauliflower to be sown
in March, and where this was done the plants will
be fit for putting out on the final quarters. Any
of the smaller seedlings may be pricked out on to
a bed well enriched with manure, planting these
out in three weeks' time. If a little seed was also
sown in April, the plants will be useful for putting
out in June for carrying on the supply right on to
the frosty weather, the plants being laid where
frost will not reach them. Autumn Giant being a
robust grower, thorough preparation of the ground
is necessary. Plenty of room must be given, and
if shallow trenches can be taken out, so much the
better, as then feeding to any extent can be more
easily performed. J. Crawford.

The Temple Chrysanthemums.— I have
only just seen The Garden for May 18, in which
a notice appears, stating that in future the annual
exhibitions of Chrysanthemums in the Temple
Gardens will be discontinued. These exhibitions
have now been held for so many years, and in the
early days did so much to popularise the flower,
that I am sure I only echo the feelings of many a
lover of this famous autumn favourite in express-
ing regret that such a determination should have
been come to. Some years have elapsed since the
Chrysanthemum show in the Middle Temple
Gardens was abolished, and now it appears that
the Inner Temple authorities intend to do like-
wise. It would be interesting to know exactly
how many years Chrysanthemums have been
grown and exhibited in the Temple ; it must be
at least forty, if not more. Mr. Samuel Broome
published the first edition of his "Culture of the
Chrysanthemum as practised in the Temple
Gardens " in 1857, and had then been in the posi-

tion of gardener there for twenty-five years. But
he does not tell us how long out of that time he
had been growing and showing the Chrysanthemum
to the public. In a list of varieties at the end of
that work, comprising large-flowered, large Ane-
mones, Pompons and Pompon Anemones, which
number about 340 varieties and which were then
in cultivation by Mr. Broome, a few are still, or
were recently grown by cultivators of the present
day. In particular may be mentioned Aimee
Ferriere, Alfred Salter, Annie Salter, Beauty,
Chevalier Domage, Christine, Cloth of Gold, Golden
Queen of England, Leon Leguay, Nonpareil,
Phidias, Queen of England, Temple of Solomon,
Fleur de Marie, Ceorges Sand, Gliick, King of
Anemones, &c. — Chrysanth.

Stove and Greenhouse.

CYCLAMEN CULTURE.

This popular and most useful winter-flowering
plant is very often indifferently grown. The
most fertile causes of failure are over-potting,
insufficient drainage, a non-porous soil, cold
draughts, exposure of the foliage to the sun
or allowing it to become infested with tlirips.
Although I cannot claim to have had an un-
chequered success in growing Cyclamens, yet as
my plants generally do well, a few notes as to
the mode of treatment may prove useful. I
may here say that I do not rely upon old bulbs,
as I have never had much success with these.
I raise a fresh batch of seedlings every
autumn, casting the same away after flowering
is over. I sow the seed in August in pans,
using a compost of light fibrous loam, passed
through not too fine a sieve, to which is added
one-fourth of leaf-mould quite free from pieces
of wood. This freedom is very essential, as the
sticks often engender fungus, which is ruinous
to the roots of the Cyclamen. Sufficient silver
sand to keep the compost open is likewise added.
This is pressed firmly into the pans, which are
well drained, and the seed after being sown on a
level surface is nicely covered with the compost,
this again being made firm. The pans are then
p'aced either in the Cucumber house or Pine
stove on a warm moist bottom, not necessarily
near the glass, and shaded until the seedlings
appear. Great care is needad in moistening
the soil, also much patience, as germination is
sometimes very slow. By the time the plants
are up the weather has become much cooler
and the pan is elevated close to the roof glass
and no shading used. Through November,
December and January from 55° to 60° is the
average heat during the night which suits the
plants and induces a free and healthy growth.
About the middle of February potting is per-
formed, using the same compost as before, only
in a much rougher state, placing each bulb
in a 3-inch pot and allowing it to remain partly
above the soil. Some advocate burying it, but
the plan is ruinous, as the least excess of water
is apt to rot the young leaves issuing from the
crown.

Potting completed, the plants are elevated as
before on slates surfaced with Moss, this mate-
rial holding the moisture about the pots.
Shading is necessary for ten days, and gentle
syringiugs each morning and afternoon. In
watering, the spout of the can should be placed
close to the rims of the pots, as if held aloof
and the water dashed into the soil, the plants
soon become sickly. Of the two evils, over-
dryness and over-wetness, the former is the
safer at this stage. The plants being subject
to thrips, a slight fumigation generally is advis-
able as a preventive, as this pest soon plays

sad havoc with Cyclamens. Towards the end of
March, the Pine stove or Cucumber house
becoming too hot for their welfare, they are
removed into a span-roofed Peach house and
arranged on a brick slab, partially shaded by
the foliage of the Peach trees, the night tem-
perature being about 65°, rising considerably
from sun heat, especially when closed early in
the afternoon. By the beginning of May the
small pots are filled with roots and the plants
are removed into their flowering pots, these
being 4A inches in diameter. Firm, but not
hard potting is necessary. The plants, standing
on a brick kerb of the Peach border, are a good
distance from the ventilators, and thus escape
draught, which soon distresses the foliage and
checks the plants. By the middle of August,
the Peach house having to be thrown open day
and night — the fruit being ripe — the Cyclamens
are removed to a frame and stood on a hard ash
bottom, the glass being slightly shaded with
whitening until September, when it is removed
and the plants entirely exposed to the sun. I
do not care for the plan of keeping the lights
tilted up all night, but close them about 4
p.m., slightly syringing the foliage. At the
commencement of October the plants are re-
moved to a light greenhouse, placed near the
glass, and when the blooms are throwing up, a
little stimulant is given, weak farmyard liquid
being the best. Until this date I am opposed
to giving manure water, as the roots of Cycla-
mens are very delicate and easily injured.

J. Crawford.

Iris hispanica in pots. — It is a wonder this
pretty Iris is not more generally cultivated in
pots, as the flowers are valuable just now for cut-
ting. I usually order the bulbs in August, and as
soon as they come to hand I place five in a 4|-inch
pot in a mixture of loam, leaf-soil and sand, and
stand in a Carnation house or cool greenhouse. If
the soil is in a moist state when potting do not
give any water until signs of growth appear. If
carefully watered through the winter the bulbs will
make strong growth and throw up a flower-spike
towards the end of April. If wanted in bloom
earlier they will not resent a gentle forcing. — F. C.

Boronia serrulate. — Two or three years ago
this Boronia was very difficult to obtain, but a
group of healthy little specimens profusely laden
with bloom at the recent Temple show showed
that the exhibitors (Messrs. Balchin, of Hassocks)
are as successful in the culture of this as in the
case of the blue Leschenaultia. Boronia serrulata
is of rather low growth, the slender and somewhat
spreading shoots being clothed with curious trape-
ziform leaves serrated in front. The flowers, which
are borne in great profusion, are of a pleasing
shade of bright rose. This Boronia, which is a
native of New South Wales, was introduced into
this country in 1816. Taken altogether, the
Boronias are certainly a very pleasing class of
plants whose flowering season is spread over
a lengthened period, for quite early in the year
the sober-tinted, but deliciously fragrant blos-
soms of B. megastigma fill the greenhouse with
their perfume; after which comes the newer B.
heterophylla, whose rosy carmine coloured blos-
soms are borne in such profusion, that the entire
plant is quite a mass of flower. If the foliage of
this is agitated, the scent therefrom is decidedly
unpleasant. The pink blossoms of B. pinnata
are very pretty, but they are rarely seen. B.
elatior is a decidedly ornamental member of the
genus and one of the latest to flower, in addition
to which it is more easily grown than some of
them. It forms a freely-branched bush somewhat
upright in habit, clothed with bright green pinnate
leaves, and with drooping rosy red flowers. All
the Boronias, being natives of Australia, require
greenhouse treatment and a soil principally com-
posed of sandy peat, to which some cultivators
add a little fibrous loam. Thorough drainage is

June 8, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

401

essential, and, in common with most other hard-
wooded plants, the watering needs to be carefully
done. Cuttings are not at all difficult to root,
but especial pains are needed to ensure a good
bushy style of growth, for unless care is taken in
this respect the young plants are very apt to run
up thin and naked at the base, particularly B.
elatior and B. megastigma. To counteract this
tendency as far as possible, the young plants must
be stopped freely during their earlier stages, and
a free circulation of air is essential. — T.

Correa cardinalis. — Among the hard-wooded
subjects known generally as New Holland plants
that are flowering just now this Correa is par-
ticularly noticeable, as the blossoms are not only
brighter in colour, but in other respects it differs
widely from any of its associates. It is a plant
that many fail to grow in a satisfactory manner,
yet in Messrs. Low's nursery at the present time
numerous little bushes in pots only 5 inches in
diameter, and profusely laden with bloom, are
now at their best. This Correa needs a soil prin-
cipally composed of peat and sand, to which a
little good loam may with advantage in some
cases be added. To encourage a bushy habit of
growth it needs to be stopped freely during its
earlier stages. The flower of this is tubular, a
little more than an inch in length, and of a bright
scarlet colour tipped with green. There are cer-
tainly signs that the old-fashioned hard-wooded
plants are slowly becoming more popular. — H. P.

Market Heaths.— Although Cape Heaths,
especially those that bloom at this season of the
year, are but little grown in private gardens at the
present time, some have remained in favour as
market plants. Prominent among them is Caven-
dishi, one of the finest spring-flowering plants
in cultivation. Very nicely grown little speci-
mens of it in 4i-inch and 6-inch pots are being
offered in Covent Garden. The charming little
ventricosa coccinea minor is also a favourite. It
is wonderfully free-flowering, very compact in
growth, and one of the neatest-habited mem-
bers of the family. Ventricosa superba and
grandiflora are also grown to a limited extent, and
perspicua nana is still in favour. Another favourite
kind is candidissima, an effective white-flowered
Erica now coming into bloom. It is of easier cul-
ture than the preceding, and does not require so
long a period to bring to marketable dimensions.
—J. C. B.

BLANDFORDIAS.
I succeed best with the different Blandfordias
when grown in a mixture of peat and loam, with
a liberal amount of silver sand. They are grown
in a greenhouse just shaded during the hottest
part of the day, and at no period of the vear are
they allowed to become dry ; indeed they get
pretty much the same treatmentas a Pelargonium.
By far the freest grower is B. nobilis, shown on the
upper part of the coloured plate in the issue of
May 18, and the roots of this being of a more fibrous
nature than those of the flammea section, it can be
increased far more readily by means of division, for
the larger flowered forms, and especially princeps,
need particular care to be taken in dividing an
established plant. B. nobilis can be depended upon
to flower well year after year, and as a rule the
blossoms of this are the first to expand of the
different species. A very suitable time for repot-
ting or for dividing the plants if it is intended to
do so is directly after flowering, for there is then
ample time for them to become established before
winter sets in. In dividing the thick fleshy-rooted
forms such as princeps a good plan is to wash
away the whole of the soil from the roots, so that
they are not bruised in any way, as the least in-
jury will often cause the entire root to decay.
The dividing should be done with a sharp knife, as
the two or more shoots are often at the base so
close to each other, that without great care one or
the other is very liable to be taken off' without its
due proportion of roots. In repotting these that
have had all the soil washed off a very good plan
is to sprinkle silver sand around the cut portion
and in immediate contact with the roots. When

either established or divided plants are potted,
thorough drainage should be given them, for
while they are at all times impatient of stagnant
moisture, yet they need a liberal supply of water
during the growing season. It is a good plan to
keep divided plants rather closer until the roots
take hold of the new soil. Seeds are readily
produced, especially if the precaution is taken to
fertilise the flowers, but this should not be done
unless the seeds are actually needed, as the pro-
duction of seed weakens the plant very much
more than if the spike were cut off directly the
flowers decay. The thick wax-like texture of
these Blandfordia flowers is a great point in their
favour, for they remain fresh and bright a con-
siderable time. Some of these Blandfordias
are difficult to obtain from nurseries and high
prices are charged for them, but one of our prin-
cipal Orchid dealers who has lately devoted
some attention to new and uncommon plants
announces B. grandiflora at the relatively low price
of half-a-crown. This species is unknown to me.
but it is, I see, described in the " Dictionary of
Gardening" as having been introduced in 1812.
T.

Staking1 plants. — Though a very simple opera-
tion, this is frequently carried out in a most un-
satisfactory manner, and many instances have
come under my notice of late in which plants have
been greatly damaged by negligent staking.
These remarks do not refer to the training of
specimens, but the plants in which a single stick
is employed just to keep them in position. The
great error that is made by many is to insert the
stick but a short distance in the soil, hence the
plant will in many cases have to support the stick
after a time. When plants are sent from a dis-
tance this style of staking is often liable to cause
great injury to them, and I have had ample op-
portunity of seeing the ill-effects of this in the
case of many plants from different sources and
sent from various parts of the country. One very
pronounced case was a quantity of flowering Car-
nations in 5 inch pots, whose heavy sticks from an
insufficient hold of the soil had swayed about and
greatly injured many of the plants. On the other
hand, a greater number sent from a long distance
travelled well, each stick being inserted right to
the bottom of the pot, and consequently all was
made secure. By old-fashioned gardeners this
was impressed upon the beginner as one of the
most essential features in tying plants, but, judg-
ing by the instances that have of late come under
my notice, this unsatisfactory way of staking
plants seems greatly on the increase. — H. P.

NEW STOVE PLANTS AT THE TEMPLE
SHOW.

To anyone familiar with the large masses of fine-
foliaged new plants that were so prominent at the
principal shows of the Royal Horticultural and
Botanic Societies some fourteen years ago or more,
the recent exhibition at the Temple Gardens
afforded a good illustration of the vagaries of
fashion, for the various Dracaenas, Crotons,
Dieflenbachias, Aralias, and such things were
conspicuous only by their almost total absence ;
indeed, new stove plants of this class were con-
tributed by only one exhibitor. Undoubtedly the
best fine-foliaged stove plant was Dracaena God-
seffiana, which is totally distinct from anything
else we have. Instead of one stout stem furnished
regularly with foliage, thus forming a symmetri-
cal-shaped specimen, this newer kind pushes up
shoots from the base after the manner of a Bam-
boo. These shoots elongate and finally branch,
thus forming a loose bush-like plant. The oval-
shaped leaves, which are from 2 inches to 3 inches
long, are of a deep rich green, freely spotted with
creamy yellow. As far as I know there is only
one other Dracaena in this way, and that is D.
surculosa maculata, which was introduced from
Old Malabar in 18G7. The leaves of this are more
lanceolate in shape than those of D. Godseffiana,
and the marking consists only of light green spots

on a dark green ground. A fine mass, too, was
shown of D. Sanderiana, which, though not really
new, is of recent introduction. This is a very
pretty Drac:Lna, the clear silvery variegation of
which stands out very distinctly from the bright
green of the rest of the leaf. The spread of the
foliage is so limited that a single plant does not
make much of a display, but a large mass com-
posed of numerous stems, as shown at the Temple,
forms a very striking feature. Heliconia illustris
rubricaulis, represented by a fine specimen, has
been before the public for two or three years, but
it is still very scarce and commands a good price.
It is the finest member of the genus, the marking
being after the manner of the better-known H.
aureo striata, but the colour is quite different.
In H. illustris rubricaulis the ground colour of the
leaf is green, with the prominent mid-rib of a
beautiful shade of pink, while the veins are also
marked in a similar manner. The leaf-stalks, too,
are rich reddish pink. The general aspect of this
Heliconia is that of a bold, yet somewhat dwarf-
growing form of Canna. Ludovica crenifolia, a
Palm-like subject allied to Cyclanthus, with dark
green leathery leaves, is a bold decorative plant,
while several forms of Anthurium, apparently
hybrids of A. Andreanum, were very noticeable.
The rich crimson spathes, combined with the large
dark green leaves of A. albanense, were particu-
larly striking. H. P.

Books.

A HAND-BOOK TO THE CARNIVORA.*

In this are comprised the members of the cat
family, civets, and mungooses. It is perhaps the
most interesting of the series known as " Allen's
Naturalist's Library," being full of spirited
accounts of the hunting of lions, tigers, and the
larger and ferocious felidae. Graceful and agile,
the "cat," using the term in the comprehensive
sense in which it is here used, has but little in its
tastes and habits to recommend it to the friend-
ship of man, and, in fact, excepting the domesti
cated races, mankind could do very well without
the cat tribe. In regard to external character-
istics, it is perhaps not generally known that the
whiskers, or vibrissa?, are important organs of
touch or perception. An exception to the long,
cylindrical, and tapering tail of the tribe gene-
rally is found in the lion, as most observers will
have probably noticed. All cats walk on their
toes. The warmer parts of Asia and Africa are
regarded aB the headquarters of the cat family,
although practically, with the exception of New
Zealand, New Guinea (perhaps Celebes), the West
Indian Islands (save Trinidad, regarded as part of
South America), and the circum-polar regions,
the distribution is cosmopolitan. In the present
day Europe is fortunate in the possession of
only three species — viz., the wild cat, the common
lynx, and the Spanish lynx. Among other
animals the nearest relations to the felidae are the
civets. From a certain structural resemblance of
the skull and teeth it is generally considered that
the cats originated from carnivora more or less
closely allied to the civets. The lion is dis-
tinguished from the majority of members of the
tribe by its inability to climb. The carriage and
appearance of the lion in its native haunts are said
not to be imposing, and its character for magna-
nimity, if the term be allowed in this con-
nection, has been doubted. The magnificence of
its roar is generally conceded. In Africa lions
associate in parties, comprising up to as many as
ten, and a great hunter (Mr. Selous) has even
seen as many as twenty-three in a party. The old
idea of the lion being a clean and dainty feeder is
not sustained, and it is said that it will scarcely

* " A Hand-book to the Carnivora." Part 1. By
Richard Lydekker, B.A., F.B.S. W. H. Allen and
Co., Limited.

402

THE GARDEN.

[June 8; 1835.

ever pass by the carcase of a slain animal, even
though it be in an advanced state of decomposition,
without stopping for a meal. Of the tiger very
much has been written and said which will be found
here also, but it is perhaps not generally known
that at a pinch the tiger will make a meal off a
snake. A tiger suddenly disturbed by a sports-
man will avail itself of any loophole of escape, but
—and this somewhat discounts the above state-
ment—as the way the disturber has entered is
usually the most obvious road of escape, the result
is frequently disastrous to one or both. Tigers do
not generally climb trees unless pressed by fear,
but they have been known to clamber or even
spring to a certain height where they have seen a
man, and whence they thought the shot came, and
pull him down. The muscular power of the tiger
is enormous. The chapter on the tiger is most
interesting. As regards the leopard, it is a des-
perate beast to hunt, as when wounded it will
tight to the last, and on this account is regarded
as even more dangerous than the lion. Unlike
the lion and the tiger, it is essentially an arboreal
animal. A favourite prey is the dog, and a
traveller on a mountain path if accompanied by a
dog may be surprised by the sudden dash of a
leopard in pursuit of his canine companion. In
India leopards not infrequently take to man-eat-
inc The jaguar is a native of South America, as
the puma is of the northern continent. Then
amongst other wild things we have the marbled
cat, the Thibetan tiger cat, the flat-headed cat of
Borneo, the fishing cat of India, Ceylon, Burmah,
South China, and thereabouts, remarkable from
the great majority of its kindred by its habit of
preying upon fish In addition to fish it is known
to feed largely on the large amphibious snails,
known as ampullarise, which are met with in
thousands in every marsh or "jhil" in Lower
Bengal. How these succulent morsels are so deftly
extracted from the somewhat hard shell is not
known. The chapters on the ocelot of North
and South America, the tiger cat of Mexico and
Paraguay, the weasel-like eyra of Brazil, Guiana
and Paraguay, and the Caffre cat of Africa from
Egypt and Algeria to the Cape are full of interest,
and with the last-named species we are brought to
the cats of the Old World, beginning with the
domestic cat, of which we know much less than
we imagine we do, as the book clearly shows.

With regard to the introduction of domestic
cats into Europe there is a considerable amount of
uncertainty, and it has been asserted that the so-
called cat of the ancient Greeks was really the
marten. That the cat was domesticated in
Europe before the Christian era, we have it on the
authority of Professor Mivart. Great value was
set on the cat. Towards the end of the sixth
century, as is shown by the fact that in many
European countries, including Wales, cat-killers
were punished with what was no doubt to some a
heavy fine — i.e., the delinquent was required to
cover the body of the animal with wheat, the tail
being held up vertically, with the cat's muzzle
resting on the ground. According to Jardine, no
animal so soon loses its cultivation as the domestic
cat and returns apparently to a state nearly wild.
Then follow some curious cat stories. Cat skins
are of considerable commercial importance, and
the fur, which is stated to be one of the warmest,
is extensively used for coat-linings, muffs, trim-
mings, rugs, &c. Black skins are the most valu-
able, and of these the best come from Holland ;
the very best Dutch pelts sometimes command as
much as from six to eight shillings each. As is
well known, the fur of the cat when rubbed is
highly electrical, giving off sparks which in a dark
room are easily visible. The wild cat of Europe
and Northern Asia, the Pampas cat of South
America, the jungle cat of India, the caracal of
Africa and Asia, the Canadian lynx and the lynx
family generally, with the hunting leopard of
India, are all the subject of interesting chapters
in this part 1, which also includes the civets and
the mungooses, with some account of extinct cats.
It is a work of great value and interest in a handy
form. Like the rest of the series, it is full of
coloured illustrations.

Trees and Shrubs.

MAGNOLIA CONSPICUA ON A HOUSE.
This fine-flowering tree of the early spring is
not often seen growing on walls, but that it

this way. One fine specimen on a Sussex house,
having reached the top, was a glorious picture
in flower, and hardly less beautiful in luxuriant
leafage throughout the summer and autumn.
In low-lying or unfavourable districts where
late frosts are apt to occur and mar the beauty
of these tine Magnolias when they
are flowering, there are good reasons
for giving them the benefit of wall
shelter, as it may be the result of
ensuring their successful blooming
safe from risk of injury. Judging,
too, from specimens that flower
freely in the vicinity of London,
such as at Gunnersbury and Syon,
owners of suburban gardens who
have insufficient room for plant-
ing this tree in the open might
with advantage grow it against their
houses. We should like to see it
as popular as the Wistaria, which
lately was flowering freely in scores
of suburban gardens.

Azalea Anthony Koster. —
When this was first shown at the
meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society on April 11, 1893, it received
a first-class certificate and was noted
in The Garden as " one of the finest
things of the meeting." After a
lapse of two years this opinion is
not likely to be disputed, for it has
turned out to be a most beautiful
Azalea, and was very conspicuous
among Messrs. Veitch's exhibits at
the recent Temple show. It is cer-
tainly a very fine form of A. mollis,
having the sturdy, free-flowering
character common to that kind. The
flowers are large and the petals un-
usually broad, while their colour is
very pleasing, being a brilliant
orange-yellow with just a suspicion
of a rose shade. It is certainly a
grand Azalea either for flowering
under glass or as a shrub in the open
ground, where it blooms rather
earlier than the bulk of the Ghent
Azaleas. A. Anthony Koster has
been spoken of as a hybrid between
A. mollis and A. sinensis, but these
two are usually regarded as synony-
mous. At all events, it is a grand
garden form, and where it is intended
to plant a number of hardy Azaleas
this variety should be made a note of.
— T.

Tulip trees. — Almost the only
deciduous tree— so far as I have yet
ssen- appreciably injured by frost
during the winter is the Tulip tree.
There is a very lofty one, probably
some 00 feet to 70 feet high, perhaps
more — for it towers up above all
surrounding trees in the grounds of
Canbury Lodge, Kingston — which I
have watched for some time past, as
a long time elapsed after the usual
period of foliation ere it put forth
any leafage. Even now (the end of
May) it has but a very miserable leaf
covering ; indeed, 1 should think
two-thirds of the branches are dead.
The case is not singular, as even on
sand at Reigate and in a sheltered
place (Woodhatch) I noticed the
other day that a large Tulip tree
was fully two-thirds killed. It would
The Yulan (Magnolia conspicua) on a house front. be mteresting to learn how far other

Tulip trees have been affected. — A. D.
may be successfully grown and flowered in this Xanthoceras sorbifolia.-Although more
way is well shown by the accompanying en- than twenty years have passed since this plant
graving of a large plant in abundant blossom, first became known, it still remains one of the
M. Soulaugeana we have also seen grown in rarest of our hardy shrubs. If any doubts pre-

June 8, 1*«5 |

THE GARDEN

403

viously existed as to it3 hardiness in the neigh-
bourhood of London cat any rate, the fact of its
having passed through such a winter as the past
one without any injury should set them at rest.
At Kew, where it is grown against a wall and also
in the open without protection, it is in each case
in flower. Its beauty, however, is greater in the
more exposed position, the flowers being more
abundant, and the handsome foliage and habit of
the plant being seen to better advantage than
when cramped against a wall. It is a native of
North China, and its first introduction to Europe
in 1868 has to be credited to the Abb<5 David, a
name which has since become associated with the
discovery and introduction of numerous Chinese
plants. It is a shrub (ultimately a small tree)
belonging to the Horse Chestnut family, and has
handsome pinnate foliage of a bright glossy
green. The leaflets are seven or nine in number,
and have serrated margins. The flowers are
densely packed in short racemes, 4 inches to
6 inches long, produced from the terminal buds of
last year's growth. The flower is a little over
1 inch in diameter, the petals white, with a
brownish red patch at the base. The species is
one to be recommended to all lovers of sprirg
flowering trees and shrubs. The generic name
refers to the five yellow horn-like glands at the
base of the petals. — B.

Rhododendron blandfordiseflorum.— This
is one of the few Himalayan Rhododendrons that
can be called really hardy in the home counties.
Although a very distinct species compared with
the common type of Rhododendron, it has not
been looked upon generally as one of much value
horticulturally, and it is not until one sees it grow-
ing and flowering as it does in Sir Edmund Loder's
garden at Leonardslee, near Horsham, and in the
neighbouring garden of Mr. F. D. Godman, that
its beauty and really effective character can be fully
learnt. At Mr. (iodman's there is a specimen
about 8 feet high and 6 feet through which
a short time ago was simply covered with flowers ;
this is probably one of the finest specimens grown
out-of-doors in this country excepting, of course,
in the far south and west. The flowers as a rule
are of a somewhat dull orange or cinnabar-red,
and longer in proportion to their width than the
flowers of ordinary Rhododendrons are. Their
shape and size as well as their usually semi-drooping
position render them comparable to a Lapageria.
In Sir Ed. Loder's garden there is a remarkable
variety in which the inside of the flower is quite a
rich crimson. Two other species. Roylei and
cinnabarinum, are very closely allied to this ; no
clearly defined lines of distinction can, in fact, be
found to separate them, hence they are sunk under
one name in the "Flora of British India." —
W. J. B.

TREES AND SHRUBS IN IRELAND.

It has been suggested that it would be of in-
terest to lovers of plants that some record
should be kept of the effects of the unusually
severe frost of last winter, and as we grow
about 1100 different varieties of more or less
rare plants in the gardens here, I have ventured
to send you a list showing the casualties, the
slightly injured and the uninjured. Among
the first are several which, unfortunately, were
moved just before the frost and snow set in, and
it is, perhaps, hardly fair to count them among
the dead, but I thought it best to give a state-
ment of the whole.

When we read of the common Laurel having
been killed in various parts of England, some
people may be surprised at the number of rare
and half-hardy things which have survived here,
but the reason, I believe, is that the gardens
lie on the slope of a hill, are well sheltered by
old trees, and that the prevailing wind passes
over the heads of the shrubs. In the list of
survivals I have not mentioned the commoner
sorts. Tea Roses have not suffered in the
least, and out of some TOO plants of Pampas

Grass, about two dozen have been killed. Out
of 160 varieties of conifers, the following were
more or less injured : Cupressus Lawsoniana
albo-spica, C. erecta viridis, C. pyramidalis
argentea, C. macrocarpa, Juuiperus virginiana
albo-spica, P. insignis, Podocarpus andina,
Sequoia sempervireus, Sequoia albo-spica, Glyp-
tostrobus heterophyllus. This is a bad season
for Rhododendrons blooming, but of Himalayan
kinds, R. barbatum, R. ciliatum, R. campanu-
latuni, R. fulgens, R. Thomsoui, R. Aucklandi,
R. calophyllum, and R. niveum have flowered
freely.

Shrubs Uninjured.
Abelia floribunda Desfontainea Hookeri

serrata spinosa

Acanthopanax ricinifolia Desmodium pendulifo-

Aciphylla Colensoi

squarrosa
Actinidia argentea

Kolomikta

volubilis
Adenocarpus decorticans
Ailantus glandulosa
Akebia quinata
Amorpha fruticosa
Arbutus Rollissoni
Aristolochia altissima

Sipho
Asimina triloba
Astragalus tragacantha
Atriplex Nuttalli

Halimus
Azara Gillesi

integrifolia

microphylla
Baccharis patagonica
Bambusa (12 varieties,

all perfectly hardy)
Benthamia fragifera
Berberis aristata

buxifolia

congestifolia

Darwini

dulcis

Jamesoni

nepalensis

Newberti

stenophylla

Thunbergi
Bignonia grand iflora

speciosa
Broussonetia Ka-mpferi
Buddleia Lindleyana
Ca-salpinia japonica
Camellias, sorts
Caragana Chamlagu

frutescens

lium
Drimys aromatica

Winteri
Eheagnus aurea mar-
ginata

edulis
Embothrium coccineum

(against a wall)
Ephedra altissima
Eriobotrya japonica
Escallonia Phillipiana

pterocladon
Eucalyptus coccifera

cornigera

urnigera
Eucryphia pinnatifolia
Eurybia erubesoens

purpurea
Fabiana imbricata
Garrya elliptiea
( ienista setnensis

Andreann

sagittalis
Glyptostrobus pendula
Grevillea rosmarinifolia
Griaelinia litturali*

lucida
Halimondendrnn argen-

teum
Hartogia capi-'iisi>
Hedyearum multiju-

gu'm
Hymenanthera crassi-

folia
Idesia polyearpa
Indigofera floribunda

< ierardiana alba
Kadsura japonica
Ku/lreuteria paniculata
Lagerstro/mia indica
Lardizabala biternata

Carmichaelia flagellifor- Ilex latifolia

mis
Caryopteris mastacan-

thus
Cassinia fulvida
Cedrela sinensis
Celastrus scandens
Circidophyllum japoni-

cum
Chamairops humilis
Choisya ternata
Cinnamomum sericeum
Cladrastis amurensis
Clerodendron trichoto-

mum
Cleyera japonica
Cordyline Banksi

indivisa
Coriaria myrtifolia
Crinodendron Hookeri
Cunninghamia sinensis
Cytisus capitatus
Daphne Blagayana

cneorum

Fioniana

Leptospennum bullatum

kevigatum
Limonia laurifolia
Limoniastrum monope-

talum
Lindera obtusifolia
Lomatia pinnatifolia
Metrosideros floribunda

robusta
Mitraria coccinea
Olea fragrans
Olearia dentata

Fosteri

gummifera

Haasti

macrodonta

nitida
Osmanthus argenteus
var.

aureus var.

ilicifolius

myrtifolius
Phillyrea decora

Vilmoriniana
Philodendron amurense

Mazelli

Daphniphyllum glauces- Photinia serrulata
cens Benthamiana

jessoense Piptanthus nepalensis

Pittosporum Colensoi

coriaceum

eriolomum

lucidum

Mayi

undulatum
Platycarya japonica
Quercus bambus:vfolia

Buergeri
Rheum officinale
Rhynchospermum ja
ponicum variegatum
Rubus japonicus

odoratus
Senecio compactus

ela-agnifolius

Fosteri

petasites
Smilax aspera

Shrubs

Abelia rupestris
Agapanthus umbellatus

albus
Aloysia citriodora
Anopteris glandulosa
Aralia papyrifera
Arbutus Menziesi
Ardisia japonica
Aristotelia racemosa
Aster argophyllus
Buddleia globosa
Calceolaria violacea
Callistemon coccineus

spectabilis
Carpenteria californica
Ceanothus azureus

divaricatus

Gloire de Versailles
Clethra arborea
Colletia bictonensis

cruciata
Coprosma lucidum
Corynocarpus lavigatus
Edwardsia microphylla

grandiflora
Eheagnus macrophylla
Eryngium pandanifolium
Escallonia Ingrami

macrantha

organensis
Eucalyptus Gunni

pilularis

Shrubs Killed

Smilax latifolia
Stephanandra flexuosa
Trachycarpus excelsus
Veronica anomala

Traversi
Viburnum cassinioides

macrocephalum

nudum

plicatum

Tinus
Weinmannia racemosa
Xanthoceras sorbifolia
Vucca aloifolia variegata

filamentosa

flexilis

gloriosa

recurva

Treculeana

Whipplei

Injured.

Eugenia apiculata

myrtifolia

Ugni
Fontanesia phillyra?oides
Glyptostrobus hetero-
phyllus
Grevillea sulphurea
Griselinia macrophylla
Hakea crassifolia
Laurus nobilis
Libertia ixioides
Maclura aurantiaca
Meliosma pungens
Myrsine ilicifolia
Myoporum sp.
Myrtles
Phormium tenax

variegatum
Phygelius capensis
Pittosporum floribundum

nigrescens

Tobira
Quercus cuspidata

glabra
Serissa fcetida
Veronica Andersoni

Hulkeana

decussata

salicifolia

selaginoides
Viburnum Awafuki

Eupatorium riparium
Greyia Sutherlandi
Macadamia ternifolia
Ozothamnus rosmarini-

folius
Pittosporum eugenioides
Plumbago capensis
Raphiolepis glabra

ovata
Rhodomyrtus tomentosa
Rubus australis

phiunicolasius
Solanum jasminoides
Sollya heterophylla
Tecoma jasminoides
Thea assamica

Bohea

J. Ryan.

The Gardens, Castlewellan, Co. Down.

Rose Perle des Jardins. — No yellow Rose
can equal this for consistency of form, and no
other kind is so continuous in its flowering. Well
managed plants commencing to open their blooms
in March continue to give a succession of neatly-
formed flowers especially suitable for making into
button-hole bouquets, &e. Mr. Axford, near East-
leigh, is a large grower of this Rose, house after
house being devoted to this variety. In fact, with
the exception of a batch of Catherine Mermet and
some dozen or so plants of Mare'chal Niel, Perle
des Jardins is the only Rose grown. Numerous

Acacia melanoxylon

undulata
Billardiera longifolia
Bucklandia populnea
Cassia coquimbensis
Chironia diantha'folia
Correa viridis
Corypha australis
Dicksonia antarctica
Diosma gracilis
Epigynum leucobotrys
Escallonia coquimbensis

montevidensis
Eucalyptus cordata

obliqua

piperita

rostrata

404

THE GARDEN.

[June 8, 1895.

span-roofed houses have been built for its ac-
commodation, each containing about three hun-
dred plants. The plants are all grown in 7-inch
and 8-inch pots, stood upon side beds of a sandy
loam in rows of four plants on each side of a
central pathway. The roots run through the
bottom of the pots into the soil, where of course
they receive much support. The pots, however,
check the luxuriant growth that might otherwise
be troublesome if they were planted out. Some
of the plants have not been repotted or disturbed
for five years. I never saw such healthy foliage.
The great point which Mr. Ax ford observes is
never to allow the air to become chilled during the
night, that, he finds, being the greatest source of
mildew. Every night the hot-water pipes are
warmed about ten o'clock so as to maintain an
equable temperature throughout the night. This
practice is carried out all through the summer
months, and apparently with excellent results.
The plants obtain very little artificial aid ; an oc-
casional dose of liquid manure from the stable
tank is all that is necessary. The plants are all
grafted on the seedling Brier. Capital growth is
made the first year, this being several times
pinched back to lay the foundation of the future
bush. The plants are hard pruned during the
winter or early spring, according to the time they
are required to bloom. — E. M.

WOODLAND PATHS.
There is no lack of admirers of glowing beds
of colour, of blossoming climber and of trim
parterre, but it is seldom that the horticulturist
waxes eloquent over the beauties of shady wood-
land ways ; yet these often possess unostenta-
tious attractions that are found wanting in the
more emphatic charms of the flower garden.
Very restful to the senses are those wood-paths
that have been left by their originator Man to
the predominant partner Nature to fashion and
decorate after her own manner. She festoons
with Honeysuckle, Eglantine and Bryony the
boughs on which the glints of sunlight fall. In
the shade she weaves the Ivy wreath. On
either side the path she plants Ferns ; in the
lower lands the graceful Lady Fern ; in the
higher, the Bracken and Blechnum ; while in
the Fir plantations that clothe the river banks
on the fringe of the moor, great fronds full 4 feet
high of the Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) shoot
up from the peaty soil.

It is such a path, where Nature has been left
undisturbed, that the illustration depicts. In
the spring the wild Hyacinths and Primroses
mingle their blue and yellow with the young
green of the Ferns. The white-throats and
blackcap warblers build hard by iu the under-
growth of Hazel wands and ground Ash. The
squirrel, leisurely approaching up the middle of
the track, stops suddenly and, motionless, with
tufted ears pricked, eyes the intruder for a good
half minute until some movement of hand or
foot sends him flying to the refuge of the over-
hanging boughs.

A blue flash through the greenery, the king-
fisher threads the leafy alley on his way from
the lake above, where in summer evenings the
Loch Leven troutlets leap beneath the shade
of the Alders, to the little stream that meanders
down the valley below.

At high noon, when in the open the atmo-
sphere palpitates with heat, the wood-way lies
cool and still, the shifting rays of sunlight that
filter through the Beech leaves tessellating its
green carpet with an ever-varying mosaic of
light and shade.

In the gloaming the fronds of the Lady Fern
move aside as the young rabbits come out to
play on the open spaces of the path, and in
the mysterious glimmer that comes between
the twilight and the dark, the white owls call

to one another from the outlying trees, while ! inevitably always some which are a "ood deal
ever and anon, on silent pinions, a ghost-like | larger than this ; these, however °are also
form sweeps noiselessly through the dim aisles, I utilised by the pickle-makers for another class
and the dew-laden air is full of the indefinable ! of their products, but the

scents of the woods.

S. W. F.

THE MARKET GARDEN.

(Contimied from page 332.)
Cucumbers and Gherkins.

more uniformly the
Gherkins are of the smaller size, the better the
prices which they command. Not picked but
as they are ordinarily sent to the Halle market
they fetch from 8s. 4d. to 10s. 3d. per cwt., but
the small-sized pickled Gherkins will sell for
25s. per cwt. An acre of ground would produce
,,, Gherkins to the value of £32, but thev are

l^SB axe lately grown in the fields in the \ rarely grown by individual cultivators on so
neighbourhood of Pans, and there is no reason I large a scale as this, on account of the great

expense which the gather-

ing of such an extensive
crop would entail.

Spinach and Sorrel.

It is not very long since
Spinach and Sorrel were
introduced as a catch crop
in field culture in the
neighbourhood of Paris,
where they are generally
grown on lightly-broken-
up Corn stubbles. The
seed is usually sown
broadcast, and but little
further trouble or atten-
tion is required. Some •
cultivators sow in drills
and thin the plants out
to ensure a more regular
and equable growth, and
they are amply repaid by
having a heavier crop in
consequence.

The gathering of the
leaves commences in Sep-
tember and October and
is continued throughout
the winter whenever a
thaw takes place. The
yield is largest in spring
before the plants come
into flower. According to
the season a hundred-
weight of Spinach leaves
will fetch from (is. 3d. to
16s. 8d. in the market.

The varieties most suit-
able for field culture are :

1. EPINARD MOXSTRUECX

de Viroflay, which has
exceedingly large leaves.

2. Epixard a feuilles
de laitue, the leaves of
which are closely set,
roundish oval in shape and
very green.

3. Epinard lent a mon-
ter, which in spring con-
tinues in full bearing for

after the other kinds have

A woodland walk. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph
sent by Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert, Torquay.

why they should not also be grown in this way j about three weeks
in any locality where a pickle factory can be come into flower,
established. It has been observed that Spinach, which be-

The seed is sown about the beginning of May, | longs to the natural family of the Chenopodiacew,
when the ground has become warm, in pockets, j does badly if sown in ground from which a crop
which are made in the soil in lines about G| feet of Beetroot (which belongs to the same family)
apart. Usually some other kind of vegetable, has last been taken, and this is one of the
most frequently Haricot Beans which are to be ! reasons why it is recommended to sow Spinach
gathered green, is grown in the intervals be- on a Corn stubble.

tween the lines of pockets. The crop com- Sorrel is frequently grown in the same way,
mences to come in in July, and is produced con- but being a perennial lasts longer in the ground,
tinuously until September. The variety which j At Vareddes, not far from Paris, a very well-
is grown in the fields is the Cornichon vert de managed and prosperous branch of industry in
Paris, the fruit of which is spiny, very green, connection with this plant is carried on by M.
and continuously produced in almost inexhaust- Clairet, in whose establishment the Sorrel
ible abundance. The Gherkins are gathered j leaves are boiled and made into a paste, which is
when they are about the thickness of the little > sent out in boxes or barrels very ingeniously
finger, but at every ensuing gathering there are I contrived so as to prevent the paste from drying

June 8, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

405

up and also to neutralise the corrosive action of
the acid salt of the Sorrel upon the metal of
which the boxes, &c, are made.

The best variety of Sorrel for field culture is
the Oseille large de Belleville.

Strawberries.

The culture of the large-fruited kinds of
Strawberries should be placed almost on the
same footing as that of Asparagus, if it is to be
carried out with the justice which is due to it.
The experience of forty years' successful culture
testifies to the economic importance of this
crop in the neighbourhood of large towns.
Strawberries bear carriage badly, and it is more
difficult to send them to any considerable dis-
tance in good condition than any other fruit
which is grown in our climate ; consequently a
considerable preference for excellence is given
to those Strawberries which are grown not far
from the markets to which the fruit can be sent
in a very short time without being exposed to
the detrimental effects of very hot weather or
of too much shaking and jolting on the journey.
In the neighbourhood of Paris, the Strawberries
which are grown for the Halle market are culti-
vated on the edges of valleys, on well-exposed
slopes of rising ground, and (favourite position
of all) on declivities from which trees and
shrubs have been cleared off. The quantity of
water in the annual rainfall is generally quite
sufficient for the plants which are grown in this
way, and they never receive any artificial water-
ing. A plantation ordinarily lasts for three
years, yielding half a crop in the first year and
full crops in the two succeeding seasons. Plant-
ing is done either in April or September as
weather or circumstances may permit, and
after the third seasou's crop is gathered the
plantation, being no longer sufficiently profit-
able, is rooted up. The good qualities which a
variety of Strawberry should possess to recom-
mend it to cultivators are many in number. In
the first place, 1 may mention earliness in bear-
ing, which ensures a high market price at the
commencement of the season ; then vigour of
growth, maintaining an abundant production ;
colour in the fruit, which renders it more sale-
able ; and as great a capacity as possible for
bearing carriage without injury, so that it may
be quite fresh when it reaches the market.

The following seven varieties are favourite
ones with the growers in the neighbourhood of
Paris, and can be recommended as well adapted
for field culture : —

1. Fraise Marguerite is highly esteemed for
the earliness and large size of its fruit, which is
rather pale in colour and deficient in quality, yet
sells very well until the ordinary early kinds come
to market.

'-'. Princesse Royale is an old French variety,
which is still highly thought of by the growers
around Paris. It is very early, very productive,
and highly coloured. The central part of the
fruit is so solid and tough, that it is known at the
Halle market as the " Fraise a noyau," or "Straw-
berry with a stone."

3. Docteur Morere. — An early, large and very
productive kind, of excellent quality. The fruit
is palish in colour and prone to grow hollow at
the centre ; nevertheless it is highly deserving of
recommendation.

4. Vicumtesse Hericart de Thury, commonly
abbreviated to " Ricart," is a very early kind
with a fine colour and of exquisite flavour. This
is by far the best variety of Strawberry for field
culture. It has only one drawback, viz., that the
fruit is rather small-sized, and now-a-days in the
markets a fine appearance goes before excellence
of quality.

5. Jucunda. — This is the most productive, the
hardiest and the most vigorous-growing variety
of all. It is not a very early-fruiting kind, but

bears plentifully and for a long time, and the
fruit is very fine-looking and well coloured.

0. Sir Joseph Paxton. — This variety is begin-
ning to be more extensively grown about Paris.
It bears a superb, large, conical, well-shaped fruit
with a magnificent colour. It is a very late kind,
but is none the worse for that.

7. Belle de Cours. — This is in every respect
one of the handsomest and best kinds of Straw-
berries, early and very productive. The fruit is
long in shape and of a handsome deep colour,
shining as if varnished and excellent for both
quantity and quality.

When Strawberries are grown on a large
scale for market it is advisable not to confine
oneself to a single variety, but to divide the
ground between two or three varieties which
ripen at different periods. In this way the
grower is not only secured from the risk of
losing too much through the occurrence of un-
usually unfavourable weather, which might hit
one variety very hard and do very little harm to
the others, but he can also distribute the work
of gathering the fruit over a longer period and
profit by the generally higher market prices
which prevail both at the commencement and
at the end of the season.

Haricots or Kidney Beans.

With regard to the special subject of which I
am treating, no other vegetable presents so
much difficulty as Haricot Beans, on account of
the great variety of ways in which they may be
grown in different localities and sometimes in
the same locality — hence a correspondingly large
Dumber of distinct varieties and of different
modes of culture has to be taken into account.
Requiring more heat than moisture and growing
rapidly, Haricot Beaus are easily grown as a
summer crop, succeeding any other crop which
is cleared off in spring (such as early Potatoes,
Spinach, or Red Clover), and at the end of
September leaving the ground free for the sow-
ing of winter Corn.

From a cultural point of view, these Beans
are divided into two classes, viz., the tall kinds,
which require the support of stakes, &c , and
the dwarf kinds, which are of low, tufty growth
and need no stakes. It is of these dwarf kinds
that I shall here treat in connection with field
culture, as the taller-growing kinds, which
require the support of stakes, come rather
within the province of market gardening properly
so termed.

In the matter of table use, these Beans are
divided into the edible-podded (Haricots sans
parchemin or mange-tout) and the tough-podded
(Haricots a ecosser or a parchemin). The pods
of the first-named kind can be eaten as well as
the seeds, whereas the pods of the last-named
kind are only eaten in the young or green state,
and the seeds or Beans are eaten both when
freshly shelled and also in the dried state, in
which latter condition they are most largely
consumed. In most districts of p'rance the
crops of ripe Beans, which are grown amongst
other crops, as in vineyards and Maize fields,
are almost equal in quantity to the Cora crops,
and form an important article of the public
food supply, since the seeds of leguminous
vegetables, and especially these Beans, are the
least expensive of the substances which furnish
the nitrogenous elements of food.

It is very difficult to say which varieties of
Haricots are the best to grow for the ripe seeds,
some being preferred by cultivators for one
reason, and others for a different one, while the
taste of the purchaser must also be taken into
consideration, as it often counts for a good deal
in the very different prices realised for two
articles of equal intrinsic value, but of which one
is in fashion while the other is not.

Generally speaking, the white-seeded kinds are
always preferable, such as the White Flageolets
a feuilles gaufrees and hatif d'Etampes, which
are of first-class quality, Haricot de Soissons
nain, nain Bonnemain, and Haricot riz nain, or
Comtesse d' Chambord. The Haricot Suisse
blanc (and especially the dwarf variety, which
does not run at the top) and the Haricot sabre
nain d'Hollande may also be confidently grown
for a crop of dried Beans, which as long as they
are in good condition will always find a pur-
chaser.

The greenish seeded varieties, Chevrier, Mer-
veille de France, Bagnolet vert, &c, are still
more valuable than the white-seeded kinds ;
but in order to have them well coloured and
very uniform in appearance, Nature must be in
some degree assisted by the labour and skill of
the cultivator. As soon as growth has ceased
(which is easily known by the falling of the
leaves), and while the pods are still fresh, the
plants should be pulled up and placed in small
heaps not quite so large as those into which
mown Grass is first made up in hay-making.
The leaves of the plants and, if necessary, a
little straw are used to cover the heaps, in order
that the pods may dry gradually, and to exclude
light as much as possible. In about from ten
to fifteen days, if the weather is favourable, the
Beans will be well dried, and may be threshed
out.

Amongst the coloured Beans which are in de-
mand for table use, I must mention the Haricot
Flageolet rouge or rognon de coq, which is long
and cylindrical in shape, very glistening in
appearance, and always high in price, and the
Haricots nains de Chartres and d'Orleau?,
which are smaller, shorter, and olive-shaped,
and are very largely consumed by country folk.
The Haricots suisses sang de bceuf, Suisse rouge
or indien, and H. turc are abundantly supplied
in a dried state to the Halle market at Paris.
The crop can always be gathered within the
space of five months from the time of sowing,
and a still shorter period suffices for those kinds
of which the Beans are consumed in the fresh or
undried state, while those of which the green
pods only are eaten are cleared off in the shortest
time of all.

In the neighbourhood of Paris, where va-
rieties of which the Beans are only consumed
in the undried state are pretty extensively
grown, three kinds are almost exclusively cul-
tivated. Two of these I have already men-
tioned, viz., the Haricot Flageolet blanc and
Soissons nain. The third is the H. Flageolet
jaune, a very early, vigorous-growing and pro-
ductive kind, the large, plump and very delicate
flavoured seed or Bean of which is almost white
at any period of its growth before it is dried.
The Beans of the Flageolet rouge are also, but
more rarely, consumed in the undried state.

For the supply of pods which are to be con-
sumed in the green state (a very important part
of this culture in the neighbourhood of all
large towns, and of Paris in particular) the
number of varieties which are in favour is almost
unlimited. In one village district where the
cultivators devote themselves to the supply of
green pods, fifteen different varieties are grown,
each of which in some particular point merits
the preference which is given to it.

For furnishing the earliest green pods that
are sent to market the varieties Flageolet
d'Etampes, Noir de Belgique and Chocolat are
equally good. The advantage of earliness, how-
ever, is accompanied with the drawback of a
smaller yield than that which is produced by
later bearing kinds, and it has now lost very
much of its importance in consequence of the
supplies which are sent from various districts

405

THE GARDEN

[June 8, 1895.

where tlie climate is more favourable to early
growth than that of Paris. These green pods,
like Asparagus, but in a less degree, bear
carriage well and are sent to Paris from Bor-
deaux, Provence, and even from the south of
Spain.

For the general or main supply of the season
the preference is given to free-bearing kinds
the pods of which are long, straight and cylin-
drical rather than too much flattened in shape,
and of a fine green colour, without any dark
streaks or markings. The dwarf kinds which
are grown for the production of green pods
should not be too short stemmed, otherwise the
long pods, coming into contact with the ground,
are liable to have their extremities dirtied and
frequently rotted by the damp soil.

The following are the principal main-season
dwarf kinds : Haricot Bagnolet or Suisse gris,
one of the kinds most generally grown about
Paris. It is not a very early variety, but is
extremely productive, hardy, long-lasting and
continuous bearing. There is a sub- variety of it
which has crimped leaves. H. Solitaire is an-
other form of H. Bagnolet, with a more branch-
ing or bushy habit of growth and smaller-sized
seeds or Beans. This, it is said, received its
name from the circumstance that only one Bean
of it is needed, in planting, to form a rather
thick or bushy growth. Be that as it may, the
practice now is to plant three or four beans of it
together in each pocket, in the same way as the
other kinds are planted.

The variety named Gloire de Dijon is ten
days earlier than the Bagnolet and bears broader
pods and not so abundantly. The two kinds
might be grown together, so as to secure from
the combination both an earlier crop and also a
plentiful and long-continued one. The Haricot
Russe, which is somewhat taller and not so
branching in growth, resembles the Bagnolet in
the length of its pods. Its seeds or Beans are
of a dull grey colour and not glistening like the
beans of the other varieties. The H. Flageolet
noir is still grown to some extent about Paris.
It has a rather delicate constitution, but its lon<*
pods are remarkably handsome in appearance.
The variety Shah de Perse is coming more and
more into favour for the production of green
pods, as it furnishes longer, straighter, and finer
looking pods than any other dwarf variety.
The plant is of very vigorous growth and bears
broad leaves. This variety does best in soils
which are constantly more or less moist up to a
certa'n degree.

The culture of the edible-podded or mange-
tout varieties may be in some measure com-
pared to that of kinds whose pods are gathered
while green . In both cases the pods are eaten
together with their contents, but the pods of
the mange-tout kinds are usually allowed to
become more advanced in growth, so that the
Beans which they contain are more or less fully
formed when the pods are gathered for table
use.

The best known and most highly esteemed of
all the edible-podded kinds in the neighbour-
hood of Paris is the long-podded Haricot" Beurre
noir nain. This is clearly distinguishable from
the old-fashioned H. Beurre noir nain or noir
nain d'Alger by the wider intervals between the
Beans in the pod. The Beans also are longer
and narrower at the ends. The pod, instead of
being short and thick, is almost as long as the
pod of a Flageolet. The plant is vigorous-
growing, hardy and very productive. The
Haricot nain mange-tout extra-hatif and the
H. Beurig blanc nain are also to be recom-
mended for the whiteness of their Beans, and
the first-named of these varieties for its special
earliness.

Amongst the edible-podded kinds with green
or coloured pods I may also mention Haricot
nain unique, an exceedingly productive and
hardy kind, bearing numerous thick pods, and
the singular H. nain a cosses violettes, an early
and free-bearing variety, the pods of which when
boiled lose their natural deep violet colour and
become as green as those of any other kind.

The cultivation of a crop of Haricots or
Kidney Beans does not occupy the ground for
too long a time, and it mostly leaves the soil
clean and fertile for some other crop to follow.
This is one of its recommendations. When the
plants are grown for the sake of the ripe Beans
only, the crop does not demand anything like
the amount of hand labour that is required
when they are grown for the green pods.

(To be continued.)

THE PEA AND BEAN WEEVIL.

(SITONES LINEATUS.)

The Board of Agriculture have received com-
plaints of damage having been done to Peas by a
weevil, which feeds upon several leguminous
plants. This insect is recognised as the Pea and
Bean weevil, to which attention was drawn by the
Board in 1892. Peas and Beans are very subject
to attacks by this insect, but the injury is fre-
quently attributed to slugs, because the weevil is
not by any means easily seen. It is of a dull
colour, and falls to the ground on the least alarm.
The weevil itself eats the leaves and young shoots
of the Pea and Bean plants, and its larva? devour
their roots. It is often most troublesome in
market gardens and allotment grounds, and in
some years an extensive reduction in the crops of
Peas and Beans has resulted from its attacks. It
has been known also to attack Sweet Peas in
gardens. It sometimes seriously injures red
Clover in its early stages, and its small white
maggots, or larva1, also spoil 'second cuts "of
Clover by eating the roots of the plants and stop-
ping their growth. Trifolium, too, suffers con-
siderably, particularly in its early stages, from
the attacks of this weevil, although the injury is
generally attributed to slugs and other insects.

Description and Life History.

The Pea and Bean weevil is a quarter of an
inch long. Its ground colour is dark, but the
body is covered with greyish scales, which in
some specimens are of a slightly greenish shade.
There are three lines of this grey, or grey-green,
hue on the thorax, and many lines on the wing
cases. The antennse are of a red colour, very
slender, with eiub terminations. The legs are
ferruginous. As Canon Fowler fays, " the tibia'
of the male are curved and armed with a small
hook." It is not known where the eggs are placed.
Egg-laying begins in the early spring. The
larva?., or maggots, which are white, legless,
nearly a quarter of an inch long, and somewhat
curved, live in the roots of Clover, Peas, Beans,
and other leguminous plants, and there change
to pupa?.

It is certain that some of the weevils pass the
winter in weevil form. Probably, in other cases
hibernation takes place in the pupal state, though
this is not definitely known. Nordlinger observes
that many weevils come from the pup;i? at the
end of August, and without doubt hibernate in
weevil shape. From observation, it is plain that
these insects hibernate in the perfect, as well as
in the pupal state. Larva? have also been found
at all seasons of the year among the roots of
Clover. A favourite resort of the hibernating
weevils is in the straws of stubble. They are also
carried in quantities with Peas and Beans into
ricks and barns. These weevils feed by night as
well as by day.

Methods of Prevention and Remedies.
Lime and soot, either alone or mixed, may be
advantageously distributed over infested plants

while the clew is upon them, or after rain. Finely-
powdered guano also may be used in this way.
Applications of weak solutions of paraffin, with a
little soft soap, would make infested plants dis-
tasteful to these insects. Fine powdery ma-
terials can be easily applied and well distributed
with knap?ack machines.

When Peas and Beans are attacked, it would
be desirable to press the earth tightly and firmly
close round the plants, in order to prevent the
beetles from coming up from the earth. This
might be done by men and boys walking with a
foot on either side of each row of plants. Sum-
mer-fallowing of land after an attack would be
very desirable. Wheat after Clover ley is often
infested by swarms of weevils. In this case it
would be dangerous to sow Trifolium at all. If it
is sown the land should be " broad-shared," or
cultivated and ploughed. The stubble should be
burnt. The burning of stubble, weeds, roots,
and rubbish is comparatively seldom adopted in
these days. It is believed that the infrequency
of this practice is one cause of the more frequent
and more destructive visitations of insects in-
jurious to crops. Infested Clover leys should be
deeply ploughed, with a "skim" coulter on the
plough, and thoroughly well pressed. Roots on
the top should be removed and burnt, not carted
to the outsides and left in lumps.

A MAY MORNING.

The great Tree P;eony's creamy flowers are
drenched with last night's heavy dew, and in
one of them an iridescent-winged Rose beetle
brushes glistening drops from the satin petals.
The bland air, whose every breath is a benedic-
tion, gently sways the heavy heads of the yellow
Tulips that, last of their race, glow beneath a
northern wall. The Forget-me-not border under
the Lilac tree is a hazy mist of blue. Against a
background of sombre Yew the first of the large
scarlet Poppies blazes. The land is a land of
promise — promise of profuse blossoming, of bounti-
ful verdure. The bank of Azaleas and Rhododen-
drons is hourly enlarging its coloured mantle —
daily adding tint to tint. The white Lilac is even
now in full flower, just beating her coloured sister
in the race, in which Laburnum and pink Thorn,
Syringa, and Guelder Rose will not be far behind.

At the far end of the lawn, as six sonorous notes
ring out from the deep toned bell in the neigh-
bouring church tower, a chaffinch, startled from
her nest in the Ivy clad summer-house, chirps
querulously, less placid than the green linnet that
has built between the layers of the Deodar's
boughs, which sits on in patient expectancy,
heedless alike of the belfry's call to prayer or
praise— of summons to the altar or the grave.

In rapid flight, now high, now low, the swallows
pass and repass, while far above, in an azure sky,
wheel the black arcs of the swift's wings. From
the topmost sprig of the Wellingtonia a thrush is
singing, and distant echoes reiterate the cuckoo's
call.

The day is an interlude— an interlude of
peace. The hour is an hour of which the key-
note is quietude. Restful to the eye is the old
house embowered in blossom and leaf, the flowers
of the Wistaria mingling with the glossy foliage
of the Magnolia — Reve d'Or Roses with Clematis
and Jasmine. Restful the view to the southward
— the sight of field succeeding field, hill swelling
into hill, blue distances melting into bluer atmo-
sphere, but most restful of all, in the hush of the
spring morning, is the orchard. There let us
wend our way, strolling past the Cedars, with
their memories of other climes — past the arbour,
which in another week the Laburnum will have
shrouded in a golden veil— past the great Chest-
nut, whose giant limbs are lost in a wealth of
verdant fans, and whose blossoms are already
whitening towards perfection — to where, marked
only by the light railings and sudden, foot-high
Grass on the further side, lawn merges into
orchard. An orchard less profitable than pic-
turesque, with gracious vistas gently sloping
westward — vistas canopied with the pink and

June 8, 1895 ]

THE GARDEN.

407

white of Apple blosEom, carpeted with Butter-
cups and Lady's-smocks that almost hide the
emerald of the lush-green Grass now growing so
strongly. Happy aisles of Lichen-covered trunks,
in whose recesses the green woodpecker has made
her nest. Surely there are few more beautiful
sights than such an orchard in the early hours of
a May morning. S. W. F.

Notes of the Week.

Dianthus callizonus. — This rare and beauti-
ful alpine Pink is well grown at Kew, where we
noted several specimens in the house devoted to
alpine gems, all of them flowering freely. It is
quite distinct from other species, the flowers
large, of a soft rose colour, with a darker rosy
zone in the centre covered with tiny white spots.

Cattleya Mendeli. — The Hon. Miss Winn
sends you a C. Mendeli. Please say if this is
what is called a white form, and what you think
of it. — J. Easter, Noetell Priory.

*„* A very beautiful form, but, unfortunately
for you, not the white C. Mendeli. The flower
you send is very richly coloured, a well marked
and delightful variety. — Ed.

Viburnum pyrifolium. — A large specimen of
this old, but little-known North American species
is flowering freely in the grounds at Syon House.
It is 12 feet or more in height, with a wide
spread of branches. The leaves, as the name im-
plies, are like those of a Pyrus, and the flower-
clusters resemble those of the Wayfaring Tree,
but are whiter.

Hydrangea Thomas Hogg. —There is a
remarkably fine specimen of this white-flowered
form in the exhibition house of the Botanic
Gardens, Edgbaston, Birmingham, which has pro-
duced about 100 trusses, and a noteworthy
feature is that the corymbs are all of such good
average size. It thus makes a noble conservatory
plant. — K. D.

Abutilon viti folium.— Mr. Hartland sends us
from Cork beautiful flowers of this in clusters of
four or five, the blooms very large and of a lovely
pale lilac shade. It seems a little different from
other forms we have seen. He says that the birds
build their nests in the trunk of the tree, but he
does not tell us whether a wall is needed to flower
it in such perfection.

Viburnum plicatum is not a shrub one would
recommend for training on walls, but a plant on
the wall in the R. H.S. Gardens, Chiswiek, is a
perfect picture of profuse bloom. It is covered so
thickly with its flower-clusters from bottom to top,
that scarcely a green leaf is visible. Bushy plants
in the rock garden are only thinly flowered, so
that it would appear as if the wall treatment was
more favourable.

Forget-me-nots. — I enclose you three varie-
ties of Myosotis which, amongst others, 1 have
raised from seed. No. 1 is a very strong growing
var. and rather tall ; No. 2 grows very compact
and dwarf. All the varieties are beautifully
scented. I should be very pleased to have your
opinion of them. — Arthik Rhodes.

*,* Lovely forms of the wood Forget-me-not,
worthy of further trial. — Ed.

Rosa nutksna is a vigorous and handsome
tingle Rose, conspicuous even among many kinds
in flower at Kew. The bush is quite 8 feet high,
and the shoots have few spines. The flowers are
large, numerous, and of a soft pink colour.
There seems to be some uncertainty, however, as
to the true Nootka Rose which we have seen de-
scribed in the Garden and Forest as one of the
finest wild Roses of Western America, the flowers
white, both flowers and fruit larger than those of
any other American species.

Hieracium villosum.— The Hieracium family
and its kindred are a host chiefly of weedy cha-
racter, but an exception must be made in favour
of one or two kinds that deserve some attention,
especially the subject of this note, now flowering

finely at Kew. The Shaggy Hawkweed is an ap-
propriate name for it, as the leaves and flower-
stems as well are covered with white shaggy
hairs. The flower is large, of a rich yellow
colour, borne on a stem about 1 foot high. A
coloured plate was given of this Hawkweed in
The Garden of December 29, 1894.

Hardy flowers in masses. — Hardy flowers in
a cut state arranged in a mass of one kind give a
much more decided effect than a few spikes or
trusses of each. At no time have I seen the effect
of masses better than in the exhibit of Mr.
Ladhams at the Southampton show. The flowers
shown were the following: Heuchera sanguinea,
Pyrethrums Mont Blanc, Sherlock, single crimson,
and Hamlet, single pink, Acjuilegia chrysantha,
Hemerocallis Middendorfiana, Mertensia virginiea,
Iris Mme. Chereau, Erigeron aurantiacum, Cam-
panula glomerata dahurica, Achillea mongolica
and grand spikes of DictamnusFraxinella. — E. M.

Odontadenia speciosa. — This bold and
striking scandent shrub, probably best known
under the name of Dipladenia Harrisi, is now in
fine bloom in one of the stove houses at the Bir-
mingham Botanic Gardens at Edgbaston. This,
which appears to be the only species in cultiva-
tion, is planted out at the end of one of the houses,
the shoots being trained along the rafters ; the
flowers, produced in large cymes, are bright yellow
in colour, shaded with orange, large, stout, of
fine form and delicately scented. It was intro-
duced from Trinidad in 1854. It is so interesting
and handsome a plant, that one wonders it is not
more frequently met with. — R. D.

Varcouveria hexandra. — It would be diffi-
cult to find a more graceful hardy plant than this,
which has all the elegance and beauty of Maiden-
hair Fern, and is a gem for the rock garden to
associate with some bright flowering plant. A
mass of it is luxuriant in the rock garden at Kew,
and it is also flowering prettily as well, the
flowers white, on slender branched spikes, much
like those of an Epimedium. For its leaf beauty,
however, it is most noteworthy, and it is easy to
grow in free, moist soil with full exposure,
planted at the base of a large rock with a cool,
northern aspect. It runs freely underground
and may be readily increased by division.

Poppy Prince of Orange.— This is a very-
fine variety of the Oriental Poppy, with flowers of
a lighter orange-scarlet shade than those of the
type. A fine group of it is in flower at Syon
House, and the plants being seedlings show some
slight variations, some of them having the
characteristic black spot at the base of the petals,
whilst in others it is entirely absent. These giant
Puppies have a fine effect when boldly grouped,
especially in association with shrubs. Mr. Wythes
also finds them useful cut flowers for large vases,
and if cut just as the buds are bursting, the flowers
open in the house and last longer than when they
expand upon the plant.

Arundo conspicua.— In answer to Mr. E.
Burrell (page 360) lam glad to be able to say that,
in my garden in South Devon, Arundo conspicua
has been uninjured by the late winter, although left
totally unprotected. Berberis Darwini, close by,
has been badly injured, quite three parts having
to be cut away in the spring. Bambusa aurea
and B. vindi-glaucescens, beyond looking a little
brown at present, have passed through the ordeal
scatheless, but Fatsia japonica has lost most of its
upper leaves, which gives it an untidy look, and its
decorative appearance will not be regained until
the young shoots, now breaking strongly, have
fully developed their foliage. I find that
Zauschneria californica is dead, but there are no
losses among the Montbretias or plants of Gypso-
phila paniculata. — S. W. F.

Crinum crassifolium. — In the Cambridge
Botanic Garden this superb species, for which we
are indebted to the liberality of M. Van Tubergen,
is now finely in flower. It is growing at the foot
of a south wall where it has had no protection
during the past winter, and is a little earlier in
bloom than C. capense. The flowers are white

within, suffused with pink on the outside, and
strike one as forming a very compact umbel.
Seven out of nine are open and in good condition
at the same time. The leaves of this plant are
each about 2 feet 6 inches long and 3 inches broad,
deep green, not glaucous, and darker than those
of C. Moorei. The peduncle is erect, stout and
about2Uincheslong. Theflowers, shorter than those
of C. capense, are well formed, the tube green,
about 3 inches in length, segments about as
long, oblong in shape and sharp-pointed, Mr.
Baker in his "Handbook of the Amaryllideas "
places this under C. variabile, but it is not said
whether the plants are identical. Both names
were applied by Herbert. At the time of writing
Mr. Baker believed that this plant was no longer
in cultivation. Fortunately we have it now. It
without doubt is unsurpassed in beauty among the
kinds which can be grown out-of-doors, and, more-
over, it possesses a charming perfume. It is a
native of Cape Colony. — R. I. Lynch.

Iii3»s. — I send herewith a small gathering of
Beardless Irises (I. apogon). That marked No. 1
is undoubtedly I. Douglasiana. It reached me
from a sure source, and, moreover, it appears to
correspond exactly to Mr. Baker's description of
that species. I have, however, here another very
remaikable and distinct Iris, as to the botanical
identity of which I should like to have had your
opinion, but, unluckily, the dry weather has
withered the last bloom beyond recognition. I
purchased this also as I. Douglasiana, and it is
identical with an Iris I had here some years ago
from a separate source under the same name. The
growth and habit of the latter plant is entirely
different from No. 1, being much dwarfer and
less vigorous. The flower, too, is totally distinct,
the pale pink or lilac colour being almost, if not
entirely absent, while the standards are horizon-
tal and level with the falls, giving the flower a
star-like appearance. It may possibly be I.
Bexeheyana, or the Santa Cruz variety of I.
Douglasiana, but it is certainly strangely like the
Iris described as I. bracteata by Herr Max
Leichtlin in The Garden of the week before last
(p. 354), only I have never knowingly succeeded
in making I. bracteata grow here, though I
have bought it two or three times. No. 2
is one of the most beautiful of all Irises,
I. tridentata. No. 3 (sold to me as I. setosa) is
no doubt I. versicolor, and No. 4 is its var. ,
I. v. virginiea, usually sold as I. virginiea.
No. 5 is a poor Iris —I. ensata. Nos. 6, 7, and 8
I grow as I. humilis, I. graminea, and I. pris-
matica respectively. Perhaps you may detect
differences. I cannot do so myself. No. 9 is the
var. orientalis of I. sibirica, usually sold as I.
orientalis. No. 10 I had as I. coriacea. No. 11
was also sold to me as I. prismatica. I see little
difference in any of these three latter, except that
the first, No. 9, is the finest and most vigorous
plant. No. 12 is the white var. of I. sibirica. I.
longipetala and I. missouriensis (one of the most
lovely of all Irises) are over. I. hexagona and I.
Grant Duffi have not bloomed. There is no Iris
in my garden at this minute more beautiful than
I. pseudacorus and its variegated var., which has
yellow flowers with rather darker markings. I.
aurea, I. Monnieri, I. orientalis (or ochroleuca),
and the K.tmpferi vars. are to come. Many of the
germanica sorts are flowering badly this year. —
J. C. L.

EBEMURUS ROBUSTUS AND H.EMAN-

THUS KALBREYERI.
We send you flower-spikes of the above two
plants. Eremurus robustus is by no means new
nor of recent introduction. To my knowledge
it has been cultivated for the last 15 years, but
for some reason or another it has till now reimirieJ
a plant of little popularity. It is a noble plant
and ought to be one of the most prominent hardy
perennials. With a little protection of some
litter during the winter it proves perfectly hardy,
and has withstood the extreme and long-lasting
cold of last winter without the least injury and
never before produced a spike of flowers of such

403

THE GARDEN

[June 8, 1895.

fine dimension?. The culture of this plant is
very easy, as proved by the fact that a good
strong plant once planted in the border will
flower for several years in succession, after which
it will take a rest for a season or two, producing a
fine head of foliage only. It requires a rich soil,
and when planting the hole ought to be suffi-
ciently large to allow of at least 1 foot of rich
stable manure to be placed at the bottom, taking
care though in planting not to place the roots
direct upon the manure, but let that first be
covered with a layer of soil. After once planted,
this plant ought to be left undisturbed for years,
when it will bloom better year after year. As the
big fleshy roots are yearly seeking fresh nutriment
it will be found very beneficial to give every spring
a good top dressing, and whilst growing, a good
watering two or three times a week will help the
plants on considerably. Almost any good rich
soil will do to grow them in, but avoid peat or
leaf-mould, which is rather too porous. We flower
E. robustus every year, but we have never seen
here nor anywhere else a spike of such unusual
dimensions. The whole length of the spike, from
the base to the tip of the inflorescence, measures
7 feet S inches, of which the flowering portion
occupies at the time of cutting the spike some 3
fest 9 inches, with about 420 flowers and buds on
the spike.

H.-umanthus Kalbreyeri, introduced into com-
merce some fourteen years ago, is one of the finest
species known, producing umbels as much as 9
inches across, consisting of some 50 to 100 pretty,
graceful spider like blooms of a rich scarlet.
The foliage is of a handsome lively green, and
even out of bloom this plant is very ornamental
for the greater part of the summer. Bulbs the
size of a walnut will readily flower. Itcan easily
be propagated by division after having bloomed,
potting it in a good sandy loam with a slight ad-
dition of leaf-mould or peat, provided with a good
and free drainage to avoid any stagnation of
water, of which this plant requires a plentiful
supply whilst growing. Towards the autumn
when the foliage begins to turn yellow the bulbs
must be allowed gradually to get into a dry state,
when they will winter without any danger in any
temj erate greenhouse provided they are kept free
from blackbeetles, mice, or other destructive
pests. When about February they begin to show
signs of vegetation, they will require a little
water, which after being repotted must be gradu-
ally increased as the growth proceeds, and for the
rest treat the same as other Amaryllids.— Louis
van Hottte, Ghent

*„* A noble and robust spike of Eremurus.
We have had them as tall in England, but we
think not so robust. — En.

The weather in "West Herts.— During May

there occurred only six unseasonably cold days,
but a good many moderately cold nights. On as
many as eleven days the highest temperature in
shade exceeded 70°, and on three of these 75°,
the maximum reading for a seasonable May being
about 00°. On the hottest day of all the tempera-
ture rose to 83°, which is the highest reading re-
corded here in May during the ten years over
which my observations extend. In London 86°
was registered by Mr. G. J. Symons, F.R.S., who
says, " This has been the hottest May day for
twenty-seven years, and the hottest but one for
thirty-seven years." At no time did the exposed
thermometer show more than 4° of frost. During
the past month the temperature of the soil at 2
feet deep rose from 51° to 60°, and at 1 foot deep
from 53° to 65°. Taking the month as a whole
the ground was warmer than in any of the nine
previous Mays, with the exception of that of 1S93,
when the readings were considerably higher.
Rain fell on only five days and to the aggregate
depth c f but half an inch, which is more than
H inches below the mean for the month. Al-
though the Berkhamsted rainfall tables reach
back to 1856, there is no previous instance of a
May quite as dry as this. In May, 1884, the fall
of rain was, however, nearly as light. No rain at
all has come through the light soil percolation

gauge since the middle of (May, but the drainage
through the heavier soil did not entirely cease
until twelve days later. On May 30 the atmo-
sphere was so dry at 3 o'clock in the afternoon,
that the difference between the readings of the
dry and wet bulb thermometers amounted to as
much as 21°. May was a remarkably sunny
month. On no fewer than fifteen days the sun
shone brightly for over ten hours, and on four of
these for over thirteen hours. In fact, this was
not only the sunniest May of the past ten years,
but during that period there has been only one
other month when the average daily duration has
exceeded it, and that was in July of the Jubilee
year. A large bush of the wild Dog Rose grow-
ing in my garden came into blossom on May 30,
or on the same day as last year, but six days
earlier than its average date of flowering in the
previous nine years. I cut my first Tea Rose
(Souvenir d'un Ami) from the open ground on
the 4th inst. , which is ten days in advance of the
nine years mean. — E. M., BerkhamsUd.

Public Gardens.

New open space for Woolwich. — Her Royal
Highness Princess Louise, Duchess of Fife, who
was accompanied by the Duke of Fife, lately
opened St. Mary's Churchyard, Woolwich, as a
recreation ground for the public. The church-
yard is about 4 acres in extent, and a donation of
£1200 to enable it to be laid out as a place of
public resort was given by Mr. J. Passmore
Edwards. The Metropolitan Public Gardens
Association have tastefully carried out the work,
and the new open space will undoubtedly be a
great boon to a populous locality. The Earl of
Meath, in explaining the objects of the Associa-
tion and its connection with the laying out of the
ground, stated that the present was the eighty-
first space that it had been instrumental in open-
ing to the public, the extent of ground laid out
being about 120 acres, representing a cost of some
£40,000. The Association had likewise planted
thousands of trees throughout the metropolis, and
it had work in hand on six grounds at the present
moment.

Opening of Bethnal Green Gardens.— It
is doubtful if any open space in London was
bought for the public 200 years ago, except that
at Bethnal Green, which was formally opened
yesterday by Mr. J. S. Fletcher, J. P., chairman
of the Parks Committee of the London County
Council. Two hundred and five years ago, when
Bethnal Green woods was a favourite hunting re-
sort of the citizens of London, Lady Wentworth
(the then owner of the manor of Stepney) was
anxious to let certain portions of the land for
building, but several of the "nobility and gentry "
who then dwelt in the "hamlett of Bethnoll
Green " were equally anxious to prevent any in-
cursion of the forerunner of the jerry-builder, and
they bought for £200 some 15 acres of land and
set it apart for public uses. On a portion of the
land so acciuired Bethnal Green Museum and gar-
dens are now situated, and the remaining portion
was purchased from the trustees by the London
County Council for £8000, or some forty times its
value 2110 years ago. This portion, which com-
prises (i^ acres, has been tastefully laid out as a
public garden, with a gymnasium attached for
children.

The Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund. — At

a meeting of the committee held on the 31st ult.
at the Horticultural Club, Mr. William Marshall
presiding, the secretary announced that the late
Mr. George Taber, senior partner in the firm of
Messrs. Cooper, Taber and Co., seed merchants,
Southwaik Street, had bequeathed as a legacy to
the firm four twenty-five pound shares in the com-
pany. The following special donations were
announced : Mr. John Wills, 16, Onslow Crescent,
S.W., the fifth annual birthday gift of £10 10s.,
with an intimation that for the next five years the
sum would be increased to twenty guineas ; from

Messrs. J. Waterer and Co., Bagshot Nurseries,
£10; proceeds of a concert at the Shackleford
Institute, near Oodalming, per Mr. G. P. Baskett,
£8 ; and from Mr. W. Evans, Wharfedale,
Leeds, 5s.

Royal Horticultural Society.— The n xt

fruit and floral meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society will be held in the Drill Hall, James Street,
Victoria Street, Westminster, on Tuesday next,
June 11, at 3 p m. A lecture will be given by Mr.
Frank Canton " Rose Culture under Glass." The
president of the society will also present the
Veitchian Memorial medals to Mr. James Bate-
man, Mr. F. W. Moore and M. Victor Lemoine, of
Nancy. — J. W.

The Birmingham Botanic and Horti-
cultural Society. -A very interesting cerermny
took place at the Botanic Gardens, Edgbaston. on
the 29th ult., it being the occasion of opening
the new alpine garden, and which is to be known
as the Hugh Nettlefold Alpine Garden, it being
dedicated to the memory of this gentleman. The
opening ceremony was performed by Mr. Geo. II.
Kenriek, chairman of the Improvements sub-
committee, who are in charge of a scheme which
commenced with a considerable extension of the
exhibition hall last year, and is intended to in-
clude among other things the lighting of the
houses and terrace by means of electricity, and
the institution of a system of popular botanical
and horticultural lectures. As it was the first
day of the Pansy and Viola show there was a con-
siderable attendance of subscribers and others.
In constructing the garden 250 tons of millstone
grit from Yorkshire were used, in masses varying
up to five tons, and it covers an area of neai ly
half an acre. The water supply is natural, due
to two springs which were tapped in the progress
of the work ; attached is a bog garden. Owing
to the exceptionally dry season, the planting is
by no means complete, many subjects being left
over until the autumn. The work was com-
menced in October last.

Obituary.

Mr. Robert Henderson. — This skilful gar-
dener, we are sorry to hear, has passed away at
the age of seventy-one years. Of recent years he
has lived in retirement, but visitors to the historic
grounds of Fulham Palace will remember him
with kindly feelings. He was gardener to the
late Bishop Jackson, having previously served
under him when Bishop of Lincoln — altogether a
period of thirty-four years. Mr. Henderson loved
well the many fine and interesting trees in the
Fulham Palace grounds, and we have recol-
lections of pleasant visits in his company to this
suburban retreat, which showed in many ways
how thoroughly he understood his work. He was
buried at Fulham on Wednesday last in the pre-
sence of a gathering of old friends.

Names of plants.— It. B. — The Oak Currant'

A gall produced by Cynips quercus pedunculi.

John Falconer. — Remarkably fine forms, but we do

not think they are worth varietal names. 67. B. It.

— 1, Spiraea Reevesiana; 2, Bemerocallis flava ; .'?,

Spiraea Bumalda ; 4, next week. J. C. L. — Pa^onia

mollis. Daniim. — Stanhupea eburnea. J. Cran-
ston.— 1, Spergula arvensis ; 2, Mercurialis perennis.

S.N. T. — 1, Sileue alpestris ; 2,Caraganatriflorus;

3, Saxifraga Hirculus; 4, Agrostemma coronaria ; ">,

Rolystichum aculeatum ; 6, Collomia eoccinea.

Blisters. — Looks like the leaf of one of the Vriesias.

Please send a flower. Vine leaves query next week.

W. J. P — 1, Clematis, cauuot undertake to name
varieties, there are so mauy ; 2, Cassandra calyculata ;
3, Cerasus serotina ; 4, send in flower ; 5, Herniaria
glabra ; 6, Sedum Sieboldi type and variegated variety.

E.P.Anderson. — Rhododendron catawbiense var.,

or a hybrid with that species largely predominatiog.

The Wild Garden: or, the Naturalisation and Natwl
Grouping of Hardy Exotic Plants, with a chapter on the Garden
of British Wild Flowers. Fourth edition, with wood engrari^f s
from drawings by Alfred Parsons, revised and enlarged. Ie>y
8vo, linen cloth. Price 12*. ; well bound in half morocco, 18«
Through all booksellers.

THE GARDEN

409

No. 7230. SATURDAY, June 15,1895. Vol. XLVII.

"This Is an Art
Which does mend Nature : change It rather ; bnt
The Akt itself is Nature."— Bhakapmre.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

THE BEST EARLY PEACH.

Which is the best early Peach ] is a constantly
recurring question. Hitherto I have recom-
mended either Early Alexander or Waterloo,
being of opinion that they are practically iden-
tical. I did not arrive at this conclusion with-
out giving a fair trial to what I had supplied to
me from different sources, but even then am by
no means certain that Alexander had not been
sent to me in the place of Waterloo, the latter
being the later of the two introduced from
America. When Early Alexander was becoming
popular I ordered two trees of it from a well-
known firm of nurserymen, planting one in an
early house and the other in a successional com-
partment. Both trees grew satisfactorily, but
imagine my disgust when that in the early house
proved to be Alexandra Noblesse, a comparatively
late variety, while that in the successional
compartment turned out to be Crimson Galaude.
Whether or not the two American varieties are
distinct, they are superior to anything in the
way of early Peaches raised in this country.
Early Beatrice is nearly or quite as early in
ripening, but as far as appearance goes is poor
compared with Early Alexander or Waterloo,
and 1 do not admit its superiority in point of
flavour. From a market grower's point of view
neither Early Beatrice, Early Leopold, nor Early
Alfred are worth house room, and as a private
gardener I would only recommend them for pot
culture where variety hath its charms. Early
Rivers might have been a formidable rival to
Early Alexander if only three parts or more of
the fruit could be prevented from splitting from
the base upwards. I have repeatedly tried fer-
tilising the flowers of this variety with the pollen
of Bellegarde, Royal George and other free-
setters, but cannot say much was gained by this
experiment, the stones splitting very much as in
former years. What few fruits were sound at-
tained to a great size and perfection, those well
exposed to the light being very prettily
coloured.

The one great fault of the American varieties,
and to which attention has been repeatedly
drawn in these pages, is the proneness of
the trees to casting their flower buds prema-
turely. It happens under such very different
conditions and under treatment that an-
swered remarkably well in the case of other
early and second early varieties, that it cannot
well be attributed to faulty culture. When,
therefore, a variety is forthcoming possessing
the best qualities of Early Alexander and
Waterloo without their one great defect, this
ought to be welcomed and generally grown.
In Amsden June we apparently have this im-
proved variety, which, although sent us from
America soon after the others above-named,
has not made much headway. Mr. G. Wythes,
of Syon Gardens, has brought the great value of
this variety into prominence, and, thanks to
his efforts, a first-class certificate was gained
for it from the fruit committee of the Royal
Horticultural Society in the spring of 1893.
The tree from which the fruit was gathered
was planted in the Syon Gardens in November,
1890, and now occupies a roof area of about 20
feet square. In May, 1892, seven dozen fine

fruits were gathered from it, and in April,
1893, nine dozen fruits were had, gathering
commencing as early as April 12. This season
there were fifteen dozen left on the tree and
the gathering commenced on April 20. Seeing
that all the fruits were moderately large and
highly coloured, ripening, too, when such fine
Peaches were worth probably £3 per dozen in
the market, it must be conceded that this is
the market grower's Peach. I made particular
inquiries as to the bud-dropping, and found
that Mr. Wythes has not been troubled with this
failing in his tree either during this or any
previous season. The quality is considered
decidedly good, but of this I am unable to
speak from experience, although I heartily wish
that my half dozen trees of Early Alexander
could be transformed into Amsden June before
next season.

Descriptions of, and opinions upon, the
merits of Amsden June vary considerably,
and this, again, points to want of care on the
part of nurserymen. Some of them may think
they are supplying the genuine article, but may
have been misled themselves. In the " Fruit
Manual " Amsden— presumably meant for Ams-
den June — is described very favourably, but the
fruit is said to part freely from its stone.
Other authorities either describe it as shy-
bearing or else ignore it altogether, while some
private growers of my acquaintance speak of a
perceptible bitterness in the taste. What Mr.
Wythes is growing is neither a freestone nor
a clingstone, but something between the two.
Not till the fruits are fully ripe does it
separate freely from the stone, while there is
no bitterness of flavour to complain of any more
than there is in the other early Peaches. Will
some impartial American authority on Peaches
help us in clearing up the distinctness, or other-
wise, of the three American varieties I have
named, their relative values also being given ?
From Mr. Wythes's standpoint very much valu-
able house and wall space in this country is
wasted on the shy-bearing Early Alexander
and Waterloo that would be far more profitably
devoted to the sure-bearing Amsden June —
similar to what he is cultivating.

W. Iggulden.

Peach Early York. — This is one of the very
best of forcing Peaches, and worthy of a place in
all early houses. It is not quite so large as some
other varieties, but its free setting and cropping
qualities, combined with excellence of flavour,
atone for this. It is grown in several gardens in
this neighbourhood, and always gives the greatest
satisfaction. The short time it takes from com-
mencing the second swelling until the fruit
is ripe is astonishing, being very little be-
hind the American varieties in this respect.
Should any reader be thinking of adding another
sort to his early or second early house, let him
give Early York a trial, and he will not regret it.
I have seldom known a tree of this Peach to give
any trouble by bud dropping when started. —
J. C.

Grafts on Pear walls.— In hot situations on
walls Pear grafts often do indifferently, many fail-
ing altogether. This is not to be wondered at, as
the scions, as yet un-united and having only the
small quantity of stored-up sap to support them,
become literally baked up. This may in a great
measure be prevented by daily syringings, which
keep the clay from cracking badly and admitting
the air. I always cover the clay with Moss, tying
the same securely by means of matting or soft
twine, thus further aiding in preserving the clay
in a moist condition. -C.

Apple Earl.— This is one of the most useful
Apples grown in this district, young t ees after
once commencing to bear doing so almost every
year. The fruit, though larger, is not unlike

Normanton Wonder in appearance, and although
fit for use in October will keep sound and sweet
till March. It cooks beautifully, and is a de-
licious sauce Apple. This Apple is known in this
neighbourhood' under another and purely local
name, but I have found that the correct name is
Earl. Market growers intending planting for
profit would do well to give this Apple a trial, as
if as free and good generally speaking as it is
hereabouts, it certainly would be worthy of ex-
tensive culture. Outwardly it is of a beautiful
golden colour, the flesh being white in the ex-
treme.— J. C.

Strawberries for forcing.—" W." (page 365)
questions if any variety of Strawberry has given a
better return than Noble. I think if he were to
try Royal Sovereign and Noble under precisely
similar conditions he would find the former the
more satisfactory both in weight of crop, earliness
of ripening and flavour. Royal Sovereign has
proved this year to have an even more robust habit
than Noble, which surpasses all other varieties in
this respect.— S. W. F.

APPLES FOR CIDER OR MARKET.
In some parts of the west of England there is
every prospect of a heavy crop of cider Apples,
which is not altogether a blessing, for when this
class of fruit is very plentiful, farmers and others,
after making all the cider they consider requisite
for their own requirements, desire to sell the re-
mainder of their Apples either to cider manufac-
turers or to other farmers who have been less
fortunate with their crops, but owing to abun-
dant supplies the price is so low that it scarcely
pays for the labour and expense of picking,
measuring, and carting. Some years ago the
crop of cider Apples was so great that tons
actually rotted on the ground, or were eaten by
cattle and pigs. Unfortunately, many of the
orchards are planted with varieties of Apples that
are utterly useless for any purposes other than
for cider, as they will neither bake, boil, nor stew ;
consequently if the demand for this fruit is in-
different or bad, they are of no value except for a
purpose which I think they are useful— in making
a certain dye ; the demand, however, is only very
limited. There can be no doubt that it would be
to the interest of planters of cider Apple trees if
they selected those varieties that are valuable for
their cider-making qualities, and also for market in
seasons when it will pay best to dispose of them
for cooking purposes. There are many sorts
combining both those desirable elements^ and
when the best samples will realise from 7s. to
12s. per cwt. there is no question as to the wis-
dom of consigning them to market. Not only so,
but all the small or damaged fruit can be
utilised for cider, thus avoiding any waste and
making the most of the crop possible. In some
of our standard orchards we have a fair lot of the
variety named Kingston Black, which is con-
sidered in the west one of the best cider Apples
known, the liquor being of a superior flavour ;
therefore the demand for this sort is usually very
good, but for years I have sent all the largest
fruit to market, as it realises a good price through
its very deep red colour, fair size, and handsome
appearance added to its excellence for cooking.
Cherry Pearmain is another cider sort of repute.
It cooks well, is fair for dessert, a nice size and
the trees when on good soil are enormous bearers ;
in fact there are many varieties of Apples far
from being so profitable as this one. Hereford-
shire Beaufin is frequently employed for cider
making, though usually catalogued as a culinary
variety, and should be more extensively planted
by those who are anxious to have cider and market
fruit from the same trees. The fruit is rather
flat, highly coloured and produced in great abund-
ance. Another advantage is its excellent keeping
qualities. I have had it perfectly sound and phin.p
at the end of May. Cowarne Red and New
Redstreak are both very handsome cider Apples,
also useful for market, as they cook well and com-
bine a pleasing appearance with heavy cropping

410

THE GARDEN

[June 15, 1895.

powers. No doubt there are other varieties equally
as well adapted for cider or market, but the sorts
named have proved the most suitable with me, and
I would suggest to any growers owning all or any of
the varieties mentioned theapplication of a thorough
soaking of liquid manure in a diluted form several
timeB this summer if possible. Why I recommend
this application now is that the effect will be
practically immediate in its action, and will cause
the fruit to swell to a large size, whereas chemical
manures would be much slower in operating
unless washed down to the roots by rain or water-
ing. While not recommending the planting of
cider Apples for market work alone, I can speak
from experience how well they repay the grower
for cultural attention and a liberal diet provided
for their roots, as the fruit attains a size that en-
tirely alters its appearance, so much so, that old
men who had known the varieties all their lives,
have been unable to recognise them.

W. G. C.

A grand Nectarine tree.— In the garden
at Gunnersbury House is to be seen one of the
most perfect trees imaginable of Nectarine Lord
Napier. It has a house wholly devoted to it, at
any rate as far as the roof is concerned, and it is to
be regretted that this is not considerably larger
than it is. The tree covers a roof area 24 feet by
13 feet, and apparently is equal to attaining much
larger dimensions. It was planted in October,
1878, in a comparatively shallow inside border,
this being only 2 feet deep exclusive of drainage.
The stem is about 5 feet high, and I need hardly
add stout and cleanly grown, while the branches
and head generally are remarkably well balanced.
When growing very strongly the fruit buds were
shed rather freely by the stronger and medium
sized wood, and Mr. Hudson took good care of the
spray accordingly, as it was this that gave plenty
of very fine fruit. Latterly all the wood bears
abundantly, and a more even set of fruit could not
well be had. Last summer Mr. Hudson gathered
600 fruits from the tree ; this year there will not
be so many, but the crop yet appears very heavy.
Nearly all are on the upper side where they will
colour beautifully, and, as a rule, the Nectarines
obtained from this tree are of such a size and colour
as to be nearly all equal to taking a prize at first-
class fruit shows. — I.

Apple Fearn's Pippin.— We seldom hear or
read of this admirable Apple, which leads one to
imagine that it is not very extensively grown. So
far, however, as certainty in cropping, appearance
and quality are concerned, I know of few dessert
Apples that can surpass it ; indeed, I always look
upon Fearn's Pippin as being a miniature Blen-
heim. In appearance it is very similar to that
variety, and fruit from the south side of espalier
trees colours up most beautifully. It is a fairly
good keeper and tells well on the exhibition table.
I have grown Fearn's Pippin for a good many
years and do not remember once being without a
crop. It may be as well to state that our soil is
rather light and warm. — J. C.

Summer pruning1 of Currants and Goose-
berries.—These trees well repay a little timely at-
tention during this month (June) in the way of
pruning useless lateral growth and giving the
fruit and wood required for extension room to de-
velop ard ripen. Currant trees push out a lot of
side or lateral growth. Those which proceed from
the main branches and are strong should now
be stopped at the sixth leaf. Any growths
which break away afterwards should be
stopped at the first leaf or joint, as if allowed to
grow away they soon crowd up the main shoots
and are a prey to aphides and the fruits get dirty,
cleansing when in a ripe state being a difficult
operation. When the trees have made a liberal
growth it is an easy matter to top the main shoots
if infested with fly and burn them. By cutting away
the tops much of the aphis is removed. Voung trees
which are required to make a good growth want
different treatment, and as it is not well to top too
early in their case, I would advise dipping in
tobacco water, quassia or other insecticide. One

thorough dipping will often clear the entmy.
These trees it very dirty well repay syringing all
over, as I notice when crippled in their early
stages they rarely make clean healthy growths in
successive Eeasons. Drought will be answerable
for many trees being infested with aphis in light
soils, and in such a mulch of manure will go a long
way in keeping the trees clean. The same remarks
aPP'y to Gooseberries, as the trees may now be well
lightened of superabundant wood and the fruits
much assisted, as by removal of useless lateral
growth the main shoots are much strengthened —
an important point with weak growers, and by
using the knife now there is less sucker growth later
on, or when severe winter pruning is practised.
Red spider is the worst pest in seasons of drought.
Quassia extract is the best preventive used freely
in the evening, and if the lateral growths or those
not required for extension are removed, the fruits
are finer and the trees can be kept much cleaner.
— G. Wythes.

Shading- newly-lifted Vines.— I think it is
a capital plan, and a safe one, too, in cases where
old Vines were lifted in autumn to slightly shade
the roof glass the following spring, especially if
the house is modern and has a sharp pitch,
as the Vines often flag in hot, sunny weather until
thoroughly established. One lot of Vines came
under my notice this season that were lifted last
autumn, some fresh material being added to the
border and the roots laid in nearer the surface.
They broke well in February and grew very
strongly, but as soon as hot sun came upon them
down they went, not having apparently quite
established themselves. This flagging continued
for a fortnight in spite of syringings two or three
times a day, and although they do not now flag
they are much affected with spider. This, no
doubt, was encouraged by the strain put upon
them during the flagging period. A slight shade
thrown over the glass for a time would, I think,
have prevented this. — J. C.

BLISTERS ON VINE LEAVES.

Would you be good enough to state through the
columns of The Garden what causes the rough-
ness on the back of the enclosed Vine leaves ? —
Blister.

\* I fail to discover anything very seriously
wrong with the Vine leaves submitted by "Blis-
ter." To all appearances the rusty spots or small
excrescences on the under-side of the leaves
are the result, first, of the maintenance of an
over-moist atmosphere, followed by a sudden
rush of cold, dry air. When this treatment —
that is to say, a faulty system of ventilation — is
continued, the excrescences take the form of
warts, and in this case the leaves are seriously
injured, failing more or less to perform their
functions. The leaves sent are not badly af-
fected and may recover to a more healthy con-
dition. It is just possible the damage to the
leaves may have been caused by sulphur on the
hot-water pipes or by fumigating with tobacco
paper, but I am inclined to believe it is faulty
ventilation. It is not such a great amount of air
that is needed all during the growing period, as
many growers would seem to think. We have
had a period of very hot weather, the amount of
sunshine and heat registered in May more nearly
approaching what we might reasonably anticipate
later, or say in July. All the same, there are
hundreds of vineries where as yet no front air
has been admitted, and that, too, without detri-
ment to the crops, but rather contrariwise. When
there is an undue delay in opening the top ven-
tilators the sun's rays cause the temperature in
the nearly or quite closed houses to be raised very
considerably and suddenly, and the way out of this
difficulty that occurs to many is to admit front air
very freely, in addition to opening wide the top ven-
tilators. A rush of colder air naturally follows and
in its wake various ills, not the least among which
is the much-to-be dreaded mildew, also scalding,
chills (considered by Mr. A. F. Barron one causo
of shanking of berries), red spider attacks, rust

on the berries, warts on the leaves, " spot," and
such like. If by any chance those in charge of a
vinery are caught napping, and this may easily
happen in the case of those having multifarious
duties, there should be no sudden lowering of
temperatures. Instead of setting the house wide
open, admit the cooler outside air more gradually,
and, in particular, guard against a rush through
the front ventilators. Better open thedoorwajs
at the warmest ends than set wide open the front
lights, especially when the wind is in the east.
The worst attack of mildew I ever had to con-
tend with was easily traceable to an assistant
taking upon himself to open wide the front lights
on a bright day in May. At that time they had
not been previously opened, and to make matters
worse, the wind was in the east and the vinery
fully exposed to the full blast of this. What
"Blister" and all other Grape growers should
aim at is early ventilation, and if this is properly
carried out it will be found that injuriously high
temperatures will be prevented without setting
all the ventilators wide open, while not unfre-
quently little or no front air need be given till
the colouring period has arrived. Those who
have well studied this question of early versus
reckless late ventilation can tell by the soft,
genial air of a vinery on entering whether or not
the ventilation had commenced as early as it
ought to have done. It may be asked, how early
ought a house to be opened? and this I will
anticipate. During still, warm nights a chink of
top air may well be put on at 10 p.m., and this be
further increased directly the sun strikes full on
the house in the morning, or if somewhat clouded,
rather before the temperature of the house has
risen to the height considered right for the day. A
little heat in the hot-water pipes is most desir-
able. The aim should be to be ahead rather than
behind with the ventilating, and if this plan is
adopted very much less air need be admitted dur-
ing the hottest part of the day than is needed
where ventilation commences too late. So much
importance does one very successful grower of
Grapes attach to this early opening of the houses,
that those in charge have frequently to open the
top ventilators as early as 5 o'clock in the morn-
ing, the vineries in. this case being span-roofed,
and running from north to south, stand high, and
get the full benefit of the morning sun. — W. I.

Apple Golden Spire. — An Apple that will
crop heavily year after year is worthy of the notice
of all interested in Apple culture, for, as repeatedly
stated in The Garden, we have such a host of
practically useless sorts, that any varieties of good
quality, profuse in bearing powers and hardy
should be brought to the front and their merits
placed before intending planters. As a culinary
Apple, in season from the beginning of September
to the end of November, no variety that I hava
grown will surpass Golden Spire. With the ex-
ception of one year, well remembered by fruit
growers for the severe frost about May 20, this
variety has not failed to produce a very heavy
crop of large and beautiful golden fruit, which r.o
doubt, combined with the conical shape of the
Apple, was the means of giving it such an appro-
priate name. We have many trees in bush,
cordon and standard form, and in every case they
are remarkable for their prolific habit — in fact,
grown as a cordon, no variety is so reliable, the
fruit annually setting so freely that a large amount
of thinning has to be done, many of the trusses
having as many as ten perfect fruit on each truss.
Anyone intending to plant only one or two trees,
or perhaps as many hundreds, ought to give
Golden Spire a trial, and I feel sure they will not
be disappointed in the results. As a market
Apple I have always found it sell freely at good
prices, leaving other varieties like Keswick Codlin,
Lord Grosvenor, and Lord Suffield some distance
behind in value, and a long way behind in the
yield of fruit per tree. Although we have had
heavy crops of Golden Spire the last two years,
the same trees this season are more thickly sei
with fruit than ever, proving again the variety's
freedom and the immense value of feeding the

June 15, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

411

trees so liberally with plant food that they are
not exhausted with bearing a full crop, but suf-
ficiently strong to continue doing so every year
unless prevented by very bad climatic conditions.
— W. G. C.

Strawberry plants killed by grubs (F.
Hand).— Your Strawberry beds are badly infested
with Melolontha vulgaris, the grub of the cock-
chafer or May bug. The female lays eggs a few
inches below the surface in small heaps in one
special spot until close upon a hundred have been
deposited, the eggs being oval and of a yellowish
colour. These are hatched in a fortnight, and
when the larva' are full-sized they subsist upon the
roots of various plants. Are your Strawberries
planted in recently turned-up turfed land? as if so,
the grubs would have been in the soil previous to
the Strawberries being planted, and would feed
upon the young plants at this season, as they re-
main in the earth till spring. The best remedies
are the following, but you will find winter the best
time to get rid of them. When the ground can
be turned up roughly and scarified, birds, espe-
cially starlings, readily devour the grubs. By
using gas-lime freely, digging in deeply, the
grubs can be got rid, but of course it is well to
allow sometime to elapse before cropping if much
lime is used. I would advise you to thoroughly
work your Boil ; crop it with a quick-growing
green crop and dig it in. — G. W.

Orchids.

SMALL COLLECTIONS OF ORCHIDS.

The increasing number of small collections of
Orchids springing up in all directions, not only
in the vicinity of large towns, but even in country
villages, augurs well for a continuance of the
popularity of this favourite class of plants. The
frequent auction sales in London have done
much towards furnishing these small collections,
and most provincial nurserymen now include a
few of the better-known kinds in. their stock.
An occasional sale in a provincial town of plants
from a well-known firm has, I know, given a
great impetus to Orchid growing in its locality,
and the frequent references to Orchids in
the press cause inquiries to be made about them.
The interest taken in the plants by this class of
cultivators is evinced by the nature of the
queries that come to hand from time to time
respecting their culture, and with a view to aid
these beginners in their choice these few lines
are penned. The most successful amateur cul-
tivators will be those who, in forming their
collections, keep to a few of the best known
and easiest grown kinds, selecting them to suit
the house they are to be grown in. Thus it is
no use trying to grow Dendrobiums and Odonto-
glossmns under similar conditions, though both
are easily grown and essentially Orchids for be-
ginners if arranged in a suitable structure and
temperature. If only one house is devoted to
their culture I would advise keeping this at a
temperature suitable for Cattley as, or a minimum
winter temperature of 50°, allowing it to rise in
summer to 115° by fire heat, running up to 78" or
80° when the sun is bright. In this temperature
it is possible to grow a great variety of Orchids,
including some of the most beautiful and dis-
tinct kinds in existence, by a little forethought
and care in arrangement, and if an ordinary
garden frame can bedevoted to them in summer,
the cool section of Odontoglossums, Oncidiums
and other favourite genera may be included.
In a house of this description Cattleyas are
a host in themselves, keeping up a suc-
cession of gorgeous flowers the whole year
through. Dendrobiums of many beautiful
species may also be included, the evergreen
section being chosen as far as possible, and

leaving out those that require the strongest
heat. There are no Orchids that produce a
better flowering return for the room they take
up than the latter, and their culture, as noted
from time to time in The Garden, is of the
simplest description. If there are shady cor-
ners to be filled up there are many less inter-
esting Orchids than Cypripediums, and some of
the most free-flowering kinds in the genus do
well in a Cattleya house temperature. Coelogyne
cristata, too, is more satisfactory if well shaded,
and this is perhaps the most useful Orchid in
cultivation. Oncidiums are a very interesting
class of plants, which cannot fail to be satisfac-
tory under ordinary conditions of culture,
their chief requirements being a suitable root-
ing medium for the various species. The Mar-
shallianum and macranthum sections are best
grouped with the Odontoglots during the sum-
mer, but the crispum, Forbesi, and even flexuo-
sum varieties are better for a little more heat.
The most frequent cause of failure with all
Oncidiums is allowing the flower.3 to remain on
too long. The scores of beautiful flowers pro-
duced on the long elegant racemes command
the admiration of all, and one is loth to curtail
their beauty, but if allowed to remain too long,
they drain the very life of the plants away, and
more havoc is done by one season's overflower-
ing than can be mended by years of judicious
culture. The same rule holds good to a certain
extent with Odontoglossums, and here again
for a like reason. These and Lycastes, with a
few of the better-known Masdevallias, are often
seen in, and very suitable for, the small collections
referred to. In short, there is no lack of beau-
tiful and easily grown species, and in contrast
to the high prices now obtained for novel and
unique hybrids is the very cheap rate at which
these can be obtained. L.

Cattleya Schilleriana.— This fine old Catt-
leya appears to be doing much better this season,
for I have recently noticed it in fine form in several
collections. It varies considerably in the colour
of its flowers. It does not appear to have been
imported in any large quantities, although it first
flowered in the late Count Schiller's collection as
far back as 1857. In appearance the growth of
this plant much resembles that of C. Aclandu-e,
the bulbs attaining a height of from 5 inches
to 6 inches, the leaves deep green above and
purplish beneath. It is very rarely that more
than a couple of blooms are produced upon a
peduncle, and these are usually of a purplish
brown on the sepals and petals, with dark spots.
The lip is crimson -purple, sometimes striped with
a deeper shade, and having a yellow disc. The
flowers appear during the summer from the young
growths. — W. H. G.

Cypripedium philippinense (syn., C. lae-
vigatum) is now in bloom with Messrs. Lewis and
Co., of Southgate. This charming little species
was introduced through Messrs. Veitch, of Chel-
sea, about thirty years ago. It grows naturally
in one of the hottest parts of the globe, therefore
requires plenty of heat under cultivation to grow
it to perfection ; in fact, it should be placed
amongst other Orchids which come from the West
Indies and which require as much heat as is
allowed in the culture of these plants. It pro-
duces three and four blooms upon an erect scape.
The flowers, very pretty and graceful, have a
white, pointed dorsal sepal, regularly striped with
purplish brown ; the petals pendulous, narrow
and slightly twisted, measuring about 6 inches in
length, yellow at the base, changing to a purplish
colour, and fringed with blackish hairs. The lip
is helmet-shaped, yellowish buff and slightly
striped with pale brown. This has proved a valu-
able kind during recent years to the hybridist, as
many of our choice seedlings have this species as a
parent. Amongst them may be mentioned C.
eelligerum and its varieties, C. Vipani, C. bur-

fordense, C. Bryanianum and many others. It is
also closely allied to C. Ro?belinianum, which was
discovered by Mr. Sander's collector in the same
locality and which many authorities regard as
synonymous ; butC. Rccbelinianum has straighter
petals and mostly striped with brown, the scape
more hairy and the foliage much narrower. —
W. H. G.

ONCIDIUMS.

There is a wondrous diversity in this very ex-
tensive genus, and yet the characteristics are
so strongly marked, that one cannot fail to recog-
nise them at a glance. They are all evergreen
Orchids of great beauty, and inhabit various
parts of South America. Some are large-grow-
ing and gross-feeding plants; otl ers are tiny,
delicate and close-growing species. The majority
have pseudo-bulbs, but there is a section— as
represented by 0. Lanceanum and O. Cavendish-
ianum — that are peculiar in these being absent,
the plant consisting of large showy leaves upon
a thick, hard rhizome. With plants differing so
much in habit, varying modes of culture are
naturally required, as Oncidiums, of all Orchids,
cannot in this way he treated collectively. It
would take up far too much space to treat at
all serviceably of half the species that are
worthy, but it may be useful to note a few of
the best varieties and species that usually flower
at this season. One of the most magnificent
Oncidiums in cultivation is

O. ampliatum MAJTJS, the flowers of which are
just now beginning to fade after having been open
for seven weeks. This superb kind has laige,
roundish, compressed pseudo bulbs, bearing very
thick and leatherv foliage. The flower-scapes are
produced from the bases of the newly-ripened
pseudo-bulb, and frequently attain a length of 36
inches. Upon these the flowers are plentifully
produced, and they are very bright yellow, with
a few brownish red spots on the sepals. Being a
native of Costa Rica, this plant enjoys a high tem-
perature, exposure to sunlight early in the after-
noon, and a moderately moist atmosphere while
growing. It may be grown on blocks or in shallow
baskets in good peat fibre and Sphagnum, but in
all cases care must be taken to ensure a free
passage for the water, keeping the plants high
and fixing them very firmly. The typical O.
ampliatum is not so strong-growing or large-
flowering as this variety, but is nevertheless a
very fine Orchid.

O. coscoloe is a small, compact -growing
Orchid, and one of the most beautiful cool house
kinds. It is found growing naturally high up on
the mountains in Brazil, and thrives well in shal-
low wood baskets or suspended pans. The pseudo-
bulbs are usually about lj- inches high, and bear
a pair of short green leaves. From the base of
these the graceful pendent racemes are produced,
and the blossoms are of that clear shade of bright
yellow that is so attractive in Oncidiums. The
treatment often advised for Odontoglossums nf the
cooler section suits this species well, and if kept
free from insects and in good condition at the
root it never fails to flower freely. It is one of
the most frequently exhibited Orchids, excellent
for grouping.

O cuktum seems to have been brought from
Brazil in 1846, and thrives in more heat than
the last-named kind, being most satisfactory in
the Cattleya house. It is very impatient of close-
ness at the root, and for this reason must have a
thin layer of compost only. The pseudo-bulbs
occur on wire-like rhizomes, and the flower-spikes
are erect and dense. Each blossom measures
about 1| inches across, and is yellow, with reddish
brown spots.

0 flexuosum is a very common Orchid, but
one of the most useful and beautiful kinds in cul-
tivation. For cutting there is hardly another
species to compare with it, as the spikes, owing
to their light, graceful appearance, can hardly be
wrongly placet), working up well for all purposes.

412

THE GARDEN

rJuNB 15, 1895.

This is usually grown too cool to get the best re-
sults and in too close a compost. Grown in a
shady part of the Cattleya house in Sphagnum
Moss and charcoal alone, it makes a wonderful
growth, the spikes being very long and plentifully
produced, as many as four from one pseudo-bulb
not being at all uncommon. The flowers are too
well known to need description and the plant is a
native of Brazil, whence it was introduced early
in the present century. The variety majus is
larger than the type and the flowers more freely
spotted.

O. Gardneri is a very fine species of the cris-
pum set, and very like O. Forbesi in general out-
line. The colour is bright yellow and brown, the
latter predominating on the sepals and petals,
the lip beautifully margined with the same colour.
This may be grown in a cool, airy part of the Catt-
leya house, suspended near a ventilator if possible,
on a trellised raft, with a little peat fibre and
Sphagnum. Introduced from the Organ Mountains,
in Brazil.

O. Papilio and O. Kramerianum may be
bracketed as far as treatment is concerned, they
being simple varieties of the same species, though
perfectly distinct. The latter is the deeper
coloured form, and both are remarkable for the
striking resemblance they bear to a butterfly.
They thrive best in a strong, moist heat and re-
quire very little compost about their roots. Sphag-
num Moss being the chief ingredient. The wiry
peduncles rise from the base of the pseudo-bulbs
and bear one flower at a time, these being pro-
duced at intervals all through the summer and
early autumn. The frequent flowering ultimately
weakens the spikes, as shown by the smaller
blossoms produced ; and when this is observed the
old spikes should be cut off, when fresh vigorous
ones will soon form. O. Papilio and its varieties
are natives of the West Indies and have long been
cultivated in this country, having been introduced
in 1S23.

There are several other species now in flower,
but these will suffice for the present, and other
deserving kinds will be noted as they come into
bloom. r

DENDROBIUM FALCONERI.
This has been grown in our gardens for about
forty years, and was at one time frequently
seen at our large exhibitions. This year at the
Temple show it was only represented by a
single example, which was included in the
collection staged by Mr. James Cypher, of
Cheltenham. This plant was both well grown
and well flowered. D. Falconeri succeeds best
when grown upon a block of wood or attached
to a piece of Tree Fern stem, and as it is a
native of Northern India, coming from Assam,
Bhotan, and the Khasia districts, where it
grows at less than 4000 feet altitude, it will
succeed best when placed close to the glass in
the East India house, and where it should be
liberally supplied with water during the grow-
ing season. After the growths are finished a
slightly cooler temperature and less moisture
will suffice, but care should be taken that the
plants do not suffer from drought during this
resting period. This fine Dendrobe produces
long slender pendulous stems, which are
knotted at short intervals, and carry a few
small leaves upon the new growths. The bulbs
emit roots along nearly their whole length,
which gives the plant a curious appearance.
The flowers, which appear singly from the leaf-
less stems, each measure between 2 inches and
3 inches in diameter, the sepals and petals
white, faintly flushed with rose, the tip of each
being blotched with rich purple ; the lip is also
white, with a large central maroon blotch, a
bright yellow spot on each side, and the tip
purple as in the sepals and petals. It seems to
have first appeared amongst a batch of mixed
Orchids from fndia, but since it has been im-

ported in quantity some distinct varieties have
come to hand, the best being

D. Falconeri giganteum, which in every way
resembles the typical form, but produces larger
and stouter pseudo-bulbs. The blooms are up-
wards of 5 inches in diameter, of better sub-
stance, and deeper in colour. This form, I be-
lieve, first appeared in Messrs. Veitch's nursery at
Chelsea.

D. Falconeri almdulum first flowered in the
gardens of Mr. H. Elliott, of Clapton, several
years ago. It has blooms entirely white, except
a slight tinge of rose at the tip of each segment.
There also appears to be what is known as a
blunt-petalled variety, which only differs from
the typical form in having the petals quite oval
instead of tapering to a point. This is a free-
flowering and very desirable kind, as its blooms
open during the months of May and June, and
will continue in perfection for about a fortnight.
W. H. G.

NOTES ON PHAL.-ENOPSIDS.
Nothing could have suited these lovely Orchids
better than the tropical weather of the last few
weeks, the plants growing most freely in the
atmosphere, quickened, so to speak, by the action
of the sun. Moisture in abundance, both at the
root and in the atmosphere, has been necessary,
but this is easily applied and can hardly be over-
done just now. This quick growth is just what
is required now, and the plants will rapidly pick
up all they lost by the long cold winter. On dull,
miscy mornings, which are precursory to hot days,
the ventilators and even the doors may be left open
without the least fear, as this causes a natural
rise in the temperature instead of an upward rush
as the sun reaches the house. All tropical Orchids
delight in this, and none more so than Phaltenop-
sids. If a Dendrobium or similar plant grows too
quickly and with a want of solidity, it is com-
paratively easy to remedy this by exposure in
autumn, but this will not do for the Orchids
under notice. The growth must be consolidated
as it is made, and if this is the case it does not
matter how rapid the progress iB. Ventilate
freely then in early morning and keep closer and
shaded in the middle of the day when the outside
temperature is high and the atmosphere parched.
A little more ventilation just before closing time
may be given and the blinds drawn up about an
hour before the sun leaves the house. Plants that
were repotted about six weeks ago are now root-
ing freely in the new compost. These require an
increased supply of moisture at the root, and
those showing flower-spikes are very carefully
watched and the number of flowers restricted as
they become visible. The strong-growing kinds
are watered almost daily and occasionally lightly
dewed with soft tepid water. P. Luddemanniana
is doing well in small wood baskets, the charming
blossoms, so delicately spotted with violet and
purple, being now on the wane. Several young
plants of this species are now in a 3 inch pot,
whence they are to be transferred to small
baskets. Never allow insects to gain the least
foothold on the plants, as sponging, unless verv
carefully done, is very injurious by puncturing or
bruising the foliage. For this reason soft water
must always be used, as the hard water leaves a
deposit on the leaves that requires some force to
remove, and is, in the case of water from a chalky
soil, injurious to the roots. If the temperature
can be kept up to about 60e without fire-heat this
need not be used at night, but on dull days a
little warmth must be kept in the pipes to admit
of ventilation and prevent any check to the
plants. jj

Lrelia majalis.— I was glad to see "G."
giving the foremost place among the Mexican
species to this superb kind, which is quite worthy
of all the praise he bestows upon it. That it is
difficult to flower I can hardly agree with, as no
Orchid flowers more constantly with me. The
only thing necessary is a thorough ripening of the
pseudo-bulbs, and the best way to do this is to

place the plants in the open air as soon as the
growth is finished. If anyone who finds a diffi-
culty in flowering it treats it in this way, other
conditions being suitable, there need be no fear of
the result. A plant in a 5-inch pan here has borne
three twin-flowered scapes this season, although
it flowered twice last year owing to a slight
error in management. I quite agree with "G."
that this and, in fact, all the species he names
greatly dislike disturbance at the root, and for
this reason repotting must be very carefully done.

ORCHIDS ON FERN WALLS.
There are often many unsightly places in
Orchid houses that puzzle those in charge to
cover so as to make them look bright. Ferns and
various fine-foliaged plants, such as Begonias
of the Rex type, Tradescantias and othets, are
usually the plants selected, but a very welcome
addition to this may be hadby using afew Orchids
of suitable kinds. For these it is obvious
something in the way of special preparation is
needed, and if a little care is given to this, very
pretty effects may be produced. I once had
occasion to cover the back wall of an Odonto-
glossum house, the owner wish ing to try the ex peri-
ment of growing Orchids in conjunction with
Ferns, and although I must confess I was rather
doubtful of success, the results were much better
than I anticipated. The wall in question was 9
feet high, and there was a narrow border that .
had been used for Roses running parallel with
it. This was taken out to a depth of 18 inches
and 15 inches of rough potsherds and broken
bricks substituted, and as the soil was of a light
gravelly nature, this formed an efficient drainage.
An undulating line of rockwork was placed on
this, the upper portion being planted with Pteris
tremula, P. serrulata and Adiantum capillus-
Veneris. The bays left were filled with a rough
mixture consisting of loam, turfy peat, Sphag-
num, and potsherds, and in this were planted
some pieces of Cypripedium insigne out of 8-inch
and 9-inch pots. The plants were not kept
on the level, but raised a few inches, the com-
post being banked round them, and the small
green Tradescantia was allowed to run over
this. The upper portion of the wall was wired
with netting (2-inch mesh) and the Ferns planted
in the usual way. Some suitably shaped pieces
of cork were arranged in various positions to
form receptacles for the Orchids, and the
Ferns encouraged to hide this as far as
practicable. Ccelogyne cristata and Onci-
dium macranthum were the Orchids principally
used, with a few crowns of Disa grandiflora
near the bottom. All these did well, but On-
cidium Marshallianum was a failure. The
pockets of cork were filled with the usual com-
post, especial care being taken to provide good
drainage, and as the Cuelogyne outgrew its
station the Ferns had to give way. There is
possibly nothing new in this mode of growing
Orchids and Ferns in conjunction, but I men-
tion it that those who may be similarly placed
may try the experiment in confidence. Pos-
sibly many other species would be suitable, and
doubtless very pretty effects may be produced
in a warm house where Cypripediums in variety
may be used at the base, these Orchids having a
very natural and striking appearance when
viewed from above. Some growers may be in-
clined to favour brackets in similar positions
to the cork pockets, placing the plants thereon
when in flower, and in that way beautiful effects
can be obtained — infactarein more than one well-
known nursery, to say nothing of private es-
tablishments, but the plants can never have the
same easy, graceful appearance as they have
when growing in the natural manner alluded to
above. R.

June 15, 1895.1

THE GARDEN

413

Stove and Greenhouse.

WATER LILY HOUSES.

The engraving of the little Water Lily house at
Castlewellan, Co. Down, is from a photograph
specially taken for The Garden by the Countess
of Annesley. The house itself is really a warm
plant stove, having a tank for the Nymphieas,
fringed with velvety-leaved Aroids and feathery
Palms. The water in the tank is refreshed by
the spray of a fountain, that also makes soft
and pleasing music as it drops among the leaves
and flowers. As so grown, the new and beau-
tiful hybrid Nymphfeas of M. Latour-Marliac
are nearly evergreen and almost perpetual in
their bloom — white, rose, crimson and soft yel-
low. The waxy and, in some cases, sweetly
odorous blossoms open morning after morning

shades of rose and pale yellow, white, and even
dark crimson. M. Latour-Marliac's best seed-
lings and hybrids are exceedingly robust and
beautiful, and they enable us to obtain some-
what of the effects of tropical Water Lilies in
the open air, and even in cold water ponds or
pools. Mr. Greenwood Pim, of Moukstown,
who formerly had no water garden, overcame
the difficulty by simply making a concrete
tank of irregular outline and 18 inches deep in
an open, sunny portion of his garden. It is in
full sunshine and its margins are rock-fringed ;
thus a suitable position for many interesting
alpine and bog plants is also obtained. In this
little sheet of water only a few yards square
there is just now quite a profusion of flowers,
mostly of good forms of N. alba, but five or six
of Marliac's rosy crimson land sulphur-flowered
hybrids are also there, and probably now in
bloom. In this sun-warmed water the common

A Water Lily house at Castlewellan. Engraved for The Garden from a
photograph sent by the Countess of Annesley.

or evening after evening for at least six or eight
months of the year. Beautiful and fresh and
sweet always are these delicately modelled
flowers, especially as seen in happy association
with rarest of Palms and Ferns and the most
delicate of foliage plants, for at Castlewellan
the artist and the gardener work in unison.
There are more than one or two ways of growing
the choicest of hardy Water Lilies, however,
but the advantage of a glass house is that the
blooms are earlier and fresher, and a view of
them is more easily obtainable at close quarters
than when they float in the deep water of an
open-air pond or pool.

Formerly we were confined to very few hardy
Nymphieas, and these mainly the white and
rose-tinted forms of N. alba, but of recent years
— thanks to collectors and hybridisers — we have
at least twenty good hardy kinds of nearly all

white Water Lily blooms at least eight to ten
days earlier that it does in deeper water, and
there is the advantage of being able to look at,
or to gather the ivory blooms without the
slightest inconvenience. Thus at a cost of a
few shillings for cement and other materials,
and a clever labourer, anyone can make a
pretty and practical tank for these most ex-
quisite of flowers.

Wherever there are tanks indoors in warm
plant houses the tropical species are readily
grown. At Kew for years the tank in the old
Victoria house has been jewelled with Nym-
phieas and other aquatics, and the same is true
at the Oxford and Cambridge Botanic Gardens
and at Regent's Park. At Birmingham, where
they have just inaugurated a very beautiful
new rock, alpine and bog garden in memory of
the late Mr. Hugh Nettbfold, there is a project

for a new and improved house for aquatic
plants, and those who have had the privilege of
visiting Baroda House at Kensington have
been delighted by the Water Lily gardens
under glass that are there to be seen. The ad-
vantage of a glass-roofed tank is the longer
season of blossoming that it enables one to en-
joy, and even the most tender of tropical
species, such as Victoria, Euryale, and Nelum-
bium, may be grown for six or eight months of
the year minus any heating apparatus except
that of the sunshine itself. At Daisy Hill,
Newry, Mr. Smith has a very simple and
efficient span-roofed house for Water Lilies,
Sarracenias, Darlingtonias, and other fly-catch-
ing plants that is always a pleasure to see. It
is simply a span-rooted house with a central walk,
the tanks being about 18 inches deep, close up
to the level of the eaves, and occupying all the
remaining space. Here all the forms of N.
Marliacea, N. Leydekeri, N. odorata, N. pyg-
mjea, and N. Helveola grow and bloom in the
prettiest possible way. Early in May N. Ley-
dekeri opened its deep rosy-crimson petals, and
one or other of M. Marliac's seedlings and the
wild species will produce flowers in profusion
until the waning days of autumn, after which
the tanks can be covered with boards, and then
become a shelter for other things.

Here in the College Gardens our first flowers
did not open this year until June, and then N.
alba, N. pygmrea, N. Leydekeri, N. Chroma-
tella, and N. carnea all raced each other for pre-
cedence. This pond is about 4 feet deep, and
is fed with cold water from the Dodder River,
and for six weeks last winter it was covered with
ice often to a depth of 8 inches, and yet neither
Water Lily nor gold fish, of which there are
some hundreds, suffered the slightest injuiy.
The illustration only shows the indoor phase of
Water Lily beauty at Castlewellan, for these
flowers are largely grown there in open-air lakes
and ponds as well as under glass, and there is
every prospect of that noble demesne becoming
as famous for its water plants and water-side
vegetation as it now is for its magnificent
trees, shrubs, and wall climbers, amongst which
last may be mentioned some fine examples of
Vitis Coigneti, one of the handsomest of foliage
plants from Japan. The Earl of Annesley has
long grown this noble species of Vitis, and
many plant lovers are deeply indebted to him
for his liberality in sharing with them his
choicest rarities. F. W. Burbidge.

Stig-mqphyllon ciliatum.— This has very
appropriately received the common name of
Golden Vine. It is a stove climbing shrub, a
native of Tropical America, of somewhat tall
growth, the shoots of which are trained horizon-
tally under the roof of the large Water Lily
house at the Birmingham Botanic Gardens. The
flowers are yellow, three to six in an umbel, and
curiously clawed. It appears to bloom freely,
and is just now an object of considerable interest.
A figure of this plant was given in The Garden*
for Feb. 25, 1888, p. 170.— R. D.

Flowering Cacti. — For the last few years
Messrs. Veitch have identified themselves with a
very free-flowering race of Phyllocacti, and most
years some members of this section are recognised
by the Royal Horticultural or Botanic Societies,
while a small group of flowering examples is now
regarded as one of the features of the Temple
show. This year one variety — Excellent — re-
ceived an award of merit. It is very distinct, the
colour of the flower being a kind of warm orange-
salmon, shading off to red towards the margins.
Other varieties particularly noticeable were
Agatha, soft pink ; Brilliant, vivid scarlet ; Row-
ena, bright crimson ; Gordonianus, pink ; Jessica,
rose ; and a beautiful white flower, which was
without a name, but it seemed to be mucu '-'

414

THE GARDEN.

[June 15, 18i)5.

Cecilia. Well worthy of a place among tho most
select of this group is the variety J. T. Peacock,
which is a form of the old P. speciosissimus, itself
such a favourite with our forefathers. The strik-
ing violet lustre which overspreads the petals is
in J. T. Peacock much more pronounced than in
the older form, and few flowers have so brilliant
a colouring. These different Phyllocacti are of
very easy culture, for given an ordinary green-
house anyone may succeed with them. A soil
principally composed of loam with an admixture of
sand and brickmakers' ballast or sandstone rubble
will suit them perfectly. Over-watering must be
especially guarded against, for though they may be
kept pretty moist during the summer months,
yet at the dull period of the year from their suc-
culent nature they will stand a good while with-
out water. A light, sunny spot in the greenhouse
is also essential to their well-doing, for upon the
thorough ripening of the wood resulting from full
exposure to sunshine and careful watering during
the dull season depends to a great extent the
future display of bloom. Propagation of this
class of Cacti is readily effected, for if a piece is
broken off, potted, placed on a shelf in the green-
house, and watered occasionally, it may be de-
pended upon to root. The better class of flower-
ing Cacti are, I think, increasing in popularity,
and to the amateur with but little time (and that
of an intermittent nature) to attend to them,
they possess a great advantage over many other
classes of plants. — H. P.

Gloxinias. — Judging by what has already been
seen this season, there seems to be danger lest
raisers of these flowers should make the same
mistake that has been made with Begonias — that
is, in seeking for such huge flowers. This rage
in the Begonia bids fair to destroy that flower in
popular estimation. The Gloxinia has blooms
large enough for any purpose. Larger flowers
will look coarse. We have almost everything that
can be desired in habit and in freedom of flowering.
We have, too, excellent size and form in the
flowers. The chief need is in greater variety of
colours and markings, and specially the introduc-
tion of more soft, refined hues, also in making
the flowers stout and of the best form. Beautiful
as are the forms having defined edges, it is pos-
sible to render them in that direction too formal.
Generally self-coloured flowers are best. — D.

PLANTING OUT CALLAS.
We often read how successful some cultivators
are with these plants who rely upon planting out.
Doubtless much of the success is due to attention
after planting, careful lifting in the autumn and
other cultural details. So far I have secured the
best results by a combination of the two methods
usually adopted, and find I get much earlier
flowers by potting and plunging the pots well over
the rims during the growing season. When the
plants are housed in the winter the pots are full
of roots, and they flower much sooner than lifted
plants, which have to make their new roots before
they flower, a check being unavoidable when
potting up. It may be urged that plants with a
mass of healthy roots soon make new growth, but
as the potting does not take place till September
— often later in open weather — growth at that
season is not so rapid as earlier, and I find it im-
possible to do the work, no matter how carefully
lifted, without loss of some leaves and roots. The
earlier these flowers are produced in the winter
months the more valuable they are. At Christ-
mas Calla flowers are most useful in room or church
decoration, and they are none too plentiful at that
season if the plants are potted up late, as even if
forced they do not flower freely and give small
blooms. With a deficiency of large flowers in
mid-winter the Calla is one of our most useful
plants, as five or six blooms in a large vase with
a few leaves is an effective arrangement that lasts
a long time in perfection. My mode of culture
to obtain early blooms is simple, and may be in-
teresting to those who grow these plants. At
the end of June we turn all old- flowering plants
out of their pots, tho plants having been rested

for a short time in the open by giving them less
water. Each plant is divided, removing side or
sucker growths, selecting the largest pieces, as
these are the most valuable, and the next size for
succession. The small ones are not often re-
quired, as the plants increase so rapidly. Each
plant is potted singly and firmly in good loam,
bone-meal, and either spent Mushroom manure or
leaf-mould, well watered and plunged, covering
the rims in trenches or deep drills for convenience
of watering the plants during growth. As the
new leaves push up towards August liquid manure
is given freely and the plants watered overhead in
the evening daily as they increase in growth.
They are housed in September, and given more
warmth early in November, they flower fresly when
placed in a temperature of 55° to 60° certainly
better than when grown in the old way.

G. W. M.

Vallota purpurea in flower. — We are so

accustomed to see Vallota purpurea flowering to-
wards the end of the summer or early in the
autumn that blossoms of this showy bulbous
plant during the month of May appear somewhat
out of place. Such a result is, however, fre-
quently attained now-a-days, not from any forc-
ing or particular treatment that has been brought
to bear upon them, but owing to the fact that
great numbers are now sent to this country every
year from their South African home, and they
reach here totally dormant about the months of
July or August, when if they are at once potted
and kept slightly moist they continue to root
throughout the winter, and on the return of
spring the foliage is pushed up in a very vigorous
fashion, and many of them will then flower. This
precocious habit is only noticeable the first sea-
son, as the following year, though perhaps a few
of them will bloom rather earlier than the normal
season, in the majority of cases there is little
difference. These imported bulbs need very
careful treatment for a year or two, as they
do not readily become established. The most
critical period I find is the second winter that
they pass in this country. During the first one
they are, of course, quite dormant. They do
not yield so good a type of flower as the old-
fashioned form, so long cultivated in gardens, for
the flower-stem is much longer, the flowers as a
rule more star-like, while many of them are poor
in colour. Flowers of a distinct salmon shade
sometimes crop up among imported bulbs, and
a white variety is spoken of, but it has never
been my fortune to meet with this. — H. P.

New Fuchsias.— The Fuchsias distributed by
that well-known raiser, Mr. Lye, are character-
ised by a great prof usion of, in most cases, medium-
sized symmetrical-shaped blossoms, but though
these varieties are well known in the south and
west, they are not so generally met with in other
parts of the country. I am not aware if Mr. Lye
has sent out many new forms within the last four
or five years, but the bulk of the novelties come
from the Continent, and large blooms with, in
many cases, an ^ungainly habit of growth form
their most prominent feature. Nearly all the
new forms from the Continentare double-flowered,
and though opinions may differ as to which are
the more beautiful, the majority would, I think,
be in favour of the single flowers. The double-
flowered varieties consist of in many cases a huge
corolla and sepals far too short to form a propor-
tionate flower, while they are often disposed in a
horizontal manner instead of being reflexed, as in
most of the old single varieties. As Fuchsias are
so readily raised from seed, it is somewhat singu-
lar that they are not more often increased in this
way, for with a little care in saving the seed some
good flowers can be counted upon, while at times
curious forms crop up, and a very desirable new
variety may also appear. — H. P.

Pelargoniums in London.— A great deal of
the beauty of a Pelargonium consists in the foliage
being retained in good condition till the flowering
season, for if bare of leaves at the base, a plant,
however fine the flowers may be, loses a good deal

of its attractiveness. A considerable amount of
care and attention is necessary to grow these
plants at their best, and the atmospheric surround-
ings play a very important part in the matter.
So pronounced is this that it is now quite im-
possible to grow Pelargoniums as near London as
they could be grown a few years ago. This
remark applies also to other classes of plants,
hence our market growers, who well recognise the
value of a pure atmosphere, push farther and
farther from the metropolis. In addition to the
Pelargoniums the Bouvardias are a class of plants
greatly injured by the smoke of London. The
difficulty is not of course during the summer
months, but in the autumn and winter when fogs
prevail. At that season the plants are in a state
of semi-darkness for days together, and that in
conjunction with a sulphur-laden atmosphere will
cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. In this
way I have seen a house of plants reduced from a
flourishing state to little more than bare stems
within a week. A free circulation of air is very
necessary to the welfare of the Pelargonium, and
so apparent is this that I have seen plants even in
the summer lose a great many of their leaves after
being packed up for a day or two and sent on a
journey. — H. P.

PLANTS AT GUNNERSBURY HOUSE.

Scented Pelargoniums are remarkably well
grown by Mr. Hudson at Gunnersbury House. One
set of above a dozen plants, which have taken from
four to six years to grow, are now each fully
6 feet through, and stand nearly as much in height.
They are in neat, durable, circular tubs 17 inches
across and the same in depth. These tubs are
well pitched inside, a precaution that ought
always to be taken, while outside they are oak-
grained, and the bands and handles painted black.
These charming old-fashioned, yet uncommon
plants, as grown at Gunnersbury House, are really
serviceable, as a few weeks' or months' service in
their owner's town house and grounds appears to
benefit them rather than otherwise. The species
or varieties that lend themselves most readily to
this form of culture are quercifolium, or the Oak-
leaved variety ; the old Pheasant's Foot (radula
major), which is Citron scented ; filicifolium odora-
tum, and capitatum, this latter having Rose-
scented foliage. In addition to these fine globular
trained specimens Mr. Hudson has also grown
someremarkablyfinescreen plants which are unique
in their way. The variety selected for this method
of training is radula major, and the plants of this
are 6 feet high and over 8 feet through. They are in
tubs similar to those already described, and
according as the plants extend, a semi-circular
width of trellis-work is added. I also saw a
number of half specimens not only of the varieties
named, but also of quercifolium minor, Rollisson's
Unique, scarlet unique, denticulatummajus, Pretty
Polly, fragrans or nutmeg scented ; Fair Ellen,
and Little Gem, all of which have scented foliage
and in some instances attractive flowers. The
soil used is Banstead loam and leaf soil, sulphate
of ammonia being given as a manure when the
pots are well filled with roots. All are cool green-
house plants.

Trained sweet-scented Verbenas are appropriate
companions for sweet-scented Pelargoniums, and
of these there are a series of standards at Gun-
nersbury House that reflect the greatest credit on
the grower. They were struck four years ago,
and are grown with a clear stem, the heads being
trained in the form of shields, urns, and such
like. Trained Marguerites (Chrysanthemum fru-
tescens varieties) were also fine, these likewise
being intended for the town house. They were
struck in January, 18114, and are now perfect
globular specimens 6 feet through. These are in
terra-cotta vases, and are already flowering
grandly. Young plants are constantly being
brought forward to take the place of the older
ones, the former producing the finest flowers in
the greatest profusion. They are kept free of the
much-to-be-dreaded leaf-mining maggots by means
of Richard's vapouriser, of which Mr. Hudson has

June 15, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

415

formed a very high opinion. Yet another old-
fashioned plant that is here grown to perfection
principally for town hou9e and garden decoration
is the small or Box-leaved Myrtle. These plants
naturally assume a free pyramidal form, and are
about i feet in height. They are flowered twice
in the year. When I saw them in May all the
points of the growth made last season were full
of flower-buds, and the second crop ot bloom will
be had next autumn from the current year's
growth. The plants were layered rather more
than four years ago. They are most ornamental,
and suitable for lawn, drive, and terrace decora-
tion. W. I.

of striking colour ; robustum, orange-yellow,
spotted with crimson ; sanguineum, deep red ;
Van Houttei, crimson, flamed with apricot,
and spotted with black ; Wallacei, spotted
orange-red ; and Wilsoni, of a rich apricot tint,
and one of the latest to flower.

Flower Garden.

LILIUM ELEGANS.

This lovely Lily, so varied in form, colour, and
stature, is an early flowering species, and its
several varieties could be used in the garden in
a variety of pretty ways, perhaps the best of

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.
Violas are undoubtedly at the present time fur-
nishing a brighter display than any other dwarf-
flowering plant, and this despite the fact that
from the commencement of flowering to the
present date (June 7) the weather has certainly
not been of the nature universally regarded as
most conducive to their well-being. They are
altogether immeasurably better than at the same
time in 1803, when a similar dry spring was ex-
perienced ; this, however, may be partly explained
by the heavy rains of last winter and the ground
being comparatively moist close under the sur-
face. Also with the brief flowering season of 1893
always in memory I have since before planting
in autumn dug in a fairly liberal dose of cow

Lilium clegans. From a photograph sent bt/ Miss Willmott, Warley Place, Essex.

all in association with choice dwarf-growing
shrubs. Among low evergreen shrubs or in
little groups in the foreground these Lilies
would And an admirable setting to bring out
their rich colour effect. We should have more
of this blending of flowers and shrubs in our
gardens instead of allowing the shrubs to grow
into a dense, confusing tangle, and setting out
all the flowers in the full glare of the sun in
prim beds and inartistic borders. There are
quite a dozen distinct kinds, some of them
only 1 foot or even less in height, others rang-
ing up to 3 feet or more. They like sunny
situations, and grow well in loamy soil. The
type grows about 1 foot high, and has orange-
red flowers quite 6 iuches across. Alice Wilson
has flowers of a bright lemon-yellow shade
and is very distinct. It was figured in The
Garden of November 8, 3890. Alutaceum
grows about 1 foot high, with flowers of a soft
apricot-yellow shade, and Batemannise, one of
the tallest, has fiue bright apricot flowers.
Other handsome sorts are bicolor, orange-red
flamed with scarlet ; cruentum, deep blood red

manure, a proceeding that would be unnecessary
on stiff land that retains moisture well, but that
is highly beneficial and, indeed, almost indispens-
able when dealing with our light, dry soil. The
chief drawback experienced in very dry seasons
is the non-retention of colour in all pale shades in
mauve, lavender, and lilac, and also in those
flowers that combine a couple of shades in regular
marking, as, for instance, Duchess of Fife. If
at the present time I were to pick a couple of the
most distinct and the most dissimilar flowers on
Annie King, Lilias, William Niel and Blue Cloud,
it would be hard in either of the four cases to
convince anyone that the two blooms came from
the same bed, except from some special charac-
teristic in the eye, or the shape, or make of flower.
This failure to retain the true colour is rather a
difficulty when one is shading the varieties down
in considerable quantities, but otherwise is in no
way detrimental to the general appearance of the
beds, except that one is not getting for the time
being exactly what they bargained for. The fact
that several new seedlings of the Kintore type
are now being annually produced has suggested
the advisability of classing them alone as, I
believe, bedding Pansies. They are no doubt

capital varieties for large beds, flowering as freely
and with as long-sustained effect as the Violetta
type, although their habit is so different to the
last-named, the power of reproduction by division
into scores of shoots, each with its tiny comple-
ment of roots, being practically absent.

Completion of planting. — Any plants remain-
ing over after the planting of the flower garden
proper can, if they are suitable for the purpose,
be used for filling up bare spots that may exist on
herbaceous borders or for shrubberies that may be
rather thinly planted. A few plants of the large-
leaved and of the Sweet Tobaccos are useful for
such work, and if birds have made havoc of any
rings of Sweet Peas (and it is no uncommon oc-
currence), plants remaining of Canary Creeper and
the variegated Hop can take their place, a very
pretty effect being produced by the pyramids of
flower and foliage. Scented Pelargoniums are al-
ways acceptable, and a few clumps of these are by
no means out of character with the permanent in-
mates of the borders. I also found last year oc-
casional clumps of the Begonia semperflorens
family furnish both in the matter of flower and
foliage an admirable background to masses of
dwarf silvery edgings. Where clumps of bulbs, as
Hyacinths, Daffodils, &c. , exist on herbaceous
borders, the ground will soon be bare of foliage,
and it is advisable if possible to save enough dwarf
stuff in the way of dwarf Petunias and Lobelias,
Mesembryanthemums, &c. , to furnish the same. It
may be noted that when planting anything in the
way of annuals (whether naturally so or which from
their tender constitution have for outdoor work
to be classed as such) on herbaceous borders, it is
always advisable to so regulate such planting that
the temporary plants harmonise with their imme-
diate surroundings. Thus the single small- flowered
annual Sunflower should not find a place beside its
perennial allies, but as a background to, say, early
flowering Phloxes, Lychnis, &c, and the fine-
foliaged Cosmos, which will come early into flower
if planted in good time, may be used to brighten up
a space between clumps of autumn-flowering Star-
worts. A few clumpsof Dahlias, free- flowering Cac-
tus varieties as Fire King, Panthea, and Constance
for choice, will also prove acceptable to fill up gaps
towards the back of borders ; these can be planted
rather close to clumps o early flowering Lilies,
whose flower and foliage are over comparatively
early in the season, causing somewhat unsightly
gaps. Apropos of Lilies, the old candidum is
likelj' to be very fine this season ; the flower-stems
are very strong and vigorous and the foliage as
yet free from disease. Beds that are partially
filled with small Conifera' as dot plants for a carpet
of flower are quite at their best now, the silver
and gold-tipped growths on Thujopsis, Thujas,
Retinosporas and one or two Cupressus being very
pronounced and beautifully clear and fresh. There
are few better dwarf plants to be used in con-
nection with the Conifers; than Violas, and, once
planted, they give no more trouble than the
prompt removal of dying flowers. I have also, in
lieu of the Violas, used a dwarf strain of Antirr-
hinum in crimson, yellow and white shades, and
the effect somewhat later in the season is very
pleasing. The Conifera; should be kept within
bounds by the judicious use of the knife, nothing,
of course, in the way of clipping or shearing, but
the removal of gagged shoots and the shortening
of any that are inclined to go away to the pre-
judice of the plant as a whole, the object being to
keep at once a symmetrical, dense, and yet natural
specimen. In connection with the notes above on
the filling up gaps in herbaceous borders with
the more tender summer-flowering plants I may
add that, as mentioned in the case of Lilies, it is
always advisable to plant comparatively close to
those things whose flowers are quickly over and
that do not retain their foliage ; or if the latter
is retained, it has not a very presentable appear-
ance for the remainder of the season. I like to make
an herbaceous border as natural as possible by
bold and judicious planting, but am by no means
in favour of following Nature to the extent of allow-
ing dead and decaying foliage to remain on the
plants ; indeed, in all cases where such borders

41 G

THE GARDEN

[June 15, 1895.

occupy a prominent position in gardens the prac-
tice could not be tolerated. E. Burrell.
Claremont.

A SELECTION OF ORNAMENTAL
HARDY BORDER PLANTS.

We are frequently asked by readers for lists of
hardy and other plants, and we therefore offer
no excuse for printing the following list, which
contains what we regard as the best of the true
herbaceous plants. Our aim has been to make
a selection of the most reliable hardy flowers
adapted to the soils and situations of gardens
generally. No one can desire less than
ourselves to limit the variety of plants of this
sort, but a great deal depends upon whether
a successful beginning is made in this way,
and the following is a choice selection of
plants upon which growers can depend, and
which can be successfully cultivated in most dis-
tricts. It should be borne in mind that, restricted
as this selection is, there are whole classes of
important hardy plants not included in it— for
example, hardy bulbs, alpine and rock plants,
and, lastly, biennial plants and plants which,
like the Carnation and some of the double
Rockets, require annual division or multiplica-
tion for successful culture.

Chrysanthemum latifolium
maximum

Heuchera sanguinea
Hieracium aurantiacum
Iberis Eempervivens and
vars.
Garrexiana
correa?folia
InuK glandulosa
Iris (rhizomatous kinds in
var., especially Iris
germamca and va-
rieties Bridesmaid,
dalmatica (pallida),
Florentine, Gazelle,
Madame Chereau,
Queen of May, Vic-
torine)
Kniphotia in variety

Pa?onia officinalis and vars.

tenuifolia and fl.-pl.
Pentstemon procerus

barbatus Torreyi
Phlomis Herba-venti

Russelliana
Phlox ovata

canadensis

decussata

paniculata and vars.

divaricata

setacea and vars.
Physalis Alkekengi
Polemonium Kicbardsoni

cosruleum

reptans
Polygonum cuspidatum

Acanthus spinosa
Achillea Ptarmica fl.-pl.
The Pearl
Eupatorium
Millefolium rosea
mongolica
Aconitum Napellus
bicolor
japonicum autumuale
Adonis vernalis
Alstrosmeria aurantiaca
Anemone japonica

Honorine Jobert
Pulsatilla
patens

coronaria, many vars.
alnina
fulgens
Robinsoniana
sylvestris
Antherieum Liliastrum

Liliago major
Aquilegia vulgaris and
vars.
chrysantha
californica alba
coerulea
glandulosa
Stuarti
Armeria cepbalotes

graudinora
Arnebia echioides
Aster Amellus
lrevis
acris

linarifolius
Shorti
turbinellus
versicolor
horizontalis
Novi-Belgii vars.
Bocconia cordate
Brodieea Howelli
Calochortus in var.
Caltba palustris and vars.
Campanula Vau Houttti
nobilie and vars.
celtidifolia
glomerata
dahurica

urticsefolia fl.-pl. alba
carpatica and vars.
grandis
isophylla alba
persicifolia and vars.
Cardamine prateusis fl.-pl.
Centaurea montana and

vars.
Centranthus ruber and

vars.
Cbeiranthus
Chelone (hybrid vara.)

Lathyrus grandiflorus Potentilla bybrida fl.-pl

splendeus vars.

latifolius and white Plumbago Larpenta?

indicnm, good outdoor
kinds
Cimicifuga racemosa
Coreopsis lanceolata

grandiflora
Coronilla varia
Corydalis nobilis
Cypripedium spectabile
Delphiniums in var.
Delphinium belladonna
Dielytra spectabilis
Digitalis (Foxgloves)
Dodecatheon Meadia and

vars.
Doronicums in var.
Echinops Ritro
Epilobium Fleiscberi
angustifolium
album
Epimedium macranthum

superbum
Eremurus robustus
Bungei
himalaicus
Erigeron speciosum
Eryngium alpinnm
amethystinum
Olivierianum
giganteum
planum
Funkia Sieboldi
japonica
grandirlora
Gaillardias in var.
Galega officinalis and var.

alba
Gentiana asclepiadea and
alba
acaulis
Geranium armenum

sanguineum aud vars.
Geum coccineum fl.-pl.

miniatum
Gypsot.hila panioulati
Uelenium autumnale

pumilum
Helianthus decapetalus
lffitiflorus
multiflorus fl.-pl.
rigidus var. Miss Mel-
lish (llarpalium)
Helleborus niger and vara,
orientalis and vars.
colchicus
atro-rubena
Hemerocallisdisticha fl.-pl.
flava
fulva
graminea
Dumortieri

var.

Sibthorpi
Liatris spicata

pycnostachya
Linaria dalmatica

Peloria
Linum perenne and vara.

narbonnense

flavum
Lobelia cardinalis

Queen Victoria
Lupinus polypbyllus and

vars.
Lychnis vespertina fl.-pl.
alba

Viscaria rubra pi.

chalcedonica fl.-pl.

Haageana
Lythrum Salicaria splen-

dena
Malva moschata alba
Meconopsis Wallichi

nepalensis
Mega6ea (Saxifraga)
Micbauxia campanuloides
Monarda didyma

ristulosa and vars.
Oenothera missouriensis

fruticosa

speciosa

tanacetifolia

Youngi
Onosma tauricum
Orobus aurantius

cyaneus

lathyroides!

varios

vernus and vars.
Papaver orientale and vars.

nudicaule vars.

Primula japonica

Sieboldi
Pyrethrum uliginosum

roseum and vars.
Rudheckia Newmani
Ranunculus acris fl.-pl.

aconitifolius fl.-pl.

amplexicauhs
Saxifraga granulata fl.-pl.

(Megasea) ligulataand
vars.

crassifolia

cordifolia and other
vara.

longifolia

pyramidalia
Scabiosa caucasica
Scutellaria alpina and vars.
Sedum spectabile
Senecio pulcher
Sidalcea Candida
Spirtpa palmata

Aruncus (good vars.)

Filipendula fl.-pl.

japonica

venuBta
Statice latifolia,
Symphytum bobemicum

caucasicum
Tiarella cordifolia
Tradescantiavirgiuica vars.
Trollius asiaticus

Fortunei

europaeus and vars.
Veratrum nigrum

album
Terbaseum phlomoides
Chaixi

olympicum
va- Verbena venosa
rious Veronica Candida

Paeonia anenionreflora and corymbosa

vars. longifolia subsessilis

albiflora and many va-
rieties

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.

Umbilicus spinosus. — I wonder if it will be
credited that this is really quite hardy — hardy to
the extent implied by plants fully exposed all the
winter of 1894-95. Generally, I believe, this neat
and curious plant has been considered to need
protection in even ordinary winters, and I have
always made a point of placing it in a frame as
soon as the fogs begin in October. I had, how-
ever, a good stock last year, and I purposely left
out three specimens. All are now in good health,
even one that was badly grazed by slugs in
the autumn. If this succulent sometimes fails
to stand our winters, it is not merely owing to
the cold, for my plants must have several times
had frost on them within 2° of zero.

Aletris farinosa. — In the same very similar
conditions to the above as to aspect, a specimen
of this has much surprised me by coming through
the winter safely ; it is at the base or moister
part of the rockery, and not only is it not hurt,
but it is now throwing up flower-spikes. The
plant is a two-year acclimatised specimen.

Hypericum balearicum. — I never could
keep this even in mild winters. I was induced
to try it repeatedly because I heard from garden

friends how well it did and that it survived the
cold, so on the chance that such a singular and
beautiful species might be coaxed I often tried it,
but it went off at the end of summer. A friend
in Wales told me early this spring that his plants,
though injured, were pretty safe. Many of w,
however, have learnt to put little or no trust in
the appearance of some plants until they have
had the drying winds of March and the brilliant
sunshine of April and May come over them.

Genista Andreana. — This shrub, as supplied
by the trade, is pretty generally killed all over the
country, at least so far as to be of no use for dis-
play this June. I raised some plants a few years
ago from seed, and, as I explained last year in
these columns, but a small percentage came true,
i.e., yielding the partially crimson or mahogany-
coloured flowers. The pan of seedlings in its en-
tirety was planted, with the result that the com-
mon Broom (G. scoparia), the Andreana, are
flourishing and flowering now in a mixed mass.
Now what I want to point to especially is the fact
that this crimson form got from seed is of a
hardier constitution beyond all doubt. There is
not a blackened twig on it, and in the same gar-
den the worked (grafted) specimens are useless,
and many quite killed. I venture to suggest
that either the grafting or the Laburnum stock,
which, I believe, is the one always employed, is
not the best for scions of a variety thus proved to
be otherwise more enduring.

Arenaria Huteri. — The pigmy herbage of
this Sandwort is so dense, compact, and pubes- •
cent as to resemble that of Androsace Wulferi. I
speak of its habit at the flowering time, and its
flowers for the size of the other parts are quite
large, resembling the full-sized pips of a white
Lilac. It is of slow and dense growth, and dur-
ing flowering the specimen is simply a flattened
ball of snowy white bloom. It is quite cold and
damp-proof. My plant has been two winters in
the open.

Spiraea Anthony Waterer.— This is a de-
cided advance on S. Bumalda ; even the as yet
small plants prove the free- flowering habit, as well
as the deeper rosy crimson corymbs of blossom.

1 notice that in the case of every plant there is a
tendency to variegation in the leaves — creamy
white. One more question occurs to my mind
about this Spira?a. Fine as it is, I do not see
much difference between it and a kind I have
grown two years as Spiram Bumalda ruberrima.
Perhaps it will be more just to compare them
when the Anthony Waterer kind grows into
stronger bushes.

Sobolewskia clavata. — This, to those who
have not fully proved its capabilities, may need a
special note — a note of warning, so to speak, in the
way of advising a not too hasty judgment upon it.
It is a crucifer with round, thick clavate leaves.
The flower-spikes run up in slender form quite

2 feet. At first the little white flowers may seem
disappointing ; they are inferior to those of the
common Arabis, but the plant goes on and on
spreading and branching. There is a wonderful
development of lateral florescence and the early
flowers are long- lasting ; the consequence is, you
get a cloud of pure flowers, elegantly posed on
slender stems, which seen at a short or long dis-
tance is most effective. It is in this way only that
I can see any value in this plant for decoration.
I should advise that it be planted in threes or
sixes, though in time the roots, which run some-
what, will make a wide specimen ; but it is time
that means all with this species, for if not seen in
a bold piece the first year I fear many would pull
it out. It certainly deserves a better fate, and
judiciously placed it will do capital service.

Edraianthus serpyllifolius. — Never have I
seen this lovely alpine flower so profusely as this
spring. Plants need to be three years old before
they give a true idea of what they really are,
yet flowers occur the first year from cuttings and
seed. Tender care must be bestowed on young
stock, as a slug may spoil half-a-dozen in one night.

Edraianthus pumiliorum. — Charming as
the above is, this to my mind is even more so, the

June 15, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

417

flowers being larger and of a sheeny red-purple.
The flowers are set off by the quite distinct
foliage, which is grassy, all radical, and of a grey
or glaucous hue. The Edraianthi are supposed to
be short-lived, but I think this is an error. The
contrary is proved if you keep slugs away from
them, but how to do it is the puzzle — they are so
partial to these dainty things ; and not only do
they eat the tops in summer, but in mild periods
in winter they will eat off the crowns right down
below the surface. My plan is to dash over the
plants once a week some dry silver sand ; this is
otherwise beneflcial, as it repels the hot sunshine
and helps to fix the slender collars.

Dianthus Michael Foster. — This is an
early Pink of the alpine class. It is a sort of
glorified D. alpinus, and suggests itself as some-
thing between alpinus and neglectus, and a better
perennial than either. I have a strong speci-
men of this first now in full bloom, stature 7
inches.

Saponaria ocymoides splendens. — If you
want bright rosy-red colour and plenty of it, plant
this by all means ; it is a glorious variety for
bright weather, lasting a long time in the most
exposed positions, but for effect at twilight the
paler type is not to be despised ; indeed in the
evenings of the latter half of May and well into
the month of June it actually lights up the rock
garden by its myriad flowers and broad masses.

Primula Heidi. — This is now in bloom, and a
plant to linger over. How rapidly the whole
plant develops ; there is scarcely a part of it to be
seen in the last week of April, and by the first
week in June or earlier in more salubrious climates
than Yorkshire it gets into flower. The flowers
are creamy white with just a suspicion of blue
milk-white in the older Mowers ; the perfume too
is as peculiar as it is full and spicy. I get seed-
lings to flower sometimes the first year, mostly the
second, yet it is a capital perennial Primrose.

Asperula Athoa (Boiss.). — This is one of a
group that has not long been grown here. None
of our native species can scarcely give any idea of its
habit and stature. It flowers profusely at a height
of 2 inches to 3 inches ; the whorled foliage is dense,
thick and woolly, and the clusters of rosy-carmine
flowers terminate every half procumbent stem. At
the first glance a flowering specimen suggests an
Androsace. I am assured of its hardiness, but
hitherto I have kept it under glass in a cold frame
with air always on.

Asperula nitida (Sib. and Sm.).— This is a
totally different species ; the tufts of leaves areas
dense as a Club Moss, and of deep shining green,
as implied by the name, and the bright coral-red
flowers are in such compact clusters as to almost
cover the foliar cushions : the total height when
in flower is little more than 1 inch. Wedged be-
tween stones in vegetable soil that keeps moist it
does well, and the effect is exquisite.

Asperula c&rpathica is a more lax planti
growing 3 inches to 4 inches high, somewhat re-
sembling hirta in other respects ; flower bright
rose. I am sure this trio of alpine Woodruffs will
delight alpine plant growers.

Iris verna. — I have now tried this fully ex-
posed several years, and find it quite hardy.
Stature 3 inches, or 6 inches to 7 inches when in
flower. It likes a semi-boggy soil, and so grown
is an evergreen plant with me. Its flowers are
large for so small a plant, appearing in April,
May, and June. They last but two or three days,
are delicate in their colours and chaste to a
degree. It is just the thing for the base of the
rock garden with an east or west aspect.

Saxifraga cotyledon. — I believe this is less
common than its variety pyramidalis, or even the
queen of Saxifrages, longifolia, but it is, I think,
superior to either as a flowering plant. Compared
with these, usually considered the two choicest
for big and symmetrical panicles of white bloom,
its plumes are larger, denser, and more elegant,
and the flowers being pure white (without spots)
with longer and narrower petals, the effect is far
more graceful. It only needs to be seen side by

side with the better-known favourites, and I think
no one would dispute its superiority.

Woodville, Kirhstall, J. Wood.

SEEDLING DAFFODILS.

I AM obliged to Mr. Engleheart for advice given
on this subject, and quite agree with him as to the
undesirability of raising varieties that have an
element of weakness in them. We want Datlodils
that can be left to care for themselves in the
orchard and woodland, and for this reason I selected
the old double to breed from. I think by the aid
of old Ajax we may in time secure a race of Daffo-
dils, parti-coloured and white, that, whilst giving
us the exquisite tint and form for instance of
cernuus or moschatus, will be endowed with the
vigour and reliability in all soils of Ajax. As re-
gards the Tenby, I did not know, when some years
ago I crossed it with cernuus, that it cannot be re-
lied on in a general way. lam the fortunate possessor
of a soil in which the Tenby flourishes like a weed
and cernuus increases freely. I have had clumps
of the latter not in any way disturbed for six
years, and bearing some thirty blooms on stalks
IS inches high. I naturally thought that by
making the Tenby the seed-bearer 1 should, per-
haps, get pale-coloured varieties with a vigorous
constitution. However undesirable it may be to
cross two delicate kinds, there can scarcely be
the same objection to the union of two varieties
one of which is capable of infusing hardiness and
vigour into the offspring. Mr. Engleheart is
aware of what has been done in this way with
such things as Rhododendrons and Gladioli, the
union of a tender and very hardy kind having
given us a race of beautiful and thoroughly reli-
able garden flowers, and in the same manner, by
using a robust variety as seed-bearer, one ought
to be able to work some such change with Daffo-
dils. Some of my seedling doubles are between
Emperor and Ajax Telamonius. I think they
will yield extra large blooms, they are so vigorous.
Unfortunately, I have little time for fi3'bridising
Datlodils, but ever year I raise a few always from
a different cross. The worst of it is, one has so
long to wait, but the first five years bridged over,
one may annually expect some new form, which,
if not sufficiently distinct to be worthy of naming,
will add to the attractions of the garden.

J. Cokniiill.

Snowdrops in swamps. — Has anyone tried
the Snowdrop in swamps, flooded in winter, or
other very damp or semi-sodden places? Or have
any amateur readers of The Garden grown them in
water like Hyacinths or other bulbs '! I have had
sufficient experience in these directions to know
that it can be done, but would be glad to have
the experience of others. The finest show of common
Snowdrops I have ever seen was in a swamp in
a wood so soft and treacherous, that it was unsafe
to stand five minutes in one place. — D. T. F.

Stock Princess Alice.— This beautiful white
Stock is again proving itself most useful. Plants
raised at the end of February and planted in the
open borders in April have already grown to a
large size, and are commencing to flower freely.
Its earliness is one of its chief recommendations.
Another good point about it is the freedom and
strength of the side shoots and bloom spikes.
With East Lothian and other strains one may get
a grand central spike of bloom, but the second-
ary ones are of ten comparatively poor unless
when the plants are grown on rich soil. With
Princess Alice, however, these latter are always
large and full, and the more the knife is used the
more it grows and flowers. In this latter respect
it certainly has no equal. All who esteem white
Stocks should grow it. — J. C.

Single Pyrethrums. — That these are far
more pleasing as cut flowers than are the double
forms there can be no question, whilst their
beauty in the garden is also great. But I want
to ask of someone who may have experience
whether the dark-coloured varieties are more en-

during when cut and placed in water than are the
light-coloured ones. On an exceedingly hot day
(May 30) I had given me to take home a few
blooms of a dark red and of a pink form. All in
the great heat soon flagged in the hand, and I
slipped them into a loose umbrella. When I
reached home they were placed in water. The
pale ones lasted a few days, the red ones are still
fine after nine days. I think the flowers were all
of the same age, as the plants had been hard
picked a few days previously. — D.

Giant Poppies. — There is a great fancy for
blooms of these perennial Poppies on the part of
ladies who purchase them in the market, where,
having been exposed to the sun for several hours,
it is found almost ere the flowers have been
carried home the petals fall. These Poppies
should be purchased only when in an unopened
state. It is very different when the flowers are
cut in the garden and set fresh into water,
though even then no flowers are so enduring as
are those cut early in the day and with the
buds just breaking. Those who offer flowers for
sale should have cool, moist places in which to
keep them in hot weather. Here in the Kingston
market cut flowers of all description are fully ex-
posed to the sun and wind, there being no shelter
of any description for them. — A. D.

Chrysanthemums.

CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES.
There should be no delay in getting the plants
into the pots in which they are to flower. Early
potting is a better plan than feeding with stimu-
lants whilst the Chrysanthemums are in small
pots, although the latter practice has been re-
sorted to at times through being unable to do
the potting because of other pressing work. I
do not like the roots of any plant that is intended
for growing into a large specimen to become
woven and interwoven whilst the same is in a
small state. There will certainly be a severe
check when such are transferred to other pots,
but if a plant be shifted just when the roots
have taken to the earth by reaching the sides of
the pots and just running through the drainage
hole, we reduce the check to a minimum. Chry-
santhemums like a loamy soil, and I generally
try to provide that of the best quality. Loam,
of course, varies according to the locality where
it is cut ; that of a yellow colour is most liked,
and highly valued if full of fibre. Use two-
thirds of loam in the compost, the other third
being made up with horse manure, gritty mate-
rial and bone-meal. The above is a good, sound,
wholesome soil, which is preferred to a mixture
made up of all kinds of fanciful things. The
potting should be done in a very firm manner.
This item caDnot be too often mentioned. Stand
the pots well apart in their summer quarters,
which should be the most open spot in the gar-
den. Neatly stake each plant so that the growth
is secure against wind. For a week or so after
the repotting has taken place it is advisable to
water at the roots very sparingly, and if the
weather be hot and dry at the time, a sprinkling
with water overhead twice a day will prevent
the leaves flagging. As I write there are in-
dications of a sunny season. At least we have
had during May above the average of sunshine,
which fact makes one hope such weather may
continue. Sunshine is most suitable for Chry-
santhemums and a dry season, one that brings
out the better qualities of the blossoms. Being
a moisture-loving plant, the work of watering is
considerable throughout dry summers, but such
work must be cheerfully done and will bring its
reward in the autumn.

The behaviour of varieties in certain seasons
is an interesting study. For example, the dull,

418

THE GARDEN

IJunb 15, 1895.

sunless summer of last year was unsuitable tor
the development of choice blooms of the variety
Lord Brooke, so telling in its colour of bronze.
Scarcely a flower was to be seen of the terra-
cotta-coloured Col. W. B. Smith. The rich dark
crimson Wm. Seward was conspicuously absent,
and the equally rich crimson Edwin Molyneux
not seen in anything like good form. White-
coloured varieties seem less affected by seasons
than other shades, unless it be yellows, which
are always good. The gigantic thick-petalled
variety Mrs. C. Wheeler was not at all good
last year, and consequently rarely seen at shows.
Personally, this type is not one that commends
itself, for not only is it coarse, but [ requires
the purest of country air as well as the best of
management to obtain exhibition blooms, and
cultivated for other uses, that is, when allowed
to grow a large number of flowers to a plant,
Mrs. C. Wheeler assumes the form of a scanty
arrangement of a few large petals with a huge
yellow centre devoid of grace or colour. Beauty
of Castlewood is very little better, and if one
were to discontinue the growth of such varieties
there would be very little loss. An interesting
article on page 362 of The Garden deals well
with the subject of coarse varieties of Chrysan-
themums. The remarks of Mr. J. C. Tallack
are excellent, and I think with him that a
system which assists in perpetuating such
coarse, ungainly Chrysanthemum flowers as
International, Mrs. C. Harman-Payne, Etoile
de Lyon, Duke of York, Mrs. E. W. Clarke,
Miss Ethel Addison, and others is wrong
somewhere. It occurs to me that " the best
judges " might exhibit a little less disposition
to lengthen the number of "points" each
bloom must possess, and a trifle more boldness
when judging. That is to say, they might
deal with coarse blossoms in a similar manner
to that which obtains among our Pose-loving
friends. An overgrown flower is marked
a bad one, and as such tells, of course,
against the exhibitor. But by this means
Paul Neron, Ulrich Brunner, and Cabbage-
like specimens of Her Majesty are duly
apportioned their proper weight, and the
prizes given to more charming, if less
bulky, specimens. If judges of Chrysanthe-
mums set the example exhibitors would soon
follow, but at present the latter know that
" weight" is the principal aim. Apparently we
cannot hope for a more desirable taste in the
matter of types of the Japanese Chrysanthe-
mum being fostered by the National Chrysan-
themum Society through its floral committee.
Size seems to be the one thing needful. On
referring to their meeting of October 24 last, I
find their highest award was given in each case
to Mr. R. Ballantine, Mrs. H. J. Jones, Reine
dAngleterre, and Aniiral Avellan— varieties
which my notes of the time tell me are abso-
lutely devoid of graceful formation, if we except
perhaps the first named. That possessed a
dingy rose-lilac tint, but certainly had long
flowering florets. The charming deep rich
yellow Pallanza, the exceedingly bright bronzy
M. C. Molin, the well-formed distinctly tinted
M. Aug. de Lacvivier, not being giants in
dimensions, received the commendation of that
body. I venture to say, however, that with or
without the latter honour the last named sorts
will become more popular than those first
named. Regarding the best varieties of the
autumn flower, I personally should like to re-
turn to the time when Mile. Lacroix was
thought the highest type of beauty. I do
not mean the time in its literal sense, for the
wealth of varieties was so limited then to what
it is now. We have at the present time most
handsome kinds of almost every hue of colour.

Mile. Ther&se Rey, Sunflower, Wm. Seward,
the new variety Duchess of York are splendid
types of colour and form. Col. W. B. Smith
and Lord Brooke, of loose incurved form, are
fine examples of showy beauty. Varieties as
these require no definition ; their merits appeal
to every eye.

With me insect pests are less numerous than
usual. Green-fly is fairly persistent among
the tender points of the stems, but this is
easily killed by dusting with tobacco powder. If
through neglect we allow our plants to become
thickly infested with this or any other pest,
damage to good health will accrue. The leaf-
mining grub has not yet been found at all, but
there is time for it. As late as July I have
known it troublesome. Hand-picking is the
only remedy I have tried ; this is effective. If
earwigs are caught now we considerably lessen
the likelihood of attacks when our plants are in
bud later in the year.

The disposition of the variety Viviand Morel
and its sport Charles Davis to develop flower
buds early in the year is most marked this
season in every case where I have seen the sorts.
I fear this habit has become constitutional, and
may in time considerably affect the high position
obtained by both as exhibition flowers, for we
must cut the plants back and by so doing give
them a serious check. Fortunately these va-
rieties are very quick growers and in a short
time push out other shoots, which will eventu-
ally produce handsome blossoms. Late-struck
plants are the least affected, and this mode of
culture is commended. In any case the mode
of procedure is to cut away the portion of the
stem which has produced the shoots with buds
— this will be about 6 inches in length — to
hasten the growth of other shoots.

H. Shoesmith.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1018

CONE-FLOWERS.
(with a coloured plate of rudbeckia
maxima and r. pinnata.*)
A few years ago the Cone-flowers were all
comfortably and contentedly included in one
genus, Rudbeckia, but in the new Kew Index
we find them again separated into three or four,
and the two flowers so gracefully combined in
the accompanying coloured portrait are of
different genera, the larger being Rudbeckia,
and the smaller Lepachys. Must gardeners
submit or rebel ! It is trying to their patience
to find " Genera Plantarum " and Nicholson's
" Dictionary of Gardening" so soon superseded,
and we will venture here to continue the name
Rudbeckia for all the Cone-flowers. These
North American composites make fine showy
plants for the hardy border, flowering in late
summer and autumn. The purple kinds (now
again called Echinacea) have, I think, been
already figured, and have certainly often been
described in The Garden, so I shall mention
about eight yellow kinds, confining myself to
those with which I am familiar in my garden at
Edge. To begin with the portraits : —

R. maxima is a fine, handsome plant growing 6
or 7 feet high, having flowers densely set with
broad golden rays and produced in August and
September. The large glaucous oval and entire
leaf at once distinguishes it from others of the

* Drawn for The Garden by Miss E. F. Sneyd
in the garden of the Eev. C. Wolley-Dod. Litho-
graphed and printed by Guillaume Severeyns.

genus. Being a native of the warmer States of
America, it thrives best in warm gardens and in
hot summers. I raised many plants of it ten
years ago from American seed, and in 1887 and
1893 it was grand, but cold, wet summers, more
than the frosts of winter, have greatly reduced the
dimensions of the plants, which want renewing
from imported seeds.

Rudbeckia (now Lepachys) pinnata, the other
flower in the portrait, wants no description, as
both leaf and flower are so well represented. It
grows 4 feet or 5 feet high, flowering from July un-
til hard frosts overpower it. It is not a long-lived
plant, getting too hard and woody at the base to
continue to break well, so it is better to keep a few
seedlings on hand. Seed is abundantly produced
and easily raised. Plants flower in the second
year, and continue about five years more.

R. californica is the giant of the triBe for size of
flower and cone, the flower being often about6 inches
across, and the cone 2 inches high ; leaves, flower-
stalks, and root are equally robust. The flowers
come early in July ; they have few and horizontal
rays, and are solitary on the stalks, their size
making up for their small number, and the whole
plant having a majestic appearance. It is better
for frequent division, exhausting the soil if left to
itself for several years.

R. laciniata is the tallest of the Cone-flowers,
though not so stout a plant as the last. I have
one in a moist, sheltered corner which Mr. Robin-
son, when visiting my garden a few years ago,
said was the handsomest plant I had. It is still
flourishing, and grows every year about 10 feet
high, though 6 feet or 7 feet is the ordinary height
of the type. The leaves, as the namo implies, are
unevenly divided into narrow ribbons, or cut into
larger lobes, different individuals varying much
in leafage. The flower is large, the rays curved
downwards so as nearly to touch the stalk, and
the cone is greenish. Plants live many years
without spreading much, but are easily divided,
and self-sown seedlings come up round if the
seed escapes the green linnets and chaffinches,
which delight to eat it.

R. laevigata (nitida ?). — About ten years ago a
very tall and late Cone-flower was sent to me from
St. John's Nursery, Worcester, with the name
R. hevigata (Pursh. ). The sender told me that he
had both plant and name on good authority from
America. The general habit is that of R. laciniata.
but the leaves are less incised than in any of that
species ; the flowers, though smaller in outline,
are more regular and plentiful, and have broader
and more golden rays. They begin to open when
R. laciniata is over, and continue into November.
From a gardener's point of view the two plants
are quite distinct. Twice I sent specimens to
Kew Herbarium for a name, and twice it was re-
turned as R. laciniata. I also sent living plants
to Chiswick, when the Aster conference was held,
and to Kew Gardens, but the name R. laevigata
was not recognised. Asa Gray gives R. laevigata
(Pursh.) as a variety of R. laciniata. I have lately
seen this plant described as R. nitida, but I do not
find it agree with Asa Gray's characters of that
species. Whatever it is, it is worth growing as a
late autumn flower. We must remember that
many of these North American composites readily
form hybrids in gardens, and this may be one.

R. subtomentosa is another distinct species.
The flowers show hardly any raised cone ; the
disc is very black, and the golden rays, about an
inch long, continue horizontal, so that it would
hardly be taken for a Cone-flower. It grows 4 feet
high, flowering late and very freely, and is easily
increased by division. Young plants succeed best ;
when old they are apt, like R. pinnata, to get so
hard at the base that large limbs suddenly lose
their vital union with the root and wither before
flowering.

Two remain to be described, of which the
flowers are rather similar, but the habit very
different. They are —

R. speciosa, to which gardeners give the un-
authorised name of R. Newmanni, though I never
could discover why. It is so well known that I

, fA

June 15, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

419

need say little more than advise those who wish it
to succeed in hot and dry summers to dress the
surface with rich compost and to water it well, or
it withers prematurely.

R. hirta is said by Asa Gray to be " annual or
biennial." It certainly requires frequent renewal
from seed. It flowers generally more than once,
not often more than twice, but its life is of uncer-
tain duration. It grows generally about 18 inches
high and produces a large spreading panicle, each
flower being often 4 inches across. Two-year-old
plants begin to flower early in June, and continue
gay through summer. It is well to select the
largest and most golden flowers for seed. This
species always attracts notice in my garden from
the bright colour of the rays and the good con-
trast of the black cone. Similar treatment to
that given to Canterbury Bells will Becure a
succession of plants.

Excepting R. maxima, I have, in a long
gardening experience, found no difficulty in
maintaining a stock of all these Cone-flowers.
R. pinnata, R. laciniata, R. hirta ripen plenty
of seed every year. I never found ripe seed on
any of the others, but they are all easily
divided ; the whole tribe likes a rich moist soil
and a warm aspect. C. Wolley-Dod.

Edge Hall, Malpas.

The Week's Work.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Tomatoes. — The dreaded disease has already ap-
peared in several gardens in this neighbourhood,
especially where it has long been the custom to
sow home-saved seed. This leads me to think
that, as with many other plants and vegetables, so
with Tomatoes, a change of seed is very necessary.
To guard against the malady a comparatively dry
atmosphere must be maintained and above all the
syringe never used over the foliage. If growth is
fairly strong and fruit sufficiently abundant, let
well alone, as too rich top-dressings and liberal
feedings are apt also to encourage the disease.
Where Tomatoes occupy a house to themselves
their special needs can be readily attended to, and
I would recommend that afternoon damping down
and early closing be not practised. There are few
fruiting subjects less affected by insect pests than
the Tomato ; therefore a somewhat arid atmo-
sphere continually is beneficial rather than other-
wise, provided always plenty of root moisture is
supplied. Sometimes whole batches of plants are
ruined by attacks of wireworm, the same having
been in the soil when the plants were potted. The
first sign of their presence is a yellowness in the
foliage, together with slight flagging during sun-
shine ; this is caused by the worms boring their
way up the main stem. The best remedy is to
procure some quite fresh horse droppings and
spread them thickly over the surface soil of the
pots ; the smell of these after being watered will
entice them down from the stems, when they may
be destroyed. The manure should be examined
every second morning until a more healthy growth
is resumed. I had a batch of plants so affected
last year owing to newly-cut loam being used in
potting, and the above trap answered well, the
plants afterwards growing and fruiting well
Prevention being better than cure, it is always
more practicable to use soil at least two years old,
as then these pests are more likely to have grown
to a discernible size and may be picked out and
destroyed. Tomatoes for successional work may
still be sown, using single small pots, this being
not only better for the plants, but a saving
of labour in the end. Place the pots in a
moderately warm house until the seed has
germinated, then remove immediately to a green-
house temperature, as coddling at this advanced
date when pipe-heated structures run up so high
is ruinous.

Asparagus. — Where seed for the supply of
stock plants was sown in March, as advised, thir-

ning out will now be necessary. This should be
done with a free hand, as. if left too thickly, much
difficulty and damage wil. ollow when the plants
are lifted for transplanting. A mulch of rotten
manure between the ruws will do much towards
preserving moisture about the roots, which at
present lie very near the surface. Give several
good soakings of liquid manure during the grow-
ing season. Where beds exist for forcing, growth
will now be very far advanced, and the most must
be made of the time for feeding the roots to
strengthen the crowns for next year's work.
Keep down weeds either by hand-weeding or by
the application of a little salt twice in the
summer, the latter plan, of course, being by far
the most economical, salt also helping to keep
light porous soils in a moist condition. Nitrate
of soda is one of the best manures for Asparagus,
if used carefully in showery weather or watered
home by watering cans. All Asparagus beds are
the better for occasional floodings of farmyard
liquid manure at intervals of a month, except
where the soil is unusually retentive and in wet
seasons.

Self- protecting Broccoli. — Asa late autumn
and early winter Broccoli to succeed Autumn
Giant and the later sowings of Walcheren Cauli-
flowers, no variety can equal Veitch's Self-pro-
tecting. The sooner the first batch of seedlings
is got out the better, the smaller ones, if a
secondary sowing has not been made, being
pricked out into a bed and well nourished for
three weeks longer for successional work. The
Self-protecting, being a very strong grower,
needs plenty of room with a rich soil, and as,
unlike the ordinary winter and spring Broccoli,
which are far more hardy, it will have to be lifted
and placed under cover at the approach of sharp
frost, a strong sappy growth is no detriment,
but rather the reverse. Some growers place the
young plants in trenches, and doubtless this is
one way of securing the largest heads with, in
the end, the least trouble, as once the soil in
these gets well soaked, it is an easy matter by an
occasional watering to keep it so. Allow abund-
ance of room between each plant, and water the
trenches the day previous to planting. See also
that the seed bed is well moistened at the same
time, or many of the best fibrous rootlets will
snap off in drawing. Examine the centres, as
this variety, and, indeed, all Broccoli, will some-
times have a percentage of blind plants. If very
hot at the time it will be well to shade the plants
for a week with evergreen boughs.

Main crop Celery. — By the time this calendar
appears the main batch of Celery will in most
places be sufficiently forward for putting into the
trenches. Should the weather continue hot and
dry, extra care will be needed in transplanting.
Newly-formed trenches must be well trodden and
then soaked with water a day or two before
wanted, and the plants, whether in boxes, frames,
or open sheltered nooks, well soaked as well. If
taken up, even in a semi-dry state, much of the
root soil will fall off, and the plants consequently
flag and suffer. Planting completed, water
home and afford shade from hot sun. Remove
any suckers which may be clustering around the
base of the plants and watch for the Celery
maggot, which will sometimes appear soon after
the young plants are put out into the trenches.

Early Cole worts. — Some people like to have
a small batch of this most useful vegetable in
early autumn, and in such cases seed should now
be sown, the sowing for the principal winter batch
being deferred till the second week in July. A
sowing of the hardy green variety may be made
at the end of July for supplying small heads in
spring. Coleworts being very compact in habit may
be planted pretty closely together, and if any
quarter has been cleared of Potatoes or Peas, the
Coleworts may be planted without any further
preparation of the ground.

Radishes. — These should now be sown more
frequently, as when once the bulbs arrive at their
full size they soon become hot and tough. The
small Olive-shaped and Turnip varieties are by
far the best for this time of year, the position

most suitable being a semi-shaded one and the root-
run rich and moist. Strong manure is not ad-
visable, as it is apt to give the Radishes an
objectionable flavour, old Mushroom manure
being best. Daily waterings are also necessary
after the young seedlings come through the ground,
dryness being fatal to them. The best way is to
sow a small patch once a fortnight, and if the seed
is sown thinly the labour of after-thinning is
avoided, and birds at this season are usually less
troublesome amongst Radishes and small seeds
generally.

Endive. — Where this is required for a change
from Lettuce in early autumn, a little seed may
now be sown on a cool moist border. A large
number of plants should not be transplanted, as
sometimes these extra early lots of Endive will
bolt wholesale. The green and moss-curled va-
rieties are by far the best for sowing now, leaving
the broad-leaved till the July sowing. Where
time and labour are scarce the plants may be
thinned out to the proper distances in the seed-
bed when quite small, and allowed to stand there.

J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSES.

Early Vines. — To keep the fruit in the best
possible condition early or hard forced Vines must
have more air and less fire heat, the amount of the
latter being governed by the external conditions.
It is important to retain the foliage in a healthy
state, and during very hot weather with Vines
close to the glass it will be necessary to shade in
order to retain the foliage till it has performed its
functions. In cutting ripe fruit it is well to clear
any rods which may have been infested with in-
sect pests, and then give them daily syringings in
the evenings so as to get rid of any insect life
which may have escaped. During hot dry weather
the houses containing ripe Grapes should have the
floors and walls damped twice daily ; this will keep
the foliage healthy and prevent shrivelling of the
berries. Black Hamburgh Grapes fully ripe will
be best given a light shade during the hottest
parts of the day, but Muscats require full ex-
posure if the foliage is healthy. Vigorous canes
will make a lot of lateral growth, so go over the
Vines frequently, as much harm follows excessive
thinning, but little and often is the best policy, as
this prevents scalding and the Vines do not miss
the growth. In thinning surplus growth allow
the terminal shoots more play if there is space for
these to extend, as root action is encouraged. In
light soil more water may be required, but must
be given with care, as the thin-skinned varieties
like Foster's Seedling and Madresfield Court crack
badly. It is best to thoroughly water these at
the colouring period, mulching afterwards and
thus retain the moisture. If watering is necessary
it should be done early in the day, plenty of air
given, and a freer lateral growth allowed for a
short time afterwards. Many early Vines are
much injured by being kept too dry at the roots
at this season, as though forcing is at an end the
roots are still active.

Succession houses. — These will now be chang-
ing colour and at a critical point, as the Vines
will require more fire heat with dull or wet
weather ; more air must be given also and a drier
atmosphere maintained, though damping down
most days will be necessary, in all cases the ex-
ternal conditions being the chief guide. Perfect
berries, and as large as possible, can only be ob-
tained when there is no check given, and it is
the safest plan to admit a good circulation of air,
at the same time giving warmth in the pipes. As
soon as colouring begins leave air on the ventila-
tors all night. A little on the front ventilators
will greatly assist the colouring, and a chink on
the back ventilators late in the evening will pre-
vent sweating or moisture on the berries early in
the day. The temperature for houses at this
stage should now be 75° to 80° by day, the house
being closed in good time and the thermometer
running up to 90° or 95° for Muscats, giving 75°
at night and 5° less in mixed houses. If air is
given at night there will be less fear of scorching

420

THE GARDEN

[June 15, 1895.

early in the day. In all cases admit air early and
in small quantities at a time. This creates a
genial atmosphere ; whereas high temperatures
and sudden rushes of cold air cause mischief,
disease, and favour insect pests. Watering at
this point is important, and must be given liber-
ally in shallow borders, doing the work just as
the berries show colour. It is best to give tepid
water, and if the surface is at all hard pierce it
lightly with a wide-pronged fork. Give liquid
manure at this stage, or, failing this, a surface-
dressing of a good fertiliser, such as Thompson's
Vine manure, washing it down to the roots. A
good mulch should then be given, and another
watering in a few days, which will keep the mulch
moist and the roots moving freely to support the
fruit to the finish, as Grapes never colour well
when dry at the roots or in a dry atmosphere.
Allow lateral growth of Muscats more freedom,
stopping gross shoots, but allowing weaker ones
to grow on, and feed freely with liquid manure.
Early ripening of this choice Grape should be the
first consideration, as it keeps better.

Late Vines, such as Lady Downe's and others,
will now be set or setting, and in many houses
ready to thin. In thinning late kinds it must be
remembered they have to hang a long time, and
unless well thinned they cannot keep well.
Large-berried kinds, such as Gros Colman, re-
quire several thinnings, and at least three thin-
nings should be given large bunches required to
keep sound into the new year. Mrs. Pince,
Alnwick Seedling, Alicante, and Lady Downe's
all set such a profusion of small, stoneless berries
that much care is required to remove these to
allow those swelling room to develop. Watering
and feeding the roots should follow thinning.
Outside borders will be drier than usual with the
little rainfall we have had through the spring
months, and such borders will now take liquid
manure and other food freely. The temperature
in this house should not fluctuate much. Avoid
cold winds, and in wet weather keep up a genial
warmth in the pipes, with air on the ventilators
to prevent scalding and rust.

Pot Vines. — The roots of those for early forcing
having reached the sides of the pots, they may
now be fed freely, and the lateral growth stopped
at the first joint from the cane ; these later on can
be cut quite close to the cane, but by allowing
them to remain at present, the buds at the base
swell more freely and the canes are strengthened.
Mulching canes well advanced will save watering
and promote strong growth, and there should be
no lack of atmospheric moisture, with the house
closed early and the canes well syringed. Small
plants struck late should now be given a shift
into 6-inch pots ; these will make good material
for another season if kept growing in a brisk heat.

Planting Vines.— It is not too late to plant
young Vines struck for this purpose if the house
is in condition for the plants. I have often taken
a crop in May and in early June planted new canes.
Those who have Vines in a bad state may with ad-
vantage plant now and grow on freely. Small
houses may often be utilised for a crop of Grapes.
Those planted in small borders may be fruited the
following season, and they force much better than
pot Vines. They may not be quite so early, but
they carry a better crop. In planting spread out
the roots freely— plant firmly— shading for a short
time and close early, keeping close for a short
time, and grow in a brisk heat with plenty of
moisture, stopping all lateral growths at the first
joint. Should the plants make a weak start, stop
the leader at a few feet from the base and train
up another leader ; this will give increased
strength. As regards the final length of canes
much depends upon the size of the house— 8 feet
to 10 feet is a fair length, and the former will
carry half-a-dozen nice bunches.

Vine pests. — Red spider is the most common
post among Vines, but is soon got rid of by using
sulphur, either by sponging or coating the pipes
with sulphur. The first named is safest and a
sure cure if the leaves are lightly sponged when
the pest first appears. If the pipes are covered
the crop should be well advanced, but a moist

atmosphere will do much towards keeping the
foliage clean. The pest usually makes headway
whilst the fruit is hanging in a ripe state, so that
it is necessary to keep the foliage clean up to that
period. Thrips also make their appearance at
this season, and in addition to spoiling the foliage,
mark the berries also if not soon cleansed.
Sponging with a little soft soap and tobacco
water is the best preventive, and in badly affected
cases fumigating is necessary, but this is risky
unless done carefully by several light fumigatings
in succession. Mildew is the worst Vine disease,
and must have speedy attention when it appears.
Vines with fruit well advanced are more difficult
to deal with in these cases. Sponging all affected
leaves with soft soap and sulphur mixed, or Bent-
ley's mildew specific will get rid of the pest in its
early stages, but this is not sufficient. The pipes
should be painted over with thick sulphur solu-
tion and the house kept drier for a time. In mix-
ing add a little oil to the sulphur, causing it to
adhere to the pipes. After resorting to the above
air carefully for a time to keep up a brisk tem-
perature, and the pest will not spread. Should
the bunches be infested cover lightly with dry
sulphur ; this may be washed off after a time and
will not affect the berries if carefully syringed.
Mealy bug may be troublesome, but this can be
got rid of by persistent efforts. When the Vines
are at rest is the best time to war against this
enemy, but if present now, by going over the
canes twice a week with a soft brush dipped in
methylated spirit the pest may be kept down.

G. Wythes.

Kitchen Garden.

LEEKS.

In seasons of plenty the above vegetable is
often despised, but in such winters as we have
recently experienced the Leek is most valu-
able, being more hardy than most vegetables,
and after a protracted frost mild in flavour.
Although Leeks are not so popular in the soutli
as in the north, I feel sure they will have been
a welcome addition to the supply this spring in
gardens where hitherto there was little de-
mand for them. They are deserving of ex-
tended culture, as they are most wholesome and
form a really tasty dish when well served. In
a note on the value of this really useful vege-
table I do not intend to go at length into the
details of culture for exhibition, but to treat of
ordinary culture for home use and to name a
select few.

Of late years we have had several additions
to the list of kinds, some noted for their
length, others for their thickness. Length may
be an important point for exhibiting, but for
ordinary use I prefer those thick at the base
and uniform in size, as when prepared for
cooking there is less waste. For mere flavour-
ing, the green tops are all that is required, and
for this purpose the plants are grown thickly.
Those who require exhibition plants raise them
early in the year, sowing the seed in heat ; but
as the plant is very hardy, by sowing in mild
weather at the end of February or early in
March on a warm border, covering the bed
with mats in frosty weather, roots may be had
for winter use quite large enough if well fed
during the growing season. Now is the time
that the earliest lot of plants should receive
attention. The best mode of growth is in deep
drills on heavy land and in trenches on light
land, much the same culture being required as
for Celery. In growing exhibition Leeks, the
plants are usually pricked out into boxes and
ready for their permanent quarters by the
middle of May, but as I am dealing with them
as an ordinary crop, I will only touch upon the
necessary culture. Plants sown in the open

should always have plenty of space to develop,
as sturdy plants with ample roots do not receive
a check like weak, crowded ones. They delight
in good solid manure dug into the trenches,
with ample supplies of moisture and liquid
manure as growth increases. In planting, the
roots should not be twisted or bent in any way,
but placed quite straight and made firm in
planting.

I advise trenches on light land for various
reasons, the chief being, moisture and food can
be more readily given to the plants, and mould-
ing or blanching is less difficult. Excellent re-
sults may be obtained by growing on the surface
if due attention is paid to manuring and water-
ing, with abundant food during growth, but
even then it is advisable to plant in shallow
drills drawn 2 feet apart. The plants, if a
large kind or planted early, should be 10 inches
to 12 inches apart. Many do not mould up in
the old-fashioned way with soil, but bandage
the stems ; others use drain pipes and fill in
with cocoa fibre or fine soil, but for ordinary
use moulding up with soil will suffice. It is
advisable to make two or three plantings where
this vegetable is liked, the last on a cool border, as-
the produce will last well into June the following
year if lifted in May and placed in a shady, moist
border well manured. For early lifting I prefer
the Lyon types, whilst other good sorts are
Dobbie's Champion and Ayton Castle, all three
being specially adapted for exhibition, early
winter use, and noted for their mild flavour.
For late use the older Musselburgh is difficult
to beat, and, to show its hardy character, we
have it quite sound and good at this date. It
is large, of good flavour, the last to run to seed,
not so thick at the base as the Lyon, but supe-
rior for late use. There are other varieties,
but I consider the above selection the best for
use from November till June, and, if given
good culture from the start, few vegetables will
give a better return. G. Wythes.

Bolting in Cabbages.— In The Garden of
May 25, p. 363, "J. C," Newark, writing on
Cabbages bolting, praises Ellam's as an early
Cabbage on account of its freedom from bolting.
Whether it is the variety or the mode of culture
I am not prepared to say, although I believe too
early sowing of the seed is often the cause ; but
whereas in other gardens bolting is more or less
strongly in evidence year after year it is almost
unknown with us, and I depend almost entirely
upon Ellam's for winter planting. It is large
enough for most purposes, is good in quality,
comes early, and by planting 18 inches each way,
nearly as large a weight can be taken off a given
piece of ground as by planting larger growing
sorts. This year I am trying Sutton's Favourite,
with which I am much pleased. It is solid, com-
pact, very early, and not one of the plants have
bolted. Although we have many varieties of
Cabbage already, I think this variety will be
largely planted as soon as its merits become
known. — Wii. Harris, Upcott.

Pea Gradus. — As a good early Pea I can
strongly recommend Gradus. For some years
past I have always sown Duke of Albany in pots,
planting out when ready ; but Gradus is much
earlier and dwarfer, with large pods of a very dis-
tinct Marrow type. It may be asked, why sow
Marrow Peas at the end of the year when better
results are secured from the smaller varieties
of the Chelsea Gem section ? But such varieties
as the Duke or Gradus soon fill the basket, are
more appreciated in the kitchen, and as they are
only a few days behind the smaller kinds, give a
better return for the same culture. On heavy
clay soils it may not be advisable to sow large
Marrow PeaB at the end of the year, nor do I
advise sowing in any soils at that date in the open
ground, as good results cannot be expected in our
tickle climate. My plan is pot culture, and those

June 15, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

421

who grow in pots to plant out early in spring
well know how admirably such Peas succeed if not
forced too hard and attended to when planted.
The fine plants at trie Temple show proved how
well Peas force, but there must be ample time
allowed. I find when Peas are sown in good -sized
pots and brought on very slowly there is less
check at planting and they soon go away grandly.
Oradus is a 3-feet Pea, with a large, full pod
and of splendid flavour. To show its earliness, I
have this season plants podding freely from seed
sown in the open the end of March. It is certainly
the earliest of the large Marrow type I have
grown, and when planted out of pots at the end
of March in an average season, a crop may be
assured within two months from time of planting.
I have named Duke of Albany as good when
forced, but Gradus is a decided improvement in
height of haulm, earliness and free cropping ;
indeed, in this latter respect it is superior, as
though the Duke crops freely, it comes in all at
once ; whereas the newer variety is equally free
and lasts longer in bearing. — G. Wythes.

Early Potatoes. — An early Potato should
combine earliness with productiveness and good
quality, and in my experience, after a fairly
numerous trial of sorts over a number of years,
there is nothing better to be had than the three
following sorts, viz. : Ringleader, Early Regent,
and Puritan. They come in fit for use in the order
named, and invariably yield a heavy crop of good
even tubers of first-rate quality. We do not want
to grow a number of varieties, but a few reliable
sorts in quantity. In the above trio the gardener
who has a large family to provide for has three
Potatoes of undoubted merit, which will prove
alike satisfactory both to himself and his employer.
— Wm. Harris, Upcott.

Mulching' and watering Asparagus beds.
— With protracted drought the Asparagus crop
on light soils or in raised beds will be light, but
it may be greatly assisted by mulching and
watering afterwards. Spent Mushroom manure
is of great value as a mulch for this crop in
such seasons, and if well watered once a week
after mulching there will be better and more
succulent grass. I would also advise dressing
with fish manure before applying the mulch, as it
is a grand fertiliser ; or, failing this, use salt
freely and water it in, as this will keep the surface
free of weeds, in addition to supplying nutriment.
New plantations should likewise get attention.
If on the flat, with a wide space between the rows,
it is an easy matter to place litter close over the
roots, or if in beds, to cover the beds. This will
greatly assist root action and prevent dryness,
and one thorough watering will tide the plants
over a long time. Asparagus is not nearly as good
in flavour when grown on a dry hot soil, and is
much smaller in size than when assisted by mulch-
ing and watering. — S. M.

SOWING WINTER ONIONS.
Last autumn I intimated my intention of sow-
ing a portion of my Tripoli Onions on a plot
occupied for two years previously by Straw-
berries, a friend having told me that very
tine Onions that had thin necks and kept well
were annually grown on a similar plot in one
garden in this county. The seed was sown the
second week in August, the variety being Sutton's
Leviathan, and the surface of the old Straw-
berry bed was so hard, that it was with difficulty
the drills were drawn out. The seed germinated
rapidly, and as soon as the young Onions would
bear handling their numbers were reduced, the
final thinning being left, of course, until spring.
Another plot was prepared in the ordinary
manner, with plenty of manure, and seed of the
same variety sown on the same date. After the
Onions had grown to a good size in October we
had several gales of wind, the result being that
many of the plants on the prepared plot of ground
were much loosened at the base ; whereas all
those on the firm ground remained unmoved. I
thought this an advantage at the time, as my

experience is that once autumn-sown Onions
become loosened through wind at the bottom,
frost, should it prove severe, is certain to play
havoc with them. It may interest some to know
that not one blank occurred through the frost in the
row sown on the old Strawberry bed, and that at
the present time these are much more shapely and
larger bulbs than those on the other part, while
only one or two thick necks are to be seen. In
reply to some remarks on this subject last autumn,
the editor stated that in one garden in Scotland
where spring Onions had always failed an old
Strawberry plot was heavily mulched in autumn
with rich manure, the strength of which was
washed in by the winter rains. This was raked
off in spring, and without any further preparation
the drills drawn and the seed sown, with the
result that Onions of the finest size and quality
were produced. Some years ago old gardeners used
to grow many of their spring Onions on slightly
raised beds, having a narrow alley between, and
if by chance a seedling came up in the hard alley
and was allowed to grow, it always made a larger
bulb and had a better neck than the majority of
those on the beds. These combined facts prove,
I think, that Onions enjoy and, indeed, require a
firmer surface and root-run than can be secured
by any treading or even rolling. Certainly those
who have much difficulty in growing this impor-
tant crop might, if practicable, give the old
Strawberry bed system a trial. If winter Onions
are to be sown and the surface cannot therefore
be mulched with manure, then feed liberally with
liquid manure when in full growth.

J. Crawford.

Turnip Orange Jelly. — I do not think the
merits of this Turnip are as universally known as
they should be. For July, August and September
use it has few equals, standing drought well and
seldom running away to seed. Moreover, where
a yellow -fleshed variety is not objected to, its
flavour will be found irreproachable. Where
Turnips are wanted for exhibition during the
above named months. Orange Jelly is a capital
sort to grow, as so many of the white section are
liable to develop foul tap roots during hot weather
and to become infested with the Turnip grub,
which entirely spoils them for the purpose.
Although I look upon the old Chirk Castle as the
best all-round winter Turnip, yet Orange Jelly
is a fitting companion, and gives a pleasing change
on the dining table. Like all other Turnips, it
needs a cocl moist border and liberal thinning.
-J. C.

Winter Spinach..— Although of course the
seed will not be sown till August and September,
the present is a very good time to take the pre-
paration of the plot intended for this important
crop in hand. In soils infested with wireworm, a
good quantity of gas-lime may well be digged in,
and afterwards a little more, to which may be
added burnt garden refuse, wood ashes and a little
root, scuffled in immediately beneath the surface.
There will then be sufficient time between now
and sowing to allow of the strength of the upper-
most dose to wash down to that which was digged
in. In ground so prepared the pest seldom attacks
Spinach roots, and the above ingredients, having by
sowing time lost much of their strength, act as a
good fertiliser to the crop. Ground on which
early Cauliflowers have been grown will do well, it
being necessary to clear off the old stems as soon
as the crop is cut, as leaving them in the ground
after this only tends to impoverish it.

Cauliflowers. — I do not think that we shall
easily beat the Early London Cauliflower for sow-
ing in the autumn and for cutting before Peas
come in. For use in private establishments va-
rieties of the Snowball type may be good, but they
are of little use for market, being generally too
small. Early London is at least a fortnight earlier
than Walcheren if sown at the same date, and
this makes all the difference in prices, as the
market value of Cauliflowers drops considerably
as soon as Peas can be obtained. We have been
cutting this variety from autumn-sown plants for

the past ten days, commencing on May 24, and
Walcheren is only just ready. I do not wish to
say a word against the latter variety, as it is one
of the very best kinds of which to make successive
sowings ; but where earliness combined with good
size is required, Early London must be grown.
The Pearl has often been praised in your pages,
and to come in succession to early varieties nothing
can be better. If this is a selected stock from
Walcheren — as it is generally supposed to be — it
is very distinct and true, being dwarf and compact,
the heads of good shape and colour. I have never
met with much success from autumn sowings of
the Autumn Giant type, and though this has been
recommended I cannot think it advisable in gar-
dens where the soil is light. These big Cauli-
flowers appear to me to want the cooler days and
nights of autumn to bring them to perfection, and
I can see no necessity for growing them for early
work. — J. C. Tallack.

Tomato Duke of York.— At the Southamp-
ton show held on Whit Monday, Mr. T. Hall,
gardener to Sir S. Montague, Bart., M.P., ex-
hibited in his first prize collection of vegetables a
dish of handsome fruit of this Tomato. They
were not large, but perfect in shape and of really
good colour. Such fruits as these are preferable
in every respect to the large corrugated, rough
samples too often met with. — E. M.

Prickly Spinach in summer. — Mr. Young's
experience with the prickly Spinach sown in
summer will be of service to those who find a
difficulty in growing this vegetable during hot
weather and on certain soils. His note also re-
minds me of the fact that the summer Spinach is
equally good for sowing in autumn for a winter
supply ; in fact, a bed of it did me more service
by far last spring than did the ordinary winter
variety, it standing the frost better and producing
larger and better leaves. A friend of mine told
me it was his practice always to sow the summer
variety in autumn. This rule holds good with
other subjects, notably with Spanish or so-called
spring Onions. — J. Crawford.

MAY IN SOUTH DEVON.

The temperature for the last month has been
decidedly high, the mean average being 54-5°
against 51 '8° , which is the average for the last
sixteen years. In May, 1804, the temperature was
509°. The thermometer on the grass has not once
fallen to freezing point, the nearest approach being
on the 2nd, when 35° was registered.

Rainfall amounted to 0-66 of an inch, the
average for May being 229 inches, and the rainfall
during May, 1S94, 2 43 in. The total amount of the
rainfall since January 1 is 10-31 inches, against
12 65 inches for the corresponding period of 1894.

The amount of sunshine registered was 298
hours 35 minutes, against an average for May of
219 hours 35 minutes, and a record of 203 hours
50 minutes last year, the total amount registered
for the five months of 1895 being 790 hours 15
minutes against 706 hours 25 minutes for the same
months in 1S94. As regards wind, May has been
a quiet month, quieter than any of the preceding
thirteen. The total horizontal movement was
4637 miles and the greatest hourly velocity was
attained on the 15th, when a rate of 31 miles per
hour was recorded. It is curious to note that,
although with a lessened rainfall of 1'77 inches
compared with May, 1894, the mean humidity of
the past month has been greater, that of May, 1894,
being registered as 72 per cent, and that of May,
1895, as 73 per cent.

The flower garden in May is not entirely bereft
of Narcissi, poeticus recurvus and plenus lingering,
till the June days begin, in shady spots where the
Virginian Cowslip (Mertensia virginica) hangs its
drooping heads of turquoise blue. In the Lily
bed, where a dozen varieties are making good
growth, only one, L. pyrenaicum, is yet in bloom,
a pretty Lily with its chrome-yellow Turk's-cap
and red anthers, but not one to be used for indoor
decoration on account of its unpleasant scent. A
clump of the Wood Lily (Trillium grandiflorum)

422

THE GARDEK.

[June 15, 1895;

has been a beautiful sight. The flowers become
more numerous and larger with each succeeding
year, and the chaste loveliness of their snowy
petals standing out from the green setting of the
wide leaves should commend them to all flower-
lovers. Peat or leaf-mould should enter largely
into the composition of the soil in which they are
planted, and a situation in the partial shade
should be given them. In the herbaceous border
Doronicum plantagineum excelsum in masses has
been a fine sight, its large yellow stars in hundreds
glowing against a dark background of evergreens.
Dicentra spectabilis is also very decorative when
well grown, but as it becomes unattractive when
the flowers are faded, it is well to arrange the
border so that plants later in making their growth,
such as Michaelmas Daisies, perennial Sunflowers
or the like, should hide the Dicentras during the
latter portion of the summer. Lupins, white,
blue and purple, are at their best in May, while by
the water blue Monkshood and Solomon's Seal
flourish abundantly, the latter also growing on the
banks in the wild garden with wood Hyacinths
and_Stars of Bethlehem. The yellow Day Lily
(Hemerocallisflava) blooms throughout the month ;
the flowers, as evanescent as their faint perfume,
closing after one day's life, but the scapes are
many- blossomed and the individual deaths are
scarcely noticed.

Beneath a tall specimen of Aralia spinosa, that
throws out a spread of Palm-like leaves, white
Violas mingle with hybrid Aquilegias, the com-
bination of colours in some of the latter being most
exquisite. The strongest seedlings, which are the
earliest to bloom, may generally be pulled up and
consigned to the rubbish heap, as they usually pro-
duce coarse, double flowers. Those that come
later are often of exceptional delicacy, both of
form and colour ; dark yellow corollas contrasting
with violet or red perianths, white with blue —
gradations of pale pink, cream, silvery grey,
faintest saffron and dead white — very poems of
colour ; while the shapes are equally diverse and
pleasing — some with the spurs long, slender and
straight, others with the extremities turning in-
wards, giving the effect of the bird- neck of dove
(Columba) or eagle (Aquila), from which the flower
takes its dual names.

The Lily of the Valley beds have never before
given such a bountiful supply of bloom, tall,
large-belled spikes having been gathered by the
handful for indoor use, the rooms and passages
of the house being filled with their delicate fra-
grance. One of the sweetest scented flowers that
blows — the old double white Rocket — is also a
May, or rather a May and June flowerer. A
clump of a dozen plants has thrown up fine heads
of bloom amongst a colony of Geum coccineum,
the scarlet of whose flowers sets off the lavender-
tinged white of the Rockets. On an evening after
a shower this corner of the garden is absolutely
filled with perfume. Rockets are now seldom
grown in the gardens of the rich, but are often
to be found in abundance in those of the poor,
the cottager's taste being conservative in garden
matters. A space of the rockery has been covered
with the Gentianella's blue of blues, while Aubrie-
tias, Alyssum, Rockfoils of many kinds, Veronica
prostrata, Mimulus and Myosotis palustris have
added their varied tints to the green of the young
Fern leaves and the red-grey of the stones. Ac
the foot of the rockwork, where the water runs
away in a cup-shaped hollow, the variegated
Water Flag grows, and is in the spring a striking
object. With the advent of summer, however,
thevariegation is lost, but the broad, sword-shaped
leaves are always handsome. A Wistaria — whose
trunk is as thick as a man's leg — which rambles
along the top of an old wall 60 feet in length,
has roofed the Lichen-covered stones with pale
purple scented flower-eaves fully 2 feet deep.
Laburnum, lilac and pink Thorn have bloomed
profusely, as has Choisya ternata, which seems
totally uninjured by the past severe winter.
Single Deutzia and Guelder Rose have also blos-
somed well ; Clematis montana and Honeysuckle
festooning arches and wreathing the trunks of
some old hollow trees with the delicate tracery of

their flowering tendrils. A large-flowered white
Clematis, possibly alba magna, which ha? mingled
with the Devoniensis by the porch, has usurped
almost the whole of the trellis for the display of
its great stars, which have now ascended as far
as the upper windows. Roses on the walls have
been giving unsparing supplies of flowers. A
Safrano on a southern exposure, from which a
handful of perfect buds was picked on December
30, was the first to bloom, commencing on May 2.
Then in quick succession came yellow and white
Banksian, Reve d'Or, Rubens, Niphetos, Gloire
de Dijon, Devoniensis, Mme. Lambard, andliloire
Lyonnaise, and on the 30th a beautiful Mme.
Lambard from the open bed. Four varieties of
Poppies have been in flower, clumps with a
dozen or more great blooms of tho giant Oriental
Poppy (Papaver bracteatum) a blaze of vivid
scarlet. The sight of this Poppy reminds one of
Ruskin's words, " Wherever men are noble they
love bright colour, and wherever they can live
healthily bright colour is given them in sky, sea,
flowers, and living creatures." The graceful
Welsh Poppy (Meconopsis cambrica), with droop-
ing yellow heads and deeply- fretted foliage, out-
lines year by year the rough stone edging of
a portion of the wild garden, reproducing
itself without interference. Papaver pilosum,
a little-known Poppy, whose fragile brick-col-
oured blossoms are borne in great profusion
throughout the spring and summer, is also a May
subject, and being hardy and easily increased
should be added to any collection not possessing

In the warm spring evenings when the sunlight
1 shone through the young green of the Beech
leaves — which, indeed, is one of the most beauti-
ful sights in Nature — when the woodquests sailed
round in the still air or cooed to their mates in
the immemorial Elms, and the cream-coloured
doves darted swiftly across the lawn to the ivied
Walnut tree in which they had built their first
al fresco nest ; when long shadows lay upon the
Grass and the day was going to its perfumed rest,
one counted those as lost hours that were not
spent in the garden. S. W. F.

GYPSOPHILA CERASTIOIDES.
The Gypsophila best known in gardens is the
graceful spreading G. paniculata, so elegant
when arranged with other cut flowers, but the
family contains several other pretty species, one
of which is here shown. G. cerastioides is a
charming rock plant, only growing about 2
inches high, but spreading about in a pretty
way, the slender shoots clothed with narrow
leaves an inch or more in length, the flowers
appearing in their axils in small clusters. They
are about half an inch across and white, with
slight streaks of violet. It comes from the
north of India, is the finest flowered kind in
cultivation, and a fast growing plant in a suit-
able open position. G. prostrata is also a charm-
ing species, of a trailing habit, its
flowers, white or pink, borne in
loose panicles late in summer.

Books.

Gypsophila cerastioides.

it. The Iceland Poppies, orange, white, and yel-
low, make patches of colour here and there ;
patches whose edges have been irregularly
widened by self-sown seedlings. It is, perhaps,
to the Pa'onies and the Oerman Irises, however,
that May should rightly belong, since these give
but little of their splendour to other months.
New Tree Poeonies are now raised in such quanti-
ties that one's favourites are soon elbowed out
into the "general collection," but fragrans,
lactea, Louise Monchelet, Reine Elizabeth, and
Triomphe de Vandermael are all excellent varie-
ties, carrying flowers of taking Bhades that dwarf
those of the old Pitony Moutan into comparative
insignificance. The herbaceous section are no less
decorative, from the old double crimson and rose
forms down to the pure single white flowers of P.
albiflora and P. Emodi. German Irises have for the
most part bloomed excellently, there having been
an almost total absence of wind and rain to mar
their petals. A pleasing effect has been obtained
by the planting of a mass of Iris flavescens by the
side of I. pallida, the light yellow of the former
contrasting delightfully with the pale mauve of
the latter. All the rest of the I. germanica sec-
tion, twelve in all, flowered well with the excep-
tion of I. Princess of Wales, the best white,
which, seemingly, has a poor constitution. Bam-
busa viridi-glaucescens is sending up strong
shoots as proof that the winter has not harmed it,
but the great standard Magnolia grandiflora,
which bore over 200 flowers last year, will have
none this.

LES PLANTES BULBEUSES
TTTBERCULEUSES ET RHI-
ZOMATEUSES ORNAMEN-
TALES DE SERRE ET DE
PLEINE TERRE.*

This is very well done by a prac-
tical man. The cultivation of
these plants is dealt with in the
first place, and the rest of the
work is an alphabetical arrange-
ment in which generally a very
sufficient account of each plant is given. It is
a useful little bonk, and will, we hope, be duly
translated into English at no distant date. If
we have any fault to find, it is with the names
which are given under some of the cuts, and
which would lead to some confusion, as, for
instance (p. 374), Iris reticulata is not properly
named after M. Dammann. As an example of
the author's method we take the genus called
Crinum (p. 17<i) : —

Ckinum (Lin., Crinole amaryllidees ; C. abyssini-
eum, Hocht. ; Abyssinia, 1892). — Leaves long,
erect, stalk stout, 10 inches to 24 inches in height,
ending with an umbel of from six to eight hori-
zontal-limbed white flowers ; the pipe is arched
and about 4 inches to 6 inches in length. A very
handsome plant.

C. africanum. — Vide Agapanthus umbellatus.

C. amabile (Don., C. superbum, Sumatra,
1810). — Medium sized bulb, the neck long. Leaves
erect and lance-shaped, in length 1 yard to li
yards, and in breadth 4 inches to 4J inches ; the
stalk, from 32 inches to 1 yard, is depressed and
bears an umbel of fifteen to twenty strongly per-
fumed flowers ; the pipe is 4 inches to 4J inches
long and bright red, the limb of equal length and
rose-pink. It is a summer-blooming hothouse
plant.

* " Les Plantes Bulbeuses, Tuberculeuses et Rhizo-
mateuses Omamentales de Serre et de Pleine Terre."
Par D. Guiheuouf. Avec 227 figures. Octave Doin,
8, Place de l'Odeon, Paris.

June 15, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

423

C. americanfm (Lin., Centr. Amur., 1752). —
Oval-shaped bulb, the neck short ; leaves arched
and from 2S inches to 30 inches in length ; the
stalk from 20 inches to 28 inches, terminating in
an umbel of four to six white sweet-smelling
flowers ; the pipe 4 inches to 4^ inches in length,
with limb of same length. A summer-blooming
hothouse plant.

C. AMCENUM (Roxb., India, 1807). — Round thick
bulb. A summer-blooming hothouse plant with
very sweet-scented pure white flowers, the pipe a
greenish rose colour.

C. AQUATicuM(Burch. ). — Vide C. campanulatum.

C. asiaticum, Lin., C. toxicarium.

C. declinatum (Trop. Asia, 1732). — Thick bulb,
4 inches across by 6 inches to 8 inches long ; the
leaves each a yard in length ; stalk depressed, 20
inches to 24 inches and terminating in an umbel
of twenty flowers ; the pipe greenish and 4 inches
in length, the peiianth white. Greenhouse plant
and also hardy.

C. australe. — Vide C. pedunculatum.

C. Balfouri (Baker, Socotra, 1880). — An Oc-
tober-blooming greenhouse plant with sweet-
smelling pure white flowers.

C. Broussonetti. — Vide Amaryllis Broussonetti.

O. caffrum. — Vide C. campanulatum.

C. CAMPANrLATUM(Herb. ), C.aquaticum (Burch.),
C. caffrum (Herb.), the Cape, 1817. — Oval-shaped
bulb, the leaves a yard long, the stalk 24 inches
long and terminating in an umbel of from five
to six flowers of a brilliant red colour. A hardy
plant, but difficult to bloom.

C. canaliculatum. — Vide Amaryllis pedun-
culata.

C. candelabrum. — Vide Amaryllis orientalis.

C. capense. — Vide C. longifolium.

C. Careyanum (Herb., Mauritius, 1821). — A
very thick globe-shaped bulb, the leaves and stalk
each 12 inches long, terminating in an umbel of
rive to six white flowers, with reddish stain. Hot-
house and greenhouse plants, blooming in autumn.

C. Colensoi. — Vide Crinum Moorei.

C. DECLINATUM. — Vide C. asiaticum.

C. distichum (Herb., Sierra Leone). — Small-sized
bulb, leaves and stalk each 12 inches long, very
large single flowers in summer, 8 inches in length
and a bright red colour, grown in the greenhouse
with a moderate temperature.

C. erueescens (Ait., Trop. Amer., 1780). — Globe-
shaped bulb, leaves 32 inches and stalk 24 inches
in length. A greenhouse plant, producing in
summer an umbel of ten to twelve flowers, a
purple-red colour.

C. falcatum. — Vide Amaryllis falcata.

C. Forbesianum (Herb.), Amaryllis Forbesi
(Lindl .), Delagoa, 1824.— Very thick bulb, 6 inches
to 8 inches in diameter, the leaves from 1 yard to
1 yard 10 inches, the stalk 24 inches long. A
greenhouse plant, blooming in October, producing
umbels of thirty to fort}' very large, white, highly-
scented flowers, reddish on the outsides.

C. giganteum. — Vide Amaryllis ornata.

C. Herbertianum. — Vide Amaryllis ornata.

O. Kirki (Baker, Zanzibar, 1,879). — Globe-shaped
and very thick bulb, the leaves 1 yard and the
stalk 20 inches in length. A hothouse plant,
blooming in October and bearing an umbel of
fifteen to twenty very long, white, rose-tinted
flowers; the pipe greenish and the limb deflected.

C. longiflorum (Herb., C. capense, Amaryllis
longifolia, the Cape, 1810). — Very thick bulb with
the neck much extended ; leaves glaucous, nu-
merous, and a yard long ; the stalk of equal
length. Blooms in July and August, producing
an umbel of twelve to fifteen large, sweet-smelling,
infundibuliform (?) white flowers, the outer parts
being rose colour. This is the hardiest of all the
Crinums.

C. longiflorum album. — A variety of the pre-
ceding, having pure white flowers. This is one
of the finest of the hardy species and no garden
should be without it. Plant in deep light soil on
a warm situation. In winter surround the bulb
with sand and cover with dry leaves or Moss.
Increased by division of the bulbs, which root in
pots in beds.

C. longifolium, Thunb. ; Amaryllis longifolia,
Linn. ; the Cape, 1752. — Very thick bulbs ; the
leaves 20 inches to 1 yard in length. Stalk 12
inches to 20 inches. A very beautiful plant, bear-
ing in summer eight to ten flowers, stained red,
3 inches to 4 inches in length, with pipe of same
length. Culture : plant in the open air like C.
longiflorum.

C. Mackeni. — Vide C. Moorei.

C. Macoyanum. — Vide C. Moorei.

C. Macowani (Baker, Natal, 1874).— Bulb 8
inches to 10 inches in diameter, leaves 32 inches
to a yard in length, stalk 1 yard. Flowers in
November, producing an umbel of twelve to fif-
teen large-sized scented flowers, each 0 inches to
8 inches long, and white tinged with purple. It
is best grown in a pot, having regard to the late-
ness of its bloom.

C. Makoyanum. — Vide C. Moorei.

C. Moorei (Hook.), C. Colensoi, C. Mackeni, C.
natalense, C. Makoyanum, Natal, 1874. — Thick
bulb, the neck long ; leaves a yard long, stalk
24 inches long ; summer-blooming, producing an
umbel of eight to ten flowers ; the stalk long and
greenish ; perianth white and stained red. Re-
quires the same treatment as

C. longiflorum, C. natalense. — Vide C. Moorei.

C. nervosum. — Vide Eurycles amboinensis.

C. ornatum. — Vide Amaryllis ornata.

C. pedunculatum (R. Br.), C. australe, C. canali-
culatum, C. taitense, Australia, 1700. — Thick
bulb, leaf a yard long, stalk 32 inches ; summer-
blooming greenhouse plant, producing umbels of
twenty to thirty flowers ; the pipe greenish, wide
opened white segments.

C. petiolatum. — Vide Amaryllis ornata.

C. Powelli.— A hybrid of C. longifolium and
C. Moorei ; flowers reddish ; grown in the green-
house for trial out of doors.

C. purpurescens (Herb.), Fernando l'o, L826.
— Oval-shaped, medium-sized bulb, leaves 2S.V
inches long, stalk 12 inches ; a summer-blooming
hothouse plant, producing an umbel of six to
eight wine-red flowers.

C. revolutum. — Hybrid ; medium-sized deli-
cately tinted flowers ; the pipe long and white,
each petal divided in the middle by a violet-rose-
coloured stripe. Blooms in August.

C. riparium (Herb.), Amaryllis cinnamomea,
W. Africa. — Leaves 32 inches to a yard long, un-
dulating, and tinged with red ; stalk 1 yard ;
bears an umbel of fifteen to twent}' highly odorous
flowers of deep purple colour, edged with
white. Cultivate in the greenhouse for trial in
the open air.

C. Roozeniaxum (OBrien, Jamaica, 1881). —
Flower red outside and white within. For the
hothouse.

C. Sanderianum (Baker, Sierra Leone, 1884). —
Brown Pear-shaped bulb, 4 inches in diameter,
and neck long ; leaves few and close ; stalk de-
pressed, 20 inches long, terminating in an umbel
of four long-petalled white flowers, 6 inches to 8
inches long, the divisions narrow and the centre
stripe a brown-purple. Under glass, with moderate
temperature. Time of bloom not fixed.

C. speciosum. — Vide Amaryllis purpurea.

C. superbum. — Vide C. amabile.

C. taitense. — VideC pedunculatum.

C. vanillaodorum. — VideC. giganteum.

C. yemenense. — Bulb very thick, with long
neck ; leaves numerous, waving, and a yard in
length ; bears in summer on a stout stalk ten to
twenty flowers, the pipes of which are very long.
In winter under glass, with moderate temperature
or greenhouse ; in summer, the open air.

C. Y'Ucc.eflorum. — Vide Amaryllis Broussonetti.
C. zeylanicum. — Vide Amaryllis ornata.
C. toxicarium.— Vide C. asiaticum.

Hothouse Species.

Plant in roomy pots on fr*e, sandy, light, but
rich dry soil. After the plant has rested keep the
atmosphere warm and humid; apply a little
liquid manure on the appearance of the floral
stems. The bloom is of very long duration.
When the flowers begin to fade decrease by de-
grees the waterings and keep the plants compara-

tively dry for two months, not, however, to the
extent of making them suffer. This period of re-
pose is necessary to assist the development of the
floral stems. Re-pot every two years at the end
of the period of repose. These beautiful plants
bloom in summer, but at no fixed time, as the
flowers can be produced at all seasons by cultiva-
tion more or less forced. The period of bloom
lasts longer if after the flowers are fully open the
plants be transferred from the hothouse to a more
temperate atmosphere.

Oct of doors.

The hardy species are grown like Amaryllis
vittata, i.e., care being taken to plant well apart
and to cover the bulbs in winter with sand, Moss,
or dry leaves. Increase by division of the bulb,
taking care to preserve some of the root to each
division, and when sufficiently strong place in
pots in beds until they strike root. Some species
give very few bulbs, and in this case recourse
must be had to seed. These, which are large,
must be sown separately in pots large enough to
avoid disturbance of the roots in planting out.
When the seedlings are strong enough they are
again placed in pots at intervals of time and
transferred to the temperate house for treatment
as fully grown plantB. The roots of Crinums
ought never to be cut.

Horses, Asses, Zebras, Mules and Mule

Breeding.* — The many books that have been
written on the equine race have by no means ex-
hausted the subject, and the existence of the
present work is well justified by its contents.
The outcome of the authors' labours has been to
collect, in one handy volume of some 100 pages,
results of the experiences of recent travellers
respecting the history and habits of species
hitherto imperfectly known and generally thought
to be untamable— species like Prefevalski's horse
and Grevy's mule, which have recently been im-
pressed into the service of man, and from which
new and valued hybrids have been obtained.
But chiefly the authors have succeeded in supple-
menting the very scanty knowledge which has
hitherto obtained in England in remarkable con-
trast to other civilised countries regarding the
great value and economy of the mule as a beast of
draught and burden for agricultural purposes as
well as others. In this respect the authors may
be congratulated on having produced a work of
great practical interest and value. The book,
which is well printed and illustrated with some
excellent engravings, has an appendix containing
a memorandum on " Mule Breeding in India."

The American Chrysanthemum Annual.f
— One of the American gardening papers, when
reviewing the recently published Year-Book
of the National Chrysanthemum Society, called
attention to the necessity for some such publica-
tion in the States, where the Chrysanthemum
claims almost as much attention as it does in this
country. Mr. Barker's annual is an entirely new
venture, and one that is executed in a very credit-
able manner and contains much that will interest
American and English growers alike. Portraits
of eminent authorioies are given, the frontispiece
being that of Mr. John Thorpe, the father of the
Chrysanthemum in America. Some full-paged
illustrations of new seedlings also embellish the
work, the celebrated Japanese incurved Phila-
delphia being, of course, included. Many of the
writers and the topics selected are, of course,
American, but the editor has adopted a compre-
hensive programme and obtained reports from
eminent growers and authorities in different parts
of the world. Thus, we find England represented
by Mr. C. E. Shea, Mr. Shoesmith and Mr. Har-
man-Payne, Belgium by M. O. de Meulenaere

* " Horses, Asses, Zebras, Mules and Mule Breed-
ing." Bv W. Tegetmeier andC. L. Sutherland. Horace
Cox, Field Office, Bream's Buildings, E.C.

t '* The American Chrysanthemum Annual." By
Michael Barker. Mayflower Publishing Company,
Floral Park, New York.

424

THE GARDEN

[June 15, 1895.

(than whom perhaps no one is better qualified to
speak), Australia by Mr. H. J. Carter, of Sydney,
New Zealand by Mr. John Dutton, and Canada
by Mr. Ewing. There are two illustrated articles
on diseases of Chrysanthemums, besides historical
and cultural papers. A list of new seedlings for
1895 is also given. The price is one dollar.

Trees and Shrubs.

THE WAX MYRTLE.

(myeica californica.)
The Wax Myrtles are desirable for the garden,
for though not effective as flowering shrubs,
they possess a most delightful spicy fragrance.
Our native species, M. Gale, should find a place
in every collection of sweet-smelling plants,
and we find it free and vigorous in close wet
soil where few things would succeed. It loses
its leaves in winter. The Californian Wax
Myrtle is evergreen, retaining its fragrant
leaves throughout the winter. It makes a hand-
some bush in England, but is rarely seen outside
of botanical collections. The illustration here
given is of a fruiting branch, and Mr. Burbank
says that in California this species is an upright
growing tree, the trunk often attaining a dia-
meter of from 1 foot to 2 feet.

shall find them a mass of fibrous roots. It is a
pity the tree was planted on the site it occupies,
but I imagine the planter had not the slightest
idea it was likely to attain its present dimensions.
If any Garden readers have seen the tree in its
native habitat, the valleys of the Caucasian range,
perhaps they will kindly give a little information
respecting it. — E. Bcrrell, Claremont.

Rhododendron Smimowi. — I was pleased to
see that this distinct Rhododendron was flowering
at Kew, and would like to ask if any reader of The
Garden has up to the present flowered R. Ungerni,
which was introduced at the same time? Our plants
were obtained from seed sent by the late Dr.
Regel, so that they should be correct, but there is

Sambucus racemosaplumosaaurea.— This
promising variety of the scarlet berried Elder
(Sambucus racemosa) received an award of merit
at the R.H.S. meeting on May 14. The cut-
leaved variety of S. racemosa has been grown for
some years under the names of serratifolia and
plumosa. The newer kind is a counterpart of
this last, except that the foliage is of a pleasing
yellow tint, and it is more than probable that as
the season advances it will (as with the golden -
leaved variety of the common Elder) acquire a
much deeper hue. In any case it bids fair to be
a valuable addition to golden-leaved shrubs, as it
appears to be equally vigorous with the typical
kind. In rather poor soils fully exposed to the
sun these Golden Elders are seen at their best,
and, unlike some other golden-leaved shrubs, they
are more effective after Midsummer than they are
before that time. Of the common Elder there are
several varieties remarkable for foliage distinc-
tions, notably variegata, the leaves of which are
marked with white; heterophylla and laciniata,
two cut-leaved forms; and rotund if olia, with
rounder leaflets than those of the ordinary kind.
— T.

Pterocarya caucasica. — Our large specimen
of the above-named tree has for several years appa-
rently grown so fast that I was induced the other
day to hunt up the note and accompanying illus-
tration published in The Garden in 1888 with
the view to ascertain what progress had actually
been made. I find the spread of branches was
therein given (and the measurement was an accu-
rate one) as 75 yards ; at the present time it is
exactly 90 yards, a convincing proof, I think,
that, given a favourable soil and situation, it
grows, for an old tree, at a phenomenal rate.
The extremities of the lower branches on all sides,
being so far from the stem, have dropped close to
the ground, helped thereto by the wealth of
foliage and the long, heavy catkins, some of which
this year are more than 20 inches in length and
studded nearly throughout with the curious nail-
like appendages. I think this is one of the most
beautiful of all exotic trees ; certainly one might
travel many miles before finding anything to
approach it in its grand symmetrical proportions,
its fine foliage and unique fruit. The restrictive
measures which on more than one occasion I have
been compelled to adopt to keep the roots from
encroaching on Vine and hardy fruit borders
have seemed to give it new life, and I am inclined
to think when next the trenches are opened we

there is a doubt in my mind ; hence, if any corre-
spondent of The Garden has flowered it, I should
feel greatly obliged for the information. — H. P.

Weigela Eva Rathke. — Among the first
flowering Weigelas is the old VV. rosea and its
improved variety Abel Carriere ; then afterwards
we have a great many of the darker flowered
forms. The flowers of these are as a rule not so
widely expanded as those of W. rosea, but in some
cases they possess the merit of flowering con-
tinuously for some time. One of the best of this
group is W. Eva Rathke, whose blossoms are of a
bright red tint and borne in great profusion. It
forms a neat-growing bush, and is, like all of its
class, perfectly hardy. So continuously does this
flower, that when it was shown in such good con-
dition as to be awarded a first-class certificate the
summer had almost left us, for it was then the
end of August, and Clerodendron trichotomum,
always regarded as an autumn-flowering shrub,
was at that time in full bloom. W. Eva RathkiS
is just now laden with blossoms, so that if a
scattered succession is kept up till the end of
August it will be a valuable shrub. Another
long-flowering variety is Gloire des Bosquets.
which is of a paler hue than the preceding ; and of
white-flowered forms W. Candida is the most per-
sistent. All Weigelas have been remarkably fine
this season. Where it is intended to propagate
any of the Weigelas this is a very good time to
increase them by cuttings, which should be formed
of the young growing shoots (not the most
vigorous ones) dibbled into pots, pans or boxes of
sandy soil, and placed in a cold frame and kept
close and shaded when necessary till rooted. — T.

Azalea mollis. — There are a few things that,
everyone who is commencing to stock a garden
with hardy flowers should lose no time in plant-
ing. Some of our best hardy flowers grow so
rapidly that one may expect to see them at their
best in the course of two or three seasons, but it
is not so in the case of such things as Pa^onies,
Hepaticas, Hellebores, Azaleas, &c, which, being
comparatively slow of growth, are some years
before they yield the full measure of their beauty.
Nothing can be finer than good-sized specimens of
Azalea mollis when in full bloom, but unless one
begins with fair-sized specimens, one must wait a
decade or more to see them really effective. In
Mr. G. E. Wilson's garden at Weybridge there
are some plants which this year were wonderfully
effective. They were planted about twenty years
ago, and, soil and situation being congenial, they
have formed handsome specimens some 8 feet high
and of proportionate breadth. These hardy Aza-
leas are quite as beautiful and as effective as their
relatives of the greenhouse, and so hardy and
enduring, that the severest winter does not harm,
and time heightens their beauty. They are gor-
geous when massed, but I like them best when
they are so far isolated that each plant can de-
velop without contact with its neighbours. —
J. C. B.

The Wans Myrtle (Myrica calijornica). From a
photograph sent by Mr. L. Burbank, Santa
- Rosa, California.

a very great resemblance between the two. The
plants of R. Smirnowi are characterised by a
more sturdy habit of growth, while the young
leaves are covered on the undersides with a dense
woolly tomentum of a dazzling whiteness, which
changes to a browner tint on the adult foliage.
In R. Ungerni the leaves are somewhat longer
and the tomentum is a little less dense, while the
plant does not branch so freely as R. Smirnowi.
As figured in the Gartenflora some eight years ago
or more, the flowers of R. Smirnowi are red, and
those of R. Ungerni white. Not having induced
our plants to flower yet, I cannot speak with cer-
tainty as to the correctness of their nomenclature,
but feel confident that those grown as R. Smir-
nowi are quite correct. Concerning R. Ungerni

Notes from Chester. — The full wealth of
summer glory now presses itself to the front, and
the foliage damage for which the frost was
responsible is now scarcely to be detected any-
where. The delicacy of the spring foliage is
followed by such an abundance of floral beauty,
that the season seems to be one of the richest
through which we have passed for many years.
We send you a few sprays from some of the more
prominent flowering shrubs. Viburnum plicatum,
with its masses of bloom, big petals, like the
Hydrangea, and bold deep-coloured foliage to set
off the showy inflorescence, is a charming plant
in its place in the open, and just now, with the
Philadelphus, commanding the attention of those
who come within sight of it. We send a spray of
Philadelphus coronarius aureus to bear out what
we say. Belie: 1 3 indeed is the beautiful Spirsa
Reevesiana, with its Deutzia-like double flowers.
There are many other free-blooming white-flower-
ing shrubs beautiful just now, but to give some
colour variation we have sent a spray of Colutea
I arborescens, an excellent shrub for town planting,

June 15, 1895. J

THE GARDEN

425

and Robinia hispida rosea, which is most distinct,
its great flowered pink tresses hanging thickly
and gracefully from its branches. Weigela Stelz-
neri is a charming feature in the shrubbery. Its
flowers are bold in form and rich in colour.
Roses and Irises fill wide breadths of garden
ground with gorgeous colour, and here and there
6eas of flame mark the beds where the Poppies
grow. — DlOKSONS, Chester.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

JUNE, 11.

Taking into consideration the fact that only
three weeks have elapsed since the splendid dis-
play at the Temple Gardens, it is surprising that
such a magnificent exhibition should have been
brought together in the Drill Hall on Tuesday.
Three tables stretched through the Hall, and on
either side were two others, all crowded with a
great diversity of exhibits. Another most pleasing
fact was the large attendance. Such a gathering as
that of last Tuesday clearly shows the necessity
for more commodious premises, where not only
the light is better, but also the surroundings. The
success of these fortnightly gatherings have now
exceeded the most sanguine expectations of their
promoters.

Having regard to the late specially fine exhi-
bition of Orchids at the Temple Hardens from
both trade and private growers, it would not have
seemed at all out of place had there been but a
few on this occasion. This, however, was not so,
for it was in many respects one of the finest, if
not the very finest, displays of these flowers ever
seen in the Drill Hall. Proportionately more
certificates were awarded than at the Temple
show, and some few most decided acquisitions
were to be noted, prominent amongst these being
the pure white form of Cypripedium bellatulum.
Two other notable exhibits that received the
higher award were Cattleya superba alba (of
white forms of coloured species there appears to
be no end) and C. gigas Sandera', of intensely
deep colour. The medal awarded at this meeting
to the best hybrid Orchid not yet in commerce
was given to Phaius Cooksoni, a paler hybrid
than P. Owenianus and scarcely so beautiful. Of
specimen Orchids, particular note should be made
of Loelia purpurata Schnedera', of which a large
specimen was staged in rude health ; another of
Dendrobium thyrsiflorum was of unusually rich
colouring, whilst of Cattleyas there were several
good specimen plants. A small specimen was
shown of Cypripedium caudatum Wallisi, every
growth of which was flowering.

Hardy cut flowers were strongly represented,
Freonies being to the fore. Tea-scented Roses
Mere of splendid quality. Two notable plants
were those of Blandfordia aurea, of which a superb
example was sent, also of Carpenteria californica.
Several choice foliage plants were shown, includ-
ing a grand specimen of Dracama Sanderiana,
exhibited by its introducers.

Fruits were chiefly represented by early Straw-
berries in fine examples, two very promising new
Melons, both from one source, and by well coloured
Lord Napier Nectarines. Vegetables comprised a
large number of well-ripened Tomatoes, several
fine dishes of Peas and Cauliflowers, with other
early produce from under glass and the open air.

Orchid Committee.

First-class certificates were awarded to the
following : —

Cirrhopetaldm robustum, an extra fine species,
more robust than many and far more interesting
in point of colour, which is a pale golden shade,
with a soft suffusion of green, the labellum being
of a dark maroon tint. The spike bore eight
flowers ; the bulbs are stout and fleshy. An in-
troduction from New Guinea. From Messrs.
James Veitch and Sons.

Cattleya superba alba, a white form of this
richly-coloured species ; the sepals and petals are
milky white, with a perceptible trace of green on
the reverse ; the lip also is white, there being a
slight touch of pale citron colour on its central
part. From Mr. Thos. Statter.

Cypripedium bellatulum album was beyond
any question the most remarkable exhibit in the
Hall. It is a pure white form, without spot or
colour of any shade, being a truly white variety
of the species, having the form of its best varie-
ties, with great breadth of petal, whilst the lip is
slightly elongated- quite a gem. From Sir F.
Wigan's collection at Clare Lodge, East Sheen.

Cattleya gigas Sander.*. — A superbly coloured
form of this fine species, more deeply shaded than
any variety previout-ly shown. The sepals and
petals are of a deep rosy mauve, the latter a darker
shade, being also notable by their breadth ; the
labellum, as in all forms of C. gigas, is a notable
feature, the colour being greatly intensified, a rich
vinous-purple tint, with the edge beautifully fim-
briated, the blotches on either side of the throat
being very conspicuous and the golden veining
well defined. From Mr. Hamar Bass, Burton-on-
Trent.

Awards of merit were adjudged to the follow-
ing, viz. : —

Renanthera Imschootiana, which, compared
with the older, but still all too scarce R. coccinea,
is of quite dwarf and compact growth. The plant
in question bore but nine leaves, each some 4
inches long, the entire plant no more than (i
inches in height, yet it bore a handsome arching
spike of fourteen flowers, sanguineous-red in
colour, and of good size, with the peculiar form
seen in this genus. The species in question is very
rare, there being but two plants known to be
under cultivation. From Mr. Ed. H. Woodall,
St. Nicholas House, Scarborough.

L.-elia grandis (Wigan's var ). — A very distinct
form of the type, with the flowers scarcely so
large, but of handsome colouring, the sepals and
petals being of old gold colour, the lip having
reddish purple veins on a pale terra-cotta-pink
ground. From Sir F. Wigan.

L.elia purpurata Richmond Gem. — A very
fine form with flowers of extra size and vigour ;
the sepals and petals white, with but a very
slight flush, the lip larger than usual and of an
intensely deep purple, having the beautiful mark-
ings as seen in L. purpurata Brysiana. From
Sir F. Wigan.

Cypripedium Elenor (C. selligerum majus x
C. superbiens). — Another specially fine hybrid
with broad drooping petals, freely spotted, the
dorsal sepal large and well marked, somewhat
after C. Lawrenceanum. Two spikes bore two
flowers on each, which were of massive propor-
tions. From Sir Trevor Lawrence.

Cypripedium Frau Ida Brandt, an exceedingly
fine and interesting hybrid, inasmuch as both of its
parents are themselves hybrids, the one being
C Iogrande (C. Argus xC. Lawrenceanum), and
the other C. Youngianum(C. superbiensxC. Roe-
belini). The flowers are unusually large and of
fine proportions ; the petals retain the peculiar
spotting characteristic of C. Argus, are 4 inches
in length, of drooping form and of extra breadth,
the ground colour a metallic pink. The dorsal
sepal takes after C. Lawrenceanum, but is some-
what of a lighter shade, suffused with a bronzy
purple hue, being angular in shape ; the lip is of
extra size and as prominent as in C. Curtisi. From
Messrs. Sander and Co.

The special prize — offered on this occasion for
the best seedling Orchid not exhibited previous to
January 1, 1895 — was adjudged to —

Piiaius Cooksoni (P. flumbloti x P. grandi-
florus), which has much of the habit and character
of P. Owenianus (another finehyhiid), the flowers
and growth being thus far of similar proportions.
The sepals and petals are of a pale terra-cotta
pink, self-coloured, the lip being broad, with the
lower portion of a deep rose tint and the sides of
a bronzy red. It was awarded a silver-gilt Flora
medal. From Mr. Norman Cookson, Wylam-on-
Tyne.

Botanical certificates were given notably to the
five following species of Masdevallia, all belonging
to the dwarf section of the genus : M. campylo-
glossa, M. gemmata, very minute ; M. Wagneri,
small yellow ; M. muscosa, singularly pretty ; and
M. demissa. All from the collection of Mr. R. J.
Measures. The same award was made to Scuti-
caria Hadweni, greenish yellow and brown, the
lip pale rose, and Oncidium insculptum, a pretty,
if not showy species, both shown by Mr. Walter
C. Walker ; and to Sarcanthus Williamsoni, growth
very dwarf, the spike bearing small dark flowers,
and Bifrenaria vitellina, both coming from Messrs.
W. L. Lewis and Co.

Messrs. Sander and Co. showed a remarkably
choice group, effectively arranged, with well-
grown foliage plants. It comprised four large
masses of Odontoglossum vexillarium, soma with
deep rosy pink shades, and others of lighter tints,
but all fine varieties; one of the lighter kinds
named F. W. Moore had flowers of tine propor-
tions. Laelia Lucasiana was quite a miniature,
with rosy purple flowers, the lip being a pale
golden self, each blossom would not be more than
1 4 inches in diameter. Cattleya gigas was shown
of extra quality, notable both for the breadth of
the lip and the deep colouring. Phaius Owen-
ianus, a richly coloured hybrid, was present, also
Cypripedium Svend Brun (C. Lowi X C. Curtisi),
a noteworthy hybrid, retaining in the main the
features of C. Lowi, but darker in colour. On-
cidium serratum, a fine specimen, was shown full
of bloom, its dark flowers being almost as large
as 0. macranthum. Cattleya Mossire was repre-
sented by one particularly fine variety, in which
the rosy purple of the lip was almost supplanted
by a rich shade of deep golden yellow, being most
effective ; Thunia Veitchi inagnifica, with white,
slightly flushed sepals and petals, and the
lip somewhat darker, with old gold and pale
purple markings, and a stout growth ; Thunia
Bsnsonia' grandiflora, one of the parents of
the latter, was also shown. Of Angraicum Fournier-
ianum a good example was to be seen ; the failing
in this species appears to be that of casting its
terminal flower buds. Epidendrum vitellinum
majus, a mass in profuse flower, and a grand plant
of Lrelia grandis tenebrosa were both striking, the
latter being rarely seen so good. Dendrobium
Johnson* was shown in good condition; it is a
singular looking, but handsome species with pure
transparent white flowers, the sepals narrow and
pointed, the petals broad and arrow-shaped the
lip marked towards the throat with dark purplish
veins ; the spikes are erect, being produced freely
upon the old bulbs. Cypripedium Numa (hyb.) in
the way of C. Stonei ; Sobralia Veitchi rosea, a
charming species, possibly the finest of all the
genus, with a pale rosy purple lip of great breadth,
the sepals and petals a light rose ; Odontoglossum
luteo purpureum ; O. mulus splendens and
O. hystrix each had fine spikes in excellent con-
dition ; O. erispum in one instance was represented
by a singularly distinct form, with the sepals
blotched with pale oak colour, the petals bsing
pure white (very fine) ; Sobralia Kienastiana, pure
white with pale lemon colour in the throat ;
Masdevallia Veitchi and Vanda teres with Aendes
expansum were all included in this exhibit; also
Am- uloa eburnea, Dendrobium Phahvnopsis Schrce-
derianum. Cattleya dolosa, and Masdevallia Roezli.
A silver-gilt Flora medal was awarded.

Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons had a good exhibit,
comprising several of their unique hybrids.
Amongst these were beautiful examples of Uisa
Veitchi and D. Langleyensis, also Lailio-Cattleya
Canhamiana, a hybrid between Cattleya Mossue
and La-lia purpurata, and L.-C. Arnoldiana.
Note should also be made of the finejorms ot
Lrelia purpurata, one extra good, a most vigorous
plant ; Cypripedium Clonius, a distinct and beau-
tiful hybrid of the Selenipedium section ; Angrai-
cum falcatum, a good mass, with numbers ot its
small pure white flowers ; Cypripedium Stonei
with four flowers on the one spike ; Odontoglos-
sum cordatum, very good, with several spikes;
0. Pescatorei, O. vexillarium and O. cnspum
in variety ; Cypripedium superbiens, extra fane ;

426

THE GARDEN

[June 15, 1895.

C. selligcrum majus and C. Lawrenceanum Hye-
anuin, bearing one flower ; and Dendrobium
Dearei, with a large spike of bloom. Other note-
worthy things were Cattleya Mossia? and a beauti-
ful form of C. Mendeli, Cattleya Warseewiczi
(C. gigas), a gocd plant, with Cypripedium
phihppense ; Oncidium macranthum, a fine va-
riety ; O. superbiens, Cypripedium Hookerianum
var. volonteanum, with cut blooms of Cattleyas,
Sobralias, and Vandas. Award silver-gilt Flora
medal.

Mr. Gurney Fowler, South Woodford, Essex,
had a nice group containing a grard specimen of
La-lia purpurata Scbru'derte with eight spikes,
each bearing four large blooms ; the purest of white
sepals and petals, with the very faint rosy lilac
veins on the otherwise white lip make this one of
the choicest light forms of this species. Dendro-
bium thyrsiflorum was another fine specimen
plant with nine large spikes of bloom, each bear-
ing flowers of extra size, there being more colour
than usual in the lip. D. Falconeri, rarely seen,
was represented by a small, but profusely- flowered
and healthy example. Another form of Lselia
purpurata was shown, with a distinct white splash
upon the lip. Odontoglossum crispum was extra
good, so also were La?lia grandis tenebrosa and
Cattleya Mendeli. Thunia Bensona> was staged
well, likewise Cattleya Warned, lichly coloured.
Phaius Owenianus was here represented by a
superb spike of intensely deep colour in the blos-
soms. Cypripedium Lawrenceanum, C. caudatum,
and C. Lowi were comprised, also two good healthy
plants of Aerides Fieldingi, each bearing a branch-
ing spike ; this group was well arranged with
light Grasses, and a silver Flora medal was
awarded.

Messrs. Hugh Low and Co. staged a good group
in their characteristic style, Cattleva Moesiae being
represented by several plants of the finest forms.
Dendrobium superbiens (macranthum), of rich
colouring, and Odontoglossum Roezli in varieties
were both seen to good advantage ; so also were
Cypripedium Curtisi and C. Curtisi viride, a pale
form, suffused with light green. Oncidium car-
thaginense, an uncommon species, and Odonto-
glossum vexillarium were shown with a beautiful
hybrid in La?lio-Cattleya Ingrami, very dwarf in
growth, but bearing two large flowers, with the
lip of a deep velvety purple and the sepals and
petals light rosy purple (Bilver Flora medal).

Messrs. B. S. Williams and Son sent a bright
group, in which Dendrobium suavissimum was
extra good ; Cypripediums were fine in masses
full of flower, and Epidendrum vitellinum majus
was in good form ; Pescitoreas were represented
by P. Lehmanni, P. Roezli and P. Roezli rosea,
the latter quite distinct ; Cattleya Aclandia? was
here to be seen, also Stanhopea Amesiana, the
beautiful creamy white species ; Aerides Houllet-
ianum and Lalia grandis tenebrosa. A silver
Banksian medal was awarded.

Mr. Pitt, Stamford Hill, again staged an excel-
lent group, in which were well-coloured forms of
Loelia grandis tenebrosa, some with the sepals and
petals of a dark coppery shade, and others of a
lighter tint ; Thunia Bensoni*, very good ; also
Anguloa Clowesi, Epidendrum vitellinum majus,
and Huntleya albido-fulva, an uncommon species.
Cypripedium hirsut-ss'mum was well coloured.
Of Masdevallia Schlimijthere was a good example ;
also several good Odontoglossums, O. Halli leuco-
glossum and O. maculatum being two of the best
Award silver Banksian medal.

Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Bradford, showed
Cattleya Mossia; versicolor, with the colouring of
the lip, as seen in the best dark forms, running
into the sepals and petals, distinct, but scarcely
desirable. Lselia grandis tenebrosa was here
represented by several plants in its best forms,
each being well flowered ; and Oncidium macran-
thum was shown in fine condition. A silver Bank-
sian medal was awarded.

Mr. Do Barri Crawshay showed Odontoglos-
sums, chiefly forms of O. crispum, each plant a
picture of health. Note should be made of Prin-
cess May, with large blooms and beautifully
fringed petals ; Pride of Rosefield, an extra large

form, the spike bearing seven fine flowers. O.
citrosmum was here to be seen in a beautiful
variety, viz., the Rosefield, having creamy yellow
sepals and petals and a pale lilac lip, very dis-
tinct and choice in colour. Ladia purpurata
Crawshayana, with the lip of a very dark purple
and the sepals and petals of a rosy purple shade,
was prominent ; so was Cattleya Mendeli. Good
forms of L.tlia purpurata were shown, and in
Cattleya Mossia; Mrs. De Barri Crawshay was to
be seen a distinct variety. A most remarkable
exhibit here was a grand form of Oncidium Mar-
shallianum called Crawshay's Giant, which well de-
scribes this plant, the spike bearing ten immense
blooms, the colouring also being very deep ; the
name, however, is scarcely a desirable one.
Vanda suavis and V. tricolor were included as
cut spikes, each being excellent. Award silver
Banksian medal.

Mr. Hamar Bass staged four fine plants of Cat-
tleya gigas Sanders, and to these a silver Bank-
sian medal was also awarded.

Messrs. W. L. Lewis and Co. sent the follow-
ing : Bifrenaria vitellina, Cattleya Mendeli,
Odontoglossum crispum and O. citrosmum, with
Cattleya Aclandia?, C. gigas, and C. Mossia;, as
well as Cypripedium Lawrenceanum and Odonto-
glossum vexillarium. Award silver Banksian
medal.

Mr. Chapman, gardener to Mr. R. J. Measures,
sent an excellent exhibit of dried Orchid blooms
mounted on paper, with the colours retained in a
remarkable degree ; so well were these specimens
executed, that a silver Flora medal was awarded,
and that most deservedly so. A few lines on the
process adopted by Mr. Chapman would be wel-
come.

Floral Committee.

First-class certificates were granted to the
following : —

Bentinckia nicobarica.— A new Palm with a
bold handsome leaf of large size and breadth,
divided irregularly into several segments of vary-
ing width. It is quite distinct from any Palm at
present grown. Shown by Messrs. F. Sander and
Son, St. Albans.

Cyrtaxthus obliquus.— A robust and striking
species, having a tall erect scape terminated by
an umbel of drooping flowers which are a light
brown or" buff-yellow, shading to clear yellow,
margined with light greer. This also came from
Messrs. Sander.

Blandfordia aurba.— A very fine specimen of
this was shown. The plant has long graceful
grassy leaves, and it had more than a dozen
flower-scapes which were 3 feet or more in height,
each carrying a fine umbel of many drooping
flowers. These are copper-yellow, shading to clear
lemon-yellow at the tips of the segments. From
Mr. Bain, gardener to Sir Trevor Lawrence,
Burford Lodge.

Awards of merit were made to the following :—

Carnation Corunna. — This is a yellow self of
fine form, with a long pod that will not burst, the
flower rich in colour. It is one of Mr. Martin
Smith's raising, and was shown by Mr. Douglas, of-
Great Bookham.

Calochortus Lvoni.— A notable addition to
this graceful family. It has large flowers of a
pale lilac colour when opening, but shading to
almost white, with dark velvet brown blotches at
the base. From Messrs. R. Wallace and Co.,
Colchester.

Iris asiatica.— A magnificent bearded Iris
with noble flowers as large again as those of I.
germanica, borne high on stout stems, the stand-
ards rich blue, the falls of a violet-blue shade.
This also came from Messrs. Wallace.

Begonia B. R. Davis.— A double-flowered kind
of a deep self crimson colour. Shown by Mr.
B. R. Davis, Yeovil.

Begonia Mont Blanc— This is also double,
and, as the name suggests, pure white. From
Mr. B. R. Davis.

Begonia Lucerne.— A distinct sort of novel
and attractive colour, the outer petals soft apricot-
yellow, shading to salmon on their edges, the

centre of the flower salmon-pink. From Mr.
B. R. Davis.

Delphinium Beauty of Langport. — This va-
riety is a distinct break in a family where blue is
quite the predominant hue. Its flowers are
creamy white, the petals prettily tipped with
pale sulphur-yellow. Shown by Messis. Kelway
and Son, Langport.

PjEony Lady Beresford. — A large - flowered
variety of a soft blush-pink shade, delicate and
beautiful. From Messrs. Kelway.

P.eony Duke of Edinburgh. — The flowers of
this kind are very double and of a deep rose
colour. Also from Messrs. Kelway.

PiKoNY Solfateree.- An elegant varietv of soft
colour, medium size and pretty shape, with outer
guard petals which are white, the centre cushion
of petals a pale cream colour. From Messrs. Barr
and Son.

STREFTOCAKrus Distinction. — This variety has
fine flowers of a clear blue colour, feathered with
violet-blue on the lower segments, and is a hand-
some kind. Shown by Messrs. J. Laing and Sons,
Forest Hill.

Rose Lawrence Allen. — A Hybrid Perpetual
kind, having large, full flowers of a clear, soft pink
shade, borne on strong, erect stems. Shown by
Messrs. G. Cooling and Son, Bath.

Rose Blanche de Coubert.— A variety of
R. rugosa having double flowers, which area little
whiter than those of Mme. G. Bruant. From
Messrs. G. Paul and Son, Cheshunt.

Inula Hookeri. — A striking orange-flowered
composite grown in all good collections of hardy
flowers and too well known to need description.
Also from Messrs. Paul and Son.

Mr. T. S. Ware, of Tottenham, received a silver
gilt Banksian medal for a grand group of hardy
flowers, in which Oriental Poppies, Irises, Lilies,
Canna Queen Charlotte and Brodia?a congesta,
with tali, robust scapes remarkably well grown,
were prominent. Choice Campanulas in spreading,
free-flowered masses, Ramondiapyrenaica, Gypso-
phila prostrata and Carnations were also note-
worthy. Messrs. Kelway, of Langport, made a great
display with P;eonies in many fine double and
single kinds, with Delphiniums and Pyrethrums.
A silver Flora medal was awarded and a similar
award was made to Messrs. Barr, who also showed
hardy flowers in variety, Paeonies predominating,
the varieties very numerous, lovely and varied in
colour. Irises, Day Lilies, Anthericums and Dic-
tamnus were all fine in this group. Messrs. J.
Veitch and Sons also made a great display with
Paonies, and two noble spikes of Eremurus robus-
tus in this group attracted much notice from
visitors. Streptocarpus in variety were also
shown, a silver Flora medal being awarded.

A very interesting group was that from Messrs.
R. Wallace and Co., Colchester, containing some
of the choicest gems among flowers of the season.
In addition to Calochortus Lyoni (previously
noted), C. albus, with about a dozen pure white
flowers gracefully disposed on a strong stem ;
C. pulchellus, of a similar character, but rich yel-
low ; and C. amunus, deep rich pink, were charm-
ing, and are bound to grow in popularity, judging
from the notice they attracted. Lilies were well
represented, a fine form of L. elegans named or-
natus being valuable for its earliness, the flowers
orange red with black spots. Another handsome
variety is incomparabile, with flowers of a deep
dark blood-red, shading to orange. L. japonicum
Colchesteri was good, with pale sulphur-yellow
flowers. Irises in many kinds were fine, especially
1. asiatica, which received an award of merit.
Some of the finest of the German varieties in cul-
tivation figured prominently in this group, and we
have never seen finer flowers of I. Lorteti than
those shown here, of noble proportions and ex-
quisite colour. Undoubtedly one of the most
beautiful, it seems also one of the easiest to grow
among the Cushion Irises. Brodia>as were charm-
ing, also the best of them — B. congesta, B. laxa
and B. capitata in blue and white. A silver
Banksian medal was awarded. Mr. Prichard, of
Christchurch, showed a chaiming group of hardy
flowers, containing several fine things not shown

June 15, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

427

in other groups, as Scabiosa caucasioa, the type
and its pure white variety ; Tropteolum Leicht-
lini, noted elsewhere ; Linaria dalmatiea, with
long spikes of yellow flowers ; Salvia Hians, a
hardy kind, of a deep violet colour; Oro-
bus lathyroides, having dense racemes of deep
blue flowers ; Lathyrus rotundifolius, an old, but
lovely perennial Pea ; Coronilla iberica, rich yel-
low ; Betonica grandiflora, handsome and well-
grown spikes ; and Gillenia trifoliata. A Bank-
sian medal was awarded. Messrs. J. Laing and
Sons staged a fine group of hardy flowers, in which
Irises, Pajonies, and Pyrethrums were prominent ;
the improved kinds of Streptocarpus were also
noticeable. A silver Banksian medal was awarded,
and a similar award was given to Messrs. Cannell
and Sons for a fine group of Cannas and Gloxinias
in great variety. A charming group of old-
fashioned, but still lovely garden Roses was
shown by Messrs. Cooling, of Bath. Rosa lutea
in single yellow and copper colour, R. polyantha
and its large-flowered variety R. rubrifolia, with
tinted leaves ; Lady Penzance, one of the prettiest
of the hybrid Sweet Briers ; and many other
sweet Roses that are in danger of being forgotten
made a welcome reappearance in this group, to
which a silver Banksian medal was awarded
Messrs. Paul and Son, of Cheshunt, received a
similar award for a group of hardy flowers, in which
dwarf Campanulas were pretty; alpine Pinks, at-
tractive in variety ; and single Roses, a prominent
feature. R. rugosa in several formswaswell shown,
also R. macrophylla, with large single flowers of a
deep pink. Mr. Mount, of Canterbury, showed
cut Roses well, a box of Captain Hayward being
conspicuous, whilst Gustave Piganeau, Princess
of Wales, The Bride, and Edith Gifford were
finely represented. A silver Banksian medal was
awarded. Mr. Prince, of Oxford, had a similar
award for cut Roses, a good lot of the variety
Clara Watson being shown. Mr. Frank Cant, of
Colchester, had a small exhibit of pretty garden
Roses, and Messrs. W. Paul and Son showed their
new Tea Rose Sylph in quantity. It is prettiest
in the bud state. A new Tea Rose named Zephyr
from the same firm looks promising for cutting,
judging from the free-flowered clusters shown.
It is of pale cream-yellow colour. Messrs. Yeitch
showed several hardy shrubs in flower, notably
Caesalpinia japonica, with long racemes of yellow
flowers; Hedysarummultijugum, which has slender
racemes of small pea shaped, magenta-red flowers.
Hypericum Moserianum tricolor, attractive in
variegation as well as in flower, and Cornus brachy-
poda variegata, Lilium Ukeyuri was prominent
also, some of the stronger stems carrying two fine
flowers.

M. Louis de Smet, Ledeberg, Ghent, showed
a pretty silvery variegated Abutilon which is
likely to become a popular foliage plant, being
so distinct from any other kind, the variegation in
the form of a broad white zone with the centre of
the leaf grey-green. Small plants only were
shown, and the committee wished to see it again.
Mr. .1. T. Bennett-Poe received a silver Banksian
medal for a splendid specimen of Carpenteria
cdifornica growing in a tub. It was the picture
nf health, quite 7 feet high and had clusters of
fne flowers all over. It attracted much notice,
'f ropa'olum Coolgardie, which received an award
of merit a short time back, was again shown
by Mr. H. B. May in neat pyramidal plants pro-
fusely flowered. Sir. J. Douglas showed two good
yellow Carnations in addition to the one previously
noted, and Mr. T. Bones, of Heaton Garden,
Cheshunt, showed a group of plants of a free-
flowering sweet scented yellow self. Mr. C. Turner
showed a pink- flowered variety in the way of Miss
Jolilfe named Mrs Greenfell, and Mr. Blick,
gardener to Mr. Martin Smith, staged a little
group of a Malmaison variety called Lady
Giimston, most distinct in colour, flaked with red
on a lighter ground, but practically a self in effect.
Mr. Campbell sent from The Willows, Windsor, a
very formal trained specimen of Bougainvillea
glabra named Campbelli, only a shade deeper in
colour than the type. Cut trusses of seedling
Rhododendrons fine in colour and of robust

character were shown by Mr. Anthony Waterer,
also profuse sprays of the dark-flowered Weigela
Eva Rathke.

Fruit Committee.

The exhibits before this committee were more
numerous than usual, good Tomatoes and green
vegetables being staged in quantity. The Straw-
berries of Messrs. Laxton were very fine and much
admired.

Awards of merit were granted to the follow-
ing :—

Melon The Lady. — A small fruit, nicely netted
with white flesh, the centre tinted with scarlet.
A fiuit of great promise, being rich, juicy and very
solid. It is stated to set freely and crop well, and
is just the fruit for a private garden. The com-
mittee recjuested it to be sent again when
more ripe. From Mr. C. Thomas, the Royal
Gardens, Frogmore.

Carter's Spinach. — This was sent to Chiswick
for trial by Messrs. Carter, of High Holborn,
as the Carter Spinach, but the committee con-
sidered it to be the same as Carter's Long Standing
and the award was made under this name. It
was shown from the society's garden at Chiswick.
It is a distinct type of Spinach with large thick
green fleshy leaves remaining good a long time,
not running like ordinary forms. It will be a use-
ful Spinach for light soils and summer use, and
is quite hardy, having stood the winter well.

Tomato Excelsior. — A variety tried at Chis-
wick last season, receiving the award of three
marks. The fruits shown were not first rate, and
the committee wished to see better fruits before
giving the higher award. It is to be regretted
distinct names are not given, as this kind is
very similar to the well-known Hathaway's Excel-
sior, having globular fruit smooth, in outline,
solid and of good flavour. From Mr. J. Corlett,
Mulgrave Castle Gardens, Whitby, Yorks.

Mr. Mortimer, of Farnham, staged a grand lot
of Tomatoes of perfect colour and finish, also some
twenty fruits of his new Cucumber Progress a very
good looking fruit with little neck and a tremend-
ous cropper ; this variety was requested to be sent
to Chiswick for trial next season, when the society
intend trying Cucumbers. The most notable
dishes of Tomatoes were Sutton's Perfection, Main-
crop, Best of All and Al. Frogmore Seedling, a
new fruit of last season, maintained its excellent
form. Conqueror was very good, but more ribbed
than usual. In all twenty four dishes were shown
and a silver Knightian medal awarded.

Messrs. Laxton Bros., Bedford, staged a very
fine lot of Strawberries in six varieties. Among
them was a new fruit, a mid season variety, very
large, with firm flesh, deep red colour, and promi-
nent seeds. It was named Monarch, and was
awarded a first-class certificate, this to be with-
held till the committee have tested the cropping
qualities in the usual way. They requested
Messrs. Laxton to send fruits to the next meet-
ing. The other varieties comprised the recently
certificated Leader, which was very fine and good
in flavour, Sensation, a large variety, Royal
Sovereign, remarkably fine, John Ruskin, and
Noble. A bronze Knightian medal awarded.

Mr. Hudson, Gunnersbury House Gardens,
Acton, received a cultural commendation for a
very tine box of Lord Napier Nectarines, the
fruits large and of very fine colour.

Mr. G. Wythes, Syon House Gardens, Brent-
ford, staged a small collection of Peas, Beans,
Turnips and Cauliflowers, open-air produce from
plants raised under glass and planted out. Duke
of Albany, Stratagem, Duke of York, Laxton's
Gradus, and Yeitch's Chelsea Gem Peas were very
good. Dwarf Erfurt and Walcheren Cauliflower,
autumn-sown Syon House, Selected Mohawk
French Beans, Yeitch's Early Longpod Bean,
very good, White Milan and Carter's Cardinal
Turnip, Egyptian Beetroot and Potatoes were all
first-rate. A bronze Knightian medal was awarded,
and a similar award went to Mr. Pentney, Worton
Hall Gardens, Isleworth, who staged a large col-
lection of vegetables, having two lots of Tomatoes,
Yeitch's Selected Marrow, Ellam's Cabbage, Early

London Cauliflower, Giant King and Veitch's Ash-
leaf Potatoes, very good, Hick's Cos Lettuce, Early
Milan Turnip, Veitch's Selected and Chelsea Gem
Peas, and other dishes.

Mr. Ward, Longford Castle Gardens, staged
three nice boxe3 of Peas from plants raised in
heat, receiving a cultural award, the varieties
being Carter's Telegraph, very good, William
1st and Carter's Lightning. Mr. Crook, Forde
Abbey Gardens, Chard, Somerset, sent a nice
lot of Veitch's Chelsea Gem Peas, both on the
haulm and gathered. A new Kale was sent by
Messrs. Maiden, Cardington, Beds, but it is out
of season at this date. Mr. H. Staples, Belmont,
Salisbury, sent some huge heads of Asparagus
named Hative. Mr. G. Wythes sent Carter's
Cardinal Turnip, a new variety, of a pink colour,
solid and good ; also the new White Milan Tur-
nip, a pure white variety, and Veitch's Improved
Early Longpod Broad Bean, the earliest variety
of the longpods and very hardy. All these vege-
tables the committee requested to be sent to
Chiswick for trial.

From the society's gardens was sent two varie-
ties of Spinach, the one certificated above, and the
Flanders ; also some very fine fruits of Laxton's
Royal Sovereign Strawberry. There were also
shown green-fleshed Melons by Mr. Thomas, Frog-
more ; a large scarlet fleshed Melon from Mr.
Spencer, Goodrich Court Gardens, Ross, Here-
ford ; the new May Queen Strawberry, by Mr.
Collis, Bollo Lane, Chiswick, and a few small
exhibits of Potatoes.

Mr. Frank Cant gave a practical and most in-
structive lecture on " Rose Growing under
Glass." Although Roses might be grown in al-
most any glass structure, according to his ex-
perience, that most suitable was a span roofed
house running from north to south. A house 24
feet in length and 14 feet in width could have a
centre bed 7 feet wide, a path 1J feet wide, and
then another border all round the house. It has
often been said the Teas and H.P.'s could not be
grown successfully in the same house, but he
found they could in the form of arrangement he
was suggesting if the Teas were confined to the
centre bed and the H.P.'s to the outer bed. The
Teas liked more sun, and by this arrangement
shade when necessary could be given to the
HP. '8. Structural details of the house were en-
larged upon, and removable lights suggested for
structures in which the Roses were planted out.
As regarding culture in pots, he remarked upon
the importance of the plants having a season of
preparation. It was impossible to pot up Roses
in the autumn and flower them successfully the
following spring ; they must have a season of
growth in pots first. The soil he found the best
was good fibrous loam, cut and stacked with cow
manure sandwiched between, allowing it to stand
about six months. Judicious watering and venti-
lation were the secrets of success, and mildew,
the worst of Rose pests under glass, was gene-
rally attributable to errors in this respect. The
remedies advised for a bad attack are familiar,
being treatment with sulphur. Green-fly, an-
other pest to be reckoned with, could be kept in
check by the syringe, but if it gained the upper
hand at any time, fumigation must be resorted tc,
McDougall's sheets being the best possible thing
for the purpose. As regards stimulants, they should
never be applied till plants were established and
in need of them. Ho preferred liquid manure
from a cow yard ; that from the stable was danger-
ous and needed careful dilution. Failing cow
manure, there was nothing better than soot water
obtained by steeping a bag of soot in the usual
way. _____^^____^^—

United Horticulture 1 Benefit and Pro-
vident Society. — The usual monthly meeting was
held at the Caledonian Hotel on Monday evening
last. Mr. Nathan Cole presided. Four new mem-
bers were elected. It has been decided by the
committee that the increase of sick pay from
10s. fid. to 12s. and from Kis. to 18s. per week in
the two classes respectively shall commence from

428

THE GARDEN.

Jine 15, 1895.

the half-year — July 8. The treasurer reported
that he had invested £200 in West Bromwich
3 per cent, stock.

Floral fete at Royal Botanic Society. —
Fortunately, fine weather favoured this now
annual children's floral parade in the Regent's
Park (Jardens. There was a large attendance and
a display of many tastefully decorated vehicles of
all kinds, in some cases, however, the contrast of
colour being none too happy. There were many
exhibits in the large tent, as our list of awards
will show.

The People's Palace Horticultural So-
ciety.— Tho summer exhibition of this society,
originally announced for July 11 and two follow-
ing days, will now be held on July 4, 5 and G,
in order to suit the convenience of their Royal
Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of York, who
will visit the show and be accompanied by the
Duke of Fife, the president of the society ; and in
order th-it as many members of the society as
possible may be in attendance, the visit will take
place at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. On Saturday,
the Sth inst.,Mr. H. J. Jones, Ryecroft Nurseries,
Lewisham, gave an address before the members of
the society at the People's Palace, his subject
being " A Chat about Chrysanthemums."

Notes of the Week.

Paeoria Whitleyi.— Mr. W. Macartney sends
us from Clogher Park, Tyrone, fine flowers of this
charming single Pa>ony and Oriental Poppies in
bright and varied colours.

Salvia Hians.— This is the handsomest of the
hardy Salvias, and a pretty species, but rarely
seen now. A gocd bunch of it attracted some
notice in Mr. Prichard's group of hardy flowers at
the Drill Hall on Tuesday. Its flowers are large
and show-y, of a deep violet-blue colour.

Aquilegias.— I am sending a few flowers of
some seedling Aquilegias raised here. The seed
parent was Aquilegia glandulosa and they are all
of that type, as you will see by the long spurs.
— J. HuGGrNS.

*** A pretty lot in varied colours, but these
hybiids are now often raised in gardens. — Ed.

Linaria dalmatica was well shown by Mr.
Prichard on Tuesday, the spikes of great length
and crowded with large clear yellow, sweet-
scented flowers. In the ground this plant is apt
to become a nuisance, as it runs so freely. The
best place for it is on the top of an old wall, and
some of the fine spikes shown were cut from plants
growing on a wall. It is one of the handsomest
of the perennial kinds.

Oncidium sphacelatum.— The value of this
Orchid for decoration was fully seen in a group of
miscellaneous plants arranged for effect at the
Whitsuntide exhibition at Southampton. Mr.
W. Peel, gardener to Miss Todd, Sidford Lodge,
Shirley, employed it largely and with good effect,
associated with Palms, Ferns, a few Cattleyas,
and other flowering plants. Many of the flower
panicles were 5 feet long, arching beautifully.
— E. M.

Tropseolum Leichtlini.-This, one of Hen-
Max Leichtlin's recent introductions, was admir-
ably shown by Mr. M. Prichard at the Drill Hall
on Tuesday. It is clearly related to T. poly-
phyllum and. has a strong resemblance to that
species at a casual glance, but the differences
observable by close inspection are in its long,
narrower leaflets ; whilst the flowers are distinctly
deeper in colour, being of quite an orange-yellow
hue. The sprays shown were long and abundantly
flowered.

Brassia verrucosa.— I enclose herewith a
portion of a spike of Brassia verrucosa which, I
am told by a good authority, is better bloomed
than usual. The spike was one of six, of which
this and another had each fourteen flowers, and
the others twelve each. Thus grown it is, al-
though old-fashioned and not showy, a very grace-

ful object. It is not B. v. major— at least I have
another plant much larger in all its parts, but
very shy about flowering. Kindly let me have
your opinion on the enclosed. — G. PlM.

*«* A very well-grown plant. — Ed.

Eremurus robustus. — With reference to M.
Van Houtte's remarks on his Eremurus robustus
and yours as to its being more robust than we
have them in England, let me say that my plant
(illustrated in The Garden last year) has three
spikes, measuring from base to tip of inflores-
cence 9 feet 3 inches, 8 feet 1 inch, and 7 feet
6 inches, the flowering portion of the tallest
measuring 3 feet 8 inches. I am glad to say I
have a nice lot of seedlings from last year's seed.
We are dreadfully burnt up here, only 5 51 inches
of rain since the beginning of the year. — F. Page-
Roiserts.

Calochortus Lyoni. — Without a doubt, as
these become better known and their culture
understood — which, by the way, is simple enough
— they will have many admirers and be largely
grown in gardens suited to them. The flowers,
unique in form and lovely colour, have a grace
and elegance peculiarly distinctive, and the family
is growing in numbers and importance. The va-
riety here named, and for which Messrs. R. Wal-
lace and Co. , of Colchester, received an award of
merit on Tuesday, is a most noteworthy addition.
It belongs to the Mariposa section and has fine,
large flowers borne on tall, strong stems, in colour
pale lilac, shading to almost white, with a rich
velvet-brown blotch at the base of each petal.

Iris asiatica. — This noble Iris was shown in
magnificent form by Messrs. R. Wallace and Co.,
of Colchester, at the Drill Hall on Tuesday,
and it was deservedly given an award of merit.
It is a native of Asia Minor and is clearly
allied to I. germanica, but stands out con-
spicuous from all the I. germanica varieties
by reason of its fine size and noble beauty.
The flowers are immense, but admirably propor-
tioned and borne on stems more than 3 feet in
height. The standards are clear blue, the falls of
unusual length, purplish blue around their edges,
shading to a violet-blue in the centre. A good
engraving that shows well the character of the
flower was given in The Garden of February 6,
1S92, p. 121.

Tufted Pansies.— Mr. Forbes, of Hawick,
sends us a charming selection of tufted Pansies,
including many varieties of the Violetta type.
We regret further needless classification of these
as miniatures, which will bother many people.
Except in one or two cases there is no difference
in size, such kinds ts Gecrge Muirhead, Sylvia
and many more being as large as the best older
Pansies. It is nice to see the great purity of
colour of these delicate self-coloured kinds recog-
nised even in nurseries where the florists' kinds
had first place always. Among those we greatly
admire are Gnome, yellow ; Mrs. Primrose and
George Muirhead, yellow with fine flowers; Jennie
Turnbull, delicate blue ; Picotee, blue, edged
white ; Blush Queen and Sweet Lavender.

Magnolia Watsoni.— A fine flower of this new
species was shown by Mr. Hudson, of Gunners-
bury, at the Drill Hall on Tuesday cut from a
plant that has passed the winter in the open air
quite unprotected. Its hardiness may therefore
be taken as proved, and the tree planted with con-
fidence as regards its future welfare. The flower
is of the same character as that of M. parviflora.
but larger. The flowers are ivory white in colour
with a cushion of red filaments in the centre, large,
showy and enduring. Apparently they come a
little later than the flowers of M. conspicua and
its varieties, which is fortunate, not only in pro-
longing the season of these noble flowering trees,
but the beauty of their display is less likely to be
married by inclement weather. Although as yet
we know little of these newer kinds, they promise
well, and it is to be hoped that many will plant
them.

The weather in West Herts.— On three
days during the past week the temperature in the

shade was very high for so early in June, reaching
respectively 73°, 78° and 80'. These were, how-
ever, the only readings which have been in any
way exceptional as yet this month. At the present
time the temperature of the ground at 2 feet
deep stands at 62°, and at 1 foot deep at 6T. The
latter reading is about 2° in excess of the average
for June, and 8° higher than at the same period
last year. About a tenth of an inch of rain fell on
the night of the 11th, but the Burface of the soil
appeared as dry as ever at mid-day on the 12th.
During the last six weeks only about half an inch
of rain has fallen, and no rain water whatever has
come through the light soil percolation gauge for
a month, and none through the heavy soil gauge
for more than a fortnight. On the 7th the sun was
shining brightly for very nearly fourteen hours. I
cut my first Hybrid Perpetual Rose from the open
ground on the 9th inst., or ten days earlier than
the average date for the previous nine years, and
a fortnight earlier than last year. — E. M., Berl-
hamsled.

A warning'. — Mr. J. B. Crace, of 38, Wigmore
Street, writes under date June 5 : " Allow me to
warn your readers and advertisers against acunning
swindler. Wishing to obtain a good place for u
former gardener of good character, I advertised on
his behalf. Among inquiries in reply I had a per-
sonal call from a man who professed to be tenant-
bailiff of a gentleman near Northampton, at whose
request, so he said, he called to make personal in-
quiry about my gardener. This bailiff was a
grazier on his own account and came to town
once every week to attend the early cattle market.
Now my gardener had temporary work some thirty
miles from town, but the ' bailiff,' anxious to see
the man for himself, decided that he would run
down ' after the market was over ' when next ho
came to town in a few days. He accordingly came
again to me, ascertained that the gardener was
not yet engaged, and his address, and departed,
remarking that he thought he would be the very
man. Well, my visitor carried out his promise
next morning ; took train into Surrey, found my
gardener, and decided to engage him, but advised
him to try the place for a week or two before
moving his furniture. Just as he was going ho
remembered that his cash was short of what he
would require to get back to Northampton, and
borrowed £2 of the unlucky ex-gardener, who still
awaits repayment."

Public Gardens.

Lincoln's Inn Fields are gradually being
turned into a wilderness, and if the County
Council intends to do nothing to check the
destruction, the next best thing would be to
a=phalte the fields all over and chop down the
trees. The children who swarm into this delight-
fully quiet, restful retreat ignore all appeals to
keep off the Grass, so that it is now almost diffi-
cult to say where the paths end and the tuif
begins, so complete has the destruction become.

Another public recreation ground.— Tho
owner of the land known as the Cross-bones
Burial Ground has offered to sell it at a fair
price if the land could be turned into a public
recreation ground. The offer has been made to
the St. Saviour's (Southwark) Board of Works,
and a special committee has been appointed to
consider the matter. The area of the land is
30,000 square feet, and the district in which it is
situated much in want of an open space.

Names of plants. — S. L. — 1, Polemom'nm

Richards oni ; 2, P. ecerulea; 3, P. ccerulea alba.

Mrs. S. Marshall. — 1, Diantlius deltoides ; 2, Eofa

macropliylla. if. Waite. — Oncidium fltxuotum aid

Cattleya Mendeli, a pale and pretty form. K. .V.

Lawrie. — White flower Srnilacina bifolia and Acfras

anthropophora (the Man Orchis). J. L. Mantell. —

Hordeum jubatum. C. B. B.— 1, Allium Moly ;

2, Delphinium nudicaule.

THE GARDEN

429

No. 1231. SATURDAY, June 22,7895. Vol. XLVII.

" This is an Art
Which does mend Nature ; change it rather'; but
The Art itself is Nature."— 8hakespcarc.

Rose Garden.

ROSE W. A. RICHARDSON.

Tue popularity of this Rose was ensured from
the time of its first appearance at the shows,
now many years back, when Rose lovers were
astonished and charmed with its richly-coloured
flowers. Now it is much grown, and, still re-
maining without a lival in its unique colour,
has also proved one of the very best Roses for
walls, fences, arches, or any situation suited to
a Rose of vigorous climbing growth, whilst it is
second to none iD profuse and continuous
blooming. Some years back complaints were
made of its erratic behaviour, and we have had
some experience of the same ourselves. Of two
plants growing several yards apart, apparently
under exactly the same conditions, one refused
to grow at all, but just lived, whilst the other
covered the entire space allotted to the two
plants, and now annually hides the wall and its
own leaves in a marvellous profusion of flowers.
The first display is always a great one, but it
does not exhaust the energies of the plant, as
after a short rest it commences flowering again
and blooms throughout the autumn. The
flowers are also disposed to vary in colour,
the blooms of some plants having their outer
petals almost white, and only the rich apricot
tint in the centre. These are disappointing,
but, happily, ihey can be avoided, also the in-
explicable failure of plants to grow. W. A.
Richardson grows and flowers as well upon its
own roots a9 on any stock ; therefore propaga-
tion by cuttings from plants that bear the
brightest and best flowers will give plants free
from any defects of this sort. Plant own-root
plants in light rich soil and they will soon show
that they have abundant natural vigour, which
is not increased, but often diminished, and the
plant's life shortened by condenning it to grow
on any other roots but its own. This Rose is
quite as important as the best Dijon Teas, and
surpasses these last in colour effect and lavish
profusion of flowers.

Tea Roses and frost.— At Reigate Mr.
Haywood has been able to preserve his dw arf Tea
Roses admirably by adopting the simple process of
earthing them up in the winter. Netting, artificial
litter, Fern, cocoa fibre refuse, or similar materials
are not such effective frost protectois as soil,
especially if it be of a light nature. The effect of
the earthing here, which was about (i inches in
height, was to protect every dwarf Tea Rose so
well, that of very large numbers not one is missing
and all are making good, though late growth. The
finest shoots, however, are seen on a few plants
left growing amongst some bush Apple trees.
HybridPerpetualsareall comparatively uninjured,
and in many cases are showing prominent buds.
A good rain is much needed, however, forall Roses.
— D.

Eose Belle Siebrecht.— In the class of so-
called Hybrid Teas are some very good garden
Roses. This, one of the latest additions to that
class, is already highly praised in America, and
Messrs. Siebrecht and Wadley, of the Rose Hill
Nurseries, New Rochelle, U.S.A., fend us a very
good coloured plate of it. The form of La France,
one of its parents, is manifest in the shape of the
flowers, which are of a deep rich pink ard said
to be very lasting. Doubtless it will socn be ex-

tensively tried in this country in the open air.
Dean Hole was favourably impressed with it, and
the leading pot and market Rose growers of
America say much in its favour.

The slaughter of the Roses.— Though some
districts escaped almost unhurt, others have
suffered very heavy losses through the abnormally
severe frosts of last February. The verdict of
some of our largest growers in East Anglia
is, "the whole of my standard Teas are dead,
and dwarf Perpetuals on Manettis and Briers
were so severely mauled and wounded by the
frost as to ruin the spring trade." The latest
tidings are that full half the Briers for stocks are
dead, and on inquiring about famous Marechal
Niels in the open, " dead or dying," have been my
only answers up to date. Another feature of the
zero frosts is revealing itself daily. Roses pruned
back to what seemed their lowest frozen branches
are dying back still further. This is one of
the most depressing phases of severe frost-bites
in Roses or other plants and fruit trees, especially
Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots. Frost injuries
run deeper and spread much further than appears
at first.— D. T. F.

ROSE NOTES.
Considering the havoc wrought among our Roses
during the winter and the large cpiantity of wood
destroyed, there is by no means a bad outlook at
present. Upon walls and fences there is quite a
show of flowers, Gloire de Dijon and all of the
early varieties being very full. Banksians are
better than for years past wherever their wood
escaped the frost. My cut-back Hybrid Per-
petuals are quite gay, and the season promises to
be a good and early one. Certainly the date of
the Crystal Palace N.R.S. exhibition will be suit-
able this year both for southern and northern
growers. At the time of writing a gentle shower
is falling, the first rain for six weeks or so, and
our soil is parched up. It will be a great help to
standard and half-standard stocks, many of which
may yet be saved if the rain continues. As it is,
there are more blanks than would have been the
case if a shower had fallen early last month.
Dwarf stocks are also sadly in need of a good
lain. We have commenced budding upon stan-
dard Briers; this is necessary wherever a shoulder
is ready, as they so soon go past that stage in which
the bark lifts easily and clean. It is a good plan
to lay out I he number of stocks you mean to work
with each variety and then bud upon the shoul-
ders as they become sufficiently advanced. This
is far better than waiting to take the bed right
through, for not only do we get the shoulders
budded at the most suitable stage, but we often
have to procure our buds of choice varieties in
more than one cutting. Close hand-picking is
necessary still among the maggot and also with
weevils and Rose beetles. The latter are more
common than for many years so early in the sea-
son, and will soon spoil a large number of promis-
ing Rose buds. The heading of maiden dwarfs
must be attended to if we want bushy plants,
particularly for pot work in the coming autumn.
Climbers do not need heading, nor do the dwarfer
growing Teas and Noisettes, but to allow A. K.
Williams, Alfred Colomb, and others of similar
habit to grow up one shoot only is a mistake
except where an early maiden bloom is wanted.
Still keep the hoe going among maidens and all
plants that are not mulched with manure. Sur-
face stirring conserves the moisture and also does
much towards keeping the plants clean and
healthy.

Under glass, young Roses are looking well, and
may now have more air given. I was recently
written to respecting the merits of growing Roses
with ample ventilation or keeping the house quite
closed day and night. It is more a matter of heat
than ventilation. A little reason in ventilation
will avoid mildew, while I am sure that too close
an atmosphere with sudden changes of tempera-
ture will bring it on equally as soon as draughts
frcm bad ventilation. Neither extreme should be
practised. Some few years back I wrote a note

about the existence of two Roses under the name
Souvenir d'Elise. For some time I have been
aware that Due de Magenta was about under the
wrong name, but I am not now referring to this
variety. There is one that we have purchased as
Souvenir d'Elise and also as Souvenir d'Elise Var-
don, and which turns out to be Pauline Labonte.
Last winter I purchased a batch of Teas from
France to refill a few of the blanks in my beds.
They were guaranteed true to name, but I find
Pauline Labonte once more sent me as Souvenir
d'Elise Vardon. The true Souvenir d'Elise Var-
don and Pauline Labonte are very widely apart
in every respect, scarcely any two Roses more so.
All of the other varieties are true, and probably the
vendor considers this one correct also. I have
heard of Souvenir d'Elise growing to enormous
dimensions in Devonshire, and, from the descrip-
tion, have not the least doubt that Pauline
Labonte is its correct name. Hybrid Sweet
Briers are looking well, and I note that they are
inquired for very closely. Both Lord and Lady
Penzance are beautiful indeed, but are by no
means the best growers here. R.

THE MARKET GARDEN.

Field Culture of Vegetables.

(Concluded from page JiOG.)

Onions.

The field culture of Onions is a matter of the

highest importance to cultivators, as almost

every year there is a dearth in the supply of

full-grown harvested Onions to the Paris market

so that the deficiencies have to be made up by

large importations from Italy, the countries of

the lower Danube, and even from Russia. And

yet the sowing of a crop of Onions in spring to

be gathered in autumn is one of the simplest

operations and can be done almost in the same

manner and as readily as sowing a crop of Oats.

The soil should be very well prepared and
finely pulverised on the surface. Deep tillage
is not advisable, as Onions bulb much better on
a hard bottom. The seed should be sown at
the close of February or during the first fort-
night in March. If sown in drills from a seed-
distributor the work of thinning out and weed-
ing will be greatly facilitated. In soil of ordi-
nary quality, seed of medium-sized varieties of
Onions should be sown in drills 10 inches apart
and the seedlings should be left 4 inches apart
in thinning out. This would give about forty
bulbs to the square yard.

Thinning out should be done early, so that
the bulbs may attain their full development.
If the thinnings are about as thick as a goose-
quill and belong to an early variety, they may
be put in the shade under a shed or even left
on the field and turned over from time to time.
Most of these thinnings will ripen and form
small bulbs about the size of a marble, which
are useful for pickling. The crop when once
thinned out requires no further attention, ex-
cept an occasional hoeing, until the bulbs are
fit for gathering, which takes place when the
leaves and stalks have withered. The bulbs
are then pulled up and left on the ground for
two or three days to dry, after which they are
stored in a loft, being either thinly spread out
on the floor or hung up in long " ropes " formed
by interlacing the dried stems. Long keeping
varieties should be grown in preference, as
these enable the grower to choose his own time
for selling when prices are most remunerative.
Early kinds of Onions do not keep long enough
for this purpose, and they are only suitable for
cultivation in localities where Onions can be
profitably sold in the young or fresh state.

430

THE GARDEN

fJcsE i2, ]?£5.

The Ognon blano rond dur d'Hollande, the
Jaune paille des Vertus, and the Ognon de
Dai, vers are the most suitable kinds for field
culture and are long-keeping varieties. The
second of these, a large and fiat-shaped Onion,
is the most commonly grown of all the coloured
kinds in the neighbourhood of Paris. The
other two, a white and a coppery yellow
variety, are more globular in shape.

L'Ognon dur de Russe, which is largely im-
ported in seasons when Onions are scarce in our
markets, possesses valuable keeping qualities.
The bulb is only of medium size, shaped like a
short Pear or a Shallot, and is frequently
divided into two parts, but keeps so well that
it sometimes continues in pretty good condition
up to the second spring after the time it was
gathered.

L'Ognon rouge fonce and l'Ognon rouge
sphciique are also good kinds for field culture,
and, along with the Ognon rose de bonne garde,
may be mentioned here on account of their
colour, which in some markets may be a recom-
mendation for them.

In the neighbourhood of Paris it is estimated
that the cultivation of an acre of Onions will
cost £10, and that the crop will bring in £48.
Were the profit only half as much, the field cul-
ture of Onions would be worth trying, and in
the calculation of profits the grower should
always bear in mind that the weight of a crop
of Onions diminishes considerably as the bulbs
become drier in the interval between the time
of gathering and that of sending to market.
Dandelion.

Almost from time immemorial the wild Dan-
delion plants of the fields have been gathered
and sent to the Paris market daily in quantities
amounting to many thousand pounds weight.

A few years since the farmers at Saint Denis,
Pierrefitte and the surrounding districts began
to grow Dandelion in their fields, and this prac-
tice should be widely adopted. The crop is one
which demands but little expense and labour,
while the return from it is sufficiently remunera-
tive. The seed is sown in well-prepared ground
in drills w'lich are from 1 foot to 16 inches apart.
By the end of summer the surface of the soil
is covered with the foliage and the plants form
strong tufts, which should be earthed up before
the ground becomes hardened by frost. All of
this work can be doDe with a plough. During
winter and the early part of spring the Dan°
delion plants, blanched in this way, furnish the
material for an excellent salad and are quite as
good, in fact, for this purpose as curled Chicory
plants. Dandelion is also an excellent vege-
table when boiled and should be more generally
used in this way.

Several improved varieties of Dandelion have
been obtained in the course of cultivation. The
best of these is the full-centred one which forms
very thick and well-furnished rosettes, which
when well grown may attain a weight of 2 h paunds
each. _ The broad-leaved and the curled-leaved
varieties are also highly deserving of recom-
mendation.

Peas.

To a still greater extent than Asparagus and
Green Kidney Beans have Peas become one of
the articles of commerce that are sent from
great distances, part of the Paris winter supply
coming all the way from Algiers ; consequently,
our home growers cannot depend so much as
formerly on the profits of their early or forced
crops of Peas. They have a better chance of
remuneration from late crops; for, at Paris, gar-
den produce which comes into market after the
regular season is over is sometimes more highly
appreciated than early produce which antici-
pates the regular season.

There is also a large demand for green Peas
at the factories for preserved vegetables, and
for the supply of these the Peas must be sown
on a large scale and gathered daily in order to
have them as uniform as possible in size and in
the proper degree of ripeness.

The dwarf varieties are undoubtedly the best
for field culture, but they are generally less pro-
ductive than the tall-growing kinds, and the
pods are not so readily gathered. Moderately
tall-growing kinds are, therefore, preferred for
field culture. These, however, are not staked,
but the plants, clinging to one another with
their tendrils as they grow up, form a compact
mass about 3 feet high, which can withstand
wind and rain very well. In order to hasten
the production and shorten the period of
gathering the crop, the practice, in the neigh-
bourhood of Paris, is to cut off the top of the
main stem above the third or fourth joint at
which flowers are produced. The pods then fill
sooner and better, are fit for market earlier, and
the gathering of the entire crop does not occupy
so many days.

The varieties of moderately tall-growing Peas
which are best adapted for field culture are Pois
Prince Albert, Caractacus, and Michaux
d'Hollande, all smooth, white-skinned kinds ;
Express and Pois serpette vert, smooth, green-
skinned kinds ; Shah de Perse and the Blanc
and Vert rides nains, the Peas of which are
large and wrinkled when ripe.

Amongst the dwarf Peas, the Nain hatif,
Nain anglais, and Serpette nain vert are the
hardiest and most productive.

Some green-seeded varieties are gathered
when fully ripe and sold as dried Peas. Such
are the Pois nain vert gros, Vert deNoyon, and
Pois carre vert normand.

Amongst Peas, as amongst Kidney Beans,
there are varieties with tender, edible pods,
which yield a heavier crop than the ordinary
kinds which are shelled. Although largely used
in the eastern parts of France and in Switzer-
land, these edible-podded kinds of Peas are not
much known throughout the greater part of the
country. This is a pity, as the crop is more
easily grown than the ordinary kinds, and de-
mands much less hand labour. However, I
would not recommend anyone to commence
growing these edible-podded Peas before they
have become a regular and established article of
public consumption. In the case of any article
of food the demand should always go before the
supply, otherwise producers must run the risk
of meeting with serious disappointments.
Potatoes.

There is no crop to which it is more difficult
to apply a dividing line between the domain of
field culture and the province of the market
garden than Potatoes. This remark is applicable
not only to those varieties which are grown for
the manufacture of starch, for distillation, and
for the feeding of cattle, but also to the kinds
which are cultivated for table use. There are,
in fact, few cultivators who do not grow a cer-
tain quantity of Potatoes for the use of the farm
domestics, and very often a considerable portion
of the ground that was broken up for other
crops is devoted to the culture of Potatoes for
the winter markets.

With this crop, as with others, the profit is
not always in direct proportion to the weight of
the yield, but varies under different circum-
stances of weather and local preferences. Gener-
ally speaking, the latest and most productive
kinds are the least remunerative in proportion
to the weight of the crop. The half-early kinds
of tine quality pay better, and the very early
varieties which are taken up before they are
fully grown and sold fre h from the ground

command the highest prices of all. These, on
the other hand, are the most risky to grow, as
they must be taken up and sent to market by a
certain date, so to say, and sometimes when
the grower's attention is claimed by some other
work more urgent.

Of these three modes of growing Potatoes,
the most suitable for field culture is the late
cropping one, by which the tubers are grown
for the winter supply and can be used at home
or sent to market, as may be necessary.

As numerous varieties are well adapted for
field culture, the choice must be guided by con-
siderations of soil and climate, and, in a great
measure also, by local preferences. In one
place round Potatoes are preferred to long ones ;
in another place the long ones are most in
favour. The colour of the skin is also a subject
on which the tastes of purchasers differ. At
Paris the white kinds are generally preferred,
but the red varieties are not despised, providetl
they have yellow flesh. In the eastern districts
of France the red kinds with white flesh, and
in the central districts the round purple-skinned
kinds are fairly popular. For exporting to
England, large-sized, round, or oblong, very
mealy, white-fleshed kinds should be grown.

In France, the kinds which find the readiest
sale are : —

1. Chave. — A yellow-skinned, yellow-fleshed,
round variety, of good cpiality and very much
grown.

2. Lesquix ok Seguin.— A round, yellow-fleshed
variety, raised in the department of the Nord, of
very good quality and keeping well.

3. Magnum bonum. — A long, yellow-skinned
kind, very productive and keeping well, but the
flesh is a little too white to be universally appre-
ciated in France.

4. Saucisse. — An oblong, red-skinned variety,
with deep yellow, firm flesh. This is the kind
which is most extensively sold at Paris during the
winter months.

5. Quarantaine violette. — Another yellow-
fleshed kind, of very superior quality and keeping
for almost any length of time.

6 Quarantaine de Noisy or Marjolin tardive.
— A long, yellow-skinned, yellow-fleshed kind, of
most excellent quality, the most highly esteemed
and highest- priced variety of all. The Jaune
de Brie is only a somewhat later sub-variety cf
this.

Amongst the winter varieties I must meDtion
the Pousse-Debout and Vitelotte, the tubers of
which are of elongated shape and firm-fleshed.
Those of the first-named kind are smooth, while
those of the other variety are notched. Both
kinds are in great request at Paris.

The varieties which are grown for very early
and mid-season crops are usually quite different
from any of those which I have here enumerated.
These, if the market prices are high enough, are
taken up and sold before they are fully grown ;
but if it would not be profitable to do this, or
should any other motive operate to prevent it,
they are left to ripen, and are sold later on when
they are fully grown.

The varieties which are suitable for this mode
of culture are very numerous, but the following
ten kinds are worthy of special mention : —

1. Pomme de terre Victor, the earliest kind
of all, is an excellent variety of recent introduc-
tion. The tubers are flattened, long or shortly-
oblong, with yellow skin and flesh, and very
regular in shape and size. When grown in the
fields the tubers may be taken up in the first or
second week in June.

•2. Marjolin hative ("Quarantaine" of the
growers around Paris). — A very early variety, the
tubers of which are closely crowded together at
the base of the stalks. They may be taken up
for table use when even half grown. This variety
and Victor are the best kinds of all for forcing.

Jess 22, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

431

3. Royale or Anglais. — Almost as early as the
Marjolin when true to name, but spreads more at
the root and is more productive. The tubers are
very nice-looking and smooth and of excellent
quality whether fully or imperfectly ripe.

4. Prince de Galles. — A more productive and
later form of the preceding variety, the tubers
being of larger size and sometimes resembling a
Pear in shape, instead of exhibiting the usual
almond like form of the Royale.

5. Feuille d'ortie. — A yellow-skinned, long,
very early variety, with small-sized stalks and
white flowers. It is grown to some extent as an
early crop and merits the favour which it receives
by the fine appearance and rapid growth of the
tubers.

6. Caillon blanc or Lapstone, exceedingly
handsome in shape, very smooth and of excellent
quality, is grown extensively in the vicinity of
Avignon, whence whole truck-loads of this variety
are sent to Paris. It is distinguished by the tubers
having velvety purplish "eyes" or buds, and by
the peculiarity which they exhibit in the skin
turning purplish instead of green when exposed
to the action of light.

7. JosEr-H Rigault. — A handsome, long-shaped,
very smooth kind, coming early into growth, but
sometimes somewhat irregular in this respect.
One of the good varieties of recent years.

8. Marjolin Tetard. — An excellent kind, quite
distinct, with large, roundish or slightly oblong
tubers, which are always flattened, of a bronzy
yellow colour, and with yellow flesh of very
superior quality and texture.

9. Quarantaine plate. — An exceedingly pro-
ductive as well as a really early variety. Tubers
very uniform in appearance and of a fine yellow
colour both in skin and flesh. When it becomes
better known this variety will certainly be one of
the most extensively grown for market supply.

10. Kidney. — An early, red-skinned, and very
handsome kind, coming quickly to maturity.
Tubers very regular in shape, with a bright red
skin and yellow flesh. This variety is to be re-
commended for localities where red-skinned Po-
tatoes are preferred to any other kind, and such
localities are tolerably often met with.

Besides the foregoing ten varieties, which are
specially early ones, the Quarantaine de Noisy,
the Rouge longue d'Hollande, and other winter-
keeping kinds may also be grown to come in in
autumn.

At the Halle market in Paris the price of
diflVrent varieties of Potatoes often varies from
2s. Gd. to Gs. 8d. per cwt. , so that it will be
seen how important it is to grow varieties which
are in favour with the public.

•_'. Vegetables which, requiring << </.i>»/ supply of
moisture, are best adapted for cultivation in val-
leys where the soil in eitht r naturally moist or can
it< readily watered <>/■ irrigated.

1 shall deal more briefly with the vegetables
belonging to this section, as their range is more
limited and the interest they possess is not so
general from the circumstance that they require
to be growD under special conditions.
Artichokes.

Artichokes grow best of all in soil which is
moist, but well drained, valley soils that are
naturally of a somewhat peaty character being
particularly well adapted for the culture of this
vegetable. Paris is in a great measure supplied
with Artichokes from the valley of the Oise,
Anjou, and Brittany, the winter supplies
coming from Provence, the Eastern Pyrenees,
and Algeria.

In the south of France the variety which is
chiefly cultivated is the Artichaut violet or gris
de Provence, an early and productive kind,
with more scales than bottom or receptacle
In the districts of Oise and Aisne, as also every-
where in the neighbourhood of Paris, hardly
any kind is grown except the Artichaut Camus
de Bretagne, which bears broad, roundish

heads, flattened on the top. Receptacle broad,
but rather thin.

A well-made and well-managed plantation of
Artichokes may during the three or four years
for which it continues productive yield a clear
annual profit, after all expenses are paid, of
from £24 to £32 per acre.

Beetroot.

Beetroot for cattle feeding is grown in the
field soil of ordinary flat districts or plains, and
varieties for table use can undoubtedly be grown
in the same kind of ground. As these last-
named varieties, however, are more highly
prized when tender and young, I have thought
it better to include them, along with the other
kitchen garden roots, among the vegetables
which prefer a moister soil.

The crop of the earlit st varieties of Beetroot
comes in about three months from the time of
sowing, and no variety occupies the ground for
more than four or five months.

In their order of earliness the following kinds
are to be recommended : —

1. Betteraye noire plate jiative d'Egypte
has around, flattened bulb with red flesh, slightly
barred with white. Leaves slight, with a green
and purplish marble colouring. When sown in
April the bulbs may be gathered for use in June.

'2. B. rouge naine. — Root long and slender,
very deeply coloured ; leaves of a dark purplish
tint. An excellent kind and keeps well.

3. B. Eclipse. — Root spherical and of a dark
red colour. A productive and very good kind.

4. B. rouge ronde precooe. — Root large,
round and slightly flattened. A very productive
variety.

5. B. rouge grosse.— The longest rooted and
most productive of the kitchen garden varieties.
This is the kind of which the baked roots are so
largely sold at the Halle market in Paris.

6. B. CRArAUPiNB or ecorce. — The skin of this
variety is black and full of cracks like the bark of
a young tree ; the flesh, o( a deep red colour, is
ve"ry tender or melting and very sugary in taste.

Cardoons.

These can be grown almost exactly in the
same way us Artichokes, and, when tied up and
blanched on the spot where they are growing,
furnish a winter vegetable which always com-
mands a remunerative price in the markets.

The Cardon de Tours is the dwarfest variety
of all and pioduces the most solid chards. It
has, however, the drawback of being spiny.

The C. d'Espagne and C. Puvis are not
spiny, but they take up more space in the ground
and do not yield such regularly solid chards
as those of the preceding variety.
Carrots.

All the market gardens in France are unable
to produce Carrots enough for public consump-
tion, and a considerable proportion of the market
supply is grown in the fields.

The vaiieties of Carrots all require a mellow,
moist, and well prepared soil; the long-rooted
kinds, moreover, need to have the ground
deeply dug and manured, and for this reason
the half-long or stump-rooted kinds, which can
be grown with shallower tillage, are generally
preferred .

The old Carotte rouge longue is now being
more and more superseded by the Carotte de
Saiut-Valery, which is thicker and more conical
in shape, very smooth, and of a fine deep red
colour.

Amongst the half-long or stump-rooted kinds
the varieties Chautenay and Luc are very pro-
ductive, and the Calotte Nantaise aid the
Demi-Couite de Gu6rai de are exceedingly
tender and of superior quality. The other
varieties are purely market garden kinds.
Accordii g to the size of the roots of thedifl'erent
kinds of Carrots which are grown in the fields,

an acre of ground may produce from 5 tons to
12 tons, representing a return in money of
from nearly £10 to £16 sterling.
Celeriac.

We cannot regard this as a plant that will
succeed thoroughly well without artificial water-
ing ; nevertheless, outside of gardens it may
be grown on a large scale in soil that is
naturally moist. The seedlings should be
planted out in May or June, taking advantage
of the occurrence of showery weather, and
after this they will make growth without any
artificial watering. Celeriac is still a com-
paratively rare vegetable and pays very wtll
when sent to market, as it keeps wonderfully
well all through the winter, and is valuable at
a time when the vegetable supply is rather
limited in its variety.

The varieties of Celeriac which are most to be
recommended for field culture are the Celeri-
rave d'Erfurt and the Celeri-rave pomme, which
are small-leaved kinds with bulbs of medium
size, regular form, and excellent keeping quali-
ties.

Chicory.

Several kinds of Chicory may be grown in
fields, notably the wild species for the produc-
tion of " barbe-de-capucin," and the large-
rooted or Brussels Chicory, the shoots of which,
when blanched under a strong pressure, afford
the vegetable that is called "Witloof" by the
Belgians and " Endive " by the greengrocers and
women-cooks of Paris. At Coupvray, M. Jules
Besnard had, last winter, more than 25 acres of
ground under Chicory, and wps by no means
dissatisfied with the returns from the crop.

The soil for Chicory is prepared and the seed
is sown in the same way as for Sugar Beet or
Carrots ; the Eeedliug plants, however, are not
thinned out so severely. In September or
October the roots are taken up and prepared
most carefully in ways which are described in
special treatises on the subject, but which it
would take too long to mention here. Crops of
the two kinds mentioned above are, as they are
grown at present, very productive. Besides, at
the end of the summer, in localities where the
soil is moist enough, a crop of curled Endive or
of Batavian Endive may be grown, which will
come to perfection during the autumn and can
be gathered at the beginning of winter. The
plants of these Endives are tied up so that the
heart may be blanched, and the crop is very
profitable at a time when green vegetables have
become scarce.

The varieties of Endive which are the most
commonly grown in this way are Chicoree de
Meaux, C. de Rufl'ec and C. de Rouen, and,
most of all, the Scarole ronde or Batavian En-
dive. 0 ,

The Chicoree reine d'Hiver and the bcarole
en cornet are hardier thsn any other varieties,
and constantly withstand the winter in the open
ground about Paris.

Cabbages.

The field culture of heaiting varieties of
Cabbage is always attended with a citam
amount of risk, as the occurrence of a period
of unusually dry weather, with its oidmary
consequences of a check to veeetation and an
increase in the numbers of the HaltiM, or black
flea may place the crop in jeopardy. On the
other hand, under favourable circumstances
few vegetables furnish such an abundant and
profitable crop as Cabbages.

The soils which are mo.-t particularly suitable

for the cu'ture of Cabbages are those which are

naturally moist or even sightly sour. Meadow

land and land which has been recently c eared

I of trees or shrubs always yields the finest Cab-

432

THE GARDEN.

[June 22, 1895.

bages. Wherever a system of irrigation is of
necessity established the water of which is
charged with fertilising matters, Cabbages are
thi most suitable plants for utilising the super-
abundance of very nutrimental plant food. So
it is that in the neighbourhood of Paris Cab-
bage growing is most extensively and most
profitably carried on in the plain of Genne-
villiers, which is irrigated with sewage water.

Amongst Cabbages, as amongst Potatoes,
there are some varieties adapted for furnishing
a winter supply, and others which, coming in
earlier and not keeping for any length of time,
must be cut for use as soon as the heart is fully
developed. These last-mentioned kinds do not
occupy the ground so long as the others, but a
good market price for them is more uncertain.

Of the early kinds I may mention Chou Ex-
press, Chou hafcif d'Etampes, York, and Ox-
heart, all of which are too well known to need
any description here. A variety which, on the
other hand, is almost unknown in France is the
Chou Jersey Wakefield, which originated in
America, and appears to me to be one of the
best early kinds for field cultrre in plains. It
is a short, conical-headed Cabbage of a glaucous
green colour, heating quickly and firmly and
attaining a wdght of from 2 lbs. to over 4 lbs.
It withstands hot, dry weather in quite a re-
markable manner.

Of the good late or mid-season kinds which
yield heavily and keep well through the winter,
or may be used in the manufacture of sauer-
kraut or as a preserved dried vegetable, the
very best are the Chou Quintal or Chou
d'Alsace, which is of large size, flat, and
very firm : the Chou Quintal d'Auvergne, which
is still bulkier and rounder in shape ; the Chou
de Brunswick, which, from the shortness of its
stem, has been so appropriately named Chou
Tabouret ; the Choux de Winnigstadt and de
Pomeranie, which have conical-shaped heads,
and the large-sized kinds, Choux de Milan,
Milan des Vertus, andPontoise de Norwege, the
last-named of which can be left in the ground
during the winter, so that the crop may°be cut
after all the other kinds have been cleared off.

Red varieties of Cabbage can also be equally
well grown in fields, and these are often a more
remunerative crop than the white kinds. Lastly,
Swedish Turnips and Kohlrabi may be very
advantageously grown in fields, especially if the
seed is sown late, so that the plants may be
somewhat checked in growth before attaining
their full development. This has the effect o{
improving the quality very much, and if the
plants have been left pretty thick in the ground,
the total weight of the crop will be little, if
anything, under the average.

Gourds or Pumpkins.

There are very few districts in France where
one may not see here and there a few plants of
Pumpkins grown in the fields. In Touraine
they grow the large Pumpkin (Citronille) for
feeding cattle, and in the neighbourhood of
Paris it is in the fields that Pumpkins are most
commonly grown. This practice should become
more widely extended, due regard, of course,
being had for local usages and preferences.

Almost all the kinds of Gourds, especially
those of medium size, may be grown without
any artificial watering, and the number of kinds
as well as of varieties of form is very consider-
able. The Vegetable Marrow is fit for table
use when one-fourth or one-third grown, and
the plant continues in bearing for two months
together.

The curiously-shaped Custard Marrows and
the Turk's-ca;) or Turban Gourds are much in

request, not only for table use, but also for

decking the wiudows of restaurants, while slices
of the smaller field Pumpkins find a ready sale
in the markets.

Turnips.

Catch-crop cultivation, for which Turnips are
so well adapted, may be employed to furnish
varieties for table use as well as those kinds
that are grown for feeding cattle. All that is
necessary is to sow in the best prepared ground
seed of early varieties which are in request in
the markets of the locality. In this respect, as
in many other cases, it is necessary to take
into serious consideration the tastes and pre-
ferences of the locality, however arbitrary these
may be. It is hard to say why the people of
Paris do not like yellow Turnips, or why, in
other places, long ones do not please the popu-
lar taste. Such prejudices as these are as-
suredly devoid of any justification, but when
we have to deal with the public as our custo-
mers, we must conform to their notions and
only endeavour gradually and skilfully to per-
suade them to adopt new ideas and use new
kinds of vegetables, the more so as there is no
lack of good kitchen garden varieties of Turnips,
whether anyone wants them long, round, flat,
white, red, yellow, or even black.

Of late years the farmers around Paris have
begun to sow on theirstubbles the small Navet de
Milan, and they have found this a very profit-
able crop. The white and red early flat varie-
ties Blanc rond de Jersey, Boule d'Or, and
Jaune de Montmagny, and even the long ten-
der kinds, such as the Navets des Vertus
pointu and marteau, may be grown in this
way for the winter markets, which are the most
profitable and the least exacting in requiring
produce to be sent in by a certain date.
Leeks.
It is always a matter of surprise to me
that Leeks are so little grown in places
where cultivation is in other respects in an
advanced state ; while in some provinces at
a distance from Paris one frequently comes
across fields of Leeks or rows of Leeks grow-
ing interposed amongst other crops. And
yet it is a vegetable that is always appreciated
and its price is seldom lowered in our markets.
Moreover, it possesses the very valuable quality
of keeping well in the ground in winter, so that
it can be taken up for sale when and as required.
It would be a very exceptionally severe winter
that would cause the hardy Leeks of the north
of France to suffer from the cold. After a few
months of culture they yield a crop more or
less heavy, much heavier, in fact, and more
profitable than many would suppose at first
sight. When the ground has been well prepared
and manured a large-sized variety of Leek, such
as the Carentan, is capable of yielding, without
any artificial watering or special attention, from
20 tons to 24 tons per acre, the plants being
grown eight to twenty-five to the yard, accord-
ing to the method practised. The clear profit per
acre may easily range from £32 to £48 sterling.
The Poireau gros court de Rouen and the
P. monstrueux de Carentan are very well
adapted for field culture. Showing but little
over ground they withstand frosty weather well.
The Poireau long d'hiver de Paris may be
planted more closely together. This variety
commands the highest price at the Halle in
Paris. Local considerations must always in-
fluence the cultivator in deciding which variety
will be the best for him to grow.

Spinach-Beet or Cbards.
This vegetable is not so much grown in
France as it might be. Except in the vicinity
of Lyons and in Provence, where it is uni-

versally grown, one very rarely meets with it in
cultivation. And yet it would form a useful
addition to the list of late-season kitchen garden
products, which are not very numerous.

Chards are grown in exactly the same manner
as ordinary Beetroot in any kind of good, free
soil. Everyone knows the Poiree blonde com-
mune, the leaves of which are eaten entire
cooked like the leaves of Orache and Spinach.
The leaves of the Chards may be used in the
same way, but these have besides a broad
fleshy stalk, the flavour of which is very
peculiar and very agreeable, resembling that of
the Cardoon combined with a delicate and
slightly acidulous taste. The best variety is the
Poiree blonde de Lyon, the stalk or chard of
which is white. Until this vegetable, however,
becomes better known and more generally in
demand, it would be rash to undertake its cul-
tivation en anything like an extensive scale.

Salsafy and Scorzonera.

Like the kitchen garden varieties of Carrots,
these roots can be easily and very profitably
cultivated in the fields. All that is required is
to sow the seed in spring in well-dug ground in
drills from 8 inches to 10 inches apart, and the
subsequent treatment is limited to a few hoe-
ings, in the course of which the young plants
are thinned out if they have come up too
thickly. In autumn the roots are lifted as re-
quired and sent to market in bundles of about
5 lb. weight each. Salsafy roots must of
necessity be all lifted by the end of the first
year, as after this the plants, if left in the
ground, will run to seed and become unfit for
table use. Scorzonera roots may remain in the
ground for two years and flower without losing
their culinary value to any great extent.

In concluding this long review, let it be very
clearly understood that it by no means expresses
any intention of mine to advise farmers to adopt
or even to attempt the cultivation of all the
vegetables which I have here enumerated. If
every farmer set himself mainly to grow vege-
tables for market, the market gardeners would
have to give up business, which would be a great
pity, since the division of labour is generally at
the bottom of all solid progress. I must say
that my purpose was to afford information, not
advice. At the present day, more than ever, it
is necessary to confine oneself to such branches
of industry as one is able to carry out well, and
which one's circumstances will permit of being
undertaken with profit. Now, there are few
farms on which the conditions of soil, climate,
and proximity to or distance from a market
would not enable the farmer to grow some
kind of kitchen garden vegetable with profit.
This branch of culture would bear to the general
farm crops much the same relation of an accessory
character as poultry-raising or the breeding of
various animals, &c. It would certainly be of
minor importance to the main products of the
fields, yet at the same time would be no in-
significant, but sometimes a very profitable,
addition to them. In this respect the cultiva-
tion of kitchen garden vegetables in fields
recommends itself to the attention of the farmer,
and also because it forms a good school for
educating the farm labourers.

Gardening, it has often been said, is agricul-
ture in its highest form of expression, and it is
a good model for the practice of field culture to
have before one's eyes a few pieces of ground
tilled and manured to the maximum degree,
and largely repaying with their produce the
outlay which such tillage has involved. This
forms a school of advanced agriculture — of agri-
culture with enlarged operations and bunging
in large returns.

June 22, 1895. J

THE GARDEN

433

Flower Garden.

GAILLAEDIAS AND GYPSOPHILA.
Two charming and popular garden flowers are
here illustrated arranged in a simple and
pleasing way, which shows the characteristic
beautv°of each. The effect is as light and
graceful as that of the most careful and in-
tricate arrangements such as one sometimes
see3, perfect examples of detailed elaboration,
but which neither appeal to the eye nor give
that sense of satisfaction which comes from
such an arrangement as this of familiar flowers
artistically blended, yet still showing their
natural pose and form.

THREE KENTISH GARDENS.
Although Kent is called the garden of England,
we are not (at any rate in the eastern part of it)
famous for our private gardens. Those attached

, between bedding out and herbaceous plants.

, The garden which surrounds Swinford Manor
House is a compromise between the two systems ;
the ground in which the quaint old house stands
is level. There is a good-sized lawn fronting the
house in which beds are cut in the Grass, and
filled both in spring and summer with either annual
or half-hardy plants. At the time of my visit
they were filled with Forget-me-not, rising out of
which were fine yellow Tulips. Around this lawn
and in beds under the windows of the house are
to be found many herbaceous plants, of which
there is a good collection, while in the garden at
the back of the house some of the choicer varieties
are cultivated. When the Forget-me-nots, Prim-
roses, and other spring plants, of which there are
a great number, are removed, their place is occu-
pied by Geraniums, Begonias, Cannas, and other
summer flowering plants Rosesoccupyaprominent
position. At the time of my visit, although the win-
ter had been very severe, the Tea Roses were mak-
ing vigorous growth. The weather which we have
had lately has been of a very exceptional charac-
ter, and I should almost have fancied the drought,

Oaillardias and Gypsophila in a vase.

to most of our large houses always were of a rather
common-place character, and the old bedding-out
system still survives in most of them. There are
a few bright spots, such as Mr. Hammond's, of
St. Alban's Court, though, I fear, that too is not
what it once was. In Mid-Kent, however, 1
think the case is different, and I have lately
visited one garden in my own neighbourhood and
two near Maidstone, each of them differing in
character, and all presenting objects of interest,
and a brief notice of them may not be unacceptable
to your readers.

"The Garden that I Love."

I suppose that most of your readers know the
charming little book in which under this title
Mr. Alfred Austin has described his garden.
Mr. Austin is a poet, and therefore thinks that a
poet'B garden should always be bright and full of
colour, and so he has compromised the matter

which has now lasted for many weeks, would
have injured them, but they seem to have with-
stood it remarkably well if I may judge from my
own plants.

St. Helen's, East Farleigh, Maidstone.

This is a garden of herbaceous and alpine plants
and there is no bedding-out either for spring or
summer. Two years ago I visited and described
in The Garden what struck me then to be the
most remarkable things contained in it. It was
at a somewhat later period than my present visit,
and consequently many of the plants I then men-
tioned were not as yet in bloom, but there was
much of great interest, although, perhaps, the late-
ness of the season deprived me of the pleasure of
seeing the Irises, of which Mr. Carrington Ley
has an extensive collection, and since I was last
there a good deal of the newness of the rock garden
has worn off. The stones have become of a less

glaring character, and the plants which every-
where sprang up between them have seme of them
acquired considerable size and are evidently
making their way in their new quarters. The
garden stands in an elevated position, and al-
though the severe winter had made some gaps,
they were not so numerous as in some gardens I
have seen on a lower level. A fine Judas tree
has been killed, also many plants of Cistus,
a class which seems everywhere to have suf-
fered, while other things have stood remarkably
well. Romneya Coulteri was in good condition,
and Lilies, which have not generally done well
here, seemed to be in a very flourishing con-
dition. As everyone who grows herbaceous
plants knows, the end of May is about as difficult
a time for them as any ; the early spring beauties
— the Gentians, Aubrietias, Anemones, Primulas,
Scillas, &c. , are past, and Irises, Pa-onies, Aqui-
legias and Delphiniums are not yet in. Arenaria
grandiflora was in good flower and a striking
species it is ; Ranunculus amplexicaulis was here
in quantity, and its beautiful white flowers make
it very attractive. Then there was the showy
Orobus aurantiacus, much superior to the ordinary
variety, and a good clump of Sparaxis. I cannot
understand why this genus should be so much
more amenable to culture, whether in the open
ground or in pots, than the very closely allied
Ixias. The former I can grow on in pots from
year to year, but the latter (although I grow im-
ported bulbs) will do nothing the second season
and very often but little the first. Sisyrinchium
grandiflorum was also in quantity, and there
was as well a very highly-coloured Dodecatheon
splendidum, a brilliant form of the American
Cowslip, deep crimson in colour, with a yellow
rim. This is one of the few places where the
Eremurus has been successfully cultivated. Last
year a plant of Eremurus robustus attained the
height of 13 feet. This plant is again sending up
a flower-stem, while Eremurus himalaicus, the most
beautiful of them, is also showing strongly for
flower. Verbascum olympicum was to be seen in
various places not yet in flower, but it seeds itself
freely all over the garden. This is generally con-
sidered a biennial, but I have now a plant of it
making growth in its fourth year, but (whether
this is the consequence of it I do not know) it
never seeds at all. Its behaviour, to say the
least of it, is eccentric.

Mr. R. Fremlin's, Wateringbury.
This garden is entirely different from the other
two which I have previously attempted to de-
scribe ; it was to it that two years ago I made a
pilgrimage for the purpose of seeing that fine
Bellflower, Ostrowskia magnifica, and which I
attempted to describe in The Garden. It with-
stood well the frost of last winter, and although
not now in flower, is making good growth and
will, I have no doubt, in due time be a grand sight.
The garden is extensive, on beautifully undulat-
ing ground, and is occupied mainly with flowering
shrubs and herbaceous plants. Although standing
high up, it did not escape the severe frosts of last
winter ; a large Wistaria was killed outright, and
the large Rose tree, which I described as clamber-
ing up over an Apple tree, has also perished.
Flowering shrubs are much valued here, and some
of the best new varieties of Lilac, single and
double, light and dark, were in bloom. Hardy
Azaleas also contributed much to the gay appear-
ance of the place, and large masses of herbaceous
plants some feet in length, such as Saxifraga
Wallacei, were very pleasing, while along the
border where the Ostrowskia flourishes are col-
lected a number of beautiful herbaceous things
con spicuouB either for their beauty or rarity. Prob-
ably the rarest of these is that beautiful New Zea-
land composite Celmisia spectabilis ; the plant does
not grow above 6 inches high, and the flowers are
large, about 2J inches across, white, with a
golden centre. Like many of the New Zealand
plants, it stands on the borderland between
hardiness and half-hardiness, and I question its
power, except in some favoured localities, to
stand the severe cold of our winters. A mass of
Cypripedium spectabile was pushing up strongly,

434

THE GARDEN

f.Tuxu 22 1895.

and, in fact, everything about the place showed
marks of vigour — groups of Iris, large double
and single Pivonies were noticeable. Lilies were
also growing strongly, and will no doubt in due
time delight those to whom this beautiful tribe
is a never ceasing source of pleasure. Such is a
brief notice of these three gardens, each so
different, and yet each having its special claim
on those who take pleasure, I will not say in old-
fashioned flowers, but in permanent occupants of
our garden borders, for it is remarkable how small
a percentage of the plants we cherish in our
herbaceous borders can be classed amongst these
former. We have ransacked the world in order to
gather together the most beautiful plants of the
cold or temperate regions, and these are the
plants which we most cherish. I do not think
that we are likely to go into ecstacies over the
old Columbines when we have those lovely kinds,
hybrids from Aquilegia chrysantha, A. ecerulea,
and A. Skinneri, with their long spurs and varied
colouring with which now without any trouble
our gardens can be well stocked, as they are most
free in seeding and are constantly visited by bees,
moths, &e., so that we never know what colours
we are likely to get. There is one other garden
in the neighbourhood of East Farleigh where 1
am told herbaceous plants are in great favour, but
which I have not had an opportunity of visiting.
I hope to go some time in the summer, and may,
perhaps, be able to say something concerning it
in the pages of The Garden. I must also note a
plant which I do not often see — Lithospermum
canescens, not of the intense blue to which we are
accustomed in some of the other species of this
genus, such as prostratum andAngastoni, but of
a bright yellow ; it was only just beginning to
show its colour. Delta.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.

Spirsea arguta. — This is now getting popular
in gardens, and well does it deserve the honour of
a conspicuous place. It is one of those subjects
that cannot be over-praised. It chances that
one of perhaps the oldest specimens of the
kind is here, and as it had grown too large
for its place, was freely cut back in the autumn
of 18113, and the bush was both improved in shape
and the flowers have been more numerous and in
bolder pose than ever this spring. So striking was
the bush at one time, that one could not refrain
from going to it many times a day, when one's
eyes were dazzled by its pure whiteness, lines of
arching twigs, touched off at their points with
thin black points, resembling tasteful appendages
of thread or cord. About a well-grown and
flowered specimen there is both symmetry and
elegance. The stature may be anything from 2
feet to 5 feet.

Andromeda fastigiata. — For seven weeks
this has been white all over with its hundreds of
wax-like little bells. It has the reputation of
being hard to cultivate, but it is not so if granted
two requirements, which are not hard in most
cases, viz., fairly pure air and a position where
not only its peaty soil is kept fairly moist, but
the atmosphere, for instance, in a slightly shaded
place and among numbers of other shrubs, which
help by leaf evaporation to keep the air soft, like
that of a wood bottom on a hot, dry day. This
seems essential from the peculiar and scale-like
character of its leaves, which hardly look like
leaves at all. Unless these are well sustained by
moisture both from within (their roots) and with-
out, the leaf-enveloped stems soon go soft and are
restored to plumpness with difficulty. I find for
pot specimens that cocoa-nut fibre or damp peat
answers admirably as a plunging material. With
regard to pure air, I am not favoured with this
by any means, but it is not very bad relatively to
that of some districts near big towns, being on
the west side of Leeds, the prevailing winds bring
almost pure air from the distant hills.

A pleasing' blend of flowers, which to my
mind suggest either a bedding idea or harmonious
groups, occurred here in May, and up to the

present has grown more bright or effective, and,
owing to the long endurance of the flowers and
also the succession, bids fair to last some time
longer. The white flowers are the feathery
panicles of Saxifraga pyramidalis and S. Cotyle-
don, and the pale blue or mauve, the spikes of
corresponding stature of Nepeta Mussini. The
Saxifrages aie in a good-sized mass of 100 plumes
or more, the Nepeta plants are interspersed some-
what thinly, and then finished by thickly flanking
the white. Both these are perfectly hardy and
will stand for years in the same place. Both also
enjoy a somewhat sunny and dry position.

Ciioi.ce early Saxifrages. — A capital set of
eighteen or a score comprise the under named, as
tested for reliable hardiness and free-flowering
after an exceptional winter like 1894-05 : Kots-
chyi, Burseriana, B. speciosa, Burseriana seed-
lings in variety (white, cream to yellow), Boydi
alba, Boydi (yellow), oppositifolia in three or
four varieties, scardica, marginata, Malyi, luteo-
viridis, Rudolphiana, sancta, Cymbalaria (annual),
biflora, and peltata (before the leaves, a very large
species).

Aletris farinoEP. — I was surprised to find this
had not only survived the winter on an open
rockery (the base), but to see it sending up a
spike. The flower-spike, however, has failed to
develop beyond 3 inches, owing, I believe, to the
very hot position during early May where a great
amount of heat is trapped, which bj* other plants
as well as by the Aletris has been resented. Still
the plant is growing, and that is the chief point
of this note — its hardiness against 30° of frost.

Geptiana ornata. — This is another instance
of a pleasant surprise. The one plant I left out
on an exposed situation without any protection
whatever is now a far more sturdy specimen than
an}' of the set stood all winter in pots and in
a cold frame. It is, therefore clear to my mind
that whatever may have been the cause or causes
of the death in past years of this Indian species,
it cannot have been cold merely. Possibly it may
have been cold and wet with sudden changes in
winter ; if so, we can in a measure guard our
plants against the wet. The cold, however, we
cannot well escape, and it is well to know in this
case that cold alone has not been the death of the
plant.

Ourisia coccinea. — I saw this promising well
for flower in the rock gardens of Mr. Alfred
Sykes, The Tower, Cookridge, the other day. It
was being grown in a flat position, and as I ob-
served where the plant had run to the side of a
cropping mass of rock, and consequently got a
little shade, the flower-spikes were more numerous
than on the more exposed portions of the plant.

Woodville, Kirkstall. J. Wood.

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Sweet Peas. — These flowers entered rather
largely last year into the summer decorative work
required about the mansion, and they were so
satisfactory as to warrant an increased supply for
the present season. For covering a long stretch
of wirework they were sown in boxes in February
and had the shelter of a cold frame during the
exceptionally severe weather experienced through-
out that month. The boxes were transferred to
their summer quarters about the middle of May,
and the Peas as they progressed in growth have
been lightly secured to the wirework by lengths
of twine. Sweet Peas also this year take the
place of some tall plants of Japanese Honeysuckle
that have hitherto been used for clothing iron
pillars, and which were so crippled by the severe
winter as to be practically useless for the present
season. For this latter work the Peas were sown
thinly in pans, 1 footsquaro bythe same in depth ;
they are now just coming into flower and will look
very well indeed. Where roots are confined in
pans or boxes very liberal doses of liquid manure
must be given as soon as the plants commence to
flower to keep the growth moving rapidly, and all
decayed flowers must be promptly removed. I

have found Emily Henderson and Firefly two
capital sorts for this particular work. Those who
provided a deep tilth and a liberal supply of
manure for those outdoor borders where Sweet
Peas were sown will be the most likely to
secure a good and continuous display of flower
if the weather keeps hot and dry. A heavy
surface mulching and a good soaking of water is,
of course, very beneficial, but in the majority of
places outdoor flowers in any shape or form cannot
often receive such attention at a busy time of the
year.

Flowers for present cctting. — The season
of Pyrethrums, Aquilegias, Pieonies, hardy
Azaleas, &c., is getting a little over, and one has to
hunt about to find other things to help out with
the Roses, and the demand for cut flowers is on so
extensive a scale, that it is not always an easy
matter to meetall requirements continuously right
away through the season. Nearly all hardy
flowers, however, fortunately adapt themselves
to vase work, and that being so, it is most impor-
tant to take note of any weak point in the suc-
cession available, and to see the particular
varieties required in quantity at such a time are
strengthened by increased propagation when the
time for this is at hand. In shrubs, Weigelas in
variety have been useful up to the present time,
and their place is now filled by the large-flowered
Syringa, Philadelphus grandiflorus and the single
and double forms of Deutzia scabra. Whilst on
the subject of white flowers I may note that a
good outdoor breadth of Spiraea japonica is always
very useful, and the season may be considerably
extended by having two such breadths respectively
on south and north borders. I noted some time
back the planting of Foxgloves in quantity
among brakes of small seedling Rhododendrons,
and from the present time (June 5) onwards for
several weeks their spikes will be very acceptable.
As in the case of the Spineas, the season can be
considerably extended by planting in different
positions. A batch of Delphiniums planted in a
similar site is supplying just now the various
shades of blue. A lot of Iris germanica are still
to be had from old established clumps, and a batch
of the smaller Spanish Iris planted early last
winter is coming out fast. Plenty of sun and the
dry time has been answerable for an early develop-
ment of flower on the varieties of Phlox suffruticosa
and the large heads will soon be out. This is,
however, one of the flowers I am always very loth
to cut unless we are hard pressed, as j^iven^a con-
siderable number of plants together, the magnifi-
cent heads have a very fine effect, and once shorn
of their bloom the plants have a very formal, stick -
like appearance. Another plant showing flower
somewhat earlierthan usual is the Pentstemon, long
spikes of which are very acceptable for tall vases.
Poppies increase in favour with each succeeding
year for light and graceful vase work, and we have
this year considerably increased the size of the
breadth sown. The Shirley and pavoninum
(annual) and the varieties of nudicaule (perennial)
are the favourites. Very charming dinner table
arrangements can be made with these Poppies
associated with a choice assortment of orna-
mental Grasses culled from a neighbouring
meadow. Looking through a large breadth
of Pinks in several varieties that were planted
specially for cutting, I see that Ernest Ladhams
is considerably later than any other sort we have.
This will just hit the season nicely between
the bulk of the Pinks and the earliest bor-
der Carnations. Scattered about here and there
among the Pinks are a few nice clumps of the Sea
Lavender (Statice latifolia), which answers for
autumn the purpose served by Gypsophila through
the summer months. Our plants of this Statice were
very sicklyattheend of lS03,so I shifted them from
the place they then occupied, cut them up, and
replanted (doing them thoroughly well) on the
border that was presently to be filled up with
Pinks. The growth made in 1894 was very
weak, and we had none of the handsome panicles
of flowers, but this year the clumps are coming
away strong and well. Writing of two plants
whose flowers from July until the end of the year

June 22, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

435

are used as a substitute for foliage reminds one
that for the supply of foliage on a large scale for
a similar purpose there is nothing to equal the
common Asparagus. It is not advisable to be
continually cutting from permanent beds that are
in use for culinary purposes, so to secure lengths
of foliage for the flower basket, a little seed can
be sown thinly in drills at 2 feet apart in some
corner of a slip garden any time early in spring.
It will naturally be of little use the hrst season,
but can always be relied on afterwards to furnish
a bountiful supply. It is not in every garden
that the well-known seaside shrub that seems to
revel in the salt spray (Tamarix gallica) does
thoroughly well ; where, however, this is the
case, long and elegant sprays of foliage can be ob-
tained in quantity from old-established plants.

Dahlias. — Where earwigs are troublesome,
they are bound to muster in strength after the
prolonged spell of hot, dry weather, and it will
be found advisable to put the stakes to the
Dahlias at once even if the plants are rather
small, and to place inverted flower-pots contain-
ing a little dry hay on the top of the stakes with
a view to entrap the enemy before they have time
to work much mischief. Where the cultivation
of Dahlias is more a matter
of strengthening the sup-
ply of late summer and
autumnal flowers for cut-
ting rather than obtaining
blooms of extra size and
quality, it is advisable to
plant the very free-flower-
ing varieties in the Cactv.s,
decorative, and pompon
sections. All these are also
tinesubjects for large beds;
a thin planting of Con-
stance, for instance, filled
in with Fire King makes
a very effective bed, whilst
in the pompons very effec-
tive combinations either in
decided and well chosen
contrasts, or in a mingling
of the softer colours, as re-
presented by such varie-
ties as Countess von Stern-
berg, Dora, E. F. Junker,
Fashion, Grace, Midget,
and Pure Love, can be pro-
duced. E. BfRRELL.

Claremotil.

Perhaps the most essential thing is that the soil
contains lime, as if this is deficient the plants
make a puny growth and flower prematurely
or die altogether. Soils not naturally calcareous
may be made suitable by the addition of lime
rubbish. Another point is to sow the seeds
where the plants are to grow, and as soon as
they are large enough thin them out to about 9
inches or 1 foot apart. There are two distinct
shades of colour, one pale purple and the other
creamy white. The Sweet Sultan is much
grown for the market. The flowers, with their
long stems, are admirable for gathering, and
their pleasant fragrance is not the least of
their charms.

Orchids.

SCUTICARIAS.

This is a small genus containing not more than
three or four distinct species, but these are very
appearance and very

remarkable Orchids in

Iris fiavescens. — This
German Flag should be
cultivated by all who ad-
mire this section of the
Iris family. It is a very

Sweet Sultan {Centaurea moschata).

strong grower,

the

strongest of a collection of twelve varieties that
were planted in clumps of six four years ago.
I. fiavescens has now developed into a mass 10
feet in circumference, which has this year thrown
up thirty-five flower spikes of pale yellow flowers,
which are more lasting than those of many of the
other named varieties. The German Irises will
grow in almost any situation, from a steep embank-
ment to a moist bed, but it is necessary that they

singular in their manner of growth. Botanically
they are closely related to Maxillaria, but the
resemblance goes no farther than the flowers,
the habit being entirely different. Scuticarias
are all evergreen epiphytes with very short
stems and long cylindrical leaves, found growing
naturally on trees in equatorial America. The
flowers occur on short stems ; not usually more
than three form one growth. These Orchids

should be afforded opportunity of enjoying the will grow in a Cattleya house temperature, but
sunlight. Good varieties are Iris pallida, I. are far more satisfactory if treated to more heat,
pallida dalmatica, I. fiavescens, I. florentina, I. thriving well during the growing season with the
Madame Chereau, I. Prince of Orange, I. Princess deciduous section of Dendrobiums. A con-
of Wales and I. Queen of the May, all of which are ! stantly moist atmosphere during this period is
attractive forms. Fiavescens s certainly the essential, and the plants must never be allowed

best doer of the foregoing, and if but one variety
is grown this should be chosen, the best two for
effective contrast being fiavescens and pallida. —
S. W. F.

to be dry at the roots, this latter being the most
frequent stumbling-block to the successful
culture of Scuticarias. The roots are fairly
large and fleshy, and when covered with a little
growing Sphagnum, no great amount of care
will be needed, and this treatment will be found
far preferable to bare blocks. They may be

THE SWEET SULTAN.

(C'ENTAUREA MOSCHATA.)

This charming old annual is not often seen well grown either in baskets or on blocks, but if the

grown in gardens, but it is a pretty flower for latter they must be of good size in comparison

the garden or the house, and well worthy of the with the plants, as snif.ll blocks part with the

care needed to ensure its healthy growth, moisture too readily, and do not give sufficient

roothold. A good deal of sunlight is necessary
for these Orchids, no flowers being produced if
grown in a dense shade. They are not constant
in their habit of growth or time of flowering, but
if possible they should be fairly excited in
spring so as to get the growths ripened as the
sun is waning in autumn. The winter treat-
ment of such plants consists in keeping them
moist enough to prevent the leaves from shrivel-
ling and dropping off, at the same time avoiding
too much watering. Plants that grow away dur-
ing the winter must be carefully treated, and a
a routine arranged as near as practicable to the
conditions obtaining at their natural season, this
being better than attempting to dry them when
they seem inclined to grow, or to excite them
when quiescent.

S. Hadweni is a somewhat rare and variable
species, introduced in 1851 from Brazil. The
leaves are usually pendent, occasionally erect,
growing about 18 inches in length, pointed, and
grooved on one side, deep green. The flowers are
4 inches across, the sepals and petals yellowish,
blotched and barred with brown. The lip is
broad, wavy on the margin and hairy ; it is white,
with rose markings. There are several varieties
of this plant, differing chiefly in the disposition
and tints of the spots. The best known kind in
the genus is

S. Steeli, a most remarkable species, popularly
designated the Whip Orchid. In this the leaves
attain a length of 4 feet and upwards, not much
thicker than a lead pencil in any part. The
flowers occur in twos and threes, and are indi-
vidually 4 inches across, pale yellow on the sepals,
with chocolate markings, the lip creamy white,
with bright purple radiating lines. This was in-
troduced from British Guiana in 1834.

S. Keyseriana is closely allied to the latter
species and is identical in habit, but bears larger
and blighter coloured flowers. This was first ex-
hibited by Messrs. Sander and Co. in 1888.

H. R.

CYPRIPEDIUM CAUDATUM.

This remarkable and beautiful Orchid is now
flowering freely, and owing to the peculiar tail-
like appendages from which the species takes its
name it attracts a good deal of attention and
admiration. It belongs to the Selenipedium sec-
tion of the genus and produces from two to four
flowers upon the scape. The culture of C. cau-
datum is not difficult, nor is the plant at all fas-
tidious with regard to temperature, thriving well
in the Cattleya house, but better in more heat or
a full stove temperature. Here the plants posi-
tively enjoy life, producing stiff, leathery leaves
of that beautiful deep green that all growers of
Cypripediums like to see, the flower-scapes being
also more vigorous and healthy. These green-
leaved varieties do not seem so sensitive either to
watering overhead ; if not given too heavily or
often, it is decidedly beneficial by clearing away
accumulated dirt or insects. Soft, or rain water
must, however, be used, as hard water leaves a
white sediment behind on the leaves that is very
disfiguring and difficult to remove. The compost
for this Orchid must bevery free and open, nothing
in the least likely to become sour being retained.
Fibrous loam and peat in equal proportions and
with all sand and earthy parts sifted out, Sphag-
num Moss and charcoal will be an ideal compost,
and the drainage must have very careful attention.
Water must be plentifully supplied at the roots
at all seasons and the plants grown as strongly as
possible, this being the true secret of success with
this species. Small, puny growths have not the
strength to flower well, if at all. As the plants
get stronger and produce more vigorous growths,
fine healthy flower-spikes will follow. The best
time to repot is very early in spring, and although
Cypripediums dislike being disturbed it is far
better to repot biennially, or even annually if need
be, than to allow the plants to sicken from the
effects of a close, soddened compost. The typical
C. caudatum is a native of Peru and bears yellowis

43G

THE GARDEN

[June 22, 1895.

and brown flowers of varying tints, the colour
usually brighter towards the tips of the petals.
These latter have been known to grow to a length
of upwards of 30 inches, the effect of a good plant
in flower being very striking. The variety C. c.
Lindeni is supposed to be a freak of nature or
monstrosity. The lip of this form is said to be of
the same character as the petals, instead of the
usual pouch. This was found in 1848 growing
at a great elevation on the Cordilleras in deep,
shady woods. C. c. roseum is a very bright-
coloured form, discovered by Warscewicz growing
on the tops of trees in elevated positions in
Chiriqui. C. c. Wallisi has shorter petals and is
large and very distinctly coloured. The sepals
are white, veined with green, and the lip is also
white at the opening. R.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON ORCHIDS.
Up to the present the season has been very favour-
able for the growth of Orchids, and the plants in
the East India house are looking especially well.
Dendrobiums are growing very freely and can
hardly be kept too moist at the roots, those that
were repotted having by now obtained a good
hold on the compost. In order to give light and
room for the new growths, we have cut away many
of the old pseudo-bulbs both from the evergreen
and deciduous kinds, as although those of the
former may have given a chance spike or two, the
advantages aforesaid are decidedly greater.
D. Cambridgeanum has been making a pretty show
and is getting past its best. The pseudo-bulbs are
well finished and it will now be hung in a cooler,
more airy structure, but still kept fairly moist at
the root. After the leaves fall this species likes a
short rest, and I have usually placed it in the
open air for a time, returning it to the Cattleya
house on the approach of cold nights, and when
seen to be again starting placing in the warmest
house. Plants of D. chrysanthum that are finish-
ing their growths must not be dried, nor do they
need the tame amount of ripening as the deciduous
species generally. The flowers are always finer
and better in colour if the foliage is retained
until they are nearly or quite open. Cypripediums
must be carefully shaded now, an hour's exposure
to bright sunshine ruining the appearance of many
of them, especially those with the darker, more
tessellated foliage. These all require an abundance
of water at the roots now, needing attention almost
daily. What a gem is C. Schlimi where happily
situated, the plants being nearly always in flower.
The heat of the East India house is too much for
this kind at this time of the year ; but give it a
position in a shady house that does not go much
above 75° at any time, with a constant supply of
moisture to the roots and it is indeed at home ;
here the spikes are finer and the foliage attains a
much richer tint owing to the complete immunity
from insect pests, impossible in a very warm house.
In the Cattleya house C. Mossia> is getting over,
butC. Warneriand C. Gaskelliana are coming into
iiower. The old Brazilian C. Forbesi is apparently
not much grown, nor can it compare with the
labiita section for size or brilliance of colouring.
It is a slender growing species, somewhat resem-
bling C. intermedia, but the flowers are yellowish
with purple markings on the lip. The latest
plants of Miltonia vexillaria are now showing the
buds, the earliest being over. This species does
not rest very long as a rule, the growths appearing
at the base of the flowering pseudo-bulbs soon
after their beauty is past. There need be
no hurry in repotting the plants, a suitable
time being late in August or September, when the
growths are well on the move. Cleanliness is,
however, necessary at all times, and frequently,
owing to the dry atmosphere of the flowering
house, thrips make a little headway at this season.
If this is seen to be the case, no time should be
lost in effecting a riddance of them before they
attack the young shoots, for if they arc allowed to
do this, no after treatment will be really effectual.
Anguloa Clowesi is now flowering in the cool
house, the peculiarly constructed lip being very
attractive ; on account of its rocking motion it has

gained for these the name of Cradle Orchids.
These like a substantial compost and should be
seen to immediately the flowers fade. Rough
fibrous peat and loam with chopped Sphagnum
and potsherds will grow them well, and as they
require abundance of water, the drainage must
have special attention. Odontoglossum citrosmum
is growing freely, and as the cool house is so
heavily shaded, we grow this in the cool end of
the Cattleya house, the additional sunlight and
heat causing a more solid and therefore florifer-
ous habit of growth. The crispum section, and
also triumphans, luteo-purpureum, and others of
this class cannot now be kept too cool, a free
growth of the Sphagnum about the bases of the
pseudo-bulbs being also of great advantage.

Fire-heat has now been dispensed with in all
departments, the warm house not falling below
60°, though a little air has been left on the lower
ventilator. This induces a fresh, cool night tem-
perature such as all Orchids delight in, the mois-
ture collecting on the plants in the form of dew
keeping them cool till well on in the day. The
Cattleya house is kept as near 55° as possible,
though a few degrees less does no harm, and the
cool house is left wide open at night top and
bottom, nearly closing it during the day and
shading heavily. H. R.

Epidendrum Wallisi. — This very interesting
species grows from 4 feet to 6 feet in height, and
it is seldom so fine a specimen has been seen in
bloom as that in the collection of Mr. G. Fowler,
of Glebelands, Woodford. This specimen has
eight fine well-developed spikes of flowers, which
are exceedingly showy and effective. The blooms
each measure about 2 inches across ; the sepals
and petals clear bright yellow, spotted sparingly
with deep brown ; the lip large and spreading,
white, streaked and spotted with purple, with
three prominent raised lines of yellow at the base.
The stems are erect and slender, and spotted
with a purplish colour between the nodes. This
desirable plant is a native of New Grenada, where
it grows upon the Western Cordillera at some
5000 feet or 6000 feet elevation. It is one of the
finest kinds in this large genus, and will continue
producing flowers for several months in succes-
sion.—W. H. G.

Maxillaria tenuifolia —This quaint little
Orchid is now in flower, and fills the house with
its peculiar perfume. This is different to that of
any other kind that I know of, and has been
likened to salt butter. The pseudo-bulbs of this
speciesare produced oneabovetheother on the erect
rhizomes, and unless given new compost about
every third year they soon get weak. The foliage
is long and narrow ; hence the specific name. It
flowers freely, and the flowers ate about a couple
of inches in "width, bright yellow, spotted all over
with crimson. Being small and not particularly
showy it is not much grown, but one occasionally
comes across a good specimen, and when covered
with the bright little flowers they are by no
means unattractive. It is very easily grown,
thriving in the coolest part of the Cattleya house
in pots with a mixture of peat and Sphagnum.
Plenty of water is needed while growing, and
even during winter they must never be dried.
M. tenuifolia is a native of Mexico, having first
flowered in England at Chiswick in 1839. — R.

Odontoglossum Alexandras was one of the
principal features at' the Temple show last month,
when several novel and rare forms were shown.
Independent of the finely spotted varieties there
were some pure white kinds of exceptional merit,
and which would make admirable companions to
O. crispum virginale mentioned in The Garden
of May 18 last. The best was perhaps that shown
by Messrs. Sander and Co., of St. Albans, and
which was named O. crispum Duchess of York,
the raceme carrying a fine spike of bloom. The
individual flowers, although somewhat small,
were of the purest white, excepting a golden yel-
low disc on the lip. Another variety shown by
Baron H. Schrceder named O. crispum xanthotes
was also remarkable for its chasle and pure white

flowers, which, although of larger size and better
substance than the above, were not pure white,
having in addition to the yellow crest a few very
pale yellow spots on the sepals and petals ; this,
however, marks it at once as one of the most dis-
tinct. This may not be a complete list of the
pure white varieties, but they do not appear to
be at all numerous; the majority, although having
pure white sepals and petals, are more or less
spotted with reddish brown on the lip, or have
the segments flushed with a mauve tint. These
white and tinted varieties are mostly found in
localities lying from about twenty to thirty miles
south of Pacho.— W. H. G.

Lselia grandis tenebrosa. — This splendid
variety of L. grandis is apparently far from con-
stant in its time or manner of flowering. I have
known it to flower at once on the newly-formed
pseudo-bulbs after the manner of Cattleya labiata,
but more often it rests through the winter, carry-
ing the sheath and produces its flowers late in
spring or early summer, like C. Mossia?. But
whenever the flowers come they are invariably
welcome, the rich tints of purple and rose being
very distinct and of an unusual character in the
genus. The plant is of a strong, erect habit of
growth, the pseudo-bulbs varying a little in form,
and each bearing a fine large leaf. No difficulty
will be found in its cultivation in a house where
the usual run of Cattleyas and La-lias are satisfac-
tory, but for preference a large, roomy structure
should be chosen. Rather large pots should be
used, as the roots are exceptionally vigorous and
of a rambling tendency, and the compost must be
well aerated and used in a rough condition.
Though liking a good clear light, it must not be
placed too near the roof glass, being more satis-
factory at least a yard away. The flowers are
large and showy, each measuring 7 inches across.
The sepals and petals are spreading, brownish
purple, and the lip is broad, slightly frilled at the
margin, deep purple. There is, however, a good
deal of variation in the flowers, but all are strik-
ingly beautiful. — H.

CYCNOCftES CHLOROCHILON.

The Swan Orchids, as they are popularly known,
are not remarkable for either showiness or bright-
colouring, but several of the species are very in-
teresting and possess considerable beauty. The
species under notice is perhaps as much grown as
any, and will compare favourably with the others
as a garden plant. It has stout, fleshy green
pseudo-bulbs, which on strong plants attain a
height of about 15 inches, and these bear several
broad leaves upwards of 1 foot in length. The
flowers are produced in curving racemes, each
carrying from four to ten, individually about
5 inches across. The sepals and petals are
yellowish white, the lip pure white, with a yellow
or green blotch in the centre. The column is
slender, elongated and curved, the end containing
the pollen, swollen into an irregularly oblong knob.
The plants usually grow well the first few seasons
after being imported, but frequently show a dis-
position to go back afterwards. This is not
always the case, as I know of plants that have
been under cultivation for at least a dozen years,
and these are really better now than they weie
five years ago when I first saw them. The chief
points in their culture are good drainage and a
very distinct resting and growing season. They
are best grown in pots in a compost consisting of
good loam fibre, chopped Sphagnum and peat in
about equal proportions, with a few small pieces
of potsherd or charcoal to ensure a sound and
well aerated medium. They like a light position
and plenty of heat and atmospheric moisture
while growing, being well suited if given a place
alongside the deciduous Dendrobiums, care being
taken that the foliage does not suffer from too
bright sunshine. This will not occur if the atmo-
sphere is properly moistened at closing time, as a
film is thereby caused to collect over the glass
sufficient to keep them safe. From the time
growth is well on the move until the pseudo-bulbs
are complete they cannot w til be over-watered if

June 22, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

437

the drainage is good, but avoid wetting the leaves
with the syringe, as the water is very apt to
collect in the young growth, causing this to de-
cay. As soon as the leaves begin to turn colour
in autumn the water supply must be diminished
and almost wholly withheld during winter. At
this season the plants are best in a light, airy house
that never falls below about 52°, as if kept too
cool there is a danger of a black spot attacking
the pseudo-bulbs, which is very difficult to arrest
if once it obtains a hold on the plants. Early in
the new year the new growths will be seen to be
starting and the compost should then be put in
order if this is necessary. A thin surfacing of
Sphagnum Moss is beneficial, as it keeps the roots
moist without continual waterings, and the plants
must be at once placed again in the warm house,
when they will flower about the present time.
C. chlorochilon is a native of Demerara, whence
it was introduced in 1838. H. R.

Kitchen Garden.

VALUE OF DEEP CULTIVATION.

The present season undoubtedly shows the advan-
tage of deep digging, for in districts where but
little rain has fallen the crops on ground that was
not well tilled are in anything but a satisfactory
condition. In this neighbourhood we have only
had just over a quarter of an inch of rainfall
since April, and the soil has got so dry in places
that the Grass presents a burnt-up appearance.
In gardens also where the ground was not deeply
dug the crops are suffering seriously from the
effects of the dry weather. Early Peas that should
be at least 4 feet high have not exceeded 1 8 inches,
and many others in like manner show the want of
nourishment in the soil. Where ground was deeply
dug and well worked, the roots have been able to
penetrate in search of moisture, and on such,
vegetables in general are looking well. Potatoes
with us have never been more promising, as we
had no late spring frosts this season to injure
them. Peas, though a little late, are doing well,
and except for the slugs, which were so trouble-
some in April, would never have been better.
Gradus that was sown in pots and planted out in
March is now giving us a good supply ; the same
may be said of the Duke of York. These Peas
were said to be of medium height, but w'ith me
they are quite 5 feet even in this dry season. They
do not grow the same in all gardens, however, for
in some in this district the haulm is not more
than 18 inches, but the ground had not been
either deeply dug or well tilled ; hence the dry
weather has taken hold of them. Cauliflower in
some places is alrno.-t a failure, but where the
ground was in good heart and deeply dug they
look well ; the same may be said of Cabbage and
others of like nature. There is a vast difference
in the crops on poor, shallow ground, for many of
them look very sickly, even where water has been
afforded them, to say nothing of the extra labour
entailed in such work. Where the soil in kitchen
gardens is shallow, every means should be taken
to increase its depth, and though this cannot
always be done in a season or two, still with per-
severance in due time it may be rendered fertile
to a depth of 2 feet or even more. I would not,
however, recommend trenching, so that the poor
barren subsoil is brought to the surface, but by
adding manure and loosening up the ground an
inch or two more each season, there will soon be
sufficient depth for the roots of most crops.
Digging is usually done at a time of year when
work is not so pressing ; therefore there is no
reason why pains should not be taken to do the
work well. Most old gardens were well made in
the first instance, for where the soil was shallow
more was added till a sufficient depth was found
for all crops, and this to some extent accounts for
the excellent vegetables produced in them. There
are, however, favoured places where the soil is
naturally fertile for some depth if it were only
handled in the right manner. I have long advo-

vated deep cultivation for all vegetables, and
though some are only shallow rooting, they may
be succeeded by others that require a considerable
depth of earth to grow them well. If ground is
properly dug in wet seasons this will act as drain-
age by allowing the superfluous moisture to pass
through, while in dry seasons the roots are able
to penetrate to such a depth that the weather has
but little effect on the plants. H. C. P.

Preparing for winter Onions.— This note
ma}' seem uncalled for at present, but from the
fact that the firmer the ground is at sowing time
the better chance the crop has, timely prepara-
tion is certainly advisable. It is a good plan to
utilise the plot from which early hand-light or the
first transplanted Cauliflowers have been cleared,
and as this has been subjected to a continuous
traffic since last autumn in order to attend to the
wants of the plants, air has to a great extent been
excluded from that portion between the rows.
This plot, therefore, needs turning up and ex-
posure before another one is sown or planted on
it, and winter Onions will be the best to follow
the Cauliflower. Sometimes Cauliflower roots are
much infested with grubs, and a percentage of
these pests arc, of course, left in the ground when
the old stumps are pulled up. These need eradi-
cating, and in the necessary preparation for the
Onions this is effectually done. In the first place
wheel on to the plot an abundant supply of good
manure, a fair amount of soot, a little gas-lime,
and if at hand some burnt refuse or wood ashes.
Then take out a good wide trench at one end
some 15 inches in depth, and after spreading and
mixing all the ingredients on the surface proceed
to throw forward the soil into the trench, tho
roughly incorporating the manure, soot, and lime
as the work proceeds. Thus the young seedlings
will have a rich larder from the start instead of
having, as in the case of ordinary trenching, to
wait until three parts grown before the roots
reach the manure. Trenching completed, give a
good treading, repeating it in a month's time
and again at sowing time. — C. N.

Good dry weather Potatoes. — Various Po-
tatoes, like some sorts of Peas, stand a dry season
far better than others, growing better and not
giving way so soon. As belonging to this section
may be mentioned Early Puritan and Snowdrop.
These two varieties are doing well with me on a
light soil and with an almost total absence of
rain for many weeks. Both Snowdrop and Puri-
tan have now (the second week in June) good
tubers fit for lifting, the sets having been planted
in the third week in March, and growth, of
course, protected. Snowdrop ought to be more
largely grown, it being a good cropper, handsome,
and of unsurpassed flavour, and keeping well
until Potatoes are ready again in spite of its
being a second early sort. Mr. Tallack, of Liver-
mere Park, last year wrote in praise of Snowdrop,
it beiner, if I remember right, his favourite Po-
tato.— J. Crawford.

Chi lies and Capsicums. — These are much
valued in many gardens, especially where sauces
and pickles are a speciality in the dining-room.
The plants will now be in free growth, and will
need shifting on into pots a size larger before they
become in the least pot-bound. A moist growing
atmosphere is essential for their well-being, means
being taken for preserving the foliage free from
insects. Both spider and green-fly are great
enemies of the Capsicum, thus necessitating the
free use of the syringe twice daily. Sometimes
the fruits set too freely, and if all are allowed to
remain till matured, the plant makes poor growth,
and the weight of fruit in the aggregate is smaller
than when judicious thinning is practised. The
yellow varieties grown by some for ornament are
most attractive in autumn and well repay good
culture. Good loam and a free admixture of
rotten manure suit them best, feeding with farm-
yard manure water tending to increase their
vigour when once the pots are becoming filled with
roots. Do not expose the plants to the full blaze
of the sun, or the foliage will lose its deep green

colour and be liable to scorch should it be caught
in a wet condition. Towards autumn as soon as
the fruits are three parts coloured removal to a
cooler and more airy house is advisable. — C N.

Grubs in Cauliflowers. — How often these are
affected by a small white coloured maggot which
clusters in colonies around the lower part of the
stem and roots. This pest is often the cause of
failure in batches of Cauliflower, which until three
parts grown and about to heart in look splendid.
I have often thought that, in addition to dressing
land addicted to this enemy with gas-lime, burnt
refuse and soot at digging time, it would be well
when planting to mix a percentage of these in-
gredients with the soil round the roots, as all
grubs and similar pests are certainly opposed to
such a mixture. It is not a good plan to replant
a plotdirectlyCaulirlowerswhichhave beenaffected
with this maggot are cleared off. The better
plan is to well dress it and allow it to remain un-
cropped six weeks, although of course when
ground is scarce this cannot always be done.
-J. C.

Carrots. — Where wireworm and grubs have
made gaps in the main sowings of Carrots, it is
not too late for sowing again, providing proper
sorts are sown. Scarlet Model, Nantes Horn
and Market Favourite will do well, being quick
growers. Prepare the ground thoroughly by in-
corporating plenty of soot, wood ashes and burnt
garden refuse, this being obnoxious to all insect
pests and promoting a vigorous growth. It is
also a good plan to sow small batches of some
quick-maturing Carrot several times during the
summer, these being most useful for drawing in
quite a young state. Odd corners or nooks not
large enough for any other crop may be used for
them, as it is not large quantities that are needed,
but a succession of joung sweet roots. — J. C.

THE ASPARAGUS KNIFE.

Mr. Kesip shows on p. 362 — and many of us have
proved by thousands of examples in practice — that
the knife is wholly unnecessary. True, a little
tact and knowledge of the roots and shoots of
Asparagus are needful to deftly twist them off
at the right point without breaking the crisp
shoot through at the wrong place : but this art is
soon acquired, and we get a maximum of edible
grass with a minimum of injury to the growing
roots and succession shoots. The blind, blunder-
ing knife, even in skilful hands, can hardly escape
serious injury to both, whilst the knife in ignorant
hands has maimed and ruined tens of thousands
of promising Asparagus beds.

No sort of knife is needed for gathering Aspara-
gus shoots on or near the level ; hence the aboli-
tion of the knife in Asparagus grounds will also
deliver the plants from that living death and
semi-burial to which so many of them are sub-
jected The depth of this crown burial varies
from 0 inches to 2 feet. Last autumn afforded
special facilities for observing on a large
scale the autumnal or winter dressing of com-
mercial Asparagus well known in our London
markets. That dressing consisted of a soil cover-
ing over a foot deep to a mat of weeds that covered
the surface. The beds were 3 feet wide, with alleys
between, and there were two or three rows of plants
on each bed. The soil was dug out of the alleys
and heaped over the weeds, leaving thousands of
roots wounded and bleeding in the process. And
yet it was said on the spot that this dressing was
the only manure these Asparagus beds had had for
twenty years. If so, the vigour of the plants
furnished marvellous proofs of their powers of
endurance. Many of the crowns must have been
18 inches or more from the surface. This system
of heavy soil dressings in the autumn and winter
to be raked partly down in the early spring also
largely prevails in other parts. Without further
discussion as to its benefits or otherwise, I only
remark here and now that it renders the abolition
of the Asparagus knife almost impossible. For
Asparagus differs from most other plants in this.
Blanch most of these, the more crisp, sweet, and

438

THE GARDEN

[June 22, 1895.

tender they grow. Blanch or bury Asparagus,
and it is tough, tasteless, and useless, unless as a
handle to the depths blanched. This woody con-
sistency of blanched shoots, as well as the obstruc-
tion of the over-happy soil, would render impos-
sible Mr, Kemp's quick and easy method of
gathering Asparagus on the flat. No doubt his
recommendation, which I heartily endorse, will
be gladly adopted by many, to the great improve-
ment of their Asparagus through its dual deliver-
ance from burial alive and the knife.

D. T. F.

Autocrat Pea. — This comparatively new Pea
is, I think, destined to become a general favourite.
One good point in its favour is the free, stout
growth it makes on light, warm soils. Many of the
strong growers, while doing well enough on ground
which contains plenty of moisture, soon give way
at the bottom of the haulm on shallow soils dur-
ing dry weather. I have sown Autocrat on an
open border at the same time as the early
varieties, and it grows well thus early, and follow-
ing these closely, comes in most useful, being a
fine Pea of delicious flavour and a profitable
cropper. I have also sown it at the end of
February or beginning of March with such well-
known sorts as Stratagem, Stourbridge Marrow,
Exhibition Marrowfat and others, and it can hold
its own with them all. The produce from this
sowing has enabled me to prove its great resisting
powers. It is also useful for sowing in June along
with Ne Plus Ultra for late use. — J. C.

Veitch's Extra Early Forcing: Cauli-
flower.— On January 28 I sowed with other
seeds a pinch of the above, and as soon as the
plants had made their rough leaves, they were
pricked into boxes and ultimately planted out on
a south border without the slightest protection,
with the exception of what the wall afforded. By
June 1 I could have cut nice little heads of snowy
whiteness, but my supply of Late Queen Broccoli
was not exhausted ; therefore I was not anxious
to begin cutting for a few days. In our case this
year this Cauliflower will over-lap Late Queen
Broccoli a fortnight. I have grown several varie-
ties of early Cauliflowers, but none have proved
so early and reliable as this. Veitch's Pearl
sowed the same time is now very robust-looking,
and will, I have no doubt, follow close after the
above. I consider these the two best and most
reliable early Cauliflowers grown, and with me
they do away with the necessity of autumn sow-
ing.— J. Easter, Nostell Priory Gardens.

Books.

A DICTIONARY OF HORTICULTURE.

Havinc: but a few days ago had the opportunity
of reading the critique by " W. M." in The
Garden on M. A. M. C. Jongkindt Coninck's
work, " A Dictionary of the Principal Terms used
in Botany and Horticulture," may I ask you to
give me space to say a few words in reply ?

As an old pupil of M. Coninck's, and one who
has given him some little assistance with the
" Dictionary" by revising the English part of it,
it is natural that I should take some interest in
endeavouring to bring out its merits before those
who, like " W. M.," are unable to see the useful
side, or the reason d'etre of such a work. Doubt-
less, as " W. M." points out, it would be ex-
tremely useful to possess a polyglot dictionary of
common gardening terms, such as "bell-glass,"
"layering," "mulching," &c, and I for one should
hail such a work with satisfaction. But in com-
piling his dictionary M. Coninck has entertained
an entirely different notion of the needs of the
present-day horticultural world. He has per-
ceived that a correct knowledge of the names of
plants, together with the terms used in describ-
ing them and their immediate equivalents in the
various languages, is of far more importance to
the rising generation of plant growers than a
compilation, however well planned, of such common

horticultural terms as " W. M." has named. Tech-
nical education of this kind will be proved in the
long-run to be a sine qua non as well to the nursery-
man as to the agriculturist, and by the publica-
tion of his dictionary M. Coninck is undoubtedly
helping to spread broadcast this necessary element.

A dictionary of this kind, and not one such as
" W. M." has proposed, well and proper as the
latter would be in its place, supplies such infor-
mation as will enable plant growers to correctly
name their plants, to understand these names,
and to give, when occasion requires, a true and
definite description of the plants in the different
languages.

In contemplating the evident practical useful-
ness of such knowledge, it seems to me high time
that nurserymen and gardeners began to take a
more intelligent interest in the individual charac-
ters and needs of the plants they cultivate, and
these characters and needs are often revealed in
the generic or the specific name of the plant.

As M. Crepin justly remarks in the preface to
this little book, its value largely lies in the fact
that it will save the continual fumbling through
voluminous dictionaries. Moreover, contrary to
what "W. M." has asserted, the equivalent
English, French, German or Dutch translations of
very many of the words, as I myself have often
found by experience, are not to be discovered in
ordinary Latin dictionaries, of however high a
standard they may be, and it was usually only
after searching through scattered botanical works
that the proper terms were obtained.

M. Coninck's work is not a "Dictionary of
Horticultural Terms," but a " Dictionary of the
Principal Terms used in Botany and Horticul-
ture," and its arrangement is such as to render
easy an acquaintance with these terms in the
various languages.

But I am not alone in my conception of the
value of this work. Is the consensus of opinion
of twenty-three of the leading horticultural papers
in Europe to count for nothing ? And how is it
that the adverse criticism of "W. M." is the only
one which has been forthcoming?

I am confident that it is the technical botanical
knowledge which in the future will produce
capable cultivators, and will tend to effect the
interchange of sound and scientific ideas between
the various nations of the horticultural world.

The raison d'etre, then, of this work is sufficiently
evident, and at some future time we will hope to
see it revised and amplified, some of those terms
which are less directly useful being omitted and
others included in its pages. — W. C. W.

In the latter half of his communication

"W. C. W." fully admits all that I have advanced.
Only a dozen or so of horticultural terms are
given. Anyone who cares to trouble himself
about the matter should get a copy of M. Coninck's
dictionary and look through it, and then read
what I said about it in The Garden. I am quite
content to abide by the judgment of any sensible
man as to the justice of my remarks when he has
done this.— W. M.

The Horticulturist's Rule-Book.*— A book
that deals with the best methods of waging war-
fare against the many fungoid and insect pests
that are ever present and ready to discount our
best endeavours is bound to be of service. A vast
amount of useful information as to pests and
remedies lies scattered that it is most desirable to
have collected in a handy form available for ready
reference, and we have it in this manual which,
originally compiled in 1889, has now reached its
third edition, which is revised and up to date.
The author remarks "that the contents have been
gleaned from many sources," and such a mass of
useful information is the result, that the book
should become a standard work of reference essen-
tial alike to all who have to deal with plant life,
whether for pleasure or profit. The first chapter
deals with insecticides, and others follow on in-
jurious insects, with remedies and preventives,

plant diseases and remedies, injuries from roden's,
lawns, weeds and moss, waxes for grafting,
cements, mortars, paints and glues ; with many
more chapters containing seed planting and com-
putation tables, rules and useful items of informa-
tion, all tabulated alphabetically and indexed for
ready reference. The price of the book, which is
only 75 cents, happily places it within the means
of all who may happen to need it.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1019.

THE GLADIOLUS-FLOWERED CANNAS.

(with a coloured plate.*)

No class of plants grown for the sake of their
flowers has come more prominently to the front
than have these beautiful forms of the Indian
Shot during the past two or three years. This
dwarf race of Cannas with large trusses and
proportionately large flowers originated in
France, M. Crozy, of Lyons, being the intro-
ducer of these fine decorative flowering plants.
One of the first varieties to be certificated in
this country was Mme. Crozy, which received
that award in 1S90 when shown by Messrs.
Paul and Son. The same firm during the
following four years received for other varieties
no less than nineteen additional certificates.
This fact alone is sufficient to indicate the pro-
gress that has been made in this race, variation
in colour both in selfs, margined and spotted
kinds being particularly noteworthy. In its
way, however, Mme. Crozy still holds its own ;
its bright crimson flowers edged with gold make
it conspicuous, the petals being individually
large and the habit dwarf and compact. An-
other and more recently introduced variety is
Konigin Charlotte (W. Pfitzer), which must be
deemed one of the very finest yet raised, having
all the good qualities of the preceding with
larger trusses and in greater profusion. It is of
vigorous, yet very dwarf growth, the massive
fofiage adding to its beauty ; its spikes are
borne well above the leaves, the individual
flowers being large, bright red in colour, with
a broad golden or canary-yellow margin.
This variety recently at the Temple show
was shown in the finest condition by Messrs.
H. Cannell and Sons, Messrs. H. Low and Co.,
and Messrs. Paul and Son. It may be so grown
as to flower at almost any season of the year,
but this is scarcely desirable. Another notable
variety is Cheshunt Yellow, which was the first
English raised Canna to receive a certificate
of merit. It is a great advance in the
pure yellows with compact spikes of bright
clear yellow flowers, and, like the preceding,
is also well suited to either pot culture or for
bedding out. As an example of the spotted
forms, Amiral Avellan should be noted ; it has
large clear yellow flowers, spotted profusely with
red° Another beautiful spotted kind is found in
Antoine Barton, in which the ground colour is
also yellow, but with carmine spots. Of the
self-coloured varieties note should be made of
Alphonse Bouvier, deep crimson, very dwarf ;
Sophie Buchner, bright Vermillion, a very fine
variety, with handsome foliage as well ; Prim-
rose, clear lemon-yellow, very distinct and free ;
Baron M. de Hirsch, crimson-scarlet, with
yellow border ; Paul Bruant. rich violet-
crimson ; Emperor William 2nd, bright scarlet,
an extra fine variety ; and Tom Thumb, which
bids fair to be the forerunner of an even dwarf er

* "The Horticulturist's Eule-Bo"k." By L^ H.
Bailey. Macmillan and Co., London and New York.

* Drawn for The Garden in iiessrs. Cannell's
nursery at Swanlev by A(?nts Cook. Lithographed
and printed by Guillaume Severe} ns.

-

■

FRE H CI AS.

l. s/ l._2 :.

June 22, 1895. J

THE GARDEN

439

race, flowering freely when not more than 1
foot in height. The foregoing are a selection of
one dozen of the best kinds typical of this new
race ; others could be added, for already, as in
other instances, the new varieties are becoming
very numerous, too much so in some respects
when the variation is but slight. As regards

Culture,
we cannot do better than quote the advice
given by Mr. George Paul in a paper read
before the Horticultural Club in November,
1893, wherein he states : —

The outdoor culture of the Gladiolus-flowered
Cannas is simple. Prepare the ground as for
Dahlias, choose young growing plants, and plant,
if on a lawn, in large beds about 3 feet apart, in
rich soil ; and, beyond some watering to establish
the plants and a possible mulching if the weather
be dry, nothing more is needed. The earlier they
are planted out the better, as long as it is past
the time of May frosts. They soon flower and
keep on until they are either cut down like the
Dahlia, when they may be either lifted and stored
in a similar manner, or, better still, they can be

utilised for winter flowering I think the

secret of pot culture is alternating the periods of
growth and rest. The constant potting of the
plants into larger pots, say three times a year, is
to be deprecated, as they become specimens too
clumsy to handle ; but if kept in the same pots
they should be heavily and highly mulched.
Soil : Sandy loam and rotted manure. They take
much water, like most large-leaved plants, but
need good drainage.

To these remarks it should be added that
increase is readily effected by division of the
rhizomes, each leader of which will make a
plant. Seedlings also are easily raised, this
process giving prospect of variety. To flower
these Cannas early in the season, i.e., from
March onwards to May, a gentle heat is neces-
sary, with a fair amount of atmospheric
moisture ; light also is essential to preserve a
dwarf growth. If it is deemed desirable to cut
the spikes, it is well to state, for the benefit of
those who have not noted it, that in so doing
the secondary spike which emanates from the
base of the first may thus be cut away, the
plant being thus shorn of a part of its beauty.

H. G.

Orchard and Fruit Garden,

APPLE JUNEATING.

This early Apple is sometimes known by the
names of Margaret and Early Red Margaret,
and wherever grown it is greatly appreciated
for its earliness, pretty colour and pleasant
flavour for dessert. Old people whose teeth
are not very good are especially fond of
Juneating, as the flesh is soft, very juicy and
just the sort of Apple they like. Soil and
situation affect the shape of the fruit to some
extent, as in some counties the fruit is very
round (as in the illustration), while in some
other parts it comes slightly angular. In two
orchards here we have the fruit different in
shape, though exactly similar in colour and
taste, which proves that the soil does influence
the form of the fruit. A landowner who de-
sires to plant an orchard of Apple trees for his
home supply should include Juneating in the
selection of varieties, as it is one of the best
and earliest dessert sorts that could be planted.
Seasons naturally hasten or retard the ripening
period. Twice within the past ten years I have
gathered this variety at the end of the second
week in July, and in cold, wet years the fruit
has not been ready until a month later ; but

even if the Apples ale nut lipe before the second
week in August, there are so very few really
good dessert Apples ready then that Juneating
is valuable, affording a welcome change on the
dessert table. Another excellent recommenda-
tion is the fertility of the trees, particularly
those in standard form. This arises from several
causes, the greatest being the early maturing of
the fruit. Any kind of fruit tree that ripens
its crop very early is relieved of its load some
months before the fall of the leaf, which enables
it to recover in a great measure from any ex-
haustion experienced in perfecting its fruit. I
could mention several well-known kinds of fruit
that are universally known for their heavy and
continuous crops, all and each of which ripen
their fruit early like the Juneating Apple.
Again, the early removal of the crop throws the
full energy of the tree into bud-formation, and
unless climatic conditions are very bad indeed
the fruit buds are so strong and well formed,
that a good set is practically assured. Trees of
Juneating are moderately strong growers, and
standards will not become too crowded at 25
feet apart each way, as the soil must be of the
most fertile character to promote a growth that
would cause the trees to touch each other at such
a distance. Another reason for their moderate
growth is, as already stated, the prolific habit

attacked by insect foes. Already aphis in different
forms is infesting Plum and Cherry trees. Red
spider is becoming much in evidence on almost all
wall trees that have suffered through lack of
moisture — in fact, when once a tree gets into a
weak state through any cause, insect enemies are
sure to be particularly severe upon it. — W. G. C.

Gooseberry Keepsake. — The Gooseberry
crop is not a very heavy one this year, but they
are unusually large with us, even the smallest-
berried varieties being larger now than is the
case most years when ripe. The first to pick this
season was Keepsake, which was a week earlier
than its rival, Whinham's Industry. As I stated
in The Garden a year or so ago. Keepsake was
and is probably now very extensively grown at
Toddington, on Lord Sudeley's fruit farm, Mr.
Wise, who so ably manages the estate, informing
me that it was the best Gooseberry they grew.
After some nine years' experience of it and other
sorts, I must endorse the opinion of Mr. Wise, as
the Keepsake, in addition to the good qualities
already named, rapidly forms a large bush if
planted on good soil and well treated afterwards.
Again, most gardeners will have observed how
some varieties of Gooseberries are always the first
to be attacked by the caterpillar and red spider,
which quickly spreads to other trees unless
checked. Whenever these pests appear I have
observed that Early Sulphur is the first to be
infested, and Keepsake the last, an item of some
importance with a Gooseberry that is marketed
while green. Not only is the variety of value to
the grower for sale, but equally so to the gar-
dener who has to maintain a continuous supply
of fruit for his employer's table. Most of us
know how frequent the inquiries are, " When
will the Gooseberries be ready "? " some cooks
putting this query almost as soon as the embryo
berries are formed, thus proving how accentable
early fruit will be. As a change from Rhubarb
or late Apples, Keepsake is an acquisition to the
gardener in a private establishment, enabling him
to pick berries early, or, what is sometimes of
vital importance to him, as soon as they can be
got anywhere. — W. G. C.

Apple Juneating. From a photograph sent by
Mr. J. Norman Blake, Bedjord.

of the trees. I have only had experience with
half-a-dozen bush trees of Juneating, but they
have been equally as satisfactory in every re-
spect as standards, while some cordons have
not answered, the growth, foliage and fruit
being decidedly poor in spite of extra care and
attention to the roots. Possibly the latter trees
have failed through being worked upon the
French Paradise stock. W. G. C.

Watering- wall trees.— Owing to the long
drought, which has every appearance of continuing
at present (June 11), wall trees are exhibiting
signals of distress even where mulched. Not only
does the foliage begin to look pale in colour, but
the fruit is also assuming an unhealthy tint. In
this part (Herefordshire) our rainfall is over 3
inches below the average for the year, or in other
words, over 300 tons per acre short. In the open
ground this is a serious deficit, but against walls
it is more so. Not only do wall trees get generally
less water when it rains, as the wall itself prevents
it when the wind is in certain quarters, but the
evaporation is greater than in the open ground,
consequently they suffer more or less during a
period of drought. If water is plentiful and labour
can be spared to apply it, a thorough soaking to
the roots will prove of intrinsic value to the trees,
conferring a present and future benefit on them.
Trees that lack moisture at the root can neither
develop their fruit nor form good fruit-buds for
another season, and the foliage is certain to b-'

YOUNG STRAWBERRY PLANTS FOR
EARLY FRUITING.

Those who require early Strawberries in the
open would do well to plant young plants yearly
for the purpose. So far I have found Noble by far
the best, the fruits being very fine and quite ten
days earlier than those from older plants. Noble
planted on a warm border specially for the purpose
will give a splendid return when Strawberries
are none too plentiful during the first or second
week in June. The land should be well cultivated
by deep digging, with abundant manure, but
even then these results must not be expected from
weak, puny plants. I have for a few seasons
adopted an easy plan to get strong young plants
for the first crop in the open. I obtain my forcing
runners from plants specially grown to produce
them, and, wantinglargenumbers, have to purchase
a few hundreds for planting in the open. As it is
out of the question getting them strong or early
enough to plant out then, the plants are potted
when they arrive, placed under a north wall, and
kept for early spring planting in March. Such
plants are a little longer about, but it is a great
gain to have strong plants with a mass of roots
instead of weakly runners deficient of roots, a
portion being lost in severe weather, and those
left weak and not in condition to fruit the first
season. Those who do not wish to pot up may
plant them close together in rows and lift in the
spring with a ball, but I favour pots, as then there
is no check, and if carefully planted growth is
rapid, and the plants by the following spring will
be equal in size to three-year-old plants, but with
more vigour, giving very fine fruits. If strong
runners can be obtained in June or early
in July, then fine fruits may be had in
less than twelve months from time of planting.
This is the best method, and in gariens where

440

THE GARDEN.

[June 22, 1895.

the runners can be obtained very good results
will follow. Though the crop will not be so large
as from plants given a few more months, if the
time the ground is occupied be taken into ac-
count, I would strongly advise this mode of
culture. My reason for adopting the first named
plan is potting up runners in August, or even
September is more convenient, and runners when
received from the trade grower have never many
roots ; a few hundred plants are soon potted up,
and make tine material for spring planting. The
plants are plunged in the soil over the rims of
the pots in early winter, the flower-trusses re-
moved when they show in the spring after plant-
ing out, and they are given ample space in the
rows when planted. Noble is the very best
Strawberry I have tried for the purpose named,
as it is vigorous and free bearing, and though the
quality may not be first-rate, I have never had
any objection on that score, as early fruits are not
expected to be equal to those ten days or a fort-
night later. To get Strawberries early there
must be vigour, only one fruiting season must be
allowed, with the ground specially prepared. If
time or circumstances do not permit of growing
in the shorter period, the system advised is well
worth a trial. In all cases the value of young
plants is well known, much better results being
secured, such plants often succeeding where older
plants fail. G. Wythes.

Pruning dwarf Apple trees.— There are

three ways of pruning dwarf Apple trees in vogue,
and no doubt all have very good results generally,
though none seem to show better average crops
than do the dwarf trees at Chiswick, where the
method of pruning does not consist of shortening
the shoots or branches, but in keeping them well
thinned out, so that the trees have a loose and, in
some cases, almost drooping growth. It is rare
that these trees do not carry a good crop. In
some gardens dwarf trees have their branches
thin, but hard-spurred, treated reallyas if cordons ;
in others the trees are repressed, by having the
branches as well as the shoots shortened, so that
in time they become stiff stocky bushes. It would
be very interesting, had we gardens at our disposal,
to test the relative values of all three systems on
the same sorts of Apples side by side.— A. D.

Cardinal, Early Rivers and Lord Napier

Nectarines.— Whilst most ready to admit that
Early Rivers is a splendid early Nectarine, I con-
fess not liking to see it exalted at the expense of
Lord Napier, quite one of the best in cultiva-
tion. At the Temple show, apart from the fine col-
lection of pot trees of Cardinal and Early Rivers
shown by Mr. Rivers, and in another tent, was
a small pot tree of Lord Napier having a few
halfgrown green fruits on it. By its side were
dishes of the new Cardinal, and beside also a card,
stating that this tree of Lord Napier had been
subjected to just the same treatment as the trees
which bore the ripe Cardinal fruits. The natural
inference was that Cardinal identically treated
was fully four weeks earlier than Lord Napier.
Then it was not evident that Cardinal in the group
was any earlier than Early Rivers— indeed, I do
not learn that it is held to be earlier. Somewhat
sceptical as to this immense difference between
these two sorts and Lord Napier, and seeing close
by some fine fruits of the Early Rivers and Lord
Napier from that first-class fruit grower, Mr.
Mclndoe; thinking, too, it was very likely that
these came from the same house, I ventured to
write to him and ask the conditions under which
these fruits were grown. I have from him a most
courteous reply, in which he states that the two va-
rieties were gathered from trees grown in a 70-feet
lean-to house at Hutton Hall, side by side in the
middle, and, of course, getting exactly the same
heat. The house was started December 1 ; the
first fruit of Early Rivers was gathered on May 1 1
and the first from Lord Napier on May 10, or only
a difference of five days. This period corresponded
exactly with what was found in ripening last year.
It is but right, in the face of what was shown at
the Temple, this impartial testimony as to the

relative carliness of these two fine Nectarines and
the new Cardinal shouH be made known, as also
Mr. Mclndoe's testimony that there can be no
doubt about Early Rivers being a splendid addi-
tion to the many fine varieties raised at Sawbridge-
worth. The moral of this information is that
with Early Rivers first, Lord Napier directly fol-
lows in succession. — A. D.

Spraying' trees, &c— One of the things we
are continually preaching is the importance of
checking the depredations of insects and fungi
I by the aid of antidotes sprayed over trees and
crops. The preaching is tacitly admitted to be
the thing, but is rarely acted upon. If we are to
credit all we hear from the American orchards, it
would seem as if the special function of the fruit
grower across the Atlantic was one long contest,
through the aid of spraying, with insect life.
Here there is often ample need for the warfare,
and yet it is little waged. Already do we hear in
various directions complaints of the prevalence of
caterpillars on Apple trees, and very much so on
forest trees, and especially on Gooseberry bushes.
Still there is so much of comparative helplessness
or indifference because the use of undoubted anti-
dotes seems to be rare. In America we learn that
spraying of fruit trees with powerful insecticides
has been rendered scientifically exact. Here a
sprayer of any sort seems to be rarely used. Even
with Gooseberry bushes it seems to be regarded
as less an evil to see every leaf eaten up than to
dress them once or twice with Hellebore powder.
Even when the Potato fungus is rampant very
few indeed trouble to give sulphate of copper and
lime dressings to the foliage, although it is no-
torious that this compound is a wonderful anti-
dote to the disease. This sort of negligence
should not be found in large gardens, and espe-
cially in market gardens. In rural districts,
where gardens are small and appliances are diffi-
cult to obtain, it seems desirable that local autho-
rities should provide not only appliances, but also
duly qualified persons to utilise them at moderate
charges. The long-continued drought which at
present is obnoxious to fungoid attacks seems to
be breeding insect life wholesale. — A. D.

MUTILATING FRUIT TREES.
In some gardens, or some employers seem to
think, a tidy appearance of paramount importance,
but this may easily be overdone. By all means
keep weeds under and also remove anything of a
rubbishy character, but do not extend the craze
for neatness to the fruit trees. It must not be
thought that I would let these take their chance
or grow wildly. They must be attended to in due
course, though not to the extent of making all
as trim as possible. Wall trees ought certainly
to be summer-pruned and have all their lead-
ing shoots laid in straightly, otherwise they
will become crooked to the extent of breaking
when the attempt is made to straighten them next
winter. Quite recently I visited an enclosed
garden the walls of which were well furnished
with fruit trees. Evidently enough these had
been properly treated in the past and capital
crops of fruit were set on most of the trees. This
season a change of gardeners has been made, and
the owner of the place thought the opportunity a
good one for carrying out his own ideas as to how
these trees should be summer-pruned. All the
lateral growths on all the Plums, Apricots and
Pears have been as closely shortened back as they
ought really to have been next winter, and in the
cases of the two first named there appears to be
more fruit hanging than there are leaves on the
trees. Such an wholesale removal of growth must
have had a most injurious effect upon the trees.
Nothing short of a very severe thinning out of the
fruit will prevent the rest from being of second-
rate quality ; whereas had the stopping been
properly done there would have been grand crops
of fruit. Pruning to the second small leaf, or even
to the first full-sized leaf, would inevitably cause
the whole of the buds at the axils of these few
leaves to push into growth this summer, and, in

fact, they were already doing so when I saw them.
The bad effects, therefore, of this severe pruning
will be apparent for the next two or three years,
so many leafy growths forming where there ought
to have been fruit spurs or buds. Lateral growths
on sweet Cherries, Plums, Apricots and Pears
may now be stopped at the fifth leaf, and any sub-
sequent breaks from these be pinched back to the
6rst leaf, this having the effect of diverting the
sap to quarters where it is most needed and
to plump up the back buds or those that it
is desirous should develop into fruiting spurs
or buds. Tree- thus treated will not present
an untidy appearance, especially if the lead-
ing growths are neatly fastened back to the
walls, wires, or trellises, as the case may be.
None but amateurs need be told that Peaches
and Morello Cherries are most freely produced by
well ripened wood of the previous year's growth,
and the aim, therefore, should be to lay in a
sprinkling of well- placed shoots all over the trees.
Avoid over-doing this, as it is of importance that
plenty of sunshine or daylight reach not merely
the wood, but also the fruit, neither maturing
properly if smothered up by leaves. Bush and
pyramid fruit on dwarfing stocks grown in the
open are in many instances very closely summer-
pruned, and when this treatment is accompanied
by annual or biennial winter lifting and root
pruning there are usually plenty of fruit-buds
every season. Those, however, who prefer to
have larger, more naturally grown trees and
heavier crops of fruit should not be too particular
as to a neat appearance just now, and ought espe-
cially to avoid the form of mutilation alluded i >
at the commencement of these notes. It cannut
be too often pointed out that the harder a natur-
ally vigorous tree is pruned the more it will grow
and the less likely will it be to crop freely. Root-
pruning carried out piecemeal, one half being
done one autumn and the other half a year later,
will usually prove a good correction of grossness
and unproductiveness, but we cannot be always
root-pruning, and the very simple plan of leaving
a good sprinkling of unpruned wood all over a
vigorous tree will be nearly or quite as certain to
have the effect of making an hitherto unproduc-
tive tree profitable enough. The first step to-
wards this desirable end should be taken now or
during the next month. Where the trees are at
all crowded, thin out the young shoots freely,
treating them much as advised in the case of
laterals on wall trees, but many of the best placed
growths should be left intact with a view to also
leaving them unpruned next winter. This thin-
ning out or shortening of much of the lateral
growth on bush and pyramid trees will favour the
ripening of the fruit, and the wood will also be
better matured than would have been the case
had no pruning been done. Treat espalier-trained
trees and cordons similarly to wall trees, avoid-
ing very close pruning. W. I.

NATURE VERSUS ART.

Although stiffness and formality have of late
years in a great measure disappeared from the
flower garden, thanks chiefly to the persistent
preaching of the apostles of Nature v. Art, one is
is often discouraged by chancing upon gardens,
some of them large, some but a yard or two in
extent, upon which evident and loving labour has
been expended, with a result that makes the heart
of the lover of Nature sick within him. Who does
not know the flint or clinker erections, fashioned
with infinite, but fiendish ingenuity, of some rail-
way or coastguard stations? Once, indeed, at
one of the former I saw a spar and clinker loco-
motive that must have taken months to complete.
These receptacles generally contain a few Wall-
flowers, Antirrhinums, or Marigolds, flowers that
with their natural setting of brown or red earth
or grass verge have a simple charm that they are
effectually bereft of by their blatant caskets. To
such gardeners, however, a sense of delicacy
makes it difficult to speak one's thoughts. I
always find when it comes to the point that I am

June 22, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

441

too much of a coward to condemn to the proprietor
what to him is evidently such a source of pride, and
end by leaving him to worship the goddess Flora
after the manner of his mistaken sect, which, alas !
is not to be met with only in the small plot of the
working man. for in many a large garden the time-
honoured motto ara est cdare artem is glaringly
ignored.

I have in my mind a public garden which might
be very beautiful ; even with all the sins of com-
mission that have been perpetrated within its
borders it is still beautiful. The first impression
forced upon the stranger on entering is that the
gardener's chief aim is to impress upon the public's
notice the grandmotherly care that he takes of
his charges. Nothing is allowed to grow 6 inches
hio'h without a stick and a tie. Torture at the stake
islipparent on every side. During the last sum-
mer bushy Fuchsias were planted in quantity and
their shoots tied to yellow Bamboo canes, some of
the specimens being fixed up with as many as
twenty : in fact, the poor plants seemed always
of secondary importance to the conspicuous
sticks that spread them out so stiffly. A bed
of giant Sunflowers had inch-square stakes over
6 feet in length driven into the ground beside
each plant before the latter were 2 feet
above the soil ; consequently, until the flowers
were produced and growth completed, the stakes
were the chief feature of the plot, and some of
the plants not growing over 4 feet high never
attained to more than two-thirds of the height of
their respective supports. The most striking
error, however, in the matter of staking in this
garden occuned in the case of a flowering Aloe
(Agave americana). I noticed the flower-spike
just as it protruded from the huge serrated leaves :
so evident!}' had the ever-watchful staker, for a
deep excavation was being commenced at a dis-
tance of about 3 feet, and on the next occasion of
my passing a gigantic must about 20 feet in
height, like an emerald-green scaffolding pole,
towered over the abashed succulent. As the
spike, far slenderer than its bulky wooden com-
panion, grew it was securely fastened at intervals
to the pole, which was eventually shortened to
about 12 feet, the height of the Aloe's flower-spike.
Now if support had been necessary in this case, it
could have been easily given in a way that would
have been almost unnoticeable ; but as bad gales
do not occur during the English summer, and as
the Aloes' candelabra weather in their thousands
man}' a bitter gale in their native habitats with-
out being levelled to the ground, the inference is
that the disfigurement was entirely gratuitous.
It spoilt the quaint effect of the Aloe's inflores-
cence and was merely a monument of misjudg-
ment.

On the largest piece of turf in the garden of
which I write the name of the town is cut out in
letter beds, which are planted with Pyrethrum
aureum. It is difficult to believe that any edu-
cated person could find subject for commenda-
tion in the atrocities I have described, yet so de-
praved, or rather I should say so unenlightened,
are the tastes of many, that a section of the
public is prouder of all this misdirected zeal than
of the many beautiful objects and effects that the
garden still affords. S. \V. F.

A Brier hedge. — Between the flower garden
a hedge of Briers extends that is now an object of
exceeding beauty. By the gate are two large
bushes of Sweet Brier, which on damp evenings
distil their fragrance lavishly. Then come the
Austrian Yellow and Copper, Harrisoni and the
Persian Yellow, while the hedge ends with a large
bush of the white Scotch Brier. All of these
Briers, with the exception of the first named, are
now in flower. The effect of long sprays of the
Copper and Yellow Austrians, studded with reful-
gent orange- scarlet and bright gold single flowers,
hanging down to the ground, while the top of the
hedge is crowned with the double blooms of
Harrisoni and Persian Yellow, is better imagined
than described. In the brilliant sunlight of the
past week the spectacle has been simply gorgeous,
and few that have witnessed it but have been

struck by the vivid colouring. The ground where
the Briers are planted is poor and shallow, but
being left to themselves and untouched by the
pruning-knife, they have formed a very fair hedge,
as well as at this period of the year a very entranc-
ing picture. — S. W. F.

The Week's Work.

HARDY FRUITS.
Strawberries. — Those who mulched early will
this season be well rewarded by the size of fruit
on light soils, the mulch having greatly assisted
in swelling up the fruits. At the time these notes
are penned we have not had any rain to benefit
the roots of these plants, and the watering recom-
mended previously will have done much good.
In watering saturate the plants say once a week
in preference to driblets, my plan being to give
each root well furnished with fruit from two to
three gallons. The mulch, being given as it comes
from the stables, requires a certain amount of
rain to cleanse and bleach the long litter, so that
the watering will cleanse as well as give nourish-
ment if applied freely. Feeding the mid-season
and later plants well will repay, especially if clear
water can be given afterwards, but do not pour
liquid manure or fertilisers of any kind over the
fruit. In all cases when liquid manures are given
it should be at the root, and in the evening or in
chilly weather.

Protecti.no the FRUIT, &c. — This will claim
first attention, especially in old gardens, as the
larger birds are most troublesome. It is not
enough to merely lay a single net over the plants,
as the birds settle on the nets and disfigure most
of the large fruits ; a few supports in the way of
pea stakes or pegs will prevent injury. Those
who have large breadths where netting is out of
the question often employ boys to scare the
birds, but it is necessary to do this early in the
day, quite by sunrise. To preserve the fruits
from the soil I do not think there is anything to
equal clean straw. Short Grass from the mowing
machine is at times used, but it is not nice in
wet weathei : it adheres to the fruit, becomes
mouldy, and does more harm than good. Tan
after the heat is spent and in a clean state is
superior; it also retains the moisture in dry
seasons, and is a splendid preventive of slugs in
wet seasons, an important point, as slugs do much
damage. Of late years vaiious contrivances have
been introduced. Wire guards answer well for
large plants in wet seasons, as the fruits, being
raised, get more light and air, and with only
small quantities of fruit, tiles, slates, or other
flat surfaces are well adapted for placing under
large clusters. Previous to netting or protecting
of any kind, watering should be done and the
surface between the rows made clean. Late
kinds, such as British Queen, Lord Sullield,
Latest of All, Oxonian, and others well repay for
a little extra attention, as they come in when the
glut is past, and I fear this season will be a very
short one owing to drought and heat. It is well
to mulch these more liberally, using shorter mate-
rial and water w ell to settle and cleanse the mulch.
If necessary to get large, late fruits, thin the
trusses of the heavier kinds, as Latest of All and
Oxonian bear very freely. Those who have north
borders for their late crops will be better sup-
plied, as they are cooler in such seasons, and the
advantage of growing young plants is, they are
better able to stand seasons of drought.

Layering: young plants. — The season is at
hand for layering, and I have always found the
earlier young plants can be obtained and got into
the fruiting pots or growing quarters the better ;
and for early runners it is advisable to have a
special plantation of plants not allowed to fruit.
There are various means adopted to root the
plants. Good results are obtained by layering
direct into the fruiting pots, using 5-inch pots for
early forcing ; others layer into 3-inch pots and
pot on when rooted — an excellent plan — as there
is no water-logging in wet seasons and firm potting

— a great necessity — can be ensured. The old
method of layeringinto piecesof cutturf has several
advantages and is admirably adapted for planting,
the roots so soon go into the new turf and are
planted very quickly with less trouble. The turves
should be plunged in the space between the plants
and well watered. To get large quantities of
rooted runners from young plants just cleared of
their fruits it is a good plan to place some rich
soil between every alternate row of plants and peg
the runners in to it. These make good strong fruit-
ing plants for next season, and if the runners are
layered as advised, by leaving every other row
there is room to water and work between the
plants ; but it is necessary to make the runners
firm to obtain strong roots.

Young Strawberry beds. — The value of year-
ling plants is now so well known it is almost use-
less to point out their superiority over older ones.
A few varieties may be excepted, but they are
very limited. Those who require very early
fruits of the best quality would do well to rely
upon young plants raised at this season for plant-
ing early in July, and such plants in favourable
seasons will give a heavy crop in eleven months
from time of planting. For early fruits I have
found none to equal Noble, on a sloping south or
south-west border the fruits are very early and
fine. Royal Sovereign is equally early, of supe-
rior flavour, and doubtless when more plentiful
will supersede Noble, but the latter in poor soils
will thrive where others fail. Latest of All is
very fine grown on young plants for late use.
Ground ju&t cleared of green crops such as
Cabbage may be prepared for the young plants,
digging deeply, giving plenty of manure, and by
doing the work now it will be ready to plant
when the runners are rooted.

Raspberries. — These were much injured last
winter, especially some of the weaker growers,
but the newer varieties, like Superlative, are
more hardy. It is best to reduce the shoots of
these weak growers, so as to get as strong fruit-
ing canes as possible for next season, three to five
at a stool being ample. Suckers are more numer-
ous than usual this season, owing to there being
less top growth to support, and there should be
no time lost in getting rid of the great majority
of these. The strong growers require more room,
as if crowded the fruits are small. The rows be-
tween the plants should be hoed, and the useless
sucker growths at the stools pulled out by hand.
Raspberries require both food and moisture on
light soils, and few crops pay better for liberal
supplies of liquid manure ; the plants being sur-
face rooters, they will take large supplies. The
autumn-planted roots in many cases did not sur-
vive the severe winter, but those which are push-
ing up new growths from the base should get
every encouragement by mulching, keeping the
ground clean and restriction to the strongest
growths, three or even one being ample to get
good canes. Autumn fruiters cut down hard to
produce new growths or fruiting wood should
also be thinned to get fine fruits, giving food as
advised ; they will then fruit well into October
and in quantity, bearing all up the growths if
these are given plenty of room to develop.

Gooseberries. — In many gardens the cater-
pillar at this season plays havoc with the leaves,
and it is impossible to arrest the destruction if
not taken in hand vigorously, the difficulty being
if any insecticide is used which adheres to the
fruit it is not pleasant to use the fruit afterwards,
and when fully ripe they cannot well be cleansed.
I have found nothing to equal hellebore powder
dusted on the trees when damp and the soil under
the trees coated with fresh lime. Syringing with
quassia extract is also excellent in dry seasons,
using hellebore in damp weather. Change of
quarters will also do mucli good, lifting in autumn
with a ball and giving plenty of good soil and
manures. The Gooseberry also suffers in dry
seasons from red spider. A mulch of manure
will do much good and prevent spider getting
ahead, as the mulch retains moisture and assists
in keeping the surface roots cool. Syringing
with water and sulphur mixed will kill the pests,

442

THE GARDEN

[June 22, 1895.

and the sulphur is readily washed from the
berries.

Currants are bearing freely, and may with ad-
vantage be lightened of any useless wood, such as
crowded lateral growth ; this may be spurred
back to within four joints or leaves from the base,
which will give the leading shoots more room and
the fruits will colour better. Bush fruit trees
derive great benefit by removal of useless shoots.
Sucker growth should never be allowed, and
young trees for planting later should be kept in
shape by pruning occasionally, keeping them to
one leg or stem, as the crop is more readily
gathered. G. Wythes.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Cardoons. — The main batch, if sown some time
ago, will now be ready for planting into the
trenches — that is to say, if hardening off has been
attended to. Cardoons require a wider trench
than Celery and quite as rich a root-run. Give
plenty of room between each plant— 2j feet is a
good distance where ground is plentiful ; where
scarce, 2 feet will do. Cardoons must never be
allowed to feel the want of water, a weekly soak-
ing if the weather is dry not being any too much.
When once in vigorous growth liquid manure may
be given once in three weeks. If plenty of space
is allowed between the trenches — say 5 or 6 feet —
sufficient soil will then be had for earthing, and the
ridges may now be used for growing Lettuce and
other quick-maturing crops. The best way is not
to earth up the plants until fully grown, when
hay-bands should be closely wound round the
stems to keep them together and to prevent the
soil from getting into the centres. In severe
weather they must be lifted and protected ; they
then form a useful and generally much appreciated
dish. Those who have not yet sown may do so in
heat in small pots and finally plant the seedlings
into trenches in a sunny, ope position. Small
useful plants may then be secured by November.
The Large Spanish and Paris Market are the best
varieties for general use.

Late Celebv. — Those who grow Celery for a
late supply must now attend to the young plants.
As soon as they will bear handling prick them out
in some sheltered nook in rich soil placed on a
hard ash bottom, the same being surrounded with
bricks turned on edge. A few Yew or Laurel
boughs placed here and there will answer a double
purpose — shading from hot sun and also from
parching winds until well established. Where
very late Celery can be accommodated it often
proves more serviceable than the main crop, espe-
cially should the season turn out wet and rot set
in. The late, being smaller, is likewise harder
and more rot-proof. Standard Bearer and Leicester
Red are two capital sorts for late work and of
good quality.

Sowing late Peas. — It is quite time now in
the majority of gardens to sow Peas for the latest
supply — that is, during September and October.
A good sunny, open position should, if possible,
be given, as mildew often affects these late lots.
Ne Plus Ultra, British Queen, Walker's Perpetual
Bearer, and Sturdy are all good for the purpose,
and will form a succession if sown in equal quan-
tities. Plenty of room between the rows is im-
perative, as, unless abundance of light and sun
i3 admitted, the chances are that failure of the
crop will ensue. Thick sowings are also ruinous,
encouraging mildew and other troubles. When
well up give a heavy mulch of good manure and
plenty of water, as these late, tall-growing, robust
sorts soon rob the soil of its moisture. Sometimes
good pickings may be obtained from sowings
made towards the end of the month of such early
sorts as Chelsea Gem and Selected Early.

Planting winter stuff. — Now that genial
rains have fallen, no time should be lost in getting
out more rows of successional winter vegetables.
We have this week put out Veitch's Model and
Cooling's Matchless Broccoli, the former unsur-
passed for late spring use ; the latter, a valuable
hardy variety, coming into use in March and
Apni. 1 do not approve of planting these sub-

jects between rows of Potatoes, unless the latter
are extra wide apart, as the haulm invariably
smothers and spoils the Broccoli, and even if they
survive they are leggj' and weak, and quite un-
fitted to stand a severe winter. Amongst short-
topped, earlier Potatoes, however, that can be
bent over so as to admit air and light to the
plants, both Broccoli and Kale may be planted.
Get out also both the tall and dwarf forms of
Scotch Kales, also Asparagus and Cottager's
Kale, the former about the most useful of all
greens, it being so extremely hardy and such a
continuous grower, the flavour also approaching
that of Asparagus, as its name implies. Savoys
also, more Walcheren Cauliflower and Cabbages to
heart in in autumn, may be planted where ground
is available. Late Brussels Sprouts which were

Junta us Siebuldi. From a phott graph sent by
Mr. L. Burbank, Santa Rosa, California.

pricked out into beds some time ago may now be
got out into their permanent quarters. Where such
very late Broccoli as Late Queen and Methven's
June are grown, the sooner the plants are put out
the better, giving them firm ground from which
some fairly impoverishing crop has been cleared.
Cauliflowers now turning in should be gone over
daily and some leaves bent down over any forward
heads to retard them, the sun and light soon dis-
colouring them at this season. Cauliflowers may
be kept for ten days or so if wanted for exhibi-
tion by lifting the plants with as much soil as
possible and placing them in a tub of water in a
cool cellar or fruit room, the water just covering
the balls.

Salading. — At this advanced date more care is
requisite in providing a regular supply of green
crisp subjects for the salad bowl. Position is a
great point, and for Mustard and Cress, Radishes,
and Lettuces a cool east or even a north border
answers best. It is a capital plan to cover the
seed beds lightly with some Utter or garden mats
until the seed has germinated. Perhaps the
best method of growing Lettuces from now till the
autumn is by sowing in drills and thinning out
the seedlings to the proper distances. This saves
labour, enables the plants to arrive more quickly
at maturity, and lessens the liability to run
to seed. A good Lettuce for sowing now is
Veitch's Perfect Gem, it being of excellent
quality, and Corn Salad or Lamb's Lettuce is
not so generally grown as it deserves to be.
During November and also in the spring months
when good Lettuce and Endive are sometimes not
over plentiful, Corn Salad comes in most useful
and makes a desirable change. Seed sown now
will produce plants for use in November, and a
sowing a month hence is best for the spring sup-
ply. Drills are best on good rich, deep soil,
allowing plenty of room both between the rows
and the individual plants. Corn Salad needs a
little protection in severe weather, dry litter of
the common Bracken answers the purpose well.

Herb beds. — These should now be thoroughly
cleansed from weeds and well watered if neces-
sary, or many blanks will occur amongst the
more tender transplanted sorts. Where these
were sown in the open beds, thinning out must
not be neglected, as Salsafy, Marjoram, and
similar subjects soon turn yellow and decline if
left too thick. Thyme and Sage planted this
season will be much benefited by a good mulch of
old Mushroom manure or even rough leaf-mould.

J. Crawford.

Trees and Shrubs.

JUGLANS SIEBOLDI.

The remarkable Walnut, whose curious raceme
of Nutsisshown in the accompanying illustration,
is the chief representative of the genus Jug-
lans in Japan. It is abundant in the northern
island of Yezo and is also found in the more
southern divisions of the empire, but is there
confined to mountain districts. There are not,
so far as I am aware, any trees of fruiting size
in this country, although several young ones
are in the arboretum nursery at Kew. Accord-
ing to Professor Sargent, however, it ripens
fruit not only in such favoured States as Cali-
fornia, but also in much colder districts where
even the common Walnut (J. regia) will not
succeed. On the plants at Kew the pinnate
leaves consist of from seven to eleven leaflets,
these being slightly pubescent on both surfaces
and having shallow, irregular teeth on the mar-
gins. Professor Sargent, describing it as seen
in a wild state in Japan, says it is a wide-
branched tree rarely exceeding 50 feet in height,
with pale, furrowed bark. The Nuts, whose
characteristic arrangement is well shown in the
picture, are about 1| inches long, with a
diameter one-third less, the kernel resembling
that of the common Walnut in flavour. Of its
possible value in Great Britain little can be said
as yet, except that it is perfectly hardy. It is
said to be inferior to the Black Walnut
(J. nigra) as an ornamental tree, and the climate
of even the more northerly portions of the
United States is so much better suited to the
deciduous trees and shrubs of Japan, that its
fruiting there can only be taken as evidence of
the probability of a similar success here. Accord-
ing to Dippel, this tree is the same as those
known in gardens as J. macrophylla and
J. ailanthifolia.

J IKE 22 l»9fi.]

THE GARDEN

443

The only other .Tuglans found in Japan in a
truly wild state is J. cordiformis. It is in
cultivation at Kew, and somewhat resembles
J. Sieboldi in foliage. At present the former
is distinguished by the more numerous and some •
what smaller leaflets and by a more marked
pubesccnc3 on the leaf surfaces than occurs on
those of Siebold's Walnut. The Nuts are
flattened, long-pointed and more or less heart-
shaped. W • J. B.

CEDAKS OF LEBANON AT HOME.

A long-felt wish to see this noble tree on
its native hills has at last been gratified, and
our impressions may have some interest for
the many who admire this tree. It may
be as well at once to clear the ground by
saying that the division of this ( ledar into
two species is not one that should stand, as if
there is any difference worth noting it is that
of a mere variety only. Nor does it inhabit
Lebanon only; that is but one station, and, we
believe, a small one. There are more important
habitats in Asia Minor, where this tree is
widely distributed, and there are forests of it
in Algeria, a visit to one of which we are
now concerned with.

It is a pretty long tramp on foot or mule
from any tolerably decent resting-place to
Mount Bahor, but once there the lover of the
Cedar is at once impressed by the many aspects
in life and death of the tree — the death n<>te
being, unhappily, too impressive, owing to tin'
work of Arabs, tiies,lightning, browsinganiinals,
and other enemies. In some parts, indeed,
with white barkless, dead trees, the mountain
looked a tree cemetery. Clearly for ages it
has been no one's business to look after the
forest, and though it is not near any place of
importance where the wood would be of much
use, savage destruction has been the rule
for many years. In Bruce or some other
traveller we read of Africans who had a
horrible way of taking a steak out of a living
animal ; and in this mountain the natives take
the plank out of the living tree, i Iver much
of the forest almost all the tine trees bad been
treated in this way by men who, not caring
to cut the whole tree, cut into its side, and,
taking out large planks, leave it to get on as
best it may. These planks are dressed on the
spot, a fine heap of chips remaining about,
which anyone wanting a fire lights, and as
likely as not burns part of the great stem.
Small wonder if in the face of such doings
many of the burnt trees are dead. No tree
escapes disfigurement. Young and graceful
trees that might soon take the place of the
dead are broken off for sticks, and the second
or third growths are treated in the same
way. Continued mutilation of this kind of
course leads to deformities, so that it is
perhaps not fair to assume that the tree is
here anywhere in a natural state as to its form,
but the result is often beautiful nevertheless.

From a picturesque point of view no tree
effects we have ever seen were better, and it
would be impossible to give any idea of the
variety of form seen in every degree of size,
beginning with scrubby trees on the shaly
sides of the mountain. It is probable that

the cutting of the points of the young trees
repeatedly may have led to the wondrous
variety of form we saw, but in any case it
was very beautiful. Many of the smaller and
medium-sized trees were not of one stem, as
we expect to see in a Cedar, but many-
stemmed and broken even as one rarely sees
a Yew, the main branches of others leaning
to the ground in infinite variety of contortion,
the whole of the trees on the exposed sea-side
being shorn by the north-east wind. The
trees on the flank of the mountain are handier
for the natives to get at and were probably
oftener cut. In any case it is only on the top
and upper slopes of the mountain that the
stately Cedar is seen, sometimes very large
and fine in form with great stems, though
even among these big trees there is more
variety of form than might bo expected.

The best trees were on a sharp slope not so
easy to swing an axe on, and protected by the
crest of the mountain from the sea winds, and
these trees were very beautiful and large, their
plumy crests lovely when seen from ground
above them. The boles of the trees were as
large, some larger than the oldest and finest
trees we have seen in England, but not so
high as some. On the side most exposed t"
sea winds many trees grew on sharp slopes
of broken shale without any visible trace of
soil, though these were not, naturally, among
the finest trees.

This may well suggest to planters that
it would lie well to be not so very particu-
lar about planting this tree on the best
ground, and best prepaied only, as is so often
done with us. For the sake of variety, if
for no other reason, it would be as well
to try groups on such soil as the Scotch
Fir thrives in. But there is more reason
than that of variety for the plan, as it is
pretty certain that very i ich soils lead to quick
and sappy growth and to a shorter life of
the tree. All lovers of the tree who have
the pleasure of planting it should try it in
other ways than the isolated way usual in
pleasure grounds, where the tree has to meet
all the winds without any aid from neigh-
bours while overladen with heavy tree-like
branches, which catch the snow in quantities
enough to break them down. We do not
say trees of this form are not beautiful, but
they are but one form of the beauty this tree
may give : it should often be planted in
groups, and also closer among ordinary trees,
where a noble Evergreen for game or other
reasons is desired ; with other vigorous forest
trees it grows erect, with a taller bole. We
mean here that it should be planted and grow
up with young forest trees.

The glamour of the name of this tree leads
to its price being kept up pretty high, which
does not matter so much if we only plant one
now and then, but in planting in quantity it
is a more serious matter, and as there is
abundance of good seed in the natural woods
of Cedar both in N. Africa and Asia Minor,
it ought t" lie obtainable almost as easily as
any hardy Pine. And we think it better
worth growing in our woods than some of

the Pines we plant of doubtful value, as
the Spruce in many parts of the south of
England — the Spruce being such a poor tim-
ber too. The trees of the Cedar we saw cut
into the heart by the natives were in all cases
clean and sound to the core, the wood pretty
in colour and yielding a grateful odour. We
cannot judge the value of Cedar wood from
its growth in our country, where in over- rich
soil the growth is often too rapid for good,
lasting timber ; but it is of higher value
than that of Scotch, Spruce or Silver as we
grow them. There are the remains of a log
in the Museum at Carthage said to be about
2000 years old, so there may be available evi-
dence of the value of the native-grown Cedar
of Lebanon. Then, again, every year Conifers
are planted that have not the hardiness of the
Cedar of Lebanon on its cold mountain crests,
where the snow is often yards deep in winter,
and 'where it lay deep in many places on the
day we saw the trees — May 3. These condi-
tions are not so diverse from those of our own
country as those of the climate of California,
from whence many popular Conifers come.
On the mountain, too, we saw some of
our natii'o wild flowers among those of the
mountains of Algeria ; but more striking still
is that among the Cedars are many trees of
our English Yew, healthy, but mutilated
even more than the young Cedars, every
branch being cut back repeatedly to supply pro-
bably some parts of the wooden ploughs or tool-
handles. On lower mountains in the region
near our common Hawdhorn was in fresh
bloom on the same day. But besides these
facts we have the evidence of the old trees
in many of our country seats ; in some — as
at Goodwood and Pains Hill — w-here the trees
are more than usually effective from their
number as well as size and stature. So we
think it is time the Cedar was no longer
valued as a pleasure-ground treo only, and
that it should be freely grown here and there
in our woods in groujis, and also occasionally
as a wood by itself.

As to the destruction of the trees on Mount
Babor, it may be hoped it will not always
be a discredit to the forest department of
Algeria, and it should not be a great difficulty
to exclude browsing animals and the ruthless
destroyers of the fine trees, though it is
an outlying situation. The interest of the
tree is great, and the mountain commands a
vast sea of broken landscape reaching into
infinite distance in every direction, so that
even if the timber has little value com-
mercially, this home of the Cedar well de-
serves the care of the State. — Field.

Acanthopanaxricin folium. — In many cata-
logues this is found under the name of Aralia
Maximowiczi, but its true place is in the genus
Aeanthopanax, of which about half a dozen species
are found in China and Japan. It is, according to
Dr. Sargent, the largest araliaceous plant of
Japan, for the tree will sometimes attain a height
of 80 feet, with a tall, straight trunk 4 feet or
5 feet in diameter, covered with very thick, dark,
deeply furrowed bark, and immense limbs that
stand out from the trunk at right angles like
those of an old pasture Oak. In this country it
is, however, of comparatively recent introduction,

444

THE GARDEN.

[June 22, 1895.

but, from the vigorous style of growth, it bids
fair to soon attain a considerable size. As a
young plant is has a decidedly sub-tropical aspect,
the sturdy stem being as straight as a gun barrel,
and freely furnished with large spines on the
upper portion. The leaves, which are borne on
very long, deep-coloured stalks, are palmate, five
to seven-lobed, and of a dark shining green on the
upper surface, but lighter beneath. It is per-
fectly hardy, for though in the winter it has a
decided dead-stick appearance, on the return of
spring the new foliage pushes forth in all its
beauty. It succeeds best in a rather deep soil
that is not parched up at any time. A bed planted
with young, vigorous specimens at a sufficient
distance apart, to allow for the full development
of the handsome leaves, will form a very striking
feature, quite equal to that presented by many
sub-tropical subjects that need a hothouse during
the greater part of the year. — T.

Pernettyas. — In some districts these have
suffered a good deal from the late severe winter,
but where they have escaped they are as usual
flowering freely. Much as we have heard of the
ornamental features of the different Pernettyas
owing to the beauty of their berries during the
winter months, a few words of praise may be
spared them as flowering Bhrubs, for the pure
white wax-like blossoms are borne in great pro-
fusion and present a very pretty appearance,
nestling, as they do, among the small dark green
leaves. Being of a stout texture, these flowers
remain fresh a considerable time, and they are
decidedly useful in a cut state. Though by
carrying out a process of selection great changes
have been effected in the berries, the flowers of
all remain just about the same. — T.

Dimorphentlius mandschuricus. — This
name is generally applied to what is apparently
but a form of the North American Aralia spinosa,
but in any case a vigorous specimen is highly
ornamental by reason of its huge compound
leaves and from its blossoms, which are borne
towards the end of the summer or early in the
autumn. It forms a stout, erect stem, the younger
portion of which is furnished with numerous
spines. The stem will reach a height of 10
feet to 12 feet or more, and at the flowering
season is terminated by a large branching
panicle of whitish blossoms. It is a plant that
pushes up shoots from the base in considerable
numbers, so that an established specimen makes
a large mass or clump, consisting of numerous
stems, which, being each clothed with the very
large compound leaves during the summer, cover
a considerable space, and as autumn approaches
and the stoutest shoots bear aloft their large
panicles of blossoms, it is then a very striking
feature. It is thoroughly hardy and easily in-
creased by root cuttings, as if a specimen is trans-
planted and some of the roots are allowed to re-
main in the soil, young plants will often crop up
the following season. — H. P.

keeping the best only of the previous season's
propagation, so as to have some at least of
larger size if needed.

The species which forms the subject of the
accompanying illustration is, perhaps, the most
useful of any, as it flowers during the winter
months, being easily had in flower to succeed
the Chrysanthemums. Earlier than this it is
scarcely desirable to flower it, although it could
be had in good condition in October if need be.
I have found it to be very useful during
December and January, and in order to flower

heat that is given to the Clematis just suits the
Rose, as it helps to bring on the blooms early.
Nothing could be finer than were these Roses, and
I was told by the grower that he obtained three
crops from these plants every year. — Dorset.

k.empferia kirki.

Stove and Greenhouse.

THE EUPATORIUMS.

This genus is closely allied to that of the
Ageratum, well known as a useful bedding
plant, also to the Hebeclinium, another very
serviceable decorative greenhouse subject.
Those that are usually cultivated under the
generic name of Eupatoriuni comprise but a
few varieties. These are very useful where
flowers in quantity are wanted either in a cut
state or upon the plants during the winter or
early spring months. They are ol specially
good service for large conservatories or green-
houses where it is impossible to grow many of
the hard-wooded plants with that success one
desires to see. Being plants of easy culture
and of rapid growth, it is not a difficult matter
to grow on a stock of young plants every year,

This is one of the many Gingerworts remarkable
for the beauty of their blossoms, which, though
they do not last long, are as a rule produced in
considerable numbers from the one scape, so that
in the case of vigorous examples a display will
it then it is better to stop the shoots during the , often be kept up a couple of months or there-
early part of September. The other two varie- abouts at this season. This Krempferia first
ties— one of which is tall and the other dwarf— flowered at Kew in 1881 under, the name of
to which attention might be drawn are E. odora- Cienkowskia Kirki, and as such a coloured plate
turn and E. riparium, but these flower during ; of. »* *as g'ven in The Garden of November 19
the spring season when many other plants, m ! ^ *ha,Jvyear- J?\nCe- ^at time however, it has
, ,, ^ „ 5 . ,, . . .J j... r„ my,- Deen by some botanical authorities relegated to

bulbs, &c, are in their best condition. The the genUs K^mpferia, though it is still frequently
culture is quite easy and growth too luxuriant it met with as CJenkowskia. 6 It formS) ]ibe1 many
the plants are overpotted or treated with stimu- i other o{ ita clagS) a thick fle8ny rootstock, from
Jants before the flower-trusses are _well ad- | whence are pushed up Plantain-like leaves about
vanced. Two or three stoppings are 'certainly a foot long and thin in texture. The flower-
desirable, so as to form more bushy plants, scape rises to a height of a foot or so, and the

individual blooms are rose-coloured, with a
golden blotch at the base of the lip. In size,
colour, and general appearance they remind
one a good deal of the flowers of Miltonia
vexillaria. It is a native of the Zanzibar
region, and forms a very pretty and useful
subject for the stove. In such a structure it
is of very easy culture, as it passes through
the winter in a dormant state ; then, on the
return of spring, it should be shaken clear
of the old soil and repotted, when if placed
under conditions favourable to growth the
leaves will soon be pushed up and followed
quickly by the flower-spikes. A soil com-
posed of loam, leaf mould, and well-decayed
manure will suit this Kasmpferia perfectly.
As it passes the winter in a dormant state,
it must at that season be kept slightly moist
— in fact, much the same treatment as a
Caladium should be given it.

A second species, K. rotunda, was figured
in The Garden, August IS, 1888. The
flowers of this are developed just as the
leaves begin to push up. They are less
regular in outline than those of K. Kirki,
and the colours are altogether different, the
lower petals being bright violet-purple,
veined at the base with white, and the upper
petals are entirely white. They are also very
agreeably scented. This species, as a rule,
flowers about April, and the foliage is now
decidedly ornamental, being of a dark green
tint marked with grey and purplish on the
under sides. Regarded from a foliage point
of view alone, K. Gilberti has much to re-
commend it. The style of growth is somewhat
after the manner of the smaller Funkias, as it
tlie" middle of ^September from"eMly~in May! , forms a dense tuft of bright green leaves freely
When housed, the ordinary temperature of a , ^rtel with pure white. A large pan of this ape-

, .',, ., ,, J .. . ,r , ,„„„_ :„ ' cies forms a very pretty object for many months,

greenhouse will suit them ; light however, is or neat Uttl/cimen/mayV grown in compara-
necessary, so as to keep the growth as compact ^ , gmaU ^ and they are then extremely use.
as possible. Propagation is best attended to fui for decorating. They are all plants of easy cul-
about March, the cuttings striking freely enough ture) ancj tne two last named species will succeed
in a little warmth. Amateur growers, instead jn a structure which is kept at a rather lower
of attempting to grow the Indian Azaleas, not temperature than that necessary for K. Kirki.

Eupatoriuni Weinmannianum. Engraved for The
Garden from a photograph sent by Miss Gaisfcrd,
Qffington, Worthing.

Out-of-door treatment will answer well up to

always easily managed in such cases, would do
well to try their hands on a few Eupatoriums
instead. E. Weinmannianum is a native of
South America. Grower.

H. P.

Anthurium crystallinum. — Although com-
mon and cheap, this Anthurium is one of the

most beautiful fine-leaved plants in cultivation,

Clematis indivisa and Niphetos Rose.— and if it happened to be a novelty of the present
Recently when at Bashford Nursery I observed | day we should doubtless have it greatly praised,
these growing in the same house with the best j The large heart-shaped leaves are of a deep rich
results. Niphetos Rose was planted out in narrow I velvety green, while the midrib and principal
beds near the front lights and allowed to grow up ' veins are marked out in silvery whiteness clear
two-thirds of the roof. At both ends were and distinct from the rest of the leaf. The young
planted Clematis indivisa, which covers all the leaves are of a pale brownish green, suffused with
space under the centre of the house. It comes violet, which varies greatly according to the age
into bloom early in the year and the bunches of | of the leaf and the point from which it is viewed,
white flowers sell well early in the season. The the violet lustre depending greatly upon the

June 22, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

445

direction of the rays of light. All plants are,
however, not of equal merit in the colouring of
their leaves, some having the silvery bands
broader and more clearly defined than others.
In common with most of its class, this Anthurium
is of ea'y culture, for it delights in a mixture of
rough peat and Sphagnum, to which may be
added a little fibrous loam, at the fancy of the
cultivator. A good amount of sand should be
mixed in the compost. The plant requires a moist
portion of the stove, and as a good deal of its
beauty is lost if the leaves are disfigured in any
way, care should be taken to remove insect pests
without bruising the foliage. — H. P.

A triple Arum. — I do not know if you are
tired of monstrosities among Arums, but I send
another one. It has three perfect spathes with
one spadix only, and they are quite uniform in
size and in arrangement on the single stem.
Last year I sent you one that I thought far more
curious than this, as the flower-stem was jointed
and produced from the joint a perfect albino leaf,
surmounted with a spathe of the ordinary form.
I was then and am still anxious to know if a simi-
lar case has occurred, as I do not remember
having seen a note of such a freak.— J. C. TAL-
LAGE.

GREENHOUSE RHODODENDRONS.

Now that the various Himalayan Rhododendrons
and the numerous hybrids raised therefrom are,
with the exception of R. calophyllum, all past
their flowering season, the members of the Javan
or tube-flowered group, whose period of blooming
is limited to no particular part of the year, are in
many cases flowering freely, that is to fay, in the
intermittent manner common to most of them, for
they are continually pushing forth new shoots,
which when mature are terminated by a tlower bud
that soon expands. Though these Rhododendrons
are usually spoken of as greenhouse varieties, it is
now generally recognised that for a greater part of
the year a temperature above that of an ordinary
greenhouse is essential to their well-doing, but
dining the summer months they do not require
any fire heat. They are greatly benefited by a
liberal use of the syringe, but if the atmosphere
is too stagnant, mildew will sometimes attack the
weaker varieties and cause a good dealot trouble.
There is a great amount of difference in the con-
stitution of the varieties of this class of Rhododen-
drons, one of the most robust being the oldest of
all, Princess Royal, and as a rule the high coloured
forms are weaker in growth than the pink ones. As
their flowering season is limited to no particular
period of the year, it will be fully understood that
when repotting is to be carried out it cannot be done
all at once, as in the cas3cf the Himalayan hybrids,
which all flower at much the samo time, then
make their fresh growth, and do not bloom again
till another year comes round. The Javan
varieties, however, behave in a totally different
fashion, and as it would not do to repot a specimen
just coming into flower, the operation must be left
over till the flowers have dropped. The present,
however, is a very suitable period fjr repotting
those that require it and that are at the same
time free of flowers or advanced buds. A good
compost for this class of plants is fibrous peat,
with a liberal anoint of rough silver sand, and
some nodules of charcoal mixed with the soil.
This charcoal is especially necessary in the case of
large specimens, as it is very essential to keep the
soil sweet and fresh, for the delicate hair like roots
are very sensitive. Owing to this the draining of
the pot? should be very c iref ully done, for in many
cases the plants will stand for years without repot-
ting : hence it is so necessary to have everything
clean and sweet. The soil must, as in the case of
most hard-wooded plints, be pressed down firmly.
It should also be borne in mind that Rhododen-
drons of this class are by no means vigorous root-
ing subjects ; hence care should be taken to guard
against over-potting, as large plants can be grown
in comparatively small pots. It is also a very
good time of the year to propagate these Rhodo-
dendrons by means of cuttings, which are by no
means difficult to root, all that is needed being to

form the cuttings of the half-ripened shcots
finish them at the base with a rather long sloping
cut, and then dibble them into pots prepared for
the purpose. These pots should be well drained
and filled firmly with very sandy peat. Care
should be taken that the soil is well pressed around
the cutting, especially guarding against any
cavity at the baso of it. After being watered they
must be placed in a close propagating case in an
intermediate house temperature, and in this way
they may be struck, potted into small pots, and
established therein before winter. H. P.

THE

VARIEGATED IVY-LEAVED
PELARGONIUMS.

The Ivy-leaved section of the Pelargonium
family has had considerable additions made to
it of recent years, but this has chiefly been in
the direction of greater variety of colour and an
increased number of double forms. For these
we are grateful, as anything that is less void of
close and formal growth than the so-called bed-
ding Pelargoniums must be considered an acquisi-
tion. The variegated section has not, however,
had that same amount of attention bestowed
upon it. The few varieties that are grown do
not, on the whole, appear to receive that atten-
tion they should do, more particularly when
thinking of l'Elegante, which is undoubtedly
the best variety in cultivation, the leaves of
which are neatly margined with clear white,
whilst the flowers also are white. This kind is
well adapted for hanging baskets, and grown
in this way it is very attractive for conservatories
or greenhouses. Another use to which this
pretty Geranium (1 like the old-fashioned name
the best) can be put is for filling up bare spots on
rockwork during the summer. For this pur-
pose it is particularly well suited. No better
place for it could be chosen if it is desired to
make any considerable increase in the stock
this coming autumn. In pots, again, it cannot
be put to a better account than as marginal
edgings to greenhouse and conservatory stages,
or for bracket plants or window boxes. L'Ele-
gante is not of rapid growth by any means,
but its progress is pretty sure and reliable ;
hence it should not be planted too near those
plants of like character which happen to be
stronger growers. As an outside edging to
flower beds it is also rec mmended, being in
many respects better than several other plants
so used, which have to be constantly pinched or
trimmed to keep them within limits. Another
and a much older variety used to be grown
which had an occasional variegation of golden
blotches, that eventually toned down to a pale
green. This is no loss, in my opinion. Note
should, however, be made of Duke of Edin-
burgh, of which the growth is as free as that of
the "green varieties, the foliage being broadly
margined with white ; also of aureum margi-
natum, the variegation of which is pale yellow.
The cultural details are similar to those re-
quired for the green-leaved section, too rich a
soil being in no case advisable. Grower.

Elseocarpus cyaneue.— In selecting plants
for adorning the greenhouse or conservatory there
are many desirable subjects that may be kept in
health, and can be depended upon to flower year
after year with but little trouble. The Ela-o-
carpus in question is one of this class, while the
distinct character of its blossoms is another great
point in its favour. It is a native of Australia,
where it attains the dimensions of a small tree,
but in this country flowers are freely produced
while it is still a bush ; indeed, I have had little
specimens in pots only 6 inches in diameter which
bloomed well. It is, however, as a bush 6 feet
high or more that this Elaeocarpus is seen at its
best, for the numerous twigs being then all laden

with its beautiful blossoms the entire plant forms
a charming sight. The flowers are pure white
and bell-shaped, their most prominent feature
being the delicate manner in which the petals are
fringed, reminding one somewhat of the little
alpine Soldanellas. When a plant is at its best
this lace-like fringe is sure to attract the attention
of all. These blossoms are succeeded by berries,
which acquire a purple hue when ripe and are
then decided! v ornamental ; but as the flowers are
the principal feature of the plant, the fruits are by
some removed as soon as possible after the flowers
fade in order to devote the entire energy of the
plant to the production of blossoms. A glance
at a coloured plate of this Ekvocarpus in The
Garden, September 1, 1883, well shows the beau-
tifully fringed flowers. If the berries are allowed
to ripen they form a ready means of propagating
this El^ocarpus, but as plants obtained in this
way do not flower so freely in a small state as
those obtained from cuttings, this latter method
is usually employed for their increase. Cuttings
are not at all difficult to strike if treated as the
general run of greenhouse plants— that is, formed
of the half-ripened shoots, dibbled firmly into pots
of sandy soil and kept close till rooted. Eita-
blished plants may be kept in health for years
without repotting ; hence it is very necessary when
they are potted to see that good drainage is en-
sured, and the compost used should be such as
will remain in good condition for a long tima.
Not only can specimens be kept in pots or tubs
but when planted out in a prepared bed they will
do well. When in pots they may after flowering
be placed out of doors, as is often done with many
areenhouse plants, but if small they had better
be plunged, in order that the roots may be main-
tained in an even state of m >isture.— H. P.

SHOW PELARGONIUMS.

It was recently stated that the fine large-flowered
show and fancy Pelargoniums are being neglected,
and yet they are among the most useful and attrac-
tivebf greenhouse plants. Some varieties recent y
in flower at the Royal Nurseries, Slough, are really
superb ; they are good growers and very free,
and with proper culture successional in bloominf .
One of the brightest is Turner's Fireball, w'hicli
has rich deep scarlet lower petals and flossy
black top ones, very fine for exhibition. Duke ol
Norfolk is also brilliant in colour, the top petals
dark, the lower petals deep crimson-scarier, and
it has a conspicuous white throat. Prinee
Leopold is very bright and so effective as an ex-
hibition variety, that it invariably finds a place in
a competitive group. Excellent is well named,
as the flowers are of the finest form, the lower
petals light crimson with a deeper veimng and
dark top petals, and also very free ; and Martial,
rich deep crimson with maroon top petals, is also
good. One of the most distinct of the large-
flowering show Pelargoniums is Purpurea, the
lower petals being bright purple, edged with
lilac or shaded with rose, a most attractive deco-
rative plant. In softer tints, Joe, rosy purple
lower and daik purple top petals; Maid ol
Honour, pink, with dark blotch on the upper
petals ; Magnate, very fine ; Mystery, rosy sal-
mon and daik top petals, very pleasing ; Ronald,
and Symmetry, which is well named, m colour
lilac rose, are a selection of high merit.

As the plants go out of bloom at the end of
June or later, according to the time of year at
which they bloom, they should be placed in a cold
frame or in the open air in a somewhat sunny
position to ripen the wood. Water should be
gradually withheld, so that the wood may become
hardened and in a condition to make cuttings.
Soft, green and sappy wood does not root nearly
so well as that which is harder, and if placed
round the sides of pots filled with a sandy com-
post and kept in a cold frame and shaded, so
that the soil does not dry rapidly, the cuttings
soon root. When rooted they can be potted
singly into medium-sized "long toms," using a
compost containing leaf-mould and sand, and the
plants wintered in a greenhouse. R. D.

416

THE GARDEN

[June 22, 1895.

Chrysanthemums.

CULTURAL NOTES.

Now that the plants are all in the pots in which
they are to flower, except perhaps the latest
batch that are to give us the last crop of flower?,
provision must be made for getting them into
their summer quarters without delay. Usually
at potting time they are stood close together in
a sheltered corner until all are potted. By that
time the forwardest will have become nicely
established in the large pots, and will be ready
to undergo the usual routine of summer manage-
ment. Where several hundred plants are cul-
tivated for the production of large blooms and
a large batch for cutting from in addition to a
goodly number for providing late flowers, a
large space must be provided for them during
their summer season. The best site should be
set apart for those plants that are to produce
blooms for exhibition, as plants that are imma-
ture in growth cannot produce the finest
flowers. If the growth of the plants has been
gross during the summer with large leaves and
thick fleshy stems devoid of woody tissues at
the end of September, we know that the require-
ments of the plants have not been all that was
necessary during the growing season. Too
liberal use of manure in the potting soil and
loose potting may have much to do with this
state of things, but an unsuitable position for
growth during the summer may have even more
to do with the unsatisfactory condition plants
are found in at the time stated. A position
sheltered from the south-west and in the full
blaze of the midday sun, and as long as it can
be obtained during other parts of the day, is
the best that can be chosen for the plants.
Here with plenty of space the growth matures
as it proceeds. The best position of all is beside
paths near to the water supply, where abund-
ance of light is assured and the plants standing
on boards, slates, or tiles are convenient for
attention and handy to water. Provision
must be made to secure the tall-growing
varieties against breakage. For those that
grow 10 feet high or more two wires fixed
to stout posts, if the line is a long one,
will be required. To these wir^s the stakes in
the pots should be made fast. Some cultivators
tie the three branches loosely to one stake thrust
into the pot. It is a much better plan, however,
to tie the centre branch of the three to
this stake and make the remaining two fast to
temporary small stakes tied to the wires. In
this way all the shoots or branches are spread
evenly out and given an equal amount of space,
so that the leaves of one shoot do not overlie
those of its neighbour. By this means the
development of the leaves will be perfect and
will not be nearly so liable to attacks of mildew
as they are when huddled together. Where the
plants are of necessity placed in parallel rows in
one block, they must be so arranged that the
shade thrown from one plant does not affect the
next plant. Where possible under such con-
ditions the rows should run east and west and
be at le ist 5 feet apart. The plants should be
restricted rigidly to thenumber of shoots allowed,
which usually is three. A few cultivators confine
many of their plants to one stem only. 1 think,
however, that this is a waste of time. A well-
managed plant will produce three blooms as
good as one. A single-stemmed plant allows no
margin whatever for injury. All side shoots
ought to be removed as fast as they appear. It
is a useless waste of energy to allow these surplus
growths to remain until they are several inches
long and then remove them. The present bright

and warm weather is having its influence upon
well managed plants, which are making rapid and
satisfactory progress. Continue to supply them
with water at the roots as required. Newly-
potted plants do not require the same quantity
as those that have become well established. Any
plants that exhibit a tendency to paleness in
the foliage, like Miss D. Shea does for example,
directly after potting ought to be kept rather
dry at the roots for a tima. Syringe the foliage
twice daily. E. Molynetx.

Recent Chrysanthemums. — Mr. Michael
Barker, the editor of the " American Chrysanthe-
mum Annual," has just edited another work with
the above title. It forms Bulletin No. 91 of the
horticultural division of the Cornell University,
Ithaca, N.Y. There are several illustrations in
black and white, and after giving a short review
of the Chrysanthemum in America, notes on the
cultivation of recent varieties grown at Cornell
last year are supplied with dates when the buds
were taken, and an opinion of their relative value.
Most of the novelties are of American origin.
Other chapters include methods of cultivation,
insect friends and enemies, and the testing of
varieties.

Chrysanthemum Mile. Therese Bey.—
This splendid white Japanese variety raised by
M. Ernest Calvat, of Grenoble, in 1892, and
already well known to our exhibitors and growers,
is now being distributed in Australia. An excel-
lent full sized illustration of it appears in the
Australian Afiricnlturiat for the 1st of May last.
Most of the leading show flowers in that colony
are of European or American origin, but growers
there are anticipating that their own seedlings
will ere long occupy a much more prominent
position. They are stated to be of a more robust
constitution than the imported varieties.

Chrysanthemums in Australia.— Seedlings
are now being raised in Australia. Last year one
of my correspondents spoke very highly of one
that had been raised in Victoria called Pride of
Madford, an incurved Japanese, colour bluish
purple, with a silvery reverse. I notice in the
"American Chrysanthemum Annual" that Mr.
H. J. Carter, of Sydney, refers to it as a beautiful
Melbourne variety. Since then I have received
a report of the Sydney Chrysanthemum show held
in April last. Some colonial raised seedlings of
great promise were staged, and the floral com-
mittee of the Horticultural Society there awarded
the majority of them first class certificates. The
principal raisers appear to be in New South
Wales — Mr. G. H. Kerslake, Mr. J. H. Horton,
Mr. S. B. Levick, and Mr. J. Upton. The names
of the flowers were G. H. Kerslake, a white Japan-
ese, with long drooping petals ; Oceana, an in-
curved Japanese, with broad petals, colour clear
yellow ; Pride of Elhvood, a reflexed Japanese,
with long petals, colour amber-yellow ; Mrs. J. H.
Horton, a Japanese incurved, old gold suffused
with salmon, reverse buff; Minembah, a Japanese,
colour deep yellow, lined reddish brown, reverse
pale yellow ; Samuel Upton, Japanese incurved,
of deep rosy amaranth, with reverse silvery ; Mr.
James Toohey, a Japanese incurved, colour pale
lilac, reverse silvery; and Lady Gormanston, a
seedling raised in Tasmania, but exhibited at
Sydney, colour white, slightly tinged lilac. —
C. H. P.

SLATE AND OTHER ROOFS.
Previous to the development of railways the
roofs of farmhouses, cottages, barns and sheds in
southern and midland England were made of
thatch and tiles — substances which with age
assume hues of indescribable richness and deli-
cacy and of infinite variety, thereby enhancing
thecharm of rural scenery. No one nowdreams of
employing any material except Welsh slate ;
unless, indeed, for outbuildings and the like, he
descends to the greater obscenity of galvanised
iron.

The prettily situati d town of Luton is, for the
most part, of recent growth ; the house walls are
of red brick, and here in Bedfordshire, forty years
ago, it never would have occurred to any builder
to make his roofs otherwise than of tiles or thatch,
steeply pitched. Now there is not a brown or
russet roof to be seen, the angle of the gables has
been greatly enlarged, and the effect of an expanse
of cold, yet shadowless slate, with closely clipped
eaves, is utterly out of harmony with the > urround-
ings. What has taken place at Luton is just what
has happened to hundreds of other English towns,
and, worse still, English villages.

The slate cf Cumberland differs from that of
Wales in being of coarser grain and less finely
laminated. But it is of an exquisite greenish-
grey, with silvery reflections and a glaucous
bloom. It makes a beautiful roof, as many
country houses in the north of England and south
of Scotland testify, especially those built towards
the close of last century. Besides this admirable
material, in some parts of Cumberland and West-
moreland thin plates of limestone were of old the
common roofing material. The porous texture cf
this stone renders it, under a moist atmosphere,
favourable to the growth of Lichen, resulting in a
many-tinted tapestry which is altogether delight-
ful. Even here Welsh slate has begun to displace
the native product. All round for miles, dotted
on the grassy slopes, may be Eeen the grim, grey
garths and hay barns, with stone roofs deeply
stained with olive and russet, and splashed with
golden Lichen. But the harmony is shattered by
spick-and-span railway buildings rcofed with
Webb slates; and even in the villages it is plain
that, the old fashion is falling out of favour, for
all the new dwellings and the meeting-houses are
roofed with the same material.

The close, crystalline texture of these slates
enables them to resist all kindly vegetable pig-
ment. It is true that sometimes near the sea a
salt crust is deposited giving foothold to an orange
Lichen which creeps over the surface with charm-
ing effect; but generally the tone remains un-
changed, and rarely is a roof now put on with
liberal eaves. , , ,

Matters are rather worse in Scotland. Aittsclh.e
and Annandale o ce boasted a kind of roof peculiar
to themselves. Thin rectangular flags of red sand-
stone, measuring 2 feet on the square, were pre-
pared in the quarries of Locharbnggs and Lorn-
cockle, and. laid on diamond-fashion, formed an
effective finish even to the humblest cot, But
these are used no more, the Welsh slates every-
where being now seen. Few people are aware
how much tile roofs were in use in Scotland from
early times, and how greatly the scenery has
suffered from their disuse. Those square border
keeps which are such familiar objects in the Low-
land landscape once had a very different appear-
ance There is preserved in the British Museum
(Cottonian collection, "Titus," c. xii., folio ,0-Si )
a report on the military strength of the Western
Marches by an English officer in 1503-60. Tbis is
illustrated by water colour drawings of the chiei
strongholds and some of the towns in Bumtnes-
shire and Galloway. All the castlesexcept Annan,
and all the houses in the towns, are shown with
steep red roofs - that is, roofs of tile. I he
churches have grev roofs of stone, and the tower
of Annan has a blue roof, apparently meant for

6 It' may seem a small matter to complain of that
in a few years, English villages and Highland
shielings will soon be uniformly sheeted w^tn
changeless mauve slate, and the complaint as has
been admitted, is a futile moan. — I all Mall

Gazette.

Notes from Chester.— The Peonies are in full
splendour, rich reds, pale pinks, whitesand creamy
kinds as delightful in scent as they are varied in
colour. Irises, too, are splendid, as beautiful as
Orchids, with graceful outline wedded to simplicity
of form and colour schemes all their own. i-ach
of these families, however, is so large, that it wou d
be a diihcult matter to send specimens that would
show fairly what they are like grouped in masses

June 22, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

447

as we see them here. From the herbaceous
quarters we fend you two Inulas which are grand
just now, I. glandulos a wit hits tangled frayed fringe
of golden coloured ray florets about its cone of
gold, and I. Oculus Christ.i, not quite so large, its
crown flatter and its fringed gold lace of deeper
orange. Campanula persicifolia alba is splendid
just now. The gay rosy Catchfly (Lychnis viscaria
splendens fl. -pi.) makes a red ridge of well-defined
colour and lasts long. Polemonium Richardsoni
album and Aster alpinus rubra are both beautiful
and valuable acquisitions. In addition we send
some flowering shrubs. The two Brooms are lovely.
Cytisus scoparius pallidus is literally crowded
with its yellow blossoms, and Cytisus trifoliata is
rich and compact, whilst the healthy green of its
foliage tells with marked effect. Potentilla
fruticosa is full of its delicate cup-like blossoms,
and the Allspice (Calycanthus floridus), with its
rich brown-purple flowers, is a conspicuous
occupant of the shrubbery border. We also send a
few blooms of Romneya t'oulteri, the Californian
Poppy, for the sake of pointing out that with us
the Romneya has stood the severity of the winter
out in the open without protection. — Dickson's,
Chester.

Notes of the Week.

Dendrobium moschatum. — I enclose you a
raceme of Dendcobium moschatumto see what you
think about it. — J. F. Wilkinson.

%* A fine raceme of this handsome species. —
Ed.

Strawberries from Burghley.- Mr. Gilbert
sends us some very fine specimens of Strawberry
Scarlet Queen, of which the flavour is excellent ;
also Royal Sovereign, the fruits immense, rather
v atery, and altogether too big for a pretty mouth.
We do not gain much by bringing out such mon-
strous fruits.

The Bermuda Buttercup (Oxalis cernua). — I
enclose a few flowers of the Bermuda Buttercup,
which you may like to Eee. This plant has had
Fome hundred blossoms on it and was very
brilliant, but it closes except in bright sunshine.
It has a sweet smell. — Scotcs.

*„* Large and pretty flowers of a clear yellow
colour. — Ed.

Polygonum capitatum. — Most Polygonums
are such robust growers that they can only be
admitted to the roughest parts of a rock garden, but
this variety is of very neat prostrate habit. The
flowers, which are most freely produced, appear in
globular heads of a pale pink colour about half
an inch in diameter. The oval leaves are alternate
on very short stems, they are green in colour, but
deep red at the margin an.l apsx, and covered with
minute red hairs. — F. W. M.

Chrysanthemum Zawadskyi. — For bold
etVect in the rock garden few plants are more
adapted than this handsome species, especially if
kept on a ledge by itself. A small specimen
planted less than two years ago at Exeter in
Messrs. Veitch's rock garden now covers a space of
nearly a square yard, the whole plant being one
mass of large delicate pink flowers not more than
9 inches or 1U inches from the ground. — F. W. M.

Anfhericum liliastrum major.— All the
Antherieums are beautiful and useful, but the one
under notice, however, is, I think, the best of the
family. It is practically a miniature Lilium
Harrisi. I saw a bed of it the other day in Messrs.
Jefferies and Son's nursery in full bloom, which
was lovely. A finer border plant would be diffi-
cult to find. Although A. liliastrum is a fine old
garden plant, the major var. is in every way much
finer, and one of the best flowers for cutting I
know. — Thos. Arnold.

Mertensia virgioica. — I noticed on page 421
of The Garden for June 15, and also in " Notes
of the Week " in The Garden of June 8, allusion
is made to Mertensia virginica being in fine
flower. Surely this must mean M. sibirica, as 1

believe 1 am correct in stating M. virginica to
be a March and early April blooming plant, mak-
ing a grand show where not cut by early frosts,
and not continuous in flowering like M. s ibirica. I
shall be glad to know if it is not a mistake men-
tioning M. virginica as being in flower at the
present season — that is in June. — M. P.

Hunerocallis flava.— This fine hardy plant
is doing exceedingly well here this year ; I have
never before seen it so fine. One specimen has
over fifty flower-stems, most of which are bearing
eight flowers or buds and are over 3 feet high.
Altogether it is the most perfect specimen of its
kind that I have ever seen, and having so many
flower-stems the number of flowers open at one
time is much larger than usual and makes a dis-
play that would be impos>-ible with a smaller
plant. I counted to-day a hundred flowers open
on the one specimen. — J. C. Tallage.

Carpenterii caLfornica.— The large speci-
men of this flowering shrub shown by Mr. J. T.
Bennett-Poii at the Drill Hall on Tuesday was a
fine example of cultural skill, as it was luxuriant
in vigour and most profusely bloomed, being
literally covered with fine clusters of flowers.
There are a number of choice and beautiful flower-
ing shrubs not quite hardy enough to withstand
our winters well worthy of such treatment as this
Carpenteria ha? received, but the general rule,
unfortunately, is because they cannot quite be
trusted in the open air they are not grown at all.
This plant was one of the features of the meeting,
and waB much admired.

Hedysarum multijugum.— Some time ago
this beautiful Chinese shrub was mentioned in
The Garden as having stood the test of the last
severe winter. It is now a mass of flower on a
rocky bank at Exeter, and its long shoots covered
with crimson-purple flowers look most graceful
and effective. It requires a well-drained soil and
full exposure to the sun — F. W. Meyer, Exeter.

%* This shrub was also floweiing freely at
Kewrec.ntly, where we saw a little bed filled with
it, and a graceful light group it made, the shoots
being slender, the leaves long and narrow, with
tiny leaflets, and the rosy purple flowers disposed
thinly in long racemes. It would be most effec-
tive planted in association with some other choice
shrub that flowered at the same time, some of the
pretty Brooms, for example. — Ed.

Sax.fraga fl^gellaris. — This is a most dis-
tinct and handsome Rockfoil, introduced from
Colorado, where it grows at a very high altitude,
but, according to good authority, it also occurs
on the Caucasus. Messrs. Veitch (Exeter) re-
ceived some plants of it last autumn and it
is now in full bloom. The flower-seems are
hairy and viscid, each stem bearing (3 inches or
4 inches above the ground) three bright yellow
flowers comparatively large in siz3. The foliage
is more like that of a Sempervivum than a Saxi-
frage. The thick, fleshy leaves are green and
smooth, with hairs on the margin only, and form
an incurved rosette not much more than 1 inch in
diameter. Most curious is the way the plant re-
produces itself by thread-like stolons, each ter-
minating in a tiny rosette. — F. W. M.

A few good Spanish Irises. — There are
many varieties in catalogues that it is perplexing
to discover the best. When in the Long Ditton
Nursery recently we noticed large beds of the
following kinds, all of great richness and beauty,
showing to advantage in a mass: Princess Ida
has whitish standards and yellow falls, a pleasing
contrast ; Oberwinaar is of a lovely citron-yellow
shade, peculiarly clear and beautiful ; Louise,
pale blue ; Golden King, intense yellow, very
handsome ; Don Quixote, shades of blue, a charm-
ing Iris; and Donna Maria, also shades of blue.
W*e are pleased to know that Spanish Irises are
grown well in many gardens and nurseries.
They form a delightful and important class of
harely bulbs.

Papaver pilosum. — This little-grown Poppy
is deserving of more favour than is generally
accorded to it. At the present time a patch

6 feet long by 3 feet wide is in flowor and will
remain so for another month. The plants average
a little over 2 feet in height, and being thickly
planted, spread in the morning, a canopy of
orange-buff above the bed, the petals being, how-
ever, of such delicate fashioning, thata few hours'
sunlight sees them fade, to be replaced by fresh
flowers at the next elawn. The individual plants
perfect from 100 to 150 blooms, are quite hardy,
and want little or no attention, growing in the
wild garden as freely as in the bed; but wherever
grown, this Poppy should be planted in masses, as,
on account of the fugitive character of its blooms,
single specimens give but a poor idea of its
effectiveness in colonies.— S. W. F.

Abelia triflora. — One is often asked for the
name of a shrub for covering a wall that is out of
the common lists of wall trees. This pretty North
Inelian shrub, now that it is beautiful in flower,
appeals to one. Out of flower it is not remark-
able, but when covered with clusters of pale pink
flow rs most people would think it a refined and
beautiful shrub. The perfume, too, is sweet, and
that in a wall shrub is to be considered when
planted against a house near windows. Unfortu-
nately, it is not a "stock " plant in nurseries, so
there is always some difficulty in getting it. It is
in full flower, and will be for another week or
more, against the herbaceous ground wall (east
side) at Kew. A coloured plate of it may be
seen in the tenth volume of The Garden.— W. G.,
Kew.

Frost in the middle of June. — For severa
nights we have experienced slight frosts, but the
worst occurred on the morning of June 15. On
high ground well above the river Wye we regis-
tered 2°, which must have been considerably ex-
ceeded in the lower parts of Ross, as all the Po-
tatoes, Kidney Beans, and Vegetable Marrows
were blackened and cut down to the soil. So far
a? I can learn, fruit suffered no damage.— Ross.

On Friday night, the 15th inst., there was

a very sharp frost (7") here in this locality, doing
great damage to growing crops, especially Po-
tatoes; oven those that were earthed and 12
inches high are killed to the ground, while Scarlet
Runners and Kidney Beans are completely ruined.
Trees and shrubs have suffered. The Spruce and
Rhododendrons in new growth were a beautiful
green, but now they are the same as they were after
the winter, and all the young growth is killed.
Laurels and Beech are similar. It is quise thj
exception to have frost here so late in the year ;
they often have it in the dales when we see no
signs on the hills.— C. Reeves, Two Dales, Mat-
tock.

The great white Campanula.— There are
several beautiful white Bellflowers, but the most
lovely is without question that which is burdened
with the cumbrous name Campanula persicifolia
grandiflora alba. I should have no hesitation in
naming it a9 the finest white hardy border flower
we have in gardens. It is far and away superior
to what is simply called C. persicifolia alba. Its
flowers are not only larger, have longer and more
pointed corolla lobes, but while the former is a
cold white, the best sort has a suspicion of purple,
which gives a soft whiteness to the flowers. On
light soils it is very hardy, and though never one
of the most robust growers, it is certain to
appear in due season and give weeks of abundant
blossom. I do not know another flower that com-
bines so much beauty of form in its flower and
elegance in growth with such purity of petal. The
fine masses of it that for some time past have made
a border at Kew (by the Cambridge Cottage wall)
a great attraction, to even the most indifferent of
the visitors, show well what a grand border
flower it is. The chief point in obtaining it is to
observe the name grandiflora alba and see that you
get the plant.— W. G., Kew.

Haplocirpha Li3ichtlini. — This South
African perennial composite (lately introduced by
the well-known M. Max Leichtlin, of Baden-
Baden) is now blooming abundantly in Messrs.
Veitch's nurseries at Exeter. The plant has a
peculiar Gazania-like appearance and (with the

448

THE GARDEN

[Ji-ne 22 189.").

exception of the colour) somewhat resembles Ger-
bera Jamesoni, but is more sturdy. The leaves
are cauline, arranged in a rosette lying almost flat
on the ground, individually G inches to 8 inches
long, deeply lobed, about 2§ inches wide, but very
narrow at the base. The upper side of the leaves
is deep green, but the underside is covered with
a thick woolly coating to such an extent as to
appear completely white. The composite yellow
flowers are borno on stems S inches long, each
Hower-head measuring 2£ inches in diameter.
The outer or ray florets are of a bright golden
yellow, while the disc florets are of an orange
colour. The involucral bracts are of a brownish
tint and covered with pubescence. This woolly
coating extends all the way down the stem, but
does not entirely hide the brown ribs of the latter.
The plants growing at Exeter are doing well in a
sunny position in stony soil and are very striking
in appearance. If it proves sufficiently hardy to
stand the winter without protection, it will be
a most desirable acquisition for the rook garden.
-F. W. M.

Herbaceous Pseonies at Long Ditton.— A

few days ago in the nurseries of Messrs. Barr and
Son, Long Ditton, the herbaceous Peonies were
remarkably fine, though the fierce sunlight has
spoiled the blooms to a great extent. One sees in
such a collection as this how greatly the Paony
has been improved upon, the newer varieties hav-
ing very large yet not coarse flowers, full, sweetly
scented and delicately coloured. It is impossible
to note all the good kinds in flower, but we selected
the following as specially worth mention. Of the
double varieties the finest were Pi incess Clothilde,
white, with large flesh coloured guard petals, pass-
ing to white and scented like a Rose ; Eugene
Verdier, white and bush, a lovely kind ; Agnes
Barr, yellow centre when the bloom first opens,
but passing to white, and set off by large rosy
coloured guard petals ; Auguste Milleiz, white
and rose ; Solfaterre, opening yellow, but passing
to white ; Countess of Clancarty, white, very full ;
Sir Henry Irving, double rose, with deeper coloured
buds, very free and rather late; Mme. Furtado,
rose ; Mme. Defatry, white ; Louis van Houtte,
a splendid crimson ; Prince Prosper, deep crimson,
with golden stamens ; Lord Salisbury, very free,
also of an intense crimson shade ; Leoni, white,
with a few stripes of crimson-red on some cf the
petals ; Mme. Loise Mere, late, very free, white,
a dense compact flower ; and the very late Nimrod,
a deep rose flower. Of the singles, most charming
were Venus, white and rose ; The Biide, white ;
and Queen of May, rosy pink. These beautiful
varieties last longer than many suppose, as testified
bytheplants in thisnursery. We also noticed many
promising seedlings, especially a single white,
which we think better than those already in cul-
tivation. The P^ony is a splendid June flower for
massive growth, freedom and fulness of bloom,
some varieties bearing flowers like a Viscountess
Folkestone Rose for delicate shadeand loose, grace-
ful form.

Notes from New Zealand. — Mr. A. Dawson,
of Hogarth House, Chiswick, sends us a letter
lately received from New Zealand, from which the
following notes will be of interest to many : "The
last lot of Raspberries were almost a failure, but
the first lot you sent have multiplied exceedingly,
and will require vigorous treatment to prevent
them becoming a fearful plague. They spread
worse than Blackberries, and that is saying some-
thing. The whole space is a dense mass of suckers,
and they almost killed the fruit-bearing canes. I
shall cultivate them like hedges and wide enough
apart to keep a horse cultivator at work. I am
making a plantation of Blackberries in the same
manner, as I have a splendid standard sort, grow-
ing canes nearly 6 ft. high, which I prune back to
about 3 ft. G in. or 4 feet, and a spike loaded with
berries is a sight. I should think that each cane
averages nearly 2 quarts of berries. So it is a crop
worth growing, the market price being about 2Jd.
to 3d. per quart. I have got a good lot of Tomato
seed from this year's plants especially cured by
drying up the apple and separating the seed,
which I send by this mail. The Asparagus is

growing well. Some of it I have planted in its final
position at once, whilst I have also made a nursery
bed to see which doc the best. I do not under-
stand why the Cucumber seed should do so badly
with you. I planted some of the same seed, and
I have been getting lots of Cucumbers 24 inches
long. I suppose they do not like going back to
the colder climate. I took no special care with
them, only just dibbling the seed in the ground
here and there and they grow merrily. The fruit
grows very rapidly and is extremely tender, so
much so, that if you take up one by the end it
snaps in two directly. The Japanese Plums are
the thing to grow here. I have seen Ogon and
Satsuma as large as Apples. Most of the varie-
ties are sure and heavy croppers, so much so that
heavy thinning is always necessary. You may
see cpjite a crop on a two-year-old tree. The
Botan ought, to do well with you. My outdoor
Vines are all doing splendidly, each Vine of one
stem about 8 feet long trained about 1 foot
above the ground bearing fifty bunches — of course,
far too many, but we cut off the extra bunches
when the berries are the size of Peas and turn them
into jam, which could not be distinguished from
Gooseberry jam in flavour.

Public Gardens.

A present to Durham. — Viscount Boyne
has presented the inhabitants of Wellington,
Durham, with 18 acres of land, sloping towards
the river Wear, for the purposes of a public park.

Metropolitan Gardens Association. — At

the monthly meeting of the Metropolitan Public
Gardens Association, Lancaster Gate, the Earl of
Meath presiding, fourteen new members were
elected, and a communication was read from the
Cty Parochial Foundation stating that the
trovernors were willing to render assistance to the
extent of £1U00 to certain schemes of the associa-
tion of which the}- might approve, for the provi-
sion of smaller open spaces. It was announced
that the association had completed and opened
St. Peter's Churchyard, Walworth, on the 23rd
ult., and Woolwich Churchyard on the 31st ult.
It was stated that the completion and formal
opening of the riverside ground at Battersea
would have to be deferred for some months, pend-
ing the formation of a new road ; meanwhile the
public were able to use the ground in its un-
finished condition. It was hoped that the laying
out of the disused burial-ground in Long Lane
would be shortly begun. It was agreed to take
steps to acquire a similar ground in Woolwich,
and to grant applications for seats for Chiswick,
East Ham, and Canning Town. The chairman
mentioned that the Museums and Gymnasiums
Amendment Bill had passed the second reading
in the House of Lords, and that the London
County Council had invited the association to the
public opening of the Bethnal Green Poor's Land,
a piece of ground which had been saved from the
builders some years ago by the joint efforts of the
association and a local committee.

four months, which were all dry ones, falls short
of the average by as much as 4 inches, or about
double the amount usually deposited in any one
of these months. No measurable cjuantity of
rain water has come through the light soil perco-
lation gauge for forty-fix days, and none at all
since the middle of May. During the past fort-
night the air has been unusually dry, the average
difference between the readings of the dry and
wet bulb thermometers at three o'clock in the
afternoon being 13°. During the same fortnight
last year the mean difference was only 5".—
E. M., Berkhamsted.

A horticultural impostor. — There is a man
going about the country who is pleading poverty,
said to be brought about through ill health. He
professes to bean expert propagator, having been
in the employment of Messrs. Henderson, Pine-
apple Nurseries, and having raised Allamanda
Hendersoni, Pimelea amabilis, and many other
good things. He came to me with letters cf
reference, &c. I helped him by giving him suffi-
cient money to procure a bed and refreshments
for the evening, also recommended him to a friend
who found him employment ; but of this he soon
became tired and retired to the nearest public-
house, where he soon spent his last sixpence.
Going back to my friend with fair promises, ho
was once more put to work, but, alas, this soon
proved too much for him, and he once again found
his way to the public-house. This time he was
very abusive to my friend. He then came back
to me, and not knowing what had happened or
that he had been employed, I further assisted him.
He then borrowed my "Garden Annual,'' profess-
ing that he wanted to find the address of a rela-
tive or friend. I have not seen the man or my
"Garden Annual" since. My friend tells me
that while he was with him he received a P.O.
for a considerable amount. He is about 5 feet in
height, sixty-five years of age, and has sandy
whiskers. Such an impostor should be punished. —
Thomas Arnold, Cirencester House Gardens.

The weather in West Herts.— There have
been no particularly warm or cold days during
the past week, but all the nights have been cold
for the time of year, and on those preceding the
13th and 15th 2° and 4° of frost were respectively
indicated by the thermometer exposed on the
lawn. No damage was done by these frosts
in my garden, but on Berkhamsted Common a
good deal of the young Bracken has been killed.
The temperature of the ground at 2 feet deep
now stands at G2°, and at 1 foot deep at 65°. At
the latter depth the reading is 4° above the June
average and 5° warmer than at the same date last
year. A little rain fell during the night of the
ISth, but only sufficient to lay the dust. The
drought still holds ; in fact, since the middle of
Ma}', or for five weeks, there has been no rain
worth mentioning. The total rainfall of the last

Obituary.

Death of Mr. B. C. Kingston.— Many will
hear with regret of the death of the well-known
gardener and estate manager of Brantingham
Thorpe, who, after a short illness of only a few
hours, died on Thursday, June 6, at the age of 77.
He was a foreman at Chiswick for some years, and
in the year 1841 took charge of the gardens at
Brantingham Thorpe, where in a very few years
he became well known as a most successful ex-
hibitor.

Flies and beetles (A. S. A., Marple Bruhjt).
— The two flies you sent are specimens of
Leptis scolopaca, a very common insect. The
beetle is Telephorus fuscus, commonly known as
sailors, also a very common insect. Neither the
fly nor the beetle will do any harm in gardens.
-G. S.

Royal Horticultural Society. — The next
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society will
be held in the Drill Hall, James Street, West-
minster, on Tuesday, June 25, when special prizes
will be offered for hardy herbaceous flowers.
Professor Henslow will give a conversational lec-
ture on some of the most interesting plants in the
day's exhibition.

Names of plan t8. — E. S. — 1 , E obinia Peeudacacia;
2, Anthericum liliastrum; 3, Clematis panieulata.

Camptone. — Fuchsia fulgcens. E. F. T. — 1,

Lilium Martagcn ; 2, Spiram filipendula ; 3, Hemero-
eallis flava; 4, Centauvea montana; 5, Iris grarriinea

latifolia; G, Allium Moly. C. h. if.— 1. Saxifrage

trilurcata ; 2, Heliantkemum vulgare var. ; 3. Dianthus

plumarius; 4, Aster alpinus. G. G. C. — The shoot

sent looks like that of Viburnum Opulus, the wild torni

of thegaid(n Snowball Tree, aDd a pretty flowering

' and berry -beaiing Fhiub that grows well in wet places.

THE GARDEN

449

No. 1232. SATURDAY, June 29, 1895. Vol. XLVII,

" This la an Art
Which does mend Nature ; change It rather ; but

The Ast itself is N»tir£."— Ehaktspmrt.

Orchids.

NOTES ON CATTLEYAS.

Theke is not a month in the year in which the
flowers of this most important and beautiful
genus may not be enjoyed, the labiata section
alone keeping up a constant succession of their
gorgeous blossoms from January to December.
Besides these the guttatum and bicolor types
make a pleasing change, and perhaps in some
cases these are even more looked forward to
than the former groups. The great majority of
Cattleyas are among the easiest of Orchids to
cultivate provided healthy and well-established
plants are procured in the first place, but if
they once get into a really bad condition there
are few more difficult to bring round. This
does not apply to newly-imported plants, no
matter what their condition, as they are estab-
lished with greater ease than some other genera,
but wholly to ill-cultivated specimens in our
Orchid houses. The pseudo-bulbs and leaves
of the former are only shrivelled from want of
heat and moisture, in the presence of which the
latent buds at the bases will soon push strongly
into growth, and in a few seasons the plants are
as strong aud healthy as ever. The latter, on
the other hand, through years of ill-considered
treatment have fallen into a thoroughly de-
bilitated state, and from this they seldom recover.
Although several of the species require more
heat than the rest, this can usually be arranged
by a little care in arrangement in one house ;
still where more heat is at command it is as well
to remove thereto at least C. Dowiana, its variety
aurea and C. superba, as these of all others de-
light in ample heat. The Cattleya house
should be fairly lofty, well ventilated and light,
the best aspect being a house running due
north and south. The minimum winter tem-
perature must be as near 55' as possible, rising
to 60Q by day with fire heat. In summer TO5 is
ample in the absence of sun, but when bright
the temperature will of course rule much higher.
A close or stuffy atmosphere must always be
guarded against by judicious ventilation, as
nothing so tends to the propagation of insects,
the growth under these conditions being also un-
satisfactory. One of the most distinct species
now flowering is

C. Aclandi.e, a very beautiful and somewhat
variable kind, introduced in 1839 from Brazil. If
proper care is taken to keep the plants moist, this
Cattleya is most satisfactory on fairly large blocks,
and these must be suspended to get the full bene-
fit of light, and air. In winter the utmost care is
needed, as in the somewhat dry atmosphere pre-
vailing at this time the blocks soon part with the
moisture, and a watch must he kept or the small
pseudo-bulbs shrivel and lose their energy. It
grows about 6 inches high, and the pseudo-bulbs
each bear two leaves. The flowers frequently
occur in pairs, and are about 4 inches across in the
best forms. The colour of the sepals and petals is
usually of a brownish green, beautifully spotted
and streaked with purple and yellow. The lip is
magenta veined with purple, spreading in front,
but narrowed at the base. If grownin potsorbaskets
only a very little compost must be allowed and
the plants disturbed as little as possible.

C. gigas is a noble species bearing very large,
richly-coloured flowers. The pseudo-bulbs are
short in comparison with the leaf, and it flowers
upon the current year's growth. All of these

species require careful autumn treatment to avoid
exciting them into growth before the winter, as
unless this is done no flowers will be produced.
It thrives well in suspended baskets and may be
grown in the ordinary peat and Sphagnum mix-
ture, this not being used in too great bulk. It is
a native of New Grenada and has several varieties,
the best forms usually flowering somewhat later
than the type.

C. Harrisoniana is a Brazilian species of con-
siderable beauty, and very free-flowering. It is
very erratic in its season of blooming and some-
times produces two flowering growths in a year.
It grows about 18 inches high and produces the
racemes from the top of the stems. The typical
flower is rosy pink in ground colour, with a yellow
stain on the lip. It has several varieties, in-
cluding maculata, Candida and violacea, the
names of each being descriptive of the colour.
The usual treatment as to temperature and
compost suits this species, but it is well in
all cases where possible to keep the plants en-
tirely at rest during the winter. If growths push
late in the season the plants should be allowed a
little extra warmth in order to get them finished
up without delay. C. Harrisoniana is an old
species, having been introduced as far back as
183G.

C. Mossi.E is so well known and appreciated
that any description is quite superfluous. It is,
moreover, extremely variable, hardly two plants
being exactly alike in all particulars. This, too,
is sometimes late in finishing its growth, and is
better for a full temperature during late summer
and early autumn. It may be grown in pots or
baskets either suspended or on the stage, and
will never fail to give a good account of itself
at flowering time. It was introduced in 1836
from Guayra and named in honour of a Mrs. Moss,
of Liverpool. Another beautiful species of the
labiata section is

C. Warneri, which is a native of Brazil, intro-
duced in or about 1859. This has large and
richly-marked flowers, bright rose in ground
colour, with a remarkably fine lip. The culture
of this plant is not quite so easy as that of some
others, but if attended to and kept as near as pos-
sible to its natural season of growth and rest, it
will usually be satisfactory. This species ought
never to be repotted until after it has flowered, as
the roots that are then emitted from the base of
the pseudo-bulbs re-establish the plants at once.

H. R.

WATERING ORCHIDS.
There is no more important operation connected
with Orchid growing than watering, and none
oftener mismanaged. To entrust this to a care-
less or thoughtless assistant would mean the posi-
tive ruin of the healthiest collection, and even the
most experienced practitioner needs all his wits
about him if the work is to be done with despatch.
In watering a mixed house of Orchids this is es-
pecially the case, even when all are in full growth,
allowance being always necessary for the condi-
tion of the compost, the position and comparative
vigour of the plants. I never feel absolutely at
home watering any plants that may have been
purchased in pots until I have myself repotted
them, for although one can form a fairly correct
idea as to condition by the appearance of the
compost and roots and the growth of the Sphag-
num, it is not always to be relied on. Many
nurserymen are, unfortunately, in the habit of
repotting all plants sent out, or at any rate sur-
face-dressing them, for the sake of appearance,
whether they require it or not, and inexperienced
cultivators are occasionally misled by the look of
the plants. They commence to water just as if
they were well established in the pots, only to
find after a time that it has not only been labour
in vain, but positively harmful to the plants, the
damaged ends of the roots having decayed
through over-abundant moisture. An oft-repeated
question is, How often should I water such a
plant? indicating perhaps a Dendrobium or an
Odontoglossum. There could not well be a more
absurd one, or one more difficult to answer.

Even supposing two species are in full growth,
one may require syringing overhead, to another it
may be injurious. The former will not need
watering nearly as often as the latter. One may
be suspended from the roof in a sunny position,
the other standing in a shady, moist corner
of the house. Again, the size of the pots, the
thickness and quality of the rooting medium,
the nature of the roots, and the length of
time they have been potted must be studied
and many more by the operator with the
watering-can as he passes along. This seems a
formidable array, but it is really not so when a
little experience has been gained, but above
all things I would warn amateur cultivators
not to get into a careless way of watering.
The plants may not appear to suffer ; in fact,
many may perhaps Beem to be doing well,
but a time of reckoning will come, and this
probably when it is too late to arrest the back-
ward tendency of the plants. Orchids differ in
this respect from any other plants. One may have
a houseful dry for a week even at this time of
year and possibly only a few would show any ill-
effects. Leave a house of ordinary greenhouse or
stove plants for the same time, and most of them
would be hanging over the pots dead or dying.
Yet the mischief is done to the Orchids none the
less, and it will show in time. It is just the same
with overwatering. At potting time the decayed
roots will be found ; the effects of this will be seen
by the subsequent weakly growth, and all for the
want of a little intelligent reasoning or fore-
thought. It is not within the scope of this note
to quote the varying kinds or to give precise
directions of any sort, more good being done by
mentioning a few generalities or axioms to be
observed. The atmospheric conditions outside
will be noticed by the cultivator before he com-
mences damping or watering. If the day is likely
to prove dull or wet, or if the house for any reason
is not quite up to the proper temperature, he will
use no more water than is absolutely necessary,
and will take great care that none is allowed near
tender young growths or to collect in the axils
of the leaves. But, on the other hand, should the
air be clear and the sun bright, he will take care
that the moisture applied to the roots and the
atmosphere is adequate for the demands to be
made on it bv the need of the plants, and to re-
plenish that' wasted by drying winds and the
sun's action. On such mornings an early start
with the moisture is quite as necessary as with
the ventilation, and for somewhat similar reasons.
Many of the terrestrial kinds will be found to re-
quire proportionately more water at the roots than
the epiphytal species, as they do not possess in a
like degree the power of drawing their supplies
from the atmosphere. This is an interesting
faculty in Orchids, by the way, and will, I think,
have to be considered more by growers than is at
present the case. Besides what may be termed
comprehensivedetails in connection with watering,
there will always be individual circumstances to
alter special cases, and each grower has to a cer-
tain extent to shape a course for himself. He may
read the remarks of others and follow instructions
given, but until he begins to reason for himself
and attain a habit of close observation no real
progress will be made. R-

HOW TO POPULARISE ORCHID
GROWING.*

As in everything else, I take it the first thing
is observation ; use your eyes properly, and
you will soon see whether a plant looks ill or
well, and this in Orchids is especially the case.
A few days will often show you if a new plant
is happy in its strange home. On the other
hand, Orchids generally are the most long-
suffering plants, and will take years before they
actually die from ill-usage, so that there is time
for a beginner to learn, and to experiment in all
kinds of treatment. We cannot, I think, hope

* Paper read by Mr. E. H. Woodall, F.R.H.S., be-
fore the Royal Horticultural Society, October 9, 1894.

450

THE GARDEN.

[June 29, 1895.

to popularise Orchid growing until a fair idea year's trial I was so much disappointed at their

of their modest needs is more common and
widespread than it has been hitherto. This is,
I think, the first point to be insisted on. The
next and still more important point is to show
that it is not necessary to have all manner of
Orchid houses before a man embarks in Orchid
growing; but, on the contrary, that a single
house and a cold frame are all that are abso-
lutely necessary for anyone who wishes to add a
grace to the ordinary run of greenhouse plants.
I must confess that it would be a great boon to
the struggling amateur if the great nurserymen
and importers could see their way to telling us
briefly, when announcing an importation of new
Orchids, whether these plants have been torn
from tree-tops or whether they come from the
crannies in the rocks ; whether they come from
the breezy hill-tops or from the steaming valleys ;
and it would indeed be satisfactory to know if
they came from a dry or a wet climate, though,
broadly speaking, of course we expect Orchids
to have come from a damp climate. We all
should benefit greatly by such knowledge, be-
cause when a man finds his plants thriving he is
much more likely to buy more and increase his
collection than the man whose ignorance has
made him half kill the plants under his care.
An evil that would, I hope, be prevented, or at
least greatly lessened, by proper information
is the waste — I could almost say "wicked
waste " — caused by tearing away these lovely
creations from their native wilds, and perhaps
entirely destroying them where they once grew
so abundantly, only to kill them in a foreign
land; whereas, with proper knowledge and
cultivation, it will be possible to say they are
only transplanted, and not in any sense de-
stroyed, so as not to rob the world of any of its
bright jewels. The next condition, then, of
popularising Orchids is to show they can be
grown both easily and successfully. We all
know that nothing succeeds like success, and if
anyone can show how amateurs with small
means, and possibly cramped positions, may
yet enjoy a goodly harvest of beauty all the
year round from their Orchids, I think it will
not be long before fresh admirers will be
tempted to try their hands at Orchid growing.
The cultivation of cool Orchids is so well under-
stood by all the large growers now-a-days, that
it is a common sight to many of us to see these
plants luxuriating by the thousand in long
houses where nothing else is grown. This, un°
fortunately, inclines us to think they can only
be grown well in this way ; and what I want
to-day to impress upon you is, that an amateur
who has perhaps only one greenhouse and a
frame may succeed in growing these cool— or,
as I would rather prefer to call them to-day,
"equatorial"— Orchids as well as those who
have fine ranges of houses and all appliances at
hand. I have too often heard it stated by suc-
cessful Orchid growers that it is impossible to
grow Orchids in an ordinary greenhouse ; that
it will be too hot and dry in summer or too cold
m winter, and so on. Now I do not wish to
contradict this statement exactly, because it is
very nearly true ; but yet I think I can suggest
a plan— a very simple plan— by which cool
Orchids may be grown by those who may have
only one ordinary greenhouse where everyday
flowers thrive. It will, of course, entail some
care and some little arrangement', but I think
it can be done very successfully, and great en-
joyment reaped after a certain time.

About eight years ago, seized with the desire
of growing cool Orchids, I bought a few dozen
imported pieces and duly potted them with
peat and Sphagnum and placed them in a rather
close and stuffy fernery facing north. After a

want of progress, and the absence of vigorous
growth, or any sign of flower, that I felt some-
thing must be done or my plants would dwindle
to nothing ; so after much cogitation and read-
ing of any book I could get hold of which told
me of the countries where these plants came
from, I excavated a space under a north wall to
a depth of 18 inches, and bricked and cemented
the bottom arid sides, so that it became water-
tight. Over this I placed a three-light frame,
facing also to the north, and then placed my poor
invalid Orchids on inverted pots standing in the
water covering the bottom. This was in the
end of June, when the nights were just getting
mild and genial in the north of England, where
the garden is situated. Before I go further I
think I should explain what made me try this,
as I had heard, of course, of Orchids being placed
in cold frames during the summer ; and yet I
never found anyone who Beemed very successful
in consequence of so doing. Those Orchids we
call cool Orchids grow at high elevations on
mountains under the Equator, where there is
neither any summer nor any winter season such
as we have in northern latitudes ; consequently
they neither have summer heat nor winter cold,
and in the close, damp woods where many of
them thrive the atmosphere is always moist.
The light is constant all the year round, there
are no short, dark days and no fierce, drying
sunshine or winds to blast them ; yet the nights
there are always cool, and the intensity of the
light such aud so constant, that the shade is
tempered to a degree we have little idea of. It
seemed to me probable, then, that if I could
manage to reproduce their natural condition of
moisture, air, and light sufficiently perfectly in
summer they might endure our dark winter
days without much loss of strength. With this
idea, then, I put my Orchids into this cold
frame facing north, and with an inch or two
of water covering the bottom. On every still,
mild night the lights were entirely drawn off,
so that the plants should get all the dew and
cool night air and every drop of rain that fell.
On windy, dry nights the frame was closed.
During the day it was aired but slightly and
shaded rather heavily to prevent the sun rais-
ing the temperature much ; but whenever it
rained the lights were always drawn off en-
tirely. By this means the plants in a wet
summer never required any watering beyond
what they received as dew and rain ; they were
cool and moist both by day and night, and yet
had abundance of air, unless a high and drying
wind prevailed ; and I watched the result of
my little experiment with much interest. After
the first shock had passed, caused by the change
from the fernery to a cold frame with the lights
off at night, I saw a steady improvement set
in : the young growths took new life ; the old
pseudo-bulbs became plump ; fresh roots ap-
peared everywhere amid the green and rampant
Sphagnum, which found itself once more as if
on its native heath ; and by the end of Septem-
ber, when I took my plants again indoors, they
looked as much better for the tonic open-air
treatment they had enjoyed as any young
party of children ever did fresh from a trip
from the seaside.

Pleased as I was at the unexpectedly great
success of the frame treatment, I did not put
them again in the fernery facing north for the
winter, but boldly placed them in a cold plant
house where Roses and Azaleas thrive, and the
useful and ornamental Chrysanthemum blooms
in autumn, as I was so satisfied that plenty of
fresh air aud light had much to do with their
health. I gave them an eastern aspect cloze to
the glass and with a saucer of water beneath

each invc rttd pot, so that there should be no
lack of air-moisture, and no need to deprive
other plants of their accustomed ventilation.
Here they continued to thrive until really severe
weather rather checked some of them, but with
the first return of spring all went well, till I had
to devise canvas screens and shading to keep off
the March sun and March east winds. By this
means I was able to keep them in good health
till the joyful time came round for turning
them out again into their summer quarters.
This second summer they grew away at once
with increased vigour, and by the time the first
chill of autumn came in September I was able
to show fine spikes of bloom pushing up from
really fine, strong, healthy plants. I will not
weary you with more details as to potting, <fcc,
but merely say that from that day in 1885,
when I first put out these Orchids, till the ex-
traordinarily hot and dry year of 1893 I never
had a check to my success. In that exception-
ally hot and dry year of 1893, when no rain
fell for weeks together, and nights were as hot
and as dry as the days, these Orchids did not
do nearly so well as usual. A few, indeed,
really suffered, showing, I think, how inferior
a watering-can is to the gracious rain and dew
of heaven, which are life and strength to all
alpine Orchids, and a sure means of recovery to
plants that have exhausted themselves by
flowering. Each year I have tried some fresh .
species of On-hid in this frame, and generally
have found it succeed. 1 must not forget to
say that the cold plant house treatment in
winter is quite as satisfactory as I could desire
till March suns are blazing on the eastern
glass. A north aspect with reed blinds would
no doubt then be preferable, but I wish to
show it is not necessary to have special houses
and special aspects for these equatorial Or-
chids.

When I first began growing Orchids in this
way I only put out into the cold frame Odonto-
glossum crispum, O. Pescatorei, 0. gloriosum,
O. hebraicum, O. triumphans, O. Rossi majus,
O. maculatum and such intermediate forms as
I possessed. I now place in the frame such as
Epidendrum vitellinum, Odontoglossum grande,
Ada aurantiaca, Trichosma suavis, Cochlioda
Noetzliana, all of which enjoy their summer
outing enormously, and will winter in a cold
house. Oncidiums I find the most intractable ;
they enjoy the plant-house winter quarters,
but do not thrive with this cold frame and open
air treatment. They need, I think, more sun
and air by day and a warmer night temperature
than we usually enjoy in Yorkshire. For them
I have thrown out a window-case opening from
the plant house, always open to it and well ex-
posed to the eastern sun. Like the frame, the
bottom of this stand is cemented so as to hold
water and create a moist atmosphere, in spite
of the abundant ventilation in the plant house.
Here a few Orchids that did not like the cooler
treatment have done well, specially Oncidium
Gardneri, O. Forbesi, O. varicosum, O. concolor,
0. dasy style, O. cheirophorum, Pleione lagen-
aria, P. Wallichi, P. Reichenbachiana, which
thrive well under plant house conditions in
winter and flower capitally in autumn. There
are several others that do well with me in the
ordinary plant house — Disa grandiflora, for
instance — but I prefer to plunge it out of doors,
after flowering, in a shady spot, and not bring
it back till I pull it to pieces and repot the
young growths in October. Cypripedium in-
signe montanum and the hybrid C. Leeanum
thrive extremely well under the shade of the
Azaleas, and need no change of quarters all the
year round. Cattleya citrina thrives in this
same house from March to November, but it

June 29, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

451

needs a warmer and moister house in winter
when it is making its growth. It should, how-
ever, be replaced in a shady nook of the cold
house in March when the flower-buds are first
visible, or it will be weakened for another
year. There is another Orchid I would men-
tion as enjoying summer frame treatment,
which needs warm or intermediate winter
quarters— that is, Miltonia vexillaria. I have
not mentioned it before, because it will not
stand really cold winter weather in the plant
house, but no Orchid more thoroughly enjoys
frame treatment in summer. There is one
Orchid I have found absolutely intractable.
This is Oncidium crispum, and if anyone will
tell me how to keep it in good health for more
than two or three years I shall be most de-
lighted to try his plan.

I have now made out, I think, a very suffi-
cient list of Orchids that can be well grown by
those who possess one greenhouse and a frame
or two, and if I can persuade anyone living in
fairly pure air to try my plan I feel sure it will
succeed. For those in smoky districts, where
the air and rain are laden with chemical pro-
ducts and sooty impurities, I can only say for
their consolation that Cypripediums seem
singularly able to stand smoke, and that if
Sphagnum will stand the sooty rain, the Or-
chids too will do the same. It is a curious
instance of the adaptability of Nature that we
should find Sphagnum our most valuable ad-
junct in growing Orchids, when it is unknown
in their native habitats, and yet it is to us an
almost infallible proof that conditions are
favourable for our cool Orchids when it is green
and flourishing. Just as when one translates a
book into a foreign tongue the idea must re-
main the same, while the words themselves are
changed, so must our Orchids have the same
conditions, while their surroundings may be
utterly changed. I must not forget to add that
if any Orchids show bloom while in the frame I
take them out when ready to expand and place
them in the shadiest part of the plant house, so
that the petals shall not get spotted by damp or
dashed by heavy rains. In many instances
I find they last longest in a sitting-room
where no gas is burned at night, and I
do not find the plants injured seriously
when grown in this hardy fashion. An Or-
chid I should specially like to recommend
to amateurs as suitable for an ordinary cold
plant house in winter is Disa grandiflora. This
is an Orchid that is considered difficult to grow
near London, and it is, no doubt, so sensitive
to smoke or any impurity in the air that only
those who live in the country should attempt it.
For those, however, whose gardens are in pure
air, and who have plenty of soft or rain water
for their plants, it is a plant that everyone who
is a gardener should grow. Pot it in Fern-root
and clinkers, putting each tuber against either
clinkers or freestone lumps ; surface with Sphag-
num Moss or not, as you please, it is sure to do
well in a cool and damp house near the glass
in the winter ; in the spring place it in a more
shady corner, with a saucer of water beneath
the inverted pot it should stand upon, and keep
it syringed, well watered and free from fly or
any pest till it has flowered, which should be in
July or early August. Then plunge it outside
under the shade of a hedge, and leave it, after
once watering, to the dew and the rain. In
October take up the pots, pull the young growths
asunder, and start afresh for another year's
round. To those who have a vinery and a
tolerably warm house in which to winter their

Orchids and other plants, I know of no more
eautiful, lasting and delightful Orchid to stow

than Yanda ccerulea. This too, is an Orchid

that has the reputation of being difficult to grow
well and keep in health. I think, therefore,
that if I state briefly the conditions under
which it grows when at home, gardeners will
see why they have failed so frequently. I have
already mentioned how Odontoglossums grow
under the Equator, and have spoken of the
close, damp woods where they are found. Vanda
ccerulea, on the contrary, grows on exposed hill-
tops, on Oak trees, not close to the Equator,
but on the verge of the Northern Tropic, and,
of course, at a very considerable height, as it
grows on so hardy a tree as an Oak, that is
closely allied to our northern trees. What
does all this mean I Surely that, in the first
place, it delights in the full sweep of the wind
(an exact contrast to the Odontoglossums) ;
and, secondly, that it must have a winter and a
summer, and therefore a wet and a dry season
as well. We are told by meteorologists that
when the sun is vertical— that is, straight over
our heads at midday — then is always the time
for those heavy rains we hear of in the Tropics ;
so then it follows that the summer is very wet
and the winter cool and dry on the northern
edge of the Tropics. The Oaks on which Vanda
ccerulea grows are deciduous, we are told- an-
other indication for us, if we will take the hint.
Briefly, then, Vanda ccerulea requires plenty
of moisture and abundance of air in summer,
with a good canopy of leaves to shade it and
keep it cool. In winter it needs all the sun-
shine it can get, with a dry, cool rest, close to
the glass, always with as much air as can be
given. Following out this idea, I have had
great success the last five years with this Or-
chid, and I have carried out its treatment in
this way. In March, when the Muscat vinery
is first shut up and the Vines syringed, I put
my baskets of Vanda ccerulea on a Bide shelf
near the water-tank and clcse to the lower
ventilators. Here they are treated just like
the Vines, and are syringed well every day.
As the sun gets hotter the Vine leaves grow,
and by degrees the Vandas pet heavily shaded ;
while in summer, when the Vines have abund-
ance of air both at top and bottom, they are in
a perfect gale of wind in our exposed garden
when west winds are blowing. Here they
flower gloriously in August, September, and
October ; and I much regret that my fine old
specimen, that had eight long spikes on it, with
flowers 5 inches across and of the loveliest
shade of tender blue, is now past its best,
for I had hoped to have shown it to you
as the result of five years' growth. In Novem-
ber, when the Chrysanthemums are in this
house, I think it wise to put the Vandas into
more warmth till the sun is gaining new power
in the first days of February. I then hang them
up near the ventilators in a little span- roofed
house where we grow Carnations, Geraniums,
Primulas, and such plants. They are kept very
dry now, having been gradually allowed to rest
through the dark days ; and unless they shrivel
I do not give them water at all, as I find the
one essential is a perfect and somewhat pro-
longed rest in cool, dry air. To see the way
these yellow sun-burned leaves turn green and
fresh, and to see the vigorous young roots push
when in spring these baskets, after being re-
surfaced and dressed with fresh Fern root and
Moss, are placed anew in the genial atmosphere
of the vinery, is a delight to a gardener who
likes to see his plants happy ; and though I
should fear "spot," which comes from damp and
want of air, I do not mind a little shrivelling
or yellowing of leaves in early spring, knowing
well how necessary this cool, dry rest is to their
well-being and free-flowering later on. I need
hardly say this is especially an Orchid that

needs a pure air and a clear sky in winter.
1 think I have now trespassed sufficiently on
your patience, and can only hope I have made
myself clear enough to tempt new beginners to
try these Orchids. They will inevitably try
their hand at others. My experience leads me,
at any rate, to this conclusion.

NOTES FROM A NEW ZEALAND
GARDEN.

To admit that one may have too many Daffodils
is to admit a great deal, and I will not be
brought to the admission except it appear
that my stock has reached that point when in-
crease in quantity must be made at the expense
of quality. But I have my fears. This year I
have been replanting by the thousand, and my
experience meanwhile has not been entirely
satisfactory. Every Daffodil grower knows the
pleasure of handling a fair-sized, well-ripened,
and well-shaped bulb, brown, firm, and silky
like an Onion. For my own pait my pleasure
in the bulb is little less than my enjoyment of
the flower. But little of that pleasure have I
had this year, though I have planted so exten-
sively. In the case of some varieties, though
the bulbs are fairly large and healthy, they
have, from overcrowding, become laterally com-
presstd in a way no grower of Daflodils can
approve, whilst the outer skin has not the silky
brown gloss that the epidermis of a perfect
bulb ought to have. Empress has, I think,
under any conditions of growth an ugly bulb in
contrast with the fine, large, smooth-skinned
bulb of Emperor. I have more than once re-
marked the difficulty of distinguishing Empress
frcm Horsfieldi, and I have pointed out in
foimer notes that they are distinguishable by
their relative seed-bearing qualities, Empress
being almost or entirely sterile, and Horsfieldi
fairly fertile. I notice also that they differ
markedly in the shape of their bulbs, that of
Horsfieldi being flatter and fatter of the two.

As to the multiplying of varieties, I am entirely
convinced that the number is already too large ;
and each season I resolve to extend my list no
further, but each season when the new cata-
logues come in my good resolutionsgo to the wall.

Writing of varieties, I am taken back across
the years to a garden that knew no more than
three varieties of Narcissus, and yet the Daffodil
show of that old garden in the early days of
April was not contemptible. It was a disgrace-
fully utilitarian garden, and shockingly geo-
metrical in design ; a square of perhaps a
couple of acres in extent. There was nothing
about it that a modern aesthete would call
picturesque, except perhaps its mortarless wall
which so completely shut it in, that no glimpse
of the inside was possible except through the
pickets of the gate. The wall had originally
been finished off with a thick coping of turf,
and this in time had mellowed into loam, giving
foothold to various kinds of waving Grasses, to
patches of the common, but beautiful yellow-
spored Polypody and rosettes of Houseleek.

I find it hard to believe that there exists now
anywhere on earth a place so rich in wild
flowers as the country-side in which that garden
lay. It was one of those sub-alpine regions
where you stand on the border-land, as it were,
between the loveliness of the fertile lowlands
and the stern loneliness of the granite hills. A
walk of an hour or so would take you into a
wilderness of Heather, where in the peat -bogs
you might find Bog Myrtle and Cotton Grass,
Sundews and Butter-worts and Sphagnum Moss
of all shades, green, yellow, pink and crimson.
In the near neighbourhood of the garden the

452

THE GARDEN.

[June 29, 1895.

most common weeds were lovely flowers — wild
Thyme, Daniel, Brooklime, Bird's-foot Lotus,
Harebell, Meadow-sweet, and so on. In the
woods that lay around and by the mountain
stream a stone-throw from the gate you might
walk ankle-deep in Woodruff, Wood Anemone,
and Marsh Marigold, knee- deep in Wood
Hyacinths, thigh-deep in Lady Fern, and over the
head in Foxglove, Bracken, and wild Raspberry.
A few minutes would take you to the shady
home of the Trientalis europrea, Lily of the
Valley, Oak Fern and Beech Fern, Cystopteris
fragilis and Asplenium nigrum, A. viride and A.
Trichomanes. Take a short walk in one direc-
tion and you might gather sheaves of Bog Iris ;
the same distance in another would bring you to
the habitat of the fringed Bog Bean, rare of
blossom. In autumn if you looked toward the
hills they were purple with Heather, if toward
the woods they were scarlet with the Mountain
Ash (locally, " rodding "). As for Gorse and
Broom, Dog Roses and Sweet Brier, Ivy, Bird
Cherry and wild Cherry, they were abundant
and glorious.

And yet in this richly-endowed district Na
ture had made strange omissions. Primroses
there were in plenty, enough to make the air
smell faint. But the Cowslip, which decks the
English meadows with delight, was wanting.
No child in that locality ever tasted Cowslip
wine or threw a Cowslip ball. Nor were there
sweet Violets beneath the hedges, though there
were myriads of the scentless lilac kind, which
we called the " Cuckoo Flower," because bird and
blossom came at the same time ; nor Meadow
Saffron, nor Snowdrops, though there was a
wood not ten miles away where they were as
Grass ; nor Hart's-tongue Fern, except in one
hidden spot where those in the secret could get
it by risking their necks, nor wild Narcissus of
any kind.

Our forest trees may not have been so remark-
able as our wild flowers ; and yet, on second
thoughts, I think they were. The finest autumn
display of fireworks was made by a slope of
Beeches that burned themselves away through
a scale of brilliant colour into the light leather-
brown of their winter leaves; and the same
slope was just as beautiful in spring, as may be
conceived, for what is more exquisitely delicate
than the young foliage of the Beech 1 unless it
be the young foliage of the Oak, a green with
a yellow in it, seen in nothing else that I re-
member, except the Oak Fern, whence I take
it this last has its name. Then there was the
" Big Beech" covering who knows what area
and giving shelter in its time to countless
generations of children who played under its
branches and fattened on its mast. The Beech
accumulates its hardwood but slowly, and this
particular Behemoth must have been centuries
old. 4s for our Oaks, there are no doubt older,
larger, and mossier Oaks elsewhere, but ours
were old and large enough for me. Then there
were hoary Spruces, the abode and breeding
place of squirrels, miles of Larch, with its green
and crimson tassels, sweetest of all the conifers,
and each Larch seemed to have its chaffinch ;
silver Birches by every stream, Hollies too
heavily berried for the birds to make an im-
pression, cathedrals of Scotch Firs, coverts of
Hazel, Ivy, the small-leaved wild kind every-
where ; tangles of Honeysuckle and occasional
colonies of Sloe or White Thorn. Fui ther, these
woods provided that without which no wood is
perfect— solitude. You might wander through
them a summer's day and meet none of your
own species, nothing but harmless feme naturm,
a pair of cushat doves or so, an occasional roe or
squirrel, a pair of wood wrens or some small
deer.

In this country lay the first Daffodil garden I
knew — the appurtenance to an old, stone, Ivy-
covered farmhouse, roofed atop with lichened
slates, under which stray swarms of bees found
harbourage ; a utilitarian garden where flower,
fruit, and vegetable grew in beauty side by side.
A geometrical garden also, not that there were
elaborate mathematical devices filled with the
primary colours ; curves there were none, the
people who walked in that garden always taking
the shortest distance between two points. Even
the gardener who was put there to dress it and
to keep it did his work in a toying, amateurish
way, as if he were the garden's leisurely owner
and no hired servant. The garden plan was
simplicity itself — a broad grass walk forming a
square, whose sides were parallel with the wall,
and two broader grass walks dividing the first
square into four shorter ; along the sides of the
walks, flowers, Gooseberry bushes and standard
fruit trees ; inside these, vegetables. The Goose-
berries, as I remember them, were the sweetest
in the world, the Apples the sourest. As for
Pears and Plums they were a mockery, except
for blossom, and that was splendid. The
Apples (many of them) were little better than
Crabs, but in blossom-time they were as fine as
the best golden Pippins— finer indeed, for the
blossom of the golden Pippin, I understand, is
a trifle pale, whereas those sour, old Moss-
covered Apple trees were hidden every spring
in blossom, exquisitely flushed with pink, and
some varieties were sweet and mellow even in
the fruits : the small yellow, cracked Oslin, for
instance, and the oval, brown-cheeked Jenny
Sinclair. The Cherries were famous — blossom
and fruit, more particularly one large wild
Cherry tree, locally called by the French name
guigne, which in spring, when it was a sheet of
blossom, was the haunt of the cuckoo ; and in
autumn, when its branches were red with fruit,
haunted by blackbirds and by other bipeds
of a lighter colour. The Walnut trees on each
side of the gate bore beautiful large Nuts with
nothing in them, but Bacon must have had
their leaves in his mind when he said that
" certainly virtue is like precious odours— most
fragrant when they are incensed or crushed."

As for flowers, they were not very numerous,
or very various, or particularly choice. They
were of the robust kind that, once planted, can
hold their own ; and yet they were sweet
enough. There were bunches of Auriculas,
black, snuff-brown, and yellow, which were
seldom, if ever, transplanted ; more particularly
there were frequent bunches of an early
Auricula that came with the Primrose — pale
lilac, sweet-smelling, smooth-leaved and dustless.
I believe it must have been the original alpine
species, and I desire it now more than the finest
green or grey-edged. Cabbage Roses were plen-
tiful, feeble as to stem and foliage, but large
and plethoric as to their flowers. " Cabbage "
Roses, indeed ! There were also crimson
Damask Roses, long and filbert-shaped in the
bud, and semi-double in the exposed state ;
also streaked York and Lancaster ; also a
white full-petalled summer Rose, which grew
almost to a tree, sweetest of Roses for frag-
rance—Rosa alba, I suppose. There were purple
Delphiniumsand blue- veined Aconites— "Monks-
hood," as we called it, or sometimes " Priests'
Poison." There were Balm of Gilead, Rose of
Sharon, Lily of the Valley, and no doubt other
things known to Solomon ; Hepatica and the
blue Navelwort ; Spir.-eas, Gardeners' Garters,
the purple Flower-de-Luce, and Southernwood ;
on the summer house, Ivy, Traveller's Joy, yel-
low Corchorus, the larger Bindweed, and flower-
ing Currant, the double red (which, strange to
say, bore berries) and the single white. The

Lilac trees seemed to grow out of the stone
wall, but their trusses of flower showed that
they did not want for a good root-run.

Seeing that I began with Daffodils, all this
may seem, as the French would say, " apropos
of boots," but, in the manner of a rondeau, I
return to my initial theme. Every year the
garden had its " spring cleaning," so that by
the 1st of April everything was spic and span —
all dead matter removed, Raspberry canes and
Gooseberry bushes severely trimmed, and the
soil delved and raked. At this particular
juncture the Daffodils availed themselves to
come out in bunches innumerable, regularly
marshalled like an army, and therefore some-
what formal in arrangement, but all the better
suited to the style of the garden, which affected
straight lines. With all my varieties of Daffodil
and various styles of planting, I am afraid I
have never produced any more telling effect
than was seen every spring in that homely
garden. Perhaps it is that bygone joys loom
large through the mist of memory. Too well

I know, wbere'r I go,
That there hath passed away a glory from the earth.

But still I know also that the fairness of that
garden was not altogether in the youth of the
eyes that saw it. Yet it possessed only three
varieties of Narcissus— a medium-sized Non-
such Daffodil, Narcissus odorus, and a Nar-
cissus poeticus, which came a few days later
than the Daffodil — ornatus, I should think,
from its earliness. Nor was there any trans-
planting or thinning for twenty years at least,
except perhaps when bulbs were given away.
In my garden no Narcissus known to me would
remain satisfied with this treatment. The
bulbs would crowd and jostle each other, and
ultimately the blooms would deteriorate. But
that old garden had a light pebbly soil resting
on a gravelly bottom ; whereas my garden has
a somewhat heavy loam resting on hard clay,
and this may make the difference. However
that may be, the multiplication of varieties
becoming a matter for serious consideration.
A. W.

Rosa indica.— Perhaps one of the choicest of
the wild Roses grown in gardens is this species,
and it is one that many would cherish if only for
the fact that it is one of the parents of the loveliest
race of Roses, the Teas. But it appeals to us
through its beauty, and a little bed of it at Kew
is gay with many flowers, which are of a bright
self-crimson colour and borne in clusters. It is
one of the few species that bloom continuously,
and although not so robust as most of its kindred,
merits a favourable position and amply repays any
extra care bestowed upon it.

Epigsea repens. - Being a great admirer of
our Mayflower (Epiga?a repens), I was interested
in a recent Garden note which alluded to the
lack of interest shown in its garden cultivation,
speaking of it as "really too sweet a subject to
be neglected." While I fully agree with this
sentiment, experience has taught me that this
charming and modest little wildling is one of the
most difficult of all forest plants to grow success-
fully in the garden. Indeed, I have yet to see a
single instance in which its obstinate wild wood
nature was sufficiently subdued to make it succeed
at all away from its habitat even under the
greatest care in providing the most suitable con-
ditions. Your writer speaks of the plant thriv-
ing best on an eastern aspect, which surprises me,
because when I find it in this region it is always
on a western slope or exposure, and usually on
high ground where moisture can rarely accumu-
late. There is evidently very much for us to
learn yet in regard to the requirements of this
lovely little plant. But possibly if we knew it all
we might not admire and appreciate it half as
well. — H. Hendricks, Kingston, N. Y.

June 29. 1895.]

THE GARDEN

453

OFFINGTON.
This picturesque house and most interesting
garden are only a short distance from Worthing.
The visitor receives a pleasing impression the
moment he sees the entrance lodge, which, em-
bowered in creepers, is characteristically English ;
whilst native trees — notably the Scotch Fir on
either side of the pleasant drive that leads to the
house— are expressive of the most beautiful
surroundings of an English home, compared
with which the exotic conifers that so many
plant are a poor substitute. In the garden itself
Major Gaisford has gathered together, and
grouped and arranged in an artistic manner, a
perfect host of rare and beautiful trees, shrubs
and plants which, favoured by a genial climate,
give to the garden a distinctive aspect of its own.
There is here an entire absence of that conven-
tional, formal gardening which cuts up the
pleasant turf, lays down hard, geometric patterns
where we should see the free and graceful forms
of choice shrubs and noble flowers massed

seeing it in flower some years ago. C;esalpinia at their first flowering produced salmon-coloured
japonica has survived in an exposed position, | blossoms, but which subsequently bore flowers
although moved last December. Iris Lorteti ' possessing the natural brilliant hue. The finest
and Eremurus robustus are flowering well this specimens of Vallota that have ever come under
and a plant of Ostrowskia magnifica has ; '"? not,ce h?v? be?n Srown .in .the windows of

year,

cottages and farmhouses, which situation and
form of culture would seem admirably adapted
to the requirements of the plants, inducing
vigorous growth and free -flowering that must be
seen to be credited. — S. W. F.

eight flowers on one spike, and they are all
pure white.

Abutilon vitifolium does well here, and also
the purple var. It stands all weathers and the
flowers last for nearly two months. Photinia
serrulata, twenty years old, bloomed strongly
last year. We have never before seen it in flower
in England in the open. Pourthia; villosa (Pho-
tinia) is a beautiful shrub that does not appear
in catalogues.. It makes a mass of bloom in
April 4 feet high The leaves turn bright red Tmg Li, recent, i]lustrated jn The Gar is

in autumn. Veitchs hybrid Phillagena flowered „„„f;„„,„,.i„ ,Q„,0;i,„i,i„ f„„ t\,a „„„„f ,};«■„„„

here in the open border in 1803. The flowers
are poor in colour and inferior to those of both

Flower Garden.

LILIUM ELEGANS.

of its parents, Philesia and Lapageria. The
Burmese Rosa gigautea has run up to 15 feet,
but has not flowered as yet. Eupatorium Wit-

Offington House, Worthing. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by Miss Gaisford

and blended. The large illustration shows the
house nearly hidden by climbing plants and
a grand old Ivy-embowered Walnut standing on
a fine expanse of lawn. Beside the walk are
large beds where the best hardy flowers have an
opportunity to prove how much beauty they can
impart to the garden where the plan of arrange-
ment is large and simple in design. The smaller
view shows the house from the flower garden,
and the luxuriance of growth so early as Iris
time is a remarkable contrast to the nakedness
of most flower gardens at this period, when they
are waiting to receive their summer occupants.
Of the many plant treasures that are cherished
here we need not now speak, as a good account
of them may be found in The Garden of
July 13, 1889. Major Gaisford (writing to us
recently) says now that the evidence of injury
from the past winter is practically complete, he
is surprised to find how few of the tender things
are quite dead. Although many risky plants
are grown, the actual losses do not number more
than about 2 per cent, out of a total of nearly
700. The greatest loss is a Fremontia calif ornica,
which was on a west wall, where we remember

particularly remarkable for the great difference
that exists between the several varieties in colour,
height of the plant, and season of blooming. One
variety is among the earliest of all Lilies to bloom
in the open ground, for its blossoms follow closely
on those of the greenish yellow L. pyrenaicum,
which has been for some
years the first member of
the genus to flower. The
variety referred to is a strong
growing form that will reach
a height of 18 inches to 2
feet, with large orange col-
oured flowers, irregularly
shaded with red, and thickly
dotted with brown. It is
especially noticeable when
growing, by reason of the
young leaves and flower-
buds being clothed with a
whitish down, which to a
great extent disappears be-
fore the blossoms expand.
This Lily is very liberally
treated in the matter of
names, for it is known as
marmoratum aureum, ro-
bustum, and guttatuin. It
is certainly a very distinct
and striking form, valuable,
too, from its earliness. Be-
fore the blossoms of this
are faded away several other
members of the elegans grou p
are expanded, the first this
year being Prince of Orange,
one of the dwarfest of all
Lilies, with pleasing yellow
blossoms.

Quite a month later than

the forms above mentioned

is the variety venustum or

armeniacnm, whose flowers

are of a pure unspotted apricot tint, very like

those of the Japanese L. Batemanme. Widely

as the varieties differ from each other in their

season of blooming, they vary even more in

the colour of their blossoms, ranging as they do

p"1™ from the pale buff-yellow of alutaceum and the

a somewhat richer tinted Prince of Orange to the deep

blackish crimson of haematochroum, cruentum, or

for it is known under all three of

mannianum has lived in the open border for
some five years, and the photo (of which an
engraving appeared in The Garden last week)
shows it in bloom about Christmas Day last year.
It is a South American shrub and was turned
out of the greenhouse, being too large,
corymbosa was in full bloom on a south wall
till frost came, and Physianthus albens after Horsman

two winters' frost has borne seed. these namee. Of flowers intermediate in colour

I between these two extremes we have Alice Wilson,
Vallota purpurea. — Most bulbs imported ! rich yellow with a reddish shade, illustrated in
from the Cape flower during their first season in ; The Garden, November 8, 1890. Though it has
the spring, this being their time of blossoming in been grown for some years this variety is still
their native habitat. After a season or two, how- j scarce and comparatively dear. On the same
ever, they flower at the same time as English-grown ', coloured plate with Alice Wilson was the form Van

bulbs. I have a very beautiful variety of Amaryllis
belladonna, which I brought back from the Cape,
that flowered first during the month of March and
on the second occasion in June, since when it has
invariably bloomed in September. All the plants
of Vallota purpurea that I have seen growing wild,
and I have seen some thousands, carried blossoms

Houttei, one of the best of the bright crimson
flowers. A very distinct variety in all stages of
growth is brevifolium, with short, very dark
green leaves and flowers of a kind of reddish
salmon tint. This is one of the tallest varieties
that we have, for it will reach a height of a couple
of feet, while the little buff-coloured alutaceum is

of a vivid red, and I believe that the pale tinted only about 6 inches high. From this it will be
blooms referred to on p. 414 as occurring occa- seen that the difference in height between the
sionally in the case of imported bulbs are merely ! several varieties is also very marked. Besides all
consequent on debility. I have had bulbs which i this, L. elegans is remarkable from the fact that

454

THE GARDEN.

[June 29, 18j5.

one of the varieties has double blossoms, which
are not atall numerous in this genus. The varietal
names of staminosum and flore-pleno have been
applied to this double-flowered form. The petals
of this are deep red, arranged in a cup like
manner, the interior of which is filled with flattened
staminoid segments, which give the flower a very
singular appearance. Another double-flowered
Lily (Lilium tigrinum flore-pleno) is in the duplex
character of its blossoms totally distinct from the
preceding. The flowers of this double variety of
the Tiger Lily are composed of an extra number
of petals, arranged in a regular manner so as to
form a symmetrical shaped bloom. Of other
Lilies, double blossoms are occasionally borne by
the Japanese L. auratum, but this variety after the
first season generally reverts to the normal form.
A double variety of the Martagon Lily was at one
time in cultivation, but I have not now seen it for
some years. That form of the Madonna Lily
(candidum) met with sometimes as flore-pleno
and at others as monstrosum is a poor garden
plant and at best only a curiosity. In this the
petals are to a great extent suppressed, the entire
head of bloom consisting of small bracts and peta-
loid segments. When speaking of L. elegans I
should have mentioned that it is frequently met
with under the specific name of Thunbergianum.

T.

NOTES FROM OAKWOOD.
Rheum MoorCROFTIANTJM is a distinct and rather
attractive species of this family. It is dwarf, the
flowers being arranged in a dense spike. Those
who admire hardy fine-leaved plants should make
note of this. Pinguicula grandiflora and vulgaris
are quite at home in a rather damp place. Al-
though of such small proportions, the lovely
Lobelia-like blue of the flowers renders them quite
ornamental. They have a very pretty appearance
growing in this natural way. Andromeda fas-
tigiata is a success growing in company with its
near relative, A. tetragona. These little Andro-
medas are remarkably quaint-looking and worthy
of a place where the necessary conditions can be
secured them. Lithospermum Gastoni is doing
well, as is also Omphalodes Lucilia;, the bright
Forget-me-not hue of which is very taking. It is
growing on a mound where the drainage is very
free. If this were as easy of culture as many of
our spring flowers are, how valuable it would be.
One can easily imagine the effect of a mass of it
in full bloom. Coronilla iberica is a showy little
thing, carpeting the ground with deep green foli-
age, which is thickly studded with bright yellow
blooms. It produces a nice effect in a somewhat
elevated position. Choisya ternata was laden
with its fragrant blooms. It is a charming thing
for the open air, perfectly hardy, much more so
apparently than many things reputed more so.
Hundredsof bloomsof Aponogeton distachyon were
open in a shallow pond. The Cape Pondweed
thrives like a weed at Wisley ; in company with
it are Caltha palustris fl.-pl., the large, double,
bright yellow flowers embellishing the water
margin ; and I was pleased to see our native Bog
Bean (Menyanthes)occupyingan honourable place.
Seen in the form of a good-sized colony it is de-
cidedly ornamental, quite as worthy of a place
in gardens as many exotics. Cornus canadensis
is worthy of a note. It carpets the ground in the
same manner as the wood Anemone. The little
Foam Flower, spreading widely in a sheltered spot,
was very pretty. J. C. B.

the hard gravel path that bordered the bed and
also between the interstices of the steps that led
down by its side. In my own garden in heavy
soil I find them quite hardy, though, having
planted the tubers 3 inches instead of 6 inches deep
as recommended, I was prepared to lose many dur-
ing the last winter, and was agreeably surprised to
find them this spring none the worse for the
damp and cold they had experienced. Still I
should imagine that a light soil is capable of bring-
ing Alstrci-merias to the greatest perfection, and
that the plan of sowing the seed in the bed that
is to contain the plants is preferable to planting the
tubers.— S. W. F., Torquay.

Iris stylosa.— This lovely Iris, which is in-
valuable for the scented blue flowers that it pro-
duces through the depth of winter, is not always
happy in its surroundings. I know several gar-
dens where it merely exists, never flowers, and
dwindles rather than increases. I saw last week
an enormous clump of this Iris fully 3 feet through
growing on a steep slope of light soil facing south,
where it seemed perfectly at home. This clump,
I was told, flowers very freely, and had been
divided many times In the neighbourhood of
Algiers, where this Iris grows wild, it is found on
dry hills and beneath the shade of sloping woods,
while I. reticulata, which also abounds there, loves
the neighbourhood of stream and pool. I. stylosa
should, to be seen at its best, have light soil and
be planted on a slope with a certain amount of
protection from piercing winds. — S. W. F.

Sedum spathulifolium.— This excellent rock
plant is a native of North America, and though
easy to grow is by no means common. Several
plants now in bloom look very effective. The
leaves (as the name implies) are spathulate, and
although of a fleshy nature, the plants have stood
the test of the last severe winter. The leaves are
glaucous in colour and are arranged in rosettes ;
the plant is only a few inches high and of very
neat habit ; the flowers are bright yellow and
appear in loose cymes. Like most Sedums, it seems
to thrive best in a sunny position. — F. W. M.

Alstrosmerias. — I noticed the other day some
of these beautiful flowers growing in a sloping bed
of light and shaly soil that in strength surpassed
any that I had before seen. The tallest plant was
considerably over 3 feet in height and others
were nearly as tall. The many-tinted, delicately-
coloured blossoms were just expanding in hundreds
and the foliage was dark and abundant. The
plants in question had been raised from seed which
had been sown in the bed seven years previously,
since which time the seedlings had not been
touched. Plants were coming up here and there in

well cultivated. I never was more struck with
this fact than in the case of masses of C. rotundi-
folia. I only hope C. patula may prove perennial,
but if it does not it seeds freely, only free-seeders
and self-sowers come where they are not wished
as practically to constitute themselves weeds.

Hypericum aureum. — This is, I believe, a
new plant, and the name may seem a poor one for
a Hypericum, the essential colour of whose
species is yellow ; but here the colour may be said
to have special reference to the margins of the
leaves, which are golden, and also to the deeper
yellow of the stamens in relation to the other
parts of the flower, and this is all the more re-
markable when we see the splendid massive sta-
mens constitute the chief part of the flowers. The
petals are comparatively small, hence the distinct
aspect of this species. I find it most reliably
hardy, and it vies with the kind called H. Moseri-
anum tricolor for bright foliage colouring in the
autumn.

Cytisus schipksensis. — I spoke of this last
year, basing my remarks on a specimen flowered
in the cool greenhouse. I have now to speak of
a specimen grown in the open air and stood out-
of-doors without any protection all last severe
winter. Moreover, my present specimen is on its
own roots (not a worked plant) and it gives a
totally different idea of its habit, which is pros-
trate or procumbent ; even strong branches
rest flatly on the earth. It is now in flower — how
lovely and how distinct ! The flowers are large,
white and arranged in terminal tufts on the ends
of all the short twigs. Beyond all doubt this is a
shrubby species of the first order for culture in
the rock garden. J. Wood.

Woodville, Kirhstall.

NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS.
Lewisia rediviva. — What a fascination to see a
number of these flowers open suddenly some June
morning as soon as the first glint of sunshine
reaches the plants. Last night, as for days be-
fore, I had, of course, seen the swelling buds,
which in their peculiar fashion rested on their
sides on the ground, but for anything I could
know they might have gone on days longer, but
thiB morning with a wonderful unison half-a-
dozen plants, without any warning that the ob-
server could read, burst their bulky buds and let
loose the compressed satiny petals, displaying
them in all their exquisite beauty of tints, rang-
ing from paper-white, blush-white, pink, and
salmon-pink, and in all cases glistening like glass.
The flowers close daily about two o'clock, but for
four or seven days they may be seen, preferably
in the morning hours ; by the time the flowers
have done the plant will have shrivelled up to the
merest threads, which you might not have seen
had you not known that something had existed
there but a few hours before. We see this native
of the Rocky Mountains is most aptly named
rediviva, or the Resurrection Plant. It puts on
its most beautiful dress as it disappears, not to
show itself again until September or October in
the form of bristling tufts of succulent grass, and
in such state more or less visible all winter.

Campanula patula (L. ). — I believe this is
given by different authorities as of biennial and
perennial duration. Anyhow, its pleasing vari-
ableness and big pendent bells laxly borne
on many-branched stems and lasting for weeks
make the plant worth a place. The plants
I have in mind are from seed brought by
a lady from Wildbad. I see the same plants
which flowered last autumn are again in bloom.
I never saw a British form so attractive as this ;
still one hardly knows what our native plants are
capable of as decorative flowers until they are

FLOWER GARDEN NOTES.

Finks. — Cuttings of these may be put in as the
different varieties go out of flower if it is desirable
to increase the stock, and a bed may be prepared
at once for them. As previously noted, I am
inclined to prefer a bed in an extemporised frame,
where they may be shaded for a time if necessary
or get the benefit of all the sunshine available
should the weather prove dull and showery for
some time after their insertion. Soil turned out
from pot, pan, and box at the time of planting
out summer bedding stuff will do very well for
the cuttings of Pinks, Violas, and alpine Phloxes,
later on for Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, the suf-
fruticosa and decussata section of Phloxes as well
as for layering a few special Carnations that are
likely to be required for pot work. As this soil,
if lying in a heap fully exposed to the sun, will
probably be very dry, it should receive a good
soaking of water after levelling down the day
before the cuttings are inserted, previously adding
a little fresh leaf soil and sand and incorporating
the same with the old potting soil. Some 4 inches
of soil resting on a hard bottom are much better for
cuttings of all the above plants than to allow a
considerable depth ; under the latter conditions
the roots will ramble far afield and the plants
suffer proportionately when they are lifted for re-
moval to other quarters. With Pinks may be
planted the large-flowered single Begonias (the
crimson, scarlet and pink shades). The flowers of
the Pinks will be over before the Begonias are at
their best, but the foliage will form an admirable
carpet for the large drooping flowers.

Marguerites. — In the note on "Flowers at
Gunnersbury House" I see the statement made
that Mr. Hudson keeps the leaf-boring maggot,
so detrimental to the preservation of clean, healthy
foliage on the large-leaved Marguerites, in check
by the aid of Richards' vaporiser. Does this mean
oft-repeated doses to ward oft' the attack of the
fly, or that the maggot itself once established is
destroyed by the vaporiser ? I have been led to
the query because the large-flowered varieties,
both white and yellow, used to enter rather largely
into vase and window-box arrangements, but I
was obliged to discard them, as long before the
end of the season the foliage presented a most

June 29, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

455

unsightly appearance. The small-leaved variety
is not so susceptible to the attack of the maggot,
and is used for the centre of vases or as a back
row for boxes, edged with a nicely contrasting
trailing plant, as Fireball Trop.tolum, Mme. Thi-
baut Ivy-leaved Pelargonium or the trailing
blue Campanula. For large vases or boxes, alter-
nate plants of a dark Fuchsia, such as Abundance,
may be associated with the Marguerites. I notice
complaints respecting the very indifferent appear-
ance of the autumn-flowering perennial Mar-
guerite, Chrysanthemum maximum. It wants
annual removal ; at least, this is my experience
with it on a light, dry soil. The old stools should
be lifted clean out at the end of each flowering
season, and the strongest bits selected and re-
planted, doing them thoroughly well. Writing
of Chrysanthemums reminds one that where
clumps or beds of the summer-flowering varieties,
whether pompon or Japanese, were planted, they
are likely to want a little attention, if the
hot, dry weather continues, in the shape of a
mulching of good manure and a thorough
soaking of water. I should like to extend
this soaking so that it includes the whole of
our herbaceous borders. The ground is getting
very dry, and all plants, especially moisture-
loving subjects, are beginning to look the worse
for the drying out at the root and the daily strain
imposed by a hot sun. I am glad to note the
appearance of shoots — weak numerically and lack-
ing vigour, but, nevertheless, very welcome — on
our big stools of hardy Fuchsias, that have been
in their present quarters many years, and which
I thought had succumbed to the exceptional
cold of last February. I shall run no risk again,
but mulch the stools heavily at the approach of
winter. Nearly all the Gypsophila is also on the
move, and as there will be a considerable difference
in the time of flowering between the early and
late clumps, the season will be proportionately
extended. This is getting a very familiar plant.
At the majority of summer shows it enters very
largely into nearly all arrangements of cut flowers.
Flowering shrubs. — The best season of the
pleasure grounds — so far as a blaze of colour is
concerned — has departed with the decline of Aza-
leas and Rhododendrons, which had in their turn
followed hard in the wake of the displays furnished
by Ribes, Forsythias and Weigelas, but there are
some interesting things still in flower. Chionan-
thus virginicus is one of the most delicately beau-
tiful things we have in hardy shrubs, and with not
too bright or prolonged sunshine lasts in flower a
long time. Now that its value as a forced shrub
has been demonstrated it should rind its way into
many large conservatories early in the season, and
from thence be consigned to the shrubber}' border.
Colutea arborescens is a shrub not widely known.
It ie seen to advantage just at present in a large
border formed at the end of one of the lawns,
backed by a nice clump of Prunus Pissardi, the
latter flanked by two large Spira-a aria-folia. Nice
sprays of the highly-coloured Prunus are very
acceptable in a cut state to mix with small branches
of the Colutea with Kerrias or flowers of similar
hue. A novelty in flower just at present is Asi-
mina triloba. By no stretch of the imagination
could it be pronounced beautiful, but it is a very
remarkable flower both in shape and colour. I
noticed several flowers this year of a very intense
hue, the shade apparently varying as one turned
the flower from side to side, and going off almost to
the shade of gold towards the centre. Perhaps the
finest object in theshrubberies just at present is the
double form of Deutzia scabra. I have had occa-
sion before to draw attention to the exceptional
beauty of this shrub, and this year all the plants
are simply a mass of flower. This, when one gets
plants some 9 feet high by as much in width
naturally means a very beautiful display, and if
one can manage to get something planted fairly
close to the shrub that will contrast nicely with
it, such, for instance, as Delphiniums or Lark-
spurs, the effect is very pleasing. The value of
this shrub is enhanced from the fact that, like the
varieties of Ribes referred to in a previous note,
it can be very readily increased from cuttings,

really nice little bushes being furnished by this exceptionally severe one, but the Lobelias, which
means in a couple of seasons. The value of the remained totally unprotected in the open bed,
white and rose-coloured double forms of the com- came through the ordeal scathless. I am con-
mon Bramble for certain positions in the wild vinced that in some gardens the plants may be
garden is now generally known, and one often | left out with impunity, while in others, do what
comes across clumps in situations for which they you will, it seems well-nigh impossible to keep up
are admirably adapted and which could hardly ! a stock. I speak feelingly as to the latter phase,
be filled more satisfactorily by any other plant. I as formerly in a sheltered garden with light soil I
Like another trailing plant — the Ivy — these Bram- could not induce the plants to survive the winter
bles will accommodate themselves to almost any | in the open. I would advise growers of these
description of soil, although they are seen at their Lobelias to try the various methods recommended
best in deep, rather holding ground, a remark ' for preserving their stocks, viz., leaving the
equally true of the common Blackberry. plants undisturbed where they have flowered and

Daffodils. — Where these are naturalised in protecting with a light mulching — leaving them
pleasure grounds the foliage will be found to have ' in the same manner, but without protection —
come to an early — it is to be hoped not premature ; lifting the clumps, storing in cold frames, and
— decay, and if in spots where it and the Grass dividing in the spring — dividing in the autumn,
growing somewhat long amongst is apt to be ob growing on in single pots in heat until well
jectionable, there will be no harm now in running started, and then placing in a cool greenhouse :

they will then soon discover
which process is the most
successful in their locality,
and can adhere to that. —
S. W. F., Torquay.

Sedum kamtschati-
cum. — Though introduced
from Morthern Asia many
years ago, this handsome
rock plant is not seen in
gardens as often as it de-
serves to be. It is now in
full bloom. The flower-
stems are semi - prostrate,
bearing an umbellate cyme
(4 inches or 5 inches across)
of bright yellow flowers with
orange - coloured anthers.
The individual flowers are
not much more than half
an inch in diameter, but
beingcombined into a large
cyme they are very effec-
tive. The plant is very
easily grown and should
be in every rock garden.
— F. W. M.

Propagating Pinks.
— The season of flowering
of these charming as well
as useful and in many in-
stances sweetly fragrant
flowers will soon be over,
and as soon as the blooms
are past, preparations may
be made for increasing the
stock. Many who grow
these plants largely rely
in the main on division of
the roots later in the year,
and particularly so of the
commoner kinds. Divided
plants flower quite freely,
it is true, though the in-
dividual flowers are smaller
than those borne on plants
the scythe over it and clearing away. I have from cuttings. Stock raised in the latter way
mentioned the Daffodils because if it is deemed i is generally marked by increased vigour to-
advisable to extend their naturalisation, a decision ! gether with a compactness of the tufts not usually
must be come to ere long as to the varieties to to be found in divided plants. Few plants are
be introduced and the most suitable sites ; also if more easy of increase by cuttings, and the
they are likely to be required for cutting, to so flowering over, plenty of material will be obtain-
choose the sorts as to provide a season at once able, so the work may be taken in hand at once,
lengthy and well sustained. E. Burrell. I The simplest and eafest way to ensure success is

Clartmont. j to strip the shoots from the tufts with a heel at-

tached, and without further preparation or ado,
Herbaceous Lobelias. — Referring to the insert them firmly in sandy soil. Where only a
subject of wintering herbaceous Lobelias, anent few dozen are needed a shady corner will suit them
which eight notes appeared in vol. xlvi. of The well, but if a quantity is required it will be best to
Harden, I may state that the plan of leaving , give the cuttings the protection of some lights,
them untouched in the open border has again Covered by these and shaded rather lightly, the
answered admirably. Not one of the clumps is cuttings, if kept moist, will root in about three or
dead, but all are throwing up strong growths, four weeks. During this period they must not be
As I pointed out (p. 520, vol. xlvi.), only one of , kept too close or too wet. 1 prefer when watering
the many writeis who took part in the discussion ! the cuttings while in frames to apply the water
advocated leaving the plants in situ, and that one overnight, giving a good soaking, and allow the
recommended protection during the winter in the I lights to remain off all night, replacing them about
form of a few inches of Fern or rough leaf soil. 8 a.m. the following day. Treated in this way the
The soil here is heavy and the winter has been an losses are very few. When inserting the cuttings

The flower garden at Offington. Engraved for The Garden from a
photograph sent by Miss Oaisford.

456

THE GARDEN

[June 29, 1895.

a fair amount of room should be given so as to
permit of growth. Better still if as soon as rooted
the young plants be transplanted into small
nursery beds in good soil li inches apart each way,
as by so doing fine bushy little tufts will result in
a very short time. The young plants prepared in
this way make nice presentable subjects for sale,
while for potting up in early autumn preparatory
to forcing they are all that could be desired, and
in every way more satisfactory than divided
plants. The side shoots are earlier produced by
removing the central growth when the plant is
established. — E. J.

Kitchen Garden.

THE EXHIBITION STATUS OF THE

TOMATO.

Douutless to many it may be thought strange
that any dispute should take place over the
status of the Tomato. To them the question is
one they have settled for themselves. Given only
plenty of Tomatoes, and they are eaten ripe and
uncooked with the same avidity that they are
partaken of cooked. Were the Tomato essentially
a sweet fruit such as is the bulk of what we term
dessert fruits, it is doubtful whether it would be
so generally acceptable in its various cooked forms
as it now is, yet the absence of that sweetness and
flavour peculiar to most dessert fruits in no way
detracts from its consumption in a ripe, uncooked
state ; indeed, there can be no doubt but that
such consumption is rapidly increasing. Ordi-
narily, this beautiful, if not delicious, fruit is
classed as a vegetable. It is the victim to some
extent of indifferent origin and gradual develop-
ment. Starting with very indifferent examples
that were not at all attractive uncooked, naturally
the Tomato fell into the vegetable groove or rut.
It was regarded only as a sauce product or an
ordinary vegetable accessory to dinners, and
hence its long recognised vegetable statue. Its
next development might be said to have been
found in its exaltation to a very pleasant salad
element — for Tomatoes have been for some time
identified with salading — and to-day form a
common feature or accompaniment. Still, this
latter association only helped to retain the Tomato
amongst vegetables. During the past few years,
however, it is most obvious that these fruits have
taken a higher position. The world has so far
recognised their excellences in a ripe raw condition,
that they are consumed largely in that condition
as ordinary accompaniments to meals, and even
partaken of as refreshment at odd times.

It is this development of a most interesting and
beautiful garden product that has caused the
dispute as to the exhibition status of the Tomato
to arise. It is a question much more easily
raised than satisfactorily settled. Apart from
their undesirability for ordinary sale, there seems
to be no limit to the size to which Tomatoes
may be grown for cooking, provided the fruits
are firm, fresh and of good form. But fruits of
these huge dimensions are very objectionable for
consumption at meals in a ripe and uncooked state.
To meet this latter requirement we have produced
in great abundance small fruited sorts ot various
shapes and colours most of which are singularly
adapted for dessert use, but would be almost use-
less for cooking. Naturally, even in connection
with large-fruited sorts, a line is drawn when forms
of consumption differ. The largest and most un-
gainly go to the kitchen, the small and hand-
some fruits to the table direct, and in this way
again the status of the Tomato is clearly shown.
Practically we cannot get away from the fact that,
having regard to its peculiar nature, a fruit of the
most perfect form and beautiful colour, allied to
soft, luscious, if not rich-flavoured flesh and exceed-
ingly thin rind, it is as much entitled to rank as
a dessert fruit as any other recognised fruit is.
Indeed, it is very absurd to assert that it is not or
cannot be such in face of the fact that it is already
so regarded and consumed by millions of people.

But then there is to be remembered the fact that
by common consent hitherto Tomatoes have been
shown as vegetables, and such common consent
cannot be ignored. To refuse to them their old
position in vegetable collections would be as
fatuous as it would be unwise ; indeed, there
is for such course no reason whatever. But then
it will be said Tomatoes cannot be regarded as
both fish and flesh, as both fruit and vegetable.
To that it may be asked in reply, Why not?
What earthly reasons are there why they might
not be so regarded 7 Amongst vegetables on the
exhibition tables they, when good, occupy a high,
indeed a very prominent place. Amongst fruit,
of course they come low in position. It is so
far a fact as to be undeniable that the Tomato,
more than any other product we have, forms a
connecting link between fruits and vegetables,
whilst they have botanically as good a title to be
termed fruit as anything else that is grown.

In a matter that creates difference of opinion it
is so natural for many who are yet undecided to
turn to the Royal Horticultural Society for a
proper lead. That is a judicial position from
which that body may well shrink, although not
lacking courage. It would almost seem as if
a judgment already had been given, because the
council did last year, as it has again this year,
create classes for Tomatoes at the great fruit
shows at the Crystal Palace, and thus have placed
Tomatoes in the category of fruits. That posi-
tion would seem to be emphasised b}' the fact
that in the vegetable show schedule, to take place
at Cliiswick in September, Tomatoes are not men-
tioned. Still it will not for one moment do to
assume that it is proposed to make Tomatoes into
fruits absolutely and to ignore them as vegetables.
Their omission from theChiswick show is perhaps
an oversight only, perhaps determined because
included in the Crystal Palace schedule. How-
ever, the real mind of the society on this interest-
ing matter will probably be clearly set forth later
when the new code of judging is formulated, and
no one need be surprised if therein Tomatoes are
found to occupy the perhaps anomalous, yet im-
perative, position of being regarded as both fruits
and vegetables. A. D.

pensate, as the roots are hardly helped and the
mischief has been already done. It is during such
seasons as the present that sorts that range from 2
feet to 4 feet in height, in which section we have
many of the finest quality and abundant croppers,
prove to be so serviceable. Being far lees ex-
haustive of moisture than are tall Peas, they can
be induced with fairly good culture and thin sow-
ing to carry out their crops fully and to much
more freely retain foliage. Frequent overhead
sprinklings at night may also be easily given. It
is very doubtful whether Peas that range to an
average height of 6 feet are more productive from
the same length of row than are those which reach
to a height of only 4 feet. Even the growing
difficulty of finding needful supports to Peas pre-
sents another reason of an economical kind why
dwarfer varieties are generally the best. — A. D.

Mint. — This excellent herb constitutes about
Mitcham a very important field crop. On one
farm alone over 20 acres are grown, but chiefly
of the Peppermint, as that is the most useful for
distilling. There are two varieties -white and
black. The former, however, is far from being white.
It is really less dark than is the black, and is the
more esteemed because it furnishes the finest or
richest perfumed oil. The common Spear Mint is
also largely grown, but chiefly for ordinary uses.
New beds are made every spring, and old ones
seem to be renovated every few years. Much
depends on how the}' stand. The ordinary course
of culture consists in having ground very deeply
ploughed and manured, well harrowed and
levelled, then marked out into lines with what is
called a racer, a foot apart. The young growths
when just high enough to handle are lifted from
the old beds and planted out from 10 inches to 12
inches apart in the rows, and where growth is
good the plants form almost a dense mass to cut
in August. It is then laid along neatly in rows,
and later gathered up on mats carefully and
carried into the distilling houses, where the oil is
extracted. The refuse, because containing potash
largely, forms good manure. — D.

Rhubarb Hawke's Champagne. — So popu-
lar has this early and richly-coloured Rhubarb
become in the market, that it always obtains a
higher price than any other, thus proving that
colour is an important consideration. Later sorts
have been very much a drug this season owing to
the immense crop of Gooseberries everywhere
and the early period of their maturing. The
run on Gooseberries, however, serves to show the
importance of having varieties of Rhubarb that are
very early as well as of rich colour, and so far
Hawke's Champagne seems best to meet these
requirements. Jt is almost surprising to find how
rapidly any variety is increased in the market
gardens, but good ground and high culture soon
create wonders. Then frequent dividing and
transplanting into freshly manured ground also
materially tend to precocity. — D.

Dwaif Peas. — All Peas in gardens have been
experiencing a very trying time during the long
drought which has been so marked in many dis-
tricts. Especially have the taller varieties been
distressed from lack of moisture, as these, but the
taller especially, have to materially exhaust the soil
resources of food and moisture before podding
commences. When grown very thinly, as is now
in good gardens more the rule, and sown in rows
very widely apart, there is less trouble. If the
ground has been deeply trenched or otherwise
specially prepared by deep working and liberal
manuring, the Pea plants may get over their
trouble fairly well. But in myriads of gardens
Peas, and especially tall ones, are still grown far
too thickly, and on ground that has been only
ordinarily prepared. No wonder by the time they
commence to bloom the lower leafage is thin or
flagging, and the plants are quite incapable of
carrying a decent crop. In such case even liberal
waterings and mulchings of manure seldom com-

EARLY CAULIFLOWERS.
Mr. Tallack (see p. 421) does not recommend
Walcheren for earliness, but Early London. As
I grow Cauliflowers in considerable quantities I
have at some little trouble gone into the matter
and tested the earliness of various kinds. Early
London in a trial at Chiswick last season was very
much like Walcheren, but it must be explained
the trial was not for earliness, but to test varie-
ties. It was soon seen, however, which was the
earliest ; this was the Erfurt type, a variety I
would strongly advise Mr. Tallack to try, as this
season our Early Erfurt is all one could wish.
It is also known as Dwarf Erfurt, and is really a
splendid type of Cauliflower, not at all small for
private gardens. As regards marketing, I cannot
speak, but for earliness Early Erfurt is superior to
all others. I think there must be several varieties
of the Erfurt, as that I grow is large enough for
all purposes, short in stem, and with a very com-
pact flower or head ; whereas Mr. Tallack says va-
rieties of the Snowball type are generally too
small for market. This brings me to the cmestion
of synonyms, and to show how the Erfurt section
varies and is classed, I give the Chiswick classifi-
cation in full. Early Erfurt, Early Short-leaved
Erfurt, Dwarf Erfurt, Small leaved Dwarf Er-
furt, Earliest Dwarf Erfurt, Dwarf Mammoth Er-
furt, Snowball, Early Snowball, Early Taranto.
These are all classed together as one type and de-
scribed as follows : Plant dwarf, leaves small,
medium-sized heads, from (i inches to 12 inches in
diameter, frequently larger, close, pure white,
distinct, and the earliest variety. I should say
mine are labelled Dwarf Mammoth Erfurt and are
double the size named at this date (June IS). The
crop is nearly all cut, the plants being autumn
sown and wintered under hand glasses. Early
London is known under the following synonyms :
Stadtholder, Large Early, Second Early, and Middle
Late Dutch, and at Chiswick all these were, in my
opinion, inferior to the Erfurt as regards earli-

June 29, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

457

ness. Strange to say, the Walcheren is included
as synonymous with the Early London section ;
whereas my Walcheren is more compact, dwarfer,
and equally as early as Early London. The last
section is described as medium sized, tall, head
S inches to 12 inche< in diameter, solid, and of
excellent quality, but with the following addition,
the plants vary considerably, according to selec-
tion. My Walcheren is quite distinct from Early
London — doubtless a better selection. Selection
is an important point in vegetables of any kind, as
it takes years to get a true stock. Considerable
advance has been made by the introduction of
the early kinds, of which the Erfurt is the type.
The same remarks apply to the later section, such
as the Autumn (iiant and Autumn Mammoth
types, though I do not favour a huge, coarse
Cauliflower in any shape or form, nor am I in
favour of those small kinds which button prema-
turely. Doubtless it was these latter kinds Mr.
Tallack had in his mind when describing some as
too small. The true Erfurt section is large
enough for all purposes when well grown, and
Mr. Tallack should give it a trial if he can get a
good stock. I am sure he would find it useful
and reliable. Some twelve years ago I had a
wretched strain of Early London, and have not
grown it since. I expect this variety varies quite
as much now as then. Mr. Tallack may have a
good type, as he says it must be grown for its
earliness. I have had Erfurt sent for Walcheren,
and w"c< vend. <;- Wvtiies.

Turnip Orange Jelly. — "J. C." does well on
p. 421 to call attention to this Turnip. It is
quite one of the best for autumn and winter use.
At the Chrysanthemum show in Edinburgh at the
middle of November last year it was shown in
almost every collection of vegetables, and that is
saying much for it, as collections there are per-
haps more numerous than at any other autumn
show in the United Kingdom. The uniform size,
clear skin, and perfect shape of the Orange Jelly
Turnip much impressed me. — E. M.

Early Cabbages and other greens. — At
p. 39S "A. D."does well to point out the dearth
of greens or good Cabbages during May, and the
persistency with which market growers adhere to
the large, coarse varieties with much leaf that are
later than the small-hearted varieties. I suppose
it is difficult to get over the preference for mere
size in everything marketable, and thus the large
kinds are more grown. I know that retailers
have a decided preference for the large-leaved
Cabbage with a tie round them to make them
look presentable. A dearth of greens could
readily be prevented if more attention were paid
to the dates of sowing, planting out, and other
details, and many large growers could take a
lesson from private growers in this respect. I do
not see where the loss would come in by planting
small kinds, as so many can be grown on a small
space. Again, the new Kales of the Messrs.
Sutton would prove valuable market vegetables
in such severe winters ; their arctic Kales are
frostproof. Sown late they soon make good
plants. In seasons when there is plenty of Broc-
coli they may not be so acceptable, but then they
may be used before the Cabbage or Broccoli turn
in.— G. W. S.

Transplanting Parsley. — This is necessary
in order to ensure a plentiful supply during
autumn, and also to furnish roots for lifting in
October and planting in cold pits and frames for
winter supply. Where through absence of rain the
ground is hard and dry, a thorough soaking after
levelling and raking must be given. If a narrow
border slightly shaded by espalier trees can be
given, so much the better ; or if not, shading by
evergreen boughs must be resorted to. Use great
care in drawing out the young plants from the
seed rows and plant with a trowel, firming well and
afterwards watering home. In gardens where
wireworm is troublesome prick in some soot and
burnt refuse. Gas-lime must not be used where
planting has to be performed immediately.
Where a cool pit can be spared, a transplanting

into it may well be made, this of course doing
better as a rule than plants removed in autumn.
In transplanting Parsley in the open garden select
also a small square plot, over which a two or three-
light frame can be placed in November, as it
is next to impossible to have too much for
garnishing and general kitchen work during the
winter months. I always sow here about the
middle of July for a spring supply, protecting the
young plants in winter by a frame. This sowing
soon makes large fronds fit for use in spring,
whereas if sowing is deferred till March or April
the produce is not fit for use till midsummer.
Dobbie's Extra Curled Parsley and Veitch's Curled
are capital kinds. — J. C.

Lifting early Potatoes. — The earliest Ashleaf
Potatoes growing on south and other warm
borders if ripe may now be lifted and sor ed,
eatable tubers being stored in a cool dark place
and the seed treated similarly. Some advocate
leaving the tubers out in the open air for a week or
ten days to become green from the exposure to sun
and air, supposing that a more thorough ripen-
ing is thus effected and a stouter and better
start guaranteed in spring. I have tried this
plan and could never see any real difference be-
tween them and the tubers which were housed
as soon as dug. The ground hitherto occupied
by these early Potatoes may now be broken down,
and after having a good watering be utilised for
sowing Lettuce and other quick-growing, shallow-
rooting things, being then ready for such crops as
Coleworts at the end of August. — C. N.

Frost in Notts. — Last year we thought May
20 late for frost, that being the date of the disas-
trous one, which gardeners will long remember.
This year we escaped in May, only to have the
things cut down in June. On the night of Friday,
the 11th, frost of a severe nature visited this neigh-
bourhood, cutting down Potatoes, Scarlet Runners,
and Dahlias, and checking other tender crops.
Within a radius of eight miles 6°, 7°, and even 8 of
frost were registered, and on our own premises
ice could be found on gates and rails in early
morning. This is a very serious matter, and must
materially affect small market growers who de-
pend on their gardens for a living. Fortunately
our own garden lies rather high, and the soil is
dry and warm, thus we escaped the damage which
those around us received. It would interest me
to know if this frost was general. —J. C&AWFOBD,
Xi work.

TOMATO NOTES.

Are old or comparatively old varieties of Tomato
more subject to disease than those of recent intro-
duction ': This query, I think, many will answer
in the affirmative. My experience is decidedly in
favour of discarding the old sorts, as they are so
prone to disease in some of its many forms ; con-
sequently they are less productive, and the fruit
from these diseased plants is neither so well formed
nor good in flavour as from clean healthy plants.
Up to the present date (June IS) we should
naturally conclude that the season had been
specially favourable for Tomato culture under
glass, but, on the contrary, I never recollect so
many inquiries on how to conquer disease in dif-
ferent forms. The most general appears to be
Cladisporium f ulvum. Several old market growers
state they never had so violent an attack as this
year, and after trying various remedies (so-called)
have fallen back on the plan of removing the in-
fested foliage and encouraging new growth. The
black spot (Sporocybe lycopersici) is more than
usually in evidence in some gardens, but I believe
this may be practically ousted by keeping the
hot-water pipes warm on dull or cold days,
also at night, and maintaining a dry, warm
buoyant atmosphere in the house continually,
which will do much to keep the cladisporium in
check as well. Another disease that is more diffi-
cult to deal with is the one that suddenly attacks
a healthy-looking plant, and in a few hours the
foliage droops and the plant is completely done
for. I had a few plants this spring thus attacked.

These were at once pulled out and burnt, and
no further signs of the disease have appeared. One
cause of disease not sufficiently known is, I think,
that of sudden changes from dryness to wetness
at the roots. Plants in pots or in shallow borders
when full of vigour absorb a great quantity of
moisture and quickly become dry at the roots,
unless given close attention, which is not always
possible in these days of reduced hands ; and,
judging from close observation, the repeated
changes from dryness to the reverse are prime
causes of disease. The white fly (Aleyrodes
vaporariorum) is occasionally very troublesome,
messing the fruit and materially weakening the
plants. Fortunately this pest is easily destroyed,
the recipe for which I am indebted to Mr. Iggul-
den, who stated in one of the horticultural papers
(I forget which) some six or seven years ago that
flowers of sulphur mixed with milk and painted on
the hot-water pipes would effect a cure. I imme-
diately put the advice in practice, with such ex-
cellent results that no white fly has appeared since.

Many Tomato growers consider that natural
manures promote a growth that is liable to attacks
of disease more readily than plants fed with chemi-
cal fertilisers, and I believe they are correct as
proved from actual experience. Unfortunately,
many gardeners are unable to obtain these chemical
fertilisers, as some employers object to purchasing
the same while there is plenty of natural manure
to hand ; consequently one lias to mike the best
use of the materials at disposal. On a light soil
I can strongly recommend the following mixture
as a really good manure for Tomatoes : 1 lb. of
nitrate of soda, 1 lb. of muriate of potash, or
failing that .'1 lb. of kainit and 3 lb. of super-
phosphate, mixing the whole thoroughly together
and applying at the rate of 1 oz. to each super
yard of border, taking care that none of the mix-
ture falls on the foliage or fruit, as it is apt to
scald either if it falls thereon. The above dress-
ing ma3' be given about once a fortnight to plants
in full bearing. The effect will not be so apparent
in the growth as in the rapid swelling and size of
the fruit, together with the free setting of the
trusses as they form on the plants. Fish guano is
another good manure, giving satisfactory results,
but has not such a weight-giving effect on the
fruit as the preparation named. Amongst natural
manures the liquid made from sheep manure has
few if any superiors, as it is a reliable fertiliser
without the burning character of the draininge
from stables or cattle sheds. Pig manure is strong,
but on the only occasion in which I employed it as
a mulch I found that a quantity of the plants
died from the attack of an insect at the roots re-
sembling eel-worms, which no doubt bred in the
manure, as I have had no similar attacks before or
since. Amongst new or comparatively new
Tomatoes that are cropping freely with no signs
of any disease the undermentioned are the best.
Early Ruby is a very early sort, the plants com-
mencing to fruit almost close to the soil, and the
produce ripening about a fortnight before any
other variety sown at the same time and grown
under exactly similar conditions. Some of the fruit
is of very good shape, while others are corrugated,
but for home use or market it is valuable for its
prolific habit and earliness. A variety that I
received from Messrs. J. Carter and Co. named
Canadian Express is the most profuse cropper that
I have grown ; it follows Early Ruby in ripening
its fruit, which is large, slightly corrugated, and
on light soil the trusses are borne in such pro-
fusion that they overlap each other on the plants.
Frogmore Selected follows the above in ripening,
but I must admit being disappointed with this
variety ; it may be that the soil or my mode of
culture is unsuitable. Whatever the cause is the
plants are not sufficiently fruitful to warrant my
growing it another season. Duke of York was
only a day behind the last-named in ripening its
fruit, and what a grand fruit it is ; the shape,
colour, weight and general appearance are so good
that a fruiterer who purchases largely informed me
that he would give a penny per pound more for
Duke of York than any other variety I sent him.
In addition to the good points named it is also an

458

THE GARDEN

[June 29, 1895.

excellent bearer. Polegate is another fine main
crop variety, possessing a short-jointed sturdy
habit, well set with moderately sized trusses of
fruit, and I think likely to become a reliable
market sort. Carter's Market Favourite is a
variety that I have not grown, but when at Main-
diff Court Gardens, Abergavenny, recently I saw
it in splendid form, the plants being covered with
handsome fruit of a size very suitable for market.
Mr. J. Nowell. who has charge of those gardens,
states that it is one of the most profitable
Tomatoes in cultivation when done well, and
judging from the appearance of his plants they
confirm his statement. W. G. C.

Pea Criterion.— This fine Pea fully deserves
all the praise that has from time to time been
given it. It is the summer Ne Plus Ultra, grow-
ing and yielding well in hot weather and on sandy
soils. The colour and flavour are irreproachable,
and it continues to bloom and pod over a long
period. Criterion ought certainly to be grown
by all to whom quantity and quality combined are
an object. — J. Crawford.

The Pea crops.— The present season is an
unfavourable one for Pea growers for market.
The early spring was so unfavourable that the
earliest crops were kept back, while the second
sowings, influenced by the protracted drought,
did not grow to their normal height, and are
podding almost simultaneously with the first
sown lots. Thus the markets are glutted for a
short time, prices rule low, leaving but little
profit for the grower after deducting rent and
labour. Even on cool, moist lands Peas look
yellow and unhealthy on account of the cold winds,
which have prevailed at intervals for many weeks.
Pea growing for profit now-a-days is much more
uncertain than formerly, when heavy crops not
only paid the grower, but found lucrative employ-
ment for many poor people. — J. C.

Early Cauliflowers.— I was always under the
impression, and which appears also to be the
opinion of Mr. J. C. Tallack (p. 421), that Early
London is an earlier Cauliflower than Walcheren.
Judge, therefore, my surprise in looking over the
report of the trial of Cauliflowers at Chiswick last
year and published in the last volume of the
Royal Horticultural Society's Journal, that Early
London and Walcheren are given as synonymous.
The Walcheren as grown by me is certainly a
little later, although this season not to such a
marked extent as other years during duller and
moister weather The leaves have a more curled
appearance, and it is also a better hot weather
Cauliflower than Early London. Possibly some
other correspondents can give a little explanation.
Autumn-sown Cauliflowers have turned out capi-
tal this season, and certainly in advance of any
sown at the turn of the year. The plants are
altogether stronger and better able to withstand
the dry and hot season. Plants raised from seed
sown early in the year require a lot of looking
after, and I cannot see where the saving comes
in either of labour or time as some people suppose
there is over autumn-sown plants. — A. Young.

Radishes during hot weather. — Where a
supply of Radishes has to be maintained through-
out the summer and autumn months there is
often a difficulty in keeping it up during a hot
and dry season. Grown on poor soil and in too
exposed a position Radishes are tough and hot.
Having a regular supply to keep up I give a
little more attention than ordinarily bestowed on
Radishes. Too much rank manure is not good for
them, the quality not being nearly so good as
from a bed which is mainly composed of rich soil.
An east border is the best position for summer
and autumn Radishes. How I manage is to
prepare a good heap of old potting soil, burnt
refuse, leaf-soil, and some spent Mushroom bed
manure, the whole being spread to the depth of
3 inches over the extent of border to be devoted
to this crop for a season. The seeds should be
sown thinly in drills, and during dry weather be
kept well watered. Manure water should not be
used. There should be no set time to finish sow-

ing in the open. Last year, on account of the
weather being mild up till Christmas, we had
daily supplies from the open air till that period.
— A. Young.

Trees and Shrubs.

LEMOINE'S NEW PHILADELPHUS.
A raw years ago we looked upon the little Phila-
delphus microphyllus from Colorado as being quite
an exceptional addition to a genus which abounds in
so-called species and varieties too much alike. P.
microphyllus is a pigmy compared to any of the
others and itscrowdsof white blossomshave not that
heavy, and to some disagreeable, odour which most
Mock Oranges possess. It could not have been long
after this little plant was first brought to Europe
before that keen hybridist, M. Lemoine, of Nancy,
secured it for operating upon, for we see to-day,
in the beautiful hybrids that he has given us, how
prompt he must have been. He, no doubt, saw
that by mingling the dwarf and free-flowering habit
of P. microphyllus with that of the tall, larger-
flowered species like the common P. coronarius, a
beautiful progeny would be the result, as most
certainly it is. The three or four hybrids that I
have just seen for the first time are a revelation
to me. They are all much alike, so that one
description will apply to all. The growth is erect,
remarkably so, and each shoot is wreathed with
pure white blossoms as large as those of the com-
mon Mock Orange from the base to the tips of
the shoots, which are from 2 feet to 3 feet high. I
have only seen the plants in the collection at
Kew, but I do not see any marked difference
between those named Lemoinei, Lemoinei erectus,
Gerbe de Neige, Boule d'Argent, and Candelabra,
though these may, of course, be quite distinct
when more established. In great perfection may
be seen a mass 10 feet through of P. Lemoinei
in the arboretum. Every shoot is a sheaf of white
bloom and buds, with just sufficient foliage to
serve as a foil. One can see the mass of white
100 yards off, and near it there is a soft and
exquisite odour like that of a passing barrowful
of Pine-apples. It is the most glorious new small
shrub I have seen for years and is sure to become
popular. It lasts a long time in bloom, for weeks,
I might sa}-, is not particular about soil or site,
and has not flinched, I am told, under the cold of
the last arctic winter. Those who love hardy
flowers should see this new-comer and the hosts
of beautiful plants that make Kew so full of in-
terest just now to those who have eyes to see and
hearts to appreciate and enjoy.
Kew. W. Goldring.

Erica ciliaris alba.— This dwarf growing
hardy Heath, just now giving a profusion of its
pure white blossoms, is very showy, and deserving
of extended cultivation where the natural soil is
favourable to its growth. Around the edge of a
Rhododendron bed or border or at the foot of tall
growing Kalmias is a suitable site for planting it.
Like the bulk of low-growing Heaths, this is
easily increased by dividing the roots in early
spring. — E.

Pterocarya caucasica. — We have a very fine
specimen of this tree, and though not reaching
the dimensions named by Mr. Burrell, it makes
equally rapid growth. Some young trees planted
a few years ago are now telling objects in the
landscape, and I am surprised this beautiful
tree is so uncommon, as it does so well in a fog
or smoke-laden atmosphere. I carefully read
the note alluded to on p. 424 to see if the fine
specimen named was near water, as this tree
delights in a moist situation, being a gross feeder.
Ours is partially in water, and throws up a great
number of suckers. I can well understand the
roots going in search of food and moisture, as the
great amount of foliage must require a lot of sup-
port. I cannot reply to Mr. Burrell's query as to
its behaviour in its natural habitat, but it cer-

tainly is fond of moisture. Apparently in this
country the tree grows quite as large as in the
Caucasian range. Its height there is given as 20
feet to 40 feet. Our tree is taller, very healthy,
and one of the most ornamental. — G. Wythes.

The Guelder Rose as a water plant.—
Though the common Guelder Rose, or well named
Snowball Tree (Viburnum Opulus), is also known
as the Water or Marsh Elder, yet it is seldom that-
one meets with it grown in lakes or streams. I
found, however, a fine specimen the other day
growing and blooming most profusely in a small
lake of very cold spring water. The plant was
almost 6 feet high and looked as much through,
the very picture of health, and smothered with
its flower snowballs. In this lake was a small
island, and this fine plant was so low down on one
side of the latter as to be inaccessible either from
the island or the mainland. It was seen in the
first week of June, and its roots had evidently
been submerged all winter, possibly for years,
as the second peculiarity of the spring that fur-
nishes the lake is that the supply of water is as
constant as it is cold. Perhaps some readers of
The Garden will give their observations and ex-
perience as to the growth of other species of
Guelder Roses in water, such as the common
Wayfaring Tree (Viburnum Lantana), whose
green leaves glow with a deep red or fiery scarlet
in the autumn, and the American Wayfaring
Tree (V. lantanoides), with finer foliage, fruit,
and berries than the British Wayfaring Tree.
Other species worth trying in water, wet
places, or swamps would be the Sheep Berry
or Sweet Viburnum, V. Lentago, V. Fortuneior
macrocephalum, with large flowers and leaves,
and the variegated-leaved and other varieties of
the common Guelder Rose (V. Opulus). The V.
odoratissimum is said to have the scent of Olea
f ragrans, and if so deserves the best place that
can be found for it in the choicest garden or
shrubbery or cool greenhouse, as it is little more
than half-hardy. V. plieatum, though fairly
hardy, is also invaluable in pots for anticipating
in cool conservatories the beauty of the Guelder
Roses.— D. T. F.

Garden Flora.

PLATE 1020

NEW SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

(WITII A COLOURED PLATE OF C. PURITY AND
C. DISTINCTION.*)

The coloured plate shows two new single varie-
ties raised by me at the Earlswood Nurseries,
Kedhill, Surrey. Purity was distributed in
1893 and 1894, when I predicted it would be-
come one of the most popular varieties. Last
autumn it was awarded four first class certificates
and was exhibited in nearly every collection of
singles at the various shows. Distinction is
really better than Purity, having bold thick
broader florets and the colour is very rich. Un-
fortunately, up to the present the old stool of
last year, although it still retains the foliage,
has not furnished a cutting. Should it persist
in this character, one of the very best single
kinds ever seen will be useless for gardens.
Single Chrysanthemums are so useful for de-
coration as cut flowers, that it is no wonder they
are beginning to be cultivated to some consider-
able extent. They furnish nearly every colour for
the dull winter months that the Shirley and
Iceland Poppies, Gaillardias, Harpaliums and
Marguerites supply in the summer. They
do not require disbudding, for their chief beauty
is in their graceful sprays. Some varieties can
be cut with stems 2 feet long bearing flowers

* Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon, in the
Earlswood Nurseries, Redliill, Dec. 4. 1894. Litho-
graphed and printed by Guillaume Severeyns.

7

*

June 29, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

459

their whole length, and if the old stems are
left they throw out a number of small shoots
below which give a succession of flowers on to
February. Some of the best small flowering
varieties are Scarlet Gem ; Miss Mary Anderson,
white ; Treasure, yellow ; Emily Wells, pink ;
Earlswood Terra-cotta, and Golden Bronze.
Of the larger flowering and medium sized, there
is a great choice. Rev. W. E. Renfrey, May-
blossom, Foxhunter and Charman's Joy are
scarlet or crimson ; Nora, Mrs. D. B. Crane,
Miss Grace Rennie and Rose Pink are all pink ;
whilst Purity, Lizzie Mainwaring, Virgin Queen,
Jane in whites, and Admiral Sir T. Symonds,
Arthur Home and Distinction in yellow ; with
Earlswood Terra-cotta, ^Esthetic, Lady Church-
ill and Salmon as a selection of the best. For
pot plants the best are Miss Rose, Scarlet Gem,
Gus Harris, Earlswood Terra-cotta, and Miss
Mary Anderson. These should be rooted in
March, pinched twice, and then grown on
in 5-inch or C-inch pots. The general col-
lection for cutting in sprays should be propa-
gated in January or February, pinching twice
and allowing ten or twelve shoots to grow to
each plant. They like good rich soil as well as the
general collection of Japanese and incurved,
but they need not be attended to so closely.
I generally put one stake to each plant and loop
the branches to it. W, Wells.

The Week's Work.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
General routine work. — The past few weeks,
owing to absence of rain and frequent parch-
ing winds, have afforded an opportunity of
thoroughly eradicating weeds amongst all growing
crops. Where rain has fallen, no time must be
lo9t in going through all growing crops now in
their infancy and hand-weeding the rows or beds.
Seedling Nettles are a pest in some gardens, and
unless kept under soon choke and spoil the plants.
Onions, Beet, Parsnips, Salsafy, and Scorzonera,
also seed beds of very early Endive, come espe-
cially under this heading.

Mulching. — 1 have already advised this in the
case of earlier crops of Peas, Beans, and kindred
subjects, successional crops must now have atten-
tion in this matter. All have not time for this
work, but the practice is beneficial from every
point of view. In many gardens where vegetables
are forced on hotbeds ample material for mulch-
ing purposes will now be obtainable, and nothing
forms a better mulch than old, exhausted forcing
beds, and there is always a certain amount of
nourishment left in the material to be washed
down to assist the roots. Peas, Broad and even
French Beans, beds of early Seakale for forcing in
November, Scarlet Runners, and even spring-sown
and Tripoli Onions respond quickly to a mulch-
ing, the same retaining the moisture communi-
cated by rain and preventing undue evaporation.
While dry weather continues, a good soaking
once a week or ten days may, where practicable,
be given. The use also of artificial manure pre-
vious to watering not only aids growth, but like-
wisa enriches the ground in readiness for other
crops which are to follow these impoverishing
ones. Later batches of Spinach as soon as a few
inches high enjoy a good mulch as much as any-
thing.

Latest winter greens. — In many places gar-
deners are not able to get out their final plantings
of late Broccoli, Kales, and other late winter and
spring subjects as soon as they would like, owing
to the ground being occupied with other crops.
Now, however, all speed must be made, as if the
plants in the seed beds are becoming large and
crowded, a free, vigorous growth after transplant-
ing cannot be expected. Saturate the soil the
day previous to drawing out the young plants, or

many of the best fibrou3 roots will be broken.
Draw out good deep drills and soak these also at
the same time. Refrain from pulling many
plants at a time, placing them in a sieve or basket
and covering with a Rhubarb leaf, finally watering
home and drawing a little soil from the sides of
the drill around the stems of the plants to prevent
undue evaporation. If a little rough material can
be spread between the rows and round the plants,
as recommended for the Seakale and other crops,
so much the better. Be sure to plant plenty of
the Kales, both Scotch, tall and dwarf, and As-
paragus, as these are practically frost-proof and
continue to throw outside sprouts from the stems
until the earliest Cabbages come in in April or
May. Ragged Jack, commonly grown in the open
fields, is also most useful in spring and makes a
pleasant change in the dining room. All the
foregoing are best put out on firm soils from which
other crops, not of the same nature, have recently
been cleared. If too hard for the dibble, a crow-
bar may be used. Another and final planting of
Savoys may also be made, but as an exposed
situation and dry root run often cause these to
heart in before wanted, a north border should, if
possible, be selected and a good quantity of rich
manure incorporated, firming well before planting.
The old Drumhead variety is unsurpassed for this last
batch, taking longer to arrive at maturity and not
so liable to rot from excessive rains and frosts, its
leaves overlapping one another in such a manner
as to protect the centres. If Chou de Burghley
was sown as recommended at the beginning of
May, the plants will now be ready for moving.
If put out in rich soil, Chou de Burghley is a most
delicious vegetable. Plant as for Kales, allowing
2 feet between the plants and the same between
the rows. Prick the small plants out in a moist
rich bed and plant out in three weeks' time to give
a succession. Chou de Burghley is quite hardy,
late plants making headway even in frosty
weather.

Latest Broccoli. — As second early Peas and
Potatoes are cleared off, such valuable late varieties
of Broccoli as Model, Late Queen and Methven's
June should be transplanted. The same hard
root-run is advisable, a small basin being after-
wards made round the base of each to hold water.
If the ground is not in extra good heart a good
broad-cast sowing of some approved fertiliser may
be given as soon as growth is visible, and again
say in a month's time.

Salting Asparagus beds. — The present time
is opportune for giving a second dressing of salt
to the surface of Asparagus beds, not altogether
as a manurial agent, but as a weed destroyer. If
there is any Twitch growing in the beds, the best
— and indeed only effectual — way of removing it
is by the use of small hand-forks ; the roots are
then extracted and further growth prevented.
If my advice respecting Asparagus beds given in
April was followed, and a mulch of short manure
given to those composed of sandy soil and resting
on a gravel subsoil, a little artificial manure should
be mixed with the salt and afterwards worked in
amongst the manure with a rake. It will then
be ready for washing down to the roots as soon as
rain comes. Much may be done between now and
the period when the stems begin to turn yellow
towards encouraging strong crowns and a multi-
plicity of roots near the surface, the best and
indeed only guarantee for a productive crop next
season. Where beds exist in low situations not
over well drained, the use of salt, except in ex-
ceptional dry seasons, is not advisable; hand-
weeding must in such cases be resorted to. See
that the grass from young plants in newly-planted
beds is supported by small stakes, or high winds
may break it down and a weak stool follow next
year. Assist also these young beds with liquid
manure.

Beans in cold frames. — These, where planted
out at the time advised, will now be in flower,
and good treatment must be accorded, or the end
in view will be defeated. I do not hold with the
common practice of allowing the rows to fall one
against the other. Rather support them by means
of short, stout sprigs. The air and sun will

then penetrate to the interior, and not only a
more abundant crop, but one of better quality
will ensue. The roots also must not lack
moisture or nourishment, especially just at the
setting period, an 1 no oid pods must remain on
to use up the vital force of the plants. Overhead
waterings are of great help to French Beans,
these being given liberally at eventide, so that
the foliage may be enabled to recoup itself after
the strain put upon it by hot sun and parching
winds. I still find Syon House capital for cool
frame work, also Negro Longpod and Canadian
Wonder to follow.

Celery maggot. — Owing to a parched state
of the atmosphere the Celery fly will be liable to
abound early this season. A sharp watch must be
continually kept, and on the first appearance of
leaf-disfiguration hand-picking must be resorted
to, as there is no other remedy, the maggot being
between the tissues of the leaf and away from the
reach of any insecticide. Occasional sprinklings
of soot may, however, ward off the attacks of fly.

J. Crawford.

FRUIT HOUSE?.

Early Peaches.— The fruits will now be gathered
from trees in early houses, and should red spider
have obtained a foothold on the trees during the
ripening period, take special precautions to get
rid of the pest now. The weather during the
past few weeks has encouraged insect pests, it
having been necessary to keep the house dry. To
get rid of spider the best remedy is abundant
syringing night and morning, but even this is
not always sufficient. W7ith dirty trees a dress-
ing of soft soap, sulphur, and rain water will be
best, well covering the affected portions and
syringing freely daily from the third day after
applying the dressing. It is also well to place a
little sulphur in the water occasionally when
syringing in the evening. The roots will also be
in condition to receive copious supplies of mois-
ture, and in case the mulch given before the fruits
coloured is absorbed, a renewed mulch now will
assist root action, keep top-growth clean, and
save labour. Give the trees abundance of air, and
get the wood as matured as possible, as the more
the wood is ripened the better next season's crop.
Peaches and Nectarines of ten suffer after the fruits
are cleared, not being given sufficient water. Now
is the time to secure good fruiting wood for next
season and prevent bud-dropping, so troublesome
with early trees. Although I have advised
abundant supplies of air, hard forced houses
should not be thrown open all at once, but gradu-
ally increase the supply of air after the gathering
is over. With trees not in a robust condition it is
well to allow a little warmth in the pipes in dull
weather ; this keeps them moving freely and the
wood gets better ripened.

Summer-pruning of Peaches. — Much may be
done now in the way of pruning the early forced
trees, and these remarks will apply to those in
succession houses as well. By pruning now the
main growths will get more room to develop, and
the fruiting wood for next season can be more
carefully attended to. All wood, or nearly all,
which has borne fruit may be cut back to the
young growth at the base of the shoot which was
laid in. A lot more room is thus obtained, and it
can readil3- be seen how much wood will be
wanted to furnish the trees, whilst by regulating
the shoots the syringe can readily wet all parts of
the trees. As young trees often make much
wood, there is no better mears of removing any
useless growths than by summer-pruning. As
soon as the pruning is completed, fire-heat may be
dispensed with should the wood be well developed,
and the house thrown open to harden the growths.
Young trees when tied to the trellis in the winter
are often given too little room. Now is a suitable
time to give the trees more freedom, loosening
ties, and thus preventing gumming and canker,
which closely follow restricted growth or damaged
bark. In pruning young trees, use the knife
sparingly if there is ample room for extension, as

460

THE GARDEN

[June 29, 1895.

a large space may soon be covered, and the
lateral growths springing from the main branches
may be turned into good fruiting wood for the
next season.

Succession Peach bouses. — The fruits will be
ripening, and with abundance of sun-heat very
little fire-heat will be required. Peaches given free
ventilation are of superior flavour to those grown
in a moist, warm temperature. With more air it
is well to give moisture freely, and although
trees cannot be syringed overhead, all parts of
the house can be moistened, as a certain amount
of moisture is necessary to get perfect fruits and
high colour. The stems of the trees may be
damped daily, and any portion of the trees not
covered with fruit may be syringed freely. In a
previous calendar I noted the importance of going
over the trees daily, removing the ripe fruits
early in the day, this being much better than
allowing an}' to fall into nets. There is no fear of
damage by gathering carefully, and such fruits
may be kept good for days in a cool, airy room.
Fruits to be sent any distance should not be
allowed to get fully ripe, as their weight when
travelling — no matter how well packed — bruises
the fruits. Trees that are dry at the roots should
be given sufficient water to tide them over the
ripening stage, and when cleared should be treated
as advised for earlier houses, giving a good dress-
ing of manure or liquids to those much exhausted
after carrying heavy crops.

Late houses. — The trees are more forward than
usual and I have dispensed with fire-heat. At
the same time a little extra care is necessary in
changeable weather, to ensure the fruits swelling
freely. Syringing late trees is necessary twice
daily, and there is no excuse for dirty foliage in
late houses that can have ample supplies of water
in all parts. Feeding and mulching are equally
important, as the roots soon dry at this season.
The fruits should be freely exposed by removal of
leaves or useless shoots to get the high colour so
desirable, and the final thinning should not be
deferred, as all fruits should now finish well. A
good mulch of rich manure will assist in finishing
up the crop, but if delayed the fruits reap little
benefit and a late growth results, which does not
ripen well. Remove any useless laterals that are
not required. Young trees should be allowed free
extension of branches, as advised for mid-season
trees, and crowding avoided.

The orchard house. — Much the same routine
is necessary with trees in pots as advised for trees
planted out, but more care is necessary in watering
and securing firm sturdy growths for next season.
Mulching must be regularly attended to, as the
mulch frequently gets washed away with repeated
waterings. A good mulch at this season is horse
droppings that have slightly heated, with a
liberal dressing of bone meal or other good ferti-
liser given on the surface before the mulch is
applied. The waterings, so necessary for pot
trees, will soon absorb the food from the manure,
and by keeping the surface cool plenty of top
roots will be made. In addition to the food ad-
vised, it is well to water frequently with liquid
manure, and if a bag of soot can be immersed it is
of great help in keeping the trees in a vigorous
state. The syringe must not be spared, with ample
supplies of air. Pinching and regulating the
wood will still be important, as the trees laden
with fruit have a great demand upon them, so
that it is well to remove wood not required.
Trees that have borne a crop and are well furnished
with clean healthy wood may be removed into the
open, plunging well over the rims of the pots,
damping overhead daily when the sun leaves the
trees, with ample supplies of moisture. Cherries
and other early fruits are much benefited by re-
moval if due attention is paid to the roots, and in
the case of Peaches or Nectarines, give abundance
of air to these trees as the fruits mature. Trees
in the open grown this season specially for house
culture next year will well repay liberal treatment
to get strong well-ripened wood, stopping the
shoots except extensions at the sixth leaf and
pinching any lateral growth hard back. Feed
freely and mulch over the surface. Now is a good

time to remove Pears, especially the early varie-
ties, to warm sunny borders, taking care the roots
are not exposed to the rays of the sun. The same
remarks apply to Plums, except the late varie-
ties, which should be kept under glass. A general
overhauling of trees in this house will be bene-
ficial, as many will now require cooler treatment
and benefit by open-air exposure. Peaches and
Nectarines where repotting is required may be
prepared for the same by free exposure, and when
the new wood is well matured a shift may be given
into larger pots, but it is well to keep the trees
under cover till the new roots reach the sides of
the pots, when they may be removed into a south
or west border, plunged, and the surface soil
covered with a mulch of strawy litter, the trees
being syringed daily and watered carefully till
the pots are full of roots. In potting use a good
calcareous loam, old lime rubble (a liberal propor-
tion of bone-meal if a large shift is not given) and
ample drainage. Trees not requiring a shift
should be liberally fed after the crop is cleared,
and if the wood is matured they may be placed in
the open and syringed daily in the evening.

G. Wythes.

TABLE DECORATIONS.

Will some leader of The Garden kindly give
a few hints as to table decoration ? I should be
glad to know how to arrange flowers and Ferns
on a dinner table. — F. Thomas.

*#* " F. T." having adopted this term rather
than the far wider one of " arrangement of cut
flowers," the remarks that follow will bear more
particularly in the direction of the former head-
ing. It is a very wide subject upon which to
treat, for what prevails in one establishment
may not in another. Both the selection of ma-
terial and the choice of vases will vary greatly.
A decided improvement has been manifested
in table decorations during the past few years.
There are some of whom it must be stated that
they will apparently never learn what lines to
follow. There is plenty of opportunities at
the present day both for taking notes and for
impressing upon the mind the most tasteful
styles of arrangement. For this we are greatly
indebted to the encouragement given by the
most noteworthy of the horticultural societies
at their shows. At these exhibitions there are
nearly always sufficient examples of tasteful
arrangements as well as of those quite the
reverse, so that comparisons can easily be made.
Many very beautiful designs are to be seen in
the shops of the best florists who make cu
flowers a speciality, but these have more par
ticular reference to other than table decorations

Flowers and Ferns.

I note that "F. T." makes use of these
words ; a few comments thereon may not there-
fore be out of place. At one time — and that
not so very many years back — it was thought
quite the correct thing to use Fern fronds (more
particularly those of the Maiden-hair) with
flowers, be the latter what they may. This
custom has been broken through, I am glad to
say. I have not the least objection to this
beautiful Fern, but its use with all kinds of
flowers is quite out of place. In the similar
way that rich food will cloy the palate, so will
Maiden-hair Fern the sight if it be used indis-
criminately. No one of taste would now think
of letting the Maiden-hair entirely supplant the
foliage of the Rose when Roses are being used.
A frond or two here and there would aid in the
effect, but let the foliage of the Rose pre-
dominate. This may be accepted as a general
rule — wherever possible rely upon the foliage of
the plant to accompany its flowers. For in-
stance, 1 will quote the Daffodils; with these

use their own foliage most decidedly ; the Lily
of the Valley and its own leaves ; the Water
Lily and its foliage, or some other resembling
it ; the Gardenia and its own sprigs, with
several leaves upon them, cannot be surpassed ;
the Tulip, with its own leaves ; the Roman
Hyacinth, of which the most suitable leaves-
are those fully developed, the spikes being
often cut whilst the foliage is still too
short ; with the Eucharis either use small
leaves of the plant itself, or such as those of
the green-leaved Aspidistra ; with the Camellia,
its own foliage most decidedly (what can sur-
pass it 1 ) ; the Tuberose in vases looks best
with its own or similar foliage ; if Chinese
Primulas are being used, let their own leaves
be used also here and there. But some may
say, " What about Orchids ? Is it advisable
to use their own leaves ? " No, most decidedly
not, but there are other kinds of foliage which
may be used. From the stove there are the
leaves of Caladium argyrites and other kinds ;
those of Fittonia argyroneura (shoots rather
than leaves) ; Cyrtodeira metallica, the shoots
of which look very beautiful with light-coloured-
Orchids ; Panicum variegatum, of which long
sprays are the best ; Asparagus plumosus, either
as plumose sprays or long trailing shoots ;
Myrsiphyllum asparagoides as sprays also (a.
cooler house will suit this) ; Cissus discolor in
sprays, fairly well matured, beautiful with
Cattleyas. From out of doors can be taken
the shoots of such hardy plants as Acer palma-
tum, whilst growths of the hardy Panicums
may be quoted as examples amongst Grasses.
From amongst Ferns themselves there is a wide
field of choice. Take, for instance, the Daval-
lias, which are of most diverse character, nearly
every one lasting exceedingly well in a cut
state, several of the Aspleniums, the Nephro-
lepises, the larger Adiantums, the Pterises, and
the Gymnogrammas — all of these will serve a
good purpose. Omission should not be made
of the Rex type of Begonias, nor of such species
as B. metallica. Although these instances have
been quoted with more particular reference to
Orchids, they are quite as applicable to other
flowers when " suitable."

Suitability of Foliage to Flowers.

Some idea of this may be gathered from what
has already been written ; there is, however, a,
kind of affinity distinguishable in many in-
stances. Lilies and Grasses associate well to-
gether. Take as a case in point two varieties
of Lilium lancifolium, or one only for aught it
matters, and as additional foliage use the shoots
of Eulalia japonica or Elymus glaucifolius. A
centre-piece arranged with these alone and a
trailer around the stem, with a few more shoots
springing from its base, amongst which might
nestle a few flowers of Eucharis or of Pancra-
tium, a few bolder leaves resting upon the
cloth as a finish. Supposing it to be the spring
season with the Spanish Squills in flower
(Scilla campanulata), with one or more colours
of these a few shoots of the common Ribbon
Grass would look well amongst the spikes.
The bronzy foliage or shoots of some of the Tea
Roses cannot be surpassed with the yellow and
other soft shades of colour to be found in their
own particular section. To enumerate lurther
under this head is scarcely necessary; many
other examples will suggest themselves at
various seasons of the year. Again, there is
the Chrysanthemum, for which scarcely any-
thing more suitable could be chosen outside of
its own genus than the shoots of Mahonia aqui-
folia. If the flowers of the Chrysanthemum be
either yellow, or in its shades merging into
bronze, or white, or any other light colour,

June 29, 1895.J

THE GARDEN

461

take the bronzy-tinted shont3 ; if the colours be
brighter, then use the green shoots.

Arrangement of the Flowers.

Under this heading I shall at once condemn
the evil of overcrowding ; it still prevails, but
not to the same extent as it used to do. One
most fertile source of overcrowding arises from
the use of flowers with too short stems. This is
a common mistake made when cutting them,
caused often perhaps by the gatherer not being
the arranger. It may be said against long stems
that it is often a waste to cut such, but if half
as many in quantity will suffice with long stems
(which they will in many instances), where does
the waste come in ? It is rather the reverse
than otherwise. In the arrangement itself
always endeavour to secure a light and graceful
effect. If the thought should arise that too
many flowers have been used, reduce the
quantity and test the result of doing so. In
most instances a groundwork of foliage is needed
to start with. This is more essential if it be a
stand with a broad base resting upon the cloth,
upon which some of the flowers must of a
necessity repose. An epergne with a tall stem
requires first to be furnished with drooping
foliage, and flowers too, if they are to hand.
Afterwards add both foliage and flowers in
unison, not all the flowers first, or rice versa,
•otherwise the proper balance of one to the other
cannot be attained. I have often seen the
flowers crowded together first, touching one
another in fact; then to remedy this some
Maiden- hair Fern fronds or Grasses or lighter
flowers would be added to lighten the appear-
ance, which if arranged in a more natural
manner would never be too heavy. This pro-
cess of lightening is absurdity itself.

Formality in Arrangements

is another and a frequent mistake. The as-
sumption that each particular flower of any
given kind (be it what it may) must each have
the same length of stem or be used at set dis-
tances apart, as if mathematical precision was
the prime object, should not for one moment
obtain ; if this be countenanced there is an end
to the tasteful disposal of flowers at once, and
it is merely a matter of detail. To first use all
the flowers with short stems and then dot
others over them in a methodical fashion is
also wrong ; the reverse mode of procedure is
infinitely better, but a combination of the two
is the best plan to adopt. In making a bou-
quet of the all-round shape, the centre is the
starting point. Let the same method be fol-
lowed in arranging either tall vases or cornu-
copias or bases resting upon the cloth, and a
better result will be secured. It is often other-
wise, however, the starting point being the
outer edge, with possibly just so many flowers
of this and the same of that, these probably
being inserted alternately.

The Mixture of Colours

is the point where many fail ; in this respect it
is very easy indeed to make a mistake. By all
means avoid violent contrasts ; scarlet and
white, red and yellow, are sufficient to illus-
trate this. The judicious combinations of
shades of one particular colour, such as the
yellows, in which there is a great variety,
•one blending harmoniously with another, must
be studied. The same occurs in the pinks
as they merge into the rosy or red shades.
With white flowers it is better to use soft
colours rather than brilliant ones. The condi-
tions under which a table is being decorated
must also be studied ; the colour of other things
besides flowers has to be considered ; so also

has the light. On the whole, the less use that
is made of mixtures the better will be the re-
sult. One colour should prevail above others
also, for if two colours in about equal quanti-
ties be used there is a want of decisive effect.
Two or more shades of one colour, and of one
particular flower, taking the Rose as a case in
point or the Sweet Pea, are most commendable ;
this tends towards simplicity, which is always
desirable. Between some flowers and others
there is a close affinity, although not of the
same family ; thus stellate or star -shaped
flowers blend well together. On the other
hand, double and single flowers should be
avoided in mixtures as far as possible. Roses
with Marguerites is given as an instance of this
incongruity. Single Roses look charming with
Water Lilies, and so do Forget-me-nots.

The Selection of Vases

is not in every case that of the best, but it wil
be a difficult case indeed if the arrangements
cannot be adapted to the circumstances. Vases
which obstruct the view at the line of sight are
not desirable ; those with a proportionately
broad base and a slender stem are easy to
arrange, so as to avoid this defect. Slender
stems with heavy tops should be of sufficient
height to prevent any obstruction of the view.
Nothing amongst colours in glass is better, or
even equal to, the plain or natural colour, whilst
ornamental vases, which are as ornaments suffi-
cient of themselves, have to be arranged very
judiciously, otherwise their beauty will be
hidden. Where possible such vases as these
are better adapted to plants than to cut flowers.
Uniformity in either height or size is most un-
desirable ; the centre-piece should be larger in
every sense than the rest and its view should
not be intercepted by the others. In exhibitions
one often sees classes for three stands " suit-
able for dinner-table decorations.'' These — as
almost invariably shown — are too nearly of one
size ; hence, if put upon a table with all other
accessories, it can at once be seen that the outer
ones are too large. It is only by experience
in the actual work upon a table that a correct
idea of size can be had. Too many vases are
an encumbrance rather than otherwise ; this
will not tend to a good effect, nor will the use
of a large number of smaller ones in preference
to a less number of larger size. Some of the
fully-laid floral decorations (only) as shown,
which, of course, consist of more than three
stands, are simple absurdities, no room being
left for plates, dessert, or other necessary
adjuncts to a properly laid-out table. Those
who arrange such as these know but little of
the practical detail, whilst those who place them
in the prize list in preference to workable designs
are equally as ignorant. Coloured drapery or
cloths are the prevailing idea with some, but,
personally speaking, after an experience of
these, I should much prefer to do without them.
Far better to depend upon the flowers for col-
our effect ; they cannot be equalled, much less
surpassed by anything artificial. Trailing sprays
of such climbers as Asparagus plumosus nanus,
Myrsiphyllum asparagoides, Veitch's Ampelop-
sis or Lygodium scandens are infinitely better
than millinery embellishments. Even where
they are used there is a difficulty at times to
select the flowers that will harmonise with them.
1 had once to contend with this. One central
cloth was red and another was green ; between
the two there was not unfrequently a difficulty.
Where sprays of such climbers as those just
named, or any other that may suggest itself, are
used it is always possible to add a few flowers,
but be moderate in their use. In every case
endeavour as far as possible to use flowers in a

natural manner. We do not want to see such
incongruities as Lapageria blooms, which after
mis-spent time has been bestowed upon by
wiring, standing erect, nor do Cattleya flowers
look well with the lip upwards instead of down,
nor should blooms of the Water Lily be ele-
vated ; let the last always be kept low. In
the use of Orchids it is always possible to mix
both diverse varieties of form and colour in the
same arrangement ; they have peculiar charms
and harmonies not possessed by other flowers.
— J. Hudson.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

EARLY PEACHES.

When I grew the Amsden June, Alexander and
Waterloo Peaches side by side on the open
wall, the Amsden June never grew so large,
neither did it crop so well as the other two.
Certainly the colour was darker and the flesh
probably a trifle sweeter. I thought it a valu-
able early Peach and well deserving of wall
space, but it was useless to grow the three, so I
dispensed with it, giving preference to the
Waterloo and Alexander. Waterloo is my
favourite, as it has so far always produced an
abundant crop of fine fruit both inside and out-
side, and if gathered at the right time and
treated with some amount of caution just before
ripening the flavour is very good indeed, in
fact better than in some of the larger mid-
season varieties. Cultivation has a great deal
to do with the quality ; especially is it so with
these American kinds. Overcropping and too
close and moist a temperature just when the
fruits are ripening are two of the greatest evils.
Waterloo with me under glass usually grows to
a good size. Though the fruits have a great
resemblance to those of Alexander, there is a
wide difference in the leaf, and those who have any
doubt respecting the two should examine the
leaves, when the matter may very easily be set-
tled. In the Waterloo we have very large,
deeply-cut, kidney-shaped glands, usually from
two to five on a leaf, quite as large, if not
larger, than those of Lord Napier Nectarine. In
Alexander the glands are quite the reverse, be-
ing small, some round and others cut and kidney
shaped, two to four on a leaf b^ing the rule. I
have always found Waterloo the largest here,
although the size varies according to the stock
on which the trees are worked and the soil in
which they are planted. I think sometimes a
black mark is given these American Peaches
when it is not altogether the Peach, but the cul-
tivation, as frequently we meet with trees
planted amongst much later kinds, and to suit
the latter the former do not get air enough at
the time of ripening. The fruits should always
be carefully gathered a day or two before being
ripe and placed on some soft material in a cool
airy room to ripen up. They will not keep for
any length of time, but quickly become like
Williams' Pear. I should not for a moment
hesitate to plant Waterloo and Hale's Early
side by side for supplying ripe fruits by the
middle of May. No hard forcing would be re-
quired if the trees were started by the end of
January.

I was glad to read "J. C.'s" favourable re-
marks respecting Early York. I never knew it
to fail on the open walls, and it is truly a deli-
cious early Peach ; it always grew well under
glass. Hale's Early when well grown is a first-
rate kind both for indoors and out, but requires
great care in gathering, as the fruits frequently

4f>2

THE GARDEN.

[June 29, 1895.

clasp the shoots so tightly that much damage is
done when taking them from the trees.

H. Markham.
Mereicorth Castle, Maidstone.

MELONS.
The season so far has been all the Melon
grower could wish, and the abundance of sun
will have given the fruit a rich flavour. No
matter how much sun heat is obtained, without
special care in the way of watering, airing, and
finishing the fruits, there will be poor flavour.
The fruit illustrated (Albert Victor) is a type
now much grown, being of medium size,
roundish, and well netted. These medium-
sized fruits are much superior to large, coarse
ones, some of which sadly lack flavour, the most
important point in the Melon. Albert Victor
can be recommended for its good qualities, free
growth, and nice appearance, three important
points the Melon grower must consider. I
think there is less trouble with the newer varie-
ties of Melons in the way of setting, as now
most varieties set so freely there is no trouble
in obtaining heavy crops. Of course, much
depends upon culture. All have not the same
convenience to grow the fruits, and in mixed
houses there is a difficulty, as moisture at cer-
tain periods of growth is not conducive to free
setting. If there is a fault, it is that some of
the newer kinds grow so strongly, and do not
then set so freely if given rich food or large
quantities of manures as heating materials.
Few fruits are raised so readily as the Melon,
and few fruits deteriorate so quickly, as if
several varieties are grown in one house they
become so much mixed that they lose their
good qualities and are flavourless. Melons
cut before they are ripe rarely have the rich
aroma so desirable, and fruits from plants that
have been prematurely dried off cannot be de-
pended upon for flavour. Many growers plant
much too close, and by crowding do not give
the plants a fair chance, as if a large grower
is cramped in a small space it is impossible for
it to fruit freely or set well, the crowded
growths preventing the plants setting, the
results being canker and insect pests. The
best crop of Melons I ever saw was in a
long, deep- pitched house, six plants of a new
variety being grown in a space usually devoted
to twenty-four, and the results were most
gratifying, as there was no disease, and the
plants, grown on the extension principle, were so
readily managed, there was a great saving of
labour and no difficulty in obtaining a second
crop, the plants being clean and vigorous.
Properly treated, the plants will cover a consider-
able roof space, and if not over-cropped at the
outset, will produce three crops when top-
dressed and kept clean. Keeping the plants
clean in crowded, over-cropped and restricted
areas is the most difficult part of culture ;
whereas with ample space there is greater
freedom from insects, the syringe can be
used to better advantage, and the work of
stopping, setting and training is not nearly so
troublesome. 1 have in these pages described a
very different mode of culture to the one now
advised— namely, by cordon plants, but that
was for a special purpose for a catch crop ; and
with a deficiency of soil and root space the result
was all one could desire. As the fruits were
required large (being for sale), flavour was the
last point considered, large quantities of liquid
manure being given from the setting period.
Growing Melons in a restricted space is doubt-
less the cause of many failures, cracking being
one of the worst. Want of food and "moisture

is the forerunner of black fly and red spider, and I careful man will soon manage this work and with

to get good results generous treatment should

be given, as for Cucumbers. Melons require a

stronger soil and less food at the start, but I

am sure many plants are starved too much in

their early stages, and better results could be

secured by growing on the extension principle,

cutting the fruits directly they commence to

crack at the stalk. G. Wythes.

no harm to the Grapes. An extra force must be
put into any dry or hot corners, as here the spider
generally gains a foothold and quickly works
destruction. If carefully undertaken, these wash-
ings will prove most refreshing to the Vines. —
A. Yorsc.

The Plum aphis. — Up to this date (June
17) Plums have been wonderfully free from insect
foes, but I see they are beginning to become in-
fested slightly with the above aphis. As this pest
increases at an enormous rate and will quickly
spread over all the trees unless prevented, no time
should be lost in destroying this enemy imme-
diately it is detected. Any proved insecticide
applied warm will effectually settle this foe and
stop its doing further mischief. — W. G. C.

Two good Cherries for an unheated
house. — When at Maindiff Court, near Aberga-

Melon Albert Victor. From a photograph sent by Mr. Ernest E
Peacock, Bewdley Villa, Bath.

MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA GRAPE.
Judging from my own experience and visits to
other gardens during the past few weeks, this
magnificent variety has set unusually well this
year, and with a remarkable absence of stoneless
berries. Every year I crop all the Vines heavily
that are under my charge, and the remark is
frequently made, " You may go on all right with
most sorts, but some day you will come to grief
by cropping your Muscats in that style." So far
such has not been the case, nor do I think it will
occur from that cause, for with ample drainage I
know of no variety of Grape that will enjoy
an ample supply of plant food more grate-
fully. At the same time I would not suggest the
use of any one particular manure,
no matter how good and reliable
it may have proved, for Vines-
can be surfeited with good fare
if confined to one particular diet.
Again, in the feeding of Vines-
there is a right and a wrong way
of performing it. Of this I have
seen several instances during the
past few years in which the rain-
fall has been below the average.
Many of us are too much guided
by custom in watering Vines,
not making sufficient allowance
for the want of water in the
subsoil, and for the greater eva-
poration continually going on in
a hot, dry season like the present
one ; consequently the borders
are much drier than one ima-
gines, or as indicated by thesur-
ace. Supposing the border to
be dry, and it is thoroughly
saturated with liquid manure,
or perhaps a powerful chemical
fertiliser, the result is frequently
lisastrous, and, I believe, is a
prime cause of shanking, mil-
dew, and other evils. In the
lirst place the roots are languish-
ing more for moisture than for
stimulants. Some varieties of
Grapes will endure such treat-
ment without any apparent ill-
effects, but not so Muscat of
Alexandria. I have seen the
berries commence to shrivel be-
fore they were ripe, and shank-
ing suddenly set in from this injudicious ap-
plication of fertilisers, but perhaps the worst
instance I ever saw came before me last year.
A friend, who had none too good a water
supply, had a house of Muscats just commenc-
ing to colour, and, as the border had be-
come very dry, he gave it a thorough soaking,
also using diluted liquid manure, with a fairly
strong dressing of chemical manure on the border.
Instead of giving an extra push to the Vines, as
intended, the bunches commenced to rot in a
wholesale manner. If the border of the vinery is
drier than it should be, it is much better to give
it clear water at first, especially if planted with
Muscats, and then in a few days supply some-
thing stronger ; by this means no harm will be
done, but much good, as the roots will be in a-
condition favourable for taking up the fare pro-
vided for them. In a season of drought such as
we are now experiencing it is better to err on the
side of too much water than too little. Of course,
no hard and fast rules can be laid down as to how
often Vines should be watered to keep them in a
healthy, vigorous state, as soils, drainage, &c,
In some cases where

venny, recently, I was pleased to see in an un-
heated wall case two well-known Cherries bearing
splendid crops of large, well-coloured fruit, viz.,
Black Tartarian and Governor Wood. Other va-
rieties were bearing good crops, but the two
named surpassed all others in every respect, and
Mr. J. Newell, who now has charge of these gar-
dens, speaks in the highest praise of their merits
for planting in the glass wall cases or in unheated
houses, as they rarely fail to produce heavy crops
of fruit.— G. C.

Syringing- Vines. — Unless great care is taken
red spider will be much in evidence this season,
especially on light soils and also perhaps where
the root action is not very good. Dryness at the
root and a hot and close atmosphere will soon
bring red spider in shoals. Even in the best
managed vineries a sharp look-out has to be
undertaken. A system which I have practised
ever since I had vineries under my sole charge is,
during these hot and dry periods, to give the Vine
leaves a good shower bath in the evening just as
the sun has gone off the roof. Of course, only
perfectly clear soft water must be used, and which

must only be directed at the foliage, keeping the exercise a great influence,
water as clear of the bunches as possible. A ! the soil is light and the border shallow it may be

June 29, 1895.]

THE GARDEN

463

necessary to water once a week, even when there
is a good mulch of manure on, and on heavier
soil, with possibly deeper borders, no watering
may be needed for three weeks or a month.

As Muscats that were started in February or
■early in March will soon be commencing to colour,
it may be stated that there should be no hurry in
tying back the leaves to permit the sun to have
free access to the bunches, l'ersonally, I do not
believe in the system of fixing back the foliage,
for if the laterals have been kept in proper order
and the growth or leaves not overcrowded, suffi-
cient light will be admitted to give the beautiful
amber colour so much prized without the risk of
rusted berries, which are a great disfigurement if
required for exhibition, though frequently no de-
triment for home consumption. Another cause
■of injury to Muscats is the sudden reduction of
moisture in the atmosphere and the lowering of
the temperature by giving front ventilation as
well as at the top of the house day and night when
the berries commence to colour. It would be
interesting to know how much the early shrivelling
of the berries could be attributed to those two
influences. Over-cropping is undoubtedly a
great factor in the premature shrivelling of Mus-
cats, but I think this greatly reduced atmospheric
moisture and considerable fall in the temperature
are more to blame than is usually admitted. The
evaporation is equally as rapid while the Grapes
are colouring, and if the foliage cannot obtain
sufficient moisture for the proper performance of
its functions, the fruit suffers to some extent.
Take the ventilation again. If the temperature
has been kept up to that required by Muscats
until the time for colouring, and then it is dropped
10° or 15° day and night, with possibly a draught,
it stands to reason that something will suffer;
yet this is done in many places. By all means
admit air to the Vines, but at the same time main-
tain a night temperature of at least 65°, with a rise
of 10° by day. Of late we have had very cold
nights, the thermometer on several oceasions_going
below freezing point. This morning (June 17) ours
was down to 32°, which means that with a little top
and front ventilation on the vineries a fairly good
heat must be maintained in the hot-water pipes
to keep up the requisite temperature. Some
employers think their gardeners ought not to re-
quire fuel for the houses during the summer, but
this is false economy, as it not only severely
handicaps a gardener, but, owing to the fruit not
being so well coloured and highly finished, it is
neither so well flavoured for home use nor so valu-
able for market. No Grape is more delicious than
well-ripened Muscat of Alexandria, and reflects
the highest credit on both the employer and his
or her gardener. Again, for market perfectly
finished examples will command a price above all
other Grapes ; therefore, ladies and gentlemen
possessing vineries should not grudge the neces
sary fuel to properly finish the crops therein, as
it is certainly to their interest to supply the same.

W. G. C.

Strawberries for forcing. — In a short note
on the value of Noble for May supplies I fear I did
not make my meaning quite clear, as " S. W. F."
<p. 409) advises me to try Royal Sovereign. I pur-
chased 100 plants of the new variety the day it was
first exhibited, as I saw at a glance its good quali-
ties, and though the cost was serious at the time
named, I have had no reason to repent my bar-
gain. During the week ending June 15 I ga-
thered so many grand fruits and of such good
quality, that it has repaid handsomely for the out-
lay two years ago. Last season the plants pro-
mised such a heavy crop, that I removed the
flowers from one half of the plants, getting a fine
■crop of early runners. These this season have
been forced, and a portion was planted last
August for early fruits, and the yield was enor-
mous. Altogether I have given it a comprehen-
sive trial. So far I have not found it quite so
early as Noble, but it is more prolific and superior
in every way. A few days at the end of May or
the early part of June are of great importance
to growers, and I shall still plant Noble on a

warm raised border for early dishes. I do not
think any single variety has paid better than
Noble in the past, but doubtless it is now super-
seded by the one " S. W. F." advises. In my
note as to its returns, I intended to prove that it
had paid grandly. Market growers, too, have
assured me that Noble was their sheet anchor if
specially grown, that is as yearling plants on rich
land and in the most favourable position. It is
strange how the variety advised varies in certain
soils. If I am not mistaken, " S. W. F." lives in
a favoured southern locality, where the land is
noted for its rich crops of fruit. My soil is very
bad for Strawberries, being shallow and on
gravel, anything but good Strawberry land.
Noble from yearling plants only cropped once is
our earliest fruit. Royal Sovereign is six days
later, but freer, and will, I hope, be equal to
Noble for hardiness in severe winters when we
lose many of the Queen and Pine family. The
most robust grower is Noble, but the Royal
Sovereign is very free, bears enormous crops, is
far ahead of older kinds, and will become a
greater favourite on account of its having with-
stood the drought admirably. — W.

Dry weather Strawberries. — Many growers
have poor soils, a small supply of water, and
limited means to apply the same, and if they can
grow robust varieties, there is considerable gain
and less anxiety as to the crop. The season of
1893 taught us a lesson as to the value of young
plants compared with old exhausted ones which
soon fail in dry seasons, bear small fruits, and
require much water or food to keep them alive.
There is an immense gain by planting annually
and giving new quarters, well prepared, as the
plants in specially cultivated soil give a much
better return and can be depended upon. There
are a few varieties special!}' good in dry weather,
but Royal Sovereien tops the list. The fruits
this season are grand and in cjuantity, and young
plants have done remarkably well. Another
good dry weather kind is Sir C. Napier. This
grows well in most soils and is not so readily
affected by drought. The small, but richly
flavoured Vicomtesse H. do Thury is an excellent
dry weather Strawberry. It succeeds where
others fail, is a great cropper, very early, and one
of the best for preserving. Laxton's Latest of All
is a splendid hardy variety, doing well in seasons
of drought ; indeed, with me it is the best late
variety, and gave very fine crops in 1893 when
others failed. Oxonian also thrives well ; this is
also known under the name of Eleanor. The same
remarks apply to Kitley's Goliath, a strong grower,
its chief merit being its long-bearing qualities.
Doubtless there are many others ; for instance,
Aberdeen Favourite is good, but those named have
been given a good trial, and I note their value on
light land. — G. Wythes.

Good packing- Strawberries. — Flavour and
size in Strawberries are important points, but
it often happens we want a fruit that will travel
well. Noble, though one of the most profitable
Strawberries grown, is a bad traveller, and unless
carefully packed does not look well at the end of
a long journey. The new Royal Sovereign is a
good traveller, as after a journey of many miles
it arrives sound and without blemish. Much
always depends upon the packing, as the best
Strawberries when only sent a few miles present
a sorry spectacle badly packed, whereas well
packed fruit in small punnets quite firmly wedged
together and with little top space will travel well
hundreds of miles, or the fruit may be packed in
layers in shallow boxes, and at a journey's end be
perfect if such material as soft leaves is used,
wadding being most objectionable. Many of the
Pine class pack grandly, having their fruits well
protected with seeds. Keens' Seedling and other
dark red glossy kinds require mostcareful packing.
Laxton's Latest of All is a splendid fruit for sending
long journeys. Some Strawberries are much
more juicy than others, and will not bear
packing when sent long distances. President
and Sir C. Napier held their own for many years
on account of their good packing qualities, but
some of Mr. Laxton's seedlings, of which Royal

Sovereign is one of the very best, willdoubtlessoust
many old favourites. As to the best way to pack
I will not now enlarge upon, as various methods are
employed. The object of this note is to point out
those that have firm fruits and are suitable for
sending long distances. All the varieties men-
tioned are also noted for their good cropping
qualities. — \Y.

BLISTER ON VINE LEAVES.

With your permission I will make two remarks on
the carefully written article on this vexed cjuestion
over the well-known signature of " W. I." (p. 410).
The one refers to a matter of omission, the other
of commission. From first to last the writer
treats the matter as one of surface treatment or
ventilation, and no doubt this is often the cause
of it, but at times the cause of this leaf blister
lies deeper down in the roots.

Then " W. I.," in his most careful and sound
advice on early ventilation, says, " a little heat
in the hot-water pipes is most desirable." The
sentence is carefully worded. I duly note that
"W. I.'' writes "a little heat," but then this
caution is lost when he says that this little heat
in the pipes in the early morning is most de-
sirable. What for? The writer is advocating
early ventilation, that fresh air should be admitted
ahead of any advance of the internal temperature
of vineries through the growing power or force of
the rising sun. To accomplish this task — which
is more difficult in practice than it appears on
paper — the less heat in the hot-water pipes in the
early morning the better.

Hence — especially through spells of bright
weather — I have educated my stokers into having
vinery fires very low, or cjuite out, and the pipes
cold in the morning. Should the state of the
weather (or of the crops) require it, the fires are
easily lit and a little or much heat sent into the
water pipes as required. Of course I had other
reasons for practising this cool policy in regard to
the artificial heating of vineries in the early morn-
ing. I have firmly believed that most of the checks,
diseases, insects, such as spider, thrips, &c. , that
so often dash the hopes and blight the prospects
of Grape growers, originate in this mixing to
excess of fire and sun heat beyond the means pro-
vided by ordinary ventilation to properly regu-
late or skilfully control. Of course extraordinary
means are still available, such as the opening wide
of doors and the slipping down or off of roof lights.
But no one knows better than " W. I." how dan-
gerous these extreme means of keeping vineries
cool are, and how fruitful of blister and other
accidents or diseases they are likely to be. It is
safer far to have the pipes cool or cold in the
morning and start each new day with such arti-
ficial heat as the weather and crops are likely to
require. D. T. F.

PREPARING STRAWBERRIES FOR
FORCING.
With so many new Strawberries the desire comes
to give some a trial, but as these fruits vary so
much under culture in different soils, it is well
to try the new kinds in various ways to find out
their value. A new variety hard forced may be
very disappointing ; whereas a few weeks later
outside it may be the reverse. Another test, and
one which is most satisfactory to all concerned, is
to fruit a plant or two in the open, testing its
qualities by the side of well-known forcing kinds.
The grower cannot expect those plants which have
borne fruit to give early runners also in time to
fruit the following January or February. Plants
for forcing require preparation to get the best
results. My plan to get plants in quantity and
as strong as possible is a simple one. I layer a
certain number of plants for the purpose as early
in July as possible, and it matters little how they
are layered whether in small pots or turves. A
piece of ground is well prepared, being double-
dug, heavily manured, and got into condition for
planting. The plants are turned out at the end of
July, planted in hard-trodden land, watered

464

THE GARDEN

[Jone 29, 1895.

freely as required, and make a splendid growth
by the end of September or early October. Being
short of space, Lettuce is planted between the
rows for an autumn crop. The distance be-
tween the rows is 2J feet, the plants half that
distance apart. These are the material for next
season's forcing runners. The flower-trusses are
kept picked off before they expand, and by the
third week in May I have runners in quantity
that will be fit to layer early in June. There are
great advantages in this system ; the plants are
not spread over a wide surface, as a few rows of
plants will produce a great quantity of runners.
Plants grown specially for runners will give
twenty times as many as those which have to
support a crop of fruit. There is a great saving
of time and labour, and much better plants are
the result. Purchased plants for forcing cannot
be depended upon. I have had them sent home
in such a small state and so late that I now

firmness of its flesh and the thickness of its
skin or other causes it also bears carriage well.
It is a bold venture to pit the bearing pro-
perties of the Golden Spire against the Keswick
Codlin or Lord Sufheld at its best. But it
is a marvellous bearer under favourable con-
ditions of culture and treatment, the fruits form-
ing themselves into trusses more than most
varieties. Few varieties form better pyramids.
Thinning alike of wood and fruit and feeding are
essential to continuous cropping and the produc-
tion of such high quality in Golden Spire or any
other Apples as shall command the highest prices
in our markets. — D. T. F.

COVERED WAYS OP HARDY FRUIT

TREES.

This quite practicable way of growing fruit

trees and shading walks is too seldom carried

counties may see how well fruit trees do in hard
walks. It is not only in kitchen and fruit gar-
dens that such a thing would be desirable, but
even in flower gardens, if we could ever get out
of the strait-laced notion of a flower garden
which insists on everything being seen at one
glance. There is not the least reason why a
beautiful arbour of fruit trees would not be
most effective and welcome in various kinds of
flower gardens associated with hardy flowers, or
otherwise. In some old English gardens there
was a habit of "plashing" trees over walks —
that is to say, growing trees like the Lime over
walks, which naturally grew so vigorously that
they had to be repressed with an equal vigour,
and this led in the end to ugliness in the ex-
cessive mutilation of the trees, as may still be
seen in some old gardens. One result of the

Covered way of fruit trees. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by
Mrs. Newman, Hazelhurst, Haslemere.

always resort to homegrown plants for early forc-
ing. It is a great loss to grow your plants and
then fail. Much time is taken up in going over a
wide area and getting the best runners from ex-
hausted plants, and there is much time lost in
watering during growth, so that getting the plants
into a certain space where layering, watering, and
other details can be carried out readily is a saving
when labour is none too plentiful and early forcing
essential. It should also be pointed out there is
no waste in any way, as the plants after furnishing
the runners will the following season give splendid
fruit and in quantity. S. H. B.

The Golden Spire Apple.—" W. G. C."

estimates this variety highly in stating (p. 410)
that it is more profitable and reliable than Lord
Sufheld, Keswick Codlin or Lord Orosvenor.
Even the novelty of its spiral form seems to help,
not hinder, its sale, while its golden colour gives
it a market advantage o»rer such pale-faced varie-
ties as Keswick Codlin and Lord Suttield. From the

out. Few things would give more satisfaction
if the right sort of fruit trees were selected,
and by the right sort we mean kinds of the
highest excellence, which do well in their several
districts. Although in gardens generally the
shaded walk is not nearly so necessary as it is
in Italy and Southern France, or even in the
warmest parts of Germany, in a season such as
the present shade is as welcome here as any-
where else, and as many of our garden designers
in their wisdom have given us four times as many
walks as anybody wanted, there is plenty of
opportunity for covering some of them with
fruit trees which, well chosen, would give us
much beauty in spring, handsome fruit in
autumn and lightly shaded walks. The very
substance of which walks are made lends itself
much more to the wants of fruit trees than the
soft surface of the ordinary kitchen garden,
so that by this kind of fruit culture we
use, as it were, the walk itself and use
it well. Anybody who notices the Apricot
district of Oxfordshire and the" neighbouring

frequent cutting down was a very vigorous
summer growth of long shoots, which cast a dense
shade and dripped in wet weather. Even Apple
trees may be trained over walks, and will sup-
port themselves without wires or any structure,
as we once saw a perfect covered way of them
in a Sussex garden. We think the purpose of
such walks would be equally well answered by
training fruit trees over them, as they are trees
which much more readily submit to such treat-
ment and give the light and airy shade which
is best in our country.

In choosing the kinds of hardy fruit trees
for this purpose, the first place should be given
to the best British Apples, which are as hand-
some in the early year as in the fall, and give
the best fruit which our country can produce.
The advantage of trellis-training is, that the
shoots of the tree being fixed, they escape
to a great extent injury from storms, which are
so frequent in the autumn, and if we get a crop
of fine fruit, it is more likely to come to matu-
rity in this way. The very hardiest kinds of

June 29, 1895.]

THE GARDEN.

465

Pear, Plum, and Cherry also would do well in
this way, and small fruits might be easily grown
to perfection. Moreover, if the very finest kinds
of small fruit were grown iu this way it would
be possible to protect them easily. The trellis,
whatever it was formed of, need not be confined
to fruit trees only, but here and there wreaths
of Clematis or other elegant climbers might
vary the lines.

Mrs. Newman, who sent us the photograph
of the covered way of Apples from which our
engraving was made, says: "The trees are
trained upon iron supports, and they bear a
quantity of fruit. When in full flower, with a
border of Pansies and Forget-me-not at their
feet, and the distance of hill and valley beyond,
they are a lovely sight." In this case, as we
suggest, fruit trees have been used with ex-
cellent results in the flower garden or pleasure
grounds. The photograph was taken in the
garden of Mr. W. Jackson at Haslemere.

Societies and Exhibitions.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

June 25.

There was a full and interesting meeting at the
Drill Hall on Tuesday, not so large, perhaps, as
the previous one. The Orchids were not so numer-
ous as at the meeting a fortnight ago, but consider-
ing the hot weather and the difficulty of keeping
flowers in perfection, there was a very fine dis-
play. The attendance also was good. Hardy
flowers were a great feature, whilst fruit and
vegetables were present in considerable quantity.

Orchid Committee.

First-first certificates were awarded to the fol-
lowing—

Dendrobium illustre. — A hybrid between
Dendrobium chrysotoxum and D. Dalhousianum.
The plant partakes both in the growth and in the
flower of both the parents. The sepals and petals
are pale yellow, lip hairy, as in Dalhousianum,
pale yellow in front, with a reddish brown disc.
From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons.

L.elio-Cattleya C. G. Rubbling. — This, ahybrid
raised from La-lia purpurata alba x C Gaskell-
iana, is very distinct and beautiful ; sepals and
petals blush, lip deep crimson in the centre,
beautifully margined with white. The throat is
lemon-yellow, lined with crimson. This is a fine
addition to the fine hybrids raised by Mr. May-
nard at St. Albans. From Messrs. F. Sander
and Co.

Awards of merit were adjudged to the follow-
ing-

L.elia grandis tenebrosa (Charlesworth's
variety). — An exceedingly dark form of the type
and a good-shaped flower. From Mr. F. Hardy,
Tarporley, Cheshire.

L.LLIA GRANDIS TENEBROSA PlTTIANA. — A dis-
tinct form, in direct contrast to Charlesworth's
var. , having light yellowish sepals and petals and
creamy white lip, lined with purple in the throat.
From Mr. H. T. Pitt, Stamford Hill, N.

Cattleya Warscewiczi var. Lord Rothschild.
— Differing from the type by having lost the
characteristic white blotch in the throat, the dark
colouring of the lip having absorbed the white.
From Lord Rothschild, Tring Park.

Orchis latifolia (Glasnevin var.). — Differing
from the type by its larger flowers and finer
colour. From Mr. F. Moore, Glasnevin.

Botanical certificates were awarded to the
following —

Dendrobium inversum. — A small-growing and
most distinct species, having flowers of the same
size and as near as possible of the same colour as in
Lielia cinnabarina. From Mr. J. Bradshaw,
Southgate.

Pleurothallisimmersa. — Adistinctand pretty
species, with hairy, creamy white flowers. From
Mr. R. I. Measures.

Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons had a very fine
group consisting of many of their rare hybrids
and other scarce species, amongst which were
Cattleya Schrcederiana, a natural hybrid between
Cattleja Walkeriana and C. superba, L.-C.
Arnoldiana, Cattleya Gaskelliana alba, C. Mosske
Wagneri, L.-C. Canhamiana alba, Epiphronitis
Veitchi, Gflogyne Dayana carrying six fine
spikes of flower, Dendrobium glomeratum, D.
illustre, mentioned above, D. Dearei, Miltonia
vexillaria in variety, two fine plants of Disa
Veitchi, Oncidium macranthum, O. phymatochi-
Ium, O. longipes, Odontoglossum hastilabium, a
fine variety, 0. crispum, Cypripedium Harrisi-
anum superbum, C. Artemus, C. Curtisi, a fine
dark variety, C. superbiens, C. orphanum, Catase-
tum tubulare, Thunia Veitchiana, a specially fine
variety with deep rose sepals and petals and a fine
dark lip, Brassia verrucosa, Oncidium pulvin-
atum, Cattleya Warscewiczi, C. Mendeli, Epiden-
drum reniferumandEpidendrumvitellinummajus.
A silver Flora medal was awarded.

Mr. F. Hardy, Ashton-on Mersey, Cheshire, was
also awarded a silver Flora medal for a very fine
and well-grown lot of plants, prominent among
which were Cattleya Mo&sirv Hardyana, a form of C.
Mossia- Wagneri, L.-C. Arnoldiana superba, L.-C.
Stella, L. grandis tenebrosa, a fine plant carrying
twenty-five fine dark flowers, Sobralia macrantha
alba, Sobralia Kienastiana, Cypripedium macro-
chilum with three fine flowers, C. Gowerranum
superbum, Lslia grandis (Charlesworth's var.)
mentioned above, and some good forms of Cattleya
Mossis.

Mr. H. T. Pitt, Stamford Hill, sent a pretty
group, consisting principally of L. grandis tene-
brosa, the variety Pittiana (noted above) standing
out prominent amongst them. Miltonia vexillaria
rubella, M. Roezli, a fine var., Cypripedium Cham-
berlainianum, some fine forms of Odontoglossum
crispum, Oncidium phymatochilum, with a fine
branching spike 5 feet long, and Angriecum fal-
catum were also included. A silver Banksian
medal was awarded. J. Gurney Fowler, Glebe-
lands, Woodford, sent some choice things, note-
worthy among them being the Walton Grange var.
of La-lia grandis tenebrosa, with its beautiful
golden yellow sepals and petals and white blotch
on the front of the lip ; also a fine plant of
L.-C. Arnoldiana, carrying two spikes with four-
flowers each ; L.-C. eximia, with two flowers ; and
Cypripedium Rothschildianum. A silver Banksian
medal was awarded. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co.
were also awarded a silver Banksian medal for a
small group, consisting of Odontoglossum crispum
in variety, two plants of the new hybrid Cypri-
pedium Gertrude Hollington, C. Curtisi, two
plants carrying six flowers each, a fine Cattleya
Warscewiczi with an extra large and intensely
dark lip ; Ccelogyne pandurata, with its distinct
green petals and black lip : Odontoglossum Lan-
ceanum and Grammatophyllum Measuresranum
carrying a fine spike. Messrs. F. Sander and Co.
had a small but choice group, amongst which
were La-lio-Cattleya C. G. Rcibling, described
above, Thunia Bensonaj grandiflora, Cypripedium
A. de Lairesse, a hybrid between C. Curtisi and
C. Rothschildianum ; C. Dayano-Lowianum, a hy-
brid in the way of C. luridum ; C. Kimballia-
num, a supposed natural hybrid between C. Roth-
schildianum and C. Dayanum ; Cypripedium
Massaianum, the first hybrid raised in which
C. Rothschildianum had been used as a parent;
a very fine variety of Cattleya Rex, C. Mossia?
with a fine dark lip, Cirrhopetalum picturatum,
Lajlia prrestans, and Odontoglossum Galeotti-
anum. Mr. T. M. Burton sent Cypripedium
Burtoni. The same cross had been shown by
Mr. Hollington previously under the name of
C. Millmani. Mr. T. Statter, Stand Hall, Man-
chester, sent a small group of rare and fine varie-
ties, among which was the best form we have
seen of La-lio-Cattleya Canhamiana alba with
two flowers, L.-C. eximia, two fine varieties of L.
grandis tenebrosa, Cypripedium Rothschildianum,

C. Harrisianum superbum, and C. sslligerum
majus. Mr. De B. Crawshay, Rosefield, Seven-
oaks, sent La;lia purpurata Venus, a distinct and
delicate form, and Odontoglossum crispum Craw-
shayanum, which had previously received an
award of merit. Mr. A. J. Hollington, Forty
Hill, Enfield, sent Cypripedium Millmani and C.
Aylingi, one of the finest Cypripediums that has
been raised, and a seedling Cattleya not named.
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heaton, Bradford,
sent Cattleya Mendeli (Charlesworth's var.), in
the way of C. Mendeli Morganitc, but with larger
flowers. W. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, sent
Odontoglossum crispum Niobe, a well shaped
flower, with large brown blotch on lip. Mr.
J. Foster Alcock sent Gongora cassidea bearing
two fine spikes of flower.

Floral Committee.

First-class certificates were granted to the
following : —

Philadelphia Boule d'Argent. — This is one
of a series of hybrids raised by M. Lemoine be-
tween P. microphyllus and P. coronarius. It re-
sembles the former in habit of growth, being dwarf
with erect shoots that are wreathed in flowers
their entire length. The flowers are semi-double
and intermediate in size between those of the two
parents. Shown by Messrs. T. Cripps and Son,
Tunbridge Wells.

Echinocactus aureus. — A most distinct variety
of the Porcupine Cactus that will become popular
now that more attention rs being given to these
plants. It is entirely covered with long spines,
which are of a clear yellow colour. From Messrs.
Sander and Co., St. Albans.

Awards of merit were granted to the follow-
ing : -

Begonia Prince Adolphus of Teck. — A rich
crimson self, the flower of medium size, with
smooth flat petals. From Messrs. Laing and
Sons.

Begonia J. T. Bennett-Poe. — This is of a light
scarlet colour, with flat outer guard petals and a
full centre. Also from Messrs. Laing and Sons.

Cai.ocmortusvenustus pictus. — Anothercharm-
ing addition to this lovely family. The flowers
are a little smaller than those of the type, but
neatly shaped, of a purer white, with rosy spots
at the base and the characteristic brown blotch on
each petal. Shown by Messrs. R. Wallace and
Co., Colchester.

Carnation Cowslip.— This has a fine flower of
perfect shape, and is yellow, edged and flaked
with bright rose. Shown by Mr. Martin Smith,
Hayes.

Carnation Lady Ridley. — A white self, with a
full, well-formed flower, but it did not appear-
better than other white kinds. This also came
from Mr. Martin Smith.

Carnation George Cruickshank. — This has a
large flower, which is butf, flamed with scarlet,
this latter colour predominating to the extent of
making the flower appear almost self-coloured.
Also from Mr. Martin Smith.

Carnation Zoe. — A pretty variety of a most
distinct shade of pink, practically a self, having
only a few tiny dots of light purple on the petals.
This also was from Mr. Martin Smith.

Lilium Dalhansoni.— This handsome hybrid
Lily, whose parents were L. dalmaticum and L.
Hansoni, is now well known, and a coloured plate
of it was given in The Garden of September 16,
1893, p. 260. A fine spike of it was shown by Mr.
T. S. Ware, of Tottenham.

P.euny Mme. de Galhan.— A charming herba-
ceous variety with a graceful loose flower,
the outer petals rose-pink, shading to flesh, with
a creamy white centre. From Messrs. Paul and
Son, Cheshunt.

Tufted Pansy A. J. Rowberry. — This is a fine
addition to the ray less varieties and most valuable
because of its deep rich yellow colour. It is the
finest yellow self yet raised. Shown by Mr. G.
McLeod, Chingford.

Potentilla californica.— Though by no means
a new plant, it appeared as such to many who saw

466

THE GARDEN

[Jdnb 29, 1895.

and appreciated its beauty for the first time. A
large bunch was shown, the flowers full, double,
and very large, of a rich yellow colour, slightly
tipped with red. Shown by Mr. M. Prichard,
Chi ist church.

Sweet I'ea Curio. — A miniature variety of
which nine pots were shown, the shoots being
about a foot long and profusely flowered, the
flowers pure white and as large as those of the or-
dinary forms. We fail to see the value of this,
which is a poor apology for a noble garden flower,
and nothing will be gained by dwarfing Sweet
Peas into comparative insignificance. The craze
for a pigmy strain of our best, garden flowers is to
be deprecated. It was shown by Mr. Burpee, of
Philadelphia.

The group of hardy flowers from Messrs. J.
Veitch and Sons was most prominent, Delphiniums
largely predominating, the spikes very finely
grown and flowered. Some of the best were Agnes,
light purple ; Lord Balfour, purple and blue ;
Nahamah, deep blue ; Lord Charles Bedford,
light blue; Minerve, light blue and mauve-purple.
Among species D. nudicaule was finely shown,
also D. cashmerianum and D. grandiflorum ple-
num. Early Phloxes and Campanulas were ako
good. They also showed cut Roses in quantity,
Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals making a fine dis-
play. A silver-gilt Flora medal was awarded.
Mr. Ware's group of hardy plants filled much
space, and his method of grouping each variety
by itself is much to be preferred to the conven-
tional way of indiscriminately mixing everything
shown. In this group Lilies were well shown,
especially L. colchicum, L. pomponium, L. tes-
taceum and L. Dalhansoni. Brodia;a coccinea,
Lychnis vespertina plena, Eryngiums, Delphi-
niums and Alstrcemerias were all noteworthy. A
silver Flora medal was awarded, and a similar
award went to Mr. M. Prichard, of Christchurch,
for a fine group of the best hardy flowers in season.
Delphinium belladonna, D. nudicaule, English
Irises, (Enothera speciosa, Potentillas, Chrysan-
themum maximum M. Prichard, Spira?a astil-
boides floribunda, most profuse in flower, Sca-
biosa caucasica and Orchis foliosa were all well
represented here. Messrs. Jackman and Sons
showed hardy flowers in quantity, noteworthy
being their Delphiniums, the scarlet Bee Balm,
Linaiia dalmatica, Oenothera fruticosa and Iris
Kampferi in variety. Roses (both Teas and Hy-
brid Perpetuals) were also shown, and a silver
Banksian medal was awarded. Messrs. Barr re-
ceived a similar award for one of their charac-
teristic groups, comprising many good things not
shown elsewhere, as Iris Monspur, a noble, tall,
late-flow ering kind, of distinct and striking beauty.
It is a garden hybrid between I. Monnieri and
I. spuria and a plant that one should have a bold
group of. A coloured plate of this was given in
The Garden of November 15, 1890, p. 462.
I. aurea, I. ochroleuca, equally tall and handsome
were shown well ; also Eryngiums, Linarias and'
the great Senecio macrophyllus. Messrs. R-
Wallace and Co. showed Caloc'horti in larger quan-
tity than they have ever done before, and the
group was quite a centre of attraction. The va-
rieties of C. venustus were most numerous on this
occasion, and in addition to the kind that received
the award of merit we noted C. v. oculatus, a tall,
robust form ; C. v. Vesta, very handsome, with
a large reflexed flower; C. v. Vesta albus, a
perfect gem, creamy white, with sulphur base,
free from any spot or blotch ; C. roseus, a rose-
tinted form, and the brilliant scarlet C. Kennedyi,
which was figured in The Garden February 11*
1893, p. 108. English Irises were well shown, also
Brodia>as in variety, including the curious climb-
ing B. volubilis, and Liliums, the varieties of L.
elegans being numerous in several most distinct
and Btriking colours. A silver Banksian medal
was awarded. Messrs. Cutbush and Sons received
a similar award for a very fine group of Malmaison
Carnations, the plants in pots carrying splendid
flowers.

Roses and hardy flowers were shown by Messrs.
Paul and Son, the Roses mostly free- flowering
garden kinds, also new and old single varieties

such as Carmine Pillar, especially rich in colour ;
Reine Blanche, a lovely variety of cupped form
and creamy white with rose tipped buds ; R.
Andersoni. deep clear rose colour, distinct and
striking; R. macrantha, blush, shading to white
with extra large flowers ; R. moschata alba and
others, all most desirable sorts that ought to be
common in our gardens. A brorze Banksian
medal was awarded. Messrs. Dobbie and Co.
exhibited a fine group of show, fancy and tufted
Pansies and Sweet Peas all grown at their new
nursery in Kent. The Pansies were remarkable
alike for their fine size and freshness in spite of
the tropical sun that has daily shone upon them.
The Sweet Peas were also good, all the best new
and old varieties being shown. We made note of
Orange Prince ; Firefly, bright red ; Mrs. Eck-
ford, the nearest approach to yellow yet raised ;
Blanche Burpee, Emily Eckford, and the good old
Princess Beatrice, not yet surpassed in its parti-
cular shade. A silver Banksian medal was awarded.
Messrs. Cheal and Sons, of Crawley, received a
bronze Banksian medal for tufted Pansies in
quantity and hardy flowers.

Cactaceous plants were represented by two
large groups, but only one was entered for the
prizes offered, the first prize being aw arded to Mr.
W. C. Ludford, Fernlea, Four Oaks, Sutton Cold-
field, Birmingham. Many kinds were shown, but
hardly any in flower. Messrs. Cannell have evi-
d<ntly turned their attention to this class of
plants, and tbey showed a very extensive group,
to which a silver Flora medal was awarded.
Other exhibits were Pelargonium Henry Jacoby
in double form from Mr. Cannell, Philadelphus
Lemoinei frcm Mr. A. Waterer, a flowering
branch of Frtmontia ealifornica frrm Mr. F. W.
Moore, Glasnevin, new garden Roses frcm a
variety of crosses from Lord Penzance, a buff-
coloured self Carnation named Lady Penzance,
and Dipladenia atropurpurea from Messrs. San-
der and Sons. Mr. G. Farini showed double
Begonias in a most ugly way, the blooms in tubes
on the conventional green beards without a leaf
or foil of any sort. Mr. W. Taylor, of Hampton,
showed a new crimson Rose named Robin Lyth,
and Delphiniums were shown by Mr. Mann,
gardener to Mr. C. F. Thompson, Ffnhilt,
Cardiff. Messrs. Cripps, of Turbridge Wells,
showed a quantity of Hypericum Moserianrm tri-
color and a variegated variety of Daphniphjllum
glaucescens.

The prizes offered for hardy flowers did not
bring out much competition. Mr. G. H. Sage, of
Ham House, Petersham, was first for twelve
bunches. He showed Delphiniums, Irises, Iceland
Poppies, Centaurea macroeephala, Pfeonies, Cam-
panula persicifolia, Lathyrus latifolius, Lilies,
tEnothera Fraseri, Chrysanthemum maximum,
Eryngiums and Potentillas. For eight bunches,
Mr. C. Herrin, The Gardens, Dropmore. was first,
his exhibit containing good bunches of Verbascum
vernale. Clematis recta, Campanula persicifolia
and Delphiniums. Miss Debenham, St. Peter's,
St. Albans, was second. For twelve spikes of
Delphiniums. Mr. A. Crossman, gardener to Mr.
J. Brutton, Yeovil, was first with a good exhibit
of five spikes, the best varieties being Duke of
Teck, Ultramarine, Agnes Kelway, Lorenzo and
David. The same exhibitor was also first for
twelve bunches of herbaceous Pa?onies, this being
the only lot forthcoming, as owing to the heat
and drought they are mostly out of flower now in
gardens.

Fruit Committee.

The work of this committee was heavier than
usual, Melons being shown in quantity. Toma-
toes were good and Strawberries equally numer-
ous. Good collections of Pine-apples and vege-
tables were staged.

A first-class certificate was awarded to —

Strawberry Monarch. — A very fine wedge-
shaped fruit, beautiful in colour and firm in flesh.
It is a cross between Latest of All and Captain,
and partakes of the British Queen flavour, but
is more robust, a heavy cropper, and does well on

light soils. From Messrs. Laxton Brothers, Bed-
ford.
Awards of merit were given to the following—

Melon Bishop's Favourite. — A white fleshed
fruit, above medium size, slightly netted, and
with a good depth of flesh, very sweet and well
flavoured. This was sent by Mr. A. Bishop,
Westley Hall Gardens, Bury St. Edmunds,
Suffolk.

Pea Carter's Daisy. — This is one of the very
best types of dwarf marrow Peas grown. It has
large pods containing seven to nine Peas, is a
heavy cropper, grows 18 inches in height, is an
excellent dry weather variety, and valuable as a
second early. Shown by Mr. G. Wythes, Syon
House Gardens, Brentford.

A dozen very fine Queen Pines with scarcely
any top were staged by Mr. Coomber, The
Hendre Gardens, Monmouth, the fruits being well
ripened, of bright colour, and very even all
through. They were much admired, and a silver
Banksian medal was awarded. Messrs. Fellows
and Ryder, Orpington, Kent, staged a dozen
plants of the new Duke of York Tomato laden
with large fruits of first-class quality and fine
colour. It is a most prolific kind, and certainly
one of the best new kinds since the advent of
Perfection. A silver Banksian medal was awarded.
Messrs. Laxton Bros, showed fifty dishes of
Strawberries, including most of their new varie-
ties, Leader and Monarch being specially fine.
Royal Sovereign was also gocd. The dishes of
Competitor, Commander, Waterloo, and Latest of
All were noteworthy, and mention must be made
of Unser Fritz, Admiral Dundas, Auguste Ni-
caise, Scarlet Queen, Kimberley, and some of
the Pine section.

From the society's garden, Chiswiek, Mr. Barron
staged trusses of growing fruits (about a dozen),
including some varieties rarely seen. Among
them we noted Princess Royal, Leader, Glengary,
Bothwell Bank, Dr. Vaillard, Acquisition, Sou-
venir deBossent and Dr. Morere. Mr. R. Gilbert,
Burghley Gardens, Stamford, showed seme re-
markable fruits of Royal Sovereign of high
quality, the flavour being all one could desire. A
cultural award was deservedly given. Mr. Collis,
Bollo Lane, Chiswiek, staged May Queen Straw-
berry in nice condition. Messrs. Cannell and
Sons, Swanley, sent very good Royal Sovereign ;
and Messrs. Rivers, Sawbridgeworth, sent nice
dishes of the Early Rivers Nectarine, frcm pot
trees grown in an intermediate house. Rarely
have so many Melons been staged, and, consider-
ing the favourable season, none were remarkable
for high flavour ; many were good, but not supe-
rior to existing varieties. Mr. G. Norman, Hat-
field House Gardens, Herts, showed large, bright
fruits of Hatfield Scarlet, somewhat like Blen-
heim Orange, deep flesh and well netted. A cul-
tural commendation was given. Mr. Mortimer,
Rowledge Nursery, Farnham, received a cultural
commendation for twenty-four very finely-netted,
medium-sized fruits of Eclipse, a variety which
received an award of merit last season. From Mr.
O. Thomas, Royal Gardens, Frogmore, came
the Duchess, a new white-fleshed kind, but over-
ripe. Mr. G. Wythes, Syon House, Brentford,
sent two seedlings — Champion, a fine fruit not
quite ripe, and the Gem, a small pale green va-
riety. Mr. Bishop also sent other seedlings in
addition to that certificated. Mr. Brooks, Red
Rue, Andover, Mr. Johnson, Duffield House Gar-
dens, Stoke Pogis, Mr. Ashton, Glossop Hall
Gardens, Derby, Mr. Ward, Longford Castle
Gardens, Salisbury, also sent seedling Melons ;
the last-named sent one named the Earl, which
was given an award late last year.

Vegetables occupied considerable space. Messrs.
Veitch, of Chelsea, sent a very fine collection of
Cabbages and Peas. The Cabbnges had good
compact heads, the best being Ellam's Dwarf,
Nonpareil Improved, Little Pixie, very nice for
table ; Veitch's Maincrop, a market form, and
very large ; Early Offenham, a conical variety
Earliest of All, Veitch's Matchless, Early Dwar;
York, very compact habit ; Early Market, Enf
field Market, Large York, a loose kind, an.

June 29, 1895.]

THE GAKDEN.

467

Hardy Green Curled. Peas in eighteen varieties
were shown with dates of sowing and gathering,
the earliest vaiieties being Exonian, Veitch's
Early Marrow, Laxton'a Alpha, Dr. Hogg, and
Chelsea Gem, these being fit the middle of June
from outside sowing ; Wm. Hurst, Gradus, Ex-
celsior, and William I. were also good. Mr.
Wjthes also showed Peas, the varieties being
Stratagem, very tine ; Webb's Senator, a new
variety with a full pod, much curled ; and Daisy,
already described ; also a very nice lot cf 'Veitch's
Early Forcing Cauliflower, with medium sized,
pure white, firm, compact heads, grown in thir-
teen weeks from time of sowing the seed. Mr.
Ward sent a nice collection of Peas, receiving a
cultural award, the varieties being Daisy, Strata-
gem, Carter's Favourite, and Telephone. Messrs.
Mortimer and Thomas sent new Cucumbers,
which the committee desired to be sent to Chis-
wick for trial next year. Messrs. Carter, High
Holborn, sent two varieties of Spinach, the new
Carter's, given an award last meeting, and the
Longstanding, an older form, to show the diffe-
rence in the two varieties. Mr. G. W. Cummins
sent Runner Bean Ne Plus Ultra grown in pots.
The new Excelsior Tomato, given an award last
meeting, was again shown by Mr. Corbett, Mul-
grave Castle Gardens, Whitby. Mr. R. Filkin,
Christchurch, sent Potato Queen of the Earlies,
Early Laxton and Maggie being sent for com-
parison. The Queen is very early, and has a
good tuber, but no award was given, as the best
test is a trial at Chiswick.

premiums. This amount would be considerably
augmented by the Midsummer and Michaelmas
business. No claims had yet been received. The
capital had been invested in Government stock ;
twenty-six agents had already been appointed in
the United Kingdom. The corporation was being
worked with economy and was making good pro-
gress. The directors would take no remuneration
in any year when less than 5 per cent, on the
subscribed capital was made, and then only such
Bum as the shareholders in general meeting voted
to them. From the tone of the meeting the re-
port was considered very satisfactory. Messrs.
Harry J. Veitch, James Sweet and James Webber
were appointed trustees, and the meeting closed
with a unanimous vote of thanks to the chairman.

The lecture was by Professor Henslow, who
kindly undertook to till the vacancy caused by
the unavoidable absence of Mr. W. T. Thistle-
ton-l)yer. He greatly interested a numerous
audience with interesting facts and peculiarities
concerning many of the plants and flowers ex-
hibited that day. He alluded to the great Cactus
family as an instance of plants adapting them-
selves to their environment, for although the
family contained many species of wide botanical
differences, there was a wonderful similarity of
aspect about them as a whole, and necessary, be-
cause either by their tough skin, or armour of
spines, or mantle of hairs, they prevented the
evaporation of their own juices and were able to
subsist in the aridity of their surroundings. Even
representatives of the Spurge family took the
same succulent habit of growth in desert regions,
and in outward aspect looked a different race of
plants to the Spurges of our own woods. He showed
coloured illustrations of the earliest types of the
tuberous Begonia and compared them with the
latest varieties shown that day, remarking inci-
dentally that no future controversy could ever
arise such as has been going on regarding the
origin of the florist's Cineraria, as we knew the
early types, and all the work that had been done
with them was chronicled. The present type of
Gloxinia that found most favour in gardens was
that with a regular erect flower, which again was
of garden origin, but represented, he thought, the
reappearance of some latent trait, as botanically
what we know as the wild type with a drooping
flower had only four stamens, and was an irregular
flower which cultivation had restored to regu
larity. Many other flowers he discoursed upon in
the same pleasant and instructive way. More lec-
tures of this sort might with advantage be given,
alternating with those confined to one specific
subject, if we may judge by the cordial way in
which this one was received.

The Nurserymen, Market Gardeners'
and General Hailstorm Insurance Corporation,
Limited. — The statutory general meeting of this
corporation was held at Simpson's, Limited,
Strand, on Friday, June 21, 1895. The chair-
man (Mr. Harry J. Veitch) reported that the
shares had been applied for freely, thus providing
perfect security for policy-holders. Though esta-
blished only four months, 100 policies had been
issued on 0,7:20,832 square feet of glass, valued at
£80,542 2s. 8d., and producing £415 lis. 8d. in

Notes of the Week.

Anemone rivularis is a fine summer Ane-
mone to which all who have a little bog or a moist
nook in the rock garden should give a place. At
Kew it is flowering strongly and well in quite an
elevated position, its stout flower-stems nearly 2
feet in height, freely branched, and bearing many
white flowers.

Mertensia virginica. — On page 447 " M. P."
calls attention to the above plant. At the present
time M. virginica is quite dormant, while a few
yards away Mertensia sibirica and M. paniculata
are in bloom. I should certainly say that the
plant mentioned in The Garden June 8 and 15
must be either M. sibirica or M. paniculata. —
W. H.

Wahlenbergia graminifolia is found to
be one of the easiest of this little race of Bell-
flowers to grow at Kew, and it is now flowering
there. The plant has a centre tuft of narrow
grassy leaves and prostrate flower-stems which
radiate from the centre, each terminated by a
dense head of purple blue flowers clustered like
those of Campanula glomerata.

Escallonia Phillipiana has withstood the
past winter in the open at Kew. It is one of
the hardiest species, much 1 ardier than those
commonly planted, namely, E. macrantha and E.
rubra. It makes a pretty mass or group on the
turf, throwing out its shoots in a pretty arching
way, clothing them in an abundance of small deep
green leaves, and now the shoots are wreaths of
tiny white blossoms like sprays of tiny Daisies.

Moltkia petrsea is a pretty dwarf shrub now
in flower in the rock garden at Kew. In growth
and leafage it so much resembles Lavender, that
one might take it for such when not in flower.
Now, however, it is most distinct from Lavender
and everything else, the little bushes covered with
flower-spikes. The floweis, disposed in dense
short spikes on stems about 6 inches long, are of
a deep blue colour with exserted stamens of a
reddish hue.

An abnormal Foxglove. — I am sending you
by post a Foxglove which has such a curious
blossom, that I think you may possibly like to see
it. I have had two, if not three, other Fox-
gloves with similar blossoms at the top of the
spikes, but none nearly so large as this one, which
is 3J inches in diameter. I raised these Fox-
gloves from seeds. The great majority have
come up with the ordinary blossoms only. —
Leonora Scott, Malabar House, St. Albans.

Brassia verrucosa. — I send you a raceme of
Brassia verrucosa cut from a plant bearing eight-
een similar racemes with fifteen to sixteen blooms
on a raceme. I also send you a couple of blooms
of Cypripedium barbatum from a plant bearing
forty blooms. I also enclose two blooms of a
Cypripedium with a nice whitish dorsal sepal.
The plant is bearing thirty-six blooms, and makes
a handsome specimen. — J. F. Wilkinson, Wnjh-
lands, Amberley.

Solatium Wendlandi. — A climbing plant
that will succeed under the arid conditions essen-
tial for the growth of Cacti must surely be useful

in many gardens. Ceitaiuly none could fail to
admire this magnificent plant as now flowering in
the Cactus house at Kew, where it is trained to
the roof, and produces an amazing profusion of
richly coloured blooms. A coloured plate of this
plant was given in The Garden of Feb. 1, 1890,
p. 104.

Eremostachys laciniata is a vigorous peren-
nial belonging to the Sage family, but looking like
a cut leaved Acanthus with its robust erect spike,
of which the upper half is crowded with flowers.
The flowers are of a greenish colour streaked with
pale purple, but the conspicuous part of them is
the lower petal or lip, which is of a rich dark
velvet-crimson hue. It would be well worth while
growing it in shade to preserve its colour till it
faded naturally.

Epilobium obcordatum.— This is a native of
the Rocky Mountains and a pretty plant for the
rock garden, dwarfed doubtless because it was
essential to do so to adapt itself to its natural en-
vironment, but preserving at the same time all its
beauty of blossoms. It has a low spreading habit
of growth, the shoots clothed with short broad
leaves and the large flowers of a bright rosy crim-
son colour, each petal deeply cut into two lobes.
It is flowering at Kew.

Genista virgata.— This pretty Broom^ is
rarely seen outside of botanic gardens. At Kew
it is now flowering freely, and established plants
appear to have suffered little from the past
winter. A mass of it has a lovely effect that is
visible from a considerable distance, as the older
specimens in the group are more than 12 feet
high and have thick tree-like stems. The flowers
in size and rich colour resemble those of Cytisus
racemosus, but the racemes are shorter and borne
freely.

Syringa japonica now flowering at Kew is
a very graceful species, and if it will only flower
as freely as other Lilacs it will be a most valuable
sort for succession, as it is even now only opening
some of its flowers, whilst those of all other kinds
have long faded. The flowers are tiny individu-
ally, cream-white, with exserted yellow stamens
that give a peculiar charm to the plant, but what
they lack in size they make up in numbers, being
thickly disposed in large, much-branched ra-
cemes that hang lightly upon the bush.

Rcsa Brut o liana.— Anyone searching for a
beautiful single Rose that would climb a tree or
quickly cover any erection about the garden would
not long be undecided if he saw the great plant of
this Rose near the succulent house at Kew. Its
main stem, trained to or grown up with other
things, must be nearly 20 feet high, and it
throws out in all directions long, arching shoots,
having soft grey-green leaves and myriads of
flowers in thick clusters. Their effect in the
bright sun, the air laden with their fragrance, is
something to remember, but by no means possible
to describe.

Rhododendron cinnabarinum.— We have
some tine plants of Rhododendron cinnabarinum
in flower, and I thought you might like a few
blooms from a plant about 10 feet or 17 feet high
with some hundreds of flowers on it. — R. G. Lakes,
"Prevarrick, St. Austell.

*„* This Rhododendron was figured in The
Garden of March, 1879. It also does well in the
neighbourhood of Dorking, and many fine plants
exist in the west of England, but we think it is
hardly suitable for general cultivation, as it un-
doubtedly wants a warm and sheltered situation.
In such a place, however, it is well worthy of a
trial by those who are fond of this class of plants.
-Ed.

Water Lilies at Kew.— One of the most in
teresting houses at Kew is that devoted to Water
Lilies and other aquatic plants. At the present
time there is a fine display of colour from many
flowers of N. Lotus and N. stellata, in white, crim-
son and deep blue shades. We saw N. Marliacea
carnea and N. Leydekeri flowering in the same
tank, but scarcely happy there, the former not
nearly so large as with us in the open air ; and

4G8

THE GARDEN

[June 29, 1895.

N. Leydekeri seemed to lack that glow of bright
colour which in the open water makes it so visible
and brightly effective, even seen from a consider-
able distance. There are now so many noble
hardy kinds that they ought to be represented at
Kew growing in some open water where, without
the least doubt, they would have thousands of
admirers who as yet know them not in their
newer and richly-coloured forms.

Vegetables at York show.— Some grand
vegetables were shown at York on the 17th in
competition for the prizes offered by Messrs.
Webb and Sutton and Sons. In Mr. Crawford's
collections, which won the first prize in both
classes, that fine old Pea Stratagem was seen in
grand form, it being of a much deeper green
colour than the larger pods of Sutton's A 1 shown
by Mr. Mclndoe. The good old VValcheren
Cauliflower was well represented, as were also
Canadian Wonder Bean, Leviathan Onion, Market
Favourite Carrot, the last being of large size for
the time of year and of a bright colour. Sensa-
tion and Reading Perfection Tomatoes were also
conspicuous in the various exhibits, and a fine
bundle of late Argenteuil Asparagus gave great
strength to one of Mr. Crawford's collections.

Notes from Chester.— It is Midsummer day.
It looks it and feels like it without reference to the
calendar. If at the early part of the spring-time
there were grounds for the assertion that the
season was late, Flora, impressed with the fact,
seemed to quicken her pace, and everything is
brought up to line by the time we have reached
the longest day. The flowers and leafage every-
where are abundant and beautiful. It is not the
sense of sight alone that is gratified. Amongst
the Philadelphus bushes to-day the perfumery of
Nature forces itself upon the attention. In wit-
ness whereof place the two sprays beside you as
you take them from the box of specimens just
posted to you. Philadelphus hybridus Lemoinei is,
as you will see, a beautiful variety of the Mock
Orange, whilst Philadelphus microphallus is as
dainty a piece of graceful combination as you
could wish to see. Then the Clerodendron, with
its creamy Lychnis-like flowers, its inflated calyx
like a piece of carved coral, and its long graceful
stamens. What more delightful aroma could be
found ? For form, too, the Zenobias, seem to
combine the characters of the Erica with all
that is daintily beautiful in the chaste bells
of the Lily of the Valley ; are not these
each charming in their way ! We send you
it. pulverulenta and Z. cassinifolia. There are
some lovely Deutzias out now. The Piide of
Rochester, a grand double-tlowering variety, is
enclosed, and may be taken as a representative of
some other plants of this beautiful family flowering
so freely. The Clematises are just coming to the
front in their rich clusters about the pillars that

afford them the support they need. The beautiful
form integrifolia var. Davandi we send today.
Its rich purple is most effective against its
healthy profusion of entire leaved foliage. Escal-
Ionia Phillipiana we also send a splendid piece of
in pink and white with foliage suited to its floral
arrangement. — Dick sons.

Public Gardens.

Plumstead Common fired.— For the greater
part of yesterday a fire was raging on Plumstead
Common. The flames broke out about half-past
ten in the morning, and spread with such rapidity,
that in less than a couple of hours five acres of
Furze and bushes were blazing. It was not until
evening that the fire burnt itself out. This is the
third fire which has occurred on the common dur-
ing the present week.

Brockwell Paik. — The Parks Committee re-
commended that £1470 should be expended in
the construction and drainage of footpaths, the
formation of two ornamental ponds, shrubberies,
and a rivulet, the erection of rustic bridges and
wire-fencing to the paths, and boundary fencing
and gatesatArlingford Road. The land upon which
this new entrance is to be erected will shortly be
in possession of the council, and the woik will be
commenced without delay. Opposition to the
scheme came from Dr. Longstaff, Mr. John Burns,
and one or two other members, the ground of
objection being that the cost was excessive. As
chairman of the Parks Committee Mr. Fletcher
showed that this was not the case, the proposed
expenditure being quite within the scale of pre-
vious undertakings of the same kind. The council
adopted the Parks Committee's recommendation
by a substantial majority.

The weai her in West Herts. — During the

present month there have been as yet only five days
in which the highest temperature in shade has
been below the mean for the time of year, but, on
the other hand, most of the nights have been more
or less cold for the season. The three hottest days
were the 9th, 23rd and 25th, when the readings in
shade rose respectively to 80°, 80° and 79°. At
the depth of 1 foot the soil temperature stands at
68°, which is 7° in advance of the June average,
and 5° warmer than at the same date last year.
The total fall of rain for the last six weeks amounts
only to about a quarter of an inch ; whereas a sea-
sonable fall for the same period would exceed 3
inches. The ground is exceedingly dry ; in fact,
not a drop of water has come through the heavy
soil gauge for a month or through the light soil
gauge for six weeks. The air also still continues
remarkably dry. On the 20th the difference at 3

p.m. between the dry and wet bulb readings
amounted to 17°, and on the 25th to 20°. The
well-known Hybrid Perpetual Rose Marie Bau-
mann first flowered on the 24th, or, with the ex-
ception of 1893, earlier than in any of the seven
previous years. — E. M., Berkhamsted.

COLLECTING HARDY PLANTS.
To the Editor of The Garden.
Sik, — I write to know if there are other amateurs,
caring for herbaceous and alpine plants, who
would like to join and send out a collector to some
of the still unexplored parts of the world.
Nurserymen cannot afford to do this except in the
case of Orchids and similar high-priced greenhouse
things. But if fifty of us were to subscribe £10
each we could probably do anything we wanted in
the Southern Andes, Alaska, or anywhere else we
chose. Of course it would not pay from a business
point of view, but it would give us a world of in-
terest and pleasure raising the new seeds and
bulbs, and would almost certainly give us a few
things which would permanently enrich English
gardens. I write in great ignorance of this matter.
It may be the expenses would be much more than
I think. It would be very interesting to hear
what those who know about such enterprises can
tell us. Anyhow, I would gladly risk £10 myself.
And if it turns out that there are others similarly
minded, we might arrange for a meeting in London
and see if we can knock the idea into feasible
shape. Arthur K. Bclley.

Went Kirhy, near Birkenhead.

WINTER AND SPRING PICTURES.
Award of Prizes.

First prize, 10 guineas, is awarded to Miss Will-
mott, Warley Place, Great Warley, Essex, for
over 200 good photographs of beautiful gardens
and plants.

Second prize, 5 guineas, to the Countess of An-
nesley, Castle wellan, Co. Down, Ireland.

Equal third prize, 3 guineas, to Mr. S. W. Fitz-
herbert, Lanscombe House, Torquay, and Mr.
J. C. Smith, Nandana, Penrith.
Extra Prizes.

Miss Gaisford, Offington, Worthing. Xanthc-
ceras sorbifolia, group of Snowdrops, Prinos
glaber.

Mr. E. H. Woodall, St. Nicholas House, Scar-
borough. Narcissus princeps, Galanthus plicatus,
Scilla campanulata.

Mr. Thomas Allott, 110, Shaw Heath, Stock-
port. Two views of Tulips in Ashton Park.

Mr. C. Metcalf, Mill House, Halifax. Rhodo-
dendron Lady Alice Fitzwilliam, Arabis montana.

Rev. D. J. Gerrard, The Rectory, Rathangan,
Co. Kildare. Apple tree in bloom.

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