UMASS/AMHERST 312066 0333 3074 3 Nr':^ *^^*w>" %^r\ ..■-^3^ ^J^'i-.^^'' ir f LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE N O .__?-._^33_Q____ DATE, jo r_i9_Qi5__ souRCE-_Golie^e^ _^u^-r\(is_._.. The Gardbk.] [J^'l^ 1> ^^'^^- The Garden.] [JCLT 1, 190& ^ 7^^jeet.AeJ^ AN Illustrated Weekly Journal OF Horticulture in all its Branches. Founded by W. Robinson in 1871. VOL. LXVll. MIDSUMMER, 1905. LOU\CDOU\C- Office: 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W^.C. Published by "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C, and by GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 7-12, Southampton Street, Strand. The Garden.] [Joly 1, 1905. v.(.1 TO SIR JOHN T. D. LLEWELYN, BART., F.R.S., THE SIXTY-SEVENTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN Is dedicated. Vol. LXVII.] [" The Garden," July 1, 1905. INDEX A. Abies nobilis, diseased, 335 Acacia cullriformis, 119 ; leprosa, 99 Acacias, 241 Acfena taicrophylla, 37 Acetylene gas, refuse of, 110, 142, 191, 217, 349 Aconite, Winter, 67 Aconites, Winter, in Midlothian, 114 Adonis amurensia fl.-pL, 207 Aerides, 91 Agricultural Education and Forestry Exhi- bition, 1905, 217 Almond trees, pruning, 260 Aloe as a national flower, the, 84 Alpine house, for and against the, 199, 282; in January, the, 70 ; plants for, 154 Alpines, dipping well for, 300 ; slugs among, 167 Alyasum, the lemon-coloured, 342 Amaryllis, 225; Belladonna, 137. 227; bulbs, imported, 110 ; seedling, 166, 227 America, a letter from, 178 American trees in England, 81 Ammonia, sulphate of, 212, 275 Anchusa, 133; italica Dropmore var,, 21, 56, 57, 159, 177, 204, 235 Ancrum Road Gardens, Dundee, the, 4 Androsace lanuginosa, 260 Anemone, 205 ; alpina, growing:, 228 ; blanda in the border, 219 ; flowers from Bourne, 234; Hepatica, 179; japonica alba and rosea, 28 ; St. Brigid, 323 Anemones, St. Brigid, 340 ; sowing seeds of, 2S5 Angraecum eburneum, 107 ; pertusum, 107; seaquipedale, 30, 107 Annals of the little red house, 279, 295, 325, 337 Annual flowers, colour combinations with, 115, 238 ; for small borders, 168 Annuals, 169, 289; the beauty and value of, 65 ; hardy and half-hardy, 46 ; hardy, and their colour combinatious, 271 ; sowing, 76; and biennials, 333 Anthuriums, the best, 48 Antirrhinum, 7; glutinosum, 14 Antirrhinums, the beauty of, 236 ; giant, 189 Ants on lawns, 108 ; destroying, 349 Apple AUington Pippin, 70 ; awards and the Royal Horticultural Society, 235 ; Beauty of Bath, 349 ; Bismarck, 70, 196 ; Chelms- ford Wonder, 118; Christmas Pearmain, 70; the "coreless," 265; Cornish Gilli- flower, 14, 83; Fenn's Wonder, 17, 315 ; Oascoyne's Scarlet, 12 ; the Gravensteiii in Ontario, 327 ; James Grieve, 70 ; Eing of the Pippins and canker, 29 ; Langley Pippin, 70; new. Lord Stradbroke, 83; Norfolk Beaufln, 248; new, parentage, 43, 84; Peasgood's Nonsuch, 117, 159; Roundaway Magnum Bouum, 14, 83, 196 ; Rosemary Russet, 67 ; dessert, Rushock Pearmain, 197 ; Rymer, 149 ; Smart's Prince Arthur, 348 ; Spencer seedless, the, 251 ; the Speneer seedling, a fraud, 258 ; stocks, 183 ; Striped Beeflng, 197 ; Sturmer Pippin, 12 ; supply, our, 176 ; tree stems, cleansing, 154 ; tree unsatis- factory, 169 ; trees, diseased, 307 ; Vicar of Beighton, 349 ; Winter Peach, 348 Apples, the best, 103, 127 ; for small gardens, 15 ; British v. Colonial, 78 ; English V. American, 126, 146, 155, 176, 190, 200, 201, 220, 231, 247, 251, 283, 315, 543 ; Bramley's Seedling, 343 ; the Calville in South Hants, 349 ; the Cal- ville, and their value, 71 ; 'canker in, 92 ; and their cultivation— tree planting, ■329 ; early dessert, 59 ; English grading and marketing, 2S2 ; for small gardens, 146 ; late-kept, 219 ; late, two valuable, 348; new, of proved merit, 70 ; Norfolk ' Beaufln and Annie Elizabeth, 200; out \ of season, when are? 144, 191 ; profitable : and unprofitable, 237, 274 ; twelve for pyramids, 63 ; and Pears, maiden trees of, 139 Apricots, 46, 257 ; gumming in, 196 Aquatics, ifcc, fountain basin for, 32 | Arabis, a new, 159 ; double, 313 ; double : white, 309 Artichoke, Jerusalem, 62, IDS ; globe, 241 I Arundinaria nobilis, 191 ; flowering, 234 I Asparagus, 107, 260 ; bed, how to make an, 30; forcing and dry summers, 108 ; plumosus, salt for, 184 Aspidistra, 260 Aster Stracheyi, 338 Asystasia scandens, 233 Aubrietia Al, 232 ; Perkinsii, 344 Winter Gem, 84 Aucuba, the best, 48 Australian rosarians, 4 Autumn tints in the west, 27 Auricula, cross -fertilising the, 285; D^ff'odil, 270 ; the development of the, 189 Auriculas, 01, 323 ; border, 101 ; Carna- tions and Picotees, show, 97 ; repotting, 293 ; striped and others, 21 Azalea indica, 137 ; obtusa, 143, 190 Azaleas, 333 ; Ghent, 338 : hardy Chinese and Japanese, propagating, 184 Baden-Biden, notes from, 218 Balsam, the, 31 Bimboo, the Heavenly, 174 Bamboos in the outdoor garden, 5, 44, 78 Barberry, the, 12 Basic slag as manure dressinsr, 167 ' Beans, Broad, 31, 135, 321 ; French, 31, 91, 209, 225, 321 ; Runner, 31, 273 ; Scarlet Runner, 107 ; and Peas, 13 Bedding, carpet, 256 ; plants, 61, 321 Bee Balm and bees, 157 Beet, a red-foliaged Turnip-rooted, 242 ; early. Carter's Crimson Ball, 182 ; for late use, a good, 181 Beetroot, 31, 225 Begonia culture, 137, 244 ; gigantea car- minata, 112 ; Gloire de Lorraine, note on, 19 ; Lafayette, 340 ; new, Triomphe de I'Eit, 113; Rex, 95; seed, raising, 110; tubers, 209 ; bedding, 107 ; worthiana, 28 Begonias, 121, 2S9 ; ornamental-leaved, 281 ; six good winter, 14 ; tuberous, 23, 80, 121 ; winter-flowering, 32, 257 Bellflower, the Peach-leaved, 255 Berberis Darwinii, 298 ; as a hedge, 313 ; japonica, 85 ; nepalensin, 174 ; vireaoens, 299 Birds, a plea for the, 83, 185 ; mischievous, 206 Black Currant disease, 307 Bog garden, making a, 168 ; plant, a valu- able, 18 Bone-meal, 169 Bones into bone-meal, 94 Bordeaux mixture, 244 Border, the mixed, in English gardens, 72 ; plants, 48 Boronia megasbigma, 64 Bouvardias, 91. 306, 321 Bramble, the Nootka, 255 Brassicas, 257 British Columbia, flowers in, 78; Eisb Africa, a journey in, 34 Broccoli, 334 Brodiseas, the, 202 Broom, the TenerifEe, 281 Browallia speciosa major, 297 Brussels Sprout The Bullet, 338 Brussels Sprouts, 31, 76, 321 Bryanthus empetriformis, 313 Bulbs, 13 ; for planting (March), 205 ; in boxes, 166 ; in water, 94 Bullfinch in the garden, the, 157, 191, 200, 204, 220, 252, 2S1, 329; and other biids, 269 Cabbage Sutton's Flower of Spring, 327 ; Webb's Emperor, 144 Cabbages, 44, 76, 334 ; Chinese, 95, 117, 128, 176 ; early, 290 Cacti and Orchids, 62 ; soil for, 124 Caladiums at Messrs. J. Laing and Son's, 249 Calanthe seed, 195 Calanthes, 30, 165, 195 ; deciduous, 181 ; d., and their hybrids, 348 Calceolaria Burbidgei, 84 ; integrifolia, 27 ; a new, Jeffery's hybrid, 280; violacea, 249, 316 Calceolarias, 257, 260, 348 Calla sethiopica, 315 Camellia leaves, fungus on, 274 ; reticu- lata, 157 ; seedling, 100 ; unsatisfactory, 124 Camellias, 181 i Campanula, early-flowSring, a valuable, 43; hybrida Fergusoni, 126 ; isophylla alba, 89 ; persicifolia, 255, 341 ; portenschlagi- ana bavarica, 14 ; pyramidalis, 6L ; white, for carpeting, 292 Campanulas, 151 Cannas. 61, 273 ; wintering, 48 Canterbury Bells and Sweet Peas, 23 Capsicums, 121 Carbon, bisulphide of, 228 Carnation George Ma(iuay, 39 ; growing, 211 ; soil, a perfect, 153 ; tree, a new, 149 Carnations, 28, 123 ; border, in pots, 314 ; diseased, 167; for pots, 318; in pots, 168 ; in winter, 267 ; Marguerite, 56, 228; as cut flowers, 117, 146. 160 ;' non- bursting, 116, 146, 160, 172, 203, 267; and Picotees show, 160 ; Picotees, and Auriculas show, 97 ; sterilising soil for, 153 ; tree, 77, 129, 204, 252 ; growing, 243; some bjautiful, ISS ; winter- Howering, 209 Carpet bedding, plants for, 350 Carrots, 31, 151, 181 ; early, 47 Cassiope tetraguna, 281 Cat as gardener, the, 283, 342 Caterpillars at roots of rough grass, 197 I Cattleya bowringiana lilacina, 45 ; house, I the, 107, 257 Cauliflowers, 45, 76, 121, 181, 290, 321 ; and BrocculJ, 225 Ceanothus, 123 ; veitchianus, 232 Celery, 45, 151, 257 Chelsea Physic Garden, 265 Cherries, 76, 225 ; Morello, 334 ; on wood fence, 124 Chervil, 121 Chicory as a garden flower, 130 Child's garden, the, 54 Chimonanthus fragrans, 191 China, wanderings in, 310 Chionodoxa nana, 216 Chionodoxas, the, 254 Chrysanthemum Autumn Gold, 17, disease, 336 ; Framfield Pink, 248 ; new, a valu- able, 36; note, a, 43; shelter, 184; shows, lessons from. 13, 102, 129, 203; soil, insect pests in, 322 ; Tuxedo, 84 Chrysanthemums, 28, 62, 151, 188, 321 ; after flowering, 16 ; early-flowering, 135 ; conference on, 19 ; propagating, 205 ; for exhibition, when to atop the plants, 276 ; how to grow twelve good blooms on decorative plants, 292 ; in early February, 100 ; in the open border, 16 ; Japanese, crimson, 16; M. Henri Jacotot and Jeanne Delaux, 167 ; six easily-grown sorts for exhibition, 16 ; yellow varieties, 20 ; market, 35 ; outdoor planting, early- flowering varieties, 329 ; propagating, for next year's flowers, 29 ; six, useful for ; cutting, J5 ; soil for, 29; twelve good ■ early and mid-seaaon, 292; waysof show- ing, 43 Chysis, 165 Cimicifuga simplex, 8 Cineraria, leaf-spoilt, SO ; stellata, 302 Cinerarias, 166; a new strain of, 173; planting out of, 93 Citrus, hardy, 339 I Clarkias for early-summer flowering, 314 t Clematis, 241 ; calycina, 84 ; indivisa, 282 ; not flowering, 336 ; Lucie Lenioine, 340 ; i raontana, 9X) ; failing, 336 ; in Somerset- shire, 98 ; vanilla-scented, 157 ; a winter- I flowering, 84 Cllanthus puniceus and its white variety, ' 302 I Climbers, 27, 347 ; hardy, 109 ; hot-house, beautiful, 233 ; a place for, 7 ; for shade, 137 ; on trees, 32 j Clivia miniata, 248 I Club, East Anglian Horticultural, 277 ; the i Horticultural, 310 j Clydesdale, fruit trade, proposed railway for, 297 Cockchafer grub and Geraniums, 123 j Coelogyne cristata, 161, 333 ; culture of, ' 108 ; not flowering, 184 Ccelogynes, 107 Culfee tree, the Kentucky, 118 Calchicum montanum var. Ritchii, 104 Culeus, blue-flowered, the, 34, 93 ; thyr- ; soideu3, 165, 305 Cjlour of flowers, deepening the, 335 ; outdoors in winter, 19 ; plants to, 32 ; scheme, a, 10 Conifers, colour in, 63 ; and shrubs, dwarf, 333 ; removing branches from, 380 [ Conservatory and greenhouse, 13 Corylopsia apicata, 173 j Cosmos as a pot plant, 103 ; bipinnatus, 61, 173 j Cotoneaster angustifolia, 24, 105 i Cottage garden competitions, 139 " Country Day by Day, The," 197 " Cowslip ball, the," 297 Cowslips in the wild garden, 293 Creepers for wall, 110 Crinum Rattrayi. 239 Crocus, a rare, 23; Chilian, the, 50; chry santhus var. Warley, 163 ; obesus, 213 Sieberi, 143 Crocuses, beautiful, 172 Crops, rotation of, 135 Crowea aneuatifolia, 234 Croweas, the, 297 Cucumber, new, Aristocrat, 334 ; and Vine leaves diseased, 308 Cucumbers, 165, 289, 321 ; in greenhouse, 94 Currants, Red, White, and Black, 46 Cyclamen, 305 ; a hardy, 110; flowers, Per- sian, 188; from the open ground, 312; hedertefolium, 213 ; byemale. 71 Cyclamens, hardy, 37, 83, 115, 159, 235, 236 ; fiom seed, 94 ; Persian sweet-scented, 165 Cymbidium culture, 223; lowianum, 281 Cymbiiiiums, 322 Cyprlpediura Alcibiade8,17; a new, 105,376 ; Mum var. giganteum, 122 ; Biron Schib- der, 196 ; fairieanum, 306; inaigne, 62; soil for, 153; Memoria Juninghamia;, 17 ; Mrs. W. Mostyn, 121; Olivia, 122; venustum meaauresianum, 106 ; west- fieldense. 17; William Lloyd superbum, ' 196 Cypripediums, 45, 62 ; three striking, 121 Cytisu9 BeaniJ, 371 ; fllipes, 281 ; (Labur- num) Vossi, 299 Daffodil Baylor Hartland, 316; fly, the 249; poisoning, 173 Daffodils, 212 ; arranging, 146; disappear- ing, 146, 186 ; early, from Ireland, 166 ; fasciation in, 201,316, 371 ; from seed, 300; ' gold medal, at the Birmingham show, 299 ; in the time of, 253 ; trumpet, j perfection of shape in, 248 ; white, 254 ; origin of our ancient, 231 Dahlias, 46, 225, 321 ; Cactus, protecting, I 130; for cutting, 212; garden, the best ! 217 Daisy Alice, 339 j Daisies, double, from seed, 71, 104; on lawn, 96 ; red and white, 48 Damsons and Apples, 110 I Daphne, a beautiful, 217 ! Dean Hole Memorial Fund. 263 ; Dendrohium Falconerii, 305 ; nobile, 138, I 153, 282 ; PhalaeQopsis, 305 ; wardianum 333 Dendrobiums, 30, 151, 209, 273 Deutzias, some pretty, 371 Dianthus Emilie Pare, 339 Dickson and Sons', Messrs. Alex., a vis to, 30, 47, 6I>, 78 Dibble v. trowel, 241 Dimorphotheca Ecklonis, 4 Diplacua glutinosus, growing, 336 Donegal, early flowers in, 126 Dracsenas, propagating, 48 Dryaa, the, 39 E. Eckford, Henry, testimonial, 312 Edgings, Box, 273 ; hardy, 46 Edinburgh parks, the new buildings for the, 200 Elders and plants beneath them, 212 Endive, 60 Epidendrums, 2S9 Eremurus, the cultivation of, 340 Erica gracilis nivalis. 19; hybrida Veitchii, 293; lusitanica,32S ; niediterranea, 313 hybrida, 50, 149, 173, 174 Ericas and Epacris, 181 Erigeron Coulterj, 212 Eriostemon myoporoides, 226 ; neriifolius in the open, 300 Eriostemons, 226 Eucalyptus flcifolia, 15 Eucharis leaves destroyed, 335 Eugenia I'gni, 252 Euonymus europseua, 204 ; golden, on a wall, 157 Eupatorium ianthinum, 143 ; petiolare, 143, 173 Eapatoriums, 273 Euphorbia fulgens(syn. E. jacquinifeflora), 14 Eustoma russellianum, 192 Evergreens, 107; golden-leaved, 68; in pots, 211 ; trimming, 137 Evesham gardeners in France, 56, 57, 98 Exacum macranthum, 95 F. *' Familiar Wild Flowers." 259 Fantin-Latour's flower paintings, 142 X^^fO VI. INDEX. [" The Garden," July 1, 1905. Fern fronds, diseased, 32 ; the Hard, 343 ; a new, 327 ; the Suft Shield, 79 ; the Stag'e-tiorn, 79, 252; grown in a roonj, 236 Fernery, 291 ; outdoor, 1S4 Ferns, 121, 137, 259; hardy, 174 ; in case, 13S ; male, the king of the, 5 ; new, 20 Field mice, destroying, 236 Fig tree not fruiting, 197 ; Pingo de Mel, 274 Figs, 76, 209, 321 ; in pots, 121 Filchia speciosa, lOLi Flora and Sylva, 322 Flower border, 213 ; farming, 95 ; garden, 48 ; growing in Cdliforuia, commercial, 36 ; show, how to start a, 13S Flowers, brightness withonr, 30 ; dark, 124; English names for, 283 ; and fruit, arranging, 9, 20 : for hanging baskets, 335 ; from Monkslown, 50 ; of mystery, 21 ; and novelists, 07 ; spring, in a Berk- shire garden, 339 ; for vases, 124 Fog, damage t>y, 4 ; effects of, on glass houses, 178; near London, the effect of, 72 Forget-me-not with double flowers, 331 Forsythia viridissima, 249 Frame, span, making a, 48 ; what can be done Willi a, OS Freesia bulbs, 211 Freesias, 165 ; and Tuberoses, 307 Fritillaria imperialis, 2C0 Frost, damage by, 320 Fruticetum vilmorinianura, 169 Fruit and flowers, arranging, 9, 20 ; blossom, protecting, 107 ; bottling, 291 ; buds and biids, 154; committee awards, Koyal Horticultural Sjciety's, 374 ; cul- ture, 117 ; in tubs, hardy, 33; Mr. Bun- yard on, 77 ; drying, 323 ; growing in Perthshire, 217; preseiving, 371; industry of Great, Britain, the, 67 ; preserving. German methods of, 60 ; prospects, 269 ; in the West, 295 ; trees, 124 ; forcing, 13 ; hardy, late planting of, 29; newly-planted, Vii, 289; over- cropped, 310 ; planting, 19 ; pruning newly-planted, 200; wall, and (lowers, 212 ; tying and training, 107 ; and kilchen garden-making, 04 Fruits, small, 124 Fuchsia, Rose of Castille, 127 Fuchsias, 91 Fund, Dean Hole Memorial, 263 ; Gar- deners' Eoyal Orphan, S2, 130, 170 G. Galinthus Cassaba Boydii, 173 ; plicatus Fraseri, 173 Galtonia candicans, 76 Garden, a neglected, 324 ; diary, my, 51 ; renovating a, 95 ; round about a, 36, 103, 157, 206, 253, 209, 284; small, planting, 133 ; a white, 171 ; work and health, 17 Gardener, training for a, 275 Gardeners, prizes for, 2, IS, 66 82 114 126, 142, 172, 186, 200, 250, 264, 280, 309, 326, 338 Gardening for Beginners— Alpine Pink, the, 2)0 ;Anemoneapennina, 240 ; the garden, 104 ; annual climbing plants, 250 ; annuals, a garden of, 134 ; hardy, thinning, 224 ; tender, 58 ; hardy and sowing, 134 ; some valuable easily- grown, 224 ; Antirrhinums for massing, 68; Apple trees, bush, ISO; old, 100; bush, pruning, 120 ; which fail on the Paradise stock, 208 ; late, good, 208 ; and Pears, top-dressing, 10 ; Apricots, seed- ling, 134 ; and Peaches, thirmiuE, 347 ; Arabis alblda, 240 ; Asparagus, planting, 224 ; Azalea", Belgium for, ISO ; after flowering, ISO; repotting, 250; Banks, how to plant on, 320 ; Beans, long-pod 42 ; runner, 304 ; bed or border, marking out outline of, 20 ; bedding plants, some little-known, 332 ; spring propagation of, 90; sub-tropical, 304; birds, trouble- some, 42 ; Black Currant mite, the, 58 • pruning the. 58; Box edgings, planting, 68; Briars, getting in, 20; Broom, the white, 347 ; Brussels .Sprouts, 42 288 • bulbs after flowering, 194 ; in the flower beds, 288: Carnation culture, difficulties of, 272; Canialiona, sowing, 272; and Pinks from seed, 5s ; and Hoses, Tea new beds for, 10; Castor Oil plant] Gibson's, 332; Celery trenches, making, 321 ; Celoaias as Oedding plants, 333 ■ Cherries, the Duke, on the Mahaleb stock, 20S ; Chrysanthemum maximum, 288; Chrysantbemnms, cuttings of ^i^■ Cineraria stellata, 250; Clematis Jack- manii, pruning, 134; Clematises, two I retty, 194 ; composts for potting, 42, 104 ; Coreopsis granditlora,28S ; creeping 1 lants for roc lery, 272 ; Cucumber frame ll.e, 332; Currants, black, pruning, 106 ■ ltd and white, pruning, 100 Gardening for Beginners— Cuttings, making, 208; suitable condi- tions for striking, 58; Daffodils as cut (lowers, 272 ; Delphinium, a good scarlet, 320; disbudding, ISO; drainage, bad, evils of, 74 ; depth of, 42 ; of plant pots, 42 ; edging plants, hardy, for iiuwer- beds, 90; Elder, new golden, llio 333; Erigeron speciosus superbus, 2SS ; Ferns in baskets, 208 ; Hart's - tongue, 180 ; Figs in the open air, 150; flowers under glass, 10 ; foliage plants for rooms, the best, 42; Foxgloves, white, 2SS ; fruit tree blossoms from frost in spring, protecting, l-'.O ; trees, canker in. 74 ; too deeply planted, 74 ; feeding. 347 ; moss and lichen on, 74 ; pruning and planting, 10; the spraying of. 42 ; wall, 332 ; youngj heading back, 224 ; fruits, thinning, 104; fungoid diseases and their remedies, 2S8 ; garden making, 150; neglected, renovating a, 42; g ir- dens, small, laying out, 240 ; gardening dilhculties, overcoming, 10; Geraniums, salmon - tinted, 333 ; tricolor, 333 ; Gladioli, planting, forcing, Ac, 104; glass houses, giving air to, 224; Goose- berries, pruning, 63, 74 ; grafting, success in, 150 ; Grapes for open air, 304 ; thinning, 240, 332 ; gravel paths, weedy, 20 ; green fly, killing, 194 ; Gjpsophila paniculata, 288 ; hardy plints for culling, 288; dividing, .58; Harebell, the Fragile, 272 ; hedge plants, some, 130 ; herbaceous border, the, 250j; hot-bed, making a, 42 ; hot-tieds, lo'; Humea elegans, 347 ; Ivies, bush, 134 ; Japanese Anemones, 224 ; Konigi inari- tinia, 106; Larkspurs, perennial, some, 320; Lavender and Rosemary, 74 ; lawn, new, making a, 58 ; from seeds, a, 58 ; lawns, weakly, improving, 6S ; weedy, 6S ; Lettuces under glass, 106; outside, 256 ; in succession, 256 ; Lilies for suburban gardens, 378 ; good, for amateurs, 224 ; in tubs, 346 ; planting, 20S ; lime in the garden, 42 ; Lobelias, hardy, herbaceous, 68 ; Loganberry, the, 10; Lupins, tree, 134; Mallow, the Rose, 346 ; manuring, Iti ; recent experi- ments in, 224 ; Marrows, Vegetable, early, 180; mice in the garden, 150; Mignonette, 134 ; Moneywort, the varie- gated, 346 ; Mulberry, propagating the, ISO ; mulching and its objects, 2SS ; Nicotiana, the new, 346; Nut growing in Kent, 224 ; walk, the, 224 ; Unions, about, 347 ; as an allotment crop, 208 ; protitable, 42 ; for proflt, ISO ; Peach trees, 240; bli3teron,194; Peaches, pruning, 20 ; and Nectarines, robber shoots in, 150; Pears, 120; and Apples, top-dressing, 10 ; Peas, depth of covei ing for, 74; early, 42; marrow, planting, 150, 208; protecting, 194; Phlo.xes, herba- ceous, 58 ; Pink, increasing the, 378 ; Pinks, edgings of, in gardens, 100 ; plan of the garden, value of a, 26 ; plant, shifting on a, 106 ; plants, Japanese, 1'20 ; pot, liquid stimulants for, 120 ; for rooms, 272, 320 ; sub-tropical, for the garden, 106; variousspecial sites for, 340; water-logged, 42; which resent dis- turbance, 58 ; planting, deep, evils of, 74 ; Potato experiments, 120 ; Potatoes, about, 333 ; some good, 42; for planting, 90 ; propagating, 42 ; seed, 10 ; sprout- ing, before planting, 100 ; pots, worms in, 42 ; potting, firm, value of, 42, 180 ; plants, 379 ; pressing work (January), 10 ; Primula obcoiiica, 150 ; propagation, spring, preparing for, 68; pruning, its object, 164 ; of fruit trees, summer 180 ; Pyrethrums, double and single, 28S ; Raspberries, pruning, 272 ; Red Currant, pruning the, 58; Rhubarb, Champagne, for forcing, 150; Rose Killarney, 304; Mar^chal Niel, canker in, 74 ; suckers, 347 ; Roses for arches, six, 100 ; climb- ing, pruning after planting, 208 ; Fairy, 346; mildew on, 194; own root, 74; pegging down, 224; preparing for, 20 •' pruning, 100 ; in spring from cuttings, propagating, 74 ; Tea, and Carnations, new beds for, 10 ; Rosemary and Laven- der, 74 ; Salvia patens, 332 ; Salvias, winter- flowering, propagating, "56- Scabiosacaucasica, 2S8 ; seedlings, plant- ingout, 340 ; the right treatment of, 2(iS ; seeds, depth of covering for, 104 ; shady spots, 250 ; shoots, foreright, ISO ; shrubs evergreen, some good, 194 ; Snake's -head, the, 3-20 ; soil, 10 ; depth of, 10 ; shallow, treatment of, 20 ; sowing, 104 ; Spinach substitutes, 250; Spirmi, a beautiful 347 ; Thunbergii, 260 ; Strawberries in April, planting, 250; blindness in, 120' perpetual, 2.50 ; sub-laterals, and how to deal with them, 224 ; sunny positions, 250 ; Sweet Peas, feeding, 321 ; good varieties, 100 ; in tubs, 20S, 321 ; some 106 ' Gardening for Beginners— Tamarix as a lawn plant, the, 134 • technical terms, some, 100 ; Tomatoes early, 90, 106 ; in the open air, 2s8 ; out- side, 266; tools, garden, the best, 10; trees, clothing bare spots under, 100 ; picturesque, some, 194 ; planting young in place of old ones, 20 ; wall, training, 90 ; and shrubs, newly-planted, watering, 346 ; pruning, the season for, 120 ; vege- tables or flowers, old seeds of, 26 ; Vines from eyes, 74 ; in pots, feeding, 256 ; open-air, 28s ; open-air, mildew on, 304 ; Violas, where to plant, 333 ; walls and fences, straight, ugliness of, 20 ; water- ing, 272; careful, 58; window decora- tion, outside, 90; plants, 120; winter flowers, some, 272 ; wireworms, 120 ■ how to destroy them, 320; wood ashes, the value of, 134 ; worm ■ casts on tennis lawn, 134 ; worms, more notes about 42 Garrya elliptica, 100, 143, 148, 167, 177 "01 220,236 ' ' Gas lime, use of, 110, 145 Gelsemium sempervirens, 228 Gentiana acaulis, 381 Gentianella, white, the, 340 Gentians, 168 Geraniums, bedding, 121 ; cactus, 327 • for winter flowering, 292 ' Gladioli, 181 Gladiolus, 205 ; in pots in the open, 168 Glass house in the shade, 124 Glastonbury, Thorn, the, 83 Gloxinias, 28 Gooseberries, 46, 184 Gooseberry leaves diseased, 350 ; saw-fly 110 •'' Gorse, establishing, 210 Grafting, 107 Grape Madresfield Court, 62, 197, 305 • White Lady Downe's, 147, 160, 348 Grapes, Muscat, early, 91, 34S ; spotted, 276 Grass, the, ;S40 ; dying in winter, 227 Greenhouse, amateur's, work in a, 73, 86, 182, 234 ; building a, 124 ; flower, a beautiful neglected, 234 ; plants for winter flowering, 34 ; seeds for, 02 Grouping, effective, 297 Guano as manure, 163 Guava, the, 200 Gunneras, dwarf, 39 H. Habenarias, 273 Haberlea rhodopensis, 71 Hair-bell, Ligurian, the white, 89 Hanging baskets, flowers for, 335 Hardy flower, a beautiful new, 21, 2S6 ; flowers from Ireland, 34 ; plant, a rare. 192 . i- . , Health and garden work, 17 Heath, a hybrid, 173 ; a new, 249, 298 ; a winter, 19; hardy, a valuable, 149; white, a beautiful. 19 Heaths, hardy, at Kew, 216 Hedge, planting a, 291 ; quick-growing, 137 Hedges for kitchen garden, 276 Helianthus cucumerifolius, 173 Heliotrope, 1,'iO Hepatica, a beautiful, 201 Hepaticas, 158 Herbs, 121, 321 Hippeastrums, 28 ; questions about, 168 Haimanthus, growing the, 184 Holly bushes, moving, 95 ; hedge, a famous, 149 ; preserving, 308 Hollies in the Bristol Zoological Gardens, 127 ; cutting back, 1S3 ; from seed, 138 Hollyhocks, s, 61 ; diseased, 349 ; during winter, 330 Honesty, a variegated, 233 Horse-radish, 91 Horticultural Club, East Anglian, 56, 57, 96, 140 ; College, Swanley, 201 ; Direc- tory, the, 214 Horticulture, scientific, a remarkable bequest to, 112 House facing north, 94 Hoya culture, 350 Hyacinth, Spanish, the, 173 Hyacinthus azureus or Sluscari azureum, 203 Hydrangea flowers blue, turning, 292 ; hor- tensis, ISl, 281 ; japonica, 2S1 ; panicu- lata, 100 Hydrangeas, 91, 347 ; treatment of, 48, 80 I. Iberis sempervirens superba, 313 Illicium anisatum, 103 Impatiens Holstii, 232 India, seeds for, 823 Insect pests, 195 Institution, Gardeners' Royal Benevolent, 19, 66 Inula glandulosa flmbriata, 314 ; Hookeri, 327 lonopsidium acaule, 321 Ipomtci rubro-cajrulea, 89, 129. 190, 236; 275 ; in the open, 40, 342, 313 Ipomoias, tropical, in the open, 123 Iris bucharica, 255; Danfordia;, 89, galatica, 203; hislrioides major, 127, 188; the .lapanese, 23S, 300; 'ievigata, 300; Persephone, 344; pumila, 327 ; Sieheaiis, 192 ; stylosa, 99 ; a beautiful form of. 2 ; flne forms of. 36 ; not flowering, 211 ; white, 174 ; susiana, 374 ; tingitana, 234, 280; white Algerian, the, 127 ^ - Irises, Bearded Flag, 98 ; Japanese, 377 ; the Flag, 104 ; seedling, planting out, 47 Jacobinias, 306 Japanese gardening, 264 ; horticulture, 309 Jasminuni nudiflorum, 142 ; fertilisation of, 113 Jew's Mallow, 317 Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society. 142 •" Kalanchoe flammea, 166 Kalmia glauca, 313; latifolia, 228 Kerme's Oak for game covers, 117 Kerria japonica, 317 Kew Guild dinner, the, 352 ; Jouroal, the, 4 ; visitors to, 4 Kitchen garden, lessons from 1904, 15 L. Laburnums in pots, 243 Lachenalias, 225 ; two new, 193 Lady's Slipper, the long-lost, 306 L.-clia anceps, 76 ; cinnabarina, 289 ; harpo- phylla, 289 Lailio-Cattleya Mrs. Jleasures, 280 Latanias, 91 Lathyrus pubescens, 280 ; splendens, 339 Lawn, the, 125; Impoverished, 123; im- proving, 138; lichen on, 227,213; moss in, 163 ; relaying, 123 ; treatment of, 168 Lawns, 135, 195 ; a note about, 178 ; the formation and management of, 61 ; weakly, improving, 139 Leek, a late, Royal Favourite, 290 Leeks, 45, 70, 165 Legal points, 245, 259, 349 Lessons from 1904, 31, 44, 60 Lettuce, Cabbage, a good, 327 ; Golden Ball, early forcing, 290 ; a new, 144 Lettuces, 60, 321 ; Cabbage, choice, 242 Leucojum carpathicum, 203 Lilacs, forced, 2-28 ; at Kew, 339 ; scented. 47 Lilium, 205 ; Bulbocodium, 94 ; candidum disease, 350; pardalinum and vars., 3 p. var. pubernlum (Hort.), 20 ; Parryi, 37; parvum, 37; philadelphicum, 185 philippinense, 185; polyphyllum, 185 pyrenaicum, 102; roseum var. multi florum, 302 ; testaceum in the south west of Scotland. 220 Lilies, 3, 20, 37, 75, 185 ; at the Temple show, 375 ; summer-flowering, for sandy soil, SO ; the Mariposa, 373 Liliums, planting, 137 Lily, the mountain, 23 ; the Nankeen, 14 ; the white, 319 Lily of the Valley, Fontin's, 88, 312 Liming garden soil, 64 Loganberry, the, 11 ; and similar fruits, pruning the, 11 M. Magnolia conspicua seeding, 86; Kobus, 199 Manchurian Adonis, the, 52 Mango, the, 223 Manure, animal, preserving fertility, 152 ; infuser, 'Leviathan," 74; liquid, 28; peat moss litter, 184 ; poultry, 164 Manures, cow and artificial, 161 Marrows, vegetable, 61, 241 Masdevatlias, repotting, 166 May frosts, 325 Meconopsis cambrica plena, 167; integri- folia, '280 ; punicea, 318 Melianthus major flowering, 201, 232, 314 Melon culture at Farnham, 110; house, blight in, 322 ; plants, scorched, 244 Melons, 13, 257 ; and how to grow tbem, 75 ; early, 03 Mentone, a letter from, 214 Mesembryanthemura spectablle, 321 Mezereon, the, 35, 102 Mice, Held, destroying, 190 Michaelmas Daisies, 32 ; as pot plants, 217^ 208 Miltonias, Brazilian, 11, 165 Montbretias, 28 The Garden," July 1, 1905.] INDEX. vu. Mops, floral, 77 Mullein, the Rosette, 71 Mulching, 76 Muscari latifolium, 271 Mushrooms, 62, 289 ; diseased, 216 ; the evil of bad spawn, 268 ; field culture of, 373 ; hollow-stemmed, 276 ; In the open garden, 164 Myrobolan hedges, 216, 300 N. Narcissus Acme, 254 ; Blackwell, 253 ; Duchess of Westminster, 232 ; in China, cultivation of the, 24 ; maximua, 232 ; manure for, 292 ; poeticus, 349 Nasturtium, the Flame, 27 Native plants, protection of, 19 Nectarines, wireworm and leaf curl in, 169 ; and Peaches, 289 ; outdoors, 76 Nepenthes, historical notes on, 250, 269 Nerines, 333 New Year, the, 1 Nicotiana Sander re, 109 Nicotianas, Sander's hyl^rid, 7 Nlgella Miss Jekyll, 101 North border, plants for, 94 O. Oak leaves as manure, 212 Oaks, American, in Eneland, 127 Ochro or Gombo, the, 124 Odontoglossum cirrhosum, 30 ; coronarium mlniatum, 121 ; grande, 322 ; lawrence- anum, 207 ; maculatum, 30; and Masde- vallia houses, 226 ; ran-osissimum Eurford var., 271 ; ruckerianum Lay- cock's variety, 242 ; thompsonianum, 290 Onion seed, germinating, 212 ; Veitch's Brown Globe, 188 Onions, 60, 76, 165, 305 ; excellent home- grown, 273 ; keeping, 242; the scaicity of, 173, 220, 284 Orchard house, 121, 195, 333 Oncldlum altissimum, 312 Orange tree, growing an, 198 ; in pot, 211 Orchid growing for beginners, 11, 46, 161, 226 ; a lost, rediscovered, 265 ; from New Guinea, a new, 201 ; houses, shading, 136 ; temperature for the, 30 Orchids and Cacti, 62 ; cool-house, flower- ing in summer, 350 ; East India house, 225 ; at Friar Park, 334 ; good mid- winter, 3 ; hybrid and others at Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, 264 ; manuring, 307 ; neglected, 241 ; on the lawn, 234 ; sale of, 296 ; for small house, 276 ; tempera- tures and shading, 225 ; at Woodhatch, Reigate, 201 Ostrowskia magniflca, 49, 144, 192 ; hardi- ness of, 300 ; and KomneyaCoulterii, 99 ; hardiness of, 43 Pseonia, a handsome, 375 Pseonies, diseased, 322 Palm, a hardy, 24 Faneies for the garden, 222 ; Tutted, exhi- biting, 297 ; yellow, improvement of, 341 ; for south-west border, 80 ; twelve varieties of, tor exhibition, 109 ; when to plant, 80 ; white, 16 ; yellow, 47 ; and their improvement, 313 ; and Violas, fancy, 279 Paradise stocks, propagating, 164 Parasite, an interesting, 116 Paris flower show, the, 311 Park, London, a new, 113 Parrot's Bill, the, 340 Parsley, 61, 107, 306 ; grown in tubs, 251 Parsnips, 61, 121 Pasque Flower, the, 248 Paul, Mr. William, F.L.S., death of, 213 Pea, new, tor pot culture, a valuable, 144 ; Webb's Senator, 181 Peas, 16, 135, 289, 348 ; the best six, 242 ; " blue boilers, " 282 ; Everlasting, two delightful, 339; garden, 141 ; and Beans, 13 Peach leaf-curl, 242 ; leaves damaged, 322 ; shoots, shrivelled, 323 ; trees, eggs on, 197 ; in flower, 146 ; pruning, 91 Peaches, early (pot), 61 ; under glass, 135, 241 ; and Nectarines, 138, 289 ; early, in pots, 241, 305 ; outdoors, 76 Pear Beurr6 d'Anjou, 12 ; Marguerite Marillat, 196 ; Santa Claus, 17, 36 ; new, 98 ; Winter Nelis, 60 ; Winter Williams', 18 : trees, espalier, 29 ; famous, in the Channel Islands, 41 ; horizontal training of, 308 Pears, late, 237 ; for north wall, 123 ; tor the new year, 11 ; pruning, 124 ; best, tor small gardens, 15 FelargoDiums, 348 ; six good winter-flower- ing, 14 ; winter-flowering, 186 ; zonal, 135 Pelican Flower, the, 77, 178 Pentstemon barbatus Torreyii, 37, 99 Pentstemons, the, 27, 257 Perennials, herbaceous, 139 ; and slugs, 227 Persimmon plants, 276 Petunia Lord Courtenay, 67 Phaiuagrandlfolius, 1% ; tuberculosus, 287 Phahcnopsis, 289 Phillyreas, the, 38 Phlox divaricata, 282 Phloxes, 28 ; the dwarf, 218 Phyllanthus pulcher (Reidia glaucescens, Miq.), 83 Picotees, Carnations, and Auriculas, show, 97 Pieris (Andromeda) japoiiica, 207 Pine-apples, Queen, 46, 166,273,91 Pinks, 297 ; alpine, 61 Plant, British, a beautiful, 3 ; exports from England to Italy, 175 ; names, 157 ; popular, 143; pillar, a beautiful, 339; portraits, recent, 107, 161, 216, 306, 371 Plants for border, 291 ; English names for, 81, 129, 171, 191 ; flowering, early, 371 ; frosted, the treatment of, 87 ; hard- wooded, 46 ; hints on collecting and pre- serving, 109 ; for a north border, 36 ; protecting, 61 ; for screen, 123; marsh, 373 ; tender, on shelter for, 33, 102 ; for tubs, 244 ; for vases, Ac, in house, 360 Platyclinis (Dendrochilum) glumacea, 62 Pleione humilis, 121 Plum blossom, 282 ; Cox's Emperor, 69 ; the Denbigh, 69 ; tiee, gumming in, 137 Plumbazo capensis, 201 ; Larpenlfe, 124 Poinsettias, preserving cut, 80 Poisonous compounds, the sale of, 362 Polyanthus, gold-laced, named, 265 Polyanthuses, seedling, 248 ; and Prim- roses, 302 Pond, small, plants for, 109 Ponds and pools, small, 128, 316 ; and water plants, 241 Potash for the garden, 123 Potato culture, experiments in, 216 ; lecture on, 186 ; Discovery, propagating, 167; Eistern Star, 61; prices, 217; Sutton's Discovery, 122 ; Syon House Proliflc, 248, 206 ; trials at Cambridge University Farm, 176 Potatoes, 15, 136, 209, 306 ; breaking up old pasture for, 63 ; cooking, 159 ; deve- lopment of new breeds of, 66 ; early, 28 ; flavour in, 128 ; tor 1905, 62 ; forcing, in pots or frames, 110; retarding of, the, 217 ; and the Royal Horticultural Society's trials, 103 ; at Wisley, 35 ; the best, a cooking test, 16; yellow flesh, 76, 102, 146 ; and wireworms, 109 Pot-herbs, the old, in the flower garden, 6 Primrose, blue, origin of the, 112 ; Chinese, double, 118 ; curious, a, 275 ; Miss Mas- sey, 19, 60 ; Polyanthuses, 235 Primroses, coloured, 22; double, 113; Evening, 327 ; garden, 371 Primula deorum, 327 ; double white, :J21 ; from China, a new, 331 ; farinosa, 316; kewensis, 289 ; obconica, 166 ; Veitchii, 338 Primulas, 348 Prizes tor gardeners, 2, 18, 66, 82, 114, 126, 142, 172, 186, 200, 250, 264, 280, 309, 326, 338 ; for new plants, 3 ; open to all, 200 Pruning, 49 Prunus davidiana, 127, 143; in Scotland, 299 Pyracantha, the, 36 ; at Byfleet, the, 99 Pyrola rotundifolia, 18 Pyrus japonica, 174, 229; niedzwetzkyana, 280 Q. Quince, Japanese, in fruit, 93 Radishes, 161 Railway station gardens, prizes for, S3 Rainfall at Ashby-de-la-Zouch, 99 ; in the Cheshire distiict, 114 ; for March, 248 Ramondia pyrenaica, 71 Raspberry, PenwiU's Champion, the new, 59 Raspberries, 289 Reinwardtias, 273 Rhododendron argenteum, 167; ciliatum, 266; Duchess of Portland, 302; dying, 167 ; an early flowering, 99 ; fulgens, 217 ; Lady Alice Filzwilliam, 331 ; pr.'L'Cox, 142 ; Pink Pearl, 298 ; and other varieties, 82 ; racemosum, 232 ; Rhodora, 232 ; a winter flowering, 100 Rhododendrons, &c., 01 ; cutting back, 10 ; hardy Himalayan, 311 ; in South Africa, 6 ; three interesting, 340 Rhubarb, 181 ; and vars. how to grow, -260 ; Crimson, Winter, 122 ; Daw's Champion, orced, 122 ; forcing, 28, 32 ; Hobday's Giant, 342, 376 ; from seed sown in spring, 290 Riviera, a note from the, 114 ; notes, 1, 69, 174, 215, 301 Rock garden, 151, 241, 321; making, 131, 162 Rockery, plants for, 137 Romneya Coulteri, 139 ; and Ostrowskia magniflca, 99 ; hardiness of, 43 Rosa gigantea, 179 ; moschata nivea, 254 ; nutkaensis, 34 ; wichuraiana and its hybrids, 100 Rose Alliance Franco- Russe, 193 ; Apothe- ker G. Hofer, 249 ; Bauksian, the, 207 ; bed, 107 ; Bellefleur, 239 ; Bennetts Seedling, 66 ; Bon Silene, 183 ; buds with green centres, 336; Christmas, 123; climbing Cecile Brunner, 310 ; climbing, the best white, 132 ; Crimson Rambler, 239 ; cuttings, 183 ; Dean Hole, 47 ; Dorothy Perkins as a fountain Rose, 193 ; E. Veyrat Hermanos, 56 ; exhibition boxes, 163 ; Filicit(5 Perpeiue, 27 ; For- tune's Yellow, 302, 343, 346 ; Frau Karl Druschki, 132; garden, a winter, 202; work in, 347; Griiss an Teplilz as a climber, 212; Hybrid Tea, Mamie, 50; Jeanne Buatois, 193 ; Josephine Ber- nacchi, 61; Lady Gay, 344; La France unsatisfactory, 169 ; MarSchal Niel, failures with, 22; standard, 228 ; Mme. Abel Chalenay, 346 ; Mme. rie Watte- ville, 345 ; Mme. P. Perry, 303 ; Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt (H.T.), 250 ; Musk, Ihe old, 264 ; Pauline Labonte (Tea), 119; Red Captain Christy, 239 ; Reve d'Or, good growth of, 09 ; and tarred string, 100; Richmond, 339; the Scotch, as a hedge plant, 69; shoots damaged by insects, 324 ; diseaEcd, 275 ; show, spring, why not a, 175 ; Tea Rambler, 148 ; Una (Hybrid Briar), 175 ; Wallflower, the, 319 ; W. A. Richardson, 344 ; pegged down, 336 ; west wall, for, 107 Roses, 61, 166, 273, 305 ; arches of, 148 ; at the Temple Show, 346 ; Banksian, pruning, 228 ; brilliant, for August and September, 249 ; Chiistmas, a great show ot, 113 ; Clematis, Ac, planting, 64 ; climbing, the best for small green- houses, 42 ; crimson, two beautiful, 132 ; Damask, 303 ; decline of Continental novelties, 38 ; flowering badly, 250 ; flowering of, 190 ; fragrant, 109 ; garden, 91 ; garlands ot, 174 ; grafted, 231 ; green- house, in winter, 3 ; how to prune, 147,163; in cold pits, 163; in exposed situations, 64 ; in pots, 174 ; liquid manure for, 380 ; making shy blooming, free, 148 ; manuring, 308 ; newly-potted, 193 ; on terraces, 34 ; own root, 279, 329 ; pegging down, 22 ; planting, 26, 38 ; pot- grown, climbing, 244 ; pot-pouiriof, 211; protecting, 38 ; pruning, 123 ; " pruning. Handbook on,' 197 ; rambler, the first season after planting, 38 ; rambling, 12 ; recently planted, pruning various, 163; tea, the winter protection of, 6 ; trans- planting, 22 ; twelve, for beginners, 42 ; valuable creeping, 100 ; weeping, train- ing, 198 Salads, 28 ; spring, 136 ; winter, Evesham gardeners and, 65 Salsafy, 121 Salvia splendens, 323 Salvias, 226 Savoys, 44, 181, 334 Saxifraga altissima, 23 ; burseriana var. major, 62; cordifolia, 313; Elizabeth,-c, 237 ; Ferdinandi - Cobourgi, 237 ; Kot- schyi, 203 ; the purple, 236 ; rudolpbiana, 203 Schizanthus at Corhampton House, 313 ; flowers, 311 ; wisetonensis, 67, 116 Scilla sibirica raarginata, 341 Seakale, 28, 123, 151 ; culture ot, 276 Seden, Mr. John, V.M.H., 136 Seed sowing, 91 Seeds tor parden, 124 ; sowing, 107 ; to sow (June), 327 : vitality of, 130 ; watering, 107 Selaginellas, greenhouse, 209 Shady and windy place, flowers for, 336 Shamrock, blue-flowered, the, 52 ; Pea, the, 84 Shortia galacifolia, 285 ; uniflora, 192, 218 Shrewsbury Floral Fete, 142 Shrub, effective, 137; gracetul-berried, a, lis ; winter-berried, a, 57 Shrubs tor banks, 94 ; for clay and lime soils, 212 ; cuttings of, 28 ; evergreen, pruning, 86; forced, 135; forcing, 13; pruning, 219 ; pruning certain, 243 ; spring-flowering, 321 ; tender, 196, 265 ; the pruning of, 328 ; that fiower in January, 35 ; town gardens, for, 36 Shrubs and trees, 6, 24, 38, 50, 63, 84, 219, 256, 266, 287, 298, 317 ; tor winter colour, 26 ; greenhouse, 91 Siberian Crab as a hedge, the, 342 Sklmmla Foreman), 67 Snapdragons, 7 Snowdrop, a fine variety of, 173 Snowdrops, the, .03, 69, 87 ; flowering of, 14 Society, Bath Gardeners', 66, 98, 140, 2.30, 2'i ; Beckenham Horticultural, 96 ; Botanical, of Edinburgh, 96 ; Bourne- mouth and District Gardeners', 278 ; Brighton and Sussex Horticultural, 140, 201 ; Bristol and District Gardeners', 66, 67 ; the British Gardeners', 1, 19, 35, 44, 77, 82, 98, 144, 156, 200, 248 ; Cardiff Dif- fodil, 278; Cardift Gardeners', 56, 67, 96; Chester Paxton, 278 ; Croydon Horti- cultural, 56, 67, 246, 294 ; Croydon, 278 ; Dundee Horticultural, 245, 298 ; Ealing Horticultural, 312 ; Kidderminster and District Horticultural, 96 ; Kingston Gardeners', 96; Kiikbean and District Horticultural, 56, 57 ; Kirkcudbright Horticultural, 66, 57 ; Linnean, an in- teresting evening at the, 312 ; Linnean, of London, 3 ; Liverpool Horticultural, 56, 57, 140, 230 ; Manchester Royal Botanic and Horticultural, 294 ; Mid- land Daffodil, 261 ; National Amateur Gardeners, 229 ; National Auricula, 262 ; National Chrysanthemum, 56, 57, 96; National Potato, 84, 156; National Sweet Pea, 81 ; Norfolk and Norwich Horticultural, 293 ; Pangboume and District Gardeners', 2:i0 ; Ramsey Horticultural, 96 ; Reading and District Gardeners', 140, 277 ; Redhill and Reigate Gardeners', 96, 230, 278, 294 ; Royal Botanic, 277 ; Royal Caledonian Horti- cultural, 66, 281 ; Royal Horticultural, 18, 56, 66, 172, 200, 246, 262, 294, 326 ; annual meeting, 97 ; and Apple awards, 235 ; dates ot meelii'g=, 1'22 ; fruit and vegetable committee awards, 328 ; ot Perthshire, 61 ; Royal Scottish Arbori- cultural, 140 ; Scottish Horticultural, 230, 246, 294 ; Sheffield and Ihe British Gardeners', 246, 293 ; Shirley (Southamp- ton) Gardeners', 278 ; Truro Daffodil, 230; United Horticultural Benefit and Provi- dent, 56, 216 Soianum aviculare, 312 Solanums, 121 Soot as a manure, 62 South Africa, wild flowers in, 93 Sparrows eating green fly, 300 Spalhoglottis Lobbii, &c., 241 .Spinach, 01, TO Spindle tree, the, 157, 204 ; the white, 220 ; wood, the white-fruited, 118 Spring Garden at Scarlets, the, 314 Spiriciarguta, 281, 299 Stock, a new, 371 Stokesia cyanea, 83 Strawberry plantations, lOV 12 ; tree, the, 100 Strawberries, diseased, 227 ; outdoors, 273 ; forcing, 51 ; 121, 195 ; late, in pots, 333 Streptosolen Jamesoni, 314, 342 Strobilanthes dyerianus, 86 Succulents, 181 Summer gardening, prize essay on, 260 ; v. winter pruning ot fruit trees, 44 Sunburn, 38 Sunshine, effect ot, following severe frost, 156 Surrey gardens, two, 343 Sussex Heath garden, notes from a, 266 Sweet Pea seeds, 227 Sweet Peas, 137, 165, 211, 305 ; the best varieties, and how to grow them, 40 ; and Canterbury Bells, 23 ; the Countess Spencer class of, 06 ; for exhibition, 183 ; most popular tints in, the, 113 ; Scarlet Gem, 113 ; selections of, 64 ; sowing, 16, 61 ; in tubs, 169 ; twentieth century, 187 Sycamore, a variegated, 318 Temple show, the (supplemeiil), 330, 331, 361 Testimonial, the Henry Ecktord, 186 Thunias, 161, 333 Thyrsacanthus rutilans, 143 Tomatoes, 28, 01, 91, 322, 348 ; early, 225 Trees, American, in England, 81 ; dying, 336 ; newly - grafted, 334 ; orchard, staking and protecting, 146 ; pollarding, 94 ; of upright growth, 84 ; what to plant beneath. 4; in winter, 56; and ihrubs, 5, 24, 38, 66, 68, 84. 219, 265, 266, 287, 298, 317 ; forced, 333 ; tor winter colour, 25 ; greenhouse, 91 Trofjeolum speciosum, 27, 229 Tubs and bo.xes, summer plants for, 177 Tuberous Begonias, 307 Tulip, Darwin, Clara Butt, 222 ; tree, 138 Tulipa kaufmanniana, 271 Tulips, Darwin and Cottage, 340 ; failing 228 ; from Ireland, 312 ; leaves ot diseased, 322 ; May-flowering, 133, 331 ; at Kew, 330 ; Raspberry, early, 268; in pots, 61, vm. INDEX. l"The Garden," Jvly 1, 1905- Turnip, Eirly Soowball, 151 Turnips, 61, 151, 235, 3S4 Tun-iBi heteropiiylla, 340 Vanda teres and Dendrobium Falconeri. 331 Vegetable crop, the spring, 142; crops among trees, 109 Vegetables, decorative, 281 ; for exhibi- tion, 227 ; and salad, early, 47 "Vegetation, Effects of the Weather Upon," 216 Verbenas, three good, 127 Veronica gentianoides, 839 ; hullieana, 340 ; parviflora, 57 ; Traversi, 19 Veronicas, shrubby, 209 ; some good, 67 Vine, Alicante, bleeding, 292 ; annular incision of the, 316 ; border, soil for, 32 ; culture for an amateur, 16; leaf, brown spots on, 292 Vine leaves diseased, 260 ; pot, weak, 154 ; roots dying, 137 ; shouts failing, 323 ; injury to, 323 Vinery and forcing house combined, a, 117 ; planting a, ] 10 Vines, 151 ; deteriorated, 16 ; early per- manent, 61, 209, 305; grubs on, 152; hardy, for cottages, 263, 234 ; late, 29, 257, 348 ; cleaning, 107 ; JIuscat, late, 225 ; outdoor, 181 ; planting, 167. ISl ; pot, 61, 209, 305 ; young, grafting, 276 Viola cornula, 44 ; c. alpina, 119 Violas, 225 ; in winter, SO Violet flowers, increasing the size of, 291 ; leaves, damaged, 96 ; Mrs. Arthur, 166 ; Mrs. Pethers, ISS ; plants, 140; plants, dying, 152; unhealthy. 138; Princess of Wales, 24S ; single, the, 324 ; sweet, the, 86, 101, 115 Violets, 241, 305 ; from Cumberland, 18S ; from O.vford, 233 ; in Cornwall, 177 ; and spring flowers, 18S ; sweet, 149 ; unsatis- factory, 154 Walker, Mr. Divid, Kilmarnock, 19 Walks, 135, 195 Wallflower, Alpine, 38 Wallflowers failing, 306 ; from Ireland, 302 Wall gardening, the beauty of, SS Walnut trees, 124 Walnuts, English, propagating, 265 Water gardening 156, 372 ; Lily for tub, 168 ; plants and ponds, 241 ; and wild garden, the, 221 Weather in 19U4, the, 112; notes, 266; study, value of, 317 Weeds, 46, 337 West Australia, farms in, 217 Whitewash Bramble or Black Cap, 12 Wild garden, the, 75 ; and water garden, the, 221 Willow, Napoleon's, 123 ; tree by Napo- leon's grave, 160 Window flowers for London houses, 98, 156 Wineberry, 11, 275 Windsor Park and Forest, 156 Winter flower, a beautiful, IS ; a showy, 34 ; flowers, some valuable, 73 ; green, the, 18 ; greens, 191 ; moth, the, 63 ; Sweet, the, 100, 191; watering plants in, 74, 130 Wire, galvanised, danger of, 339 ; netting for culinary Peas, 123 Wisley, trials at, 314 Y. Yew hedge, 336 ; hedges, 54 ; bow to make and keep, 136 ; neglected, 210 Yorkshire garden, notes from a, 233, 296 Yucca guatemalensis, 17S Yulan seeding, the, 85 ; transplanting, 3S0 Z. Zauschneria, 124 ILLUSTRATED ARTICLES. Adonis amurensig, the new double - flowered, 207 Agapanthua umbellatus as a tub plant, 205 Alkanet, the new Italian, 21 Anemone blanda, a bordering of, 210; Hepatica in the wild garden at Eiln- burgh, 150 Anemones, St. Brigid, in a Suffolk garden, 358 Antirrhinums, Cimpanulas, and other flowers in a dry wall, 88 Apple, bu3h, a typical, ISO; E nperor Alexander, a cluster of fourteen fruits of, 16i ; Gascoyne's Sjarlet, 12 Apples, Smart's Prince Arthur and Winter Peach, 343 Arabis albida, a bed of, 240 Artichokes, Jerusalem, lOS Arum Lilies, a house of, 315 Aubrietia Perkinsii, 344 Auricula, self. Daffodil, 270 Auriculas in the border, 101 Azalea obtusa alba at Kew, 100 Bluebells and Ferns at Kew, 357 Bog plants, &c., 221 Border, the mixed, at Hampton Court (coloured supplement) Bramble, the Nootka, 255 Broom, lawn, a new, I7(i C. Calendar, The Garden (supplement} Calochortu.s Gunnisoni, 373 Carnation George Maquay, a bed of the pure white in Mr. Watt's garden at St. Asaph, ;jO ; home in America, a, 267; Marguerite, flowers of the, 56 Carnations, Tree (coloun-d fiupplement) Cattleya bowringiana lilacina, 45 Chrysanthemum Mrs. T. W. Pockett, 43 ; new single, Honeysuckle, 85 ; President Nonin, 43 Chrysanthemums, a novel way of arrang- ing, 63 Chicory, wild, in the garden, 130 Cimicifuga simplex at Kew, the rare, 8 Cineraria stellata in Webb's nurseries, 305 Clematis Lucie Lemoine, 311 ; montana, 90 ; montana over garden arch, 359 Clip, flower, a valuable, 277 Coelogyne cristata, a group of, in the garden of Sir Alfred R-iynolds, 161 Colour scheme, a beautiful, 10 Cosmos bipinnatus in pots, 1U3 Cotoneaster angustifolia (coloured supple- ment); angastifolia, the new, 25; pan- nosa, lis Crinum Rittrayi, 239 Crocus chrysanthus var. Warley, 163 Crowei angustifolia, 234 Cup, the Sutton challenge, 277 Cupressus macrocarpa as a hedge, 358 Cyclamen libanoticum, 110 ; repandum. a bordering of, by a group of Funkiaa, 37 Cyclamens, Persian, at the York spring show, 374 Cypripedium Djn Carlos superbum, 376 ; fairieanum hybrids, 307; flower of the new, 105 D. Daffodil Baylor Hirtland, 316 ; fasciated, 316 ; trumpet. White Knight, 253 ] Daffodils, a jar of, 9 ; at the Midland Daffodil Society's show, 209; Messrs. Robertson's exhibit at Dublin, 275; a simple arrangement of, 146 Daphne blagayaua, a colony of, at Friar Park, 287 Dendrobium nobile, 2S2 Dipping well, old, covered with plants, 300 EJraianthus Pumilio, 360 Erica hybfida Veitcnii, 2^8; luaitanica, 323 Eriostemon myoporoides, 226 Euphorbia jacquiniEetlora, 73 Eustoma russellianum {coloured supple- ment) F. Fern, the stag's horri, 252 Fig, Piogo de Mel, 274 Fruit trees, orchard, showing how to stake, &c., 145 G. Garrya as a bush, the, 148 ; elliptica, cat- kins of, 149 Grape, Madresfleld Court, 62 Grapes, bunch thinned, 332 ; bunch uu- thinned, 332 Green Walk, the, Drummond Castle (coloured supplement) Guava, the, 206 H. Haberlea rhodopensis, 71 Heath, a beautiful, in a garden at Hybhe, 328 ; a new, 208 lUiciura anlsatum, 372 Ipomosi rubro-ciLTUlea, 40, 190 Iris Danfordiio, 80; girden in Japan, in an, 238 ; pallida dalmatica at Kew, 104 ; new, Persephone, 345 J. Japanese Irises at Wisley, 37' Lachenalias, two new, 193 Lilium elegins, 204 ; pyrenaicum in a London garden, 102 ; rjseura var. multiflorum. 302 Lily, a beautiful Mariposa, 373; the mountain, 23 ; white, in a Hampshire girden, 319 ; of the Valley, P'ontin'a, SO Love-in-a-mist, seed vessels of, 117 M. Mad wort, the lemon-coloured, at Kew, 342 Mango, the, 223 Manure infuser " Leviathan," 74 Mat for sheltering tender plants, a, 102 Meconopsis, punicea, 318 ; the beautiful new, 285 Melons, a house of, in Mr. Mortimer's nursery at Farnham, Surrey, 75 Merton Manor House, 112 Molyneux, Mr. H. E., 265 Morning Glory, the, 40 Moss Pink, the, 218 Mullein, the Rosette, in the rock garden, 71 Munstead flower glasses, 330 N. Narcissus Acme, 254 ; pallidus prfecox and N. variiformis, 26S Nicotiana Sanderie, new varieties of (coloured supplement) Nymphrea pona with British bog plants. 222 Of. Nymphseas, hardy, ponds of, 222 Odontoglossum, a new, 360 ; lawrence- anum, 207; ramosissimura Burford var., 271 ; thompsonianum, 20ii Onions, unthiuned and thinned, 347 Orchid, a blue-lipped, 45 Pseonia anomala, 375 Palm, a hardy, in Dr. Beale's garden at Weybridge, 24 Parasite, British, a beautiful, 116 Parrot's-bill Plant, the, 301 Parsley grown in a tub, 251 Paul, Mr. William, F.L.S., the late, 213 Pea Webb's Senator, a row of, 1S2 Peach tree under glass, shoots in flower, 92 ; Dr. Hogg in flower, 140 Pear Beurr6 Ranee, 237 ; Doyenne du Comice on an old farmhouse in the Cale- donian Nursery, Guernsey, 41; Mar- guerite Marillat as a cordon, 196 Pear tree, Beurr^ d'Amanlis, 303; triple espalier, 20 ; Winter Nelis, 60 Pelican Flower, the, 77 Phaius tuberculosus (coloured supplement) Phlox subulata, 218 Phyllanthuspulcher, S3 Pinks, alpine, in the rock garden, 51 ; how to increaao. 378 Plum, the Denbigh, also known as Cox's Emperor, 50 Pond and cave rockery, Lily, small, 392 Primrose from China, a new, 331 Primula, His Majesty, 133 ; japonica variety, 331 Prize essay on Roses, 300 Pyrus japonica in fruit, 03 Quince, Japanese, in fruit, 93 R. Ramondiapyrenaica in the rock garden, 71 Rhododendron ciliatum, 2G6 ; fulgens (coloured supolement), 376 ; indicum obtuaum at Kew, 100 ; Pink Pearl in South Africa, 5 Rhododendrons in the Riyal Botanic Society's Gardens, Regent's Park, 392 Rhubarb is forced with an old barrel, how, 28 Rock garden, constructed for Mr. G. S. S. Strode, waterf ill in the, 162 Rosa gigantea, 179 ; raoschata nivea (coloured supplement) Rose Bennett's Seedling, a remarkable plant of, 55; climbing, Mme. Alfred Carriere, 132 ; Lady Gay, 361 ; Fairy, the, 346; garden, a, before and after pruning, 147; Kdlarney, 304; Scotch, hedge of, 69 ; standard H.P. pruned and unpruned, a, 147 Roses, dwarf and standard, how to plant, 26 ; Tea, way of protecting standard, 6 Rubus nutkanus, 255 Ruskin Park, view in the proposed, 113 S. Seden, Mr. John, V.M.H., 136 Sedgwick Partt, Horsham (coloured supplement) Selaginella pilifera, 210 Shortia galacifolia, a group of, at Friars' Park, 285 ; uniflora, the rare and beauti- ful, 192 Skimmia Foremani in winter, 57 Snake's-head, common, 320 Snapdragons in wall in a Berkshire garden, 7 Snowdrop and old Yew trees, 189 Snowdrop, a rare, 63 Spring garden at Scarlets Park, part of the, 314 Spring Star Flower on a border facing east, 203 Spurge, the scarlet, a spray of, 73 Stock AH the Year Round, 371 Strawberry, Royal Sovereign, in pots, 258 Strawberries, layering, 362 Sweet Pea Gladys Unwin (coloured supple- ment) Temperate house at Kew, the, 72 Tulip Clara Butt (coloured supplement); Marguerite (coloured supplement) Tulips in front of the Palm house at Kew, 330 Turnip Early Snowball, 152 V. Valeriana sambucifolia at Kew, 3 Vanda hookeriana, 234 Violet Princess of Wales, 324 Violets at Tredethy, Cornwall, 177 Waterfall at Newnham Park, 162 ; small, in the rock garden of Mr. C. Bewea at Gnaton Hall, 131 Water garden, a natural, 128 Water Lily ponds, 222 Weybridge garden, in a, 343 Winter Sweet, the, pod and seed, 100 Wireworras, 120, 320 Y. Yucca guatemalensis at Kew, 178 ^^ GARDEN -^p- s^i No. 1729.— Vol. LXVII. January 7, 1905. THE NEW YEAR. ONCE again we liave the privilege of I wishing our readers a Happy New I Year, and such a greeting brings its own train of thought. .January is a month of work and anticipa- tion, and the true gardener should be busy thinking out schemes for the future in what- ever department of the garden these schemes are to be realised. That "the old order changeth, giving place to the new," has always been true, but it is now, perhaps,, truer than ever before. The life of the nation has changed, and it necessarily follows that other things must change also. In no direction has this difiference been so marked as in the world of literature. General literature was first influenced, and now the classics of our own and other languages are within the reach of quite moderate means. Technical literature is following the same path. During recent years gardening has perhaps made greater progress than any other of the useful arts, and a love for it has certainly deepened in the public mind during the last decade to an extent never before known. Kecognising the importance of this great change, The Gabden", which for more than thirty years has endeavoured to encourage the highest and best forms of gardening, to over- come deep-rooted conservatism, and to turn misdirected energy into more useful and pleasurable channels, comes to-day within reach of all who have any interest in a profitable and health-giving profession or recreation. The sound teaching of The Garden is 'h'aditional, and in this new departure the reputation which has been achieved will be steadfastly maintained and usefully developed. It is the wish of those responsible for the management of this journal to appeal ta all classes of gardeners, the amateur as well as the professional, and in doing so the advice given in its pages should bring twofold benefit. The professional gardener is as willing to profit by the experience of the enthusiastic amateur, as the amateur is from those who follow gardening as a life calling. Both work in harmony for the advancement of an important industry. It is unnecessary to write further, but we may well direct attention to the notice on the front advertisement page, on which the policy that we intend to pursue is clearly exp ressed. THE BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The movement initiated nearly a year ago to establish an association of professional gardeners for the United Kingdom has, we are pleased to learn, made good progress. A head or central office will shortly be opened in London, where a paid secretary will officiate, and branches are being established in pro- vincial towns and districts, so that before long the association will be busily occupied in promoting the interests of those for whose benefit it has been started. We have felt it our duty to encourage this movement from a sincere belief in its capacity for good. Although it appeals directly to every gardener whose conditions of employment it hopes to regulate and, where needed, to improve, it also appeals no less forcibly to employers, who are too often impreperly served in consequence of the absence of any organisation to control the labour market of gardeners. There must be a winnowing of the chaff from the corn. The operations of the British Gardeners' Association are intended to prevent the incompetent, or, otherwise unworthy, from crowding out men of ability and worth. We believe that employers generally will look upon this movement as being friendly to their interests, and not as one the object of which is to better the condition of the gardener at their expense. "Cheap and nasty" is true of labour as of material. A higher rate of pay for gardeners would tend to raise the standard of their skill and capacity. It would stimulate the workers and attract youths of better quality to the calling. There are many gardens in this country which could easily be managed at less cost than at present if they were better staffed. The waste of material, labour, and effort that may be seen in some gardens is so deplorable that one is moved to agree with the proprietor who complains that his garden costs too much already. There is certainly great room for improvement in this direction. We are, therefore, pleased to learn that some employers, among them the President of the Board of Agriculture, the Earl of Onslow, welcome the British Gardeners' Association as likely_ to prove a real help rather than a mischievous influence in horticulture. Whether gardeners generally are possessed of that spirit of citizenship, that disposition to co-operate, which have done so much for workers in other industries, will be revealed by the support they give to this association. Some of them object to it because it does not promise to do them much good -a selfish attitude, quite unworthy of a Britisher. The strong should help the weak. Others say they will wait and s-ee what comes of it, which shows a lamentable ignorance of the meaning of co-operation. Tht-re are also those who refuse their support because they fear that the association will disturb the pleasant relations now existing between some employers and their garden staff. If all gardeners were so happily situated there would be little need of an association to look after their interests. For our part, we have no hesitation in heartily commending to all, employers as well as employed, a movement which, happily conceived, is being conducted in a spirit of good nature and with the best intentions. As the promotors say, "Nothing will be attempted that is inconsistent with the rights either of employer or employed, or which will not com- mend itself to all who have the welfare of horticulture at heart." It is in this spirit that we wish the association God-speed in its efforts to raise the status of the professional gardener, by insisting that he shall be competent and worthy, and by securing for him proper recognition of his services and fair conditions of employment ; and also in its no less commendable desire to secure for employers duly qualified, trustworthy men. Thus horticulture, one of the most important of British industries, cannot fail to be benefited, and will, we earnestly hope, cease to be that "dumping ground for duffers" which it has been hitherto. RIVIERA NOTES. Bulbs and the Drought. AS the year draws to a close the severity /\ of the summer heat and drought is / \ made still more apparent by the non- / % appearance of winter-flowering bulbs / ^ which usually are now either in flower or should soon be open. The other day, seeing that none of the early kinds of white and yellow Tazetta Narcissus were above ground in their usual quarters, we dug down to see what had happened, and to our dismay we found nothing but rows and rows of dried-up husks of what had been splendid bulbs last spring. The exceptional heat and drought had cooked them in the ground, and not one bulb remains in that part of the garden. The gardener might have saved them by merely placing a few wheel- barrows of rubbish over them, as was done for things known to suffer from heat, but the native Tazettas are supposed to endure all vicissitudes, hence this loss. Anemones, on the contrary, have not sufl'ered at all ; even on the driest and hottest banks they are re- appearing, and where more moisture has reached them they are now floweiing. I am not surprised to find all the northern Trumpet Narcissus are killed, except in a few extra moist and shady corners, but that the native Tazettas i^hould have been killed shows the exceptional heat endured here. As a conse- quence, perhaps, of this summer the little- known shrub Aberia Caffra is fruiting in several gardens. 'W hen thoroughly soft and ripe its 2 THE GARDEN. [January 7, 1905. pretty yellow fruits, which hang like fairy globes on very slender stems among the shining evergreen leaves and sharp protecting thorns, are quite a pleasant addition to the dessert table. This shrub would also serve as a very efficient low hedge, and altogether is a desir- able shrub for gardens on this coast. Another new comer this season is a Gourd, whose botanic name I have not yet been able to ascertain, but which goes by the name of Chaillotte. It is a perennial I am assured, and climbs very prettily up the Olives, bearing most curious rugged fruit, with spines at intervals on its green e.xterior. Like the Aberia, its fruit stalks are so slender as to be almost invisible to the casual observer, which makes a decidedly curious effect in the tree. It must be peeled before eating when cooked, and practically may be called a winter Vegetable Marrow, as it seems to last for some months after the " Courses," hitherto grown here, are finished and done for. Illicium anisatum, that beautiful and ever-flowering tall evergreen shrub I have often mentioned, is one of the sufferers from the summer drought, and with others I have to mourn its loss where exposed to sun and drought ; in the moistest and shadiest situations only it has survived, and is, as ever, crowned with its starry flowers. Surely it would be well worth planting in Cornish and southern gardens, where the conditions would generally suit it so well, shade and moisture being easily attainable there. BiGNONiA VENUSTA, with its coppery orange clusters of flowers, is in much beauty this month of December, and Bignonia Buccina- toria, which went for many years under the name of "Cherere" (its native name), is also to be mentioned as especially fine this dry yea,r. Gardeners have an evil habit of clipping it in autumn and so destroying nearly all its flowers ; but when scientifically thinned out, or judicially left alone, it is, and has been, a veritable curtain of rose-crimson trumpets. The few wise men who did not hesitate to plan and propagate the well-known white Rose Frau Karl Druschki are reaping a golden harvest from its pure white flower-buds. It seems as if this Kose would prove of the very greatest use as a winter bloomer. Ranunculus are now much grown for winter cut flowers, as they come in before the Anemone when started at the end of August. This year they are especially good, as they were ripened so early and so thoroughly, and in consequence the crop of late autumn flowers is better than it usually is. A very dwarf and alpine variety of Viola cornuta is one of the prettiest carpeting plants for winter bedding. So far 1 have not seen it in England, where perhaps it might grow too gross and leafy. Xo bedding Viola can give so compact a mass of flower, and its blue Periwinkle shade of colour con- trasts well with the pink and white Daisies so much used in the public gardens where hardy plants are needed ; its stature is that of the blue Lobelia, which it replaces. It should be worth a tiial in English country gardens, where a new hardy plant is always welcome. It is perennial, but the summer heat is too much for it here, so it is best from seed each year, in this climate at any rate. Nice, Dec. IS. Edward H. Woodall. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. New Plants for Illustration. —We are very anxious to illustrate in colour and by photography new and rare plants, fruits and flowers, and shall be grateful to receive specimens from our readers. They must be packed with great care, and reach this office early in the week. To Encour.\ge a Greater Knowledge OF Tkeis and Shrubs. WE have received a letter from the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, whose excellent lecture on the winter effect of some trees and shrubs will be fresh in the memory of those who heard it at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, to the effect that he desires to offer a prize of two guineits for the best answers to the following questions. All gardeners in private employ are allowed to compete. It is expected that held gardeners where more than five are kept will not enter this competition. Mr. Gibbs's desire is to encourage an interest in trees and shrubs amongst young gardeners, and we hope this desire will be gratified. QUESTION'S. I. — Mention twelve effective shrubs flowering between September 1 and April 1. II.— Mention a class of deciduous trees that bears heavy or frequent pruning very badly, and a class of conifer that bears it particularly well. III. — Mention a Spiraea which has no external resemblance to other plants of that class, but rather simulates a Spurge. IV. — If you had to plant six large deciduous masses of cheap, hardy, vigorous plants, indifferent 3.s to soil, tfec, suit- able for cutting down every spring so as to produce a good colour effect in winter, what would you select ? V. — ]\fention a common deciduous tree and a shrub of trailing habit of which the popular names suggest that they are of a completely different order to that to which they belong. VI.— Mention six dioecious trees or shrubs. VII. — Mention four hardy deciduous conifers. VIII.— What deciduous trees stand wind best, and which worst ? IX.— What deciduous trees are most injurious and what least so to undercover ? .X. — Mention twelve flowering shrubs other than Syringas suitable for planting in a large town, confining the answer to species, and not giving varieties. XL — Mention twelve flowering trees and shrubs with blue, purple, or violet flowers. XII. — Write down in order, according to the safety with which they would bear removal, the following three sets of plants, assuming them to have been an equally long time undisturbed : (1) Oaks, Birch, Horse Chestnut, and Lime ; (2) Cupressus law- soniana, Pinus austriaca, Juniperus, Quercus Ilex; (.3) Cotoneaster micro- phyllus, Laurustinus, Aucuba, and Holly. XIII. — If a specimen conifer were to lose the leader, through wind or other accident, how would you set about to repair the damage *? Answers should be sent to the Editor of The Garden, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, London, and marked " Competition." These will be forwarded to Mr. Gibbs. The com- petition remains open until the end of the mouth. We think so highly of the suggestion made by Mr. Vicary Gibbs, and the great practical value of the questions he has framed, that we have decided to add Two Guineas to the first prize, to give a second prize of Two Guineas, a third of One Guinea, and a. fourth of Haifa- Guinea, and to institute motiihly competitions dealing with various other phases of gardening. With thejirst issue of each month we shall offer similar jn-izes to those above; the scheme of questions is especially intended for young gardeners. The questions will be selected so that the ansivers, which will be published in The Garden, may be of real value to all garden lovers. The winning replies, it is safe to assume, will contain the residt of many years' experience, plainly piut in a few words, and they cannot fail to impart much useful in- formation to all readers o/The Garden. We shall make a j^oint of keeping the questions seasonable, so that the rejMes will be particu- larly helpfid at the moment. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and in- teresting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the Hower so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand. A Beautiful Form of Ikis stylosa. Mr. Caparne sends a beautiful large-flowered form of I. stylosa, of a very soft blue-purple, richer than the type, and exquisitelj' veined on the inner surface of the falls. The growth is very strong and leaf3', but the following note from Mr. Caparne tells its own tale : " I enclose a few blooms of a large-flowered form of Iris stylosa, which dilfers from the type by the plant being more robust in every way, the time of blooming being much earlier — i.e., through Novem- ber and December here, whilst the type which is grown by it is seldom in bloom before Christmas, and gives its flowers mostly in March. The colour, too, is deeper and richer, and a conspicuous arrow- head mark adorns the centre of the fall or lower petal. The stj'le which forms the stem of the Hower is also much larger, from 12 inches to 16 inches instead of from 8 inches to 10 inches. The best results are obtained when it can be grown in a single line, as in an edging in a sunny, sheltered position when it is most free blooming, but it is so particular about the amount of sun and air it gets, as with most Irises, that if planted in a square mass the outside plants only giveacjuantit}^ of bloom. A watchful eye has to be kept for slugs and earwigs, they will spoil the whole bed or border as fast as the blooms appear. Lime water and picking for the slugs and tmall snails is perhaps the best remedy. The growth of the flower and style is very rapid, being several inches in a few Januaby 7, 1905.] THE GAEDEN. hours ; it is naturally very tender and attracts these pests. The plants should be dug up, pulled to pieces, and replanted in new ground every third year, as with most Irises, this being preferable to manure. Time for moving is in spring after blooming." Good Midwinter Orchids. We have received flowers of several Orchids from "H. H. W.," Shrewsbury, among which are Odonto- glossum sanderianum. This is a distinct and pretty species that fills the room with its delicate perfume. The blossoms are rather starry, as it is termed, but are no less beautiful on that account. The contour of the flowers is like that of 0. nseviuni, but the colour is pale yellow on the sepals and petals, the lip white, the whole flower plentifully spotted with reddish brown. It is quite a cool house species, thriving well in a small suspended pan where it gets the full benefit of the air currents. It must be kept moist at the root all the year round and plentifully sprinkled overhead when the weather is bright. It is a native of New Grenada and was introduced in 1881. Oncidium cavendishianum is a superb winter-flowering species that should be represented in all collections. The blossoms are produced on bold branching scapes from the base of the last formed leaves, this kind bearing no pseudo-bulb. Each flower, if the variety is good, measures nearly 1^ inches across. The sepals and petals are about equal, of a light yellow shade, spotted with chestnut red, the large front lobe of the lip being clear bright yellow. It is a native of Guatemala, and one of the easiest in the genus to cultivate. It does well at the cool end of the Cattleya house in a pot with equal parts of peat and Moss over good drainage. THE LILIES. (Continued.) C^^UM OCHflOLEUCUM (Hort.).-See sulphureum. L. odorum (Planchon). — See japonicum co]chesterense. L. pardalinum (Kellogg). — The Panther Lily. A very variable Lily, widely spread in Western America and an old inhabitant of our gardens, thriving in any damp, cool situation. The bulbs are white, thick, scaly, and rounded near the insertion of the stems, variable in size and shape, the stems 3 feet to 6 feet high, very slender, hollow, and scarcely at all rooted below. The leaves are scattered above, whorled below, coloured a deep bluish green, broadly lance-shaped, and lax. The flowers appear in a loose umbel of six to ten, occasionally arranged tier above tier in whorls of four to five, the foot-stalks long and slender, nodding at the tops, the petals much recurved, coloured brilliant orange, spotted dark brown in the lower half, tipped with bright reddish scarlet. Each flower is 5 inches across when fully reflexed. A Lily common in cultivation. Flowers in July. Var. angustifolium, (Hort.). — The narrow- leaved Panther Lily. A slender - growing variety of rich orange colouring, long known as L. Roezlii. An excellent marsh plant. The bulbs are like those of a small L. pardalinum, the stems 2 feet to 3 feet high, very slender, the leaves lax, narrowly lance-shaped, glaucous green, whirled below, and 3 inches to 4 inches long. The flowers are in an umbel, and borne on long foot-stalks, coloured orange, yellowish near the throat, spotted with a few large dots nf crimson-maroon. The expanded petals are 3 inches across. Rare in cultivation. Flowers in July, and inhabits the Eocky Mountains of Utah and the Santa Crux Mountains of California. A very dainty Lily, apparently distinct from the rest of the pardalinums. Var. Boxhrgaei (Baker) has bulbs, stems, and leaves as in pardalinum. The tips of the broad petals are heavily marked with crimson, and the flowers are spotted dark maroon. Var. californicuvi (Lindley). — A dwarfer form, of tufted habit, with more highly coloured flowers. It also has masses of freely- branching rhizomes emitting roots from all surfaces. The stems are 3 feet to 6 feet high, numerous, tinted purple below, and the flowers, three to six, are deep orange red, heavily marked brilliant scarlet at the tips, the colouring being sharply defined, taking the form of arrow-heads. The spots are black and numerous, and the size of those of the type. Common in cultivation. Flowers in July. It is not so good a garden Lily as the type, and the bulbs split up into numerous small growths, each incapable of bearing many flowers. The colouring, however, is magnificent. Var. Michauxi resembles cajifornicum very closely. The centre of the flower is yellow, NOTES OF THE WEEK. VAi:,ERIAMA SAMBUCIFOl.lA AT KKW. (A ivlld plant binder cultivation.) and the reflexing tips vermilion. Lilium Michauxi (Laur.) has been described as synonymous with superbum, but the L. Michauxi of gardens is nothing but a colour variation of L. pardalinum californicum. Var. minor is a dainty form from the higher altitudes of the Sierra Nevadas, and has small but numerous flowers. The stems are 3 feet to 5 feet high and slender. The flowers are ten to twenty or more in a verticillate spike, each 2 inches across, and the colour is a clear pale bufi', densely dotted with carmine, the dots often aggregating into rings or lines. The petal tips refle.x fully to hide the tube, and are stained with crimson, the richness of colouring depending upon warm sunshine for full de- velopment. Anthers pale orange. Common ill cultivation. Flowers in July and August. Var. occidentale. — See californicum. Var. pallidifolitim. — See puberulum. G. B. Mallett. (To be continued.) FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 9. — Committee meeting of the United Horticultural Provident Society. January 11. — Meeting of the Sheffield Chrysan- themum Society. January 13.— Annual Social gathering of the Kew Gardeners. January 14. — Annual Dinner of the French Horticultural Society of London at the Cafe Royal, M. Philippe de Vilmorin in the chair. January 17. — Meeting of the Sevenoaks and the RedhiU and Reigate Gardeners' Societies. January 19. — Annual meeting and Election of Pensioners of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution, Mr. E. Sherwood in the chair. January 24. — Royal Horticultural Society's meeting. January 27.— Meeting of the Lee and Blackheath Gardeners' Society. "The Garden" Calendar. — We are greatly indebted to those secretaries of horticultural societies throughout the country who have so kindly given us the dates of their respective shows and meetings to be held in 1905. Without their willing co-operation we should have been unable to chronicle so many events of gardening interest for this year in the calendar given with this issue. AbeautifulBritish plant.— Of the teller Valerians, Valeriana sambucifolia is the most effective for the border and the wild garden, where the soil is moist enough. It blooms in the late summer and lasts in flower for a considerable time. It is a native of this country, and is often met with by the sides of streams, growing in damp places. Under cultivation, however, it is greatly improved and makes a bushy plant about 4 feet high, bearing cloud-like masses of small light purple-coloured flowers. It is closely allied to the Gat's Valerian (V. officinalis), even if it is not a form of it. The distinction between the two lies in the number of pairs of leaflets possessed by the entire leaves, V. sambucifolia having from four to five pairs, while V. officinalis has from six to ten on each leaf. The Capon's-tail Grass (V. pyren- aiea) is also a strong-growing species with large leaves, suitable for the rougher parts of the rock garden. The most generally-grown member of this family is the golden-leaved variety of V. Phu, which is a very effective plant in early spring. It forms neat, compact tufts of golden-coloured foliage, but the flowers are inconspicuous. — W. I. Linnean Society of London.— At the general meeting, held on the 15th ult. , Professor W. A. Herdman, F.R.S., president, in the chair, the following ladies and gentlemen were elected Fellows : Her Grace Mary du Caurroy Russell,. Duchess of Bedford, Miss Margaret Benson, D Sc. Lond., Mr. Samuel Edward Chandler, B.Sc, Mrs. Catherine Crisp, Miss Alice Laura Embleton, B So. , Mrs. Grace Frankland, F.R.MS., Mrs. Maria Ogilvie-Gordon, Ph.D., Munich, D.So. L)nd.,Miss. Gulielma Lister, Miss Ethel Sargant, Mr. Arthur Everett Shipley, M.A., F.R S., Miss Sirah. Marianne Silver, Mrs. Constance Percy Sladen,. Miss Annie Lorrain Smith, Mrs. Mary Anne StebbiDg, Miss Emma Louisa Turner, Mr. William. James Tutcher, Mrs. Lilian Jane Veley, and Miss- EUen Willmott. Prizes for new plants.— At the inter- national show to be held in Edinburjih on September 13, 14, and 15, 1905, Messrs. William Bull and Sons will offer, through the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, a special prize for new plants, viz., a silver cup value 10 guineas and £5 cash, to be awarded to the exhibitor of the best six D«w plants sent out by them. The six plants must be six species or varieties, but each may be composed of one or more individual plants, if grouped in one pot or pan. Full particulars may be had from William Bull and Sons, King's Road. Chelsea, S. W. Greenhouse Roses in winter.— It is very pleasant to be able to cut a few good Roses at Christmas time. Some years this can be done THE GARDEN. [January 7, 1905 from outdoor plants. Only recently we had the unusual sight of snow-covered beds of monthly Koses in bloom, from which handfuls could have been gathered. To obtain Roses in bloom in December and January in a greenhouse in which frost is just kept out by artificial means, plants should be prepared in late summer. All theRosesof the Mme. Falcot, G. Nabonnand, and Papa Oonlier type are the best to employ. Procure the plants during the summer, or, better still, pot some up into 8-inoh pots the previous autumn. Such plants will flower in .June and July if grown outdoors, the pots being plunged in ashes. After this first blossoming, all succes.sional flower - buds are pinched ofi' until September. New growths will then push forth, and will provide buds which will unfold during November and December if kept in a greenhouse from which frost is excluded. After flowering thus, the plants are rested by withholding water for about two weeks ; they are then pruned, and are ready for placing in a warm greenhouse, and will yield another crop of fiowers in about twelve weeks from the time of pruning. The Ancpum Road Gardens, Dun- dee.— A strenuous effort is being made to avert the threatened destruction of the Anorum Road Gardens, Dundee, in view of the difficulty of securing suitable ground, and the loss to the association and the individual allotment holders. A meeting of the men wis held in the gardens recently, and an animated discussion took place. It was resolved to use every effort to prevent the loss of the gardens. A deputation from the holders also waited upon the Works Committee of the City Council, and ultimately it was arranged that the new road should be stopped in the meantime at the gardens, and a conference held with the agents of the trustees to try and arrange for a reasonable notice being given. We have since heard that the negotiations have proved unsuccessful. "The Kew Guild Journal."— This annual publication, which is greatly looked for- ward to by all who have studied and worked in the Royal Gardens, ICew, seems to increase in interest every year. The editor could not possibly have filled the issue for 1904 with more readable matter. The letters from old Kew men who are now widely scattered throughout the world have the charm that always clings to notes from far-off countries. Mr. Tannock writes of snow-capped mountains and fruit trees in blossom in the valleys of British Columbia, and that the most striking features of the gardens of Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands, were ponds of Pontederia crispa in full flower. The notes sent from Uganda by Mr. E. Brown about the natives and the vegetation of that country are most interesting. Of the natives of Baganda Mr. Brown writes : " It we put the material condition of these natives side by side with that of thousands of Englishmen the comparison is greatly in favour of the Buganda. They never feel the want of food or clothes, and never suffer from cold. Their chief food is Bananas, which they can get by growing, or if they have not their own plantation they can buy a bunch for Id." The letter written by Mr. Wilson at a point 900 miles up the Yangtze River from Ichang, says : "All the higher mountains are clad with Rhodo- dendrons, and many of them are extremely hand- flome. I believe the Rhododendrons of China •equal, perhaps excel, those of the Himalaya in beauty and variety, and should be much hardier ■since they come from similar altitudes in latitudes many degrees further north. Around Tachien-lu they loi m dense, impenetrable thickets at 10 boo feet to 13.000 feet altitude." There are letters from Eg\ pt. South Africa, China, America, West Indies, British East Africa, and other countries, all of which give vivid accounts of the native tlora and sylva, bringing before one the grandeur, the beauiies, and the mysteries of distant lands, Riime half civilised and hardly explored. The jiiuinal for 1904 is dedicated to Mr. N. E. Brnwii. A L S., assistant in the Ivew Herbarium since 1873, whose portrait forms the frontispiece. Mr. B own is a recognised authorit3' on Cacti, AroiiU, and Cape plants generally. He is the a,uihor of several scientific works. Old Kew men will be glad to notice that the various institutions connected with the Royal Gardens, e.g., the British Botany Club, the Debating Society, and the Cricket Club, are all in a flourishing state. Damage by fog. — The recent fog has done a great amount of damage in the plant houses in Kew Gardens, especially in the greenhouse and Orchid houses. In some cases a year's labour in growing plants has been rendered fruitless. Moschosma riparium is one of the greatest sufferers. Little remains but a few bare stems on a batch of plants that were just coming into flower. Reinwardtia trigyna and tetragyna are almost as bad. The flowers of Coleus thrysoideus have all fallen off, and the leaves present the appearance of having been burnt by an exces- sive dose of fumigation. Impatiens Oliveri, I. Sultani, Jacobinia pauciflora, J. ghiesbreghiiana, Eupatorium petiolare, E. ianthinum. Salvia splendens, and many Begonias have all suffered severely. Manj' other plants have no doubt suffered, but the injury is not so apparent. When visited with fogs such as this, it leads one to look round and see what plants will withstand fog. Amongst these perhaps the most remarkable are Begonia Gloire de Lorraine and its varieties. Most of the Begonias have suffered badly, but these have come through apparently unharmed. Peristrophe speciosa is another plant one would not have expected to withstand the fog so well. The deposit on the glass gives the appearance of slate roofed rather than glass houses. Washing off the deposit left by the previous fog had scarcely been completed, and now it will all have to be done over again. Visitors to Kew. — During the year 1903 the number of persons who visited the gardens was 1,352,548 The Sunday visitors numbered 568,7'26, the week-day ones 783,822. The total is the highest recorded during the last seven years, with the exception of 1901, when there were 1,460,169 visitors. The greatest number on any one day was 73,566 (June 1), and the smallest 116 (June 19). It is curious that the two extremes should have occurred so close together, and probably the first time the minimum number has occurred in June. During the decade ending December 31, 1903, the number of ordinary visitors to the gardens reached close upon thirteen and a quarter millions. Besides these the gardens have been visited annually by thousands of botanists, gardeners, artists, &c. , before the time of public opening. A garden in the shade. — A garden in the shade is very often not a garden at all. How few understand the garden possibilities of shade, how many and how delightful are the plants that will grow therein, and how in- numerable are the advantages it offers to the gardener in providing a succession of even those flowers that love the sunlight ! It is but rarely that these conditions and possibilities are utilised to their full extent, or, indeed, utilised at all, and I think this is owing chiefly to the fact that manj' are unaware such possibilities exist. I form an opinion from the aspect of the shaded portion of the majority of gardens it has been my privilege to visit, where Laurels, Aucubas, Mahonias, and a few other evergreens, more or less attractive it may be, but still excessively monotonous, are the chief components of the borders from one year to another. My oljject in writing is not to suggest that one may have the garden in the shade of the same brilliant splendour, varied hues, and profusion of blossoms as the more advantageously situated portion, yet I think for originality and distinct- ness, soft and pleasing colours, and lasting flowers, the shaded garden has a charm all its own. Doubtless most of the neglect of and ignorance concerning the garden capabilities of shade are due to the fact that one can usually obtain quite sufiScient enjoyment from that part of the garden more favourably placed, a greater variety of flowers of more brilliant colouring, and an effect altogether more splendid. Those, however, who are thus content miss much. There are some flowers whose colours are never more beautiful than in the deep shade — in fact, unless seen in the shade are never seen at their best — such, for instance, as whites, pinks, pale blues, and mauves. Flowers grown in the shade are more lasting when cut than are those gathered from a border fully exposed to the sun ; they are in some cases also of a deeper hue. AVhat to plant beneath trees.— How often do we see bare and unsightly spaces beneath large trees that might ea.sily be made attractive, and in some cases really beautiful. It is useless to expect to get satisfactory results from grass, other things must be used. One of the best plants for the purpose is the small flow ered Peri- winkle, Vinca minor. With its pretty dark green leaves upon trailing shoots and pleasing blue flowers it is a delightful plant even for a good position in the garden, but it will flourish well beneath the shade of a large tree, and bring bright- ness and beauty in that usually desolate spot. A Euonymus with variegated leaves called E. radicans variegata also makes an admirable carpet of grey and green for the ground around a tree trunk. It grows freely, and only needs to be well watered during the hot weather and to have the shoots pegged down in the soil. Ivy is so common that it often escapes notice as a valuable covering for deeply shaded ground, yet it is one of the very best plants to put there. Even in the dull, foggy atmosphere of the London parks it is made use of to hide the bare soil beneath large Elms and Limes, and despite the heavy shade when the trees are in full leaf, it forms a charming bed of greenery that is much appreciated by visitors during winter when branches are bare. The St. John's Wort (Hypericum) may also be mentioned, for it would transform many a cheerless garden corner into one of pleasant greenery and yellow flowers. The common Woodruff, too, is not to be despised. Many, on the occasion of a walk through the woodland, must have noticed the masses of pretty little white flowers nestling in tufts of green beneath leaf;' branches. To have the Woodruff at its best, however, the shade must not be too dense. These are just a few common plants that come to mind for use where grass always fails to grow. — Y. Z. Dimorphotheea Ecklonis— I note that on page 360 " K. L. D.," in writing on South African plants, questions whether the subject of this note, sometimes styled the Transvaal Daisy, a name that is also often applied to Gerbera Jamesoni, will pass through the winter unharmed. I consider the Dimorphotheea a tender plant; indeed, far more so than such things as Calceolaria Bur- bidgei, Hakea suaveolens, Bowkeria triphylla, Callistemons, Abutilon vitifolium, Buddleia Col- villei, &c. I saw it in a sheltered Cornish garden two summers ago, and it had then come through the winter unprotected ; but last summer I found it had been killed during the winter. Last December I saw a plant in South Devon that had withstood several degrees of frost without injury, but this also succumbed before the spring. In November, 1902, I took up a plant, put it in a large pot, and stood it during the winter in an open verandah where it received no harm. Last winter, it being too large to pot easily, I left it undisturbed, placing several stakes through it, over which I intended to throw a mat in frosty weather. However, I left home for five weeks, and the plant was unprotected. Though looking rather shabb}- in the spring it recovered and flowered well last summer. This winter it will be left again to take its chance. There have already been about 6" of frost, but it is at present uninjured, though I shall not be in the least surprised to lose it. — S. W. Fitzhekbekt. Australian rosarians. — A graceful tribute to the memory of the late Dean Hole was paid at the show of the National R. ise Society of Victoria, says the Melbourne Leader, when a photograph of the eminent rosarian, surrounded by Niphetos blooms, occupied the place of honour in the centre of the Town Hall plaifoim. Some time ago the secretary of the Vicloi ia T-lricing Club, Mr. H. Byron Moore, sent photographs o( Roses growing at Flemington racecourse. In acknow- ledgment he received an autographed photograph from the Dean, and this picture was used for the happily expressed appreciationof Victorian rosarians at last week's show. January 7, 1905.] THE GARDEN. TREES AND SHRUBS. RHODODENDRONS AFRICA IN SOUTH larly so if flowering, it still seems astonisliing that j so few attempts are made to make special features of them, considering how handsome they are. They are really at their best during the dullest and most dreary part of winter. I think this neglect is partly accounted for from a mistaken idea many hold, that to succeed with Bamboos RHODODENDRONS will never grow in they must be grown near water or a running stream South Africa," said Mr. Khodes to me or pond. That such a notion is fallacious is amply in response to my appeal that he should proved by the fine beds, large groups, and single plant his lovely glen at Groote Schuur specimensoneoccasionally sees under quite different with that most beautiful of all English conditions, even on exposed banks. I admit, how- shrubs. However, the sight of my own ever, that their beauty is enhanced and a more collection convinced him that the southern slopes natural effect produced when grown in sheltered of Table Mountain suited them admirably, and I , nooks and dells, and if by a stream or a sheet of was instrumental in getting 1,500 planted in the water so much the better. We have been endeavour- grounds at Groote Schuur. I now enclose a photo- ing for some time to carry into practice this idea graph of the most strikingly beautiful specimen of of associating Bamboos with natural growth, the race named Pink Pearl, now growing in my In the grounds here there is a deep and narrow grounds. I understand from the raiser, Mr. John , ravine, spanned near its lower end by a picturesque stone bridge. Down this ravine a natural stream falls, making cas- cades over and around boulders of varying size and shape. Both sides of the glen are in some places rocky and almost perpendicu- lar, so much so that in planting, men, plants, and soil have to be lowered with ropes ; in tact, it 13 as wild a bit of garden as one could wish to see. Until a few- years ago this dingle was crowded to the water's edge with splendid Oak trees, tall and straight, but a terrific storm laid most of them low, and a 1 1 h o"u g h there was grandeur even then in their wild confusion, it was decided to clear the fallen ones, and cut down those left standing on the lower face. A few fallen ones were left spanning the glen from edge to edge, and at a good height above the waterfall. These, I think, improve the effect and emphasise the natural wildneas. It then occurred tons that if Bamboos would succeed there it would be an appropriate place ; hence some were planted, a few groups and large single specimens, but many — of necessity in such a position — quite small bits. It was gratifying to note how even these grew apace. The humid atmosphere, compara- tively sheltered situation, and the quantity of dead BAMBOOS IN THE OUTDOOR GARDEN, leaves which drift and decay around them suit them Admitting the fact that most Bamboos have a admirably. A fairly representative collection has withered appearance in the summer, and particu- ; been planted. Such as Arundinana bimonu, A. japonica, Phyllostachys viridi-glaucescens,?. aurea and P. fastuosa predominate, with P. Quilioi, P. Henonis, P. marliacea, Bambusa palmata, and othersin lesser numbers. P. Castillonis I have failed to establish. A. Veitchii I have reluctantly dis- carded, for, to my mind, the withered leaf margins form a serious defect in an otherwise fine Bamboo. I dare not trust the lovely and delicate B. faloa.ta in these wilds on account of its tenderness and its probable destruction by enemies from which they all suffer more or less. My friend Mr. Speed of Penrhyn Castle Gardens has to lament the great havoc worked on his fine specimens by water rats. Here we are fairly exempt from their ravages, but our Welsh mountain sheep do much harm in the winter time in comparatively open woods, and to enclose such spots as these with a fence sufficiently formidable to keep them out would rob the place of half its charm. Rabbits also do their share of nibbling as well as breaking off the young growths when sprouting through the ground, and youthful sportsmen occasionally make a fishing-rod or a whip-stock with them. Hitherto nothing but Bamboos and a group and some single plants of Cryptomeria japonica have been planted in this glen, and with the stream below and giant Oaks above the effect is natural and beautiful, especially during winter. There is certainly not much sameness in a collection of Bamboos. They vary in height from 2 feet to 20 feet, are of diverse growth, and many shades of green. To give further variety, however, we hope to plant a few Cordyline australis, Phormium tenax, and some of the strong-growing grasses, adding a clump or two of the Japanese .Wine- berry and the white-stemmed Bramble, two fine things for winter effect in clear country air. Respecting Cordyline australis, I think there iB an erroneous impression as to its hardiness. Tan-y-hwlch, North Wales. [J. Roberts. THE FERN GARDEN. RHODODENDKON PINK PEARL IN SOUTH AFRICA (THE LARGEST PLANT IN THE WORLD). Six feet wide and five feet through. Waterer, that it i probably the largest m the world. The plant was imported in 1S97, and is now 6 feet high and 5 feet through ; it has larger trusses than any variety I know, and has rejoiced the hearts of my English visitors, growing as it does with hundredsofothervarieties in juxtaposition with the Papyrus of the Nile and the weeping Pine of New Zealand. H. M. Arderne. The mil, Claremont, Cape Toiim. THE KING OF THE MALE FERNS. THE common Male). Fern (Lastrea filix- mas) is grown in thousands of gardens, even in town ones, and yet practioaUy that far more beautiful form of it, known to Fern-lovers as the King of the Male Ferns, Listrea pseudo-mas cristata, is never seen amongst them. It is as hardy, and in one sense even more so, sirice it belongs to a subsection of the family which is quite evergreen, and when protected from the battering influences of winter storm and snow retains its fronds in perfection well into the fol- lowing season, and until the new fronds have com- pleted their growth. It is therefore admirably suited for winter decoration, when the common ones have dropped their fronds and practically dis- appeared. Under glass it loses absolutely nothing of its attractiveness, owing to the tough nature of its fronds and erect habit of growth. Apart, too, from these features, it is one of our few native hardy Ferns, which, under congenial conditions and proper treatment, becomes in time a Tree Fern with a well developed trunk. This habit of growth is induced by persistent removal for a few years of the sideshoots or offsets whicn it produces on the basis of the fronds, a tendency which is subee quently much reduced as the trunk rises from the soil. We have a splendid specimen, now over thirty years in our possession, with a trunk some U feet high, and a crown of thirteen spreading fronds. As its name implies, it is a tasselled form of the species, both the frond tips and those of the side divisions having fine many stranded tassels as their terminals, rendering it extremely handsome. The original plant was found wild about half a century ago at St. Austell in Corn- wall, and apart from its free propagation by removal of the lateral offsets, it comes very freely and truly from its abundant spores. The result of this is that small specimens are obtainable for a few pence, so that its acquisition is easy enough, while as it is quite capable of outliving its owner THE GARDEN. [January 7, 1905. F^t<^>'^ on November 20, and continued without a break until January 20. During those eight weeks there were at Berkhamsted only three nights ■without some frost, and on the coldest night the thermome- ter, exposed on the surface of the snow, registered nearly a zero temperature — .31' of frost. Where Bracken can be readily obtained it should be loosely stacked up in some dry place early in the autumn so that it may be ready for all such emergencies. When cut before it becomes brittle it is one of the best materials for protecting JRoses, as it is light and can be easily inserted among the branches without injuring them, even should the shoots be partially frozen at the time. Hay is another excellent material which may be used in the same way under similar circum- stances. I mention these as temporary expedients to be adopted in case of a hard frost setting in unexpectedly early in the winter. Asa rule, the second week in December is quite soon enough to begin protecting Tea Koses, for not until unless starved to death by neglect and drought, then, in most years, is the growth of the plants and grows, moreover, in any garden soil, the ' sufficiently arrested ; so that a moderately first outlay IB amply repaid No better Fern, I j^^rd frost in the beginning of the winter is to indeed can be recommended by way of samp u,g I be welcomed, as it brings the plants to a stand- Zt anvhodfl^rnfrinl ?' ^^ ^'^-'^""1 '^^'^^^ ^nd di;ests them of the greater part of tnat anybody acquiring a specimen and giving it ii • f i- the little care it needs would speedily look about : ^^f ^'^^^^S^- for some of its companions, and in time see the | The comparatively modern plan of earthing foolishness of growing what Fern connoisseurs up dwarf Tea Roses is a simple and excellent regard as weeds, i.e., the common kinds in popular j one — that is to say, the surrounding soil is vogue. The Male Fern species alone has yielded | drawn over the crown of the plants to the depth scores of forms far more charming and interesting , of several inches. It is truly surprising the than the^nornials, some small enough for Wardian , non-conduotingpropertiesof this slight covering ■""" " I-'-ing," of grander presence, , of earth, for at pruning time, after a severe winter, when no sound wood is to be WAY or PKOTECTISG STANDARD TEA ROSES. ■cases, others, like the ' and fit for decorating the more aristocratic con- servatories in existence. Chas. T. BfirrERY. THE ROSE GARDEN. no sound slight covering, IS to be seen above that slight covering, beneath it the shoots will nearly always be found to have remained altogether uninjured ; of course, the drier and looser the earth the more complete will be the protection it affords. The shoots THE WINTER PROTECTION OF TEA of certain varieties of the Hybrid Perpetuals POSE^ ^"'^ Hybrid Teas appear to be quite as tender 1. ^ ' ' ^^ those of the Teas, and for that reason the Hi> touch ot real winter cold which dwarf plants of both are here earthed up at the came suddenly upon their gardens same time. Indeed, but for the extra trouble, towards the end of November must I should earth up all the Roses in my collec- fiave caused the thoughts of all tion, as I feel sure the plants would be true Itosarians to turn to their Tea benefited and the lower buds on the best Itoses, and to consider what had best shoots improved, to protect them from injury should ' The one difficulty is how to afibrd protection T be done the frost continue. It is seldom these early ; to the heads of the standard Teas; 1 have trosts are very severe or last any length of , tried a good many methods and have come to 'tune, in 1800, however, cold weather set in : the conclusion that the one I now adopt is as I. . good and simple as any. A central stake, rising about a foot above the head of each jilant, is driven firmly into the ground close to the standard itself, and then fastened to it. The shoots are afterwards tied loosely to the stake in a roughly conical form, and afterwards lightly thatched over with straw or Bracken; which ever material is used it should be tied firmly to the top of the stake. Two other ties lower down will also be necessary in order to kee]) the conical cap in its place in windy weather. Of the two, straw is the more effectual, as it holds less moisture, and more completely throws off rain and snow. Bracken, however,hasthe great advantageof beingfar less conspicuous, and consequently less unsightly. 1 have this year adopted a somewhat similar plan with my dwarf Teas, the shoots of which are secured to a short central stake after a handful of Bracken had been placed in the middle of the plant. For tender climbing Roses planted against walls nothing can well be better than fine cotton netting stretched over them, or, failing this, a double layer of ordinary fish netting, while the lower part of the plants may be pro- tected with Bracken or litter. Another way would be to work in a little Bracken or pieces of Fir along the leading branches. Soils and climates vary so greatly in different localities as regards their influence upon Roses, and winters, too, differ considerably, so that it is impossible to lay down any fixed rules as to what protection is necessary under all circum- stances. We must, however, never forget that there are such things as killing frosts, although they may occur but seldom, and that Tea Roses are at the best only half-hardy plants. There- fore, in my opinion, the wisest plan is at the beginning of each winter to provide the plants some such moderate protection as I have sug- gested, if only for the sense of comfort and security the rosarian himself feels when he knows that whatever may happen afterwards in the way of high winds, deep snows, or intense frosts, his favourites are safe from serious injury. Edwakd Mawley liosebank, Berkhamsted. THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE OLD POT-HERBS IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. SOME of these old pot-herbs are beautiful things, deserving a place in any flower garden. Sage, for instance, a ' half shrubby plant with handsome grey leaf and whorled spikes of purple flowers, is a good plant both for winter and summer, for the leaves are persistent and the plant well clothed throughout the year. Hyssop is another such hand- some thing, of the sr.me family, with a quantity of purple bloom in the autumn, when it is a great favourite with the butterflies and bumble-bees. This is one of the plants that were used for an edging in gardens in Tudor days, as we read in Parkinson's " Paradisus," where Lavender Cotton, Marjoram, Savoury, and Thyme are also named as among the plants used for the same purpose. I-tue, with its neat bluish green foliage, is also a capital plant for the garden where this colour of leafage is desired. Fennel, with its finelj'-divided leaves and hand- some yellow flower, is a good border flower, tliough rarely so used, and blooms in the late autunni. f^avender and Rosemary are both so familiar as flower garden plants that we forget that tliey can also be used as neat edgings if from the time they are young plants they are kept clipped. Borage has a handsome blue flower, as good as its relation the larger Anchusa. Tansy, best known in gardens by the handsome Achillea Eupatorinm, was an old inmate of the herb garden. Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) has beautiful foliage, pale green and Fern- ■i^S, :^' # January 7, 1905.] THE GAKDEN. like, with a good umbel of white bloom, and is a ■most desirable plant to group with and among ■early-blooming flowers. And we all know what a good garden flower is the common pot Marigold. — Frcnn ElgooiVa ' ' Some English Gardens. " A PLACE FOR CLIMBERS. Aa a rule, a pergola is best when spanning a wall leading from one portion of the garden to another, and it should be fully exposed to the sun, so that it will form a cool, shady walk during the hottest part of the day. Its ■material is a matter for individual consideration, but I think, on the whole, the massive brick or stone pillars occasionally seen have but little to recommend them. They rarely become quite ■•overed with the climbers, and at the best are very ugly for several years. A framework of iron and wire trellis is neat and durable, and easily hidden by the foliage. But perhaps the most appropriate-looking is a simple pergola formed of Oak or young Larch. Sticks of the former from coppice wood which has been "rinsed" are very suitable, and can often be had fairly cheap. I know the bark on the wood for pergolas is considered to give it a more natural appearance ; but no matter how constructed, the pergola is a purely artificial adjunct to the garden. The bark would soon begin to falloflfin patches, and while on it not only harbours insect pests, but by holding moisture hastens the decay of the post. The uprights must be firmly fixed, and the structure should be sufficiently high to allow a tall person to walk underneath without having to continually "duck " under the trailing growths. What TO Plant. — This is a matter for individual taste, but in most instances Roses, Honeysuckles, Clematises, and the old-fashioned Jasmine will predominate, and many annuals — such as Ipomcea, Tropaeolum, and Convolvulus — will be added. A. C. Bartlett. COLOURED PLATE. PLATK 1265. WALL GARDENING. SNAPDRAGONS (ANTIRRHINUM). THE beautiful free-growing Snapdragons, with large flowers of pure and bright colouring, seeds of which are to be had of our best seeds- men, are such grand garden plants that to see a garden in which they are not amongst the best of the late summer flowers is to receive an impression of wilful neglect of the best things on the part of the garden's owner. But now that wall gardening is so generally practised in places where a change of level in the ground offers an opportunity of adopting this delightful way of growing many a good plant, these grand Snapdragons are among those that first present themselves to the mind of the thoughtful gardener. They are in three sizes, tall, intermediate, and dwarf. The dwarf kinds are not greatly prized by those who look for the greatest beauty of which these good things are capable, but the intermediate and the tall may be praised and welcomed with loud acclaim, as the pictures well show. For technical reasons the large group in one of the pictures of the inter- mediate size — the picture that has two Foxgloves at the further end — does not show well, their strong yellow colouring coming too dark in photo- graphy, only one white plant near to the grass showing properly. The wild Snapdragon is a native of old walls, ruins, and chalk pits, thus giving a plain indication of its best use in gardens. Those shown in the illus- tration grew with amazing freedom, and remained in flower for many weeks. They are entirely white, and the ett'ect is more beautiful when one colour only is used. G. Jekyll. SANDER'S HYBRID NICOTIANAS. (with a coloured plate of new varieties of nicotiana sander,*.) A M O N G the exhibits from Messrs. /\ Sander and Sons at the last Temple / \ show was a collection of hybrid y Y. Nicotianas, which attracted much attention on account of the size and variety of colour of their flowers. They failed to create a sensation in the exhibition tent because of their surroundings, but anyone who has seen them in the St. Albans or Bruges nurseries of Messrs. Sander and Sons will know how very efiective they are. Their history is not unlike that of the hybrid Streptocarpuses. We had possessed various species of Nicotiana, some of them grown only because they were forms of the two great commercial Tobacco plants, N. rustica and N. Tabacum, and some because they had a deco- rative value in the garden. The best of the latter, N. alata, commonly known as N. afRnis and N. sylvestris found general favour as border plants, their white fragrant flowers being produced in abundance and almost throughout the summer without much effort on the part of the cultivator. But no one had crossed these plants, probably because it did not appear to be worth while. About four years ago, however, Messrs. Sander and Sons obtained from their collector, M. Forget, during an expedition in Brazil in search of Cattleyas, seeds of a Nicotiana which produced plants not unlike N. alata in habit, but with bright rose-red flowers. They named it after the collector, and happily decided to test its merits at once as a breeder by crossing it with other species. The results have been most gratifying, and we may expect that the race thus started will, under the crossing and selective process now so well understood, in a very i-hort time develop into one of the most useful and beautiful garden pla.nts we possess. This year Messrs. Sander and Sons are offerin?, through the. seedsmen of this and other countries, seeds of a hybrid Nicotiana obtained by crossing N. alata with N. forgetiana, and which they have called N. Sanderse. A beauti- ful coloured plate of it was published in the .July number of Flora and Sylva, from which I quote the following particulars : "N. Sanderas has all the good qualities of N. alata, plus the colour and flat, open - faced flowers of N. forgetiana. A large houseful of it in flower at St. Albans a few weeks ago was a most pleasing picture, each plant being about 3 feet high, leafy to the base, with from six to nine branches, divided again into at least half a dozen branchlets, each bearing from six to ten open flowers, with many buds to follow. Every plant was an elegant arrangement of rich green foliage and clusters of large rose-red flowers. The largest flowers I measured were 'ih inches across. These plants were grown in pots, but I am assured by Mr. Sander that equally good results may be obtained from plants grown in the open border. No doubt N. Sanderse will be more generally valued as a plant for the open air flower-bed, but it will also be of considerable decorative value as a pot plant for the conservatory. It produces seeds freely and comes true from seeds." The six forms represented in the accom- panying plate have been produced by crossing the hybrid N. Sanderse with N. alata and N. sylvestris, and by crossing the .ast named W-9'k %,/^^ SNAPDRAGOMS 1M wall I^ a EERK31IIRE GARDE.\. THE GARDEN. [January 7, 1905. with N. forgetiana ; in short, we may call these seedlings the outcome of a free mixing of the three species, N. forgetiana, N. alata, and N. sylvestris. It is satisfactory to learn that these seedlings are not only fertile and prolific in seeds, but that they come true from seeds. This is also the case with selected forms of Streptocarpus. Messrs. Sander and Sons inform me that the six seedlings here figured have been in full bloom all summer in the open ground, and were attractive until the frost cut them down. They have seeded freely, and there is no more difficulty in growing them every year from seeds than is experienced with the common Tobacco plants. I am informed by Messrs. Sander and Sons that seeds of these new hybrids will be ofl:ered next year (1906). !|The Nicotiana Sandene hybrids depicted in this illustration will not be in the market either as plant or as seed until next year (1906), and the only Nicotiana which can at present be procured is the original type or carmine variety, which, through the in- termediary of the London wholesale trade, is obtainable from all seeds- men throughout the Empire. It may be worth while to give here a few particulars of the genus Nico- tiana. It is related to Oes- trum, Petunia, and Salpiglossis, ome fifty spe- cies having been described. Most of them are, however, weeds of no horticultural interest, the best, so far as one can judge from dried specimens, being those we grow, including the species named above and N. tomentosum (Colossus), a handsome foliage plant of which there is a striking though somewhat delicate variegated variety. The genus is most famed for the two Tobacco- yielding species, namely, N. Tabacum, originally from America, but now cultivated throughout the tropics and said to yield all the better quality Tobaccos, those of coarser, stronger quality being from N. rustica, also of American origin. They differ from each other in the colour of their flowers, N. rustica being rose-tinted, the other being yellow, and in the form of their leaves, N. rustica having broad cordate foliage, whilst in N. Tabacum the leaves narrow gradually towards the base and run some distance down the stem. It is probable that the two species cross readily when grown near each other. W. W. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. before those of C. simplex, and 'in" good numbers, making it a most effective border plant. It has been in cultivation for nearly a century, and is figured in the Botanical Mafjaxim at t. 2069. Some of the flower spikes are nearly 12 inches in length. It is usually found growing in shady woods on the high mountains of Carolina. C. elata grows ^nrr °" 'l'^'.^"^^^ ^°'' P'"-"^ "^^ ^^'^ K be 1 •,-.■.- . . a ^~ 1 ^ ii 1 I ■ — ^ pruned. Cut out dead wood, weak growths and leaving sufficient to crop, pruning ' the skin is sott primro.se, flashed and spotted I % growths, and unripe points of gross being done in the autumn. This treatment may with rich carmine-red on the sunny side. The | ■ X shoots of the Roses. Clematis mon- be adopted for other Brambles, though I have cut I fjesh is white, fairly firm, and the flavour if the [ tana and others of this class do not the growth back like the Raspberry when space is fruit is eaten before it is too ripe is pleasant. : require severe pruning, flowering as they do on old not plentiful. I Those having an orchard house should grow a wood. C. Jackmanii and allied sections must be Strawberky-Raspeekby. few treesof this varietyinpots_,as whengrown in I out well back — even to the ground — if the space My note would not be complete without naming this way the fruits take on an intensely brilliant for ^covering^ is not very large. Garden Rosea this as a fruit. It is, however, of small value, i colour. The fruits are like those of the Arbutus and of poor ] It is exxellent for exhibition, and is ripe I flavour. It makes a dwarf bush, and only needs a from November to January. The tree is little cutting back in winter. I ^f spreading growth. It should be grafted The Barberry, on the Paradise stock, and the trees should be of which vulgaris is one of the best known, is I occasionally root-pruned when young to ^pro- worth culture as it makes a nice preserve, and is I mote fertility. The variety was raised in Kent, APPLE GASCOYNE's SCARLET. (Size oj oriijiiial, 3-1 iiiches high, i inches wide.) useful for tarts mixed with other fruits. It grows freely, and the old wood must be shortened back and new growth encouraged. G. Wvthes. FRUITS IN SEASON. APPLE GASCOYNE'S SCARLET. WE hear much about imported Apples being more handsome and richer in colouring than ours, and undoubtedly it is true. American and other growers find out the weakness of the British public for highly coloured and ornate fruit, a]:)art from any quality of flavour they may happen to possess. Hence their planting orchards with few varieties, and those of highly attractive appearance. Let the above variety once be grown by the acre in England and placed on our markets by the ton, as imported Apples are, and we should soon be rid of the reproach that our Ajjples lack_; in brilliancy of colouring. This is and received the highest award (first-class certificate) from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1887. O. T. E. PEAR BEURRE D'ANJOU. This is a useful, hardy, prolific, and handsome fruit, and is well worthy of inclusion in all good collections of winter Pears. It grows to a large size, is even and regular in its outline, which is roundish. The skin is a beautiful yellow, tinged with green, and studded thickly with tin}' brown, green, and crimson dots. Its flesh is white, melting, and juicy, of a very sweet and delicious flavour, with a distinct perfume. The tree is hardy and a robust grower, and succeeds well as a pyramid or espalier in the open ground, and is best worked on the Quince stock. This Pear is in season from Christmas to March. Owen Thomas. APPLE STURMER PIPPIN. I AM glad to find that this good Apple is receiving more attention. 1 consider it unsurpassed either for dessert or cooking in March and April, the flavour of well-ripened fruit being delicious. Some complain of its small size, but when grown in good soil it is as large as Cox's Orange Pippin. J. C. generally should be attended to, dead wood and weak growths cut out, further pruning being left rntil later. So with Teas and Noisettes. Assuming that dead stems and tops of tender and herbaceous plants have been cleared from the front of Shrubberies, this time of year affords a good opportunity for giving these a thorough over hauling, and it is a good plan first to make a general survey. See whether one shrub en- croaches on another, and if so give more space to the better one. When this is properly attended to most shrubs need but little pruning ; merely cut out an odd shoot here and there to balance the growth. This should be done with a knife or secateur. Above all things avoid using shears among shrubs. Where usually the shrubs are thickest, instead of digging the leaves in, it is preferable to spread a little soil over them to prevent their being blown about, thus saving the roots from mutilation, and feeding the plants at the same time. The front roust be dug and manured for the reception of flowering plants in their season. During bad weather men can be employed under cover making labels. Stakes will also be wanted in quantities and in various sizes, and should be prepared, as well as shreds and nails. Cuttings of the varioua shrubs likely to be re- quired in coming years should be made and laid, in soil safely until favour- able weather admits of their being properly placed in for rooting. Order flower seeds without delaj'. John Roberts. The Gardens, Tan-y-hwlch, North Wale!t. INDOOR GARDEN. General Remarks.— With the advent of the New Year and the gradual lengthening of the days renewed activity will soon be noticeable in the plant houses. It is necessary, therefore, that all cleansing, both of the plants and houses not already accomplished, should be done without delay. Cleanliness is a great factor in successful eardening. The soil for potting should be placed under cover so as to be in suitable condition when required. The pots should be overhauled, and any sizes of which the stock is low ordered at once. On wet days help from outside can be obtained for scrubbing "pots and cleaning crocks, thus having everything to hand when rtquired. Work such as this saves much trouble later on when time is more precious. Stove. — The temperature at [this feason should not be loo high, so as to escite unduly the plants' growth. If too much fire-heat is given thrips and red Epider will soon make their appearance. A January 7, 1905.J THE GARDEN. ]3 temperature of 6(1° on cold nights and 65° when the weather is mild, with a rise of from 5° to 10° daring the day is quite sufficient. On very cold nights, if the temperature drops as low as 55°, it will be better than too much 6re-heat with its attendant dryness. All watering should be done before midday. A slight syringing twice a dav, early morning and about two o'clock, will be suffi- cient. Damp the paths and stages, especially near the hot-water pipes, several times during the day. Euphorbia (Poinsettia) pulcherrima and E. ]"acquinia3liora will last longer in flower if removed to an intermediate and rather drier house. Conservatory and GREEyHonsE. — In these houses a damp stagnant atmosphere must be avoided. The bottom ventilators should never be closed, except during very severe frost or a cutting wind. Sufficient fire-heat should be given to keep the atmosphere buoj'ant. A night temperature of from 45° to 50°, with a rise of from 5° to 10° during the day, will be ample. At this season it will not be difficult to keep the houses bright. The late Chrysanthemums are still a prominent feature, L. Canning (white and red), W. H. Lincoln, Golden Gem, Mathew Hodgson, Framfleld Pink, Princess Victoria (white and yellow), Georgina Pitcher, and Mme. P. Rivoire are a few of the most useful. In most houses, especially those of large size, a warm position can usually be found for such plants as Begonia Gloirede Lorraine and its varieties, Messrs. Veitch's new race of winter-flowering Begonias, Reinwardtias trigyna and tetragyna. Plumbago rosea, and Jacobinia cocoinea. BtJLES. — Successive batches of Roman Hyacinths, Paper White and other varieties of Polyanthus Narcissus, with Due Van Thol Tulips, give a dis- play till the earliest of the general collection come into flower. Forcing Shrubs. — Introduce a few of these into heat; begin with Prunus japonioa fl.-pl. , Deutzia gracilis, SpiriBi argata. Azalea mollis, and Rhododendron prajoox. A Vinery or Peach house which is being started will suit their requirements admirably in the way of moisture, and gradual increase of temperature. Royal Gardens, Kew. A. Osboen. FRUIT GARDEN. Forcing Fruit Trees. — It is not until the New Year that the forcing of early fruit becomes general in gardens. To bring this important work to a successful issue much care and forethought are necessary in timing the respective crops so that a supply of soft fruit is forthcoming at the proper period. No matter how good the quality of the fruit may be, if it is not ready at the time it is most desired great disappointment ensues. We find it a great help to have a neat board hanging in each house, on which a record is kept of the dates of the different phases of development which take place, from closing the house to gathering the fruit. These records will be found of interest and assistance for reference the following year. Melons. — To have ripe fruit at the beginning of May seeds of a reliable sort should be sown at once. Fill 3-inch pots with loam soil, which should be warm, with a little finely broken mortar rubble mixed. Sow two seeds in each pot, so as to be on the safe side in case one fails to germinate, eventually removing the weaker one. Plunge the pots in a bottom-heat of 80° till the seedlings are well through, then place them on a shelf near the glass to enoi>urage a sturdy growth. Some people prefer fruiting their earliest Melons in pots, but we find the ordinary bed most satisfactory. As the earliest crops benefit by a hot-bed, the material should be prepared at once of well fermented leaves and stable litter in equal parts. In forming the bed the fermenting material should be raised, so as to allow for a bed of soil 18 inches wide by 9 inches deep, the latter being brought within a few inches of the trellis. It is important to make the soil firm ; a loose rooting medium is conducive to soft, pithy growth, which is very liable to canker. A barrowload or two of old mortar rubble will improve soil of a retentive nature. Endeavour to make the season of growth as short as possible consistent with strong, healthy foliage ; this is necessary to procure fruits of the best flavour. Cucumbers. — It is only in the most favoured districts that winter Cucumbers can be grown with any success. No time should be lost in raising j'oung plants, so that a new plantation can be made at the earliest opportunity. S')w the seeds singly in o-inch pots in a compost of loam and leaf-soil in equal parts. The soil should be warm and in a condition that no water will be required till after germination. The seedlings should be potted on, when ready, into 6 inch pots and kept near the glass, so that strong plants may be had at the time of planting. A hot-bed as recommended for Melons should be made, but a covering a few inches deep of half - rotten Oak leaves will be found of great benefit to the roots. A night temperature of from 65° to 70°, accord- ing to the outside temperature, will suit both Melons and Cucumbers, but they enjoy a warm moist atmosphere during the day. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. KITCHElSr GARDEN. Preparing for the Year. — A great deal of profitable pleasure may be derived from a study of the capabilities of the ground at command and from planning the coming campaign. It has been well said that a day lost is never regained, therefore now is the time to get work forward. All vacant ground must be trenched or dug without delay. Should the weather be favourable, and labour will allow, deep tillage will give the best results. If the lower spit is unfit for the top, it should nevertheless be turned over. Surface soil must be left in a rough condition, in readiness for the purifying influences of frost and snow, should they prevail. Take advantage of frosty mornings to have manure wheeled on to unoccupied ground to be in readiness for digging. Manure and rubbish heaps may also be turned, with a view to preparing compost for improving shallow parts of the garden at some future time. Where old buildings exist every effort should be made to get a quantity of old lime rubble. This gives good results on many crops. Pea and Bean stakes had better be overhauled, the best of the old ones retained, new ones painted and trimmed. All should be graded so as to avoid confusion when staking time arrives. Peas and Beans. — The first sowings may now be made, SJ-inch or 4-inch pots being preferable to boxes for convenient transplanting at a later date. The pots can be drained with a small quantity of partly decomposed leaves, the remaining part being filled up with light friable soil, pressed fairly firm. Soil from an old Cucumber or Melon bed anwers the purpose admirably. It should be well moistened with tepid water. Plant from four to five seeds in each pot, and cover lightly. The pots can now be put into a house with a temperature of from 50° to 55°, and if kept at a moderate distance from hot- water pipes little water will be required for a few days. For early Peas Laxton's William I. and Sutton's May Queen are reliable varieties. Broad Beans should be sown in pots of the same size as those advised for Peas, with the same drainage and soil. Fewer seeds are required, two in each pot being sufficient, one of those to be drawn out, retaining the best plant after they have attained the length of 4 inches. Earl3' Long Pod and Green Windsor are favourite sorts. Salad. — A pinch of Lettuce seed should now be sown. All the Year Round and Epicure are early sorts and of good flavour. Sow in seed pans or boxes, which must be well drained with clean potsherds. Over these place some half de- composed leaves, thus allowing a free passage of water, and affording a good rooting medium later on. Fill the boxes or pans to within a quarter of an inch from the top with light and fresh soil, some that was collected where turf has been chopped up will answer well. Sow all over the surface, not too thickly, and slightly cover with soil. Water very lightly through a fine rose. Then place a piece of brown paper over the top, as all seeds sown at this date germinate much quicker in the dark ; place in a house with a temperature of about 50° or 55°. As soon as germination has taken place remove the paper and place in a light and airy position to prevent damping. .J. .Jeffrey. The GardeuD, St. Mary's Ide, Kirkcndhritjht, N. B. CORRESPONDENCE. ( The Editor is not responnibU for the opinions expressed by corre^pondtnts. ) LESSONS FROM CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOWS. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] SIR, — A question respecting the growing of these admirable flowers of the early winter months has of late so frequently and prominently come before us, that it is evident that it will be well to put it plainly before the horticultural public, with a view to ascertaining whether the opinion that we hold is or is not in harmony with that of the greater number of the owners of good gardens. Gardeners are naturally influenced by shows, and at shows of Chrysanthemums they have, until quite recently, seen only single blooms produced at the sacrifice of a whole plant. The show has there- fore taught them that the only flowers worthy of the best culture and the hiiihest consideration are these single blooms of the largest size. It is one of the cases in which it seems to us that the teaching of the show is not of the soundest. The giant blooms of perfect symmetry are, without doubt, evidences of cultural skill ; but, after all, the thing is done more or less by a recipe, and in many cases the admired perfection is arrived at by processes of manipulation known as "dressing," such as cannot claim to be included within the bounds of legitimate horti- culture. Then the large flowers are of very little use except upon the show table, while their production involves considerable expense and amentable wastefulness. They are of a size quite unsuited to room decoration, and the large, globular shape into which they are pushed by high feeding deprives the flower of its natural and graceful beauty of form. If private gardeners were to visit the factories where the market blooms are grown, they would see cultured skill directed to the most useful purpose ; the purpose that, we fully believe, would be most desired by the greater number of private people. This fact of the want of naturally-grown Chry- santhemums has been brought to bear upon horticultural societies, and classes including them are now usual in the schedules. We believe that these classes, and the general recognition of their utility, will gain ground by leaps and bounds ; but it is mainly for the owners of gardens to provide the powerful impetus that shall give lively move- ment to the production of the more useful forms of this grand winter flower. The question, therefore, that we wish to ask the owners of gardens where indoor Chrvsanthemums are grown in some quantity, is : What kind of plants do they wish to have grown for them ? Do they wish for the single blooms of large size ; the whole plant, with all the labour and house room its production involves, being given to the making of the one giant flower ; or do they want graceful, branching bushes, well set with abundant bloom, as pot plants for room or conservatory decoration, or for yielding a good store of flowers tor cutting ? Good taste and the better knowledge are making rapid strides in all paths of horticulture. Already, in Cbrysanthemum shows, the ugly old way of training the plants as round balloons, evenly spotted with flowers, is extinct. Those who grow for exhibition have come to see that it is the most senseless and unnatural form into which they can possibly coerce the branches of an erect-growing, half-woody-stemmed plant. It is only reasonable to hope that within a very few years gardeners in general will, of their own desire, be directing their ..kill and intelligence, and their daily increasing 14 THE GARDEN. r January 7, 1905 knowledge of what is of truest beauty and fittest development, to the plants entrusted to them, rather than to the unthinking pursuit of the dull and lifeless ideal of mere size. A great power for good is in the hands of the organisers of shows, and in country places much may be done by individual amateurs, either by offering prizes for naturally-grown plants well grouped, or by having their plants so grown as to show their utmost beauty, and by exhibiting them, not for competition, but for e.Kg No 1730.— Vol. LXVII. January 14, 190.5. GARDEN WORK AND HEALTH. NO one who pays the least attention to the ebb and flow of public taste can fail to note the ever-rising tide of the gardening instinct in all classes of English society. In striking contrast to many other pursuits the interest in matters horticultural flows on and on, but never does it ebb. There are few out- door amusements — unless, indeed, they are bolstered up by fictitious excitements— of which the same remark can be made. The last thirty years have seen the wax and wane of many open-air games and occupations. Tennis and croquet, so absorbing in their day, have had their ups and downs. Bicycling — useful as it is — does not hold the position in public favour which it did a few years ago. Motoring, though just now in the ascending scale, may have given place in another decade — who knows ? — to air- ships or some other new craze. The young and the strong may indulge in these and many more pastimes while health and strength last ; then the wear and tear of the nervous system begins to tell upon them, and they drop behind in the race for distinction, while the weakly are left out of the running altogether. Doubt- less all these in moderation tend to healthful- ness of body and mind, but it is just at the point where all of them fail in their turn that gardening comes in and fills the gap, and happy is he or she who has a good foundation of expe- rience to begin upon. The reason why gardening will always hold its own is not far to seek. Nature— the Mother of Gardens — holds in her bountiful hands the inexhaustible gift of Life, and Horticulture is one of her chosen handmaidens to distribute the blessings which she is able and willing to bestow upon all who will work for them. In many branches of Natural History destruction is bound to precede exact know- ledge. The entomologist pins his beetles to the board. The ornithologist shoots his bird to make sure of its species. The gardener, on the contrary, cherishes the germ ; his aim is not destruction, but growth and progress in the pursuit of practical knowledge, and the result of his work is living beauty. And while he toils to wrest her secrets from Nature, she rewards him, all unwitting, with the health of mind and body which comes of congenial occupation in the open air. It is true, in a measure, that the gardener must be born, not made, and that, just as we have met with isolated cases in which the song of birds gives pain rather than pleasure, so here and there we may find those, so closely wedded to the life of towns, that a garden to them would be as a waste howling wilderness. But even such as these depend upon the products of the soil so long as they come to them without pains or trouble. The health and enjoyment, however, that follow on genuine work in a garden never come to such as these. There is good reason to hope that the thousands of new members who have joined the Koyal Horticultural Society in recent years, as well as the tens of thousands of amateurs who subscribe to the horticultural journals, are not mere idle followers of fashion, but have found out for themselves that health and peace and lasting happiness are bound up in a very real way with the honest and hearty interest they take in their gardens. We have heard an ere-while smart soldier, now an eminent horticulturist, declare that he had tried most ways of amusement, but had never found any pursuit so engrossing or so plea- surable as the cultivation and ordering of his garden. We have known delicate boys and girls, upon whom doctoring seemed to be thrown away, recover health and strength in tending the garden set aside for them to work in. We have been acquainted with veterans of both sexes who, to the last days of a green old age, have taken the liveliest delight in garden work and garden lore. And have we not all made friends with children who revel in their own little out-of-the-way plots where they may grub as much as they please, without let or hindrance 1 It is for this reason we think the articles on " The Child's Garden " that are now appear- ing will be read with interest, and be the means of bringing rosy cheeks to our girls and boys. Naturally, it is a sincere pleasure to the promoters of The Gaeden to be able to help forward an occupation so health-giving and so fruitful in satisfying results — not only to individuals but far beyond all selfish aims — to the nation at large. We may be sure that no pursuit will give quicker or better returns in health and well being for thought and work and money expended than horticul- ture in any of its varied aspects. For in a well- ordered garden good work goes hand in hand with good play, and many another bright and pleasant thing, and we feel that there is no exaggeration in calling it, after John Parkin- son's old-world phrase, "in verydeed an Earthly Paradise." NEW AND RARE PLANTS AND FRUITS. The following flowers and fruits were certifi- cated by the various committees of the Royal Horticultural Society at the exhibition on the 2nd inst. They may, therefore, be con- sidered valuable additions to the list of plants worth cultivating: Ch}-ysanthemum Market Gold. — This is a late variety that has flowers of moderate size, which should prove most useful for decorative work. They are of a rich golden yellow colour, The plants shown were about 4 feet high, From Lord Aldenham, Elstree, Herts (gardener, Mr. E. Beckett). Award of merit. Pear Santa Glaus. — An award of merit was given to this new Pear when shown by Colonel Brymer, M.P., Dorchester. It is evidently a good late variety. It bears a strong resem^ blance to Beurr6 Diel, and, although the parentage was not given, we should think it probable that Beurr6 Diel was one of the parents. The fruit is almost wholly covered with russet, and has a somewhat gritty flesh and sweet flavour. There are none too many good late Pears, so that this will doubtless find many admirers. Apple FenrCi Wonder.— A handsome new cooking variety, marked by several prominent ridges, which give it a very uneven outline. It is a large fruit, richly-coloured on the sunny side, striped and flushed with crimson. An award of merit was given by the fruit com^ mittee. Itwas shown by the Earl of Stradbroke, Henham, Wangford, Sufi'olk. Gyp>ripedmm westfieldense. — The conspicuous features of this new hybrid between C. leeanum and C. polletianum superbum are the tall, erect flower-stalks (they are quite 15 inches high) and the distinct clear colouring of the flowers. The dorsal sepal is beautifully marked with lines of rose-purple dots upon a blush ground that fades to white at the sepal edge. The petals and lip are shining ruby-brown ; the former have a crinkled margin, which exposes to view the green colouring of the under-surface, and gives an added picturesqueness to the flower. This Cypripedium was shown by Mr. F. Wellesley, Westfield, Woking. Award of merit. Gypripedium Memoria Juninghamiae. — The parentage of this new Lady's Slipner is not known, but C. lathamianum and C. Boxalli were suggested as the probable parents. The petals, which have indented edges, are so arranged as almost to meet at the lip ; they, together with the latter, are dark shining brown. The dorsal sepal is heavily marked ii) the centre with purple-brown upon a green ground, leaving a broad margin of white. It was shown by Mr. F. Wellesley, Westfield, Woking. Award of merit. Cypripedium Alcibiades. — C. leeanum gigan- teum and C. M. de Curte are the parents of this new hybrid Orchid, which is a very hand- 18 THE GARDE^J. [January 14, 1905. some flower. The dorsal sepal is large and dotted with purple upon a white ground marked with green at the base. The petals are horizontally arranged, and, together with the lip, are green, tinged witli brown. Exhibited by Captain Holford, U.I.E., Westonbirt, Tetbury (Orchid grower, Mr. Alexander). Award of merit. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. To Ekcoueage a Greater Knowledge OF Trees and Shrubs. WE have received a letter from the Hon. Yicary Gibbs, whose excellent lecture on the winter effect of some trees and shrubs will be fresh in the memory of those who heard it at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, to the eflect that he desires to oiler a prize of ttvo c/uineas for the best answers to the following questions. All gardeners in private employ are allowed to compete. It is expected that head gardeners where more than five are kept will not enter this competition. Mr. Gibbs's desire is to encourage an interest in trees and shrubs amongst young gardeners, and we hope this desire will be gratified. QUESTIONS. I. — Mention twelve effective shrubs flowering between September 1 and April 1. II. — Mention a class of deciduous trees that bears heavy or frequent pruning very badly, and a class of conifer that bears it particularly well. III. — Mention a Spirasa which has no external resemblance to other plants of that class, but rather simulates a Spurge. IV. — If you had to plant six large deciduous masses of cheap, hardy, vigorous plants, indifferent as to soil, &c., suit- able for cutting down every spring, so as to produce a good colour eflect in winter, what would you select ? V. — Mention a common deciduous tree and a shrub of trailing habit of which the popular names suggest that they are of a completely different order to that to which they belong. VI. — Mention six dioecious trees or shrubs. VII. — Mention four hardy deciduous conifers. VIII. — What deciduous trees stand wind best, and which worst ? IX. — What deciduous trees are most injurious and what least so to undercover 1 X. — Mention twelve flowering shrubs other than Syringas suitable for planting in a large town, confining the answer to species, and not giving varieties. XI. — Mention twelve flowering trees and shrubs with blue, purple, or violet flowers. XII. — Write down in order, according to the safety with which they would bear removal, the following three sets of plants, assuming them to have been an equally long time undisturbed : (1) Oaks, Birch, Horse Chestnut, and Lime ; (2) Cupressus law- soniana, Pinus austriaca, .Juniperus, Quercus Ilex ; (3) Cotoneaster niicro- phylla, Laurustinus, Aucuba, and Holly. XII r. — If a specimen conifer were to lose the leader, through wind or other accident, how would you set about to repair the damage 1 Answers should be sent to the Editor of The Garden, .3, Southampton Street, Strand, London, and marked " Competition." These will be forwarded to Mr. Gibbs. The com- petition remains open until the end of the month. We think so hir/hly of the suggestion made by Mr. Vicary Gibbs, and the great practical value of the questions he has framed, that we have decided to add Two Guineas to the first prize, to give a second prize of Two Guineas, a third of One Guinea, and a fourth of Half -a- Guinea, and to institute monthly competitions dealing -with various other phases of gardening. With the first issue of each month toe shall offer similar prizes to those above; the scheme of questions is especially intended for young gardeners. The questions ivill be selected so that the answers, which will be published in The Garden, may be of real value to all garden lovers. The winning replies, it is safe to assume, will contain the result of many years' experience, pilainly put in a few words, and they cannot fail to impiart much useftd in- formation to all 7'eaders o/The Garden. We shall make a pioint of keeping the questions seasonable, so that the replies tvill be ]Mrticu- larly helpful at the moment. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 17. — Meeting of the Sevenoaks and the Redhill and R,eigate Gardeners' Societies. January 19. — Annual meeting and Election of Pensioners of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution, Mr. E. Sherwood in the chair. January 24. — Royal Horticultural Society's meeting. January 27. — Meeting of the Lee and Blackheath Gardeners' Society. January 31. — Meeting of the Redhill, Reigate, and District Gardening Society. February 1. — ShefiBeld Horticultural Society's meeting. February 10. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund Annual Meeting. A Coloured Plate.— Next week a coloured plate will be given of Sweet Pea Gladys Unwin, from a drawing by Miss Gertrude Hamilton. An article on Sweet Peas will accompany the illustration. Royal Horticultural Society.— At the general meeting held on the 3rd iust. forbv-two new Fellows were elected, including Miss Violet Fellowes, the Rev. Canon Fowler, Major E. W. Gleadow, Lieutenant-Colonel Hadaway, Major .John Howard (Agent-General for Nova Scotia), Colonel the Hon. H. Legge, and Captain J. G. Thorold ; and it was announced that the fresh elections during the past year had amounted to 1,383. It is hoped that a special effort will be made by the Fellows and all others interested in the society's welfare still further to increase the roll of Fellows of the society, the privileges of which are now so numerous and valuable. The council have already arranged for twenty-five more exhibitions being held, most of them in the new hall. They will include, in addition to a three days' show in the Temple Gardens, a Colonial fruit and vegetable show in March, a home-grown vegetable and British fruit shows in September and October respectively, and special Uower shows held in conjunction with the National Rose, Auricula, Tulip, Carnation, and Sweet Pea Societies. The next show will be held on Tuesday, the 24th inst., and the annual general meeting of the society will be held on February 14, at 3 p.m., on which day there will also be an exhibition of flowers, fruit, and plants. A valuable bog- plant.— Cham^elirium carolinianum came from America a few years ago, but is not in general cultivation. It may be likened to a miniature Eremurus, having thickened white roots, broad and prostrate leaves in rosettes as in the Dandelion, from which arise in May and June dainty spikes of white, cream, or pale yellow flowers about 1 foot high. The flowers are small and closely packed on the spike as in Eucomis, but the top invariably keels over as the spikes advance, and then the resem- blance to Eremurus is complete. It is closely allied to the Veratrums, and my own experience of the plant leads me to recommend it for bog or marsh planting The white-flowered form is the better plant, but it is rare in collected specimens. Now that the world is being ransacked for hardy bog and marsh plants of horticultural merit the claims of this pretty Chamielirium should not be overlooked. It is not ditficult to grow, and it flowers freely when established. — G. B. M. The \Vinter Green (Pyrola rotundifolia). — There are but few of the so-called Winter Greens that one could recommend as good garden plants, but the larger Winter Green (P. rotundifolia) is so easily managed that many would welcome a goodly "turf" of its pretty evergreen, Shortia-like foliage all the year round, while in early spring the dainty racemes of bell-shaped white flowers, resembling Lily of the Valley, are charming in their leafy setting. It is a plant one could freely use in association with Cypripedium in the shady peat-bog, or in any cool and sheltered corner where leaf-soil and moisture congregate, the foliage remaining perfect all the year round. It has a wide distribution over the Northern Hemisphere, but is rarely put to good and efl'ective use in water gardening, for which it seems peculiarly adapted. — G. B. M. A beautiful winter flower.- At the exhibition held by the Royal Horticultural Society in their hall, Vincent Square, West- minster, on the 2nd inst., there was nothing more beautiful than tthe group of Euphorbia jacquini:e- flora shown by Mr. E. Beckett, gardener to Lord Aldenham, Elstree, Herts. 'The long, slender, gracefully drooping shoots were just wreaths of orange-red bracts with a border of dark green leaves on either side. Nothing brighter or more delightful for room decoration on a dull winter day could be imagined. This is a very old plant, but I have never seen it so finely grown and effectively grouped as on this occasion. The centre of each shoot was a mass of the small brilliantly-coloured bracts, and the deep green leaves formed an admirable setting. On many of the plants there were bracts along an uninterrupted length of 2 feet. The chief essential to the successful culture of this plant is to get one long vigorous shoot, and to have it thoroughly matured. Only by doing this is it possible to have an abundance of bracts and healthy leaves — rivulets of orange- red between banks of rich greenery. In The Garden last week Mr. Beckett gave full cultural directions. — Y. Z. Pear "Winter W^illiams'.— Everyone at some time or another must have tasted the Pear properly called Williams' Bon Chretien, and popu- larly named Williams', and appreciated its melting flesh and pleasing flavour on a warm day in late summer or early autumn, for it is then the most popular market Pear. A novelty in the shape of a Pear, called Winter Williams', was shown at the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting on the 2nd inst. by Messrs. James Veilchand Sons. Its flavour is exactly like the earlier Williams', none of the sweetness or juiciness appears to have been lost. In appearance, however, the new fruit is different, owing to its hybrid production. It is the result of a cross between Williams' Bon Chretien and the well known late Pear Glou Morceau. In shape it resembles the latter a good January 14, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 19 deal ; but the skin is yellow, while that of Glou Moroeau never beoomeg a%oocl yellow, even when ripe. The name of this new Pear will doubtless ensure its being sought after, and time will prove whether or not it is as valuable a late sort as its near relative is an early one. — Y. Z. Planting' fruit trees,— At a time when fruit trees are being planted it may not be amiss to call attention to a method that has recently been practised in some parts of Germany with, it is said, conspicuous success. Oa strong clay soil it is known that the roots of trees often suffer through lack of air, and this difficulty may be largely avoided by interstratifying the soil beneath the roots with layers of hedge brushings or similar material. A hole 2 feet to 3 feet deep, and twice this in width, is first made, in the bottom of which some 6 inches of brushings are placed. On this a layer of soil of similar depth is deposited, then another layer of brushings, and, finally, the tree is set in and secured in the usual way. Trees so treated are said to make very vigorous growth, and to have greit power of resisting drought and other prejudicial influences. British Gardeners' Association.— Mr. H. A. Pettigrew writes from St. Fagans, Cardiff: "I have been asked b}' the executive of the British Gardeners' Association to call together a meeting of the gardeners of this neighbourhood, to discuss the advisability of organising a branch of the association in the Cardift' district. I have accordingly arranged for a meeting to be held on Monday next, at 7.30 p.m., in the Grand Jury Room, Town Hall, when Mr. R. Hooper Pearson (Sub-Editor, Gardeners' Chronicle), one of the members of the executive, with other local gardeners, will address the meeting. S. Treseder, Esq., F.R. H.S , has kindly consented to take the chair on this occasion. As it is desirable to have this matter thoroughly discussed and understood, it is hoped that all interested will make an effort to attend." The Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution. — The annual friendly supper will take place after the annual meeting and election, on Thursday, the 19th inst. , at the Covent Garden Hotel (adjoining Covent Garden Market), South- ampton Street, Strand. The chair will be taken at 6 p.m. by Mr. Edward Sherwood (of Hurst and Son). " Protection of Native Plants."— A lecture with this title was read by Mr. Robert Tracy Jackson before the Massachusetts Horticul- tural Society. Mr. Jackson says : " Plants are much reduced in number by the thoughtless picking in unreasonable quantities and the too often unnecessary pulling up by the roots, when the upper part, or flower, is really the only portion desired. Frequently the interest seems to be to gather as many as possible, and the fact of rarity or exceptional beauty may act as a spur to induce the gathering of all that can be found. The principle that should be urged is to gather in moderation ; always to cut the stem, not tear it off; never to pull up the root unless for trans- planting ; and, if there is reason to believe that the plant is rare, to leave it to increase its kind by seed and root, that in the future others may enjoy its presence." Veronica Traversi.— I think the dimen- sions of one of my two large plants (I have many others from seeds and cuttings) may interest your readers — height, 8J feet ; circumference, 36 feet. No frost — and we have it severe at times — has ever injured a leaf of it, while most of the other varie- ties either are punished or killed in this garden. — J. H. PoE, Siverston, Nenagh. A beautiful white Heath (Erica gracilis nivalis).— This pretty Heath, which was given an award of merit by the Royal Horti- cultural Society in October of 1903, is a form of the well-known Erica gracilis, from which it differs in the colour of the blossoms, those of the new variety being almost white. As Erica gracilis itself is such a popular autumn and early winter- flowering Heath, it is more than probable that the new comer will be equally appreciated, particu- larly if the slight suspicion of colour will tone down, as it probably will under cultivation. The white variety of Erica hyemalis is now an estab- lished favourite, and there is no reason to doubt that of Erica gracilis nivalis the same will be said in a few years. — T. A white AVinter Heath.— Some forty years ago Cape Heaths were in the zenith of their popularity. lu the nursery where I served my apprenticeship about 1.50 kinds were in cultivation, and all of them were more or less grown in private gardens. Most of these species aud varieties have dropped out of general cultivation, only a few being really popular nowadays. The graceful growth and quiet beauty of E. hyemalis render it very useful for general decorative purposes — as a fact, we have nothing like it among winter-blooming plants. Half a century ago the Heath was largely grown for the London markets. It is even more extensively grown at the present time. Some few years ago the variety alba declared itself, and has deservedly become very popular. The Winter Heath is so easily grown that anyone with a fair knowledge of plant culture may take it in hand. After blooming it should be cut back, and when new growths are pushing repot, using really good peat. Keep rather close for a time, and later on get the plants into the open air until the middle of September. — J. Cornhill. Autumn tints in Lancashire.- In Lancaster we think that the autumn tints have been brighter than we have seen them locally since 1887, in which we agree with " T. A.", Cirencester. — K. A. Robinson, East Road, Lancaster. Rainfall in 1904.— The following is a report of the rainfall in The Gardens, Hampton Manor, Warwickshire, during 1904 : Month. January . . , February . March April May -Tune July August .. , September October . . . November , December . No. o.f Days on ivhich Rain fell. 21 22 17 13 17 0 11 14 9 13 11 15 Total for Month. Inches. 2-80 418 163 102 1-99 0-62 2-54 2-26 1-lS 1 04 1-47 1-94 Total for the year 171 22-67 This was 1050 inches less than last year. Highest temperature in shade, August 3, SG'' ; in sun-heat, August 3, 132". Lowest, November 23, 7°. — Neil Sinclair. Colour outdoors in winter.— When flowers are things of the past and leaves are few the garden usually presents a dismal appearance, although there is no reason why this should be so. There is beauty in berried plants, in coloured stems, and even in evergreens. With a judicious selection of these the garden in midwinter would be far brighter and more attractive than it often ia. To take the commonest of all berried plants, Crataegus Pyracantha, or Pyracantha, as it is familiarly known, the berries of orange aud red nestling among the small, dark green leaves, will form a delightful bit of colour on house or garden wall from late autumn until early spring. Among the red-berried Cotoneasters there are several valuable plants for garden decoration at this time of year. Two of the best are C. Simondsii, which makes a big bush, and bears large dark red berries in quantity, and C. horizontalis. This is of spread- ing, almost creeping habit, with numerous branch- lets arranged horizontally and forming a fan-like growth. Upon these the small bright red berries are produced profusely. With the winter sun lighting them up they have a delightful eflect. The Pernett3-as, perhaps the most beautiful of all hardy-berried plants, too, are sadly neglected. What can be more attractive than a bed or a group? The colour of the berries varies from purple through shades of red and pink to white. The Mountain Ash has a characteristic brightness that should find a place for it in every garden where winter beautj' is sought after. Among plants with coloured stems the Willows and the Dogwoods deserve to be widely planted. Masses of them brighten the landscape wonderfully at this time of year, and if they are planted by the waterside so that their reflection shows they have an added beauty. The Moonlight Bramble, with stems that look just as though they were whitewashed, and on a moonlight night are weird and ghostlike, makes a most distinct feature. — Y. Z. Mr. David Walker, Kilmarnock.— Mr. Uavid Walker, the head-master of Bentinck School, Kilmarnock, who is well known as a very successful exhibitor of Carnations at the English shows, and is one of the best Scottish cultivators of the show Carnation and Picotee, was appointed a short time ago by the School Board of Kilmar- nock to be head-master of a new school then in course of erection and called the Loauhead School. Mr. Walker, being about to enter upon his duties there, the staff and pupils of Bentinck School resolved to make Mr. Walker a present in token of the high esteem in which they held him. On the evening of the 22nd ult. Mr. and Mrs. Walker entertained the staff, and the opportunity was taken of presenting Mr. Walker with a handsome gold watch. The presentation was made by Mr. James Richmond. The following inscription is on the watch : " Presented to David Walker, Esq., Head-master Bentinck School, by the teachers and pupils, on his promotion to Loanhead School." Conference on early - flowering- Chrysanthemums. —Through the executive committee of thelNational Chrysanthemum Society it was proposed at their last meeting to hold a conference this year on the occasion of the October show at the Crystal Palace. A sub-committee was appointed, and they are already considering on what lines the conference shall proceed. There is need for a supreme eiibrt of this kind, as there ia still so much to learn about these charming autumn- flowering plants. Eighteen yeara ago little was heard of really good Japanese sorts ; but the early varieties have greatly increased. Although cata- logued aorta to-day may be thought to embrace all that is required this ia not so. Each season sees the acquisition of quite a number of first-class novelties, and they have the effect of relegating to the rubbiah heap many old and one time much- cherished sorts. This is inevitable in the march of progress that has been going on for some time, and the one cheering fact in connexion with the change is that the seedlings of English raisers are eclipsing those of Continental origin. The past season, however, has given us many beautiful novelties of French introduction, and for these we should be grateful. The Chrysanthemum as a garden plant is what ia most to be desired, and in demonstrating its undoubted value in this direction the conference should render timely service. Note on Beg-onia Gloire de Lorraine.- Mr. E. Lloyd Edwards aenda a photograph of this beautiful Begonia, showing a very tine plant, but, unfortunately, it was not suitable for reproduction. With it was the following note : " The fine plant shown in the photograph was grown by Mr. Gilsham, gardener to Captain Tottenham, R.N. , Lythouse, Torquay. He is par- ticularly successful in the culture of this beautiful Begonia. Thia plant took first prize at one of the fortnightly meetings of the District Gardeners' Association in October. It was then one year and nine months old, having been struck from a leaf in January last year. It measured 2 feet 6 inches in height and also in width, and was shown in an 8-inch pot. It was a mass of bloom, and had never been pinched back." Primrose Miss Massey.— The raiser of this brilliant-coloured Primrose is Mr. Herbert Massey. It came among some seedlings, and Mr. Maaaey, atruck by its colour, propagated it, and in recent years he has sent very large numbers of this variety to places at home and abroad. It is not nearly so free of bloom as some other single Primroses of thia colour, and it betrays a tendency to throw up flower-scapes bearing twin blooms. It is seen at its best when grown under glass, then it produces ample foliage aud brilliant blosaoma. I have found aome difficulty in cultivating it with success in the open near London, and I have tried it in heavy and light soils. One peculiarity of this variety is that it rarely produces seeds. Mr. Massey states that it does not produce any seeds in Cheshire. — R. D. 20 THE GARDEN, [January 14, 1905. THE FERN GARDEN. NEW FERNS. DURING the year 1904 the ouniber of new Ferns recognised by the floral I committee of the Royal Horticul- f tural Society was somewhat limited, and there was no really startling novelty among them. The following received either a first-class certificate or an award of merit. Pleris HUH. — A fine bold-growing Pteris, some- what suggesting the Australian Pteris umbrosa, though the new comer is said to hail from Brazil. The fronds are particularly thick in texture, and of a deep bronzy green tint. They are unusually glossy on the upper surface. From its stately appearance it is undoubtedly^ destined to become popular for decorative purposes when better known. Award of merit, February 23. Cyrtomium Bntterfieldi. — Apparently a form of the Japanese Cyrtomium falcatum (Aspidium falcatum), a well known cool house, or in favoured spots, hardy Fern. It is remarkable for the frilled margins of the pinna;, particularly towards the points. Award of merit, February 23. Lomaria Mayii. — Under this name a fine seed- ling form of Lomaria ciliata was given a first-class certificate on May 3. It is a particularly bold- growing Fern, that bids fair to make a much larger specimen than the t3'pical L. ciliata. From that well-known kind it also differs in its broader and longer pinn« and more graceful appearance. The colour is a pleasing rich green. Pterin cretica capitatum. — There are now so many created varieties of Pteris cretica and P. serrulata, as well as the numerous intermediate forms, as scarcely to leave room for another. This one is, however, decidedly pretty. It is of rather erect growth, and each division of the fronds is terminated by a large cockscomb-like crest. When shown by Mr. H. B. May of Edmonton on May 17 it received an award of merit. P. Binoti. — Though said to have been imported from Brazil, this may be a seedling form of P. (Doryopteris) palmata, which in some respects it resembles, though in others the singular P. ludens is suggested, particularly in the diSerence between the fertile and sterile fronds. The latter, which are at the base of the plant, are almost triangular, in some cases with slight basal lobes, while the fertile ones which overtop the others are twice divided. The colour is a deep shining green. This was the onl)- Fern to receive an award by the committee at the Temple show. Platycerium alcicorne Mayi. — The only occasion of a Platycerium being recognised by the Ro}-al Horticultural Society was when P. Veitchi was given a first-class certificate eight years ago. On November 29 last P. alcicorne Mayi received an award of merit. As suggested by the varietal name, it was raised by Mr. IJ. B. May of Edmonton, so celebrated as a successful cultivator of Ferns in general. It is a seedling from P. alcicorne majus, but is altogether a more graceful plant, owing to its drooping tendency and the longer divisions of the fronds. By the lover of these quaint but charming Ferns this will no doubt be much sought after. T. THE LILIES. (C ontinued from 2'"^ 9^ •^•) CIUM PARDALINUM VAR. PUBERULUM (Hort.) is a small- flowered form of tall growth, with the leavesaggregated into whorles and very pallid ; the flowers are 3 inches across, and the refle.xed petals are coloured pale buff, the extreme tips alone coloured pale red. Not common in cultivation. Flowers in July. A connecting link between minor and pardalinum. There are numerous forms of pardalinum in cultivation in addition to the foregoing, but the majority of those we have examined may be referred to one or other of the forms described. It varies considerably as a wilding, and still more from seeds, whilst soils exercise a remarkable influence in the colouring of this Lily. American florists appear to have forms quite unknown in this country. These Panther Lilies constitute a very important group of easily grown garden plants that one could recommend for more or less informal planting by waterside. Many of them occur as wildings in pasture and cultivated fields. All are found in damp, low-lying situations. This group can be recommended for extended garden use. Their easy culture, freedom of growth, and love for moist soils suggest that the best places for them are the banks of waterways, the cool plant border, the marsh or bog garden, and the type plant succeeds admirably amid grasses semi-naturalised in the open clearings of woods where the soil is damp and rich in leafy deposits. It thrives in ordinary loam, but prefers a liberal admixture of peat and leaf-soil in the early stages, mainly to act as a sponge for the retention of moisture. The forms Michauxi californicum and angusti- folium are better grown in the bog garden, for these inhabit marshy places, and will grow also under shade. They have no stem-roots of importance, but the roots issue from all surfaces, and these will travel anywhere to obtain moisture. The open countrj' also seems necessary for these forms. They are the first plants in a town garden to show the influence of smoke and sulphur in the atmosphere. We have grown L. pardalinum well in clay soils, and we think this is the better plant of the whole group for general purposes. They can be well groAvn in pots provided they are supplied with plenty of water in the growing season and furnished with roomy receptacles. They cannot be forced, as the stems attenuate and bend over with the weight of flowers. There are many places in most gardens where the Panther Lily and one or other of its forms will grow well. They are an excellent type of Lily— graceful in growth, and the beautiful flowers, borne on long foot-stalks, are admired by every one. (To be continued.) C H R Y S A NTH E M U M S. YELLOW JAPANESE VARIETIES. THE season that has recently come to a close is not remarkable for the large number of Japanese novelties of a yellow colour that have merited award. Though the number of really good sorts is perhaps small in comparison with other years, their quality is undoubtedly good. First-class yellow Japanese varieties are always a telling factor in scoring, no matter whether the blooms be exhibited on the orthodox green-painted boards or by the increasingly popular method of displaying them in vases. The varieties that have come under my own obser- vation during the past season which call for special notice are the following : Mrs. Chan. Jjavis.— An English-raised seedling of great promise, and the result of a cross between Japanese varieties Duchess of Sutherland and J. R. Upton. In many respects the new sort much resembles the former both in form and colour. The petals are long, broad, drooping, and curling, building a lovely bloom of high quality ; the colour, rich shade of orange yellow, and most effective. First-class certificate. National Chry- santhemum Society. Leiyh Park Rival. — Another orange yellow .Japanese bloom, shaded bronze from buds secured later than most others, the petals long and drooping, building a bloom both broad and deep. First-class certificate. National Chrysanthemum Society. Mm. Eric Croasiey. — An English-raised seedling of much promise. As a# exhibition variety it will take a high place. The petals are long and stout, and of medium width, building a bloom quite S inches deep and of equal breadth, the colour, soft canary yellow, some say pale yellow. The blooms open well from a natural break and first crown bud selection. An improved J. R. Upton. Mrs. Frank: Penn.~LiU\e is known of this variety. Some blooms were submitted to the National Chrysanthemum Society's floral committee early in November last, and a wish was expressed to see the variety again. It is a glorious rich yellow flower, with fairly broad petals of erect character, building a reflexed bloom of good quality. Lady C'urzon. — This flower is not one of the largest in size, yet quite large enough for exhibition. The petals are long and drooping, building a bloom of graceful form. A most effective flower of rich canary yellow colour, and much admired. Model. — As exhibited at the Crystal Palace show in November last, this novelty has much that is interesting and promising. The petals of medium width, pleasingly waved and curled, building a bloom of splendid proportions. Colour rich buttery yellow, tinted bronze in some instances. Beauty of Leigh. — This fine variety was distri- buted last spring, and has been well exhibited in. several instances during the past season. The petals are long and of medium width, incurving at the tips, building a large flower of even form. Colour rich deep yellow. The plant is very tall, but is of easy culture. Chrysa»thimi.9te Montigny. — One of the very best- of M. E. Calvat's introductions of last spring. Several of the trade have exhibited this fine novelty in good form, and exhibitors of high standing have found the blooms very serviceable. Colour pale straw yellow, slightly flushed red,, from a late bud selection. In some instances the- blooms have developed quite a canary yellow colour. Petals broad, fluted, and incurving. Good habit. Roi d'ltalie. — Another of M. Calvat's novelties. This is a very fine Japanese flower of promise,, with petals of incurved Japanese form. Colour deep canary yellow, with a deeper coloured reverse. A bloom of deep build and in capital form at the- Crystal Palace show in November last. Yellow Mine. Nagtlmacker.i. — Little notice appears- to have been taken of this yellow sport from the white Mme. Nagelmackers. The splendid exhi- bition quality of the parent variety, as seen at the Crystal Palace in November, 1903, should ensure much popularity for the sport. Souvenir de Mme. Buron. — This is a canary yellow sport from Miss Elsie Fulton (sj'n. Princess Alice de Monaco). So well known is the parent variety for its beauty and exquisite form that the mentiort of a sport of the colour herein described is sufficient to ensure for the new sort extended culture. Mrs. W. Knox. — An Australian variety that has much to commend it. The petals are long, narrow, and drooping, building a large, graceful flower, of good quality and of considerable promise for exhi- bition. Colour rather deep 3'ellow, sometimes tinted bronze on a late bud selection. Mrs. M. J. Dairy. — A large and and attractive flower of Antipodean origin, petals long and curled, pleasingly drooping. Colour rich clear yellow. Mary West. — This is not quite so new as some of the other sorts in this list. It is a large, massive flower of good quality. Colour in the early part of the season, a good yellow ; later flowers are shaded reddish bronze. Mrs. W. Duckham — A refined Japanese flower, with narrow, twisted, and curled petals, building a bloom that some regard as similar, in many respects, to Miss Nellie Pockett. Colour golden yellow, not infrequently flushed red. D. B- Crank. ARRANGING FLOWERS AND FRUIT. (Continued from page 9.) Much more should be done in the way of well- disposed groups of fruit on our dinner-tables. In the late summer, when there are Melons, Grapes, Pears, Figs, Peaches, and Plums, it is desirable to January 14, 1903.] THE GARDEN. 21 arrange some of these on a large dish of silver, brass, pewter, or china. Fruit so arranged becomes a delightful picture, even more pleasant to look at in the middle of a dinner-table than a bowl of flowers. The amount of fruit that would fill four ordinary dessert dishes seems to increase in volume when so arranged ; it gains greatly in beauty, and gives ofif a deliehtful scent. If anything brighter than ordinarj' Vine leaves are wanted to complete the dressing, those of Virginia Creeper are excellent. Vine leaves should be chosen rather small and pale in colour ; as the season advances some may be found out of doors on some of the Sweetwater Grapes that are charmingly streaked and mottled with golden yellow ; and coloured Blackberry leaves — so Vine-like in form — may be found in hedge and thicket. G. Jekyll. FLOWERS OF MYSTERY. WHAT an irresistible charm attaches to flowers that bloom while others sleep ! They may have no striking beauty, no sweet fragrance, happy memories may not cluster round them, yet by their mystery they attract us, by their loneliness they appeal to us. We wonder why, like other flowers, they do not bud with lengthening days in spring, blossom beneath the summer sun, fade with autumn's glorious tints, and take their long rest amid winter's frost and snow. They live a life apart, flowering on a cheerless earth, with leafless trees for shelter ; their breath is chill December's blast. They are outcasts from Flora's world, frail symbols of passive resistance against a relentless destiny that gives them snow for rain, condemns them to eternal loneliness — life among the sleeping, sleep among the living. They must open on naked shoots, they may not know the sweet companionshipof leafy twigs, never feel a sunbeam's kiss or taste one drop of summer's dew. Howling winds proclaim their birth, they fade to death at dawn of spring, and June's soft breezes chant their burial song. The same cold hand that drives most flowers to death brings these to life. What mystic spell compels this magic? The dread touch that sends others shivering to their sleep, to the warm depths of mother earth or the safe shelter of fast-closed bud, until spring's gentle showers and strengthening sun shall bid them wake again, makes barren shoots bright wands of winter blossoms, the ground a carpet of their posies. It cannot be from choice that such frail gems of Nature blow with cruel frost, with treacherous snow that glides to the ground in softest fall, hiding black deceit beneath its whiteness and death within its seeming purity. In a warm embrace the flowers are lulled to wakeless sleep — smothered by the stifling mantle of fallen flakes. Can it be that once, in ages long gone by, these lonely ones transgressed the law of plants and flowers and compassed their life's tragedy — brought forth the grim decree that they must bud and blow in solitude ? Dark, indeed, must have been the wrong to bring a sentence so severe. It is a cruel fate that sends the fragile- fashioned Christmas Rose to lift its flowers through frozen ground, that makes the Jasmine open on leafless shoots and fade to oblivion at the glad New Year. The Winter Sweet must waste its fragrance on coldest air, and yellow cups of Aconite peep from green frills in vain for one sunray, while the Thorn of Glastonbury holds high its flowery branches and hurls defiance at earth's bare face and heaven's chill skies. But some suggest that winter flowers are pity's messengers, sent from that brighter world where flowers and leaves abound, to lead a life of loneli- ness, to bring us cheer. This is a mystery we cannotfathom, a veil we may not lift. But whether as aliens, outcasts from a pleasanter world, where ieavesgrowgreen in springand die content at winter's first dread touch, or as symbols of a deep, wide love that takes no thought of self, we cherish these frail blooms of mystery, we hail them with delight, watch each unfolding bud and opening petal. We shower upon them such full love and joyous grati- tude, bid such hearty welcome and take such sad farewell as must make their sweetest memories glad regrets. H. H. T. THE FLOWER GARDEN. A NEW HARDY FLOWER COLOURING. OF BLUE pieces 1 inch to 2 inches in length and inserted in pots or pans of very sandy soil. In a few weeks growth will appear, and the little plants may be grown on until ready for planting out. In open spaces in the wild garden this Anchusa produces a beautiful picture when in full flower, and a group of plants on a sloping lawn are also most effective. For indoor decoration the flower sprays are very valuable, and when cut at a length of 4 feet or so form delightful arrangements in tall vases. S. W. FiTZHEKBERT. UNEQUALLEI ceous border is this splendid intro- STRIPED AND OTHER AURICULAS, duction, being, indeed, the finest of , In the early days of Auriculas, long ago, before all the larger blue-flowered perennial . —or, at any rate, at the time when it was beginning plants. This, in the face of the ! to form itself, by the guidance of cultivators, into handsome family of the Larkspurs I the sections in which it appears to-day— striped, or Delphiniums, with its countless fine named | flaked, and parti-coloured Auriculas, in fantastic varieties, may appear a rash statement, but anyone shapes, were cultivated, and probably some of who has seen this Alkanet at its best will admit j them were not without attractions. In the process that it possesses attractive qualities of the very | of developing the edged and self character there is highest order. It is so far superior to the type that : no doubt many flowers were cast aside which, it might well pass for a distinct species, but the 1 though pretty and winsome, were outside the fact that it does not come true from seed, as far as ' classes. Some of these, of modern development, my experience goes, and that the seedlings have j now appear on the exhibition tables of the National a tendency to produce flowers as small, or nearly i Auricula Society under the comprehensive name as small as, those of the common type, tend to | of " Fancies," but so far they are grown by very prove that this is its parent. The flowers of the j few indeed ; and yet they are not without claims type are so small that it is not a sufficiently effec- ' to beauty and refinement. A flower with a golden tive plant for the herbaceous border, but the j tube, the paste correct, but in the place of the dark blossoms of the Dropmore variety are nearly | body colour a zone of pure gold, with a narrow IJ inches across, and are borne in such profusion i emerald green edge, might win more admirers than that the whole plant becomes a sheet of deepest blue. A vigorous specimen will attain a height of 6 feet or 7 feet, with a diameter nearly as great, and if not shut in and shaded by other plants a specimen will be, from the ground level to the topmost shoot, a cloud of blue that invariably attracts universal admiration. Were its flowers short- lived, its beauty is so great that it would be welcomed in the border, but it has the additional merit of lasting in bloom for a very lengthened period. My plants com- menced to flower the last week of May, and at the end of July still held sufficient blossom to be attractive. When the shoots that had flowered were cut off the plants threw up side shoots tha.t bloomed in the autumn. Curiously enough the Dropmore variety has not proved as hardy as the type. In the south-west the type never dies in the winter, though totally unprotected, but I know many cases where the Dropmore variety has failed to appear again in the spring after dying down. As I have already mentioned, seedlings of this variety which have come under my notice have been very inferior to their parent. Pro- pagation must therefore necessarily be eflfected in some other manner, and root cuttings have been proved a successful method. The plant must be lifted in the winter THE new Italian alkanet (anchosa italica, dropmore VARiETi- and the roots cut into (This beauUfulbim Uower originntedin the gardens at Dropmore, MaiMnhead.) 22 THE GARDEN. [January 14, 1905. the most correct green edged which can be staged. A striped flower, a descendant of some grown two centuries ago, is rarely, if ever, seen among the " Fancies." There can be found one in some cata- logues, but it is a weakly grower, having small striped flowers of Cowslip shape, the ground colour yellow, with pencillings of brewnish red. Some- times the flowers will come self coloured — all red or all yellow. A few years ago a beautiful striped Auricula sported in the collection of the Rsv. F. D Horner from a red self named Firefly, which I think has not yet been distributed. I saw a truss of this at the Birmingham Auricula show in 1900, and there could be seen pips of fine form and handsomel}' striped with red and gold. The striped flowers were equally and decidedly striped. It is certainly very lovely in spring, though two or three of the flowers were all bright yellow ; one was buif coloured, but none of the reversions went back to the red type Firefly. This brilliant self is like some other fine Auriculas, chary of producing oft'sets, while to use Jlr. Horner's remark, "the beautiful striped sport is desperately slow," meaning that it is very spare of throwing up ofl'sets. One can quite under- stand that Mr. Horner would be unwilling to part with this fine striped form in case it should revert to the original self form, thoucjh it is certain many would like to obtain it. Sportiveness is not of frequent occurrence in the cultivated Auricula, and it is probable red selfs like Firefly would be more likely to develop sportiveness than any other. It can be observed that, on the occasions of holding the exhibition of the National Auricula Society, some one is found regretting that the Auricula cultivators do not betray a tendency to break away into other lines. I can point to the fancy varieties as affording material such persons who turn aside from the edged and self flowers might cultivate. There are several beautiful yellow self Auriculas worthy of attention, while the alpine type is pregnant with variation and to an almost interminable degree. Then there are such double varieties as may be found in cultivation — not many, it is true, but some — and these are certainly inter- esting forms. There is no necessity for the culti- vator of the fine show flowers to abandon his pets, while there is ample material outside them for those who wish for greater variety to experiment with. R. Dean. THE ROSE GARDEN. M within a foot of the old wood. This should be done about May or early June, for in cold houses, which I have principally in mind, theblossoming time will be about May. By well sj'ringing the plants and taking advantage of sun-heat new growths are quickly started. Select three or four of the best and rub off any small shoots. By September fine long rods will be secured. A few inches should be cut off extreme ends in October to assist in ripening the growths, and plenty of air afforded. But it will be said there is no old wood in the plants the first year. This is quite true. The right thing to do in this case is to cut the plants down about half their length and spread the growths out almost horizontally, then select the four best new shoots that will break out. If the plant ha? two long growths when bought, each of these should carry two new ones, taking care to rub off others as they appear. Having formed this basis the future treatment will be as described. Canker is the great enemy of this Rose, and for this disease there is no known remed}'. Much may be done to avoid this by judiciously thinning the flower-buds. It is better to allow the plant to perfect two or three dozen blooms than a hundred. Although I have mentioned the long plants usually sold, I am a strong advocate for short standard plants ; they somehow have more root power. It is generally admitted by all who grow Tea Roses that the best results are obtained from the Hedge Briar, and this glorious Rose is no exception to the rule. FAILURES WITH MARECHAL NIEL. [ARECHAL NIEL is my favourite R )8e, and yet I cannot succeed in growing it." This is frequently said to me by persons who do not employ a regular gardener, and I am not surprised that they cannot grow it. Excellent plants are bought, with long well- ripened 10 feet to 12 feet long shoots, and perhaps all goes well the first season, because the plants can hardly help doing well if they are nourished. Where failures come in is in the want of forethought. As soon as the blossoms are over it is necessary that new growths be made for next year's crop. This cannot be done satisfactorily unless the roots are enabled to grow freely in a well -prepared border or in good compost in a large pot or tub. The initial failure lies in improper planting or potti ng. The mass of soil and roots should not only be thoroughly soaked with water, but the little roots should be released with a pointed stick. Then the border or pots must be well drained and a good depth of suitable soil provided. Bone-meal should be freely used with the loam, both in the border as well as in the pots or tubs. I much prefer a border for this Rose, and under glass if possible, although this is not absolutely essential. Let it be made as carefully as (or a Vine. For one plant a hole .3 feet long and wide and the same depth would suffice. Take out the old soil and add new. Some- times the old soil is good enough, but it wants breaking up. A little new turfy loam will always repay anyone who adds this to their borders. Now as to treatment after flowering. Encourage new growth by cutting back the flowering wood to TRANSPLANTING ROSES. Even professional gardeners do not sufficiently realise the need of transplanting their Roses. In some of the best Rose gardens in the country triennial transplanting is adopted with marked success. When a standard Rose, for instance, appears dwindling away, just lift it carefully, covering the roots temporarily with soil, then proceed to dig the ground at least 2 feet deep, adding bone-meal and well-rotted manure to the soil. Trim the roots of the tree, remove any buds which would make suckers, and then replant. First take out a hole 1 foot square and 6 inches deep. Make the stake firm in the ground and tie the standard to it. Then put in the hole a shovelful of prepared compost consisting of loam, leaf soil, and burnt garden refuse in equal parts. Work this well among the roots, these latter being carefully spread out, then fill up the hole with the ordinary soil. Tread the soil firmly about the roots, and cover the surface with about half an inch of well- rotted manure. If the soil sinks below the level this should be made good by adding a little more soil, but as a rule try and keep the roots of the plants near the surface. Many thousands of Roses are ruined by deep planting. The same care in replanting applies to bush and pillar plants. Climbers on arches should not be transplanted, but the soil may be now and then renewed without much disturbance to their roots. When trans- planting beds of Tea Roses work in some gritty material, and always keep the beds 3 inches or 4 inches higher than the level. base. Some good blooms will be produced on this shoot, and several more growths will spring up during the summer. In November of each year cut away the growths that have been pegged and cover the ground with manure, digging this in in Februar}'. Select three or four of the stoutest growths and peg down in March, and cut all others away. Repeat this each year. A splendid show of bloom will be annualh' produced, and the quality, too, will be good, Many shy blooming Roses may be thus compelled to flower. A few good ones for the purpose are Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. John Laing, Ulrich Brunner, Griiss an Teplitz, Mme. Abel Chatenay, M. Desir, Franc lis Crousse, Clio, John Ruskin, Ards Pdlar, Charles Lefebvre, Dr. Andry, Dake of Edinburgh, Caroline Testout, Frangois Michelon, Prince C. de Rohan, John Hopper, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, Laurette MesKimv, Alisler Stella Gray, and W. A. Richardson. P. PEGGING DOWN ROSES. Visitors to Kew Gardens last year ojuld have seen a splendid bed of Clio, that lovely Hybrid Per- petual, just one mass of bloom. It was an illustration of what may be done by pegging down Pvoses. It takes about three years before the best effect is produced, but it is worth trying. The soil must be trenched and well manured, mixing the manure with the soil as trenching proceeds. Good drainage is very essential. The best plants to use are those on their own roots. Plant the bushes about 3 feet apart each way. At the end of March cut down the plants to within three buds of the base. A few blooius will be obtained the first year. The following February select the best shoot of each plant and cut all the others back hard. Of the one selected remove about one-third of its length. Procure some stout pegs made from Pea sticks. The shoots should be pegged down so that their points touch the ground. Be careful in bending them or they will split at the COLOURED PRIMROSES. SOME twenty years ago I began the culture of these charming hardy flowers, and my love for them remains undi- minished. I must confess that my affection is in a great measure confined to that form of Primrose which resembles in growth and manner of flowering the Primrose of the woods. If our native Primula acaulis carried its blossoms on Polyanthus-like stems I do not think we should love it quite so well. It is not only the colour of the flowers, but the habit of the plant, that charms. Although the flowers face the sky so boldly, they nestle cosily among the fresh green foliage, finding shelter from the cold winds which frequently pass over the land when earlj' spring flowers are giving us a foretaste of joj's to come in the open-air garden. Fine and effective as is the so-called Bunch or Polyanthus Primrose, it is neither one thing nor the other. It has the habit of the Pol3'anthus and flowers in Primrose time. It fails, moreover, to yield any measure of its beauty before the spring sunshine calls up its blossoms, whereas the true Primrose forms give us an idea in late autumn, and even in winter in a mild time, of what they are going to do under the influence of April showers and May sunshine. Not infrequently when the growing time has been favourable and the young leaves have come up strongly in early autumn, one may have quite a little show of the many-hued blossoms. I have gathered them fresh and fair varying in colour from pure white to rich crimson in midwinter. It is this habit of producing blooms under the leaden skies of an English winter that intensifies the potentiality they possess for beauti- fying the outdoor garden. In their ease it is even possible to cheat the sharp frosts and heavy rains that mar the beauty of the flowers. Pick them just before they expand, and they will open indoors in the warmth of a living room. A bed of these coloured Primroses is one of the fairest pictures one can have in the spring garden. In a good strain one gets such a wide range of colour — pure white, rich crimson, and blue, with any amount of intermediate shades. For many years a blue Primrose was a dream of the florist, but which was not thought would ever be realised. We have blue Primroses now, but the flower grower generally does not enthuse over them ; in fact, I have heard them called monstrosities and abortions. I wonder if it would be the same with blue Roses and blue Dahlias. Possibly they would not realise anticipations. Many years ago I witnessed the birth of the blue Primrose at Wisley. The plant, which was afterwards named Scott Wilsjn, was growing on the hillside in the shelter of a Furze bank, and carried three flowers. It took many years of patient selection to bring O.ikwood Blue to life, this being the parent of the present race of blue Primroses. I have in remem- brance, however, that some twenty years ago Mr. Dean exhibited a variety under the name of True Blue. What the fate of it was I do not know, but I never remember seeing it mentioned in any garden paper afterwards. I fancy that the shades of blue which distinguish these Primroses January 14, li)05.J THE GARDEN. are rather too deep ; there is a pur- plish tinge running through them which takes off the brilliancy of tint. When looking over some beds of them at Wisley previous to their distribution I noticed several plants of a lighter shade, more like the blue of the blue-bag, and I thought, and still think, that that was the tint which should be encouraged. In the woodland garden these Prim- roses cannot be too freely used, and they are delightful in the grass, their pretty bright blossoms, peeping out from the fresh verdure, having a most charming appearance. In the woodlands one easily secures more natural conditions for these little flowers of spring ; the opening flowers are in some measure screened from pelting rains, and in the partial shelter of deciduous trees they do not suffer much from spring frosts, which in the open sometimes mar their freshness. We all know how the yellow Primrose grows. We find it either in the woods and hedgerows or damp meadows thrusting up its pale-eyed blossoms from among the lush grass, and we know that under those conditions plants live to a good old age, a very little shelter naturally increasing longevity. In the grass the coloured varieties are equally at home, and will live happily there for years. Of course, the grass must not be out until growth is completed, other- wise there will be a loss of vigour. Only good strong plants should be used for naturalising in grass or woodland, and in all cases planting should, if possible, be done before the end of the year. In raising plants from seeds my practice has been to sow as soon as the seeds were ripe in the case of small quantities in boxes or when I required a quantity in well- prepared soil in cold frames. By the close of the autumn one gets nice little plants with several leaves, which, if got out into good soil and well looked after throughout the summer, will grow into vigorous specimens capable of carrying several dozen blooms, which will begin to reward the growers in early autumn for pains and labour bestowed upon them. J. CORNHILL. THE MOUNTAIN LILY (RANUNCULUS LYALLi) IN NEW ZEALAND. 1 charming grouped in a hall or large drawing- I room against a background of Ferns and foliage plants. Canterbury Bells dislike heavy rains and cold winds, and delight in the warm shelter of a room where there can be no injury to the pure white of their charming blossoms ; but for early flowering indoors the plants should be potted in October. A. de Lacy Lacy. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. SWEET PEAS AND CANTERBURY BELLS. A 1 L kind of preparatory work is to be done now that J anuary is with us if we would have our borders beautiful in the ensuing summer. Sweet Peas must be sown. Take some of the pots lately vacated by early Chrysanthemums, wash and purify them well, and crock them liberally, putting next a layer of fresh stable manure, and 1311 up with good clean soil, well rammed down. In each pot sow twenty seeds of large varieties of different colours, keeping these separate, in case youshould want them for your colour sections. Put in at once some little twigs round the edge, water well, and place as near the light as possible. These are for large clumps to plant out in April, and more Sweet Peas can be sown in small pots in February for the same purpose, and in the open in March. I am not an advocate for autumn sowing, as the young plants have to run the gauntlet of so many dangers. There is yet time to pot up some Canterbury Bells from the reserve garden. It is a splendid subject for such treat- ment, and flowers much earlier and much more profusely than those that have wintered in the borders. I stand them out directly all fear of frost is over on the terrace or on the steps leading to it, staking them securely against a possible gale, and then they give the colour and bloom so acceptable at a season when the summer flowers are tarrying. The white varieties are especially THE MOUNTAIN LILY. I SEND you one or two photographs of some of our alpine plants. The one of the Mountain Lily does not do justice to the surroundings. It struck me at the time as a perfect little natural water garden. In the centre of the picture there is a Daisy, something like a Marguerite, of a pale lemon colour slightly darkening towards the tips, which seems to grow best in running water. The altitude of the place would be nearly 5,000 feet. The Mountain Daisy (Celmisia) grows at the same altitude, but likes a somewhat drier soil, growing best on the shady side of the gullies. The speci- men photographed was about 3J inches in diameter, and was a very fine one. The Vegetable Sheep is one of the most curious of our native plants. It is of a greenish grey colour, with the stems packed very close together and the tips level with one another, so that the plant looks more like a fungus than a plant with stem, branches, and leaves. The flower is a very minute Daisy-like one, sprinkled over the surface of the plant. The name originated from a fancied resemblance at a distance to living sheep, and the plants are sometimes mistakenf or such by the shepherds. My brother tells me that he has him- self sent his dogs alter them. They grow at an altitude of about 6,000 feet. The photographs were taken in the Glenthorn country, between the rivers Harper and Wilberforce, at the head of Lake Coleridge. Hakold Larkin. Christchurch, New Zealand. a similar nature. The flowers, which are white with a pink spot on the petals, are thrown up on long stems, but in my experience at least are not numerously produced. These encrusted Saxifragas are very bright and attractive just now. Their encrustations are never so well marked as in late autumn and early winter. All the Saxifragas love moisture, and never seem to get too much when the soil is right and the drainage is good. As the days diminish in length the markings become more distinct and the foliage takes on a richer tinge. This class of plant, which is most attractive at a time when there is little beauty in the outdoor garden, is worthy of much care. Byfleet. J. C. SAXIFRAGA ALTISSIMA. This is one of the strongest growing of the encrusted Saxifragas, and has the appearance of being a hybrid between pyramidalis and longifolia. It grows under congenial circumstances with much freedom, increasing more rapidly than any kind of A RARE CROCUS. Crocus caspius, only introduced to cultivation in 1902, although known to botanists for some time, and figured in Maw'a " Monograph," flowered with me early in December from corms received by me in November, 1902, through the kindness of one of the enterprising syndicate who organised the collecting expedition. It appears to be suitable for our climate, and one which will be worth including in a garden where hardy winter flowers are appre- ciated. With me it has been continuously culti- vated since I received it in the open without any protection, and in a light sandy peat soil. No covering has been given at any time, and the blooms now open are unprotected. It is certainly a drawback that the paucity of sunshine at its blooming time prevents our having the full enjoyment of the little white flowers, but even on a gloomy day the little cones of white, with the touch of brightness given by the yellow base, are delightful indeed. Mr. George Maw's plate (No. XLVI.), which I have before me as I write, cannot be said to do justice to this Crocus. The white is purer and the yellow brighter than the plate would indicate. According to Mr. Maw, C. caspius was discovered by Hohenacker in 1838 on the western and southern coasts of the Caspian Sea, and he states that it had also been collected in northern Persia and Georgia. It was recorded near Astrabad, and the corms sent home by the collector employed by the syndicate in 1902 were collected in the Russian Talysh, south-west of the 24 THE GARDEN. [January 14, 1905 Caspian Sea. Id its native habitats it begins to flower in October and November, and continues to flower until April. It will hardly be so prolonged in its flowering with us, but it will be a welcome little flower in gardens where it is established. As it was originally found under bushes I have it in a place partially shaded, where it is doing well and is now showing signs of increase. The segments are about IJ inches long, and the leaves are produced with the flowers, reaching about the same height as these at the time of flowering. S. Arnott. Oarsethorn, JV.B. allowed to £;row more than 2 inches in length. The di.sb with the bulbs is kept in the light and in a cool room, ^vith a temperature not exceeding 40'' to 4j" Fahr. The plants then develop slowly, and are given as much light as possible, the idea being that the foliage should not exceed 6 inches or 8 inches in height, the leaves stand up stiffly, and are of a dark green. The liower-stems must be stout and i CULTIVATION OF THE NARCISSUS IN CHINA. A FEW days since a florist with a large business informed me ^ that there is a great demand in fashionable society for the above beautiful flower, so perhaps the readers of The Garden will be interested to' learn more concerning this welcome visitor from the Far East, it being a native of Southern China, whence for centuries it has been annually exported to Peking and other Mandarin centre.-i in the cold north. At Peking it is a great favourite, being, with the exception of two or three dwarf shrubs, which blossom in pots, the only winter flower. Thus in every Mandarin's household or homes of the better classes there is always one or more servants who are experts at rearing the "Shivei Shiang Hua," or " Water Fragrance Flower," around which there is much of beautiful sentiment ; tirstly, because of a play on the words, which imply mutual and sincere friend- ship, and the sensation of an exhilarating influence when a beautiful bowl con- taining the bulbs in blossom is suddenly placed on a festive table, where, coming into a warmer atmosphere from a colder room, these lovely flowers give off a deliciously sweet and " crisp " perfume. Hard and solid bulbs are carefully selected by the special servants (these bulbs must not have grown) and are placed on a sheltered windowsill and thoroughly dried in the sun, the face changed so that the whole bulb may ab.sorb evenly the sun rays. Then an oblong dish, 2 inches deep, is made nearly full with white pebbles, or small flint stones, which must be perfectly clean. A small quantity of the purest water obtainable, not rain water, is poured into the dish, just sufficient to cover two- thirds of the stones. This water is changed at least every six days, and the bulbs and stones thoroughly cleansed. The bulbs are placed so that they just touch the water. All dark or unhealthy rootlets are cut away, and no roots are A HARDY I'ALM IN UK. BEALE S GARDEN AT WEYIiRIDGE. firm ; the crown, of not less than twelve strong blossoms on each stem, should rise proudly about 1 inch above the foliage. Some experts, in order that tbey may secure better blossom heads and less foliage, cut away the three outer layers of the bulb. The bulbs must be kept in the sunshine and turned round daily. They can be placed in earth instead of water if desired, but grown as the natives of Peking grow them they will, when brought from the cooler atmosphere into a warmer room, quickly fill a large space with fresh and breezy perfume, which makes one imagine that it is a lovely spring day, and a gentle wind has wafted in the scents of many delicious flowers. Ticehurst, Sussex. E. T. Tueley. TREES AND SHRUBS. A HARDY PALM. SOME take a delight in imparting a tropical appearance to their gardens by planting Bamboos, Dracasnas, Aralias, and other exotics. There is a good deal to be said in support of this practice. They relieve the monotony of outline that is all too fre- quent in shrubberies, and add a distinctness that is hardly possible to obtain from more familiar trees and shrubs. There are few Palms that can be left out of doors through the winter, even in the most favoured parts of the British Isles. There is only one that can be said to be hardy even in the southern Midland gardens. This is Trachy- carpusexcelsa, better known lierhaps as Chamajrops exceisa, of which we give an illustration. The plant shown is in the Weybridge garden of Dr. Lionel Beale, and was planted out of doors more than twenty years ago. It is protected by a high hedge from the north, and has a south-east aspect. This Ch amis rops is rather more than thirty years old. It was a small table plant, and was bought with a few others twenty- five years ago at Stevens's ; they cost less than 6d. each. It is now 12 feet high ; the leaves extend over a space nearly 12 feet square. The largest leaves are 4 feet in diameter, and the petiole is the same length. The hairy stem is 5 feet high, and nearly 3 feet in circumfer- ence. It is not advisable to transplant Palms ; to do so throws them back. A good place should be chosen at first, and even if the plant looks rather unhappy at first, it is better to leave it undisturbed, for after a year or two it will doubt- less improve. Many of the liot plants of this Palm that are starving in greenhouses or rooms would probably be far happier if planted out of doors in some sheltered nook in fairly good soil. The illustration shows admirably how well this Palm will thrive out of doors if it is not too much exposed. Y. Z. COTONEASTER ANGUSTIFOLIA- This is one of the many interesting hardy shrubs collected in China by French mis- sionaries, who sent seed of it to M. Maurice de Vilmorin, who raised and fruited it in his richly stocked garden at Les Barres. A number of profusely fruiting branches of this new Cotoneaster were exhibited for him at the November meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society at Vincent Square by Mr. George Paul, to whom he sent them. The colour of January 14, inC5.] THE GARDEN. 25 the fruit is a clear orange yellow, which is quite new iu Cotoneasters, and therefore a great acquisition. In general appearance the fruit resembles (in every respect save the colour) that of CraUegus Lelandu. Plants ot this interesting new shrub can now be obtained at an extremely moderately price from M. Leon Chenault of Orleans. W. E. GUMBLETON. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WINTER COLOUR. There is usually a wealth of brightly coloured leaves and fruits on various trees and shtubs m the autumn, but a very limited number are conspicuous in the winter. To brighten the garden in winter we have to rely upon a few plants that hold their fruits, and others that have bright-coloured stems A judicious selection of trees and shrubs at this planting time will make all the difiEerence during the winter months in the attractiveness garden. Of course, the amount of space to be planted governs to a large extent the size of the plants employed, but there are many small- growing shrubs that can be used in small gardens. It is rather surprising that more of these winter trees and shrubs are not planted, as practically all of them are to be obtained very cheaply, and are also very easy to grow, while their value during the dullest time of the year is incalculable. The trees best suited for winter effect are the common Birch (Betula alba) and its North Ameri- can cousin, the Paper Birch (B. papyrifera) ; both are of graceful outline, while the stems of mature trees are of a gleaming whiteness, which shows to advantage, especially against a dark background of evergreens. Salix alba var. argentea, with whitish stems ; S. fragilis var. basfor- diana, with reddish yellow twigs ; and S. daphnoides, with violet-coloured stems, are all trees of medium height that are very conspicuous, especially near water. These three Willows can also be treated as shrubs by cutting them down each spring just as growth commences. Ulmus alata (the Winged Elm) is a tree attain- ing a height of about 20 feet, with a broad, spreading head, and makes a striking winter picture with its curious corky winged branches. Of smaller trees and shrubs ranging from 10 feet to 20 feet in height there are Acer pennsylvanicum (A. striatum), the Snake-barked Maple, with its ,_— ««?S^^ -. Clio, D. Euterpe, and others that commence pushing new growths when the flower-buds begin to swell. The object of the grower should be to prevent, if possible, these new growths from advancing too quickly. Therefore too much moisture must not be given either at the root or in the atmosphere, and such growths seldom attain to any great size. If these gro'.vths are not kept in check at the proper time the plants rarely flower well, and the few that open do not always come to perfection. Water must be given to the plants at long intervals until the flowers fade, even until the new growths commence to emit roots, great care is necessary, as they are very liable to damp oS'. Keep the plants in a house where the air is dry and the tempera- ture about .55". When the flower-buds are well advanced the plants may then be placed in a slightly warmer atmosphere. Such plants as D. Ainsworthii, D. splendidissi- raum grandiflorum, D. aureum, D. Pierardii, D. lituifloruni, D. nobile, and its many distinct varieties, also other species and hybrids of this section, too numerous to mention here, that are prominently showing their flower -buds, now require a few more degrees of heat to bring them to perfection. If placed in a light position in the Cattleya house for a lew days, afterwards removing them to the south side of the warmest house, their flowers will open clear and rich. The flowering season of these Dendrobiums may be prolonged by introducing at intervals those plants whose flower-buds are most forward into a gentle warmth as required. The evergreen species, as D. thrysiflorum, D. densiflorum, D. Farmerii, D. griffithianum, D. Schruderi, &c. , which are now at rest, should be examined periodically to see that none of them are shrivelling too much. If allowed to remain dry tor long the leaves will prematurely turn yellow and fall off, which greatly disfigures the plants. Temperatures for the Orchid Hocses. — During January the night temperatures, as main- tained by fire-heat, of the various houses in which Orchids are grown should be as follows : East Indian house, or plant stove, should range from 60" to Go" ; the Cattleya, or intermediate, house, 55" to 60" ; Mexican, about 55" ; and the Odontoglossum house, 4S" to .50". Although during e.xceptionally severe weather, when the houses, owing to the unusual amount of fire-heat, are comparatively dr}', the amount of warmth may fall a few degrees with benefit to the plants, during mild weather the higher figures may be maintained without injury. By day with sun-heat the temperatures should rise several degrees above those given, and fresh air should be admitted to all the houses whenever practicable. Burford, Dorking. W. H. White. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. HOW TO MAKE AN ASPARAGUS BED. EVERYONE possessing a kitchen garden, no matter how small, should have one or two Asparagus beds. There is no reason why Asparagus should not be as common and reasonable in price in season as any other hardy vegetable. Now is a good time to form the beds. These should be 7 feet wide and of any length desired. If there are two or more beds side by side the distance between them should be 3 feet. The soil should be dug out of the bed to a depth of 1 foot and placed in the space between the beds, as it will be wanted to cover these with by and by. On the bottom of the bed should be placed, if available, any garden vegetable refuse which it is otten dilticull to know what to do with, such as Cabbage and Bean-stalks, Potato haulms, &c. This will make an excellent foundation for the bed as a manure, and will also act more or less for some years in draining it. The Asparagus does not like very damp ground or too heavj' or cold a soil. Where seaweed is available this makes an excellent substitute for forming the bottom of the bed. The Asparagus, being a seaside plant, delights in this medium. Where neither of these materials is to be had, place a layer of manure on the bottom, 6 inches thick, digging it in and mixing with the bottom soil of the bed, afterwards treading January .U, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 31 the dug ground gently with the feet. (The treading must only be carried out when the soil is fairly dry.) On the top of this place another layer of richer and more decayed manure — say, 4 inches thick — lay over this 4 inches of the soil near by, and tread the whole down, when, after raking over, it will be ready to receive the young roots. A bed of this size will hold five rows — one in the centre and two each side, 18 inches apart and "2 feet between root and root in the rows. Two year old plants are the best for planting, and these may be procured from any local nurseryman at a cheap rate per hundred or thousand. The end of March or the first week in April is the best time to plant. The roots should be laid on the surface of the prepared beds at the distances apart given, and then each covered with a good spadeful of soil. This should be pressed firmly about the roots, covering them over with 3 inches of soil. Take care that the soft crown of the root is not injured by hard pressure. Add more soil to the surface of the beds from the side paths or alleys, bringing it to the same level as the soil over the roots. Draw the rake over the former, and edge the sides of the pathways between with the spade. A few heads of Asparagus may be cut the second year after planting for about a fortnight while the crop is at its best, but none the first year. The third year will furnish a good crop, and every year afterwards with little expense or trouble for a lifetime, pro- vided it is kept clear of weeds in summer and receives a dressing of manure each autumn after the ripe grass is cut off. Connover's Colossal is the beat variety. T. E. LESSONS FROM 1904. ( Continued from page 15.) Varieties to Choosi; jor 1905. — French Beans. Nb Plus Ultra can hardly be beaten for early work, and Canadian Wonder has not yet been superseded for general use. It is a great cropper, and its fine, long, handsome pods look well on the exhibition table. Some of the new climbing French forms are a great gain when French Beans are much in request. Runner Beans. For some reason these did not do so well as in some years, but I am quite at a loss to understand why. Many theories have been given for the failure to set freely as in some years, but none have satisfied me. One of the most common is that it was owing to the bees piercing the flowers to extract the honey, but this, I think, can hardly hold good, as in former years bees were quite as plentiful. I think no one will deny that enormous strides have been made during recent j'ears in the improvement of this favourite vegetable, but the greatest mystery to me is why people will still continue to grow the older sorts, which have long been superseded in every respect. Ne Plus Ultra first led the way, and still remains a very good variety. Last year Bowerman's Hackwood Success was distributed by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, being a distinct improvement on existing sorts. Yet another surprise. Lye's Sydraonton Exhibition, which, I understand, has passed into the hands of Messrs. J. Carter and Co. All who have had an opportunity of seeingthe splendid samples from time to time shown by that famous vegetable grower Mr. R. Lye. must have been struck with his rare speci- mens. I grew a few last year to compare with others, and there is no doubt it is quite distinct and the most perfect type of Runner Bean yet seen. Sutton's Prizewinner i>i also a capital variety. As a white- seeded sort. Carter's Jubilee is very fine. Bkoad Beans. 1 have grown a large number of varieties during the past year for comparison, and these did well, lasting over a long season. Carter's Leviathan still leads the way as the largest and best variety. Very fine also is a green variety, nimed Green Leviathan and Sutton's Giant Green, both having seeds of a nice green colour, which they retain when cooked. Of the Windsor varieties, Webb's New Gigantic Green was the best. A most valuable addition for late use. Carrots. These have been much better than for some years pant, being attacked less by maggot and wire- worm. Veitch's Model, Carter's Summer Favourite, and Sutton's Favourite are all excellent for frame culture and sowing on warm borders and shallow soils. The new improved forms of Intermediate are unquestionably the best for general use. Webb's Prize-taker and Sutton's New Intermediate proved to be the best with us during the past year, both being handsome and of fine colour. Carter's Blood Red is a most distinct sort, the deepest-coloured variety I know, and where it does well is unsur- passed ; but, unfortunately, its constitution is not good. I trust by careful hybridisation and re- aelecting this will be improved. Carter's Red Elephant grows to an enormous size, and is ver3' handsome, but should be lifted early, otherwise it is inclined to become coarse. Beetroot. Seldom has the crop been better than last year, and there are now a large number of excellent varieties. Why the northern growers so much object to the red varieties I fail to understand, as the best of these, such as Dell's Crimson, are, in my opinion, superior to any of the black sons, and are of equal, if not better, appearance. The Globe varieties are a great gain for prolonging the season, and for spring use are invaluable. If brought along gently on very mild hot-beds no difficulty will be experienced in obtaining good roots by the end of April, which are far superior to those kept through the winter. Carter's Crimson Ball is a splendid and reliable strain. As a long Beet for general purposes Dell's Crimson still maintains its position. Very good also are Sutton's Blood Red and Carter's Perfection. Of dark varieties Dobbie's New Purple is good, but should not be grown too large. Cheltenham Green Top, when a good strain can be procured, is worth a place in all collections. Brussels Sprouts. It has been an ideal season for these, and every- where most excellent crops are to be found. These began to button early and promised well all through the winter. Unfortunately, there is a tendency to get these much too large, medium sized, tight buttons, are greatly to be preferred to the larger and coarser sorts. Sutton's Dwarf Gem is just what a Sprout should be, and the strain is thoroughly fixed and reliable. Cambridge Champion is also a grand strain, and one I much like. (To he continued.) THE INDOOR GARDEN. M THE BALSAM. ANY years ago the Balsam was aptlv termed " the Prince of Annuals." Since then it has ceased to be popular, and yet, having regard to its luxuriant growth, its branching habit, and its wealth of bloom, one wonders it is so much neglected. It may probably be said " so many new introductions claim atten- tion that some old ones have to make room for them," though it does not naturally follow the exchange is always advantageous. It is rather more than 400 years ago since Impatiens Balsamina wasir.troduced from Tropical Asia. It is, therefore, a half-hardy annual, though it will do well in the open ground in summer, and when in congenial soil grow into large bushes laden with flowers. I have seen large plantations of double Balsams in Messrs. Sutton and Sons' seed trial grounds at Reading producing blooms of fine quality, but the soil was light and free and the position open and sunny. Time was when at some country flower shows gardeners vied with each other in producing very fine examples of double Balsams in large pots, and they always made an attractive feature. Onerarely sees them now. They have crone out with the Petunia and Verbena, and the Begonia, among other subjects, has taken their place. When they were grown for exhibition and decorative purposes, seedsmen had their fine strains of double Balsams, the Brothers Smith, who had a nursery at Dulwich, in particular were renowned for their strain, and the Balsam was then much grown as a market plant. One can only wonder who commenced to improve upon the single form which first came to us from so great a distance. Probably Nature itself led the way, for the Balsam, being a self-fertilising flower, no doubt began to show variations which attracted attention and led to the seedlings being cultivated. But we have gone back rather than forward, for I nowhere see in these days such Balsams as I saw forty years ago, the flowers large, double, and brilliantly coloured, true Camellia- shaped, and very handsome. It is a matter for regret that so fine a flower has become so sadly neglected. One of the most successful cultivators I ever knew used to make two sowings of Balsam seeds, one early in March, and again at the latter end of April. His reason for doing this was to secure a succession of plants. The seeds were sown in pots, in a gentle, moist heat, and as soon as the seed- leaves were perfectly formed they were potted off singly into 3-inch pots and placed in a gentle warmth. They soon filled the pots with roots, then came a shift into 6inch pots and still kept in heat, and when these were filled with roots a final shift was made into 9-inoh pots, in which the plants were bloomed. Then came a removal to a cold frame, which was kept close for a few days while the plants were becoming root-active. Then plenty of air was given during the early part of the day ; the lights were closed at night, a sprinkle overhead being previously given, which had the effect of keeping the plants clean, and especially from red spider. The compost used was good turfy loam and well deeomposed cow manure in rather a rough state, two-thirds of one and one-third of the manure, in this the plants root freely ; ample drainage was provided, water was plentifully supplied as required , and when the buds were beginning to expand some diluted manure was given about twice a week. By thinning out the flower-buds as required very fine and full double blossoms were obtained on handsome well-branched specimens. The plants from the second sowing were reared without heat. As soon as potted off singly into 3-inch pots they were placed in a cold frame, and kept close for a few days, then treated to a free supply of air in the early part of the day, the frame was closed early in the afternoon with a moist atmosphere; they were repotted when neces- sary. They were grown on in the frame until they began to come into bloom, and then removed to a greenhouse, the plants in each case being grown for house decoration. Objection is sometimes taken to the Balsam that they litter the greenhouse floor through the flowers dropping, but the same can be said of the Fuchsia and other subjeets. The finer the quality of the Balsam the less produce is there in the way of seeds. A. Dean. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULJSS FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— TAe Editor intends to make Thb Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance y no mutterwhat the branch of gardening may be, and toith that object will make a special feature of the '^^ Answers to Corre- spondents" column. All communications should he clearlt/ and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of THE GARDEN, 3, Southampton Street, Straiid, London. Letters on bifsiiiess should be sent to the Publisher, The n^me and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each shoxUd be on a separate piece of paper. Names op Plants. ^Miss O'G. — I, Quercus Cerris var. crispa ; 2, Q. C. cana major ; 3, Q. Ilex ; 6, 7, and 8, Q. lucombeana ; 9, Q. Ilex ; 3. 5, and 10 are uncertain, but appear to be forms of Q. lucombeana or seedlings between Q. Cerris and Q. Ilex or Suber. (T. H. Cox. — Begonia semper- 82 THE GARDEN. r January H, ]005. florens gigantea carminea, which was raised and dislribuled some j'ears since by M. Leraoine of Nancy. Plants to Colour (N. A. N.J. — We think the nearest approach to what you require would be found in Salvia patens (blue), Paris Daisy, Chry- santhemum frutescens Etoile d'Or (yellow), and the red of Scarlet Geranium or Begonia. These are greenhouse subjects. In hardy plants we would incline to Chionodoxa (blue), CEnothera for the yellow, and Anemone fulgens or Carnations as red. In annuals we select Nemophila, Cornflower, or Forget-me-not (blue), Antirrhinum (yellow), and Wallflower or Field Poppy (red). Forcing Rhdeabb {H. W. Knox). — Rhubarb is easily forced ; it only needs a terriperalure rangingfrom .5.5° to 60", and nothing can be more acceptable for making tarts and for similar pur- poses. The stools when dug up may be placed underneath the stage of a stove or that of a warm greenhouse, and covered with ordinary garden soil, keeping them well watered to make the young leaves crisp and tender. If found to be more con- venient, the stools may be placed in pots or boxes, when the}' can be moved from one place to another as may be desirable. When filled the pots or boxes may be set in a vinery or Peach house, and when forcing commences the Rhubarb plants will soon show signs of growth ; they will then need frequent watering in order to keep the soil moist, for if watering is neglected the stalks will be tough and stringy instead of solid and crisp. If space can be spared in a Mushroom house for Rhubarb, that will be found to be one of the best structures in which to grow it. Fodstain Basin for Aquatics, &c. fC. H. C. ). We quite agree with you that the abrupt top line of the cement will look very ugly, and we suggest you remedy this defect by building around and against the basin wall a sort of small rockwork arrangement, which should also cover the surface of the basin wall. Given a series of soil pockets, both on the top and sides, it would be simplicity itself to insert low-growing alpines, as Campanulas, Aubrietias, Saxifragas, Phloxes, and any other free-growing carpeting subjects that would at once dispose of the not very pleasing formal line now exposed to view, but would at the same time make the exterior interesting at all seasons. None of the plants used need exceed 6 inches in height, and having due regard to the more surface- covering subjects on the top, they would not detract from the occupants of the basin. With regard to the plants and the mode of planting, it were better that the plants occupy positions at the bottom, where in a bed of rich clayey loam they would pass a much more natural existence than is possible by any other method of dealing with them. With the fountain completed we think the following method of planting will be best : Firstly, place all your plants in pots, very shallow wicker baskets, or even open wire baskets. In these latter the occupants can be fixed securely. With the plants so treated you may now allot each its position at the bottom of the fountain. This done, place in rich clayey loam — any strong holding loam will do quite well — in sufficient quantity nearly to cover the receptacles containing the plants, the soil at the same time serving to keep all in position. Make the soil comparatively firm about the pots or baskets. With the fountain clear of water, all this is not only easy to do, but is calculated to ensure complete success. By these means the pots or baskets used originally are only a means to an end, and presently the roots of the plants, obtaining greater freedom, possess ample opportunities for becoming well established. At the present time there is a wealth of subjects to select from, and you may select the Nymphseas of the odorata group in variety : N. Marliacea carnea, N. M. chromatella, N. Laydeckeri rosea, &c. A very showy subject, distinct in leaf and flower, is Sagittaria variabilis fl.-pl. , and the plants, with the foliage standing well out of the water, could be used around the rook in the centre of the foun- tain. To afford greater variety Iris Kjempferi could be grown in pots whose base may be in contact with the water. The gold fish, which have a decided preference for shade, which the Nymphiea leaves would afford, live chiefly on the animalcula; in the water. They are especially partial to ant's eggs, which they quickly devour. Such artificial food should not be given more than twice weekl}', and only then in small quantities. WiNTER-FLOWEEiNG Begonias (B. ). — The newer sorts that have come into cultivation are a great improvement in the habit of growth on those which alone were known at a comparatively recent date. They also bear larger flowers, and more of them, in proportion to the size the plants attain. The section of Begonias that is generallj' known as greenhouse will do through the winter if kept in ordinary greenhouse warmth, say with a night temperature of about 35°, but to have the plants in the condition that admits of their giving the best return, in the shape of the full complement of flowers they can J'ield, the temperature should be 45° in the night, with a rise in the day in accord- ance with the state of the weather. A little over the warmth named will do no harm, provided the plants are in a light house, and are kept sufficiently near the glass. Treated in this way they will make more growth than when they only have enough heat to keep them healthy, and it is needless to say that the amount of bloom that is forthcoming will be proportionate to the growth that is made. When the plants are under-potted they should have manure water once a week, by which means the necessary vigour will be kept up through the winter and spring to enable them to give an uninterrupted succession of flowers. Climbers os Trees (R. A. Rohinson). — We do not call to mind any climbing plant we would care to recommend for the position that would be at all likely to succeed permanently. You may, how- ever, succeed with such things as could be replaced each year, for example. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums growing in boxes could surround the stem at some distance from the trunk of the tree and give a fair amount of blossom. It is the dryness and poverty of the soil in this particular instance that always defies any attempt at growing such things. We have, however, seen the white Lilium candidum succeed fairly well when some- what similarly placed, and as the plant is quite cheap it may be worth trying in your case, and assuming the plants reached the flowering stage, the exceeding purity of the blossoms would be brought into greater prominence by the sombre green of the leafage above. Should you try this it were better to give some fresh soil to the bulbs to start in, and in so doing render what assistance is possible in the exceptional circumstance of the case. Soil for Vine Border (Noxme). — The sample of loam for a Vine border you send shows excellent material for potting, but is hardly sufficiently holding for a Vine border. If you could add to it, in the proportion of one-fourth, stifl', retentive soil — but, of course, not sour clay — it would help to render it more holding. A very light, porous soil is not good for Vines, or, indeed, for the making of a border for any fruits, as its tendency is to promote the production of strong thong-like roots rather than those of a finer or fibrous nature. As to what proportion of bone to add to this soil, we cannot analyse it to determine what proportion of phosphates it now contains, but it is well to follow common practice and mix with the soil for the border about one-sixth or one-seventh its propor- tion of bone, broken quite small ; also add one- sixth of old mortar refuse and wood ashes. If your soil is just of the sample sent, add rather less lime rubbish, as its primary object is to help keep the soil open, so that fine roots can run freely in it. You are giving far too much drainage by putting in 1 foot thickness of stone rubble. These deep bodies of drainage have been found to drain borders too dry on ordinary soils. If your border is in a cold, wet position, the body of drainage proposed is not too much. When the drainage is placed in position and provided with an outlet in the form of a small drain to carry off the water, a layer of turf, grass downwards, should be laid over it, and on it the soil about 2 feet in depth. This should be made fairly firm by gentle treading to settle it well down. A border 4 feet in width is ample to begin with for two years, but do not expose the front bank of the border to hot sunshine in the summer. Give the Vines in the summer a thin top-dressing or mulch of stable manure, but gross feeding until the Vines begin to carry good crops of Grapes is undesirable. Of course, you may add the charcoal proposed. You should get the border made and planted as soon as possible. Do not tie up the Vines tightly at first, as the border may sink a little. Cut the Vines hard back a fortnight after planting, as it is essential they should, to form main fruiting rods, break low down. You will do well not to attempt to force growth the first year. Let the Vines break natural!}', and when growth is 2 feet or so long a little gentle warmth may help them materially to form fine fruiting rods. But it is not the biggest rods that make the best fruiting wood. Too often young gardeners, over anxious to push growth the first year, have done so, and found, when these gross rods have been shortened to break back the following season, they have broken badly, and have produced few and poor bunches. Fern Fronds Diseased (Constant Reader). — The enclosed Fern fronds are badly attacked by yellow thrips, a tiny, almost microscopic, insect whose ravages are greatly on the increase. A good deal of the mischief is done while the fronds are young and succulent, and as they develop the dis- coloured parts become more noticeable, in fact, that is often the first intimation that there is anything wrong. A great number of different subjects are liable to be attacked by them. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine being an especial favourite of theirs. As with the common black thrips so well known to gardeners in general these small yellow ones make more rapid headway in a dry atmosphere than where a liberal amount of moisture is maintained; indeed, we have in the case of Ferns known them first to attack a few plants in proximity to the hot-water pipes, and from these spread through the entire structure, thus doing a good deal of damage before the true source of the trouble was ascer- tained. It is probable that just now you will be able to find few, if any, insects, but with the return of the spring the eggs will hatch out, and the young pests will at once attack the undeveloped fronds. The most effectual remedy we have yet found is vaporising with the XL All Vaporiser, as the poisonous nicotine being distributed in the form of a fine vapour forms a deposit on the leaves which is fatal to nearly all insect pests. Even mealy bug succumb to it if persevered in. We should advise you to vaporise at intervals of a month or so till a cure is effected, after which it may be left con- siderably longer. While the fronds are for the most part in a dormant condition it is not likely any injury will be done them in vaporising now, but in spring, just as the 3'oung fronds are pushing up, especial care must be taken not to make the steam too strong, otherwise some of the more delicate fronds, especially those of the Maiden- hair, are apt to suffer. Michaelmas Daisies (E. E. A.). — Much improvement has been wrought in recent years with the varieties of Heath-like growth, and as they are cultivated with the greatest ease, they are plants for the million. No matter whether your garden be large or small, these plants will well adapt themselves to the position and reward you in the early autumn with a display quite distinct from an}' other subject flowering at the same time. A hundred plants can be procured for two guineas. Of the ericoides section we recommend Aster ericoides superbus (pale blue flowers), A. e. Freedom (a grand sort, white, very dense), A. e. Clio (white, very dainty), and the type Aster ericoides (small white flowers). Of the cordifolius section the following are lovely : Aster cordifolius Diana (small blush flowers, very chaste), A. c. Albulus (white, shaded lilac), A. c. giganteus (blush pink, strong grower), and the type Aster cordifolius (white, shaded rosy pink). The vimineus section is also a very interesting type, and is well represented by the type Aster vimineus (white, minute flowers), and V. Nanno (white, a very slender and graceful form of growth). *.j* The yearly subscription to The Garden is : Inland, 6's. 6d. ; Foreign, Ss. Od. I I January 14, 1905. THE GARDEN. IX. I THE CHILD'S GARDEN. T is quite remarkable liow soon a love of flowers manifests itself in the young child. In a family of children one— it matters not whether it be a boy or a girl— will, before it can speak, stretch out its hands for a flower, and show it to its friends with gurgles of delight. Later, it will insist on always having a flower pinned to its frock, and its choicest gift to its mother or nurse is a handful of flowers picked by itself. Most children enjoy plucking flowers — but that is often only a love of acquisition or destruction — the real child flower-lover treasures its flowers and weeps when they perish. One little French boy, who lived in a pretty inn in the Basses Pyrenees, was furious if we ventured into the flowery glades near his home ; every flower was to him a living sentient thing, and when we returned with our hands full of wild Hepaticas and Columbines he would fling himself into his mother's arms in an agony of tears, remon- strating violently at our conduct in his strange patois. I know, too, of another little chap whose great delight is to pass his arm through his mother's and walk with her up and down the herbaceous borders repeating the names of the flowers, and very often quite correctly. Boys seem to have quite as much love for flowers as girls ; indeed, I am not sure the average of boy gardeners is not greater. Of course, for obvious reasons, it is much more difficult for boys as they get older to continue their interest in gardening ; but there are some cases when early instruction in that charming art proves of great value in after life ; at any rate, it can do no harm if the boy has a marked taste for it. For delicate boys no better occu- pation can be found, now that people are beginning to realise the enormous benefit to be derived from living in the open air. I know of a boy of ten years old who suffers from chronic asthma, and, consequently, is unfitted for the rigours of school life ; he is a born gardener, and is now quite a good Carnation specialist. No doubt Bacon was right when he dwelt on the virtues of inhaling the aroma of the freshly-turned earth. Great care, however, should be taken that boys and girls are not coerced, and gardening made a task. It should be essentially a pastime, and it should by no means be allowed to interfere with the more active exercise so necessary for the development of health and general well-being of young children. The skipping rope should not be thrown on one side or walking neglected for girls, nor cricket and other games for boys. The hour in the child's garden should be considered as a treat, and a change from the routine of the daily work with the governess or nurse, and then even in that hour the grow- ing child should not be allowed to stoop too much, or for too long a time, and never to undertaketoo long a job. For instance, in transplanting wild flowers, which is always a delight to j'oung gardeners, they should not be allowed to dig up too many roots at once, and by leaving them to die on the ground destroy more plants than they can use. No waste of any kind should be permitted, and one set of plants should be put in before a second lot is fetched. The child, too, must be told that to hurry is bad gardening, and that each plant must be watered before the task is con- sidered properly finished. The child should be encouraged as much as possible to judge for himself as to the treatment of his plants, and when advice is given it should be in very simple language. I do think botany need be taught at first. When the interest is once ask for information of his own accord. Children are great questioners, as all parents know full well, and it is a great pity that they are so often put ott' with a stupid answer. The answer should be given very correctly, and if the child does not grasp your meaning at once he will most assuredly ask the same question again sooner or later, and the second time will understand more. But never decline to answer your child because you do not consider his mind is advanced enough. Nature arranges these matters extremely cleverly, and intends the child to take in only as much as can be absorbed. Do not give the child an inaccurate impression— for instance, when he sows his seeds he will ask eagerly when they will come up. Of course you cannot answer this for certain ; but do not reply "in a week " when it will probably take a month, for the disajipoint- ment consequent on such an assertion will be great. Children think very quickly, and time goes so much more slowly with them than it does vyith their parents, alas ! They are impatient little creatures, hence the proverbial success of the Mustard and Cress experiment. Try also to persuade your little gardeners not to pick their flowers before they are in full bloom, and give them a small pair of gardening scissors to cut them with, for there is also a right way and a wrong way of gathering flowers. I am not very enthusiastic about the village Board School teaching, but I know one school when; the instruction given about flowers is really admirable, and there is many a child of five years old in that school who knows more about flowers and their history, flowers of the garden as well as of the field, than the children of the rich men. The fruits of this training is beginning to appear in the cottage gardens round about, and the children are delighted with the gift of a plant or a few bulbs of a rarer sort. Now about the plants for the small garden. If the embryo gardeners live altogether in the country I should begin by giving them some of the earliest spring plants, and teach them that their floral year begins in February with Aconites and Snowdrops, following with a few Crocus ; but if they spend their winter in London these would be over before they would see them. In this case you might give them plants and bulbs that will flower in April — Dattbdils and blue and white Squills and double Primroses. You can take up a plant of the latter out of your border and show the child how to divide the roots. Children love Polyan- thuses and Wallflowers, yellow and orange. It always appears to me that yellow is the colour most liked by young children, particularly by boys. Perhaps this comes from the encourage- ment given to babies to pick Dandelions and Buttercups when they can only just toddle. Some children have a decided bias for blue, and in some a colour sense is absolutely lacking —and, of course, colour blindness is not very uncommon. Much can be done by early training, and your little pupils can be encouraged to plant flowers of harmonious colouring side by side. More can be taught by Nature with her paint-box in an hour than can be acquired within four walls in a year. Augusta de Lacy Lacy. WRONG WAYS OF SHOWING CARNATIONS. 1 "Kew Guild Journal."- We are requested to make it, known that in compliance with numerous requests by those interested in Kew, a few copies of the journal are this year available for purchase by non-members of the guild. Application for copies should be made to the Secretary (W. N. VVinn), Royal BotanicGardens, thoroughly awakened the intelligent child will I Kew. Price, Is. per copy ;' by post, Is. 2d, FEEL that I shall be expressing the views of a great number of the lovers of our beautiful garden flowers in the following lines, when I plead for more natural arrangement of certain exhibits of cut flowers for competition at the many shows throughout the kingdom. It is more especially on behalf of the Carnation that I make this appeal, and I wish to express, in the most emphatic way, my disapproval of the whole system of dressing the blooms, and in particular of the use of that miserable absurdity, the paper collar, so generally used in exhibiting these flowers. What could be more distressing to those who can see its natural beauty in every well-grown flower than to survey the battalions of mutilated specimens arranged in stiff rows, each with the petals flattened and arranged on a round white card with geomet- rical precision '! What chance has one of forming any opinion as to the merits of these flowers (other than colour and form of petal), or of the habit of growth or ocnstitution of the plants on which they were produced, from such mangled remains — for they are little else ? Almost the entire stalk is cut away, the calyx is split and turned back all round, and any petals that cannot be arranged in accordance with the dresser's strict ideas of S3'mmetry are ex- tracted, while those that are left are pulled about and arranged, like slates on a roof, for the absurd reason that this is considered necessarj' before they are ready to enter for a '■ full-dress" competition. Now there may be a certain number of enthusiastic growers of this lovely flower who delight thus to exhibit and make ridiculous the results of their skill and untiring care, but I think the majority of exhibitors do so simply because they are obliged to, and not because such methods appeal in any way to their sense of what is artistic or beautiful. These practices are calculated to lower the standard of the Carnation by allowing such great defects as a weak stem or a bursting calyx to be effectually hidden, and I contend that the object of bringing flowers together for comparison in competition is all but defeated if such defects can pass unregarded. If the so-called show flowers are not good enough to compete for a prize in their natural form as they grew, would it not be infinitely better to leave them at home and endeavour to grow something better? But if they possess the natural beauties of form, colour, and last, but not least, scent, then why not let us see them in all their natural beautj'? One can understand that the judges have to give their decisions in conformity with the accepted rules, for they are only the administrators of the law. Public taste has not been considered, and I think I may say that most exhibitors would welcome the abolition of paper collars and tweezers, with all the little subterfuges of the dresser's art, and the substitution of a more open and unartificial method of procedure. Unfortu- nately, it is the confiding public alone who are deceived. When they see these flowers they think they can be grown in the same form as they appear on the show bench, and their disappoint- ment is acute when they come to realise that such results are only to be produced by careful manipu- lation of the flowers, which, perhaps, without the neccsaxry knowledge of the art of dressing, would be shapeless and disappointing to a degree. To whom, then, are we to look for the much- desired reform ? Are the members of the com- mittees of the different societies who arrange the shows afraid to make a change ? I cannot think that they are unwilling. Let them consider the mailer well, and for the sake of argument suppose that " dressing " wore not permitted and paper collars had not previously been heard of. Can you imagine an exhibitor bringing his flowers so decked out for the first time to a show where all the other flowers were exhibited as grown? What would be the result ? Not sufficiently encouraging to warrant a repetition of the experiment, I think. The converse of this has happened to me. I wished to enter some seedlings for certificates at X. THE GARDEN. [January 14, 1905. one of our largest Carnatioa shows, and was told that I must put up one " dressed " and one " undressed " bloom in order to conform to the rules. I have never dressed a bloom and never intend to. So I did not stage my blooms. Surely this is not as it should be. Is it contended that it is easier to judge of the merits or defects of a flower that has been dressed than one that has not ? If dressing is to be encouraged would it not be quite reasonable to allow a bloom to be entireh' manufactured, taking the best petals from numbers of blooms and placing them on the card without troubling about the calyx and such apparently unimportant details. This would call forth even more skill at the hands of the " dresser." Let us with no iincertain voice condemn, and by all means in our power endeavour to abolish these practices. Such deep-rooted customs are difficult to uproot, but a start has been made. We are gradually getting into better ways. The classes for so-called "undressed" blooms staged in threes are becoming more popular. This is a good sign and a step in the right direction ; but there is room for some reform even in the rules applying to this class of competition. Bands and ties are allowed to be used provided they are removed before the show, a little dressing of the petals is not objected to, and to all practical purposes the flowers are faked. A burster may be prevented from bursting, and a badly-shaped flower may be pulled into shape ; this is not what we want. I should not be content until all flowers are shown as they grow naturally. Let there be separate classes for show and border varieties, and by this I mean a class for those that require the protection of glass, and another class for border varieties grown entirely in the open, but in both classes let the blooms be exhibited with their stems cut long, and accompanied in every case by their own foliage. Then, and not till then, ma}' we hope that a stronger and altogether more satisfactory race of Carnations will spring up, from which we shall be able with confidence to select a collection for growing either under glass or in the open. At present the reall}' good border varieties that will thrive and give an abundance of well-formed and fragrant flowers in an ordinary garden and under ordinary conditions are only too scarce, but I think by encouraging the e.xhibition of flowers grown and shown naturally with long stems, say not less than 12 inches in length, we should soon find that there would be little room for the weak, thin-stemmed, bursting varieties, which, although perhaps very beautiful in colouring, are of little use except for exhibition in the classes where such defects can be hidden. The disappointment that is annually experienced after planting Carnations from lists of names taken at the shows where dressed blooms are encouraged must be very great. I have been told by a Carna- tion grower that the reason Carnations were so profitable was because people required new plants every year ! I think, mj'self, that more people would buy and grow them if they could rely on their surviving for a few 3'ears in their gardens. The Shropshire Horticultural Society has set a good example by ofi^ering prizes for a collection of Carnations and Picotees shown with their own foliage and buds not dressed in any way. This gives encouragement to the really sound, useful varieties which the majority of garden lovers wish to find and possess. It other societies would follow this lead we should, I think, find that a new race of Carnations would spring up. BroHwylfa, St. Asapli. W. A. Watts. NOTES ON SUCCULENT PLANTS. COTYLEDON IIOS E ATA.— Many succulent plants which used to be called Echeverias now come under the head of Cotyledon. A very desir- able species which has thus changed its surname is C. roseata, a Mexican plant of easy cultivation, which ia now beginning to produce its cylindrical flower-heads. The colour- ing is very pretty, for the leaves and flower-bracts which approach pea-green in their tone, rather than sea-green, are edged and tipped with scarlet, and, though the yellow flowers are somewhat hidden and not very showy in themselves, this vivid colouring gives distinction to the whole plant. It must be grown in full light, or the scarlet flush will not show itself to the same degree. Like all succulents it roots very readily, and cuttings from 3 inches to 4 inches long of the growing points which have not flowered should be taken every spring as early as possible. Old plants that have been well cut back may be retained for a second season, but without somewhat drastic treatment in this respect they are apt to become leggy, and cuttings grown on vigorously and placed three in a pot are often preferable. Growing plants should be placed out of doors in full sun from May to September. C. roseata does not want any great heat in winter, hut it does require light and an unshaded position in a cool greenhouse, or in a south window where it is safe from frost suits it admirably. It is a plant not often met with, but may be commended as valuable to lovers of succulents on account of its flowering naturally during winter or very early spring. Cotyledon retusa is another valuable species for winter flowering, and is much better known than C. roseata. The colouring of the whole plant is glaucous, and the heads of flowers are borne on long, leafy stems thrown well up above the rosettes of leaves. The scarlet and yellow flowers are Echeveria-like in their character ; in fact, it was formerly so classed until the generic name was altered. Both C. retusa and the nearly allied C. fulgens are Mexican plants, and it is not unlikely that C. fulgens may be merely an improved variety. My impression is that they cannot be botanically separated. C. fulgens is the finer and more vigorous plant of the two, having bolder and darker leafage, with the bloom of a well-coloured Victoria Plum on the stems and calyces of its crimson-scarlet flowers, and should be chosen in preference to C. retusa. Each rosette of leaves forma a good out- ting, which only requires to be laid on the surface of a pot on sandy soil to root freel}'. The summer treatment is identical with that of C. roseata. K. L. D. NOTES FROM THE MARKETS. NOTES FEOM COVENT GAEDEN. Flowers. DU P^ I N G the past week there has not . been a very brisk trade. Eriglish- I grown flowers continue abundant. f Chrysanthemums and Poinsettias are likely to be less in evidence, some growers having already finished with them. Lilium longiflorum was not quite so plenti- ful at the eud of last week, and prices were a little higher. L. auratum is still very good, also L. laiicifolium album and rubruni. L. tigrinum is plentiful. Lily of the Valley is abundant, but the supply may fall ofl' at any time. It is reported that the best crowns for the coming season are likely to run short, so in the near future prices may advance. Forced Lilac is very good. Long stems now being of such importance, several of the old favourite dowers, such as the white show Pelar- gonium, double while Primula, Bouvardia, itc. , do not sell readdy, and prices are much lower than they were before we had such large supplies of Liliums and other (lowers from retarded stock. Hoses. — Good English Roses are now very scarce. We have seen a few good blooms ol Liberty, but reds of any sort are hanlly procurable. Sun- rise, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Bridesmaid, Catherine Mermet, and Mine. A. Chatenay .all make high prices. Niphetos is more plentiful, but the best blooms of this command good prices. Caraalioii!! continue very plentiful. Tne American variety W. Scott is largely' grown ; the flowers are only of nioderalBsize, but aie very freely produced. Mine. Therese Franco still remains a favourite, but Miss .Joliffe is now rarely seen. Winter Cheer is still grown, but the newer American varieties receive most attention. Enchantress always sells at a higher price than any others. Mr. Datton still holds the lead as a grower of the American varieties. Among Orchids, Odontoglossum crispum and Cypripediums are plentiful, but Cattleyas still keep up in price. A good many Narcissi are now coming from the Scilly Islands, such as Soleil fi'Or, Gloriosa, Telamonius plenus, and Paper White. The suopliea from the south of France are very limited. Roses, Violets, Paper White Narcissus, and other flowers from this source have gone up considerably in price. Owing to the exceptionally severe frosts the supplies are likely to fall off even more. It ia reported that growers will experience a consider- able loss, many things being quite ruined by the frost. Asparagui pliimos^t.i is now rather short, and aa much as 6d. per spray (short) has been asked. Other foliage plants are plentiful. Frdit. Grapcx. — There seems no prospect of any imme- diate advance in the prices, and at present prices growers can hardly be getting sufficient to make profit. Good Alicante are from Ss. to 12s. per dozen pounds, Colmar lOs. to 243., but tor the latter price they must be exceptionally fine. Muscats do not fetch more than 3s. per pound for very fine samples. Pears. — It was anticipated that there would be a shortage and that prices would go up consider- ably, yet there still seems to be a sufficient supply, and fine dessert Pears may be bought from 3s. to 03. per dozen. Tomatoes. — Large supplies arrived from the Canary Islands at the end of last week in very good condition. It is the round red sorts that we now get, and in appearance they are almost equal to English. They make from about Ss. per dozen pounds ; the finest samples may go to higher prices. Bananas. — Those from the Canary Islands are far superior in flavour to those from Jamaica. From both sources they are now very plentiful. From St. Michael's we are getting splendid Pine- apples, in appearance almost equal to any English grown. They vary in price ; good fruits may be had from 25. 6 1 to 5s. each. App'es. — English are still plentiful. Good Wellingtons were oQ'ered last week at ot. fid. per sieve, and small samples at much lower prices. Cox's Orange Pippins are still to be had at moderate prices. Verv large supplies are coming from California, Nova Scotia, and other American sources. Most of these now arrive in excellent condition. Those from California packed in boxes come out without a blemish ; the Newtown Pippins are especially fine. Oranges are plentiful and cheap. Lemons, Shaddocks, Grape Fruits, and others of the Citrus family are all well represented. THE HORTICULTURAL CLUB. The usual monthly dinner of this club was held at the Hotel Windsor on Tuesday, the 3rd inst. , when Sir .John Tjlewelyn, Bart., took the chair and a good muster of members and guests assembled to hear the subsequent chat, rather than lecture, of Mr. .Joseph Clieal. entitled " Talks on a Journey to Egypt and .Syria," illustrated by numerous lantern slides. Unfortunately, the generally dry and desert character of the region traversed by Mr. Cheal detracted inevitably to some extent from its horti- cultural or botanical interest, but this element was by no means altogether absent, since the celebrated homo of the Lebanon Cedars was \ibitud, and some very interesting photographs were shown in this connexion. Mr. Cheal remarked that the generally received idea that but few remained in the original habitat of these magnificent trees waa erronetjus, since many IhousamU still remain on the Lebanon slopes in the district he visited and many also in another and distant one The chief enemy to the trees appears to be the goats, which deatro}' the seedling-', and, although steps are said January 14, T905.] THE GARDEN. XUI. to have been taken to protect them by the Turkish Oovernment, these steps are too much on the vague and uncertain Turkish lines to be of much avail. Some specially interesting slides illustrated the culture of the Mulberry tree in the silk-producing districts. Here the mountain slopes are covered with rudely- built terraces constructed of alternate banks of stone and beds of soil, in which the trees are grown in rows and kept cut so hard back as to be little more than standard bushes. The white Mulberry appears to be the prevalent kind, only a few of the red variety being grown for dessert purposes. The Date Palm is another and very important staple, and it has been said that a single Palm will support a man by its produce, it being, however, borne in mind that the needs of the man in question are orientally meagre. Locust trees, a splendid specimen of the Banyan, antique and weird Olive trees, huge Opuntias with pseudo leaves as big as tennis bats, Bougainvilleas of most luxuri- antly rampant growth, steeple-like Cypresses, and an extremely curious tree called the Cucumber Tree, with long. Cucumber - like but hard and leathery fruits suspended on 0-feet to S-feet stalks, were all figured on the screen, intermingled with Oriental landscapes and scenes embracing camels, Arabs, ancient rock inscriptions, primitive ploughs, native methods of irrigation and cookery, &o. , and finally a swarm of locusts covering the ground and the herbage thereon like a veritable insect blizzard. An interesting fact in connexion with the extremely rude methods of irrigation in vogue, consisting of wooden wheels with loosely attached earthen jars suspended by rough cordage, was that several attempts had been made to improve this by modern machinery, but all in vain, for the reason that no facilities existed for inevit- able repairs of iron work, while the primitive apparatus could be always and immediately repaired on the spot by the natives themselves at compara- tively no expense. Some views of Jerusalem and other places mentioned in Holy Writ were also shown, and, as Mr. Cheal's visit was connected with some mission work in Syria, he was able to accompany their exhibition with many interesting remarks. No discussion followed the lecture, since Mr. Cheal had invited those present to make any desired remarks as he proceeded. A very hearty vote of thanks was accorded to Mr. Cheal for his welcome contribution to the pleasure and instruction of the club. LATE NOTES. National Sweet Pea Society.— It has been arranged to hold the 1905 exhibition in conjunction with the Royal Horticultural Society at Vincent Square on Tuesday, July 4. Upwards of £90 is offered in money prizes, and Messrs. Sutton and Sons are presenting a silver challenge cup, value 15 guineas, in Class I., the society giving the winner a gold medal as a permanent memento of success. The schedule will be in the hands of all members by the 14th inst. The "Sweet Pea Annual" will be published one week later, and will be sent free to members. Full particulars on any matter connected with the society will be gladly furnished by Horace J. Wright, 32, Dault Road, Wandsworth, London. Historic trees uprooted in Scot- land.— A severe gale which swept over the greater part of Scotland on the evening of the l29th ult. and the morning of the 30th ult. did great damage to trees in almost all parts of the country. It was exceedingly severe in the Forth and Tay districts, and some trees of historic interest in the Alloa district suiTered very severely. This was at Alloa Park, the seat of the Earl of Mar and Kellie, whore two out of three enormous Beeches, called The Sisters, and whic-h are believed to date back to the time of Queen Mary, were uprooted. A large Chestnut, which tradition says was planted by Queen Mary, was also greatly damaged, and many other fine trees were either blown down or damaged. From all parts come accounts of damage done to trees, shrubs, and greenhouses, as well as other buildings. Fruit growing in tlie Blairgowrie district. — From the annual returns which have just been compiled it is estimated that the total nett tonnage of fruit despatched from this district in 1904 amounted to about 1,200 tons, an increase of about 200 tons on 1903. At the annual meeting of the Blairgowrie and Rattray Fruit Grower' Asso- ciation, held at Blairgowrie on December 24, the statement of returns submitted to the meeting and accepted showed the following results: Straw- berries, 24 tons 9cwt. 41h., realising £369 Ts. 4d., an average of about 15^. 7d. per cwt : Raspberries, 384 tons locwt. 5lb., realising £10,659 143. 4d., or an average of about £1 Vs. 8d. per cwt. The previous evening the Stormont Fruit Growers' Association held their first annual meeting at Blairgowrie, when it was reported that 18 tons IScwt. 5Mb. of Strawberries, and 179 tons 2cwt. 13jlb. of Raspberries had been sold. The Straw- berries realised an average of 18s. lOd. per cwt., and the Raspberries 27s. Sd., the gross amount for the former being £356 6s. 9J., and for the latter £4,958 Si. 5d. The following average prices for Raspberries secured by the Blairgowrie and Rittrav Association since 1895 are worth recording : 1895, 31s. ; 1896, 161. ; 1897, 31s. 6d. ; 1898, 38^. .3J; 1899, 31s. lid. ; 1900, 20s. SJrd. ; 1901, 20j. 3d. ; 1902, 223. 3id. ; 1903, 263. 6d. Potatoes rotting when stored. — Students taking agriculture as one of the subjects in the final examination for the degree of B. Sc. at the University of Leeds are required to spend at least six months on the University Farm, where each must conduct an experiment on some agricul- tural subject and present a report on the same. The pamphlet on the decay of Potatoes during storage embodies the report presented by Mr. R. C. Gaut at the examination held in June, 1904, and recommended by the examiners for publication. The report is divided into two parts, the first of which should be of interest to farmers, and the second more especially to those who are interested in fungology. The vitality of seeds.— It is popularly credited that seeds taken from Egyptian tombs have, when planted, sprouted abundantly ; one example of corn seed springing up after a repose of 3,000years is universally quoted. Gilbert White mentions one of the slidders or trenches down the middle of the Hanger at Selborne known as the Strawberry Slidder, which was covered close with Beeches near a century old. Strawberries once abounded there, " and will again when the obstruc- tion is removed." When old Beech trees were cleared away White noticed that the naked ground became covered with Strawberry plants, " the seeds of which must have lain in the ground for at least an age." Some time ago it was found that seed taken from a British tumulus near Dorchester, and specu- latively 1,600 years old, grew up into Raspberry canes and fruited, the Raspberries being publicly exhibited. Similarly, four or five Beans takeofrom a mummy case and planted (some ten or fifteen years ago) came up. Four Beans sprouted, two lived and grew into plants, and one is still alive, but has never flowered. The pods resemble those of the Carob tree, presumed to be the swine husks referred to in the Bible. These Bean seeds must have been over 1,000 years old, as the tomb from which they were taken was undisturbed. The Px,ev. W. R. Burgess, in 1865, saw several relics unearthed at Whittlesey, in Cambridgeshire, in the clay under the peat. Their age was undisputed, and they were possibly a relic of the remote time when Whittlesey was an island. One of these relics was about a peck of Mustard seed. The seed was thrown to the surface in the process of excavation, and next year " there was such a crop of Mustard as seemed to show that nearly every seed had germinated." — Iri«h Times. Mr. Bunyard on fruit culture.— Mr. George Bunyard gave the members of the Maidstone Farmers' Club some valuable practical advice in a lecture on fruit culture recently. He strongly emphasised the importance of packing and grading on the Continental system. On the Continent fruit is collected from the different farms and placed in a central store. There it is properly graded, and the purchaser always knew what he was buying. It was such combination, Mr. Bunyard said, that enabled the growers to keep prices up. Speaking more particularly of Apple culture, tho lecturer instituted a comparison between British and Colonial fruit. He said the latter is better suited tor dessert on account of its peculiar sweet- ness, and he therefore threw out the suggestion that the home grower should pay more attention to producing good kitchen Apples. This is a new point which seems to call for further inves- tigation, partly scientific and partly practical in character. Mr. Bunj-ard rather suggests that wo are labouring under a delusion when we speak of our finer sorts of Apples as being the best in the world. "I maybe but, a poor judge," says a writer in a Kent county paper, ' ' but give me an English Apple for preference. If there is anything to beat, say, a Cox's Orange Pippin, all I can say is that I have never yet come upon it." Grants by the Board of Agricul- ture.— The annual report of the Board of Agriculture on the grants made by the Board in aid of agricultural education and research has been issued. The tardiness of its appearance is more than compensated for by the enhanced fulness of the report. These grants have all sprung up since the present Board came into existence some fifteen years ago. In the year 1903-4 the general grants ia aid of educational institutions include £1,000 t» Cambridge University ; £1,000 to the South- Eistern Agricultural College, Wye, Kent ; £800 to University College, Reading ; £300 to the British Dairy Institute, Reading ; £.300 to the National Fruit and Cider Institute, Somerset. The whole of the grants amounted to a total of £9,200. An addi- tional £650 is awarded in the form of special grants for experiments and research. A Rose show in Australia. — Originally fixed for October 21, the annual spring show of the National Rose Society of Victoria was threatened with failure, and the committee wisely decided to postpone the exhibition until the follow- ing week. The Rev. Canon Godby, one of the most prominent of our select but rapidly increasing com- munity of rosarians, did not exhibit, being the first time in twenty-four years that this celebrated grower has failed to stage his favourite flower. The Roses, if lacking in brilliancy, were even as regards quality, and combined to form one of the most charming flower shows ever seen in Melbourne. There was ample room for a large number of visitors to move about, and yet the hall was well filled with exhibits. The ordinary flat tables were discarded in favour of terraced stands, with black cloth backgrounds, on which every one of the many hundred blooms was shown to the best advantage. Rose-covered arches were a feature of the decora- tive attractions. The director of the Melbourne Botanic Gardens, Mr. W. R. Guilfoyle, through the foreman, Mr. G. Cooper, staged a generous display of decorative Roses, and the Carlton Gardens were also well represented. — Melbourne Leader. Fashion in gardening.— Now we have learnt the better ways, and have come to see that good gardening is based on something more stable and trustworthy than any passing freak of fashion. And though the foolish imp fashion will always pounce upon something to tease and worry over, and to set up on a temporary pedestal only to be pulled down again before long, so also it assails and would make its own for a time, some one or other point of garden practice. Just now it is the pergola and Che Japanese garden ; and truly wonderful are the absurdities committed under the name of both. But the sober, thoughtful gardener smiles within himself and lets the freaks of fashion pass b3'. If he has some level place where a straight covered way of summer greenery would lead pleasantly from one quite definite point to another, and if he feels quite sure that his garden scheme and his environment will be the better for it, and if he can afford to build a sensible structure, with solid piers and heavy Oak beams, he will do well to have a pergola. If he has travelled in Japan, and lived there for some time and acquired the language, and has deeply studied the mental attitude of the people with regard to their gardens, and imbibed the traditional lore so closely bound up with their XlV. THE GARDEN. [Jaxuaky 14, 1905. horticultural practice, and ia also a practical gar- dener in England — then let him make a Japanese garden, if he will and can^ but he will be the wiser man if he lets it alone. Even with all the know- ledge indicated, and, indeed, because of its acquire- ment, he probably would not attempt it. When a Japanese garden merely means a space of pleasure ground where plants, natives of Japan, are grown in a manner suitable for an English garden, there is but little danger of going wrong, but such danger is considerable when an attempt ia made to garden in the Japanese manner. — From Elgood's "Some Un/j'txh G'ardens" Transplanting- trees at night.— It has long been known that budding trees, wlien transplanted in the evening, are more likely to thrive than those moved in the daj'time. A French expert has gone a step further, and claims that distinctly beneficial results can be gained by transplanting in the dead of night. He has trans- planted large tracts without losing any by the adoption of this method. Trees, he aays, should not be moved while their buds are too tender, and the work should be done between 9 p.m. and 2 a.m. The roots should be covered with earth which has for several da3'8 been exposed to air and light. This should be settled by copious watering, and not by pressure of the feet. For the first two weeks after moving, the boughs and leaves of the trees should be thoroughly sprinkled. SOCIETIES. UOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. There was a small display of plants and flowers at the Royal Hurticaltural Hall, Westminster, on the 3rd inst., but this was to be expected so early in the new year and in Buch bad weather. Orchids were splendidly shown, a f^old medal, and the Lindley medal fur good culture, being awarded to the group of Cypripediums shown by Captain Holford. One plant carried no less than twenty-four flowers. A feature of the exhibition was a group of the beautiful Euphorbia jac(iuini;crtora from Lord Aldenham's garden. The slender, drooping shoots were hidden with the small orange-red flowers for a length of 2 feet, and the dark green leaves on either side made an admirable setting. Several Orchids, a Chrysanthemum, an Apple, and a Pear obtained awards of merit. Floral Committee. Present : Mr. H. B. Jlay (chairman), Messrs. C. T. Druery, J. Hudson, J. Green, J. Walker, G. Nicholson, J. A Nix H. J. Jones, G. Reuthe, C. E. Shea, C. R. Fielder. C. Dixon^ W. Howe, H. J. Cutbush, R. C. Notcutt, C. E. Pearson, W. P. Thomson, E. H. Jenkins, and W. J. James. Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, set up a pretty group of alpines and hardy plants generally. Some of the more interesting were Iris histrioides, with azure -blue flowers ; Galanthus cilicicus, a true winter-flowering Snow- drop ; Crocus hyemalis, while ; Sternbergia fischeriana, rich yellow ; Iris Histrio, Primula megasefefoUa, Galax aphylla, Shortia galacifulia, rich crimson leafage, &c. Jaaminum Dudiflorum and Cedrus atlantica aurea were both cood, while there were also excellent clumps of Christmas Roses, which always claim attention. Silver Banksian medal. Lord Aldenham, Elstree, Herts (crardener, Mr. E. Beckett), Btaged on the floor a most beautiful lot of Euphorbia jac- quiuixflora, with a background of Palms. The brilliant floral bracts of the plants in axillary clusters on the archiu" Btems were very beautiful. The plants attracted the atten*^ tion of all; they were splendidly shown. As examples of good pot cultivation they reflected the greatest credit on Mr. Beckett. Silver Floia medal. Messis. James Veitch and Suns, Limited, Chehea, con- tributed quite an interesting lot of flowering plants, in which we noted Moschosma riparium, a white-flowered greenhouse shrub from South Africa; Jacobinia chryso- Btephana, with orange-coloured heads of tubular flowers- and Coleus thyrsoideus, together with charming baskets of the Begonias Julius, Ag^tlha, and Agatha eompacta. A gruup of Gesnera exoniensis, with rich ciimson velvety leaves was also noted. Silver Banksian medal. ' A group of pot plants and cut sprays of Moschosma riparium came from Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley Cultural commendation. A group of plants of Chrysanthemum Market Gold a late variety, was shown by Lord Aldenham, Elstree (gar- dener, Mr. Beckett). The plants are 4 feet high, and bear many flowers of a rich golden-yellow ; very serviceable at this season. Chrysanthemum Lady Belper came from Lord Helper I>erby (eardener, Mr. W. H. Cooke). This is a very flue pure white flower, with drooping florets, the flowers borne on stilf and long stems. We regard it aa excellent for late work Messrs. W. Wells and C.>., Limited, Redhill, contributed a few ChryBanthemums ; the single yellow indicum, with a profusion of its flowers ; Treasure, single yellow ; Dorothy Fortescue, single white, with tubular florets 4 inches long ■ and Mrs. Filkins, of the spidery section. ' Camellia kelvingtoniana, semi-double, with scarlet and white flowers, was shown in the cut state by Messrs Paul and Son, Old Narseries, Cheshunt. It la very handsome Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton, filled a long table with groups of put plaLits, aa Pteris Childsii, a prettily crested Fern ; Camellias, as Donkelaari flure-plena, rubescens, and Chand- leri ; Primula kewensis, and other plants. Silver Flura medal. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Enfteld, had groups of Cycla- men Low's Salmon, a free, showy kind, with rosy salmon flowers, very pleasing and effective. The new Sniilax (Mediola aspar;igoides myrtifolia) was also shown with vases of Cycla- men in distinct colours. An award of merit was given to Chrysanthemum Market Gold, which is described under " New and Rare Plants." Orchid Committee. Present : Mr. Harry J. Veitch (chairman), Messrs. James 0 Brien, J. G. Fowler, de B. Crawshay, J. Wilson Potter, W. Boxall. J. W. Odell. W. H. Young, H. A. Tracy, A. A. McB-an, G. F. Moore, H. T. Pitt, J. Charlesworth, Richard G. Thwaites, Francis Wellesley, Jeremiah Colraan, H. Little, and F. W. Asbton. A gold medal and the Undley medal for exceptionally good culture were awarded to Captain Holford, Westonbirt, Tetbury (Oi-chid giower, Mr. Alexander), for a splendid display of Cypripediums. The plants, which included many of the best varieties, were finely flowered. They were given plenty of room, so that each plant could be distinctly seen. There were some 4.'d0 flowers open, the best plant having twenty-four. This was C. leeanum giganteum. !Many of the plants carried eighteen to twenty flowers, and well deserved the Lindley medal, which is given only for special culture. A feature of the group consisted of numerous different varieties of C. Euryades, all obtained from the same seed pod. Particularly well coloured and bright were C. nitens superbum, C. leeanum giganteum, C. insigne purpuratum, C. Tityus, C. leeanum Reeling's var., C. insigne sanderianum, C. G. F, Moore, C. charlesianum superbum, C. J. F. Huwes, and others. An award of merit was given to C. alcibiades, which is described elsewhere. Lieliaautumnalis Westonbirt variety, with its rose-purple flowers, Lrclia anceps, and Sophronitis grandiflora made beautiful bits of colour, and Oncidium tigrinum, with its rich brown and yellow flowers, was very striking. The opinion was freely expressed that no finer plants of Cypripediums had been seen at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society. Messrs. Cypher, Cheltenham, showed a group of Cypri- pediums that contained many beautiful sorts. Among them were C. insigne sanderianum, C. i. Sander;u, both valuable yellow varieties; C. i. Harefleld Hall, with large, heavily spotted dorsal sepal; C. nitens, C. n. superbum, C. Kascinator, a delightful rose-purple tinge prevailing ; and C. Mme. Jules Hye. Trichopilia suavis was well shown, and some varieties of Lajlia anceps, too, were exliibited. Silver Flora medal. The rich orange-yellow, crimson-tipped flowers of La?lio- Cattleya Charlesworlhii (the result of a cross between Ladia cinnabarina and Cattleya aurea) from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heaton, Bradford, made a charming display, and were quire a bright feature ia the almost deserted hall. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, exhibited a small group of Orchids, among which were Cattleya Trianre Alpha, Cypripedium ilme. George Truffaut (Stonei x ciliolare), C. nitens magnificum, C. Dauthieri (albino var.), C. leeanum var., Mrs. Clinkaberry, and others. Vote of thanks. Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, exhibited several very good Cypripediums, notable ones being C. rothschildianum (the scape bearing three flowers), C. lucienianum, C. virginale, C. exqui-itum, C. insigne rubens, and C. Helen II. (a hybrid between C. insigne Chantinii Lindeni x bellatulum). The new Orchids are described under "New and Rare Plants." A cultural commendation was given to Lord Rothschild, Tring Park, Herts, for a splendid inflorescence of Phalrenopsis Aphrodite. Botanical certiflcates were given to ^Erides ortgiesiana and Dendrobium eiiflorum, shown by Mr. F. W. Moore, Botanic Gardens, Dublin, Fruit and Vegetable Committee. Present : Mr. George Bunyard (chairman), Messrs. James Cheal, James Gibson, S. Mortimer, Alex. Dean, Edwin Beckett, Horace J. Wright, J. Willard, W. Poupart, George Keif, and Owen Thomas. Some very g-tod Grapes of the variety Black Alicante were shown by W. Shuter, Esq., 22, Belsize Grove, Hampstead (gardener, Mr. J. Armstrong). They were grown within three miles of Charing Cross, and were very interesting on that account. Several new Apples and Pears were shown, but only two obtained the award of m^rit ; they are described elsewhere. A Pear called Winter Williams (a cross between Williams' Bon Chri^iien and Beurr6 Bachelier) was shown by Messrs. Veitch of Chelsea. It should prove a good late sort. It is almost exactly like Williams' in flavour. A Bpediiiig Potato wag sent by Mr. B. Ashton, Lathom Park Gardens, but did not obtain recognition. THE NATIONAL POTATO SOCIETY. At r fnlly attended meeting of this society, held at the Horticultural Club, by kind permission, on the r4h inst., among other milters agreed to was the holding of next autumn's exhibition of P'themcms. These plants have made wonderful strides in popular favour during the last few years, and it is not saying too much to give some credit for this to Mr. William Sydenham, Tamworth. He has raised and introduced many new sorts, numbers of them being great improvements in colour and freedom of flowering, and having a long season. Mr. Sydenham issues a special list of these early-flowering Chrysanthemums, and we would advise those who value beauty and brightness in their gardens during September and October to study it- Few flowers are more useful for cutting than these. TooGooD's Garden Seeds. This Arm's garden seeds have long been famous for their good quality and cheapness, and we are reminded of them by receiving Toogood's annual list of garden seeds. The best flowers and vegetables are described, and many ar© illustrated. IMany sorts of Potatoes, Tomatoes, Peas, Beans, &c., are described. There is plenty of choice for the moat fastidious. Seed Potatoes. The catalogue of seed Potatoes of approved merit issued hj Mr. William Deal, Brooklands, Kelvedon, contains some interesting reading about the newer Potatoes. Mr. Deal says : " My lib. tests for cropping, each pound cut to ten sets, came out in the following proportion and order, and from these tests, added to the larger breadths under field cultivation, I have formed my conclusions as to their respective worth." Mr. Deal got 3S\lb. from Hitrhlander and 37Mb. from Diamond. From Northern Star and Vermont Gold Coin 291b. were dug. Royal Kidney with 28Ib. and King Edward VII. with 241b. were next. Mr. Deal's list contains prices, descriptions, and illustrations of all the leading sorts. Greenhouses, Boilers, Ac. The catalogue issued by Messrs. Pearce and C-o., the Nortfe London Horticultural Works, Oil, G4G, and OlS, Holloway Road, N., points out to amateurs and others who may favour them with their orders, and who may desire to fix the greenhouses themselves that special care and attention are paid to the selection of all materials used, and that the workmnnship is of tlie best. Each section is properly marked and numbered, so that it can easily be re-erected in a few hours. All glass sent with each house ia cut exactly to- required sizes ; the angle pieces for ends are cut, fitted, and' marked before packing. They call special attention to this,, as most amateurs not possessing a diamond find it a great inconvenience, besides annoyance, in not being able to com- plete the greenhouse without being compelled to call in & skilled workman. Publications Received. ** Quarterly Record of the Royal Botanic Society of London and Journal of the Royal Botanic Gardens Club," " Fundamental Principles of Plant Breeding," by Lutlier Burbauk ; "LaGrelfe et la Taille des Rusiera," "Notes on. the Commercial Timbers of New South Wales" "Bulletin, of the Department of Agriculture, Jamaica," "The American Journal of Science," and " Bulletins of the New York Agricul- tural E.x:periment Station." Cat.\logues Received. Srrds, Bulbn, Fntit Trees, and lioscs.— The King's Acre Nurseries, Limited, Hereford. -Srcf/s.— Messrs. William Paul and Son, Waltham Cross; Fisher, Son, and Sibray, Limited, Handsworth, near Hheflleld; W. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, N. ; R. Sydenham, Tenby Street, Birmingham ; John Peed and Son, West Norwood ;, James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea; W, ,\.tlee Burpee and Co., Philadelphia; John Forbes, Buccleuch Nurseries, Hawick ; E. P. Dixon and Sons, Hull ; Little and Ballantyne, Carlisle ; Rowntree Brothers, Chelmsford and London ; Dobbie and Co., Rothesay, N.B. ; Stuart and Mein, Kelso, N.B. ; Dickson's, Chester; Cooper, Taber and Co., South- wark Street, S.E. ; and F. C. Pomerencke, Altona, Hamtturg, C/t7vifi(iiitJiemu}n^. — W. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate. Nurseries, N. Trees ajid Shrubs.—J. Backhouse and Son, York. ^fe>L s-n©- GARDEN -^?= -^K>- No. 1731.— Vol. LXVII. January 21, 1905, ON SHELTER FOR TENDER PLANTS. THE wise man, undoubtedly, is he who cuts his coat according to his cloth, but in gardening matters nothing is harder to do. With such wealth to choose from as we have in these days of flowering shrubs and perennials, bulbs and alpines, for every pur- pose, there is really no excuse for any of us to attempt to grow tender plants which lie beyond the range of our climate or means of protection. Yet some perverse little demon of imprudence will perch upon our shoulder and tempt us to try this or that lovely thing of more than doubtful hardiness in our own gardens, which perchance we may have seen flourishing in Italy or the South of France. On the other hand, nothing venture, nothing have, and if we avoid all such risks we may miss great gains. What h9.s to be guarded against in our climate is not cold so much as the disastrous efi"ect of alternate damp mildness, which forces premature growth, and frost, which as prema- turely cuts it off, with perpetual changes of wind. The northern counties hold some advantage in this respect over the southern, for usually the alternations are not so rapid, and, on the whole, winter is winter while it lasts. Permanent shelter in the way of belts and groups of hardy trees and shrubs is essential to every garden, but we do not realise the value of temporary wind-breaks as we might. Large quantities of Russia bast mats are imported into this country every year, and for certain purposes cannot be superseded ; but several layers of these are indispensable if severe frost is to be kept out of cold frames, or when tender shrubs have to be protected. Straw, or, still better, reed mats, being much thicker, are more serviceable than bast mats for providing shelter, resisting frost and wind more effectually, and letting off heavy rain as readily as a thatched roof. These mats are light and portable, can be easily rolled and unrolled, and when out of use can be set up on end and kept dry-stored without difficulty. Any intelligent English labourer can be taught to make them, and the material is not hard to obtain, therefore it is profitable winter work for unemployed hands. Such mats can be used to cover the lights of cold greenhouses and frames, or propped up with poles slant- ways against walls to shelter tender climbers which often suffer more from damp trickling down and lodging about their branches than from frost, or they may be readily set up round any choice half-hardy shrub in the open which requires protection. Spare lights for leaning in front of wall shrubs cannot, perhaps, be improved upon as they give light as well as shelter ; but these are seldom out of use, and reed mats answer every purpose (save that of light), and can be removed and replaced with the greatest ease, as occasion requires. For small plants it is a rough and ready way to turn a round market basket over them bodily ; while a light mound of coal ashes or even a handful or two of leaves over the roots of many rather tender plants— such as Dahlia Stools, Lobelia fulgens or Salvia patens — wil keep them quite safe and happy through even a hard winter. These precautions, however, .should be taken in good time, before frost has had a chance to get into the ground. It is often a great protection to let the withered stems of herbaceous plants remain through the worst of the winter, but it gives an air of neglect and unkemptness to the borders which few gardeners care about. We are apt, too, to forget that tender plants are safer, though they may not grow quite so luxuriantly, on the north side of a wall or border than on the south, where they are more liable to sudden and hurtful changes from frost to sunshine. In a new garden, before one realises either its capabilities or its limitations, it is wise to try all sorts of plants, but after a fair trial it is wiser still to discard all such as are too tender to give real satisfaction out of doors, however desirable they may be. Of course where such accommodation is possible, nothing is more delightful than the shelter of glass, either on a large scale for the protection of winter flowering Rhododendrons or other shrubs, or in the form of the modest alpine house, which can be made to yield more real enjoyment than many a more ambitious structure. HARDY FRUIT CULTURE IN TUBS. Tenants' Fixtures. If a person plants a fruit tree in his garden it becomes the property of the landlord, unless an agreement in writing is obtained before planting ; but if the trees are in tubs they belong to the tenant, and can be taken any- where, or sold if he so desires. The tubs should be made of lasting material and fairly capacious. The best kind of tubs to use for this purpose are those made by Messrs. Champion and Co. They are very durable and handsome, and may be had m various sizes. They will withstand much rough and wet weather, which is a great advantage. The best kind of trees are the dwarf standards, and Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries may be so grown. Many people are using Bay trees in tubs imported from the Continent to furnish their courtyards and terraces. These trees are rather expensive, and must have some shelter provided in winter ; but fruit trees may remain outside all the winter, and if the right kinds are selected there is no question about the success. And what a chance is here afforded for the experimentalist who wishes to study the effect of difi'erent systems of manuring. The cultivator obtain.s. full control of the trees, both root and branch, and the experimentalist may grow quite a number of trees in a comparatively small space. This is just the work that the amateur- gardener would delight in if he once made a beginning. Suitable holes must be bored in the bottom of the tubs, and 3 inches of drainage should be placed in the bottom. The best compost would be two-thirds good turfy loam, and one-third a mixture of old manure, bone-meal, wood ashes, and old plaster or mortar. The three last- named substances would be used at the- rate of half a bushel each to each cubic yard! of loam and manure, the whole to be well mixed together. Well-furnished and well- shaped trees should be selected, and the spring is a good time to begin. Anyone- wishing to try the efi'ect of a few tubs of fruit trees in the courtyard may order in the tubs and furnish them at once. 1 think they will be better on free-growing stocks, say, Apples on the Crab and Pears on the free stocky because we shall have full control of the roots. Free-growing, bright-coloured Apples will have the best appearance, and we must study effect in this matter a little. If a good selection of varieties were made, and the culture of the trees carefully attended to, many a garden terrace or walk near the house might be brightened considerably. Fruit trees in tubs have an advantage over flowering plants, for besides being very attractive when in blossom, they are of economic value when in fruit. The following will be useful kinds of Apples for tubbing : Worcester Pearmain, Beauty of Kent, Bismarck, Pomona, Gascoyne's Scarlet, Lane's Prince Albert, Keswick Codlin, Mfe^re du Manage, Newton Wonder, Peasgood's Non- such, Stirling Castle, Wealthy, Orange Pippm, Lady Sudeley, Ribston Pippin, and Allington Pippin ; Pears Doyenn6 du Comice, Louise Bonne of .Jersey, Marie Louise, Pitmaston Duchess, Beurre Superfin, and Durondeau ; Cherries May Duke and Late Duke. K Hobday. 34 THE GAliJJE^'. [January 21, 1905. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interestingplants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instruc- tive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, London. The Blue-flowered Coleus. From Bicton, Devon, Mr. .J. Mayne sends flowers of the beautiful blue-flowered Coleus, one of the most valuable winter-flowering plants under glass. He also sends the following cultural notes : " Blue flowers are none too plentiful in winter, and Coleus thyrsoideus is well worth growing where a night temperature of 6C can be maintained from October to February, their time of flowering. The plants should be carefully watered or they soon lose their bottom leaves. After passing out of flower shorten back the plants to within 1 foot of the pot, and place them on a shelf near the glass roof, affording but little water, and as soon as the young shoots are 3 inches long they may be taken off with a bit of old wood attached and dibbled into 4-inch pots of light sandy soil, placing half a dozen in a pot. In the propagating case they soon make roots, and can then be potted ofl' singly into ^J-inch or o-inch pots. A night temperature of 60" will suit, and the little plants must be placed near the glass. As soon as long enough take off the tops again and insert, treating as before. This may be repeated till the end of May. The later- rooted plants are much sturdier, and flower equally as well as the earlier. If rooted, say in March, they get so tall by the middle of .July and lose many of their bottom leaves, whereas by rooting during May the plants keep much sturdier, and can be grown in shallow pits or even ordinary garden frames from the end of .June until the end of October if fairly mild weather continues. The growths must be pinched early, say at the second pair of leaves, and the shoots emanating therefrom must be pinched at the first joint ; four or five leading growths will result and form good plants for vases, but unfortunately blue does not show to the best advantage under artificial light. Pots 6 inches in diameter will grow them well. A few of the latest cuttings may be grown without stopping, and kept in 5-inch pots are very suitable for grouping. The usual compost used for the handsome-leaved Coleus suits the blue-flowered Coleus, it requires feeding as the pots get full of roots. A stock can also be raised from seed which should be sown in April. I find the flowers last well when cut and placed in water, although the foliage shrivels a bit." Hardy Flowers from Ibelamd. From Glenarra House, Ballyvaughan, County Clare, Mr. P. B. O'Kelly sends flowers from out doors that are remarkable for this time of year. Among them are Garrya elliptica from a plani 15 feet high, Viburnum Tinus (Laurustinus) var hirta, a beautiful evergreen growing some 15 feet high and flowering for three months, Winter HeliO' trope (Petasites fragrans), double yellow Primroses, blue Primroses, and a Veronica, all of which says Mr. O'Kelly were in flower during December, Many beautiful Irish Ferns and some Saxifrages were also sent. A Showy Winter Flower. Mr. Mayne also sends flowers of Centropogon lucyanus, a valuable warm house plant that is sadly neglected nowadays. Mr. Mayne also encloses the following notes about its culture: " Among warm house plants for decoration during the winter months few are more showy than this, the soft rosy carmine flowers being freely produced. Old plants should be shortened back a little when the flowers are past their best, and placed in a light position, and as soon as the side growths are 4 inches long they should be taken ofl' with a bit of old wood attached and put in a pan of flne sand to prevent the loss of sap. The plant exudes a milky substance similar to the Euphoibias. Insert in small pots of sandy soil and keep close until rooted, which takes some time. Then pot off into '2i-inch pots and remove the point of the shoot when 6 inches high, this will generally cause young shoots from the base to push up. They are stronger than side-shoots, and carry a wealth of flowers if allowed to grow unchecked, but for pot culture they are best pinched once about ten days after they are placed in oi-inch or 6-inch pots. Old plants may be grown on for a second year, and require to be cut rather hard back about the middle of March, and repotted in 6-inch or 7-inch pots. After the middle of .June we place our plants in cold frames, shading lightly a few hours daily when bright, syringing about 3 p.m. until September, when a drier atmosphere is given to ripen the wood. This plant is useful for baskets ; the long, pendulous shoots, wreathed with flowers, are very bright during November and December. When treated thus, the shoots should not be pinched, and a mass of flower will result. A little weak guano water when the pots are full of roots will assist them greatly." NOTES OF THE WEEK. FOKTHCOMING EVENTS. .January 24. — Royal Horticultural Society's meeting. January 27. — Meeting of the Lee and Blackheath Gardeners' Society. .January 31. — Meeting of the Redhill, Reigate, and District Gardening Society. February 1. — Sheffield Horticultural Society's meeting. February 4. — French Horticultural S iciety of London meeting. February 6. — Mansfield Horticultural Society's meeting. February 7. — Sevenoaks Horticultural Society's meeting. February 8. — Sheffield Chrysanthemum Society's meeting. February 10. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund Annual Meeting. Rosa nutkaensiS.— This early-flowering species, belonging to the large family of Cinna- momea?, is one of our hardiest single Roses. It comes to us from North America. The blossoms, which appear usually the second week in June, are a delicate mauve colour, beautiful in their pure tint. There is also a most delicate fragrance perceptible. I think we should value these species more than we do, planting them in shrubberies rather than the less interesting subjects often found there. — P. A journey in British East Africa. "Nairobi is 32S miles by rail from Mombasa and 5,450 feet above sea. level, and the journey occupied 23t hours. To a stranger this is one of the most interesting railway journeys possible. On the evening of .July 2 we had a grand view of the mag- nificent mountain Kilimanjaro, in German East Africa, and I had my first experience of East African locusts the same evening, the train rushing through myriads of these locusts circling on the wing. A tew days afterwards, at the Experimental Farm, the same kind of locust suddenly appeared in the afternoon and settled on the trees, bushes, and part of the growing crops, changing by their very numbers the appearance of the vegetation to a brownish purple colour. Fortunately, Mr. Linton, myself, and several labourers were on the ground, and by means of smoke from bush fires and the quick movements of the labourers, got the locusts on the wing before any appreciable damage had been done. A nursery of introduced plants is being established on a good scale, and will be the means of disseminating 'many useful trees, c&c. Several varieties of Cotton are under trial at the farm, and the appearance of the plants, in particular the Egyptian, is promising. The Cotton expert attached to the Agricultural Department has been for some weeks now inspecting the coast lands, and has, I understand, favourably reported on the same for Cotton growing. The present and next year should, therefore, witness rapid strides in the establish- ment of a Cotton industry in British East Africa. At Naivasha, about 60 miles further up in the direction of Uganda, there is a large Government stock farm of various animals, and the operations of the Department extend over a very large area. Just now great interest is being centred in the pos- sibility of a fibre industry. I believe the soil and climate are admirably adapted for Rhea and Sisal Hemp, and labour is cheap. Settlers are arriving in numbers from South Africa and elsewhere, and altogether the prospects of East Africa for those with the necessary capital are bright. The tem- perature at the present time ranges from 85" Fahr. in the shade between 12 noon and 3 p.m. to 48° Fahr. at night. The sun is very hot in the afternoon, but the nights are cool, and the early mornings quite chilly. The climate is not as trying as that of the West Indies, and the absence of mosquitoes in the Nairobi District is something to be grateful for. The country is generally adapted for stock- raising and dairying. The cows around Nairobi yield fair quantities of milk, and excellent butter is made. As a game country East Africa is con- sidered hard to beat." — H. Powell, in Kew Guild Journal. Greenhouse plants for winter flowering. — Barleria flava is one among the many Acanthads that flower during the winter months ; indeed, at this season the different members of the order Acanthaceie are strongly represented in any list of flowering plants under glass. The species under notice forms a specimen of rather sturdy growth that is, perhaps, seen to the best advantage when grown as a dwarf plant about 1 foot high, and crowned with a cone-shaped head of bracts from which the golden - yellow flowers protrude. As with the Aphelandras they do not individually last long, but a succession is kept up from one head for a lengthened period, added to which it is a plant of easy culture. This Barleria is a native of India, and was introduced from there in 1816, but it is not often met with. A second species — B. cierulea or strigosa — is some- what in the same way, but the flowers are decidedly larger and of a beautiful shade of sky blue, a most uncommon lint among plants now in bloom. It is also a native of India, but of more recent introduc- tion than the preceding. The fact that nearly all flowering plants are now considered with regard to their suitability for cutting from is probably the reason that the many beantiful Acanthads are not more often grown in gardens, as the temperature of an intern)ediate house rather than a stove is best suited to their requirements. — H. P. Roses on terraces. — One cannot con- ceive a more picturesque feature than a series of terraces witli the margins draped with the glistening foliage and fragrant-blossomed Rosa wichuraiana. If variety were desired then R. wiohuraiana rubra, a delightful Rose, could be mingled with the type. Its foliage is a bright grass green, which it inherits from one of its parents. Crimson Rambler. This one is about the latest to bloom, nearly all of the hj'brida emanating from R. wichuraiana flowering early in June. I would strongly urge the importance of thoroughl}' digging the border in which the Roses will be planted, double digging it if necessary. A little wise application of the knife will control any unruly growths that these prodigious growers may put forth, and it often iletracts from the beauty of the plants when there is a tangled mass of shoots. No one should miss planting the lovely Alberic Barbier and Rene' Andre, and the newer kinds, such as Edmond Proust and Elise Robichon, are all good. — P. Gardening" in Perak.— In the "Kew Guild Journal" Mr. .J. W. Campbell writes from Perak, Federated Malay Stales: "After a very pleasant voyage lasting four weeks, I arrived at January 2I, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 35 Penang on May "26, and proceeded to my deati na- tion— Taiping, Perak — the following morning. The journey from Penang to Taiping takes about four and a-half hours by rail, and ia full of interest. The ground in places along the line is swampy, and I saw some fine patches of Nelumbiura in full flower; they were a beautiful sight. My headquarters here are on the Larut Hills, at an elevation of 3,500 feet. I am favoured in that respect, as the climate is delightfully cool compared with that of the plains below. From the bottom of the hill to my bungalow is a walk of seven miles through jungle. It is full of interest all the way. One cannot but admire the fine timber trees, many without a branch for over 100 feet up, and perfectly straight. There are also many fine specimens of Palms, numerous Ferns, Selaginellas, &c. All round my bungalow are Tree Ferns and Nepenthes. Lantanas are as common as Brambles at home. The blue Ageratum, which grows here about 2 feet high, is very pretty, but it is an awful nuisance as it grows everywhere on this hill. It was intro- duced, I believe, by Sir Hugh Low. Browallia elata is going to be common here also, having escaped from cultivation and coming up every- where. On the hill plantation we go in for raising English vegetables. Manj- of them do well and are much appreciated by the European residents." Apple Fenn's Wonder. — This hand- some Apple, to which an award of merit was given at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society's fruit committee, is not unlike Mite du Manage and HoUandbury in form. The chief objection to the variety Mire du Menage is that its colour is more often that of Beetroot than red, whereas that of Fenn's Wonder is scarlet, and heavily striped on a yellow ground. It emanates from the gardens of Henham Hall, Suffolk, the seat of Lord Stradbroke, and Mr. Simpson, the gardener, mentions that it is grown there on the Crab stock and fruits well, even in years when Apples are scarce. When an Apple shows such fine form, rich colour, and free-cropping qualities in the Eastern Counties, it is natural to look for equally fine results, even if not better, in more favoured localities. It should make a superb Christmas shop Apple. — A. D. The Mezepeon. — Considering how hardy Daphne Mezereum is, and the beauty and sweetness of its flowers, it is far too rarely seen in shrub collections. It may be that many do not consider it hardy. This Daphne makes but little display as a bush in summer, as it does not branch much, and its leaves are small, but when spring comes is when it cheers us. It is almost the first shrub of all to flower, and its perfume is so sweet that it betrays the presence of the plant before it is seen. There are three varieties of it. The red is the normal form, I believe, and there is a white and also a double form of the white. Nicholson mentions an autumnal flowering variety, but this one I have not seen. In addition to its use for its flowers, this Daphne findsfavour with many nurserymen as a stock for the little evergreen spreading sort, D. Cneorum, tor which purpose it answers well, stimulating a stronger growth than would be had on its own roots. Daphne Mezereum is readily raised from seeds ; the seeds ripen in late summer, when the flesh should be washed off them, and the seeds kept in slightly damp soil or sand, in some quite cool place, and be sown outdoors in the early days of spring. Those with greenhouse facilities would find it better to sow indoors in boxes in March or earlier. It remains to be said that the red berries displayed in summer are considered very attractive. — Joseph Mepihan, in Florists' Exchange. Pear Santa ClaUS. — It was probably a somewhat unwise act on the part of the Royal Horticultural Society's fruit committee to give an award of merit to a Pear having just recently been given the above name, because it may be found ultimately to have a quite different name after all. On the other hand, whatever may be the name, it is a very meritorious Pear, and has considerable excellence in midwinter, when really good Pears are scarce. Colonel Brymer, who sent it to the Horticultural Hall, mentions that it came originally from Belgium, and has been grown at Dorchester in what he characterises as a rather dark corner for thirty years, by which description it is fair to assume that the variety originally had a name, and, still further, that the fruits were very good indeed for a dark corner's production, and should be much finer and better if grown on a more open aspect. The fruits in shape greatly re.iemble those of Beurre Diel. — A. D. "Le JaPdin."— The eighteenth volume of Le Jardin, a journal published fortnightly in Paris, has been dedicated by the editor, M. Henri Martinet, to M. Albert Truffaut, the widely-known Versailles nurseryman, to whose eSbrts we owe the introduction of many good plants, e.g , Adiantum versaillense, several Crolons, Vriesia Mariaj, and Dracrena truffautiana. Fine fopms of Ipis stylosa.— The fine form of this most delightful winter- blooming Iris sent you by Mr. Caparne, and mentioned on page 2 of the 7th inst., is doubtless I. s. vir. pavouina sent to me some years ago by Messrs. Dammann of Naples with two other broad-leaved and strong- growing forms named respectively I. s. lilacina, with large, very pale lilac flowers, and I. s. mar- ginata, with flowers of a deeper shade of lilac, margined with white. I received last autumn from another grower another Iris named I. s. pontica, but from its totally different habit of growth I do not think it belongs to the stylosa branch of the family at all. Its flowers also are comparatively poor and dull in colour. — W. E. GUMBLETON. The Pypaeantha.— A specimen of this growing on the Manor House, Byfleet, Surrey, is worth going miles to see. It covers a space of some 30 feet by 15 feet, and although I have come across plants as large as this one, I have never seen the quantity of berries on the same space. There must be thousands of them, and in some places the laterals are so thickly packed as to form a solid mass of colour. The effect is very fine ; it is, indeed, impossible to find anything more im- pressive in the outdoor garden at this season of the year. The soil is light, and the drainage is good, as the Manor House stands on a gentle eminence, so that the growths get well ripened, and there is not that over-luxuriance that is apt to characterise this Crataegus when growing in heavy land. Mr. Brown, the gardener, makes a practice of pruning annually in February, the result being that the whole of the space is covered with a dense mat of deep green, lustrous foliage, which shows the rich colour of the berries to the greatest advantage. — J. Cornhill. Shputas that flowep in January.— The number of trees and shrubs which blossom naturally in January is greater than many suppose, and some are decidedly showy ; they form a very interesting collection worthy of inclusion in every garden. Probably the finest of all are the Witch Hazels (Hamamelis), of which H. arborea, H. japonioa, H. j. var. zuccariniana, and H. mollis are grown. Then come the early-blooming Heaths (Ericas), which are represented by E. lusitanica, a tall shrub with white flowers, and the two dwarf ones E. carnea and E. mediterranea var. hybrida, both of which have reddish blossoms. Of the former there is also a variety with white blooms. Of the Honeysuckles there are two, Lonieera fragrantissima and L. Standishii, both of which are fragrant white-flowered Chinese shrubs. Chimonanthua fragrans and the variety grandiflora are both in blossom, bearing fragrant cream and golden flowers respectively. Rhododendron dauricum is conspicuous by reason of its pretty rosy purple blooms. Daphne Mezereum var. grandiflorum is in flower, while the flowers of the type are just beginning to expand. Arbutus Andrachne still bears many flowers which have stood for some weeks. The Laurustinus, Viburnum Tinus, is smothered with open flowers and buds, while walls are made gay with the golden flowers of Jasminum nudiflorum. Here and there the tiny white star-shaped blooms of Spirtea Thunbergii are beginning to open, while, if the weather is mild, blossoms may usually be found on Prunus davidiana towards the end of the month. Occasionally this list can be lengthened, Berberis japonioa and Cydonia japonica among other things sometimes being in flower in .January. Those previously men- tioned, however, are the most sure, and with the exception of Prunus davidiana all are to be seen in blossom at Kew at the present lime (.Januarv 7) — W. D. Potatoes at Wisley.— When persons presumably familiar with the conditions under which alone Potatoes can be dealt with by the fruit and vegetable committee of the Royal Horti- cultural Society continue to send samples to the Horticultural Hall for the committee's opinion, it ieeras evident that they are very anxious to give the variety such publicity as the meetings and Press reports afford. Very good Potato trials commonly resulted at Chiswiek, but far more efficient ones may be looked for at Wisley, where the soil is of very diverse texture and more retentive, the surroundings open and airy, and entirely free from those vitiated conditions which had grown up around Chiswiek. It may be unwise to expect too much from the Wisley soil at first, as without doubt it had become materially starved under the lack of culture which for some time before it passed into its present hands had existed. Liberal manuring is a matter of absolute need to restore to the ground that nutriment so essential to crop production, and manure is costly to obtain. Still, there can be no doubt that a good area of ground will be deeply worked and well manured, so that Potatoes in particular and other products in general may have a fair trial. That there will be sent in, as in the past, many seedlings there can be no doubt, but the council of the society would do well to purchase a few tubers of some ten or twelve of the more recently introduced varieties, especially those which have been so highly lauded, and grow them beside some older ones of good reputation. A trial at Wisley should be one of the very best of its kind in the kingdom, and its results be specially indicative of varietal merit or otherwise. No vegetable creates the same interest or is so important in commerce as the Potato. — A. D. Mapket Chpy santhemums A marked difference between the exhibition of Chry- santhemums grown for market, which was held in the Essex Hall, Strand, on the 14th ult., and the ordinary Chrysanthemum shows so numerous in the month of November, was the almost total absence in the former of flowers of an undecided tint, whereas among the huge blooms on the show stands they are far too numerous. Various subtle tints figure in their description, such as rosy pink, deep pink, lilac pink, rosy lilac, pale purple, purplish rose, and others, but in reality they all come to one level, for cultivation plays a consider- able part in the colour of the blossoms, and even where slight differences exist they are scarcely noticeable during even the brightest part of an average November day. The market grower, on the other hand, finds that the best prices are realised by flowers of a clear decided colour, hence he discards all those of a nondescript tint and grows only the best, whether old or new varieties. The finest of the market kinds are referred to in the report of the Essex Hall show (The Garden, 17th ult.), and in an article on " Flowers at Covent Garden" in the issue of the 7th inst. — T. The British Gapdeneps' Associa- tion.— A meeting to consider the advisability of forming a local branch of the association was held in the Co-operative Hall, Ipswich, on Wednesday, the 4th inst., Mr. J. Morgan, of the well-known firm of Messrs. Thompson and Morgan, presiding over a large and representative gathering of local gar- deners. In the course of his address, Mr. W. E. Close, a member of the committee of selection and a former resident in Ipswich, dwelt particularly upon the benefits which would result to employers from the establishment of a reliable source for the supply of thoroughly competent and trustworthy gardeners. He strongly urged the establishment of a local branch, and asked all those who cared for the uplifting of their profession at once to become members. After a well maintained discussion, a resolution approving the programme of the associa- tion and the formation of a local branch was carried unanimously. Mr. E. G. Creek of Westerfield House Gardens, Ipswich, consented to undertake the duties of local secretary. 36 THE GARDEN. [January 2i, 19u5. A valuable new Chrysanthemum. One of the newer Chrysanthemums, Tuxedo, is giving us great satisfaction here this season. It is a late variet}', and the bronzy old gold shade of its flowers is very distinct and good. It has been grown in pots, as well as planted out of doors during the summer months. Plants from cuttings of last year, after making their growth and being pinched back in the usual way, were lifted from outdoors in September, and planted in the vacant borders of a Tomato house, where they have flowered extremely well. This varietj' seems to be vigorous in growth, but is apparently not likely to give as many cuttings from the base as we should wish. That, however, may be an accident of culture or of the season. In this neighbourhood (East Sussex) all Chrysanthemums have been remarkably late in flowering, the season havinf» been too hot and dry for them. This has been particularly noticeable where it has been necessary to bring water from a distance — a calamity not very unusual in this district — when plants in the open ground have, in most cases, to take care of themselves, and those in pots to make the best of whatever supply they can get. — K. L. 1). Bpig-htness without flowers.— One is apt to over-estimate the value of flowers in a garden, or perhaps, I should say, to under-estimate the importance of those trees and shrubs and plants whose flowers constitute their least valuable claim to notice. There is as much beauty in the Btems and leaves of some plants as in the blossoms of others, as much welcome colouring in leafless trees and evergreens as in the choicest flowers of summer. And because they contribute to the gaiety of the garden when flowering plants are resting beneath the frost-bound, snow-capped ground, we should reckon them doubly valuable. Dull indeed is the garden during winter whose leafless trees give no bright note of colour, whose shrubs are berryless and count no rich evergreens among their number. There is beauty and bright- ness at all seasons of the year in a carefully planted garden. That it is flowerless means nothing, for the brilliant yellows and reds of bare stems, the crimson of berries, and the welcome greenery of evergreens are made doubly attractive by the contrast of dull cheerlessness that forms their setting. ^A. H, P. Commereial flower - growing in California. — In answer to the question of a correspondent residing at Fruitvale, California, regarding flower-growing as a business in Cali- fornia, the Pacific Rural Press in a recent issue replied: "You can certainly grow Carnations, Violets, and a host of other flowers successfully in the open air in your locality, and will secure very gratifying winter blooming. Orchids, however, will require careful attention to very sharp require- ments in the matter of heat and moisture, and must be house-grown, as they are at the East, except, of course, that in this climate much less firing is required. There is no comprehensive book on flower-growing in California, nor is there a special journal devoted to that purpose. Several of the latter have been undertaken, but have failed for lack of support. You will find valuable suggestions in the catalogues of the leading seed houses, which are advertising in our columns. If you intend to take the matter up commercial!}', it will be advisable to start in a small way ; learn by experience and by conference with the San Francisco florists whom you must expect to supply. Commercial flower-growing is possibly less success- ful in California than at the East, because our climate is so favourable that everyone grows flowers, and the prices from San Francisco decorators and florists are, as a rule, rather low. To find out what they want, however, and when they want it, and then adapt your cultivation as closely as you can to attain those ends, will constitute the most important things in such an enterprise." Shrubs for town gardens.— In gar- dens near a town it is best to plant trees that lose their leaves annually. Near a large town this is imperative, for the smoke and fog cover them with dirt and soon make them unhealthy. When the leaves fall in autumn, of course all the accumulated dirt falls with them, and a start is made in the spring with clean young leaves. Evergreens in a town garden, unless they are washed with a hose occasionally, have a very dismal and depressing effect, so the fewer the better if the garden is to look bright. The Lilac is a good town shrub, and there are now some very beautiful varieties to be obtained. Marie Legraye (the double white) and Charles X. (purple) are two of the best. Flowering Currants are delightful objects in spring when in full flower, and so are some of the ornamental Crabs, for instance Pyrus Mains floribunda, one of the prettiest spring-flowering shrubs. The sweet- scented Mezereon (Daphne Mezereuni) and Dier- villa (Weigela) Eva Rathke, with crimson blooms, are both excellent for the purpose under considera- tion. Then there are the Laburnum, the Guelder Rose, some of the Thorns, the Almond, Wistaria, Magnolia conspicua, and M. stellata. Of winter- flowering shrubs you may plant the yellow Jasmine (J. nudiflorum) and the Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus fragrans) ; both these should be in every town garden. — \. Z. Plants for a north border.- One of the prettiest pictures I ever remember in a garden was a wall facing due north covered with Roses and winter Jasmine, and at the foot of it a narrow border of the Japanese Anemone. The Jasmine came into bloom in February or March, the Roses came out in July, and the Anemones (pink and white) in September. Thus in an almost sunless position there were flowers at three different periods of the year. When the Roses came into bloom, one could gather blossoms until the frosts came ; before the Roses were over, the Anemones came out, and when the Anemones were over it was not very long before one looked forward to seeing the first bursting buds of the yellow Jasmine. The Roses were some of the old free-growing garden varieties, not very beautiful so far as the form of the bloom was concerned perhaps, but still they were fragrant and very acceptable. The Japanese Anemone is one of the best plants I know for a north border. Solomon's Seal, Primroses, Violets, Wood Anemones, Forget-me-nots, and some of the Lilies thrive well with very little sunshine. — Y. Z. ROUND ABOUT A GARDEN, Looking Forward. IN midwinter your garden usually bears its most plentiful crop of good resolutions for the growing year ; but unfortunately autumn was the proper time to carry most of them out. Yet, between now and spring, there is plenty of time to do many things ; and at least you can jot down in a note book the means by which you propose to remedy the various shortcomings which the bareness of winter has brought to view. The chief fault of most of our gardens is plainly revealed at this season as lack of originality in design and arrangement. It is chiefly for this reason that they look so bare and desolate. Where no attempt is made to give special character to a garden it looks just like every neighbour's garden, a bare open space of grass and gravel walks with brown flower-beds backed by shrubs. One glance shows you all that is to be seen in it in winter, and all amounts to little more than nothing. The Skeleton of a Garden. Yet there is no garden so small that it cannot be made distinctive and interesting in winter, without detracting in any way from tlie show of spring or summer flowers. There is no garden so small, too, that it cannot be made to appear much larger by breaking up its outline and partially interrupting the direct view from end to end. In a very large garden the most beautiful effect is obtained perhaps by cunningly-devised vistas which here and there give you long, straight glimpses from end to end, suggestive of infinite space of varied beauty ; but in a small garden it is the lack of space which the gardener's art should conceal by presenting diti'erent aspects from different points of view, although the.se may not be many yards apart. The main difficulty lies id laying out the paths, which bear the same relation to a garden as the skeleton of aa animal to its living frame. Primarily a garden jiath is intended as a means of going to and from the house ; and, since people who come and go are as often as not in a hurry, one cannot make the way so devious as to tempt them to make illicit short cuts. Even with a carriage drive one must not depart very far from the prosaic straight line — which is the shortest line from any one point to any other point, as geometry teaches — without producing a pre- tentious effect, and at the same time wasting much garden space which could be far better used. The Division of a Garden. In the case of the ordinary type of garden, which must have at least one drive to the front door and one footpath to the side door, the best arrangement is that these should be united during the first half of their length, and the point of their divergence be hidden from view of the house by a well-grouped shrubbery, with a fringe running up the sides of the footpath all the way to the side door. Thua the garden is naturally divided into three parts, one which is visible from the gate, anotlier through which the carriage drive curves behind the shrubbery to the front door, and a third, which is privately hidden from view by the shrubs that conceal and shelter the footpath throughout its length. Having thus three separate spaces to deal with, differing entirely in aspect, shape, and shelter, one has infinite opportunity for variation, which is the very life of gardening for pleasure. A Pleasaunoe. It is an especial advantage in thus laying out a garden that the secluded part, shut off by the fringe of shrubbery by the footpath, v/ill always be of irregular shape and compara- tively long and narrow. With a meandering path and alcoves where you can rest it can be filled with interest from end to end, no two nooks and scarcely any two yards of the flower-borders being alike. Here you can grow all kinds of rare and graceful plants which require shelter, and here in earliest spring and latest autumn you will look for welcome hardy plants blooming in defiance of the seasons. Here, from whatever quarter the wind may blow or the sun may shine, you will know quiet recesses of shade and shelter where you can sit in peace from all the world watching the birds. Nooks for all sorts of Beauties. Here, too, it is easier in the narrow space to devise rock-banks and descending paths where mountain plants and Ferns will flourish, and by placing supports for Creepers wherever there is room beside the wandering path you can have all the beautiful effect of a i.>ergola with- out its stiff' artificiality ; it is, moreover, only in such narrow sheltered ways that you can plant any large variety of flowers in the grass, because in any large space the grass, being necessarily left unraown where the flowers are sprinkled, produces an effect of untidiness for which the beauty of the blossoms scarcely com- pensates. Where, on the other hand, the grass only fills small nooks and bays, now on one side and now on another of a winding path, between arched and pillared creejiers and groups of sheltered shrubs, with flowering plants and Ferns, you have ideal sites for January 21, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 37 clustered bulbs and roots whose flower-gems shine all the brighter for the green setting of the grass. Indeed, so valuable is this narrow section of a garden, partly from its sheltered privacy against all winds and unwelcome in- terruptions, and partly from the infinite variety of small gems of plants which you can place there for their individual beauty — a beauty too delicate or minute, often, for display in the open flower borders of the outer garden — that before long your attachment to it grows until a sort of distinction comes to be observed regard- ing it. The rest of the garden, it will be tacitly understood, belongs more or less to the gardener — this is your very own. As the expert in producing floral displays he will have more or less of a free hand with the outer flower-beds ; but in the little garden pleasaunce that you love he will not dare to stick so much as a trowel into the ground without express instruc- tions from you as to the exact inches which each new treasure is to occupy. E. K. R. August. It flourishes at an altitude of 6,000 feet on the Sierra Nevada chain of California, and is considered by many to be only a form of canadense, but distinct from it in its character as a garden plant. Collectors who have seen colonies Howering in a wild state are loud in its praise, and it is evident that culti- vated specimens have not attained the highest development possible for them. For culture and uses see pardalinum, to which this plant is closely allied. (To he continued.) THE LILIES. (Continued.) C~~ "UM PARRYI (Watson).— Dr. Parry's long-tubed Lily. A very beautiful yellow - flowered Lily from Cali- fornia. It was for a long time lost to cultivation, and even now is rarely met with in gardens. The bulbs are small and com- posed of a few jointed scales in the form of a rhizome ; the stems 3 feet to 4 feet high, pale green, _ slightly rooting from their bases, the leaves alternate and lance-shaped, and the flowers yellow, broadly funnel- shaped in outline, the upper third of each petal reflexing, and slightly spotted inside with purple, or quite unspotted ; very fragrant. They vary from 4 inches to 6 inches in length, and are borne on long pedicels and poised at right angles with the stem. A unique Lily as regards colouring and dainty shape. Rare in cultivation. Flowers in July. Discovered near San Gorgonio Pass by Dr. Parry 4,000 feet above sea-level in a cool, moist climate. This plant had the misfortune to be described as a marsh Lily early in its history as a garden plant, and successes in its cultivation have been few and far between as a result of this treatment. It prefers a root-run of peat and a cool, fairly moist situation, and if slightly shaded so much the better. It succeeds well amid Ferns in the hardy fernery and other cool but not wet places. L. parviflorum. — See parvum. L. parvum (Kellogg). — The sma 1 Panther Lily. A very dainty, free-flowering plant, the mostgraceful of all the Western Lilies, and worth every care to establish. The bulbs are small and in the form of scaly rhizomes, the scales 3-jointed to 4-jointed, yellowish white, the stems 3 feet to 4 feet high, more rarely 6 feet, slender, the leaves numerous and lance-shaped, and the flowers are borne on long foot-stalks, coloured orange red, dotted yellow, the reflexing tips a rich red ; they are 2 inches to 3 inches across, and from ten to twenty appear at one time. It is common in cultivation, and flowers in NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS HARDY CYCLAMENS. EVERYONE is familiar with the greenhouse Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicuni in its numerous varieties), but comparatively few are well acquainted with the beautiful hardy Cyclamens that are so suitable for planting in the rock garden, the border, or wild garden. If planted in a suitable position they will almost take care of themselves. Other stronger growing plants must not be j allowed to encroach and rob them of light and i These latter are only fit for clothing the soil under trees or for covering bare spaces in an easy manner, which, as the subject of the present notice, can be associated with the choicer occupants of the rockery. It forms a thick mat of bronzy foliage at all times attractive, but especially so in the winter time, when most things have lost their verdure. In light soil that does not get close and sour this Acsena increases fairly freely, and will soon cover a square foot of ground ; but in heavy soil it is apt to take on a rather miserable appear- ance, and under such conditions is not worth a place in the garden. When the natural staple is rather retentive plenty of leaf-soil or some peat should be added, which will keep it in a sufficiently open condition to allow of the free formation of underground stems. Byjleet. J. C. PENTSTEMON BARBATUS TORREYII. Of the several parennial Pentstemons grown in the flower garden there is little doubt that this is one of the best. Unfortunately, it proves short-lived on heavy soils if left in the open during winter, so that to ensure a stock it is necessary to divide up the old roots in the autumn and place them in pots or boxes. We have to treat our plants in this way : They are put out annually at the beginning of April in a thorougaly open position, with the A BORDERING OF CYCLAMEN REPANDHM BY A GROUP OF PLANTAIN LILIES (FONKIA). moisture. They do excellently beneath the partial shade and shelter of shrubs or large growing plants, as the illustration admirably shows. A fairly moist soil and a position sheltered from cold winds and midday sun may be said to form the essentials to their successful culture. The Cyclamen shown in the illustration is C. repandum, more familiarly known as C. hederasfolium. The plants are in the garden of Mr. R. Dimsdale, Ravenshire, Lechlade, Gloucestershire, to whom we are indebted for the opportunity of figuring them. C. hederasfolium is a good autumn-flowering Cyclamen ; it is at its best in September and October. It is a native of the Southern Alps and the Apennines. The flowers of the type are rosy purple and faintly scented. There is a white variety which blooms even more freely than the type. Y. Z. ACJiNA MICROPHYLLA. There is something very taking about this little species. When in the full enjoyment of conditions that promote luxuriance it onlj' just rises above the soil, differing in this respect from other members of the family, which run up to a height of several inches, and are more or less of lax habit. result that the spikes reach a height of between 5 feet and 6 feet, and flower almost from the ground. I have seen the flower-stems fully 6 feet high. A correspondent recently remarked, when comparing this plant with P. barbatus, that the flowers were "a washed-out red, quite pale and unattractive," but this description of the colour seems somewhat erroneous to me. The colour is a reddish salmon, and a very desirable one, as there are few plants with flowers of a similar tint. I have never found P. Torreyii to be less vigorous than P. barbatus,. and the former certainly flowers more freely than the type. P. Torreyii is seen to the best advantage when planted in a group, and the pleasing, distinct colour is always welcome. A. E. Thatcher. MIMULUSES. To grow these successfully seed should be sown early in January on fine sandy soil in shallow pans, and these should be placed in a comparatively cool house, where the seed will soon germinate. In a few weeks there will be hundreds of strong seed- lings to lift and prick out into pans or shallow boxes, and in these they would be ready to pot up singly, and, if desired, early in April or by the middle of the month be planted on a cool border outdoors, where they will on good ground produce 38 THE GARDEN. '"January 21, 1905 a most brilliant mass of flowers, and will present features of beauty such as few other flowers give. The seed should be sown thinly, and if the seed- lings are well hardened before planting out so early the foliage may get a little discoloured, but late frosts do little or no harm. Sutton's Giant and Rosy Morn are excellent varieties, and well adapted for beds or borders. T. B. Field. ALPINE WALLFLOWEK. (Cheieanthvs alpinus.) This alpine Wallflower makes a brave show when in bloom, and is one of the best things one can use for a dry bank, or for any position where plants are exposed to great heat and drought. The soft yellow blossoms, when produced in great profusion, as is the case with established plants, are very effective. Like its near relatives, the garden Wallflowers, it dies away in time, and therefore needs renewing or should get attention in some form. The best way is to put in a few cuttings every season. They strike freely in the open ground in March, so that old, ugly, long-stemmed plants can be done away with. Like other members of the family, this Cheiranthus cannot live happily in heavy ill-drained ground. The roots have a tendency to run down deeply, and if they come, during the resting time, in contact with stagnant moisture decay sets in, and the plants take on a miserable appearance. Byfleet. C. hardened by parching winds, and it provides a certain amount of warmth to the roots, which is helpful. THE ROSE GARDEN. THE DECLINE OF CONTINENTAL NOVELTIES. CONSIDERING the natural resources of the Continent it seems remarkable that so few really first-class Roses are now received from there. Take the Hybrid Perpetuals, with the exception of Frau Karl Druschki and Commandant Felix Faure, nothing startling has been sent out during recent years. And may not the same be said of the Hybrid Teas and Tea scented ? I am afraid our Continental friends are sacrificing everything to mere fashion. Decorative Roses are the rage, so everything must be set aside for them. If the Hybrid Perpetuals and true Teas were looked after, I imagine they would yield as good novelties as of old. M. Fernet Ducher adheres to the Hybrid Tea, and some grand novelties have come from him, but why does he not subject the Hybrid Perpetuals to his hybridising skill? It seems to me the craze for Hj'brid Teas, with their abundant blossoming, but far too frequent absence of fra- grance and brilliancy of colouring, will bring about a revulsion against this race, and buyers will demand the Hybrid Perpetuals, where all the good qualities of a Rose, save free autumn flowering, are to be found. PLANTING KOSES. At this season of the year the land is frequently very wet, and planting is done at great risk to the falure success of the plants. If the ground has been trenched, as it should have been quite a month ago, plant as soon as the surface is dry. Do not plant Roses when the ground is sticky. The plants will take no harm if they are heeled in — that is, if the roots are put in a hole or trench and covered with soil. They may remain thus until February or JIarohif needful, but I do not advocate this. In planting take out holes 1 foot square and deep enough to allow the junction between bud and stock to be buried an inch deep. The roots of standard Roses should be about 6 inches below the surface ; it is best to place the supporting stake in position before planting the tree. Long shoots are best shortened. Put a little fine soil on to the roots first, then tread firmly. Firm planting is very essential, ilanure must not come in con- tact with roots when planting. After planting a little well-decayed manure is spread over the surface. This prevents the ground from bscoming PROTECTING TEA ROSES. It does not take long to draw 4 inches or 5 inches of soil over the crowns of bush Tea Roses just similar to the process of earthing up Potatoes. Bat no one would neglect to do this if they appre- ciated its importance. When hard frosts come the tops may be cut, but the eyes beneath the soil are plump and sound. Of course with frost-cut branches we do not obtain the large bushes they do on the Riviera, but at least we save our plants, and they break up from the base with wonderful vigour. Some dry leaves scattered on the ground after the earthing up are helpful, but I would not advocate other litter being used unless frosts are very severe, and then it should be perfectly dry. Heather or Gorse make first - rate protective material. Standard Teas are more liable to injury b3' frost. Their heads may be filled with dry Fern or Gorse, and thus protected would pass through an ordinary winter unharmed, but in very cold districts I think it is best to dig up the trees and lay them in under a north wall. If a few boards or thatched hurdles are placed obliquely over them during the coldest spell they will remain uninjured, and may be replanted in April. RAMBLER ROSES THE FIRST SEASON AFTER PLANTING. It seems a rash thing to cut down the fine growths of the free-growing Rambler Roses the spring following the planting, but all expert growers are agreed that this is the correct treatment. I do not say cut down close to the ground, but about a foot from the base. A new growth is the result, springing from low down, and a well-furnished base to the plants is thus provided. The next season little or no pruning is done, for now we look to the new growth, which should be well ripened in order to provide the flowers, so that there is no special advantage in procuring very long growths to the plants ; rather see that the roots are good and the growths sturdy and well ripened. It is very important to provide a good root- run for fast- growing Roses at the commencement. A hole 3 feet deep and 2 feet or 3 feet wide is none too large. The soil is thus well broken up, and an oppor- tunity is afforded to provide drainage if needed. The same soil may be returned if in gojd condition, incorporating with it some well-decayed farmyard manure and bone-meal, the latter about a 6-inch potful to a barrowful of soil. Climbing Roses, whether on arches, pillars, or walls, need rrourish- ing by the aid of liquid manure during the summer. Drainings from the cow-yard or shed are as good as anything, but. if not available, a small tub placed in an out-of-the-way corner can be converted into a manure tub. Put in three or four spadefuls of cow manure and till with water, allow it to remain two days, then appi}' it to the plants neat and copiously. After the second filling with water renew with fresh manure. A small bag of soot thrown into the tub is also of much benefit. Crimson Rimbler thus treated will yield those glorious trusses of rich-coloured flowers which only healthy, well-nourished plants produce. High feed- ing and a plentiful supplj' of new well-ripened wood is the secret of success with the Rambler race. P. TREES AND_ SHRUBS. THE PHILLYREAS. A MONG the many evergreen shrubs that /% are in a general way ignored, or almost / \ so, by planters must be included the / \ Phillyreas, which are certainly worthy £ \^ of more attention than is usually given to them. They are not particular as to soil or situation, provided a reasonable amount of drainage is ensured, while the plants are naturally of neat growth, and the deep rich green of the leaves is always pleasing. Added to this their merits as flowering shrubs must not be passed over. Except P decora (P. vilmoriniana) a strong family likeness runs through the whole of them, th ju^'h niinor points of difference are very common. The "K-!wHinil List" names four species, viz., P. angustifolia, P. decora, P. latifolia, and P. media, whereas Loudon, in referring to the genus» says: "All the kinds in cultivation are nothing more than varieties of one species." Which view is correct is at least an open question, for when Loudon wrote the distinct P. decora had not been introduced, and of the other three species individual plants or varieties approach each other very closely. All are native-i of the Mediterranean region. Those usually regarded as species are P. angustifolia, which aerives its name from the small narrow leaves. This will attain the height of 12 feet, and as much through, though in width, stature, foliage, and other particulars individuals v.uy a good deal. P. latifolia, as a rule, is more upright and compact in habit than the preceding, while it is also readily distinguished by its broadly ovate leaves. P. media, in general appearance, is about midway between the two preceding. P. decora is of recent introduction compared with the others, and has only been in cultivation here for about twenty years. It forms a free-growing shrub of a, somewhat spreading habit of growth, but whather it will attain the same heightas the others time will prove. At present, however, such does not seem, likely, for an isolated specimen some 4 feet or 5 feet high will be usually twice that in diameter. The leaves of this are much larger than those of the others, being from 4 inches to 5 inches long and well over an inch wide. Their colour is a deep green, but the surface is less glossy than in the smaller leaved forms. This is worthy of con- sideration from a flowering point of view, as the white sweet-scented blossoms, though small, are freely borne in axillary clusters towards the close of spring. These Phillyreas may be propagated by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots taken about midsummer and placed in a close frame shaded from the sun till rooted. T. SUNBURN. The following notes are confined to sunburn in hardy deciduous trees and shrubs, and will be of interest to your readers after a perusal of Mr. Dallimore's summary of trees and shrubs with coloured foliage. There are many highly orna- mental subjects, more particularly those with golden and variegated foliage, that lose much of their beauty and effect owing to their leaves being scorched by the sun's fiercest rays. The result is an ugly browning of the affected foliage, and is, in the more serious cases, followed by premature fall of the leaf, as in the Golden Sycamore (Acer Pseudo- platanus Worlei) and Ulraus campestris Louis van Houtte. Gardeners are sometimes at a loss to know where to place a subject so as to obtain for it a position in which the plant will develop to the greatest advantage, and there are amongst those affected by light of too great intensity many that we can ill afford to do without in the garden, either as specimens or for massing, so that positions should be selected for them where they would be shielded from the midday sun. Hence the enumeration of those trees and shrubs that most commonly suffer from sunburn will serve as a guide to intending planters. In some few instances, /. < , the golden and variegated Oaks, the second growth in July and early August obliterates, to a large extent, the burnt and unsightly foliage on their first or spring growth. Varieties of the same species exhibit widely different degrees of resistance to sunburn. This is well illustr»led in varieties of the common Syca- more, Acer Pseudo-platanus foliis albo-variegatis (the olfl variegated form) does not burn, or but slightly, whereas the varieties Leopoldii and Worlei are often disfigured. Especially is this the case with the last-named. Below is a list of those subject to sunburn, pre- viously mentioned varieties being omitted : — Platanus aoerifolia Siittnerii, Sambucus (cana- densis?) aurea, S. raoemosa plumosaaurea, Corylus January 21, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 39 avellana aurea, C. maxima atropurpurea, Fagua eylvatica alba marginata, Fraxinus americana foliis variegatis, Castanea sativa aurea marginata, Acer Pdeudo-platanu3 Nizeti, Diervilla japonica D. Looz- mansiiaurea, PhiladelphusRoronariusfoliiaargenteo- variegatis, Neillia opulifolia aurea, Ulmus Dam- pieri aurea, ^iculus Hippocaatanum foliis aureis variegatia, and -D. H. foliis argenteo-variegatia. The above ia not intended aa a complete liat, and many are purposely omitted because their liability to sunburn is only alight. Knapp Bill, Surrey. F. H. Matthews. THE FLOWER GARDEN. CARNATION iHIS, the GEORGE IMAQUAY. THIS, the best of all white border Carnations, was raised in the garden of Mr. William Robinson, who wrote of it : " At the time we compared it with all the whites known, and found it much more vigorous and better." It has all the qualities of a good border Carnation, it is a splendid grower, a profuse bloomer, never bursts, and has erect, stout stems. )Such as Trojan, Wild Swan, The Briton, Ptarmigan, and others are inferior to it. THE DRYAS A PROSTRATE shrub grows over the rocks of our mountains. Its branches, outspread and closely pressed against the stone or soil, have a remarkable character of bright, fresh beauty. It is the pretty Dryas, admired by all who see it, even by those who have no special botanical or horticultural enthusiasm. Swiss Tea is the name given it by the mountaineers of the Vaudois Jura, because they use it for the pre- paration of an infusion that has digestive and stomachic properties. Dryas octopetala is the prettiest of our alpine Rosacese, for its low bushes, covered with shining, dark green, prettily-toothed leaves, that are silver- white underneath, have a distinctly ornamental value. It has, besides, large, handsome, and numerous flowers shaped like those of the wild Rose, with eight to ten pure white petals surrounding a bunch of golden yellow stamens. The flowers succeed each other all over the leafy cushions throughout the summer and into the late autumn. Even in seed it is orna- mental, with its pretty feathery tufts that stand up like those of the Pulsa- tilla. D. octopetala is found upon most of the mountains of the northern hemisphere, at from 2,500 feet to 3,000 feet ; it likes rocky places, and especially limestone, though it is also found on the granite, but here it is less beautiful. It abounds upon the glacial moraines, sometimes reaching an altitude of 9,000 feet." Its congener and near relative, con- sidered, indeed, to be only a variety, is D. lanata (Stein), so named from the silvery pubescence on the upper sides of the leaves, which in octopetala are always smooth and glabrous. It is also distinguished by other characters, especially by the leaves being smaller and less deeply toothed, and by the form of the flowers being more globular. In gardens D. lanata flowers from May till winter, for a longer time even than the type, and its seed is rarely fertile. It must have limestone, succeeding only on rocks of a calcareous nature. D. lanata grows in the Tyrol, and especially on the central Dolomites. Two other species of Dryas are known, and both are in cultivation ; they are D. Drum- mondi (Rich.) and D. integrifolia (Vahl), a synonym of tenella of Pursh. D. Drummondi grows in the mountains of Eastern Siberia and Northern and Arctic America. The leaves are slightly pubescent and greyish green, not so deeply toothed as in octopetala, and a little longer and narrower. The flowers are small, drooping, with yellowish petals. A much less beautifitl species than ours. D. integrifolia comes from Greenland, mountains of the United States and Canada. It forms low, quite cEespitose tufts, covered with leaves that are shining on the upper sides, and are much like those of D. octopetala, only that they are much smaller, narrower, and almost without denticulation. The stamens are bright yellow and shorter. It is rare in cultivation, being more difficult to grow than the three others. All the species of Dryas like full sun, rock, and a spongy soil formed of the decay of leaves. Leaf-mould and sand, with one-third of loara, is what suits them best. They are easily grown from seed, and may also be increased by division, by layers, and by cuttings. Floraire, Geneva. Henry Correvon. DWARF GUNNERAS. The name Gunnera ia usually associated with those majestic members of the family which corae from Chili and the higher elevations in Brazil, namely, G. chilensis and G. manicata. As might be expected, when taking into consideration the geographical distribution of the genus, which, although essentially belonging to the southern half of the hemisphere, ia spread over a considerable area, representatives being found in Australia, New Zealand, the Malay Islands, South Africa, South America and adjacent islands, as well as in Mexico, the various species show a great range of variation. In contradistinction to the well-known giants above mentioned, the genus in New Zealand is represented by a number of dwarf creeping plants, some of which form dense carpets of deep green foliage, barely an inch or two high. Plants similar in growth belonging to the same genus are also found in the extreme southern portion of South America as well aa on the adjoining islands. Of the half-dozen apecies of Gunnera in cultivation the firat to be introduced waa the South African G. perpensa as long ago as the year 1688. This apecies is not hardy, and has orbicular leaves, somewhat resembling those of the Winter Heliotrope (Petaaites fragrans). Nine species are found in New Zealand, and of these three are now in cultivation. They are : — G. arenaria, of which seeds were received at Kew in the year J895, from Mr. T. Kirk of Wel- lington. Several of these germinated the following spring, and soon made good-sized tufts of numerous fleshy, glabrous leaves, scarcely more than 1 inch in length. These are somewhat ovate in shape, with dentate margina. Amongat the leaves are produced the inconspicuous flowers on short, stout stems, followed by spikes of pretty crimson berries just raised above the foliage. This plant, which is alao known under the name of G. densiflora var. depressa, is found on sand dunes in both the North and South Islands. G. dent'ita ia a swamp-loving plant, found only on North Island at an elevation of 1,000 feet to 3,000 feet, forming large patches on wet ground. Its leaves are thinner in texture than the above, obovate in outline, with deeply incised margina. Seeds of this apecies were sent to Kew, in 1899, by Mr. L. Cockayne of New Brighton, Canterbury, and they have grown into tufts of matted creeping rhizomes. G. monoica. — This apeciea haa been in cultivation for aeveral years, and has creeping rhizomes, with reniform or orbicular leaves, less than 1 inch in diameter, crenately toothed. It is found in both the North and South Islands, growing in cool, moist situations, from sea level up to 3,000 feet elevation. The red and white spherical berriea are borne on paniclea mostly hidden between the foliage. i It ia an interesting little plant, and with the other two is suitable for moist positions in the rock garden. Seeds of G. flavida were sent with those of G. arenaria, but failed to germinate. The fruits of this are said to be very pretty, varying from crimson to yellow, on spikea 3 inchea to 4 inches high. Other New Zealand apecies are G. densiflora, with purple fruits, G. microcarpa, G. mixta, G. Hamiltoni, andG. prorepens, all of similar dwarf I habit. A BED OF THE PURE WHITE CAR>JATI0>f GEORGE MAQUAY IX MR. WATTS' GARDEN AT ST. ASAPH. 40 THE GARDEN. [Jaxuaky 2], 1905 G. magdlanica. — This South American species, which is somewhat larger than any of the New Zealand kinds, ranges in habitat from Chili to the extreme south nf the continent, as well as being found on the neighbouring islands. Plants of it were sent to Kew from the Falkland Isles, in 1895, 'by Mr. A. Linney. It is variable, some forms being much more hairy than others. The creeping rhizomes are stout, and spread freely, soon covering a good space, producing at short intervals orbicular or reniform leaves, 1 J inches to 2 inches in diameter, on petioles of about the same length. The flowers are borne on branched spikes equal in length to the petioles of the leaves, and are succeeded by red fruits. Although these dwarf creeping species are not of much value where effective plants are •desired, they are interesting enough to grow in pans for the alpine house, or in suitable positions in the rock garden, to show the contrast between the ■different members of the same genus. W. Irving. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1266. THE SWEET PEA. The Best Varieties and How to Grow Them. THE star of the Sweet Pea is still in the ascendant — indeed, it soars higher and higher every year. It is very apparent that gardeners, both amateur and professional, are at last coming properly to appreciate its unlimited utility in the garden and in the home, not to speak of it as one of the most IPOJLEA RUBRO-C.ERULEA IN THE OPEN. In The Garden, Vol. LXIV, page 266, Mr. Falconer, writing from I'lttsburgh, United States of America, says of this Convolvulus : "This grows luxuriantly in warm, sunnj' places out of doors, but I do not think your English summers are long enough !o it to bloom in the outside garden, therefore you had better treat it as an indoor vine." That this correspondent is, fortu- nately, mistaken the accompanying illustration will prove. For two years I have had this exceedingly lovely Ipomaea in the same position out of doors. It is growing close to the front door of my house, on a wall facing south-east, on which is trained the beautiful single white Rosa laevigata, which bears flowers 5j inches across. Wires are strained perpendicularly about 2 inches dis- tant from the walls, and up these and the shoots of the Rose the Ipomceis climb. Every visitor sees the flowers, which are the admiration of all beholders, their pale blue colour being exquisite and most un- common in the garden, and their size being fully 4 inches in diameter. The exceptionally unfavourable summer of 190.3, dismally cold and rainy, was much against these warmth- loving plants, but even then they were very beautiful. Last year, however, they were far more charming, growing with much greater vigour and flowering more abun- dantly. One morning forty flowers were expanded, presenting a moat delightful picture, but unfortunately a high wind made the taking of a photograph impossible. This was the greatest number produced on one dav, though twenty or thirty were often open. On the day that ithe photograph here reproduced was taken there were twenty-seven expanded flowers, seventeen of which can be seen in the illustration. Unfortunately, the fugitive blossoms last but a single day, but every morning the sight of from a -dozen to forty freshly-expanded blooms rewarded the first glance at the wall. It has always been a matter of the greatest surprise to me that so few «mploy this Ipomsei for the adornment of their gardens during the summer and early autumn. My practice is to raise the seeds in heat, and to grow the seedlings on separately in 4i-inoh pots in rich porous soil. When they are about 2 feet in height and set with flower-buds they are gradually hardened oft' and planted in the open during the last week in June. South Devon. S. W. Fitzherbert. THE MORNING GLORY (iPOM.EA RDBRO-C/ERnLEA). beautiful exhibition flowers that one can grow and show. May not some of this increasing popularity be ascribed to the good influences of the National Sweet Pea Society? Whatever the cause, the result is a matter for gratification, and the greater the vogue that is attained by Sweet Peas, the better it will certainly be for our gardens. Sweet Peas differ from all other flowers in several material points, but in none more than in the ett'ect of evolution. With the develop- ment of most flowers on the lines laid down by the florists we have seen the loss of some feature that had previously been regarded as essential. For example, many of our modern Roses, superb in form, glorious in colour, magnificent in size, wonderful in substance, lack perfume. It has been bred out of them, and while the man who fights in the exhibition arena does not deplore this one iota, the culti- vator who grows Roses for his garden and his home considers it a matter for keen regret. Something in the same direction applies to the modern Carnation, but no such charge can be maintained against the Sweet Pea. The blooms have increased in size, substance, and abundance, and they remain Sweet Peas still — fragrant, floriferous, elegant. The improvement of the Sweet Pea has been, in a sense, the work of the last quarter of a century, and it is nothing short of remarkable to see what has been done in so brief a period with such a paucity of material. For this all thanks are due to the veteran Henry Eckford, whose labours with the flower have been assiduous. Prac- tically all the best varieties of to-day show his expertness as a raiser, and doubtless will do so for many years to come. Now there are others in the field of evolution, and they are heartily welcome as long as they retain all the excellent points of the flower, the addition of desirable attributes being alone permissible. Let us, however, leave this phase of the subject, and turn to the culture of the plants. Here, again, the Sweet Pea ditt'ers from other flowers, for it is within the reach of everyone who cares to grow it. In the small town garden the plants have neither the vigour nor the flori- ferousness of those in the purer and more invigorating atmosphere of the country, but they will grow and give great pleasure and satis- faction. Nowadays many of us are, unfortunately, forced to take into consideration the question of cost in our gardening operations, as well as other things, and the Sweet Pea scores, as usual, for superior returns can be secured at a smaller initial outlay and sub- sequent cost than with any other flowering plant that can be said to have any serious claims upon us. The time and manner of sowing varies considerably, the simplest method being to sow the seeds directly into the borders where the plants are to flower. Nothing can be brought against this system, provided the soil was thoroughly prepared by mechanical working and generous manuring beforehand. It may be that the soil was worked in trenches for rows of jilants or in stations for clumps, either answering equally well if tlie plants have plenty of room for perfect development. At least 3 inches must be allowed from plant to plant, and if the cultivator can find it in his heart to thin to double that distance, so much the better for the flowers, and, naturally, the grower also. During comparatively recent years, however, it has become very general to sow the seeds in boxes or pots under glass, and il it is purposed to exhibit at the National Society's exhibition in Vincent Square, on .July 4, this practice is to be commended as it gives the grower almost absolute control over the plants from first to Supplement to THE GARDEN, January 21st. Sweet Pea. "Gladys Unwin." i Januaky 21, 1905.J THE GARDEN. 41 last. For purposes of sowing boxes about j which is rich orange-salmon ; it is a grand 9 inches in depth are preferable to those fre- I Sweet Pea. Another for which I can see a quently used, as more space is available for the glorious future is Gladys Unwin. It bears a roots to travel uncramped. The compost should close resemblance to the renowned Countess consist of three parts of fibrous loam, one part of decomposed leaf-mould, some coarse sand, and, if possible, an addition of finely-crushed charcoal, to which I find that the roots are extremely partial. The seeds should be placed 3 inches asunder and covered with an inch of fine soil made firm and level. Those who do not care for boxes in which to sow may use 6-inch pots with equally satisfactory results, allowin. Spencer, in having the same exquisitely waved standard ; the colour is the softest pink. The blooms are large, substantial, and commonly borne four on a strig. Some readers will be interested to know that Messrs. Watkins and Simpson are ofl'ering a prize of £5 .5s. for six bunches of this variety at the National Sweet Pea Society's show in July. Countess Spencer must, of course, be included, notwithstanding colour superb bright pink. A general list will be given next week. Horace J. Wright. six or eio-ht seeds to each pot. In the event of its irritating habit of sporting, and to complete sowin"' being deferred until it is considered a trio of the same character choose John rather" late the seeds should be soaked for Ingman, which is a grand rose-crimson. As twenty-four hours before sowing in warm water, far as England was concerned. Scarlet Gem - • • ' - --■' "- '■'-" •--'■ '■ "-i-:-- "f ~ f-;! — last season, but Scotland, Mr. It is imperative that the soil in the pots or boxes be kept reasonably moist, as the roots are sure to suffer it it once becomes dust dry. When the plants are 3 inches in height small twigs must be placed to them so as to preclude the possibi- lity of a recumbent position, from which it is frequently a diflicult matter to persuade the plants to grow. Keep them in the fullest light, and as closely to the glass as can be managed to ensure a stocky, sturdy growth. The best place for the pots or boxes at all stages is a cold frame, where plenty of fresh air can be given and there is no semblance of coddling.) During the time that the seeds are germinating and the young plants making progress the soil out of doors can be prepared for their reception. This is an im- portant operation, as the success of the entire work may be said to depend upon it. Whether the row or clump system be adopted is wholly a point for individual deci- sion, and though, generally speaking, the finest blooms oome from plants in clumps, aatisfactorjr results may be achieved either way. Take out a station or trench tetween 2 feet and 3 feet deep, place in the bottom a layer of cow manure and work back the soil, incor- ■porating with it some good natural manure, with a light •dressing of mineral super- phosphate and sulphate of potash. Make the whole moderately firm before planting, but imme- diately after working leave it loose and ■rough. The plants will be ready to go out as soon as the weather is favourable in April, and this •work must be carefully done, so that few, if any, roots are broken in the process. Set at least 6 inches apart, and stake at once. Per- manent stakes should be placed in position •early. Coming to Varieties •one feels embarrassed with the richness of the material at command. We have a wide range ■of colouring from which to select, and there are several excellent varieties in each shade. /Let us commence with a few of the newer ones, and give pride of place to Henry Eckford, not on account of its name, but its superb colour. far as England was was something of a failure it flourished magnificently in Malcolm of Duns producin many wonderful FAMOUS PEAR TREES IN THE CHANNEL ISLES. E are indebted to Mr. H. C. Smith, Caledonia Nursery, Guernsey, for the photograph from which the accompanying illustration was made. Doyenne du Comice is admit- edly the best of dessert Pears, just as Cox's Orange Pippin is the best Apple, so that a special interest attaches to the illustration and Mr. Smith's note. The latter is as follows : " The wall is 27 feet high, and last autumn, when the fruit was still on the trees, the effect was remarkably good ; indeed, the wall was 1 nn, V w DOYENNE DU COMICE PBAB ON AN OLD FARMHOUSE IN THE CALEDONIA NURSERY, GUERNSEY. (The wall faces west. The trees, which are 27 feet high, are grafted on the Quince stock.) flowers. If it is grown let the position be either well shaded or where shade can be readily aflbrded. For a deep coloured variety I regard King Edward VII. as easily the best. There are several fine blues in varying shades, among the most commendable being Romola Piazzani, Miss H. C. Philbrick, Flora Norton, and Mrs. George Higginson, jun. Striped varieties have not, and are not likely to attain, such widespread popularity as those of more decided hues, but two that are worthy of con- sideration and trial by those partial to these are Dora Breadmore and Unique, both of which are of excellent form and size and perfectly refined. I must not omit to mention Bolton's Pink, which I regard as one of the finest Sweet Peas in cultivation. Its glory lies in the standard whose form is perfect and quite a picture. The trees were planted ten years ago last spring. Of course, they have borne good crops for several years, but the yield in 1904 was the best we have had from them. No doubt in years to come, if nothing happens to them, we shall have considerably heavier yields, for we have other Pear trees twice the age of these that still produce good crops. All are grafted on the Quince stock ; they are still so full of vigour that we are justified in expecting many seasons' good produce. We have always found that a fruit tree remains healthy and productive so long as it can develop ; when it has covered the space allotted to it it is apt to deteriorate. We think this is always the case unless the tree covers a very large space ; then, of course, its size naturally helps it to remain vigorous." 42 THE GARDEN. [January 21, 1905 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. COxMPOSTS FOR POTTING. —Loam, according to the gardener's idea, is the top 3 inches or 4 inches from a sheep run or cow pasture, to include the turf. It is best from a clay sub-soil, and should be placed turf downwards, with alternate la}"ers of stable manure in the form of a ridge. In three or four months, or when the grass is dead, it will be read}' for use. It can be chopped down and mixed with sand and any other substance required to meet the needs of the plants cultivated. This will grow all soft- wooded plants, fruit trees, and Strawberries in pots to the greatest perfection. Draininy plant pots. — Crocking pots, to use a garden term, is very necessary and important work, and in large establishments is very often entrusted to the youngest hand. Mistakes in draining pots often lead to unhealthy plants ; the work should be carefully supervised by someone who knows how important it is. Where much potting is done the drainage materials are prepared by a boy in bad weather, and consist of broken pots varying in size from pieces several inches in diameter to small pieces the size of Hazel Nuts. Depth of drainage. — This will vary according to the nature of the plants cultivated and the size of the pots. For very small pots half an inch will be sufficient, but for common plants for bedding out in the garden one crock over the hole will be sufficient, as this crock will facilitate the removal of the plant when turned out of the pot. For 5-ineh pots 1 inch of drainage will be necessary, and other sizes in proportion. The crocks, when broken, are usually passed through sieves of several sizes, and are stored ready for use in boxes or barrels. One crock with the hollow or concave side downwards is placed in the bottom. On this is placed a layer of smaller pieces, and on top a layer of small bits. Worms in pots. — A worm in a pot is something like the proverbial bull in a china shop, though the damage done may not show itself so soon. The worm likes to work among rich damp soil, and this appears to be the reason why it is so anxious to gain admittance to the pot. A careful arrange- ment of the drainage may frustrate his efforts to gel inside. There are small wire drainage pro- 1 lectors to place in the bottom of the pot which | can be purchased for the purpose ; but the worm sometimes gains admission to the soil when young. Water-logijed plants. — This arises generally through deficient drainage, and the humble worm, by shifting the material inside the pot, is respon- sible for much of this, and the question arises how can he be kept out or forced to leave when he gets inside. When a plant is placed outside stand it either on a bed of coal ashes or over some impervious bottom, such as boards or tiles. A dose of lime water will generally drive the worms out of the pots to the surface, when they can be gathered up. The worm does not hide his light under a bushel — his work is soon noticed on the surface. More notes about worms. — It is not every plant that thrives in lime water, and in such cases other means have to be adopted. The worm is a nervous, timid creature, and when a plant is found witli suspicious little balls of loose earth on the top ihe worm is there, and may often be found by turning the plant out of the pot, by giving a smart tap on the potting bench in the act of turning it out. If the worm shows himself — which he generally does — he can be hastily grabbed. If he still hides he can be forced out by thrusting a fine wire through the soil. Value of firm pottinrj. — A loosely-potted plant is nearly always an unsatisfactory one. The growth is long-jointed and spindly, and the flowers are poor and deficient in colour. Not only hard- wooded plants, but all such plants as Chrysanthemums, Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, &c. , should be potted firmly if flowers are wanted. This applies also to fruit trees in pots — Strawberries, Pines, and Melons. Profitable Onion crop. — Prepare the land now by trenching and manuring — unless this has already been done — and leave the surface rough and exposed. Sow the seeds in boxes, thinly, under glass. Cottagers, who have no glass, sow the seeds in boxes in the windows ; the seeds will grow, and the plants be ready to plant out early in April. Set out in rows 10 inches apart and G inches apart in the rows : stir the soil between the rows often and the plants will grow fast. Some good Potatoes. — For early use, Rivers' Royal Ashleaf, Duke of York, and Sutton's Ninetyfold — the last is a heavy cropper. Puritan is also a good Potato. For main crop, at present, there is nothing better than the Factor and Sutton's Discovery. Among older varieties, Windsor Castle still holds its own. The new varieties, of which Eldorado stands out prominently, might be left alone by sensible people for a time till better known ; there are various stories flying about in some districts which require to be cleared up. Propayatinij Potatoes. — There is no difficulty in propagating Potatoes under glass the same as we do Dahlias, Begonias, or any other plant, tuberous or otherwise, but is it wise to do so ? My impression is that it is not. I have often, when dealing with new sorts, cut them into single eyes, started them in pots, and planted out when ready. And that is as far as I intend to go in for these. Forcing and continual sub-division if per- sisted in must weaken the constitution of the progeny. Brussels Sprouts. — These are still one of the best winter greens for everybody to grow. They may be had as good in the allotment as in the large garden. They require plenty of room and a long season of growth. A first sowing should be made under glass early in February, hardened off, and pricked out in the nursery bed 6 inches apart, and in May set out in rows 3 feet apart on good well-worked land. A further sowing should be made outside the first week in April. Making a hot bed. — Root warmth is very helpful to early crops. The most primitive kind of hot- bed is a trench filled with warm manure, over which a frame is placed. This kind of hot-bed is used sometimes in cottage gardens for raising young plants such as Cauliflowers, Leeks, Celery, Brussels Sprouts, and, later on. Vegetable Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers. Larger hot-beds are made above ground, and properly glazed frames are placed thereon. Rtnorating a neglected garden. — Unfortunately, these are not uncommon in the country. Fruit i trees run wild and are covered with moss and lichen, borders are overgrown by weeds everywhere. Neglected fruit trees should be treated cautiouslj'. All branches which cross each other should be cut out and long spurs thinned and reduced, but spread the work, if much is required, over two or three years, always bearing in mind that the prime factors of fertility are air and sunshine, but reck- less pruning of a crowded tree lets in the wind and chills the growth. Lime in the garden. — This is a cleansing agent of great value, and may be used freely over neglected fruit trees and gardens generally, using it on the trees when the latter are damp. Weeds should be trenched in. Box and other edgings replanted, walks turned over, and a little fresh gravel added. , In this way a neglected garden may be got into a presentable condition, though it will be several years before all is right again. Troubleiome bii'il^. — If there is any trouble with bullfinches or other bud-eating birds, dust the bushes when damp with a mi.\ture of soot and lime. This will not only keep off the birds, but it will cleanse the bark and give an impetus to the circulation of the sap. Sow earl)/ Peas and Long pod Beans on the warm border. William Hurst is a hardy dwarf variety, and is early. Gradus is better, but not quite so early. Keep ofi' the land when wet. Draw drills 18 inches apart for the very dwarf Peas, and 3 feet for Gradus. Cover the Peas 2 inches deep for the earliest crop ; later Peas may have more covering. Dust the seeds with red lead if there are mice in the garden. Tlie spraying of fruit trees to check insects will in the future receive more attention. There are numberless insecticides on the market, but there is still room for something cheap and effective. Winter dressings are useful. The best foliage plaiits for rooms are Kentias, Palms, Aspidistras, Aralias, and India Rubbers ; and useful flowering plants are Chinese Primulas, Cyclamens, tuberous Begonias, Cypripediums, zonal Geraniums, and various bulbs. Be careful with the watering pot. If a plant requires water enough should be given to moisten all the soil, and then leave it till it is dry again. Much good may be done with the sprayer and soapy water now. E. H. BEST CLIMBING KOSES FOR SMALL GREENHOUSES. Wheke the house is quite small one does not care to give up all the roof or wall space to Roses, and this is what generally happens if the usual climber.s, such as MarechalNiel, climbing Niphetos, &c. , are planted. Far more satisfactory results are obtained by using the less vigorous Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses. It is no uncommon thing to find a 7 feet to 8 feet wall covered with the ordinary Niphetos, Perle des Jaruins, Papa Gontier, Mme. Lambard, and others, and apart from their less rampant growth they are practically ever blooming. It is essential that a beginning should be made with sound, well-ripened plants, and none are better for the purpose than those known as extra sized pot plants. These may be obtained with shoots ranging from 1 foot 6 inches to 2 feet 6 inches long. The greatest success is achieved when a good border or large hole is prepared for each plant, or if it be desired to grow the plants on the front staging and lead the growths below the roof then a large pot or tub may be prepared for the plant. A small brick pit is sometimes built in one corner. This may be made any convenient height, and the brickwork hidden from view by suitable plants. Whether border, pot, or tub be used the soil should be of the best, and plenty of it — turfy loam three parts, well-decayed manure one part, a little leaf- soil, and half-inch bones at the rate of a 6-inch potful to a barrowful of compost would be a suitable mixture for Tea Roses. Drainage should be ample, as upon this being efficient success or failure mainly depends. There should be at least 6 inches or 8 inches of broken pots, bricks, stones, or other similar material in the bottom of the border or large pots, and upon this some turfy loam, grass side downwards. Fill up holes or border with the compost, providing a depth of this to about 2 feet. When the plants arrive soak the earth thoroughly, then allow it to drain for a short time, and after- wards plant. The ball of earth should be slightly pricked on the outside with a pointed stick in order to release the fine roots, when they quickly lay hold of the new soil. The soil must be pressed firmly about the roots. Little or no pruning will be needed, at least in the first season, but growths should be well spread out. Twelve splendid varieties would he Niphetos, Perle des Jardins, [ Papa Gontier, Bridesmaid, Phariaaer, Liberty, ' Lady Roberts, Mme. Hoste, Mme. Lambard, The Bride, Maman Cochet, and Souv. de Pierre Notting. P- TWELVE ROSES FOR BEGINNERS. Frau Karl Druschki, Caroline Testnut, Ulrieh Brunner, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mrs. John Laing, Charles Lefebvre, Gloire de Dijon, Mme. Ravary, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, Marie van Houtte, La. France, and Griias aa Teplitz. P. January 2], 1905.] THE GARDEN. 4a CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not respmisibU for the opinions expressed hy correspondents.) A VALUABLE EAELY FLOWERING CAMPANULA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] SI R , — The Campanula, more generally known as C. rauralis bavarica, on which an appreciative note, by Mr. J. Cornhill, appeared on page 407, is without doubt one of the most valuable of the family for general use. It is a native of Southern Europe, and is one of the easiest Campa- nulas of the whole race to grow satisfactorily in this country. In whatever site it is planted it seems determined to utilise its energies in becoming an attractive feature, and whether growing on the top of a wall, in a pocket of the rock garden, along a rough stone edging, or in a rock crevice, its profusion of lavender-purple flowers always fasci- nate the eye. It is generally at its best in the late spring, and in my garden made a pretty picture associated with a large clump of Saxifraga pyramidalis, two dozen or more of whose white, branching flower-spikes rose immediately behind the purple-blue cloud formed by the Campanula's blossoms. In the south-west this Bellflower is additionally valuable on account of its winter blooming, and it was in fine flower with me on Christmas Day. In the number of blossoms pro- duced at that season it cannot, of course, compare with its display at its earlier flowering period, but flowers of the open air are distinctly precious in midwinter, and are ever greeted with unalloyed delight. S. W. Fitzherbert. A CHKYSANTHEMUM NOTE. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — A short account of the three specimen plants that won the National Chrysanthemum Society's silver medal at Torquay on November 3 may be of CHRYSANTHEMUM MRS. T. W. POCKETT. (Japanese type. This plant had fifty blooms.) interest to some of your readers. I enclose photo- graphs of them. No. ], Mrs. T. W. Pockett, a Japanese Chrysanthemum, deep canary yellow. The plant was 4 feet high, and had fifty expanded blooms. No. 2, President Nonin, Japanese incurved, colour chamois yellow. The plant was 3 feet 6 inches high, and had forty-five expanded blooms. No. 3, Souvenir de Petite Amie, Japanese, colour pure ivory white. This is a dwarf bushy variety. The plant was 3 feet in height, and carried forty-five splendid blooms. All these plants were shown in 10-inch pots. The plants were exceptionally good, with fine healthy foliage. They were grown by Mr. Gitsham, gardener to Captain J. F. Tottenham, R.N. E. Lloyd Edwards. [We are pleased to illustrate the varieties Mrs. T. W. Pockett and President Nonin, but the photograph of the beautiful Souvenir de Petite Amie was not sufficiently distinct for reproduction. -Ed.] NEW APPLE PAEENTAGE. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I am indebted to Mr. Page for reminding me of the name of an Apple I have just recently been trying to recall to mind, Roundway Magnum Bonum. This variety is undoubtedly too large for ordinary dessert, although it is delicious when nicely baked, but it has the merit of being much the best-flavoured large Apple in cultivation. It is this variety I would suggest to any who may wish to embark further in the experiment of raising new, rich-flavoured dessert varieties, that they should employ both as seed and pollen parent in conjunction with Cox's Orange Pippin and others of high quality. A grave mistake was made when so worthless a variety, so far as quality is con- cerned, as Peasgood's Nonsuch, was employed as either parent, even with Cox's Orange Pippin, for it has proved to be so largely dominant that whilst producing a pretty progeny, these have entirely lacked flavour. There is still so much room in dessert Apples lor good free-cropping, high- flavoured varieties. A. D. HAEDINESS OF EOMNEYA COULTEEI AND OSTEOWSKIA MAGNIFICA. [To the Editor or "The Garden."] Sir, — I was very much interested in Mr. Fitzherbert's note on these fine plants, with which I generally agree, although I iear it brings us little nearer a diagnosis of the cause of their failure in so many gardens. From the accumulated evidence of many it would. I feel confident, be now impossible to assert that Romneya Coulteri is not hardy, although there are many places where it sufters much from spring frosts, and there requires some protection to prevent injury to the young growths. It is, however, frequently difficult to establish, and plants die off in a quite incom- prehensible manner, while others beside them live and eventually flourish. This points to the desirability of planting more than one specimen. I have come across it in a good many gardens where it is perfectly hardy, and where the planes have assumed rather imposing dimensions. In some places it is found necessary for protection to allow the old stems to remain until spring to give some protection to the new growths at a critical period in their season's growth. No one who has seen a good plant of this noble Poppywort will be willing to be long without it in their garden. There is, however, moredifiiculty withOstrowskia magnifica, which has beaten most of us in the North in our attempts to cultivate it successfully ; while some I know who have flowered it have been disappointed with its flowers, through their being, with them, flimsy and without substance. With others again it is very fine, and quite a striking plant. I have, for the present only, given up trying it, but I should like to make another attempt when opportunity ofters. What many have found is that it starts into growth too early for our winters, and suffers much from late frosts. If left unprotected it is cut badly, and fails to flower or even to grow to any height. On the other hand, if covered with a handlight, it becomes too much weakened by being drawn and forced by the protection of the glass that it does not flower even then. It is thus impossible to account it a satisfactory plant in many places] With me it dwindled away and proved a failure. I know some other gardens where it was given every possible attention, and was tried in various ways without any return for all the trouble it received. I hear, however, of some recruits to the H^^T ^^ffj^^^KoiE- •■- ^^^^Hjffl^^jSatrf ^^g^^B ^jj^^^^H i^^^ IBhg^^^^^^Hsj^^l HBlH^^r^^^^^H9 1^1 ^g^^Bffi \,\^v*' „ j^j n chrysanthemum president nonin. (A type of the Japanese incurved bloom.) ranks of hardy flower growers who are very hopeful of success even in districts where the Ostrowskia has hitherto been a sad failure and a source of vexation. One can only hope that others may succeed where one has hitherto failed. The diffi- culty of early growth is one not easy to meet in many districts where wet or mild autumns and winters are the rule. If one could only apply the retarding treatment, now so general for plants for the house, to this Ostrowskia we might hope for more success. It might be helpful were some one who has the opportunity to try the retarding treat- ment, and then to plant out the Ostrowskia in, say, March, or preferably, April. It is possible, too, that the Ostrowskia might do better in a shaded position than in a sunny one. The latter hastens growth, and it is also against the colour and long duration of the flowers of the Ostrowskia. Carsethorn, hy Dumfries, N.B. S. Aknott. WAYS OF SHOWING CHEYSAN- THEMUMS. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Most owners of gardens will cordially welcome the opening of the discussion for and against the single-stemmed Chrysanthemums as grown for exhibition, inaugurated by "A Reader" in the first issue of The Garden in its new form. From the cultured amateur's point of view, such artificial plants with one huge bloom may be curiously wonderful, but are bereft of all beauty. The professional view would probably differ, for there undoubtedly is a certain fascination in being able to produce big things of all kinds as a result of pure skill. Therefore, until this mode of culti- vation shall be discountenanced and pronounced contrary to the canons of good taste, and prizes cease to be offered at the shows for them, the temptation to grow Chrysanthemums after this pattern will prove too strong for gardeners to resist ; nor can we expect it to be otherwise while employers, with their usual indulgence, go on permitting the enormity. Of course it is weak, but when one's gardener has expended untold car 44 THE GARDEN. [January 21, 1905. and thought and affection in producing what we ourselves may regard as a monstrosity, it is a little ungracious to tell him that his greatest efforts have been nothing but love's labour lost. A way out of the difficulty is often found in altogether forbidding plants to be grown for exhibition ; but this again is rather harrl, and cuts off a pleasurable incentive to work which is often of great benefit. All owners of gardens, where Chrysanthemums are grown in any quantity, will therefore be greatly helped bj' the better education of public taste on this point. Some amateurs are even now to be found who have a sneaking admiration for floral mop-sticks, and who like their gardeners to win iarst prizes by pro- ducing them. We can but hope that better taste will soon become universal. An'other Reader. BAMBOOS IN THE OUTDOOK GARDEN. [To THE Editor oe "The Garden."] Sir, — Mr. .T. Roberts's contribution in last week's issue of The Garden doubtless interested many. My experience would include in the list of desir- able hardy Bamboos Phyllostachys nigra and Arundinaria nilida. Both stand the winter here well. My Bamboos are growing — some of the canes are 1.5 feet high — in a rather sheltered border (not a glen), and not one of mine has flowered. One under glass, A. Simoni has flowered in a small pot, and is none the worse for it. The Himalayan Bamboo, A. Falconeri (I think it is) dies down at the first frost, but protected with Cocoanut fibre at the roots, it shoots forth in late spring and forms a pretty object. Some of the Bamboos, it must be admitted, are in early spring untidy objects, but their grace and beauty in summer and autumn, and of some species even in winter, make one forget and forgive this drawback. ErUigh, Reading. F. C. THE BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSO- CIATION. [To the Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — Having been a firm believer in, and supporter of, the above ever since the present liberal and comprehensive scheme — which I have before now supported in your columns — was made public, it was with sincere pleasure that I read the able leaderette in your issue of the 7th inst. For many years it has been heard on all sides that gardeners ought to combine ; but so far as I am aware it was not until the meeting held at the Hotel Windsor last February that any serious attempt had been made, or any workable scheme had been brought forward, which was likely to bring about this " con- summation greatly to be desired." There have never been wanting croakers— those who have said that the gardener cannot combine — thus, I think, themselves showing a very poor spirit, and grossly libelling members of the gardening profession. The success or failure of the association has now for some time been in the balance ; it must have taken a lot of determination and hard work on the part of the promoters of the British Gardeners' Asso- ciation to carry matters to their present stage. What acquaintance I have with the affairs of the association makes me feel confident that having gone so far as it has it will go very much further, and will indeed successfully carry out its pro- gramme. Great credit is, I think, due to those who are doing the work — the members of the pro- visional committee and committee of selection — and credit is also due to those journals who have throughout expressed their belief in the possibilities of the scheme. I will conclude by reminding the inany who are "going to join" that now is the time to do so, and that it is more than likely that in the future some distinction will be made between the first .500 original members and later comers. E. A. value and beauty of this plant for ^winter bedding on the Riviera, and suggests that it should be worth a trial in Eoglish gardens. It so happens that this simple sweet and pretty Viola is a very old friend of the British gardener. From twenty to thirty j'ears ago there were few gardens unadorned by its presence in flower-beds in the spring and early summer. It was generally used to carpet beds planted with late bulbs, and most beautiful and effective it was for this purpose. Since then the Viola has been revolutionised by cross-hj'bridisa- tion. One of the parents of the early hybrids was Viola cornuta. It is well that Mr. Woodall should have drawn attention to its rarity, as for the purpose he indicates, namely, as a carpeting for other plants, where the colour (a lavender-blue) is desired I know of no prettier setting. 0. T. E. THE FRUIT GARDEN. VIOLA CORNUTA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sib, — In his most interesting and informing article " Riviera Notes," in The Garden of the 7th inst., Mr. Edward H. Woodall draws attention to the SUMMER V. WINTER PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. IT is a common occurrence to notice each winter, and, indeed, well on towards spring, many fruit trees and bushes where no attempt has been made to prune them. This, of course, is more general in medium-sized gardens and orchards, and not where the garden is well supervised. To say the least trees and bushes, with their long bare shoots, many of them quite unripenedat theendsand still retaining half-formed leaves, strike the gardener as evidence of sheer neglect. Such important work in fruit cul- ture should not be delayed ; indeed, the need should in many instances not have been allowed to arise. Why do so many who have the advantage of a collection of trees think that there is only one season for a general pruning, i.e., winter, and that it can be done at any time before growth begins again ? A certain amount of pruning must be done neces- sarily during winter, but in the case with most trees and bushesit might be reduced to a minimum, a system making it easier tor the workman, and certainly for the well doing and fruitfulness of the trees. How few amateurs, farmers, and cottagers realise the great advantage of summer pruning ? Those, of course, who have not considered the object of pruning, and when it should be done, work, so to speak, in the dark, and should a fair crop be obtained they can take little credit to themselves. This is trusting to Nature, which, with fruit culture in this country, is not always to be relied upon. Summer pruning of most fruit trees has much to recommend it, especially with Apples and Pears, also Peaches and Nectarines on outside walls. When to begin pruning in summer may be the stumbling-block with some, as there is a danger of too soon a start, thus causing a wholesale growth of young shoots, which would not ripen, but would rob the other shoots on which they appear of much nourishment. It should be remembered that a safe season to commence to shorten back the current season's wood is when it has practically finished its growth, viz., the end of .July or beginning of August, according to the season ; by that time the base of the shoots will have begun to harden — a good rule to go by. The advantages gained by summer pruning are threefold or more. First, the cutting back and removal of so much super- fluous growth proves a relief to the trees, and the whole of the sap, which rises afterwards, is concen- trated in the portion retained, and tends greatly to the full and better development of both wood and flower-buds. Secondly, the wood receiving more sun and air stands a much better chance of becoming more thoroughly matured — no small ad- vantage towards securing a good crop of fruit the following season. And, thirdly, the same conditions are all that can be desired for the fruit, assisting it to swell to its fullest size, and certainly bringing out the colour peculiar to each variety. Those who have not really studied the subject will admit that sutiScien tad vantages have been advanced to show that summer pruning is really necessary, resulting, when properly done, in that of winter being only of secondary importance, instead, as many wrongly consider, the one and only season. No more interesting work can be followed in the garden than pruning in different ways and seasons, and then, by carefully noting the results, much valuable knowledge is gained. Young gardeners in particular should make a careful study in this most important work, which will stand them in good stead in years to come. The right growths to cut out and to retain are not always selected ; but in forming the foundation of j'oung trees in particular this is all important, and one should carry in their mind's eye the shape of each specimen, and thus reflect credit on their own handiwork when the trees come into full bearing. Referring to winter pruning, that which requires doing should be done at once, and the thoughts then will probably occur. Why cut away all this wood ? And for what reason was it retained ? If such thoughts were earnestly considered and acted upon, and the system altered, better results would undoubtedly follow. With regard to trees that were summer pruned, these, too, will require going over, and here and there a further shortening of a few inches may be nec3s3ary, cutting always to an outside bud, which eventually will prevent the centres of the trees becoming crowded later on. There is one exception, perhaps, we ought to make, and that is in the case of such fruits as Gooseberries and Cherries. Each of these are in some seasons seriously robbed by birds of many of the flower-buds, and it is wise then not to prune untilspring isat hand. This gives the growera better selection of shoots to preserve, when there will also be other food to tempt the birds. Richard Parker. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. LESSONS FROM 1904. {Continued from page 31.) Varieties to Choose for 1905. — Borecoles and Kales. ALL kinds of these are splendid, and when /% a good selection is made they form a / % very pleasing and attractive feature in / \ the kitchen garden. A good strain of J_ ^ Scotch Curled can hardly be beaten for hardiness and general use. Two of the most desirable varieties I know are Carter's Welsh and Carter's Purple Plume. Both are perfectly distinct, attractive, and of good quality. Sutton's Drumhead is also a fine, profitable Kale, and quite distinct. The old Cottager's Kale is still much appreciated, and is a very prolific sort of fine quality. The Labrador Kale is distinct and valuable, very hardy, and remains a long time fit for use in spring. I know of none so refined in flavour. Unfortunately, it is difficult to get this true to name. Broccoli has seldom, if ever, promised better, and it precautions in the colder districts have been taken to layer it, which owing to its late growth is necessary, an uninterrupted supply should be assured till next .June. Sutton's Michaelmas White and Sutton's Christmas White are both valuable, and very nearly allied to Cauli- flowers in appearance and flavour. A true strain of Snow's Winter White should, if possible, be grown in every collection. Leamington ie another old and reliable sort, and if followed by Veitch's Model (a magnificent sort) and Late Queen one should be well supplied for the season. Cabbages all through have been everything one could wish. If I were confined to one variety only I should vote for Ellam's Early, a grand introduction of the best quality, that seldom bolts. Sutton's Flower of Spring is a larger sort, but very fine. Rosette Colewort should be grown in every garden for autumn and winter use. Among red or pickling sorts Bobbie's New Dwarf Red Gem is the best I know, being of dwarf medium size and grand colour. Savoys. Like all the varieties of the Brassica family, Savoys are good and plentiful this winter. There January 21, 1905.] THE GAEDEN. 45 is at the present time a large selection of splendid varieties to choose from, but for general use the medium-sized types are much to be preferred to the large coarse sorts. Sutton's Perfection is also much liked here. It has all the characteristics of a good Savoy, and for very late supplies Webb's new Latest of All is unsurpassed. It is very hardy. Cauliflowers. I do not remember a better season for these, and we certainly never had such a wealth of high-class specimens as last year. Thanks to the large number of fine varieties introduced by the various seedsmen, there is no difficulty in keeping up a ontinuous supply all through the spring, summer, and autumn if frequent sowings are made. Veitch's Extra Early Forcing, Carter's Defiance, and Sutton's Magnum Bonum are excellent for pots, frames, or orchard houses. These produce small pearly-white heads, so much liked for the table, and force gently with the greatest ease. Following these, the old Walcheren can hardly be beaten, but the mainstay for general use is that grand variety, Veitch's Autumn Giant, one of the finest vegetables ever produced. There are several distinct types selected from it which are worthy of cultivation, notably Sutton's Early Giant. I regard this as the finest for exhibition, and excel- lent in every way. Carter's Extra Early Giant I like much ; it should be grown by all exhibitors. It seldom fails to produce magnificent pure white heads. Celery. In some districts the Celery fly has been very prevalent, and in one or two instances the crop has been practically spoilt, but on the whole it is good, and we certainly never had finer. Among white varieties Sutton's Solid White, Carter's Solid Ivory, and Wright's Giant have all been good. Standard Bearer is still the best red I know. Webb's Mammoth Red is fine for exhibition. The new Pink raised by myself I will leave cultivators to form an opinion of after it has been sent out. Leeks. No vegetables require more skill and patience to produce than Leeks, and our Scotch friends certainly take the lead in this respect. Neverthe- less, I am thoroughly convinced it is possible to grow them equally well in the south, providing, of course, we are prepared to go to the same amount of trouble and the best strains are procured. But what constitutes a good Leek has never, in my opinion, been properly decided. I am not in favour of a blanch of, say, 2 feet, unless size is in proportion. Eighteen inches of blanch of good size and perfect form in every way is, I think, the standard to aim at. The slightest sign of bulbing or running to seed condemns them at once, and each specimen in a dish should be as much alike as possible. I have seen better Leeks in previous years than last. Elstree. E. Beckett. (To be continued.) ORCHI DS CATTLEYA BOWEINGIANA LILACINA. THE petals and sepals of this Orchid have a peculiar bluish shade which is more pronounced on the front portion of the labellum, making it very noticeable, and its effect when staged with the ordinary variety is very pleasing. The normal forms of Cattleya bowringiana are well worth growing ; they flower during the early winter months in large clusters, which makes them very desirable, and single flowers are extremely useful for button- holes. Previous to the reintroduction of the autumn-flowering Cattleya labiata by Messrs. Sander and Sons, C. bowringiana was the chief Cattleya flower during October and November, and although we now have many that flower at that season this one is still worth its room in the best collections. It has also proved itself one of the best parents for hybridising. Among those in which it has been used are the beautiful forms of C Mantini, in which C. aurea was the other parent; C. Portia, obtained from this, and C. labiata and C. wend- landiana when C. gigas was used. Many others, in fact most of the early winter- flowering hybrids now so often seen, have been obtained from this species. They are generally good growers, and flower freely. They have added much to the beauty of our houses during the dull season. W. P. Bound. GattonPark Gardens, Reigate. ORCHID GROWING FOR BEGINNERS. The Houses. — It is necessary to provide suitable accommodation for the Orchids before purchasing them. The question of the house or houses is a most im- portant detail ; a duffer can grow them better in a good structure than a good grower can in a bad one. A good house does not necessarily mean an expensive one. I have seen costly houses erected that will never prove good ones. The first consideration should be position, and the best would be where unrestricted light can reach the plants when it is wanted. If the houses are to run side by side keep them far enough apart to allow of a free circulation of air between. The house I would give preference to is a span roof that runs north and south. The brickwork should be 3 feet 6 inches high, in which are fitted ventilators, the upright side glass, standing 2 feet 9 inches, would give a total light to the spouting of 6 feet 5 inches from the ground level, the centre of the house, not including the lantern, being 9 feet would give a good pitch for all classes of Orchids. I strongly favour a lantern ventilator to the roof, about 12 inches higher than the latter. The matter of length will be best decided by the position, but I strongly condemn long houses. A good length is about 30 feet, but much expense will be saved if the houses can follow one another, dividing each with a glass partition. A very convenient width for this style of house is 11 feet, inside measurement, that allows for two 4 feet stages and 3 feet for the path. All the bars should be of the drip conductor type, and placed to allow of glass squares, 13 inches wide, being used. These give plenty of light and ensure a strong structure. It is advisable to have the side lights so made that all may be opened. In many houses it is not necessary to open them, but as the cost is very little more when the house is being built, it well repays being done, and as at some future time the house may be wanted for Orchids requiring side ventilation, then the conversion would cost far more. Ventilating. — I prefer the top ventilator to be a continuous lantern one ; during bad weather by putting on the slightest crack the whole of the A blue-lipped orchid (cattleya bowringiana LILACINA). {In the Orchid collection oi Mr. Jeremiah Colman, Gatton Park, Reigate). foul air which congregates at the apex of the root escapes quickly. The most important ventilators are those fitted in the brickwork under the stage; they may be made in wood, but the best are those made of iron. If they are not all iron, at least they should have iron frames, and the centre be filled with Artley's roll glass. If it is desired they can be fitted with gear so that they can be worked all at once from the inside, they should be Just on a level with the hot-water pipes, so that the air is warmed before it passes further into the house, then ventilation is possible during the worst days of winter, and plants require fresh air then as much as they do on more genial days. Many structures that have been erected with other objects in view may often be made suitable for growing Orchids successfully. In houses erected for other plants the chief drawback generally is the absence of bottom ventilators, although this is easily put right. W. P. Bound. WOfiK FOR THE WEEK. Cypripediums. — Plants of Cypripedium Charles- worthii, C. spicerianum, C. arthurianum, C. purpuratum, C. Euryades, C. Tityus, C. Niobe, C. aureum, and C. Sallierii hyeanum which have recently ceased flowering may now be repotted into larger pots, healthy plants being shifted into pots two sizes larger. Similar compost to that advised in the last calendar for C. insigne is the most suitable for them. C. leeauum and its numerous varieties are quite as useful as the old C. insigne. Coming into bloom at this season they are particularly welcome for brightening up the Orchid house, and they deserve to be grown in quantity. Any plants of this beautiful hybrid that require repotting may be attended to soon after the flowers are cut. AH of the above-named 46 THE GAEDEN. [January 21, 1905. Cypripediunis will grow freely in a shady part of the intermediate house. When grown in a very light position the plants frequently lose more leaves than is desirable. The atmosphere surround- ing these Cj pripediums should be kept well charged with moisture at all times, and afford the plants plenty of water at the roots the whole year round. Plants of (J. Boxallii and C. villosum are now sending up their flowers, which will require guiding through the thieli foliage or they may become distorted. In tying up the flowers of plants which have the leaves crowded together care must be taken that the sticks do not injure the young growths. Now flowering in an intermediate tem- perature is the pretty SoPHRONiTis vioLACEA, a beautiful object when smothered with its small violet-magenta flowers. It appears to thrive best when fastened upon a bare block of Apple wood with the bark taken off, and suspended in a cool, shady part of the house. The block should be kept moist at all times. Sophronitis granJiflora is now flowering freely in the cool house ; its glowing scarlet flowers produce a brilliant effect near the roof, and especially when over such flowers as Odontoglossum crispum. Plants of this species while in flower will still require a moderate quantity of water at the root, but care should be taken not to sprinkle the flowers or they may decay prematurely. After the flowers fade the plants may be afforded fresh rooting material if it is found necessary to do so. Shallow pans are preferable to pots. These pans should be well drained, using well-dried Fern rhizomes instead of the ordinary crocks. The compost should consist of fibrous peat, leaf-soil, and chopped sphagnum moss in about equal parts. Only a very thin layer of the compost is necessary for the plant to root into, surfacing this with clean picked moss. In this mixture the plants should never be thoroughly soaked or the roots will be liable to decay. After being repotted suspend the plants near the roof glass of the cool house. The distinct Sophronitis rossiteriana, a form with clear yellow flowers, is also now in bloom. It requires similar treatment to the preceding species. Odontoglossom CErstedii is another dwarf- growing species, which requires the same kind of treatment as advised for Sophronitis grandi- flora. Well-bloomed plants of this pretty white species form a lovely contrast to the bright scarlet of the Sophronitis. These dwarf-growing Orchids are well worth any extra attention that can be paid to them. Burford, Dorkiny. W. H. White. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. HA P. D Y E D C4 I N G S make a good finish to beds and borders of flowering plants near walks or the house, and form a desirable change to Pyrethrum aureum, so generally used for the purpose. Existing edgings that have become ragged or overgrown their allotted space should now be attended to by lifting the whole, digging, levelling, and treading down the line to be replanted. Among numbers of suitable plants for the purpose I may mention Saxifraga hypnoides, Sedum glaucum, Herniaria glabra. Phlox setacea, Cerastiums, Thrift, Arabis, &o. , as sorts that can be dibbled in as small rootless tufts quickly forming an effective and permanent edging, but most should be divided and replanted every alternate year. Santolina incana, although not quite hardy in some districts, is nevertheless a splendid edging plant, and bears clipping well ; its grey colour is pleasing and restful to the eye, and gives little trouble. Cuttings — last year's ripened growths — laid in thickly now where they are to remain will turn out equally as satisfactory as those inserted in beds in the autumn, thereby saving labour of an extra planting. Narrow and uniform edgings of this kind are not in keeping with bold arrangements in large and distant beds, a broad, irregular band of taller and more striking plants being preferable. Although seldom used, Sedum spectabile is pre- eminently adapted for such positions. The Rock Garden'.— Cut off all dead tops, weed and fork the ground now the later bulbs are visibly pushing through, top-dressing those whose roots have become exposed through the action of heavy rains or waterings, filling up all hollows, clearing out vacant spaces and pockets (for pro- bably the soil in these has become sour and inert), and refill with such soil as will suit whatever plants are intended to occupy them later. Finall}', as some stones and boulders in moist situations have a tendency to become moss-covered, this must be cleaned off, and nothing is better for the work than a well-worn Birch broom. If the Moss is allowed to remain it will in time completel}' cover the rockery. On the other hand, encourage and protect the growth of lichens in every possible way, for they impart that soft grey colouring and appearance of age so pleasing in either artificial or natural rocks. iSIaintain lawns and walks in perfect condition, remedying all inequalities in grass verges, but delay edging-iron work until the season of sharp frosts is past. Dahlias. — If it is intended to increase any varieties of these, the tubers should be placed in heat to produce cuttings, as should also a few Phloxes of clear decided colours, even if the general stock is deemed adequate and there is no necessity for increasing it in heat. These early spring-struck cuttings extend the flowering season into quite late autumn, so should be propagated thus for that purpose. John- Roberts. The Gardens, Tan-y-hwlch, North Wales. INDOOR GARDEN. Hardy and Hai.f-hardy Annuals.— With per- haps the single exception of Mignonette, these plants do not receive the attention they deserve for greenhouse decoration. They only require cool treatment, so the amateur with his one small greenhouse can grow them as well as the pro- fessional gardener with ranges of houses under his charge. By sowing now they can be had in flower six weeks or two months before those grown out- side. The following is a selection of the most useful : Rhodanthes, Acrocliniums, Nemesia stru- mosa Suttoni, (lypsophila elegans, Sweet Peas (tall and Cupid varieties), Godetias, Clarkias, Collinsia bicolor, Petunias, Schizanthus, and Coreopsis. Sow the seeds in soil c:omposed of two parts loam, one of leaf-soil, and a liberal sprinkling of sand. When repotting use rather more loam, and add a little manure from a spent hot-bed. The first four mentioned above and Cupid Sweet Peas should be sown thinly in the pots in which they are to flower, say, of 5 inches diameter. When putting soil in the pots leave sufficient room for top-dressinc the seedhngs when the}' are .3 inches or 4 inches high. Thin out when large enough to handle, leaving ten or twelve in a pot. Sow the tall varieties of Sweet Peas also in .3-inch pots, and pot on into 7-inch or 8-inch pots, in which they will flower. The remainder can be sown in pans and pricked off five or six into small pots. Another method is to sow in small pots and thin out afterwards. Pot on when well rooted into ,5-inch or 6-inch pots. Schizanthus grown singly in 5-inch pots and pinched several times make useful plants. Hard-wooded Plants. — These need very care- ful attention at this season of the year. Ventilate as much as possible, avoiding draughts. Use no more fire-heat than is absolutely necessary. At the least sign of mildew dust the affected parts with sulphur. The plants should be placed on ashes or shingle. Avoid open stages, as on these watering is much more difficult ; the soil is often found to be dry at the bottom of the pot, while on the surface it appears quite wet. Cut back Erica hyemalis and Epacris as they go out of flower, giving slightly warmer treatment. General Remarks. — Climbers may be pruned and cleaned about this date. Keep rather dry at the root. Where Gardenias are required, more especially for cutting, it will be best to root a batch of cuttings annually, as longer stalks and usually better growth are obtained from young plants. Cut back Begonia Gloire de Lorraine as they become shabb}', aud rest for a short time before starling into growth to obtain cuttings. Introduce batches of forcing shrubs and bulbs into heat as required. Place a few plants, such as Acacias and Eupatoriums, in a warmer house to flower in advance of the general batch, as there will be a dearth of tall plants after the blaze of the Chrysanthemums. Royal Gardens, Kew. A. OsBORN. FRUIT GAEDEN. Queen Pise Apples. — Plants which are to fruit in the early summer months should be placed in the fruiting house at once. Thoroughly clean the house, and have the plunging material in a proper state to receive the plants. Select the strongest plants which are opening at the centre. These are most likely to throw up fruit. Before moi'ing them they require to be staked to prevent twisting at the base. Remove some of the lower leaves and top-dress with fibrous loam and artificial manure. Thoroughly water the plants with tepid water. Endeavour at all times to keep a humid atmosphere by damping the paths and walls. A temperature of 70° at night will be suitable, except in very severe weather, when it may decline to 65°. Admit a little air on favourable occasions, but take full advantage of sunshine by shutting the house up at midday. Weak guano water occasion- ally syringed between the plants will be of benefit, and later on, when the roots are active, they may be fSd liberally with liquid farmyard manure and guano water alternately. The Smooth Caj'enne and Rothschild varieties, which give the autumn and winter supply, should not be excited into growth till the weather becomes more favourable. They must not, however, be allowed to get too dry at the root. If the roof glass has become dirty through fogs it should be washed, or the plants will become weak. Apricots. — The Apricot being one of the first hardy fruit trees to flower, the necessary pruning and training should be done at once. Very little pruning will be required, provided the trees were proper!}' attended to in the matter of stopping during the summer. At the same time neither spurs nor young wood should be crowded, as this tends to a general weakening of the tree and prevents the fruiting wood getting the necessary amount of light and air so essential to fertility. The finest fruits are obtained from the previous season's wood, so that in training space should be left for laying in sufficient young wood during the summer to furnish the tree the following season. A properly trained tree should have all its fruiting wood on the upper side of the main branches. Gooseberries. — To obtain fruit of the best quality for dessert it is necessary to encourage young growth, so that in pruning a certain number of old branches must be removed to prevent over- crowding. Cut back side shoots to two buds, also leaders which are getting out of bounds. An occasional dusting of lime and soot will keep birds at bay. Red and White Currants should be spurred back to two or three buds, and if necessary cut back leading shoots to a few inches of their base, according to their strength. Black Currants should be thinned of as much old wood as possible consistent with the making of a well-formed bush, leaving in the young growths of the previous year. Guard against overcrowding, cutting away any very strong and misplaced shoots. Gather up the prunings and lightly fork up the quarters. Old plantations will greatly benefit by the application of a good dressing of rotten manure. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor, KITCHEN GARDEN. Weeds. — I think I hear some of your readers exclaim, " What about weeds in .January ? Surely we need not trouble ourselves about weeds in this cold and stormy weather." But if they will examine their winter vegetables it is more than likely that they will discover some thriving patches of Chick- weed, or, it may be, a luxuriant plant of Groundsel, January 21, 1905.] THE GAEDEN. 47 both scattering their seeds in lavish profusion, ensuring a numerous and troublesome family by and by, when genial showers and milder days return. All such unprofitable members should be cleared from winter vegetables, Parsley, &c., during open weather. Early Carrots. — When young Carrots are required early in the season they can be obtained in perfection on mild hot-beds of leaves and manure. Making the hot-bed is very important, and in order to secure a lasting heat leaves from hard-wooded trees, such as the Oak and Beech, must be used, also fresh stable litter ; three parts of leaves to one of litter. These materials must be properly turned over to sweeten before the bed is made up. A dry, sheltered, sunny position facing due south must be selected if possible. The size of the bed must be regulated by the frame to be used, leaving the aides of the bed to project a foot all round. Make the material fairly firm and 3 feet or 4 feet deep. The hot-bed will then be ready to receive the frame ; the surface inside the latter must be covered 3 inches or 4 inches deep with sandy soil, and some wood ashes if they can be had. A pointed stick may be pushed into the centre of the hot-bed for the purpose of ascertaining its temperature. When the stick is withdrawn and feels comfortably warm in the hand the seeds may be sown broadcast, not too thickly, and then slightly covered. As a natural moisture will arise from the hot-bed no water will be required for some time ; a little air must be left on the frame. To keep the temperature steady cover the frame at night with mats; during the day regulate according to the weather. Keep rather close until the Carrots germinate. Other Early Vegetables and Salad. — On a bed of the above description many other early vegetables can be produced. This method is much better than that of sowing seeds in boxes, &c. , and having them distributed here and there in forcing houses. Early Cauliflower plants raised on a hot- bed at this season are greatly superior to those sown in autumn, their growth being quicker and their tendency to button much reduced. An early sowing of Brussels Sprouts will succeed well on this bed, as will early Potatoes and Celery to be planted out later on. Turnips may also be sown on it ; perhaps they may not attain a large size, but will always be acceptable for flavouring purposes. In a corner of the frame reserved for salads crisp and well- flavoured Lettuces and Radishes can be easily grown. James Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's I.sle, Kirkcudbright, N.B. A VISIT TO MESSRS. ALEX. DICKSON AND SONS. (Continued from 2^age 30.) NEWTOWNARDS is easily reached by a rail way journey of short dura- tion from Belfast, and the Eoyal Irish Nurseries are close to its station. After a hearty welcome no time was lost in proceeding to that portion of the extensive nurseries that is devoted to the seedling Roses, and here I must pause to thank the two members of the firm who devoted the whole of the day to showing me the result of their labours — their kindness I shall long remember. Here were no haphazard methods, nothing left to chance, but every Rose had its history duly noted and indexed in such a manner that reference was made quite easy, and as this is done to thousands of Roses the clerical work alone can be no light matter. When to this are added the name, date, and time of crossing of its respective parents, the date of the sowing of the seed, the various results obtained from each pod of seed, always varying in character to an extent hardly to be credited by the un- initiated, the watching of the young seedlings, and the careful budding required, some idea may be formed of the nature of the task Messrs. Dickson have set themselves, and an answer is forthcoming to that question why so few firms attempt the production of new Roses, and fewer succeed. There is no royal road to the pro- duction of new Roses, neither is there any secret as to the methods employed. Hard work, careful attention to detail, and a love of the Rose in the heart — these are the essentials. One often hears climate mentioned as the cause of Messrs. Dickson's unique success — I do not believe it for a moment — there is nothing peculiar about the Newtownards climate, except that there is, possibly, a heavier rainfall than in most localities where Roses are grown. No, given the same methods, the same desire and love for the work, I believe the result that would be obtained need not be very different in any Rose nursery in England, Scotland, Ireland, or Wales. The first batch of seedlings we looked at were growing in rather poor soil that had not been heavily manured, and here on every side were flowers of all kinds, colours, and with varying habits of growth— Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Chinas, some marked for further trial, others definitely approved of, but the bulk destined for the bonfire ; each is known by a number and the year of its birth. I refrain, for obvious reasons, from giving the parentage of the flowers that particularly struck me, and as few of them had arrived at the dignity of a name they could only be described by the help of reference to old Ro.ses of similar character, such as an improved Souv. de S. A. Prince, a better Mme. Hoste, and so on. There were many, however, of these, and if no furtherRoses areproduced sufficient werehere to last, at the present rate of sending out, for many years to come ; and no doubt many of these (before their time comes for distribution, even after a good stock has been raised) will be dis- carded at the last moment, not because they are not beautiful, but because something better has, in the meantime, been produced. I was pleased to see not a few fine-coloured crimson Hybrid Teas, of varying form, that will efl'ec- tively take the place of some of the old Hybrid Perpetuals, the apparent neglect of which Mr. Mawley, in his comments on that most useful Rose analy.sis of his for 1903, so feelingly de- plores. What matters it whether it is a Hybrid Perpetual or a Hybrid Tea ? What does matter is, that while the one can only bear at the most two crops each of a few weeks' duration, the other will givs us flowers for months, or as the Americans would say, " all the time." Perhaps a few notes on the named varieties that will be shortly distributed will not be without interest to those of your readers who may not yet have seen these flowers. I take them in no specific order, but as they occur in my note- book. Bean Hole. — An especial interest is attached to this Rose. Awarded the gold medal at the National Rose Society's Temple Show in -July, a typical flower was conveyed to the late Dean Hole, who, ill though he then was, wrote a most characteristic letter of thanks to the raisers, which has appeared in the columns of a con- temporary. In it he showed that his interest in his favourite flower was as keen as ever, and he was quite satisfied that the Rose should go down to posterity bearing his name. The loss that the Rose world has since sustained by his death is irreparable. There is no one that can quite fill his vacant place. Your columns and those of the entire Press throughout the English- speaking world bore eloquent witness of what the example of a good and great man can do. Of_ the Rose itself, it is too early to say definitely that it is worthy of the name it bears ; but, judging from the plants I saw growing at Newtownards, and the flowers they were then bearing at a date when most of the shows were over (and the plants had been heavily cut from), I have no hesitation in saying it is a Rose of the greatest merit. It is distinct from either Maman Cochet or Mrs. Edward Mawley, and (surely it is no detriment to say it is reminiscent of both of these grand varieties) with a finer petal than either, and a far better habit of growth, in short of that general Dickson type I have already alluded to, with freedom of flower over a long period. It is being distributed this autumn (1904), and 1 have no doubt the demand for plants will far exceed the supply. H. E. Molynedx. (To he continued.) TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— r/ie Editor intends to make The Garden tt^lpful to all readers wfio desire assistance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, anduith that object will make a special feature of the *' Answers to Corre- spondents" c»lumn. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of THE Garden, 5, Southampton Street, .Strand, London. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Names of Plants. — F. W. E. — Clethra arborea, the Lily of the Valley Tree. Minn O'Grady. — 1, Eacallonia montevidensis ; 2, Ilex Aquifolium oiliata, a curious dwarf form of the common Holly. Like all Hollies the flowers are insignificant ; 3, the Chinese Privet (Ligustrum sinense) ; 4, Pvhamnus Alaternus maculatus. P. G. — Cypripedium nitens {C. villosum x C. insigne) is the one with the spotted dorsal sepal ; the one with dark pouch and striped dorsal sepal is C. Curtisii, a species from Sumatra ; the Odontoglossum is hunnewelliauum, one of the parents of the popular hybrid named Adriante. Orcana. — Billbergia nutans. Names of Fruit. — Chesfield. — 1, Cornish Aro- matic ; 2, Hall Door ; 3, Pearson's Plate ; 4, Cox's Orange Pippin. Planting out Seedling Irises ( Staffordshire J. — Early autumn is the best time, but if the seed- lings are strong and can be lifted without unduly disturbing the roots they may be transplanted forthwith, taking care to make them very firm in the soil or frosts will uproot and ruin them. If they have grown strongly they should flower this season, and the weaklings next. I. tolmieana revels in turfy loam and peat ; the others grow well in ordinary soil with sand added to the staple. It is quite in order that seedling Irises never seem to dry off. I. sindjarensis alone of those you name should rest naturally as soon as its bulb is formed. Yellow Tufted Pansies (H. Elliot). — There are now quite a large number of first-class bedding Violas, or, as we prefer to call them. Tufted Pansies. To discriminate fairly we have taken pains through the past season to compile a list of the belter sorts, under their different colours, and this serves our purpose admirably on the present occasion. We recommend the following varieties for their all-round good quality. They each possess a good habit of growth, are free flowering, of a distinct shade of colour, and the plants also possess a good constitution. Mrs. E. A. Cadw, rich yellow, rayless ; Yellow Beauty, a fine yellow self, rayless ; and Yellow Glory, a rayless yellow, a good bedder. Scented Lilacs. — "il/. .4. i?." writes: "I would be very much obliged to you if you would be kind enough to tell me whether, among the new and double Lilacs, there are any sweet-scented ones. 48 THE GAKDEN. [January 21, 1905. Those which I have seen, Souvenir de L. Spath and Mme. Caeimir Perier, aie quite devoid of scent, and there are others in which it is extremely faint. I am thinking of plan tint; a lot of Lilacs this spring, and would so much prefer to have only the sweet kinds, that a short list of these would be of great assistance to me, some which would represent the greatest range of colour. A scentless Lilac is to me onlv a " beautiful fraud." [We sent this letter to one "who has a large collection of Lilacs, and the answer is to the effect that the high-bred varieties, especially the double ones, are on the whole less fragrant than those approaching the common Lilac. We hope to refer to this subject again when the Lilacs are in flower. — Ed.] Treatment or Hydkangeas (H. G. Simpson).— Few plants are better suited for early forcing than the common Hydrangea (H. hortensis), and the white variety Thomas Hogg is equally serviceable, and cannot be too highly recommended. We have had both in bloom early in February, and although the colour was not quite so good as in plants flowering when we get more daylight, they were very useful, especially as they were among the few subjects which did not suffer from the London fogs. For forcing, the plants should be propagated early in the summer. The soft young tops will strike freely in a close pit where there is a good bottom-heat. As soon as rooted they should be removed and gradually exposed. When suffi- ciently established they may be potted into 4A-inch pots, using good rich loamy soil. The plants should be grown in the open where they are fully exposed to the sun. Towards the autumn they should be kept rather dry to encourage them to ripen off early. If treated too liberally the plants will run up tall and will not set their bloom so well. Propagating Dracjsnas (S. T. Walls).— Any stools of these that can be spared, such as leggy plants which are going shabby, should now be cut up for propagation. It should, however, be borne in mind that the most vigorous wood, and the healthiest also, makes the best material for starting afresh. When the wood is cut into short pieces, a joint is sufficient for a young plant ; it should be soaked in tepid water, and then be plunged in cocoa-nut fibre upon bottom-heat. Growth will soon commence. Injury from cockroaches must be guarded against, as where these exist they seem fond of the young shoots, and will even eat them off under the surface. Plenty of moisture is, how- ever, a good deterrent. The Best Anthuriums (Edensor). — Although not numerous at this season, the richly-coloured blossoms of a few Anthuriums form a showy mid- winter feature in the stove, their value in this repeot being still further enhanced by the length of time they remain fresh and bright. The most noticeable of all just now is a vivid coloured form of A. andreanuni, by no means of good habit. The various hybrids, in the production of which A. andreanuni has played a part, also flower more or less in the winter, and their paler tints afford a pleasing variety to the richly-coloured flowers of A. andreanuni. The first of these hybrids to which attention was particularly directed is A. ferrierense, raised between A. andreanuni and the white-flowered A. ornatum. Since then a very large number of varieties have been put into commerce, but many of them greatly resemble each other. A. ferrierense has the flowers of a bright rosy carmine colour, while varieties with salmon- coloured spathes are also represented among these numerous hybrids. The stout leathery leaves of these hybrids of the A. ferrierense type render them very ornamental from a foliage point of view alone. Wintering Cannas (H. J. Jaclcson).Some of the newer race of Cannas, more particularly those with yellow blossoms dotted with red, do not produce very stout rhizomes, and if kept too dry during the winter they are very apt to perish. Within the last few years large quantities of Cannas have been distributed by our nurserymen during the winter months, as when dormant they can be readily sent through the post. On receipt they should be at once potted and placed under conditions favourable to growth, for if the rhizomes are bruised or injured in anyway thevare very apt to decay if kept out of the soil, but when potted roots are quickly produced and decay is at once arrested. Those that are established in pots will keep well in a greenhouse and with the soil in a slightly moist condition. With a little additional heat, however, Cannas may be had in flower nearly all the year round. The Best Aucuba {E. G. IFiVhanM).— Notwith- standing the large number of new varieties intro- duced from time to time (not so much perhaps of late years as from fifteen to twenty years back), Aucuba japonica, more correctly perhaps termed Aucuba japonica maculata, still heads the list as a shrubbery plant of the first rank. In some districts, it is true, it does not thrive so well as one could wish, but these occurences are extremely rare so far as we have personally taken notes. As an undergrowth to tall deciduous trees we would not be without this Aucuba on any account. For such purposes we consider it one of the best shrubs that can be planted. When the tall deciduous trees have cast their foliage, that of the Aucuba shines forth at its best. Some may possibly have failed when planting for this particular purpose where it has not been an easy matter to get anything to thrive. As regards the Aucuba, we find it is best to select yearling plants for massing or planting in any quantity in unfavourable positions. By this we mean either cuttings that have been rooted for [about twelve months or layers of the same stage. Red and White Daisies (IF. W. Sontkom).— For filling flower-beds cheaply Daisies should not be lost sight of. If you start with a few dozen you can soon make them into thousands if required, and, unless through carelessness, need never lose them. After they are lifted from the beds in May divide and plant out in nursery beds in a shady spot if possible and water for a time till established, and there will be plenty of stocky stuff to fill the beds in autumn. What soft lines of colour Daisies make if one really wishes for long, straight lines. We were kept waiting at a country station several hours last spring, and to while away the time we sauntered into the little village, and what a place for Daisies it was. Long lines of white and red Daisies led up to the cottage door in more than one garden, and very charming they looked. The red and white are most useful for filling beds or making edgings. The Hen and Chickens Daisy is less common and more expensive to purchase, and the variegated leaved forms are more difficult to manage. A small bed filled with white Daisies and a broad band of red Daisies round will have a neat effect. They always look fresh, no matter what the weather may be, and if mild, flowers may be gathered more or less all winter. Border Plants {Lancaster). — We think the following plants will be suitable for the position, and we have studiously avoided any that incline to coarseness, or even the larger-growing things, which we consider out of place in a border of the width given. As some positions appear very dry we have marked by an asterisk a certain number of plants that will not object so much to this. Old Crimson P.-eony and other Pteonies in select varieties of rose, flesh, white, cream, &c., *Kniphofia aloides (Flame Flower), *K. a. glau- cescens, Lilium tigrinum splendens, L. t. Fortunei, L. davuricum, L. Martagon dalmaticum, L. speciosum album, L. s. Krajtzeri, *L. candidum, Oaltonia candicans, *Alstreemeria aurantiaca, *Iris ochroleuca, *0strow8kia magnifica, Montbretias in variety, Muscaria conicum, and Daffodils in variety. The positions for these could in the present year be planted with annuals, inserting the bulbs in early autumn. Lenten Roses, German Irises in such varieties as Gracchus, Dr. Bernice, Mrs. Darwin, pallida, Mme. Chereau, aurea. Queen of May, Thorbeck, Darius, &c., with such Irises as aurea, Monnieri, Monspur, *stylosa, and *a. alba, single and double Pyrethrums in great variety, Gaillardias, Scabiosas, Megasea cordifolia purpurea, thedwarfer Day Lilies as flava, Dumortieri, middendorthana, etc. , Delphinium Belladonna, and a select set of hybrid Delphiniums, English and Spanish Irises— it is now too late to plant these bulbous kinds — Heleniums of sorts, Heucheras, Japanese Anemones, Anemone sylvestris, A. s. plena, A. s. baicalense. Clove and other Carnations, Gladiolus Lemoinei, Achillea raongolica, A. The Pearl, Statice latifolia, Rud- beckia Newmanii, Galegas, hybrid Pentstemons, and such things as Anemone fulgeus, Gentiana acaulis. Phlox frondosa, P. Nelsoni, and others, Saxifraga Wallacei, Antennaria, and Achillea aurea near the front as marginal plants. What we suggest is a free grouping arrangement, where patches of Montbretias or Lilies, Aster Amellus, A. Novi- Belgii densus, A. cordifolius, TroUius, Irises, Del- phiniums, and others would give sheaves of blossoms in their season, with Daffodils and other things springing from their base and flowering before the taller things had begun to grow. To make such a border really effective it would be necessary to make a rough sketch. Such a sketch, with the predominant colour of the plant noted, would diminish the possibilities of nearly allied things appearing in too close proximity. The above are all permanent perennials and quite hardy. MAKING A Span Frame {G. If. E.). — There is no need at all to have elaborate working drawings for making a wooden span frame for Violets or other things. If you want one of moderate dimen- sions make it 6 feet long by 4- feet wide, the sides and ends of 1 inch thick wood ; the sides 10 inches deep, and the ends cut sloping, as shown in your drawing, to match the sides ; the point or ridge of each end being 22 inches deep, or allowing a rise from the sides to the ridge of 12 inches ; that would give ample fall for the glass-lights. A stout 2-inch beam should be let into the point or ridge of each end, thus, with the sides securely nailed, holding the frame together. To that ridge beam the lights, two on each side, each 3 feet long, should be hung by hinges, and at the front of each light should be some simple catch to fasten it to the side when down should high winds prevail. A bevelled piece of wood should be nailed within each corner of the frame to strengthen the joints. Make the frame first, cutting sides, then ends, to match, then, when fixed together, making the lights to fit the frame. Give the whole, when complete, three coats of stone-coloured paint. Flower Garden {Joseph H. Straker). — We have, unfortunately, mislaid the sketch you sent formerly, and cannot now with accuracy recall the portion to which you now refer. The arches, however, already planted and with Roses estab- lished on them, should undoubtedly remain. Our chief idea in throwing the herbaceous border into the larger portion for general treatment was to enhance the effect of the chief part. We incline to the opinion that we did not realise the presence of the Rose arches on all sides, or the " Roses on rustic poles " in such near proximity would scarcely have been suggested. With these modifications the remainder would appear to fall into line. If, how- ever, the matter is not now quite clear and you desire further suggestions perhaps you could favour us with a further sketch, as it is our desire to assist our readers to the best of our ability. Various Queries {Beginner). — We should prefer painting greenhouse stands stone colour rather than green, as that colour soon becomes dull, and does not brighten the house. When stands are of a light colour and occasionally washed they look much better than dark painted ones, and make a pleasant contrast to red pots and green leaves. But the best time to paint the inside of a house is in the summer, when all the plants can be placed outside for a week or two. A strong turpentine smell is not good for plants. Of the tender and hardy annuals you name, sow seed in shallow pans or boxes about the second week in April ; sow thinly. The soil should be fine, and have in it plenty of sharp sand. If you have none good get a bushel or two from a florist. When seeds are sown, just covered gently, watered, and placed where to be grown, shade with newspapers, in strong sun- shine, till growth begins. Sow seeds of Tomatoes and Cucumbers, also, middle of April, in similar soil to the above named. Put 12 seeds of Tomato and 8 seeds of Cucumber in each of the ."i-inch pots. In an unheated house growth will be slow but sure. GARDEN ^J5 ^^^ No. 1732.— Vol. LXVII. January 28, 190.5. PRUNING. A MONG the many gardening operations /\ that have to be performed as the / \ seasons come round, few, if any, / \ are more important and productive of good or bad eflfect, according to the manner in which they are carried out, than pruning, and it is probably not far from the truth to say that none is more imperfectly understood. Pruning is one of those gardening duties that it is almost im- possible to teach on paper ; it is essentially practical, and therefore it is difficult to teach theoretically. In this case, as also in many another important work of the gardener, an ounce of practice is worth a pound of theory; a few minutes' practical demonstration would teach more than hours of writing could do. It is not easy — in fact, it is almost impossible — to treat lucidly of pruning in one article, because there are so many different ways of pruning ; certain classes of plants require cer- tain sorts of pruning, and none other will pro- duce such good results. The pruner should have a clear idea of the object in view before commencing to use the knife, otherwise it is easy to do much more harm than good. To take first those shrubs and plants that are grown for their flowers. Some bear flowers upon shoots made the previous year, while others will blossom on shoots that have yet to grow. It is, of course, all-important to know to which of these classes the plant to be pruned belongs. Take the Rose, for instance ; if you want the finest individual blooms possible from dwarf plants you prune these back to a few buds, so that they may produce two or three strong shoots, each bearing one or more blooms. If quantity is of more importance than quality, the shoots are not pruned back so hard; more shoots and more blossoms then result. If on the other hand, a climbing Rose is to be pruned, the long strong growths of last year are left to flower this year; when the blooms are over, these shoots are cut out, and others are encouraged to take their place. Supposing the plant to be pruned is a shrub that bears flowers on the current year's shoots, e g., the Ceanothus and Hydrangea, those made the previous year must be pruned hard back to ensure the production of vigorous growths. If, on the other hand, the flowers are borne on shoots made the previous year, as with the Winter Sweet and Forsythia, these must be left intact. With fruit trees just as much, or perhaps more, care is needed, for in this case the operation is more complex. The fruit of Apples, Pears, Plums, and Sweet Cherries is borne chiefly on spurs (specialised growths upon which flower-buds form), and the aim of the cultivator should be to preserve and encourage these. \\ e see how in pruning the flowering plants mentioned cutting back the shoots to a few buds at the base causes more shoots to grow. Precisely the same thing will happen if a shoot of one of these fruit trees is similarly treated, i.e., more wood growths will result. Now this is just what the fruit- grower does not want. It is evident then that pruning must be carefully carried out. Fruit spurs form naturally upon the shoots if these are not cut hard back. The motto of the fruit-grower should be to cut out rather than to cut back, for by cutting back more shoots will be incited to form, whereas by removing those for which there is no room, the others are allowed proper space for development. So much for the prin- cipal shoots. The production of spurs upon them is encouraged by arresting the growth of side shoots during summer by pinching off the tops, so as to help the formation of fruit buds at the base. These must be shortened at the winter pruning. In the case of the Morello Cherry and the Peach the fruit is produced directly on the shoots. Therefore they must be retained almost their full length, and must be cut out to make room for others when the fruit is gathered. We do not pretend to have entered deeply into the methods of pruning, but rather wish to show how important it is to know something of plants or trees before starting to prune them. With fruit trees even certain varieties need a special pruning, because of some peculiar characteristic they possess, either of habit of growth or manner of bearing. The person who prunes every tree alike without troubling to learn something about it beforehand can never hope to achieve success, neither, may it be said, does he deserve it. OSTROWSKIA MAGNIFICA. The opinion expressed in The Garden some time back that this noble plant is not "hardy" in this country tempts me to say a few words about it. Let me first say that such adjectives as magnifica, superba, and the like go, with me, very much against the grain. I start with a prejudice against plants bearing such titles, and I think that nothing would induce me to take an interest in a plant dubbed superbissima. But Ostrowskia really deserves its title ; when on a bright summer's day its large cups unfold (and one may watch the unfolding of the plaited corolla) themselves before one's eyes, the disappointments and drawbacks of gardening, the things which will not come on or will go off, are forgotten in the joy of gazing at its beauty. As to its being hardy, in the sense of resisting the frost and the other ills of an English winter, I can only say that I received my first plant years ago from that generous friend of English gardeners, now passed to the majority. Dr. Regel of St. Petersburg. It has passed, since it came to me, several severe winters on my bleak Eastern Counties hill, without any protection, and is alive and well now. There can be no question whatever about its being hardy. Yet it is not, according to my experience, an easy plant to grow well. It needs two conditions, so it seems to me, which are not often met with together in our English climate. After it has died down, during late autumn and winter, it needs, or perhaps I should rather say it likes, to be kept fairly dry. This condition I can, with relative success, meet on my chalk hill. My present gardener, who came to me from damper regions, is never tired of expressing his wonder at finding the ground " dry as dust " when he digs down into it for a couple of feet or so in midwinter. But though Ostrowskia likes thus to be in dry quarters during its winter sleep, it needs, when it is pushing in spring, and especially when it is growing fast in summer, conditions of quite a different kind. Stinted of water then, its foliage is limp or even shrivels, neither flowers nor leaves expand as they ought to do, and the plant loses more than half its beauty. It is then that my bad time comes ; for no artificial watering will do fully that which ought to be done by natural moisture, and I often recognise that what I have gained in winter I am apt to lose in summer. This trouble of not enough water in late spring and summer comes very much to the front in the treatment of seedlings of this plant. Ostrowskia is not a very good seed- bearer. The capsules, it is true, go through the first stages of maturation fairly well, but before the work is hardly more than half done — certainly before the capsules are reallyripe — come the late summer rains ; many of the pods get mildewed, and bear imperfect seeds. Hence 50 THE GAKDEN. [January 28, 1905. it is a matter of importance to take the best care of such seeds as one can get. I sow the seed in the open, believing this to be with this plant, as with so many others, the best course, and if spring showers are adequately frequent all goes well ; but if, as more often happens in my garden, placed as it is in " the belt of least rainfall " in England, spring is marked by long droughts, the seedlings suffer sadly ; the leaves wither away before they have had time to form the little white tubers which they ought to form, and the seedling dies before it can com- plete its allotted cycle. Another difficulty in the cultivation of Ostrowskia is that the plant resents being moved ; at least, when it has got beyond the first or second year. The succulent Parsnip- like tubers are excessively brittle, and it requires the greatest car* to remove a two year old or three year old tuber without breaking it. When they are older than this removal withent breakage is almost impossible. A broken bit possessing an eye or bud will or may grow again into a strong plant, but it will take some time to do this. And even a whole tuber, removed without any damage whatever, will sulk ; the year after removal it will appear a weakly thing, very diiferent from what it was before removal, but, left alone, it will come up stronger and stronger every year. It is some- thing we do not understand — this shock to what seems a self-contained mass of living matter given by mere removal from its sur- roundings. And even when the tuber is broken tin the removal it would almost seem as if the mere removal did more damage than does the 'breakage. When in the attempt to remove a tuber, this is broken and part is left in the ground, the broken part left in the ground is almost sure to grow again, while the .part which is removed may or may not .grow. I had a plant which was placed in a shallow small bed in front of a low •wall. It did not prosper ; the situation was obviously too dry a one for it in summer. •So, as I thought, I removed it, but I broke it in the removal. Of the pieces removed some ■died, others, after a period of sulk, grew into good plants. I planted another plant, an Iris cretica, in the place from which I had, as I thought, removed the Ostrowskia ; but in the following spring the Ostrowskia speared again, and eventually grew into a plant which, though not such a fine plant as it would have been elsewhere, flourished sufficiently well to play havoc with the little I. cretica which I had iput in its place. Last summer my gardener and I made a great excavation round the tuber, working away most carefully as if we were un- earthing precious ancient delicate pottery, and succeeded in taking away a whole basketful of pieces of tuber, and leaving as we thought ■nothing behind. My gardener is perfectly sure that we have taken all away ; I shall be con- vinced of this when I see that nothing appears this summer. We found that the tuber had grown vigorously into the pure chalk under- lying some li feet or more of made soil, and had burrowed underneath the foundations of the low wall. Ostrowskia is obviously not a ""' lime-hating " plant. In my own plants, imported plants and seed- lings, I recognise two varieties of flower, one a white, tinted with red, the other a white, tinted with blue or bluish purple. And in «ome very fine plants, for which I have to thank Mr. Amos Perry, I do not recognise more than these two types, though some of his plants and mine differ in the amount of tint, in the .amount of divergence from pure white. Some perhaps appear to show the beginnings of a .fuller colour. A " break " in the colour of the plant would be a great gain. Difterences may also be observed in the size, and to a certain extent in the form of the flower, some being flatter and more open than others, and also in the foliage and habit. Ostrowskia seems then, according to niy ex- perience, to enjoy a deep, somewhat stifl' loam, to like lime, and otherwise to repay being well fed. It needs shelter from winds, but must have full sunshine. It resents wet in winter, but must have adequate moisture in spring and summer. If it does well in a place never move it, rather move things away from it if these are troubling it. It is so good that many things may be sacrificed in order that it may show what a noble plant it is. M. Foster. Great Shelford, Cambridgeshire. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and in- teresting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand. A Bkeath of Spring from Scotland. Mr. J. .Jeffrey, The Gardens, St. Mary'.i Isle, Kirkcudbright, sends Snowdrops, Crocuses, Violets, Pansies, and other flowers that appeared without any protection. They are sent to show how mild the Scottish climate is on the south-west coast. Our correspondent writes : "Snowdrops are quite a month late, but are now plentiful. I am still able to gather over a dozen bunches of Violets weekly from a small plot of ground." Flowers from Monkstowx. A delightful variety of flowers comes from Mr. Greenwood Pim, Easton Lodge, Monkstown, County Dublin, with the following note: "I enclose a few odds and ends for the Editor's Table — Crocus Imperati, C. Sieberi from the open ground, also varieties of C^'clamen Coum, Iris stylosa, white and mauve, and various Lenten Roses. From under glass I send Restrepia antennifera and Reinwardtia trigynum, which gives a bright note of yellow at a very dull season. C. Imperati may always be found in flower on Christmas Day or before." The Restrepia is full of charm, the colouring rich, and the form of the flower quaint and unusual. Erica mediterranea hybrida. Messrs. .James Smith, Darley Dale Nurseries, send flowers of this beautiful Heath, with the following note : " We are sending you flowers of Erica mediterranea hybrida, which was raised in these nurseries some years ago. Each shoot is tipped with white during the summer. The plants have been in bloom since the beginning of Decem- ber at an altitude of .500 feet above sea-level, and they succeed best in dry loamy soil. It is a valuable acquisition to hardy Heaths." The following reference to it occurs in "Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens " : "A hybrid between E. mediterranea and E. carnea (sold under the name of mediterranea hybrida) has been seen much of late, and is a very welcome little shrub, flowers appearing in some years even in November. Ever}' year some expand before Christmas, and during January it is the brightest plant in the outdoor garden." NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 31. — Meeting of the Redhill, Reigate, and District Gardening Society. February 1. — SheflSeld Horticultural Society's meeting. February 4. — French Horticultural Society of London's meeting. February 6. — ilansfleld Horticultural Society's meeting. February 7. — Sevenoaks Horticultural Society's meeting. February S. — Sheffield Chrysanthemum Society's meeting. February 10. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund Annual Meeting. Mp. Richard Dean.-Many who attended the great gathering of British gardeners on Sep- tember 29, 1903, will remember the eloquent speech delivered by Mr. Richard Dean. This speech has been published under the title of " A Plea for Human Sympathy." "Let it," says Mr. Dean, " be as a hardy perennial, rooting deeply into our hearts and memories, constantly reminding us that the helpfulness which is our privilege to-day may be changed into helplessness to-morrow." Rose Mamie (Hybrid Tea).— Under glass this Rose is a gem, every flower as perfect as Mrs. W. .J. Grant. The colour when forced is a lovely fresh pink, and the blossoms are very sweet. Grown outdoors its colour is not quite so pleasing, but for form it will well hold its own. Mamie would make a good Rose for a pillar or to plant against a low fence or wall. It will also be a most useful kind for a standard, producing long half- pendulous shoots. — P. Tlie Chilian Croeus.— I thought it might interest some of the readers of The Garden if I sent a note about our Chilian Crocus (Tecophilsea). They have proved perfectly hardy here and bloom well. We have them planted at the foot of a wall, about 3 inches deep, and under the shelter of a stone coping on top of the wall. The other lot of bulbs we did not get under the shelter of the coping, so that they were exposed to drip during the autumn and winter of 1903. In the spring we had the coping extended. I may say that the drip did not hurt them in a-iy way. Tecophila^a cyanocrocus varies in colour, some being verj' light and some very dark, not showing the white throat. When in bloom they are beautiful ; the colour is such a splendid blue. We also have a good lot of seedlings growing well. The most suitable soil is one free from lime. We mix peat, sandy loam, leaf-soil, and sand together, making a compost similar to that used for Achimenes. We take out the soil about 9 inches deep, then put our mixture in, make a hole with the dibber, and put the bulb in sand. After they are established they do well. The garden must be as free as possible from slugs. — John Tweed, Ketton, Siamford. Primrose iVIiss Massey.— " R D.'s" note in your issue of the 14th inst. was of much interest to me, as I also have found this Primrose to be an undoubtedly shy seeder. I have pollinated scores of blooms since I first possessed it, and have only ripened one seed. This was in the autumn of 1900, and I was fortunate in raising from it a fine, sturdy plant, which flowered in May, 1902'. Th« foliage is bold and handsome, the plant vigorous, and the colour of the flowers dark crimson ; so dark, indeed, that they appear to have a black sheen or shading. Although it is consequently not so bright and showy in the border as Miss Massev, it is, nevertheless, a handsome variety. The indi- vidual pips are Ig inches in diameter and perfectly circular, but, unfortunately, "pin-eyed." More unfortunately still, the plant inherits the sterile tendency so characteristic of its seed-parent, for in spite of three years' systematic and careful pollination no seed has been produced. I think I remember Mr. R. Dean stating, some time ago, that he had obtained several fine plump seeds from Miss Masse}'. Perhaps he will say what success he had with them. — Sidjiey Hallam, Shejjkld. January 28, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 61 Rose Josephine BernaechL— It must be because this Rose is not known that one does not meet with it in many collections. It is usually looked upon as being a climber, but if the shoots are left long the variety will blossom as freely as an ordinary bush Rose. The colour is pale yellow, and the flowers of large size, the buds being as clean and pretty as are those of Mme. Hoste. If we want good yellow Roses, the so-called climbers must not be ignored. Where can we find a more useful golden Rose than Bouquet d'Or? Billiard et Barr^, too, and Mme. Charles Monnier are exquisite Roses, all suitable for growing as bushes. — P. Royal Hopticultupal Society of Perthshire. — At a meeting of the Town Council of Perth, held on the 9th inst. , a proposal to present a challenge cup of the value of £10 to the Royal Horticultural Society of Perthshire was under consideration. The proposal was made in view of this being the centenary of the establish- ment of the society, and it was agreed, by fourteen votes to three, to present the cup. Potato Eastern Star.— A slight error appeared in my note on the above in the issue of The Garden of the 31st ult. (page 447). It reads, " Grown under equal conditions, the raiser, Mr. J. H. Ridgwell of Potato fame, assures me that from forty sets of this and Northern Star he obtained jcwt. more from the latter, and no trace of disease." I intended it to read, "It produced ^cwt. more than Northern Star." — E. Beckett. "My Garden Diary."— Those who want to be reminded what to do in their garden in 1905, and when to do it, should obtain a copy of the booklet which Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, publish annually under the above title. Each month's work in all departments is olearlj- set out. At the end of the booklet there are some extremely useful notes ; for instance, the reader learns a good deal about bulbs. Lilies especially, and is taught the secret of success with certain flower seeds, noto- riously difficult to raise. Then there are lists of bedding annuals, climbing annuals, everlasting flowers, and edging plants. In conclusion remedies for the commonest garden pests are given. "The Formation and Manage- ment of Lawns."— This is the title of a booklet of some fifty pages, issued by Messrs. James Carter and Co., High Holborn. The in- formation it contains will be found invaluable by those who have lawns to make and to keep in order. Instructions are given as to preparation of the surface, sowing, and after-treatment of a new lawn. The renovation of a worn-out turf is also considered, and there is a good article upon "How to Maintain a Liwn in Good Condition." The best manures, the selection of seed, hints on mowing-machines, and numerous other items are dealt with. FORCING STRAWBERRIES. No fruits are more appreciated than early - forced Strawberries. They ripen at a time when choice fruits for dessert are not plentiful, and supply a want that is considerably felt without them. The work of preparing the plants is important, for unless this part of the management has been skilfully carried out no after cultural attention will wholly compensate for it. For this season's forcing, how- ever, it is now too late to rectify defects, and therefore my remarks will be restricted to more seasonable work. A good method commonly practised for starting plants into growth after they have been properly top-dressed with a rich compost is to plunge the pots in a bed of warm leaves, placed near the glass of a pit that commands an atmospheric temperature of 50°, and subse- quently, as soon as the flower-buds can be discerned, to move the plants into warmer quarters, where they are placed upon shelves near the glass in a light house. With us, however, success is secured by starting the plants in pits upon removable stages, placed near the glass over beds of warm leaves, which subsequently supply bottom - heat for Melons, &c. The flowering season is a critical time, especially in the case of early-forced fruit, when the state of the weather is not usually naturally favourable for fertilisation. This may be satisfactorily effected, nevertheless, by keeping the heating apparatus warm, and the atmosphere fairly dry and sweet by slightly opening regularly both the front and back ventilators, and if these conditions are accom- panied, as is necessary, by that of distributing the pollen of the blossoms at midday, when it is perfectly dry, with the aid of a camel-hair brush. P NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. ALPINE PINKS. INKS, with their broad carpets of hand- some foliage studded in spring and early summer with numerous flowers, may with justice be termed one of the chief ornaments of the rock garden ; one thac lacked a few representatives of this , , genus would be strangely incomplete. Consisting, a good set of fruit will be ensured. No trouble ' as it does, of a large number of different kinds, the should be considered too great perfectly to fertilise genus contains various species which mav be used the flowers, for unless this is properly accomplished for many positions in the rock garden. Some are the fruit will fail to swell properly. Another at home on sunny ledges, where their foliage forms important matter is that of thinning the fruit, j a curtain over the face of the rocks ; others may be This should be done as soon as it can be ob- served that sufficient leading berries are swelling to produce a satisfactory crop. These should be sup- ported by stakes, or other similar means, so that they are fully exposed to the air and light. After the fruit is set a higher tempera- ture should be main- tained, 70" at night, with a corresponding day rise is suitable, but in order to obtain a high degree of flavour and colour — attributes which are, unfortu- nately, too often lacking in the case of forced Strawberries — a comparatively free cir- culation of warm air must be maintained through the structure from the time the fruit begins to colour until it ripens. Mistakes are often made through gathering the fruit as soon as it is red, though before it is perfectly ripe, and in consequence rich flavour is wanting. Of all cultural details connected with this sub- ject none is more im- portant than that of watering, especially during the forcing period. If the plants do not receive regular and otherwise thorough attention in this way irreparable mischief will be done, for once the plants suffer from an insufficient supply of root moisture the fruit fails to develop satis- factorily. It is desirable for those responsible for crops of this planted while very small in rocky fissures or in the kind to select a trustworthy man to water them. | cracks of old walls,, where they quickly take hold. Liquid manure is equally important, and should be sending their roots down in search of moisture, and discreetly used from the time the roots of the soon forming beautiful evergreen tufls. There are plants become active until the fruit begins to one or two which do not flourish under these change cjlour, while similar remarks apply to conditions, but require more shad3' places in which syringing in order to keep down attacks of red to develop their full beauty, and some from higher spider. Discontinue this while the plants are in altitudes need specially selected positions for their flower and the fruit is ripening. successful cultivation. Amongst the more robust Much forethought and diligence are needful to : spreading species Dianthus pluniarius, with its keep up a continuous supply of ripe fruit, but numerous and varied forms, easilv takes first place, by painstaking management in introducing fresh growing almost anywhere, self - sown seedlingi batches of plants, accompanied by a knowledge springing up in various places around the old of the characters of the varieties grown, this plants. This may with advantage be used for becomes an easy matter. Here it is managed covering the rougher parts and banks of the rock successfully with one sort only, viz.. Royal , garden as well as old walls. Sovereign, though a few others are usually grown s-A plant with a much neater habit is our native inasmall way ^either for variety's sake or for trial, pink, D. Ciesius, which will succeed in similar The Hendre Gardens, Monmouth. T. Coombbr. positions. Of this species there are several forms. ALPINE PINKS IN THE ROCK GARDEN. 52 THE GARDEN. [January 28, 1905. some with stems 2 inches or 3 inolies high, and bearing large single flowers, while others have branching stems and reach a height of (3 inches or more. D. petra;u3 is another species that forms large tufts of foliage with numerous small white flowers, while an old favourite is T>. arenarius with its deeply-fringed blossoms. A shade-loving plant is D. sylveslris, which forms tufts of grass-like foliage and freely produced pretty pink flowers on stalks about 6 inches or 9 inches high. Almost the same habit as the last, but with longer grassy foliage and larger flowers, with a dark-bearded zone, is the beautiful D. monspessulanus. All these are easy to manage, and form a selection suitable for the ordinary rock garden. For those who have a taste for choicer and rarer plants that require a little more attention, there is the alpine Pink (D. alpinus), which may be grown in a sunny posi- tion planted in gritty loam. Others well worth growing are D. neglectus and D. glacialis, the latter of which benefits by the addition of granite chippings to the soil in which it is planted. Another, and one of the most beautiful, is the zoned Pink (D. callizonus), which requires a slightly shady spot. All are readily raised from seed sown in spring in slight heat. When large enough they should be pricked off into small pots, from which they may be transferred to their permanent quarters. W. Irvixg. could be used effectively as a marginal patch in herba- ceous borders as one would use Aubrietia. Every bit of stem will root and grow freely if severed in the spring, whilst seeds are sometimes to be purchased and are easy to have in flower the first season. In the south patches square yards in extent are often met with. G. B. M. THE MANCHURIAN ADONIS. The Manchurian Adonis (A. amurensis), which came to us anew about eight years ago, when it was figured in The Garden (.July 3, 1897), has proved of more than ordinary interest to the British gardener. Not only is it the finest plant of a showy race, but so wonderfully precocious, and, thoufjh apparently frail, so wonderfully hardy, that the first half of .January generally finds it iu good flower. The buds have been visible since mid-December, piercing the soil when covered with snow, and they have grown steadily with every hour of warm sunshine, and are now in full blossom. The stems are still under 1 foot in length, and the leafage is still only partially developed, but in a few days the plants will resemble miniature Ferulas, and many subsidiary buds will be open also. The flowers are coloured a beautiful bright yellow, with ruddy bronze reverse of petal, and they exceed 1 inch in diameter, several approaching "2 inches when fully developed. It is very easy to grow, and will accommodate itself to any position or soil, but, like most Ranun- culaceiE, it appreciates a cool, moist soil. I have seen five distinct forms, one semi-double and somewhat pallid in colour, but think the type the best plant for extended garden use. The warm border or rookery are places one could suggest for it, whilst for the cool alpine house, grown in roomy pans without disturbance, year after year, it is the plant p«r excellence for the winter season. G. B. M. THE BLUE-FLOWERED SHAMROCK. This little rock plant (Parochetus communis), also known as the Shamrock Pea, comes to us from Nepaul, and it is so charming throughout the summer that one can recommend it for any warm position on rockwork where it could ramble at will. One hesitates to call it rare, yet it is so in reality, a circumstance due mainly to its being neglected or overlooked when planting time comes round. It is a little tender — hard winters buffet it severely — and it is generally advisable to take up a " turf" of it for cold frame treatment throughout the winter. The leaves are three-lobed as in the Shamrock, and are borne on running stems that soon cover a square foot of soil. The flowers are exceedingly pretty, shaped like the Sweet Pea and coloured a beautiful sky blue. It is a plant one should grow like Nierembergia, a small patch being allotted to it, and the surface covered with large pebbles or broken rock. The growths pushing up here and there in a thin carpet, each bearing their quota of flowers, add much to the interest of the rockery when many of its occupants have passed their beat. It is as easy to grow as the commonest weed, yet the prettiest plant of its order for the rock garden I know. It WITCH HAZELS AT KEW. During the early days of January the brightest outdoor efi'ect at Kew is produced by various species and varieties of Hamamelis, for, although several other outdoor plants are in bloom, they do not bear such a profusion of flowers as the Hama- melis. Single specimens and groups are to be found in various parts of the gardens, and this year their bright appearance is particularly pleasing after the gloom of the foggy weather experienced in December. Including species and varieties, four blossom in January, all being more showy than the autumn-flowering H. virginica. As to the number of species, authorities differ, some making but three, including H. virginica, others four. Those who incline to three species place H. arborea as a variety of H. japonica, others keeping them distinct. The flowers of the two are certainly very similar, the principal difference being in H. japonica having a greenish calyx, and H. arborea a reddish brown one. The habits of the two are, however, quite distinct, for while H. japonica forms a rather dense bush, H. arborea is of loose appearance, and forms a distinct central stem, in time assuming the pro- portions of a small tree. Both are fragrant, and the petals of each have the same wavy or twisted character, and are of a similar golden hue. Both are Japanese plants, and H. arborea was figured as H. japonica in the Botanical llagar.ine, t. 6659. H. japonica var. zuccariniana is a very distinct form, with lemon-coloured blossoms. At present (January G) every twig is smothered with flowers. The fourth plant is H. mollis, a Chinese species which is still rare, having been put into commerce but a few years ago. It differs from the other two by its large, ovate, woolly leaves ; by its stems, especially when young, being covered with a dense pubescence ; by its soft, velvety, brown calyx, and by its straighter petals, which are curved inwards to form a small hook at the end. The blossoms are primrose-scented, and very fragrant. When mature it is said to attain a height of 30 feet, but, like the others, it commences to blossom early, and specimens but a few inches high will bear numerous flowers. The Hamamalis are not difficult shrubs to cultivate. They like a light, loamy soil, and a sunny position ; they will also thrive in a mixture of peat and sandy soil. W. Dallimore. THE LYRE FLOWER. Among the valuable plants too little cultivated is the beautiful and graceful Lyre flower, or Bleeding Heart. This is one of Robert Fortune's flowers, brought by him from China in 1846, and it was speedily established in English gardens. The Lyre flower, as it is called from the suggestive form of its quaint waxlike flowerets, is known botanicilly as Dielytra spectabilis, but some authorities, among whom I notice Mr. Robinson, c^ll it DiceiUra spectabilis, and I fancy this is the more correct designation. As it is a Fume-wort, Linn;eus, who never saw it save in a dried state, called it Fumaria spectabilis. Though it was brought to these islands from China it is a native of Siberia, and was first introduced to European botanists by de Karamyschew, who first told LinniEus of its existence. Fortune tells us that the Chinese botanists call it Hong-Pak-Moutan- Wha, or the red and white Moutan flower. It seems that the Chinese botanists do not take the characteristics of their genera from the flowers as we do, but from the habits and appearance of the plants. The leaves of the Dicentra spectabilis are not unlike those of the wild Moutan P;eony, and the flowers are red and white, hence the Chinese name. It is interesting to note these simple facts concerning the nomenclature of our familiar garden flowers. It is strange that the Lyre flower, being a native of the cold regions of Siberia, fhould be really only half-hardy in our milder climate ; but I fancy it is not so much a dry still cold that affects it as the icy winds of March. It is best to plant it in some sheltered spot, and after it has begun its spring growth to protect its young foliage. But it is really most satisfactory as a greenhouse plant, as it is easily grown, and is absolutely free from green fly or any insect pests. The stems die down after flowering, and then the plant, which is a thirsty subject, must be only moderately supplied with water. In the spring the growth will re- commence, and it must be kept moist ; the roots may then be sub-divided, or cuttings of the young wood taken, which will strike freely in sand. There are other Dielytras, or Dicentras. Chry- santha is a flne yellow border plant, but wants shelter, and there is a little rock variety, Dielytra Cucullaria, which is more curious ttiat pretty. Dielytra eximia is extremely handsome with reddish purple blossoms, and is also useful for pot cultiva- tion and for the rockery. This last sort has a leaf something like Fern, which is yellowish green in tint. There is also, I believe, a white Dicentra spectabilis, but I have heard it spoken of as being of little floral value. A. DE L. L. SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA VAR. MA.JOR. This is already in flower here (9th inst.) ; it is always looked upon as one of the earliest of alpine flowers, but it is certainly much earlier in flower here than usual. To these children of the snow we always give a more than cordial welcome. Coming as they do from the Southern and Eastern Alps the plants, which are now making such a gallant display, have been grown in pots plunged in sea-sand and fully exposed to the full sun for a couple of years. There are now several beautiful hybrids of Saxifraga burseriana in commerce, the best of which is S. Boydii, well known to all plant-lovers, but it is still extremely rare in culti- vation. It appears to grow much better in the North than our more southern counties. Southport. W. H. Stansfibld. POTATOES FOR 1905. ITH catalogues coming in by every post, one is reminded Wthat the time is at hand for placing seed orders, and doubt- less many are undecided as to which varieties of Potato shall be grown this year. Truly there is no lack of choice, and this is just where the difficulty comes in, for since the beginning of the boom new varieties have followed each other into the market with amazing rapidity. From the recent articles which have appeared in The Garden respecting the doubtful eating qualities of some of the newer Potatoes, it is evident that considerable care is needed in selection on this account alone, though the fact also remains that proof respecting the flavour of Potatoes must remain more or less a question of individual experiment, because soil has such an influence, and a variety which is hardly eatable in one district may be quite good in another. There is no advantage to be gained in delaying the Ordering or Seed Potatoes any longer, for it is not only unlikely that the price of useful varieties will fall lower, but the man who neglects the ordering of seed Potatoes till he wants to plant them takes the risk of receiving the unsatisfactory news that the varieties he has set his heart on are sold out. Another thing, it is quite evident that the late purchaser does not get the pick of the mer- chant's stock, and therefore, in order to ensure getting good seed, there is wisdom in ordering early. Thirdly, if seed Potatoes are obtained now, there is plenty of time for laying them out or fixing them up in shallow boxes or January 28, 1905,] THE GARDEN. 53 trays to sprout, and it is a generally recognised advantage to have each seed tuber furnished with a stiflF bristling sprout when it is con- signed to the ground. Lastly, there is a comfortable feeling in knowing that you have got your stock of seed tubers all ready for planting. Though, of course, a good many crops will be grown this season from home-saved tubers, there never was a time when more seed Potatoes were purchased in the early spring than now, and the good reason for this is not far to seek. Never were growers more alive to the advantages of frequent change of seed than now, and by change I mean radical change, not merely crossing from one side of a garden or parish to another. Even such changes as these may be good, but it is infinitely better to get seed Potatoes from another district altogether, and it is generally admitted now that there are no seed Potatoes for English soil like those grown in Scotland. Men engaged in the Potato trade are aware of this, and most of the leading firms dealing in seed tubers have them grown north of the Tweed. The renewed interest taken in Potatoes since the boom began has led to considerable experi- ment, and the general opinion is that frequent change is one of the chief essentials to success. Sentiment must play a very little part in our Potato culture, and though we may have varieties for which we have a marked afiection, it must not be forgotten that varieties of Potato are ordained by Nature to die out, and no matter how good a Potato may be, its period of usefulness is limited. In consequence of this, we must change varieties as well as seed, and though there is no need for the same fre- quency in the former case as in the latter, when a variety begins to show signs of deterioration, it should be allowed to give way to something else possessing vitalities as yet unimpaired. When we come to discuss the question as to which are the best varieties to grow, the situation becomes more difiioult. To begin I with, every Potato grower wants one or two good Eaely Varieties, and if one has good soil and a warm situation, and wishes for high quality alone, irrespective of crop, one of the early Ashleafs will supply the need ; but most of us, I think, aim at good quality, in conjunction with vigour and heavy cropping powers, and in this case the variety named can be improved upon. Ringleader and Duke of York are Potatoes too well known to need any long descrip- tion here; but I question whether we have got anything better in the way of early varieties. The variety Sir John Llewelyn has made a name for itself as a first-rate early, and though some people are disappointed with its eating qualities, I have no hesitation in adding its name to the above pair, though I do not think Sir John Llewelyn is quite early enough to be relied on for the first dishes. In the way of Second Eaelies, Royal Kidney is a Potato well worth growing, and ever since it made its appearance in 1901 it has gradually worked its way to the front. I have grown it for two seasons, and am well pleased with its cropping powers, eating qualities, and disease-resisting I capacities. I am afraid the rush of new Potatoes during the past few seasons has led to some older, yet excellent, varieties being discarded, and a ; case in point is British Queen. Though some- what liable to disease, this is an excellent second early variety, and for flavour I question whether it has any superior amorgst higher- priced novelties. In fact, British Queen is far too good a Potato to be overlooked amid the rush of new varieties. If I were confined to One Potato for Main Crop I should not hesitate to grow The Factor, which is certainly one of the best in cultiva- tion, both as regards cropping powers, eating qualities, and disease-resisting capacities. As most people are aware. The Factor is a Scotch Potato, and amid the boom of sensations it has worked its way to the front by sheer merit alone. In fact, when such a variety as this can be obtained at ordinary prices, I see no reason for paying long prices for boomed novelties which one has to take entirely on trust. I could, of course, mention several other first-rate main crop varieties ; but my object in writing this article is only to speak of a fevr good ones as a guide to any growers who are at a loss to know what to choose from the stupendous array of Potatoes now on the market. G. H. H. THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE SNOWDROPS. OF the many bulbous plants that one I can grow in an English garden I none appeals more strongly to the average Englishman than his patch of Snowdrops, and it is more than probable that the first flower of the year gives him more real pleasure than any of the showy plants of summer. The hunt for the first Snowdrop would doubtless lose zest were it generally known that several flower naturally in late autumn, and others in regular sequence till the end of April ; but these earlier varieties are not likely to become so widespread as the common Snowdrop — in truth, they are rather difficult to manage. The giant Snowdrops, also, fail to please everyone ; they are too large, and not always satisfactory in growth. The so-called yellow Snowdrops, though extremely interesting as variations, look too sickly to give pleasure, and they are delicate. j I think these colour variations fall an easy I prey to the Snowdrop fungus. They do not appear to have sufficient constitution to make useful garden plants in their present state, and one can only recommend them as interesting subjects to study and develop, with a view to fixing the yellow colouring so that it is perpetuated in seedlings, which by selection and hybridisation may originate a wholly yellow-flowered race. There are many Snowdrops quite unknown to general cultivation. Several of these are either giants or remarkable for their flowering season, and have only been introduced a few years ; but many of the varieties of the common Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) have been handed down by the specialists of quite early times. G.AUeni (Baker) is one of the rarest species, and a very beautiful Snowdrop it is (see illus- tration). It has cone-shaped flowers above 1 inch long, the petals of which are pure white, and crimped into a distinctly large horseshoe- like patch of green just below the wavy fold of the tips. It is very distinct, sturdy, and midway between the Caucasian Snowdrop (G. caucasicus) and G. latifolius as to suggest hybrid origin. It flowers in .spring. G. hyzantinus is a strong-growing Snowdrop, with large bulbs much prolonged in the neck. The leaves resemble those of the Crimean Snowdrop (G. plicatus), but have rolled margins, not sharply reflexed. The flowers appear in January, and are under 1 inch long, narrow-petalled, but shapely ; the inner seg- ments nave deeply-cleft lobes, and they are A RARE SNOWDROP (GALANTHUS ALLEN l). 54 THE GARDEN. [January 28, 1905 Kreen-tipped, entirely green on the inside, and just below the ovary on the outside. It precedes the common Snowdrop in order of flowering. G. caucasicus (the Caucasian Snowdrop) (Baker) is a distinct type, very prolific, and an advance on the common G. nivalis, to which it is closely allied. It varies slightly in the size of its flowers and leaves, but the latter are erect-growing, broader than in the common Soowdrop, and very stout. The flowers are under 1 inch long, the outer petals of which are narrow at the claw, contracted at the middle so that the distended half of the petals appears spoon-shaped, very convex, and the inner petals are more fully revealed when the flower is closed than in any other species. The green spotting does not difl^er from that of G. nivalis. Numerous forms have from time to time been separated, the most distinct of which is virescens, whose outer petals are flushed green, as in the spring Snowflake (Leucojum vernum), but the colouring is more diffuse. This variety is often described as typical G. caucasicus, and the green outer petals are cited as a distinguishing character. It follows the common Snowdrop in order of flowering. (To he co7iiinuecl. ) Prima Donna and Countess Spencer, pink ; Duchess of Sutherland, blush ; Navy Blue and Countess Cadogan, blue ; Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon, yellow (so called) ; Miss Willmott, orange ; Lady Grizel Hamilton, lavender ; Mrs. Walter Wright, mauve ; Duke of West- minster, violet ; George Gordon, magenta ; Black Knight, maroon : Dainty, Picotee-edged; America, red striped ; Princess of Wales, purple striped ; Jeannie Gordon, bicolor ; and Gracie Greenwood and Agnes Johnston, fancy. All of these came very high in the classification of varieties conducted by the National Sweet Pea Society last season. Horace J. Weight. WOEMS AND GOLF GREENS AND LAWNS. We have heard a good deal about Carter's Worm Killer for lawns and golf greens, and wrote to Mr. Lees, keeper of the raid-Surrey Golf Club, for his opinion. We publish his reply: "In answer to your letter re 'Carter's Worm Killer' and the wholesale slaughter of worms, I may tell you I have, since September last year, used several tons of the mixture on my putting greens here with most beoefieial results. I have no doubt you would see in some of the London papers letters condemning my action in killing all the worms in my greens, as they said I was at the same time killing the grass by removing the drainage, but should the same people come here now and see the splendid results I have obtained by removing the mnjorily of the worms — as it is almost an impossi- bility to kill every one — they might, perhaps, give me credit for knowing just a little more about the matter than they do themselves. Theory is one thing, practice is another; theirs was theory, mine was practice. I knew what I was about. I left one green just to satisfy anyone who thought I was doing wrong. I am killing the worms enlirelj' at the first favourable opportunity. The mixture seems to act as a manure at the same time, as in a day or two the grass comeaup very fresh. Toinland greenkeepers I think it invaluable, as worms seem to multiply more quickly on the putting greens, and I think the continual roiling of the greens has a lot to do with this, so that in wet weather what with the sweeping and rolling of the casts made by the ■worms a paste is formed on ihe surface, and the air prevented from getting at the roots of the grass, and, of course, it dies out. I use a large quantity of sea sand well rubbed in with a rake to keep the surface of my greens open so that the air can get in. 1 could say more about this subject, but I think I have given you all the information you want. I have only to say that this 'killer' is the best I have ever tried, and there is no risk in using it." SELECTIONS OF SWEET PEAS. It is obviously impossible for anyone to give an exhaustive selection in a limited space, so I will content myself now with naming a set of twenty-four standard sorts that are in general cultivation, and which will meet the require- men's of the majority of growers. Dorothy Eckford, white; Mont Blanc, tor early flowering; King Edward VII. and Salopian, crimson ; Prince of Wales and Lord Rosebery, rose ; YEW HEDGES. How TO Make and How to Keep Them. NOTHING sets a garden off better than a well-kept hedge, while an untidy and ill-kept hedge spoils the effect of any amount of neatness in other parts of the garden. Several plants make good hedges, but for an inside hedge the common Yew holds the premier position, both for effect and for the ease with which it can be kept in good condition. No plant is more amenable to the shears, which is shown by the various specimens of topiary work in this country when it is clipped into fantastic shapes of animals, birds, pagodas, &c. The making of a Yew hedge, however, requires a certain amount of forethought to ensure success, as any mistakes or improper work at the start will show themselves within a year or two, and it will take a considerable amount of time and labour to put matters right. In the first place the site of the hedge should be staked out, and if stakes of about the height of the pro- posed hedge are used, and put in about 10 yards apart, a rough idea of what the finished hedge will look like can be obtained, and any alteration required be eifected at once. After the length and height of the hedge have been decided on, a start should be made at once to prepare the ground for the plants, and this must be thoroughly done, as upon it the future well-being of the hedge almost entirely depends. Prevaring the ground. — The ground should be trenched 3 feet wide and about 3 feet deep, but the depth will have to depend on the nature of the subsoil, though the ground must be broken quite 3 feet deep. If the subsoil is found to be very wet, drains must be put in to carry off the super- abundant water. These should be ordinary round agricultural drains, and be laid a,t right angles to the line of the hedge about 4 feet deep, though the depth must be according to the slope of the ground and the fall that can be obtained to carry off the water. From 1.5 yards to 20 yards or even more will be sufficient distance for the drains, as the aim is only to carry off the extra water that would otherwise stagnate and rot the roots, and not to make the ground thoroughly dry. Yews like a moderately moist soil, but anything approaching stagnation is fatal to them. To trench the ground a portion about '2 feet wide should be marked off, and the soil taken out and wheeled to the other end to fill up the last trench. If any poor sand or gravel or clay is encountered in the lower part of the trench, enough of it should be thrown out to make the trench from 2^ feet to 3 feet deep, and the bottom should also be broken deeply to allow water to pass through. Another length of ground should then be marked off, and the soil turned over into the trench already made, rejecting all poor ground as before. The part taken away must be replaced by good soil brought to the spot. If the trenching is thoroughly done from end to end of the proposed hedge, a good and uniform depth of soil will be obtained for the plants to grow in. A laj'er of well-rotted manure should be worked in about 18 inches from the surface, but no lower, as if put at the bottom of the trench, which is some- times advised, the goodness of the manure is washed down into the subsoil, where it is of no use whatever to the plants. Th': planti. — Having prepared the ground before- hand, the next step is to procure the plants, the size of which will, of course, depend upon the height required. Yews of almost any height up to S feet can be bought, though the larger sizes are rather expensive. The Yew, however, is a slow- growing plant, and it takes many years to get a good, well- rooted plant 6 feet high and well fur- nished to the ground. In selecting the plants choose those of the same diameter from top to bottom, and not pyramidal-shaped plants, as these latter will require a lot of hard cutting at the base to bring them to a straight line. A plant cut back to hard wood at the base, without having the top cut off, rarely, if ever, grows shapely again, as the sap goes to the top, to the detriment of the lower parts. Care must also be taken that well-rooted plants are selected, the mot being of more import- ance than the top, provided the latter is not loo rough. Planting. — The planting should he done as soon as the plants arrive, choosing a day, if possible, when the ground is rather dry. If the ground happens to be very wet, laj- in the plants until it is suitable. When planting open the ground out in the line of the hedge, allowing plenty of room to spread the roots out, so that the plants have every chance of making a good start. They should be placed in temporarily at first, so that some idea of the distance they will be from each other can be obtained. They should be near each other, without undue crowding, and be planted about an inch lower than they were before. The roots should be drawn out on each side clear of each other, and fine soil worked by the hand among them, finally covering the whole in and treading it very firm. No manure will be required when planting, but a good top-dressing should be given about the following May or .lune to keep the roots cool and moist during the hot summer months. The best time for planting is October or early November, and next to that is from the middle of February to the middle of April ; the middle of winter is not a good time, as the thick, fleshy roots of the Yew are very liable to rot during wet, cold weather such as is often experienced in December and .lanuary, when growth is inactive and the ground is too cold for immediate root-action after transplanting. Bagshot, Surrey. J. Clark. (To he continued. J THE CHILD'S GARDEN. IN my last article on the Child's Garden I dwelt on the impiortance of encouraging in young children a love of flowers, and lately a little episode came under my notice which gave me great pleasure. In front of a beautiful flower shop in a well-known thoroughfare I noticed a nice- looking nurse with three children, whose ages varied from four to seven years. The nurse was putting them through a catechism as to the names of the flowers that were displayed in lovely masses in the windows. I lingered close to the little group, a delighted listener to a lesson I could not have wished better given. It was a pretty game, and it was evidently not the first time it had been played in like fashion. Each child was trying who could say first the name of the flower indicated — the eager sweet faces of the little girls, and the intelligent questions of the nurse, who knew perfectly well what she was talking about, convinced me that very often the best teaching is to be found outside the schoolroom, and that the unregarded moments of our children's lives are those of the greatest importance to their future well-being and .success. There are many simple lessons to be taught in the child's garden. The difl'erence between bulbs and tubers, for in- stance, and after that has been learned the dis- tinction between Crocus conns and Snowdrop bulbs. Then show them Hyacinths, Dafibdils, January 28, 1905,] THE GARDEN. too much science and too little common-sense. The child is treated like a small machine, to be eventu- ally converted into one of larger dimensions and more steam power, and the consequence is bad work, because the love that maketh great the worker's art has surely been eliminated, and the professor rules where the lover of Nature once worshipped his eternal God. ' Oh ! how skilful grows the hand That obeyeth love's coniniand. It is the heart, and not the brain. That to the highest doth attain. And he who followeth love's behest Far exceedeth all the rest." Augusta de Lacy Lacy. THE ROSE GARDEN BENNETT'S SEEDLING. T a remarkable plant of rose BENNETTS SEEDLING. and Tulips, and then the Lilies, explaining to them that the Lily of the Valley is not a true Lily, the Convallaria majalis being a favourite and familiar flower with children. In March I should show them how to sow a few annuals in boxes for planting out in May, and these can be left in sheltered sunny places, without teasing the gardener to find room for them in his overcrowded frames. Then a lesson in potting may be given, and this is always a delight after the mud-pie stage of their exist- ence is over. The little bands soon get quite conversant with the work, and it is amusing to watch the importance with which it is carried out — the crocking and pressing in the earth, the turning and tapping of the pot, and the careful adjustment of the roots of the precious Geranium which is having a change of quarters. ■The tying and staking of the plants in the little garden is easily learned. Give each child a bunch of raffia, and show him how to wet each piece by dipping it into his watering-can, help him to adjust the stake or stick, and make him pass the raffia twice round the stake and once round the stem of the plant, tying the knot on the stake and not on the stem, cutting off the ends neatly with his little gardening scissors. Try also to get him to judge of the length of the piece required before cutting it off. When the stakes and tallys are done with let them be collected and put away clean for future use, and see that empty pots are not allowed to be about to harbour slugs and snails, and that the little paths are kept neatly swept and weeded. Above all, teach your children not to be afraid of earthworms, and never to lose an opportunity of learning the history of the insects they find during their labours. Few garden boys know a wireworm when they see it. I always have to teach my lads, and it is both wise and merciful to show children the difference between insect pests and harmless insects, and if it is necessary to kill anything the young child need never be the executioner. A child well taught seldom forgets, and impressions are easily fixed on their plastic » young minds ; but, again, a child's thoughts are as the wind's thoughts — fresh and beautiful, but elusive. The distraction caused by the hovering butterfly or the passing of a bird will cause your le.sson to be lost, and truly we would not have it otherwise, for, as I have said before, we lose more than we gain if everything is done to take the joy out of the child's hour in the little garden. Directly there is a sigh — and these small men and women will sigh sometimes as though the weight of the world were on their shoulders — stop the lesson and send the little gardeners for a romp in the orchard or a race along the gravel paths. The children, too, must be left to themselves a great deal, for the mistakes tliey will make are excellent lessons, as we so well know from our own experiences. There will be constantly calls on mother or father, and despairing confessions of departure from rules, and dreadful failures, told with solemn faces and quivering lips, some dying plant or decapitated Eose held out to your pitying gaze, and adequate consolation demanded — and, of course, given. Little flower shows can be given in the garden during the summer, to which neighbouring children may be invited to exhibit, including cottage friends, the prizes being pots of flowers, or packets of seed, or tools. Tea and games after the show is over make up a charming little fete. Children love collecting wild flowers and finding out their names in one of the many delightful books now to be had. These collections, arranged in groups and bunches, can be added to the contents of the flower show — and here again is an opportunity for colour suggestions -and a pretty little series of lessons may be given by showing the relationship between the wild flowers and the garden variety without getting on the dry lines of botanical research. I know children who are well up in botany and can classify plants, but are ignorant of their names and requirements. All that is necessary for our baby gardeners to know at first can be taught them by their parents during the sunny hours in their garden. It is an age of HE value of this charm- ing Ayrshire Rose lies in the perfect purity of its blossoms. Many of the group, and also of the allied R. semper- virens, have a pink or crimson tip to, or suffusion of pink in, their buds. This, although pretty in the extreme, somewhat mars their effect when the Roses are desired as a contrast against such brilliant, kinds as Crimson Rambler. The Ayrshire and sempervirens Roses are the best companions to- Crimson Rambler, with the one exception of Mme. d'Arblay, as they blossom alniost at the- same time, certainly later than Aglaia, Thalia, and some others of the multiflora group. A. ■well-developed pillar, or arch, or weeping standard of Bennett's Seedling is a beautiful- floral picture which makes one regret its season of flowering is so very brief. The snow-white- flowers are small and double, and so lavishly- produced as to be a perfect mass of white. I think we only get the true beauty froni these Roses when they are planted against a^ 15 feet to 20 feet pillar, or as shown in the illustration. An old decaying tree is also a suitable sup- port for them ; but wherever they are planted careful preparation must be given to the soil. A hole 3 feet deep and as wide is none too large, and it should be filled up with good soil, maiden loam from an old well-fed pasture being the best, with a moderate amount of manure. I have seen the great advantage of having these Roses upon their own roots that 1 have no hesitation in commending them before budded plants. I firmly believe we should have less mildew and stronger plants. P. ROSE E. VEYRAT HERMAN OS. This beautiful Rose, which gained a silver medal last September as the best Tea Rose in the show, is not a suitable variety for a bed. It is so rampant in growth that it needs a good-sized wall to allow space for its vigorous shoots. We saw this Rose last summer doing splendidly on a south, wall, its growths being trained upright to a height, of 5 feet or 6 feet, and then trained horizontally. It is not a very prolific bloomer, but when the fine buds are growing near a wall they develop into grand, handsome blossoms almost as rich iu colour and form as Comtesse de Nadaillae. If you require a few good dwarf-growing Teas and Hybrid Teas to take the place of this Rose plant Mme. Ravary, Souv. de Pierre Notting, Lady Roberts, or Mme... Vermorel. 56 THE GARDEN. fJANUARY 28, 1905. MARGUERITE F CARNATIONS. become ! One of England's most famous poets wrote long ago : " Love is flo»'er-Iike ; flowers are lovely ; Fi-iendsliip is a siieltering tree." this house there is a room into which no In and how fortunate ! They fare south, like the gipsies, following the sun. In bird-land it is OF great service for yielding cut never winter. But it is otherwise with the flowers in autumn and winter is trees, who must stand fast and take whatever this useful group of Carnations, comes. All that they can do is to discard, as ' a packet of seed of a good strain soldiers do, all useless burden. Yet, in other pictures are admitted except portraits of the giving a large percentage of good respects, they are more like Quakers, holding family. But there is a pet horse with his double flowers. Seed should be the doctrine of non • resistance, than like young mistress on his back ; and there are sown in pans of light rich soil in March, soldiers. For they are unarmed, and may not pictures of some of the mute members of the and again at the end of April, for a succes- oppose force with force. l family, the trees. Here is the " Old :Mon- sion of flowers. A position on a shelf in The company of trees is good and elevating, arch," the " Buttressed Oak," the " Gate Tulip a cool house will suit them admirably. Cover but one needs human companionship as well. Tree," the "Flicker Oak," and other tree friends the pans with glass and paper till germination , In a great forest, where tall trees grow close and comrades. Here is the m9urning Maple, takes place, when the seedlings may be exposed to the light. When large enough to handle conve- niently, prepare boxes or pans of good rich soil, and prick off the seedlings .3 inches apart each way. After well watering they may be returned to a cool house or frame, and attention given to shading and watering. They will rapidly increase in size under these con- ditions, and when furnished with good roots they may be lifted and put into pots 5 inches in diameter, and placed in the open on a bed of coal ashes, staking them when necessary. When established give weak manur'" water, and disbud for larger blooms. Chas. Jones. It is no small advantage to have a race of Carnations that will flower in August if you sow the seed in February, for this is what the Mar- guerite Carnations will do. The seed must be sown in pans under glass in a house that is slightly heated. As soon as the seedlings are, say, li inches high, transfer them to small pots, placing one seedling in each pot. As they grow and the weather becomes warmer, they must be given more air, so as gradually to harden them off, for they must be placed out of doors in April. They may either be planted in the border or put into pots, tubs, or vases. If placed in vases they make a charming display in late summer. I have seen vases filled with them placed along a terrace walk that were a delightful feature throughout August and Sep- tember. Keep the colours together as much as possible, fornow they can be obtained fairly true. The result will be far more effective than if the colours were indiscriminately mixed. Little trouble attaches to their cultivation. Some care is needed when transferring the plants from the pans or pots so as not to damage the roots. The soil should be watered an hour or two before the plants are taken up, otherwise if they are dry the soil will fall away from their rcota. See that the vases are well drained and that the drainage is clear. Y. Z. who has never held her head up again since the time of the great storm several years ago, which left her a " TREES AND SHRUBS. TREES IN WINTER. WINTER is the time in which to become really intimate with one's trees. They have nothing to hide ; they are naked and unashamed. Even the birds' secrets are revealed ; their summer homes are tossed about at the mercy of every wind of heaven. How wise are the birds, FLOWERS OF THE MARGUERITE CARNATION (SLIGHTLY RKDDOED), together, the wanderer feels a sense of desola- tion of lonely awe. He is so little and so insignificant. The trees murmur together, high over his head, in a language that he does not understand, and that has a tone of menace towards their pigmy intruder. He feels as a dwarf might feel in an army of strange giants. They are "other folk"; they live their own lives aloof from human cares, and needs, and desires. But when a great tree grows in one's own garden spot, when we have wintered it and summered it, vphen we have played under the spread of its branches, and grown up in its protecting presence, how differently we come to feel tovi-ards it ! What staunch friends we broken and twisted wreck. From a remark- ably shapely young tree, 30 feet in height, she was battered in a few hours into a dwarfed and unsightly mass of broken limbs. At first it was thought best to complete the work of destruction, and the wood pile might have been her destination but for the fact that when the new green of her tender young leafage appeared we had not the heart to destroy the quivering thing so retentive of life. Now this Maple is one of the most picturesque trees on the place. Singular to relate she has put forth very many whip - like branches, every one of them with a downward tendency, making in summer weather a tent of green, a cosy outdoor parlour, with portieres that sway lightly with every breath of wind, and give delightful glimpses of the garden just beyond. In the winter I go out and stand beneath a great Oak or Tulip tree, and look at it long and lovingly, until every part of it is photographed in mind and memory. What afi'ection, what familiarity, what reverence even enters into my feeling for it ! I note its great trunk, its furrowed bark, all its spread and sinuosities of branch and twig. Every angular dip, all the ramifications of its limbs become as well known as the face and form of a human friend. Dift'erent trees affect one dif- ferently, but it is to the Oaks that the Nature-lover goes for strength. They are like wise old men, the ancients of the race, who give good counsel. With the Birches I am on equal terms. There is a playful badinage in the toss of their spray : they wave friendly white arms in greeting as I approach. Few trees are more companionable in winter than a group of Birches. They seem in their element in the coldest weather. They do not shrink and shiver away from the wildest blast, but bend gracefully, sportively, and recover themselves like agile Indian runners in a game of ball. Some trees look sulky and oppre.ssed in bitter weather, but the Birch has a radiant joy in the tumult of the elements. All the different species have this peculiarity, which makes a group of American Birches a most desirable feature of the winter landscape. Of these trees we have five species in the east of North America. Their common names January 28, 1905. j THE GARDEN. 57 are the White, the Yellow, the Paper, the Red, and the Sweet Birch. All of these najiies apply to some peculiarity of the bark of the trees. Take, for instance, a fine specimen of the Yellow Birch, a tree little known, I fear, in England. How distinct is the colour of its trunk and branches, how cheerfully it lights up the copse in which it grows Its botanical name is Betula lutea. It becomes a tree of the largest size, sometimes 90 feet high. Perhaps no other tree has such bright - coloured bark. In the sun- light it has metallic lustre like bronze. This bark, with its brilliant reflections, peels into sunny rings and tendrils like the curls on the forehead of a young girl. It makes a beautiful contrast to the White, Red, and Sweet or Black Birches. Why are these trees not seen more fre- quently grouped together among Ever- if any, forest trees are so effective in the winter. Those who have seen them at their best will, I am sure, bear me out in this statement. U.S.A. Danskb Dandeidge. A WINTER-BERRIED SHRUB. The shrub illustrated (Skimmia Fore- mani) is one of the brightest of winter- berry-bearing shrub.?. The Skimmias are natives of the Himalaya and Japan, and among the most useful of small evergreen .shrubs, looking bright and cheerful all the year with their fu 1- green polished leathery foliage, while in early summer they bear a quantity of whitish, sweet- scented, rather Privet-like bloom in dense panicles, and in winter make a brilliant show with their closely clustered scarlet berries. Skimmia Foremani appears to be a larger form of S. oblata. No shrub is better for the rock garden in cool peat or peat and loam. The berries are held the second year, and keep their colour only a little darkened, though they lose somewhat of their lustre. The two smaller clusters of berries in the illustration are the '/ I remains of last year's fruits. SKIMMIA FOREMANI IN (SLIGHTLY REDUCED.) [This is oi\e of the showiest of shrubs in winter ; it has scarlet berries.) VERONICA PAR- VIFLORA. Within recent years shrubby Veronicas, mainly natives of New Zealand, have grown greatly in favour with the public. It has been found that more of the species are hardy than was at one time supposed, and their beauties of foliage and flower have secured them at least a share of the notice to which they are justly en titled. The variations they show from seeds, and the ease with which they hybridise with each other, have drawn the attention of some skilful raisers of plants to their possibilities, and a number of seed- lings and hybrids of considerable value have been secured. Among the most suc- cessful raisers of such forms from the hardy species, perhaps the leading place is taken by Mr. Robert Lindsay, Kaimes Lodge, Edinburgh. It is not my purpose at present, however, to speak of these hybrids, but to draw attention to one of the species which, if not absolutely hardy every- where, is practically so. It stands all but the most severe winters with me, and young plants are un- injured even then, while the old ones start afresh from the base even after the worst winters on record in the last decade. It was also hardy with the late Rev. C. WoUey-Dod at Edge Hall, in Cheshire, a garden known as a cold and trying one for many plants generally hardy in the three kingdoms. Veronica parviflora is a pleasing shrub of ever- green habit, except in very severe winters. It may readily be kept in a small state by cutting it back after flowering ; but it is never very tall with me, and I have old plants not more than 3 feet or 4 feet high. In a small state it is a neat rockery plant, its narrow, glossy leaves being both pretty and elegant, while its appearance in autumn, with many little spikes of soft-looking white flowers, is very pleasing. It blooms here for months together, and is one of the last flowers to disappear before the frosts of winter. There is no difficulty in propagating this Veronica, which can be raised from seeds or increased by cuttings. Self-sown seedlings spring up in considerable numbers and generally make strong plants. S. Arnott, Carsethom, by Dumfries, Scotland. 58 THE GARDEN. [January 28, 1905. GARDENING FOR B6GINN6RS. SIMPLE HINTS. PRUNING GOOSEBERRIES. — If we | free from weeds it will be better to sow seeds. In start with a cutting, tiie first season's | country places turf of good quality can sometimes growth must be shortened back to induce be obtained from the roadsides; but surv63'ors are more branches to come forth. Always getting more strict, and rightly so, and this source bear in mind that by pruning to a bud will probably be cut off. The best turf is obtained pointing in a given direction we can from a sheep run, and this can generally be had control the shape of the tree or bush. The best on large estates ; but the only chance for outsiders form for a tJooseberry bush in the open garden is is the building estate, where the grass fields are what is termed the basin shape, where the branches i being utilised for building. A yard of turf is 3 feet form in whorU round another centre. To obtain long and 1 foot wide, and buyers should insist upon abundance of fruit leave a young shoot wherever | having measure. The price varies from 83. to lOs. there is room ; all other shoots to be spurred back to not less than half-an-inch, but all leading shoots and others left to fill open places to have only the soft, unripe points removed. Keep the branches off the ground. Praniug the Black Currant. — The Black Currant bears chiefly on the young wood ; therefore the pruning will be directed to fill the bushes with short-jointed young wood, thinly enough placed per 100. Making a New Lawn. — A tennis lawn, to give plenty of freedom for play, should be 100 feet long by 50 feet wide. Grass will grow, in a certain sense, anywhere ; but to make a lawn that will keep its colour the soil must be in good condition. First see to the levels and if any earth has to be moved. Get it into shape, then go regularly over it with the spirit-level and straight-edge, and drive to ensure perfect ripening. No special effort in i in stumps 10 feet apart. Never trust to the eye in training is required. We simply want a bush with ' such matters, as the levels should be exact. The the branches regularly placed so as to catch every gleam of sunshine and free circulation of air. Young branches coming up from the bottom may be encouraged, and occasionally an old branch may be removed. Very little shortening is required. A Black Currant bush can scarcely be too large if the habit is compact. The Black Currant Mite. — In some gardens this land should be deeply stirred, and manured if necessary. Rake smooth, and make fairly firm before laying down the turf. Dividing Hardy Plants. — There is much of this kind of work to be done in many gardens. Old plants of Phloxes, Harpaliums or Sunflowers, Pyrethrums, Michaelmas Daisies, and other free- growing subjects should be reduced in size annually has been allowed to extend through ignorance, but if fine spikes of flowers are wanted, and every three now everybody is becoming acquainted with the , or four years take the plants up, trench, and manure cause of the abnormally swollen buds which appear in spring — thinly at first, but if neglected rapidly spreading. There ought to be no difficulty in stamping it out. In bad cases, destroying the bushes by fire seems to be the right course ; but if effective as dot plants, the approach is noticed at first, and the buds are cut | are best in groups off and burnt, it ought to be stopped if thoroughly treated. A heavy dressing of manure will be useful, as all insect pests are more troublesome to weak bushes. the borders, and replant. This gives an opportunity to adopt a different system of grouping, and possibly increase the effect. Something such as the tall spiral-growing Delphiniums are most ~ ' ' ' Others of lower growth Pruning the Red Currant. — To obtain fine fruit and a good deal of it spur-pruning is best, and the young wood should be thinned and shortened back in summer. Prune when the bushes are young to Some Plants Resent Disturbance. — To mention only a few. We never transplant Madonna Lilies it they are doing well. Years ago we had the finest group of them we have ever seen, and in a weak moment we moved them to a more prominent position, and they never flowered so well after- wards. PiBonies take a long time to establish, and when doing well let them remain, but apply rich obtain an open centre with two or more whorls of top-dressings. The same may be said of Herb branches round. The White Currant must be treated on the same lines as the Rad. Red and White Currants can be planted on north walls or wood fences, where, if closely netted, the fruit will keep till late in autumn. A Laii'nfrom Seeds. — The ground must be well and deeply broken up and manured in winter, taking out all roots of perennial weeds. Then about March complete the levelling, rake smooth, and make firm by treading and rolling, leaving a perfectly smooth level surface. Sow the seeds thickly, as probably the birds will get some, though this must be guarded against by using black cotton if necessary. A bushel of seed will be required to sow a lawn 100 feet by 50 feet. Improving Weakly Lawns. — The present race of Lilies and Dictamnus Fraxinella, and this is specially true of the Christmas Rose. Herbaceous Phloxes. — Both the early and late- flowering kinds are charming, but they are strong- rooting things, and soon consume all the food within their reach. They may be kept growing for a time by heavy top-dressings of manure, but they should never be left more than two or three years on the same spot if fine spikes of flowers are wanted. February or March is a good month for division. Hardy Herhaceows Lobelias. — There is a greater demand arising for this class of plants. Some of the hybrids are very pretty and interesting, easily propagated from offsets in spring ; and seeds sown now and growu in heat will make plants large enough to plant out in May. These plants love tennis players want every blade of grass cut down I moisture, and when planted out should have good to the roots, and where everything is cut and taken away it is necessary to take pains with a lawn to keep it in good condition. The greatest improvement in a weak lawn I have seen has been by the application of 41b. to 51b. of basic slag in soil, bed. with a layer of cow manure deep in the Preparing for Spring Propagation. — Zonal or bedding Geraniums, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Pe- autumn, say October, followed in February by | tunias," and other soft-wooded plants" usually .31b. per rod of nitrate of soda. This dressing will propagated in early spring should be warmed in la night temperature of .50° to 55° to soften the last for two years. Lift the cutters a little higher to clear the roots of the grass, there will then be a firm foundation. Weedy Lawns.— Good turf near towns is diflSoult to obtain and expensive, and if it cannot be obtained growth. It may be taken as a general principle that cuttings of plants from a cold house will not strike well in strong heat, but if the plants are first warmed and the young soft shoots taken every cutting will strike root. Family Groups. — A group of the choicer Primulas on a shady bit of rockery, where they can nestle in the shelter of the stones, is always interesting, and the same principle can be carried out with other families. When this is done the right soil can be given, and the best position chosen, which makes success sure. Iris reticulata is a lovely thing in a mass on the lee side of the rockery in March. Tender Annuals, such as Verbenas, Lobelias, Petunias, and Begonias, should be sown early itk heat. Verbenas and Begonias especially should be sown early in February, as the seeds take some time to germinate. Lobelias of the blue-flowered, dwarf-bedding section are best sown in autumn and grown cool ; but if the sowing is delayed, the warm treatment must be continued for some time. The soil, both for seeds and cuttings, must be made firm, and they must be kept close. Suitable Conditions for Striking Cuttings include sandy soil, with a layer of sand on the top ; clean pots, very freely drained. The size is not a matter of much importance, but 5-inch pots do well ; and where many cuttings of particular plants are wanted we use shallow boxes that will hold several dozen cuttings, pot these off singly as soon as rooted and hardened a bit, still keeping the young plants in the warm house till established. Carnations and Pinks from Seed. — There is some- thing fascinating about raising seedlings, especially to the beginner who has had no previous disappoint- ments to deplore. But in buying Carnation seeds do not touch the rubbish. Better give 2s. 6d. or more for a small packet from a grower who has a reputation than waste time and space over inferior things. Perhaps the best course for a beginner would be to buy a few good plants, fertilise the blossoms, and save seed. Sow seeds under glass in gentle heat in February or March, and prick out 6 inches apart in a prepared bed when hardened. Careful Watering. — The use of these words may — and, I think, does — confuse the beginner. Many appear to think when they are told to water carefully that only small quantities should be given, and a good deal of mischief is done by giving a small dribble on the surface. When the soil in which a plant is growing is dry, enough water should be given to moisten all of it, the surplus escaping through the bottom ; then leave the plant till the soil is dry again. Antirrhimmi.1 (Snapdragons) for Massing. — The self-coloured Snapdragons have been much improved of late years by careful selection of the seed parents. We have now carefully selected stocks of white, yellow, and crimson varieties which come true from seeds and make excellent beds on the lawn or groups in the borders, that will flower all the season till stopped by frost if the seed-stems are removed occasionally. Sow in heat early in February. Prick off into boxes when large enough, and plant out 9 inches apart when hardened ofiF in May. Planting Bo.v Edgings. — It goes without saying that every good gardener knows how to plant Box edgings, but some of the so-called gardeners make a terrible hash of it, and this is one of the jobs which cannot be scamped. The site should be deeply dug over, and fresh soil added from the border near, and some of the exhausted soil removed if Box grew there previously. After digging tread firmly, and add more soil to make up the level, then draw the line tightly, and beat down the surface. Cut out the trench deep enough to plant the Box, leaving a straight firm face for the Box to rest upon. Fix the Box evenly and firmly about 2 inches above the ground level. E. H. January 28, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 59 THE FRUIT GARDEN. EARLY DESSERT APPLES. JT is an open question, and a question often discussed, as to which are the best early dessert Apples. Those having large gardens can aii'ord to plant various sorts, and thus find out for themselves the ones they like best, but with those vv-hose gardens are of limited extent and who never- theless wish to have one or two early Apple trees in their garden the case is very different. Among the most perplexing questions that trouble the amateur is that of finding out the best varieties of the various kinds of fruit trees he may wish to plant, whether Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, &c. It is with the object of helping such amateurs in their selection that the following lists are submitted. I ought here to remark that when a variety is recom- t mended to be grown as a bush or pyramid in a garden, the tree should be grafted or budded on the English Paradise stock, but when recommended for planting in an orchard the trees should be worked on the Crab stock. The following in my opinion are among the best of the first early Apples, and are ripe in July : Mr. Gladstone. — This variety is of good flavour, is a free bearer, and certainly one of the most handsome of the early_ sorts, the colour of the skin being red, with yellow stripes. It is a popular market variety, and will succeed as a bush in the garden or as a standard in the orchard. White Joaneting. — This is the earliest of all Apples, and is ripe in the South of England in the middle of July. More suitable for growing in the garden than the orchard. Early Harvest. — This is a stronger growing sort than the others mentioned, and succeeds well as an orchard standard, as well as a bush or pyramid ; it is ripe at the end of Ju'y. These three varieties are well worth growing, but to those only wanting to grow one tree of an early Apple my selec- tion _ would be Mr. Gladstone. For the information of the inexperienced it may here be said that the earliest Apples should be eaten as gathered from the tree, for if stored for any length of time they lose flavour and become insipid. For dessert in August there are several aspirants to favour, including the following : Beauty of Bath, Duchess of Oldenburgh, Lady Sudeley, and Devonshire Quarrenden. The three first varieties are handsome Apples, and are suitable for exhibi- tion. They succeed better as bushes in the garden than as orchard trees. Devonshire Quarrenden is one of the oldest and best-known among early dessert Apples, its homely red cheeks being familiar to most country people, and its sweet and delicious flavour appreciated by all. This suc- ceeds as a bush in the garden or as a standard in the orchard. To those only wishing to grow one August Apple I should say plant the Quarrenden. In September we have many excellent sorts to choose from, each well deserving a place in gardens of even limited extent. Worcester Pearmain. — This variety has grown immensely in public favour during the past few years, and I think deservedly so. It is among the most handsome of early Apples, its skin being dark red, a rich glow of colour- The flesh is white and tender, and the flavour agreeable. It is a prolific- bearing sort, and valued as a market variety. Langley Pipjiin. — A comparatively new variety, raised between Cox's Orange Pippin and Mr. Gladstone. The fruit is of medium size, the ground colour ' of the skin being pale yellow, with a bright rosy flush on the sunny side. It has a brisk and pleasant flavour, which I think is more like that of Mr. Gladstone than Cox's Orange Pippin. The tree is moderately strong-growing, a sure cropper, and is suitable for garden or orchard. Pinea2}2ile Russet. — This variety is a prolific bearer and a strong grower. The fruit is large, the flesh tender, the flavour delicious, and highly perfumed. It succeeds equally as well in both garden and orchard. Many other sorts could be mentioned ; but for September Apples the above three are amongst the best. Selections for succeeding months will be given in future early numbers. Owen Thomas. THE DENBIGH PLUM. A Cooking Vasiety. This excellent Plum, also known as Cox's Emperor, should be included in every collec- tion. It crops well, and the fruit is of good size and colour, and if allowed to ripen thoroughly in the open it is quite acceptable for dessert. Small bush trees last season were laden with fruit, and those from a wall were first-rate. The fruit of this variety will hang well on the trees after a thorough ripen- ing, and will be available for use for a long time. A slight root pruning at times is of great service. Chas. .Jones. THE NEW RASPBERRY PENWILL'S CHAMPION. It is always interesting to learn something of the origin and history of new fruits and flowers. Therefore, as we happened to be in Totnes on the day on which an illustration of the newRaspberrj, Penwill's Champion, appeared in The Oakden (December 10, 1904, page 40.3), we took the oppor- tunity of calling on Mr. Penwill to obtain all the information that he might kindly be willing to give us about it. It was a most unexpected surprise to find a large piece of ground, bounded by ancient walls, against which some grand Mag- nolias were growing in most robust health. Nor was this the tithe of the garden, as its possessor pointed out when he took us to the far end and showed us what might well be, at a guess, an acre or two of good fruit-growing land. Totnea is one of the most ancient of English boroughs, and, as in many another provincial town, its builders knew better than to crowd up the houses so that no breathing space should be left for the inhabitants, and beautiful gardens may often be found belonging to houses whose frontage is on the High Street. Penwill's Champion is not the result of hybridi- sation, but may rather be attributed to selection. Chance puts many a good thing in our way, but it is something other than chance which enables us to take advantage of it. Growing apart from other Raspberries, in a quarter devoted to Black Currants, some stray bushes were observed year by year to bear not only remarkably fine fruit of bright colour, but to go on cropping for a much longer period than all the other canes in the garden. A favourable point such as this was not likely to escape the watchful eye of so good a gardener as Mr. Penwill, who lost no time in setting about increasing the stock. To make assurance doubly sure, he carefully planted a portion of these side by side with other well- accredited sorts for the sake of comparison until he was satisfied that the long cropping character was maintained. It was only last year that Mr. Penwill was persuaded to send it to the Holland House show of July 12, where the judges, while they fully admitted its worth, wanted further proof of its being the long cropper it was claimed to be. In consequence of this Mr. Penwill sent up specimens to the new hall in Vincent Square every succeeding fortnight as long as it was in bearing, viz., on July 26, August 9, August 23, and September 6, cutting the canes at the ground line THE DENBIGH PLUM, ALSO KMOWN AS COX'S EMPBROK. (Reduced.) 60 THE GARDEN. f.TAXUARY 28, 1905. and exhibiting them as they grew, and thus deservedly gained the award o£ merit. He has also won certificates at Shrewsbury, Taunton Deane, and Exeter. For many years Mr. Penwill has gathered Raspberries of this particular strain, to which he has given the name of Penwill's Champion, because he contends that it will hold its own against all competitors for a period of over two months. Thus the exact dates for the last three seasons are as follows : 1902, July i to Septem- ber 16 ; 1903, June 26 to October 2 ; 1904, July i to September 19. The ordinary cropping season for Raspberries is over in about a month, therefore we may welcome the new comeras a distinct advance in therightdirection. Its introducer claims for the Penwill's Champion that it equals in size and is superior in flavour to any in the market, while the canes are vigorous and long lived. The climate of Totnes, though salubrious, is not exceptionally mild for the south of England ; but the soil is wonderfully rich and productive. We should certainly recommend any purchasers of this good Raspberry to plant in deep, well-prepared ground, and then we have no doubt, from what we have learnt by personal and local experience, that they will not be disappointed in their new acquisition. K. L D. MESSRS. ALEX. DICKSON AND SONS' ROSES. ( Continued from jxige Jf7.) 1EISH HAKMONY.-This is one of those beautiful singles that Messrs. Dickson, in order that they may be easily iden- tified as a class, have designated as "Irish," and is by no means the least beautiful of the .set. For freedom of growth and profusion of flower it is, I think, one of the best of the whole series ; colour in the bud saffron yellow, with a tinge of carmine on the outside of the petal, opening into a large single flower often .5 inches in diameter, of a pale yellowish white, quite distinct, and likely to prove a grand bedding Rose. A mass of bloom when I saw it in mid-July, with every promise of a continuance throughout the season. A good grower and not fleeting like some of the singles. The scent is delicious ; there is undoubtedly a good deal of Tea blood in it. This Kose, when ex- hibited by the firm at the autumn show of the National Rose Society on September 24 last in great sheaves, was awarded a gold medal. And if the gold medal of the National Rose Society is to be given to single Roses, none have so far deserved it better than Irish Harmony. BetU/.—This is a really grand flower. Looking down the long rows of it one was struck at once that here was something, at any rate, out of the common, its parentage — well, never mind that. Its colour was rosy copper of varying shades ; its form reminiscent of Killarney, only with petals of greater length. Several I measured and laid on a foot rule, and they were within a sixteenth of an inch of 4 inches. It is a good grower— better than Killarneyeven — never out of flower, and as a good all-round Rose it will be hard to beat. It will be distributed in the autumn of 1905, and bids fair to be one of the most popular of Roses that Messrs. Dickson have ever sent out. Mrs. David M'Kee. — This is a distinct Rose of a colour that we want — creamy yellow — a Hybrid Tea that is now bein^ distributed, erect, and with the branching habit ; the petals are large and round, and the flower is of good form. It is a robust grower, and has received the gold medal of the National Rose Society. All exhibitors will want this Rose. Dr. J. Campljell Hall. — I was immensely taken with this flower, and I could not help feeling that something was wrong somewhere, that it, too, had not received that hall-mark — the gold medal. It is not easy, perhaps, to suggest any other method than that which the National Rose Society adopts in awarding its gold medals, but here was a flower a long way ahead of a good many Roses that have received that coveted distinction without it. The judges ought to see the Roses growing, of that there is no doubt : perhaps some day that will be managed. But to get back to Dr. Campbell Hall (the Rose, and not the rosarian), one needs to be an artist to describe some of the colours of Messrs. Dickson's Roses, and this one is not easy ; pinkish rose, evenly marbled white, with a suspicion of cream, is as near as I can get. At any rate, the flower is beautiful in the extreme, and the plant is a good grower and of real perpetual flowering habit, a Hybrid Tea that everyone will grow when it becomes better known. Most useful for exhibition, and a fine garden Rose. Lady Ina Bingham (H.T.). — Another of those great petalled flowers after the style of Betty, that is not yet in commerce. Colour a lovely shade of pink difficult to describe. The flower is very large, though only semi-double ; foliage is massive, and of a deep green. It will be a grand garden Rose that the raisers think very highly of, and will in all probability be distributed in 190.5. Mrs. Conway Jones. — A Hybrid Tea after the style of Bessie Brown, only an improve- ment even on that grand Rose. It is an immense flower, slightly deeper in colour, of the same vigorous habit of growth, and flowering even more profusely. Called after the wife of one of our most enthusiastic of Rose growers and exhibitors, it has come to stay, and will be found ne.xt year in many a box of Rose blooms. H. E. Molynedx. (To be continued.) HARDY FRUITS IN SEASON. PEAR WINTER NELIS. THIS is a well known and luscious winter Pear. The belief has been hitherto pretty general that to grow it to perfection the assistance of a warm wall is necessary. My experi- ence is that in warm and favourable seasons the best results are to be obtained from pyramid trees grown in the open. Growers should make a note of this fact, and hasten to plant this, certainly one of the best and most indispensable winter Pears in cultivation, in some warm corner or other of their garden. It will be well to qualify the above by saying that in cold and unfavourable seasons this variety is a disap- pointment in the open, and therefore a reserve of trees on a warm wall should be provided where possible. Owen Thomas. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. PEAR WI.NTEK KELIS (NATfKAL SI/,K). LESSONS FROM 1904. (Continued from page 45.) Varieties to Choose for 1905. — Onions. PERHAPS no vegetable has been more improved during the last thirty years than the Onion. It not only forms one of the most telling and important dishes at our exhibitions, but also is valuable in the kitchen. The practice of raising the plants under glass, whether it be for exhibition or not, is most certainly to be recommended, as by so doing an earlier growth is assured and the crop is generally proof against the Onion fly, at all events so much so that little damage is done. Ailsa Craig is one of the best for exhibition, and still maintains its posi- tion ; but a very fine dis- tinct novelty is Johnson's Giant, which proved to be our best last year. Cran- ston's Excelsior is fine also Veitch's Maincrop is one of the best keepers, and very reliable. Carter's Record is probably the largest variety in existence, and of good quality. Leviathan and White Emperor are fine for autumn sowing. Lettuces have been abundant and good all through the year, and where a large collec- tion is well grown, with so many beautiful shades of colouring, these create quite a pleasing feature in the vegetable garden. We made rather an extensive trial of the most distinct sorts during the past summer ; this proved to be quite a January 2S, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 61 feature, as well as instructive, but I will only mention those which I consider to be the best and most reliable. Carter's Harbinger is a valuable variety for forcing ; it can be grown in boxes in an early Peach house, and is invaluable when salads are in daily request. Veitch's Perfect Gem is an excellent Cabbage variety. It matures quickly and is generally much liked. All the Year Round is still one of the best. Buttercup, a some- what new variety which I had from Messrs. Dickson and Robinson, is a beautiful golden colour, and should be grown in all gardens; so also should Lord Kitchener, which is very large and distinct. Sutton's Marvel is a grand dark-leaved sort. Among Cos sorts Sutton's Mammoth is mj- favourite ; it is large, distinct, and good. Brown Cos and Hicks' Hardy White are the two best I know for winter, and the old Hammersmith still remains the most hardy Cabbage variety for winter cultivation. Endive. Not much improvement has been effected in these. A good type of the round-leaved Batavian is un- surpassed by any I know, and the old green curled adds variety to the salad bowl. Turnips. Here again we have some very fine additions during recent years. The long forcing variety of Messrs. Carter's is a great gain. By sowing the seed early on a very gentle hot-bed splendid roots can be pulled early in April ; the quality is everything one could wish for, and it remains a long time fit for use. Early Milan is quick and good, but must be pulled and eaten when quite young. Snowball and Jersey Lilj' are grand white varieties, and Veitch's Red Globe is fine during the hot weather. The yellow varieties do not succeed so well South as in the North, where they are much prized, Dobbie's Golden Ball being very fine when seen at its best. As a winter variety we grow largely Webb's Prize- taker, a green-topped sort, but extremely hardy and of fine quality. Vegetable Marrows. The medium-sized varieties are certainly the best, and the three I prefer are Moore's Cream, Sutton's Perfection, a fine, green fruit, and Pen-y- byd, in my opinion the best flavoured of all. Tomatoes. For growing under glass Cutbush's Polegate is a grand variety, and in every way represents a good Tomato. Golden Jubilee is one of the best yellows. Sutton's Earliest of All is hard to beat for outside culture, as it is very prolific and of good quality. Spinach. The Carter is a great favourite here, and the finest variety for exhibition. There has been a great improvement during recent years ; the long- standing varieties, both round and prickly seeded, are a great gain. Parsnips. On wet, heavy land the Parsnip crop has not been so satisfactory as in some seasons. They grew remajkably well, but the roots have been badly cankered, so much so in some localities that hardly a clean specimen could be found, and the splendid samples generally met with at our autumn exhibi- tions have been few and far between. Some grand new introductions of recent years have done much to stimulate the culture of this useful winter vege- table. We grow chiefly Dobbie's selected, a first- rate variety ; Sutton's Tender and True, distinct and fine ; and Carter's Maltese, each being hand- some and of rare quality. Parsley. This has been plentiful all through the year. A well-grown bed is always a great pleasure to see, and should be grown in a prominent part of the kitchen garden. 1 know of no variety to compare with Dobbie's Exhibition. It is a grand selection and perfectly true. The season of 1904 stands out as the most successful during my twenty years at Aldenham. E. Beckett. Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. GARDENING OF THE WEEK FLOWER GARDEN. SOWING SWEET PEAS.— It is yet early to sow most hardy and half-hardy seeds in heat, but a few Sweet Peas for earliest blooming outdoors should be sown now in gentle heat in 4A-inoh pots, sowing half a dozen seeds in each pot. By growing and hardening off gently it is probable that the weather will admit of their being planted out in permanent quarters before becoming pot- bound and stunted in growth. If no failures in germinating or loss in other ways occur, each pot will form a good clump, and, if it is desirable to set in rows, they can be planted 15 inches or 18 inches apart without disturbance. Hollyhocks in places where the disease is rampant can only be successfully grown as annuals, and the single ones especially do well as such if sown early and grown into sturdy plants fit for planting out in May. The same remarks apply to Antirrhinums and Pentstemons. Of the former. Queen of the North, Yellow Queen, and the new Coral Red are a good trio. The rose and white Cosmos bipinnatus are very beautiful autumn- blooming plants with elegant foliage, but they require a long season of growth to flower freely in autumn before frosts occur, hence they should be sown in heat without delay. If through any cause Campanula pyramidalis was not sown last summer — the proper season — lose no time in doing so, for some seedlings will bloom next autumn if grown on freely ; they are indispensable for the herbaceous borders, so every means should be adopted to work up a plentiful stock. They resent strong heat, even as tiny seedlings, as most hardy plants do. Bedding Plants. — Place Salvia splendens grandiflora and varieties, Verbenas, Lobelia Erinus, Iresines, Alternantheras, and similar plants in moist heat to produce cuttings. As a rule, cuttings taken off spring-rooted plants turn out more satis- factory during the summer than do the harder and more stunted growths of wintered stock. Should a deficiency of any bedding Geraniums happen, propagate the tops of autumn-struck cuttings and clean shoots from old plants. Insert in boxes, and place on shelves near the glass in a light heated house or pit. Protecting Plants. — After the recent storms and gales examine temporary screens of evergreens, straw mats, or what not erected for the protection of tender shrubs and plants, repairing all gaps and straightening and strengthening the supports, for we have undoubtedly yet more damaging easterly winds in store. Frost having lifted some of the plants put out in beds and borders for the spring display, apply gentle but firm pressure around them and fill up blanks, adding more light mulch where necessary. In mild districts some Rhododendrons — hybrids of arboreum, noble- anum, &o. — are now opening their earliest buds. If the bushes are not too large, slight protection in the way of scrim canvas or a similar light material thrown over them on frost threatening might save them from injury. John Roberts. The Gardens, Tan-y-hwlch, North Wales. FRUIT GARDEN. Pot Vines. — These require very liberal treatment after the bunches are set. Do not leave more bunches on the Vines than they can carry or the Grapes will be inferior. Thin out the berries as soon as they commence to swell, and take care not to thin the variety Black Hamburgh too much or the bunches will be loose. Add fresh material to the surface of the pots as soon as the roots appear. Liquid manure may be given to them two or three times a week, and an occasional watering with soot water will be of benefit. Damp the paths at night with liquid manure ; this will help to keep red spider in check. Keep a night temperature of 65", or even 70°. in mild weather, but take full advantage of the sun during the day, admitting a little fresh air when the thermometer approaches 80°. Stop the shoots at the second joint beyond the bunch, but allow the laterals to cover the trellis without over- crowding. See that the temperature of the plunging material does not decline below 70°. Early Permanent Vines. — Great care must be exercised in watering. If the borders were thoroughly soaked previous to starting the house they should not require any more till the Vines have passed out of tiower. Create a drier atmosphere during flowering, and regularly tap the rods at midday to disperse the pollen. Admit air on favourable occasions, but avoid cold draughts, especially if the Vines are subject to mildew. Regulate the growths so that the trellis will be properly covered with foliage. Early Peaches (Pot Trees). — The fruits on trees which were started in December are now swelling. The temperature may be increased, and more moisture, both at the roots and in the atmo- sphere, should be given. There is always a great surplus of fruits set on pot trees, and if some of these are not removed at once they will rob the tree of much energy ; at the same time leave sufii- cient to ensure a reasonable crop. The final thinning should be deferred till after the fruits are stoned. Pay early attention to disbudding, and do not allow the shoots to get too long before stopping, but young growths must be encouraged where it is necessary to fill up gaps, having in mind the proper formation of the tree. After the fruits are stoned stimulants should be given, and a surface-dressing of horse manure and loam in equal proportions, with a little soot added, will give the trees fresh vigour. It is important for the pots to be plunged in leaves or other suitable material to prevent the too rapid evaporation of moisture at the roots, and to keep the soil uniformly moist. Make free use of the syringe, occasionally using an insecticide to keep the trees clean. Stravi'berries in Pots. — Plants from which ripe fruit is expected early in March will be throwing up their flower-spikes; if the pots are full of roots and the drainage clear they will require plenty of water, which should be diluted with liquid manure at every alternate watering. At this period a low temperature must be avoided or the spikes will be stunted. A free circulation of air is essential when the plants are in flower, and at this early date it is necessary to go over the flowers with a camel- hair brush to assist fertilisation. When the fruits are "set" make free use of the syringe, and feed liberally till the fruits are colouring. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. INDOOR GARDEN. Roses. — The shoots of Roses growing on the walls and rafters of a greenhouse may be thinned, and the plants top-dressed with loam and manure. Prune pot Roses a few weeks before starting. All plants should be established at least a year in pots before being forced. Growth and flower otherwise will be very poor, drooping whenever the sun appears in the early stages of growth. Attend to the drainage, and top-dress, using a compost similar to the one for those planted out, first removing 1 inch or 2 inches of the top soil. A vinery or Peach house on the point of being started is a suitable place for them if there is no special Rose house. The pruning depends on the variety. Teas require thinning and partial shortening of the growths. Hybrid Teas should be pruned a little, while Hybrid Perpetuals need harder pruning. Give a temperature of about 50°, with a fall or rise of 5° night and day as the case may be. Syringe once or twice on bright days. Admit air freely on all favourable occasions, taking care to avoid draught, or mildew will soon make its appearance. Green- fly quickly injures the tender young shoots if not checked by fumigation or dusting with Tobacco powder. Cannas. — A few of these for early flowering may now be started. Pot up single crowns in large 3-inch pots, unless bulky specimens are required. Generally the flower-spikes from single crowns are much larger. Fibrous loam, leaf-soil, and sand will be sufficient for starting them. When potting on into 6-inch pots, in which they will flower, use a rich soil. Cannas being gross feeders, they require 62 THE GARDEN. [January 28, 1905. abundance of water when growing freely. Good drainage must be given. Seeds for the Greenhouse.— Now is a suitable time to sow many seeds. Use pots and pans half filled with crocks. For the majority of the follow- ing use soil composed of two-thirds loam and one- third leaf-soil, adding plenty of sand. Cover the seeds about their own depth with soil. Strepto- carpus, Clerodendron fallax, Saintpaulia ionantha, Grevillea robusta, Cordyline indivisa Veitchii, Smila.x, Statice, Ardisia crenata, Asparagus, Angelonias, Primula Forbesi and P. oboonica, Marguerite and perpetual - flowering Carnations, Solanum melongena, &c. Pinus canariensis is very easily raised from seed, and makes a very pretty decorative plant for tlie cool greenhouse or as a table plant. General Remarks.— Start Richardia elliottiana in a gentle heat, using a compost of equal parts loam and leaf-soil, adding sand in proportion. Ciladiums may also be shaken out and started in pans. If more stock is required the oorms can be cut up when the growth is a few inches long. Look carefully over herbaceous Calceolarias for damp leaves at the base. Pot on when required. Many Ferns are looking rather unsightly just now. Give rather less water, pick off brown fronds and avoid much fire-heat preparatory to potting about the middle of next month. For early work a few Adiantum cuneatum should be induced to throw up young fronds before potting. Place a few Dielytra spectabilis and Astilbes (Spiraeas) into he*t. Royal Gardens, Kew. A. Osborn. KITCHEN GARDEN. Soot as a Manure.— The excellence of soot as a vegetable fertiliser is frequently lost sight of. The thought occurs that if soot were more expensive and less plentiful, its virtues would be more readily appreciated and its nutritive qualities oftener taken advantage of by vegetable cultivators. Besides stimulating young growing plants, it is the best remedy known to me for keeping in check such ravagers as slugs and snails. If our Carrot bed of last year had not received an almost daily dusting of soot I have grave doubts if one Carrot would have survived. An adjacent bed of Rhubarb provided an agreeable harbourage for slimy pests. From this hiding-place they issued in hundreds, making straight tracks for the young Carrots, until they were effectually brought to bay by their enemy the soot. It may be argued that soot is awkward to handle, but this difficulty can be considerably lessened by applying it in calm and showery weather. From soot a valuable liquid manure can also be obtained by filling an old artificial manure bag of open texture, and plunging it in a barrel or tank of soft water. A ready supply will thus always be at hand, but before applying the liquid it must be ascertained that the soil is in a moist condition. Soot may be very beneficially used for potting purposes ; a little added to the soil, say, a 9-inch potful to a barrow load of soil, will produce vigorous plants and deep-green leaves. A sprinkling of soot ought to be mixed with dry soil and laid in the bottom of drills prepared for Peas and Beans, both of which must be sown on the first favourable opportunity. Choose a border with a southern exposure. Sow Peas in lines about 4 feet apart, making the drills about 3 inches deep. Sow rather thickly at this season, cover lightly with dry soil, and finish by drawing in the furrows. Beans should be planted in rows 3 feet apart, allowing 4 inches to 6 inches from seed to seed. Jerusalem Artichokes. — Although these are sometimes grown year after year in the same place without showing signs of deterioration I consider it advisable to give them a change of ground. If the weather is suitable they should now be lifted and graded, selecting those of a suitable size for seed, the larger tubers to be placed in a heap in some convenient spot tor supplying the kitchen, and covered with soil to keep them plump and fresh. The smaller tubers may be planted when the ground is being dug. Make the rows 3 feet apart, and leave from 15 inches to IS inches between the seeds. Mushrooms. — Collect a quantity of fresh horse manure that has not been exposed to wet, and clear it of long straws. Then chop up some fresh turf into pieces about 3 inches square, using only the fibrous part. Mix well with the manure, and turn every two or three days until the rank heat has gone. This will take about eight days, when it will be ready to form the bed in the Mushroom house. This is made by placing a layer about 3 inches thick of the prepared mixture. Beat firm with a mallet or brick, add more layers in the same manner until a depth of 12 inches to 15 inches has been obtained. When the temperature of the bed has subsided to 87'' Fahr., take good fresh spawn, break up into pieces the size of a hen's egg and insert immediately below the surface, keeping the pieces about 9 inches apart. Cover with the mould left over from the chopped turf used in the prepara- tion of the Mushroom bed. Finally beat firmly and cover with a layer of straw. .James Jeffrey. The Garden-^, St. Mary's Isle, Kii-kcudbright. ORCHIDS. The Graceful Spring-flowering Platyclinis (Dendrochilum) glumacea is now commencing to push up its new rosy-coloured growths. Its variety pallida, which has pale green shoots, is also starting to grow. Both plants should be suspended near the roof glass. The proper time to repot these plants is either immediately they commence to grow or within a short time after flowering. They will root freely in a compost of good fibrous peat, leaf-soil, and chopped sphagnum moss in equal pro- portions, adding a moderate quantity of broken crocks and coarse silver sand. All should be well mixed together. As the growths push up and the new roots that quickly follow enter the soil the supply of water must be gradually increased. On bright days syringe the under sides of the leaves to keep down red spider, to which all Platyclinis are subject. The pretty P. uncata is now in bloom, and, being suspended from the roof, is very attractive ; its graceful thread-like racemes are GRAPE MADRESFIELD COURT. very similar in character to the well-known P. fili- formis, but the flowers are of a greener shade and individually larger. After the flowers have faded the plant may be repotted, if necessary, and be kept fairl}' moist at the root until growth is com- plete. At the present time plants of P. filiformis and P. cobbiana are at rest, but they should not be allowed to become too dry, as the tender leaves are apt to turn yellow and fall off. This may be averted by syringing them overhead every morning with tepid rain water. The Platyclinis are usuallj' placed in the Eist Indian house to make their growth, but I find the plants keep in better health if allowed to remain in the intermediate house the whole year round. Cyprifedium insigne is a plant long introduced into our gardens, and has always been a general favourite among gardeners owing to its vigorous constitution and easy culture. As the handsome flowers appear freely during the winter season, and last a long time in good condition, they are espe- cially valuable for cutting and decorative purposes. As seen by the remarkable exhibit of Mr. G. F. Moore at the new Horticultural Hall on Novem- ber 15 last, there are many C. insigne varieties now known, some of them better than others, and the best certainly deserve a place in the most select collections. In C. insigne Sander^and C. i. Hare- field Hall varieties we have undoubtedly two of the best. C. insigne and its varieties may be repotted or divided as may be necessary as fast as they pass out of flower. Plants that have become pot-bound and strong healthy specimens may be placed in pots '2 inches more in diameter than those they are now growing in. Cypripediums do not require so much drainage as many other Orchids ; about one-third the depth of the pot will be sutficient. Place a thin layer of rough moss over the crocks, so as to prevent the small particles of compost being washed down among the drainage. When repotting keep the collar of the plants just below the level of the pot rim. The compost should consist of coarse fibrous peat, fibrous loam, and sphagnum moss in equal parts, adding some broken crocks to keep it porous. After repotting afford water with discretion until the plants become well rooted. When in full growth C. insigne and its numerous varieties require copious supplies of moisture at the root, and they should never be allowed to become dry. Like many other Orchids which have no pseudo-bulbs, they have no definite season of rest. A cool, shady part of the intermediate house is the best place for them. Where such accommodation is not at hand the ordinary greenhouse where frost is excluded will suit them, proper attention being afforded in the matter of watering, shade, &c. Burford, Dorking. W. H. White. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible tor the opinions expressed by correspondents. ) ORCHIDS AND CACTI. [To the Editor of "The G.^rden."] SI R, — I enclose you a photograph of Odonto- glossum grande. It was one of four that I purchased for a few shillings twelve months ago. It has been grown in a very low temperature, with the top light open night and day, so is fairly hardy. It is grown in peat, loam, and sphagnum moss, with plenty of drainage, and, as it carries eighteen blooms, I am very pleased with my first success. I also enclose you a photograph of my house, showing the various plants grown together. Orchids and Cacti. I may state I never let the tempera- ture rise above 50* during the winter months, and have Orchids in bloom in each month of the year, and the plants grow well and strong together. Manor Park, E. John Hiron. [Unfortunately the photographs were not suit- able for reproduction. — Ed.] GRAPE MADRESFIELD COURT. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — The bunches of Grapes illustrated are from young Vines inarched upon White Lady DowneV, and were remarkable for colour and size, both of bunch and berry ; the berries also did not split. Whether the grafting was responsible or not, I am not prepared to say (for the vexed question of the effect of stock upon scion needs a good deal of threshing out), but certainly the bunches under notice were greatly superior to others of the same variety and in the same vinery, which were growing upon their own roots. The weight of three bunches was about 141b. F. .J. Sage. Thi: Gardens, Bif'rons Park, Cmiterbiiri/. [We should like to have an opinion from corre- spondents who have grown White Lady Uowne'.s Grape. We have rarely heard of it before. — Ed.] CHRYSANTHEMUMS. [To the Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I am sending you a photograph of our Chrysanthemums here. As you will see, the stage January 28, 1905.] THE GARDEN, 63 ia about 2 feet 6 inches from the ground, and the hot- water pipes are just underneath it, so the only way we can arrange our Chrysanthemums is to tie them down to form a bank. Some of the plants were 7 feet high this year ; we have to tie them down to cover the pots, and then incline them towards the glass at the back which would be about 2 feet 6 inches from the stage. The plant stems are apt to break, but anyone having a stage like ours will be well repaid by following this method. We have about 100 pots, and generally put two plants in a 16-inch and two or three in 12-inoh pots in case one should break. W. C. Smith. The Gardens, Ecton Hall, Northampton. THE WINTER MOTH. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Your correspondent, "A. de L. L. ,"in her note about the " Winter Moth " (Cheiraatobia brumata) in The Garden of the 7th inst., page21, has not got her story right, as she has apparently mixed up the life history of two very diflferent moths. The caterpillars of the winter moth attack the buds, leaves, and at times quite young fruit, but it is the caterpillar of the Codlin moth (Carpo- capsa pomonella) that infests the Apples and causes them to be what is commonly called " worm eaten." The greasy bands are not of much use as a preven- tive in the case of an attack by the Codlin moth, as the females are winged and can fly just as well as the males, but it is useful to tie hay-bands twisted twice round the stems so tightly that no insect can crawl under them, for the caterpillars of this moth, when they leave the fruit, climb up the stems until they find a suitable shelter in some inequality in the bark, &c., in which they can become chrysalides, and the hay-bands provide them with a very convenient resting-place. Almost better than the hay-bands is a strip of sacking or canvas about 8 inches wide, folded in half, and then again so as to form a band of four thick- nesses ; it should be tied or wired tightly round the tree with the doubly folded edge uppermost, about 3 feet from the ground. These traps should be placed in position early in June and not removed while there is anj' fruit on the trees. They should be examined every week, and any insects sheltering in them destroyed. " A. de L. L. " pays a well-deserved tribute to the work done by Miss Ormerod, but it was a pity she did not pay her the compliment of reading her books more carefully before she wrote her letter. G. S. S. SOME CRITICISMS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — As a constant reader and student of The Garden, it occurs from time to time that I am somewhat puzzled by what I read, due occasionally to what appear to me to be ambiguous expressions, or because the matter clashes in my mind with pre- conceived ideas derived from other sources. This being so, it has occurred to me that other readers may be similarly situated, and that an occasional criticism may lead to welcome elucidations. Flowers of Mystery (page 21, January 14). — Delighted as I was with this charmingly-written note, I feel compelled to challenge the allusion to " treacherous snow — hiding black deceit beneath its whiteness and death within its seeming purity — flowers lulled to wakeless sleep." Is this really fair ? I have always understood that exactly the contrary was the case — that is, that the snowy mantle was beneficient rather than destructive, protecting the delicate plants beneath it from the rigours of wintry blast and from destructive frost. If it were otherwise, how can we account for the wondrous beauty of the alpine flora and its known vigour of growth and inflorescence so soon as the wintry mantle disappears ? The " wakeless sleep " is surely a misplaced term in such circumstances, and the epithet " treacherous " somewhat of a calumny. Coloured Primroses (page 22). — Here I am puzzled about the origin of the blue Primrose. In the first place, its birth was witnessed by your correspon- dent at Wisley, and it was subsequently christened Scott Wilson ; but he then proceeds to say that " it took many years of patient selection to bring Oakwond Blue to life, this being the parent of the present race of blue Primroses." Surely, even if Oakwood Blue descended from Scott Wilson — as I assume is implied — the latter would be more fit- tingly designated the parent of the race. It would also be very interesting to know what sort of a blue was Scott Wilson, and whether it originated, as its discovery "on a hillside under the shelter of a Furze bush" appears to imply, as a wild sport of the common yellow Primrose. Wrong Ways of Showing Carnations. — Here I have no criticism to make, but hearty thanks to give for such an attack upon a ridiculous custom. In my humble opinion any flower which is exhibited other than in its natural form should be disqualified from any recognition. If a flower undoubtedly due to the constant suppression of "sports," which are outside the pale as it were, but which, as in the case of striped, fringed, and double types might very possibly be worked up selectively and largely relieve the monotony now so prevalent. Ignoramus. A NOVEL WAY OF ARRANGING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. (The plants are tied down so as to form a bank of louvrs.) cannot perfect itself naturally in those points which constitute merit, it is not worth growing, and the selective cultivator should refrain from bringing it forward until he has managed to cure its defects. The weak point of most up-to-date Carnations is the bursting of the calyx, and a mode of exhibiting which permits this great fault to be hidden is absurd and nothing less. Vitality of Seeds (page xiii.).— I thought the mummy Wheat question was long since exploded, and now in the Irish Times mummy Beans crop up circumstantially as having sprouted and grown into plants after 1,000 years' burial, which period applied to apparently Oriental mummies is un- usually moderate. Can any reliable botanist con- firm this, and if not, should not an editorial query be attached to data of this extra-horticultural Press kind ? Fashion in Gardening (page xiii). — I wonder what Mr. Hudson of Gunnersbury thinks of the idea expressed in the above note, that nobody should attempt to make a Japanese garden unless he has lived in Japan and (mark this) acquired the language, and, furthermore, studied the Japanese mental attitude, traditional love, and so on. Has Mr. Elwood ever been to Gunnersbury, and does Mr. Hudson speak Japanese ? I imagine not, and yet I fancy I am not alone in thinking the Japanese garden there a wonderful picture, or rather a aeries of pictures. Striped and other Auriculas (page 21). — I close this chapter of carpings and queries with a word of admiration for Mr. R. Dean's advocacy of a more liberal taste in these charming flowers. I and my fellow ignorami can detect little or no advancement in the annual exhibits, and this is ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions a.nd Answers. — The Editor intends to ma/ce The Garden Jielp/ul to alt readers who desire assistance, no matter what the branch of (jardeninxj may be, and with that object wilt make a special feature of the " Ansicers t« Corre- spondents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to tlie Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, .Strand, London. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he vMy desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each sliould be on a separate piece of paper. Names of Plants. — Ino. — Panicum plicatum. G. E. Webh. — Dansea Laurus (Alexandrian Laurel). Names of Fruits. — A. Dimsdale. — 1, Lady's Finger of Lancaster ; 2 and 3, Red Hawlhornden (Yorkshire Beauty). S. O. i?.— Pear Easter Beurr^. Breaking up Old Pasture for Potatoes (G. J. G. G.).— The land should be bastard- trenched to as great a depth as possible, the turf being buried beneath the top spit. Do not use any rank manure at all, but only that which has been thoroughly rotted down and sweetened. If you plant in drills you can scatter in some wood ashes and soot, covering with a little soil, and then putting in the sets. These should be sprouted before planting, either one or two buds being retained and the remainder removed. For this purpose shallow boxes and a light, frost-proof place are essential. The ideal size of set is one weighing 3oz., and they should be 18 inches apart in the rows, and 30 inches from row to row. Duke of York and Sir John Llewelyn are both excellent varieties in soils which suit them, as also is May Queen. You give no indication of your district, but you will be wise to procure seed from a distance. Before the first earthing a dressing of nitrate of soda, 2oz. to a dozen yards' run of row, or sulphate of ammonia, 3oz. over the same extent, put on the soil — not on the plants — will do much good. Twelve Apples for Pyramids (C /. G. G.). — You ought to have supplied some definite informa- tion as to your place of residence, aspect of the garden, and depth and character of the soil, as all these points prove of material assistance in formu- lating intelligent replies. Presumably you desire to cover as long a season as possible, in which case you will find the following a good selection. It should be noted that in some districts and soils certain varieties of Apples canker much more freely than others, notably Keswick Codlin and Wellington (Dumelow's Seedling), and a little time in neighbouring gardens will be advantageously spent in ascertaining these things. Here are the names, not precisely in their order of ripening : Keswick Codlin, or Lord Sufiield if the former cankers ; The Queen, Stirling Castle, Ecklinville, Lord Grosvenor, Bismarck, Royal Jubilee. Lord Derby, Warner's King, Bramley's Seedling, Newton Wonder, and Wellington. It is assumed that you will procure trees on the broad-leaved English Paradise stock, and that you understand at least the rudiments of planting, pruning, and general management. If not, you must read The Garden most carefully. Early Melons (Granta). — The middle of January is a good time to sow the first batch of Melon seeds, there being very little advantage in sowing, as some do, at Christmas. A light house, plenty of heat, both top and bottom, and a fairly rich loam — not sifted, but rubbed down with the hand, and all stones removed— is the best for 64 THE GAEDEN. [January 28, 1905. growing the seedlings in. The soil should be warmed for a night previous to sowing, and the pots filled to within a quarter of an inch of their rims, as Melon plants, unlike Cucumbers, are ripened by earthing up the stems. Two seeds should be inserted in each pot, and when germinated the weakest drawn out. This is much better than sowing many seeds in a pot or pan and afterwards potting off. If the soil be fairly moist, no water will be necessary until the seedlings appear, when the pots should be arranged on a shelf near the glass, except in cold stormy weather, when they may with advantage occupy a lower position in the house. A bottom-heat of 90" and a minimum top-heat of 70" is best for the plants. For early work no variety surpasses the well-known Hero of Lockinge. KosES IN Exposed Situations {Mrs. Heaton). — In many situations which are fully open to east winds and cutting blasts during April and the beginning of May it is next to impossible to grow Roses as standards. All first growths invariably get crippled, aphis appears in great numbers, and no blooms worth naming are forthcoming till secondary growths produce them in .July. In such cases it is well to plant dwarfs, either on their own roots or worked on the Manetti, and to leave eufiicient space all over the beds or borders to allow of a free distribution of roots of the common double Daffodil. These should be planted in clumps, and the pruning of the Roses deferred till the end of March. The growths should then be cut hard back to the almost dormant eyes. In the meantime the Daffodils will be making vigorous growth, and will afford a grateful shelter to the Rose shoots by the time they are 1 inch long and onward till genial weather prevails. Making Fruit and Kitchen Garden (H. P. M,). — It is somewhat difficult to give you satisfactory advice, for so much depends on circumstances and surroundings ; the more so as you have no trained practical man to do the work. As the land you wish to make into a garden was formerly a kitchen garden, no doubt the soil is good. The turf should be taken off if you require it for potting purposes or planting fruit trees and things of this sort ; if not, then it should be dug into the land. Trenching 2 feet is the best thing to do with the land before planting anything — turning the top spit under. No doubt the soil underneath is good enough to bring to the top. If the land is poor then it would be wise to add manure, mixing it with the bottom spit of soil. When the trees are planted mulch them with rotten manure ; this would he better than working manure into the soil to come in contact with the roots. In a general way fresh trenched land is good enough for growing vegetables the first season. You may plant hedges of any kind until the end of March and even later, providing you are prepared to give every attention to watering during the summer, but the earlier they can be planted the better. Evergreens and Holly may be planted until the middle of May. We should advise you to plant your fruit trees in a portion of ground to them- selves, as you need the garden for vegetables and flower growing. In this way the roots of the fruit trees do not get cut off or driven into the cold sub- soil. The land may be kept clean, and manure placed as atop-dressing when it is needed as growth advances. Apples, Pears, Plums, &c., may be planted wide enough apart to allow for one or more rows of bush fruit between them, and Straw- berries may be grown among them for the first three years. The Holly hedges that are too high, if in good health, may be cut down to any height you may wish in March or early in April. It would not be advisable to plant fruit trees near a hedge of any kind ; the roots of the hedge trees would get among the fruit tree roots and rob them of nourish- ment. Plant nothing but the very best sorts of fruit, and, if you can find out any really good ones that are a success in gardens near you, include them ; this especially applies to Pears and Strawberries, as these are much influenced by soil and climate. Many early and late crops may be had from the southern slope if not too dry, such as Strawberries, salad. Potatoes, &c. You should have this work pushed forward without delay, or the season will be over for planting fruit trees. It would be wise to let some of it wait till next autumn rather than do it unsatisfactorily now. Write again if we can help you further. Liming Garden Soil {E. C. A.). — As yours is a light soil on clay we hope that j'ou buried your manure deep to encourage roots to go down in search of food in hot dry weather. If you can another year trench 2 feet deep, without bringing up the clay, and put a good dessing of manure below the top spit, you will do wonders towards making your garden productive. As to liming the ground, light soils want little as a rule. But you may apply at once half a bushel per rod. Put down the lime fresh from the kiln in heaps of one bushel to each two rods of ground, and just cover each heap with soil. In a week or ten days it will have slaked. Then spread it about quite evenly and fork it in. Clay soils, as a rule, most need lime dressing. Of tree or perpetual Carnations, Winter Cheer (scarlet), Mme. T. Franco (pink), Uriah Pike (crimson), and Deutche Brant (white), are usually good growers. So small a greenhouse will not enable you to grow many plants, but the temperature mentioned will do. You can grow in winter Chinese Primroses, Cyclamen, Roman Hyacinths, and Deutzias, and in the summer any tender flowering plants. Planting Roses, Clematis, &c. (E. Bertram). — We are handicapped in advising, as you give no idea whatever of the size of your garden. It is very questionable if Rhododendrons would succeed in the position you name, as from the diagram it appears too much shaded. The soil also is not favourable to Rhododendrons ; to give them a good chance the soil must be taken out to a depth of 3 feet, some brick rubble put in the bottom, and the hole filled up with a mixture containing a good proportion of peat, with, if possible, some rough sand. It appears also too much shaded for the Wistaria to flower well, though it would grow freely enough. The back of the house seems to us the best position for the Wistaria, in which case a good climbing plant for the front would be the Fire Thorn (Cratnsgus Pyracantha), whose scarlet berries form such a notable feature in autumn and winter. You should have no difficulty with Roses and Clematis — that is if the ground is well dug, and, if necessary, some thoroughly decayed manure incorporated with it. If of a stiff nature wood ashes are par- ticularly beneficial, serving to lighten it and make it more workable. The following hardy shrubs with approximate height and season of flowering would be likely to do well in your soil and aspect : Berberis Aquifolium, 4 feet, yellow, April ; Berberis Darwini, G feet, orange yellow. May. Both these are evergreen, while the following good flowering subjects are deciduous : Amelanchier vulgaris, 8 feet to 10 feet, white, April ; Cydonia japonica (Japan Quince), in variety, 4 feet as a bush, twice that on a wall, red to white, early spring ; Daphne Mezereura, 4 feet, red, February ; Deulzia scabra flore pleno, 6 feet, white, midsummer; Hibiscus syriacas, 4 feet to 6 feet, different colours, August ; Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, 3 feet to 4 feet, creamy white, August and September ; Kerria japonica fl. -p., 6 feet, yellow, summer; Magnolia stellata, 2 feet, white, March ; Phila- delphus (Mock Orange) of sorts, from 3 feet to 10 feet, white, .June and early July; Ribes san- guineum (Flowering Currant), 4 feet, colours various, April and May ; Spira3i Anthony Waterer, 2 feet, crimson, summer ; Spir^a arguta, 4 feet, white, end of April ; Spiraea callosa, 6 feet, red, summer; Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry), 4 feet to 0 feet, white berries, autumn and winter ; Syringa (Lilac) in variety ; Weigelasof sorts, three of the best being Abel Carriere, rose ; Candida, while ; and Eva Rathke, carmine-red, 6 feet to 8 feet. May. Of climbing plants, besides the Clematis and Wistaria named by you there are Cotoneaster microphylla, red berries in winter ; Jasmines, Honeysuckles, Forsythia suspensa, with yellow flowers in early spring ; and, of course. innumerable Ivies. Though the above shrubs are selected for their flowering qualities, there are others whose ornamental leaves are their claim to recognition. The following are evergreen: Aucubas in variety. Box, Elseagnus in variety, Euonymus of sorts. Holly in variety, Japanese Privet, and others. Herbaceous plants innumerable are available for your purpose. Special mention may be made of Anemones, Asters (Michaelmas Daisies), Cheiranthus (Wallflowers), early-flowering Chry- santhemums, Delphiniums of sorts, Doronicum austriacum, Gaillardias of sorts, Heleniums in variety, Helianthus, a few good sorts : Hollyhocks, Megaseas, Monarda didyma, (Enotheras (Evening Primrose), Poppies, Phlox in variety. Primulas, Rudbeckias of sorts, Solidago (Golden Rod), Tritomas (Red-hot Poker Plants), TroUius (Globe Flower), Pfeonies in variety, Iris of sorts, par- ticularly what is known as German Iris ; and Pyrethrums. All of the above should be planted as soon as possible, providing the weather is open and suitable for the purpose. BoRONiA megastigma (G-reenwood Pirn). — Like most of the plants to which it belongs, known popularly as hard- wooded, or New Holland, plants, this Boronia is not very easy to strike from cuttings, while, on the other hand, it is by no means one of the most diificult. The best time of year for the operation is in April or May, the young growing shoots being selected for the purpose. They should be taken off with a sharp knife just below a joint, and when the bottom leaves are removed are then ready for insertion. A length of about 2 inches is a very suitable one for the cuttings, which should be selected from good sturdy shoots of medium vigour, the very strong, sni also the weak ones, being rejected for this purpose. As it will be necessary to cover the cuttings with a bell- glass the pots or pans prepared for their reception should be of a size to fit the bell-glass, or glasses, that are available. The pots should be quite clean, and drained with broken crocks to within 2 inches of the rim, the top layer of the crocks being very small in order to prevent any of the fine soil passing through. Peat passed through a sieve with a J-inch mesh, and clean silver sand in equal proportions, form a suitable compost. It must be pressed down very firmly, and in inserting the cuttings take especial care that the soil is quite close around them. When a pot is finished give a good watering through a fine rose in order to settle everything in its place, and, after being allowed half an hour or so to drain, cover with the bell-glass and place, if possible, in a structure just a little warmer than that of a greenhouse in which the plants have grown. If this is not avail- able stand them in the warmest part of the green- house, as far as possible away from direct draughts, and of course they must be kept well shaded. The principal attention needed will be to water when required, and the occasional removal of the bell- glass to wipe ofl' any condensed moisture, or to pick off the least signs of decay. As a rule they will root in about a couple of months, and when this takes place, which may be known by the shoots commencing to grow, the bell-glass should be gradually removed, and the freshly-struck cuttings inured to the ordinary atmosphere of the green- house. In potting off the cuttings peat, with a liberal admixture of silver sand, should be used. The young plants will need stopping occasionally to induce a bushy habit of growth. Seeds are some- times obtainable, and when such is the case they afford a ready means of increase ; but in nurseries cuttings are preferred, as they flower well in a smaller state than seedlings. Clover (A. W. Foster). — We have sent you word where to obtain the Valerian. The common Clover (Trifolium pratense) is not cultivated for its cut flowers. There are, however, two or three orna- mental species grown in gardens. T. pannonicura, with heads of creamy white flowers, and T. rubens, with dense heads of showy carmine flowers. Scabiosa caucasica is a wild species from the Caucasus, and has not been developed from the common Scabious. It is doubtful if Clover would reward one's efforts to improve it. January 'IS, 1905.] THE GARDEN. Shrubs with Coloured Wood {E. W. C). — The red-stemmed Dogwood (Cornus alba) would do well under the conditions you name, and form a welcome bit of colouring during the winter months. "There is a variety of this Dogwood generally known in gardens as Cornus alba, in which the bark is of a yellow or greenish yellow colour, but as yet it is little known, and compared with the red- eteninied form decidedly expensive. It would -certainly be worth your while to try the Golden Willow (Salix vitellina), cutting it down each year and thus keeping it to bush form. In soil cf even moderate moisture it will do well, and under such ■conditions the yellow of the bark is of a rir^her hue than if it is growing very strongly. That Himalayan member of the Bramb'e family •ime of either gas or oil used largely governs the heating force. Eich apparatus should have a small cistern or feeder attached to supply water. We cannot recommend one apparatus as better than another when all are good. Get ** Greenhouse and Window Plants," price Is. (Macmillan and Co., London), or "Greenhouse Management," price is. '21. (Cassell and Co., La Belle Siuvage, Ludgate Hill, London). Slugs and Ants in a Garden {Egremont).— Applying lime and soot freely in the autumn, after the ground is turned up roughly, makes it objec- tionable to slugs : but, of course, it is too late to do that now. Salt will kill them, but in any quantity it would do harm to the plants. If you could sprinkle salt upon the ground near the hedee in the evening, when the slugs come out to feed, you would probably soon check their incursions and also considerably reduce their numbers. Salt kills them almost immediately. Next autumn you might apply gas-lime, after it has been exposed for a few days ; break it up as finely as possible, and apply it as a lnp-dres«ing, digging it in. This will clear the soil for some years, and it is cheap. We have destroyed ants in greenhouses by pouring boiling water on them ; but this would harldly be practicable out of doors. They dislike Keating's Powder, so you might sprinkle some of this about their haunts. You should try some of the special remedies advertised in The Garden. A Useful Winter Begonia (Gladys Berry). — Bpgonia Gloire de Lorraine is a beautiful winter- flowering Begonia, and valuable not only for its freedom and refined colour, but also for the length of time it remains in beautj'. As suggested by the name, it is a French-raised hybrid between B. socotrana and B. Dregei. It has been in bloom for fully ihiee months, and appears likely to continue many weeks more. It is interesting to know that M. Lenioine effected the cross in January, 1891, and plants flowered freely in the following November. The flowers are produced in free clusters, so to say, and are rich rose in colour, deepening at the margin, the centre yellow. The leaves are of neat shape, light in colour, and very much like those of C. weltoniensis. Crocuses [M.]. — These must beplan ted in autumn, and in masses if you wish for beautiful effefcts. Our illustration will help you. Seaweed as Manure (//. i/j/att)-— Sea weed has long been used as a top- dre.'sing for Asparagus, Seakale, and other crops, but many who live where it is easily procured do not appear to realise how valuable it is. During the intense drought that prevailed last summer many cottagers who had dressed their allotments with seaweed found their crops green and luxuriant, while on the next allot- ments, where no seaweed had been used, the crops were drooping and dying. The general opinion amongst those who have used seaweed for Potatoes, Carrots, and other root crops is that wireworms and grubs are far less troublesome. Flowers of many kinds luxuriate splendidly when the soil is dressed with seaweed. Roses for Scotland (liiyWamUr). — Have you tried any of the Ayrshire Roses and their hybrids? They are ramblers, they grow rap'dly, anil often will thrive in situations where others will not ; either for covering your banks or for training up pillars we think you could hardly do better than iry some of these. Good sorts are Bennett's Seedlingand D'lndee Rambler, both white and semi-double. The Scotch Roses (R. spinosissima) flower freely early in the season, so that it would be worth while to try some of these. The flowers are double, and they mav be had in various colours — difl'erent shades of yellow and red. Either for a hedge or a bank the Scotch Rose is suitable. Have vou tried Crimson Rambler as a pillar Rose ? It grows vigorously and flowera freely, so probably would thrive well with you. The sorts you have selected appear not to be sufficiently vigorous, for unless you get a strong growth on vour plants you cannot expect them to flower well. The common China, which is a very free flowering sort, with bright pink flowers, would probably suit you. We think if you were to try some of the most vigorous of the Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas you would be more successful than you have been. Of Hybrid Perpetuals you might try Charles Lefebvre, crimson; Comtesse de Lndre, carmine ; Tom Wood, cherry red ; Suzanne Marie Rhodo- canachi, rosy cerise ; Victor Verdier. rosy carmine ; Spenser, pink and white ; Pride of Waltham, flesh colour ; Mrs. John Laing. soft pink ; Marchioness of Londonderry, white ; Etienne Levet, carmine ; Dupuy Jamain, cerise ; Duke of Edinburgh, scarlet crimson ; and Crown Prince, purple-crimson. Among Teas and Hybrid Teas you should plant Griis an Teplilz, crimson-scarlet ; Grace Darling, cream and pink ; Caroline Testout, bright rose ; Corallina, coral red ; Antoine Rivoire, rosy flesh ; La France, palero^e ; Belle Lyonnaise, pale yellow ; and Reine Marie Henriette, red. Privet Diseased ((?. S., Manor Par/.-).— Your Privet is apparently attacked by one of the leaf- burrowing flies, which deposit their eggs in the leaf, and when hatched out the little grubs burrow between the skins of the leaves, feeding as they go on. One of this class is very destructive to Marguerites. The flies themselves are so tiny that they are rarely caught, and from the sheltered position of the grubs insecticides of any kind are useless. The only way is to watch the plants, pick off any leaves directly they are seen to be attacked, and burn them. The Privet which seems to be the source of your trouble had better be cut down at once and burnt. This hot-bed of the pest being removed, you will probably, by close attention, be able to keep your Cornus free from disfigurement. When to Dig Heavy Soils (E. S. Edimmds).— Gardeners who have a heavy soil find it more difficult to select favourable opportunities for digging than those who have sandy soils to deal with. Especially is this noticeable in a season like the present. The moisture from light land drains away quickly, and after a couple of dry days the digging may be proceeded with. But not so on heavy land, as at this period of the year a week or two is needed to bring it into condition for working, and very likely several weeks have to elapse before such an opportunity occurs. It seems good advice to recommend the digging of all heavy land in the autumn, so that the winter's frosts and snow can act upon it. Unforlunatelj', there are heavy soils that cannot be so dealt with even during the most favourable periods for autumn digging. The best period we have found to operate on such heavy soils is to wait until February is in, and then if a dry period occurs commence digging in earnest. Turn the soil up roughly with digging forks — not spades upon any consideration — and the frosts and drying winds will act upon it ; and by the time it is wanted for sjiring cropping it will work very freely. The result will be a good depth of pul- verised soil, which may quickly be prepared for cropping. X. THE GAEDEN. [January 'J-o, 1'J05. The Best Ivy (Fredenborg), — The best IV3' for clothing the ground under trees is what is known as the Irish Ivy (Hedera Hislix canariensis); it is a quick grower, with handsome darii green leaves. In England we do not hear complaints of deer or squirrels eating the leaves of Iv^', but deer will eat more or less freely of most shrubs. Plum or Pear tor a Gable End (C. J. G. C?.). — You would find that, if the soil is suitable, either a Peaca or a Nectarine would flourish splendidly in such a good position. However, you say Plum or Pear, but you do not add whether you prefer early or late. Two excellent Plums are Jefferson's and Coe's Golden Drop, the former coming in early in September, and the latter after the middle of October ; or you could have one of the Transparent Gages, whose flavour is superb. If you decide upon a Pear, and wish for h.indsomeness of appear- ance and size, plant Pitmaston Duchess. If you wish for superiority of flavour with good appear- ance, choose from Doyenne du Cornice, Marie Louise, or Louise Bonne de Jersey. Various Qdestions {Beginner). — (1) On the west wall plant climbing Roses Belle Lyonnaise, Reine Marie Henriette, Longworth Rambler, W. A. Richardson, and Clematis montana. The Clematis will fill up the top of the high wall and hang about gracefully. (2) Climbers for north side of house, Ampelopsis Veitchi. Jasminum nudiflorum, and Ivy Emerald Green. (3) Climbers for wall 6 feet high, drauiihty position, Forsythia suspensa, Eire Thorn (Pyracantha), and Berberis stenophylla. (4) Prunus Pissardi, Spiraea ariffifolia, Ber- beris stenophylla, Weigela arborea grandiflora, Viburnum Lantana, and Venetian Sumach. (5) Hardy annuals— Godetiaa in variety, Nemo- philas in variety, Shirley Poppies, Sweet Peas, Nasturtiums, Mignonette, Sweet Sultan, Clarkias in variety, Virginia Stock, Cbrysanthem'jms various, Larkspurs, and Love-in-a-Mist. Perennials — Erigeron speciosus, Gypsophila paniculata, Statice incana. Chrysanthemum maximum, Coreopsis grandiflora; , Scabiosa caucasica. Delphinium Cambridge Blue, Doronicum Harpur Crewe, Starworts in variety, Achillea The Pearl, Geum coccineura plenum, Helianthus multiflorus, Lupinus arboreus, herbaceous Phloxes in variety. Pyre- thrums in variety. Carnations, Pinks, (fee. (6) Broad- leaved Weeping Elm. (7) Scarlet Thorn, Scotch Laburnum, double-blossomed Cherry, and red Horse Chestnut. Chrysan'thkmums Jean Delaux and Leocadie Gentils (F. if. H.). — A few years ago most of the Chrysanthemum specialists catalogued that fine old deep crimson Japanese variety Jean Delaux. We remember the time when it was very popular ; when well grown it was a flower of high quality. None of the specialists appear to grow it now, but we have asked an enthusiast, whom we think can help you, to communicate with 3-0U direct if you will send us your address. The other variety, Leocadie Gentils, is a yellow sport from the one- time popular hairy petalled variety white Louis Boehmer. This variety is mentioned in the catalogue issued by Messrs. W. Wells and Co., Limited, Redhill. Possibly other specialists also have stock of this interesting plant. Colour or Flowers of Eldorado Potato (C Ingamf.lls, Secntary. The British Gardeners' Associa- tion.— Nearly a hundred gardeners of Reigate, Redhill and district met at Redhill on Tuesday, the 10th inst., to hear an address by Mr. Watsoi* of Kew on behalf of the British Gardeners' Association. The meeting was enthusiastically in favour of the project, only one gardener present advancing an3' opposition, whilst a resolution to form a local branch of the association was adopted almost unanimously. Mr. Seaman, head gardener at Margery Hall, Reigate, was elected local secretar3'. A well-attended meeting of gardeners interested in the British Gardeners' Association was held in the lecture-room at the Public Library, Swansea, on the 13ih inst., the chair being occupied by Mr. H. A. Chapman, J. P. After letters had been read from several prominenii local horticulturists regretting their inability to attend and expressing sympathy with the ohjeots of the association, Mr. W. W. Pettigrew, Superin- tendent of Parks, Cardiff, addressed the meeting upon the necessity of such an association of British gardeners being formed to look after the interests of both gardeners and their employers. Mr. R. Hooper Pearson followed. He dealt particularly with the objects of the association as set forth in the prospectus, and strongly urged all present to become members of the association. After somo discussion it was unanimously resolved to form a. local branch, and Mr. D. Bliss, Superintendent of Parks, Swansea, was elected local secretary. Origin of " Mignonette."— In a nolo about Alignonette in The Garden, page 440, December 31, "A. de L. L." writes: " Th» original habitat of Reseda odorata was North Africa, whence it found its way through Italy to Paris. Lord Batemau brought the seed for us from that city in 1742, and, of course, it was the French who called it 'Little Darling,' though, strange to sa3', they now speak of it as Reseda, leaving its pet name with us." With reference to this we have received the following interesting note from Mr. A. A. Pettigiew, Hewell Giange> Gardens, Redditch : "I have just read a letter in Vol. III. of 'Transactions of the Royal Horticul- tural Society,' an extract from which, taken ii> connexion with the note on Mignonette by 'A. de L. L.,' you may think worth quoting itt The Garden, since it corrects a false impression as to the origin of its name. The letter is headed 'Observations on, and Account of, the Cultivation of the Tree Mignonette,' by Joseph Sabine. Esq., F.RS., &c., secretary. Read July 7, 1818.' Th& extract is : '. . . Its introduction into our flower gardens was through the intervention of the late- Lord Batemaii, who brought it from France sooa after the period it was first received by Miller. With Lord B.itenian the appellation of Miguonetto originated. Pleased with the appearance and fragrance of the plant, he gave to it this name of endearment, by which it is not known in France,, the writers and gardeners of that cnuutl'y merely- calling it le Reseda odorant. . . .'" WEATHER NOTES. rainfall in 19c4.— rood ashton, wiltsiiii;e. Taken as a whole, the weather of the past year was most favourable for the garden and field, the fulness of the crops giving elo<|Ucnt testimony to its geniality in all seasons. Thouirh there were- but six actually drier days than in 10113, there is a record of some 17 inches less rain compared with that memorably wet year, and, strange though it seems, there is a difference only of 2" in both th* highest and lowest records of temperature for thoR(* two years. There were seventy-one ffoils in 1904, Januahy20, 1905.] THE GARDEN. SWEET PEAS. AFTER making hundreds of trials with Sweet Peas, and liaving examined many more hundreds on various s_ed trial-grounds, we make the following selection of 12 best varieties for the guidance of those who have not had the opportunity to closely compare and study the vast army which is now in cuhivation. Our packets coniain nearly half an ounce,. or about 200 seeds, unless otherwise stated, a very different allowance from what is generally offered as a packet : — Gaptaii\ of i\\e Blues. Cocciriea, Dorothy Ecl^ford (loo seeds) Hoq. Mrs. Keriyoti. Jat]et Scott. King Edward VII. (loo seeds). Lady G. Han\iltor\. Miss Willmott. Mrs, Dugdale. Mrs. W. Othello. Triumph. Wright (100 seeds). We offer the above splendid Collection for 2/6. Postage 2d. OUR SEED CATALOGUE, which contains a most Select List of both new and old varieties of Vegetable arid Flower Seeds, is Nnw Reari^ , and will be sent free on application. Prices strictly moderate. J. R. PEARSON & SONS, ■ ' CHIL WELL N URSERIES, ' ' LOWDHAM, NOTTS. Established 1832. yo Connection with anv other Firm of a Similar Name. Succersors to the Late BARON VAN PALLANDT. VV & SON'S SPLENDID VEGETABLE . FLOWER SEEDS, AND BULBS AND PLANTS FOR SPRING PLANTING. F^tned for Sterling Worthm Full detailed List will be sent Post Free on application to tt-'r Otbces at Overveen, Haarlem, Holland, or to their Genciral Agents— Messrs. MERTENS & Co., 3, Gross Lane, London^ EmG. THE MISSES HOPKINS, fr.h.s., MERE. KNUISFOftD. Landscape Gardeners, als undertake the re- arrangement o* old gardens, pliinting water g-ardeir* and woods, etc. s. d. 6 Daisy Alice, new salmon quilled ... 2 6 12 ,, Dresden China, liny pink quilled i o 6 ,, Aucubaifolia i 6 6 Blue Primroses, lovely shades 2 o 6 Mauve Primrose?, fine bedder i 6 I Polyanthus, Sky-blue Ccerulea i n 6 ,, Ho=e-in-Ho?e, various 2 o 6 ,, Jdck in the Green, various ... 2 o 4 ,, named Gold Laceti. different ... ... 6 o 12 Primroses, double, including Pompadour and French Grey, all different 8 o 6 Auricula Alexandra, pale lemon 3 o 6 ., Golden Queen 2 o 12 Saxifrages, named (mossy) 3 o 12 Sedums, named all different 3 o 12 Rock Plants, all different ... 4 o Hardy Piiimilas, Hardy and Alpine Plants in great variety. LISTS FREE. ELDORADO, 2/6 (or I oz.. 5/- for 30Z., 7/6 for 50Z.. 10/6 for 8oz., 20/- per lb., 63/= for 3Mbs., 120/- for jibs. As I hold one of the largest stocks of " Eldorado," I am determined not to be undersold by any reliable firm, and have, therefore, reduced my prices as above. To encourage the cultivation of this variety I will give a Prize of £10 FOR ONE TUBER. You have a chance of obtaining; this, as well as a certain and sound investment, if you purchase seed from me. I bought my stock from Massey, with a guarantee that it was direct from Findlay. As an inferior potato is being sold under the name of " Eldorado," all buyers should obtain full proof that the stock they are buying is bond-fide. With regard to its being a sound investment, it needs very little calculation to prove this. If true stock is obtained, from one pound of seed, with very little trouble or expert knowle 'ge, I'h to 2 cwts. of potatoes can be grown, and as 3/6 per lb. is considered to be the price it will fetch next season, it can at once be seen that " Eldorado " is a good investment. Even supposing it does not realise this price, but is sold at 6d. or i/- per lb. (not that it will be), where can you secure a better return for your money? The variety has proved an enormous cropper, absolutely disease resisting, handsome tubers, and cooks splendidly. Catalogue of Potatoes, containing full particulars of above and other prizes, as well as a complete lisE of new and up-to- date varieties, free on application. H. J. JONES, RYECROFT NURSERY, LEWISHAM, S.E. DOBBIE'S scoxch: g'r.q^bi'^ ptoses Succeed Everywhere. Order N*'w. Hybrid Perpetuals ... 7/- per dozen, 25/- per 50 Hybrid Teas 10/6 „ 40/- ,, Tea Scented 15/- ,, 57/6 ,. Moss Roses 9/- ,, 32/6 „ Climbing Roses g/- to 12/- per dozen. All our selection. Carriaee paid. Catalogues on applicati'n to DOBBI.:^ & CO., ROTHESAY, SCOTLAND. Tested Seeds IN Antarctic Regions. GARDENING ON THE S.S. "DISCOVERY." From tile "Illustrated London News." It was Messrs. Carter's Privilege to supply a quantity of their Tested Seeds to Captain Scoit, who took them out to the Antarctic regions in igoi. By favour of the Botanist accompanying the expedi- tion some unused portions were returned to Messrs. Carter in 1904. These were tested, and, notwithstanding the fact that they had twice passed through the tropics and had been e.xposed to a temperaiure of 72° below freezing point, they still grew from 70 to 92^/0. All Carters Seeds are Tested and Proved to be of High Vitality h-fove distnhulion. GARTERS TESTED SEEDS Grow every whcrom LATEST AWARDS : FOUR GOLD MEDALS IN LONDON, 1904. TmE GOLD MEDAL, ST. LOUIS, 1904. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE. ^ Seedsmen bv Special Appointment to HIS MAJESTY THE KING. 237, 238, and 97. HIGH HOLBORN, LONliON. CiTv Branch : 53A, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, E C. >A^tZ>iJ A CENTURY'S REPUTATBOrJ. ESTABLISHED ISOJ. EXHIBITORS Oup Illustrated and Descriptive Catalogue, containing many new and distinct kinds of both FLOWER and VEGETABLE ^^^^"^TiV^^ SEEDS, is now being posted to our customers, and we shall be pleased to forward a copy to all other applicants. SWEET PEAS, a Speciality. See our special Selection of best distinct sorts, all classi fled in colours, and arranged in order of merit in Seed List. PLEASE NOTE. We are offering: CASH PRIZES Shrewsbury Floral Fete and Birmingham Chrysanthemum Show for Collection of Vegetables grown from our Seeds. Full particulars in Seed Gatalogue, Free- Richard Smith & Co., Seed Growers and IVlercliai\ts (for a Century). WORCESTER^ xn. THE GARDEN. [January 28, 1905. compared with sixty-three in the previous year. Those occurring in March did some injury to fruit blossom in low places, and to Plums in particular ; but it is well within the memory of gardeners how favoured were the early months of the 3'ear for fruit blossom, and Strawberries and Apples in particular. During the past ten years tliere have been five with a lesser rainfall than that of 1904. It is worthy of note that the barometer gave the highest reading during the three months of winter and the lowest in February. — \V. Strugnell. NORTH WALES. Month. T i'«i depth. Greatest fal in Numher of days icith 0-Iorniore Inches. Depth. L ate. recorded. January . . 57S .. ■C3 13 24 Fel)niary 4-99 .. le.'i 19 21 llarch 4 S8 1-03 13 IS April 6'4S .. ■74 28 22 Jlay.. .. 4-10 .. 110 •i7 21 June.. .. 1 e" ■51 1 9 July.. .. 314 .. •74 23 21 Au^rnst .. Oi2 ,. 1 25 21 20 Seplember 4-S2 .. 1 65 2 12 October .. 4-21 .. 2 33 IB 15 November a-M .. 65 .S 19 December 7-53 .. ■SO 4 23 Rain gauge : Diameter of funnel, .j inches. Height of top : Above ground, 1 foot ; above sea level, about 50 feet. — John PvOBERTS, The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlch, Merioneth. HAMPSHIRE DISTRICT. The rainfall for 1904 in this locality cannot b3 compared with that of 1903, when the fall was 43^11 inches — a record. Still, in 1904 it was more than 2 inches above the average. The time of ■observation was 9 a.m. for the 24 hours preceding. The diameter of the gauge is 8 inches. Height of top above ground, 1 foot '2 inches ; 390 feet above eea level. Month. Total depth Greate 24 t fall in hoU7-s. Inches. Depth. Date .Tanuary . 4 79 ■S6 28 February 4 58 ■08 3 March . . 133 ■34 8 April.. . 161 ■31 15 May .. . 4-33 1 20 21 June .. . 1-89 . 1-03 27 July .. . 1-24 ■29 30 August . 2 75 ■64 23 Septembei 2 72 ■81 15 October . 2 '97 ■82 7 November 119 ■43 11 December 3 35 •81 7 ^'umho of (la /.v ;( ■fh v-l !/■ ;; on' recurdt d. 22 24 16 12 14 9 13 16 12 12 9 19 Total .. 32 73 177 It will be observed that in 1904 rain fell on 177 days, against 179 days in 1903, though the fall was just 10 38 inches less in 1904. January was the wettest month, followed closely by February, when rain was registered on IS consecutive days. On two occasions only was more than an inch registered during 24 hours, viz., on May 21, 120 inches, and June 27 with 1 03 inches. Taking it altogether, the past year was without doubt one of the most favourable on record. — G. Ellwood, Swanmore ■Qardens, Bishop's Wall ham. LEICESTERSHIRE. Inches. Inches. January 2 OS August 3 67 February .. .. 257 Seplember .. .. 148 March 152 October ^82 April 1*12 November .. .. 1*16 May f72 December .. .. fOO June ^24 July 2^43 Total ,. .. 19 SI — Frank J. Clark, The Gardens, Wislow Hall, Leicester. KINGSWEAR, SOUTH DEVON. Inches. January 7^23 February . . . . 6^78 March 2-29 April 1-77 May 3 94 June 1^50 July 6^90 Inches. August 8 33 September . . . . 2^26 October 3'49 November .. ., 2^17 December .. ., 3*59 Total 44-30 The fall for the year is about 6 inches in excess of the average, the months of .January, February, May, and July totalling 23 96 inches, against an average for those months of 10'20 inches, or con- siderably more than double the normal fall. Almost the whole of the Jaly fall occurred during the last week of the month. The year has been, with the exception of the extraordinary rainfall of the first two months, a very favourable one, the heavy fall at the end of .January effectually pre- venting a drouglit in the late summer. October was a particularly pleasant month, with a rainfall much below the average, a high temperature, and an almost entire absence of wind. In some portions of South Devon nearly 20" of frost was registered in November, but 6" was the most experienced at Kingswear. — S. W. Fitzherbert. NOTES FROM MARKETS. THE COVENT GARDEN MARKET. Wholesale Prices. THE prices now are variable from day to day. Chrysanthemums are running short, and are inclined to advance. English Roses continue very scarce, and they are difiicult to procure except when on order. Carnations are more plentiful, but make good prices. Bouvardia is nearly over for the season. Liliums are not quite so plentiful, and prices may advance. Orchid bloom is quite equal to all demands ; some very good Cattleyas are now seen. Zonal Pelargonium Raspail is more plentiful, and rather lower in price. Lily of the Valley continues very plentiful, but prices do not vary much. D.iffodils are now a great feature ; Golden Spur is very good ; princeps and Telaraonius plenus are now very plentiful. Prices are fairly well maintained, but we may expect to see them lower soon. Tulips are dearer than they were, but are inclined to rise in price. Violets continue scarce, and prices keep high. Oallas are very plentiful. All French flowers are scarce except the ilimosa (Acacia dealbata). In pot plants Azalea indica in various colours are the most conspicuous feature. Hyacinths make a great show ; Primula obconica is very pretty ; Cyclamen are fairly plentiful; pot Chrysanthe- mums are nearly over ; Solanuras are still fairly good ; Cinerarias are very good ; Acacia Drum- mondi is very pretty ; and Ferns, Palms, and other foliage plants are plentiful. In fruit at present there is little variation in prices, but Grapes may be expected to advance considerably. Bananas are rather cheaper ; the St. Michael's Pineapples are very fine, and prices are moderate. Pears hold out well, and we are now getting Peaches and Plums from South Africa. Cucumbers are scarce, and make from 123. to ISs. per dozen. Flowers. _, ^ ,, ,; Azalea indica alba .. .. per dozen bunches 4 0 to 6 0 ,, mollis 12 0 , IS 0 Bouvardia, white . . 6 0 , s 0 ,, pinli and red ,, ,, 5 0 , 6 0 Calla ;etbiopica .. ,, blooms 3 0 I 5 U Camellias ,, 1, 2 0 , 3 0 Cattleya labiala .. ,1 8 0 , 12 0 Carnaliuiis ,, bunches 18 0 , 30 0 „ special American varieties ,, blooms 3 0 , 6 0 Cyclamen ,, bunches 6 0 , 8 0 Cypi ipedium insicne and others ,, blooms 2 >t , 3 6 Dendrobium nobile n 11 2 1' I , 3 6 DaU'udils, vellow trumpet ,, bunches 6 0 . 9 11 ,, double .. t> M 9 0 , 12 0 ,, prnicepa ,, ., S 0 , 10 0 Eucliaris amazouica ,, blooms 3 0 , 4 0 Kuphorbia jac(iUinijL'flora per bunch 2 0 I 3 0 i-'ree-sia lefracta alba per dozen bunches 3 6 , 4 6 iJardenias ,, blooms 2 0 , 3 0 llelltboius niger . . 11 n 1 li I 0 Hyaciiiths, Roman ,, bunches 4 0 I 0 0 Lilac, English forced per bunch 3 0 , 4 0 ,, French ,, 2 0 . 3 (i J.ilium aural um .. 2 « 1 3 0 ,, longlflorum ,, 4 0 1 5 (1 ,, lancilolium allium 2 n , 0 B „ ,, rubruni ,, 2 0 1 2 6 ,, tigrinum .. J, 2 0 1 1 3 (1 Lily of the Valley.. per dozen bunches 9 0 , IS (1 Marguerites, white ,, ,^ 3 0 . 4 0 „ yellow II II 2 0 , 3 6 Flowers (continued). _^ Narcissus, Paper-white . . per dozen bnnches S ,, Suleil d'Of . . ,, ,,3 ,, Gluriosa ., ,, ,,4 Odontoglossum crispum . . ,, blooms 2 PancraLiuma .... ,, ,, 3 Primulii sinensis, dbl. white „ bunches 5 Peiaigunium (show), white ,, ,, 4 ,, (zonal), dbl. sclt. ,, „ 6 .. „ salmon ,, „ 6 Poinseitias „ heads 3 Eiusea (Entilish) .. .. ,, blooms o ,, (French) ., ,. ,, ,, 1 Tuberoses . , . , ,. ,, ,,0 ,, on stems .. .. per bunch 0 Tulips per dozen bunches 6 Violets, blue .... ,, ,, 3 Parma per bunch "3 Ornamental Foliage. Asparagus plumosus . . . . per bunch 1 1. It -- long trails, each 0 „ Sprengeri per bunch 0 Adiantum cuneatum . . per dozen bunches 6 Myrtle .. . . ,. ,, ^^ 4 Mediola asparagoides (Suiilax) long trails, per bunch 2 English Fern (various) . . per dozen bunches 3 Beiberis Mahonia.. .. ,, ,, 2 Ivy leaves (bronze) .. ,, „ 1 „ long trails per bunch 1 ,, short green .. .. per dozen bunches 1 Fruit. Apples, English dessert . . . . per sieve 4 >i M culinary .. .. ,. 2 ,, American .. .. per barrel 10 ,, Wewtown Pippins .. per case 16 Bananas, Jamaica .. .. per bunch 5 ,, Canary Islands . . ,, ,, S Cob Nuts per dozen lb. 5 Cranberries per box 6 Grapes, Alicante per dozen lb. S „ Gros Colmar .. . . ,, ,,10 Lemons per case S Oranges, Valencias .... ,, 6 ,, Jalfas ,, 10 ,, Jamaicas ,. .. ,, 5 Pears.. .. .. .. .. ^^ i(i Pines, St. Michael's each 2 TRADE NOTES. 0 , 4 (1 6 , 5 0 0 1 5 0 6 I 3 0 0 , 4 U 0 . 0 0 II , « (1 0 1 9 0 0 1 , H 0 0 , , s 0 0 , 1 12 0 0 , , 1 6 « 1 , 0 8 » , , 1 0 0 , , 12 0 S I , 4 0 B 1 5 0 0 . 0 6 9 I , 1 U 9 , 1 ti 0 , 9 0 0 , « 0 0 1 , 3 0 I) - - 6 1 I 3 0 R . 2 I) 0 , 2 0 0 , I 6 0 , 8 0 0 , 5 0 0 1 24 0 0 , 18 0 U 1 10 0 0 1 14 0 0 , 6 0 u , 8 u 0 , 12 0 u , 24 0 0 , 14 u 6 , 10 0 It , 12 () 0 , 7 0 u , 12 0 0 , 5 0 Bulbs, Vegetable and Flower Seeds. The catalogue of Messrs, Ant. Roozen and Co., Overveen, Haarlem, Holland (agents for Great Britain, Messrs. Mertena and Co , 3, Cross Lar.e, St. Mary-at-Hill, E.C) is a compre- hensive one, and contains lists of hundreds of bulbs and seeds of both u:r:eful and ornamental plants. Copies may be had from Messrs. Mertens and Co. Barr's Seed Guide. From King Street, Covent Garden, Messrs. Barr and Sons write; "We would especially draw your attention to the following points in our illustrated seed guide. It is arranged alphaheLically to facilitate ready reference. On page 27 we give some useful practical hints on the raising of Hower speds generally. A fine list of no^ elties and specialities for 1111)0 will be found on pages 2S and 37, while in the Ijudy of the catalogue only the best and most useful of kitchen and flower garden seeds are described. A list of useful gardening books is given on pages 122 and 124." Seed Potatoes for Australia. A large order for seed Potatoes for the Australian Govern- ment has been obtained by Messrs. W. Davie and Co., Haddington. Among the varieties to be supplied are Northern Star, Warrior, Pearl, Diamond, and others. Publications Received. " Journal des Roses," containing a coloured plate of Rose Marcchal Vaillant (crimson hybrid perpetual), Les Roses ("Bulletin de la Soci6t(5 frans:ai3e des Rosi^ristes "), " Le Clirysantheme," "Lawns and other Grassy Grounds," liy James Carter and Co., High Holborn, "Hand List of Roses as cultivated in the Gardens at St. Fagans' Caslle and Hewell Grange," "New South Wales Year Book," " Annual Report of the Rhode Islantl Agricultural Experi- ment Station," " Bulletin de la SociettJ Nationale d'Acclima- tation de France," "Bulletin of the Department of Agri- culture," "Annual Report of the Public Gardens and Plantations of Jamaica," " Fourth Report of the Wohuru E.xperimeiital Fruit Farm," by the Duke of Bedford, K.G., and Spencer A. Pickering, F.R.S. ; and "Notes on the Commercial Timbers of New South Wales," by J. H. Maiden, K.L.S., &c. Feltham, Catalogues Received. Brijonias.— Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Middlesex. ^(•'•d Guides.— Messrs. Kent and Brydon, Darlington ; James Backliouse and Son, York ; J. Lambert and Son, Trier, Germany. Selected Seed Potatoes.— R. W. Green. Wisbech. Jioscs.—.1ol\r] Peed and Son, Mitcham Lane, Strealham.S.W. Evert/thing /or the Garden. — Peter Henderson and Co., 3G and 37, Cortlandt Street, New York. *^* 2'he Yearly Subscription to THE Garden u : Inland, 6s, Od. ; Foreign, Ss. Od Supplement to January S8, 1905. THE GARDEN. THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, GARDENERS' ROYAL BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION ANNUAL MEETING, AND OTHER REPORTS. THE Horticultural Hall in Vincent Square, Westminster, was bright with plants and flowers on Tuesday last, the occa- sion of the Royal Horticultural Society's fortnightly exhibition. Winter-flowering greenhouse plants, berried and variegated shrubs, hardy alpines, and Orchids contributed to the display. A gold medal was awarded by the Orchid committee to Mr. G. F. Moore, Chardwar, Gloucestershire, for his extensive group of Cypri- pediums, Leelias, i&c. Two first-class certificates and several awards of merit were granted to new Orchids, and the floral committee gave an award of merit to Cotoneaster pannosa and to Erica mediter- ranea hybrida. Orchid Committee. Present: Mr. J. Gurney Fowler (chairman), Messrs. James O'Brien, de B. Crawshay, W. A. Bilney, R. Brooman White, Norman C. Cookson, J. Wilson Potter, W. Boxall, W. H. Young, A. A. McBean, H. G. Morris, W. H. White, F. J. Thorne, H. Ballantine, T. W. Bond, J. Charles- worth, W. Thompson, Francis Wellesley, Walter Cobb, and F. Sander. G. F. Moore, Esq., Chardwar, Bourton-on-the Water, Gloucester (gardener, Mr. W. H. Page), made a fine display with a large miscellaneous group of Orchids. Cypripediums were most promi- nent among them ; they comprised many of the best hybrids in flower at this season. Among them were C. aureum virginale, C. leeanum virginale, C. mooreanum (a very handsomeflower), C. Thompsoni, C. Argus Moensei, C. leeanum olinkaberryanum, C. Evenor, C. 1. Purity, and C. nitens magnificum Bill's variety. Lselia anceps sanderiana and L. Williamsi were arranged tastefully throughout the group, and added much to its efi^ect. A splendid specimen of C. Sallieri aureum was shown. Phalfe- nopsis intermedia Portei, a rarity, was also noticed, and there were some good plants of Dendrobium superbieus, D. Phal^nopsis, and Coelogyne cristata. There were about 160 plants in this group. Gold medal. In the group from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heaton, Bradford, Lselio-Cattleya Charlesworthii, with orange-red sepals and petals and purple lip, was very conspicuous, and the brightest flower in the group. Cattleya Enid (Mossise X gigas) is a handsome flower, and so are Lrelio-Cattleya Gallis- toglospa (L. purpurata X C. gigas), and Brasso- Cattleya gigas digbyana, a very large flower with rose-pink sepals and petals and lip, the latter beautifully frilled. Laelio-Cattleya Lydia (L. Covvanii X C. gaskelliana alba) is rich yellow throughout ; a very striking hybrid. Various Odontoglossums and Cypripediums added further variety to this group. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Sander and Son, St. Albans, exhibited a group of choice Orchids. Among them was Cypri- pedium leeanum var. J. Gurney Fowler, that obtained a first-class certificate ; Cymbidium eburneo-Iowianum, Cypripedium Phoebe var. exqui- situm, C. nitens splendidum, C. Rolfei var. stupendum, and a new Cypripedium named C. gratrixianum. The latter is a small flower, with pale greenish yellow pouch and petals. The lower half of the dorsal sepal is green, the upper half white, and spotted with black-purple. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Cypher and Son, Cheltenham, made a bright display with some good varieties of Lselia anceps, Cypripediums, Odontoglossum Pescatorei, &o. Among the Cypripediums were some finely- flowered plants of C. Morganife, C. leeanum Cypher's variety, C. 1. giganteum, C. nitens, C. Sallieri hyeanum, C. lathamianum, and others. The Laelias were very beautiful, and other notice- able Orchids were Lycaste Skinneri alba, Odonto- glossum Cervantesii, &o. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, showed Lycaste Skinneri alba, Cypripedium Sallieri hyeanum, and C. aureum virginale. M. Vuylsteke, Loochristi, Ghent, exhibited some of his beautiful Oiiontoglossum hybrids, 0. Vuyl- stekei, heavily blotched with chocolate upon a yellow ground ; 0. wilckeanum, with brown-red blotches upon a pale yellow ground ; 0. loochristi- ense, blotched with chocolate colour upon yellow ; and O. harryo-crispura were included. Sdver Banksian medal. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chel- sea, showed some remarkable pretty hybrid Orchids. Included were Lselio-Cattleya bletchley- eusis, with rich purple lip and rose-purple sepals and petals; L.-C. wellsiana, purple lip, yellow throat and blush sepals and petals, a lovely flower ; L. Mrs. M. Gratrix, bright yellow, tinged with orange ; Calanthe Bella (C. vestita Turned X C. Veitchii) numerous Cypripediums, including C. Baron Schroder (C. osnanthum superbum X C. fairieanum), and C. Leonidas (C. villosum x C. leeanum). The rich orange-red Dendrobium subclausum was also shown. Vote of thanks. Several Cypripedium hybrids and others were shown by F. Wellesley, E-q., Westfield, Woking. Among the foimer were C. Cassandra Westfield var., C. Mr.-i. Francis Wellesley (gowerianum x sanderianum) and C. dieksonianum (villosum X Memoria Ma3nsii(?) ). Laslio - Cattleya Charles- worthii magnifica obtained an award of merit. Maxillaria Lindenis was shown by de Barri Crawshay, Esq., Sevenoaks (gardener, Mr. Staples), Cypripedium mooreanum Fowler's variety was sent by Gurney Fowler, Esq., South Woodford (gardener Mr. Davis), and C. insigne Northchurch variety by J. Forster Alcock, Esq., Northchurch (gardener, Mr. Foster.) Lord Rothschild, Tring Park, Tring (gardener, Mr. A. Dye), exhibited a very large photograph of Phaljenopsis growing in a house at Tring. Vote of thanks. New Orchids. A first-claSH certificate was awarded to Cypri- pedium leeanum var. J. Gurnej' Fowler, from Messrs. Sander and Sons ; and to Calanthe X Chapmanii, a beautiful hybrid between Calanthe burfordiensis and Oakwood Ruby, from Mr. Norman C. Cookson. An award of merit was given to each of the following : Lcelio-Cattleya Charlesworthi mag- nifica, from Mr. F. Wellesley ; Cattleya Octave Doin (Mendelii x aurea), from Messrs. Charles- worth and Co. ; Cj'pripedium aureum hyeanum and C. Laurebel (shrubbery variety), from Mr. F. M. Ogilvie, Oxford ; Odontoglossum merificum (orispum X seeptrum) and Cypripedium x San- Actfeus (Actjeus x insigne Sanders), from Mr. Norman C. Cookson ; and Cypripedium 6. F. Moore (mooreanum x Sallieri aureum), from Mr. G. F. Moore. Frdit Committee. Present : Mr. A. H. Pearson (chairman), Messrs. James H. Veitch, F. Q. Lane, George Keif, Alex. Dean, S. Mortimer, T. W. Bates, J. Cheal, H. Parr, W. Fyfe, Edwin Beckett, J. Willard, Owen Thomas, J. Jaques, G. Norman, and James Gibson. Mr. H. J. Jones, Ryecroft Nur-iieries, Lewisham, S.E., exhibited a very large collection of Potatoes in many varieties. Such famous sorts as Eldorado, Sir John Llewelyn, Northern Star, King Edward VII., Sutton's Discovery, The Crofter, and others were finely shown. The tubers were an excellent lot, and a splendid exhibition of the best varieties of the Potatoes now on the market. Among other less renowned varieties we noted Mr. Breese, Leda, Waverley (coloured kidneys). Blacksmith, The Scot, Eightyfold (coloured round), Noroton Beauty (the new American Potato), Market King, and others. Silver-gilt Knightian medal. An interesting collection of Apples not usually grown was shown by R. C. Appleton, Esq., Bar House, Beverley, Yorks, per Mr. Cecil H. Hooper. Among the varieties were Nancy Jackson, a favourite in North Yorkshire, cooking; Forester, cooking, a large conical fruit ; Newland Sack, said by Mr. Crump of Madresfield Court to be his best and largest late-keeping Apple ; .Jonathan, an American sort, cooking or dessert, with bright red cheek ; and others. Vote of thanks. Mr. W. Strugnell, Rood Ashton, Wilts, showed a collection of Apples that included some very fine fruits. Tower of Glamis, Hoary Morning, King of Tompkin's County, Bismarck, and Sandring- ham were splendid dishes. Hoary Morning was brilliantly coloured ; in fact, the colouring of all was good. Silver Banksian medal. A cultural commendation was given to Sir W. D. Pearson, Bart., M.P., Paddockhurst, Sussex (gar- aener, Mr. Wadds), for a splendid lot o£ fruits of Tomato Sutton's Winter Beauty. Floral Committee. Present : Mr. W. Marshall (chairman), Messrs. H. B. May, James Hudson, J. Green, G. P>,euthe, Charles Blick, J. Jennings, W. Howe, J. F. McLeod, C. B. Fielder, R, Wilson Ker, F.S.A., George Nicholson, H. J. .Jones, R. W. Wallace, H. J. Cutbush, Charles E. Shea, Charles E. Pear- son, W. Cuthbertson, Charles Jefferies, E. H. Jenkins, G. J. Salter, W. P. Thomson, W. J. James, Charles T. Druery, J. A. Nix, and R. Hooper Pearson. Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, staged an interesting lot of alpines and other plants on a rockery. In large groups we noticed Saxifraga burseriana major full of bud and blossoms. Very beautiful were many of the bulbous Irises, as, for example, I. Histrio, very fine in colour ; I. galatica, a whitish form with violet blades ; I. reticulata, very fine ; I. sind-pers, very beautiful ; and I. Vartani. Other good things were Sternbergia fischeriana hyemalis and Rhododendron dahuri- cura, a charming bush with rosy flowers. Lenten Roses, Hepaticas, Shortia, Cyclamen, and hardy Heaths contributed to a most interesting group. Silver Banksian medal. Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton, exhibited a group of Ferns, in which we noted Nephrolepis Pier.soni, N. grandiceps, very finely crested ; Davallia raoore- ana, D. Tyermanii, Adiantum Fergusoni, a most distinct plant ; and Hymenophyllum crinitum, with broad and very hairy fronds. Silver Banksian medal. Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, showed a long table of Chinese Primulas in sets of varieties. The plants were well grown and freely flowered, the flowers large and shapely and good in colour. Mammoth, purple ; M., yellow and white; Fern leaf blue ; Mammoth, blush ; M. red, a very rich intense colour ; M.., white, a fine companion to it; M., salmon, very good in colour, were among the more striking. The same firm staged many vases of the blue winter-flowering Coleus, C. thyrsoideus, in capital form. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, filled a table with flowering plants, in which Eupatorium vernale, Coleus thyrsoideus fine blue, Cheiranthus Kewensis, and Jacobinia coccinea were the chief occupants ; all of these are good winter-flowering plants. This firm also showed flowering examples of Hamamelis mollis and H. arborea — the latter in large bushes, the former in small ones. The supe- riority of H. mollis is well seen ; the bracts are more richly golden and much larger in size. Cotoneaster pannosa infruit, with arching branches, was very prettj'. Supplement to THE GARDEN, January SS, 1905. Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, staged shrubs in pots and baskets, such as Haraamelis arborea. very tine ; Aucuba vera, in good fruit ; silver Eaony- muses, Hedera raadeiriensis variegata, a very effective plant ; Eurya latifolia, fol. var, and Aucuba macrophylla, a rich yellow-leaved kind. Cyclamen persicum, of a very good strain, was sent by iMr. Seaward of Hanwell. There were some ten or twelve dozen splendidly grown and well-flowered plants, the dominant colours being ■white, crimson, blush, and rose. SUver - gilt Banksian medal. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, had a small exhibit of Snowdrops (Galanthus), such as Elwesii and others being noted. The Cyclamen- flnwered Daffodil and the Pyrenean Daffodil, with Christmas Roses, were also shown. A small pot of Narcissus minimus was in flower in this group. Perhaps the most striking exhibit of flowering plants was that of forced Magnolias from Messrs. Cutbush and Son, Highgate. These comprised bush and fan-trained examples of M. soulangeana, the huge cups and buds making a fine picture. M. halleana, white ; M. amabilis, white, lined red, were the chief kinds shown. The plants rising from a setting of Palms were supported by a heavy margin of Aralia in pots. Sdver-gilt Banksian medal. Flowering plants, as Carnations, Cyclamens, Eucharis, Lily of the Valley, Roses, Arums, Cinerarias, &g. , were arranged upon a large table by Messrs. Ambrose and Son, Cheshunt. Very effective was an arrangement of scarlet Pelar- gonium and Lily of the Valley, the former occupying a raised position, with the scarlet at the base. Such Carnations as Mrs. Lawson, Eloriana, and Enchantress were in abundance and well shown. Silver Banksian medal. Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, had a very large exhibit of alpines in pans, showing the winter character of these plants. Sempervivuras, Sedums, Saxifrages, and the like were in plenty. A few flowering plants only were included, as Primula megaseffifolia, Adonis amurensis, and Litho- spermum rosmarinifolium, a brilliant bit of blue. Bronze Flora medal. The Misses Hopkins, Knutsford, Cheshire, showed a magnificent basket of Christmas Roses, the narrow-leaved kind, H. niger angustifolius. The plants were admirably grown. A selection of Primroses of the blue-flowered strain, with Primula elatior cserulea nicely in flower, were also in this exhibit. Vote of thanks. Cut Conifers in great variety were shown by LadyPlowden, Aston Rowan, Oxon (gardener, Mr. Clarke). The collection included Yews, Cupreasus, Junipers, and Abies. Some pretty pans of Cyclamen were shown by Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Enfield. We noted Low's Salmon, D^ep Red, and Giant White among them, Cryptoraerias, Cedars, and other such things. Mr. W. Hayward, Floral Depot, Fife Road, Kingston-on-Thames, set up a beautiful lot of Chrysanthemum Winter Cheer in ornamental baskets and vases, together with bouquets of Lily of the Valley and Golden Spur Daffodil, Tulips, and other things. The arrangement and quality of the flowers were excellent, and reflected much credit on the exhibitor. Silver Banksian medal. An award of merit was given to Cotoneaster pannosa and to Erica mediterranea hybrida. BKI.STOL AND DISTRICT GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The fi>rtiiichtly meeting of this association was held at St. Juhn s Parish Rooms on Thursday, tlie ll^th inst. Colonel Cary Batten, the president of the assuciation, accompanied by Mf3. C.try Batten, was present, but they were unable to remain thnmuhout the meeting. Colonel Cary Batten addressed a few words to the members, and congratulated then) on the pi"giess the association was making, and hoped the steady piugi ess would be maintained. It was always a pleasure tn Mis. C^ry Batten and himself to pay the society a visit, Mrs. Ci'y Bttten then presented the prizes to the successful conipetit'iTs, the ccmi petition being for tlut'e plants in blo"m. The ftist piize went tn Mr. M'. Ruwel Davis (s^rdeiier, Mr. Curtis); second, Mr. W. A. F. Pnwell (gardener. Mi. R^iikes); and third to Mrs. Colnian (gardener, Mr. Spry). Mr. W. A. Caraway was invited to take the chair during the remainder of the evening, and called upon Mi-. Binh'-ld to read a paper on '* Decorative Plants," which was an intei-esting and practical one. He detailed the method of cultivation of Palms, Croions, and Puinsettias, composts, po'ttiiig, the most suitable te'-''^ratu;e, and generi! treatment in a clear and concise way. A discussion fnllowed his lecture, and he was accorded the thanks of the meeting. A hearty vote of thanks to Mr. Caraway, who lakes a^practical interest in the associatiun, terminated an enjoyable evening. LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION'. The annual dinner was held at the Bear's Paw Hotel, Liver- pool, on tha litli inst., Walter Webster, Esq. (Messrs. Thomas Davies and Co.), presidhigovcir a numerous assenilily. The tables were effectively embellished with beautiful plants and flowers, the work of the committee, supplemented by gifts from friends. About 130 attended, among whom were Messrs. R. W. Ker, Andrew Ker, C. A. Young, A. J. Crippin, R. G. Waterman, F. A. Hazleton, S. Rowlands, H. Middlehurst, W. Rooking, J. Gibbins, W. Mercer, T. Foster (chairman of committee), &c. The toast of the evening, "Success to the Liverpool Horticultural Associa- tion," was given by Mr. T. Foster, who slated that the society was in a better position now than twelve months ago. He also referred to the value of the work of the asso- ciation, which to some extent had induced the corporation to cater for the inhabitants by givine splendid exhibitions of the most popular Howers at their various parks through- out the city. Mr. J. Devanney ably responded, and invited the support of those present, so that the work of the association might continue and be extended. The pleasure uf the evening was enhanced by a well-rendered programme of music. CARDIFF GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The opening meeting for the New Year took place at the Sandringham Hotel on Tuesday, the 10th inst., when Mr. T. Clarke presided. A large number attended to bear a lecture upon "The Twelve Best Vegetables to Grow for Exhibition," by Mr. E. H. Battram, Parknewydd, Abercynon. General disappointment prevailed upon hearing the announcement by telegram that this gentleman was laid up with an attack of influenz'^, and the doctor would not allow him to risk the journey. The meeting unanimously decided to ask Mr. John Julian to dehver a lecture, entitled "Some Hints upon the Selection and Staging of Fruits and Vegetables for Exhi- bition," the same which he delivered before the Bassaleg Cottagers' newly-formed association on December 16 last. The request was acceded to ; muny points were shown and explained as to what oftentimes placed exhibitors either winners or losers. Mr. H. R. Farmer opened the discussion, in which many joined in afterwards. A very hearty vote of thanks was accorded the lecturer for comiug to the rescue with such a useful lecture. EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTITRAL CLUB. Nearly lOO members assembled on the 11th inst. at the Shirehall Hotel, Norwich, for the annual dinner of this club. Among those present were Messrs. Charles Daniels, John Green, T. B. Field, J. W. Church, George Davison, J. Clayton, W. Chettleburgh, and other well-known horticulturists. Following the dinner was an enj^tyable evening of toast and song. In proposing the toast of the evening, "Success to the East Anglian Horticultural Club," Mr. John Green said how pleased tliey all were to see the club still growing in usefulness. He would like to see more amateurs join, and, if possible, to have exhibition classes for them. The presi- dent (Mr. J. Puwley), vice-president (Mr. T. B. Field), and the secretary (Mr. W. L. Wallis) responded, the latter giving some of the most marked directions of the club's progress. Other toasts were "The Norfolk and Norwich Horticultural Society," "Success to the Horticultural Trade of Norfolk,' and *' The Botanical Section." BATH GARDENERS' DEBATING SOCIETY. The first smoking concert of the Bath Gardeners' Self-He^p and ]3ebating Society was held on the 9th inst. at the Foresters' Hall, Dr. Baton, one of the vice-presidents, in the chair. Among others present were Messrs. T. Parrot (chairman). There was a large attendance. Mr. C. T. Foxcroft (president) wrote ap(,)logising for his absence. During the inteival a presentation was made to the chairman of the society (Mr. Parrutt) by the chairman. Dr. Paton, having expressed his pleasure that the society was making such prog' ess, said the members had much pleasure in sh'>wing iheir appreciation of Sfr. Parrott's efforts for the society. He felt that such meetings as those for social intercourse must in the end tend to benefit every one of them. He had great pleasure in presenting Mr. Parrott with a handsome pipe, and to express the hope that he might long be spared to smoke it. Mr. Parrott, in response, thanked the gathering heartily for the present, and acknowledged the work of Mr. McLaren and Mr. Butt in the formation of the society and the gieat help of the com- mittee. Considering that it was only three months old, and the society had a membership of 118, he tliought they had done remarkaldy well, and that they might hope to double or treble the numbers by next year. Dr. Paton left at this stage, but before he itid so his health was toasted with musical hon(»urs. Mr. Parrott presided during the rest of the proceedings, which were throughout of a most enjoyable character. UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT AND PROVIDENT SOCIETY. The monthly committee meeting of this society waa held at the Caledonian Hotel, Adelpbi Terrace, recently. Mr. Cliarles H. Curtis presided. Twelve new members were elected and one nomiufitfd. Fifteen members have received sick benefit during the last month, the amount of sick pay being £30 18s. The ntual grants were made to members on the benevolent fund. A grant of £5 was also made to a member in distress, who had recently lost his wife, it being a very deserving case. This meeting brought the lluaucial year to a very successful close. THE GARDENERS' ROYAL BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION. The sixty-sixth annual general meeting of this institution was held at the Covent Garden Hotel on the IDth inst., when Mr. Harry J. Veitch presided over an attendance of about thirty. Among those present were Dr. Masters, Messrs. A. W. Sutton, Owen Thomas, James Hudson, George Slonro, E. T. Cook, S. Segar, Alderson, E. J. Monro, B. Monro, E. F. Hawes, and others. The secretary, having read the notice convening the meeting and the minutes uf the last annual general meeting, then read the following report : Annual Report. It is with much pleasure the committee present their annual statement with accounts (as audited) for the year 1904- They desire to express their gratification and thankful- ness at being able to report the continued success of the work which has for its object the permanent and also the temporary assistance of a class who, before being overtaken tiy misfortune, declining years, or other causes, do so much for the necessities and pleasures of others. At the commence- ment of the year, 207 pensioners— being three nmre than at the beginning of the previous year ; 121 men and SG widows- were each receiving for life £20 and £16 a year respectively, involving an annual liability of £3,796. During the year 17 of that number have died— 11 men and 6 widows— whilst one man has relinquished the pension in consequence of a change in his circumstances, and one widow has been removed to an asylum, owing to her mental condition, thus cieating 19 vacancies. Of this number two were filled in by the committee in accordance with Rule III., 13 being widows whose distressing circumstances rendered them eligible for the allowance of £16 a year. The number of pensioners, therefoie, at the end of the year was 190, and the committee recommend the increase to-day of that number by the election of IS from a list of 66 approved applicants, as set forth in the voting papers, making a total of "208 pensioners, the largest number of beneflciares on the funds in receipt of annuities for life at any period in the history of the institution. The committee are keenly sensible of the pressing needs of the i luny applicants appealing f^ir aid, and heartily wish they were justified iu extending tlie benefits of the institution to a much larger number. The anniversary festival dinner, held in June last, waa a very great success, a large sum being raised on behalf of the funds. This result was mainly due to to the well-deserved popularity of the treasurer (Harry J. Veitch, Esq.), who occupied the chair on the occasion, and whose convincing and able advocacy of the claims of the institution, his untiring zeal and devotion to its cause, met with so ready and gratifying a response from all pans of the United Kingdom, in consequence of which a much-needed further sum of £1,000 has been added to the Victorian Era Fund. The committee tender to Mr. Veitch their most grateful thanks for his services and liberality on this, as on all other occasions in connection with the cause. They further desire to place on record their deep sense of indebtedness to Mr. Veitch for his kindness and generosity in compiling and issuing, at his own expense, a "History of the Institution," which has already proved of much benefit in creating and sustaining interest in the work. The conmiittee have also to express their sincere thanks to those gentlemen who acted as stewards and collectors in connection with the festival, to the donors of fruit and flowers, to Mr. James Hudson fJ has been given from the latter fund to numerous applicants, whether subscribers or not, who were found to be in urgent want of temporary assistance. The -committee cannot emphasise too strongly the value and usefulness of these two funds, from the one they are enahded to help the " waiting " candidate, who, but for its aid, would receive no assistance until elected on the permanent funds, and from the other they are able to besti.-w Gratuities in cases of emergency and need. It is a matter f^ir thankfulness, as already mentioned, that the committee have heen able Lo add £1,000 to the capital of the Victorian Era Kund, thus increasing its ainnuil income and providing a larger sum for yearly distrilmtion. The Committee, with very trreat pleasure, draw attention to the munificent gift of £500 from N. N. Sherwood, Esq, (trustee). Supplement to THE GARDEN, Jamiary 2S, 1905. lor the purpose of founding a pension to be called the May Sherwood C.tinpbell Widow's Pension. The committee most gratefull>' timnk Mr. Sherwood for his benefaction and for this further proof of his continued practical sympathy in the work by specially providing for a widow's declining ye:irs. As in previous reports, the committee have again to deplorij the loss, through death, of many staunch friends and BUppuners in the p ist year. Foremost amongst them may be meiitiuned the Very Rev. the Dean of Rochester and Mr. 8. Odburn. Dean Hole had been associated with the institu- tion for many years. He presided al the anniversary festival in 1872, and had often been present at subsequent festivals, making eloquent and touching appeals on its behalf. In season and out of season he was ever ready to evince his sympathies with the work. His loss will be keenly felt, and his kind and valued services will ever be gratefully remem- bered. Mr. Osborn had been a member of the committee of management since 1SS6, and was a regular attendant at its meetings ; a practical gardener himself, and one who had for BO lone; taken an active part in the affairs of the institution, his experience and opinions were much valued by his collengues, by whom he will be greatly missed. The com- mittee are glad to be able to announce that the Duke of "Westminster has kindly consented to preside at the sixty- Beventh anniversary festival dinner, to take place on June 16 next, at the Whitehall Rooms, Hotel Metropole. They trust His Grace will receive a large measure of support on the occasion, and that the festival will prove as successful on behalf of the institution as those hitherto held. In con- clusion, the committee earnestly solicit Increased support to thnir work. At the close of to-day's election there will be thirty-five applicants left on the list who are appealing for permanent aid, some of whom are blind. To assist them an additional income is required, and, whilst not lacking ia thankfulness for the means placed at their disposal in the past, the committee again plead for renewed effort, so that with a larger income they may feel warranted in extending the benevolence of this national horticultural charity to a greater number of those who "justly lay claim to its help." Mr. Harry Veitch, in moving the adoption of the report, €aid it was the longest they had ever had. The work of the Institution increased every year, therefore the report was necessarily larger also. He thought it was the most satis- factory ever presented. They were asking the subscribers to put six more pensioners on the fund this year than last year. The correspondence had increased enormously, yet they had not had any more assistance in the secretary's office. The auditors had stated that the books were exceedingly well kept. He thought much praise was due to Mr. Ingram for his hard work. Their institution was never more popular than to-day. The committee were asking for twenty pensioners to be put on the funds instead of eighteen ; one pensioner had died, and the other had been removed to an asylum. Mr. Veitch referred in grateful terms to Mr. Sher- wood's munificent gift of £500 to form the May Sherwood Campbell Widow's Pension. The interest on this amount will be given annually to the widow who is highest on the poll of unsuccessful candidates. The Victorian Era Fund and the Good Samaritan Fund, Mr. Veitch said, continued to give great benefit to distressed gardeners. He instanced a case of the daughter, now living in France, of a once well- known gardener, wlm iiad been most grateful for the timely help received from iln;; Good Samaritan Fund. The Victorian Era Fund is also greatly appreciated ; the interest on its ficcumulated funds is divided annually among the unsuccess- Tul candidates. Mr. Veitch pointed out how urgent was the need for more funds, for no less than forty-seven of the candidates at the present election were subscribers to the institution. This was pointed to as evidence of the necessity for altering the rules a few years ago. It would Boon have become impossible— as, indeed, it now had — to put on without election all subscribers of so many years' iatanding. Nearly £3,300 a year was now paid away in pensions. The chairman referred to the valuable work done by the auxiliaries ; each was doing its utmost for the welfare of the institution. The Reading branch had collected no less than £129 10s. during the past year. He formally moved the adoption of the report and the statement of accounts. Mr. Alderson seconded the resolution, which was carried mem. con. Mr. A. W. Sutton moved " That Mr. Harry J. Veitch be ^e-elected treasurer of the institution, and that the best thanks of this meeting be accorded hira for his services." He Was sure they had never had a better treasurer, and no Ttther London institution could have a better one. Mr. Sutton pointed out that the success of the institution, as the report mentioned, was largely due to the influence and popularity of Mr. Veitch. Mr. Sutton said it was a great pleasure to them to know that the Reading branch contri- bution headed the list of the auxiliaries. They owed its origin to the treasurer, who suggested its inception and largely helped to start it. Mr. George Monro, who seconded the resolution, endorsed Mr. Sutton's words. They appreciated Mr. Veitch's work more every year. The motion was passed unanimously. Mr. Arthur Sutton then asked, since the person to whom his gift of £20 was siven last year no longer needed it, that it might be given this year to one of the unsuccessful can- didates who was blind. Dr. Masters proposed that Mr. G. J. Ingram be re-elected secretary. He also testified to the usefulness of the Good Snmaritan Fund. Mr. Seegar seconded this resolution, which was passed without dissent. The retiring members of the committee were re-elected, and Mr. George Wood ward was elected in place of Mr. Osborn (deceased), and Mr. Edward Sherwood in place of Mf. N. N. Sherwood (retired). Mr. Seegar proposed that Messrs. Manning, Swift, and Willard be re-elected auditors and thanked for their services. Carried. The arbitrators were then re-elected. Messrs E. G. Monro and B. J. Monro, on the proposition of ilr. Alderson, seconded by Mr. Seegar, were elected scruti- A*eers of the ballot. Eesult of the Poll. The following are the names of the successful candidates. The number of votes each received is given: Edwin Williams, 4,5G6 ; Ellen Benbow, 3,976 ; Louisa S. Paget, 3,624 ; John Johnston, 3,562 ; Henry J. Thornton, 3,528 ; Anna M. Smith, 3,509 ; Eliza AUward, 3,285 ; Duncan Brown, 3,056; Anne Page, 3,047: Peter Dixon, 2,984; George Heywood, 2,881 ; Charles Harris, 2,860; George Cann, 2,856; John Huddy, 2,765 ; William Odiin, 2,734 ; William Pellett, 2.580; Samuel Garland, 2,544; Thomas Wynne, 2,449; Frederick E. Lee, 2,396 ; and Benjamin Hawkins, 2,279. In addition to these Mary A. Plumraer, with 2,105 votes, was selected to benefit from Mr. Sherwood's May Sherwood Campbell Widows' Fund ; James Port, with 1,662, received the £20 given by Mr. Arthur Sutton ; John Bradberry, with 851, and George Buothroyde, with 1,097 votes, were placed on the funds by the committee. BALANCE-SHEET, 1904. To balance „ amount on deposit ,, annual subscriptions .. ..£1,653 0 C ,, donations at, and in conse- quence of, festival dinner, including collecting cards.. 2,915 13 10 ,, special donations, N. Sher- wood, Esq 500 0 0 „ legacy, the late H.Herbst, Esq. 100 0 0 ,, return of income tax ,. .. 36 7 7 „ advertisement in annual report 46 18 6 „ dividends and interest . . . , SG5 3 6 £1,027 16 4 3,265 10 0 £10,410 10 3 By pensions and gratuities.. ,, expenses of annual meetingand election .. ,, rent, cleaning, firing, lighting, ttc, including salaries of secretary and clerk .. ,, printing, including annual re^ port and polling papers ,, stationery, including cheque books ,, advertisement in Fry's Chari' ties ,, festival dinner expenses ,, postages, including annual re^ ports, polling papers, &c, ,, travelling expenses ,, carriage, telegrams, insurance, and incidental expenses ,, bank charges ,, amount invested and trans- ferred to the Victorian Era Fund , ,, amount invested (N". Sherwood Esq.'s special donation) Placed on deposit, including legacy Balance with treasurer . . . . 1,046 Balance with secretary . . . . 2 £3,703 18 8 516 n4 7 2 57 4 ; ; 0 I 10 14 10 11 0 3 3 1,000 0 0 500 0 0 1,500 0 3.365 10 £10,410 10 3 "We, the auditors of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution, have this day examined the books, together with the bankers' certificate of securities deposited with them, and found everything correct. We also wish to state that the books are exceedingly well kept. (Signed) Thomas Manning. T. Swift. January 17, 1905. J. WlLLAKD. Victorian Era Ednd, 1904, To balance, December 31, 1903 .. £140 19 1 ,, donations £67 15 0 „ dividends 125- 7 9 „ return of income tax . . . . 6 9 9 By gratuities £159 2 0 „ balance, December 31. 1904 . . 181 9 7 Good Samaritan Fund, 1904. To balance, December 31, 1903 . . " donations, 1904 £19 1 0 " dividends .. .. .. 54 6 6 " return of income tax .. ., 2 16 4 199 12 6 £3iO 11 7 £340 11 7 £340 11 7 £253 9 4 By gratuities £90 0 0 „ balance December 31, 1904 .. 239 13 2 76 3 10 £329 13 2 £329 13 2 £329 13 o Audited and found correct. January 17, 1905. (Signed) Thomas Manning. T. Swift. J. WlLLAft^ The Annual Supper, After the annual meeting the usual supper took place In khtt large dining-room of Covent Garden Hotel, and abont sixty were present, amongst those we noticed being Measw. A. W. Sutton, Leonard Sutton, W. Atkinson, E. A. White, William Sherwood, H. Hicks, Alfred Watkins, G. Monro, E. G. Monro, B Monro, C. E. Osman, E. T. Cook, S. Segar. Owen Thomas, H. W. Nutting, M. Alderson, Swift, and C. Cor. The chair was taken by Mr. Edward .Sherwood, and the occasion was a memorable one. Mr. Sherwood isthe youngest chairman who has occupied so honourable a position, and everyone present felt that the great interest that has always been shown by his father in the institution, and we may say in all gardening charities, will be continued in the same aineero way by the son. After the usual loyal toasts the chairman proposed '* Continued Success to the Institution," and in doing so paid a warm tribute to Mr. Harry Veitch, to whom the institotion owes a debt of deep gratitude. His absence that evening was felt by all in the room, especially as it was due to ill-health. Though present in the afternoon at the annual meeting, the doctor forbade his attendance at the dinner in the evening. The chairman reminded those present that sixty-six years ago their institutiun was founded in rooms not far from wiiero they were sitting, and now they had a reserve fund of £33,000, which he hoped might one day be doubled. He thought more might be accomplished in raising funds through entertainments, and referred to the efforts of the musical society connected with his own firm, a sum of £50 having resulted from the performance of the delightful musical play " In Cyderland," which was performed a few weeks ago. Mr. Sherwood read a kindly letter from his father. In it the names of many men who were present when he took the chair thirty-six years ago were meutioned. The letter was a message of goodwill to the meeting, and was much appre- ciated. In the regrettable absence of Mr. Veitch, this toast wm ably responded to by Mr. Arthur Sutton, who first of all deplored the absence of the treasurer and the reason of it, and mentioned Mr. Sherwood's gift of £500, which will be devoted to the May Sherwood Campbell Widows' Fund, the interest on this sura going to the support of the widow who has polled the largest number of votes next to those elected. The name of the fund will always keep in mind the little grand-daughter of Mr. N. Sherwood. Mr. Sutton spoke also of other matters, but these are dealt with in the report of the annual meeting. "We must not forget his allusion to the importance of the auxiliary societies ; over £100, for example, was raised at Reading last year for the institution. The toast of "The Committee, Honorary Officers, and Country Friends" was proposed by Mr. Hicks, whose interest in the institution is well known. He alluded to the devotion of the committee, a committee composed of business men; to the work of this great gardening charity, and congratu- lated the institution on the election of Mr. E. Sherwood, the chairman of the evening, to a place on that managing body. Those who responded were Mr. George Monro and Mr. W. Atkinson. The former, in a pithy speech, mentioned that he had been for over thirty years a member of the com- mittee, and alluded to the economy practised in managing the institution, the expenses not being 5 per cent, of the receipts. Mr. Monro paid a warm tribute to Mr. Veitch and the fact that last year — by no means a good one for collect- ing subscriptions— constituted a record. He referred to the splendid services of the secretary, Mr. G. J. Ingram, and the great usefulness of the Good Samaritan and Victorian Era Funds. Twenty-four fresh pensioners had been placed on the funds, which was also a record, and one was elected through the munificence of Mr. Arthur Sutton. Mr. Atkinson said that those in the provinces, and especially in the North, were not forgetful of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Insti- tution, but distance from London prevented his attendance as a member of the committee as often as those residing nearer London. The next toast was that of "The Chairman," which was proposed by Mr. Atkinson in a delightful speech. Reference was made to Mr. Edward Sherwood's father, and his devotion to the institution over many years, and he stated that all present that evening must be proud that the son was following the footsteps of so worthy a sire. The name of Sherwood was renowned in the world of horticulture, and their chairman that night was known not alone for his interest in the charities and organisations which his father loved, but as a young man of great business ability. This toast was received with applause. Mr. Sherwood on rising received a great ovation. He thanked heartily his friend Mr. Atkinson for the kind words he had spoken, and said that when he visited the provinces, and the North especially, he a-lways received the warmest welcome. The many happy days he had spent there would always remain a pleasant memory. The secretary (Mr. Ingram) was rapturously received. In a carefully-considered speech he alluded to the chairman, Mr. Harry Veitch, and to the increasing work of the society. It seems but yesterday that Mr. Ingram was appointed to the post he so honourably fills, but fourteen years have elapsed since that appointment, and it is in no small measure due to Mr. Ingram's tact and earnestness that the institution has prospered. "We have only alluded briefly to the speeches, as these are in a measure a reflection of those delivered at the annual meeting, but we can say this — that there have been few pleasanter annual suppers of the institution, and this meeting together of what is practically the committee is always an agreeable function. The music was excellent, and supplied by Miss Marion Iceton, who sang delightfully, Mr. Schartau, Mr. Miles, who played the harp and sang with his usual success, and Mc- Coyle (tenor). Supplement to THE GATiDE^, Janurir}/ 5S, 1905. NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEilUil SOCIETY. On Monday, the 16th inst., the executive committee of the above society held a meeting at Carr"s Restaurant, Strawd. when Mr. Thomaa Bevan occupied the chair. Mr. Gerald Dean, in the absence of his father, whose indisposition still prevents his attending the meetings, read the minutes and correspondence and performed the secretarial duties. It was announced that the Crystal Palace authorities had agreed to the dates of the exhibitions of the National Chrysanthemum Society as fixed at a former meeting. The draft annual report was submitted for approval, and also the balance-sheet and accounts for the past year, from which we gather that the society still maintains its foremost position among special societies, and that the exhibitions last year were highly satisfactory. The floral committee has awarded twenty first-class certificates to novelties, and will hold in 1905 the same number of meetings. The reserve fund consists of £117 IGs. 9d., and the total receipts, including the balance brought forward from last year, amount to nearly £S00. Fuller details, however, will appear when these documents are submitted to the annual general meeting. In reference to the proposed conference to be held in con- nexion with the October show the sub-committee appointed to arrange the matter presented the report, which was agreed to. The meeting will take place at 3.o0 p.m. on the first day of the show at the Crystal Palace. The papers read will be printed in the society's schedule, and the sum to be expended has been limited to the barest needs. As the result of the committee's recommendations Mr. C. H. Curtis has been appointed secretary to the conference committee, and the following are the subjects to be dealt with : *' Garden Chrysanthemums," by Mr. D. B. Crane; "History of Eirly Chrysanthemums." by Mr. Harman Payne; "Chrysanthe- mums for Town Gardens, " by Mr. E. Hawes and Mr. J. W, Moorman; "Decorative Chrysanthemums," by Mr, George Gordon ; and "Early Chrysanthemums for Market," by Mr. Eric Such. The report of the market exhibition committee was pro- mised for a subsequent meeting. The subject of a registra- tion department for novelties was finally disposed of, a proper notice for insertion in the public Press being agreed upon, and the form settled for the use of distributors of new seedlings. ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Thb annual general meeting of the members of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society was held in Dowell's Rooms, George Street, Edinburgh, on the 11th inst. Mr. W. H. Massie, one of the vice-presidents, occupied the chair. The report of the council, which was read by Mr. P, Murray Thomson, the secretary and treasurer, was one of the most satisfactory for several years, it being mentioned that there had been an accessimi of eighteen 103. 6d. members and sixty- three 53. members to set off against a loss of thirteen 2l3. members. Reference was also made to the forthcoming international show, the arrangements for which are pro- gressing favourably. A full prize list will be issued shortly, which will contain many new features. The silver cup, pre- sented by His Majesty the King, is to be offered for the best exhibit in the fruit classes. It is the intention of the council to issue papers on horticultural subjects. The accounts pre- sented were also of a favourable character, the excess of income fur the year amounting to about £-213. The report was adopted, alter some criticism by Mr. J. Anderson, regarding the form in which the accounts were stated, and which Mr. Murray Thomson said he would consult the auditor about. The office-bearers were appointed to fill vacancies, as recommended by the council. Lord Balfour of Burleigh being again appointed to the presidency, and Mr. C. W. Cowan, Dalhousie Castle, a vice-president. The vacancies in the council were then filled as nominated by the council. The chairman appealed to the members present to use every effurt to make the international show a great success. Mr. R. V. Mather, of Messrs. Laing and ilather, Kelso, raised the iiuestion of a greater share of the management of the society being allotted to members outside the Edin- burgh district, but the chairman pointed out that it was necessary to have the council composed of those who could attend its meetings, and the subject dropped. SOCIETE FP^ANCAISE D'HORTICULTURE DE L0NDRE3. The members of the above society celebrated their sixteenth anniversary on -Saturday, the 14th inst., at the Caf6 Royal, Regent Street, when M. Philippe de Vilmorin occupied the chair. There was a large and brilliant gatherinc, far sur- passing anything in the past history of the society. Many well- known representatives of English horticulture, lioth amateur and professional, were present, the National Chrysanthemum Society being strongly represented by its officers and mem- bers of committee. After the toasts of *' The President of the French Republic " and "The King," the chairman paid a tribute to the energy and devotion of Mr. George Schneider, the president of the EDciety, for the hearty manner in which he interested hini- Belf in the welfare of his young fellow countrymen. The Ihanks of the French were particular] V due to the founders of the society— ilessrs. ^Martinet, Villard, and Schneider — who, sixteen years ago, first conceived the idea of forming it. The work had been ably carried on, and with the help »'f English friends and the untiring devotion of Mr. Schneider it had now become a society of leading import- ance. Its value was recognised in France, and he was the bearer of a messaire from the mother society, viz., the National Horticultural Society of France, wishing the French gardeners in England a happy new year, and also lunc life and continued prosperity to their most useful Bocietv. He would also pay a tribute to tlie nation who accoried them its hospitality in a spirit of liberality not to be found elsewhere. Mr. George Schneider replied, thanking the chairman for his kind words, and expressing pleasure that ao many English friends interested in their society were present to welcome their chairman, who came from so illustrious a family. He begged M. de Vilmorin to take back to Paris their gratitude fur the kindly remembrance and message he had brought. Letters were read from Dr. Masters, il. Geoffray, Mr. Harry Veitch, Mr. William Robinson, and Mr. George Nicholson, all of whom, while expressing their warmest interest in the society, were prevented from various causes from being present. There were many indi- cations of practical sympathy from English friends, and he would ask them all to drink to the prosperity of English horticulture. Mr. Harman Payne responded, saying that Chrysanthemum growers had every reason to be grateful to the French raisers for the many improvements that had been made in the golden flower from the Far East, and that was one reason why so many of his colleagues of the National Chrysanthe- mum Society were present. Between the two societies there has always existed the most cordial relations. Drawing attention to the great work done by the Vilmorins during the past 100 years or more in every branch of horticulture, Mr. Payne congratulated the society on the honour it enjoyed that evening in having so distinguished a member of French horticulture in the presidential chair, and asked the company to drink to the continued prosperity of L'Horti- culture Fran^aise. The chairman replied, and M. Huguenet, the editor of La Chronique, spoke concerning the pleasure gardening, but particularly Horiculture, had given him in many distant parts of the world. " The English Horticultural Press" was proposed by M. Marius Serra, and responded to by Mr. George Gordon. M. Seve, the Belgian Consul-General, referred to his country as a classic land of horticulture, and acknowledged with grateful thanks the benefit which many of his fellow countrymen had received from the society during their temporary stay in England. On the part of the young members an interesting presenta- tion of a spirit stund was made to Mr. Schneider, who returned thanks. Music, songs, and recitations by various friends enlivened the proceedings. The gathering was in every sense of the word a most successful one. EIRKBEAN AND DISTRICT HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual meeting of this society was held in the Jubilee Hall, Carsethorn, N.B., on the 14th inst., the chair being occupied by Mr. R. Major, one of the vice-presidents. The treasurer's and secretary's reports were of a generally satis- factory character, the show having been the best ever held by the society, although the regretted death of one of the chief subscribers and of one or two others had caused a reduction in the credit balance, which now stands at £20 IGs. 6d. The following office-bearers were appointed : President, Mr. Robert Hunter; vice-presidents, Mr. James Dickson and Mr. James \Veir ; treasurer, Mr. John Gibson. iMr. S. Arnott, who has been secretary since the formation of the society six years ago, being about to leave the district, a committee was appointed to secure a successor, Mr. J. Harris, his assistant, being willing to continue in that capacity to the new secretary, but not to undertake the whole of the duties. KIRKCUDBRIGHT HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual meeting of this society was held on the evenirg of the 9th inst., Mr. R. M Conchie presiding. The accounts for the past year were submitted by Mr. J. Gibson, secretary and treasurer, and were of a gratifying character, the society being in a good financial position. Office-bearers, consisting of patronesses, patrons, president, vice-president, committee of management, and visiting committee, were elected, and Mr. John Halliday was appointed secretary and Mr. J. Gibson treasurer. The annual show was fixed for July 29. CROYDON AND DISTRICT HORTICULTUR.^L SOCIETY, ANNUAL Report. The following was read at the general meeting held recently : In presenting their fifth annual report and balance sheet, the committee desire to express their appreciation of the many services rendered by friends, who have lent their support and encouragement during the past year. As in previous years, the financial condition of the society is perfectly sound, being able to carry forward a balance for the ensuing year. Lectures and papers on horticultural subjects have been given at nineteen meetings, and in each instance the subject under discussion has proved very instructive to the members present. We are happy to say the spring exhibition on April 20 was a marked success. The exhibits were more nunierically, and a greater diversion of varieties. Many visitors attended throughout the day. We owe a deep debt of gratitude to the exhibitors for making the exhibition a success. On August 24 the annual outing took place, a visit being paid to the residence of Mr. J. Pierpnnt Morgan, Dover House, Roehampcon. The gardens were inspected, and afterwards a cricket match with the garden staff finished a pleasant and enjoyable day. Two essay competitions were promoted for the members during the past year, viz., "Pruning and Training Hardy Fruit Trees" and " Birds of our Garden," the successful essayists being Messrs. T. W. Briscoe and W. A. Cook, who gained first and second prizes respectively for the first-mentioned competition, and like awards are made to Messrs. J. Sngden and H. Peckham in the second competition. We wish it to be known by all members that the society is affiliated to the Royal Horticultural Society, and amongst the privileges derived therefrom is the use of two tickets available for any of the Royal Horticultural Society's meetings, and these are at the disposal of any of our members. The society is accomplishing useful work, and to further its aims hearty co-operation of the members is solicited to make kuowu the beneficial features to gardeners in this district. Evesham Gardeners in France.^ Some of the market gardeners in the Kvesham dis- trict j")urneyed to Paris last week for the purpose of studying the methods of French growers, and especially with reference to the methods of forcing Lettuces and other vegetables. Probably as a result of this visit the value of glass accommodation, will be more fully recognised at Evesham, and the local growers will be able to compete more favour- ably with foreign growers so far as earl}' vegetablea are concerned. As we pointed out in our leading article in The Garden for December 3 last, the Evesham fruit growers have combined with very great advantage to themselves, and it is probable that much good will result from the enterprise of those concerned with vegetable culture. A Scottish g-ardener injured.— Among those severely injured in the accident on the Midland Railway near Cud worth on January 19 was a 3'oung Scottish gardener, Mr. William Graham, who has for some time been in the emplo3'ment of Messrs. William Thomson and Sons, Limited, Clovenfords, N.B. He was on his way South to take up an appointment ho had secured as a departmental foreman at Swanley College. Mr. Graham is the son of Mr. John Graham, gardener, Edenbain Place, King Street, Broughty Ferry, and, from the information received by his parents, was suffering from concussion and shock. His early recovery is confidently hoped for. Development of new breeds of Potatoes, — At a meeting of the Glasgow and West of Scotland Agricultural Discussion Society, held on January 18, a paper was read by Mr. Archibald Findlay, Mairsland, on "The D-^velop. ment of New Breeds of Potatoes." Mr. W. Reid occupied the chair. The subject is one upon which few men are so well qualified to speak from practical knowledge as Mr. Findlay, and he treated it in a concise yet interesting manner, tracing the history of the Potato from its first introduction, and passing on to detail the methods at present in use in the production of new varieties. Details were given of such noteworthy varieties as Up-to- Date, of which Mr. Findlay told the history, and which he raised some eighteen years ago, and introduced to commerce six j^ears later. The paper was much enjoyed, and gave rise to an interesting discussion, joined in by a number of those present. Mr. Findlay received a warm vote of thanks for the paper. Lecture on Roses. — Under the auspices of the Pvattray School Board, the Horticultural Society has organised a course of lectures on horticultural subjects, the first of which was delivered on the evening of January IS before a large attendance. The Pyracantha referred to in The Gabden of last week's issue, page 3.3, was planted more than eight years ago by a previous gardener, Mr. Allen, who established this plant by careful culture. The present gardener, Mr. Brown, hag only had charge of this plant one season, so that Mr. Cornhill is hardly correct when he gives the credit of good culture to the present gardener. The correct name of the plant in question ia Cratrcgus Pvracantha Lailandii. — B. S., Bi/Jlcct. The "Hurst and Son" Musical Society. — This society held its annual concert on the ISth inst., when a large gathering of friends were present. The chair was occupied by Mr. Edward Sherwood. During the evening the orchestra gave three selections, and played with remarkable skill, especially the *' Dances from Plenry VIII." Mr. Bernard Barker acted as accompanist during the eveuiniz. A vote of thanks to the chairman and the National Anthem brought to a close one of the most successful concerts yet given by this society. The arrangements were carried out under the direction of llie hon. secretary', Mr. F. Washington, and the concert committee. The programme was excp.llent throughout. Anchusa italica Dropmore variety. The note on this plant in your issue for January H last has brought numerous enquiries, many more than I can find time to reply to. May I ask you to state in Tiik Garden that the plant in question will bo for sale through the trade in the spring of 1900. — CHAitLt.3 PAUii, Dropmore Gardens^ Buckf, - fcfoy- GARDEN -^^=^■^1 J^^S^ No. 1733.— Vol. LXVII. February \, 1905. EVESHAM GARDENERS AND WINTER SALADS. SOME time ago we drew attention to the fact that the market gardeners of the Vale of Evesham had success- fully organised and established an association for the more advantageous disposal of their produce to the public direct than by distributing it in the usual way by means of agents. There is no doubt that this is a very important move in the direction of a quicker and therefore fresher and better supply of perishable goods to the public, and a more liberal return to the grower. The Evesham growers, so famed for their market gardening, are enterprising men. We learn from a letter in The Times that a party of thirty gardeners and others interested recently paid a visit to France in order to inform themselves of the best French methods of producing winter salads, such as those imported in such immense quantities into this country every year, and especially during January, February, and March. We learn that during those months the gardeners of Paris import into England from 4,000 to 5,000 crates of early Lettuce and 500 crates of early Carrots daily. The visit was arranged with a view to an enquiry into the particular conditions under which the French industry is carried on. The letter goes on to say that the facts ascer- tained were not only interesting but most encouragin,^. An inspection of a number of market gardens just outside the fortifications on the south-east of Paris (where they extend for a total of nearly eight miles) has shown that the success of the French growers is due less to any climatic advantage than to a very practical system of cultivation under glass on what are in effect forcing-beds, to which, however, no artificial hea.t is applied. At first sight a Paris market garden presents the appearance of from li acres to 2 acres or more of land almost covered by ranges of glass frames standing about a foot above the soil, while over each is a straw mat which can be readily rolled up during the day when the temperature allows. These frames are supple- mented by hundreds of bell-shaped glasses known as "cloches." Under these the Lettuces are grown, various transplantings taking place according to growth. Frames and cloches alike stand on beds made up of rotten horse manure, with a certain proportion of fresh manure as a foundation — fresh manure being at the same time piled up alongside the frames and around the cloches to protect them from frost. Some of the gardens seem to consist almost entirely of this rotten manure. In the case of Lettuce there are three succes- sive sowings, beginning in August, the Lettuce being ready for market in six weeks, and the supplies continue until April. The varieties grown. are the Cos and Cabbage Lettuce, one of the former and three or four of the latter being planted under each cloche, with larger quantities in the frames. The early Carrots and Turnips are grown under like conditions, and there is every reason to believe that the busi- ness is a most lucrative one. The opinion formed by the visitors was that, while not every part of England would allow of the growing of early vegetables according to the French methods, yet there were no climatic conditions which would prevent the adoption of that method in the favoured district of Evesham, and especially ou the warm banks of the Longdon Hill and those facing the south. Evesham, with its warm, moist climate and encircling hills, was, in fj,ct, regarded as still better adapted to such an enterprise than the exposed environs of Paris. The only difficulty was in procuring the manure at a sufficiently low price. Assuming, however, that this difiioulty could be surmounted, the general conclusion arrived at was that early salad Lettuce for the English markets could very well be grown with equal success and economy in the Vale of Evesham. We shaU follow this practical and public- spirited experiment of the growers of Evesham with great interest. If it proves to be the success anticipated it will open out a new and profitable channel of industry to a calling which we fear has been none too remunerative of late years. If success is assured in this direction by the gardeners of Evesham then the market gardeners in the environs of London should be doubly successful, because, in the first place, they enjoy a climate equally as warm, if not warmer, than the climate of that favoured part of Worcestershire, and the rainfall is nearly as great. As regards the chief factor in the success of the Parisian gardener with winter salads, namely, the unlimited supply of manure, London gardeners are even more favourably placed than their French neighbours. One cause of the failure of modern gardeners in the production of good winter salads is, we think, in their using manure too sparingly for these very succulent crops. In this matter our forefathers were ahead of us. Speaking the other day to a London market gardener, he mentioned that many years ago, upon taking to a new market garden, he was informed that the late tenant signed an agreement never to add less than forty tons of manure to the acre each year, and asked if he was prepared to sign a similar document. His reply, we think, must have surprised the agent, as it would most people who did not know how freely manure was applied to the land round London years ago. His reply was, "Yes, you may make it a hundred and forty tons if you like and I will take the land." Ultimate success proved that the end justified the means. When used with such liberality the manure generates a mild and continuous heat, creating conditions favourable to activity of growth at that dormant season. It is on the subject of light that we think the French will be found to have an advantage. This is essential, and no doubt our share round London of this is less than that enjoyed by the Paris growers. Our winter fogs, too, are so destructive to growth of all kinds, especially to such tender plants as those under notice ; these the French are com- paratively free from. However, if by the intro- duction of better methods of culture and the more extended use of glass in the cultivation of winter salads in England greater success is attained, the gardeners of the Vale of Evesham will have rendered to market growers and to the public a most useful and far-reaching service for good. THE BEAUTY AND VALUE OF ANNUALS. Only an annual ! Again and again the- expression is used, and it makes us doubt whether the debt of gratitude we owe to this fine class of flowering plants is recog- nised as it should be. The miracle of birth and rapid growth, the glory of form and colour the mystery of fruition wrapped up in the small brown seed, these are all discounted for many a one by an undefined sense of rebellion against the short tenure of their life. To grow them we say, is hardly worth while. Perhaps, if we go to the root of the matter, the secret of our discontent is an unworthy one. It may be indolence, a grudging of trouble which must recur with each returning spring. Or it may have been failure and then a lack of perseverance in trying again to conquer a difficulty. But experienced gardeners are far from underrating the value of annuals, and spare no pains to bring them to their utmost perfection of beauty. For how much colour and fragrance should we not miss if we had only the slower growing plants to rely upon. And not colour and sweetness only, but what marvellous diversity 66 THE GARDEN. [Februaky 4, 1905. of form in flower and leaf and outline. A garden of annuals, though it is seldom met with, would be no mean thing to look at and possess. Let us endeavour to sum up some of the advantages of annuals. After a season of alternate growing weather, with biting frosts, and, worse still, icy tearing south-easterly gales, as of late, there will be many gaps to fill in garden borders. Were it not for the abundance of suitable material with which we may provide ourselves to replace such disasters at short notice, we should sometimes be in sorry plight. And then, again, spring takes care of herself, and Mother Earth safely hides the early bulbs, and hardy flowers spring up, we scarcely know whence, in April and May. But when the Tulips and Daftbdils, and the late ISTarcissi have faded, and the midsummer borders are losing the perennial glory of Roses and PiBonies and Larkspurs and Oriental Poppies, there comes a pause. If we have taken no thought, the garden begins to put on a worn, shabby look, as though it must needs rest. What would then fill the place of Sweet Peas and scented Mignonette, of the gorgeous Nasturtiums, and all the bright things, like Nemesia and Salpiglossis, Sweet Sultans and Marigolds, and a hundred more, which take up the running and keep the borders gay. Our attention is much directed nowadays to the beauty and artistic effect of colour schemes in garden arrangements. This can be done, of course, to a certain extent by permanent planting. But there is no such thing, so to speak, as permanence in Nature. Beauty is for ever waxing— but it wanes. Our colour schemes would be fleeting indeed if we could not supplement and renew them with the rich harmonies of quick-growing yearlings. For amongst the many triumphs of horticulture may be counted the fixing of strains of colour of annual plants, which enables the grower to depend with certainty upon getting the exact tone he wishes to have from a named packet of seed. For masses of colour there are several half-hardy plants, which, sown early, will flower abundantly throughout the season, e.g., Verbenas and Lobelias and Petunias. The old plan of keeping Verbenas over the winter for the sake of obtaining cuttings and bringing them on quickly in heat has been superseded almost entirely by growing them from seed, and there is perhaps nothing more effective for a certain order of colour scheme than these brilliant flowers used as annuals in the pure shades which can now be obtained. Late autumn, again, finds us trusting, in large measure, to annuals, such as the beautiful Nicotianas, the fine scarlet Alonsoa Warsce- wiczii, and Cosmos, which is no longer the despair of outdoor gardening. The gardener who makes a right use of annual flowers possesses an advantage over the gardener who ignores their value. They are most useful for giving rich and bright colour- ing in the least possible time, and often may be used to fill a gap with great success that otherwise would have remained bare and un- sightly. What can be more effective than a mass of Linum grandiflorum rubruni, its bright flowers on slender leafy stems making a sea of red and green, gently moving at every breeze? Lastly, when all is over, and a night's cruel frost has left only blackened stems, we can give our annuals decent burial, and they leave no trace behind to worry or to sadden us, for we know that packed away safely in tiny coffers they have left us as a legacy germs of life which only await the reawakening moment to bless us with beauty and gladness once more in the years to come. Why, then, should we despise or think them not worthwhile to grow? PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. Annual Flowers. A FIRST PRIZE of Four Guineas, a second prize of Tivo Guineas, a third prize of One Guinea, and a k fourth prize of Halj -a- Guinea are offered for the best answers to the following set of questions. This competition is open to all under gardeners, whether employed in private or public gardens or in nurseries. Head gardeners where not more than five men are kept may compete. This competition remains open until February 28. Answers must be addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, London, and marked " Competition." QUESTIONS. I. — Name the best twelve varieties of tall, branching Stocks that are both free in growth for garden use, and that give the greatest quantity of long- stemmed blooms for cutting. II. — Name the best six annual Asters that are also both free in growth tor garden use, and that give the greatest quantity of long-stemmed blooms for cutting. III.— Name six Sweet Peas the best for form ; that is to say, with the wings outspread and rounded, not hooded and pointed at the top, also giving their colour. IV. — Name the best annuals, hardy or half- hardy, for massing, not less than 18 inches in height. V. — Which do you consider the most beauti- ful pure blue-flowered hardy annual (Sweet Peas e.xcluded) ? VI. — Name the best six hardy annuals to grow for cut flowers (Stocks and Asters excluded). VII.— Describe the best uses for hardy and half-hardy climbing annuals. VIII.— If you had to plant a shady border with annuals, name the six kinds you would use. IX.— If you were restricted to hardy annuals belonging to one natural order, say which order you would select, and give the names of the best species and varieties of hardy annuals contained in it. NOTES OFJTHE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. February 4. — French Horticultural Society of London's meeting. February 6.— Mansfield Horticultural Society's meeting. February 7. — Sevenoaka Horticultural Society's meeting. February 8.— Sheffield Chrysanthemum Society's meeting. February 10.— Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund Annual Meeting. February 14. — Royal Horticultural Society's Annual General Meeting. Royal Hopticultupal Society.- The new Fellows elected at the general meetmg held recently included the Countess of Portarlington, Lady Vaux, Sir George Mackenzie, the Hon. Mrs. C. Ponsonby, and the Hon. Henry Portman, and the Isle of Wight Horticultural Association was also affiliated to the Royal Horticultural Society. German methods of fruit preser- ving'.— A lecture was recently given by the assistant secretary of the Royal Horticultural Society, Mr. Thomas E. Sedgwick, on the " German Methods of Fruit Preserving." The paper was illustrated by a series of the latest paring, coring, and rinsing machines and other labour-saving apparatus. After mentioning both the great care which the Germans took in every stage of their fruit preserving and the considerable literature which they had on that subject, the lecturer proceeded to describe the various methods of fruit preserving most in use in Germany. Drying or evaporation was first treated of, and a drying machine for household use, as perfected in the German fruit school at Geisenheim, was exhibited. The making of fruit pulp was next described, and the German systems of bottling and canning were fully dealt with. Some of the methods described were only intended for house- hold use, whilst others were applicable to more generally commercial undertakings. The preser- vation of fruit was mainly intended to be used as a means for carrying over the surplus of one season to another time when such fruit is not obtainable in a fresh state, and it is regrettable that such large quantities of preserved fruits are annually imported, and often (as last year) much fresh fruit is allowed to go bad upon the ground. The lecturer remarked that, although the best fruit always fetches the highest price as a fresh fruit, the smaller and even slightly damaged fruit would yield a good return if treated as jam (which, bv the way, is unknown in Germany) or by some of the other methods described. The preservation of fruit was also useful as a means for carrj'ing over the surplus of one season to another, or of making a remunerative return out of a surplus crop like that of 1904. The formation of the National Fruit Growers' Association and of the National Fruit and Cider Institute, and the appointment of a Departmental Committee of Fruit Cultivation by the Board of Agriculture, showed that the import- ance of our fruit industry was rapidly becoming more recognised, and it was to be hoped that the time was not far distant when all the fruit, whether fresh or preserved, would be home or Colonial- grown. The subject of crystallisation was not treated of, firstly, because little fruit is as jet crystallised in Germany ; and, secondly, as it was announced that Mr. C. Herman Senn had kindly undertaken to deliver a lecture before the society on December 5 on the subject of "The Crj'stalli- sation of Flowers and Fruit." The Countess Spencer class of Sweet Peas. — In the "Sweet Pea Annual," published by the National Sweet Pea Society (just received), I notice that Countess Spencer is included under the heading " Pink Shades " in the classifica- tion of varieties. Countess Spencer is said to have an annoying habit of sporting, and certainly the seed sent out, for the first time, last year produced a considerable number of distinct colours. No doubt this is what is meant by sporting ; but I fancy it would be more accurate to say that Countess Spencer has never been properly fixed, and will continue to sport for some years to come. If this is really the case, it seems unfortunate, to say the least of it, that Countess Spencer should have been recognised as a variety in the National Sweet Pea Society's colour classification before it could be depended on to come true from seed. It is well known by those who cross-fertilise Sweet Peas that a cross between two varieties will pro- duce a considerable number of separate colours (three distinct colours frequently coming in the first year from the single pod of seed), and that, as a rule, it takes several years before any variety can be said to be properly fixed. I have no desire, of course, to disparage the Countess Spencer family of Sweet Peas, as I consider that there are some excellent varieties among its members, and I have already selected from these three plants of distinct colours (all having the pretty waved standard peculiar to this class of Sweet Peas), which I hope, in course of time, to be able to fix. — Hdtui Aldersby. Febeuary 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 67 Bpighton Hopticultupal Society.— The following are the dates of the ahows for the present year : Spring, April 11 and 12; summer, August 22 and 23 ; Chrysanthemum, November 7 and 8. The secretary is Mr. J. Thorpe, 53, Ship Street, Brighton. Petunia Lord Couptenay.— In a para- graph under this heading I sent to you in Novem- ber last I made it appear this attractive rose- coloured Petunia was a novelty of 1904. I am assured by Messrs. R. Veitch and Son of Exeter that it was distributed by them in 1899. If old Donald Beaton could have lived to this day he would have been gratified to find that his Shrubland Rose, which he raised when gardener at Shrubland Park, Needham Market, many years ago, had developed into so fine a variety as Lord Courtenay. — R. D. Schizanthus wisetonensis.— This is a beautiful form of Schizanthus that should be grown in pots to have it in all its beauty, and it makes a fine decorative plant if the seeds be sown in the autumn and the plants grown on during the winter to bloom in early summer. A succession can be secured by sowing in early spring and growing on in pots. My experience of it in the open air teaches me that it is only in light sandy soil in an open, sunny spot that it can be expected to do well in the open. Well grown it makes charming bush-like specimens for conservatory decoration, as it blooms so abundantly. — R. D. The fpuit industpy of Gpeat B pi tain. — The Departmental Committee appointed by Lord Onslow to enquire into and report upon the fruit industry of Great Britain held sittings on the 17th and ISth ult. The following members were present : Mr. A. S. T. Grifl&th - Boscawen, M.P. (chairman), Colonel Long, M.P., Mr. C. W. Radcliffe-Cooke, Mr. Monro, Mr. Hodge, Mr. Vinson, Dr. Somerville, Mr. P. Spencer Pickering, M.A., F.R.S., Rev. W. Wilks, and Mr. Ernest Garnsey (secretary). Evidence was taken from the following witnesses : Colonel Sir Herbert Jekyll, K.C.M.G., Assistant Secretary of the Board of Trade ; Mr. Brooke- Hunt, Superintending Inspector of the Board of Agriculture and Fisheries ; Mr. W. Chambers ; and Sir Thomas Pink. Some g-ood Veponieas.— Of the numerous Veronicas thriving here none, I think, equals Simon Delaux, Epi Blanc, and Blue Gem (red, white, and blue) for continuous and late flowering. Large clumps of them are very effective. Unfortu- nately, they are not sufficiently hardy to with- stand the rigours of our severe winters excepting in mild districts, but they are so easily propagated by cuttings in cold pits in the autumn and make good flowering plants the following year that they are well worth growing in that way. Neither are they to be despised as pot plants for the conserva- tory.— J. R. , North Wales. L'Entente CoPdiale.— We are sure that both M. Philippe de Vilmorin and Mr. George Schneider must have been much impressed, on the occasion of the annual dinner of the French Horti- cultural Society on the 14th inst., at the large measure of support that that society received from the ofiicers and members of the National Chrysan- themum Society, who were present in large num- bers. If the entente cordiale is to be anything more substantial than a mere empty sentiment, it is only by Englishmen and Frenchmen meeting together and becoming more intimately connected with each other, in no matter what walk of life they may be occupied. Happily, horticulturists have long set the example on both sides of the Channel, and for many years past as individuals. But, collectively, little has been done except by the National Chrysanthemum Society, which has frequently supported many of the continental shows by sending a deputation whenever the opportunity has occurred. It is a notable fact that during the great International Exhibition of 1900 there was no other English society that attempted to make any display at the numerous periodical shows that were then held, or even to recognise the great undertaking by sending a deputation of its mem- bers. The same remark applies to the Jubilee show of the Royal Piedmont Horticultural Show in Turin last May, where representatives of almost every leading European horticultural society were present. Insular self satisfaction may be carried to extremes by societies as well as by individuals, and those who practice it must not feel offended if they are paid back in their own coin. There may be before long opportunities for other English horticultural societies to hold out the hand of fellowship to our friends on the other side of the Channel. It is to be hoped that these opportunities will neither be ignored nor neglected, for if we wish to have friends we must show ourselves to be friendly.— C. H. P. WINTER ACONITE. 0 HERALD floweret, Aconite, We hail thee with unfeigned delight ; Thou comest when the days grow long And birds rehearse their matin song. The Hazel trees merge in a grove, To make for thee a bower of love ; And none the less their tender care Because their arms are brown and bare. For thee e'en fi'ost shows tenderness, While snowflakes melt in fond caress, For thee rough winds, when night is nigh, Do croon a drowsy lullaby. Thrice welcome little Aconite, Thrice welcome to our wearied sight. Full well we know that winter drear Will bid farewell now thou art here. Ellen Collett. Apple Rosemapy Russet.— In flavour this Apple is strongly suggestive of the ever- popular Ribston Pippin, and is little inferior to it. It is of medium size, conical, with a full eye, dull yellow, russet, and flushed with red. The flesh is firm, yellow, and deliciously flavoured. While being a good garden tree, it also has the advantage of thriving and bearing well under orchard culture. Here we have several trees growing in a very damp orchard, and so hardy is its constitution that this Apple rarely fails to bear a good crop. But I find that under the conditions stated the branches must be kept well thinned. — A. C. Bartlett, Pencarrow Gardens, Bodmin. NOVELISTS AND FLOWERS. TOO often, alas ! the novelist treading his way through the mazy paths of romance betrays his ignorance of botany, active and passive. What- ever he may know about human passions and their concomitant tragedies and comedies, he knows nothing of the flowers he uses to strew the paths of his lovers, or to decorate his similes. They are wonderful flowers, for they bloom at all times, and in all seasons, just as he wishes. They are always perfumed, and though they are repeatedly crushed against the aching heart of the love-lorn maiden, and often worn inside the coat of her adorer, they are afterwards found blooming in the lady's boudoir unfaded and unchanged. I own that if on opening a a novel I find the lovely heroine gathering indiscriminately flowers that by no manner of means could be found in bloom at the same time, I close that work and return it to the library, for I have no use for it. Gardening is my fad, and, naturally, I resent any undue ignorance on the subject ; but since to err is human, I can forgive a few mistakes, particu- larly when I know they are unintentional, but when actual misstatements are made, and a little science the false excuse, I feel some- thing must be said on the subject. Among some of the latest novels one has come under my notice called the "Bridge of Life." It is written by a lady whose works I have read and admired. To review this work is neither my province nor my desire, and I intend to touch only on one chapter, a chapter that is called " Shirley Poppies," and I must ask the reader's patience if 1 quote a few lines. First of all, I must explain that though the authoress calls her book "a novel without a purpose," its subject treats on the vexed question of heredity. She, doubtless, does not wish to be answerable for the opinions expressed by her hero, but I think when such views are set forth it should be understood whether these erroneous statements are inten- tional, and who is responsible for them. In the chapter mentioned there is chronicled an interview between a certain Dr. Dorft, a Dr. Lamont, and a Dr. Grierson, the latter being a crank on the subject of heredity, and, as it turns out, a murderous crank to boot. The scene is laid in the gardens of the Samaria Hospital, and Grierson speaks, in answer to a question from Dorft, as to Grierson's opinion on the possible suppression of heredity tendencies by influences of up- bringing. He says: "I am as deeply convinced as I am of my own existence that the child can no more shake off the heritage of the parent than water can wash out the spots of the panther. Why has a blackbird got a yellow beak or a cockle a ribbed shell ? Because its parents had one before it, and the unalterable law runs through the kingdoms of Nature. Look at those flowers over there. Do you know the history of the Shirley Poppy ? " Dr. Dorft did not know it, no more, I fancy, did the authoress of " The Bridge of Life," for this is Dr. Grierson's answer. " Then you don't know that all the millions and billions of fantastically marked Poppies that brighten English gardens are the descendants of one single specimen ! Among a patch of common scarlet Poppies somebody found one that showed the eccentricity of a few spots — a freak of Nature is the common definition — but we doctors know that every divergence from the normal means disease. The seeds of that Poppy were carefully sowed (sic), and the next season, among a crowd of normal flowers, produced five abnormal ones. In a few years more the ' new ' Popp.y was on the market, and our gardens decorated with the descendants of that one diseased individual, for in the flower world disease is quite as likely to make for beauty as ugliness. Now imagine that sick ancestor to have been a human ancestor, and ponder upon the amount of suffering he would have brought into the world — sufifering instead of beauty." I am not going to argue out this extremely far-fetched idea, or attempt to disprove Dr. Grierson's theory, but what I do object to is the incorrect account of the development of the Shirley Poppy. The Shirley Poppies are the most perfect, dainty, and delicately beautiful flowers ever evolved from one of the simple gifts of God by the patience of man. Their petals are of a texture so filmy and light that the wooing bee can destroy their bloom. To liken them to silk or satin is to compare them with the coarse and inferior fabrics of man's manufacture. The tints are the perfection of a heavenly colour scheme — the purest white, the roseate hues of dawn, the tints of sunset clouds deepening into richer shades of crimson, and the blending of these together in the exquisitely adjusted petals, and the delicate darker fibres of the seed vessel form a combination hardly to be found in any other of our annuals. The buds that burst from their enshrouding calyx of tender har- monious green are spangled with the morning dews, and crinkled like a web of silkworm's silk. As the breeze shakes their pendant heads they lift them up unto the Lord, and in a few 68 THE GARDEN. [Febuuauy 4, 1905. moments become perfect flowers, fragile — ephemeral, if you will — but lovely as such things always are. I have stood among my Shirley Poppies and from my grateful heart I have thanked the man, the clever, patient gardener, who evolved their beauties out of the wildling of the Cornfield, and gave us, not diseased abortions from a diseased and spotted parent, but drew forth greater beauty and strength and vigour from a fair mother. Mr. Wilks of Shirley, when he walked, witb the wide opened eyes of a true lover of flowers, through a neighbouring Cornfield saw among the scarlet wild Poppies a few of a more delicate shade — they were neither diseased nor spotted— and then with the love that is so strong in the heart of all flower worshippers, took these, and with infinite patience and care in the course of years, bestowed on us a gift we prize as much as though he had brought us a blue Orchid from the depths of some primeval forest. " This is an art which does mend Nature, change it rather, the art itself is Nature." As good gardeners let us not believe that we are only propagating disease and death — for that terrible creed would break many loving hearts — rather let us believe that from God-given beauty beauty comes — and from all living things a greater strength, a greater endurance, a truer perfec- tion, that disease is but a phase, and death a transition state between life and refruition — so that our gardens, tilled by our own hands in simple faith, may be veritable paradises of increasing sweetness and health and beauty for all time. Augusta de L.-vcy-Lacy. TREES AND SHRUBS. COLOUR IN CONIFERS. k LTHOUGH the majority of the cone- /\ bearing and allied trees do not assume / % brilliant colouring in the autumn, yet / \ those which do are sufficiently numerous y ^ and attractive to warrant moreattention in this respect than they receive at pre- sent. Of the evergreen forms Cryptomeria Japonica var. elegans is the brightest ; during the autumn and winter months the exposed branches change in colour from their summer green to a bright bronzy red. In the moister parts of the country this tree rarely preserves the rigid pyramidal habit of the type, nor does it often attain a height of more than 20 feet to .30 feet, but it frequently branches near the ground into five or even more leaders, the central shoot growing somewhat taster than the others. For a couple of decades trees of this almost bushy habit are very striking, and especially so at the present season, when they have their winter colour. Sooner or later, in the west, the weight of their abundant branches and foliage becomes too much, and this Cryptomeria "sprawls" in a most ungainly fashion. Trees growing in those counties where the rainfall is comparatively slight rarely have this much-branched and dense foliaged habit, so I am inclined to the opinion that the copious rainfall and frequent heavy deposits of dew are largely responsible for this difference of habit. Retinosporas. — Many of the Retinosporas change colour in the autumn. Perhaps the most striking in this respect is R. ericoides, the foliage of which often becomes reddish purple, and at times violet. During favourable seasons the three year old branchlets of Cunninghamia sinensis before falling become vivid scarlet. These branchlets are most decorative, and the colour is heightened by artificial light. The light yellow Thuya plicata (T. gigantea) var. aurea becomes much deeper and richer in colour. Deciduous conifeks. — Turning to those which shed their foliage the Larches claim first attention. The common species (Larix europ.-ea), with "its spires of gold," is so well known and greatly admired that it needs no eulogy from me. But beautiful as it is its glory is surpassed by the Chinese Larch (Pseudolarix Ka;-mpferi). The pale green leaves are much larger than those of the European Larch, and are more persistent after they change colour. At this stage the Golden Larcli is the most beautiful of all the group Conifer;u ; the rich gold of the leaves and the light brown bark form a striking picture. For immediate eilect several trees of varying sizes should be planted in a group, choosing a sheltered, but not shady spot. The Japanese Larch (L. leptolepis) is a very good second, and in common with the preceding has pale green leaves, but smaller in size, which turn golden in autumn. This tree requires a moist situation, where it will quickly attain a good height, but in dry soil its growth is slow, and the tree does not look happy and vigorous. The Himalayan Larch (L. Oriiiithii) bears the largest cones of the genus, and its habit is quite distinct from that of any other Larch. From the main branches hang long branchlets, somewhat after the style of Larix europsa pendula, but longer, straighter, and thicker, which sway at the slightest touch or puff of wind. Grown as an isolated specimen its dark brown autumn colour has not a deal to recommend it, but when associated with the foregoing it serves as a foil to their bright colours, and, as so often happens in flower-beds, the combination of brown and yellow increases the attractiveness of both. Most of the other Larches grown in this country have such narrow leaves that, except in very favour- able seasons, they make but little colour display. Ginkgo eilof.a (the Maidenhair Tree) is always of interest. As the autumn sets in its leaves assume a soft golden colour, but, unfortunately, it is not of long duration ; a sudden frost or rough winds soon strips the tree. Unlike most conifers this and the following make very fair town trees. It is generally supposed that the near proximity of water is essential for the well-being of the deciduous Cypresses, Taxodium distiehum, but while it attains its largest size in a moist situation it also thrives in drier soil and makes a good lawn tree. Before falling the leaves take on a rich brown colour, and especially in the milder counties, hang on the trees long after most deciduous subjects have become bare. The variety pendulum is even more beautiful in the autumn than the type. This is a much neglected tree, and is eminently suitable for planting in moderate-sized gardens where larger trees would occupy too much room. Taxodium distiehum var. pendulum is much smaller in all its parts, and also slower in growth than the type. Mature specimens, which rarely exceed 30 feet to 35 feet in height, form beautiful pyramidal trees of feathery appearance. The branchlets are usually pendulous, from which the tree derives its varietal name, and they fall off in the autumn. Like the species it is a water-loving tree in its native country Florida, and is amenable to drier culture in this country. A. C. Bartlett. Pencarrow Gardens, Bodmin. GOLDEN-LEAVED EVERGREENS. How very beautiful are many of our golden-leaved Evergreens, and how nicely they fit in among green- leaved sorts, the whole forming a lovely contrast ! At this season of the year many of the golden forms are more beautiful than at any other time. Take, for example, the forms of Arbor Vine, Retinispora plumosa aurea and R. pisifera aurea, and the Douglas' golden Juniper. It is a revelation to many to look on them. The Peabody Arbor Vitiu is a golden form of the American, and it is a grand one. It needs planting where it will not be crowded ; and it takes on the best colour when in the full sun. This, in fact, applies to all Ever- greens of this class. The golden colour will not appear in its best form when the trees are shaded. Anyone may realise this by observing how much deeper the yellow colour is on the sunny side of these evergreens at this season of the year. On many a place where these evergreens are and have attained some height, they attract the attention of every lover of the beautiful. Of the two golden Retinisporas — plumosa aurea and pisifera aurea — though both are beautiful, the latter always pleases me the more. It is of freer growth, not so compact as the other, and less artificial looking ; and the golden colour is very bright. It is the more graceful of the two. RoUinson's golden Arbor Vit;e never becomes as golden tinted as the kinds above-mentioned. It is somewhat golden tinted all the season. At this time of the year, when well exposed to the sun, it becomes of a bronze yellow, different from any other Evergreen I can think of. Douglas' golden Juniper is one of the spreading or concave growing sorts, just the thing where a low-growing, spread- ing sort of golden colour is wanted. Golden Yews alwa3's impress me as being more beautiful in early summer than at any other time, just as their new growth is forming. All the others are beautiful at the same time, but add to their golden colour in late autumn. This is the time to be preparing for the propa- gating of these golden trees, and while doing it do not overlook Retinispora pisifera aurea, for it is a good thing, though not as common in cultivation as the other variety. Cuttings put in now, in boxes of sand, in the greenhouse, should be well rooted by early spring, when they may be potted off or transplanted into frames, to grow for another season. They are not strong enough to be set out in the open ground the first season. J. Meehan in Florists Exchange (New York). WHAT CAN WITH A BE DONE FRAME. THE production of the best early spring- flowering plants ought to be considered not merely a pleasure, but a necessity, in every kitchen garden. Every garden, whether .small or large, should possess several frames ; and they are especially useful to those who wish to produce their own vegetables. Let us suppose, then, that the gardener has had a frame constructed. In February, in the warmest position at his disposal, he will dig a pit, 20 centimetres deep, and of the same length and width as the frame. The pit must be fiUed with two barrowloads of manure and the same of leaves, over this must be spread the soil excavated, then cover the whole with the frame, and around it pack leaves and manure. Eight days after seeds, as desired, may be sown — early and Roman Lettuce, Cabbage Milan, a few Leeks for use in May and June, and Cauliflowers for planting out in April. A little Radish seed may also be sown as a supple- mentary crop. As soon as the seedlings appear above the soil air must be admitted every day. In April the frame may be taken away and the seed- lings exposed to the open air. The frame should then be placed over the spot in the garden pre- pared for the sowing of such annuals as Petunias, Zinnias, Amaranthuses, Balsams, Ten-week Stocks, &c. , which need shelter for their development. In May the frame can again be taken away, and placed either over the first hot-bed or over a fresh one, where some Melon seed may be sown ; two roots may remain in each frame, the others be planted on a slope or on the level. In July the Melons being uncovered the frame can be placed in the shade, where it will serve for striking cuttings from Pinks, &c., or for sowing Pansies, Myosotis, and other spring flowers. In September, if some of the Melons are backward, the frame can be replaced over them, and this will soon bring them to- maturity. In October, on the old hot-bed, some Lettuce may be planted, which will be fit for use in December, or the frames can be placed over early Carrots sown in August, and which will then be good for the whole winter. Radishes may also be sown in October, and if covered by a frame in November will be fit for use until January ; or, again, there may be a small plot of Sorrel, which, if covered up- in autumn, can be preserved throughout the winter. Endive and Chicory can also be kept under a frame until March. If Violets are planted under a frame in October they will blossom during part of the winter. If a frame is placed over a bed of Straw- berries fruit may be gathered in the beginning of February 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 69 May. If dwarf Peas are sown under a frame in January they will bear by the end of April. If Haricot Beans are sown under glass in the early days of April a gathering may be had at the end of May. Thus the frame is useful everywhere, and all the year round, and what has been said of one will apply to more. Our climate is subject to short spells of very cold weather, and in one night we may lose the work of several months, yet the protection of a sheet or frame will safeguard young plants, and advance growth by several weeks. It may be objected that the management of hot-beds demands a certain amount of knowledge and skill ; but with a little practice and observa- tion this will be easily acquired. — F. B., in Bullet in d'Arboricullure. RIVIERA NOTES. FROST ON THE RIVIERA.— The very severe frost that descended from the mountains and devastated the Riviera gardens was more sudden and unexpected than any visitation I can remember. January 1 dawned bright and pleasant, and the cool gave no growth of Veronica hulkeana make it a most desirable shrub here. Persian Cyclamens must be much hardier than they are supposed to be, for everywhere in the shade of trees or shrubs they are quite uninjured, while Primula obconica looks very unhappy, though not killed. The most curious survival of this intense frost is the well-known Orchid, Cymbidium lowianum, which, planted at the entrance to a natural grotto and somewhat sheltered, has not even lost its Hower-spikes. Another month, when the fitU effect of the frost is revealed, the scarcity of flowers will be very great. Only those grown under glass with some artificial heat can have any flowers worth mention. EucAiiYPTUs Trees are whitened and withered in many places, but the Orange trees are not much the worse. I have seen them more injured by less frost, with snow in the air or on the leaves. Until the spring brings its Roses, I doubt if any garden on this coast will be worth a visit, and it will take a very good season's growth to obliterate the disaster of January 1. Roses, Carnation.s, Anthemis, HEDGE OF SCOTCH ROSE WITH BORDER OF SAXIFRAGA C.E3PIT0SA AND HEATH {ERICA VAOAKS) IN A GARDEN IN SCOTLAND. warning of anything unusual. At midday a bitterly cold wind set in, and, in spite of the bright sun, the temperature fell rapidly. At noon the thermometer stood at 46°, at 5 p.m. at 29°, and the next morning was as low as 20°. A most intense sun increased the mischief to the frozen plants, which the two following nights completed, and the wreck of flowers on this coast is deplorable everywhere. BiGNONiA VENUSTA is the Only flowering creeper that has stood the ordeal without material damage. The air was so dry, the flowers even did not suffer when close to the wall. In a wet season I have seen its buds frozen with only 2° of frost, but its foliage is wonderfully frost-proof. Pteronia incana, a chatmingly fragrant- flowered little Cape .shrub, has also survived unhurt, and Diosmas seem but little the worse, standing out green and fresh among the blackened Salvias, Linums, Geraniums, and bedding plants generally. Veronica hdlkeana is also perfectly un- injured, as are, of course, the hybrid shrubby Veronicas, but the neat foliage and compact Geraniums, and Salvias are all flowerless or killed to the ground. Mignonette here and there has a fragrant head that has somehow escaped, and as the summer heat and drought killed many of the bulbs in the ground the outlook is not encouraging. We must be con- tent with Stocks, Iris stylosa, a few Anemones, and Narcissus till the Almond blossom and Acacia dealbata herald the welcome spring. JVice. E. H. WooDALL. THE ROSE GARDEN. THE SCOTCH ROSE AS A HEDGE PLANT. A S will be seen by the accompanying f\ illustration, this Rose makes a very / \ charming hedge, and is remarkable / — % for its dwarfness. It is of very hardy 1 V habit, and will thrive in almost all soils and situations. Here the soil is cold and the atmosphere not very suitable for Rose-growing out of doors. The blooms are usually produced in great profusion ; they vary in colour from white to deep pink. The variety under observation is a very pleasing soft blush. Previous to my taking charge of the garden here these hedges had been subjected to a rather severe annual pruning, with all growths cropped into shape, the result being very few flowers the following season. The plan I have adopted is to cut out the old growths from the base after each season's flowering, and to leave the new growths or suckers quite entire, as the flower comes on the tips of these rather than the base, then to dig along each side of the hedge ; this helps to remove all suckers, and to keep the hedge shapely. Here the Scotch Rose is planted in the kitchen garden with a border- ing of Saxifraga casspitosa ; they make a very pretty combination, both flowering about the same period. It might be used in many other ways either as bushes in the flower garden, or informal groups on the edges of .shrubberies and lawns, with very good effect. Coatbridge, N.B. P. S. Follwell. GOOD GROWTH OF ROSE REVE D'OR. This Rose is one of the best for covering large spaces of wall or trellis quickly. I met with a fine specimen the other day that had been planted four years ago against a wall 6 feet 6 inches in height. Its main stem is now 9 inches in circumference at the ground level, and it has covered the wall to a length of 54 feet. Reve d'Or is a Rose that does best if unpruned, and, until the required space is completely filled, it is found better to lay in all the growths and to avoid the use of the knife entirely. This treatment has been followed with the example inquestion with the best results. Every November, early in the month, the long slioots that have shot up above the top of the wall are bent carefully down and secured in position with tarred string, thus the whole wall is veiled to the ground with foliage that in the summer is hidden beneath a wealth of blossoms that are indeed a " dream of gold." S. W. F. THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE SNOWDROPS. (Continued from -page BJ^.) GALANTHUS CILICICUS is now a very common Snowdrop, quite distinct in its season of flowering, though closely resem- bling the common one in general appearance. Its leaves are I foot long, deeply grooved down the face, and the narrow-petalled flowers are of medium size, and appear somewhat irregularly, covering the early winter season. One may often gather them in November. It requires distinctly dry treatment, and a rockery slope is the best place for it. The stems are rather weak, and the green parts of the inflorescence are paler in colour than in other Snowdrops, so that the flower appears somewhat sickly, lacking the sharp contrast of emerald and white of G. Elwesi, and the spots on the inner segments are scanty and shaped like the letter V. There is considerable variation in this and other characters found in collected _ quantities, a feature more or less common in Snowdrops from countries eastward of the Italian Alps. Ehoes' Snowdro}) (G. Elwesi).— This name is given to several forms of a very beautiful Snowdrop from Asia Minor, and collected bulbs give a greater number of forms in each succeeding year. The leaves are strap-shaped and slightly spathulate, 1 foot long. The flowers average 1 inch in length, and are borne on long stems. It is a splendid garden plant, 70 THE GARDEN. I February 4, i905. very hardy, but requiring lighter soils than most of the Snowdrops. Of the many forms that have been separated, the following appear, on examination, to possess some distinct feature as garden plants. Vm: WhittalH has globular flowers of larger size, round stems, and very broad leaves, one enclosing the other. A very vigorous plant. Var. Cassaba has narrower leaves, long stems, and abnormally long pedicels. The flowers exceed 1 inch in length, and are "tear"- shaped, quite narrow next the ovary, but with a broad spreading limb. The lobes of the inner segments are dentate, and the two blotches of green often unite, or a thin tracing of white separates them. Var. nnfjuiculatus has a prolonged claw at the tip of each outer segment, and the spathe tips are equally prolonged. This feature is not so noticeable in the perfect flower as in the bud, and it is more remarkable in the spathe than in the flower itself. It agrees generally with G. Elwesi. Var. ochrospeibis has pale yellow colouring on the inner segments instead of green. The flowers are distinct from those of G. Elwesi in their shorter length, circular petals, which are much inflated, and the inner segments are broader than they are long. This is a fine and distinct Snowdrop, and very vigorous. Var. globosus does not diS'er in shape from Whittalli. It has the longest and more slender flowers, ochrospeilus the shortest and stoutest ; Whittalli is the giant. All the varieties of Elwes' Snowdrop are natural variations ; none of them have originated in gardens. Their flowering season extends from February to April. G. Fosteri (Baker) is one of the newer Snowdrops of sturdy growth. The leaves are very broad and dark green, and the flowers, massive, are like an inflated cone in outline. The foliage as it emerges from the soil resembles that of the common Squill, and the flowers nestle among the leaves, rarely attaining the height of G. Elwesi. March. G. gnecus is a small-flowered Snowdrop but little grown, differing from the common Snow- drop in the tubular outline and greater length of the inner segments. March. G. Ikarice. — A beautiful Snowdrop, very vigorous and free in flower. The leaves are arching, deep green, highly polished, and the flowers are very long and broad. Grown side by side with all the giant Snowdrops it proves the best of all and the largest. Whittalli often exceeds this plant in width of petal, but it has the pleasing grace of the Nikarian Snowdrop. The forms of Elwesi surpass this for grass planting on account of their erect leafage, but G. Ikarise is the best Snowdrop for borders and cultivation in pans for the alpine house. It likes a good loam and a cool site. G. latifolius (brown-leaved Snowdrop) is a familiar garden Snowdrop, following G. nivalis in close succession. The leaves are deep green, very strong, and 1 inch wide. The flowers are midway in size between those of Elwes' Snow- drop and the common Snowdrop, and they have abroad half-ring of green on both surfaces of the inner segments close to the white margins. March. G. nivalis (the common Snowdrop) requires no description. It should be grown in grass, so that the stems lengthen out somewhat. Many of our English parks and woods have become famous for their acres of Snowdrops, and over the Border at Dunrobin Castle, Sutherlandshire, and in many Midlothian seats Snowdrops are seen in the happiest condition. Snowdrops appear to increase at their fastest rate in counties where the Oak thrives best, insomuch that I instinctively look for good examples of Oak wherever I see colonies of Snowdrops as Nature planted them. The forms of the common Snowdrop are legion, and each year adds to the number, so that it is now difficult to distinguish the microscopic difi'er- ences that are supposed to separate the varieties. Geo. B. Mallett. (7h be continued.) I. histrioides, I. stenophylla (Heldreichii), and I. Vartani. Adonis aniurensis is also opening its flowers botli in the alpine house and in the open. W. 1. THE FRUIT GARDEN. THE ALPINE HOUSE IN JANUARY. Slow progress has been made by many things during the last month, but notwithstanding the severe weather others keep on throwing up and expanding their flowers, and proving their value as winter-flowering plants for a cold unheated house. A great many others are rapidly pushing up their buds ready to open on the approach of genial weather. Some of the Colchicums, C. libanoticum and C. Steveni, which were in flower in the middle of December, with Crocus hyemalis var. Foxii, are still full of bloom, and mav be said to be now at their best, one bulb of C. libanoticum carrying nine flowers, In addition to the Colchicums men- tioned above, there are now in flower C. hydro- philum from Asia Minor, a pretty little species with dark rose-coloured flowers with paler tips ; C. montanum, with globular pale lilac flowers ; C. Decaisnei from Syria, with pale flesh-coloured flowers ; and the interesting and pretty little C. crociflorum from Central Asia ; its Crocus- like flowers are white, with purple lines of varying widths on the outside of the flower segments. A closely allied, charming little plant, Merendera caucasioa, is also in full flower. This plant difl^ers from the Colchicums in having the tube of the pinky mauve flowers split up into slender divisions right to the base. The Cyclamens are now beginning to make a bright display, and there are several pans of C. ibericum full of its dark rose-coloured flowers, set off by the silvery-zoned leaves. C. Atkinsi, a plant of garden origin, is also in flower. These vary in colour from nearly white to deep rose. Another plant which has received the name of C. hyemale has flowers and leaves closely resembling those of C. ibericum. These plants form one of the most valuable items for the alpine house at this time of year, owing to their hardiness and the ease with which they are grown, and four or five corms in a 7-inoh pan will make a rich display of bloom. A valuable genus is that of the|Crocus, of which, as well as the C. hyemalis before-mentioned, there are several kinds now in bloom. These include the pretty orange yellow flowered C. ancyrensis from Asia llinor, C. chry- santhus from the same country, with yellow flowers variously feathered on the outside ; C. Imperati, with fawn and bufl'-coloured flowers ; C. biflorus, with white flowers and lilac feathering, as well as the lovely C. Sieberi from Greece, with its bright purple flowers. Many other species are ready to burst into bloom, and there will be no lack of colour shortly. Although it is not a showy plant, the Siberian Corydalis Ledebouri is worth growing on account of its earliness and distinctly interesting appear- ance. It has broad-lobed glaucous foliage, and naked stems about 3 inches long, bearing a dense head of chocolate-coloured flowers, each of which has a pale purple erect spur. The Caucasian C. angustifolia is also in bloom, with finely divided green foliage and white flowers. A useful plant is the early-flowering Grape Hyacinth, Hyacinthus azureus var. prajcox. It is one of the many forms of this species, and is only about 3 inches high, with racemes of light blue flowers. It is sometimes called Muscari priueox, but strictly belongs to the genus Hyacinthus, as it possesses the characteristic open-mouthed corolla. It is the earliest form to flower, although the type and the var. gigmteus are also showing their flower-spikes amongst the leaves. A curious plant is Scoliopus Bigelovii, a plant of the Lily family, from California. It has broad mottled leaves, and produces, about the middle of January, several brownish - striped flowers characterised by an anything but agreeable smell. Last, but not least, several of the bulbous Irises flower during the month, and include I. Uanfordife, NEW APPLES OF PEOVED MERIT 4 LLIXGTON PIPPIN.— In many respects /\ this is one of the best of recently intro- / % duced Apples. With most novelties L ^ when first submitted to public favour J^ \^ there is a certain exaggeration as regards their merits by their raisers and admirers. It was no doubt so in this case, especially when it was represented as being equal to Cjx's Orange Pippin in flavour. Time has proved this estimate to have been overdrawn. At the same time, the Apple has a distinct flavour that commends it to many. It partakes of the richness and aroma of the old Golden Reinette. But the strong points in favour of this Apple are un- doubtedly its heavy and sure cropping and its free bearing while the trees are still young. The fruit is handsome, of medium size, rather conical in form, the ground colour of the skin being a creamy yellow, with bright streaks of red on the sunny side. This Apple is now planted extensively for market purposes, its attractive appearance and heavy cropping making it a favourite sort in this respect. It is in season from October to the end of January. It has had a first-class certificate frora the Royal Horticultural Society. Christmas Pearmain. — This variety deserves to be better known. It has a robust con- stitution and is immune from canker. My experience of it proves it to be one of the heaviest cropping dessert Apples we have. Id form it is not unlike AUington Pippin, being of a conical and true Pearmain shape, but the colour is much deeper. The ground colour of the skin is covered with russety spots, and the sunny side is bright scarlet. As its name indicates, it is in season at Christmas, and for some time before and after. The flavour is good. The tree will succeed either as a standard in the orchard or as a bush in the garden. It will prove an excellent sort to grow for market. James Grieve. — This is an early Apple introduced from Scotland a few vears ago. It is in season frora September to November, and is a variety that has made great head- way in public favour ; no garden should be without a bush or two of it. The tree is a moderate grower, and is better adapted for growth as a bush than as a standard. This is the only variety so far that can, in the opinion of many, claim to be almost equal in point of flavour to Cox's Orange Pippin. For this reason it is now often called early Cox's, being ripe a month before that variety. The fruit is of medium size, having a pale yellow skin with a faint flush of red on the sunny side. It is an abundant bearer, and succeeds well as an espalier cordon. It received the award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1S97. Langlev Pippix. — This was raised at the Langley Nurseries of Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Limited, and is a cross between Cox's Orange Pippin and Mr. Gladstone, two excellent varieties, the latter being one of the best early Apples. Langley Pippin has, I think, shown more of the Gladstone influence than of Cox's Orange Pippin both in appearance and in earliness of ripening. It is in season during August and September. The flesh is white, sweet, and tender, with the juiciness and crispness of Cox's Orange Pippin. It is of medium size, and pale yellow colour, with a rosy cheek next the sun. The tree is a moderatel}' strong grower, and succeeds as a bush, cordon, or standard, is a good bearer, and a welcome addition to our early Apples. Award of merit Royal Horticultural Society. Owen Thomas. APPLE BISMARCK. Intending planters might do worse than pay attention o this excellent cooking variety. Of FEBilUTAIiY 4, 1905.] THE GAEDEN. 71 HABEKLBA RHODOPBNSIS IN ROCK GARDEN. hifth colour and goodly proportions, there is little difficulty in disposing of graded fruits in the market. We had no trouble in selling beat samples during the worst of the slump. Grown as open bushes on the Paradise, our trees have borne, if anything, rather too heavily, and thinning has been necessary. We have also had very 6nely coloured fruits from espaliers in one of the coldest districts of the Midlands. That the variety possesses other attributes than colour and size is proved by the fact that, of a number of cooking sorts tested since September, it has so far proved the best in flavour when cooked. Its season is usually noted as November, but we have had the variety in sound condition months after that date. Gloucester. J. Wright. THE CALVILLE APPLES AND THEIR VALUE. Of late years we have found the Calvilles of great value, for the reason that they have cropped when others failed, and, in addition, their good keeping qualities render them moat serviceable. They comprise over a dozen varieties, some of which I will describe. Aa the name denotes, they are of Continental origin, and in France the Calvilles in variety are much liked, some being preferred to all others. Calville Blanc, or White Summer Calville.— A medium-sized fruit for dessert or kitchen. When cooked it is very good, and, though it requires a warm situation and should only be grown under the most favourable conditions, it is worth extended culture. Mr. Bunyard describes this Calville as a delicious fruit, soft, and a valuable tree for walls or pot culture. It must not be grown in heavy clay soils. On our light ground it fruits leas freely than Boiabunel, but is more delicate in flavour. Some consider Blanc and Blanc d'Hiver the same ; but this cannot he, for the last-named is not ripe till December, and keeps good until April. I have often seen Blanc d'Hiver staged as Blanc or Blanche, and vice versa. Both have large leaves, but the last is a longer fruit and a moat valuable winter Apple ; it is good on the Paradise stock as a bush, and an excellent dessert fruit at the season named. Calville Rouge Precoce. — A very handsome Apple, and better known in this country than any, owing to its splendid colour. Years ago this waa a beautiful fruit in the old Chiswick Gardens. It was always noticeable for its handsome shape and deep crimson colour with distinct white spots. Even for its appearance it is worth growing ; the fleah is very sweet, and it is an early Apple, in season from October to December. A great bearer, and much hardier than some of the Calvilles. It ia juat.lthe size for dessert, and a good market fruitt Calville Rouge d'Hiver. — This ia quite dis- tinct, and with names so closely resembling each other it ia an easy matter to confuse one with the other. This ia a cooking fruit, though when kept well into winter it is by no means bad for dessert ; a large oblong fruit, rich red like Pr&oce, but the colour goes deep into the flesh, and it is a very free bearer. I saw this variety bearing a Sne crop on a west wall in Scotland, and the fruits keep well into the spring. It will be seen that on this account it is more valuable. By many it is called the Winter Rouge, and is well worth a place in all collections. There are other Rouges ; one is called Rouge d'Automne, but this is useless for the garden, though handsome. In France it ia a favourite for its juice. Calville Boisp.unel. — This is one of our most reliable fruits. Like several of the Calvilles, it may be classed as either a kitchen or dessert sort. It is a large fruit ; indeed, when well grown it is often staged aa an exhibition variety, and it makes a good growth in moat places, the tree being hardier than some of the type. The fruits are bronzy green, round, and sweet, and in perfection at mid-seaaon. It is at its best from October to January, though I have kept it longer, and the quality is firat-rate. Our best fruits are grown on bush trees, and these crop when others fail. Calville Malingre. — The French class this as a valuable invalid's Apple. This, like the last- named, is one of the beat of the Calvilles, a free, compact grower, doing well in most places. A cooking Apple of great excellence, and in season from Christmas to May. The fruit is of medium size, dull red, with a little yellow on the shaded side and strewn over with minute spots ; flesh white, delicate, and juicy, but agreeably acid. Calville des Femmes. — This ia less known than others, and I note it for its late keeping, its free bearing, and good cropping. A large fruit, and a distinct cooking variety, doing well as a bush, though I have only grown it as a cordon. I have seen good fruiting trees aa bushes on the Paradise stock. Grown thus it crops freely. Calville St. Sauveur. — This, like the last, I have only grown as a cordon, but it fruited very freely, and the quality was first-rate. It is a large, conical fruit, pale green in colour, flushed with crimson. A splendid cooker, and a mid-season variety. Like the last-named, itia not much grown in this country. G. Wythes. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. THE ROSETTE MULLEIN. RAMONDIA PYRENAICA is an easily grown hardy perennial rock plant. It thrives here in a sheltered posi- tion facing north, planted in a ^ cJiink in the face of steep rock- work. The soil, which is therefore well drained, is peaty. It should be planted on its side, so as to prevent water resting in the rosettes and rotting them. The flowers are a very delicate purple, almost white, with bright orange centres, and the rosette of this particular plant, which has been growing here for three years, is 10 inches across. It is one of the most beautiful of all rock plants. Habbrlea bhodopensis. Haberlea rhodopensis is a native of the Balkan mountains. It is, perhaps, not quite so attractive as Ramondia pyrenaica, which it resembles both in foliage and the colour of its flowers, and in that it flourishes under similar treatment. But it is more easily grown than the latter, has a longer flowering season, and is easily propagated by division in the autumn. They both flower in late spring, the Haberlea coming first into bloom. Woodside, Uowth. T. B. Haet. DOUBLE DAISIES FROM SEED. That we should be able to obtain excellent double- flowered Daiaiea from seed renders the raising of these plants comparatively eaay. Where stocks of the old double while, crimson, pink, and others have to be kept through the summer in hot inland districts it is often a difficult matter to preserve the plants, especially if they have been lifted from flower-beds in May and have had to be planted thickly on a shaded border. We can get from seed now several colours in good double flowers, the pure white variety being exceptionally good. Seed should be sown in shallow pans or boxes in April. It is well to lift the seedlings when strong enough to handle and dibble them out more thinly into other boxes or under hand-lights in a shady place, and when still stronger to plant them up 6 inchea apart till October. When the}' have become quite large plants, they can be put out where they are to flower. I have aeen such plants flowering freely all through mild winters. That is not a feature of named and divided plants, as these too often bloom rather late in the spring than early. Some twenty to twenty-five years ago we had quite a considerable variety of double Daisies, but many of them seem to have dis- appeared. Not only were there giant and ordinary forms, but also flat-petalled and quilled, and several variations in colour. The large or crown- flowered red is still sometimes seen, but the chief ones are the flat-petalled white and the quilled crimson, also known under the name of Rob Roy. That is a rich colour such as seedlings do not yet give, but very likely will in good time. The pretty golden blotched or variegated aucubasfolia was once largely grown, but has almost dis- appeared. It was not easy to keep growing through hot, dry summers. There was a white- flowered form at one time in existence, but it was weaker in constitution than the red-flowered variety. The old Hen and Chickens variety is not adapted for bedding. A. D. CYCLAMEN HYEMALE. CoRMS of a Cyclamen under the above name were received from Mr. W. Siehe of Mersina last April, with the information that he had found it in Asia Minor during the previous winter, and that it had been identified and described as a new species by Professor Hildebrandt of Freiburg, who has made THE ROSETTE MULLEIN (RAMONDIA PYRENAICA) in rook garden. a special study of the genus. It belongs to the Coum section of the genus, and is closely allied to the Caucasian C. ibericum, even if it is not only a form of that species. The author lays great stress on the time of flowering of the new species, saying that it differs from all others in this respect in flowering in midwinter. It is now in flower in the Alpine house at Kew, as also ia C. ibericum 72 THE GAKDEK. [February 4, 190? under the same conditions, so that the above character does not stand for much. Compared with C. iberieum, the new species has more rounded leaves, somewhat like those of C. Coum in shape, but with a faint silvery zone. The flowers are rather smaller and a bit lighter in colour, while the concave blotch at the base of the petals ia not so large as iu C. iberieum. Other slight differences may exist in the size and length of the tube, or in the shape of the corm, but C. iberieum itself is variable, and judging from the present condition of the two, I am of the opinion that one is but a geographical form of the other, with diiferences so small that it seems hardly worth while to give it specific rank. As C. iberieum is found in Northern Persia as well as in the Caucasus, it may well extend into pans of Asia Minor, and thus C. hyemale may be said to be the connecting link between it and the closely allied but rather more Western C. Coum, which is found in Greece and Asia Minor. It is eviden'ly intermediate in character, with an affinity for C. iberieum. W. Irving. Salvias, Jacobinias, Reinwardtias, Poinsettias, Coleuses, Moschosmas, Solanums, and Cestrums. Many of the Acacias lost a quantity of leaves. Begonias lost both flowers and leaves. After such visitations as this one need not wonder why nursery businesses are being transferred from the London districts to the country. Those in the country should remember the conditions under which plants are grown in Lindon. A. 0. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1267. THE EFFECT OF FOG H NEAR LONDON. ORTICULTURISTS in and around London have cause to remember the disastrous results to their plants of the fog experienced dur- ing the closing month of the year 1904. Plant bouses usually gay at Christmas presented a sorry sight. No injury results from the mist ; the mischief is chiefly due to smoke from large factories. This is why the damage is generally restricted to the neigh- bourhood of London and other large towns. How could the gardener, resident in the vicinity of London, who saw the beautiful plants of Moschosraa riparium from Swanley at the Royal Horticultural Society's show on January .3, help envying the gardener in the country, knowing that at home his plants were little more than bare stems ? At present there seems to be no practical way of counteracting it. Closing of all ventilators will not keep it out of the houses. Experience leads one to the conclusion that if it is possible to mitigate the ill effects at all, it is by keeping the temperature of the houses low and moderately dry. It is fourteen or fifteen years since so much damage was done at Kew. The outside appearance of the houses reminded one more of slate roofs than glass. This is well seen in I he illustration of the roof of the Temperate house. The central or highest part had been washed previous to the taking of the photograph. The greasy deposit is by no means easy to remove, as ordinary rain has no effect on it. The cost of removing it from the Palm house alone was about £2IJ. Inside the houses for some time after fallen flowers, but more especially leaves, could be seen in all directions, despite a daily clean up. Some plants were affected more quickly than others. In places it reminded one of over-fumigation with tobacco. Almost all the buds and flowers on ■Orchids were destroyed. Ferns appear little if any the v/orse. Many climbers, especially in the Palm ■house, were entirely denuded of leaves. The following are a few of the plants stripped of flowers, buds, and many leaves : Eupatoriums, THE MIXED BORDER IN ENGLISH GARDENS. (With a Coloured Plate of the Boeder IN Summer-time at Hampton Court.) A S this is a subject of much interest we /\ thinli a few general remarks will / \ be helpful to our readers. / % Some kind of border where there 1 jL is a mixture of hardy flowers is to be found in every garden, such as that shown in the coloured illustration. Some- times it is merely a place where all sorts of THK TEMPERATE HOUSE AT KEW. (This illustration shows the effect of the recent fogs on the glass. Note the difference between the two washed panes and the remainder of the glass.) plants find a home without regard to effect or any intentional arrangement, but more often, and especially when it is in the more orna- mental part of the garden, a good effect is desired, and some advice about its arrangement may be of use. It is not altogether an easy matter to keep a mixed border well furnished throughout the flowery months of the year, and to ^ avoid unsightly gaps, but there are ways of doing it, and even beginners should not be afraid of facing this fact, and of thinking out ways and contriving methods so as to have as few empty places as may be. There are some common- sense considerations that will be a guide to the choice of plants to use. The fir.st and most obvious is that the plant must be in itself handsome and somewhat showy. The ne.vt, and one of the most imiwrtant, is that it should remain a good while in flower. Plants that are in flower a few days only and then are done are of little use in the mixed border, unless their foliage is unusually handsome and persistent, in which case this is so valuable a quality that it may redeem the jilant. The choice of kinds being decided on, the way in which they are arranged then becomes the matter of chief importance. It seems a natural arrangement to use the creeping and short-growing plants in front and the next in stature behind them, and the tall ones at the back. This is obviously a good general rule, but if not varied with judicious exceptions the result will be very monotonous. Now and then some of the tall backward groups should break forward. Think of the way in which the lateral simrs of a mountain chain descend into the valley or plain. They all do come down to the level, but in how varied and beautiful a way ! Think of this and then think of the dull and ugly slope of a slate roof, and then think of your border and apply the lesson. Then try and get hold of some definite scheme of colouring, in order to get richness and bril- liancy with dignity. It saves much trouble and puzzling at planting time to have a regular scheme of simple progression of colour from end to end, so that if you have a yellow- flowered thing to plant you put it in the yellow place and so on. In no way can you get so much real power of colour, by which is meant strength, richness, and brilliancy, as by begin- ning very quietly at the ends of the border with cool - coloured bluish foliage and flosvers of tender colouring, white, pale blue, and palest sul- phur-yellow, and even with these palest pink ; beginning qitite jiii(no,then feeling the way to full, and from that tostrong yellows ; then by a gradual frescendo to rich orange, and from that to the forte and t'ortissiiiio of scarlets and strong blood- crimsons, and then again descending in the scale of strength to the tender colouring. In other parts of the ] garden you may have incidents of brilliant con- trast, which are especially desirable in the case of strong blue flowers ; bitt in the mixed border the way of having the rich and brilliant harmony approached by more delicate colouring can scarcely be improved upon, and so only can the vice of garish vulgarity be avoided. Plants of the same colouring are inter- grouped, so that the red group, whether early or late, is always a red grou)!, and so on throughout. There are ways of tilling gaps by training plants down to fill the spaces. For this use. Everlasting Peas, tall perennial Sun- flowers, and Rudbeckias and Dahlias are I especially accommodating. Nothing is so destructive of good efl'ect in the mixed border as the old unthinking mixed u)) way. Plants of the same kind, instead of being dotted at equal intervals, should be grouped together, each group dying away into the neighbouring group, or if there is only one plant of a kind there is no harm in its being : one alone if only it is in its right place. 1- ID O Q-. a ^ a; UJ s Q cS Qi o <^ I oa ^ Q UJ X UJ X H February 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 73 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. SOME VALUABLE FLOWERS. WINTER WHEN the outdoor garden shows few or no signs of life, and Snowdrops and Aconites are not j'et through its frost-clasped surface, one's thoughts turn naturally to flowers under glass. During the winter months many delightful dis- plays of exotic plants in flower have been made at the meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society, and visitors to the hall in Westminster have had opportunities of taking note of them. It may not be out of place, however, to draw attention to some of the most noteworthy. I have rarely seen anything moie beautiful than the group of plants of Euphorbia jic- quiniajflora, the beautiful Spurge, with rich orange red bracts, a shoot of which is shown in the accompanying illustration. The plants were exhibited by Mr. Beckett, gardener to Lord Aldenham, Elstree, Herts. Mr. Beckett wrote an article about this plant in The Garden of the 7th ult., so any one wishing to know how to grow it will find full particulars there. No plant will prove more worthy of care. The slender shoots, a mass of orange red bracts, sur- rounded on each side by rich green leaves, aiade a charming dis- play. Another valuable winter - flowering plant for culture under glass is Coleus thyrsoideus, which produces large spikes hi rich blue flowers. blossoms, makes an admirable companion to the blue-flowered Coleus just mentioned. Groups of the two together make a very bright display either in the glass house or the home. The old .Jacobinia coccinea, with rich pink blooms, and J. chrysostephana, orange yellow, are both valuable for their bright winter flowers. Then there is Reinwardtia tetragyna, which bears rich yellow flowers, something like a very large winter .Jasmine. Of course, the Begonias are a host in themselves, such as Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, and its white variety, Turnford Hall,Winter Cheer, Winter Perfection, •John Heal, and others providing brightness and beauty for the most fastidious. There are greenhouse is apt to be not on view at this season. Many of the plants in it are pretty sure to be in somewhat sorry plight. Some may show signs of damping off, others have unaccountably dropped a goodly number of their leaves. The best specimens of Cineraria, from which perhaps much was ex- pected, have had their leaves riddled through and through by tiresome green caterpillars, which hid so cleverly that it was hard to find them before irreparable mischief had been done. Trained gardeners seem to be exempt from such mishaps, but then gardeners are not much troubled by sentiment, and an offending plant — of which there are sure to be duplicates in better condition — is promptly thrown out upon the rubbish heap. It would be well if sometimes we could persuade our- selves to do the same, but we are much more likely ^ if <>hi-^H>''^^^i^^' A SPRAY OF THE SCARLET SPURGE (euphorbia JACQUINI^EFLORA) It is undoubtedly the best blue-flowered plant we have at this season of the year. I need not give cultural details here, as Mr. Mayne did so ■on page 34 of The Garden for the 21st ult. Another warm house winter-flowering plant with deep blue flowers is Erantheraum pul- chellum. The individual blossoms do not last very long, but they are produced over a con- siderable period, and thus make up collectively what they lack singly. If the old plants are ■cut down after the Howers are over the growths that are produced will, if taken off and placed in pots in sandy soil, root quickly and grow into good plants to flower the winter fol- lowing. Moschosma riparium, a plant from South -Africa of comparatively recent introduc- tion, that bears a profusion of pink-white others of merit that are more or less neglected ; but even if only those mentioned were grown the warm house in winter would be anything but cheerless. Y. Z. WORK IN AN AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE. By an amateur's greenhouse it is intended to denote such an one as is in the entire charge, or at least superintendence, of its owner. That owner may or may not be proficient in the art of growing plants, nor does it follow that he has no gardener ; but at any rate he is likely to be an enthusiast and eager to welcome the hints which may come to him through the experience of another. January is a trying month, especially to a novice. There is probably nothing much in flower, for the to try one dodge after another to restore an old favourite, until in sheer desperation it departs of its own accord. Never mind, let us take heart. K we have yet to win our spurs, we must profit by the experiences, painful as well as pleasant, of every season as it passes. Even old gardeners, especially on moving into new quarters under fresh conditions of climate and soil, find that they have to readjust both theory and practice, and, in a measure, to begin over again. The shortest day has now been left behind, and greenhouse opera tions must soon begin in good earnest. An oV gardener used to curb my impatience by sayinp "Nothing much can be done but just keep things going until after the turn of the days.' And it is true. Until then active work, such as seed sowing, repotting, and so on, had better be left alone. K. L- D' (To he continued.) 74 THE GAEDEN. [February 4, 1905. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS, E-^ VILS OF DEEP PLANTING.— There is no rulewichout an exception, and the ^ exception in this case are Rosea budded or grafted on the Manetti, which are J usually planted deep enough to cover the union and induce roots to form on the base of the Rose. The bad effect of burying the collar of a tree or plant is more speedily seen where the soil is wet and heavy than where the drainage is better and the soil lighter. Fruit Tree? too Deeply Planted.— The earth has a natural tendency to rise — the worms are account- able for some rise in the surface — and continual manuring and spade work has a more potent in- fluence in lifting up the surface. In planting fruit trees that will probably occupy the site some time keep the roots well up. Miny good gardeners make a rule to lift all fruit trees when they have been planted four years and bring the roots nearer the surface. Canker in Fruit Treeii. — Some trees are predis- posed to canker, and this tendency to canker is very common when the roots are too deep in the soil, especially if the drainage is not perfect. Because fungus is present in the wounds of cankered trees many people look upon it as the direct cause ; but from what I have seen 1 should regard it as an effect of a primary cause, which has had its origin in deep rooting unripe wood, and ruptured sap vessels caused by frost. Canker in the Mari^chal Niel i?ose.— Occasionally this beautiful Rose may have a healthy old age, but not often. Usually it falls a prey to canker early in life, and then, in spite of all one can do, it dwindles and dies. Those who grow Mari^chal Niel cannot be too careful about the health of the stock. A healthy Briar stock is best, the site should be well drained, and only a moderate quan- tity of farmyard manure used ; but bone-meal, wood ashes, and a sprinkling of lime and soot will I be beneficial. Most! and Lichen on Fruit Trees. — There are two ; causes for this. The chief cause is bad drainage, and the second is poorness of the soil, and both operate in a similar way in starving and im- poverishing the tree. Good fruit cannot be grown by a starveling system of culture. The tree must have proper nourishment, or the blossoms will be imperfect and fail to set, or the fruit will fall when the first difficulty comes. Depth of Covering for Peas. — We usually cover early Peas at this season in the warm border '2 inches deep, and increase the depth of covering slightly as the season advances. In May Marrow Peas in well-worked soil may have a covering of 4 inches. Drought is the difiSculty to guard against with late Peas in August, and, if only thinly covered, the roots do not get so good a grasp of the soil, and thrips or mildew, or both, soon ruin them. Propagating Poses in Spring from Cuttings.— Most people who have the means force a few Roses, chiefly Teas, and when the first flush of bloom is over there are plenty of young shoots getting a little bit firm at the base, which make the best possible cuttings, and may be taken off with or without a heel of old wood. I prefer a bit of old wood, but every bit will grow under suitable conditions. The cuttings may be laid in moist Cocoanut fibre without pots or soil, simply laid in the damp fibre, and where there is a brisk bottom- heat. Own-rooted Poses.— It is not every Rose that is a success on its own roots, but there are so many vigorous varieties to choose from that those who SIMPLE HINTS. want to fill their garden with plants that will not die will have no difficulty in making a selection. Unless one has the command of heat, and Roses now coming on under glass from which cuttings can be taken, it will be belter to put in the cuttings towards the end of the summer, or, say, in September, when the wood is getting ripe, as then they will strike in the open air. Vines from Eyes. — The eyes should be taken from well-ripened wood, and be about 1 inch long, with the bud or eye in the centre, the wood at the back of the bud to be cut away a little in a slanting direction. There is no better way of treating the eyes than thrusting them into square sods of turf about 4 inches in diameter, and packing them close together in boxes over the hot-water pipes with squares of glass over them, these being placed in a house where the Vines are just started to come on quickly. If placed at once in strong bottom-heat the eyes start before the wounds are callused, and die for want of support. Evils of Pad Drainage are twofold, as wet land is always cold and the growth does not ripen. And the benefits of drainage are twofold also, as the drains which carry out the water will bring back air, and aeration means warmth and increased root formation. But deep rooting, even in fairly good land, is hurtful, as the roots lose the benefit of the solar warmth. What we want is more roots near the surface, and this condition of things can only be brought about by the frequent applica- tion of rich top-dressing. Pruning Gooseberries. — If heavy crops are wanted leave in plenty of young wood nearly full length, but do not overcrowd, as flavour demands a free circulation of air. Neither can the fruit be easily gathered when hidden in a thicket of branches. Begin with the bottom of the bush and remove the branches near the ground, as no one cares for dirty fruit ; then open out the centre and go regularly over the bush to thin out weakly and badly-placed shoots, leaving a young shoot wherever there is room, and in shortening only remove unripe ends. Lavender and Rosemary. — There is a growing demand for these old-fashioned plants for grouping and to form edgings in what may be termed the revived taste for the old English gardens. Small plants of Lavender make beautiful hedges ; but the plants must be kept low by pruning, and the soil should not be rich. Lime siftings, or old plaster, or chalk mixed with the soil will harden the growth, and lengthen out the lives of the plants ; but one of the most effective ways of using Lavender and Rosemary is to group the plants on the banks along the margin of the shrubbery. Plants may be obtained from sowing seeds now, or cuttings may be planted under glass in sandy soil. Do not Buy Cheap Seeds. — Breed always tells both in plants and animals, and when supplied with the best obtainable do not waste them by thick sowing. Much money is wasted by sowing carelessly in this way. It is well to have some power of selection, for no matter how good the growing power of the seeds may be there will be weaklings among them. And we should have plants enough on the ground after discarding these. Vegetahles to be Sown now under Glass. — The successful exhibitor at the local show sows his Onions in his little greenhouse or warm frame in February. A variety of the White Spanish named Ailsa Craig is very often selected, and Magnum Bonum and other well-selected stocks may be treated in the same way. The young plants will be hardened off and planted out in April in deeply- worked land. Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, 1 Leeks, Lettuces, and Celery may be sown now in small quantities for an early start, the plants to be pricked out when large enough. "LEVIATHAN" MANUEE INFUSER. The use of liquid manure is not the most pleasant, though it is an essential, item in all gardens. The old system of placing the manure in bags previous to im- mersing it in the tub or tank has one draw- back— the bags soon rot and the manure falls out. The inven- tion shown in the illustration is made of stout galvanised iron, somewhat in the shape of a pail, having a lid with a strong hinge. A chain is attached to the centre, and this, fixed to the side of the tank or tub, enables it to be pulled up and down so that the water percolates through, thus becoming of nianurial value and still remaining clear. It may be used in an ordinary water- barrow, and is easily removed. It is the invention of an enthusiastic amateur, Mr. S. H. Levi of Weybridge, who makes practical demon- strations in his own garden, and is glad to prove its value to anyone who may happen to call on him. WATERING PLANTS IN WINTER. Much injury is sometimes done to delicate plants through their being watered with cold water during the winter. It may be laid down as a safe principle that when water is given to plants it should always be of the same temperature as that of the house in which the plants are growing. At this season of the year, when cold winds and frost prevail, cold water should never be used in a warm greenhouse ; it is always best for the water to be warmed 3"^ or 4° above the temperature of the house. The application of water is a matter of some moment ; the soil in the pots should be kept as nearly as possible at a uniform degree of moisture, that degree being a medium between wetness and drought. To secure this it is proper to examine the plants daily. Bad drainage results in injury to plants when they are overwatered. If the soil be porous and the drainage good, water passes through the pot quickly and no harm is done ; but a, soddened soil should always be avoided. There should be no extremes of wetness and dryness, but it is probable more plants fail from the first cause than from the last. A careful gardener waters in the morning, so that if there be any spilling on the flags this may dry before night. It is an axiom in plant culture that plants which are in flower require more water than those which are not, but it would not be difficult to find exceptions to this rule. Hardy plants in cold houses need to be watered with discrimination during frosty weather. If frozen they should be left until a thaw comes. Plants which are dry at the roots withstand frost better than those which are in a. moist soil, and, as at this season of the year they are in a stage of inactivity, they do not suffer to any extent from being dry. But as soon as a thaw is followed by mild weather, then such as need water should have it freely, supplying it as early in the day as possible, so that shelves and floor may become dry before nightfall. R. D. February 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 75 MELONS AND HOW GROW THEM. TO A LTHOUGH we are still in the depths /% of winter it is necessary to look / % forward and prepare for summer. / — * The gardener's work must be L 1l carried on largely independent of the seasons ; thus, although the Melon is a summer fruit, reminiscent of sunny days, steps must be taken soon to ensure a crop at the time it is most appreciated. Melons out of season lose half their value, yet what can be more refreshing, if partaken of at the proper time, than a luscious Melon % Why is it that so many amateurs never attempt Melon culture ? It is, I think, because they think it is difficult and very expensive. A little experience would soon disprove these fallacies. Of course, there is considerable expense attached to the culture of forced Melons, but later ones can be grown at little expense. There are several points of importance that deserve prominence, for to their neglect the failure of a house or pit of Melons can often be traced. They require bottom-heat, which is conveniently obtained by making up a hot-bed of manure : a shallow firm bed of soil in which to root, plenty of air whenever the outside conditions admit of its being given, so as to ensure hard growths and healthy plants ; an abundance of water when the border is full of roots, and careful watering near the plants so that the stems are kept dry. Canker, a disease that attacks the stem at the ground level, is the Melon grower's greatest enemy, and this is especially liable to occur if the stems are kept damp. If you go through Melon houses under the charge of an expe- rienced grower you can hardly fail to notice that the soil for a distance of 2 inches or so around the plant stems is kept dry, simply as a safeguard against canker. I have found nothing better than a bed of soil of whole turves. Upon the manure a layer of turves, grass side downwards, is placed ; a width of three turves is sufficient. Upon the first layer we place another layer consisting of the outside rows of turves only; the centre thus left vacant is filled with soil in which to put the seedling plants. Their fine rootlets make quicker progress in the loose soil than in the turves. The seeds may either be sown in small pots, planting out the seed- lings when they are a few inches high, or the seeds may be sown directly in the bed. I think the former method is preferable, for then the hot-bed need not be made up so eai'ly, and consequently will not lose its heat so soon. If the house is kept warm and moist the tiny plants will progress rapidly and will quickly reach the trellis. The Melon is a rapid grower, and lateral shoots will soon form, bearing flowers. Four fruits should be secured from each plant, so an endeavour must be made to pollinate four or five flowers at the same or nearly the same time. If one or two are fertilised before the others the embryo fruits quickly develop, and the_ later ones are invariably left behind and rarely make good fruits. It is important to have the trellis covered with large, healthy leaves ; therefore a vigorous growth is essential. Careful ventilation and watering help toward this end. After sufficient fruits are set the laterals must be stopped so as not to make a thicket of growth. If the leaves are too numerous they retain moisture, which, falling on the fruits, is apt to cause them to decay or on the stems to make them liable to canker, besides light cannot penetrate properly. The minimum temperature of the Melon house should be 60° Fahr., rising to 85° or 90° with sun-heat. When the fruits have fully developed and are commencing to ripen a drier atmo- sphere and rather more air are necessary to bring out the flavour. Just a few words about frame culture, which is not practised nearly so much as it might be. Supposing you have only a one-light frame, a hot-bed should be made up that will extend about 2 feet on each side the frame when this is placed upon it. When the bed is finished, make up a bed of soil upon it as detailed already. Supposing the seedlings to have been raised in small pots, plant them out in the soil, making the latter firm about them. It is not safe to commence Melon culture in frames before the end of March, so this must be borne in mind when reading the directions given for their culture. When the young plants are about 6 inches high they must be stopped, so that each plant will have two stems instead of one. There is room for two plants — that is, four stems — under each light ; they should be disposed something in the way of a cross. When the growths are about 2 feet long or rather more they must be stopped again ; laterals will then develop, and the flowers will be produced upon them. An endeavour should be made to secure four fruits on each plant, two on each stem. The directions already given as to stopping the laterals to prevent overcrowding must be fol- lowed. Before the fruits are very large it is a good plan to top-dress with some good soil, taking care to make it firm. As the fruits develop they must be raised from the border and placed upon inverted flower-pots, so as to expose them to the light. It is most important to clo.se the frame early in the afternoon, so that it may be kept warm throughout the night. Give water carefully, so that it does not come in contact with the plant stems. A. H. P. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. THE occurrence of wintry weather has again put a stop to planting — at least, it has done so here — so that renewed efforts must be made to press forward this work on every favourable oppor- tunity, for deciduous trees and shrubs, especially early flowering ones, will soon be on the move. Late planting, however carefully done, checks many trees, besides entailing considerable more labour in the way of watering and mulching, for these details must be carried out thoroughly at this season if success is to be attained. The present is a favourable time to put The Wild Gakden in order, for probably rank grasses and weeds have grown, and partly smothered some herbaceous clumps or conspicuous specimens. Carefully fork out all weeds, giving the plants a liberal dressing of some approved fertiliser or farmyard manure, afterwards strewing rough grass over the dug soil, as bare brown rings are very objectionable on a green sward. Grub out Docks, Nettles, and all coarse weeds at once, for if left until later, and there are bulbs in the ground, these will be considerably damaged. Endeavour to keep the wild garden clean and natural, and the plants in luxuriant growth, but avoid stiffness and artificiality. Plant out Lilies that were wintered in pots. These are ideal plants for putting in among American shrubs, particularly Azaleas. The shade is beneficial to the young growths of the Lilies, and there is no fear of the latter being quickly overgrown by them. Lilies fill up the dull blank between the blooming and the autumnal leaf tints of the Azaleas as well, it not better, than any class of hardy plant I know; they are noblo in appearance and delightfully A HOUSE OF MELOSS IN MR. MORTIMER'S KUESERY AT FARKHAM, SUBIEY. THE GARDEN. [Februahy 4, 190^ fragrant. With a little care L. longiflorum bulbs are easily retarded, and planted out now will result in a later blooming season — quite late summer. Plant liberallj- in irregular clumps of hundreds, if means and space permit, but sutficiently thin to admit of planting among them late flowering plants, such as early Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Salvias, &c., to prolong the display until destroyed by frost. Galtonia casdicans is another grand thing to treat in the same way. Avoid above all things dotting single bulbs in a straight line and at regular intervals. Cultivate thoroughly and prepare a border in reserve ground for Sowing Annuals when favourable weather arrives. These will augment the supply of cut flowers for decorations, and save hard cutting from more prominent borders. There are so many annuals useful for the purpose, and such variety, that it is useless to enumerate them. Tan-y-hwlcli, North Wales. J. Roberts. FKUIT GARDEN. Peaches and Nectarines OnTDOORS. — These will now require attention with regard to training. Do not lay in more wood than is really necessary to carry the desired crop. This is a point which one cannot lay too much stress on. Overcrowding of wood invariably follows by overcropping, two evils quite adverse to obtaining high-class fruits. Moreover, it is quite impossible for the young growths (the welfare of which next j^ear's crop depends) to get the proper amount of light and air so necessary to them being well ripened by the end of the season, so that in training sufficient space should be allowed for laying in the new growth without impairing the current season's crop. In the ease of 3'oung trees which have made over- strong wood, the shoots may be cut back a third of their length. This will encourage them to break freely from the centre of the tree and ensure a good foundation. If root pruning has not already been done it is not too late to do so now, provided it is done with care. It is impossible to obtain nicely-balanced trees if rank fleshy roots are allowed to grow at will. If the trees have been subject to the attacks of aphis, they should be washed with an insecticide before being trained. Mulching. — It is hardly possible to over esti- mate the value of mulching fruit trees, especially if they have attained to a good fruit bearing con- dition and the roots are near the surface. Pears on the Quince stock in particular should receive the benefit of a good mulching of rotten manure. At this time of year the wells in the farmyard are usually full to overflowing with rich liquid manure. An eflbrt should be made to get this to the roots of old-established trees, which would greatly benefit thereby. Figs. — The earliest pot trees which are swelling their fruit will require more liberal treatment as the days lengthen and the sun gains in power. Liquid manure may be given at every alternate watering, and an occasional sprinkling of " La fruitees" on the surface of the pots will be of benefit. Hard firing must be avoided at night. Rather increase it by day, and take full advantage of sunshine by shutting the house up early in the afternoon. Make free use of the syringe, and fre- quently damp down paths and all available space. Figs are very subject to red spider, which must be checked at once or it will quickly disfigure both foliage and fruit. Sponge the leaves with a weak solution of soft soap as soon as it is discovered. Stop all strong shoots at the third or fourth leaf, and remove any weak or useless spray. Cherries. — Before the trees come into flower the house should be fumigated. This will go far towards keeping them free from aphis through the greater part of the season. The Cherry is very impatient to forcing, and care will be necessary in guarding against a sudden rise in the temperature when the trees are in flower. At this stage keep the house moderately dry, and create a constant circulation of air ; but cold draughts must be avoided. Tap the trees at midday to disperse the pollen. Trees in pots will need careful watering till the fruits are swelling. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. KITCHEN GARDEN. Onions. — As Onions are natives of warmer climates than ours, and are lovers of a light rich soil, nothing is gained by sowing the main crop too earl}'. At this season the soil is still cold, and rarely very dry. Under these conditions much of the seed will be likely to come to nothing, while the young plants will in all probabilitj' sutler from the attacks of Onion fly, the worst pest that Onion cultivators have to contend with. If, however. Onions are wanted early or for exhibition some seed may now be sown in boxes. This can be done in two different ways. If for ordinary kitchen use pre- pare a box as follows : Put a layer of crocks in the bottom with good soil, fill to within 1 inch of the top, sow the seed evenly and not too thickly all over the surface, cover lightly, water through a fine rose, and place the box in a house with a temperature ranging between 50" and 00°. When show bulbs are wanted it is a good plan to drain a box, and put an inch deep of well-decomposed cow manure over the drainage. Then prepare pieces of good turf 2 inches square, removing all grassy material, pack the turves firmly, upside down, on the top of the manure, taking care to keep them level, and about half-an-inch from the top of the box. Make a small hole in the centre of each turf, and in the holes sow two Onion seeds. Cover with a little fine soil, and at the same time make sure that all spaces between the turves are filled up. This box may now be treated as recom- mended for the first. When the young plants are of a size to judge discard weaklings, retaining the strongest only in each turf. The advantages of plants raised on turves will be obvious when the time for transplanting arrives. If carefully handled they can be transferred to the Onion plot without the slightest check to their growth, whereas those raised in the ordinary way are liable to be adversely affected by the change to permanent quarters. For show purposes Ailsa Craig and Sutton's Magnum Bonum slill hold a high place. For the main crop Trebon's, Cranston's hlxcelsior, James Keeping, and Pveading Onion are reliable varieties. Leeks for show or early use may now be sown in small turves, as recommended for show Onions, and treated similarly ; for a good all round variety I have found none to beat the Syon Leek. Cauliflowers and Brussels Sprouts. — Where a mild hot-bed is not obtainable, sow seed of each in boxes as advised for culinary Onions. Early London Cauliflower and Sutton's Exhibition Brussels Sprouts are good varieties. Spinach. — This favourite and wholesome succu- lent vegetable may be sown on a warm border in drills 1 inch deep and 12 inches apart. Cabbages. — When the ground is in a con- dition to tread upon, autumn-planted Cabbages should be attended to ; remove all weeds, and liberally dust the plants with soot, then use the Dutch hoe to loosen the surface of the ground. •Should any of the plants have long stalks draw a little soil around them to keep them in a steady position. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. ORCHIDS. L.BLIA ANCEPS. — Where such plants as Laslia anceps and its many pretty varieties are grown, they will in most cases have finished blooming for the season. I may mention that at Burford we have had no perfect blooms of L«Iia anceps or any of its varieties this year, every bud and flower having been quite destroyed by the fogs. It is now advisable to clean each plant thoroughly. Soon the last made pseudo-bulbs will commence to emit new roots, and no time should be lost in affording fresh rooting material to those that require it. Unless repotting becomes really neces- sary the plants had better be allowed to remain undisturbed. Even when repotting do not disturb the old roots more than is really necessary. It is not advisable or necessary to pot up the whole mass of old back pseudo-bulbs ; leaving about three behind each leading growth will be sufficient. Either shallow pans or Teak wood baskets may be used, the base of the plants being kept about on a level with the rim. Pot firmly in the following compost : Good fibrous peat, leaf-soil, and fresh sphagnum moss in equal parts. The whole should be cut up roughly and be well mixed together, adding a few broken crocks and a little coarse silver sand, so as to allow the water to pass freely away. Fill up around and between the roots and to within an inch of the rim with the compost, and surface with clean, freshly -gathered sphagnum moss. After repotting discretion is needed in watering the plants ; afford just sufficient, using a fine sprayer to keep the surface-moss green and to prevent undue shrivelling of the bulbs and leaves. If too much moisture is given before the plants are established the j'oung roots are liable to damp off. Until new growths appear keep the temperature of the house about So" by night ; 10'' higher by day with sun - heat will be always beneficial, afterwards gradually increasing it as the season advances. Varieties of L.elia anceps. — All the following varieties of L. anceps are well worth adding to the collection : L. a. chamberlainiana, L. a. leeana, L. a. Stella, L. a. sanderiana, L. a. Schrodera3, L. a. Veitchii, L. a. crawshayana, L. a. alba, L. a. Dawsonii, L. a. percivalliana, L. a. protheroeiana, L. a. waddonensis, and many others. Other L.elias. — Such Lslias as L. autumnalis, L. a. alba, L. gouldiana, L. albida, L. furfuracea, and L. majalis, which come from higher elevations than L. anceps, after flowering should be kept comparatively dry at the roots. Place them in the lightest position available in the Odontoglossum house, and as soon as young roots appear the plants may be afforded fresh potting material, but they must be kept in the cool house until the growths appear, when they may be removed to the Mexican house. Lslia rubescens, perhaps better known as L. acuminata or L. peduncularis, is a very pretty Mexican species ; some forms have white flowers, with a dark maroon blotch at the base of the lip, others are a mauve or rosy lilac. Its flowering season is in December. The plants of this species being now at rest, the cool atmosphere of the Mexican house is the best place for them, but when in full growth they should be suspended where a maximum amount of light is obtainable, the best position being close to a ventilator in the East Indian house or plant stove. Burford, Dorking. W. H. White. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. YELLOW FLESH POTATOES. EVIDENTLY seizing upon the recent discussion in the columns of The Garden on the merits or otherwise of yellow and white flesh Potatoes, that eminent French firm Messrs. Vil- morin-Andrieux and Co. have issued a statement in relation to what they describe as the Potato question. There thev point out the superior flavour found in certain French varieties, all of which have yellow flesh. So widely do our methods of cooking and consuming Potatoes difl'or from those in France that, let the varieties they specially commend be ever so well flavoured, it is doubtful, indeed, whether they will become popular in this country. We like our Potatoes cooked and served whole, and it is true, provided they are presented soft and mealy, we make flavour a secondary consideration. The French cook slices and serves up his pommes de tcrre in so many diverse ways, hence it is indeed difficult to detect flavour even if ever so pronounced. French growers specially commend the V^itelette as un- rivalled when served as salading with anchovies. That is odd reading to us, but when they go on to remark that a good-sized yellow flesh Potato care- fully washed, baked in its skin, and eaten with butter and salt is far awaj' superior to any white flesh Potato, our insular tastes are appealed to directly, as the street baked Potato vendor can testify. But how few Potatoes are there that, similarlj' treated, then baked in hotashes, well wiped and cut open, with pepper, salt, and butler added February 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 77 do not form a most tasty morsel, let the flesh be white or 3'ellow. But it may be admitted as undoubtedly true that a yellow flesh Potato has the greater flavour, yet the colour must be only light, or otherwise a very yellow flesh variety is apt to be close and waxy. Probably one of the best yellow flesh Potatoes ever in commerce was Paterson's Victoria, 3'et the real colour was intermediate between white and yellow. The old Yorkshire Regent had whiter flesh, yet it was of reputed excellence. Still, it is to be freely admitted that the yellow tint and flavour are far from being common in modern varieties, and if there be that great excellence of flavour in the French varieties mentioned by Messrs. Vilmorin and Co., would it not be worth while using some of the best as parents, just to see how far it may be possible to infuse their colour and flavour in our better shaped, heavier cropping, and more marketable varieties. Some Potato raiser should try these French tubers for that purpose. Our great difficulty for the past sixty years has been that the disease has found in varieties of the highest quality the most favoured ground for its deadly operations. Between saving crops from destruction on the one hand, and preserving flavour and great constitutional weakness and liability to disease on the other, we had to face a grave problem, and more efifort has been devoted to saving stocks than to the latter consideration, and, as we have seen, with exceeding success. Still, there is no reason now why some effort to win back the old flavour and colour of half a century since should not be made. It is work such as an amateur, having ample time and room and plenty of enthusiasm to sustain him under probable and oft disappointments, may well undertake. After all. Potato crossing and seedling raising, if not always a profitable occupation, is at least a most interesting one, while great possible good may result. A. D. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. ) [T, S' THE PELICA.N FLOWER. (Aristolochia gigas vae. Sturtevantii.) [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] IR, — This variety differs chiefly from the species in having larger flowers. It is impossible to adequately describe the plant. Ten or twelve flowers open or opening at one time form a very striking object. Once seen it is seldom forgotten, fifty to a hundred or more flowers are often pro- duced by one plant in a year. Should extra large flowers be required disbudding must be practised. It was sent to Kew by Mr. E. D. Sturtevant of Bonderton, New Jersey, in 1890. This gentle- man obtained it from a resident on the Hudson River. It flowered in the following year, and soon after this it was noted in the horticultural Press as flowering at Cambridge and Birmingham Botanic Gardens, Park Place, Henley, and other places. The leaves are large and heart-shaped, the stem climbs to a height of from 15 feet to 20 feet. Some of the larger flowers often measure 15 inches or 16 inches across, and 20 inches to 22 inches in length, with a tail upwards of 3 feet in length. This latter appendage forms a convenient ladder for insects to reach the flower. The inside of the throat is lined with hairs turned downwards, evidently to prevent the escape of insects when once inside. The mouth of the tube is velvety purple, the remainder of the flower being creamy yellow, mottled with purple. It does not last long when fully expanded, and emits a rather obnoxious odour. It is easily grown in an ordinary stove tem- perature, either planted out in a border or in a pot, the former for preference, as it grows vigorously. The soil is fibry loam, decayed manure, and sharp sand Cuttings root freely in a propaga- ting frame wi h bottom-heat. The illustration is from a photograph taken last autumn in the Victoria house at Kew. It is sometimes known as the Pelican Flower. A. 0. MR. BLTNYARD ON FRUIT CULTURE. [To THE Editor or "The Garde;*."] Sir, — When I see Mr. Bunyard's name connected with anything pertaining to fruit culture I am always anxious to read it, feeling sure that I shall profit by it. I was, therefore, not a little dis- appointed at what he is reported to have said re Colonial fruits in your issue of the 14th inst. Does Mr. Bunyard really mean to say that foreign Apples are sweeter and better than English? If so, I must disagree with him entirely. I am not writing without some experience of foreign Apples. In years of scarcity I have been a purchaser of various sorts of Apples — Tasmanian, Canadian, ko. ; but I have never tasted one equal to a Cox's Orange Pippin, Claygate Pearmain, or Ashmead Kernel, and many others I could mention. These foreign Apples are certainly good to look at, and no doubt will always command a ready sale on that account, but I cannot believe that they are richer or equal in flavour to our best Eoalish Apples. Again, the present price of Cox's Orange Pippin bears out this statement. My experience of these foreign rx*'^ the pelican FLOWER (ARISTOLOCHIA GIGAS YAR. sturtevantii) at kew. Apples is that they lack juiciness and flavour. They are mealy and often very tough. This is not to be wondered at, for these Apples must be gathered and packed before they are thoroughly ripe. Cirencester. T. Arnold. TREE CARNATIONS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — In a note on these Carnations, on page 407 of The Garden for December 17 last, Mr. A. Hemsley writes : "English raisers have certainly lost ground by discarding the fringed - petalled varieties, which were the first to be grown for winter-flowering, and it would seem that the Americans have greatly profited by keeping to the true type of what was first known as the Tree Carnation." Now this is a highly interesting com- munication if it can be supported by fact. Mr. Hemsley does not give evidence in support of the statement, and I should like to ask him for his proofs. I do not know how far your correspondent is going back when he speaks of those first known as the true type of these flowers, but if we take some of the earliest sorts that became widely known and popular, we have as a white-flowered varietv La Belle, raised fifty or more years ago oy, 1 believe, Mr. S. Hodges of Cheltenham. This was a Tree variety without doubt ; indeed, I have seen the old plants of it 15 feet high. But the flowers were not fringed-petalled in the same sense as are some American Carnations, and even these are much varied in this respect. This old variety, La Belle of English birth, is not unlike the modern Glacier of American origin in so far as its petal edge is concerned. Again, that universal favourite Miss .Jobffe could hardly be regarded as a much fringed-petalled variety, and probably no Carna- tion was grown more than this. Then, again, there is a wide difference in the American sons. Take, for instance, one of the earliest that gained any popularity in England, i.e., William Scott. The edges of the petals were more like the teeth of a rip-saw, but, if this is compared with Daj break or America, we have at once a type of flower quite distinct with regard to the petal edge. It would therefore appear that the Americans consider first the merit or otherwise of the variety, and the true- ness of the type to the supposed original later on. When Mr. Herrington was last in England we were looking at some exhibited flowers of Mrs. Lawson at the Drill Hall, when the former ex- claimed, " I am more and more convinced each time I visit England that our American Carnations are not much good without American sun," and it is just this that so materially assists the planted out or field-grown Carnations in that country. There the plants make as much headway in weeks as ours do in England in months, while the presence of sun in winter stands the opening flowers in such good stead when we in the London district are helpless against fog. For these reasons growers will do no good to themselves or their stocks of Carnations by planting out. This has been tried again and again without success. A score of years ago Messrs. Hooper and Co. of Covent Garden planted out their winter Carnations in this way and obtained good bushes, from which not one-half of the flowers ever opened. Others have had similar results, while their neigh- bours with pot culture have produced equally large bushes to flower well. There is no doubt in my mind that there are in England to-day men suffi- ciently wide awake to try the planting out system if they deemed it advisable, if only for stock pur- poses, while for perpetual blooming these same men know that pot culture is best. Hampton Hill. E. H. Jenkins. FLORAL MOPS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sib, — I sympathise heartily with "Another Reader" (page 44), and would point to the two illustrations of rational culture given on page 43 by way of contrast to the gawky specimens pro- duced on the mop system. On the other hand, we cannot blame our growers for using every cultural means of showing what a variety is really capable of producing in the way of flowers, and this inevitably involves that concentration of all the plant's energies in one or two blooms on mop lines. It is really the fault of the plants, not of the grower, and we may be glad that such a plant as the Queen of Flowers— the Rose— has suflicient faith in its own intrinsic beauty to refuse to respond to similar concentration, and so save us the infliction of Roses as large as full-sized Cabbages, outrivalling even the Chrysanthemum and its fellow culprit, the Malmaison Carnation, which is another monstrosit}'. Ignoramus. THE BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir,— Small gardeners' associations are formed all over our kingdom for mutual benefit and improve- ment. Why, therefore, do not all gardeners support a national institution with branches permeating the British Isles ? The initial cost is small, and each member would have a voice in its 78 THE GARDEN [February -1, 1905. government, so that its rules and laws would of necessity be those made by members. There are pessimists who decry the initial prospectus, as if that were the beginning and ending to such an organisation. The promoters evidently, " from the small fee charged annually,'' wish to appeal to all gardeners, so that all may join forces to bring about more tolerable conditions. I hope the educational element will be brought prominently forward, and that facilities for lectures in all branches of horticulture will be given at each centre. Views thrown on the screen and de- scribed clearly would be a step in the right direction. Many of our young and even older gardeners are not sufficiently educated in such details to grasp all that a lecturer wishes to convoy without such aids. At present there is no system worthy of the name for assisting gardeners to meet with suitable situations. This association would be in a position to give information to employers and employed. Therefore let each member strive to malte it successful, and so endeavour to help his fellow gardeners. Northerner. BAMBOOS IN THE OUTDOOR GARDEN. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir,— I am obliged to " F. C." (page 44) for adding to my list of hardy Bamboos, but the fact is I omitted several which grow freely here in various parts of the grounds and woods, and only mentioned a few representative ones planted in the glen under notice. We have both Phyllostachys nigra and P. n. punctata, also the supposed Arundinaria Falconeri, but not A. nitida. The two former are fine things and perfectly hardy, but the latter, being so susceptible to injury from frost, was not in- cluded in the glen planting, the main object of which was to create a winter picture. Hence it is obvious that it would not be of much use in that connexion. Clumps, large and small, of A. Simoni have flowered freely here as elsewhere ; but the effect on the plants is not so pronounced as in some places, owing to the fact that none of the blooms were left to mature, for the field mice (a terrible scourge here) climb up the stemsand eat every fiower- ing spray while still green and succulent, so the plants do not present quite such a withered appear- ance during summer as some of my neighbours' clumps do, who are not troubled by such vermin. In this case good comes out of evil. A. Simoni grows upwards of 20 feet high and forms a fine object, and some of the other kinds are not much less. The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlch. J. Roberts. FLOWERS IN BRITISH COLUMBIA. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — As a mistaken opinion seems to prevail about the climate here on the coast of British Columbia, to show that we have not had a very hard winter so far [ have the following flowers blooming in my garden at the present time (January 10) : Doronicum, Stock, Geranium, blue, yellow, double white and single white Primroses, Anemone, Pvoses, Pentstenion, Violets, Chrysanthemums, Pansies, double white Arabis, Pyrethrum, Calceolaria, Periwinkle, Marguerites, Carnations, Cineraria stellata, Shasta Daisy, and Snowdrops. Victoria, B.C. F. B. Pemberton. BRITISH V. COLONIAL APPLES. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — In a comparison made between home-grown Apples and those from the Colonies, Mr. Bunyard (page 37) intimates that in point of quality the latter stands highest, and he still further intimates that the British public are labouring under a delu- sion in assuming, as they have done, that their fruit is the best in the world. Mr. Bunyard has attained to such a high position as a practical pomologist that his views are always accepted with much respect, but I am sure many will be wonder- ing why he has taken up so suddenly such a serious attitude. His advice to the home grower to pav greater atteniion to the culture of good kitchen Apples with, it is presumed, an inference to let drop the progress of planting dessert sorts, will come as a surprise, for hitherto the opinion has obtained that British Apples are better in almost every respect save colour. The outlook certainly does not appear favourable for the British producer when we hear of such vast tracts of land being brought under Apple culture in the Colonies and America, and so large an extent of their crop is destined for the home markets. Mr. Bunyard's latest dictum certainly, if borne out by facts, is anything but encouraging to the nurseryman or fruit grower, for if our markets are to be mono- polised by foreign fruit what is the prospect of the Kentish, Hereford, Worcester, and other county orchards. I do not presume to compare qualities of Colonial and British Apples, but I am persuaded that colour is a great and stimulating factor favour- able to the foreign fruit. Opinions would seem to difl^er materially when comparisons are made between home and Colonial-grown Apples. Some extol, while others decry. This was specially noticed at the recent exhibition of the Royal Horticultural Society. Messrs. Cannell made a determined efibrt to arrest the flow of popular opinion which has hitherto been all in favour of the fruit from over the seas. It would appear that on this occasion the Kentish fruit made a most favourable impression on the many interested spectators, and restored the old feeling somewhat that England can still produce fruit as good as any other country, given a favourable season. It is a well-worn story how the Continental fruits are graded and temptingly packed for the British markets, and it is further argued that until we lake a lesson from them so long will this stigma remain. At the great fruit show at the new hall last year there were examples of grading and pack- ing quite equal to any we have seen from the Colonies or the Continent. It is, however, useless to expect great reforms from individual efforts. The combination which Mr. Bunyard urges must come from united action, and I have long since felt that if fruit could be dealt with in a manner similar to that adopted by the dairying industries of this country that profits would increase, and apparently worthless fruit converted into Cider and preserve. After all it is not so much the horticultural fruit grower that has offended in the matter of poor market samples and low prices as the farmer. When fruit of low quality is plentiful it un- doubtedly brings down at the same time the value of better fruits, and I hold that if more of the orchard fruit was converted into Cider and kept out of the markets and fruit shops things would improve. A large and representative body has been organised for the improvement of the Potato. Cannot something similar be devised for the almost equally indispensable Apple ? Or cannot the two interests be dealt with jointly? It is no doubt a great question. It seems foolish to go on continuallyplant- ing more and more fruit trees if they are not likely to provide a living for the cultivator of the future. The decrepit British orchard on the one hand, and the imports from other lands on the other, promise to crush the chances of the deserving class of growers. A county scheme for eflTectually dis- posing of the low grade fruit seems to me the only means of redress, and a scientific method of Cider manufacture would be a great help towards this end. Wills. W. Stkcgnell. MESSRS. ALEX. DICKSON AND SONS' ROSES. (Continued from page GO.) GEORGE DICKSON.— This is a grand Rose of magnificent colour of the Horace Vernet type, a fine flower that will some day create a sensation. Ladij Aaldown.—'Yhe plants of this Rose were literally covered with flowers. One young plant had twelve blooms all perfect at the time of my visit. It is undoubtedly dis- tinct, with fine long buds, something between Mrs. John Laing and Mrs. W. .7. Grant in colour ; a grand bedding Rose, and no doubt useful for e.xhibition ; distributed this last autumn for the first time ; a Hybrid Tea. Irish Engineer. — I think the most vivid scarlet flower I have yet seen ; large flowers ; single, as its name shows ; growing on not very tall plants and produced on rather short stalks, bat a flower that once seen will be wanted. Hugh Watson. — The only Hybrid Perpetual that ^Messrs. Dickson are sending out this year ; of fine form and good colour ; a good crimson that is quite up to exhibition standard. The flowers are large, the buds pointed, and the colour stands well; a valuable and welcome addition to the crimson Hybrid Perpetuals. C. J. Grahame. — This Rose struck me as being most appropriately named ; there was something reminiscent in its bright clear colour of that rosarian who did so much for the flowers he loved. A bright brilliant crimson not yet in commerce ; growth vigorous ; foliage large, but it is the colour that strikes one. It is, I think, without a doubt the most intense coloured variety yet raised. I venture to prophesy the highest of honours for this beautiful flower. Mrs. Myles Kenned;/. — This is a lovely Hybrid Tea — more Tea than Hybrid I should say. Impossible to find a fault with this Rose. The colour is satiny white, edge of petals delicate pink ; flower very large, and of splendid form ; growth vigorous ; altogether a very distinct and beautiful e-v^hibition Rose of first quality. Harry Kirk (H.T.).— This Rose has been much admired wherever it has been exhibited, notably in Messrs. Dickson's stand that was awarded the Barham Cup at the Temple National Rose Society's show last year (1904). It is a fine Rose, of a colour that is muck wanted in the Hybrid Tea class, namely, a deep yellow, beautiful either as a buttonhole or garden Rose, that will also find its way on to the exhibition bench. It is a vigorous grower, and exceedingly free bloomer. The plants I saw were covered with flowers. Duchess of Westminster (H.T.). — If one can imagine a Rose half-way between Killarney and Mrs. W. J. Grant, with petals half as large again as either, and growth and constitution equally improved, one has a very fair idea of this hybrid. I think this Rose, also C. J. Grahame, was given an award of merit at the Holland House show in 1904. It will make a grand Rose for decoration. Lena (T.). — Those who like Beryl will find here a great improvement on that variety. Lena is better in colour, growth, and freedom of bloom, and is altogether a beautiful Rose. Irish Elegance (H.T.). — I see this is the last of the named varieties that I made a special note of, not because I had come to the end of them, but my worthy guides simply would not give me the time to make the notes. But Irish Elegance is an excellent Rose to finish with. It is a gem of the first water. I have no hesitation in placing it first among all the " Irish " Roses, namely, singles. The colour is all shades of apricot, but it is a very diflioult flower to describe accurately ; suffice it to say that in my opinion it is the most beautiful of the whole series, and it will be very much sought after. It is vigorous in growth, flower- ing as long as the weather will permit it with extraordinary freedom. With Irish Elegance my notes on the named varieties of the new seedling Roses draw to a close. There were, as I have already men- tioned, many others, also scores at present only designate I by a number, but equally, and in February 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 79 some cases more, beautiful. No useful purpose would be served by writing of them ; those who are especially interested will find their way, as I did, to Newtownards, and will meet, I doubt not, with an equally hearty welcome. Since the first portion of these rough notes were written, I have been asked by a corre- spondent to give the names of those Koses that we owe to Messrs. Dickson, and as the same may be interesting to more than one of your readers I send you the list herewith. List of Eoses Raised by Messes. Alexander Dickson and Sons. Ethel Brownlow, T. Lady Helen Stewart. H.P. Earlof Dutt'erin, H.P. Caroline DArden, H.P. Mrs. James Wilson, T. Lady Arthur Hill, H.P. Jeannie Dickson, H.P. Marchioness of Dufferin, H.P. Margaret Dickson, H.P. Marchioness of London, derry, H.P. Mrs. K. G. Sharman Craw- ford, H.P. Marchioness of Downshire, HP. Sheila, H.T. Kathleen, H.T. Mrs. W. J. Grant, H.T. Marjorie, H.T. Mavourneen, H.P. Helen Keller, H.P. Tom Wood, H.P. Ellen Drew, H.P. Muriel Grahame, T. Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, H.T. Robert Duncan, H.P. Countess of Caledon, H.T. Ards Rover, H.P. Killarney, H.T. Daisy, H.T. Beryl, T. Mets, T. Ulster, H.P. Shandon, H.T. Mrs, E. Mawley, T. Bessie Brown, H.T. Rosslyn, H.P. Liberty, H.T. Lady Mary Corry, T. Lady Clanmorris, H.T. Gladys Harkness, H.T, Irish Modesty, S. Irish Glory, S. Irish Beauty, S. Robert Scott, H.T. Mildred Grant, H.T. Mamie, H.T. Lady iioyra Beauclerc, H.T. Duchess 01 Portland, H.T. John Buskin, H.T. Edith D'ombrain, H.T. Bob Davidson, H.P. Ards Pillar, H.T. Alice Lindsell, H.T. Irish Star, S. Irish Pride, S. Irish Brightness, S. Gertrude, H.T. Alice Grahame, H.T. Florence Peraberton, H.T. Irish Harmony, S. Irish Engineer, S. Rev. David R. Williamson, H.T. Mrs. David M'Kee, H.T. Mrs. Conway Jones, H.T. Lady Ashtown, H.T. Hugh Watson, H.P. Dr. J. Campbell Hall, H.T. Dean Hole, H.T. Brantwood, Balham. H. E. Molyneux. THE FERN GARDEN. THE STAG'S-HORN FERN. (Platyceeium alcicorne. ) IT may not be generally known that this is one of the best room plants in cultivation. Very few fine-leaved plants will bear the confined atmosphere of a living room throughout the winter without showing signs of suffering, but this Fern is appa- rently quite indifi^erent to the dry atmosphere and impure air of a constantly heated living room. For two years I had a plant in a 6-inch pot in a room constantly occupied throughout the year ; it never lost one particle of its verdure, and grew, forming new shields just as freely as if it had remained in a glass house all the season through. There is something very quaint and distinct about this Fern, and there are few better things for baskets in a cool house. Unlike Ferns generally, it is not very sensitive to neglect in watering ; in fact, I have known plants to remain without water for several days and show no signs of distress. In potting this Fern the crown should be kept well above the rim of the pot. Byfieet. J. c. THE SOFT SHIELD FERN. (POLYSTICHUM ANGULAEE.) With the single exception of the Hart's-tongueFern, which is so often the congenial and yet contrasting companion of the Soft Shield Fern in the hedge" rows and elsewhere of our Fern counties of England and Ireland, though both are very rare in Scotland, it may safely be asserted that no evergreen Fern in all the wide world has yielded a tithe of the varieties or assumed so many diversely beautiful forms as P. angulare. The quite distinct and easily distinguishable forms run into hundreds, and are only eclipsed in diversity by those of the Lady Fern, which, being deciduous, does not con- tradict our opening claim. The Soft Shield Fern is botanically classed as a form of the Hard Shield Fern, P. aculeatum, also a native, but the British Fern fancier regards it as quite distinct, owing not merely to its softer texture, but also to its difterent make and greater delicacy of cutting, and a further difference is seen in the fact that P. aculeatum extends much farther north, being plentiful in the Scottish glens, where P. angulare is never seen. P. aculeatum, too, though it has varied con- siderably, has done so on a far smaller scale than its relative, and has never afforded examples of that marvellously fine division seen in the best plumose forms of P. angulare. It is, indeed, in this special connexion that P. angulare stands absolutely alone in the Fern world, even that won- derful New Zealand Fern Todea superba being quite eclipsed by some of the best of the angulare forms. Normally, the Fern is only twice divided, the lance-shaped fronds bearing side divisions or pinnte, consisting of parallel rows of pinnules, shaped something like a fingerless glove with the thumb at an angle of 45°, this thumb being sharply pointed, and the rest of the pinnule delicately saw-toothed with points or brietlets, which justify the popular name of the Prickly Shield Fern. This is the normal or common type, but it is not infrequently found to have these pinnules divided again into pinnulets, these last, again, assuming the glove and thumb form on a smaller and more slender scale. The spores of such forms have under culture yielded plants still further divided so that in the extreme and most beautiful cases we have division extended to the fifth degree, i.e., with almost hair-like segments, and so multiplied in number that the fronds appear like masses of fine moss. It is a curious fact that this development has not been the result of selection for many generations, but of only one counting from the wild thrice divided sport, the spores of which have at once yielded a batch of these wonderful types. Fortunately fbr the propagator of these charming forms, plants of this type are very prone to produce bulbils in the lower parts of the fronds, and these may be fairly relied upon to re- produce the parental form exactly, while the spores, which are very sparsely yielded, vary much in their resulting progeny. Besides this plumose section, which is a large one, and the best of which figure in such catalogues as those of H. Stansfield and W. F. Birkenhead, both of Sale, near Manchester, and especially in " The Book of British Ferns " (Newnes, 3s. 6d.), wherein they are all fully described, there is a large range of crested or tasselled varieties originating from wild finds which are very beautiful, and also a number of what may be classed as curios, such as revolvens, with the fronds rolled up into tubes, and with convex side divisions to match, cruciatum with the pinna in opposite pairs at right angles, grandidens with all divisions shortened more or less abruptly, and so on. The bulbiferous or proliferous section is also interesting, as it bears a great number of bulbils in the axils of the pinnas and minor divi- sions, forming under favourable circumstances a mossy band down the centre of the frond. This section has usually the glove-shaped pinnules very narrow and acutely pointed, so that it is also termed the acute lobed section. This wide varietal capacity, coupled with the thoroughly evergreen nature of P. angulare, renders it an invaluable Fern for cool or cold conservatories facing north, and a collection of some of the best is undoubtedly far better worth cultivating than many exotics. It is not particularly dainty as to soil, and the usual compost of loam and leaf-mould in equal parts, and a liberal dash of coarse silver sand suits it admirably. Being hardy, it is also, of course, suited for outdoor culture in shaded rockeries, and in thoroughly congenial situations of this kind grows even better than under glass, though, of course, evergreen as it is, the fronds are apt to suffer from winter stress and storm. Chas. T. Deueey. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— TAe Editor intends to make THE GAIlDEN helpful to all readers ivko desire assistaivx, no matter ivhat the braiich of gardeninq may be, and vdth that object will make a special feature of the " Answers to Corre- spmidents" column. All communications shotUd be clearly aiid concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editok of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on business si^ould be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he Tnay desire to be used in tlie paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Names of Plants. — ^Y. J. H. M. — Hamamelis japonica. Ladi/ M. — Lonicera fragrantissiraa (the winter -flowering Honeysuckle). Delta. — 1, Ophiopogon Jaburan argenteo variegata ; 2, Gym- nogramme tartarea oohracea ; 3, Eulalia japonica variegata ; 4, Asparagus Sprengeri ; 5, Adiantum cuneatum. The National Sweet Pea Society (S. C. H.). — The address of the secretary is 32, Dault Road, Wandsworth, S.W. Benary (A New Reader). — M. Benary's address is Erfurt, Germany. The Blde-floweeed Coleus (/. P.). — The plant is Coleus thyrsoideus. To Preserve Tubs (C. B. A.). — A good and cheap material for coating the insides of plant tuba is pilch, which must be made hot in an iron pot (an- old pail will do) and applied with a rough brush. It is very necessary to keep it hot while working, as it sets so quickly. White paint would certainly injure the roots, but if you wish it for appearance sake j'ou may paint the inside of your tubs at the top, that is to say, just the portion which will be visible when the plants and soil are in their places. This when thoroughly dry will not harm the roots of any plant. Of course you may paint the outside any colour you please. Various &\!BiE.CTS.{Artliur Evans). — 1. The prin- cipal points of Gladioli for exhibition are large, well- formed flowers of a good, firm texture, so that a considerable number of them are open on one spike at the same time ; clear and decided colours for flowers of a dull hue are not nearly so effective on the exhibition-table as the purer coloured ones. This applies to the varieties of the Gandavensis section, as those belonging to the Nanceanus and purpureo-auratus groups seldom carry as many flowers on a spike as the Gandavensis ; but this is compensated for by the large size and bright colours of some of them. 2. Both English and Spanish Iris should be planted from the middle of September to the end of October, or at the very latest the second week in November, as if kept out of the ground after that time they lose a good deal of their vitality. 3. As you have no other means of raising seed of Nicotiana Sanderse, your better way will be to bring them on in a light position in a window. Take a clean pot 5 inches in diameter, and place broken crocks in the bottom to nearly half its depth, then fill to within half an inch of the rim with a compost made up of equal parts of loam and leaf-mould, with a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. A few of the rougher portions should be picked out and placed immediately over the crocks, then put in the remainder of the soil, press down moderately firm, and make the surface level. Water through a fine Rose, and while the soil is still wet sprinkle the seed on the top, and cover very thinly with a little fine soil ; then lay a pane of glass over the top of the pot, as this will serve to maintain an even state of moisture. Care must he taken that the sun does not shine directly on the glass, as if this takes place the heat set up would be likely to scorch the young plants. At the same time, as much light as possible should be given them. If sown early in April the seed will soon germinate, and when large enough the young plants may be put singly into small pots, from which they may be planted out when the weather is safe for this to be done. 80 THE GARDEN. fFERRUARY 4, I 935. Cineraria Leaf Spoilt {K E. L. F.). — Your Cineraria leaf presents just the same appearance as those in the London district which underwent the ordeal of that terrible fog so generally experienced just before Christmas.«=" Apart from that we can see nothing to account for the damage, except that the leaf seems particularly soft, in which stage it would be more easily affected by any adverse con- ditions than if of a firmer texture. A free circula- tion of air is very helpful in promoting good healthy foliage. We do not think it is caused by anything in the soil, but of course cannot be sure on that point. Tuberous Begonias ( JVilts). — In the first place /ome strains of tuberous Begonias are the result of a long series of cross-fertilisation and selection, whic:h, if carried out for years, result in plants possessing good qualities. Others again areof a poorer class, and however these may be grown they will not equal the first-named. Commencing with dormant tubers in the spring they are best if started in compara- tively small pots, using for the purpose a mixture of one half loam, and the other half made up of leaf-mould and sand, enough of this last being used to be readily visible throughout the compost when thoroughly mixed. When shifting into larger pots rather more loam soil may be added. Care must be taken not to allow the roots to become pot- bound in the small pots before shifting them into the larger ones, otherwise the plants will be checked. As the pots get full of roots a dose of weak liquid manure and soot water mi.xed about every ten days will be beneficial, as the production of large fleshy blossoms imposes a considerable strain on the plants. When first potted, say in the beginning of March, a night temperature of 50° to 55'^, running up to 70° on sunny days, will be enough. As spring advances and the outside air gets warmer the thermometer of course may be allowed to go up higher, till by the end of May the temperature of the outside air will suffice. Begonias love a good light structure, yet at the same time it is necesary to shade them during bright sunshine. The most sati.- f ictory way of doing this is by blinds, as permanent shading is very injurious. Give a free circulation of air in all stages of growth in order to encourage a sturdy habit. Tufted Pansies for Narrow Border in Front of South - West Waln (Cromwdl). — There are few subjects to compare with the Tufted Pansies for the border, 4 feet wide, you so clearly describe in your query. With a south-western a'pect these plants succeed remarkably well. Our difficulty in recommending other subjects is increased, because they must be of dwarf growth, such as you may be able to step over to attend to your Roses on the wall and see to their require- ments. You say it is " essential " that the plants be low in front. The Tufted Pansies, of course, answer your purpose admirably, and although these plants do not generally succeed so well in the same position two years in succession, when grown under ordinary conditions we think they should do well if you are prepared to take special pains with them. We would advise you to dig the border deeply at once and leave the surface rough until the middle of March. At the present time also dig in a heavy dressing of good manure, applying also a free dust- ing of soot or lime. - Left thus for two months, the frost and weather will do their beneficent work in pulverising and sweetening it, and many of the constituents abstracted from the soil by these deep-rooting plants will, by these means, be replaced. Previous to planting in the spring the ground should be lightly forked over and broken up, and, if it be possible, add at that time a slight dressing of well-decayed manure, such for instance as one may gel from an old hot-bed, the well-being of the plants should then be assured. If possible, also procure fresh stocks of Tufted Pansies, and, if you would like us to advise you, we shall be pleased to recommend sorts of the colours you desire. WHE^' TO Plant Tufted Pansies (Mr. M.). — Early March is generally recommended for planting the Tufted Pansies, and when the weather is suitable that period is an excellent one. There is no hard and fast rule, however, and planting may be done at almost any period, so long as the weather is open and free from anything approach- ing severe frosts. We have planted Tufted Pansies in November and December, and in limited quanti- ties in January and February also. Our plants, however, have always been raised in beds in the open. The cutting-beds are made up in the autumn in a sheltered corner of the garden, with a warm aspect if possible. In such positions the cuttings root quickly. They have no covering whatever, no matter how severe the weather may be, and in the course of the winter season the young plants develop into little clumps, having numerous shoots in embryo under the surface soil. With the approach of the more genial weather of spring the plants make wonderful progress. Plants of this kind reared in hardy conditions may be lifted at almost any time and planted without the fear of losing any of them. If you have to procure j'our plants from the Pansy specialists we fear you could not take such liberties with the specimens they send you. Almost invariably they insert their cuttings in closed frames, and after rooting they are maintained in these conditions until despatched in the spring. Treated in this wa}' they are likely to suffer from cold and cutting winds when planted at too early a date. They always look fresh and green when received, but they are likely to fail when planted before March. Preserving Cut Poinsettias (Amateur). — Poinsettias may be preserved if immediately after they are cut the ends to the length of about an inch are immersed in boiling water for two minutes. This does not prevent the absorption of water by the stems ; consequently the bright green foliage as well as the coloured bracts are preserved in a perfectly fresh state. Searing the ends with a red-hot iron is adopted by some people ; but whilst this prevents bleeding, it checks the absorption of water, consequently whilst the bracts are preserved in a fairly fresh state, the leaves droop quickly. Grass Seeds (Fredenhorg). — Different estab- lishments have their various mixtures of Grass seeds, and we think your better way would be to communicate with some large business house of repute, state as near as possible the conditions, and leave them to furnish the best mixture for the purpose. At the same time the following mixture can be relied upon as a good one ; indeed, accord- ing to the opinion of an authority on the subject, it is one of the very best : Perennial R3-e Grass (Lolium perenne), 10 ; fine-leaved Fescue (Festuca tenuifolia), 5 ; Meadow Fescue (Festuca praten- sis), 5 ; Hard Fescue (Festuca duriuscula), 2 ; Red Fescue (Festuca rubra), 3 ; smooth-stalked Meadow Grass (Poa pratensis), 5 ; Evergreen Meadow Grass (Poa nemoralis sempervirens), 5 ; Cock's-foot (Dictylis glomerata), 2 ; crested Dog's-tail (Cyno- surus cristatus), 3. The figures indicate the different proportions of each in the mixture. To ensure success the soil should be dug at least 13 inches deep, all weeds being carefullj' removed. If of a poor nature some good farmyard manure should be mixed with the soil, but it must not be too near the surface, otherwise it will influence the growth of the young Grass, which will appear patchy. This work should be done in the winter, and the ground allowed to settle till the spring, when it must be made even with a rake, all stones cleared from the top, and rolled till a firm even surface is obtained. For sowing a calm day should be chosen, as it is impossible to evenly distribute such light seed as Grass during windy weather. Before sowing roughen the surface of the ground with a rake, then sow broadcast, first up and down the piece, and after that crosswise, as in this way an even distribution of seed is ensured. When the seed is sown rake the surface again, and, if dry, roll it, but if of too wet or retentive a nature the ground should not be rolled after sowing. The best time to sow the seeds is early in the month of April (at least, this holds good in England), and the quantity needed is 801b. per acre. Small birds are very fond of the seed, on which account pre- cautions must be taken to keep them away till the Grass is well up, which, should the weather be showery, will not take long. When the Grass is sufficiently advanced it may be gone over lightly with a sharp scythe, and frequently rolled with a light iron roller ; in fact, the more it is lightly mowed and rolled during its earlier stages so much the better will it be. Of course, a sharp look out must be kept for all weeds, which must be at once eradicated. Each February a top-dressing of one of the man}' approved fertilisers will be beneficial. Messrs. Sutton and Sons of Reading publish a handbook on "Lawns," which should be of great help to you. Treatment of Hydrangeas (H. S. Simp.':on). — Few plants are better suited for early forcing than the common Hydrangea (H. hortensis), and the white variety Thomas Hogg is equally service- able and cannot be too highly recommended. We have had both in bloom early in February, and although the colour was not quite so good as in plants flowering when we get more daylight, they were very useful, especially as they were among the few subjects which did not suffer from the London fogs. For forcing, the plants should be propagated early in the summer. The soft young tops will strike freely in a close pit where there is a good bottom-heat. As soon as rooted they should be removed and gradually exposed. When sufficiently established they may be potted into 4|-inch pots, using good rich loamy soil. The plants should be grown in the open where they are fully exposed to the sun. Towards the autumn they should be kept rather dry to encourage them to ripen off early. If treated too liberally the plants will run up tall and will not set their bloom so well. Violas in Winter [T. G. Kemp). — The tufted Pansies may be almost regarded as alpine plants, and the newer race of plants more particularly so. As the cuttings were inserted during late August, September, and October, we have every reason to believe that the resulting plants will winter very well without any special covering or protection. Do not be misled by those who would tell you that pretection by the aid of frames is absolutely essential. You certainly did well to run 6-inoh boards round your cutting-beds, as this is an excellent check against cold and cutting winds, and affords just the necessary amount of comfort the plants require until the spring. Do not give yourself any anxiety because of their appearance. Your plants during the winter and early spring may not look so well or so promising as those raised in frames, but when the planting time comes round in the spring those raised in the hardier manner that we have advocated should have many growths in embryo just underneath the surface soil, and these quickly make charming tufts. Another advantage in planting tufted Pansies raised in the open is that they never suffer very materially from the cold and cutting winds in the spring that cause less hardy plants to shrivel and suffer in consequence. Keep the worm-casts pressed down or the plants may fail. Summer-flowering Lilies for Sandy Soil (A. I'.). — There are many Lilies that may be planted quite safely during the next eight weeks, and these are the showiest of their race. L. aura- tum (August) and its many forms are good, L. Batemanniaj (August), L. Hansoni (.luly), L. longiflorum in about six varieties (.July), L. tigrinum splendens (.July-August), L. elegans or thunbergianum in about ten varieties (.June-July), and L. umbellatum in four varieties (.Tune), should all grow well in your sandy soil, and flower freely this season. Plant deeply, and if the soil is poor enrich with fresh kitchen garden soil that has been manured a year ago. If the site to be planted is bare, plant low-growing, shallow-rooting peren- nials to form a carpet of leafage from which the Lily stems would rise, and into which they could root. A teniporarj' soil covering, to last one season only, is possible by sowing Gypsophila elegans, Nemophila, the Swan River D.iisy (Braohyoome), or other annuals that may be preferred, whose roots do not descend deeply and whose growth is light. Fbbruary 4, 1905. J THE GAKDEN. IX. Book on the Seed Trade. — " R. E. A." writes : " Could you inform me of a book that will be useful to a lad that is just starting in the seed trade (both trade and retail bulbs and seeds) ? ,[We do not know of such a book, but perhaps some reader could help our oorrospopdent. — Ed. J Eradicating Liverwort on a Rock Garden (il/r.s. iS. M.). — The safest and most effectual way of getting rid of this troublesome plant in the rook garden is by scraping and removing it from the stones and surface of the soil. It may be killed by means of weed killers or by a solution of carbolic acid to the extent of a wine-glassful or more to a gallon of water. But where there are other plants it is not advisable to apply it so that it can reach them. Covering the Liverwort with a layer of sand to the depth of 1 inch has been found effectual in smothering it ; but this is not always convenient in the rock garden, and the method of removing it by hand, and keeping it under by preventing the spores from ripening and spreading, is far the best, although a somewhat tedious task at first, till one has got the upper hand of it. How TO Grow Incurved Chrysanthemum Mi.LE. Lucie Fauue {P. W. H.).—Yom have failed hitlierto probably because you retained the wrong kind of buds. Few incurved sorts develop evenly trom a first crown bud selection, and from what you tell us of your experience with this plant, we should think the buds went blind. This fine creamy-while bloom can only be perfected from a second crown bud selection, and to ensure the development of these buds within the proper period special measures have to be taken. For a Glouces- tershire garden your plants should be grown on strongly from this time forth, and during the closing days of March the point of the growth of each plant should be pinched out. Keep the plants rather dry for a few days, and in a short time new shoots will be developing in the axils of the leaves. These, to the number of three or four, should be grown on subsequently, and second crown buds — the second series of buds after this manipulation — should be retained. This is the only way to deal with the variety under notice, and there are several other equally good sorts that need the same treatment. Plants on Shaded Border (Egremont). — To make a success of your border, the ground must, in the first place, be thoroughly tilled. It ought to be trenched quite 2 feet deep, and, as it is heavy, you should mix with it such materials as decayed leaves, lime and mortar rubble, and road scrapings, so as to improve its mechanical con- dition. We understand from your sketch that the fence is behind, that is, on the south side of the hedge, so really it is only the 12 feet high hedge that you have to take into consideration. As the plants are 12 feet high, naturally their roots take up a good deal of space in the border, and therefore impoverish it to some extent. To counteract this, deep digging and manuring the soil are essential. It would be a good plan to ditr a trench, say, 1 foot wide and 2 feet deep ; the object of this would be to prevent the roots of the hedge entering the border on the other side of the trench. You do not say what plants the hedge consists of. With some, the Yew, for instance, it woidd be more risky to do this than with others. You might dig the trench 1 foot deep this year, and an additional foot next year, so as not to check the hedge trees too much at once. If you cared to plant a few shrubs at the back of the border, you might try Rhododendron, Philadelphus, the Snowberrv, Forsythia, the common and white Brooms, Daphne Mezereum, Ribes sanguineum, Bjrbeiis, Camellias, Witch Hazel (Hamamelis), the deciduous Honeysuckle (Lonicera Standishii and L. fragrantissima), and Olearia Haastii (the New Zealand Daisy Plant). Among flowering plants other than shrubs you might plant some of the stronger growing Roses Japanese Anemones (most useful for a shaded border). Day Lilies (Hemero- oallis), Solomon's Seal, Liliums, Aquilegias, Prim- roses, Forget-Me-Nots, Wood Anemones, Violas, | Lily of the Valley, and Violets. All these do well | in the shade if you give them good soil. Of course, your border is very unsatisfactorily placed; but still we think, with good tillage, keeping out the roots of the hedge trees, and pUnting suitable plants, it may be made very attractive. CuttingsofOutdoorChrysanthemums(7'. W.J.). As you have no protection whatever for striking cuttings of Chrysanthemums, the better way will be to treat the plants of your outdoor varieties much the same as ordinary herbaceous plants, that is to say, when danger from hard frosts is over, say, in April (or earlier if you feel safe), lift the plants and divide them, again replanting with as little delay as possible. By this means you may increase your stock to a considerable extent, but not nearly as much as you might do by the help of a frame in which to put cuttings as soon as the young shoots had grown sufficiently to be ready for removal. Without any appliances, the only way to propagate outdoor Chrysanthemums by means of cuttings is to take them in May and dibble them into a sheltered border shaded from the direct rays of the sun. For this purpose the soil should be well dug, and if at all stitf a con- siderable amount of sand must be incorporated with it, removing at the same time any stones or lumps from the surface. Being made tolerably firm, the cuttings may then be dibbled in their place. They should be put in about 1 inch apart, for as soon as they are well rooted the young plants must be removed to their permanent quarters. When finished give a good watering through the rose of a water-pot, to settle the soil in its place ; the cuttings greatly benefit by being frequently sprinkled overhead. A length of 3 inches is very suitable for the cuttings, which, in separating from the parent plant, should be taken as low down as possible, for the portion underneath the ground often has an independent root or two. \* We are answering the shoal of questions as quickly as possible so as to prevent unnecessary delay. Many are left over until next week. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. At a meeting of the Koyal Horticultural Society on the 24th ult. the Orchid committee gave awards to the following hybrids : Ci/pn'pcdium leeannm var. J. Gurney Fowler. — This is a remarkable variety of C. leeanum. The dorsal sepal is as broad as long, and is wliite except for a green tinge at the base and a line of ciirason dots down the centre. The petals, which have curled margins, are green, marked with dull purple ; the lip is large and brjad, dull purple with green maigin Shown by Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans. Fjrst-class certilicate. Calanthe Chapmami. — It is difficult to correctly describe the colour of tins new Calanthe, a hybrid between C. burford- ensis and C. Oakwood Kuby. It is a richly-coloured flower. The prevailing colour is crimson ; there is a purple tinge also. It was shown by Mr. Norman C. Cookson, Wylam-on- Tyne. First-class certificate. Cypripedium G. F. Moore.— C. mooreanum and C. Sallieri aurenm are the parents of this hybrid. It is a handsome flower ; the petals are marked with brown upon a green ground in the lower half ; the upper half is creamy white. The lip is marbled with brown upon a lighter ground. Shown by Mr. G. F. Moore, Chardwar, Bjurton-on-the- Water, Gloncester. Award of merit. Cypripedium San-Actceus.—The intercrossing of C. Actajus and C. insigne Sandeire produced this Cypiipedium. The dorsal sepal is white, except for a green shading at the base, marked with dots of purple. The pelals and pouch are pale green, shaded with brown. B'rom Mr. Norman C. Cookson, Wylam-on-Tyne. Award of merit. Odontoylo.f.'jam mirificmn. — This is a beautiful hybrid flower of excellent f^rm, the result of a cross between 0. crispum and 0. sceptrum. The petals are white, with a few rose-red blotches ; the sepals and the lip are heavily blotched with the same colour ; the lip has a yellow ground. From Mr. Norman C. Cookson. Award of merit. Cypripedium aureuni iiyeanum.. — A handsome form of aureum. The! dorsal sepal is large and broad, with the e.xception of the centre, which is green, striped with brown, it is white. The petals are green and brown, and the pouch dark brown. Shown by Mr F. M. Ogilvie. Award of merit. Cypripedium Laurehel (shrubbery variety).— The dorsal sepal is crimson, marked with almost black fines, and having a white margin, The lip is dull crimson ; the petals are the same colour, though tinged with green. From Mr. F. M. Ogilvie, Oxford. Award of merit. Cattlcya Oetai'e Doin.—A beautiful flower, a cross between C Mendelii and C. aurea. The petals, which are white, with purple edges, are so arranged as almost to encircle the lip. The base of the lip is rich purple ; there are two broad lines of yellow on either side of the throat entrance ; the throat is marked with brown lines on a yellow gruund. From Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Ileatuii, Bradford. Award of merit. Lcetio-Cattleya, Charlesicorthi magnifica.—A handsome and striking flower with rich orange-red sepals and petals and purple lip. It Is a beautiful form of this valuable hybrid. Shown by Mr, F. Wellesley, Woking. Award of merit. The floral committee gave an award of merit to each of the foil-fwing : Cotoneattter pannosa.-X graceful and elegant winter beiry-beaiing species. The berries are scarlet in colour, of Ihe size of those of the White Thorn, and are arrangtd ill axillary clusters on the stems. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Limited. Chelsea. Erica med'terraiiea hybrida. — A very beautiful and valuable winter-flowering Heath, a hybrid between E. medi- terranea and E. carnea. The bushy plants are delightfully free flowering, the pink flowers are arranged in spicate racemes. The plants are nearly 1 foot high. From Messrs. E. Veitch and S ms, Exeter, SOCIETIES. CROYDON AND DISTRICT GARDENERS" SOCIETY. Prugra-m:me for 1905. February 7.— A delegate from British Gardeners' Associa- tiuij. February 21.— "Some Problems of Fruit Culture," by Mr. R. Lewis Castle (gold medallist of the Fruiterers' Com- pany), Wimbledon. March 7.—" Views from a Croydon Garden " (illustrated), by Mr. M. E. Mills, Coombe House Gardens. March 21.— " Winter Vegetables aud Saluda," by Mr. Jas. Gibson, Teddingron. ApriU.— " Herbaceous Plants," by Mr. C. H. Jenkins, Hampton. April 19 (Wednesday).— Exhibition of spring flowers, MaylG,— " Spring and Summer Bedding," by Mr. W. J. Marlow, sup. rintendent of Greenwich Park. June 20. — " The Distribution of Plants by Adaptation," by the Rev. Professor Henslow, M.A., V.M.H. Theflrst meeting of the Croydon and District Horticultural Mutual Improvement Society for this session was held at the Sunflower Temperance Hotel, when llr. W. A. Cook, Shirley Park Gardens, read a very lucid and practical paper on " Mushrooms." The treatment advocated was principally growing these edible fungi by artificial means, and Mr. Cook reraai'ked, with emphasis, upon the suitability of the bed being the essential constituent for good results, for until this has been properly prepared it is useless to attempt to get a crop. Procure good stable manure from horses fed on corn, taking care the animals are not under physic It should be allowed to remain heaped up for some time, turning the heap about twice a week. W'hen a temperature of 75'^ to SO"" is kept up the beds may be prepared in a sloping condition, about 4 in 12. These are best made in a covered shed, for then protection is given from severe frost and rains. Cover the bed with finely sifted loam to a depth of 3 inches, break the spawn into pieces about the size of a hen's egg, and insert 9 inches apart Gently pat the bed down — but not plaster the surface — cover over with loose litter about 2 inches or 3 inches deep. If the bed becomes at all dry moisten with tepid water containing a little salt ; but great care should be exercised in applying moisture, other- wise the bed will be spuilt. The Mushrooms should appear in six to eight weeks from time of spawning. An exhibit of Mushrooms was staged by Mr Cook, and from the hon. secretary (Mr. H. Bushier) came samples of bottled fruit, sterilised under the process recommended by Mr. Leech in a previous lecture, which was much appreciated. On the proposition of the chairman (Mr. M. E. Mills), a unanimous vote of thanks was accorded Mr. Cook for his lecture. LONDON DAHLIA UNION. A MEETING of the supporters of the London Dahlia Union took place at the Hotel Windsor on the 2-tth ult., Mr. John Green, chairman uf the union, presiding, there being a good attendance ; in addition, a number of letters were read promising support in the present year. The annual report set forth that an exhibition of a very high order of merit was held in the Prince's Hall, Earl's Court, in September last, and it was representative of every type of the Dahlia. There was a keen competition in all the classes, and espe- cially in that for twelve bunches of Cactus Dahlias, which brought a number of stands of unusual quality, the new varieties of 190i being conspicuously represented. The special prizes given by Mr. F. G. Gledstanes, the object of which was to bring to the fore the varieties best adapted for garden decoration, aroused considerable interest, several exhibits being staged. Mr. Gledstanes has generously promised to continue his special prizes this year and in 190(3. Reference was made to the high quality of the examples of Pompon and single Dahlias, while Mr. W. Marshall's special prizes for Pompon Cactus Dahlias brought some pretty varieties. The floral decorations were numerous and the admiration of all; the trade exhibits were varied and very fine. The financial statement showed an income of £69 Is. 9d. and an expenditure of some £67, leaving a small balance to be carried forward. Arrangements are being made with the London Exhibitions, Limited, for the annual exhibition to be held a. Earl's Court in September next. Seventeen first-class certificates of merit were given to new varieties of Dahlias, mcstly of tlie Cactus, type. Mr. John Green was re-elecled chairman of the union, and Mr. R. Dean hon. secretary. The schedule of prizes was passed with a few modifications, and the arrangements of the show left in the hands of the chairman and secretary. Great regret was expressed a*, the absence of the secretary through illness. FRIOCKHEIM HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, N.B. The annual general meeting took place on the 21stult., when the treasurer's financial statement, which showed a small bnlanceinfavourof the society, was approved of. Thefollowing office-bearers were appointed : Honorary president. Captain Guthrie ; president, Mr. J. Davidson, Damside House; vice- president, Mr. George Esplin, Leysmiil ; secretary, Mr. George Johnston ; treasurer, Mr. D. Can ; with a large committee. THE GARDEN. [February 4, 1905. SOtJTHAIirPTON EOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. AMONa other things the annual report states that, although the society has only just been able to pay its way during the past year, the council considers the society's tlnancia' position satisfactory, in view of the general depression that hns pre- vailed. In the e.irly part of the year .Mr. Girton dec ded to resign the hon. secretaryship of l.he Southern Counties Car- nation Society, and in consequence it was decided to dissolve that society. Feeling that tlie discontinuance of the Carna- tion shows would be a very regrettable loss to tlie town and distiict, your council was approached with a view to the work being carried on by tills sociely. A joint meeting was held, and the following arrangeinents agreed upon, viz. : That members of the Carnation Society transferring their subscriptions to the Southampton Royal Horti'^ultral Society, to become memViers of the latter, entitled to the same privi- leges as other members, but that their subscriptions should be credited to the Carnation siiow account. That the Carna- tion shows should be managed — as regards prizes, judges, and exhibition arrangements— by a special committee, including subsciibers to ilie Carnatit-in show funds, Mr. Garton, jun., generously promising a very liberal annual subscription, provided the Carnation shows were held as separate exhibitions, and styled tlie Southern Counties Show. A canvas of the members of the late society resulted in nearly SO per cent, consenting to the forej;oine arrangement, many increasing their sub-cription. The exhibitions of the past season had --ach a record in tlie total number of entries, and the qualjry of the exhibits was generally of the highest order of merit. The summer show will be held this year on July 26. and the autumn show on October 31 and November 1. NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. The following notice is being issued to raisers, importers, and distributors of new varieties : — The executive committee lias decided that on and after January 1, 11)05, a department of plant registration shall be instituted by the society. Raisers, importers, and dis- tributors of new varieties (whether members of the society or not) are requested to send to the registrar appointed by the society, on or before December 31 in every year, a list of all new varieties they intend to send out in the ensuing year. Such list to contain name and description of variety, name of raiser and distributor, and section to which the new variety belongs, on forms that will be provided upon appli- cation to the registrar. It is requested, if it be possible, to submit any such new varieties previously to the floral committee for classihcation. The information thus obtained will then be inserted in the annual report and schedule of prizes every year, and thus the society's ofticial catalogue will practi'-ally be kept up to date The registrar at present is -Air. C. Harman Payne, l-ll, 'Wellmeadow Road, Catford, S.E. BRIGHTON AND SUSSEX HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. ANxrAL Report, 1904. In submitting the balance sheet for the past year the com- mittee have to report a loss of £56 63. lid. on the year's working. This is very much to be deplored, considering the three very tine exhibitions given by the society. The weather, especially during the summer show, was against good atteu'lance, and the receipts suffered accordingly ; but it was noticed generally that during the three shows lack of interest was very apparent on the part of the public. On the other hand, the committee desire to thank the president, vice-presidents, and subscribers for their valuable support and interest, without which it will be impossible for the society to carry on the good work of so many years. It is gratifying to mtte the steady increase in the number of ordinary members, whose interest in the society is its main- stay, and the committee hope these numbers may be still further increased. It will thus be observed that the society depends on further subscriptions and a better attendance on the part of the general public. The thanks of the society are due to Alderman H. .\iihey, J. P., for presenting a silver cup to the value of ten guineas, also to H. Young, Esq., for a special prize of five guineas for competition in 1905. HIGHGATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. This old-established society held its annual meeting on the 26th ult. at the Highgate Literary and Scientific Institution, Highgate, N. The president, Mr. E H. Smithett, who is an enthusiastic horticulturist, occupied the chair. The meeting augured well for the future well-being of the society. The forty-fifth annua] report and statement of accounts were duly read, received, and adopted, and the pleasing announcement that there was a balance on the right side, although small, was also a cheering fact. The chairman, who proposed the adoption of the report, &c., referred to the excellence of the last show, stating that one of the judges, who had adjudicated for them for many years past, expressed the opinion that it was one of the best displays they had had for ten years. He also announced that Lord Mansfield had consented to act as president for the new year, and had also placed his charming grounds at the disposal of the society for its show in 1905. Ken 'Wood, midway between Highgate and Hampstead, is a very beautiful place. The society is to be congratulated on its good fortune. (^Ulcers and committee were re-elected, and a new pecretarv (Mr. Cawte) was appointed as successor to the late Mr. W. Boyce. The recent market show of Chry- santhemums.— A meeting of the committee ■n'hich carrif,! out the .show at Essex Hall on Deceniher 10 last was held at Carr's Restaurant on the 2.5th ult., when Mr. R. Dean, the secretarj-. reported that the receipts from all sources had amounted to .£37 19). 3J. Of this sum £26 lOj. 6<\. had been received as subscriptions, medals had been presented to the value of £8 18i. 3d., and the amount of £2 10s. 6d. was taken by the sale of tickets and payments at the doors. On the expenditure side medals awarded and engraving had cost £21 7s. 91. ; show expenses, including hire of tables and vases, bill posting, judges' expenses, c&c, amounted to £8 3'. Id., leaving a balance in hand of £8 8^. 51. As the committee of the National Chrysanthemum Society had borne the expense of the hire of Essex Hall, printing the schedule of prizes, and circulating the same, repre- senting in all about £7, it was resolved that this sum be paid into the general accuntof the society, leaving a balance of £1 8s. 5d. to be carried forward. It was resolved that a meeting of the market committee be held within the next month, when any arrangements for the future will be fully considered. In the evening the committee and a large number of supporters of the market show dined together at Carr's Restaurant, under the presidency of Mr. Robert Ballantine, chairman of the committee, the tables being charmingly decorated with Chrvsantheniuras supplied by Mr. George Priekett. In the course of the evening various suggestions were thrown out, and were referred to the consideration of the committee. A most enjoyable evening was spent. Great satis- faction was expressed at the presence of Mr. R. Dean, the secretarv. after his long illness. Social meeting- of Dundee and Broughty Ferry Horticultural Asso- ciations.— On the evening of January 20 the members of the Horticultural Associations of Dundee and Broughtv Ferry held their annual social meeting in Wood's Rooms, Commercial Street, Dundee. There was a large attendance of members and their friends, and the chair was occupied by ex-Bailie Melville, who was supported on the platform by a number of the local nursery- men and gardeners. The toast of the evening, "The Horticultural Associations of Dundee and Broughty Ferry," was entrusted to Mr. D. Storrie, of Messrs. Storrie and Storrie, who made a happy speech, which was warmly received by the larye conipan}'. Fitting replies were given by Mr. R. Cairns on behalf of the Dundee Association, and by Mr. J. Slater on behalf of the Broughty Ferry Association, In the course of the evening a number of highly-appreciated songs and recitations were given by several of the members and friends. The social meeting was one of the most enjoyable yet held in connexion with the associations. Royal Horticultural Society's examinations, 1905. — School teachers. — This society will hold an exami- nation in cottage and allotment gardening on Wednesda}', April 5. This examination is intended for. and will be confined to, elementary and technical school teachers. It has been under- taken in view of the increasing demand, especially in country districts, that the school teachers shall be competent to teach the elements of cottage and allotment gardening, and of the absence of any test whatever of such capacity. The general conduct of the examination will be on the same now well-known lines as that of the more general examination, save in obvious points to which they would not apply. Intending candidates are requested to sHnd in their names early in March. A silver-gilt Flora medal will be awardeil to the candidate gaining the highest number of marks, and each candidate will receive a certificate of the class in which he has passed. The society's annual examination in the principles and practice of horticulture will be held on Wednesday, April 12. The society is willing to hold an examina- tion wherever a magistrate, clergyman, school- master, or other responsible person accustomed to examinations will consent to supervise one on the society's behalf and in accordance with the rules laid down for its conduct. A copy of the syllabus, covering both examinations, will be sent to any person on receipt of a stamped and directed envelope. Questions set at the P^oyal Horticul- tural Society's examinations, 1803 — 1904, may also be obtained at the s'lciefy's oliices, Vincent Square, Westminster, price Is. Gd. NOTES FROM MARKETS. THE COVENT GARDEX MARKET. Average Wholesale PKicts. FloWEES. ^ rf g^ d. Azalea indica alba . . . . per dozeQ bunches -1 0 lo 6 0 mollis .. .. ,, „ 12 U „ 18 0 Bouvardia, white . . .. ,, ,, U 0 ,, 8 0 ,. pink and red ,, „ 5 0 „ 0 0 Calla iethiopica ., .. ,, blooms a 0 ,, 5 0 Camellias „ „ 2 0 „ 3 0 Cattleya labiata .. .. ,, „ s o „ 12 0 Carnations ,, bunches IS u ,, 3U 0 ,, special American varieties „ blu 'Hh ;i U „ 0 0 Cyclaruen .. .. .. ,, bunclic-s G U ,, a 0 Cypr ipeiiium insio-ne and others „ bluuma 'J G ,, 3 (i Demliithium nobilri ., ,, „ "2 6 ,, 3 6 Datfudils, yellow trumpet ,, bunches GO,, Q 0 double .. .. „ ,, a 0 „ 12 0 ,, princeps .. ,, ., 7 0 ,, 9 0 Eucharis ainazouica . . „ blfxuns 3 0,, 4 0 Euphorbia j iciiuiiiiicfiora .. per liunch 2 0,, 3 0 Freesia lefracta alUa .. per dozen bunches 3 G ,, 4 6 GarJenias .. .. .. „ blooms 2 U ,, 3 0 Hellcboius iiiger .. .. ,, ,, 1 G „ 2 0 Hyaciiitbs, Roman .. „ bunchts GO,, SO Lilac. English forced .. . per bunch 3 U ,, 4 0 „ Kiench „ 3 6 „ 4 0 Lilium aural um .. .. ,. „ 2 6 ,, 3 0 ,, loiigiHorum ,. ,. ,, 4 0 ,, 5 0 ,, laucifolimu album .. ,, 2 0 ,, 2 6 ,, ,, rubrum ., ,, 2 U „ 2 6 ,, tigririum ,, 2 0 ,, 3 0 Lily of the Valley.. .. per dozen bunches 9 0 ,, IS 0 Lycaste Skinneri .. .. ,, blo'-m^ 5 0,, 6 0 Marguerites, white .. ,, bunches 3 0,, 4 0 yellow .. „ ,, 2 6 „ 3 6 Narcissus, Papet-white .. per dozen bunches 3 0,, 4 0 Soleil d'Or .. ,, „ 3 6 „ 5 0 ,, Giori.isa . ,, ,, 3 0 „ 4 0 Odontoglossura crispum. . „ blooms 2 6 „ 3 0 Pancratiums .. .. „ ,, 4 0 ,, 0 0 Primula sinensis, dbl. white ,, bunches 5 0,, 6 0 Pelargonium (show), white ,, ,, 4 0 ,, 6 0 (zonal), dbl. sclt. „ ,, 6 0„ 9 0 „ salmon „ „ C 0 „ 8 0 Poinsettias ,, heads 3 0,, SO -Ruses (English) .. .. „ blooms 5 0 „ 12 0 ,, (French) .. .. „ „ 1 0 „ 2 0 Tuberoses „ ,. 0 G „ 0 8 ,, on stems .. .. per bunch 0 9,, 10 Tulips per dozen bunches ti 0 „ 12 0 Violets, blue .. .. ,, ,, 2 6 ,. 4 0 ,, Parma per bunch 3 6 „ 5 0 Orn^amental Foliage. Asparagus pluniosus .. .. per bunch 10,, 2 G ,, ,, .. long traih, each 0 9,, 10 ,, ,, Sprengeri per bunch 0 9,, 16 Adiantum cuneatum .. per dozen bunches GO,, 9 0 Cycas leaves each 10,, 10 Alyrile per dozen bunches 4 0,, 6 0 Mtidiola asparagoides (Siuilax) . .long trails, per bunch 2 0,, 3 0 English Fern (various) .. per dozen bunches 3 0 — Berberis Mahonia. . .. ,, ,, 2 G ,, 3 0 Ivy leaves (bronze) .. ,, ,, 1 6 ,, 2 0 ,, long trails .. .. .. per bu'ich 1 0 ,, 2 0 ,, short green .. .. per dozen bunches 10,, 16 Fruit. Apples, English dessert .. .. per sieve 4 0 ,, 12 0 ,, ,, culinary .. ,, ,, 2 0 „ 5 0 ,, American .. .. per barrel 10 0 ,, 15 0 ,, Newtown Pippins .. per case IG 0 ,, IS 0 Bananas, Jamaica .. per bunch 5 0 „ 10 0 Canary Islands .. ,, „ SO „ 14 0 Cob Nuts per dozen lb. 5 0 „ 6 0 Cranberries per box 6 0,, 8 0 Grapes, Alicante per dozen lb. SO,, 12 0 Gros Colmar .. .. „ ,, 10 0 „ 24 0 Lemons per case S 0 ,, 14 0 Oranges, Valencias .. .. ,, 6 6 „ 10 0 ,, Jatfas „ 10 0 ,, 12 0 ,, Jaraaicas .. .. ,, 5 0 ,, 7 0 Pears „ 10 0 „ 12 0 Pines, St. MichaeVs each 2 G ,, 5 0 TRADE NOTES. "GlANT-FLOWEKKD SWKET PKAS." The list of Bolton's giant-Ilowered Sweet Peas, published by Mr. R jbert Bolton, Sweet Pea specialist, Warton, Carnforth, contains parliculais of every variety of note. Intending planters wlio are not acquainted with the merits of eacli variety would do well to consult Mr. Bulton's list ; the number of sorts of Sweet Peas is now almost legion, ami even the e.xpert needs some reliable descriptive list to guide him in his choice. To the amateur, therefore, such a list is (|uite indispensable. Among the new sorts described in Mr. Bolton's catalogue we might mention B jlton's Pink, a large llowcr of rich pink colour that has been awarded three certificates of merit ; Gladys Deal, a clear light blue ; and New Blue Seedling, an improvement on Captain of the Blues. All the standard .'^orts are al-> liotp.i, *,i*The Yearly Suhscription to I'HK Uakoen w ; Inland, Gs. Cd. ; Foreign, 6"s. 'M. GARDEN ^J^3J Si*:! No. 1734.— Vol. LXVII. February 11, 1905. I ENGLISH NAMES FOR PLANTS. AEECENT writer on the subject of flower names deplores the growing habit of calling old favourites by their botanical equivalents, and expresses a hope that " the day will come when we shall free ourselves from the tyranny of hideous names." The question arises, how are we to gain such freedom 1 It is certainly true that we may nowadays hear an old cottage dame proudly declare, as she points to her fine Snapdragons, "We calls 'em Aunt Trynums now." And as we look into the kindly wrinkled face we think — sadly enough, perhaps — that surely " the old order changeth." Nevertheless, the problem of English names, simple and suitable for our garden plants, is not readily solved. There is little fear that the hallowed names of Marygold and Honesty, Forget-me-not and Heart's-ease, Celumbine, and the rest which are woven into the warp and woof of our current English tongue and literature, will ever die out in good earnest. But what of the multitudes of new plants, unknown to our forefathers, with which we are enriched to-day? There is scarcely a garden, however sma,ll, which does not con- tain some flowering shrub or herbaceous perennial for which no English name can be found, which is not as yet recognised, in fact, as a naturalised British subject. Many attempts have been made during the last thirty years to coin new English names to fit some of these desirable aliens whom we wish to welcome and to domicile, but it has been more or less so far a failure. There is no real objection to such modern names as Foam Flower or Plantain Lily, but they have not taken root in our every-day speech as freely as in our gardens ; and, when we have to characterise the different kinds of Plantain Lily, we have no choice but to fall back upon a scientific nomenclature. Possibly we might have taken more pains to enquire after the local names of imported plants, so that both root and name might have been translated together. Local names are generally significant and sometimes pleas- ing. Yet other-landers have not always been entirely happy in their choice of flower names. Take, for example, the Eose des Alpes. Have we never, in former days, met tourists in the Swiss mountains with hands full of the little Rhododendron so named, while they sought in vain for the alpine Rose which they expected to find. Of course, we are all too clever now to make such a mis- take, but it may serve as an instance of the uselessness of a vernacular name which applies to two totally distinct plants. In our own language it is still a moot point whether the old name of Gilly-flower belonged formerly to Stock or Carnation. The weight of evidence rests probably with the latter, yet that the name was indiscriminately used may be fairly concluded from the fact that in country districts one may still occasionally hear the old folk speak of the Stock as a Gilly-flower. In passing we may remark that those who have made a study of the derivation of words tell us that hardly any of our common plant names belong in truth to our native English. Most of them come either from a French or Latin root, and nothing goes to prove more strongly the mixed character of our common speech than these time-worn names which we cherish as purely English. Most of us would be ready to credit the Rose with an English name, yet Rose was borrowed from the Latin. The true English name for the plant lingers in the word " hep " or " hip," which we now I use solely for its fruit, though once it meant both plant and flower. It becomes us, there- fore, to be modest in speaking of the name- origin even of our national flower. But, taking our conglomerate tongue as it is, how hard to find a name— short, descrip- tive, and apt— for a new plant. Anyone who has tried to coin such a name that vnll prove both altogether fitting and likely to live in our garden vocabulary knows the diflfioulty. We can scarcely revert to the old doctrine of signatures upon which our ancestors drew so freely ; and crisp, representative words are comparatively limited and fail to hit the mark when we come to apply them. Here, then, is a task worthy of greater intellect and fuller knowledge than has of late been bestowed upon it. There are numberless plants in our gardens of which we are obliged to confess that they have no English names, and the botanic Greek or Latin compound falters upon our lips, for, as a rule, we can discern that it is absolutely meaningless, leaving no impress upon the enquirer. If some clear-headed student of plant roots- and name roots alike could be persuaded to take up the subject seriously, and to bend his intelligence to work up good English names for some of the newer plants which find their way from foreign lands year by year into our English gardens, it would not only confer a boon upon all who are inter- ested in plants, but also, by popularising their- study, serve m no small degree the cause, of science. Let the point be emphasised that, where good English names exist, they should always in ordinary speech be used in preference to the botanical term, which has its own inter- national, scientific, and even commercial value, but is foreign and out of place in an English garden. And where they do not exist, then let an honest efi'ort supply the want, with one stipulation — that the name be patiently thought out, until it becomes as terse and descriptive as refined English and good common-sense can make it. AMERICAN TREES IN ENGLAND. Mes. Dandeidge', in writing about the American Birches in your issue of the 28th ult. (page 67), enquires why these trees are not more frequently grouped together among evergreens. She fears that Betula lutea is little known in England. These statements raise an interesting point. We have been over the greater part of these islands in search of trees, and the fewness of deciduous Ameri- can trees is remarkable, i.e., those whose home is in the Eastern United States. Nearly all the deciduous trees of New England, Canada, Virginia, (fee, were planted in great quantity in England in the first half of the nineteenth century, before the rage for conifers became acute ; yet specimens of most species are not to be found. Here- and there is a Nyssa, a Sassafras, and three species or so of the Atlantic States Oaks are common enough, also Liquidambar, Silver Maple, Black Wal- nut, and Tulip trees. But where are the others ? They have evidently died early, and never have grown up to be trees of any size. There is not, so far as we know, a single specimen of Quercus alba or Platanus occi- dentalis 20 feet high in these countries, and American Birches are exceedingly rare. Evi- dently the want of summer sun to ripen the wood prevents many American trees from growing in England. However, perhaps some of the many species that were planted may survive in places that we hare not visited ; '-82 TEE GARDEN. February 11, 1905 and as it is of great interest to know what trees will succeed— by learning first wliat trees have succeeded— the writer will be much obliged if specimens of the rarer American trees, with particulars of their height and girth, be sent to him. Specimens are necessary, as in many cases people are cherishing as White Oaks the French Quercus Toza, and Platanus acerifolia as P. occi- dentalis, and so on. Instances of American Birches, Maples, Oaks, etc., would be very welcome to hear of, and in a forthcoming book by Mr. Ehves and myself they would be duly recorded. Kew. Augustine Henry. P.S. — Has anyone a large American Beech or a big Butternut? PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. FEBRUARY. Annual Flowers. A FIRST PRIZE of Four Guineas, a second prize of Two Guineas, a third prize of One Guinea, and a I fourth prize of Half-a-Guinea are offered for the best answers to the following set of questions. This compe- tition is open to all under gardeners, whether employed in private or public gardens or in nurseries. Head gardeners where not more than five men are kept may compete. This competition remains open until February 28. Answers must be addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, London, and marked " Competition." QUESTIONS. I. — Name the best twelve varieties of tall, branching Stocks that are both free in growth for garden use, and that give the greatest quantity of long- stemmed blooms for cutting. II. — Name the best .six annual Asters that are also both free in growth for garden use, and that give the greatest quantity of long-stemmed blooms for cutting. III. — Name six Sweet Peas the best for form ; that is to say, with the wings outspread and rounded, not hooded and pointed at the top, also giving their colour. IV. — Name the best annuals, hardy or half- hardy, for massing, not less than 18 inches in height. V. — Which do you consider the most beautiful pure blue-flowered hardy annual (Sweet Peas excluded) ? VI. — Name the best six hardy annuals to grow for cut flowers (Stocks and Asters excluded). VII.— Describe the best uses for hardy and half-hardy climbing annuals. VIII. — If you had to plant a shady border with annuals, name the six kinds you would use. IX. — If you were restricted to hardy annuals belonging to one natural order, say which order you would select, and give the names of the best species and varieties of hardy annuals contained in it. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. February 14. — Royal Horticultural Society's Annual Meeting, 3 p.m. ; Meeting of the Com- mittees, 12 noon ; Horticultural Club Annual Meeting, Hotel Windsor, 5 p.m. ; Annual Dinner, 6 p.m. February 28. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting ; Redhill, Reigate, and District Gar- deners' Society's meeting. A coloured plate of a new hardy berried shrub, Cotoueaster angustifolia, will be given with The (iARDEN next week. Photographs of Hollies.— The Editor of The Gardes will be grateful for photographs showing Hollies planted in beautiful ways or specimens of varieties. The beauty of the Holly as an evergreen shrub has yet to be realised by planters and makers of gardens, and it is hoped to bring its various uses before readers of The Garden in April, which is the best month for planting. Royal Horticultural Society. — Exhibitors are reminded that the shows in the Royal Horticultural Hall will close at .5 p.m. in future for the months of January, February, November, and December, and at t! p.m. during the rest of the year. This regulation, which is recorded in the new " Arrangements for 190.5," just issued, will come into force at the next show — the 14th inst. — when the annual meeting will also be held. The council have just arranged to hold a summer show in the grounds of Chelsea Hospital on July 11, 12, and 13, 190.5. The schedule for this show and for the autumn Rose, Fruit, and Vegetable Shows will be issued in about six weeks' time. The Crystal Palace Rose show has been definitely fixed for Saturday, July 8. Schedules can be obtained from Mr. G. Castle- ton, Superintendent Gardener, Crystal Palace, S.E. Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution. — We are reminded that the Liverpool Auxiliary of the above intend holding their annual social gathering and smoking concert on Saturday, February 11 (to-day), at the Bear's Paw, Lord Street, Liverpool. The committee have secured artistes that they hope will fully maintain the pleasure hitherto afforded. Mr. R. Le Doux will occupy the chair, when it is hoped he will be well supported, so that a good balance may be handed over to the funds of the institu- tion. Mr. R. G. Waterman, Woolton, Liverpool, is the hon. secretary, and he will be pleased to give any information that may be desired. Rhododendron Pink Pearl and other varieties. — I noticed in The GATinEN of the 7th ult. (page 5) an illustration of the Rhododendron Pink Pearl, growing in the garden of Mr. H. M. Arderne, South Africa. This plant, according to the writer, is the largest in the world, and as he gets his information from a good authority (Mr. John Waterer) I have no reason to doubt the statement. I must say I am rather surprised that there are not more blooms, for I can only count ten in the photo- graph, which is not extraordinary, as the plant is G feet in height and 5 feet in width, but perhaps they are not all depicted in the photo- graph. 1 have in the gardens here, of which I am in charge, a plant of Pink Pearl 5 feet 0 inches in height and 4 feet G inches in width. It carries this year thirty flowering buds. This plant was bought from Messrs. Waterer and Sons in the autumn of 1898, and it has flowered each year since. I must say I am surprised at the quantity of common Rhododendrons grown in most gardens when there are such good varieties to be bought at reasonable prices, and which occupy no more space than common ones. I would advise all lovers of good hardy plants to try Pink Pearl, Cynthia, Duchess of Connaught, Mrs. W. Agnew, Kate Waterer, Michael Waterer, Frederick Waterer, Helen Waterer, Joseph Whitworth, Baron Schroder, Bruce FinJley, Mme. Carvallo, Lady Eleanor Cathcart, Mrs. John Clutton, Duleep Singh, Duchess of Edinburgh, Sir Humphrey de Trafford, F. B. Heyea, J. H. Agnew, Mrs. Russell Sturgis, Princess Hortense, Old Port, Everestianum, Grand Arab, George Hardy, Fastuosum fl.-pl., J. Marshall Brooks, Sappho, Mrs. Holford, Doncaster, Viscount Powerscourt, and a host of others. — Charles Linger, The Gardem, Heyscroft, Wesl Didibury, Manclieater. Seed Potatoes for the United States.— We are informed that a large order for seed Potatoes has been received from the United States Government by Mr. A. Findlay, Mairsland, Auchtermuchty, Fife. The varieties are, to a large extent, the newer ones recently put upon the market, and include Eldorado, Empress Queen, Northern Star, and several others not generally cultivated in the States. It is understood that these are to be distributed among a number of agriculturists and experi- mental stations in the United States, for the purpose of being cultivated under the supervision of the Board of Agriculture, with a view to testing their productiveness and general qualities. A complaint about the Gar- deners' Orphan Fund.— The voting paper for the annual election in connexion with the Gardeners' Orphan Fund is to hand, and, in company with many subscribers, I am surprised to find that in no less than nine cases, making eighteen candidates, have two members of one family been nominated. If there is no rule against this, the committee have naturally a perfect right to use their own discretion in the matter, and with confidence in the committee one is quite willing to concede that all are most deserving cases, at the same time many of us think it is not quite the right thing to do. With, as in the Gardeners' Benevolent, an ever- increasing number of applicants it is probably time that a rule should be enforced "that only one member of a family should be deriving benefit from the fund at the same time," or something to that effect. Knowing that our two grand institutions have always been warmly supported in The Garden, I should be glad if you will allow this particular matter to be venti- lated in your columns that we may get opinions from different quarters. As a subscriber from the beginning and as one who has taken on several occasions a personal interest in the election of candidates, I may say that my opinion is quite in the direction above indicated. — E. BURRELL. British Gardeners' Association Gardeners who wish to become members of the association, but who are in doubt as to any point, are invited to communicate with one or other of the following gardeners, if in or near their district ; they are either secretaries of branches of the association, or take an active part in its promotion : A. 0. Bartlett, Pencarrow Gardens, near Bodmin ; W. G. Begbie, Stanford Hall Gardens, Loughborough ; D. Bliss, Superinten- dent of Parks, Swansea ; A. J. G. Chalice, The Nurseries, Plympton ; E. C. Creek, Westerfield House Gardens, Ipswich ; .J. Coutts, Killerton Gardens, Exeter ; W. H. Divers, Belvoir Castle Gardens, near Grantham ; A. Gaut, 01, Belle Vue Road, Leeds ; C. G. Girdham, Avondale, Cecil Road, Hale, Altrincham ; W. Hall, Mow- bray Park, Sunderland ; S. Heaton, 30, Hill View Road, Oxford ; J. D. Jones, (i, Acacia Road, Bournville, Birmingham ; A. Kime, West- hill Gardens, Yarmouth, Isle of Wight ; J. W. Mallinson, Longwathby, R. S.O. , Cumberland ; J. Milburn, Victoria Park, Bath ; H. A. Petti- grew, St. Pagans, Cardiff; C. S. Ritchie, Benellen Towers Gardens, Bournemouth ; W. Seaman, Margery Hall Gardens, Reigate ; and J, Udale, 2, Ombersley Road, Droitwich. February 11, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 83 Annual meeting of the Royal Hoptieultupal Society.— The next show of this society will be held on Tuesday, the 14th inst., when there will doubtless be a large «ntr}', as the one hundred and first annual meeting of the society will be held during the afternoon of the same day, when the report of the council for 1904 will be presented, and the president, vice-president, the treasurer, and the secretary will be elected for the ensuing year, together with three members of council. New Apple Lord Stradbpoke.— From Henham Grardens, Wangford, Suffolk, Mr. T.Simpson writes: "Would you kindly state that the name of the Apple that received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society on January 3, under the name of Fenn's Wonder, has been changed to Lord Stradbroke, and we are sending it out as such." Apples Cornish Gilliflo'wep and Roundway Magnum Bonum.— I was much interested in the remarks of "A. D." in Thb Garden of December ,3, and of Mr. C. Page on January 7. The quality of the former is grand ; but I have found it such a shy bearer either as a standard on the Crab or as a bush or cordon on the Paradise stock, that I have been compelled to reduce the number of trees to make room for more reliable croppers. Cordon trees have given the best results ; but they require very careful pruning. It seems to give much better results in the West and in its native county than here in the Midlands. I have found Roundway Magnum Bonum excellent in every way, a free cropper and good grower, and the fruit of fine flavour. No doubt its appearance is against it, as even when well-coloured it is dull. I find it much appreciated here as a culinary Apple ; it can be grown very large, much too large for dessert. — F. J., Droitwich. Hapdy Cyclamens.— An illustration of a pretty group of these charming little flowers appeared in The Garden of January 21, page 37. Owing to a confusion of synonyms it is there called C. repandum, which name is incorrect, as this is a spring-flowering species, whilst the writer of the notes states that the subject of the illustration is an autumn- flowering plant. The illustration undoubtedly represents a colony of 0. neapolitanura. The nomenclature of this genus is somewhat confusing, most of the various species having a long list of synonyms, and in some cases the same name has been applied to several species. The name hederiefolium has been freqently used, and amongst others has been applied to both C. neapolitanura and C. repandum, hence the confusion which arises from the use of that synonym. A short description of the two species may be of interest. C. nea- politanura (C. hederjefolium) is a native of Italy and Corsica, and flowers in autumn, beginning to bloom in ordinary seasons about the end of August. The beautifully marbled leaves are large and pointed, and appear with or soon after the flowers, and last into late spring. The colour of the flowers varies from crimson to white. C. repandum (C. hederffifolium) is a spring-flowering species, and is not so hardy and free-flowering in the open as the above. It is a native of Southern Europe, plentiful in Central Italy and Corsica. The leaves are toothed and angular, marbled with white above, purplish beneath ; produced in April and May with the pale rose- coloured flowers, which are spotted with purple at the base of each petal. A full account of the genus with all synonyms is given in The Garden of March 12, 1898. Prizes fop railway station gaPdens. — The directors of the Glasgow and South- Western Railway have intimated that it is their intention to increase the sum of money offered as prizes for the best kept station gardens on their line from £50 per annum to £100. There will now be thirty prizes ; these are six of £6 each, eight of £4 each, six of £3 each, four of £2 each, and six of £1 each. The directors are gratified with the efforts made by some of the station-masters on the system, and they hope that this alteration will induce others to enter the competition. The Glasgow and South- western Railway, although not of great length, serves an important district, now more than ever frequented by tourists, and these appreciate a well-kept station, brightened with flowers arranged in a tasteful manner, while regular travellers often take great interest in the station gardens. Phyllanthus pulehep (Reidia glaucescens, IWiq.).— The genus Phyl- lanthus comprises upwards of 400 species, which are chiefly confined to the tropics, but ainong this large number few of the species are of any horticultural value. P. pulcher, a native of Malay, is, however, an extremely pretty and interesting plant, which forms a small neat bush, and adds variety to a collection of stove or warm greenhouse plants. Its slender branches are furnished with small elliptical pea green leaves about half an inch long, which are arranged PHrLLANTHUS PULCHER (REIDIA GLAUCESCENS). {The photograph was take)i in the Physic Gardens, Cht'tsea.) alternately in a two-ranked manner, so as to give the slender branches very much the appearance of an ordinary pinnate leaf. Upon these slender branches, in the axils of the leaves, the neatly fringed pinkish flowers are produced either singly or in small clusters. They are on slender pedicels an inch or more long, and hang down, giving the plant a very graceful appearance. This and about a dozen other species were formerly placed in the separate genus Reidia, the chief difference being that the calyx of the sterile flowers consisted of four instead of five sepals, and the stamens being two instead of three as in Phyllanthus proper. The plant is easily propagated from cuttings taken in early spring, inserted in sandy soil and placed over bottom-heat ; given the ordinary treatment of stove plants good decorative plants can be grown in a few months. The section of Phyl- ; lanthus, known as Xylophylla, chiefly West j Indian shrubs, is of interest, because the plants comprised have flattened leaf-like small branches j (Phylloclades) upon the margins of which the flowers are produced in the axils of very minute leaves. The ordinary functions of the foliage leaf are carried on by these leaf-like flattened branches. — W. Hales, Physic Gardens, Cheliea. A plea fOP the biPdS.— Daring hard, frosty weather I make a practice of feeding the birds by throwing among the fruit tree plots all specked and half-rotten Apples as they go bad in the fruit room. This has a tendency to tame such very useful birds as starlings, thrushes, and blackbirds, which birds amply repay the gardener later in the season by devouring slugs and other insects that are a great annoyance when the various seedlings are making their appearance above ground. I am a firm believer in keeping these useful birds in and about the garden, as I am perfectly sure they do a great deal more good than harm. Many shoot these birds " because they eat so much fruit ; " but we can always preserve with netting what we do not want them to devour. I am pleased to say my employers are very fond of birds. A very old, useless Apple tree in the garden, with two holes in the trunk, in which two pairs of starlings annually nest and rear their young, is a great treasure to them on this account. The only bird I have a little ill-feeling against is our beautiful bullfinch when he nips out the fruit-buds of our various fruit and flowering trees. On the bush fruit I use the patent webber and the black thread webbing, which I find checks their ravages by becoming entangled in their wings, and con- sequently making them ver)' shy of again approaching the trees. — F. Clipstonb, Dinrjley, ilarket Harhorough. StoKesia eyanea.— Mr. J. Cornhill has recently directed the attention of your readers to the beauty and value of this autumn-flowering plant. There are, at least, two forms of it, one flowering in August, or about this period, the other in November. In my opinion, and I think Mr. Cornhill favours a similar view, the later flowering variety is the more valuable, by reason of the scarcity of its colour quite late in the year. The plant attains some 2J feet high or so, and in this way is well suited to the conservatory among other plants. Those of your readers who are interested in blue flowers may like to know that one of the best ways of increasing this plant is by root cuttings, and that the time for inserting them is the present. Many plants that are reproduced by their roots in this way show a certain tendency thereto along the line of the larger roots. The Stokesia, however, does not do this, its roots are quite smooth and devoid of those excrescences suggestive of groivth, and as the leaf tuft is in a conglomerate mass at the summit of the root stock division is less easy. At the same time if a good-sized plant is lifted and the root detached and cut up into lengths of an inch or so, it is easy to get a score or even fifty plants for next autumn from a single plant of to-day. Stand the roots erect around the interior of a well-drained 5-inch pot, the tip of the root just seen at the rim, employing sand or very sandy soil about the roots. Placed in the greenhouse new growth will appear in a few weeks. — E Jenkins. The Glastontaupy Thopn.— This, the earliest of all the Thorns, is now bearing expanded flowers. It is an early variety of the common Hawthorn, and is known by the name of CrataBgus oxyacantha precox. The quaint legend con- cerning it is that .loseph of Arimathaea ended his wanderings at the spot where now the ruins of Glastonbury Abbey stand and stuck his Thorn staff, brought from far distant Palestine, into the ground, where it took root and grew into a tree. This tree was said to open its flowers invariably on Christmas Day, which in old limes was January 6. The alteration of Christmas to December 25 was much resented by certain of the populace, and numbers flocked to Glastonbury 84 THE GARDEN. (February 11,'190&. towards the end of the year to ascertain which date the Thorn would observe. Tradition relates that December 25 passed with the Thorn's buds still dormant, but that on January 6 the first flower unclosed. This answer by their oracle fully satisfied the wavering minds of numbers, and in consequence many communities refused to recognise December 25 as Christmas Day, but kept it, as of yore, on .January 6. It is said that in the reign of Queen Elizabeth the girth of the Glastonbury Thorn equalled that of a man's body. In the south of England this Thorn often flowers as early as November. The foliage is, to a cer- tain extent, retained until the early spring, and trees may sometimes be seen bearing leaves, flowers, and fruit at the same time. It usually produces a second crop of blossoms concurrently with the common Hawthorn. The second flower- ing is succeeded by fruit, which rarely, if ever, follows the early crop of bloom. — .S. W. F. Calceolaria Buptaidgei. — This Cal ceolaria, a hybrid between C. deflexa and C. Pavoni, which we received two years ago from Dublin in exchange for C. integrifolia, has done well in South Devon, and bids fair to be almost as hardy as the latter species. It has spent one winter unprotected in the open, and has not been harmed by the frost we have already experienced this year. A week ago I cut a fine flower-spray nearly 1 foot in length and several inches across, set with numbers of its large, pale yellow blos- soms. Its blooming period is here very different to that of C. integrifolia, which is at its best in July, whereas C. Burbidgei rarely commences to flower before the end of September, and is at its best in October and November. Last year, in November, I saw a large plant trained against a wall in the Terrace Garden at Mount Edgcumbe in full flower.— S. W. F. The Aloe as a national flower.— We have received from Port Elizabeth, South Africa, a booklet written by Dr. Ensor, about the Aloe, for the purpose of urging the suitability of this as the national flower of South Africa. In the preface Dr. Ensor says : " The selection of the flower, which shall be the emblem flower of South Africa, has for some years been the subject of discussion, and I would venture to express the opinion that it is time the choice was made." With the object of helping to the selection of an indigenous flower which has so many qualities to commend it the author has written his booklet. The National Potato Society.— The annual report just issued states, among other things, that " the first year's work of the National Potato Society is a record of unexampled success in the history of special societies. Founded in December, 1903, it secured within less than ten months a membership of nearly 2,000, composed of about 300 individual and some 1,500 affiliated members; established upwards of twenty trial stations in various parts of Great Britain ; issued gratis a useful pamphlet on Potato disease ; held special conferences in London, Lincolnshire, and Edinburgh ; paid personal visits, through its secretary, to about thirty farms and experimental stations in England and Scotland ; founded a special com- mittee for Potato synonyms ; and organised and successfully carried through a gigantic show of Potatoes at the Crystal Palace in October, 1904. The society will keep constantly before it the duty of guarding trade interests. The financial position of the society is sound ; it has a small balance to its credit." Chrysanthemum Tuxedo.— This Chrysanthemum (recently alluded to in The Gabdbn as a new variety) supplies another instance of a plant being distributed and grown for many years before its merits are fully recog- nised. Instead of being new, it is, as Chrysan- themums go, quite old, though its raiser and date of introduction I am unable to give. It is, I believe, an American variety, sent over when the new forms from across the Atlantic were eagerly looked for. This Chrysanthemum was first brought to my notice by an article in The Gabde-n' for April 15, 1893, and in a few years it was recognised as a market kind, but to-day it occupies, I should say, a higher position than it has ever done before. Its clear, decided, and at the same time fashionable colour, is all in its favour as a market flower, and for late blooming it stands out in its way unrivalled. Other instances exist of plants now well known having been distributed a long time before their merits were fully recognised. Pelargonium F. V. Raspail is a good instance of this, as it was sent out by the raiser, M. Lemoine of Nancy, in the spring of 187S, but it was nearly ten years later before it came prominently forward. The bedding variety Paul Crampell, which has asserted itself so strongly within the last two years, is also a comparatively old kind. — T. A winter - flowering Clematis (Clematis calyeina).— The interesting features about this species are its evergreen leaves and early flowering period. Among other Clematises it is easily recognised in winter, for it is the only hardy species to retain its leaves, and it is rarely between December and February that a plant can be found out of bloom. According to Loudon it was first brought to this country in 1596. In its home in the Balearic Islands it is said to grow to the tops of tall trees, and, in fact, smother them, but about London it is seldom more than 12 feet or so in height. The leaves are deep green and glossy, the flowers pendulous, greenish white, with purple marks on the inside of the sepals, and borne from the leaf-axils. They differ in size to some consider- able extent, some being only IJ inches across, others upwards of 2 inches. Like many other early-flowering shrubs, it looks more at home in some cosy corner or against a wall than it does in the open ground. About London it grows well, but is more at home in counties such as Devon and Cornwall. In some gardens it is known as C. balearica.— W. Dallimore. National Sweet Pea Society.— The fifth exhibition of this society will be held in the Royal Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster, on July 4. In the annual report just issued we read : " In completing its fourth year the society finds itself in a substantially stronger position in every respect than in any previous season of its comparatively brief life- history. The committee can record increased membership and materially increased subscrip- tions, and is delighted to be able to describe the last year as one of unqualified success in all directions. With a view to ensuring that the flowers shall be seen by the greatest possible number of people interested in Sweet Peas, it has been decided to hold the 1905 exhibition at the Hall of Horticulture, Vincent Square, on July 4. The financial position of the society is better than it has ever been before." Aubrietia "Winter Gem.— This is a new seedling Aubrietia which I raised some years ago. It commences to bloom in the middle of January, and a plant about 1 foot square had on the 14th ult. upwards of sixty small purple flowers on it. It was blooming notwithstanding the fact that this garden faces due north, and on the date already referred to there was a snow-drift at the top of the garden upwards of 5 feet in depth. Aubrietias in mild weather send out a few flowers in winter, but this seedling is covered with blossom at present, so X think it promises to be a true hardy midwinter bloomer. I would be glad to hear of any other novelties of this sort, as I am much interested in the subject. — Walter Smyth, Holi/wood, County Down. The Shamrock Pea.— This pretty little Himalayan plant (Parochetus communis), of which the English name is Shamrock Pea, is a delightful thing in the garden from October onward. The leaves much resemble those of a Clover or Wood Sorrel, and the Pea-shaped flowers, pale blue in colour, are borne in pro- fusion during the late autumn and early winter. In the closing week of November I saw a large space of rock garden in Cornwall covered with this plant, which was then flowering freely. Should frost occur the expanded flowers are killed, but as soon as genial weather returns a fresh supply is soon produced. Though not absolutely hardy, it is never injured during the winter in the south-%vest, and is readily increased by division or seed. In light soil in a steep rockery it is seen at its best, as it rambles over the stones and the flowers are brought near to the eye, while it roots everywhere from its creeping stems. It is an old inhabitant of our gardens, having been introduced nearly a hundred years ago. — S. W. F. New Apple Parentage.— Under this title "A. D. " speaks very disparagingly of Peasgood's Nonsuch Apple. He says that for quality it is worthless. I think many will be found to differ from him, for it is very similar to the old favourite Blenheim Orange, but it is a better cropper, and a larger Apple. It has a similar granular flesh, which many people like very much. In my garden I have every Apple of the best quality, and while I admit that Cox'a Orange Pippin is our best flavoured variety, I still contend that Peasgood's Nonsuch is a good Apple, and not to be despised ; in fact, many people like it very much. — John Pope. TREES AND SHRUBS. CKYPTOMERIA ELEGANS. WHAT a pity this conifer does not make a better show after twelve years' growth than it does. Hundreds have been planted here, and not one can be called a decent specimen after it reaches 10 feet high. The inside portions die off so much as to entirely disfigure the tree. Here the tint of its foliage in the autumn ia so pleasing that hundreds are yearly grown for winter effect. Stocky little trees from 2 feet to 4 feet high have a charming winter effect in the beds and borders in a mass. Cuttings strike so readily in a cold frame in September that a stock of serviceable plants are easily obtained, and even when they are 1 foot high they colour charmingly and deserve extended cultivation. Bishop's Wa/tkam. E. M. TREES OF UPRIGHT GROWTH. Trees of upright growth can be made to play an important part in the garden, for, whether used singly or in groups, their stiff, upright character forms a distinct feature among other trees of freer habit. The Lombardy Poplar is a familiar example of this class of tree. For some positions these stiff, upright trees, are much better fitted than round-headed trees would be, and they are certainly worth planting more largely than is the case at present. For street planting some of the varieties are well adapted, for, as they are naturally slim and of compact habit, they require little or no pruning to keep them within bounds ; while many trees that are planted in streets, especially in thoroughfares that are not very wide, have to be cut hard back to keep them within bounds, and they lose all natural beauty. On looking through a list of trees it is found that there are many sorts which answer to this description, both deciduous and evergreen being included, and of this number attention is drawn below to some of the most noteworthy. The evergreen section is limited to conifers, and of this section some of the most striking are as follows : Cui'iiESSns. — Many of the kinds in this genua assume a columnar habit when young and lose it as they approach maturity. For the garden the upright growing varieties of C lawsoniana will be found useful. Some of the best are Alumi, erecta, erecta viridis, e. v. argentea, Fraseri, and stricta. Cupressus thyoides, "the White Cedar" February 11, 1905.] THE GARDEN. «5 of the Eastern United States, forms a perfect column of greenery when young. Of this tliere are varieties with variegated and glaucous leaves. In the colder parts of the country it would not be advisable to plant this species. Of the Retinospora section of Cupressus there is a fastigiate variety of C. obtusa known as erecta viridia, while several other varieties can be kept in a formal shape with a little pruning. When young Thuya occidentalis and T. gigantea are of columnar habit, but lose it in later life. LiBocEDRUs DEcnRRENS is One of the most striking of all the evergreens, rising slim and straight to a considerable height, and forming a column of dark green foliage. Among the Ybws we have the "Irish Yew" (Taxus baccata var. fastigiata) and its golden variety, both of which are excellent. The Junipers have representatives in Juniperus coramunus var. fastigiata, which makes a small, neat column, and young plants of J. virginiana and J. chinensis. For a position where a dwarf fastigiate evergreen is required Cephalotaxus pedunculata var. fastigiata will be found a suitable plant. Among deciduous trees we find a fairly wide selection, some useful ones being Acer (Maple) Lobelii, a tall growing species from Southern Italy ; Acer platanoides var. columnare, ^Esculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) var. pyramid- alis, Crataegus (Hawthorn) monogyna var. striota, an upright habited varietv of commanding appear- ance; Carpinus Betulus (Hornbeam) var. pyramid- alis, Caetanea sativa (Sweet Chestnut) var. pyramidalis, Praxinus excelsior (Ash) var. stricta, Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip tree) var. fasti- giata,'Populu9 alba (white Poplar) var. pyramid- alis, Populus nigra (black Poplar) var. pyramid- alis, Prunus Padus (Bird Cherry) var. stricta, Pyrus Ringo var. fastigiata bifera, P. pinnatifida var. fastigiata, P. Aucuparia var. fastigiata, Querous pedunculata (Oak) var. columnaris, Q. p. var. fastigiata, and forms of fastigiata known as cucuUata, excelsa, Grangei, variegata and viridis, Robinia Pseudocacia (False Acacia) var. fasti- giata, Taxodium distichum (Deciduous Cypress) when young, Tilia (Lime) platyphyllos var. pyra- midalis, Ulmus campestris (Elm) var. pyra- midalis, U. c. var. sarniensis, the "Jersey Elm," U. glabra var. cornubiensis, the "Cornish Elm," U. montana var. fastigiata, and U. m. var. aurea. This selection will be found to contain all the most distinct sorts, though the list could be lengthened to some extent by those who required a full collection. W. Dallimore. BERBEErS JAPONICA. This is one of the finest of the pinnate-leaved Barberries, and is well worth growing either for its large evergreen leaves or yellow flowers. It is found in both China and Japan, and forms an open clump of atiif, upright branches, 5 feet or 6 feet high, terminated with heads of handsome deep green, leathery leaves, made up of seven or nine leaflets, which are large, rounded at the base, and terminated at the apex with a strong spine, several other spines being found on the margins. The stems when broken through are bright yellow in colour. The flowers are yellow, and borne in large, terminal panicles during January and February, and are followed by dark purple or black fruits. For grouping on the outskirts of a shrubbery it is an excellent plant, but as it is very impatient of root injury, it should be placed in a permanent position when quite young, and not disturbed afterwards. If, however, it is found necessary to transplant an established specimen, care should be taken to secure a good ball of soil about the roots. The , best time to do the work is October or April. W. D. cally ruined because not pruned and allowed to grow wild, so that indi- viduality and form are absolutely lost ! Bad as IS the result by which what should be a pleasing shrubbery and garden ornament becomes a thicket, even that may be regarded as less offen- sive to good taste than is the far too prevalent fashion of clipping all shrubs over with shears, so that every one is made to resemble a balloon, the true character of the individual shrubs being entirely destroyed. It is a practice that cannot be too strongly denounced as a gross violation of good taste. In the correct pruning of shrubs the operator should showsome regard to their natural habits and forms, whilst the pruning^ should be in accordance with growth ; it should not less be con- cerned with the preserva- tion of what is each par- ticular shrub's form or outline. Apart from the many distinctions in leafage, colour, nature of wood, and divergence of bloom, each shrub more or less shows natural form — and, in that respect, variation — that is speci- ally pleasing. No man, however expert he may be with the pruning knife, is fitted to act as a pruner of shrubs until he has learnt the natural growth and contour of each i branches, growing on an evidently artificial mound shrub. Then pruning must have special con- | on a flat lawn. Some of the branches were leaf- sideration for the blooming season. The pruner j less and dying, and there was general evidence of who outs away ruthlessly the long, stout growths j decrease of vigour. As the owner of the garden of the previous year made by Mock Oranges, for had only lately come into possession, he was instance, is destroying all prospect of a flower i unable to inform me if the Magnolia had been display. These long growths are intended j originally planted on the top of the mound or . 'i^ "^ ^^ av -.ii^flH W^i ^^ *'" THE NEW SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUM HONEYSUCKLE. Note the [florets, which are quite Honeysuckle-like in form.) PRUNING EVERGREEN SHRUBS. As the winter passes away the necessity for shrub pruning presents itself. How many fine shrubs, both evergreen and deciduous, have been praoti- speoially to produce a garland of flowers. The pruner cuts them away because they offend his taste for uniformity. So many other beautiful flowering shrubs are in the same case. Their proper pruning season is so soon as their bloom is over, but just then, because it is midsummer, no one thinks of performing it. Yet, were it then done, new strong growths to bloom the next away year would soon be produced. In the pruning of evergreens not only should a knife alone be used, but to keep the shrubs in moderate dimensions the pruner should occasionally, as necessity requires, cut hard in, removing branches which will hardly be missed, because other smaller ones will cover up the pruned branches. The chief art in shrub pruning lies in carefully concealing it, simply reducing dimensions, but well retaining natural form and character. Occasional hard pruning, admitting free branch growth for two or three years, is better for shrubs than a yearly peddling with a knife, as that is little better than shearing. A. D. THE YULAN (MAGNOLIA SPICUA) SEEDING. CON- I HAVE occasionally seen a seed-pod on Magnolias of the conspicua section, but never in any quantity until last year. In the late summer I ivas asked to visit a garden and report on a whether this had been piled up round the stem. I suggested that if the latter had been the case it might account for the ill-health of the tree, and recommended that the soil should be carefully moved in order to ascertain the position of the roots, and, if they were found, to be deeply buried, that the overlying earth should be taken Upon this advice being followed, it was found that the roots were but a few inches beneath the surface, and the mound was, there- fore, undisturbed. Later on seed-pods commenced to appear, and by November the tree was bearing quite a hundred of these, all that were opened containing fully-formed seeds. This seeding is probably the expiring effort of the tree. S. W. Fitzhereert. NEW PLANTS. NEW F SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUM HONEYSUCKLE. LOWERS of this new single Chry- santliemum have a striking resemblance to the Honeysuckle ; in fact, so much so that it is almost a facsimile. The many who admired it during the past season imme- Magnolia which appeared to be in bad health. 1 1 diately exclaimed, " What an appropriate found a large specimen of Magnolia conspicua, i name," and, strange to say, the odour it carries 24 feet in height and 25 yards in circumference of [ with it reminds one of the delightfully sweet- 86 THE GARDEN. February 11, 1905. smelling Honeysuckle. It is considered a charming variety, and will be sure to be a favourite with all where cut flowers are used. It is of the purest white, with a decided and effective yellow centre. The flowers last a long time when cut. STOVE &. GREENHOUSE. WORK IN AN AMATEUR'S GREEN- HOUSE. (Continued from page 73.) SOME of our winter troubles arise from overcrowding. There are so many things in the autumn for which house room must be found, and space, perhaps, is limited. " It is reall3' wiser to grow a few plants well," says some senten- tious adviser. So it is, as we all agree, but we go on hugging our treasures, and will not let one of them go. Overcrowding, all the same, is a very bad fault. Plants require free circula- tion of air about them, or another kind of growth not so welcome — mould — spreads at an astonishing rate where it once gets a footing. Every day throughout the winter there is work to be done in clearing away dead leaves and litter of all kinds. Greenhouses are of all sorts and sizes, heated and unheated, and situated, moreover, in widely ditfering aspects, and being so we must each find out for ourselves the capabilities of the one or more which may be at our own disposal. No general directions can exactly meet every case. But the ordinary structure in vogue — whether span-roofed or lean-to — has a heating apparatus which is more or less effective. The temptation, invariably, is to treat it as a hot-house in the winter and to keep the temperature too high, whereas the right principle to go upon is to use as little fire-heat as possible, keeping out frost, of course, but maintaining a fairly even tempera- ture of not more than 45°, with a rise to 50" in sunshine by day, and about 40" by night. This may be considered the maximum for ordinary plants, and a little below will do much less harm than if the thermometer be allowed to run up higher. On many winter days firing will be altogether unnecessary, but during a succession of damp, close days it is often advisable to put on a little fire to dry the air and to keep it moving ; but even in foggy weather the lights should be opened if only by a chink, though draught must carefully be avoided. It is not so much damp as stagnant moisture in the air that brings mould and that dire disaster damping off. Another debatable point at this time is the amount of watering to be done. It is safe to keep most things much dryer in winter than in spring and summer. Plants that are at rest, as many now are, require, as a rule, little or no water, though they must by no means be allowed to get dust-dry. Those that are growing need more or less according to their nature, a point which in each case must be studied. Arums, for example, grow and flower during winter and early spring. They are naturally bog plants, and may stand with advantage in a deep pan of water at all times, the dewdrop running of!' at the point of the leaf being a sign of good health. Acacias of all kinds — more of which ought to be found in the amateur's greenhouse — also like a good deal of moisture at the root ; but they must have free drainage, and will not stand the bog treatment, therefore they must be watered frequently. A good rule to observe all the year round is to water thoroughly and then wait until a fresh supply is needed. Giving a driblet every day brings the rootlets to the moist surface, while the ball of soil and principal roots remain dry. This is the secret of many a crippled plant. Cacti and other succulent plants require very little watering when they aie at rest. Once or twice during the winter is generally enough, and over- head drip — not an uncommon event in green- houses— is fatal to them, more especially to the globular Echinocacti. Almost all growing bulbs are thirsty subjects until they are passing out of flower. Tulips particularly and Lilies of the Valley often become "blind" simply from neglect in this matter. These are, doubtless, elementary points, but the object of these papers is to touch upon small difficulties as they arise in everyday work, and to call attention to seasonable details, as well as to some of the less common plants which are avail- able for the amateur's greenhouse. K. L. D. (To be continued.) STROBILANTHES DYERIANUS. Any stove plants flowering at the present season are sure of a welcome, and although the above is grown chiefly on account of its handsome foliage, its flowers are very interesting and of a most unusual colour. Cuttings inserted now and placed in the propagating case will quickly root. During the spring and summer the young plants may be grown in the ordinary way for their beautiful foliage, receiving an occasional pinching to keep them shapely. From September the}' 'should not be restricted, when they will soon cease growing and form flower-heads. The corollas, which are 1 inch to li inches long, vary in colour from mauve to purple, and have a slight perfume. A. C. Bartlett. PLUMBAGO ROSEA. This once popular stove-flowering plant is now rarely met with. Its bright rosy colour, neat appearance, and winter-flowering habit should ensure its popularity. The variety coccinea has larger and brighter flowers, and should also be included. As the plants pass out of flower they should have a short period of rest, giving less water, but it must not be totally withheld, and the plants should be placed in a slightly lower temperature. They should then be shaken out and repotted into convenient sizes, using well-drained pots, and as a compost good fibrous loam with plenty of sand and one- fifth of leaf-soil ; pot firmly. If possible the plants should be placed in a propagating case for a few days. As growth advances they may be graduallj' moved into a cool house for the summer, but a light position in the stove is necessary during the flowering period, and great care must be exercised in giving water. While the plants are growing it should be freely given. Propagation is most easily effected by division at the time of repotting. A. C. Baktt.ett. THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE SWEET VIOLET. M L' C H has been written about the Violet in The Garden, but, like the Rose, the interest in the plant is perennial, and a reference to its culture will be welcomed by many of your readers who may have a spare corner in their garden which they would like to devote to the growth of this sweet and universally-loved flower. Were it possible to take a census of the British lovers of flowers as to which they loved the most, the R.o.se and the Violet would, I think, undoubtedly head the list. In order to have the Violet in flower as long as possible a few plants should be planted in different positions with various aspects. For instance, in order to obtain the earliest flowers in autumn a batch of plants should be planted in a warm position at the foot of a south wall or in some other sheltered position with this aspect, and to secure a succession of flowers a few should be planted in sheltered places facing east, north, and west. Thus a supply of flowers will be secured from early autumn till late in spring. Violets must have a pure atmosphere, free from smoke and other impurities. Thus the Violet cannot be successfully grown in the immediate vicinity of London or other large towns. This is much to be regretted, as a plant or two of this sweet flower would be highly welcomed in the crowded little gardens or back yards of our great cities. Soil. The Violet is found growing in its wild state on warm and partially shaded banks. It prefers well drained and warm soil to that which is cold ; but in practice I have found the Violet most accommodating in this respect, and it succeeds wonderfully well in a great variety of soils, provided the land is well drained. But to grow it to perfection it must have good cultivation. On poor, gravelly, or sandy soil a liberal addition of well- decayed manure and leaf-soil should be added the previous winter before planting in spring. On heavier or more retentive land the manure may be dispensed with, but add as much of the leaf-soil as is available, especially to the land intended to grow the Neapolitan and all the double-flowered varieties. The best Violets I have ever seen were grown at the Royal Lodge Garden, Windsor Great Park, and they were grown in soil composed of three parts of leaf-mould collected in the park. Not to discourage those readers who may not have these commodities at hand the Violet may be grown with fair success in all ordinary garden soils. Propagation and Growth of the Plant The plant is easily propagated by runners or offsets, which the plant throws out much in the same way as the Strawberry plant does. The best time to make a start is in spring after the plant has done flowering. This will be towards the beginning or middle of April, and the best way to carry out the work I have found to be is to dig up the old plants and take the soil entirely away from the roots, and then select from the old plants the strongest of the runners (miniature plants really), those being preferred which have a few roots attached to their base ; but it is not absolutely necessary that they should have any roots at all at the time of planting, as roots will be formed immediately they are detached from the parent plant and have a separate existence. The larger and stronger the offsets are the better progress they will make after planting. It is the general practice to plant the young offsets out at once in the border or plot of ground they are intended to occupy during the summer ; but a better way, in my opinion, is to plant them thickly in pre- pared soil in a shady corner by themselves — say, in rows 10 inches apart and 4 inches apart in the row. They can be better looked after in this limited space by way of spraying and watering until they have formed new roots, which they will do in about a month's time, when they can be planted in their summer quarters, and where they willniakemuchfaster and better growth than they would have done had they been planted in this position as root- less runners. As mentioned before, the Violet loves partial shade, and therefore a sheltered position facing east should be selected in February 11, 1903.] THE GARDEN. 87 which to plant it whilst making its summer growth. Distances Apart to Plant. This will vary considerably, according to the varieties grown. The large single sorts require a much larger space than the double- flowered ones. The large-flowering varieties, such as the Princess of Wales, if planted in good soil, will develop into plants 18 inches across in one season, therefore 3 feet apart is none too much space to give them ; but in the ordinary way 2 feet apart is the proper distance between the rows and 15 inches between each plant in the row, but for the double - flowered varieties less space will suffice. These are of a smaller and more compact growth, therefore the rows for these should be 15 inches apart only, and the same distance between plant and plant in the row. (To be continued.) THE SNOWDROPS. {Continued from page 70.) Forms that appeared to me distinct and to possess some feature not readily found >in a broad planting of the type plant are : Var. Atkinsii. — A form of the Imperati group, flowering early in winter. It is a - slender yet tall Snowdrop, with flowers 1 inch long, the petals prettily crimped and marked with a heart-shaped blotch of green. A rare and beautiful Snowdrop. Var. Jlm-e-pleno. — The well-known double ■ Snowdrop. Tar. Imperati. — A strong-growing form, with erect leaves 1 inch broad, flowers above 1 inch long, the petals narrowed at the claw, broadly spoon-shaped at the middle. It is a bolder flower than G. nivalis, and altogether a better garden plant. Atkinsii and Melvillei are variations of this plant, the latter having a heavier and more globular flower. Var. lutescens has yellow colouring where the common Snowdrop has green. Var. octohrensis scarcely differs from the common Snowdrop, save in its season of flowering, which is late October or early November. It is variable, and may not flower till December in some seasons. Var. Rachala; is a slender Snowdrop, flowering the same season. Var. Redoutei is a slender form allied to caucasicus, with rather thin flowers. This plant, G. caucasicus, and G. plicatus are often confounded in garden nomenclature, a cir- cumstance mainljr due to collectors following different authorities when naming their finds. Var. 2Mculiforniis is an old variety. The inner petals are quite unspotted, and nearly equal to the outer in size. It hardly differs from G. nivalis in any other detail. Var. Scharlohi is a curious form, the outer petals of which are tipped with green, and the spathe is very long and divided to the base. Var. /)r(Bco,f (December) wa7\ .E'^sre (Novem- ber — December) differ in their flowering season only. Numerous ' colour breaks occur as chance seedlings. These retain their variation for a few years, but revert in time to the type. A change of soil, particularly that from a light soil to clay, will produce many yellow-tinted forms, and this is most marked in the case of the double Snowdrop and in G. Elwesi. G. Olgce from Greece I have not grown for comparison with others, bat in the notes taken at Kew years a^o it is described as " a narrow-petalled nivalis without green spots on the inner segments, the lobes rounded and nearly plain." I then gave it one x where three was the maximum. G. plicatus (the Crimean Snowdrop) is a very distinct Snowdrop. It has large bulbs like those of the Poet's Narcissus, and long, inflated flowers, with widely expanded petals, exceeding \\ inches in length, the inner ones very deeply cleft, heavily marked green bslow the thin white margin. It is very hardy and vigorous, and the last to bloom. It does not thrive so well in pans as the others, and it appears to do better in the eastern half of Britain than the western. The finest colony I have seen of this Crimean Snowdrop is in a Midlothian garden. Some of the flowers were 2 inches long, including the ovary. One would need to grow the bulbs for years to get such good results, although there is less difficulty in increasing the size of the flowers of G. plicatus than others, as the bulbs do not make offsets very freely, but attain to a great size individually. One may treat this Snowdrop like a Jonquil or Tenby Daffodil. Cultivation. It seems superfluous to describe the cul- tivation of Snowdrops, but the various species have a strong preference for certain soils and situations, and although it is scarcely necessary to give specialised treatment to a few dozen bulbs in a plant border, it will be found to make all the difference between disappointment and success in treating thousands, particularly in the matter of grass planting, for which the Snowdrop seems peculiarly fitted. One cannot fail with the common Snowdrop, for it will grow any- where if planted early enough, and the grass is not too rank. Its rarer forms I have never grown in grass, as they are not available in sufficient quantity to warrant so prodigal a use. G. Elwesi one can naturalise in grass if the soil is good and likely to dry out in late summer. This plant requires thorough ripen- ing, and newly-imported bulbs must be planted early. It appreciates full sunshine in all cases. Whittalli goes back in grass, Cassaba and unguiculatus thrive in it. Caucasicus requires the treatment of Elwes's Snowdrop — it likes a summer's baking. Cilicicus thrives under deciduous trees as it makes its leaf growth when the conditions in such places are most favourable, and the drier conditions in summer suit it. Latifolius and Ikarise thrive in a soft turf in full sun- shine, and if the turf is mossy, so that the growth of grasses is arrested, they will appre- ciate it the more, as their leaves can then make headway without being choked with undergrowth, and as both of them carry foliage late in the season there is less neces- sity to cut the grass and injure the leaves of the Snowdrops if the moss is aggressive. Byzantinus and plicatus I have found grow best in the vicinity of old buildings. They evidently appreciate lime in the soil, and these two species should be selected for soils overlying limestone, or those that are harsh and stony. A thorough ripening is good for both. Ikarise is the best common Snowdrop for pots ; there is no other quite so charming as this, nor so accommodating in cultural matters, and I find the flowers are exceptionally fine if old manure is placed over the drainage upon which the roots could feed. The Snowdrop Disease (Botrytis cinerea). This is a pest found on many plants, living and dead. It requires summary treatment when found infesting Snowdrops. The bulbs and the soil surrounding them should be burned forthwith, and any not affected sprayed with one of the many fungicides now on the market, and the soil about them dressed with kainit or Veltha. This latter, a good preparation for gardens, kainit for greater areas. If one grows the weakly varieties, and particularly the yellow forms of G. nivalis, for the interest they give, it is recommended that they be planted as _ far away from any broad planting of other kinds as the limits of the garden will allow. Geo. B. Mallett. THE TREATMENT OF FROSTED PLANTS. IT has been stated that, " on plants or other subjects unprotected, the action of frost is from the top downwards towards the earth, hence the value of, and safety fre- quentlj' afforded by, slight coverings that are non-conductors of heat, and, conse- quently, prevents its loss by radiation. The effects of frost on plant life is not always in pro- portion to its intensity, or the hardiness of the plant, under what may be termed natural con- ditions. A spell of mild weather frequently places vegetation in a growing and tender state, espe- cially in spring, when a sudden change to a few degrees of frost may cause more destruction than a great deal at another time when vegetation was more dormant. Frost acts most injuriously on anything wet, and is least destructive under the reverse conditions" (Nicholson's "Dictionary of Gardening"). We may, therefore, learn from the foregoing that moisture renders a plant susceptible of cold. It may be presumed most gardeners know this. If the air of the greenhouse be dry the plants within may be submitted to a temperature of 32° without injury, provided the return to a higher temperature be gradual. Frost penetrates in a alow and natural way, and the danger of the greatest injury arises when frost is suddenly dis- placed by heat, either from sunshine or artificially. Gradual changes from a lower to a higher tem- perature are scarcely felt ; but a plant passed at once from a hot-house to an open border is bound to suffer severely, if not killed outright, hence the importance of hardening off plants in a gradual manner. There are times when the most careful gardener finds himself overtaken by one of those sudden and sharp falls in temperature that happen in the early hours of the morning. Then the manage- ment of frozen plants is a matter of some im- portance, for though they cannot but be injured by such a visitation as frost, yet it is generally practicable to thaw them without the injury being very material. Syringing is sometimes recommended with tender subjects that have become frozen ; but, as has been pointed out by a high authority, it should be remembered that water, which is itself much above the freezing point, will, when applied, cause a sudden change to anything that is considerably lower. A prac- tice with many gardeners is to get the fire burning briskly so as to raise the temperature to 32°, at this juncture to sprinkle the plants freely with cold water, and continue this until they are raised above freezing point ; they are then thawed. No sunshine should be allowed to reach them for some time, and sheets of paper may be used as a temporary covering with advantage. 1 have known a case of a frame of several lights of Cinerarias being seized by frost in consequence of one of those sudden changes above alluded to. The frame was at once thickly covered with mats, and the plants kept perfectly secluded for two days, and at the expiration of that time the plants were found to have suffered only very slightly. 88 THE GARDEN. [February 11, 1905. In the case of plants in the open some are found to be much more susceptible to frost than others. The common Aucuba japnnica appears under 15'= or 16° of frost to be killed outright, and yet its recuperative powers are marvellous. There is no doubt that in the case of many plants their most vulnerable point is their roots ; the branches may be injured by frost, but if the roots can be preserved from it there will be fresh growths from them. P ■ It has been said that a soil in our climate is rarely frozen to a depth of more than 4 inches, and in extremely hard winters it does not penetrate more than 0 inches in light soils, and WALL GARDENING. THE M BEAUTY OF WALL GARDENING. ANY are the unsightly and featureless places that might be made beautiful by wall garden- ing, and more quickly than in wall- for, armed with a hammer and a bricklayer's cold chisel, he knocks out joints and corners of bricks (when a builder is not looking on) exactly where he wishes to have his ranges of plants. A well-built wall, seasoned and solidified by some years' standing, will bear a good deal of such knocking about. In chisel- ling out the holes the only thing that had better be avoided is making much of a cavity just under an upright joint ; nor is it ever needful, for even if one wishes to have a 10 inches in those that contain a greater "]r^^i^ [„ the more level garden. Indeed, excess of moisture. A mulch of some kind, such ^^jj gardening is not only extremely interest- any other way ; for the plants having their roots always . • cool seem to grow away quickly at once, and wngish range ol any one plant the plants will yet to be longer lived than their own brother f.'ose up, though planted in the first place a ' ■ ■ little way apart, while there is nothing against widening any upright joint or making it gape funnelwise either upward or down. a.H a mixture of half-rotted manure and leaves, . - , - „„a:„„ K„^ ,1. „„„„,„ j-,. • 1 u n .. cu 1 u J ing and soon rewarding, but it seems to Xot^re^^otSrmes'a^r; sTrvic'eXro' ^^"-^en the inventive fac^ulty ; for if one has . From March to May or just after they tection to them. Shrubs of a choice character once tasted its pleasures and mastered some ripen in the autumn, seeds are put in mixed can be protected by binding up their branches of the simpler ways of adapting it for use, with a little loamy earth, and if the clsf t or with straw. Bracken, or some such material ; the others are sure to present themselves, and a opening is an upright one, unwilling to retain leaves of Yuccas may be gathered up into a whole new region of discursive delights the mixture, a little stone is wedged in at the kind of cone, and strips of matting tied tightly round them. Newly- planted subjects suffer more than those which are well established in the soil ; it happens in the case of a very severe winter that nowly - planted Rose Btocks inautumn are killed out- right, because the frost pene- trates so readily to the roots. I remember a ease where a quan- tity of Rose stocks were delivered at a nursery on an evening when sharp frost was setting in. In- stead of laying them in by the heels in the usual way, they were dropped into a pond of water, and though the stems were ice bound for a few days scarcely one was lott when they were planted out The Garden recently gave an ' offers itself for the mental exploration of the excellent illustration of how the heads of horticulturally inventive. One after another, standard Ro3e8__can be protected against harm pleasant schemes come to mind, soon to be ANTIRRHINUMS, CAMPANULAS, AND OTHER FLOWERS IN A DRY WALL. from frost. The idea is capable of wide application, much harm is done to outdoor plants by means of late spring frosts, the sun shining upon them while the frosty rime is on the buds. One of my earliest recollections of the garden is when quite a little chap seeing my father syringing of a morning, before the sun could reach them, the buds and foliage of Tree Peonies, taking care that the temperature was just rising above freezing point. R. D. Theale Station Garden. — Mr. A. Treacher, the popular stationmasler, has again been awarded the special prize for the best garden on the Great Western Railway in the Reatling district during 1904, Having obtained this dis- tinction before, he was debarred from competing for it in 1903. fashioned, with careful design and such manual skill as may have been acquired, into such simple things of beauty and delight as this first flower-walled and then Vine- shaded pleasant pathway. Besides the wall gardening that may be designed and reared, there is also that which is waiting to be done in walls that are already in being. Some- times there is an old wall from whose joints the surface mortar has crumbled and fallen. But so good a chance is not for every garden, for often the wall that one would wish to make the home of many a lovely plant is of the plainest brick or stone, and the mortar joints are fairly sound. Still the ardent wall gardener is not to be daunted. bottom or even cemented in. For a plant of rather large growth, like Valerian (Cen- tranthus), a whole coping brick can be knocked off the top, and pro- bably quite a nice rooting place be made with the down ward - digging chisel, to be filled up with suitable soil. By some such means, and always thinking and trying and combining ideas, the plainest wall can in a couple of years be so pleasantly transformed that it is turned into a thing of flowery beauty. There is no wall with ex- posure so hot or so cold that has not a plant waiting for just the conditions that it has to offer, and there will be no well- directed attempt to convert mural ugliness into beauty whose result will not be an encouragement to go on and do still better. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. FONTIN'S LILY OF THE VALLEY. E have referred on a previous occasion to this beautiful variety of the flower of the woodland (Convallaria ma- jalis). It is unnecessary to describe the variety at length, as the illustration shows its dis- tinctness and beauty. The " bells," as the FOiNTlJN'S L w February 11, 1905,] THE GARDEN. 89 ., N '^ I IRIS DANFORDI^. individual flowers are popularly called, are large, very open, pure whits, and accompanied by bread, rich green foliage, whilst the flowers are as fragrant as any other form of the Lily of the Valley. We have now several distinct varieties of the Lily of the Valley — Berlin, Dutch, Victoria, and last, but not least important, Fontin's, which, though a somewhat recent acquisition, will probably be as largely grown as any in the future. IRIS DANFORDl^. This is one of the most beautiful of all the early Irises ; the bright yellow flowers with their quaint green markings at the base of the falls present a most distinct appearance. When established on the rockery with Iris bakeriana, Histrio, persica, reticulata, &c., and those of a similar nature, it forms a perfect picture in early spring. This species IS quite hardy, and is a native of Asia Minor. Though introduced, however, some ten or twelve years ago, it is rarely seen, but of late it has become more plentiful and easily procured ; it does best in a light, well-drained sunny position. It was first shown by Mr. R. Wallace of Colchester before the Royal Horticultural Society in 1891, when it received a first-class certificate. These early bulbous Irises are very easily grown in pots for conservatory decoration. The bulbs should be potted in early autumn in light rich soil, plunged in a cold frame, and introduced into a cool greenhouse early in the year. They soon come into flower, and do not want much fire-heat. After flowering replunge or plant them out if the weather is not too severe. THE WHITE LIGURIAN HAIR-BELL (CAMPANnLA ISOPHYI.LA ALBA). Of all the great Campanula family grown in pots none give more beautiful effacts than this white- flowered variety. A3 a trailing plant in a pot or window-box, when in full bloom, it has probably no equal, and, although seldom seen in true specimen form, yet can it be made to produce plants of quite remarkable dimensions. In the South Park district of Reigate there is an amateur grower with a couple or so of small greenhouses, and who produces annually the finest specimens I have ever seen. Under his method of culture they are usually at their best early in August. He has locally exhibited in broad pots plants 2 feet in depth and 20 inches broad, and literally smothered with flowers. But these exhibited the plant's natural habit of growth, and such as is ordinarily seen. His finest examples, however, are in pyramid form and in 10-inch pots. Being grown in good loam, well-decayed hot-bed manure, leaf-soil, and sand, strong growths break up from the roots. These are, as it were, caged in a funnel 6 inches over of stout mesh wire, that, placed over the plants and kept erect by small stakes, stand out of the pots .3 feet in height. In the greenhouse, and with only sun warmth, growth reaches the top of the funnel, the grower keeping the points of the shoots inside. When the top is reached side growth begins, and in a few weeks the wire funnel is almost hidden by the shoots, whilst growth is still continued on the top. I saw specimens of this character at the end of July last that were broad pyramids 4 feet in height, the pots being well draped, and the shoots covered with flowers. As such un- usual specimens were of purely amateur production it is evi- dent that some of that great section of gardeners can do work not always open to the profes- sional. Other amateurs may wish to do likewise. A. D. manure and one-half leaf-mould and loam. Sufficient room was left to the balls of earth when out, and this operation carefully so that the broken. The soil was around the balls, and fibrous receive the pots were turned was conducted very balls should not be then pressed lightly good watering given. Every evening, if rain had not fallen during the day, the plants were copiously syringed, and they responded so readily to their treatment that several attained a height of over 10 feet, and produced a fresh crop of blossoms daily for a period of over three months. S. W. FiTZHBREBBT. [There is no reason why those situated in less favoured districts than South Devon should not attempt the culture of this lovely climbing plant. It must, of course, be planted against a south wall so that it may have as much warmth anc* sunshine as possible. — Ed.] IPOM.^A. RUBRO- aERULEA. For those readers who may be induced by the illustration, on page 40, of this lovely climber in flower in the open in South Devon to embark upon its cul- ture I add a few detiils of the method adopted to induce vigorous growth. When the plants were about 2 feet in height and set with their first flower-buds the soil close to the wall was taken out to a depth of 8 inches and a width of 1 foot ; this was then filled in with a compost one-half well-rotted fontin's lilt of the VALLEY. 90 THE GARDEN. [February 11, 1905. GARDENING FOR B8GINN6RS. TRAINING WALL TREES (STONE FRUITS). —The number of walled gardens has much increased of late years, but in many the trees are very carelessly trained, especially in the villa garden, where the gardener has had no regular training. The best shape for stone fruits is the fan, or some modification of it, and anyone with a trained eye ought to be able to la}' the branches in at equal distances apart, leaving the centre of the trees slightly open to ensure the proper distribution of the sap. Under the usual haphazard system of training the branches rush up to the top of the wall, and the bottom is left bare. Horizontal Training. — As a rule, where the wall trees are well managed other departments of the garden are satisfactory, and in dealing with young trees, both fan and horizon- tal, the knife must be used to get a foundation. Afterwards only the unripe points will be removed, 80 fir, at least as regards fur- nishing the wall. There is nothing gained by over- crowding the branches. As the tree gets older crowded branches mean small foliage, weak buds, and a paucity of bios soms, which set badly. In the case of stone fruits it is well to lay in a young shoot if there is room, but do not crowd. (Jive the leaves fair play. Ai moat people know, in this system of train- ing the main stem of the tree ONE OF ascends verti- call}', with branches starting away at equal distances apart on each side, and, in order that the bottom of the wall may be well covered, the main stem is headed back annually to the point where the next pair of branches is required. It takes some time to furnish a wall in this wa}', but when well done it is as permanent as any- thing can be in a garden. The horizontal is generally used for Pears and Apples only. 1 have seen Peaches and Plums trained in this way, but if a branch dies there is a difficulty in filling he place. Palmelle-Verrier Training. — This is a combi- nation of the horizontal and vertical, and fills the wall more speedily than the horizontal. The first pair of branches are trained horizontally for 3 feet; the points are then trained vertically. The second pair of branches are taken out 2 feet, and then receive their vertical inclination. The third pair only have 1 foot to go before moving upwards vertically. This is all very simple, as SIMPLE HINTS. the branches all move in straight lines, and the wall is soon covered. The trees begin to bear quickly, as the mode of training tends to equalise the flow of sap. Cordon Fruit Treei. — This system of training is better adapted for Pears and Apples than stone fruits, as there is rather more knifework in- volved than is good for the latter, though there is no necessity for confining the trees to one or even two branches. In several instances I have seen Pear trees trained as four-branched cordons. Then, of course, it approaches the Palmetto style of training, which has alreadj' been referred to. For covering walls quickly with Pears and Apples two-branched cordons trained obliquely are very suitable, and cover the wall speedily, giving beauty where otherwise ugliness might present itself. Hard;/ Edging Plants for Flou-fr-htcU. — Euony- mus radicans variegatus when well established and regularly trimmed makes a verj' neat edging to a flower-bed, or it might be used instead of Box, though if the plants had to be purchased it would be rather expensive. But it is easily propagated from cuttings. The small-leaved Ivy esnwoodiana pegged down at first would do for a green-leaved edging, and there is a neat dark-leaved Ivy named purpurea which would be equally good as a per- manent edging. Outside Window Decoration. — If shrubs must be used for window decoration, the Euonymus family are the most effective. The little golden Retinosporas soon lose tone amid the smoke, and then look wretched. Their only recommenda- tion is cheapness, otherwise Wallflowers, Violas, Forget-me-nots, Daisies, S n o w- drops. Crocuses, Tulips, and Nar- cissi would be much more cheer- ful, especially if a few trailing Ivies and Peri- winkles were planted along the front. A pretty box ma}' be filled c heap 1}' with yellow Wall- flowers, with Forget- me -Dots along the front. THE MOST EEAUTIi'OL OF THE CLEMATISES (O. MONTANA Early Tomatoes. — For culture in pots, Cora at, Up-to-Date, and Early Ruby are good. For later plantiug in borders or wide troughs Freedom and Lawrenson's No. .3 are robust growers and ver}' heavy croppers. For weight of crops I have seen nothing equal to the last named ; though bright in colour it is a little uneven in shape, and there- fore not quite the sort for exhibition. Potatoes for Planting. — The value of selection in all cultivated plants — Potatoes not excepted — is very great. If, when digging Potatoes, sets are saved from the most prolific roots, we may hope to obtain a much heavier crop than is pos- sible when no selection is made, but the seeds saved indiscrimi- nately after the whole crop has been lifted. The question of Potato propagation has been much discussed in the gardening Press, and new methods have been advocated, but the wise man will, I think, con- tinue to select his sets in a rational manner, and in the case of early kinds choose tubers of medium size and plant them whole. E. H. Spring Propagation oj Bedding Plants. — Soft young cuttings strike best, therefore the plants from which cuttings are taken should be what the gardener terms warmed up to prepare a lot of soft yo^ng shoots — Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Verbena Miss Willmott, and others, though Verbenas, Petunias, and Begonias may be easily raised in quantity now from seed sown in sandy loam in heat. Young shoots of bedding Geraniums will strike freely either in pots or shallow boxes over a hot surface, such as a flue or hot-water pipes. The soil should be made firm before inserting the cuttings. CLEMATIS MONTANA. Perhaps no hardy clinjbing plant gives more satisfaction in the garden than this beautiful early summer-flowering Clematis. It grows with a vigour and flowers with a profusion that are surprising ; it will cover cottage walls, draping them with trails of flowers and greenery, or it will make beauty spots of old arbours, poles, pillars, and pergolas ; in fact, it may be planted with advantage in almost any position in the garden where climbers are wanted. This Clematis needs little pruning ; it is only necessary to thin I out the growths when they become crowded. February 11, 1905. J THE GARDEN. 91 GARDENING OF WEEK. THE I FLOWER GARDEN*. GLRDEN K.OSES are best when allowed to ramble at will, so that the outskirts of lawns or semi- wild positions are the most suitable for them, and if undulated ground is available so much the better; the more rugged the ground the more effective the display. What can compare inelegance and beauty, say, with the single Carmine Pillar Rose, a group of Ayrshires on a steep declivity and clambering up the branches of a neighbouring tree, some of the Noisettes on a mound, Kamblers here and there in bold masses and on an occasional tripod— suggestive of fountains of bloom— Rugosas beyond as a cover, and Sweet Briars in irregular clumps, while the depressions can be utilised for wichuraianas, Hybrid Teas, Chinas, York and Lancaster, and so on ? True, the blooming season of a few is of short duration, but they form a beautiful feature, while most flower freely over a long season. Undoubtedly they are worthy of extensive cultivation whether planted in combination or in separate groups of one class. Plant with no niggardly hand, always bearing in mind that a stray spray of bloom here and there is not effective. Plant also in well enriched soil, aiming to produce plenty of strong flowering growths. General Kkmarks.— Every preparation must be made without delay for seed-sowing in heat. Get under cover boxes, pans, pots, and crocks all perfectly clean and dry ; some wood moss or partly decomposed leaves forspreading over crocks and drainage. Soil— according to probable requirements— put through a coarse riddle. A good general compost for seeds is two parts rather sandy loara to one part of well-rooted leaf-mould. We save tlrie soil the Chrysanthemums were grown in for this purpose, lightened somewhat with leaf-mould, and find it excellent. For choicest seeds and those usually slow in germinating special composts should be provided. Submit it to a thorough baking to destroy worms and eggs and seeds of weeds. Having drained boxes, pans, and pots, and placed a layer of moss or other rough material over the crocks, fill with soil loosely level with the rims, give a smart tap and shake, and press the surface down evenly with a brick in the case of boxes and square pans, and with a smooth round board or the bottom of a suitable sized pot for round pans and pots. Give all a thorough soaking of water from a fine rose can, stand to drain before placing them upon each other in a convenient part of the potting shed ready for sowing whenever wanted. Most seeds require a slight covering of fine soil, but very minute ones. Begonias for instance, are better if not covered with either soil or sand. The Gardens, Tan-y-bivtck, X. Wale^. J. Roberts. INDOOR GARDEN. Greenhouse Trees and Shrubs.— Without the help of these for the decoration of the greenhouse during the opening months of the year there would be a somewhat dull period. In a house with only sufficient heat to keep out the frost they can be had in flower much earlier than outside. Many can be grown in pots year after year, while others are best if planted out for a year or two after forcing. The cooler they are grown the longer generally will they last without planting out. A very long list of names of suitable plants could be written. It will be sufficient here to mention a few of the choicest. Among Prunus P. japonica ti. albo pi. is one of the earliest— P. cerasifera var. atropurpurea, perhaps better known as P. Pissardi. This is worth growing for the foliage alone. P. persica var. magniflca, P. triloba, P. Cerasus Rhexii fl.-pl., and P. Pdeudo-cerasus James H. Veitch. Three good Pyrus are P. floribunda and var. atrosanguinea and P. spectabilis. Rhododendrons, of which the earliest to flower are R. prrecox and R. nobleanum. These are often injured by spring frosts outside. Magnolias are useful for cutting as well as greenhouse decoration— M. conspicua, M. soulangeana, and M. stellata (halleana). Wistaria chinensis and var. alba are general favourites. Forsythias naturally bloom early, thu3 requiring little heat to get them into flower. Spiraia arguta, S. Van Houttei, Deutzia gracilis, and Rhododendron sinense (Azalea mollis) are all well-known forcing plants. As useful foliage plants the varied colourings and forms of the young growths of Acers add beauty to the house. Fuchsias.— Cuttings rooted in autumn will now be ready for 5-inch or 6-inch pots. Use a compost of three parts fibrous loam and one of leaf-soil and well-decayed manure, adding a little sharp sand. Keep the plants near the glass in a warm house. Introduce old plants into heat. When breaking into leaf the younger plants can be shaken out and repotted. Large specimens will not require potting every year, top-dressing being sufficient. Frequent syringing will be necessary, especially on bright days. Bouvardias and Lantanas —About this date is a suitable time to cut back these plants and start them into growth. I prefer knocking out and repotting before starting into a size or two smaller pot than they flowered in last year, although it does not make much difference whether potting is done before or after starting. Hydrangeas.— A few of the hortensis varieties can now be placed in a temperature of about SO'^ to 55°. If properly pruned after flowering last year none will be necessary now. Pot on the cuttings rooted last autumn into 5-inch pots. Auriculas.— The present is a convenient time for over- hauling these plants. See that the drainage is in good order. Remove a little of the surface soil and top-dress, using a compost of flbrous loam and well-decayed manure. Give a good watering and place near the glass in a well- ventilated house. Offsets may be severed from the parent plants. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. A. Osborn. ORCHIDS. Aerides.— Among epiphytal Orchids that flower during the summer months there are few genera, when well cultivated, more beautiful than the Aeiides. The majiu'ity of these plants require the temperature of the East Indian house, and among them the following may be mentioned : A. afflne, A. houlletianum, A.suavissimum, A. odoratum, A. Fieldingii, A. savageanum, A. Larpentia;, A. Lobbii, A. quinquevulnerum, A. falcatum, A. maculosum, A. m. Schrbdera;, A. Lawrences;, and its yellow-tinted variety, A. L. sanderianum. A few species, as A. crispum, A. War- nerii, A. crassifolium, and A. lindleyanum thrive better if treated to a little less heat than the others. Unless a number of houses are at command, it is best to keep them in the warm house, placing them in the coolest position. The only two cool-growing kinds that I am acquainted with are A. japonicum and A. vandarum. Both thrive well in the Odontoglossuni house. As these plants will soon begin to send out fresh aerial I'oots, they should receive immediate attention as to cleaning, &c., espe- cially if there is any scale upon them. From the present time to the end of the month is a suitable season for examining the condition of the plants as regards the needs of repotting, &c. The young roots when they commence to grow are easily injured, turning black at the tips on the least bruise. Like many other Orchids, these Aerides should not be disturbed oftener than is necessary. Some of the plants are very apt during winter to lose some of their lower leaves often during foggy weather and during severe frosts. Only such plants and those which have insufficient pot room should be repotted. The orditiary flower-pot is preferable for these aerial-rooting Orchids, the plants being more easily managed and the roots less disturbed than when wooden baskets are used. When removing the plants first pick out all the old decayed moss and crocks, and, if any roots adhere to the sides of the pot, carefully loosen them with a thin-bladed knife. Generally so much of the stem should be removed that when the plant is placed in the new pot the lower leaves will be on a level with the rim. Place the plant in the centre of the pot, and stake sufficiently to hold it in an upright position. Put a few large crocks at t;he bottom; then replace as many of the lower roots as possible. Avoid cracking or breaking them, and work in among them clean picked sphagnum moss and crocks, about one-half of each. Fill to within half an inch of the rim, and finish off with living sphagnum. Any of the large fleshy roots that are long enough may be pegged down on the surface, and in time these will root into the moss. Plants that do not require repotting may have the old material carefully picked out and replaced with clean crocks and fresh living sphagnum. After repotting the plants require no more water for a time than is necessary to keep the sphagnum growing. These East Indian Orchids when growing like heat, especially plenty of sun-heat, but they must have air and moisture too. It is advisable to have the blinds and shading material put upon the house, so that the plants may be shaded during the hottest part of the day. If the plants are not strong or well rooted, it is advisable to pinch off any flower-spikes which appear and give the plants generous treatment throughout the growing season. Burford Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. FRUIT GARDEN. Early Muscat Grapes.— If these are confined to inside borders alone the latter must be made moist before the bunches come into flower, so that they will require no water till the berries are swelling. At this stage they may be given a thorough watering with liquid manure, at the same temperature as the house. Great care must be exercised during flowering in keeping the temperature of the house as equable as the outside conditions will permit. A night temperature of 65^ or 70^, according to the weather, will be suitable. The thermometer may rise 10'^ or 15'^ higher during the day, but guard against sudden changes, as this is fatal to a good " set." The bunches must be fertilised at midday by passing a rabbit's tail carefully over them. Encourage a moderately dry atmo- sphere, but do not let the surface of the borders become dust dry. The tyingdown of the shoots should be deferred, if possible, till the bunches have passed out of flower. Queen Pineapples.— Preparation should be made for the potting of the suckers which were rooted last summer. The compost should consist of loam of a rich friable nature, with the fine particles shaken out. Add A-inch bones at the rate of an S-inch potful to a barrowload of soil, with about two-thirds of that quantity of soot. If the soil is at all retentive charcoal broken up to a suitable size should be added. The compost should be thoroughly warmed before potting begins ; 10-inch or 12-inch size pots, according to the strength of the plant, will be suitable. See that the pots are well drained, and the potting should be done firmly. A hot-bed with a temperature of So"^ or 90'^ must be ready to receive the plants, and this should be elevated so that the plants get the full benefit of light. Now that the days are lengthening and the sun is gaining power, attention must be given to plants that require repotting, so that they may have full advantage of the coming season of growth. In regard to potting, the advice given above for the Queen suckers will be applicable here. The house should i e thoroTaghly cleansed, and a hot-bed as recommended must be made. The plants will require no water till the roots are entering the new soil. The syringe must, however, be freely used amongst the plants. Tomatoes.- If the winter-fruiting plants , " clean and healthy they may yet be encouraged to give a supply of fruit for some time to come. A top-dresaing of some rich material and occasional waterings with liquid manure will give them renewed vigour. Side growth may be encouraged by cutting away the leaves from the main stem. Fertilise the flowers at midday, and create a constant circulation of air. Plants which were raised last autumn are now ready for the final potting into 10-inch pots. The Tomato enjoys a rich rooting medium when conflned to pot culture. A suitable compost consists of three parts loam, one part horse manure from which rank gases have been allowed to escape by its being frequently turned, and a liberal sprinkling of old mortar rubble. Leave sufficient room when potting for a top-dressing when a goo-i set of fruit is secured. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. KITCHEN GARDEN. French Beans.— The wheel of time has once again brought round the season when winter vegetables uf the commoner kind, to most of us, become insipid, and our palates crave for something of a more delicate and appetising nature. How these delicacies are to be obtained becomes to the gardener a matter for earnest consideration. To meet this requirement I know of nothing equal to the climbing French Beans ; these I have grown for a number of years, and found them in every way superior to the ordinary dwarf kinds. They are more prolific, and delicious in flavour. In a forcing house, on a border and trellis 25 feet long, an abundant and constant supply can be maintained for six weeks at the very least. The method of growing them is as follows: Supposing the forcing house to be provided with bottom-heat, from 15 inches to 18 inches of prepared hot-bed material placed in the bed where the Beans are to be grown will make an excellent rooting medium. Cover the surface of the hot-bed with soil an inch deep, except where the Beans are to be sown, there the soil must be 4 inches deep, and in the form of a ridge near the trellis ; upon this ridge sow the Beans 6 inches apart and 1 inch deep. For training, strings must be fixed to the top and bottom wires, so that they will be parallel with the rafters of the house. When the Beans come through the soil small twigs may be used to give them support until they reach the strings, to which they will cling without further aid ; in a day temperature of 70* to 75"^ they will make rapid progress. Daily syringing must not be neglected, and when the Bean-pods have formed copious supplies of water will be required. Sutton's Epicure is my favourite variety for this purpose. Should Dwarf French Beans be preferred a sowing of Osborne's Forcing may also be made in clean 9-inch pots provided with ample drainage. Place a handful of partly decomposed leaves over the draining crocks. Make the pots three parts full of a light compost, equal parts of loam and leaf -soil, and sow from four to six seeds in each pot. Horse-radish.— The home of the Horse-radish is in the damp meadows of middle and south Europe. In Britain it is cultivated for the sake of its roots, the uses of which are well known. It delights in a moist soil, rich and deep. When a plantation is to be made a corner of the garden should be selected where it will not encroach beyond the space originally intended for it. A third of this allotment ought to be deeply dug and well manured every year to keep up a supply of thick and tender roots. It is pro- pagated by sets provided by cutting the tops or crowns of the roots 2 inches long ; these sets are laid in the bottom of a drill 12 inches deep and 1 foot apart every way ; while covering the sets tread the soil as little as possible. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's 'Isle, Kirkcudbright. THE FRUIT GARDEN. PEUNING PEACH TREES. ONCE the method of pruning the L Peach tree is properly under- stood, this work, important though it is, presents little difficulty. The chief thing to bear in mind is that the flowers, and therefore the fruits, are produced on the previous year's shoots. The grower, there- fore, should endeavour to have as many of these as possible in the tree. As it is of equal importance that the shoots must not be crowded, it will be seen that the only thing to do, so as to fill a limited space with the proper kind of growth, is to cut out the unsuitable ones. Generally speaking, when a Peach shoot has produced fruit it is useless and may be cut out, and one or more must be encouraged to tjiVe its place. The lowest 92 THE GARDEN. [February 11, 1905. SHOOTS IN' FLOWER OF PEACH TREE UNDER GLASS, SHOWING HOW FLOWERS ARE PRODUCED UPON SHOOTS OF THE PREVIOUS YEAR'S GROWTH. {Note the bottom shoot ; the past year's groivth is full of blossoms, some oj which will -produce fruits ; the point where the shoot that produced fruit last year was cut away can be clearly seen.) shoot in the accompanying illustration shows well how Peach trees are pruned. Suppose this shoot to have grown last year, 1904, and that it is in flower this year, 190.") ; it can clearly be seen where the shoot that bore fruit in 1904 was cut out to make room for the new one that is to fruit this j'ear, 1905. SimDarly, when this year's fruit is gathered, the shoot under notice will be cut away, and one of the shoots at its base (now quite small, yet plainly visible) trained in to take its place. Of course, it is not necessary to cut out every shoot when it has borne fruit ; there may be room enough for it and a new one too. If, however, there is room only for one, the old one must be removed and the new one retained. Opinions differ as to when the pruning should be done. Some advocate the removal of the shoots as soon as the fruit is gathered, while others w.%it until the spring. I have always found good results ensue from spring pruning. I think that it is not good practice to cut out the shoots when the tree is in active growth. I prefer to do this when growth is less active in early sprine l3isbu(Iding'the young growths of a Peach often puzz es the amateur. They are usually very freely produced, and most of them must be removed. When they are about 1 inch long or even less every other one may be rubbed off, taking care, however, to retain one or two suitably placed for training as new shoots. Select them as near the base of the old shoot as possible, and always le.ive the terminal one. In another week or ten days remove a few more, and then, in the course of another fortnight, say, finally thin them to the number required. It is not easy to say definitely how many should be left. Always retain one good one at the base, however, and the terminal shoot. If there is room for one or two more shoots, then allow young growths to develop towards the middle also, one on either side the old shoot. A. H. P. CANKER IN APPLES. Fortunate is the man whose Apple trees grow vigorously and present a clean, unbroken surface of bark from trunk to topmost branch, with no gaping wound caused by the canker fungus (Nectria ditissima). There are trees of this cha- racter, of course, and places where canker is unknown, but there are more instances in which growers are troubled by this all too common plague amongst Apples, and as yet we have no infallible cure for it nor a sure and certain means of prevention. The canker seems to Us its evil grip on certain varieties in preference to others, particularly if they are growing on a stiff and cold soil, and most people know Ribston Pippin, Lord SufHeld, Wellington, and others to be great sufferers, though even here it appears to be largely a question of soil, because in some favoured districts even the above varieties are compara- tively free from canker. It is very disappointing to spend time and money over the purchase and planting of trees, ■ watch them grow satisfactorily for a few years, 1 and then, when they should begin to return some- thing in the way of crop, see those well-known gaping wounds appear in the bark, which are often followed by the death of the branches. In certain instances no doubt growers are victims of circumstances in regard to canker. Do what they will, the trees suffer and Apple growing becomes a disappointing business, but there are hundreds of cases in which the growers them- selves are wholly or partly responsible for the trouble through not paying attention to the requirements of the trees in one way or another. It may be observed that Apples invariably canker when grown in soil that is cold and sour for the want of proper drainage, and to plant under these conditions is only courting failure. j It requires no magician's power to tell whether sous need draming or not, and, if such is the case, some means should be adopted for carrying away superfluous water before planting is done. Thin land, where the subsoil of stiff, retentive character is close to the surface, is not the best for Apples, and canker frequently asserts itself when the roots penetrate into this unkindly soil. Obviously the thing to do when it is desired to grow Apples under such conditions is to plant practically on the surface and devise every pos- sible means of feeding the fibres, thus preventing them from penetrating into the subsoil. In many cases no doubt the predominating cause of the canker trouble can be summed up in the one word — poverty. For some unexplained reason many people seem to have the idea that fruit trees want no manure, and will go on indefinitely with no other food than that which Nature provides in the soil. What a mistake it all is, and how the poor trees suffer through it ! There are hundreds and thousands of trees to-day, cankered and stunted, which would never have been in this unsatisfac- tory condition if only an occasional dressing of good animal manure had been spread over the roots when they needed some assistance to keep them in vigorous health. Where trees are grow- ing on land under cultivation artificial manures may be substituted for animal, and a mixture of four parts superphosphate and three parts kainit pricked into the surface soil over the roots at the rate of 4oz. to the square yard is good. Not much nitrogen is needed for healthy trees, but to encourage fresh growth in cankered specimens a top-dressing of nitrate of soda at the rate of 2oz. to the square yard over the spread of the roots in the spring is excellent. The neglect of apparently small things often results in bad attacks of canker, and a case came before my notice the other day. A man planted some young trees a few j-ears ago, and at the same time carefully staked them, but he did not consider the fact that the stems would swell, and recently, when it occurred to him to unfasten the ligatures, he found that the stems had rubbed against the stakes, and there were big canker wounds where the bark had been bruised. Often one seea the branches of trees rubbing each other until the bark is worn through, and there canker is safe to assert itself, yet by a little timely attention in removing shoots that rub each other the trouble might be averted. Again, the bark on newlj'-planted trees is sometimes gnawed by rabbits and hares, and the branches are damaged by horses and horned stock, and all for the want of proper staking and protection. Damage of the above kind is a sure and certain cause of canker. Lastly, American blight is a prolific means of introducing canker. The aphides are allowed to infest trees, and they suck the juices from the young shoots, which causes the bark to split open and warty swellings appear. The opening of the birk gives the opportunity for canker, which promptly sets in and completes the work of destruction begun by the woolly aphis. It may be seen, then, that the cause of canker can be traced to several sources, including unsuit- able soil, poverty for the want of manure, dis- position of the variety to canker, and injury to branches by insects, animals, and careless hand- ling. When a tree has been let go for years till it is nothing more or less than a mass of canker the chances of renovating it are not great, and some specimens are not worth the trouble, but the thing to do is to endeavour to prevent the evil b}' sound and thorough cultivation, and, if canker appears, promptly feed the trees to encourage healthy, vigorous growth. Something may also be done in the way of dressing the wounds, and I have known canker in its early stages to be completely mastered by scraping out the wounds with a blunt knife and dabbing in a little Stockholm tar with a painter's brush. Lastl}', I have seen badly cankered trees headed back and grafted with a vigorous growing variety like Bramley's Seedling, and the latter has infused such vitality into the stock that big, gaping February 11, 1905. THE GARDEN. 93 canker wounds have completely healed over. There is no magic way of either preventing or curing oanlier, and in some bad cases Apple growers are victims of circumstances and have claims to sympathy, but often its presence is due to neglect in one direction or another, and the canker trouble, generally speaking, would be far less serious if more attention were paid to the details of care and cultivation. G. H. H. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed hy correspondents. ) WILD FLOWERS IN SOUTH AFRICA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] SIR, — English readers, wrapped in fog and frozen with cold, may like a few notes from a land where flowers and sunshine are equally brilliant. In a little bro- chure a graceful writer, well known and esteemed here as an advocate for the claims of the Aloe, the emblem flower of South Africa, observes; "The finest specimens as regards colouring that I have seen were in a collection of blooms from Gamtoas River. Since the suggestion offered — now some few years ago — that the Aloe should be the emblem flower of South Africa, the cultivation of this interesting plant has been largely increased. There are few gardens without some specimens." A few notes of some of the more conspicuous indigenous flowers now in bloom in the immediate neighbourhood of Port Elizabeth maybe of interest to the numerous readers of The Garden, espe cially as the floral display has been much more abundant than for years past, owing to a more regular rainfall in this part of the colony. The Christmas flowers — Jasminum ofBoinale, with its, starry blooms, and the handsome Pavetta caffra — are making a brave show. Among the finest of the bulbous plants just now are grand specimens of Cyrtanthus obliquus and the bright scarlet C. spiralis. C. uniflorus, with its striped creamy blooms, is also very abundant. Rarely have the specimens of Erica cerinthoides — which has the widest range by far of the Heaths in South Africa — been so fine. Thanks to the plenteous rains the Orchids also are in much greater force than usual. Among the finest of these local specimens is Disa polygonoides, now met with in the sands to the north of Port Elizabeth, the chief trade route to the interior. The tall orange spikes of this Disa make it a most conspicuous object. Among other Orchids which are now in bloom in the sands — which are being fixed, with a great measure of success, to prevent their encroachment on the harbour — is the beautiful pink Satyrium, named aftar the late Mr. Hallack, a highly esteemed citizen of the town. Mr. Dwyer, the representative of the Crown Forest Department, prevents the destruction of these rare and beau- tiful plants, which grow in marshy localities in an inch or two of water. Another now just appearing is Disa lacera, which in a month or two will be most abundant. The lovely blue Nymphseas are very plentiful in the Baakens River, and the pure white spathes of Riohardia afrioana form a beautiful contrast with their dark green leaves. Watsonia angusta, with its striking scarlet spikes, met with in stony, exposed places, has been much finer than usual. Among the more conspicuous of the flowers of the season is Agapan- thus umbellatus, so familiar to people at home ; the white variety is rarely met with. Among plants in bloom of duller hues are the large chocolate- coloured bells of Pachycarpus grandiflorus, very novel and uncommon. Wm. Kemslby. Port Elizabeth, Christinas, 1904. japonica. As the fruit is never or very rarely seen in the North or in the Midlands, I thought the photograph might be interesting to your readers. The fruit is about the size of a small Apple, with a slight hollow at each end. It has a rather pleasant odour, but is not edible. School House, Oandle. C. Till. [We believe an excellent preserve can be made from the fruit. — Ed.] THE BLUE-FLOWERED COLEUS. [To THE Editor OP " The Garden."] Sir, — Your correspondent Mr. J. Mayne (page 34) has much to be thankful for in his favoured South Devon clime, for the terrible fog experienced in so many places about a week before Christmas has, at least in the London district, almost denuded the plants of this Coleus of leaves ; indeed, the amount of greasy soot deposited on the glass has, I think, never been surpassed, and a considerable amount of rubbing was necessary in order to remove it. That pretty winter- flowering Labiate Moschosma ripariuni lost both flowers and foliage ; Bouvardias were burnt up. JAPANESE QUINCE IN FRUIT. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — The fruits of the plant shown in the photo- graph are those of the common Cydonia (Pyrus) JAPANESE QUINCE (PYRDS JAPONICA) IN FRUIT. Crotons lost large quantities of leaves. Pelar- goniums of the various sections were reduced to nearly bare stems. Euphorbia fulgens stands with- out a leaf, and the socotrana hybrids of Begonia lost both flowers and buds. A great many Aoanthads have also suffered severely ; in fact, the majority of indoor plants show signs of injury. Both the expanded flowers and unopened buds of Orchids have either dropped or are quite burnt up, even Cypripediums, which resist fog better than most of their relatives. T. DAPHNE MEZEREUM GRANDI- FLORUM. [To the Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — It is a matter for surprise that such an enthusiastic plantsman as your correspondent Joseph Meehan (page 35) should be unacquainted with the autumn-flowering variety of the Meze- reon, for though uncommon it is fairly well known on this side of the Atlantic, and can be obtained from nurserymen who make a speciality of the choicer shrubs. The charm to many of novelty cannot in any way be claimed for this variety, as it was referred to by Loudon, over sixty years ago, in the following terms : " Habit spreading ; also with longer leaves than the species, and pro- ducing its flowers in autumn. A most desirable shrub, leing commonly covered with its gay pinkish blossoms from November to March." To lovers of the Mezereon, so valuable for its early blooming, this variety should commend itself, for when at its best comparatively few outdoor shrubs are in bloom. Compared with those of the type they are considerably larger, measuring sometimes nearly three-quarters of an inch across, while theyj are also of a richer purple. The pleasing fragrance, so pronounced in the case of the common Mezereon, is also possessed to an equal extent by this variety. Apart from the white, red, and autumn flowering forms of Daphne Mezereum, a double white variety was figured many years ago in The Garden, and it also occurs in the " Kew Hand List " ; but it must be regarded as exceedingly rare. H. P ■ [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — To supplement the note on this delightful spring-flowering shrub which appeared in The Garden of the 21st ult. , I may mention that I possess a large plant, which many years ago I found in the brushwood clothing one of the valleys above Montreux. It is evidently Daphne M. grandiflorum, for its flowers are larger and darker than those of the type, and begin to open early in November. Given good weather they keep on until the others commence to flower. That they vary greatly is shown by a weak and later one from the same valley, which has been growing beside this robust one. They evidently bear a severe cutting back, for a third Swiss seedling, aocidently beheaded in an autumn tidy- ing up, has quickly developed from a weakling into a sturdy bush. I find many seedlings come up naturally in my garden, so I have never had occasion to preserve and sow the berries. I was given some seedlings by a friend, and now they are large, symmetrical bushes about 5 feet high and 15 feet in circumference. My early form is on a north-east aspect, behind a high brick wall, but I cannot say if this has any effect on its precocious flowering. Riverston, Nenagh. T. H. PoE (Captain). OSTEOWSKIA MAGNIFICA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — It was a pleasure to read Sir Michael Foster's valuable letter on this splendid plant, which, as he says, is well deserving of its appellation magnifica. With Sir Michael's state- ment that " there can be no question about its being hardy," those who have investigated the condition of the plant in various localities in England will agree, for there are other cold districts besides Great Shelford where it remains in vigorous health. The hint that it should be kept dry at the root during the winter is particularly useful, for it is probably owing to neglect of this precaution that the majority of failures are due. Mr. Archer-Hind had in his garden for some years a fine specimen of the white variety of Ostrowskia over 5 feet in height, which I always looked for on approaching the house in the summer. In 1903 I missed it, and on enquiring the cause was told that the usual winter protection had been omitted. Last year this plant threw up a weak growth, so that in all probability it will, with adequate winter protection, regain its former proportions before long. I protect my plants with conical hand- lights, known in the trade as cap-glasses. These are placed over the plants as soon as the flower- stems have died down, and not shifted until growth appears in the spring, when they are tilted up until the plants are 6 inches in height, and then removed. With a mulch of leaf-mould and well-rotted manure and a fairly heavy spring and summer rainfall — last year we had 94 THE GARDEN. [February 11, 1905. about li inches in April, 4 inches in May, IJ inches in June, and ti inches in July— I have found no difficulty in adequate moisture, but I have never been able to obtain perfect seed, though Roraneya Coulteri, hard by, seeds freely. The soil in my garden is light and stony, but about 3 feet in depth, and where the Ostrowskias are growing it is liberally mixed with old mortar rubbish. The plants never attain a greater height than 5 feet, though I am informed that in Northamptonshire they grow to a height of 7 feet. I have the lavender and pure white forms, the largest flowers being 5 inches across, and lasting in water for a fortnight. The danger of transplantation, alluded to by Sir Michael Foster, is one of the greatest hindrances to the culture of Ostrowskia magnifica, for, no matter how carefully the roots may be lifted, and even if they be removed from the ground with- out breakage, a most difficult matter, they often refuse to make any subsequent sign of growth. A few years ago I lifted a plant with the greatest care and gave it to Mr. Archer-Hind, but from that day to this it has never appeared above ground. S. W. Fitzhereekt. Kingxmear, South Devon. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers. — The Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistatice, no matter lohat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the " ATUwers to Correspondents" column. All coimminica- lions should be clearly and concisely ^vritten on oiie side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The GARDEN, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Names of Plants. — 0. H. M. — The Narcissus is N. minimus, and the Cyclamen C. hedenv- folium. C. T. — Most probably Cypripedium barbatum ; impossible to say more definitely from leaf alone. Delia. — 1, Euonymus japoui- cus aureo variegatus ; '2, Calathea (Maranta) kerchoviana ; 3, Euonymus japonicus latifolius albus ; 4, Euonymus japonicus ovatus aureus ; 5, Selaginella cuspidata. Stirling. — It is im- possible to say with certainty from your vague description, but we think the Orchid is Oneidium dasytyle. The pseudo-bulbs are about H inches high, leaves 0 inches long ; the flowers are pro- duced in a slender raceme about 18 inches long. The sepals and petals are yellow and brown ; the conspicuous part of the flower is the large blackish crest on the lip, much resembling a bee. It grows best in a fairly cool house. Names or Frcits. — C. F. Ascot. — 1, Golden Nonpareil ; 2, Ribston Pippin (fine fruit) ; 3, Sugarloaf ; 4, Calville Rouge. G. E. F. — Rosemary Russet. Mackereth. — The Apple is Pickering's Seedling. Naturalising Cotpage Tulips and Anemone FULGENS (Poppy). — In many instances these are quite a success in grass, particularly on chalky soils and in very sandy loam. LiLiUM BuLEOCODiuM [E. R.). — We regret we do not know of any Lily bearing this name. Is not Narcissus Bulbocodium or Lilium bulbiferum the plant you seek ? Pollarding Treks (B. B.). — The best time to cut back or pollard deciduous trees is when they are dormant, hence no time should be lost now, as the sap will soon be active. Bulbs in Water (Poppy). — These cannot be grown with success or with any certainty of flowering another year. Some may recover if planted in good garden soil for two seasons, but as a rule they are not worth the trouble. Hardy Cyclamen troh Seeds (E. 7?.). — Yes, you can rear hardy Cyclamen from seeds, sowing in pans of light sandy soil forthwith, and placing under the shelter of a fence or in a cold frame. They are slow of germination, and equally slow in growing to flowering size, but are none the less certain of growth. Some shade is desir- able in the early stages of growth. Messrs. Thompson and Morgan of Ipswich supply seeds of these. Bones into Bone-meal (An Amateur). — We cannot learn of any contrivance for grinding bones in a small way suitable for an amateur ; indeed, owing to the powerful mill that would be required for the purpose, it would sure to be an expensive item. At the same time, bones roughly broken with a hammer may be dug into the ground, and thus form an effective and lasting fertiliser. House Facing North (F. P.). — Hardy Ferns would be the best thing to grow in your house if you are unable to heat it. Lapageria, a climber with beautiful pendent wax-like flowers, rose and white, would probably succeed if planted in good soil and trained over the roof, providing you can keep frost out of the house. You might arrange a small rockery, planting it with some of the many beautiful sorts of hardy Ferns. If the other part of the garden you refer to faces north and you want something large, why not plant it with Japanese Anemones if you want a flowering plant. If you are content with evergreens, plant Berberia, Aucuba, and Ivy ; if deciduous trees, the Forsythia. Shrubs for Bank (A. W. Leatham). — Several shrubs will live and thrive fairly well on the bank, but the ground must first be prepared for them. A bank of soil that has become covered with grass will nearly always be found dry a little way below the surface, so that your bank would be all the better if deeply trenched before being planted, working in some well-decayed manure about a foot or so from the surface. Evergreen shrubs that would suit your purpose are Hollies in variety, Yew, Box, Phillyrea media and P. vilmoriniana, and Olearia Haastii, a dwarf evergreen with white scented flotvers. The common Savin (Juniperus Sabina) and the Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aeuleatus) are dwarf evergreens that you will also find useful. Of deciduous flowering shrubs : White and yellow Brooms ; iJeutzia crenata, white ; Philadelphus coronarius, white ; Spiraea Thunbergi, white ; Colutea arborescens, yellow ; Ribes sanguineum, red; Spinea Anthony Waterer, rosy crimson; Weigela Eva Rathke, crimson ; and Lilacs in variety can be recommended. Any steep parts of the bank could be clothed with St. John's Wort and Periwinkle. Thorns, Laburnums, and Pyrus floribunda are small flowering trees that can be used if required. All these plants thrive in your neighbourhood, and will also grow almost anywhere, so that we have every confidence in recommending them to you. Cucumbers in Greenhouse (W. H. AI.). — There is no reason why you should not grow Cucumbers successfully in your greenhouse, but as you have no heat except that given by a small stove we should not advise your starting before the middle of March. Be careful to obtain plump seeds, discard any that are soft and appa- rently empty. Sow them singly in small pots filled with leaf-soil and loam. Put a few crocks at the bottom for drainage. Cover the pots with a piece of glass until the seeds germinate. Keep the seedlings within 12 inches of the roof so that they may grow sturdily. When they are about 3 inches or so high they may be planted out in their permanent quarters ; they may either be grown in large pots or in a soil upon a hot-bed of manure and leaves. Stable litter and leaves should be mixed together in equal quantity to make the hot-bed. This should be so high that I when the plants are put out they will be, say, not more than 2 feet from the roof glass. Take care that the heat of the bed has subsided some- what before planting. Thrust in a stick and leave it there a few minutes, if, when withdrawn, it is nicely warm planting may be done ; if the stick is hot wait a few days longer. Place a small mound of light soil upon the hot-bed, and opening it out with the hand after it has become warmed, remove the seedling from its pot and insert it, carefully covering up the roots. As the roots reach the outside of the mound of soil more must be added. The roots must be kept covered, if this is persisted with finally the whole surface of the bed will be covered with soil. Always add warm, never cold, soil. Keep the atmosphere warm and moist, it should never fall below 60° Fahr. , and should be kept as regular as possible; during sunny weather it will, of course, rise to SO" or more. This will do no harm if air is given at the same time. Never allow the foliage to become very crowded, otherwise the plants will suffer. It is a good plan to have the trellis upon which the plants are trained well covered with foliage before allowing the plants to fruit, they will bear all the better later. The plants ought not to need shading except for a short time after planting, and perhaps when they are getting old. When the young plants are well established pinch out the ends of the shoots, so as to make them produce lateral shoots ; these will bear flowers, and eventually fruits. After the plants have borne fruit for a lime cut out some of the old wood to make room for new. The fruits are borne upon new growths. Never let the plants suffer for want of water, they need a lot when growing strongly. Give manure water when they are in fruit. Plants for North Border (Qiiomodo). — If you plant Daffodils now 30U will get some blooms this spring, although they will not be very good, but next year they will be quite satisfactory. We have planted them as late as this, although, of course, they ought to be put in in September or October to give good results the year following On your border facing north you may plant Japanese Anemones, Lilies of sorts (L. candidum, L. croceum, L. aureum, L. Marta- gon, L. umbellatum, and others), Violas (Pansies), Violets, Lilies of the Valley, Ferns, Solomon's Seal, Myosotis, Primroses, Forsythia suspensa (shrub), Scillas, Snowdrops, and Fritillaries. Potting Composts (J. A. Rider). — You need only grow a plant in soil made by pulling into pieces, about the size of a pigeon's egg, the turf from a pasture and another in ordinary garden soil to see which is more to the plant's liking. By turfy loam is meant the combination with the loam of grassy matter, such as pasture grass and roots, all of which, being of a fibrous nature, prevents the soil becoming close and hard, and as it decays also becomes plant food. Loam is a term that may be said to be applied to ordinary garden soil ; it is used to distinguish this from leaf-soil, peat, &c. There are many sorts of loam, but that known as turfy or fibrous is best for ordinary purposes for the reasons stated. Besides containing more plant food, it is in better mechanical condition, and is not so liable to become sour and distasteful to plant roots as ordinary garden soil. Leaf-mould consists of decayed tree leaves. The best is obtained from leaves of the Beech, Oak, Elm, Lime, Plane, Horse Chestnut, and Sycamore. The two latter do not make good leaf-soil for potting purposes. The best way to obtain good leaf -soil is to collect the leaves and put them, while damp, in a heap to decay. Occasionally turn and mix them to ensure decay ; at least a j'ear is necessary to obtain good leaf-soil. It is a good plan to dust soot over the heap when turning it ; this clears it of insects. -Febrdary 11, 1905. J THE GARDEN. 95 Moving Holly Bushes {Healhtrcroft). — April is the best time to move Hollies, but yours should be moved. in September with comparatively little risk if the work is carefully carried out. First of all a trench should bedug around theplants of about 2 feet from the main stem. In doing this any roots you encounter should be cut cleanly off. It is probable that you will not find many roots, but the distance they travel from the main stem varies according to age, condition of the soil, and other matters. The soil taken out will, of course, be again returned, and trod firmly in position. Bearing this in mind it will only be neoessar}' to make the trench sufficiently wide for working purposes. When about to remove the plants again take out the soil to a width of 18 inches. Then tunnel underneath, tie some stout canvas or mats around the mass of soil to keep it in place, put some pieces of wood around to prevent the ties cutting into it ; then by making an incline to the bottom of the hole at the side the plant is to be taken out, it may by means of planks and rollers be drawn therefrom and removed to its new position. If to be taken some distance a low trolley is very helpful. In planting great care must be taken to work the soil firmly all round, and after it is finished a good wateriuo; will be beneficial. Should the weather be hot and drj', which sometimes happens in early autumn, frequent syringing is of great help, as it tends to keep the foliage fresh till the roots are again active. Maidenhair Fern (/. McNair). — An unusual question, tor generally the object is to impart a deep rich tint to the fronds of Maidenhair. In order to tone down the dark green the plants should have as much light and, at this season, sunshine as possible ; indeed, at all times shading has a tendency to darken the colour, and so have artificial stimulants, particularly soot water. If you have been in the habit of using this by all means discontinue it. Attention to this matter, and exposure to light and moderate sunshine, is the only thing we can suggest to make your Ferns of a pale green. Renovating a Garden (Percivalli). — There is not the least doubt that the Poplars and other trees mentioned are largely responsible for the present state of things. Unfortunately, you do not say whether they are in your own garden or in an adjoining one, and if the former whether you may or may not cut them. If you can do as you like in the matter you could top them in such a way as to reduce the extensive shade from them. If these trees are in an adjoining garden you are at liberty to remove any branches that overhang your garden without the consent of your neighbour, though, as a matter of courtesy, you should inform him. Equally detrimental to the garden and its occupants is the endless array of root fibres that extend from the trees. At 4 feet from the trunk open out a trench 2 feet wide and not less than 2J feet deep, for the express purpose of severing all the roots that extend into the garden. Remove all you possibly can, cutting them clean away with spade or axe while the trench is open. In this way those left in the ground will perish. This done, trench deeply the two side borders. Do it in this way : Dig out across the border a trench 2 feet wide and 2 feet deep at one end, and transfer the whole of the soil so removed to the opposite end of the Same border. Then prepare to trench — that is, deeply dig — the border throughout. This will best be done in trench sections of the same dimen- sions as the one first opened. In trench Nc. 2 the top soil is dug out 1 foot deep and cast into the bottom of trench No. 1, the lower portion of the soil in No. 2 trench to be dug out and made to form the surface soil for trench No. 1. By continuing to treat the border thus in sections you will have "trenched" it well. A good dressing of lime and well-decayed manure will be necessary. Guano is no good at present. For the garden named some four loads will be required, the manure to be worked into the border as the trenching is done, burying the manure about 1 foot from the surface. In such a poor soil as you describe you will not err in giving a good dressing of manure also on the surface of the soil when the digging is finished. By getting the trenching done at once, and giving also the surface dressing of manure, the latter could remain to enrich the soil until early April, when the manure could be lightly forked in. Soot or lime could be given as a top-dressing in March, and by these means bring the soil into a better condition. Any refuse could be burnt, and the ashes from this fire, which are valuable and rich in ammonia and other things, could be strewn on the beds or borders. Any rough material could be deeply buried in the trench that you open at the western end to cut ofi' the tree roots, and in this way much useless rubbish may be quickly disposed of. Lightly fork over the soil in April to break it up more finely preparatory to planting. Tuberous Begonias would do well in the centre beds. Asters, Stocks, Calceolarias, and Mignonette in the more shady places, while Tufted Panaies and summer-flowering Chrysanthemums would do well on the border facing south. ExACUM macranthum {A. H. Rydon).— This is not difficult to strike from cuttings, but as seeds are frequently procurable and grow readily, increase by means of cuttings is not often resorted to. Though a native of Ceylon the temperature of the coolest part of the stove or of the inter- mediate house is the most suitable for it, and cuttings will root in a close propagating house kept at the same temperature. Failing this an ordinary propagating case in the stove where such things as Crotons are struck may be used with equal success, but care should be taken directly the cuttings are rooted to remove them to a slightly cooler part of the house, otherwise they will become weak, and are also liable to be attacked by thrips. A mixture of equal parts of loam, peat or leaf-mould, and silver sand, all passed through a sieve with a quarter or one- third of an inch mesh forms a very suitable compost for the cuttings, which must be put into clean, well-drained pots. Taking the cuttings is as simple a matter as dealing with those of a Fuchsia, the young growing shoots being chosen for the purpose, but those of medium vigour are preferable to the very strong ones. A length of 2J inches to 3 inches is very suitable. Cut just below a joint, and remove the bottom pair of leaves. The pots must, after crocking, be prepared by filling them with the above-mentioned soil pressed down moderately firm, and into this the cuttings may be dibbled. The middle of February is a good time to put in the cuttings, which will root in three weeks or a month if carefully attended to for water and a little air given each morning for an hour or two. Shading will be necessary. Flower Farming {H. E.). — We do not know of any book dealing with this subject. Success is achieved by practical knowledge of many and varying crops, untiring energy and business ability, and a fair amount of capital. You give us no idea as to whether you intend to grow open-air crops, or this in conjunction with glass artificially heated. We may say at once, however, that we think there is but little chance of a successful result for the open-air cultivation alone. Competition is very severe. The better plan, for a couple of years at least, would be to engage yourself to one or more of the large growers for market, either paying a small premium or giving your services free or for a nominal wage. If you could obtain a footing in two places — a year in each — you should gain considerable insight into the business. If you advertise for a partnership many would probably gladly avail themselves of the opportunity, but you must gain practical knowledge first. At the end of a probationary period such as we name, you should have gained a good insight into the praitioil fcide of the question. Your employer, too, with whom a clear understanding should exist from the outset, may occasionally grant you the privilege of visiting the markets he is in touch with, and in this way the method of dealing with other crops and their value could be obtained. V'ou should then be in a position to judge for yourself .as to what to do. And we are well assured that in after years, if not now, you will see the value of this preparatory period. Having made up your mind to start for yourself your best plan would be to obtain the assistance of a practical man as general foreman, make it worth his while by wages and commission on sales, &c. , to take an interest in your affairs, and if you have confidence in his ability let him feel the respect and confidence you repose in him. If you start with a leasehold farm of ten or twenty acres, one acre of this at least should be of glass, or some- what in this proportion if on a smaller scale. You may probably have other questions to put to us, and if so we shall be pleased to assist you so far as we are able. Chinese Cabbace (F. vl/.). _We have no knowledge of a Chinese Cabbage. We have looked carefully through the best authority on these plants published— Vilraorin's "Vegetable Kingdom "—and can find no reference to a Chines e species. If, as you say, you find plants raised from Chinese seed bolt to flower, no matter at what season raised, the natural inference is that our climate does not suit it, hence its reversion to an annual. Much would, of course, depend on what part of China may be its habitat. It may need more warmth than our climate furnishes, or, on the other hand, our weather may be too mild. We have varieties of the Cabbage, especially the Colewort section, which always bolt to flower if sown in the autumn, but heart in well if sown in the spring or summer. Could you spare a little seed and send it for trial to the Superintendent, Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, Wisley, Ripley, Surrey, telling him what it is, and asking that it may be grown, and, if possible, identified ? Begonia Rex [A.H. %rfon).— Seeds of Begonia Rex should be treated exactly like those of the tuberous Begonias, except that being stove plants they require more heat. The pots or pans pre- pared for the reception of the seed must be clean and well drained, and filled to within half an inch of the rim with a mixture of one part loam, two parts leaf mould, and one part silver sand, the whole being well rubbed and incor- porated together, at the same lime picking out any lumps or stones. Then sift a little of this compost through a fine sieve and put on one side. In filling the pots or pans the ordinary mixture should be pressed down moderately firm and made level, then finish off the surface with about a quarter of an inch of the finely sifted soil. Then water thoroughly in order to moisten the soil, let it drain for half an hour or so, then sow the seed evenly and thinly thereon, giving just a slight dusting of the fine soil afterwards, but not enough to cover the seeds altogether. Then set the pots or pans in a favourable position in the warm house, and cover each with a square of glass, over which paper must be laid whenever the sun shines. The glasses must be taken off every morning to examine the condition of the soil, which should be kept in an even state of moisture. From seed sown in the middle of February the seedlings will appear in a fortnight or three weeks, when the glasses should be tilted, and in a day or two removed altogether. Shading from direct sunshine is necessary. When the first rough leaf— that is, the first beyond the seed leaves — is developed, the young plants should be pricked off singly^ using the same kind of soil as before. Again a little of it should be finely sifted for the top, as the delicate roots are less liable to be injured than if there are any lumps in the upper layer. 96 THE GARDEN. [February 11, 1905. Daisies on Lawn [F. C. C). — Nothing better than spudding them out or using an old knife, as then the root cornea too. Violet Leaves Damaged {F. Sheehy). — The leaves sent are badly attacked with red spider, a common insect pest. A dry atmosphere and dryness at the root should be guarded against. The red spider delights in warmth, dryness, and a still atmosphere. Syringe 3'our plants with a parafiin emulsion, especially the undersides of the leaves, or with ilb. of flowers of sulphur, lib. of fresh lime, boiled in 2 gallons of water, then add jlb. of soft soap, and when all is well mixed add 2 gallons more water. Syringe the plants twice a week for two or three weeks. QUESTION. Carnations which do not Burst the Calyx. — I shall be much obliged if you will give me in your "Answers to Corrrespondents " column the names of twelve diflerent Carnations and Picotees which do not burst their calyx. — W. L [We hope some of our readers will help our correspondent. — Ed.] SOCIETIES. EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB. This flourishing instiiution, which has a membership of 293, has just issued its annual report. In this it is men- tioned that the proceedings at the monthly meetings have been invested with their usual attractiveness, the exlii- bitions, competitions, attendances, and general interest being all quite up to the usual standard. Erom a numerical and ftnancial aspect, the club has again shown an upward tendency, and at the present moment it occupies a stronger position than at any other period of its history. It will be satisfactory to note that the slight check in the growth uf membership which was experienced during the year 1903 has Ihis year been overcome, and the margin between new and lost members has on this occasion resulted favourably to the club. Commencing with a total of 279, the new blood added during the year is 49, as against 33 in 1903, and 6S in 1902. They comprise the following classes : 3 honorary subscribers, 10 head gar- deners, 5 singles, S amateurs, 2 nurserymen's assistants, and 21 under gardeners. The losses through deaths, removals, and other causes amount to 35, as against 39 in 1903, which, deducted from the new introductions, leaves a net gain of 14, making a total membership of 203, consisting of 23 honoiary subscribers, 200 ordinary mem- bers, and 70 under gardeners. Considering the growth which the club had already experienced during the past six years, together with the somewhat uncertain character of many of the under gardeners' situations, there is every reason for congratulation for the uphill advance which has been effected. la thanking the various members who have helped during the year by their recommendations, they are asked to kindly continue their good ottices in the same direction, so that the present strength of the club may be upheld. BECKENHAM HORTICULTURAL:;SOCIETy. Mr. A. J. Baker, J.P., occupied the chair on Eriday, the 6th ult., when Mr. Percy Waterer read a most interesting and instructive paper dealing with those varieties of decorative Chrysanthemums which were ornamental in form and colour. His remarks were confined entirely to his own experience. The grower of decorative Chrysan- themums need not worry about the exact dates to select cuttings, pinch the plants, or when the bud of each par- ticular variety must be secured. Yet still the manipula- tions necessary to obtain the best results from the different varieties would afford the enthusiast plenty of scope for experiment. A careful description of the treat- ment of the best varieties, new and old, suitable for the various purposes of decoration was given. As an illustra- tion of what a specimen decorative Chrysanthemum should be, Mr. Waterer said he once grew and exhibited a plant of Miss Gertie Waterer (a sport from Snowdrop) carrying over 800 perfect fluwers. The would-be successful grower must study every detail, and not be content to follow others. A charmingly arranged basket of the single Chry- santhemum Robert Morgan most etfectively illustrated the lecturer's remarks. REDHILL, REIGATE, AND DISTRICT GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. This society held its fortnightly meeting on the 17th ult., Mr. W. P. Bound in the chair. About ninety memhers were present. The subject was " Influence of Manures on Plants," introduced by Mr. Howard of Wye College, this being the first of a series of three lectures. Mr. Bound paid a very high tribute to the lecturer by saying it was owing to these gentlemen giving their time and study to the use of various manures which had in a great measure brought horticulture up to its present standard of perfec- tion. Mr. Howard dealt with his subject in a most com- prehensive manner, describing largely the methods of sLonng and preserving stable and animal manures, so as to maintain all the best properties contained therein until required for plant food. He also dealt somewhat minutely with the analysis of artificial manures, and said printed forms of the analyses would be distributed among the members at the next meeting. A very helpful discussion followed, and a vote of thanks was accorded Mr. Howard. This closed the meeting. Frederick C. Legge. Pattixon Court Gardenf^, Nutjield, Surrey. BOTANICAL SOCIETY OF EDINBURGH. A MEETING of the Botanical Society of Edinburgh was held at 5. St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on the 13th ult., the chair being occupied by Professor Bayley Balfour, the president of the society. The president read a very able and interesting paper on "Physiological Drought as a Principle in Gardening. " Professor Bayley Balfour re- marked upon the fact that one of the most important points in the cultivation of plants lay in the water supply, which was a critical point in gardening. He pointed out how largely the question of the distribution of plants at the present epoch of their history was caused by their relationship to water supply ; conditions which depended not only upon the amount of water but the degree to which this could be absorbed by the plants. The professor then ably dealt with the relation of this question to gardening, and showed that the low temperature of the soil, even when wet, affected plants so much as to cause disastrous conditions at certain times, and so produced physiological drought. He thought, therefore, that a proper conception of what constituted physiological drought ought to be acquired by every gardener— a know- ledge he could only secure through botanical knowledge. The whole paper was exceedingly interesting, and it is to be hoped that it may be made available in full to those interested in horticulture. Other communications were " The Mosses and Hepaticas collected during the excursion of the Scottish Botanical Alpine Club, 1904," by Mr. L. L. Cocks; and a "Note on the Life History of Puccinia graminis," by Mr. P. Johannides. KINGSTON GARDENERS' SOCIETY. The members of this society were favoured on the evening of the 13th ult. with a very capable and lucid lecture on " Hardy Perennials," given by their esteemed president, Mr. E. H. Jenkins. First referring to the old days when as a grower he used to exhibit such fine examples of hardy plants in pots at South Kensington and Regent's Park, Mr. Jenkins went on to deal very fully with the great Iris family, showing its wide range of variety and season and the form of culture needful to each type. He also dealt with Pieonies, Primulas, Pyrethrums, and other perennials, dwelling with particular emphasis on the best times for division ; how division, not by cutting but by pulling to pieces, should be effected ; periods for planting, soils, and other matters. A cordial vote of thanks on the proposition of Mr. A. Dean was readily given, and a hope was expressed that at some future date Mr. Jenkins would deal with aquatic plants. RAMSEY HORTICULTCRAL SOCIETY. The annual general meeting of members of the Ramsey Horticultural Society took place recently in the Reading Room, Lord De Ramsey (the president) in the chair. The balance-sheet, which showed that the society had a balance to the good of £79 9s., of which amount £G0 had been placed on deposit at the bank, was passed. The presi- dent, in the course of a few words, heartily congratulated those of the committee who had worked so hard, and the society in general, on the result of last year's wurk. Mr. Gilding proposed the re-election of Lord De Ramsey as their president. He was sure the society could not make a better selection. Mr. G. Ruwell seconding, it was carried with acclamation. Replying, his lordship said he and the family would be pleased at any time to forward the interests of the society in any possible way. The vice- presidents were re-elected, and the committee was formed. Mr. Major was elected chairman of the committee. It was unaniraoualy decided to hold the show as usual on August Bank Holiday. SORN AND CATRINE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual general meeting of the Sorn and Catrine Horticultural Society was held in the Works Schoolroom, Catrine, N.B., on the ISth ult., Mr. J. B. B. Morton (the president of the society) in the chair. The treasurer's financial statement, which showed a balance lo the credit of the society of .£10 23. 4d., was laid before the meeting and approved of. A large committee was appointed, together with the following ofiice-bearers : President, Mr. James B. B. Morton ; vice-presidents, Mr. John Macdonald and Mr. Alexander Brown ; secretary, Mr, J. Auld ; treasurer, Mr, Robert Meikle. THEALE AND DISTRICT GARDENING ASSOCIATION. The committee have great pleasure in presenting their third annual report. At the beginning of the year the membership numbered fifty-five. There are now forty-four on the roll. This decrease is due in a large measure to members leaving the district, and we are aorry to lose such good members as Messrs. West, Soper, Ager, Smailes, Hiesey, and Kett. Fortnightly meetings have been held during the early and late months of the year. The first ordinary meeting was held recently at 7 p.in. Mr. James Young took the chair, and after some prelimi- nary business Mr. W. H. Brislow, Sulhampatead House Gardens, read a paper, entitled " A Chat on Pruning Hardy P'ruit Trees," following with practical demonstrations in pruning Pears, Plums, Peaches, NectariiieB, Red Currants, Black Currants, Raspberries, and Gooseberries. Much interest was shown, and in the discussion which followed Messrs. Bullen, Cope, Dyson, Young, and others took part. Some pots of single and double Primula stellata were shown by the secretary, Mr. G. C. Rudd. One new member was admitted. CARDIFF GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. At a meeting held at the Sandringham Hotel on Tuesday, the 24th ult., Mr. T. Clarke presiding, Mr. H. R. Farmer gave a very interesting lecture, entitled "Plants and Floral Decorations Suitable tor a Private Establishment." Many valuable hints were given in reference to the colouring of foliage and other details, pointing out what to do when occasion arises and what to avoid. His chief advice was to lightly arrange flowers and foliage for a dinner table, and to use the must graceful plants for grouping about the interior of the mansion. Mr. Mayne opened the discussion, which was well taken up by most members. The chairman concluded by moving that the best thanks of the meeting be conveyed to Mr. Farmer for his instruc- tive lecture. BATH AND DISTRICT GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The monthly meeting of the members of the Bath and District Gardeners' Mutual Improvement Association was held at the Foresters' Hall. Mr. W. F. Cooling presided over a satisfactory attendance. A remarkable feature of these gatherings are the excellent exhibitions of fruits and vegetables, and at this meeting the collection staged had not deteriorated in quality, and only slightly in quantity. Prominently placed on the table was a beautiful bunch of Iris stylusa, and the chairman explained that the flowers had been picked from the garden of Mr. S. H. Robertson, The Lodge, Batheaston, where they had bloomed in the open air. A vote of thanks was passed to Mr. Rubertaon for sending the flowers. In the usual competition held prizes were awarded to Mrs. Tollemache for a collection of vegetables, and Mr. R. B. Cater for Primulas. KIDDERMINSTER AND DISTRICT HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The Daffodil show will be held on Saturday, April 15, the summer show on Saturday, July 15, and the Dahlia show on Saturday, September 16. Arrangements for 190o. February 9, Mr. W. F. Reid, C.E., &c., "Bees and Bee- keeping" ; February IS, annual dinner; March 9, Mr. A. Clark, " Chat about Sweet Peas " ; June 24, outing ; July 29, summer pruning demonstration at the Elms ; August 19, outing; October .S, annual general meeting; October 12, Mr. Milburn (curator of Bath Botanic Gardens), " Rock and Alpine Plants"; November 2, Mr. T. Humphreys (curator of Edgbaston Botanic Gardens), " The Best Flowering Shrubs for Winter and Spring" ; December 14, Mr. H. H. Thomas (assistant editor of The Garden), "Rambles among Riviera Gardens." NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. Annual Report. It gives your committee satisfaction to report that the society still maintains a furemost position among the special societies having for their object the cultureof some particular flower. The Chrysanthemum, especially as represented by the large exhibition Japanese varieties, continues as popular as ever, while the growth in the commercial value of the flower as a market and decorative subject has been highly satisfactory. Three exhibitions were held at the Crystal Palace in 1904. At the October show the classes for early Chrysanthemums did not till so well as could be desired. The floral decorations were, as usual, attractive, and some valuable miscellaneous exhibits of Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Ac, were staged. The Noveml)er show was a very great improvement upon that of 19113, both in respect to the site of the exhibition and the number of entries. In the principal classes for Japanese blooms the competition was very keen, and the specimens very fine in quality. The blooms shown in the vase class formed a very imposing feature ; decorations were as usual numerous, and the miscellaneous exhibits were varied and, taken as a whole, finer than at any previous show. The December show suffered somewhat from the damp, foggy weather which prevailed at the time. Still, the exhibition was a commendable one for so late in the season, and distinctly better than that of the previous December. Arrangements have been made with the Crystal Palace Company for three exhibitions to take place at Sydenham in the present year. The dates are October 4 and .'>. November 1, 2, and 3, and December 6 and 7. The experiment of holding an exhibition of market Chrysan- tht^mums at Essex Hall on December 14 last proTed a distinct and gratifying success, and excellent collection^ were staged, while the novelty of the exhibition attracted a good deal of public interest. The growers of market varieties for Covent Garden and the salesmen gave their warm and valuable support to the show. A satisfactory sum was raised by special subscriptions for the prizes, and the cost to the society has been repaid. The advisability of iKjlding a show of market Chrysanthemums is under consideration. The financial position of the society is satisfactory, notwithstanding that upwards of £50 addi- tional was given in prizes at the November show as compared with 1903. The reserve fund amounts to £117 lOs, 9d., £lir) of which is on deposit. Arrangements have been made for holding a conference meeting on early Chrysanthemums in connexion with the October show at the Crystal Palace. February 11, 1905.] THE GARDEN. XI. At the annual general meeting, held at Carr's Restaurant on the ODh inst., Mr. T. Bevan presided in the absence, through illness, uf the president, Mr. C. E. Shea. The attendance numbered hfty. The annual report and balance-sheet were adopted. In commenting upon the report, Mr. R. Dean (secretary) drew attenlion to the continued decrease In the number of subscribers since 1S1)7. lie hoped that an effort would be made to obtain fresh members. Other speakers also referred to this matter, and urged ihe necessity for present members to try and obtain others. A vote of thanks was passed to the auditors, who were re-elected. The president, Mr. C. E. Shea, was I'e-elected and thanked fur his past services ; a letter of sympathy was also directed to be sent to him. Mr. Taylor was re-elected treasurer ; Mr. Bevan, chairman of committee; Mr. Whitty, vice-chairman ; and Mr. Harman Payne, foreijjn corresponding secretary. Votes of thanks were passed to each. Upon the proposiition of Mr, Such, Mr. R. Dean was re-elected secretary. In replying, Mr. Dean said that he was now mure than seventy-tive years old, and thought they might with advantage ttnd a younger man as secretary, but he should be glad to remain in office as long as he enjoyed their conlidetice. The receipts at the market show, held in December, were £37 19i. 3d., and the balance, after paying expenses, was £1 33. 3d. The following amendment of the rules was then resolved npno ; That rule XIV. shall read : XIV. Classification, &c.~ "The floral cumiuittee shall also be the classification and catalogue committee. It shall be the duty of this com- mittee to determine the classification of varieties of doubtful character; to keep the society's catalogue revised up to date, and to prepare uew editions for publication, as required by the executive committee; to draw up each year, for publication in the annual report, a list of the best new varieties of the previous season as supplemental to the society's catalogue. The committee is empowered to obtain such expert assistance as may be deemed neces- sary. Also to make to the executive committee, from time to time, such recommendations affecting the exhibition of Chrysanthemums as it may appear desirable to adopt in practice." That rule XVI. be deleted. VI. Fellows and Honorary Fellows.— AH persons sub- scribing one guinea and upwards per annum shall be designated Fellows of the Society. Honorary Fellows shall consist of those who by reason of conspicuous service rendered to the Chrysanthemum have earned a title to some special recognition by the society. To add : Honorary Fellows shall be admitted to such of the privileges of the society, on such terms as the executive committee may from time to time determine. Six new members at 5s. subscription and one at lOa. 6J. were elected. The Brixton, Clapham, and Streatham Horticultural Society and the French Horticultural Society of London were affiliated. Among other questions discussed was that of sending a deputation to the forth- coming exhibition at Paris. The following were elected members of the executive committee (the number of votes each received is given in brackets): C. H. Curtis (49;, R. Kenyon (49), -T. McKerchar (4S), G. Pricket (4S), J. \V. Simmons (4S), A. J. Foster (45), James Tyler (44), D. B. Crane (43), A. W. Seabrouk(39), 0. J. Ellis (3S>, John Green (34), \V. Harrison (2S), and H. T. Wooderson (26). KIRKBEAN AND DISTRICT HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. At a meeting of the committee of this society, held at Cirsethorn on the 4th inst. , Jtr. W. D. Douglas, the School House, Kirkbean, was unanimously appointed honorary secretary in place of Mr. S. Arnott, who is removing from the district. The date of the show was fixed for August 17. ABERDEEN CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. The annual general meeting of the Aberdeen Chrysanthe- mum Society was held in the Music Hall Buildings, Aberdeen, ou the 2Sth ult.. when there was a large attendance of the members. The annual statement which was submitted to the meeting showed that the society was in a very prosperous condition. The show in Novem- ber last was exceedingly successful, and the balance to the credit of the society amounted to £195 9s. lid. The income for the year was £414 8s., the takings at the door having increased by about £50. As a result, the balance in favour of the society was about £49 mure than that of the previous year. The report was adopted unanimously. The following office-bearers were appointed ; Honorary president. Lord Provost Walker ; president, Mr. James Esslemont; vice-president, Mr. A. Kynooh ; secretaiyand treasurer, Mr. M. H. Sinclair ; auditors, Messrs. M'Haffie and Tarras ; together with a large committee. It was decided to hold the show this year on November 17 and 18, and, as the available space in last year's show has proved too limited, it was agreed to engage the entire suite of the Music Hall Buildings. LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. The twenty-sixth annual meeting of the above society was held on the ^Sth ult., at the society's office, Liverpool, Mr. Thomas Foster presiding. The report read by the secretary shows an excellent year's work. The entries at each exhibition proved a record, whilst the quality fully maintained its high order; the immber of visitors were : Spring show 2,U51, and at the autumn 4,354 ; total 6,40o. The lectures held during the winter months are not so well attended as they deserve to be. The balance sheei also showed a favourable overplus hruu'jht forward oi £195 lOs. lOd. ; receipts, spring show, £41 ISs. 7d. ; autumn, £1(58 Ss. ; subscriptions, £314 lis. Sd. ; advertisements, (fee, £24 73. Sd. ; total, £744 lOs. 6d. Expenses spring prizes, £93 7s. : hall, music, etc., £85 IOj. lOd. ; auLumn prizes, £140 5^. ; hall, music, printing, &c., £117 Sd. Sd. ; general expenditure, £S5 33. Id. ; total, £527 14d. 7d. ; leaving a balance in hand of £217 23. 2d. The usual sums of three guineas and two guineas were voted respectively to the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution and to the Gardeners' Orphan i'und. The Right Hon. Lord Mayor of Liverpool was elected president, Mr. G. Blackmore suli- treasurer, and Mr. Harold S^dlei- secretary. Messrs. Harmood Banner and Sons and Mr. R. G. Waterman were all re-elected. BROUGHTY FERRY HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. Tins association opened its eighteenth series of winter meetings on the 24th ult., when there was an excellent attendance of the members, and the spirit which pre- vailed gave promise of a successful session. The chair was occupied by Mr. James Slater, who made a few remarks appropriate to the beginning of the course of meetings. A most interesting and practical paper was read by Mr. A. MacLennan, The Gardens, Laurel Hill, Stirling, the subject being "The Cultivation and Arrange- ment of Hardy Perennials for Flower and Effect." Mr. MacLennan gave a troud account of the best methods to follow and the moat ;,uitable plants to use for the purpose indicated in the title of the paper. A valuable discussion followed. WOOLTON CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. The annual general meeting was held on the 27th ult., Mr. Neil GossHge presiding. The report submitted by the secretary proved that the society had enjuyed a most prosperuus year. The entries at the show proved a record, exceeding those of last year by over lUU. The balance sheet, read by tlie hon. treasurer, showed an upward tendency, the subscriptions amounting to over £S0, an increase of £7. The balance in the bank, £37 53 lid., was slightly above that of last year. The statements were accepted by the members with applause. An application to become affiliated with the National Chrysanthemum Society was unanimously approved. The election of "fficers : Treasurer, Mr. Neil Gussage ; secretary, Mr. W. D. Skinner; sub-treasurer, Mr. R. G. Waterman, all being re-elected. A cordial vote of thanks to Mr. Gossage was carried with applause. CROYDON HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The fifth annual dinner of the Croydon and District Horticultural Mutual Improvement Snciety, held at the Greyhound Hotel recently, proved a great social success, eclipsing all its predecessors in this respect. Every branch of gardening — both professional and amateur— was repre- sented in the gathering, which numbered about eighty. Mr. J. J. Reid presided, and was supported by Mr. R. Hooper-Pearson (vice-chairman), Dr. Thomas Jackson, and others. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF PERTHSHIRE. It is gratifying to learn that a good response is being made to the appeal of the above society fur special prizes for their centennial show, to be held in the course of the autumn. In addition to the cup given by the Perth Town Council, already mentioned in THE Garden, Jles&rs. Alexander and Brown have kindly promited a cup ; while Mr. Henderson, fruiterer, and the General Accident Insurance Corporation will give medals. It is expected tlmt the list will be still further augmented. TAYPORT HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual general meeting of the Tayport Horticultural Society was held recently, when there was a large attend- ance. The report of the treasurer was considered a satisfactory one, the balance to the credit of the society bfing about £9. Office-bearers were appointed fur the current year, these being : Chairman, Mr William Dowie ; secretary, Mr. W. M. Young; treasurer, Mr. John Hender- son ; members of committee, Messrs. A. Beat, D. Death, J. Berrie, J. Gilmuur, J. HuUey, D. Jolly, J. Keddie W. Melville, W. M'Rae, and A. N. Robertson. BIRMINGHAM AMATEUR GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The committee records that the results are generally satisfactory, but they would like to be in a position to cungratulate themembersongreater progress. Considering the number of years the association has been in existence, and the time and labour which have been devoted to it, it should receive a larger measure of suppurt from local amateur gardener-;. The hon. secretary is Mr. W. B. Grifiin, 11, Ivor Road, Showell Green. We hope that Birmingham amateur gardeners will give increased support to the local society. LATE NOTES. Royal Hopticultupal Hall deficiency. — While the council congratulate the Fallows un the raising "f so large a sum as £25,178 towards the building of the hall, they cannot but look upon it as a misfortune that there still remains a debt on the buildini/ fund of £S 989. The council make an earnest appeal to the Fellows to help in paying off this debt, and invite every Fellow to send a contribution at once for this purpose, so that in the new century of the society's existence it may not be hampered by a heavy deficiency. The hall, in addition to its being the lightest in London, possesses splendid acoustic properties, and ia being eagerly enquired after for concerts, bazaars, shows, and other functions, and the council trust that when the building becomes thoroughly known the rents receivable from such lettinga will materially help towards meeting the heavy cost for ground rent, rates and ta.xes, &c., and general maintenance, all of which would otherwise fall on the society's annual income. Victoria Medal of Honour in Horticulture (V.M.H.).— The vacancy in the list of the Victoria Medallists, caused by the death of the Dean of Rochester, has been filled by the appointment to this distinction of the Right Hon. Lord Redesdale. Obituary. — We regret to learn of the death of Mr. James Edward Ransome (of Ran- somes, Sims, and Jefferies, Limited), who died in London, on the 30th ult., after a brief illness, and was interred on the 3rd inst. at the Ipswich Cemetery. Valuable Orchids in dispute.— The Belgian Tribunal of Commerce is at present examining a case which awakes general public interest, and particularly among English Orchid growers. An amateur of repute in England bought five small plantsforabout £l,200of an alleged rare variety of Odontoglossum crispum from a firm in Brus.sels. The plants bought were not in flower at the time, and according to general custom the contract was made on the strength of water- colour drawings said to be the exact reproduc- tions of the five plants when in flower. In due course the buyer found to his dismay that the flowers of these Orchids had none of the superior qualities represented by these drawings, which formed the basis of this contract, and therefore in no way justified the exceptional value paid for them. The amateur, through his counsel, asked the tribunal to find for cancellation of the con- tract. The defendant pleads that the Orchids may have been exchanged, if not by the plaintiff at least by one of his staff, and that in the cir- cumstances it is impossible to admit of a cancel- ment of a sale regularly entered into by all parties. Judgment has not yet been given. — L'Etoile Belye. Chang'es in the London parks.— The recent death of Mr. Kemp^all, who was for many years superintendent of Clissold Park, has involved several changes. The chief of these is the raising to a higher rank of the Victoria Embankment Gardens, while Mr. F. W. Wright, who kept the gardens so admirably three or four years ago, has been requested to take charge of them again. Mr. J. H. Bates goes from the Embankment to Cliasold Park, Mr. G. Dodson from Kennington Park to Spring- field Park. Mr. T. Weatherstone from Battersea Park to Kennington Park, and Mr. F. Philp, who has hitherto been a foreman-in-charge, now becomes superintendent at Mvatt's Fields. Ipswich Daffodil Show.— This show will be held at the Public Hall and Saloon nn Tuesday, April IS, instead of a Wedneiiday. The judges engaged are Mr. Herbert .J. Cutbush, Highgate Nurseries, London, and Mr. James Preeee, Warley Place Gardens, Great Warley. A military band will attend. Intending exhi- bitors are reminded that entries close on Friday, April 14. All those who have not yet obtained a prize list may do so at once by applying to the secretary, Mr. Herbert E, Archer, 13, Museum Street, Ipswich. Royal Dutch Bulb Growers' Society at Haarlem (Holland).— The president and the council ot the Royal Dutch Bulb Growers' Society at Haarlem (Hol- land) write that the seventh great quirquenuial bulb show will be held at Haarlem from March 17 xu. THE GARDEN [February 11, 19(i5. to 21. This exhibition, whose jurors are chosen amongst the most renowned horticulturists of England, France, Germany, and Holland, pro- mises to be of great interest. Harrow Horticultural Society.— This society's show is ti.Ked for July 11 Derbyshire Horticultural Society. — The annual show will take place at Osmaston Park, Darby, on August 30 and 31. — Sidney Bdrtox, Canal Office, Derby. THE BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. "The Aims and Objects of the British Gardeners' Association " was the subject under discussion at a meeting held under the auspices of the Loughborough and District Gardeners' Associa- tion at the Town Hall, Loughborough, on the 17th ult., Mr. J. T. Smith presiding over a large and representative attendance of local gar- deners. In the course of his address, Mr. W. H. Divers, head gardener at Belvoir Castle, and member of the committee of selection of the association, after giving a most interesting account of the early history of gardening and the great advancement that had been made in all branches of gardening within recent times, said that, most unfortunately, there had not been a corresponding advance in the wages paid to gardeners. He then proceeded most carefully and lucidly to explain the objects and programme of the association, pleading that hearty support should be given to it by both employer and employed. After some discussion, upon the motion of Mr. D. Roberts of Prestwold Gardens, Loughborough, it was unanimously resolved that " all those present pledge themselves to give their support and co-operation to the British Gardeners' A'^socia- tion." Mr. W. Begbie having been elected local secretary, the usual hearty votes of thanks were accorded to the lecturer and chairman. Meetings for the purpose of organising branches of the British Gardeners' Association will be held in the following towns: Norwich, February 8; Leeds, February 11 ; Birmingham, February 13. Also in Manchester, Liverpool, Bath, Crawley, Newport (Mon. ), Exeter, Wylam-on-Tyne, and Altrincham. It is hoped that gardeners residing near any of these towns will make an effort to be present at the meetings. Up to the present meetings have been held in the following towns : Oxford, Haslemere, Bournemouth, Catprham. Redhill, Sunderland, Ipswich, Swansea, Carditi", Loughborough, and Newcastle. Secretaries of gardeners' societies are invited to communicate with the secretary of the association with a view to making arrangements for meetings ia their respective districts. A very large and representative meeting of the gardeners and nurserymen of Cardifif and Newport districts was held at the Town Hall on the 16th ult. to consider the advisability of organising a local branch of the British Gardeners' Association. Mr. Stephen Treseder, F. R. H.S., presided. Mr. Pv. Hooper Pearson, a delegate of the London executive, and Mr. W. W. Pettigrew (superintendent of parks, Cardiff) were the principal speakers. Mr. W. W. Petti- grew, in opening the proceedings, urged need of co-operation among gardeners. Mr. R. Hooper Pearson expounded the aims and ideals of the association. These are briefly the bettering of the conditions of labour and wages of the gar- deners, and at the same time raising the standard of the gardener and gardening, so that the employer will be benefited as much as the employed e. Mr. Hugi. A. Pettitrrew (head gar- dener to L,ord Windsor, St. Pagan's, Cardiff) proposed that a branch of the British Gardeners' Association should be formed to embrace the Cardiff and Newport districts. A number of gar- deners in the district had already, he said, joined the association. By forming a branch, however, the members would have more weight and influ- ence in helping forward the aims of the associa- tion. Mr. Fred Treseder seconded, and the resolution was unanimously ca.rried. Mr. Hugh A. Pettigrew was elected hon. secretary. NOTES FROM MARKETS. THE COVENT GARDEN xMAEKET. Average Wholesale Pkices. THERE is not much variation in the cut flower supplies. More French flowers are now coming over. The Roses, which are usually a feature at this time, are still scarce, and what do come are of poor quality. English Roses are not quite so scarce as they were, but high prices are still maintained for good blooms. DTffiidils are plentiful; Sir Watkin, Hor.«fieldi, Henry Irving, and other good sorts are now coming in. Tulips are most abundant. Lily of the Valley has been over plentiful for some time. Carnations are fairlj' plentiful. Chrysanthemums are now getting over ; a few good blooms are seen. Some nice fresh blooms of Godfre3''3 Winter Queen were making 3s. per bunch. Liliums of the usual sorts are well supplied. Violets are more plentiful ; some very fine-grown are seen. Snowdrops and Wallflowers are now plentiful. O.chid bloom includes ver\' fine Cat- tleyas, Dendrobiuras, Lselias, Ccelogynes, and OJontoglossums. In pot plants Azilea indica. Genistas, Cinerarias, Prinuilas, H\acinths, Begonias, Driffodils, Ericas, and Marguerites are the chief things seen. Cycla- men should not be omitted ; these are very fine just now. Ferns, Palms, and other foliage plants are plentiful, with little variation in prices. In fruit there is little variation. Grapes may go up in price .shorily. Good English Apples are advancing. The Canadian are also dearer for best samples. Canary Tomatoes aro very fine and make from is,, to 6j. per dczOT pounds. Flowers. j. ,;. ,,. a. Anemones per dozen bunches 3 0 to 4 0 Azalea indica allja ,, ,, 4 0 ,, o 0 mollis .. ,. 12 0 ,, 18 0 Bouvardia ,, " e 0 „ S 0 Calla a?thiopica .. ,, blooms 3 0 ,, 5 0 Camellias 1, J, 2 0 „ 3 0 Cattleya labiata 1, 11 10 0 „ 12 0 Carnations bunches IS 0 „ 30 0 ,, special American va. idles blooms 3 0 ,, B 0 Cyclamen ,, bunches (i CI „ 8 0 Cypiiped ium insiffne A < thers ,, blooms 2 6 ,, 3 t) Dendrobinm nobile 11 n 2 0 ,, 3 tj Daffodils, yellow trump it ,, bunches 0 u ,. 9 u double ,, ,, 7 0 ,, 10 0 ,, piinceps ■1 7 0 „ 9 u Eucbaris amazonica .. ,, blooms 3 0 „ 4 u Euphorbia jacquinitcflu •a per bunch 2 u ,. 3 0 Kreesia refracta alba . . per dozen bunches 3 6 „ 4 6 Gardenias ,, blipiims 2 0 „ 3 0 Hyacinths, Koman ,, bunches 6 0 „ S tl Lilac, English forced ,. per bunch 3 0 „ 4 0 „ French .. ,, 3 s ■■ 4 0 Lilium aural nm ,, 2 6 „ 3 0 ,, loiigiflorum ,, 4 0 >, 6 0 ,, lancifolium albt m . ,, 2 11 o 2 6 ., ., rub rum . ,, 2 (1 .. 2 6 Lily oj the Valley per dozen bunches 6 0 „ 15 0 Lycaste Skinneri ,, bUioms 6 u .. 6 0 Marguerites, white ,, bunches 3 0 „ 4 0 ,, yellow .. ,, n 2 s ,. 3 e Myosotis ., ,> 0 u - Narcissus, Paper-white pel dozen bunches 3 0 „ 4 0 Soleil d'Or 1, n 3 Ij „ .1 0 „ Gluriosa .. ,, '• 3 u „ 4 0 Odontoglossum ci-ispum ,, blooms 2 u „ 3 0 Primula sinensis, dbl. white ,, bunches 6 0 o 6 0 Pelargonium (show), white o G 0 „ 8 0 ,, (zonal), dbl. sclt. ,, ,, 6 0 „ 9 0 .. ]> sa mon ,, ,, 6 0 „ S 0 Poinsettias ,, lieads C u ., 9 0 Itaiuinctilus ,, bunches 9 0 ,, 12 0 Hoses (Rnglish) ,, blooms .S 0 „ 12 u ,, (b'rench) .. ], o 1 U o 2 0 Snowdrops ,, bunches 1 0 ,, 2 0 Tuberoses »3 " 0 11 „ 0 s ,, on stems . per bunch 0 '.) „ 1 tl Tulips pci dozen bunches 1) 0 „ 12 0 Violets, blue ,1 ., 2 0 ,. 3 0 ,, Parma .. per hnncll 3 11 .. 5 0 \Vallflowera per dozen bunches 2 u „ 3 0 10 14 0 0 0 0 12 0 2-i 0 14 0 Ornamental Foliage. Aaparagus plumosus . . . . per bunch 1 0 to 2 6 ,, ,, .. long trails, each 0 9,, 10 ,, ,, Sprengeri per bunch 0 9,, 16 Adiantuni cunealum .. per dozen bunches 6 0,, 9 0 Cycaa leaves .. .. .. .. each 10,, 16 Myi Lie . . . . . . per dozen bunches 4 0,, 6 0 Mediula aaparaguides (Sinilax) .. ..longtrails, per bunch 2 0 ,, 3 0 English Kern (various) per duzen bunches 3 0 — Berberis Mahunia .. ,, „ 2 6„ 3 0 Ivy leaves (bronze) .. ,, ,, 1 6 ,, 2 U „ long iraiU per bunch 10,, 2 0 ,, short green.. .. per dozen bunches 10,, 16 Fruit. Apples, English dessert .. per sieve 4 0,, 12 0 >) M culinary .. ,, ,, 3 0 „ 6 0 ,, American .. per barrel 12 0 ,, IS 0 ,, Newtown Pippins .. per case 16 0 ,, IS 0 Bananas, Jamaica .. per bunch 5 0 ,, Canary Islands .. ,, ,, SO Cob Nuts per dozen lb. 5 0 Cranberries .. .. .. ..per box 6 0 Grapes, Alicante .. ,. per dozen lb. 8 0 Gros Culmar .. .. „ „ 10 0 Lemons . . . . per case 8 0 Oranges, Vvil'^ncias .. .. ,,6 6 ,, 10 0 „ JartiS „ 10 0 „ 12 0 ,, Jamaicas .. .. ,, 5 0 ,, 7 0 Pears „ 10 0 „ 12 0 Pines, St. Michael's each 2 6,, 5 0 THE EDITOR'S TABLE. We invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accom- pany the Hower so as to make a notice of it more inatructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether iruit, tree, shrab, Orchid, or hardy tlower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand. GARDENING APPOINTMENTS. Mn. William RuBEKTS, tur nn.re ih^n twu years fore- man at Delauieie Il.mse Gardens, NuiLhwicb, has been appointed head gardener to Ruscoe Biunner, Edq., at Belmont Hall, Nurthwich, Cheshire. He enters on his duties on the 13ih itist. Mr. G. W. Cummins, A.R.H.S., for many years head gardener to the late A. H. Smee, Eiq., f.RH.S, at Wallington, Surrey, afterwards tilling a similar position wiUi the late W. H. Lumsden, Esq., Bit.iiedie, Alterdeen, has been appointed head gardener Lo Leigh Guldie-Taub- man, E^q., The Nursery, Douglas, Isle of Man. [We shall wtlcoine intimatioiU) of gardening appoint- ments.] Catalogues Received. Lilies and Hardy Plants. —Amoa Perry, Winchmore Hill, N. .i'c(!(/i-. — Messrs. W. Smith and Son, Exchance Seed Warehouses, Aberdeen ; Hngg and Robertson, 22, Mary Street, Dublin ; G. Cooling and Suns, Bath ; Frank Dicks and Co., t5S, Deansgate, Manchester ; E. W, King and Co., Coggeshall, Essex; John Jefferies and Son, Cirencester; Vilmorin-Aiidrieux et Cie., Paris ; Alex. Cross and Sons, Limited, 10, Hope Street, Glasgow ; W. Baylor Hartland and Sons, Cork ; Cunningham and Wyllie. 9S, Mitchell Street, Gla'ttrow ; M. H. Sinclair, 156a, Union Street, Aberdeen ; Hooper and Co., Cuvent Garden, W.C. ; Dobie and Mason, 22, Oak Street, Manchester; Webb's tVordsley, Stonrbridge. PotatuL's.—B.. J. Jones, Kyecroft Nursery, Hither Green, Levvisham. Hardij Flowers and Border Plants.~Zo)\x\ Forbes, Hawick, N.B. Garden Spf.cinl'iics and licqui-^ites.— The Four 0.iks Garden .Sundries Company, Four Oaks, Sutton Culdfield, Birmingham. New Chrysantheimuns.—'B.. Caunell and Sons, Swanley, Kent. Gladioli.— \V. C. Bull. Ellington Ro;id, Ramsgate. iiiveet and CuUnari/ Pea Seed. — F. A. Roscoe, Tlie Golden Orchard, Steeple Mordeu, Hoyston. Publications Received. "Index Seminum in Hon is Musei Parisiensis," 1904. Report for the ye.r 19U3 of the Botanic Gardens and Domains, New South Wales. " Bulletin de la Sucidt^ Nationfile d'Acclimatation de France." " Bullettino della R. Societa Xoscana di orlicultura." " Les Rosea." " Chemical Fertilisers in the Garden." *' Boletin da Real Asaocia^ao Central da Agricultura Portugueza." *»♦ 77(1' Yearly .^ubxr.rifjtivn to TUE GAlli>EN is: In'aud, 6s. Od. ; Foreign, Ss. Od. GARDEN —^^~ 1^^^^ No. 1735.— Vol. LXVII. February 18, 1905. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. LAST year was an eventful one in the history ot the Ptoyal Horticultural Society, for the society then ^v reached its centenary. This was celebrated by the opening of the Royal Horticultural Hall by His Majesty the King, atid the removal of the gardens from Chiswick to Wisley, two events which may be said fittingly to crown the chequered career of this great horticultural association. With its new hall and offices, a properly equipped garden, and a largely increased and ever-increasing roll of Fellows, an even wider sphere of usefulness is opened out. The annual report of the society, presented at the general meeting held on Tuesday last, and which is fully reported in another column, gives some interesting facts with regard to the society's position and progress. The total number of Fellows, associates, and affiliated societies is now 8,360. In 1904 there were 1,383 new Fellows, ifcc. ; deducting resigna- tions and deaths, which number 469, the actual numerical increase is 914, and the net increase in income £1,510 193. Although the progress of the society is so satisfactory the council is fully alive to its responsibilities; for instance, we read, "While the council congratulates the Fellows on the raising of so large a sum as £25,178 towards building the hall, they cannot but look upon it as a misfortune that there still remains a debt on the building fund of £8,989." An earnest appeal is made to the Fellows to help in paying off this debt, and the council invites every Fellow to send a contribution at once for this purpose. It is satisfactory to learn that the hall is being enquired after for con- certs, bazaars, and other functions, and we hope that when the building becomes better known the money received from this source will materially help towards paying the heavy rates and taxes. Meanwhile, we hope all who have the interest of the society at heart will help to pay off the debt on the hall fund. Free from this burden, the council would be in a position to pay greater attention to the work which needs to be done at Wisley. The council wishes to erect suitable buildings at Wisley to serve as a laboratory for scientific and experimental research in matters per- taining to plant life, diseases, and pests, but cannot consent to expenditure in this direc- I tion in the present financial position of the •society. As soon as the hall is paid for, [ doubtless due consideration will be given to this important matter. The fortnightly meetings and shows held at the new hall have become most important centres of horticultural interest, and, if possible, they improve from year to year. Here may be seen the plants that are best worth growing as each season comes round, and here also all new plants, flowers, fruits, and vegetables of merit are sent for the critical opinion of the expert. Even if the Fellow had no other privileges than free admittance to these meetings he would get remarkably good value for a guinea ; but when we take into consideration the other accessory privileges, such as receiving the Journal, tickets for the special shows held periodically, expert advice about insect pests and diseases and other matters, then it is evident that to be a Fellow of this society is to get more than full value for one's sub- scription. The Journal, .so well edited by the secretary of the society, the Eev. W. Wilks, is a valuable asset, and alone may bo ' said to induce membership. Through its great exhibitions of flowers and fruits and vegetables, its lecturers and committees, its encouragement to kindred societies, its examinations, and in other ways, the Royal Horticultural Society is doing valuable work for gardening and gardeners in this country, and the labours of those responsible for its rapid progress and almost phenomenal success during the past few years cannot fail to meet with the appreciation and recog nition they thoroughly deserve. SHOW CARNATIONS, PICOTEES, & AURICULAS. As to the objection which " Ignoramus " takes to the way in which groups or " pans" of Carna- tions and Picotee blooms are shown, I think the oblrusiveness of white cardboard "collars" could be obviated if the collars were made from material of the same colour as the show-board. " Collars," however, have their use to the judges in being a handy means o£ lifting a flower to examine whether ihecalyx had been allowed tosplit too far for keeping the petals within due bounds. A Carnation or Picotee cannot, without risk, be taken up by a petal or two, like a rabbit by its ears ! In the good old days every flower was inspected to test the integrity of the "pod," and a split one was disqualification, as showing that the grower had not, taken the pains to tie the calyx of his buds in time to prevent a mischievous split and its consequences. If a variety is not too thin in the number of its petals, it is a great virtue in the pod to be naturally " not a burster." To a florist of the strict olil school every petal is a picture too good to be hidden under a pile of other petals, just as way- ward winds may sportively have played with them. Perhaps it may be said that collars would not be needed if each flower were set in a small green tube, raised a little above the green show-boaid. That is so ; but then, although each calyx would be discernible, still the Bowers could not be so readily judged as when the whole lull face can be seen at a glance. Neither can the judges count upon having time enough to go through a kind of "letter-sorting" process among Carnation petals, that by natural disposition may be lying three or four deep one above another. This might either conceal a beauty or hide a fault, a result not to be desired either way. I suppose the question of "dressing" these flowers will ever be a vexed one. Of course, it will not trouble those who grow Carnations merely for broad or distant effects in open borders, nor will it vex the righteous soul w ho wants them only for decorative purposes indoors. "Dressing" is, after all, but the best way of so arranging the petals that each shall gain its own fair meed of admiration. Also, the art is not so easy as it looks, which, as in other trials of skill, is an enviable virtue and a rewarding joy ! Admittedly, there are extremes in dressing Carnation blooms. Some are dressed to death, pulled about, and stretched as if tortured rack- wise. Others are left confused in a multiplicity of contorted or narrow "strappy" petals. Others, again, may be wanting or be over- done in some class colour of their type, e.g., a self-coloured petal in a "bizarre" or a "flake" Carnation ; or a Picotee with splashes or " bars" upon what should be a pure white or clear yellow ground, with just an unbroken edge of some lovely shade in red or purple, rose or scarlet. With these points stated, your correspondent with the modest name and I may, figuratively, shake hands, as they that agree to differ, although "He that complies against his will is of his own opinion still. " As regards the classical "edged" Auricula, to which "Ignoramus" alludes, surely the single form of that flower is more graceful and winsome than the double, even as in the Snowdrop and Violet or the Daffodil and Tulip. In the course of many years I have raised but one double Aricula and one striped, and thev looked the " freaks " they were. Somehow, if I may use the ladylike expression, "it does not suit the face," to be, as it were, thus double-faced. I think I can comprehend my unknown friend when he complains that there is but a limited variety in the florist's Auricula, because one fair visitor who saw my collection in full bloom declared that she saw "nothing but two varieties, the one plain and the other variegated." I grant this was an extreme case ; but I may 1)8 THE GARDEN. [February 18, 1005. venture to prophesy that if ever " Ignoramus" were to grow the Auricula he would come to know the claas distinctions, the features of different varieties in any one class, and further, to identify a sort by the very habit of the plant at other than the flowering season. I hope that your correspondent aforesaid has, in a great measure, misconstrued Mr. R. Dean's "advocacy of a more liberal taste in these charming flowers." It is possible to put a very ugly and retrograde construction ■on that much-abused word "liberal," and if -Mr. R. Dean could possibly mean that " by a more liberal taste " we are to sanction the lower- ing of well-recognised and standard points in the Auricula, instead of striving to emphasise, raise, and fix them more, then would he earn anything but the sympathy and help of the Midland and Northern men. The Auricula has, by long and loving care and efforts, been so patiently followed up and led on that the best varieties of threescore years ago are hardly, if at all, in circulation now. It is largely so also with the English florist Tulip ; while on the other hand, the old true gold-laced Polyanthus, in both the black ground and the red ground classes, is almost lost ; there is no such quality as that of Lord Lincoln in Hack grounds, or anything to compare with Kingfisher in the reds. Neither does there seem to be any specialist in the beautiful florist Ranunculus, of which George Lightbody of Falkirk and Carey Tyso of Wallingford were such noted raisers. I only see in some English and Continental bulb catalogues a few stragglers and remnants of the true types, such as Lightbody's Napier and Larne, and Kilgow's Queen and Incomparable. Some- times they are only to be recognised amid a quantity of nameless " mixtures." The queen of all was the exquisite black Naxara, the only flower that ever was stolen, " root and stock," from my garden. I should know her anywhere, but she is extinct now ! Francis D. Horner, M.A., V.M.H. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. February 21. — Meeting of Sevenoaks Gardeners' Society. February 24. — Lee and Blaokheath Horticul- tural Society's Meeting. March 1. — Sheffield Horticultural Society's Meeting. March 4. — Meeting of the French Horticul- tural Society of London. March 6. — Mansfield Horticultural Society's Meeting. Prizes for gardeners. — We have received so many replies to the questions about trees and shrubs, published in The G,4Rden during .January, that we have not yet been able to select the best. However, we hope shortly to publish the names of the four prize winners. Evesham gardeners in Paris. — I have read wjth interest your article about the Evesham gardeners' visit to Paris, which appeared in The Garden. The capital letter which appeared in The Times, written by the correspondent who was with the party during their stay in Paris, supplied you with thoroughly reliable details, but it has occurred to me that ^ou might be glad to know of the origin and further continuance of the fcheme. For some years past I have seen the advantages bound to accrue to Evesham from the introduction of French methods of cultivation, and of a greater variety of cultures in pjvesham and the Vale. In November of 1904 I wrote a letter to the Eoesham Journal, advocating the introduction of these newer methods of cultivation. This was followed by a meeting at Evesham, where I read an address advocating what was set forth in the above-mentioned letter of mine, and, moreover, urging the market gardeners to go themselves to Paris and become personally acquainted with the French style of cultivation. I enclose some notes taken from the Ettiham Journal, giving an account of that meeting. You may be further interested to know that the scheme thus started has so far borne fruit, in that I have been instrumental in procuring the services of a French gardener for Mr. Idiens of Evesham, who since his visit to Paris has decided to start a garden on the French model at his farm. The Frenchman arrived at Charing Cross on the Sth inst. , and will remain at least two years, when it is hoped the French style of market gardening will be in full swing at Evesham and parts of the Vale. I thoroughly endorse your remarks as to manure being used too sparingly by some of our market growers. It was an eye- opener to see the enormous quantity of manure used by our French friends ; indeed, the gardens were all manure. — C. D. McKay, 12, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden. British Gardeners' Association. In addition to those already reported, meetings have been held in the following towns : At Newport, Isle of Wight, on the 31st ult. , under the auspices of the Isle of Wight Horticultural Association, the meeting being addressed by Mr. R. Hooper Pearson as a delegate . from the British Gardeners' Association. It was resolved to form an Isle of Wight branch of the associa- tion, Mr. C. H. Snook of Westhill Gardens, Shanklin, being appointed local secretary. At Wylam-on-Tyne, on the 2nd inst., members from several local gardeners' societies attending. The meeting was addressed by Mr. W. Hall, Superin- tendent of Parks, &c., Sunderland, as a delegate from the association, and by some other Sunder- land members of the association, their exposition of the benefits to be derived from co-operation meeting with a very cordial reception. Clematis in Somersetshire, — In reply to the question by "Garnous" in your issue of the 2SLh ult., page x., I have no doubt that the Clematis is C. Flammula. There are some old plants on cottages in this village which receive very little attention in the way of train- ing, &c., but are very beautiful when in bloom against the thatched roof. The scent from them can be detected for a long distance. It is a wonder that it is not used more. C. Vitalba grows luxuriantly in the hedgerows and woods about here. The soil is marly clay on limestone. GhorgeH. Head, The Garden-^, Kiixjsdon Manor, Taunlon. Bearded Flag Irises.— Among the many beautiful forms of Bearded Flag Irises grown, those that constitute the section I. pallida stand in the foremost rank. Tall growing and handsome, they are effective for planting in groups in the shrubbery border or wild garden, while for display in .June there is nothing to equal a broad mass of these plants situated on a sloping bank near water. Used for beds on the lawn, as in the illustration on page 104, with a background of tree", these plants form a charming picture with their numerous large and lovely flowers of various shades of colour. They are among the easiest of plants to grow ; established clumps produce a large number of flower-stems, and keep up a succession of bloom for a considerable time. This section, which is a little later in flowering than the common purple German Iris, includes several varieties of different shades. One of the Snest is I. p. var. dalmalica, which grows 3i feet high, with broad foliage, and sweet-scented lavender-coloured flowers of large size. Equally tall, with soft blue standards, and soft lavender falls, is Albert Victor. Both these are robust-growing plants of stately habit. Astarle has rosy lilac standards, claret-red falls, and grows about 2 feet high. Delicata has grey standards and lavender falls on stems about 2i feet high. One of the prettiest is Queen of May, which grows nearly 2^ feet high, with flowers of a rosy lilac or almost pink shade. Once planted in good sandy loam, on almost any good garden soil, these Irises will produce an abundance of flowers annually for several years. When necessary to replant, the best time is just after they have finished flowering ; this gives time for the plants to become established again before the following winter. Disease may be kept in check bj' spreading lime round about the rhizomes where it appears. — W. I. Window flowers for^ London houses. — The Earl of Meath, who, as president of the Metropolitan Gardens Associa- tion, has done much towards beautifj'ing London, is offering money prizes to metropolitan flower- show committees who will include a window-box class in their catalogues. We understand that the Earl wishes to secure the formation of window gardens in the thousands of small and dismal streets which are too narrow to plant trees in. This will brighten the homes of the poor, give the people a healthy occupation, and beautify many miles of unsightly bricks and mortar. The scheme has been successfully tried in Battersea. A large estate has recently been laid out by the Borough Council, who themselves offered the prizes, and this encouraged people to brighten the outsides of their homes. It is to be hoped that numerous other parishes will take the idea up. They have had difficulty in the past in finding money, but that obstacle has now been overcome. There is much room for improve- ment in the richer parts of jLondon, too. New Pear Santa Claus.— I quite agree with " A. D.'o" remarks that it was peculiar to give the above Pear, which may not be new, a distinct award. Would it not be worth while to ascertain first what name it is grown under on the Continent ? I am not at all sure that the name given is the best — of course that only concerns the exhibitor ; but if the fruits are so good the name is b^' no means suitable, as it does not give one the impression of a really fiueenstown, Ireland : "I I believe it to be a form of R. arboreum." -Anne have just heard of the germination for the first time of seeds received here from the Cook Islands of a very beautiful composite Fitehia sneciosa, with large, handsome flower-heads. This fine plant is not mentioned in the 'Index Kawensis' or in either of its supplements. I hope the seedlings will thrive and one day bloom.'' Marshall, Skelwith Fold, Ambleside. [Yes.— Ed.] THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by tliis means many rare and interesting plants be- come more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice Cole Orton Hall Gardens, Ashby-de-la-Zouch, ot it more instructive to those who may wish Leicestershire, flowers of two useful Chysanthe- to Roses, such "as Laurette Messimy, Duke of York, Mme. E. Resal, Queen Mab, Fellenberg, and the old-fashioned Monthly. The site should be well deepened and manured. Some Technical Terms. — Beginners, when told to stop a plant or to pinch it, are often puzzled to know what is meant. It simply means when a young plant is growing freely to take out the tern.inal bud of each shoot, so as to cause other shoots to break out lower. Any plant growing freely may be treated in this way to make it bushy and increase the number of its flower-heads or spikes. It is not considered good practice to stop or pinch a plant when repotting, but wait till the roots have become active or pinch a fortnight or eo before. Pricking off or "pricking oat," as it is termed, is generally applied toyoung seedling plants, and means transplanting from the seed-pots or boxes to others at wider intervals to give strength and increase the number of the roots. Another form of the same term is " potting off," which is done when the little plants are taken from cutting-pots or seed-boxes and placed simply in small pots to give them an independent existence. Shifting on a Plant. — In the phraseology of the potting shed, giving a plant a shift means transferring it to another pot usually of a larger size. In the growth of a plant from a seed or cutting there will be a series of shifts, the pots gradually increasing in size to meet the needs of the plant. Thus in the case of a Chrysanthemum — say, for instance — we may start the cutting in what is termed a "thumb" pot, and in about four shifts it will finish its career in an 8-inch or 9inch pot. Pruning Red and While Currants. — With these a different course is adopted, as the bushes bear so freely on spurs from 1 inch to 2 inches long and the fruit is finer when the young wood is checked. Therefore spur-pruning with these fruits is best, but a young shoot may be left to fill up a vacancy where required. The best form of bush is what may be termed basin shape, i '. , a hollow centre with the branches arranged in whorls round at regular distances apart, the contour or balance being properly maintained. Pruning Black Currants. — The Black Currant bears on the young wood, and the pruning should be directed to provide a good supply of short- jointed young shoots, taking out an old branch where necessary to more fully attain that object. SIMPLE HINTS, No open centre is required. We simply want to have increased their popularitj-. To get fine flowers they must have plenty of room, and be well nourished with both solid and liquid manures. create a bush some 4 feet or 5 feet through with the branches disposed at equal distances apart in a well-balanced condition. Very little shortening is necessary bej'ond what may be required to maintain symmetry. Sprouting Potatoes before Planting. — The best way of sprouting Potatoes ready for planting is to place them, crown upwards, in shallow trays view in making the following selection : Gladys or boxes in a light frost-proof building. This, if Unwin, pink ; Dorothy Eckford, white ; Bolton's not already done, should be seen to at once. The Pink (good) ; Miss Willmott, orange ; Black best eyes are on the crown, and the central one Knight; Mr. Walter Wright, blue ; King Edward in this way will develop a sturdy green shoot VII., crimson ; Mr. E. Kenyon, yellow ; Scarlet half an inch or so long. When in that condition Gem ; Mrs. Eckford, primrose ; Navy Blue ; Sweet Peas : Good Varieties. — There are far too many varieties in the seed-lists, and a beginner is puzzled to make a selection. For cutting we want distinct colours, and I have kept this in Emily Eckford, mauve; Lord Kenyon, rose; and Mont Blanc, white. Koniga maritima. — This neat, dwarf, white- flowered plant is being used a good deal as an it is ready for planting. Potatoes even now, when more attention is given to their culture, are seldom given room enough to do their best. To prove this we have only to note the crop pro- duced by outside rows in any given plot. The best manures for Potatoes are those containing a edging and carpeting pTant. It hugs the ground preponderance of phosphates and potash. If the land is poor and nitrogenous manures are used to finish off the crop, scatter nitrate of soda along- side the rows, just previous to earthing up, at the rate of 31b. per square rod. The hoe should follow the manure distributor immediately. The rows of strong-growing Potatoes should be 3 feet apart, and the sets in the rows 16 inches from each other. The depth of covering should be from closely, and forms a dense, low growth which is covered with small white flowers. These come in succession all the summer. It may be easily propagated from cuttings under glass. An ideal bed may be obtained bj' using this as a carpet beneath the purple-leaved Lobelia Queen Victoria. Change of Position. — Plants in pots in the 4 inches to 6 inches, according to the nature of greenhouse or in windows in the dwelling-house the soil. should be often moved, so as to bring all their parts under full exposure to sunshine and light. Lettuces under Glass. — Hitherto the French This keeps the growth equal on all sides. In the Lettuces in spring have monopolised our markets, conservatory frequent rearrangements should take but the English growers are waking up, and place, bringing the best specimens into prominent will adopt and probably improve upon French positions. This gives an opportunity to move the methods. In many English private gardens glass- plants whose blossoms have faded to another I grown spring Lettuces may be had. VVhere house and fill up with others from the forcing early Asparagus is forced, the beds after the house. Asparagus is cleared off come in well for Let- tuces, or slight hot-beds could be made for them and covered with frames. A trench filled with warm manure and covered with cheap frames may be raised from seeds in heat during Feb- would produce good Lettuces. ruary, and will include Castor Oil Plants, espe- eially the bronzed-leaved variety Gibsoni. The Edgings of Pinlcs in the Garden. — These are variegated Maiz-i may be sown later, as it grows very sweet in cottage gardens in the country , quiclily. Acacia lopantha, Grevillea robusta, when planted as edgings round borders or along- Fernandia emineus, various kinds of Solanums, side walks. If old plants are pulled to pieces , including the variegated form (8. niarginata) and in September, each piece retaining a bit of old | robusta (the red-spined variety). Indian Shot or Sah-tropical Plants for the Garden. — For the purpose of the outside garden many of these stem, and dibbled in prepared ground somewhat thickly, they will soon form a good edging that will flower abundantly the following summer and fill the garden with their fragrance. There is a race of perpetual Pinks of various colouring being introduced that will be valuable. Cannas may be raised from seeds in strong heat, but the seeds should be soaked for twenty-four hours in warm water before sowing. Clothing Bare Spots Under Trees — Bare earth is always objectionable, and there are not many things that will thrive beneath heavy-foliaged Early Tomatoes. — For the earliest crop under , trees. The Horse Chestnut is the worst I have glass Comet, Holmes's Supreme, and Early Rubj' [ had to deal with, and the only plant which really are good. The last has a little of the Old P^ed ! seems happ}' in such a position is the small-leaved blood in it, but the fruits are only very slightly 1 Ivy. The best is the common Ivy, which grows wrinkled. All these set freely, ripen early, and wild in the woods. Caenwoodiana, a small, neat- do well in pots or where the root-space is very I leaved variety, is also a success, as it clings to limited. It is not much use starting unless there j the ground and sends out roots at every joint. is a night temperature of not less than GO" for j If small bulbs, such as Aconites and Snowdrops, raising the plants, as those starved are gene- I are planted freely among the Ivy the effect in ; rally more or less failures, but with plenty of , early spring is very good. I warmth they move rapidly. Sow the seeds very } thinly in pots or boxes, and grow on without j Old Apple Trees. — We are a conservative check. people, and set a sentimental value upon old trees ' and ancient buildings, but when it becomes a Some Sweet Peas. — One, perhaps the chief, ' question of meeting foreign competition the old reason for their increased popularity is the large trees must go. The beginner niu»t guard against use that is made of them for table decorations, planting too many varieties. No one who has There is no other flower which is suitable for the a warm, deep soil will regret planting Cox's purpose that can be so easily grown and is ! Orange Pippin in quantity, and there is no better capable of giving such a long succession of late dessert Apple from this on to April than bloom. Improved culture and better varieties | Lord Burghley. E. H. Februaky 18, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 107 GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. VARIOUS SEEDS must now be sown in heat. Plants used for sub-tropical effect, and dot plants in carpet beddinj;, generally have to be ^'rown into a good size, and hardened off by planting-out time, so they should be sown first. The beautiful and useful Kochia scoparia is a splendid plant for such purposes, quickly forming pyramids of delicate green during summer, and changing to a lovely bronze in early autumn — quite an acquisition. Watering Seeds until germination and the formation of the rough leaf, especially minute ones with little or no soil or sand covering them, must be done with extreme care, so as not to wash away the seeds or cause the delicate seedlings to decay. We have dispensed altogether with the fine rose watering-can in these cases, but instead l)lunge pots, pans, or boxes in a tub uf water to within an inch or so of the rims, so that the water level is just below the surface of the soil. It is yet early enough to enter upon the general seed sowing in warmth, for compara- tively late sowing and growing on without a check is much better than earlier sowing, and then having to crib and cramp the plants to theirultimate detriment. Cuttings— Insert cuttings of Iresine, Alternantheras, Verbenas, Lobelias, and all such soft-wooded plants, as fast as they are produced. Succulent cuttings of these do not require trimming to a joint; such would be waste of stock, for each joint will make a cutting and subsequently a plant. Strike in brisk moist heat. Bedding Begonia Tubers may be placed in gentle heat to start. Spread thickly on a bed or in boxes, syringe freely, and as each tuber breaks into growth pot or put in boxes in light leafy material. Bring the planting of deciduous trees and shrabs to a close as early as possible, and defer further work of this kind until October (except- ing, of course, unavoidable arrears that must be completed). Complete the work by a thorough watering, efficient staking, and a good mulch. Most Evergreens are as well left until later, the showers and sunshine of April being more favourable for their removal than the harsh winds of March. It sometimes happens after the winter clearance of Laurels and other common shrubs that a sunny sheltered spot is revealed suitable for a E.OSE Bed. Should the soil be unsuitable provide fresh, the heavier for the stronger-gruwing bedders and Hybrid Perpetuals, and somewhat lighter for the more delicate Teas, thoroughly enriching it with manure or some good fertiliser. Trim the bruised and broken roots of the Roses, plant firmly, shorten theshont^, stake neatly, mulch with partly-decayed leaves, and affix permanent labels. TJte Gardens, Tan-if-bwlch. J. ROBERTS. FRUIT GARDEN. Tying and Training Fruit Trees.— This work should not be further delayed, as the buds are now growing and there will be danger of damaging them ; moreover, the shoots cannot be handled with the same freedom when the buds are prominent as before they commence to swell. In tying young trees see that the ties are not made tight. Another danger which must be averted is the main branches coming in contact with the wires. This is a common cause of canker, and likely to result in permanent injury to the trees. A tliin piece of wood placed between the branch and wire will prevent this evil. In the case of nailing, do not drive the nails so near the branches as to injure them. This also is often the cause of canker. Protecting Fruit Blossom. — The vagaries of our climate are such that it is necessary to have in readiness material for the protection of those crops which usually suffer first from the eft'ects of late frost. It is a good plan to have blinds temporarily fixed, which may be drawn up and down as the case needs. A double thickness of fish netting hung over the ti-ees will keep off several degrees of frost, and will also break the force of cold easterly winds. Spruce branches, Heather, or anything of a similar nature will answer the same purpose, and this should be at hand ready for immediate use. Grafting. —The stocks on which it is purposed to graft other varieties should now be headed back. The clay should be prepared some time in advance of the operation, and be turned and thoroughly mixed at intervals of two or three days, so that it will be in perfect condition when required. Cow manure may be mixed with the clay to the extent of a third of the whole. This will prevent cracking and tend to keep the clay moist. Whip-grafting is the mode most generally adopted. It may be done at any time now when the weather is favourable. It should be done as neatly and expeditiously as possible. Strawberry Plantations.— If old plantations have become overcrowded they should be thinned, so that the remaining plants may have sufficient room to develop. The quarters should be then lightly forked over. A good dressing of rotten manure will give renewed vigour to exhausted plants. If it is intended to make new planta- tions, no time should be lost in preparing the ground, which should be deeply trenched and enriched with rotten manure. The planting may be done as soon as the ground will permit. Cleaning Late Vines.— jVs the G-rapes in late houses have to hang on the Vines for a much longer period than others, these should be thoroughly cleaned before coming into growth. If they are infested with mealy bug, all loose bark should be carefully removed and the rods well washed with a mixture of soft soap and sulphur, 2oz. each I to a gallon of hoi waler. Thia may be leijealed juat before the buds commence to break. Thoroughly clean all wood- work and glass, and lime-wash the walls. The trellis should be painted with paraffin. E. Harrisb. Fruit Dt'partment, Jtoi/al Gardens, Windsor. ORCHIDS. Oelogynes.— In almost every garden where Orchids are cultivated plants of the well-known Cojlogyne cristata will now be in bloom. This very useful Orchid will succeed in almost any house where an intermediate temperature is maintained. It delights in a clear light, but not strong sunshine, when in full growth. Towards the completion of the new pseudo-bulbs it will enjoy direct sunshine ; when grown too shady the spikes rarely carry more than four or five flowers each instead of si.x or seven. While the plants are in bloom see that the flowers are kept free from damp, otherwise they quickly become spotted. C. lemoniana is a variety of 0. cristata, with lemon-coloured centre. It is a distinct and desirable variety, often pro- ducing eight or nine blooms on a spike. The pure white C. c. hololeuca alba is also a lovely variety ; now that plants are so cheap and plentiful it should be represented in every collection, and espe;ially where cut flowers are required in quantity. C. c. lemoniana and C. c. llololeuca come into bloom a few weeks later than C. cristata, thus prolongiug the Ccelo?yne season. After these plants have done flowering place them in the coolest part of the house, and afford only just sufticient water at the root as will prevent the succulent bulbs from shrivelling. C. barbata, C. rossiana, C. gardneriana, C. graminifolia, C. speciosa, 0. corrugata, C. conferta, C. Veitchii, C. elata, C. pulchella, and others which are commencing to grow may now be safely repotted should they require more root room. All of these species grow well in equal parts of fibrous peat and sphagnum moss, and, as none of them make a large quantity of roots, the pots or pans used should be small in comparison with the sizes of the plants. C. tomentosa, C. dayana, and C. massangeana are species with long racemes of 'flowers, and for these basket culture is preferable, as suspended from the roof their flowers are seen to the best advantage. C. flaccida should also be grown in a basket or shallow pan. This plant is now at rest, and should receive but little water at the root ; if kept too damp during this period the plant will fail to bloom satisfactorily. An intermediate temperature will suit the whole of these Ccelogynes admirably. 0. pandurata and 0. asperata Lowii, both hot-growing species, may be repotted after the flowers fade. Both are strong-growing plants, and very interesting when in bloom, but their size is against them where space is a consideration. Plants of the winter-blooming ANGR-ECOJI SESQUIPEDALE, A. EBURSEUM, and A. PER- TUSU3I, which have recently passed out of flower, are already commencing to push out their long fleshy roots. These should, if requisite, receive immediate attention by repotting or resurfacing. The potting material, treatment, Ac, should in every respect be as advised in my last calendar for Aerides. In The Catileya House plants of Cattleya Trian* and its many beautiful distinct varieties are either in bloom or fast pushing up their flower-buds, which, where a number of plants are cultivated, will make the house gay and attractive for some time to come. Those plants which are now pushing their flower-buds up through the sheaths should have a little extra water at the root, but when the blooms are fully expanded less will suffice. If kept too wet at the root the flowers soon lose their freshness, and the tips of the sepals quickly damp off. C. lawrenceana is also prominently showing its flower-buds in the sheath, and until Ihe flowers open should receive rather more water at the root, and be elevated well up to the roof in the warmest part of the house. Plants of the two species of Cattleyas enumerated should, after the flowers fade, be kept fairly dry at the root, and may be repotted soon after growth commences. Burford Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. KITCHEN GARDEISr. ASPARAGOS is one of the oldest and most delicately- flavoured vegetables. To grow Asparagus successfully plenty of space must be allowed, and the bed alwa.vs kept free from weeds. Beds that were cleaned and mulched with manure in the autumn may now have the long strawy manure raked off and cleared away ; but unless in very exposed situations, and where the soil is of a light sandy nature, Asparagus is better without any winter covering. Mulchings of manure retain moisture, consequently the roots areinjured by cold and growth retarded. The surface of the beds should now be lightly and carefully stirred up without disturbance to roots or crowns. With measuring rod and line make the beds and alleys square and trim. Beds that were top-dressed with wood ashes last spring will benefit by a dressing of basic slag now ; another year it will be found very advantageous to have the same beds top-dressed with a different stimulant, as Asparagus, like many another thing, enjoys a change of food. To lengthen the season of this valuable vegetable, sturdy roots well furnished with crowns may now be introduced into a house with gentle bottom-heat and a surface temperature of about 60°. When the hot-bed appears diy moisten thoroughly with tepid water, and sprinkle slightly with sulphate of potash, and wash in with more tepid water. As light and air are very essential elements in the pro- duction of good Asparagus, it will be found at this season an easy matter to excite it into active growth, its flavour will also more nearly resemble that grown on the open bed. Cabbages that were sown last August and pricked out into rows in September should now be ready for planting out in permanent quarters when the ground and weather are fa/ourable. Plant where a root crop, such as Onions, was previously grown, fork the ground lightly over to break it up where necessary, level the surface, mark off the rows from 20 inches to 24 inches apart, according to the variety and the richness of the soil, then draw out shallow drills with the hoe, and plant the Cabbages from lo inches to 18 inches from plant to plant. Parsley being always in demand an early sowing may now be made. In many gardens the cultivation of this useful herb is extremely simple, while in others ithaa been- found difficult to maintain a moderate supply. Here I find it does best on ground that is not too damp and that has been well manured the previous year. Let the ground be lightlyforked over and then trodden firmly as if furOnions. Before drawing out the rows, which should be 12 inches apart, sow the seed neither very thick norveiy deep, and cover with fine soil. Cover more Rhubarb in sufficient quantity to keep up the supply. Put more Seakale into heat according to requirements, place a few Seakale pots- on crowns in the open, and fill up with ashes. Lift clumps of Mint and Tarragon plant in boxes, and set in a gentle heat. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. RECENT PLANT PORTRAITS. The Botanical Magazine for February contains- portraits of Yucca Guatemalensis. — A fine large flower of a. greenisli while shade of colour, and so like all other members of its family that it was hardly worth giving up a large double plate to, which might have been better employed in portrayinga more interesting plant. Tulipa linifoUa.^Na.tive of Turkestan. This is a most brilliant and beautiful Tulip, with, curiously twisted, wavy, narrow foliage, some of the leaves appearing above the middle of the flower-stjra. Angdonia integerrima. — Native of Brazil and Paraguay. This is, perhaps, the prettiest of the- twent}'-six species of this genus, with curiously- shaped white pouch-like flowers with purple lip. Bulbophylhim cremdatum. — Native of Mada- gascar. An Orchid of no beauty and merely botanical interest. Gnidia polystachia. — Native of South Africa. This is an extremely pretty greenhouse shrub with a great profusion of bunches of small yellow flowers, borne at the ends of short braochlets, all up the stem. It was long ago figured in this magazine on plate 1463, under the name oE G. imberbis, but was then not done anything like full justice to. The specimen now figured cams from the Cambridge University Botanic Garden. The first number of La Renie HorlicoU for February figures Musa paradisaica car. rubra. — A handsome form of the fruiting Banana, with deep red foliage. The Fobruary number of Ecvue de I'Hortim culture Bilge figures yicotiana Sanderai. — A fine deep red shade of this most free-blooming new hybrid annual, and Arbutui Unedo, the common form of the so- called Strawberry Tree. W. K. Gdmeleton. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. SCARLET RUNNER BEANS. 1FIND in a leading wholesale seed catalogue as many as eight reputed distinct varieties of the "Scarlet Runner Bean. They are the common Scarlet, Champion Scarlet, Hill's Prize Scarlet or Kentish Invicta, Girtford or Wiltshire Giant Scarlet, Ne Plus Ultra, Titan Scarlet, Sutton's Best of All, and a new variety Hackwood Park Success, which is being offered as a novelty by Messrs Veilch and Sons, Chelsea. To these can be added Sutton's Al and a new early prolific market variety named Marvel, which is being offered by Messrs. Watkins and Simpson of Covent Garden. Both of these last-named new varieties claim to be unusually early in bearing and very prolific, producing their Beans in large clusters. Earliness and prolificacy in Runner Beans are most desirable qualities, and 108 THE GARDEN [February 18, 1905. mprovements in these directions are highly desirable. The handsomest exhibition Scarlet Runner Bean I have seen in the few last seasons is Sutton's Beat of All. It is long, shapely from «nd to end, and very handsome in appearance. Neal, who obtained Xe Plus Ultra, once informed me that it cost him fifteen years persistent selection, and his work is a proof of the patience a gardener can bring to bear upon attaining an ideal he has set before him. It is a performance well_deserving a record. R. D. DRY SUMMERS AND FORCING ASPARAGUS. For years I have observed that the forced roots of Asparagus are not nearly so good when the season in which the crowns were formed was dry and hot. This year forced roots do not compare at all favourably with those of last year. Few vegetables require more moisture when forming the new crowns for another season than Asparagus, and this not only affects plants that are lifted and forced, but permanent roots for the supply from the open ground, as the reduced size of crown will show that the yield will be poorer. Of course, plants in heavy land or good holding loam suffer less from drought than those in light soil resting on gravel. When Asparagus is in active growth irrigation is a splendid thing, invaluable to the grower, and a means by'which forced roots can be much improved. Those who form new beds would do well to get the best possible soil conditions as regards depth and absence of gravel. These points are quite as important as manuring — the latter may be overdone. G. W. S. methods of cooking, and few roots are better for soups and gravies. It should be remembered that once the plant is grown it will reappear from the smallest portion of root, and doubtless that is one reason why the plants are not given new quarters so often as they deserve. It is an easy matter, however, to clear the soil if care is taken when digging. Always purchase or save good seed, trusting nothing that will not give shapely roots, and change the stock when disease is probable or the plants fail to crop well. February and March are the best months to plant. There must be a space of 3 feet between the rows and 12 inches between the sets. More room may be given if available, and planting may also be done much earlier. Cover the sets with (3 inches of soil and leave the tubers in their growing quarters, digging them up as required or clamp them in the same way as Potatoes are frequently treated ; they are best when not housed in a warm store, but kept as cool as possible. T. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. This Artichoke will grow in any soil, but is most successful in a deep, well-manured friable loam and open situation. We enjoy it in winter as a change from Potatoes, and since Messrs. Sutton introduced the smoother while tuber, which has fewer eyes, and is of better flavour than the older types, the Jerusalem Artichoke is regarded with greater favour. It is profitable for the reason that though it needs considerable space the crop is in proportion. Many object to this root when served in the same way as Potatoes, but there is no need to do this. There are quite a dozen RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Ans\veps.— T/io Editor intends to make THE GAKl'EN lalp/ul to all n'aders who desire asitiet- ance, no matter what the branch o/ gardening may be, and with that object loill make a special feature of the " Answers to Cm-respondents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely uvitten on one tide of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of THE Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on busi- tiess should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Najies of Plants. — An.rions. — 1, Pteris serru- lata major ; 2, completely shrivelled up, impos- sible to name ; 3, Adiantum concinnum latum ; 4, Adiantum Moorei ; 5, apparently Selaginella cuspidata ; 6. a much-crested foim of Pteris Wimsetti ; 7, Pteris cretica albo-lineata ; 8, Pteris serrulata cristata ; 9, Asplenium bulbi- ferum ; 10, Pteris serrulata; 11, Pteris Wim- setti. Specimens without name of sender. — JERUSALEM ARTlCHOlvES. 1, Sciadopitys verticillata ; 2, Abiei pectinata ; 3. Pinus contorta. C. J. C. — Kerme's Oak (Querous coccifera). W. G. M. — The Fiery Thorn (Craticgua Pyracantha). T. W. (Pole- gate). — 1, Libonia floribunda; 2, Iris fimbriata ; 3, Eoheveria seounda. Names of Fruits. — W. ./. J. — Apple Cornish Aromatic. A. B. S. — 1, Peasgood's Nonsuch ; 2, Reinette du Canada ; 3, Smart's Prince Arthur ; 4, .5, and 0, these are several forms of King of the Pippins ; 7, Dumelow's Seedling ; S, Reinette Grise. /. H. — The address is 42, Ranelagh Road, West Ealing, W. Pit against a Wall {F. W. Phillips).— Wo should not attempt to make a gangway in the pit, but make it all bed. The flow and return pipes should be covered with slates and placed about 1 foot beneath them. At its lowest point the glass should be about 12 inches to 18 inches above the bed. Allow the moisture to drain away naturally, unless the ground is damp and water collects. Have the pipes the whole length of the pit, but place valves halfway along so that the heat can be turned off one-half when neces- sary. You do not say what you want the pit for. For growing many half-hardy plants it should be very useful. We do not see how you can get a pathway in, it is too narrow. You must leaVH the bottom part empt}'. Arrange the pipes and the slates above them so that the slates will not be more than, say, 4 feet from the roof glass at the deepest side of the pit. Then whatever plants you grow will be fairly near the glass. If you want a pathway in the pit the retaining wall you propose to build must be another 2 feel away so as to give room for it. Ants on Lawns (Bayfield). — We think that Carter's Worm Killer, which has been found so efficacious for destroying worms on lawns where they have become so numerous as to spoil the appearance of the grass would probably prove of value in ridding your lawns of ants. Not only does this kill the worms, but it also has a stimu- lating effect on the grass, so that it serves a two-fold purpose. If anj' reader of The Garden can recommend something better than this, perhaps he would kindly send a note. Culture of Cielogyne cristata [Constant Reader). — You give us no idea of the accommo- dation you have for growing this most useful Orchid, so we take it for granted that you have a suitable house. It thrives well at the warm end of the Odontoglossum house. During the growing season the atmosphere should be moist and the water supply liberal ; ample drainage is therefore necessary. If the compost gets at all in a sour or stagnant condition they will not thrive. When the bulbs have finished developing the supply of water j^ should be decreased and the atmo- sphere of the house kept rather drier. Keep them supplied with sufficient water to prevent their shrivelling, and especially is this necessary when they are in flower. After the flowers are over the new growths soon begin to show. \'ou must then be very careful that no water is allowed to get in them, for they very easily damp off'. We find Ciclogyne cristata to grow best in large, shallow Orchid pots or pan.-. Take care to raise the sphagnum moss and peat into a fair-sized mound, so as to enable the grow ths to extend and the bulbs to develop. We think you will find they grow better in pans than in baskets. To have a succession of bloom you might remove some of the plants as Febkuaky 18, 1905.] TTTK ClARDEN. 109 sooa as the flower-spikes show to a warmer house, and give them rather more water. This will bring them on considerably. We hope these remarks will assist you. Taking care that the water does not enter the young growths which begin to appear when the flowers are open is most important, for if this takes place the plants must deteriorate. The growths and bulbs must be made firm on the compost, pegging them down with wire. Give a warm moist atmosphere when they are growing, i.e., during summer, and plenty of water at the root. During autumn and winter less water, both at the root and in the atmosphere, is needed. If there is any special point in their culture that puzzles you write again. Hardy Climeeks {^4. B. C). — You could have nothing better than Clematis montana, which flowers in May, for your early one, and C. Flammula or C. Vitalba (the Traveller's Joy), which bloom from July to September. They are beautiful in fruit as well as in flower, and all are vigorous growers. It would not harm them at all to plant them together, so that the shoots were interlaced. You might try the Wistaria ; the onl}' one worth trying would be W. sinensis, the common though very beautiful one. Roses Griiss an Teplitz, Caroline Testout, Grace Darling, and E. V. Hermanos would suit you, but not Reve d'Or. NicoTTANA Sander.^;; (F. P. Richard-<).— The seed of Nieotiana Sander* should be sown towards the end of February or early in March. The pot or pan must be quite clean and effectually drained with broken crocks. Then fill to within half an inch of the rim with equal parts of loam and well-decayed leaf-mould, with some silver sand. Pick out the roughest pieces, make the soil level, fairly firm, and moist. Sprinkle the seeds thinly on the moistened soil, and cover with a little fine soil, only enough being used to put the seeds out of sight. Placed in a temperature of 50° to 60° they will soon germinate, and when the young plants are large enough to handle conveniently they may be pricked off into other pans or pots, using the same kind of soil as before. Then, when large enough, pot singly into small pots, and when established therein shift into larger ones, still keeping them in the greenhouse. When all danger from frost is over these Niootianas may be planted out of doors. Twelve Varieties or Tcwted Pansies FOR Exhibition {J. 31. C). — These are now not grown largely for exhibition. You must remember that the plants of the large exhibi- tion varieties do not flower as freely and as consistently as those described as tufted sorts for ordinary border displays. Good exhibition sorts are Mrs. T. W. R. Johnston, upper petals mauve, under petals glossy black blotched with mauve, clean eye, and white brows ; Mother Doulton, magenta centre, shading out to pink, upper petals pink, shading out to white, very large flower of splendid form ; Minnie J. OUar, creamy white, heavily edged with plum purple ; Mrs. P. Braithwaite, mauve centre, shading to white, a very large flower ; Wood- cock, white centre, with lilac border, slightly rayed, a very fine flower ; Miss Anna Callan, a very smooth flower of good size and beautiful form, colour pale lavender; Mrs. Chichester, an immense flower of good form, colour white I ground, flaked and marbled purple ; Mrs. [ MoPhail, a distinct flower, colour rosy heliotrope, ' .'self, deepening towards the centre to pale violet ; excellent for competitions ; Sunbeam, a very distinct flower of the highest quality, and a plant that has a good habit ; free - flowering variety, the colour of the blooms may be described as rayless cream yellow, edged lilac. Another fine flower is Mrs. Cooper ; the flowers are very large and rayless, colour cream centre, beautifully marked rosy purple border, good habit ; Mrs. J. Johnston, dark rosy purple centre, shading to light rose-pink, upper petal light rose-pink also, a large smooth flower ; and Lady Grant, a new sort, colour white centre, slightly rayed, heavily edged deep bluish purple ; a great acquisition. Potatoes and Wireworm (Reader). — Turf land when converted into arable land invariably gives the cultivator trouble as regards the presence of wireworm, but they disappear, how- ever, in the course of a few years as the land becomes better cultivated. If you do not mind a little extra cost in labour, we should advise trenching the land, say 18 inches or 2 feet deep, adding a liberal dressing of horse manure, sav one cartload to four poles (this should be placed on the top of the bottom layer of soil, not at the bottom of the trench). Gas lime and soot are the best antidotes against the presence of wireworm, and these should be applied in small quantities as the trenching proceeds, giving a light sprinkling only over each trench as the soil is turned over. The soil being light, and resting on a well-drained bottom with the treatment recommended, should return you heavy crops of unblemished Potatoes. The crop would be improved by the addition of a light sprinkling of nitrate of soda applied in showery weather when the Potato crops are about 5 inches high, and again before the tops meet in the row. The sets should be planted at least IS inches apart in the row. The applica- tion of a green crop to the land, such as mustard, is to be commended whenever practicable ; but salt is a dangerous ingredient to add, and should never be applied only as a light top-dressing in spring, and then only by someone experienced in its application. Nitrate of soda is a good substitute. Plants for Small Pond (Aquatic). — You will secure the best results by planting some of the newer Water Lilies, though it is possible in three or four years that some would become too large and would then have to be reduced. These would be best placed in the deeper part of the pond, and a few inches, say two or three barrow- fuls of soil thrown in to give them a start. With the soil in position affix the plants to a stone or brick, and sink near the centre. The following are of the best : Nymph.-ea Marliacea carnea, N. M. chromatella, N. Laydeckeri lucida ; the colours are, respectively, white and flesh, yellow, and soft vermilion, with brilliant orange stamens in the last named. To the foregoing you should add Sagittaria variabilis fl.-pl. , a water plant with white blossoms like a huge double Stock and sharply pointed leaves, both of which stand well out of the water. You would require, perhaps, six of these. If you add any more it should be only for temporary effect, and Nymph;ea odorata grandiflora and N. o. rosacea would do well. Y'ou may still further enhance the beauty of the pond by growing in pots Iris Ktempferi in variety, so placing the pots that the base just reaches the water. The margin could also be planted with Campanulas and other low-growing alpiues. Vegetable Crops Among Trees [James Rohb). Our correspondent's experience is rather a novel one, having to grow vegetables among forest trees, such as Beech and Sycamore. From a cultural point of view we should suggest that the Beech and Sycamore be grubbed up, and the land on which they stand be trenched and manured. Not only do their roots rob the ground, but their shade deprives the crops of the first essential principle of growth, namely, sunshine and light. However, as we presume a compromise has to be made between the vegetables and the trees, we would recommend deep trenching and liberal manuring of the ground, adding a quantity of heavy marly soil. Nitrate of soda we have found the best artificial manure to apply in conjunction with farmyard manure. Two slight dressings should be given in the course of the growing season, in showery weather if possible, to Potatoes when they are 5 inches or 6 inches high, and again before the hauliu meet in the rows ; to Peas and Sweet Peas when they are the same height, and again just as they come into flower ; treat Cauliflowers and Beans the same. Give the first dressing when they have well started into growth, and the second when they are three parts grown. As regards Strawberries better results we think will be obtained by watering these with weak liquid manure water (from cow manure), and on such light land as yours a watering once o r twice a week in summer would be none too much, and should result in doubling your crop of fruit, especially if your plants receive a good surfacs mulch of rich manure early in the season. Exhibiting Vegetables (A. JtJorris). — In The Garden for the following dates Mr. E. Beckett wrote a series of articles about exhibiting vegetables: March 1, March 8. March 15, March ^i, March 29, and April 12, 1902. ,You will find those to be just what you want. Meaning of the Word Pergola (Novice). — Pergola is the Italian word which expresses a kind of open colonnade of rough pillars, built of any material that comes to hand, over which Vines are trained. A variety of Grape called P6rgol(5s4 is much grown in some districts in Italy, from which, in all probability, the pergola, or vine arbour, has derived its name. Its use is not confined to Grape culture, as it is a frequent addition to Italian gardens, forming a shaded walk or resting place in summer heat. Of late years this form of garden adornment has found great favour in England, and it may make a very charming feature when well carried out and where the surroundings are in accord, but it is not suitable for every position. The construction ought to be somewhat massive to give the true effect. Illustrations of some of the best e.xamples of pergola are from time to time given in The Garden. ' ] Fragrant Roses (M. If.). — Among the sweetest-scented Hybrid Perpetual Roses are the following : General Jacqueminot (red). Beauty of Waltham (cherry), Alfred Colomb (bright red). Dr. Andry (rich red), A. K. Williams (crimson), Charles Lefebvre (dark crimson), Senateur Vaisse (rich red), Fisher Holmes (crimson), Louis Van Houtte (deep crimson), Henrich Schultheis (rosy pink), Magna Charta (deep pink), Ulrich Brunner (red), Mrs. John Laing (pink), Marie Beauman (red), Maurice Bernardin (black crim- son), and IPrince Arthur (red). You should not omit the silvery pink Hybrid Tea Li France. Planting Victoria Cross Bed (C. T.). — You do not give the size or shape of the proposed bed, but we presume it will be round, and make the following suggestion for its planting. Plant the cross itself in the centre with Begonia Lafayette (the cross to be effective should be a large one),_ a plant bearing intense and brilliant crimson flowers. The plant is rather a slow grower, and should be not more than 10 inches apart. The edge of the bed should be planted with a deep, border of Alternanthera magnifica or pink Ivy- leaved Geranium, and the remaining part of the bed surrounding the cross with a bright silver- leaved Geranium, such as Bright Star or any other similar variety available. These Geraniums should be planted 15 inches apart, and between each should be a light blue Viola. The flowers of these will commingle with the foliage of the silver Geranium, and will produce a beautiful effect. Should you be unable to procure the Begonias for the cross you may substitute a bright, cheerful scarlet Geranium, not the dark scarlet. Melons and Peaches (Camfo.).— You cannot do better than grow Melons Hero of Lockinge- and Royal Sovereign, both white flesh varieties, Blenheim Orange, and Frogmore Scarlet (scarlet flesh). Of Peaches grow Royal George, Crimson, Galande, and Princess of Wales. I 110 THE GARDEN. [February 18, 1905. Refuse if Acetvlene Gas (H. P Powel). — I do DOt knew of any use that you can put the refuse of your acetyline gas to. Its action on the soil would be very much the same as lime, but there are various impurities in it which might probably be deleterious to plant life. You might easily make some experiments, and if carefully carried out the result would be very interesting to many persons who are asking the same question. — G. S. S. Creepeks for W.^ll (Lewin Jones). — You cannot do better than plant the small-leaved Virginian Creeper (Ampelopsis Veitchii). It clings to the wall without nailing, grows quickly, and the leaves are a lovely colour in autumn. The Wistaria is another good plant for the purpose. Of berried plants you might plant the Pyracantha, which bears a profusion of bright coloured berries in winter. Ceanothus veitohianus with blue flowers is to be recom- mended. Then, of course, there is Ivy ; some of the forms are very pretty. Of Roses Gloire de Dijon, B-eine Marie Henriette (red), and Mme. Alfred Carrii!-re (white) would doubtless grow well with you. An important point is to give the plants some good soil in which to grow. The bed should not be less than 2 feet deep, and, say, 2 feet wide. Pat broken bricks in the bottom for drainage ; enrich the soil with manure. Keep the Roses and Ceanothus on the west side. Damsons AND Apples {Graft). — The only thing we can suggest is that you should cut down the seedling Apples and Damsons and graft some good varieties upon them. You may take grafts from the seedling plants, but unless you are quite sure they are good varieties it will only be so much labour wasted. Growing seedling Apples and Damsons is not worth the trouble, for grafted trees of good sorts can be had cheaply. If you ■do not wish either to cut the trees down and use them as stocks, or to cut oS' the shoots and graft them on other stocks, the only thing to do is to transplant the trees and prune the largest and coarsest roots. This would probably hasten their fruiting. If, however, the trees are large and have been undisturbed for some years there would be some danger in transplanting them. With regard to the Walnut grafting is seldom practised in this country ; it used to be thought impracticable, but that has been disproved. The French graft the trees when the stems are from 3J inches to 5 inches in circumference. The sap must be in full flow at the time of grafting ; March is the best time. Have you tried trans- planting, say, every two years ': This brings them into bearing more quickly. Forcing Potatoes in Frames or Pots (./. W. B.). — If you have Potato tubers by you the first thing to do is to get them sprouted in gentle warmth and in full light. \'ou would do well, if you have none, at once to obtain medium- sized clean tubers of Ringleader, Sharpe's Victor, Harbinger, May Queen, or other first early variety having fairly dwarf tops, setting them with the bud or crown ends upwards in shallow boxes. Put some Cocoanut fibre refuse, fine soil, or ashes in the bottom of each box first, then put in the tubers quite close together, sprinkle them, and stand in the light. If you have no room in the greenhouse place them close to a room window. For pot culture get pots 10 inches across. Put into each one a stout bottom crock, over that some half-decayed manure or droppings, then some of the coarser soil, filling each pot with a compost of good pasture loam well sweetened by a few months' exposure in a heap two-thirds, the other third being composed of old hot-bed manure, leaf-soil, a little soot, and also just a handful to each pot of bone-flour. When the tubers have sprouted remove all bat the strongest shoots, then with a trowel plant one tuber 3 inches deep in the centre of each pot, cover up with soil, and genllj' water. Xater the chief work will be found in watering, sticking a few pieces of wood sprays in round the sides of the pots to keep the haalm erect, and adding, as tubers show, a little top soil to each plant. These plants should have ample light and air, and to keep up good growth a gentle heat of from 50° to .55°. To grow in a frame some bottom-heat is needful. Make up a proper bed of stable manure and tree leaves, place a frame on that, and fill in some 7 inches to S inches of good soil as for the pots. Plant the tubers as prepared with a trowel 1'2 inches apart as soon as the first strong heat of the bed begins to subside. Give a good watering with tepid water and shut down close. Later pack long manure all round the frame to keep in the heat. Gooseberry Saw-fly (E. J. Owoi).— If your Gooseberry bushes are attacked bv the grubs of the Ciooseberry Saw-fly (Nematus Ribesii), by far the best means of destroying this pest is to skim off not less than 2 inches of the soil beneath the bushes, and either burn it or bury it deeply, replacing it with fresh soil, for when the grubs are full grown they fall to the ground, bury themselves, and become chrysalides about 2 inches from the surface. It is quite certain that this pest passes the winter in this manner and in no other, so that if this plan be properly carried out your bushes will be free from the pest next summer, unless they are infected by saw-flies which have been bred in a neighbour's garden. This is by no means improbable, if their Goose- berry bushes were badly affected last year, and if they did not take efficient steps to destro}' the insects the saw-flies may fly from their garden to yours. Y'ou had better as soon as the leaves open examine them well, and if you notice any small holes as if they had been pricked by a coarse pin the bushes should be sprayed with a solution of paraffin emulsion, Abol, or Antipest, taking care that the undersides of the leaves are well wetted. Basting the leaves while wet with dew with finely- powdered lime is also useful. Spraying the bushes with Paris green, or dusting them with Hellebore powder is much recommended, but as both are very strong poisons great care should be taken in using them, and the other remedies are quite harmless and very satisfactory. As regards the white blight on your Apple tree, it is very likely Sphaerotheca mali ; if it is, dusting the leaves with two parts of flowers of sulphur and one part of slaked lime, or spraying with loz. of sulphide of potassium dissolved in 2,V gallons of , water are the best remedies. — G. S. S. Raisino Begonia Seed (.^4 New Reader).— No seedsman as far as we are aware offers seed of Begonia worthiana, but dormant bulbs which can be sent by post for a few pence are readily obtainable at this season, and at a moderate price. We cannot learn of this variety producing good seed, and even if it did a certain amount of varia- tion would probably exist among the progeny. There is only one kind of B. worthiana, but there are other varieties somewhat in the same way which can also be used for bedding purposes. The typical B. boliviensis is much like it, and so is Cannell's Scarlet, while a variety offered by MM. Vilmorin-Andrieux of Paris (Bertini) is said to be superior to worthiana. Imported Amaryllis Bulbs (J. R. T.).—The Amaryllis bulbs should be potted with as little delay as possible, choosing for the purpose pots sufficiently large to allow about an inch of space between the bulb and side of the pot. A mixture of two parts loam, to one part each of leaf-mould, or failing this peat, well-decayed cow manure in a dry state, and silver sand forms a very suitable compost. Care must be taken that the different ingredients are thoroughly incorporated together. In potting the soil should be pressed down moderately firm, and the bulb placed at such a depth that the top is just above the surface of the soil. After potting a suitable place for this Amaryllis is a glass structure, where a night temperature of 50° to 55° ia maintained, rising 10° or so during the day, and more with bright sunshine. When potted a watering may be given in order to settle everything in its place, but after this little will be required before the young leaves or flower-stem begin to push. By this time the roots will be active and a good deal of water needed. As your bulbs at present contain the embryo flower all that is needed for its development is to place it under favourable conditions, but in order to ensure flowers for next year it must, after flowering, now be kept watered as before till the leaves commence to turn yellow, which will probably be in the latter half of the summer. When this takes place the plants must be fully exposed to the sun, and the supply of water gradually diminished till by October they will in all probability be quite dormant. From then thej' may be kept quite dry in a temperature of 45° to 55° or thereabouts till next February, when they will readily respond to a little addi- tional heat and moisture. If the roots are in good condition they will not need repotting next year. Use of Gas Lime (IF. B. R.). — Gas lime applied at the rate of ilb. to lib. per square yard is a valuable agent in sweetening the soil and killing wireworms and other insects, but no crop can be grown on the ground with safety for nine months after the application. The best time to apply it is in early autumn. Although it may seem waste of time, we think you would find it best in the end to devote your attention to killing the crops of weeds during the coming spring and summer. Manure the ground in early autumn and then plant. Y'ou can grow annual flowers this season so as not to have a flowerless garden. Just cover the lime with soil and leave it for two weeks before forking it in as you suggest. Do not, however, plant perennials, as by doing so you run a great risk of losing them. With annuals no permanent harm could be done. Planting a Vinery ((?. T.). — It is not wise to plant many Vines on the wall side of a three- quarter span vinery ; you will never get any Grapes from them worth having until they reach the glass. The lower part of the Vines will be shaded by those planted at the front of the vinery as soon as they have covered the trellis. Wo should plant the varieties Trebbiano, Barbarossa, and Black Alicante against the wall, and as soon as the growths reach the glass train them above the pathway north and south instead of ea^t and west. The other varieties you mention could be planted at the front of the house and trained up the trellis towards the span in the direction eait and west. Y'ou do not say how old the canes are, but we presume they have not more than two seasons' growth. You must cut them back according to their strength ; better cut them back too far than not far enough. A good foundation is everything. It is difficult to give you a height without seeing the Vines, but we should adviae cutting them down to a height of 4 feet or 5 feel. Leave the strongest 5 feet, and the weakest 4 feet. Yes, cut them all back ; you mast make them grow strongly. Your border seems all right, and the soil is quite good enough without any animal manure. You can top-dress later with rich soil if necessary. Keep the uppermost roots within about 4 inches of the surface ; it is a very bad practice to bury them as you suggest. Place the roots carefully out in layers, covering eacli one with soil as the work proceeds. They should be laid flat, or inclining upwards a little ; they must not point downwards. Make each layer i^f roots and soil firm as the work proceeds. Vinof never grow well in a loose border. We shouUi like to say that you are making a great mistake in trying to grow so many sorts in the sani'i vinery. Some of them — for instance, Muscat i^f Alexandria and Gros Colmar — need a bight r temperature than some of the others, and will not ripen their fruit satisfactorilv in a tempera- ture suitable to the others. You would get much more satisfactory results bj' growing fewer varieties. FfBRUARY 18, HJ05.J THE G-AKDEN. XI. QUESTION. Willow Tebe. — Information Wanted. — Is it possible to procure slips of Willow from Willow trees that were grown from cuttings or slips from the Willow tree that grew beside Napoleon's grave in St. Helena ? The original tree is now dead. I heard of one such Willow tree that flourished for some years in Aberdeenshire, and is now dead. Another one grew in the garden of the Roebuck Hotel, Richmond. The kitchens now occupy the ground that was formerly a garden. I believe that another tree flourished in a garden which sloped down to the river, where Lady Londonderry used to give Rose fcles half a century ago. The house was subsequently occu- pied by a family of the name of Duncan, Is this garden and the Willow tree in it still in existence, and, if so, would the owner permit slips to be taken from it? — Enquikek. LATE NOTES. The Veitch Memorial Trust.— At a meeting of the trustees, held on the 9th inst. , it was resolved that the sum of £50 be presented to the trustees of the Lindley Library for the general purposes of the Trust. A bronze medal and £5 are uttered for competition at the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Show, on September 13 to 15 next, for six dishes of fruit, flavour and quality to be the primary consideration. A similar prize and medal is to be awarded for the three most distinct kinds in anj' one of the exhibits of vegetables, the object being to reward superior cultivation. Silver medals are also oft'died for improved methods of packing and transmitting garden and orchard produce, and for improved methods of affording shelter and protection to outdoor plants, as well as of heating, ventilating, and shading glass structures. Orig'init.of Chrysanthemum Tuxedo. — This Chrysanthemum was raised by Mr. Spaulding of New Jersey, U.S.A. 1 imported it in May, 1902. Colonel W. B. Smith, G. W. Childs, and several others (which are forgotten) were sent over the same season. I believe Messrs. Pitcher and Manda introduced the two latter about the same time with Lord Brooke. — W. Wells, Earlswood, Redhill. Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund. An unusual state of affairs was disclosed at the annual general meeting of this fund, held at Simpson's, Strand, on the 10th inat. Instead of there being as many vacancies as candidates, thereby necessitating no actual election, as has usually been the case, this year there were thirty- one candidates and only fifteen vacancies. The chairman had also to draw attention t—« decrease in the annual receipts, and made the serious statement that, had it not been for the generous subscription list at the last annual festival dinner, they would probably have had to face a deficit for the year. We hope that all who have the interests of the orphans of gardeners at heart will rally to the support of this most worthy fund, and do all in their power to maintain and also to increase the number of annual subscribers. We believe that a certain amount of apathy has existed towards the Gardeners' Orphan Fund simply because there have usually been no more candidates than vacancies. Now, however, things have changed, and this year no less than sixteen deserving orphans have not been elected owing to lack of more funds. Thus it is clearly shown that there is urgent need that the subscriptions should not only not decrease, but should increase. We therefore draw attention to the report of the meeting. Mr. Brian Wynne, Wellington Street, Strand, is the secretary. SOCIETIES. SOUTHAMPTON ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The a:inub.l general meetini^ Qf the abuve society was held in Iht; Cuancil Chain^ei ui the Municipal Offices, on the Cth inst., the Mayor, Colonel E. Bance, D.L., J. P., presidinfj:. The annual report was presented, of which the following is a digest. It stated that the council considers the society's Ilnancial position sutiafactory, in view uf the general depression that has prevailt^d. After detailing the events which led up to theamaigamaLion of the Southern Counties Carnation Society with this society, the report puints out that the financial result of the Carnation shuw fully justified the action taken l3y the council in the matter. The exhibitions of the past season had each a record entry. The sutnnier show was more largely attended than usual, and all the exhibits were highly satisfactory. The Carna- tion show secuied a record gate as well as a record entry. In this connexion the council express their appreciation of the great interest Mr. W. Garton, jtin. (formerly hun. secretary of the Southern Counties Carnation Society) took in this show, as without his assistance it would have been impossible to have secured so signal a success. The Chrysanthemum show was unquestionably the l>est of the long series of autumn shows held by this society, and whilst the Chrysanthemums are spoken of as being remarkable, thefruitraade thegrandestdisplay everstaged by this society. Unfortunately, the attendance was not satisfactory, ao that there was a loss on this exhibition. The council regret the loss of over sixty members during the past season, and solicit the co-operation of the sub- scribers to increase the list. The report concludes by tendering the grateful thanks of the council to various patrons and piize donors. The followitig is an abstract of the accounts presented (the subscriptions being apportioned to each show) : Receipts. Expenditdke. & s. d. £ s. d. From 1903.. .. I.t 4 9 Summer show ..211 1 5 Summer show .. 210 1 6 Carnai inn show . . 131 (i 2 Carnation show .. 147 14 2 Autumn show ,. 204 0 7 Autumn show .. 193 10 S Manasement .. SO 3 10 Management .. SO 3 10 Kew material .. 12 S U Cr. balance .. 16 14 11 £601 14 11 £661 14 11 Value of Assets- Cash Material £ s. d. 91 14 11 50 lU 6 Liabilities nil. £142 It was stated at the meeting that Sir Samuel Montagu, Bart., had again placed his grounds at the disposal of the society tor a garden fete, which will be held in July. All the retiring niHcers were re-elected. The president, Sir S. Montagu, Bart., for the fifteenth time, and the secretary Mr. C. S. Fuidge, for the thirty-second time. ROYAL GARDENERS' ORPHAN FUND. The annual meeting was held at Simpson's, Si rand, on tlie 10th inst., Mr. H. B. May presiding over an attendance of about forty. Among those present were Messrs. H. J. Veitch, \V. Marshall, \V. Poupart, J. ¥. McLeod. E. T. Cook, J. Asbee, Joseph Rochford, H. Alderson, \V. Bates, \V. Howe, W. Bull, W. Cutbush, G. Reynolds, and others. The secretary having read the minutes convening the meeting and the minutes of the last annual general meeting, the annual report from which we make the following extracts was taken as read. Annual Report. In presenting their seventeenth annual report the executive committee has again the pleasure of congratu- lating the supporters of the fund upon a year's record of steady progress and enhanced usefulness. They could have heartily welcomed a larger measure of tinancial support, especially from the class whose children alone derive the benefits of the fund, but in the face of the "hard times" it is a matter for congratulation ihati the revenue (exclusive of legacies, ttc.) shows an increase of some £35. There has been a slight increase in annual subscriptions, which is unhappily considerably more than counterbalanced by the falling oft" under the general heading of donations. This the committee greatly deplores for the reason that the deficiency is attributable mainly to the smaller amounts obtained by means of collecting boxesv the sale of flowers, &c., at exhibitions, musical entertainments, and the opening of private gardens for the beneflt of the fund. On the other hand, the collection at (and in consequence of) the annual festival amounted to a larger sum than has resulted from any festival held since 1896. The payments made on account of the children show an increase over the amount paid in the previous year of £74 lOs., largely owing to the increased number of can- didates who required assista.ice while waiting for election. The committee consider it extremely desirable that they should be placed in a position to meet the numerous pressing applications for assistance made under rule 14, and again earnestly appeal to those most nearly interested in the matter for a larger measure of support to enable them to do so. The usefulness of the fund has never been made more apparent than is evidenced by the greatly increased number of candidates seeking election at this meeting, and il is a source of keen regret to the committee that the funds at their disposal do not justify them in recom- mending the election of more than titteen — founeen by election in the usual way, and one by resohaion to receive the allowance from the " Emma Sherwood Memorial." With a deep sense of gratitude the committee once more acknowledges the munificent support accorded to the fund by its treasurer, Mr. Sherwood. In addition to a most generous annual subscription, Mr. Sherwood provided the means for placing a child on the fund at the first election held in 18S8, and has since maintained imother child for ten years, by an annual payment, as an " Emma Slierwood Memorial." To these benefactions Mr. Slier wood has added a munificent gift of .tSOU to endow ihe "Emma Sherwood -Memorial " in perpetuity. The annual festival held on May 17, under the presidency of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., K.C.V.O., again proved a most gratifying success. The subscription list amounted to £S18 ISs., the largest amount collected at any festival since 1896. With very great pleasure the committee make the announcement that the next annual fe-ttival will take place at the Hotel Cecil on Thursday, May 11, when for ihe first time in the history of the fund the chair will be occupied by a Scottish nobleman, the Right Hon. the Earl of Mansfield having most kindly consented to preside on that occasion. With very sincere regret the committee records the death of one of the founders of the fund, Mr. Herman Herbst. A generous benefactor during life, Mr. Herbst aid not forget the poor children in death, having left a legacy to the fund of £100. To the numerous local secretaries who continue to assist the fund the committee again tender their warmest thanks ; and especially to Mr. R. Scott, gardener, Moortteld, Manningham, who from the inception of the fund has been local secretary for Biadford. Mr. May, iu moving the adoption of the report, said Iheir present satisfactory condition was due in a large measure to the success of the lasr. annual festival dinner, but fur the generous subscription list then they would probably have had lo face a deficit. This was a matter of great concern. Their responsibilities weie increasing ; to-day there were thirty-one candidates for election and only fifteen vacancies. Several more were already notified for next year. How to increase the annual donations was the problem; unfortunately, they were gradually decreasing. Some sources, such as local horticultural societies' funds were failing, so it was all the more im- portant to have more subscriptions. The chairman mentioned that the secretary had sent out over 50O circulars to ladies interested in gardening, bui the money received was not more than sufflnent to pay for the circulars. Thus the result was vtry disappointing. Mr. May appealed to all ladies interested in gardening to do sometliing for gardeners' orphans. Two years ago the committee were given power to extend at their discretion the privileges of the fund to orphans beyond the specified time ; this had tieen done in several cases with very gratifying results. This liberality would, however, have to cease, said the chairman, unless further support were forthcoming. Mr. William Marshall seconded the adoption of the report, and in doing so said that although he knew all the cases jjroposed for election were thoroughly deserving, he thought it was a mistake to elect two childien in the sirae family. He thought it a better principle to give two widows 53. each than to give IO3. to one. It was a subject worthy of their serious consideration. Mr. A. Dean supported Mr. Marshall's remarks. He said this opinion was largely held among gardeners in country districts, and in some instances prevented their subscribing. He drew attention to Mr. Burrell's note on this subject in The Garden of the 11th inst. The chairman said the subject was not a new one. Several years ago the same complaint was made. In 190O the question was raised by the Bournemouth Gardeners' Society, and the committee then stated that a second child in the same family would not be elected except in special circumstances. To-day they had received a similar letter from the same society, protesting against the rule that allows two children from the same family to benefit. The chairman said that if the committee found this rule detrimental to the interests of the society they would ask for it to be amended. Until now there had been hardly any contest for election between t,he candidates. They must also remember that 23. Gd. weekly is granted to the most deserving of the unsuccessful candidates. Mr. Harry J. Veitch suggested that the rule should be altered so as to exclude two children of the same family being nominated for election at the same time ; a second child must not be nominated until the first was elected. This suggestion, which was received with approval, is already under discussion by the committee. Mr. Lyne, Chislehurst, thought that the fact of two children in the same family being elected did not adversely influence gardeners' subscriptions. He thought some of such cases were more deserving than those where there was one child only. The report was then passed unanimously. The other business comprised the usual votes of thanks to the treasurer (Mr. Sheiwood), the auditor (Mr. P. R. Birr), and their re-election, the reelection of Messrs. Alderson, G. H. Barr, Cuthbert, Lyne, Howe, Sanders, Thompson, and Poupart (retiring members of committee), and the re-election of the secretary, Mr. B. Wynne. The scrutineers of the ballot reported the result of the poll as follows ; the number of votes is given in brackets : Hogan, Francis Thomas (327); Kempsell, Winifred .Vlice (302); Mann, Doris May (3U2) ; Mann, Marguerite Jane (284); Ryder, Beatrice Mary t270) ; Coombes, Frederick ;257); Day, Eric Charlton (249) ; Parker, Dorothy Elizabeth (240) ; Best, Arthur Victor (220); Ryder, Charles E. A. (212); Hogan, William Benedict (200); Gillett, Elizabeth (178); Peckitt, Norman Alexander (172) ; and Foote, Frank (167). Another candidate, Bessie Hardes, with 15S votes, the next highest on the lisf , w.ts chosen to benefit from the " Emma Sherwood Memorial Fund." A vote of thanks to the chairman, Mr. H. B. May, closed the proceedings. In the evening the committee dined together at Simpson's. XII. THE GAKDEN. [February 18, 1905. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Annual Meeting. The one hundred and first annual general meeting was held on Tuesday last in the Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square. Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart. , presided over a fairly large attendance, and was supported by the following members of the council : The Earl of Ilchester, Captain G. L. Holford, Sir J. T. D. Llewelyn, Bart., Sir Albert Rollit, M.P., Mr. H. J. Veitch, Mr. W. A. Biiney, Mr. H. B. May, Mr. James Hudson, and Mr. J. Gurney Kowler (treasurer). Nearly one hundred new Kellows were elected. The secre- tary, the Rev. W. Wilks, read the notice convening the meeting, and the minutes of the last annual general meet- ing. The report was then taken as read. We make the following extracts :— Annual Report. It is in great measure due to the perseverance and generosity of Baron Sir Henry Schroder, Bart., V.M.H., that the society is now in possession of a magnitieeut hall and offices of its own, though the kindness and liberality of other i'ellows in supporting his elEorts must by no means be lost sight of. The society is under a great obligation to the Baron, and to all others who have assisted in pro- viding the society with such excellent buildings. While the council congratulate the Fellows on the raising of so large a sum as £25,17S towards the building of the hall, they cannot but look upon it as a misfortune that there still remains a debt on the building fund of £S,9S9, The council make an earnest appeal to the Fellows to help in paying off this debt, and invite every Fellow to send a contribution at once for this purpose, so that in the new century of the society's existence it may not be hampered by a heavy deficiency. The new gardens at Wialey, so generously purchased for the society's use by Sir Thomas Hanbury, V.M.H., have received much attention. A large range of glass houses has been erected ; a new house for the superintendent and a cottage fur the fruit foreman have also been built, and extensive water and sewage works have been carried out. Seven acres have been planted with a representative collection of fruit trees and bushes kindly presented to the society by ilessrs. G. Bunyard and Co., Limited, Dick- sons, Limited, John Fraser, H. Line and Son, Hugh Low and Co., Paul and Son, J. R. Pearson and Sous, Thomas Rivers and Son, W. Spooner and Sons, and J. Veitch and Sons, Limited. In the spring of the year, to the great regret of his colleagues, the Right Hon. the Lord Redesdale felt obliged to tender his resignation of his seat on the council on account of absence abroad. Later in the year a great loss was sustained through the sudden death of Mr. Frederick G. Lloyd, who was elected to a seat on the council on December 13, 1S9S. Acting in accordance with bye-laws No. 61 and 62, the council elected Mr. W. A. Biiney and Sir Albert Rollit, M.P., to fill the vacancies thus caused in their body. Early in the year the council were invited to nominate two representatives to sit on the Board of Examiners appointed by the University of Oxford in connexiun with the horticultural departinent of Reading College. The council were fortunate in obtaining the consent of the Right Hon. tlie Earl of Ilchester and Mr. Arthur W. Sutton, V.M.H., to act as the society's representatives. On February 10, 1901, the Royal Scottish Arboricultural Society celebrated their jubilee, and the society was repre- sented on that occasion by Mr. A. D. Webster, F.R.H.S. The Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society will be cele- brating their centenary in the forthcoming year, and the council have accepted an invitation to send a deputation to Edinburgh for the great show on September 12. The council have accepted another invitation to send a deputation to Paris in connexion with the International Horticultural Exhibition to be held there in May, 190r>. The Journal still continues to be highly valued by the Fellows. Daring the past year Parts 3 and 4 of Volume XXVIII. have been issued, and before this report is sent out it is hoped that Parts 1 and 2 and a portion of Part 3 of Volume XXIX. will have been published and issued to the Fellows. The publication of Volun)e XXIX. has been purposely delayed in order to assist the finance of the society, which has this year needed great care and management, but the Journal has only been delayed a couple of months at the most. The council take this opportunity of again thanking the writers of papers and the compilers of abstracts for their generous and ready assistance in thus enabling the society's Journal to take a foremost place among the publications of the scientific societies of Enrope. The room in which the library will in future be housed has been admirably furnished and fitted, through the liberality of Baron SchioJer, who, besides his original subscription of £5,000 to the hall, has most generously defrayed the whole cost of moving the library and housing it worthily. The society's twelfth annual examination in the principles and practice of horticulture, for which 190 entries were received, was held at sixty-six local centres on Wednesday, April 20, 1904. In view of the increasing demand in country districts that the schoolmasters should be competent to teach the elements of cottage gardening, and the absence hitherto of any test whatever of such competence, the society also held on Tuesday, June 21, an examination for elementary and technical school teachers only, for which 12-4 entries were received. The results of these examinations will be found in the Journal Volume XXIX., pages 161, 160). These examinations will be repeated in 1905 on April 12 and April r. respectively. The council again point out to the Fellows the great obligation the society ia under to the members of the standing committees for their prolonged labours for the benefit of the society and of the science it represents. They would also take this opportunity of expressing publicly the special thanks of the cummimity to the Rev. Professor Henslow, V.M.H., for his unremitting labours as secretary of the scientific committee since ISSO. which he is now, amid the universal regret of his cuUeagaes, relinquishing on account of his change of residence. The council would again draw the attention of the Fellows to the excellent work which has been carried on at Chiswick for nine years past by the superintendent, Mr. S, T. Wright, among the students under instruction there. During the forthcoming year trials will be carried out at Wialey with Potatoes, Peas, Broccoli, and Tomatoes amongst vegetables, and with Violas, Sweet Peas, Carna- tions, and Cactus Dahlias amongst flowers. It is also proposed to plant portions of the land at present unoccupied with a representative collection of trees and shrubs, and with the best varieties of every description of Ptose. The large span of glass and the increased area of ground afford far greater facilities than ever before. Donations of trees, shrubs, hardy Alpine and other plants, seeds, and cuttings would prove most acceptable. Whilst fully recognising that the present satisfactory condition of the society's alfairs is largely due to the generosity and kindly assistance of the Fellows, the council would urge them not to relax their exertions, but rather to make a renewed effort to wipe off the debt still remaining on the hall, to complete the equipment of AVisley by the erection of a horticultural research station, and to increase the roll of Fellows to 10,000 by the end of the hundred and first year of the society, which closes on March 6, 1905. Sir Trevor Lawrence, in moving the adoption of the report, said the Fellows had every reason to congratulate themselves upon the society's position. He read a letter fiom the Rev. H. D'ombrain contrasting the present nourishing condition of the society with its position some years ago. Sir Trevor referred to the opening of the new hall by the King, a matter alluded to in the report. The valuable acoustic properties of the hall were also men- tioned ; it had been referred to by critics as excellent fur concerts. They much regretted the absence of Baron Schroder, to whom they were so greatly indebted. It was proposed to fix a tablet to commemorate Baron Schroder's services to the society. They also owed a great debt of gratitude to Sir Thomas Hanbury for the Wialey Gardens. Sir Trtv ir said that £4,700 had been received for the sale of the lease of the Chiswick gardens ; this would consider- ably help to cover the outlay at Wisley. It was hoped evenluallyto be able to establish a horticultural laboratory at Wisley, an eminent scientist had already utfered to carry on work there, but no details could yet be given. The Journal was a pattern of what such a production should be. Neither its importance nor the importance of the ser- vices of the secretary, the Rev. W. Wilks, could be exagge- rated. Sir Trevor Lawrence referred to the fortnightly exhibitions, and made special mention of the Orchida shown that day by Mr. Colmaii. The summer show would be held in the grounds of the Royal Military Hospital at Chelsea on July 11, 12, and 13. He asked the meeting to give a vote of thanks to Lord and Lady Itcbester for allowing the society to use Holland Park. The president mentioned the valuable work of the committees and staff, and, in conclusion, said that the income of the society was £14,000 ; the working profit last year was over £5,000. The income from subscriptions was £10,000 ; that is, £1,000 more than the ordinary expenses. Mr. A. ^^'. SutttiTi seconded the adoption of the report. Mr. Sutton said that thanks were due to tlie council for having carried through so well the work of erecting the hall. He hoped that all present who had not contributed to the hall would do so. After mentioningseveral matters which are included in the report, Mr. Sutton hoped that before long the society would be able to hold an Inter- national ."^how and extend hospitality to visitors from abroad, as they so often did to us. Mr. J. Gurney Fowler (treasurer) said that at the end of 1902 the funds were £10,000 ; now they are £51,100. This represents an increase of £35,100 in two years. The cost of the hall was £40,uo0, the original estimate, and the cost of Wisley is estimated to be £690 more than the £4,700 received for the Chiswick lease. Before they could say that the Fellows had actually paid for the hall and garden .£15,n."i2 would be needed. He would much like to leave the funds as he found them, and be able to pay ofi" the hall and garden debts also. He estimated it would cost £1,800 a year to maintain the hall. They had borrowed £6,000 from the bank. Last year only one number of the Journal had been published. This year there will be the cost of three. He hoped to have a surplus of between £2,000 and £3,000 next year. Mr. H. J. Elwes, F.R.S., congratulated the treasurer upon such a business-like statement of accounts. He suggested that the Journal was too much to give away to every Fellow, and that an additional subscription should t)e paid by those who wanted it. Mr. Elwes also suggested with a view to limiting the quantity and improving the quality of the matter in the Journal that a publication committee of experts should be formed. He thought this work should not fall to the secretary. With regard to \^'^isley he hoped that steps would be taken so as to find out exactly what Wisley was suitable for before any plan was embarked upon. They must first determine what could best be done at Wisley. Sir Trevor Lawrence, in replying, said they were afraid that if the Journal were reduced country Fellows would complain. They attached much value to the Journal and the plants sent out. The matter of the suitability of Wisley for certain purposes had received and would receive careful ounaideration. They had the advice of some of the best horticulturists in the kingdom. The meeting closed with the election of orticera and the usual votes of thanks. Orchid Committke. One end of the hall was filled with a group of Orchida from Jeremiah Colman, Esq., Gatton Park, Reigate (gardener, Mr. W. P. Bound). This group was composed chiefly of Dendrobiums, all splendidly flowered, and com- bining to make a very fine display. Eich plant had plenty of room, and greenery was tastefully interspersed. We refrain from mentioning the names of the Dendro- biums shown, but many of the best species, hybrids, and varieties were included. The centre of the group consisted of white varieties of Lrelia anceps and the orange yellow Epidendrum Boundii, making a most effective combination. The rare Cymbidium Hookeri was also noticed here. Calanthes Bryan and William Murray showing from Asparagus Sprengeri, and various bright-coloured LjcUo- Cattleyas and other Orchids added variety to this exceedingly meritorious display. Gold and Lindley medals. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, near Enfield, N., showed several Cvpripediums, including C. J. Howes, C. anreum Gidippe, C. nitens magniflcum (G. S. Calls var.) and others, L.-C. Helena, and Cattleya Trianx Perfecta. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, S.W., exhibited aome very attractive Orchids, among them L.-C. warnhamensis, Lfclia Mrs. M. Gratrix, L.-C. haroldiana, L.-C. Violetta, L.-C. Pallas, Dendrobium Scylla, L.-C. bletchleyensis, Dendrobium atro-violaceum, and others. Silver Banksian medal. Some interesting and beautiful Orchids were shown by Baron Schroder, The Dell, Egham, Surrey (gardener, Mr. Ballautine). In the background Calanthes were arranged, C. Baron Schroder var. pallida and C. Regnieri being conspicuous. Cypripediums weie represented by finely- dowered plants of C. lathamiauuni and C. insigue var. undulatum. C. insigne var. Laura Eimball, C. Baron Schroder, and C. i, Sandera? were among the rarer ones. There were some very handsome Odontoglossums, for instance, O. wilckeanum, 0. crispum trismagristum, 0. Hallii X xanthodon, 0. luteo-purpureum vuylstekeanum, 0. andersonianum, 0. crispum var. veitchianum, and others. Various Cattleyas, Lycastes, Sophronitis, and Dendrobiums gave variety and colour to the group, in which each plant was good. Silver gilt Flora medal. Mr. James Cypher, Cheltenham, exhibited a small group of Orchids, in which were Dendrobium nubile varieties, D. ellerianum, D. Ainsworthii intertextnm, Cattleya Triana?, Masdevallia gargantea, Epidendrum xanthinum, and Cypripedium Swinburnei magnificum. Cattleya calummata, with rich rose - spotted sepals, petals, and purple lip was very attractive. M. Charles VuyUteke, Loochristi, near Ghent, exhibited some very good forms of Odontoglossum harryo-crispum, O. radiatum, and 0. Iiellatulum. The conspicuous feature in the group shown by Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heaton, Bran ford, was of some finely- flowered plants of Phaia-nopsis schilleriana, bearing strong r cemes of rosy pink and white flowers. These, together wiLh the marbled foliage, produced a delightful effect. Messrs Charlesworth also showed several handsome L;elio- Cattleyas and other hybrids. Silver-gilt Flora medal. In the group of 0 cbids from Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, were odontoglossum Peacatorei Prince of Orange, 0. crispum xanth(jtes, O. harryano-crlspum var. Rex, and other very handsome hybrids. Cypripedium Norma, C. Helen II. var., C. triumphaus, Phaius Marthic, two new Cymbidiums, and others Silver Flora medal. New UKCHiits. Cymbidium Sandcn'i. — FiriL-class certificate. From Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans. A new species from the East Indies. The sepals and j'etals are white, tinged with rose-pink, the lip heavily maiked with short crimson lines. C'jpripciVur.n 11 imnurtv -This is the result of a cross ht-tween Druryi and Icucuchilum. From W. W. Appleton, E^q., Weston-snper-Xlare. Award of merit. Ci/pripeduim Crurenlo: — This is a variety of C. Leoniic. From J. F. Craven, Esq., Keighley, Yorks. Award of merit. A botanical certificate whs given to Vanda Watsoni, a new species with small white flowers. (Sander and Sons.) Fruit Committee. Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, exhibited a splendid collection of Apples, remarkable both for their good condition and their rich colouring. They formed a particularly valuable object-lesson, as showing which varieties are at their best at this season of the year. Particularly finely coloured were Baumann's Red Reinette, Cox's Pomona, Wealthy, Bismarck, Mt'ie du Menage, and Calville Rouge. Other sorts that made handsome dishes were Stone's Apple, Withington Fillbasket, Hietigheimer, Tibbetfs Pearmain, Royal Jubilee, Nancy Jackson, The Queen, Gascoyne's Scarlet, Reinette Superfin, Lord Derby, Brabant Bellefleur, and others. Cornish Gllliflower and Rosemary Russet were well shown. Gold medal. The Kin;;'s Acre Nursery Company, Hereford, exhibited a most attractive collection of Apples. The fruits were uf good colour and firm. Specially good were Sandringham, Lady Henniker, Gascoyne's Scarlet. Waltham Abbey Seed- ling, Tyler's Kernel, Frogmore Prolific, Lane's Prince Albert, Beauty of Kent, Royal Jubilee, and Annie Elizabeth. Silver-gilt Knightian medal. A silver Banksian medal was awarded to Oswald P. Sewcold, Esq., Taplow Hill, Taplow (gardener, Mr. R. Bullock), for a collection of Apples. *** Owing til pressure upon spnc<\ tlic report of the Floral Coininittee and notices of New JHants are held over until 7i£Xt week. ^»* The Yearly Subucription (o The Garden is: Inlajid, 6s. Gd, ; Foreign^ Ss. 'Jd. «gfey- GARDEN ^S ^^ No. 1736.— Vol. LXVII. February 25, 1905. NEW ORCHARDS. How Soon After Planting may a Fair Crop of Fruit be Expected 1 WE have received the following letter from one much in- terested in the promotion of the fruit industry in England, and the reply may be interesting to our readers in general : " An orchard does not bear any real weight of fruit for — with standard trees ten years, and bush trees five years. The estate on which this experience of the progress of an orchard is based is in Herefordshire. The trees were planted under the supervision of a well-known practical gardener. The subject is an interesting one, and deserves more light being thrown upon it (if possible) for the information of amateurs and others about to embark on the business of fruit growing, not as a luxury, but as a healthy and profit- able outdoor occupation. Our correspondent assured us that last year it was only possible to obtain 6d. a bushel for Apples (surely this must show a great want of system in the dis- posal of them), and he said he knew that quantities of Apples were sold at 3d. per bushel. It was also not possible to pick the Apples in Herefordshire, as they do not stand the cost. All cider Apples are allowed to fall to the ground." The question as to whether a new Apple orchard (we will take the Apple, as it is the most important fruit) will bear a substantial crop of fruit in the time specified may, we think, be answered in two ways. First, no. If it is a question of planting an orchard on turf, and the grass is allowed to grow close to the stems of the trees, and with no further attention or help in the way of top - dressing with rich soil or manure, we must say no. Yet this answer wants qualify- ing ; so much depends on the condition of the land, manuring and preparing of the soil, the quality of the trees, the selection of varieties, and the care and knowledge with which they are planted. Should the trees be planted in thin and poor soil, resting on gravel, with little or no previous preparation, the trees will not bear a substantial crop in twice ^^ ten years. Indeed, the man who plants ^E Apple trees (or any other fruit trees) on such ^m poor land is doomed to failure from the first. ^L On the other hand, if healthy, well-rooted ^^Koung trees are obtained, and they are ^^Kplanted in good holding soil, well drained ^Hand of moderate depth— say, 18 inches or I 2 feet— the ground is well prepared in the way of digging out holes 5 feet wide, the soil stirred to its full depth, and enriched with half a barrowful of well-rotted manure to each tree, and planting is carefully done, good results will follow. Standard trees planted under these conditions, especially if the turf is removed from round the stems for a distance of 3 feet, and occasional top-dressings are given, would bear substan- tial crops in less than ten years. In forming a judgment of the value of an orchard planted under these conditions, it must be remembered that the owner is plant- ing not only for himself, but also for his successors and for the permanent benefit of his estate. An orchard planted under these conditions is formed with the object of remaining profitable for at least forty years, and it is not fair or reasonable to expect imme- diate heavy crops ; moreover, it must not be forgotten that the owner for the first few years after planting receives almost as great a return for the grass in the shape of hay annually as he did before the trees were planted. An orchard of this description in- creases in value up to twenty or more years, and will remain in good profit afterwards for another twenty, so that it surely, if slowly, becomes a valuable asset to the planter and to his estate. To plant for early profit it is necessary to adopt quite a different system of culture. Instead of planting on grass land the trees must be planted on deeply cultivated and well-manured arable land, and instead of standards 12 feet apart, bushes on English Paradise stock must be planted at 7 feet apart in the row and the same distance between the rows. Fruit trees never make a large growth the first five years after planting, therefore some other dwarf crop in the way of Strawberries, Potatoes, Caulifiower, or other vegetable crops may be grown on the land between them until the trees by their extended growth will have made this impossible. Under the system of close planting the time will come in the course of ten or fifteen years that the trees will have filled the whole of the ground and will be more or less growing into one another. The proper course then to take will be to cut every other tree down and grub its roots up, giving the needful room for the further development of those left. Those dispensed with will have paid for themselves over ancj over again, as when bought in quantity the original cost would not be more than Is. 6d. per tree. Bush trees cost less in manage- ment than any other form. No ladders or steps are required for many years for pruning, spraying, or gathering the fruit, and a profitable return of fruit would result in much less time than from the former plan. Too many varieties are grown. British growers of Apples have much to learn on this point. One great failure in the past as compared with American growers (who confine themselves to three or four) is that we have clung so tenaciously to the culture of too many sorts, on the plea that they are wanted to furnish a long supply for dessert and cooking. This plea is valid enough in relation to a private supply for home con- sumption, but, when considered in relation to fruit for profit, it is the greatest mistake which can be made. What the Apple grower for market should do is to find out the sorts that command the best price in the market, and to grow only those varieties in large quantities. We have heard of several growers who have shown samples of popular Apples, such as Cox's Orange, Blenheim, and others, to Covent Garden dealers, who have offered good prices, but, when asked if they could supply a few tons of these sorts, the growers were dismayed at the enquiry, replying that they could only supply them in bushels. Bushels are of no use in Covent Garden ; the right sorts and quality are wanted by the ton, and when the proper sorts to suit the market are grown in this quantity instead of in bushels, then, and not before, will Apple growing in England become the great and profitable industry it is capable of developing into. For our part, if we had an orchard, say, of ten acres, and had one acre of Worcester Pearmain, three acres of Cox's Orange Pippin, three acres of Newton Wonder, one acre of Wellington, and two of Lane's Prince Albert, we should not much care who had the rest of the varieties as far as growing for profit is concerned. Gathering, grading, and collect- ing are important points in relation to the successful disposal of the fruit, and they are points to which farmers and country growers have given little or no practical attention. With regard to the profitable disposal of country-grown fruit, it is earnestly to be hoped that thQ Government Commission 112 THE GAEDEN. [February 25, 1905. recently appointed, and now sitting to receive evidence on tiiis subject, will specially direct their attention to the best and most econo- mical methods of bringing the grower and consumer together. Until something is done in this direction on lines similar to those laid down by the Evesham growers, or in some other way favourable to the easy, expeditious, and cheap distribution of fruit, we are much afraid that, whatever else is accomplished by the commission in the way of helping forward the fruit-growing industry in England, the result will still remain, in the absence of these better facilities, unsatisfactory. It is the carriage, agents' charges, and market tolls ■'that stifle the industry. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. March 1. — Sheffield Horticultural Society's Meeting. March 4. — Meeting of the French Horticul- tural Society of London. March 6. — Mansfield Horticultural Society's Meeting. March 7. — Sevenoaks Gardeners' Society's Meeting. March 8. — Meeting of the Sheffield Chrysan- themum Society. March H. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting. ' A coloured plate of the Darwin Tulip Marguerite (Margaret) will be given with The Garden next week. The National Potato Society's schedule. — The Secretary informs us that this will be ready in about a week. Copies will be posted to all applicants towards the end of February or early in March. Royal Hoptieultupal Society.— The next exhibition and meeting of this society will be held on Tuesday next, when a lecture will be delivered by the Hon. J. H. Turner, the Agent- General for British Columbia, on fruit growing in that province, which will be illustrated by lantern slides. The subsequent lectures during the year deal with Bananas, Potatoes, retarded Potatoes, foreign competition in fruit, orchard management, and crystallisation of fruit ; there will be four lectures on " Japanese Horticulture," "Japanese Plants and Gardens," "Japanese Dvparf Trees," and "The Making of Japanese Gardens in Kngland." On July 4 a lecture by Professor Webber of Washington will be delivered on "Horticulture in the United States." The Rev. Professor Henslow has kindly consented to lecture three times during the year on " Bud Variation," " The Plants of the Bible," and " The True Meaning of Natural Selection." The society's great spring and summer shows will be held in the Temple Gardens and in the grounds of Chelsea Hospital respectively. MEKTON MANOR HOUSE. (^Tlw rcakkiice of the late Mr. Iimes.) HOPE. The Winter's voice may fiercely sound, And madly rage the blast ; The ioe and snow lie strewn around — Yet Spring will come at last. The gathering fogs may hide away The sun from our sad gaze ; Yet on some blissful future day He'll wake the earth to praise. Rage on, ye storms ! I fear ye not Your mighty strength reveal ! On tiptoe from some hidden spot, At night, the Spring will steal. The earth will wake all fresh and green Scarce knowing what has passed. And with a happy, joyful mien, Smile to the heavens at last ; All garlanded with blossom sweet, Whose scent can never cloy, Whilst brooklets ripple round her feet, Like sparkling tears of joy. Then hush ; be still, complaining heart ! Although the frosts remain. The earth will soon be taking part In May-day feasts again. And should'st thou oft grow cold with fear, Joy seem for ever past — Kemember, this and every year, God sends the Spring at last ! Geieel. —(Tramlated by Sydney Hesselkigge.) The weathep in 1904. — The usual monthly meeting of the Royal Meteorological Society was held on Wednesday evening, the 15th inst., at the society's rooms, 70, Victoria Street, Westminster, Mr. Richard Bentley, F.S.A., President, being in the chair. Mr. E. Mawley presented his report on the phonological observations for the year 1904. The weather of the phonological year ending with November, 1904, was chiefly remarkable for the persistent rains in January and Feb- ruary, the absence of keen frosts in May, the long continuance of hot and dry weather in July, and the small rainfall during the autumn. Through- out the year wild plants came into flower behind their usual dates, but at no period were the departures from the average exceptional. Such spring migrants as the wallow, cuckoo, and nightingale made their appearance in this country at as nearly as possible their usual time. The yield of Wheat per acre was the smallest since 1895, while those of Barley, Beans, and Peas were also defi- cient. On the other hand, there were good crops of Oats, Potatoes, and Mangels. The best farm crops of the year were, however, those of Hay, Swedes, and Turnips. Both Corn and Hay were harvested in excellent con- dition. Apples were everywhere abundant, and all the small fruits yielded well, especially Strawberries, but there was only a moderate supply of Pears and Plums. The other papers read were " Observations of Meteorological Elements Made During a Balloon Ascent at Berlin on September 1, 1904," by Dr. H. Elias and Mr. J. H. Field, and "The Winds of East London, Cape Colony," by Mr. J. R. Sutton. Staffopdshipe County Council- Education Committee.— I have pleasure in forwarding you a copy of the report on the experiments in connexion with agriculture con- ducted in Staffordshire and Shropshire, and at the Harper Adams College. I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that the com- mittee place the services of their agricultural instructor (Mr. John C. Rushton) at the disposal of farmers in the county, and, as far as time permits, he will be willing to give advice upon all matters connected with agriculture, e.g., insect pests, uses of manures and their valuation, feeding stuffs, management of meadow and pasture land, diseases of crops, identification of grasses, weeds, &e. — Graham Balfour, Director of Education. Opigin of the blue Ppimpose.-I can quite understand that " Ignoramus" should have found something puzzling in my account of the origin of the blue Primrose. I may, perhaps, make my meaning clearer if I say that Scott Wilson was the ancestor and Oakwood Blue the mother of the present strain of blue Primroses. The former was not blue, but was an advance on the bright mauve shades that distinguish tha coloured Primrose, and pretty clearly fore- shadowed the coming of the true blue strain. When Mr. Wilson began growing hardy flowers at Wisley he tried to do so without destroying the natural features of the place, and that was how Scott Wilson came to be planted on the side of the hill in the shelter of a Furze bush. It was in this way that Mr. Wilson attempted to grow many things, but later on he found that only a few things were suitable for thia form of gardening. — J. Cornhill. A pemapkable bequest tO soien- tifiC hOPtiCUltUPe.— The news that no lets a sum than £325, 000 has been willed for the foundation and upkeep of a school of scientifie horticulture at Merton is almost startling. This is, however, the will of the late Mr. John Innes, who died at the Merton Manor House en August 2 last. Those who have the welfare of scientific horticulture at heart will rejoice to hear of this good news. The bequest is a munificent one, and will have the effect, it is earnestly to be hoped, of placing this most important phase of horticulture on a sure foundation. No such bequest has been made in the history of horticulture in this country, and it is made for the furtherance of one aspect of horticulture which it is almost impossible to develop through a want of financial support. We shall await further news of this welcome bequest with great interest. The late Mr. Innes lived in the house shown in the illustration. This will probably be the residence) of the students. Beg'onia g^ig^antea capmlnata.— For winter flowering this is one of the best of Begonias. 1 recently saw a batch of it growing in a plant stove in the garden at Corhampton House, and a gorgeous display of rich carmine colour they made. The plants were 15 inches high, well clothed with foliage, and carried from six to eight trusses of bloom. The pots were only 5 inches in diameter, rendering the plants all the more useful for decoration in vases. Mr. Cawte, the gardener, said it is one of the easiest plants to grow, and is very serviceable, the flowers lasting quite fresh a long time. The plant is easily increased from cuttings in spring iu bottom-heat. — E. M. February 25, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 113 k Sweet Pea Scarlet Gem.— Not only 19 this new variety brilliant in colour, but it is •highly refined in shape, having a smooth, erect standard, and it is also a good grower. As far as my experience goes, richly coloured Sweet Peas do not produce so many flowers on a stem as do the paler coloured varieties, but my observation may be somewhat limited. It is something to get such a brilliant glow of colour, though report states that Henry Eckford has in reserve two or three varieties, also brilliant in tint, but decided improvements. The possi- bilities of the Sweet Pea are very great, and though wonderful developments have been reached, the ideal flower has yet to be obtained. Our ideals recede as we attempt to realise them.— R. D. The most popular tints in Sweet Peas. — White is certainly a colour in Sweet Peas which attracts the popular taste, so do shades of pink and rose, a group to which valuable additions have been made of late. Orimson also is a colour for which preferences are shown, inclusive, of course, of bright scarlet varieties. Blue to mauve are favourite tints, and there is plenty of room for a good blue Sweet Pea, especially of that lovely tint of blue found in what is popularly known as Lord Anson's Blue Pea ; bright and attractive shades approaching chocolate are much esteemed also. There is always a run on novelties, and raisers are fortunate in obtaining very pleasing novel shades of colour. Delicate shades of colour appear to be most esteemed for table decora- tion. It is a peculiarity of a very few varieties to produce seeds which are both dark and light. Mrs. Sankey is a case in point, but the greatest purity appears to be found in the blooms produced from light seeds. — R. D. A great show of Christmas Roses. — The finest batch of Christmas Roses (Helleborus niger altifolius) I have seen for a long time was in the gardens at Corhampton Park, near Bishop's Waltham, during the present season. Twenty-four plants growing in a cold frame on an eastern border began to open their blossoms a fortnight before Christmas Day, and have continued ever since, when, until February 3, 1,000 blossoms had been cut from these roots,' an average of just over forty to a clump. The blooms were large, with extra stout stems, and of the purest white. Of course the number of blossoms is not extraordinary for large clumps, but these are not large clumps. It is but an ordinary two-light frame in which they are growing, but it is the extremely handsome blossoms they produce annually that is remarkable. Instead of removing the frame directly the flowers are gathered and exposing the plants to cold winds when making their new growth, the frame remains until new growth is made, which is all the more vigorous and healthy. The plants are never allowed to suffer for want of water at the roots, and are a credit to the gardener, Mr. F. Cawte. The variety altifolius is much finer in every way than the ordinary H. niger, that the wonder to me is more of it is not grown. — E. M. A new Begonia- Triomphe de Test. — The popularity that Begonia Gloire de Lorraine has attained serves to direct attention to any other variety from the same source, such as that at the head of this note, which is now being distributed by MM. Lemoine et fils of Nancy. From their catalogue the following few curtailed particulars may be of interest : This new comer is a near relative of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, raised by us a dozen years ago. It is a seedling from B. socotrana, fertilised by a Begonia unknown, not that the crossing, was produced by chance, but owing to the numerous attempts made each year at crossing B. socotrana it is impossible to indicate the male parent. The new variety is of rapid growth, the plant naturally forming a branching tuft, clothed with ample leafage. The inflorescence is much branched, and the male flowers, each with four petals, are of a satiny rose tint, and a succession is kept up from January to nearly June. The buds are carmine-red in colour, and as ornamental as the flowers. It is later iu flowering than Gloire de Lorraine. There are no female flowers. This variety was shown, on April 14, 1904, at a meeting of the National Horticultural Society of France, and was gi ven a certificate of merit. — H. P. A new London park.- Lovers of Ruskin, as well as of open spaces, are making a determined effort to secure for South London another public park, which shall serve to per- petuate his memory and at the same time save from the builders' hands another "lung" for London. On Denmark Hill there stand twelve large houses comprised in a beautiful and well- timbered estate of about 24 acres, which has already been consigned to the builder for the erection of the never-ending villa residences, but which, with its natural lake, it is hoped to save for the public ; £50,000 is the fixed purchase price of the land. It is hoped when half this has been raised that the London County Council will look with favour on the project, and do as but there are thousands of bright yellow flowers. It is a puzzle to me how fertilisation is effected, The two stamens are situated about half-way down the tube of the corolla, and about four or five millimetres below the style, which is, in many cases, two millimetres longer than the tube of the corolla. It seems to me to be a plant requiring the aid of insects in its fertilisation, but there are no insects to be seen at this time of the year. On .January '22, as there was some sunshine, I watched the plant for about four hours, but no insect paid it a visit. At the same time I found the oblong anthers had split and pollen grains were sticking to the stigma in many flowers. The brilliantly coloured flowers, although destitute of scent, are fitted to attract insects, and the form of the flower seems adapted for their visits. But there are no insects ! Can anyone offer an explanation ? The plant is beautifully figured in the Botanical Magazine, Ixxviii., tab. 4,649. — • John G. McKendrick, University of Glasgovj, in Nature. Double Primroses.- For a long time Mr. P. Murray Thomson, S.S.C., the well-known VIEW IN THE PBOPOSED RCSKIN PARK. they have done in other similar cases, viz., provide the remainder of the purchase money. Although the London County Council naturally have promised nothing in the matter, it is felt that they must realise the value of this triangular- shaped estate, with its frontage of about 1,050 feet on Denmark Hill and its park-like land, and approve of its acquisition. In memory of Ruskin, who once lived there, it is proposed to call the new park Ruskin Park. His desire that the natural beauty of Denmark Hill should remain unspoiled, and his numerous allusions to the vicinity render it an ideal memorial. As an augury of the success of the movement it was pointed out to a number of sympathisers of the movement who recently went over the estate that, without any public appeal, about £3,000 had already been raised. Fertilisation of Jasminum nudi- florum. — This well-known plant, in accordance with its usual habit, has been flowering in my garden at Stonehaven, Kincardineshire, since the third week in December, 1904, and amidst frost and snow and cold winds. There are no leaves. secretary of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, has been experimenting in the hybridisa- tion and cross - fertilisation of plants. More recently he turned his attention to the Primroses and Polyanthuses, and a curious result, in the shape of double flowers, has arisen, not, as one might expect, from the direct progeny of double flowers, but from the progeny of these again. Mr. Murray Thomson fertilised a single white Primrose with pollen from the double P. platypetala, and the resulting flowers were pink Primroses and Polyanthuses, all single, and none white. Seeds were saved from these single flowers, and in the garden of Mr. P. Neill-Fraser of Rockville, Edinburgh, a number of plants were raised from these latter seeds, given to Mr. Fraser by Mr. Murray Thomson. A number of white flowers have appeared among tttese, but the majority are dark-coloured, and include several double or semi-double flowers. These are mostly large, and, while a little more doubling would be preferred by many, are pretty and interesting flowers. They are particularly interesting, as showing what may yet be done 114 THE GARDEN. [February 25, 1905. in raising double Primroses and Polyanthuses to take the place of some of the older ones, which do not gain in vigour as time goes on, while as a contribution tu the study of the Mendelian theory they are valuable. I received flowers of these double Primroses from Mr. Murray Thomson last year, but mislaid the notes on their origin which accompanied them. I have some of these seedlings, but none of mine as yet show any doubling, although, as all did not flower, some doubles may yet appear this spring among my plants. — S. Arnott, Cantlhorn, by Dumfries, Scotland. Rainfall in the Cheshire Dis- trict.— The rainfall for the year ending 1904 has been a favourable one in this locality as compared with the previous year, 1903, when the total readings were 34.97 — a record, rain falling on 21 12 days ; wettest month, October, 5 98 being registered, the heaviest fall in twenty-four hours being on October 27, when 1-27 of rain fell; highest maximum temperature in the shade, 84°, July 2 ; lowest mean temperature, 17°, January 14. Diameter of rain gauge, 5 inches ; height above ground, 1 foot; 114 feet above sea level. The readings for 1904 are as follows : ^, i * ^ ,F - ISumber of 3Ionth. Total depth. '"'"'}. fJ^B, ''' days with .4 luniTS. ■oiormcre Inches. Depth. Date. recorded. January .. 2'71 .. 49 .. 12 .. 21 February 305 .. -78 .. 3 .. 20 March.... I'tiO .. -33 .. 29 .. 14 April .... 20S .. -36 .. 22 .. 21 May 2 18 .. -44 .. 27 .. 20 June 064 .. -IS .. 24 .. 10 July 1-58 .. -47 .. 25 .. 16 August .. 4 26 .. -85 .. 21 .. 20 September 1-39 .. -60 .. 30 .. 7 October .. 1-04 .. -53 .. 16 .. 9 November 209 .. -53 .. 8 .. 17 December 2-55 .. -38 .. 15 .. 20 Total.. 2,i-17 195 As will be seen, August was the wettest month in the year, also credited with the greatest fall in twenty-four hours — on the 21st inst. ; 'Ol of fog was registered on November 16, December 24 and 26 respectively, most unusual occurrences. The highest maximum temperature in the shade was 90° on August 3 ; lowest mean temperature, 9°, November 24. — W. H. Jenkins, ]Yytli(mhaw Gardeiia, Norlhenden, Cheshire. A note from the Riviera. — The drought is so very severe that one has no pleasure in the garden, especially after that fatal frost. No doubt there are a few things like Sweet Pea Earliest of All that are e.xtra welcome at this season. Snowdrops and Sweet Peas are a curious combination. ■Winter Aconites in Midlothian.— In a Midlothian garden where note is taken of the flowering date of certain flowers the Winter Aconite bloomed this year for the first time on January 29, ten days later than in 1904. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. AWARDS IN JANUARY COMPETITION. I HAVE pleasure in reporting on the recent competition on the subject of trees and shrubs. A large number sent in replies, and though the numbers are certainly satisfactory, it is still more so that the work of the competitors should have proved as good as it has done. At least si.xty of the papers deserved and received exhaus- tive examination, and I do not think there were half a dozen really bad papers ; moreover, the first twenty-five were so close together that I should have been very diffident of my powers to weigh the rival claims, where the correctness of so many of the answers was a matter of opin'ion, had I not been fortunate enough to secure the co-operation of two experts to help me in my difficult task. I award the first prize to Mr. James Sex, gardener to Colonel Biddulph of Grey Court, Ham, Surrey, who obtained 120 marks out of a possible 156. The second and third prizes must be divided between Mr. A. E. Speer of Sandown Lodge, Esher, Surrey, and Mr. Thos. Nelson, The Gardens, Garroch, New Galloway, N.B., who each obtained 112 marks. The fourth prize must be shared by Mr. A. Longhurst, gardener to Mrs. iletcalf of Gloucester House, Stonebridge Park, Willesden, N.W., and the gardener at Hutton John, Penrith, Cumberland (who does not give his name), both of whom gained 109 marks. Mr. J. S. Upex (108), Mr. G. H. Head (106), and eleven others whose marks reached or exceeded 100 deserve honourable mention. I shall ven- ture to give two words of advice to any possible future competitors : (1) Be very careful to observe closely the conditions of the questions, e.g., many marks were lost in replying to questions I. and X. by those who mentioned trees and creepers when shrubs were asked for, and in answering question IV. many overlooked the fact that cheapness was an essential condition. (2) Answer as succinctly as is consistent with completeness, and do not make irrelevant displays of knowledge. Heated praise and minute details of the appearance of particular plants, explanations of the meaning of the word " ditecious," and elaborate accounts of the best means of moving large trees, are instances of uncalled-for matter which was introduced into some of the papers, and which would have been better omitted. Below I enclose a copy of answers to the paper, which, in the opinion of my colleagues and myself, would deserve nearly full marks. It is hardly necessary to add that in many cases the names of other plants would answer the questions equally well. I hope the list may interest some of your readers who have not competed, and in any case it will enable the competitors to sit in judgment on their judges.— Yours faithfully, Vicaey Gibbs. I. — Pyrus japonica, Hamamelis, Ribes, Chimonanthus f ragrans, Laurustinus, Forsythia, Spiriea Thunbergii, Daphne Mezereum, Clerodendron trichotomum. Erica mediterranea, Jasminum nudiflorum, and Ligus- trum Quihoui. II.— (1) All trees that gum, such as Cherries, Apricots, and, in a lesser degree. Magnolias. (2) Most of the Cupressus retinospora class, which actually benefit by pruning, and Yews. III. — Spiraja hevigata. IV.— Spiraea Douglasii (nut brown), Salix vitellina rubra or Cornus sanguinea (crimson), Salix vitellina (orange), Leycesteria formosa or Kerria japonica (bright green), Salix pur- purea or S. daphnoides (purple), and Sambucus nigra aurea (grey). v.— (1) Pyrus Aucuparia (Mountain A.sh). (2) Lyciuin (Box Thorn, Tea Tree), or Rhus Toxicodendron (Poison Oak, Poison Ivy). VI.— Willow, Poplar, Aucuba, Skimniia, Garrya elliptica, and Salisburia adiantifolia. VII. — Larch, Pseudolarix, Taxodium dis- tichum, and Salisburia adiantifolia. VIII. — Best : Beech, Birch, LTlmus montana. Mountain Ash, Oak (having regard to the roots). Lime, and Ulnius campestris (with regard to the heads). Worst ; Spanish Chestnut, Horse Chestnut, Robinia, Lime, LTlmus campe.stris (with regard to the roots), and Oak (with regard to the heads). IX. — Most injurious : Beech, Ash, Elm, Larch, and Lime. Least injurious : Birch, Oak, Robinia, Mountain Ash, and Maple. X. — Pyrus japonica, Eibes, Forsythia, Spirrea, Weigela, Viburnum, Phila- delphus, Veronica, Laurustinus, Deutzia, Rhododendron, and Genista. XL — Syringa, Hibiscus, Caryopteris, Cea- nothus. Rhododendron, Perowskia, Cercis Siliquastrum, Buddleia varia- bilis, Desmodium, Hedysarum, Magnolia obovata, and Solanum crispuni. XII. — (1) Horse Chestnut, Lime, Birch and Oak. (2) Cupressus lawsoniana, Pinus austriaca, Juniperus, Quercu? and Ilex. (.3) Aucuba, Holly, Laurus tinus, and Cotoneaster microphylla. XIII. — In a general collection of conifers two methods have to be adopted for the production of new leaders. On& method consists of cutting back the broken or otherwise damaged portion below the injured part, dressing the wound with tar, and stopping or shortening the points of the two uppermost whorls of branches. By this means buds are formed on the trunk immediately below the injured part. After these buds have pro- duced shoots a few inches long the strongest and best placed should be selected to form the leader ; the others rubbed out. Sequoias, Arau- carias, many Abies and Piceas, and, in fact, most trees whose branches naturally assume a horizontal or slightly pendulous habit, should be so treated. The other method con sists of cutting back and dressing the injured part in the same way as the former, afterwards tying up the strongest branch from the uppermost whorl to a stake, which stake should be higher than the new lead when in a vertical position, so as to pre- vent birds lighting on it, secured with soft tying material to the trunk, afterwards stopping the points of the remaining shoots in tne whorl to throw additional strength to the selected branch. Conifers with strong, upright - growing branches, such as Pines, Ginkgo, and occasion- ally Abies and Piceas, respond to this treatment. Larch may also be dealt with in this manner. JVote. — In the second method, where the specimen is too tall for a stake to be used, a Bamboo rod should be tied with stout bast to the upper part of the stem, and by the time it has done its vcork— by getting the lateral to assume the place of a leader— the bast will have rotted and the cane fall down by itself. Febkdary 2o, 1905. J THE GARDEN. 115 THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE SWEET VIOLET. (Continued from jyage lOl..) THE OLD NEAPOLITAN.— For a beautiful lavender colour and ex- quisite fragrance I do not think there is any variety that is finer than this, but its constitution is so delicate and the number of flowers produced on a plant so few that it is now rarely grown in this country. Mrs. Astor. — This is a comparatively new variety and a pretty novelty. It is of the same type as Marie Louise, but the petals are of a bronzy blue rich shade of colour, which is most distinct. It is very sweet, and should be included in every collection. White Varieties. The only one of these worth growing in my opinion is Comte de Brassa, a double variety, and when well grown is very beautiful. It should be treated like the other double varie- ties, and grown in poor soil in a glass frame for winter flowering. The single white is liked by many. Insect Enemies. Ked spider is the great enemy of the Violet. The most effective way of keeping the plants free from its ravages is to prevent its first attack on the plants, and this is best effected at propagating time by dipping the young plants, at the time they are detached from the parent, in an emulsion of Gishurst's Compound, as per directions on the box, and by syringing in the summer if necessary by a weaker solution of the same insecticide, especially on the under side of the leaf. To grow Violets successfully they should be replanted annually as directed above. Owen Thomas. COLOUR COMBINATIONS WITH ANNUAL FLOWERS. It was hard to believe, when I looked at my sleeping garden a few days ago, that in a month's time we must be arranging for our spring and summer bedding, if that has not already been decided on. Even if we planted our red and white and pink Daisies, and Pansies, and other combinations of pretty and useful hardy plants, we must sow many annuals this month if we would fill our mixed borders well. There are always a few beds to be planted irrespective of the borders, and these are much more effective if arranged with due regard to colour. Two long narrow beds, cut in the turf on either side of a gravel path, are filled for early spring work with pink Hyacinths and Forget-me-nots. These bloom together at first, and by the time the Hyacinths are out of flower the Forget-me- nots are tall enough to hide the unsightly fading foliage of the bulbs. Meantime Phlox Drummondi, an annual too little used, is sown in boxes, for the refilling of these beds, and a fine show of this charming flower lasts all the rest of the year ; indeed, I generally gather it until it is absolutely necessary to empty the beds in November. The centre of each seedling Phlox is pinched out, and directly the plants are old enough they are carefully pegged down. The pegging process must be attended to every week, as they are apt to become rampant, and it is difficult to mow the grass under the over- hanging sprays. A small bed of mixed Iceland Poppies — orange, yellow, and red— with an edge of Nemophila insignis is charming. The Nemophila is one of the oldest and prettiest of our annuals, but for some reason I do not think it does as well as it used. I can remember in our Lancashire garden, in a cold clay soil, the most brilliant effects were produced by using it with many other small things, the common yellow Primrose being one. It is not generally known what a good subject Nemophila is for forcing. In the "Florist and Pomologist," 1816, page 147, instructions are given for its treatment as a pot plant. The self-sown plants seem to do Ijest, which points to the value of autumn sowing ; at any rate, severe thinning should be insisted on. Another pleasing combina- tion is Sutton's dwarf pink Clarkia and CoUinsia candidissima, with Phacelia cam- panularia. The last is a little difficult to manage if sown in the open, as the slugs are particularly fond of it when it first appears above the ground. It is the same height as the Colli nsia, and has a longer period of flowering than the Nemophila. Phacelia is beautiful placed next to the orange dwarf Nasturtium, in the foreground of the mixed border. Plant annual Larkspurs in masses — blue, white, and red together — they fill up little bare spaces charmingly ; but as they are slow- growing things they .should be sown early. Dwarfs, for that reason I suppose, seem coming into fashion, and we shall soon have a miniature of each plant and annual. The dwarf Sweet Peas were, to my mind, never a real success — one could not reconcile one's self to any distortion of so precious a flower — and I believe they require a warm summer to produce the mass of flowers to make them really effective. 1 gave them up after one trial, but I must confess the season was not propitious. I flnd a good plan in sowing annuals in mixed borders is to start with some sort of colour scheme. You know what perennials you have to a certain extent, and you can be sure of varying the colours, and avoiding a discord, if I may use the word, by placing labels at useful intervals marked yellow, blue, red, white, pink, mauve, or as you wish, and when you come to the moment of planting out or sowing annuals you have some sort of rule to go by. My own borders are so extensive that unless I make a little plan I can keep no kind of order, and Lilacs and reds and yellows get next each other with most trying results. Augusta de La.cy Lacy. (To be continued.) CORRESPONDENCE. ( The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed hy correspondents. ) HARDY CYCLAMENS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] SI R, — The article on this subject is not very clear (see pa,ge 37 of The Garden of the 21st ult.). I have always taken considerable interest in hardy Cycla- mens. The species are few, even with the recent additions offered in seeds- men's autumn bulb catalogues. I am not acquainted with C. cilicicum and C. libano- tioum. I am trying with C. afrioanum, C. Coum, G. europceum, C. neapolitanum, and C. repandum to find how they will succeed at Kirn, on the west coast of Scotland. If I have fairly good success I will complete the collection. C. europaeum flowers in summer. I have meen hill-sides of this species in full bloom in Italy. C. Coum and C. ibericum I take to be geo- graphical species. The former has a roundish green leaf ; the latter has a heart-shaped leaf, with a silver zone. The two species flower at the same time in the autumn, and on rookwork are beautiful. Sun and winds should be avoided. C. neapolitanum and C. africanum I should class as geographical species. The former I have seen growing on the banks, under hedges, about Florence. C. africanum has larger leaves than C. neapolitanum, and is not so hardy as the last mentioned. Formerly these were called C. heder^folium till Mr. Baker in his monograph sorrected the name. The trade have accepted the correction. Autumn flowering. C. repandum syn. vernura. — This species is figured in Sweet's "British Flower Garden" under the name of C. hederasfolium. Mr. Baker in his monograph says heder»folium is the correct name. I am sorry to notice the trade has not accepted the correction. Flowers about April. I take it the plant figured in the plate of The Garden is C. neapolitanum. The flowers, the leaves, and September named as the time of flowering all point to my surmise ; at least, I do not know of any other hardy Cyclamen that would give the mass of bloom in September. I take it that " Y. Z." writes from knowledge that "a fairly moist soil" suits the species of Cyclamen figured. I cannot call to mind how I treated C. neapolitanum, but the bed where I grew C. europaeum, C. Coum, and C. ibericum had some inches of stones under them. The situation was sheltered and under tall Elm trees. The grass was allowed to grow, so that the plants naturalise well and would be interesting subjects to plant in shady walks. The plants cannot bear sun or cutting winds. My teacher in handling hardy Cyclamens was the late Mr. James Atkins of Painswick. Once he told me he had visited every known habitat of the Cyclamen family. When he visited London most of his time was spent in the British Museum reading-room hunting up Cyclamen literature. Willdeuov he was wont to call " Wild-enough." He had a very poor opinion of the author. If anyone associated C. Atkinsi with ibericum in his presence you would get no more knowledge from him on that visit. I cannot say whether Mr. Atkins raised C. Atkinsi from seed or if the original bulb was collected. He sold it to one of the Hendersons, and he was angry at their ofi'ering Atkinsi album, roseum, and rubrum, claiming specific rank for C. Atkinsi. One might say that Mr. Atkins was crazed on Cyclamen. He grudged no amount of labour and research to find all that could be found about his favourite flower. On the occasion of one of his visits he told me he had profited by one who had written an article on C3'clamens, and from it Mr. Atkins inferred he had some special knowledge of the family. After a great deal of hunting he found he had emigrated to Canada. Following up his cue he got into correspondence with him, and the gentleman said he had written something about Cyclamen, but really he had no knowledge of the family. This reminds me of a similar instance that happened to myself in Spain when I was pursuing my researches after Daffodils. I was told of a man who knew all about the family. I could not get his book ; it was out of print. I followed up the man into France, and when I found him I told him my motive in calling, but he said : " As a youth I wrote an essay on the family and got a prize, but I knew nothing of the family." Galanthus Imperati was introduced by Mr. Atkins, who sold his stock to me. It was the largest-flowered species I have seen. The flower, including the ovary, as well as I can recollect, measured IJ inches. Returning to Cyclamen, I recollect the pleasure I got from the foliage after the flowers were past of C. neapoli- tanum, and I thought what a grand winter bed the plant would make if associated with Scilla sibirica or S. bifolia. Chionodoxa at that time 116 THE GARDEN. [Februaky 25, 1905, had not been introduced. I found, however, a severe winter disfigured the leaves ; still, in a well-sheltered corner all might be well. I would say, Bo cautious about the "fairly moist soil." Plants that grow on dry banks are apt to resent moist ground. In Palestine I found Cyclamen persicum in great abundance on dry banks fully exposed to the sun. Some were fragrant, and others not. I sent some roots to my sons to give to raisers of new varieties. Peter Bakr, V.M.H. AN INTERESTINU PARASITE (Lathr^vA sqoamaria). [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — The above-named plant is the common Tooth-wort of our British flora, and is nearU' related to the Orobanches or Broom-rapes. It is a parasite found growing on the roots of trees, especially the Hazel. It is well worthy of a place in the garden, and would be a welcome addition to the wild garden, a position which would suit it admirably if a suitable host plant could be found for it. The colony from which the accompanying photograph was taken is growing on the roots of the Hazel near the margin of a pond in the Cambridge Botanic Gardens. It has developed from a piece which was planted among the roots of its host eight years ago and has become thoroughly established. The rootstock is fleshy and creeping, and is densely clothed with thick fleshy scale leaves, which are said to be specially adapted for trap- ping small insects, from the dead bodies of which the plant is supposed to obtain some of its nitro- genous food. The whole structure below ground is almost pure white. The flower-spikes, which appear in spring and early summer, are erect when fully developed, from 6 inches to 10 inches high, and are covered with scale-leaves which gradually merge into bracts. The flowers are numerous, the style projecting beyond the corolla, the whole spike being of a very pale flesh colour. Near by is a fine mass of Lathrasa clandestina growing on the roots of the Willow, which in early summer produces huge cushion-like masses of its purplish flowers. They seem to grow best in a fairly moist situation, and are not difiicult to establish if a suitable host plant is found, either by transplanting a piece of the rootstock or from seeds which can be scattered among the roots near the surface. E. J. Allard. Botanic Gardens, Cambridge. Carnations are influenced by a difference of soil, season, and situation. I remember one of my men who went to a garden in the Midlands telling me that the variety Mrs. Reynolds Hole very seldom burst with him ; here it is one of the worst offenders. I have grown few of the newest sorts, but give a selection of some older ones that have been tried and not found wanting. They may be of service to " W. I."; they are emphatically non-bursters here. Countess of Paris, still one of my best, has a very long season; it bears the earliest and latest (occasional) flowers, very free ; reported a poor grower from some parts, but this is probably the fault of the culti- vator. Having rather wiry foliage it requires a long rooting season, and should be layered as early as possible. Cassandra (I fancy there are two varieties under this name) is similar with me in colour to Countess of Paris, but larger and later. Mrs. E. Hambro and Diamond are two good whites, the first-named a very pure sym- metrical flower ; Diamond heavier in build with large petals. Miss Audrey Campbell is my best yelluw, and Carolus Duran and a seedling the best bus's. Boadicea is a very fine pink ; there is just a little tendency to split in this, but I had to discard Ketton Rose (quite a non-burster), as the latter was decidedly a poor grower. Black Bess is similar in colour to Mephisto and Uriah Pike, and better in constitution ; it is the best very dark variety I have tried. Thoroughly good scarlets are few and far between. I am still growing Hayes' Scarlet and a sort that came to me under the name of Mars. A capital seedling of this shade, together with other good things, was lost in the February of 1895. The above, as I have said, combine all the essentials of a first- class border Carnation. Newer varieties as introduced should do the same before they are allowed to supersede the old. Superiority in size and form of flower alone are not sufficient. Claremont. E. Burrell. NON-BURSTING CARNATIONS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — In answer to the question on page 96 about non-bursting Carnations, I am afraid the per- centageof these varieties also possessing hardiness, free-flowering, and a good vigorous habit is small. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I read a note in reply to a question in your issue of the 11th inst. from " W. I." about "Carnations which do not split their calyx." Your correspondent does not say if for indoor or border cultivation, neither what colours or varieties are required. I therefore give a few of various classes and colours which can be depended upon, although there may be an occasional split calyx, according to the season. Selfs : White— Much the Miller, Condor, Mrs. Eric Hambro, Cordelia, and Trojan ; blush — Eva, Scarlet Etna, Calisto, and Mrs. E. S. Diver ; rose — Bomba (scented) and Barras ; pink — Mrs. Guy Sebright and Exile ; terra-cotta — Benbow ; purple— Helen ; yellow— Germania, Cecilia, Mrs. M. V. Charrington,and Britannia ; dark claret — Nubian, Uriah Pike (scented). Sir Bevys, and Agnes Sorrel. Fancies: Yellow grounds — a beautiful BRITISH PARASITE (LATUR.-EA SQUAMARIA). (This is often found ijrotcinj upon the roots of the Hazel Nut, as shown in the illustration.) Amphion, Buckhardt, Henr}' Falkland, Czarina^ Hidalgo, and Charles Martel. Other fancies = Ormonde and Ivo Sebright. Yellow ground Picotees : Lady St. Oswald, Lord Napier, Bachelor, Mrs. R. Sydenham, &c. I will not mention numerous white ground Picotees, as " W. I." may not be interested in them. Let him come to the Carnation Society's show at the Horticultural Society's hall in July and select for himself a further lot. Limpsjield. E. Charrington. [To the Editor or "The Garden."] Sir, — In reply to the question " Carnations that do not burst their calyx " in The Garden of the nth inst., page 96, the following twelve border Carnations and Picotees will be found reliable. The flowers do not burst and the plants grow vigorously, except perhaps Germania. They are also exhibition varieties of the first class. Much the Miller and Hildegarde, white ; Ger- mania or Almoner, yellow ; Lady Hermione, rose;. H. J. Cutbush, scarlet ; and Agnes Sorrel, maroon. Fancies : Richness, Charles Martel, and Henry Falkland. Yellow ground Picotees : Lady St. Oswald, GroDow, and Gertrude. Woodnde Park, N. R. M. MELON CULTURE AT FARNHAM. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Whilst a recent article on " Melons and How to Grow Them" was in The Garden admirably illustrated by a picture of Melons as seen any summer in one of Mr. Mortimer's houses at- Farnham, the article makes no mention of the- Farnham methods of culture. Mr. Mortimer devotes several long span houses annually to- Melon culture. Grown in some cases as trials, inclusive of many varieties, some of first-class varieties for seed production, and in few places, if in any, are Melons more successfully pro- duced. Sometimes a house has Melons on one- side and Cucumbers on the other. All the houses are comparatively low spans. Whether there be, as in some cases, soil beds on either side or broad stages. Melons are grown in raised troughs elevated on wood blocks at either side over the pairs of pipes which run along near the walls. These troughs are about 20 inches wide, and consist of stout, open trellis bottoms with movable close board sides, making each trough inside some 6 inches deep. When fixed ia position the coarser material of the compost used, always containing turfy and fibrous matter, is laid at the bottom, and on that the soil, which is rather elevated or rounded in the centre, thu» making there a depth of some 7 inches. The arrangement is of such a facile nature that a» two crops are grown in the house each year no sooner is the first crop cleared than the soil is removed, the troughs taken out, well washed, and lime whitened, the house cleansed and fumi- gated, then the whole process is gone over again, fresh soil being used. In this way all chances of fungoid or insect trouble is avoided. The plants are commonly planted out 15 inches apart whea they have made their first one or two rough leaves. One never sees here leaves eaten up with spider and thrips or with mould. The houses are not swamped, but kept rather dry, and have ample light and air. Pity it is that Mr. Mortimer's place is so remote. A visit in summer is well repaid. A. D. SCHIZANTHUS WISETONENSIS. [To the Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — We agree with your correspondent " R. D." that this plant should be more grown. We should, however, like to emphasise that the earlier the sowing the greater satisfaction can be obtained. When we introduced this plant a few years ago we found that the plants commencing to flower late in the summer and during the hottest time of the year suffered somewhat Id February 25, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 117 conaequenco, whereas those flowering in the early summer have a longer flowering period, and, in fact, remain in bloom some ten or twelve weeks in a beautifully fresh condition. Enfield, N. Hugh Low and Co. LOVE-IN-A-MIST. ' [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — Most gardeners are acquainted with that beautiful annual flower commonly called Love-in- a-Mist (Nigella damascena), but probably not so many have noticed the curious form and quaint beauty of the seed vessels. I consider them so ornamental that I have sent you a drawing to show their character. If you are able to publish it it may help to popularise this annual, which is very easily grown, and yields a rich harvest of flowers and fruits. Surbiton. J. H. E. feel sure, if the knife were used more in summer, not only would it reduce the work in winter, but we should see greater results from our labours. I have, from three years' experience of an old renovated orchard, proved the value of summer pruning, and if your readers had seen the orchard referred to three years since, and had seen the same during the fruiting season of 190-1, they would have been bound to ac- knowledge that it was then bear- ing a marvellous crop of fruit. This I attribute largely to the CHINESE CABBAGE. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — In reply to a correspondent ("F. M.") in The Garden it is called Pe-Tsai. The only seedsman who sells it, as far as I know, is J. M. Thornburn, 36, Cortlandt Street, New York. I have grown it, and the plant much resembles a Cos Lettuce in growth, the green having the appearance of a Turnip more than a Cabbage. It will not stand frost, and is also very liable to bolt to seed before it hearts in fit to eat. There is nothing remarkable about its quality ; it tastes like Spinach. It should be grown in damp and shade. There are many better vegetables to take its place. E. J. Vokes. Kingsworthy, WincIieUer. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — In the English edition of " The Vegetable Garden," by MM. Vilmorin-Andrieux, there are two varieties of Chinese Cabbage (Brassica sinen- sis), mentioned on page 147- These seem to be what your correspondent " F. M." is referring to (The Garden. February 11). Cyril Walker. Funtington Vicarage, Chichester. APPLE PEASGOOD'S NONSUCH. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — In The Garden for January 21 (page 42) "A. D.," in writing of the parentage of Apples, describes Peasgood's Nonsuch as "so worthless a variety so far as quality is concerned." This is rather strong language, and I wish to ask if this judgment is to be accepted. Others that we have been accustomed to regard as authorities do not express the same views as to the quality of this well-known Apple. For instance, the " Fruit Manual " says : "Flesh yellowish, tender, very juicy, with an agreeable acid flavour. A fine culinary or dessert Apple"; "British Apples," by A. F. Barron, "First quality " ; George Bun- yard and Co. , "Its good qualities and excellent fiavour recommend it" ; J. Cheal and Sons, " Good in every way " ; James Veitch and Sons, "A very valuable variety." Now are these authorities combining to foist off on the public a worthless article, for if it is worthless they know it as well as "A. D.," or is the latter mistaken? Belper. J. Francis. curious dwarf spiny-leaved Oik, of which I forwarded specimens for identification. It grows low and thick, like a Berberry, bears quantities of Acorns, is evergreen, and has leaves just like Holly. These qualifications seem to pjint it out as a perfectly ideal bush — it seems odd to be calling an Oikja bush, but it is one — for planting in game covers, ll would be interesting to know if anyone has tried it, and if it stands our climate as the Ilex does. C. J. Cornish. MARGUERITE CARNA- TIONS AS CUT- FLOWERS. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — IseeinTiiEGARDENoE the 2Sth ult. a note about Marguerite- Carnations, by Mr. Charles Jones, in which he pretaces- his remarks by saying that they are of great service for yielding cut flowers in autumn and winter. I should be interested to know if by this is meant that they have in Mr. Jones' experi- ence proved satisfactory for any length of time after they have been cut and placed in water. There is no doubt that they are very effective and light when growing, and in this way most useful at the time of year when they bloom, but my experience of them (I have only grown them once) in a cut state was moat disappointing; the flowers soon closed up after they were arranged in water, and for this reason I have not grown them again. It would be interesting if others would give their experience of Marguerite Carnations as cut flowers. St. Asaph, North Wales. W. A. Watts. THE FRUIT GARDEN. SEED VESSELS OP love-in-a-mist. (nigella damascena.) I FRUIT CULTURE. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I am highly pleased with the article on " Summer and Winter Pruning of Fruit Trees," which your correspondent has dealt with in a very businesslike manner. I am afraid the pruning of fruit trees is much neglected, and I attention paid to the summer as well as to the winter pruning of the trees. Wm. R. Peinoe. Antony House, Cornwall. KERME'S OAK FOR GAME COVERS. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I am much obliged for the information kindly sent as to the name and habitat of the VINERY AND FORCING HOUSE COMBINED. SINCE the building of glass houses has been so much simplified and cheapened, it has become the custom among many to construct houses specially adapted to meet the requirements of the plants it is intended to grow, whether it be Grapes, Peaches, Melons, Strawberries, and other fruits, or flowers such as Orchids, Carna- tions, &c., so that the combination vinery has been practically lost sight of. In large gardens where glass houses are numerous this dual house may not be needed, but where glass accommoda- tion is limited a house like this would be found most serviceable. At the Royal Gardens, Frog- more, there used to be a vinery of this description planted with Black Alicante Vines, and better crops than were produced in this vinery no one could wish to see. If the Grapea were not con- sumed by Christmas, those left were cut off and put into bottles of water in the fruit room, and the Vines turned out of doors through the front lights, these being taken off to allow the Vines to pass. The space between the uprights was large enough to admit of the Vines being carefully and gradually drawn out and secured to stakes in a horizontal line in front of the vinery, where they would remain until the end of the following April. They were then taken back to the vinery, often with new shoots on 2 inches or 3 inches long. I need scarcely say that the work of taking the- Vines back with this growth on required the utmost care in carrying out. As soon as they 118 THE GARDEN. [February 25, 1905 were secured outside, the portable lights were again put back, leaving the house empty and available for the growth of any crop the owner might wish to use it for the next few months. ] In the case under notice Strawberries in pots were invariably the first crop, followed usually by French Beans, also in pots, a portable stage being removed to accommodate these plants. In order to carry out this plan outside borders only should be used, and the Vines planted outside and taken in at the bottom of the lights, space for this purpose being left. The Vines while they remaiu outside are protected by mats, and in severe weather a good covering of littery straw or rough manure is added. T. 3 feet long issuing from the main stem. As seen recently in a plant 4 feet high or thereabouts the growth was somewhat sparse. Throughout the length of these arching branches clusters of small oval scarlet red berries are pro- duced from the leaf axils. The berries are similar in size and colour to the fruits of the white Thorn. APPLE CHELMSFORD WONDER This is a very fine cooking variety, and only wants to become well known, when I am certain it will prove a general favourite with fruit growers. The fruits are of the Wellington type, very heavy and solid, bright yellow on the shaded side, dotted and streaked with red where exposed to the sun ; they should be allowed to hang late on the tree, then they will keep sound until May. Our best fruits have been obtained from pyramid trees on the Paradise stock, but from the appearance of young standards on the Crab it will make a good orchard standard. Its cooking qualities are excellent. Charlbs Page. Dropmore Gardens, Buclx. TREES AND SHRUBS THE KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE. (Gymxocladus canadensis.) THIS is a very striking tree, owing to its distinct and handsome leaves, and in winter its peculiar half-dead-like appearance. The naked wood is almost destitute of small sprays, and the points of the branches are thick and blunt compared with almost any other tree. It is one of the latest of all to unfold its leaves in the spring. The leaves are sometimes as much -as 3 feet long, and 2 feet across at the widest part. When of this size they impart quite a sub-tropical appearance "to the plant, but it is only when they are young and vigorous that ■auch massive leaves are produced, those on adult plants being much -smaller. Even then the tree is of a very dis- tinct type, which fea- ture is heightened by the peculiar bluish green •of the foliage. The flowers are not very ■ornamental, but, being so noticeable in other respects, it is, from its indifference to soil and -situation, well worth the attention of the ■planter. Still, it grows more quickly in a good ■deep soil and a fairly sheltered position. Despite all this, however, it may be sought for in vain in iraost tree and shrub nurseries. The specific name of canadensis would imply that it is principally to be found in Canada; but it is, I believe, more plentiful in some of the States. From the fact that some of the early settlers roasted the Bean-like seeds as a substitute for Coffee, its popular name of Kentucky Coffee Tree is derived. H. P. effective in a mass, yet it forms a useful and interesting addition to the shrubbery. It also has the advantage of succeeding in very poor soils, where many shrubs would prove a failure. The flowers are inconspi- cuous, but during the latter end of the summer and throughout the autumn the white seed-cases are very showy. After the}' expand and reveal theseeds a pleasing contrast isformed. The best specimen I have seen of this shrub is growing in the gardens of Wistow Hall, Leicester, where Mr. Clark has everything to perfec- tion ; it is now fully 10 feet in height. When I saw this plant last autumn it was carrying immense quantities of fruit, and was quite worthy of the position on the lawn. A. E. Thatcher. EDITOR'S TABLE. W ■ E invite our readers to send us any- thing of special beauty and in- terest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything . from the garden, whether truit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, W.C GRACEFUL-BERRIED (COTONEASTER PANNOSA.) (Given an award o/ nwrit hy the Royal SorticuUwal Society on January M.) A GRACEFUL-BERRIED SHRUB. '(CoTONEASTER PANNOSA.) This Cotoneaster is a rather graceful and elegant growing species with arching stems of 2 feet or should make a pretty object when grouped freely, and standards of it would be very ornamental. The berries long retain their good colour, hence the value of the plant in ornamental gardening. E, J. THE WHITE-FRUITED SPINDLE WOOD. (EOONYMUS ECROP.-KDS FRUCTtJ-ALBO. ) Where shrubs with ornamental fruits or seed- pods are appreciated this variety of the European Spindle Wood certainly deserves inclusion. Although not so vigorous in growth as the well-known E. europieus, and, perhaps, not so Double Chinese Primrose (Pri- mula SINENSIS alba PLENA.) Few plants give a better return than the one under notice when well cultivated, and yet it is not half as much grown as its merits deserve. Many have tried it and failed, not altogether because thej' did not understand its culture, but because they did not happen to have a suit- able position for its propagation. Perhaps no better samples are to be seen than those that come into Covent (iarden, and these market nurserymen would not grow it unless they found a read}' sale either for the plants or for the cut bloom. It is doubtful whether any plant produces such a wealth of blossom as does this Primula from the middle of November until mid-April, a period that most will admit is when white flowers are always in great demand. It may be rightly called a " cut-and-come-agaiu plant," as it continues to push up other trusses, and in a few weeks is again as white as snow and the admiration of all who see it. Some may object to it on account of its short spikes when cut, but where buttonholes, sprays, or wreaths and crosses are in great demand it will be found invaluable; it is likewise of much service as a table plant when grown in 4-inch or even 5-inch pots, and we con- sider 5^-inch pots quite large enough for the finest specimens. Early in March we select the more robust of the plants, trim off the bottom leaves and all flower-spikes with a pair of scissors, and mound up well amongst the growths a mix- ture of finely-sifted loam and leaf-soil in about equal parts, adding a nice sprinkling of silver sand and some chopped sphagnum, mixing all February 25, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 119 I thoroughly together, and making it fairly firm around the collar. Then a dusting of silver sand is given on the surface. They are then stood in a north pit on an ash bottom, the foliage almost in contact with the glass, admitting just enough ventilation to prevent the foliage getting drawn, and keeping top-dressing as well as the foliage daily sprinkled with a rose can ; in fact, the plants must be kept constantly moist until they are split up early in the month of May. After turning out of their pots and shaking away the soil from the old ball of roots a sharp knife is brought into use to cut off each growth with as much root attached as possible — not old root attached to the plant, but young fibrous roots that have penetrated into the top-dressing — and potting each growth carefully into 3-inch or 3J-inch pots, according to the quantity of roots each little plant has. A similar soil is used as before stated, with the exception of the sphag- num. Place a surfacing of silver sand over each pot and return to the same quarters as before, watering each plant with a rose can, and keep close and shaded from the sun for a month or so, or until you can see they begin to grow, when air should be admitted gradually, but still shading from the sun. It should be added that the plants are sprinkled with the syringe once or twice daily, accord- ing to the weather, while being kept close ; in fact, the plants are daily damped thus throughout their growing period. From these small pots they are shifted into their flowering size, as given above, as soon as it is seen that the roots are working well down the side of the pot. At this potting the compost may be somewhat coarser and the leaf -soil more flaky. Add a little soot, also bone-meal, and pot firm, returning the plants to the same position, and, after a few days admitting abun- dance of fresh air and shade, as before stated. Applying water at the root requires judgment, and should be entrusted to a capable man. As soon as the pots get full of roots a little weak guano water once a week will assist them greatly. Towards October it will be necessary to take them to the green- house, where a little fire- heat can be turned on on cold nights or wet, dull days. A shelf quite near the glass roof is the best position for them, and when in full flower can be stood on the stage of the greenhouse, but the plants flower much better and do not sufi^er from damp if kept within 18 inches of the glass roof throughout the winter months. We grow about 150 plants. I am for- warding a specimen with these notes, having a large number equally as good, or would have been had they not been gathered from, as is the case with the one sent, Bicton Gardens, Devon. [Mr. Mayne kindly sends a plant to show the value of his very successful method of culture. The plant was smothered with flowers. — Ed.] Tea Rose Pauline Laeonte. Mr. Mayne also sends from The Gardens, Bicton, East Budleigh, flowers of this Rose. Its colouring is refined and made up of shades of rose, salmon, orange, and buff, a mingling of beautiful tints, which give to many of the Tea Roses their great charm. The scent is sweet and strong. The Winter Sweet (Chimo.manthus fbagrans) AND HaMAMELIS ZDCOARINIANA. A boxful of flowers of these winter-flowering shrubs from Mr. Anthony Waterer, Knap Hill, Woking, is a reminder of their sweet beauty at this season. A few twigs of the Chimonanthue will scent a large room, and the Hamamelis is a bright spot of colour in the garden on a January day. Acacia cultkiformis. Strongly reminiscent of the Riviera, where it forms a glorious sight in early spring, are the flowers of Acacia cultriformis, sent to us by Mr. A. G. Gentle, gardener to Mrs. Denison, Little Gaddesden, Berkhampsted, Herts. Mr. Gentle writes : "I am sending a few small sprays of Acacia cultriformis. It started to flower this year on the 18th ult., and is now in full beauty, being winter bedding. They call it Cornuta alpina, but it has little Cornuta strain in it as far as I can see. It is, however, very dwarf and free-flowering, and makes an effective bed, especially when a winter like this, with three nights of severe frost, has devastated gardens. I have never seen it in England in summer, and as it is raised from seed nothing could be easier than to grow it and see how it behaves in summer." [The flower is very deep purple in colour. — Ed. Violets rROM Kilkenny. From Iniatioge, County Kilkenny, Mr. P. J. Malcomson sends some delightful bunches of Violets, and writes: "I enclose a few Violets or the Editor's Table. They are The Czar and Admiral Avellan (double), Neapolitan, and Mrs. .1. J. Astor. These have been in flower outdoors all through the winter, and were much better than those in frames. We have picked a lot of flowers from them." NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. cyclamen LIBANOTICOM. (From a drawing by H. G. Moon.) -James Mayne, one mass of yellow. I need hardly say that it adds greatly to the beauty of the conservatory. Most of the sprays are over 2 feet in length. The plant is about 15 feet by 12 feet." Viola cornota alpina. Mr. Woodall writes from Nice: "I send you a flower of the sort so much grown here for HARDY CYCLAMEN. (C. lieanoticum.) A R D Y Cyclamens are deservedly a popular class of plants, coming into flower at a time when few other things are in bloom. Therefore an to the spring - flowering section, in the above plant, will be warmly welcomed, espe- cially as it is so distinct and good. C. libanoticum was introduced into this country in the year 1899, having been found with C. ibericura and C. persicum in the valleys of the Lebanon, at an elevation of from 2,600 feet to 4,500 feet. The rocky ground is of a chalky nature, and the plants are always found in shade, amongst the roots of shrubs and trees. The corms are large and scaly, and the large-shaped leaves, which have entire margins, are marked with a silver zone on the upper surface, the under surface being dark violet. The flowers are large for a hardy Cyclamen, having reflexed segments nearly an inch in length, and about one-third of an inch in width. They are sweetly scented, bright pale rose in colour, with a carmine blotch at the base. Judging from its behaviour so far, it appears to be very free in habit, producing an abundance of bloom in February and March. There is no doubt as to its hardiness, but it should always be planted where it will receive a certain amount of shade. The hardy Cyclamens are very charming just now in the hardy alpine house in the herba- ceous ground in the Royal Gardens, Kew. The dainty little flowers are very pretty seen close to the eye, and the plants are as well worthy of being grown in this way as on the rock garden. The alpine house in early spring is the most attractive spot in the garden of the writer. .■ 120 THE GAEDEN. [February 25, 1905. GARD8NING FOR BSGINNSRS. SIMPLE HINTS EXPERIMENTAL GARDENING. This is of very little use as regards the future unless exact records are kept. The lives and work of many gardeners, both amateur and pro- fessional, have been one long experi- ment, although through no exact records being kept the real value is lost. Unfortunately, too often through a loose mode of action the practical man's work, though it may be satisfactory to himself, may not, from his lack of the use of figures, satisfy others. In making experiments in manuring, or in any other matter in gardening, there must be some given object in view and results, and the mode of reaching them must be exactly tabulated. In his work the gardener often measures his artificial manures with a flower-pot, or simply dips his hand into the bag and transmits its contents to the can or pail. This may produce good results, but it is not science as now understood. In experimental manuring the work must be carried out on a series of plots exposed to the same influences and all of the same size, and there must be no guess- work in anything. The plots need not be large, but the soil should be of the same character, which ought to be ascertained by analysis. The Foientist is abroad, and here is work which the beginner with a scientific bent may carr}' out with interest and profit to himself and others in testing the effect of various manures upon different plants on measured plots of land. Potato Experiments. — There are several modes of expression one hears often now which do not sound pleasantly to a humble searcher after truth, and the way in which this word science is applied to my mind sounds rather pedantic ; but let that pass. I was thinking about some useful experiments in Potato culture which anyone without any claim to be a scientist can carry out. I have neither time nor space to discuss the matter fully now, but the experiment I was thinking of is this ; To give Selected Potatoes More Boom and treat them to a series of trials of different manure. Take, say, half a dozen sets of one or more of any of the new Potatoes, and allow each set a square yard to grow in ; the ground to be deeply trenched and in fair condition. Then select a similar number of sets of the best of the older kinds, such as Cigarette, Windsor Castle, or any kind which has given satisfaction to growers generally, and plant in the same way, all sets to be of the same weight as far as possible. The Manner of Manuring. — The largest part of Potato ash after combustion is composed of potash and phosphates, and in any system of manuring these substances should predominate. In other respects experimenters should have a free hand. Assuming the Potatoes are planted with the spade or drilled in, some part of the potash mixture should be put in with the seed. The other part, with other more rapidly-acting manure, could be applied later. Of course, one plot would have no manure at all. The Season for Pruning Trees and Shrubs. — Tn many gardens too much pruning is done ; the individual character of the plant is spoilt by cutting things to one level. In other gardens the shrubs are neglected, and nothing is done to help them; or, as Shakespeare has it, "to mend Nature." Evergreens, conifers excepted, should be pruned just as the sap is on the point of rising. Conifers, if any pruning is required, should have attention when all danger of spring frost is passed. Deciduous flowering shrubs should be pruned immediately the flowers fade. Blindness in Strawberries. — One cause of blindness is planting in loose, rich ground. The plants make so much foliage and of such a rank however, with small pieces of cake will often character the crowns fail to ripen and there are draw the wireworras away from a crop. Most no flowers. This is brought about by errors of : birds are, fortunately, very fond of them. These culture, and would not have happened if the grubs vary somewhat in size according to the ground had been made firm before planting, kind, but the largest species is hardly more that> stuck into it, so that it may be the more easily found. Examine the traps every morning, and it is often said that wireworms are so fond of Rapecake that they will eat it until they burst ; but this is a pure fiction, as they have been fed only on cake for some weeks, and have thriven wonderfully well on it. Strewing the ground. There are other causes due to the sexual struc ture of the flowers, but as a rule we are quite safe if we propagate from femile plants only and plant in firm land. Protecting Fruit Tree Blossoms from Frost in Spring. — The blossom buds of Apricots and Peaches are now getting prominent, and the means of protection should be overhauled and made ready. I have always saved a crop by the use of fishing nets. In some instances I have used the nets double, in others only single thick- ness of netting was used, and in the latter case there was plenty of fruit for a crop. The nets should fasten on to poles fi.xed under the coping, and the bottoms let into the ground 3 feet from the wall. three-quarters of an inch in length and one-eighth of an inch in diameter. They are of a yellowish colour, with brown heads and legs. The latter are short and placed near the head. The click beetles are long, narrow insects, of a dull brown, grey, or yellowish brown colour, as a rule, but; some are more brightly coloured. Liquid Stimulants for Pot Plants. — Chemioa) manures are cleanly and leave no bad smell ; a. lady might use them. We keep two or three kinds in stock, and use all in turn, as we think plants like a change of diet occasionally. But it is not of much use giving stimulants to sickly plants. Some people have an idea that a plant doctor should give medicine like his prototype in the human family does. The doctor keeps his secrets, and very often Nature effects its own Japanese Plants. — The Japanese are very good cures by regulating the diet, and this diet rarely gardeners. They manipulate their little trees in , includes stimulants, a way which shows how patient and painstaking they are. They are sending us now thousands of Hare's-foot Ferns wound up in balls and in various fanciful designs, which seem to take the fancy of buyers. They are easily managed. If hung up in a warm house for a time fronds spring out in all directions, and with a weekly dip in a tepid bath they will give no further trouble. Pruning Bush Apples. — After the foundation has beenlaidnot much pruning is required. Study each tree. Keep the centre open. Permit no branch to- cross or encroach upon its neighbour. Thin the young wood in summer towards the end of July, when it is getting firm at the base, and leave four good leaves on each stem to find work for the tree to do in filling up the buds instead of Wireworms. — These pests are the grubs of i rushing into soft useless spray. At the winter beetles belonging to the family Elaterid;e. There ! pruning remove unripe ends of shoots and are a considerable number of species, and they I shorten back spurs. Do not overcrowd, and are commonly known as click or skipjack beetles, bear in mind that there must be some annual on account of the power they possess of springing development in sizes, away with a click when disturbed. The wire- worms attack a great variety of plants, and are " He Who Plants Pears, Plants for His especially fond of Carnations and other nearly Heirs." — This old proverb is often quoted in allied genera. Insecticides have little or no disparagement of planting Pear trees. Like effect on them, so that trapping must be resorted | most old sayings, this is no doubt based upon & to. The best traps are slices of Carrot, Mangold, : certain modicum of truth, but should not be Potato, Turnip, or pieces of Rapecake, buried i interpreted in the sense it is generally under- about 1 inch below the surface of the ground. ! stood. The Pear tree, if planted in good soil Each slice should have a small wooden skewer | and allowed sufficient space for extension, will in the course of years assume the proportions of a miniature forest tree, as witness many of the old Pear trees in the orchards of Worcester and other counties, and will produce abundant crops for scores — if not for hundreds — of years. Thus considered the old saying is perfectly true. But it does not say that bush or pyramid Pear trees, planted in suitable soil and under intelligent cultivation (especially when worked on the Quince stock), will not return to the planter for his own enjoyment and profit plentiful crops and as expeditiously as the Apple or an}' other fruit tree ; this, neverthe- less, is a fact. Window Plants. — One of the best of aU window plants is the so-called Parlour Palm (Aspidistra lurida) and its variety variegata. It will stand draughts and a slight frost, but wiKEWORMS. '^' °f course, more luxuriant when not exposed to such trials. The leaves must be kept gently 1 and 3. Afjriotes limatus. S and h. Agriotcs obxmrus. sponged from time to time to remove dust, and 5 and c. Anriotea sputator. 7 and S. Wirt'worws, .1. ■ \^ i c j„-^ c *.u- rri. a „ natural size: 0. Wirewonn. magnified. 10 and 11. their hard surface admits of this. The flowers Chrynatis. are very quaint and interesting. February 25, 1905.] THE GAKDEN. 121 GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. BEDDING GERANIUMS.— Autumn-rooted plants should now be potted, reboxed, or mossed, the latter being much the most satis- factory where wood moss is plentiful or can be procured at a cheap rate. The operation is more easily performed than described. You hold a thin cake of clean moss, flat, on the palm of the left hand ; with the right place the rooted cutting on it near the top edge and spread the roots ; lay the thumb of the left hand on the cutting stem near the root to hold in position ; sprinkle a little fine soil over and among the roots ; gather up the lower part of the moss until the roots and soil are enclosed in it, and then tie with wide matting somewhat similar to tying a small pot for packing. After tying place the plants back tightly in the boxes or on stages until the roots are again active. Then they can be removed to cold pits and plunged in light material. The moss will soon be full of young roots. Mossing, as briefly described above, takes a little more time to perform than actual potting, but it is time well spent and paid for subsequently, if only in the saving of labour in watering. It the moss is moist at planting it will retain moisture for a considerable time — at least, until roots strike into fresh soil— so that plants thus grown beconie established without hardly a leaf changing colour. Fewer Geraniums are now grown than formerly— and rightly so, too, I think— for they are flne- weather and sun-loving plants, conditions that do not always obtain in this fickle climate. Still, some are essen- tial in every flower garden for their brightness of colour while in bloom. Of varieties West Brighton Gem is a splendid colour for distant beds, and its crimson variety is its counterpart in all except colour. I consider these two ideal bedders, dwarf, stocky, and very free-flowering. Dryden is a flue bright rosy pink variety, but a strong grower. The scented-leaved Granston is unique for lines or beds, and the popular Ivy-leaved Mme. Crousse stands wet better than most. No whites that I have tried are quite satisfactory, all looking woe-begone and bedraggled after heavy and frequent rains. The best golden-leaved is Crystal Palace Gem ; the best bronze, Mar(5chal McMahon; and the best silver, Miss Kingsbury, but this variety reverts to the type a good deal. TtiBEKOtJS Begonias, sown as advised in a previous calendar, are now ready for pricking out. Fill the boxes with prepared soil, as recommended for sowing the seeds; make the surface moderately firm and quite level ; water through a fine rose, and when soaked, drained, and settled, dibble very small and shallow holes an inch or less apart all over the surface in readiness to drop in the tiny seed- lings. These are too small for handling, but a match-stem or lead pencil will pick up those that are ready. There will probably be several successional batches from the same sowing, as occasionally they germinate unevenly. Tedious as is this operation, it has to be done as soon as two tiny leaves are formed, or many will inevitably damp off. Keep close and moist and in the same temperature, and they will soon be ready for another shift. The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlch, North Wales. J. Eobekts. top.dressing. The stove varieties should be done first. With the exception of large specimens, most of these will require repotting, possibly only into the same size pot but as they require a large amount of water in a year, the soil becomes sour and impoverished and requires renewing Careful attention must be paid to drainage. In cool houses repotting is not necessary so often. A compost for a mixed collection of Ferns may consist of fibrous loam peat, leaf-mould, and sand. Where a large collection of several genera are grown it is advisable to vary the pro- portions of the compost a little. Adiantums, for instance like a more loamy compost than Davallias, while for the latter the compost should be rougher. After potting careful attention must be paid to syringing, ventilation and shading. ' Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. A. Osbokn. INDOOR GARDEN. The greenhouse or conservatory should now be very gay with plants which naturally fiower at this season and those which are brought on with a little extra heat Continue to introduce shrubs and bulbs at suitable intervals. Less heat is now required to get them into flower. For variety a few Moutan Piconies and Clematis may be brought in. Sparmannia africana is an extremely useful winter-flowering greenhouse plant. A few cuttings should now be inserted. Avoid too liberal treatment and overpottmg, or the result will be all growth and no flower. Plants of Abutilon Savitzii are always useful for mixing with flowering plants. Now is a good time to root a few cuttiUi-^s. Begonias.— As greenhouse flowering plants many of these are useful for summer or winter. Cuttings of some of the most useful may now be inserted. Old plants should also be gone over, the drainage attended to, and top-dressed or potted on as required. A few of the most useful are Corbeille de Feu, President Carnot, coccinea, eohinosepala, Dregei, fuchsioides, and semperflorens gigantea. The smaller-growing semperflorens varieties Mrs. Bertram Currie, rosea, and alba are best if propa- gated by division. SoLANDMS AND CAPSICUMS.— Several species of these two genera if sown about this date make very ornamental winter greenhouse plants. Sow thinly in pots or pans filled with light, rich soil, and plunge in a hot-bed. When 2 mches or 3 inches high the young plants should be potted off singly into 3-inch pots. Keep near the glass in a warm house where plenty of moisture is present. The size pots in which they are to fruit varies ; 6-inch pots will be suflicient for the smaller growing ; the stronger ones will require 6-inch or 8-inch pots. For the final potting use a rich soil composed of three parts fibrous loam and one of manure from a spent hot-bed, adding a little sand. Frequent syringing to prevent the attack of red spider will be necessary. The fruit commences to ripen in September, and will last in good condition for a long time. A selection of suitable kinds Is Solanum integrifolium, S. Melongena (Egg Plant), S. Worsleyi, Capsicum annuum, C. baccatum, and C. minimum. Ferns.— As the days lengthen and the sun becomes more powerful the Ferns will commtnci throwing up new fronds. Now is a suitable time to commence potting anu ORCHIDS. Dendkoeiums.— In the cool greenhouse, where some of the late-flowering Dendrobiums are still at rest, plants of Odontoglossum citrosmum are now starting into growth ; but for the present they should not be removed into the warmer house, because if the new growths are induced by heat and moisture to make a rapid advance they mi"ht grow away and produce no flowers at the proper season. Unless excessive shrivelling of the pseudo-bulbs occurs, the plants will require no water at the root until the flower- spikes are seen pushing up through the centre of the young growths. Immediately the spikes are discernible remove the plants to a warm sunny position in the Cattleya or intermediate house, affording them a moderate supply of water until the flowers open. An occasional syringing overhead on warm bright days will greatly assist the proper and full development of the spikes and flowers. If towards the end of March the young growths show no signs of flowering the plants should be removed to their growing quarters. The resting season being over, no amount of dryness at the root after this period will induce the plants to flower. The time to repot Odontoglos- sum citrosmum is immediately after the flowers fade. Those plants that tail to bloom may be repotted as soon as the growths are fairly active. Now flowering in the cool house is Odontoglossum coeonarium miniatum.— This variety blooms with far greater freedom than the stronger- growing O. coronarium, and should be obtained whenever possible. Both plants require fresh rooting material when growth recommences. Being strong scandent growers, they should be cultivated in long, narrow Teak wood baskets. Place large pieces of crock over the bottom of the basket, and fill between the roots and up to the base of the rhizome with clean freshly-gathered sphagnum moss, adding moderate quantities of small crocks and coarse silver sand. Afford the plants plenty of basket room, so as to give the large fleshy roots plenty of feeding ground. After root disturbance keep both plants near to the roof of the cool house, and supply them liberally with water the whole year round. During the early days of this month a few plants of Pleione humilis were in bloom in the cool house. Their small, pretty flowers when open are always appre- ciated. It is also the season for P. hookeriana and P. h. brachyglossa to bloom. Both are lovely sorts, but very rare. These Pleionea, coming from the Himalayan mountains at from 7,000 feet to 10,000 feet elevation, require very cool treatment the whole year round. The flowering season being now over, the plants should be examined to see if they require fresh compost or more room for the growths to extend themselves. On close inspection it will be seen that the purple-coloured shoots from which the flowers have sprung are commencing to grow, and from their base a quantity of new roots will be very quickly formed, which will supply the growths with nourishment during the coming season. These Pleiones are best grown in shallow pans, that may be suspended well up to the roof glass. Plenty of drainage should be afforded, the compost consisting of equal proportions of peat, loam, and chopped sphagnum moss, with a sprinkling of coarse silver sand, the whole of these materials being well mixed together. The other species of Pleiones, as P. maculata, P. lagenaria, P. concolor, P. prajcox, and its variety P. wallichiana, require to be grown in the coolest and most airy part of the Cattleya or intermediate house, and, now that they are growing rapidly, the supplies of water should be gradually increased. Syringe the under sides of the foliage two or three times a day when the weather is bright. Burfurd Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. must not be allowed to become dry, or fruit dropping will be the result. Keep a sharp look out for red spider, and sponge the leaves with a weak mixture of soft soap as soon as it is discovered. In starting succession houses one must be guided by the date on which it is most desirable the crop should be ripe ; but it is far better to start the house a week or so earlier, and force gradually, than to have to resort to vigorous measures later by hard firing. Assuming the trees are planted in shallow inside and well- drained borders, they will require liberal treatment in the way of stimulants, which must be given tepid. Stop the shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf, and remove any weakly growths and suckers. Admit plenty of air on favourable occasions to encourage hard short-jointed wood. The covering on trees outdoors must now be removed and the trees pruned and trained. Eemove a little of the surface soil and top-dress with fresh loam mixed with artificial manure and brick rubble. E.xamine the borders, and if dry give a thorough watering. Strawbeeiues in Pots.— It is a wise plan now to have a large batch of plants growing slowly in a moderately warm house. Select the best and strongest as they throw up their flower-spikes, and move them to warmer quarters as required. Keep them free from red spider, especially if they are in fruit houses. The syringe must be freely used, except when the plants are in flower, and the roots kept always moist. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. KITCHEN GARDEN. -No garden can be at all complete without its FRUIT GARDEN. Orchard House.— It is now necessary to place all trees intended for fruiting this season under glass. Wash the trunks and main branches with a mixture of soft soap and sulphur before placing them inside, and thoroughly cleanse the house both inside and out. Set out the trees on the floor of the house, if possible, in a methodical manner. The roots are now active, and it is important they should not suffer for want of water. When water is necessary, make sure that sufficient is given to soak the soil through. Before the trees come into flower fumigate the house. AVhen in flower tap the trees two or three times a day to disperse the pollen. Should a spell of cold wet weather supervene ferlilise the flowers with a camel-hair brush and slightly heat the water-pipes. Avoid sudden fluctuations of the temperature, which often result in a bad set of fruit. Figs in Pots.— These have made much progress during the past very favourable weather, and are approaching the flowering stage. Do not attempt hard forcing during this period. The night temperature may be kept steady at ab ut 60°, with a rise to 76" or 80" during the day. They will Leed constant attention in regard to watering, and Heebs.- bed or border of fibrous-rooted and bulbous herbs. Several of these will now claim attention by way of dividing and transplanting. Among herbs Garlic and .Shallots are favourites. A planting of both should now be made on a piece of moderately rich ground. Plant the bulbs 9 inches from row to row and 6 inches from bulb to bulb. Make a hole with the point of a trowel deep enough to bury three parts oi the bulb. Place the bulb in the hole, draw the soil around it with the fingers, and make fairly firm. Sage propagated in hand-lights last autumn may now be planted in beds 12 inches from plant to plant, every way placing the plants alternately. Mint, Tarragon, Thyme, Marjoram, &c., should also be attended to where the plants have overgrown their limits or have become ex- hausted. These should now be lifted and divided, retaining the best parts of the plants only, when the beds have been well dug and manured. Thyme may be planted fairly deep, and 6 inches from plant to plant. The other herbs mentioned, having a tendency to spread, may be planted 12 inches apart every way. As planting proceeds a little fresh soil laid about their roots will induce the plants to start into vigorous growth. Chera^il. — A sowing of Chervil may also be made, but this being an annual, a new bed will be required every year, the seed to be sown broadcast, and covered lightly with fine soil, making the size of the bed according to requirement. Parsnips and Salsait.— Sowings of each should now be made on ground both rich and deep. Choose dry weather to break up the surface, and draw out drills at an early hour of the day, so that by the influences of sun and wind the drills may be warm and dry for the reception of the seed in the afternoon. When sowing has been com- pleted cover with soil and rake lightly, drawing the rake parallel with the rows. Drills for Parsnips must be 12 inches apart ; for Salsify 9 inches will be sufficient. If shapely Parsnips are wanted for exhibition purposes make holes with a pointed crowbar, and fill with equal parts of sand, leaf-mould, and wood ashes. Sow two or three seeds in the centre of these prepared holes, retaining only the best plant when thinning time arrives for all purposes. Hollow Crown is my favourite variety. Cauliflowers that were sown last autumn and wintered in frames may now be planted out on a warm border, where the soil is of good quality. When hand-lights can be spared set these in a row about 12 inches apart. Plant one Cauliflower in each corner of the hand-light. Keep rather close for a day or two, and shade during bright sunshine with a few Spruce or Yew twigs until the young plants get fairly accustomed to their new quarters. Remove the tops of the hand-lights altogether when the weather becomes more genial. Y'oung Cauliflower plants raised on a hot-bed, as advised in a previous calendar, may also be planted in hand-lights, but where these are not available Spruce, Yew, or Laurel boughs afford good protection to young Cauliflower plants at this season. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcitdbright. ORCHIDS. THREE STEIKING CYPEIPEDIUMS. A L L I N G at Glebelands one day recently I was fortunate to see in flower Cypripedium Mrs. W. Mostyn Chard vrar var., C. ^son var. giganteum, and C. Olivia, all fine, and in their way the best of their respective classes. C. Mrs. W. Mostyn is a noble Lady's Slipper of colossal size. It is also striking from its black, white, and purple colouring. The parents are C. Boxalli var. atratum and C. Calypso c 122 THE GARDEN. [February 25, 1905. Oikwood var., which makes it a secondary cross and also supports the theor)' that hybridists are now working on, that the finest hybrids are to be obtained on this principle. Grand form and large size are both combined in this fine hybrid ; the whole flower is beautiful in its rich polished colouring. The dorsal sepal is bright green at the base, the middle being thickly covered with dark purple blotches on a white ground, working to a rich rose tint, and ending in a margin of white ; the broad and well-formed petals are, with the pouch, of a yellowish ground, veined and spotted with a deep purple. C ^-Eso7i rar, giganteum has for its parents C. insigne and C. Druryi. The huge dorsal sepal, with its shades of green and brown spotting, the upper half white, is most striking. The petals are brown, shaded with greenish yellow, while the pouch is much the same, but of a deeper yellow. This is the only very fine example from the seed-vessel. All the other plants have been just the ordinary ^nEson. The most valuable Cypripedium yet raised, viz., J. Gurney Fowler, is from a capsule, in which all the other plants on flowering (quite a number) proved to be ordinary C. leeanum, and there are other instances on record. The last of the trio is C. Olivia. — This is said to be bred from C. tonsuni and C. concolor, but it is probable that an error has been made here, and that C. niveum has given the beauty attributed to C. concolor. The soft ivory white and pink colouring of the whole flower, with its dotted purple lines, recalls C. niveum. In any case this is one of the very finest rosy white Cypripediums we have both for size and colouring. Other very fine specimens, in and coming into bloom, include Dendrobium wardianum var. fowlerianum, noted for its exquisite markings, which among Orchidists is known as tri-labellia, and of which a familiar example is the now plentiful Dendrobium Cooksoni ; the two lateral sepals have yellow markings with a purple blotch, after the manner of the colour displayed in the labellum, the rest of the flower being white, with rose-purple tips, as in the normal form. I also had the pleasure of seeing a specimen of the pretty hybrid Cattleya Miranda, a cross between C. TrianiB and C. guttata Prinzi. This has sepals of a beautiful rose colour, with petals of a deeper shade, both sepals and petals being somewhat spotted with purple. The lip has a rich crimson- purple front with white throat. Many other choice specimens were in flower in this collection, and no matter what the season of the year, some- thing of more than passing interest can always be found here. Argutus. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. POTATO SUTTON'S DISCOVEEY. A MONG new Potatoes Sutton's Discovery /% has taken a high place on account I \ of its extraordinary power of resist- L * ing disease, and its remarkable _/ ]^ fertility. The crop obtained from a single tuber, viz., llilb., is shown in the illustration. The vigour of this variety is most evident in late autumn, when the foliage remains erect and green after the shaws of other varieties have perished. The stems are brown and of a tough woody texture quite unlike those of ordinary Potatoes, and this characteristic materially assists in protecting the tubers from harm. We have grown this Potato, and can testify to its great cropping quality, and also to the good flavour of the tubers when cooked. RHUBARB CRIMSON WINTER. This is stated to be an "ever bearing" variety, and it originated in California about four years ago after being tested for three years, in which it proved a perpetual producer ; it is now in course of distribution. It is said to differ entirely from the common Rhubarb. Its flavour is excellent, and there is an entire absence of the fibrous strings in the stalks which are common to the old variety. It would be interesting to know the parentage of this new introduction. We are informed that it lias " proved in Cali- fornia to produce good marketable stalks fully six months earlier than any other variet}'. The stalks are from 6 inches to S inches long, and three-quarters of an inch to 1 inch in diameter." R. D. RHUBARB DAW'S CHAMPION FORCED. This new Rhubarb promises so well that it is „.^„^,. ^.„.^.„„. „ worth a special note on account of its splendid ' of Natural Selection.' forcing qualities. When grown in the open with only a little protection it is very fine ; its size goes a long way to make it a popular variety. It was given an award of merit in February, 1900, as a forcing variety by the Royal Horticultural Society, and cer- tainly it well deserved the award, as each season proves its excellence. I well remember the fine stalks that received the award when staged by Mr. Poupart of Twick- enham. It is ex- cellent when cooked, and it forces so readily. It is described as a seedling, the parents being the Victoria and the well-known Cham- pagne, both noted kinds, but the new one is much finer and very early. At this season, when the hardy fruit store is thinning fast, a good supply of forced Rhubarb is a welcome addition, and it is well to grow the best kinds. I feel sure those who July 4.— Sweet Pea Show and Meeting. Lecture by Pro- fessor H. J. Webber on "The Progress of Horticulture in the United States." July IS.— Carnation and Picotee Show and Meeting. Lecture by the Superintendent on "The Wialey Gardens."* August I.— Exliibition and Jleeting. Special prizes offered for Cactaceous plants. Lecture by Mr. C. T. Druery, V.M.H., on "British Ferns and their Wild Spurts."* August 15.— Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by Pro- fessor Craig on "Orchard Management. '+ August 29.— Exhibition and fleeting. Lecture by Mr. Lewis Castle on " Trees for Towns." September 12.— Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by Mr. W. P. Wright on "Potatoes."* September 26 and 27. — Autumn Kose Show. Meeting on September 26 and Lecture by ilr. W. F. Cooling on " Autumn Roses." October lu, 11, and 12.— Show of British-grown Hardy Fruits. October 24.— Vegetable Show and Aleeting. Lecture by the Rev. Professor G. Henslow, V.M.H., on "The Meaning THE PRODUCE OF A SINGLE TUBER OF POTATO SUTTON 'S DISCOVERY. give a trial will be pleased with it. Daw's Champion G. Wythes. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Shows, Mektinos, and Lectdres fok 1905. February 28.— Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by the Hon. J. H. Turner on "Fruit Growing in British Columbia. '* March 14. — Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by the Ilev. Professor G. Henslow, V.M.H., on "Bud Variation."* March 2Si.— Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by Mr. Frank Pink on " Bananas." March 30 and 31.— Show of Colonial-grown Fruit and Vegetables. April 11,— E.xhibition and Meeting. Lecture by Mr. T. J. Powell on " Retarded Potatoes." April 25.— Auricula and Primula Show and Meeting. Special prizes offered for Daffodils. Lecture by Mr. James Hudson, V.M.H., on "The Making of Japanese Gardens in England."' May 9. — Exhibition and Meeting, Lectures by Mr. N. Hayashion "Japanese Horticulture." and by Mr. R. Farrer on "Japanese Plants and Gardens."* May 23.— Tulip Show and Meeting. Lecture by Mr. E M. Holmes on " Medicinal Plants."* May 30, 31, and June 1.— Flower Show, Inner Temple Gardens. Fellows admitted after 12.30 on May 30 upon showing their tickets. June 20.— Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by the Rev, Professor G. Henslow, V.M.H., on "Plants of the Bible."* November 7. — Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by Dr. J. A. Voelcker, M.A., on " Horticultural Chemistry." November 21.— Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by Mr. E. T. Cook on "Hollies."* December 5 and 19.— Usual Exhibition and Meeting. * Lecture Illustrated by Lantern Slides. Note.— The Shows will be held in the Royal Horticul- tural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster, S.W., unless otherwise stated. Fellows are admitted free at 1 p.m. ; tlie public at 2 p.m. on payment of 23. Od. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. Names of Plants. — H. M. — Ivy palmata aurea. E. G. — The blue flower is Iris fimbriata, and the orange flower Imantophyllum miniatum. A. iShear7i. — Matricaria Chamomilla (Wild Chamomile), a common annual weed in many parts of the country. It must not be confounded with the true Chamomile (Antheniis nobilis). Names of Fruit.— .H. W. H. (Bedford).— \, Dutch Mignonne; 2, Nelson's Uodlin ; 3, Tibbett's Pearmain. February 25, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 12y Royal Horticultural Society {Ig. and others).— In response to several letters about the Royal Horticultural Society, the way to obtain information of its work is by applying to the Secretary, Vincent Square, Westminster. Chkistmas Rose {A. J. B.). — Among those with white flowers Helleborus altifoliua would suit you best. It is a larger sort than H. niger, the common Christmas Rose. The flowers, how- ever, are not usually so white as in H. niger, so you might grow this as well. The finest of the red-flowered sorts is H. colchicus, the flowers rise above the foliage on strong stems ; it blooms during February and March. H. altifolius is an early one, flowering before Christmas. July is the best time to divide or to transplant. If planted in well tilled and manured soil they need not be disturbed for five years or more. Pruning Rambler Roses {M. M. L.). — Your plants should be pruned early in March, that is, if they were from the open ground and not pot- grown. You say the shoots are about 10 feet long, which leads us to suppose they are upon pot-grown plants, but should it be otherwise cut back the growths at varying lengths from 1 foot to 2 feet from the base. The growths should be kept loosely tied to their supports, and in September pinch out their points to assist ripening, then the following year such growths should flower freelj'. Pot-grown plants having their roots established need not be cut back in this severe manner. We usually remove the unripe ends of the shoots and tie the others in the first j'ear. The second and succeeding years one or two growths are cut down to the ground, whilst the others are allowed to remain nearly full length. Carnations (iV. M. C). — It is not advisable to divide old plants. It is far preferable to layer all the shoots you can and have young plants ; they flower much more satisfactorily. If your old plants are flowering well, why disturb them. If they are not, layer the young shoots. This, however, should be done after flowering in August. Carnations do not need peat. Mix plenty of sand and road scrapings to lighten your heavy clay soil. Mix some manure with the soil, but not soot. Give this as a top- dressing when the plants are coming into flower. It is important to have the soil well dug. That part of the border which is empty you should well dig and mix sand, road scrapings, and manure with it. Plant out early in March if the weather is favourable. Leave your big clumps undisturbed till August, then layer the shoots. Well dig the soil next winter, add manure and sand, and plant the young plants next spring. Cbanothus {A. H. W. D.). — C. azureus flowers on the young wood, and should be cut back in spring. Allow only sufficient shoots to remain to form a presentable and well-balanced plant, and shorten them to within two or three buds of the old wood. C. americanus, C. integer- rimus, and the garden hybrids, such as Gloire de Versailles, &o. , all flower on the current year's shoots, and should be similarly out back. The remaining species flower on the old wood, and merely require to have the stronger shoots shortened and the weakly ones thinned out after the flowers are over. The Hypericums should be cut back fairly hard in early spring, as they flower on the young shoots. You should mulch your plants with a covering of manure in early summer, especially as your soil is sandy. Seakalb (Bournemouth). — If you want to force the roots this spring it does not much matter how many in reason you put in — plant, say, 3 inches apart. After forcing the roots may be thrown away. If, however, you want to grow the plants this year and force them next, your best plan would be to buy cuttings and grow them on. You can get Seakale pots of different sizes, so the number of roots placed under each pot would depend upon its size. Old barrels or boxes will do as well. Arrange the plants in a circle if you cover with a pot or barrel, and in a square or oblong if with a box. Leave 12 inches between each clump. You will find both plants and pots advertised in our pages. If you want to plant Seakale (not for forcing this year) put the root-cuttings in rows 15 inches apart, the cuttings 10 inches apart in the row. Potash for the Garden (R. O. O.). — There is no better way of supplying potash to a light soil at this season than by the addition of wood ashes, the residue of burnt wood, and vegetation matter. A spadeful to a square yard would be a fair dressing. Will a Hybrid Tea Rose do well on a grave mound in a churchyard ? Yes. If you want a red Rose plant Ulrich Brunner, if white plant Frau Karl Druschki, if pink Mrs. John Laing. Plant deeply, being on a mound, or the Roses will suffer from drought in summer. Pears for North Wall (E. H. IF.).— Only quite early Pears should be planted against a north wall, and even then their successful fruiting must materially depend on the nature of the season. We have seen in fairly warm districts such as yours is varieties like Williams' Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise d'Uccle, and Souvenir du Congr^s producing very good fruits on a north aspect in warm seasons, and even Winter N41is has occa- sionally fruited well. We have had the stewing Pear Catillac also doing well on the north, and it is well worth growing for stewing pur- poses. Victoria Plum commonly does well on a north aspect, so also will Gooseberries and Red Currants, especially if the latter be the fine Red Cherry. A few early Apples, such as Lord Grosvenor, Lady Sudeley, Stirling Castle, and Grenadier may also do well. Tropical Ipom.eas in the Open (H. M. W. B.). — The Ipomsea family is such an extensive one that it ia a difficult matter to name from the description and seeds alone, but we think you are right in assuming the first to be Ipom^a hederacea, the flowers of which vary much in colour. The second we take to be I. rubro- CEerulea, whose flowers become slightly suffused with a reddish tinge before they wither. The Moon-flower is Ipomsea Bona-nox, said to have been introduced into this country in 1773, but it is very seldom met with in gardens. A few years ago I. rubro-caerulea was sent across the Atlantic, under the name of "Heavenly Blue," as a beautiful new variety, but it turned out to be an old and well-known kind. A tropical species that we have several times flowered well out of doors during the summer is I. quaraoclit, the Cypress vine of the United States. This is a slender climber, with delicate, much-divided foliage, and small starry flowers of a bright red colour. Occasionally, however, they are white, and sometimes of a poor intermediate tint. Relaying Lawn (Lawn Tennis). — It would hardly be safe to relevel your lawn and expect it to be ready for play by May. If, however, you can wait until the end of June you might, by beginning at once, after levelling or relaying the turf, top-dress, sow seed, rake it well in, and roll. Water when necessary. Grass grows quickly in May and June, and the lawn should be ready for play by the end of the latter month if you attend to it well. The top-dressing of soil will help fill the interstices. To remove inequali- ties you cannot do better than follow Sutton's advice. Across the hollow cut with an edging- iron parallel lines in the grass, 10 inches or 12 inches apart, making also one cut in the centre at right angles to the others, then use the turf- cutter and roll back the turf from the centre. Make the bed perfectly level, leaving the soil with a firm but crumbled surface, carefully restore the turf, which will need to be compressed into its original position, beat down, water, and roll. In a few days no trace of the work will be visible. Sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda both encourage the growth of grasses, and so crowd out Clovers and other weeds. Do not apply more than lib. (whether mixed or separate) per rod of land. Cockchafer Grub and Geraniums (E. R.). — Thorough search, such as you have carried out, is the only way to rid borders of this pest. We should think that only one brood of larva caused the trouble, judging from the number your gardener found, and there is no serious likelihood of a recurrence of the trouble this season. The perfect insect lays its eggs about midsummer, these hatch quickly, and the larvae start feeding at once, and continue for about fourteen months. A further eight months is spent in the pupa state before the insect develops. Any grubs that may be left behind will, of course, be troublesome, and there is always the possibility of the female insect again visiting your garden at some future time and depositing eggs there ; on the other hand, you may never see them again. The cockchafer (Melolontha vulgaris) ia not a common garden pest in England, but, like most insects, it ia more frequent in some seasons than in others. Plants for Screen (Sarum). — We would recommend as climbers to cover the screen Clematis montana, Polygonum baldschuanicum, and Jaaminum nudiflorum. All are very hardy, and would " consort " well if there is room for three climbers upon the screen. They are rampant growers and will quickly cover a large surface. Plants suggested for the "screen" end of the border are (back row) Echinops sphserocephalus, Aconitum autumnale, A. Napellus album, Solidago Shorti, Centaurea ruthenica, Cephalaria alpina, Anchusa italica, (middle row) Catananche bicolor. Flag Irises, Hemerocallis Aureole, tEnothera frutioosa. Anemone jiponica and varieties, Asphodelua ramoaua, (front row) Erysimum rupestre. Phlox selacea, Lychnis viscaria in variety, Anthemis Kelwayi, Potenlilla formosa. Thrifts, Anemone Pulsatilla, and Iris pumila in variety. The remainder of "the border in front of the "building " could be planted with anything you may wish for — Delphiniums, Phlox, Pyrethrums, and the like, for in this caae great hardihood is not so necessary owing to the shelter of the building. Wire Netting for Culinary Peas (If. S.). — Though soaietimes used for supporting Peas wire netting is t-cldom satisfactory ; the size of mesh varies from \h inches to 2^ inches. Good Pea boughs are much to be preferred, aa the tendrils cling more readily to them and the young growths do not get so much damaged by rough winds. Pea trellises can be obtained from most sundries- men in various sizes, but are too expensive for general use, and not so suitable as ordinary Pea stakes. Impoverished Lawn (Lawn). — As your lawn covers an acre we should advise you to harrow the grass. Use a toothed harrow heavily weighted, and take care that the horse which draws it has proper boots, so that its feet do not injure the lawn. The effect of the harrow is to stimulate the growth of the grass. It has the same effect as the rake. To use this, however, would not be practicable on so large a lawn. After raking or harrowing the lawn should be manured. For manure you should use a special lawn manure, which may be had from any seeds- man who makes a speciality of grass seeds. This must be mixed with rich sifted soil in the quantity specified. You would, however, obtain full directions with the manure. Now is au excellent time to renovate a lawn. Where the grass is thin sow seeds after the harrowing and top-dressing. You must sow seeds at the rate of at least one bushel per acre, even more if the lawn is very poor. After sowing rake in the seeds, covering all possible, then roll. Keep sparrows awaj'. Sdw when the lawn is dry, if the grass is wet the seeds cling to it and are I 124 THE GARDEN. [February 25, 1905. wasted. You may improve a poor lawn by making liquid manure and applying it in the evening. Glass House in" the Shade {A New Suh- scriber). — A glass house erected in the position described would be suitable for the growth of Palms, Ferns, and some beautiful foliaged plants such as Begonia Rex varieties, but would be practically useless for the growth of flowering plants. Pruning Pears {New Subscriber). — The tree is evidently intended to be a standard, and the shoots should be cut away from the stem. Seedling Passion Flowers (Pauline). — These are much longer than plants raised from cuttings before they flower. Prune the plant back next month to form wood. The young shoots which break away will very likely flower next summer. Walnut Trees {Walter Curtis). — In country districts where Walnut trees abound it is con- sidered that thrashing the trees with long poles brings them into bearing. Possibly if the roots could be got at and pruned the effect would be the same. If the tree is old enough to bear, a check of any kind would be useful. Flowers for Vases [New Subscriber). — We should plant them in the first instance with H^'acinths, the bulbs 6 inches apart and 3 inches ileep, and between the bulbs we should plant Forget-me-nots. You would then have a carpet of blue as a setting for the Hyacinths. They are in bloom at the same time. For the summer you could have Fuchsia Ballet Girl or Ivy - leaved Geranium Charles Turner. The Ociiro or Gomeo (0. F.). — This is a tall- growing herbaceous plant belonging to the Malvacefe, and known to botanists as Hibiscus esculentus. It is probably of African origin, but is naturalised in all tropical countries, in most of which it is now cultivated for the sake of the edible fruits which in the green state are much used as a vegetable and for thickening soups. The plant being a native of tropical countries would naturally require glass protection in this country. Soil for Cacti (Oxo). — Cactaceous plants should only be repotted when the pots are full of root? or if the soil is sour. If the latter is the case wash all the soil from the roots. April is the best month to repot these plants. The principal ingredient of the compost should be good fibrous loam ; to every five parts add one part sandstone or broken bricks, crushed to the size of a walnut, and from that size downwards to dust. Use pots as small as possible, making them nearly half full of crocks. If you grow Epiphyllums on their own roots (not grafted on Pereskia) use a mixture of peat, charcoal, and sand. For Phyllooactus use a compost of loam, peat, and rotten manure, with plenty of sand intermixed. Small Fruits {W. A. (ra«.s).— The Pvasp- berries may be trailed to espaliers or poles, but the Gooseberries and Currants should be grown as bushes. We have added a few varieties to your list, and all are good. Of Raspberries plant Superlative, 50 ; Norwich Wonder, 20 ; Falstaff, 20 ; The Guinea, 15 (yellow, for dessert) ; and Oranged'Automne, 15 (autumn variety). Boskoop Giant is by far the best and largest Black Currant, plant 12 ; Baldwin, 4 ; Lee's Prolific, 4 ; and Dutinett's Champion, 4. Of White Currants plant White Dutch or Grape, 3 ; and Transparent or Versailles, 3. Of Gooseberries plant Green Gage (colour green), 2 ; Crown Bob, 2 ; Lanca- shire Lad, 2 ; May Duke, 3 ; Warrington, 4 ; Whinham's Industry (all red), 3 ; Champagne, 2 ; Keepsake, 2 ; Golden Lion, 2 ; Golden Drop (all yellow), 2 ; Cheshire Lass, 2 ; and White- smith (both white), 4. Building a Greenhouse {Workini/ Man, Eramley). — 11 you have a few carpenter's tools, such as a saw, chisel, hammer, &c. , and know how to use them, you can build a small greenhouse cheaply, as when everything has to be paid for the labour costs more than the materials. But if you have to pay for labour, then it will be cheaper to buy the house ready for erection as a tenant's fixture. If you decide to do the work yourself, you can buy any scantlings you may require, wall plates, sash bars, cSc, planed ready for fixing, except cutting and fitting together, at the saw mills in Leeds at a very low rate. For a house of the size named a small heating apparatus in the shape of an improved oil lamp would be cheaper than a boiler and pipes. The place is hardly large enough for a boiler. Fruit Trees (Inglenook). — It you prefer fruit to flowers, you may not only cover the walls of the house with fruit trees, but also the Oak fences. But the trees for the fences must be confined to Pears and Apples trained horizon- tally. The fences are too low for stone fruits, though Gooseberries and Currants may be planted and trained on the north side. Plant Pears and Apples on fences about 15 feet apart. On the house you might plant an Apricot or Peach on the south aspect, and Plums on other walls. If you have any lawn at all let it be in the shape of a grass walk through the garden, with a border for flowers on each side, backed up with fruit trees, either bush trees or espaliers. The latter are nice, but expensive. Bush Apples on the Paradise or Pears on the Quince will cost less and bear sooner. There should be room for bush fruits, Raspberries, and Strawberries. If this does not quite meet your wants write us again. Camellia Unsatisfactory [D. M. R. , Bourne- moulh). — Evidently your Camellia is suffering from the want of proper soil. The leaves denote that the soil is deficient in plant food and probably badly drained. This is borne out by your saying that the tree is not thriving. If the tree is too large to lift and transplant, we should advise removing as much of the soil as you can wiLhout damaging the roots. Dig a trench all round it, say, at 4 feet from the stem, then gradually fork away from among the roots as much of the old soil as possible, afterwards filling in with fresh turfy loam with which some bone-meal has been previously mixed. Make it firm. If the drain- age is at fault you must take out as much soil as you can from underneath the tree and put in broken bricks 6 inches deep. This will ensure the soil about the roots being kept sweet. The Camellia needs a good deal of water in spring and summer, and manure water at frequent intervals. MoRELLO Cherries on Wood Fence (J. Ridge). — Oak rent palings are so absorbent that we think there is no probability whatever that fruit trees would suffer in any way because of contact with the fence, sometimes tarred, especially that the aspect is west, which is not a hot one. Still, we are not certain whether it may not be rather too warm for Morello Cherries, as these are rather impatient of heat, and a dry arid atmo- sphere breeds black aphis on them freely. Plums and Pears would be more at home in such a position. If you wire the fence, fix the wires only an inch from the palings. From 4 inches to 5 inches would leave too great a space behind the trees, that might be injurious as creating a current of air. The palings should be close nailed to exclude wind draughts. In tying shoots to wires, the ties, whatever consisting of, should be crossed over the wire to prevent the shoots from touching it. Plumbago Larpent* and Zauschneria [H. B. Harvey). — The first of these, provided you obtain good established plants in pots, should give no trouble whatever if it is not so placed as to become parched and dry in summer. The plant prefers a rather heavy soil and a low position where moisture will follow in due course. If you cannot provide this, the next best thing is the cooling influence of a block of stone. In March or April you may plant it, and if you so desire you may pull to pieces the pot plants and prick out in small tufts over a large area the divisions you obtain. In this way a good-sized patch is easily obtained. The Zauschneria shouM be planted in a light soil with ample drainage, and be given a warm and sunny position. Stones placed about the tufts are frequently much appreciated, the underground stems or stolons piercing underneath and springing up around quickly make a good tuft. This plant does best when divided in spring; old plants divided in autumn often perish. Obtain good establisheil plants in pots and plant in light or stony soil. The plant may be raised from seeds, and upon more than one occasion we have achieved much success with it as a wall plant. Dark Flowers [A New Reader). — The following would prove suitable : Roses Abel Carriere, Prince C. de Rohan, Emperor, Eugene Furst, Louis Van Houtte, Victor Hugo, and Charles Lefebvre ; Sweet Peas Black Knight and Othello ; Carnations Acquisition, Eichendorff. Prince Bismarck, Royal Standard, Uhland, Uriah Pike, and W. T. Barrie ; Early Chrysan- themum Black Hawk ; Clematis Gipsy Queen ; Cactus Dahlias Sambo, General Butler, J. H. Jackson, and Sailor Prince ; Pansies Beauty, Leader, Matthew Dalton, Senator, Thomas Kitchie, and William Fulton ; Violas Max Kolb and Acme ; Pentstemons De Saussure and Paul Cambon ; Phloxes Burns, Ampere, Edmond Andran, Ed. Lockroy, and Le P. Hacquart ; Pyrethrums Hobart Pasha and Gloire de Stella ; and Salpiglossis. For the greenhouse you might have some of the Roses mentioned, some of the darkest Cinerarias, as well as the following : Canna Black Prince, early-flowering Chrysan- themum Black Hawk, some of the Carnations mentioned above, and fancy Pelargoniums Emperor of Russia, Beauty of Oxton, and Miss Lily Cannell. Among zonal Pelargoniums grow Henry Jacoby, Jules Laborde, Turtle's Surprise, Black Vesuvius, and Rudyard Kipling. Perhaps readers can suggest other very dark flowers. Seeds for Garden (Surrey). — We have gone carefully through your gardener's list of seeds he requires for a vegetable garden, exclusive of Potatoes, about 100 rods in area. Only in a few cases can the quantities be regarded as large, and even then a gardener finds it needful to have some extra seeds in hand to enable him to make a second, or even third, sowing should earlier ones fail. Our chief exception is taken to ten pints of Peas as excessive ; six pints should be ample. Sowing a pint in a row of 36 feet is much too thick. We do not write that on any ground of meanness. To sow Peas or, indeed, any seeds too thickly is to defeat the object of the sower, as the plants inevitably suffer from overcrowding later. Our own plan invariably is to make a pint of Peas sow an 80-feet run of row, and that is amply thick. The 5oz. of Broccoli may well be reduced to as many half ounces as giving plenty of plants. The Kale and Savoy may be equally reduced. Four ounces of Onion seed in so many varieties, one of which may be Rocca, for autumn sowing should be enough, as Onion seed is always too thickly sown. The IJoz. of Carrot — a moderate quantity — should be in two varieties ; one of Early Nantes or similar variety, and the ounce of Intermediate for main- crop. Two quarter ounces of Cauliflower should sutEce. There are various things, such as Radish, Lettuce, Turnip, Spinach, Mustard and Cress, Cauliflower, and Celery, of which some two or more sowings have to be made at diverse inter- vals. Naturally the demand for vegetables from a garden is largely dependent on the number of consumers in the household, but a good deal depends also on the economy with which they are used in the kitchen. If there is a surplus it is well utilised, if not otherwise used, by feeding poultry and pigs, as these creatures make manure. Satisfactory crops depend on goml soil, liberally manured, deeply worked, ample summer attention, and thin sowing. FlBRUART 25, 1905.] THE GARDEN. IX. SOCIETIES. ROYAL norvTICTTLTURAL SOCIETY. Floral Committee (F'ebkuart 14). Thuouoh ptes3ure on our space we were unable to insert these notes last week. Present : Mr. George Paul (chairman), Messrs. H. E. May, C. T. Druery, John Green, C. E. Pearson, R. C. Notcutt, G. Reuthe, Charles Blick, J. Jennings, C. J. Salter, Charles Dixon, J. F. McLeod, William Howe, AV. Bain, Charles Jeffries, R. Hooper Pearaon, H. J. Cuthiish, E T. Cook, J. Hudson, W. Cuthbertson, G. Gordon, W. P. Thomson, \V. J. James, Harry Turner, E. H. Jenkins, and Rev. F. Pafce Roberts. Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, contributed a beautiful group of alpines and allied plants, many of them choice, and all beautiful and well grown. Quite a representative lot of dwarf flowering shrubs appeared in the background. Some tine forms of Tulipa kauff raanniana, as, e.g., aurea, coccinea and aurantiaca, were noted. Silver-gilt Flora medal. The Misses Hopkins, Knutsford, staged Christmas Roses in two varieties, also coloured Primroses, Primula elatior cicrulea, hardy Heaths, Hepaticas, and the like. Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, had a nicely disposed rockery arrangement, in which Junipers and other shrubs divided, with alpines in variety, the attention of the visitor. Double Primroses were very beautiful. Cobweb Houaeleeks and Saxifragas were well arranged on a well-constructed rockery. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, staged a group of Aucubas and Acacias in variety, together with Orange trees in frnit and Boronias, the latter beautifully scented. The Fern group from Messrs. J. Hill and Son, Lower Edmonton, contained many beautiful species. Silver Banksian medal. A table of Chinese Primulas came from Mr. W. Palmer, Anduver Nurseries. The chief sorts shown were Island Queen (pink) and Queen Alexandra (blush white). The plants were well grown, compact, and nicely flowered, and were all of the semi-double flowered kinds. S'lver Banksian medal. Messrs. Carter and Sons, Holborn, also filled a table with choice Chinese Primulas in variety, groups being disposed freely at intervals. Rose Queen, Crimson King, Prince of Wales (semi-double pink), and Princess of Wales (semi-double white) were among the best in a very large number. Silver Banksian medal. The Hardy Plant Nursery, Guildford, had a small group of alpines, in which Hepaticas, Lenten Roses, Adonis, and the hardy Cyclamen were noticed. Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton, staged a flne table in which the decorative value of Crotons, choice Ferns, Palms, and stove plants vied with each other. The groups was very nicely arranged, the items well disposed. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, filled a large table with Coleus thyrsoideus, flne blue. Eupa- torium vernale (white), Primula kewensis (yellow), and Cheiranthus kewensis, a set of four valuable winter- flowering plants useful in decoration or for cutting. Messrs. R. Veitch and Son, Exeter, showed hybrid Heath E. Veitchl (lusitanica X arborca), a very remarkable plant, with white bell-shaped fragrant flowers. The large bush was a sheet of bud-^ hardly yet opened. Two forms of Lachenalia came from Mr. Moore, Glasnevin. A showy lot of Hippeastrums came from Mr. K. Drost, Richmond ; these were mostly of light shades, and in a bed of Pteris tremula were very effective. Silver Banksian medal. Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, filled a large table with their strains of Primula sinensis, the white sorts were especially good, large— indeed handsome in flower— and very striking. Polar Star, a white, will make a fine table or conservatory plant. Silver-gilt Flora medal. Violet Countess of Caledon came from the Hon. Mrs. Albert Brassey, Chipping Norton. The flowers are large, double, fragrant, and pale blue in colour. Romulea nivalis (with orange and blue flowers), Cycla- men ibericum, and Iris reticulata in variety came from Miss Willmott, Warley Place. Messrs. Cannell, in addition to Primulas, set up a score of vases of their ever-striking winter Pelargoniums, with a specimen of Eupatorium petiolare. Loropetalum chinense, Dracrena The Queen (a narrow- leaved kind), with Aucubas, came from Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond. The hardy Cyclamen from Messrs. Jackman and Son, Woking, were a very charming lot, some dozens of pots of these pretty spring flowers being shown . Bronze Banksian medal. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, contributed Snowdrops, Hyacinths, fine tufts of Adonis amurensis, handsome gatherings of Iris stylosa, together with Crocus, &c. Hep^tica angulosa alba is a charming plant. The group of forced shrubs from Messrs. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, was quite a beautiful feature. Mr. J. Robson, Altrinchara, showed a basket of Tree Carnation Flamingo, a rich crimson-scarlet. Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, staged hardy plants in pans, of which alpines constituted a large part. There were hardy Cyclamens, Sarracenia purpurea in flower, Adonis amurensis, Iris stylosa in variety (of which I. s. alba is a very beautiful plant), Eranthus cilicicus, Hepaticas, Primroses, &c. Primula obconica, showing great variation, was also in this group. Messrs. Peed and Sons, Norwood, contributed a large varieiy of alpines in pans, chiefly Sednms, Saxifrages, and the like. Messrs. Ambrose and Sons, Cheshunt, had a showy table of cut flowers useful in decoration, Tulips, Carnations, Eiicharia, and other plants. Cyclamen persicum in pots came from Rev. H. Buckston, Sutton Hall, Derby (gardener, Mr. Shambook). The plants were of largo size and splendidly grown, the white-dowered forms especially so. Silver Floral medal. Hardy spring flowers came abundantly and good from Mr. G. Reuihe, Keston, Kent. Iris histrioides major was very fine, also I. reticulata purpurea, and Crocus species were good and plentiful, while Saxifragas, Primroses, Shortia galacifolia, and others contributed to a highly interesting group of the earliest things. Silver Banksian medal. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, filled a double table with their choice strains of Primulas, arranged in large masses, each colour or group represented by several dozen of plants ; an exceptional effect was secured. Reading Blue, The i)uches3(double), Crimson King (a grand colour, very intense), The Duchess (single), and The Czar— the last quite a new shade in deep violet, which we hope to refer to again — were among the more striking in a wonderful lot that mere description fails to do justice to. Silver-gilt Flora medal. New Plants. The following new plants received the award of merit : Carex Vilmorini from Messrs. Cannell. Primula sinensis His Majesty from Sutton and Sons. Crocus chrysanthus var. from Miss Willmott. Rose (H.t.) Prince de Bulgarie from Messrs. Paul, Cheshunt. THE nORTICXTLTURAL CLUB. ANNUAL Meeting and Dinner. The annual dinner of this club was held at the Hotel Windsor on the 14th inst., under the presidency of Sir John D. T. Llewelyn, Bart., about eighty members and guests, including many ludies, being present. Before the dinner the annual meeting of the club members was held, and it is very pleasant to note that this club, which practically represents the social side of the Royal Horti- cultural Society, deservedly shares in the success of the latter, both financially and numerically, Mr. Harry J. Veitch as treasurer being able to present a highly satis- factory report in both respects. The record of the club for the year, as presented by its secretary, Mr. E. T. Cook, also showed that a number of highly interesting papers have been read, and are contributed by many of the highest horticultural authorities and experts, the club thus forming an intellectual centre as well as merely a social one. The dinner was equally satisfactory in every way. The tables, thanks to the great kindness of Messrs. Veitch and Sons, were beautifully decorated with spring fiowers, Palms, (fee, to gratify the eye, while in the intervals of the toasts, which were distinguished by their terseness and brevity, the well-known Georgian Singers, under the direction of Mr. Harry J. Stubbs of St. Paul's Cathedral, also gratified the ear by their skilful rendering of a choice and varied programme. Mr. Charles T. Druery, as usual, contributed one of his original humorous recita- tions, "Tom Piper," whicli was greatly appreciated. After the usual loyal toasts, the toast of "The Royal Horticultural Society " was eloquently proposed by Mr. George Paul and responded to by Mr. W, A. ]Jiliiey as one of the new members of the council. Sir John D. Llewelyn, Bart., proposed the toast of "The Club" in sympathetic terms, to which Mr. Harry J. Veitch in his usual genial style responded. The toast of " The Secretary " was warmly responded to. That of "The Visitors" was pro- posed by Mr. G. Monro, and Mr. H. B. May proposed as a supplementary toast " The Health of Mr. Veitch." In the course of the speeches generally the intimate and pleasant relations of the club to the Royal Horticultural Society were repeatedly alluded to, and suggestions were also appropriately made as regards the wider extension of this comparative. y local entente cordiale to our horticultural friends abroad, the art and craft of horticulture consti- tuting a kindly freemasonry which knows no territorial limits. The members of the club were pleased to hear that the Rev. H. H. Domhrain, its secretary from the inception, is still enjoying good health, and a congratulatory telegram conveying their good wishes was d-i'^patched to him. CROYDON HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. On a recent Tuesday the Croydon and District Horticul- tural Mutual Improvement Society's fortnightly meeting took place, the lecturer for the evening being Mr. C. II. Curtis, who came as a delegate from the British Gardeners' Association to expound the aims and objects of this asso- ciation, which was started some twelve months ago. The views, laid out so clear y by the lecturer, received encouraging support from those present, and it was agreed that at the next meeting a decision should be arrived at whether a local branch of the association, apart from the Croydon and District Horticultural Mutual Improvement Society, should be founded in Croydon SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. The opening meeting for the year was held in the rooms of the National Bible Society of Scotland, 5, St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on the evening of the 7tb inst. There was a large attendance, presided over by Mi*. J. W. MHaLtip, superintendent of the city parks, the president of the associati in. Mr. M'Hattie gave an extremely in- teresting address, in the course of which he remarked that the association had proved a great public benefactor, especially by the work it had dune in bringing various flowers, sucli as the Chrysanlhemum, prominently before the putilic. He also brought before the members a matter which deserves the greatest consideration from the agso* niation. This is the desirability of paying more attention than hitherto to the benelit fund of the association. As be pointed out, ways and means should be found for making provision for the widnwd and orphans of their brother gardeners. Amrmg other things which might be con- sidered was that of having abaziar for ihe purpose. The address was very favourably received. Mr. Cliailes Comfort, Broom field, Davidson's Mains, afterwards gave a pleasant accnunt of a trip to Connemara and elsewhere in Ireland, illustrated with a number of excellent ]ime-Iigbt views of places visited. Am-mg other gardens visited was that of the Duke of Manchester, at Kylemore, Galway, and the fine Botanic Gardens at Glasnevin, and of Trinity College, Dublin. The wholfi lecture was most interesting, and Mr. Comfort was heartily thanked for so clearly laying before the members his im pressions of what he had seen. CARDIFF GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. At a meeting held at the Sandringham Hotel on Tuesday, the 7th inst., Mr. Tom Clarke presiding, Mr. Jones, representative of the Newport Gardeners Association, delivered a splendid lecture, entitled, " Annu-tls, and How to Grow Them."' Nearly all the best subjects were mentioned which were deemed most suitable for decora tive and show purposes. The discussion was one full ot interesting details. The best thanks of the association were accorded Mr. Jones for his able lecture. J. J. DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. The usual monthly meeting of the above association was held in the Technical Inetilute, Dundee, on the eveningof the 7th inst. There was a good attendance, presided over by Mr. Williaru Gr-ant, Fernhall Gardens. The paper for the evening was " Sweet Peas for Exhibition," but, unfortunately, however, Mr. William Simpson, Wemyss Castle Gardens, the author, was unavoidably absent. The paper was, however, admirably read on his behalf by Mr. Tiddell of the same gardens, ilr. Simpson treated the cultivation of Sweet Peas for exhibition in a thoroughly clear and practical manner, giving full instruc- tions regarding the best methods of cultivation to adopt, and also detailing what he considered the best varieties for the purpose. At the close the tone of the discussion showed universal appreciation of the paper, for which Mr. Simpson was heartily thanked. GARDENERS' ROYAL BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION- The annual social evening of the Liverpool auxiliary was held on Saturday week under most favourable auapices, and was considered to be the best yet held. The chaiiin.\n was Dr. J. G. W. McFall. The crowded audience testified to their appreciation of the programme by rounds (jf applause. As usual the room was decorated with plants and cut flowers through the kindness of Messrs. ^V'ebb and Sous, Messrs. R. P. Ker and Sons, Mr. C. A. Young, &c. The chairman, in his address, urged the claims of the institu- tion upon all gardeners, aird tho^e that loved gardening, so that theirdoclining days, if necessary, might be assisted by the practical sympathy of the institution. A number of resolutions were passed with applause, and included thanks to the chairman, the donors oi plirits and flowers, the secretary and treasur-er (Messrs. R, G. Waterman and A. J. Crippin), and the artistes. Especially gratifying was the announcement of a new subscriber of two guineas and donations of fourteen guineas. SCOTTISH PANSY AND VIOLA ASSOCIATION. The general meeting of this society was held in Glasgow on the Sth inst., Mr. John Stewart, president., in the chair. The report showed that twenty new Pansies, six new Violas, one new bedding Lobtlia, and one new early-flowering Chrysanthemum had been certificated during last season. Office bearers and judges for 19U5 wi;re appointed, Mr. R.S. Milne, presideBt,and Mr. John Smellie, P^^nsy Gardens, Busby, secretary. After the business of the society was over 3Ir. Alex. Sweet of Ca.thcart delivered a characteristic lecture on "Hardy Flowers," dealing specially with Liliums and the rarer varieties of lierbaceous plairts, all of which he had grown successfully in his own garden. He also expressed decided views on the varieties most suitable for Scotch gardens, and how they should be displayed to advantage. Messrs. Stewart, Fife, Campbell, Robertson, and others expressed their appreciatian of the paper, Mr. Sweet being accorded a hearty vote of thanks. DUNLOP HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual meeting of the above society was held in the Public Hall, Dunlop, on the evening of the Sth inst. The annual report of the secretary and treasurer submitted to the meeting was generally of a satisfactory character, there being a small balance to the credi,t of the society. The report was adopted, and the following office-bearers appointed : President, Mr. W. Clement, Wellbank ; vice- president, Mr. T. Mackie, Hapland Mills ; secretary and treasurer, Mr. J. Thomson, Newhouse. A committee was also appointed, and it was agreed to introduce some new features into the show to be held on September 9. PROFESSIONAL GARDENERS' FRIENDLY BENEFIT SOCIETY. The annual dinner of this society was held in Lfeds on Wednesday, the Sth inst. Between forty and fifty were present, and a very enjoyable evening was passed. The president, Mr. G. Stubbs, was in the chair, and was supported by Mr. Haw, the vice-president, and the follow- ing honorary members : Mr. Batchelor of Harrogate ; Mr. THE GAEDEN. [FErRUAHY 25, 19r5. W. Green of Garforth ; Air. Evans represented Messrs. Clibians ; Mr. Iljjpe, Mes&rd biukaun, Brown, and Tait ; and ilr. Hulden, Messrs. William Cut bush and Sons. Letters regretting Iheir inability to attend were received from Lord Allerton, Rowland Barran, E^q., M. P., James O.^ley, Esq,, J.P., and others. After the Ubual loyal toasts the secretary presented the twenty-eighth annual report and balance-sheet. Mr. Batchelor, in proposing "Success to the Profes- sional Gardeners' Friendly Benefit Society," said he was pleased to be once more present among them and at hearing such a very satisfactory report. It appeared to him that the society was on a very good basip and promised well for the future. Mr, Joseph Smith and Mr. Kenry Wiight (trustees) responded. filr. Green, responding on behalf of the trade, congratu- lated the members on the continued success of the society, but he would like to see a much longer list of honorary members, and felt sure there were many interested in horticulture who, if they knew of the objects and aims of the society, would be pleased to subscribe. He and Mr. Batchelor were made honorary members thirty-five years ago, and it was always a great pleasure to come among the members and to do what they could to assist them in their good work. The treasurer proposed "The Health of the Honorary Members," acknowledging ihe valuable assistance they had rendered to the suciety from its commencement. Messrs. Evans, Hope, and Holden briefly responded, the former expressing his surprise that there were not many more members. He could only attribute it to the fact that the society was nut sufficiently well known, and suggested that the committee should advertise in some funn ur other. The secretary, in reply to Mr. Evans's remarks, said that hitherto no special efforts had been made to make the society known, but this year they were distributing large quantities of copies of rules with the report and balance- faheet. They would also be pleased to supply small quanti- ties to the trade secretaiies of societies of gardeners and others who were willing to distribute them. ilr. IL Carter, secretary of the Leeds Paxton Society, after proposing "The Press," called attention to the circulars which had been distributed in the room regarding the newly-formed British Gardeners' Association, and hoped that all who could would attend a meeting, to he held in Leeds on Saturday night, for the purpose of con- sidering the advisability of forming a branch for York- shire. The remainder of the evening was pleasantly passed by songs, &c., rendered by members and friends. G. CAKVEB. BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. In addition to those previously reported meetings have been held at the following places : At Waltham Cross, on the 7th inst., Mr. J. Weathers, horticultural instructor for Middlesex, in the chair, ilr. W', Watson, honorary secretary of the association, being the principal speaker. It was unanimously resolved to form a local branch of the asso- ciation, and gardeners resident in the district who are interested in the movement are requested to communicate with Mr. W. Isbell, 5, St. Mark's Road, Bush Hill Park, Enfield, who has agreed to undertake the duties of honorary secretary (pro tern.). At Croydon, also on the 7th inst., there was a well-attended meeting of members of the Croydon and District Horticultural Mutual Improvement Society and others to hear Mr. C. H. Curtis, who is a member of the committee of selection of the association. The objects and programme of the association, so clearly expounded by Mr. Curtis, met with the approval of the meeting, and it was agreed to further consider the forma- tion of a local branch of the association at the next meeting of the society. At Norwich, on the 8th inst., the February meeting of the Edst Anglian Horticultural Club was addressed by ilr. George Gordon, V.M.H., as a delegate from the association. At Leed^, on the 11th inst., a large gathering of the gardeners of the district assembled at a meeting held under the auspices of the Leeds Paxton Society to hear ilr. George Gordon, V.il.H., speak upon the British Gardeners' Association. As a result of the meeting the following resolution was carried unanimously, "That a branch of the British Gardeners' Association be formed in Yorkshire, with Leeds as a centre, and that this meeting pledges itself to give every possible support to the movement." A committee was elected to actively carry on the work. ilr. George Carver, 75, Northbrook Street, Chapel Allerton, Leeds, was elected honorary senetary. As secretary of the Professional Gardeners' Friendly Benefit Society ilr. Carveris well known and respected throughout the county, and all Yorksliire gardeners interested in tlie movement are invited to communicate with him. • NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM! iSOCIETY. On Monday evening, the 13th inst., a meeting of the executive committee of the above society was held at Can's Restaurant, Strand, when ilr. Thomas Be van presided, ilr. Richard Dean, the secretary, was again in his accustomed place, to the evident satisfaction of the members, and after reading the minutes of the previous meeting, submitting a rough financial statement and prelimiiiary ci>rrespondence, he drew attention to the importance of the meeting, which was the first one held after the annual meeting of the society. The agenda was a lengthy one, the first item of impirtance being the election of members to fill vicmcies on the floral com- mittee occasioned by resignation and by rule requiring one-thiri of that bidy to retire annually. The following gentlemen were elected : Messrs. Hiircs, Kenyon, J. Lyne, G. Prickett, G tver, C. H. Curtis, anu Ellis. The report of the market thow committee was then presented, from which it appeared that the committee recommended a repetition of the show of market varieties in 190.5 on the same lines as that of 1904 ; that it be held on December 13 next ; that the competitive classes be limited to Chrysanthemums ; and that application be made for use of the French Flower Market at Covent Garden for the purpose t>f the show. Upon the motion of Mr. D. Ingamells the report was adopted. 'The election of thesthedule revision committee was then proceeded with, the result being that Messrs. Blick, W. Howe, Prickett, Ingamells, Kenyon, Simpson, Odver, J. Green, and Simmonds were appointed. The finance committee remains the same as last year. The schedules of prizes fur the October, November, and December shows in the present year were settled, and the judges appointed. It was also resolved that ilr. T. Bevan, Mr. Witty, and Mr. Harman Payne be the depuLation appointed to represent the Naiional Chrysanthemum Society at the International Horticultural Show in Pans in ilay next, with power to add to their number. Several suggestions were made as to the annual outing, and the election of new members brought the meeting to a close. UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT AND PROVIDENT SOCIETY. The monthly committee meeting of this society was held at the Caledonian Hotel, Adelphi Terrace, Strand, on ilonday evening last, Mr. Thomas Winter in the chair. Thirty-five new members were elected, this being the largest number ever elected at one time, this result in great measure being due lo an article which appeared in a horticultural journal. The sick pay duiing the past month was heavy, the amount paid out being £51 lis. Several members were allowed to transfer from the lower to the higher scale. The annual general meeting will be held on ilonday, ilarch 13 next, particulars of which will be duly announced in the Press. NOTES FROM MARKETS. THE COVENT GARDEN MAEKET. THERE are now large supplies of cut bloom on the market ; trade is very uncertain, and it is difficult to give approximate prices. These vary from day to day. Roses are now more plentiful. The old favourite General Jacqueminot is the most prominent red ; there are also some good blooms of Liberty. Caroline Testout is very fine. La France, Mme. Abel Chateaay, Mme. Hoste, Jules Grolez, Papa Gon- tier, Safrano, and Niphetos are all fairly plentiful now. Mar(ichal Niel is also seen, and Catherine Mermet, but most of these are pale in colour. Diffodils are very plentiful. Of bicolors, Hors- fieldi and princeps are prominent ; Emperor, Henry Irving, Sir Walkin, Golden Spur, and the white mosehatus albus are the principal sorts grown. Orchids in great variety are now seen ; Violets are more plentiful ; Snowdrops, Wall- flowers, Myosotis, Primroses, and other spring flowers are now coming in. Liliuma, Lily of the Valley, Eucharis, and other white flowers are plentiful. Higher prices are asked for Gardenias. Pot plants are well supplied, especially Azaleas, Cinerarias, Ericas, Genistas, Cyclamen, and Begonias. Daffodils in pots are also prominent. There are also Urge supplies of Ferns, Palms, and other foliage plants. Wholesale Price List. Flowers. ft, d ». rf. Anemones per dozen bunches 2 U lo 4 (1 Azalea iiidica alba t, ,, 3 n 11 S (1 ,, mollis .. 9 » It 12 n Bouvardia fi n !, 8 b Calla rethiopica .. „ blooms 2 0 ,, 4 n Camellias 2 11 „ 3 n Catlleyas It ti 10 •1 „ 12 (1 Carnations bunches 18 n „ ,10 n ,, special American varieties „ blooms 4 n ,, 7 n Cyclamen ,, bunches ft 0 „ 8 n Cypripeiliuminsiffne& others „ blooms 2 « ,. 3 (1 Dendrohium nobile '> « ,, 3 li Daf!odil3, yellow trumpet „ bunches 3 0 ,, « 0 ,, double It II 4 0 „ « 0 ,, princeps ti It 4 <) ., (1 (1 Eucharis ainazonica , „ blooms tt " .1 3 (1 Euphorbia jicnuini:efl ira .. per bunch 2 11 ,. 3 (1 iTeesia refracta alba . per dozen bunches ■.i i> ., 4 (i Gardenias „ bl.oms 4 11 ., li n Ilyuciiiths, Roman „ bunches (i U 1, 8 0 Lilac, English forced . per bunch 3 0 „ 4 0 „ French .. . •■ ,i 8 6 ,t 4 0 Flowers [couthnu d). g j Lilium auratum .. ., per bunch 2 6 ,, longitlorum . . . . „ 4 0 ,, lancifolium album .. ,, 2 0 ., ,, rubrura.. ,, 2 0 Lily of the Valley . . per dozen bunches 6 0 Lycasle Skinneri ., ,, bluums 5 U ilarguerites, white .. ,, bunches 3 0 ,, yedow .. ,, ,,2 6 Myos.-tis ,, ,, 4 0 Narcissus, Paper-white per dozen bunches 2 0 „ Soleil dOr „ „ 2 6 ,, Glorinsa .. ,, „ 2 0 Odontoglossum crispum ,, bluams 2 6 Primula sinensis, dbl. white ,, bunches 5 0 i^elargoniura (show), white ,, ,,6 0 „ (zonal), dbl. sclt. „ „ 6 0 M t> salmon ,, ,,6 0 Ranunculus .. .. ,, ,,9 0 Rosea (English) .. ,, bluoms 3 0 ,, (French) .... ,, ,,10 Snowdrups ., ., ,, bunches 1 0 Tuberuses .... ,, ,,0 0 ,, on stems ,. .. per bunch 0 9 Tulips per dozen bunches 0 0 Violets, blue .. .. ,, ,, 2 0 ,, Parma per bunch '6 G Wallflowers .. ., per dozen bunches 2 o Fruit. Apples, English dessert .. per sieve 4 0 ti I. culinary .. mm 3 0 ,, American . . . . ptr barrel 12 0 ,, Newtown Pippins .. ptr case 10 0 Bananas, Jamaica ,. .. per bunch 5 0 ,, Canary Inlands .. ,, ,, 8 0 Cob Nuts per dozen lb. 5 0 Grapes, Alicante .. ., per dozen lb. 12 0 „ Grus Colmar .. .. „ „ IS 0 Lemons per case 8 0 Oranges, Valencias .. .. ,, 6 0 Blood „ 8 0 „ Jaffas „ 10 0 „ Jamaicas ., .. ,,5 0 ,, Sevdle .. .. „ 6 6 Pears „ 10 0 Pines, St. Michael's each 2 6 GARDENINO APPOINTMENTS. Mr. G. Preston, for the past three years general fore- man to Mrs. Brightwen, The Grove Gardens, Stanmore, Middlesex, has been appointed head gardener to Sir William Crump, Glenthorne, Harrow Weald, Middlesex, and enters on his duties to-day. Mr. Thomas McMinn, foreman in the gardens at Bella- drum, Beauly, N.B., and previously foreman for over three years in the gardens at Oakmere Hall, Unrtford, Cheshire, has been appointed head gardener to Captain Uawkes, Achnayairn, Inverness-shire, N.B., and entered on his duties on the 9th ult. Mr. James Gibson and Welbeok Abbet.— A very wide circle of gardeners will learn with preat satisfaction that so able and estimable a member of the profession as Mr. James Gibson, formerly of Great Marlovv, has been appointed by the Duke and Duchess of Portland as their head gardener at Welbeck Abbey. The duties will be entered upon shortly. Mr. Gibson is known not only aa one of our finest vegetable growers and exhibitors, but also aa a first-rate all-round gardener. He has for some time been a member of the fruit and vegetable committee of the Ruyal Horticultural Suciety, and was also on the executive of the Gardeners' Dinner of 1903. He has the hearty congratulations of a wide circle of friends. Mr. J Brown, late of Market Rasen, has been appointed head gardener to Sir George Mackenzie, Terapsford Hale, Bedford, and enters on his duties at once. ». d. to 3 0 ,1 6 0 ., 2 6 1, 2 6 „ 15 0 ,. 6 0 „ 4 0 ,. 3 B ,1 6 n „ 3 0 „ 3 6 „ 3 0 „ 3 0 ,. 6 0 „ 8 0 „ 9 0 „ 8 n ., 12 0 „ 8 u ., 2 u ,. 2 0 ., 0 8 ., 1 0 .. 9 0 .. 3 0 ,. B 0 .1 3 0 ,. 12 0 It fi u „ 18 » „ 18 0 „ 10 0 .1 1* 0 ,1 6 0 .. 24 () 1, 30 n .1 l-* 0 It 10 0 ,. 9 0 It 12 u ., 7 0 It 12 0 „ 12 0 ., 6 0 *»* The Yearly Subscription to THE GARDEN is: Inland, 6s. (id. ; Foreign, 8s. 9d. INDEX. Answers to correspondents Coffee Tree, Kentucky, the Correspondence Cyclamen, a hardy (Illustrated) Cypripediums, three striking Editor's table Klower garden, the Forthcoming events Kruit garden, the Gardening for beginners Gardening of the week Kitchen garden, the Love-in-a-Mist (illustrated) Melon culture at Farnham Notes of the week Orchards, new Orchids Parasite, an interesting (illustrated) ... Park, London, a new (illustrated) Plants, hardy, notes on Potato Sutton's Discovery (illustrated) Royal Horticultural Society Schizanthns wiaeto leiisis Shtub, a graceful-berried (illustrated) ,. Trees and shrnha Vinery and forcing house combined, a Wlreworms (illustrated) Paoe 122 118 116 119 121 lis 116 112 117 120 121 122 117 116 112 111 121 IIB 113 111) 122 122 116 IH lis 117 ^^ GARDEN No. 1737.— Vol. LXVII. March 4, 1905. THE LAWN. OF all the pleasant accessories to a I beautiful garden, not one can I well surpass, in the genuine interest and pleasure it affords, that of a well - kept lawn, whether it may be that of many acres sur- rounding palatial homes, where it furnishes a glorious setting for noble and stately trees and shrubs, or to the more modest ones attached to humbler residences. Not only is a well-kept lawn beautiful in itself, but it also ministers in no small degree to the health and happiness of its owners by the opportunities it offers for the enjoyment of outdoor games and recreations. On the other hand, we know of nothing more depres- sing to look upon than a neglected lawn. Possibly outdoor games, such as tennis and croquet, were partaken of and enjoyed more last year than for many years past, in consequence of the long-continued warm and beautiful weather, and we can well imagine how the thoughts of many, with lengthening days, will be turning longingly to the time when this enjoyment can be resumed. This pleasant anticipation, we are afraid, is often marred by the fact that the lawn is out of order. Things must be put straight at once. Should there be any serious rises and depres- sions, the extent of these troubles may soon be ascertained by the use of the spirit level, and if it is found impossible to satis- factorily patch up the ground there is no alternative than taking ofi the turf, dig the land up, have it properly levelled by a competent hand, and the turf relaid, or, if the turf happens to be poor and weedy, a far more satisfactory plan would be to have it resown with the best lawn grass ^^eeds. This, of course, is expensive, and, besides, entails a considerable delay in the time when the lawn would again be available for use. Those with a trained eye for levels (if one may use the term) can tell sufficiently near for all practical purposes where any lumps and depressions occur. When found the turf should be removed and the soil taken away or added to, as the case may be, until those parts are brought to the same level as the other portions of the lawn, and the turf carefully relaid, the same care having been taken in its removal. Maybe the lawn is overrun more or less with coarse grass and rough weeds, such as Plantains, Daisies, Dandelions, &c. Now is the time, in the absence of frost, to uproot these robbers, and the best way to do so is to use the "gardener's spud," which is a miniature spade with a long handle. The blade is small and narrow, and should always have a good edge to it. The way to use it in the case of these troublesome weeds is to push it obliquely through the roots of the weeds, severing them completely 2 inches or .3 inches under the surface, when they can easily be pulled up. Every weed should be cleared away. Never mind if the lawn looks half bare when the work is finished. Some of the coarser and more persistent of the weeds may reappear in the course of a year or two years' time. If so, the same operation is resorted to again, and their destruction will be final after a year or two. Moss is very troublesome on many lawns, more especially on those in damp positions or on land which happens to be very poor. The remedy in the first case is to effectively drain the ground, and in the second to improve the fertility of the soil. Presuming that the weeds have been extracted, the next process to take in hand will be to rake the lawn all over with an iron rake. Stirring the surface of the grass by working the rake vigorously backward and forward until the whole of the lawn has been so treated, rooting up all the moss there may happen to be in the operation, which must be carried out on a dry day. Should the lawn be too large to be thus treated with a rake, a harrow must be substi- tuted. Lawns that have been badly infested with weeds and have been treated as advised will have the appearance more or less of an arable field. This does not matter; the grass after treatment will come round with marvel- lous rapidity later on. The next step should be to have a heap of soil prepared as follows fur dressing the grass with : To half a cartload of ordinary garden soil add the same quantity of the ! best well-rotted cow or horse manure that can be had, and the same of gritty road scrapings. Add to this one bag of the best- prepared artificial lawn manure (which can be obtained from any of our high-class seed merchants). Mix the whole well together and apply to the lawn as soon as possible at the rate of one good barrow- load to the perch or pole, raking it well in with a wooden rake and choosing a dry day for the purpose. The land may now be left alone until the grass begins to grow (about the first week in March). It should then be again raked over, using a wooden rake, and at the same time well rolled with a moderately heavy roller. It will be observed soon after this operation, especially if we have fairly warm showery weather, that the roots of the grasses have imperceptibly absorbed the dressing of soil. The grass should again be left untoucljed until the last week in March, when it should have another dressing of the same compost ; this time less than half the quantity applied before will suffice, and this should be passed through a 1-inch sieve so as to take away any coarse lumps or stones. Before applying this dressing, the gardener carrying out the work must find out the lumps or elevations which have been reduced, breaking the surface into small particles with a fork to the depth of 2 inches, otherwise the seeds to be now sown would have a difficulty in starting into growth. After this application of the second dressing of soil the best lawn grass seeds must be sown ; these can be bought already prepared. Half a pint of seed to the square pole of land, sowing it thicker, of course, on the bare patches, but all the same sowing some seeds all over the lawn as soon as the soil is applied, and before it is raked in. Choose a calm dry day for carrying out the work. The seed as soon as sown should be well raked into the soil, using a wooden rake for preference, and afterwards well rolled in two or three times over, so as to press and fasten the seeds well to the soil, in which at this time of the year they will soon germinate and make a quick growth, clothing the lawn with a deep green and beautiful verdure. The after treatment will now consist of rolling it at least once a week ; thi^ will result in the roots of the young grasses getting a better hold of the soil, and thus enable them to establish a good growth in the least possible time. The grass should not be cut the first time until it is about 4 inches or 5 inches long, and then with a sharp scythe only. If cut with the machine the first time there is danger of the knives "lugging" and pulling up the young grass by the roots. After- wards it may be cut with the lawn mower in 126 THE GARDEN. [Maech 4, 1905- the usual way. If close attention after this is given to rolling and mowing (and watering should the weather prove very dry) the lawn may be played on towards the middle of May, but if playing can be deferred a, little longer it will all be in favour of clothing the ground with a thicker and better carpet of grass. ENGLISH V. AMERICAN APPLES. Bt an accident I have not yet seen Mr. G. Bunyard'a remarks on Colonial fruits to which Mr. T. Arnold refers on page 77. But if Mr. Bunyard has ventured to give in print the preference to American dessert Apples — or to some varieties — over our best English fruit, I am glad that he has openly given the weight of his name to a truth which has for a long time needed frank admission. Patriotism is one thing, and to live in a fool's paradise is another. We Englishmen are fatally fond of assuming that all our home products are, by some decree of Provi- dence, better than those of the foreigner, instead of setting ourselves to make them better. What ia really the position of the Euglish market as regards dessert Apples ? We have one supremely good Apple, Cox's Orange Pippin, which at its best is as good as, or possibly better than, the finest American variety, namely, Newtown Pippin, though these two are so different as to make comparison somewhat futile. But Cox's Orange, though it 'can be kept firm to the touch and bright to the eye until well on in spring, loses its sprightliness of flavour and orispness of texture after Christmas, and, to my mind, is seldom at its best after the end of November. From January onwards we must fall back upon hopelessly second-rate English Apples, notwith- standing what the more curious fanciers ma}' assert about this or that variety ; second rate, that is, at all events, to that splendid fruit the Newtown Pippin, which, though sufficiently dear, is obtainable in perfect condition almost until early summer fruit comes in. It is mere folly to deny the qualities of this Apple — heavy, yet of crisp, digestible texture, sugary and retentive of its juice, and high flavoured, though its flavour is totally different from that of Cox's Orange. I do not make this admission without regret, for I have myself expended much care and some capital in laying down land to orchard. Sometimes I fear we are contending against hope- less odds in the matter of climate. So long as spring frosts and cold, wet summers make our crops nil for intermittent years or series of years it is difficult to be sanguine. Moreover— what is more to the point of the present discussion — the American summer of certain and continued heat gives to Apples a peculiarly finished quality which we in England can rarely or never com- mand. I have often observed, though, curiously enough, I have never seen the fact noticed in print, that American Apples, though squeezed in their barrels out of all roundness into squares and polygons with innumerable facets, yet never decay from these obvious bruises. English Apples would decay at once if similarly treated. The reason, no doubt, is that the American fruit is so thoroughly matured by the sun in its saccharine juices as to be rendered almost aseptic. Mr. Arnold decries foreign Apples as mealy and tough. Now these are precisely the defects which I should attribute to too many of our own Apples. That mainstay of our midseason market, Blenheim Orange, has always seemed to me wholly over- rated because of its invariable mealiness within a few weeks of gathering. Even Cox's Orange is not really crisp for more than eight or nine weeks. Ribston Pippin is very tough and indi- gestible. After a certain age we value our teeth — they are so expensive — and in the late winter at^d early spring I never trust mine to an English dessert Apple. Broadly speaking, there is a firmness yet crispness of texture, with easy digestibility, in such fruits as Newtown Pippin and King of Tompkin's County, which we may at present look for in vain in English Apples. It is well to admit facts, but is there any remedy ? We cannot create sunlight, but we can let our choicest Apples have the full benefit of what summer we get by thinning; out both boughs and fruit. Such an Apple as Cox's Orange will always sell, and the public should be induced to appreciate its full excellence during the two months after gathering. I am an entire unbeliever in cold storage, as seriously impairing flavour and texture, but — and this is my chief point — we should set to work to breed finer late dessert Apples, aiming at combining in the same fruit the Ribston flavour, our peculiar English posses- sion, with the crisp flesh of the Newtown Pippin and the keeping quality of the latest winter varieties. Scarcely anythttig has yet been done in the way of intelligent aad industrious breeding of Apples on a considerable scale, and nearly all our standard kinds are chance seedlings or have come to us nobody knows how. Mr. Charles Rosa, Messrs. Veiteh, and one or two others have touched — but only just touched — on the under- taking. Meanwhile, and until the seedlings have fruited and overspread the land, let us make the most of our supremacy in kitchen Apples while we have it. It is true that even here the oversea competition is threatening. A remarkably fine sample of that unrivalled cooking Apple, Welling- ton, comes from Tasmania, but as yet it is too dear for ordinary folks. If some clever raiser can put the fruit of Wellington on to a tree that will flourish in every English orchard he will have deserved well of his country. G. H. Engleheakt. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. MARCH. NOTES OF THE WEEK. A First Vnze of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best Essays on the subject of SUMMER GARDENING. The essay must not exceed 1,000 words in length ; it must describe the best way (in the writers opinion) of keeping the Flower Garden beautiful during June, July, August, and September. The various plants recom- mended must be correctly described with regard to height, colour of flowers or foliage, and time and duration of flowering. Jlore points will be given to the essayist who is able to show how the garden may be made attractive throughout the summer by one planting only, than to those who advocate successional plantings. The prizes will be mainly awarded for the information given. Style of writing will not be so much con- sidered. The object is to have plain practical gardening experience. The first prize essay will be published. FOKTHCOMING EVENTS. March 6.— Mansfield Horticultural Society's Meeting. March 7. — Sevenoaks Gardeners' Society's Meeting. March 8. — Meeting of the Sheffield Chrysan- themum Society. Royal Hopticultupal Society's Examinations, 1905.— The Royal Horti- cultural Society will hold an examination in cottage and allotment gardening on Wednesday, April .5 next. This examination is intended for, and will be confined to, elementary and technical school teachers. It has been undertaken in view of the increasing demand, especially in country districts, that the school teachers shall be com- petent to teach the elements of cottage and allotment gardening, and of the absence of any test whatever of such capacity. The general conduct of the examination will be on the same now well-known lines as that of the more general examination, save in obvious points to which they would not apply. Intending candidates are requested to send in their names early in March. A silver-gilt Flora medal will be awarded to the candidate gaining the highest number of marks, and each candidate will receive a certificate of the class in which he has passed. The society's annual examination in the principles and practice of horticulture will be held on Wednesday, April 1^ next. A copy of the syllabus, covering both examinations, will be sent to any person on receipt of a stamped and directed envelope. Questions set at the Royal Horticultural Society's examinations, 1893-1904, ma}' also be obtained at the society's offices, Vincent Square, West- minster, price Is. 6d. National Dahlia Society —I beg to enclose a copy of the schedule which is now being issued to our members. You will notice in the report of the committee that although the prize money was very much increased last year, yet we have been able again to further increase it by nearly 20 per cent. We have also added a few more classes. We now want the exhibitors to come forward, and as there has been a recent change in the secretaryship, I shall be obliged if you will kindly state in your paper that I shall be pleased to forward a schedule to anyone desiring the same. — H. L. Brocsson, Hon. Secretary, Boyton, Foot's Cray, Kent. Early flowers in Doneg-al. — It may interest you to know how early some flowers are in this northerly situation and after an exceptionally stormy winter. I had out on Valentine's Day : Iris reticulata, Seilla sibirica, Chionodoxa, double Daffodils, Snowdrops, Leu- cojum vernum, Violets (blue and white). Prim- roses (blue, common, double white, crimson, and yellow), polyanthus. Daphne Mezereum, and Laurustinus. Most of these were onlv planted late in October. — Thomas Cradqok, Old Eden, Roshey, County Donegal. Potato Lapstone Kidney.— " F. G. F." writes: "In your footnote in The Garoen of the ISth ult., page 102, you state that Mr. Miles would like to meet with Lapstone Kidney, of which I have a few. If he will exchange with mo for some other sort I should be pleased to do so." We hope Mr. Miles will see this note and write us. We have kept "F. G. F.'s" address. Campanula hytarida Ferg-usoni. "A very beautiful hybrid Campanula, its parentage somewhat obscure, said to be crossed with C. pyramidalis . . . ."is the opening de- scription of this new plant as given in a recently published catalogue, but, considering that it has been shown and fully described in most of the leading journals and also fissured and described in Thk Garden, October '22, 1904, there is no obscurity as to its origin. The exact parentage is C. pyramidalis alba and C. carpatica, and I learn from the raiser that he had the special view in mind when making the crosa of producing a bushy perennial form of C. pyramidalis. When grown under glass the flowers are a soft light blue ; in the open ground they assume a deeper tint. Being perfectly hardy and a perennial, it is also invaluable for outdoor culture. — Campana. March 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 127 The White Algerian Iris (I. StylOSa alba). — I tind the white winter Iris very useful when grown in pots and wintered in a cool greenhouse. With me it begins bloom- ing at the end of January, and continues to ^hrow up its delicate blossoms until April. I find, however, that in order to get an abundance of bloom generous treatment is necessary. Plenty of good food in some shape or other must be given all through the growing time, especially in late summer and early autumn. Last season my pot plants did not bloom at all well ; they had got into a pot-bound condition, so that there was little or no nourishment left in the soil. It did not occur to me tp feed them regularly, so that, although they looked healthy enough at the close of the autumn, they evidently had not sufficient substance to form buds. Profiting by experience, I fed them rather heavily last summer and up to October, the difference being very marked, plants in 7-inch pots producing an abundance of flowers. — J. Cornhill. Holiies in the Bristol Zoolog^ical Gardens. — In these gardens there is a remark- able collection of Hollies. No fewer than 100 varieties are growing. The variety Silver Queen is represented by columnar-trained specimens 15 feet high, and as much as S feet through at the base. Many of them are from fifty to sixty years old, showing the great care they have received at the hands of ilr. Harris the curator, who prunes them in February and replants in April or September, which he considers the best months for this work. Other varieties noted are Milk-maid and its weeping form Maderiensis, Myrtifolia, Hodginsi, Ferox, Golden Queen, Calamitosa, Scotch Golden, Camelli;efolia, Waterer's Golden, and one that is here known as Paul's Maderiensis.— E. M. Three good Verbenas. — Strong, vigorous plants, producing fine blooms of varied and beautiful colours, result from sowing seeds of good strains ; still, some of the named varie- ties are essential in many places, and must be propagated by cuttings to obtain them true to colour. Prominent among these is Ellen Will- mott. I find it more difficult to winter than most ; it resents strong heat and is more prone to rust, but if kept in a lower temperature it does better, and the spring cuttings grow away freely. Another useful kind is Scarlet Defiance, possessing a good constitution and a telling colour. Both the above are better known than the fragrant Sea Foam. This is an American introduction, I think (at least, we had it from Child's years ago). The flowers are borne in abundance, much smaller than the above, white, and with a decided Cowslip perfume, especially in the early morning. It is a free grower, and splendid for cutting. — J. R., The Gardens, Tan-y-hwlch. Some plants in flower, — Crocus Alexandri, a charming species, still very rare in our gardens, is now flowering here. It has long grassy-like leaves and large delicately coloured flowers, white internally, and externally beauti- fully marked with carmine and violet on a some- what lilac ground. The anthers are golden yellow. 0. Leichtlini (0. biflorus var. Leichtlini) is a very distinct and rare plant. The leaves are grassy-like. The flowers are internally pure white and yellow centre, while externally there is a slight tinge of pale lilac with conspicuous greenish or glaucous green streaks. C. Korolkowi fusco-tinctus is a handsome and vigorous plant. The flowers are not very large, but numerous, of a deep golden, sometimes bronze - yellow. C. Sieberi is a fine species with bright lilac flowers. C. ancyrersis is a small-flowered species, though extraordinary free in habit, with deep yellow or orange yellow and yellow anthers. C. reticulatus : The leaves at the time of flowering are only half the proper length, and are then erect. The flower is of a distinct deep lilac, externally feathered, and streaked with rich purple. It is surprising what is often sold for C. reticulatus. As this is one of my favourite Crocuses, I ordered it from several Dutch catalogues in which it was ofl"ered, and I am sorry to say only from one source I received the true species. C. dalmaticus is a fine large-flowering species with a yellowish throat, the segments rich lilac, sometimes rosy lilac, but tinged with buff or purple on the out- side. C. Imperati is evidently a variable species. I can pick out at least two quite distinct forms, undistinguishable except when in flower. The inner segments are bright purple, and the outer ones are in the one form feathered rich purple, while in the other form the external markings are entirely absent. Another form, closely allied to C. suaveolens, is much earlier. — G. Reuthe, Kexton (February 18). Lectures on soils and manures. The governing body of the Aberdeen and North of Scotland College of Agriculture have arranged for a course of lectures on the chemistry of soils and manures for the benefit of market and other gardeners, professional and amateur. The first lecture, of the course of six, was delivered in Aberdeen on the 21st inst., the addresses being given weekly thereafter. The course of lectures is being given by Mr. James Hendrick, B.Sc. , whose addresses on similar subjects have been generally appreciated. It is intended that they shall embrace such subjects as the growth of plants, what they derive from the air and soil, together with the nature and the composition of the soil itself, and other cognate questions. The directors of the Royal Horticultural Society of Aberdeen, with a commendable spirit, have appointed their secretary (Mr. J. B. Rennet) and a committee to assist in bringing the lectures before horticulturists. To make the addresses more valuable questions will be invited at the close of each. THE AVANDEHER'S EVEN SONG. Sweet peace is lying On the hill. No night wind sighing — All is still. The birds are sleeping In the trees, Not a breatli creeping — Not a breeze. 0 wait, and thou, too, shalt rest Even as tliese. S. H. — (Fro)ii the German o/ Goethe.) Fuchsia Rose of Castille.— In the Zoological Gardens, Bristol, Fuchsias are much admired, and cultivated so well that a special two days exhibition is held. Fully 200 specimen plants are grown as pyramids and standards. In the collection there are two plants of the variety Rose of Castille which are fifty-four years old, perfect pyramids, and now fully 9 feet high. Mr. Harris, their custodian, regards them with pardonable pride, having had them in keeping so long. For freedom of flower it is difficult to suggest a better variety. — E. M. American Oaks in England.— One of our nurserymen recently received an order for a collection of Oaks for England, coupled with the request that Southern sorts were not to be included, it being feared they would not live outdoors there. The fact is that probably every one of the strictly Southern Oaks would live there, for all but two or three of them get through the winter at Philadelphia. There came to mind only these that are not hardy in that city : Virens, laurifolia, Catesb^i, and cinerea. Others, which if not strictly Southern or more so than they are Northern, and which do well throughout the Middle States, are : Lyrata, aquatica, Phellos, and falcata. The Phellos and falcata approach North to Philadelphia, both growing within the city limits, and both ending there so far as I know. Two or three falcata exist in a wild state within the boundary of Fairmount Park. Coming back to the request for such Oaks only as would grow in England, there would be little risk in sending every kind indigenous to our country. The greater number of species of Oaks we have grow both North and South. The white, pin, scarlet, red, black, mossy cup, chestnut, post black jack, and others are, some of them, to be found almost from the limit of both Nortli and South, while others are in the border States. There is one thing con- nected with this subject which must not be forgotten, namely, that although a certain tree may grow from far North to far South, the seedlings from the Southern trees will not be hardy in the North. It is meant, of course, those from far South. There seems no question that a tree in time fits itself to its surroundings. Hardly in a perceptible way, perhaps, in one's lifetime, but everything points the way to believing that it does occur. Oaks, Hickories, and other trees which are found in our Northern woods grow, many of them, in Southern woods as well, but it is of no use sowing seeds of the latter in the North ; the seedlings will not prove hardy, having in mind those from far South. Florists' Exchange (New York). Prunus davidiana.— This, the first of all the Almonds, opened its first flower early in the third week of January, and is now in full bloom, the pure white blossoms on a standard tree showing up well against the dark foliage of an old Cupressus at a little distance. All who care for winter flowers in the open — and who does not? — should grow this Prunus, still catalogued by many nurserymen as Amygdalus davidiana. It is a worthy companion to Lonicera fragrantissima, L. Standishi, Hamamelis arborea, Chimonanthus fragrans, and Clematis balearica, all of which produce their blossoms in the depth of winter. There is also a pink-flowered variety of this Prunus, styled rubra, which, as a rule, is not such a free bloomer as the white type, but where it can be induced to acquire a floriferous habit it forms a pleasing contrast to the subject of this note. A sheltered spot should be selected for planting, as biting winds sadly mar the blossoms. Prunus davidiana, which was intro- duced from China by the Abb^ David in 1872, is perfectly hardy, growing freely in the neighbour- hood of Pekin.— S. W. F. Iris histrioides major.— From all appearances this will be as valuable an early spring-flowering plant as I. reticulata. With me every bulb flowers, whether starved or neglected. It has a handsome bulb, with a fine netted tunic, long leaves, which develop after flowering, and large, showy flowers of a rich blue colour, with faint white veins and yellow ridge of the blade of falls. It is also sweet-scented. The typical I. histrioides is much earlier, smaller in flower, and less showy, and cannot be depended upon to flower after the second year after importation. — G. Reuthe. The best Apples.— The complaint that old varieties of Apples quite distanced by newer and better ones are often recommended for culti- vation is due to the fact that persons generally write about what they grow, and not about newer varieties they do not grow. It is for that reason we see in an Apple election varieties coming out high in the list that are not really the best now. I venture to suggest, at the risk of getting into a hornet's nest, that for amateurs six first-class dessert varieties to cover a long season are Beauty of Bath, James Grieve, AUing- ton Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, Lord Hindlip, and Sturmer Pippin, and to make up a round dozen I would add Lady Sudeley, Kinu of the Pippins, Ribston Pippin, Braddick's Nonpareil, Adam's Pearmain, and Cockle Pippin. It will be seen that, while the first half-dozen comprise some newer varieties, the second lot are chiefly old ones. When the best six or twelve desserts are settled upon, then the kitchen varieties may be similarly dealt with. I do not assume that the lists I have given will be generally accepted. If it can be shown that they are imperfect, and that better varieties, old or new, are left out, let us hear of them by all means. So large is the number of generally accepted dessert varieties of 128 THE GARDEN. [March 4, 1905 Apples that there is a range of fully 200 to select I cutting of a cutting of the real tree. I struck from. Out of these the Royal Horticultural eight or nine plants. It is of a very weeping Society in its fruit show schedule publishes a list i character, almost creeping, and has red stems of 100. But so many varieties are bewildering and very fine leaves. These plants, I know for a to the amateur who wishes to have the very best, ' fact, are " great-grandchildren " of the original and especially varieties that do well as bush or tree. — F. espalier trees on the Quince stock, as alone HoW tO fOPCe CUt branches Of suited for small gardens. What varieties suit haPdy-flowCPing trees into early him best will suit the gardener best also as a blOOm. — I have often found this a useful as rule. I would not like to see anyone running on well as an expeditious way of providing a supply high-coloured varieties because of colour, but | of cut flowers in spring when one happened to be selecting them because average good croppers, short or when extra flowers were wanted. Cut have handsome fruits of medium size, of good branches of the following may be forced in this flavour, and which have naturally kept well a way : Lilacs in variety, Spiriei prunifolia, and long season. — A. Dean. others, nearly all the Prunuses, the Mock Flavour in Potatoes. — It may interest Orange, the Crabs, Azaleas, and many other both Mr. E. Miles and other readers to learn i deciduous trees. The way to proceed is to out that when the Royal Horticultural Society's good-sized branches and insert in vases con- vegetable show is held in November next a class ' taining warm water (70° to 75' will be found for yellow flesh Potatoes WATER GARDENING. SMALL PONDS AKD POOLS. I T is probably in the smaller ponds and pools, or in river banks and back-waters, that most pleasure in true water gardening may be had. Everyone who has known the Thames from the intimate point of view of the leisured Nature-lover in boat or canoe, must have been struck by the eminent beauty of the native water-side plants ; indeed, our water gardens would be much impoverished if we were debarred from using some of these. Many of them are among the most pictorial of plants. There is nothing of the same kind of form or carriage among exotics that can take the placing the ' place of the Great Water Dock (Rumex Hydro- This same in strong heat in a propagating house or lapathum), with its 6 feet of height, and its large class has been inserted expressly to encourage the j stove. It is no use trying to force them whilst | long leaves that assume a gorgeous autumn production of yellowish flesh varieties, because it the trees are dormant in winter, only when ; colouring. Then for importance as well as is these alone apparently which give that flavour growth has fairly started in spring. Then it is refinement nothing can be better than the Great so many desire to obtain. If any can get stocks possible to produce flowers in this way with fair Water Plantain, with leaves not unlike those of the Funkia, but rather longer in ^ ^ shape. Then there is the Great Reed f (Phragmites) and the Reedmace that we call Bulrush (Typha), and the true Bulrush (Scirpus) that gives the rushes for rush-bottomed chairs — all handsome things in the water close to the bank. Flowering Rush (Butomus) makes one think that here is some tropical beauty escaped from a hot-house, so striking is its umbel of rosy bloom carried on the tall, round, dark green stem. It has the appearance of a plant more fitted to accompany the Papyrus and blue Water Lily of ancient Egypt than to be found at home in an English river. This charming plant would look well near Equisetum Telniateia, which would grow close down to the water's edge. The j'ellow Iris of our river banks is also an indispensable plant for the water garden, and will do equally well just in the water or just out of it. Not unlike its foliage is that of the Sweet Sedge (Acorus Calamus), fairly frequent by the river bank. I have driven my boat's nose into a clump of it when about to land on the river bank, becoming aware of its presence by the sweet scent of the bruised leaves. The branched Bur-reed (Sparga- niura ramosuni) has somewhat the same use as the Sweet Sedge in the water garden, making handsome growths of pale green luscious- looking foliage, and spikes of bloom that are conspicuous for the class of plant ; it is related to the Chair Rush (Scirpus). It grows in very shallow water and in watery mud. The Cyperus Sedge (Carex pseudo- of the Old Victoria, Lapstone, Red Regent, and a success, but the practice is not recommended, i Cj'perus) is also handsome for much the same few others, they will iind in them the colour in excepting in cases of urgency, as the flowers j use. flesh it is desired to obtain. To go back to very have not the same lasting quality as those grown | Of the floating river flowers the earliest to old, poor cropping, and disease-absorbing varie- on rooted plants, and the practice if carried out bloom is the large Water Buttercup (Ranunculus ties for use as parents is, it is to be feared, wasted too often by the inexperienced might lead to the : floribundus) ; itsjarge quantity of white bloom is A NATDRAL WATKR GARDEN. The larger ^orm of the Water Buttertyitp ( Ranuneuhm aquatilts) in the J'oretjroxtnd, and the true Bulrnt:h (Scirpits lacitstrlg) beyond. labour. Woodstock Kidnej', if stock of it can be , disfigurement of valuable and beautiful trees, obtained, was one of the best yellowish flesh On the other hand, occasional judicious and Potatoes of twenty years ago, and has been one intelligent cutting might do good, and certainly of the most prolific of pollen parents. That could not do much harm. — 0. T. variety used on Up-to-Date, for instance, should ' Chinese Cabbage.— In regard to your have some good influence, but the fact remains remarks on the above subject in your issue of that most, if not all, of our best croppers and the lllh ult. I would like to point out that this disease resisters have the whitest flesh. After plant is Brassica campestris, L. A good descrip- all, soil is a great factor in flavour produc- tion of the plant and its mode of cultivation may lion. — A. D. be found in the " Kew Bulletin" for 18S.S, pages Napoleon's W^illOW. — In reply to 1.37 and 1.38, under the name of Shantung ' "Enquirer," in The Garden of the 18th ult.. Cabbage. It is largely cultivated in Hong Kong | water, which would tend to submerge the upper referring to Napoleon's Willow, I shall be very and South China, and is an excellent vegetable. — [leaves, they disappear, and the finely divided pleased to give him a young plant raised from a W. J. Tdtciier. j ones only remain. very striking. Where this capital plant has been established there might be a good planting of Marsh Marigold near it on the actual pond edge. The two look very well together, and all the better with a good stretch of the dark Chair Rush behind them. One point of botanical interest in the Water Buttercup is its two dis- tinct sets of leaves, those under water divided into many hair-like segments, while those that float are flatter and wider. It has been noticed that when the plant grows in swiftly running March 4, 1905,] THE GAEDEN. 129 The charming Villarsia nymphseoides, with fringed yellow bloom, though not a common plant, may be found here and there on the Thames, sometimes in large quantities. It grows in water 3 feet to 4 feet deep or even more, its small, thick, rounded leaves looking like those of a tiny Water Lily. Each neat little plant is anchored by El strong round flexible stem to the root in the mud. It is well worthy of a place in the water garden. I used to get the plants up by dragging the bottom with a long-handled rake, and trans- ferred them to the pond of more than one friend. If a place is chosen a little shallower than their original home and a stone tied to each root, they will soon establish themselves and make a good patch the next year. It likes still but not stagnant water. The Arrow-head (Sagittaria) is another hand- some native thing that likes a place near the pond or river edge. There are other and still better species, one American and one Chinese, and a good double-flowered variety. Frog-bit is another pretty floating plant, with heart-shaped leaves and habit of growth not unlike Villarsia. The Water Soldier (Stratiotes) is a curious thing and handsome in its way. The whole plant is not unlike the bunch of spiny-edged foliage in the top of a Pine-apple, but of a dark bottle- green colour, and a foot long. It grows at the bottom, rising only to flower and then sinks again. It is more a curiosity than a militant water garden ornament, but it certainly gives interest to a watery region to know that this strange thing is there and that with luck one may be on the spot to see it flower. The Butter-bur (Petaaites), with its large leaves a foot or more across, makes a great effect as a foliage plant on the pond edge, or where a space of very shallow slope comes down to the water. The Buckbean (Menyanthes) is one of the prettiest of English flowers. Its home is the muddy edge of river or pond or very wet bog ; it does not need running water. The leaves are rather like three leaves of Broad Bean, joined into a large trefoil ; they stand up out of the water. The flowers, which also stand well up, are a spike of pretty pink bloom ; the whole blossom is delicately veined by a fringing of white hairs. It is a plant of the Gentian tribe, as is also the Villarsia. The Summer Snowflake (Leucojum sestivum) is beautiful beside the pond or pool ; in strong alluvial soil growing to a surprising size. It is one of the beat of plants for growing in quantity in tufts like Daffodils ; indeed, in meadow land by stream or pond the two plants would meet and amalgamate happily, the damper places of the Daffodils agreeing with the drier of the Snow- flake. Here again the addition of groups of Marsh Marigold would come very well. (To be continued.) CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) TREE CARNATIONS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] SI R , — In reply to Mr. E. H. Jenkins's letter in The Garden of the 4th ult., page 77, I may first say that it is more than forty years ago since I was asso- ciated with the Tree Carnations, and the varieties that first came under my notice were almost all of a tall habit of growth, with flowers more or less fringed. The collection included the variety La Belle, referred to by Mr. Jenkins. It was a free-flowering sort, but the growth, though tall, was too slender. Bride or The Bride was better. I cannot be certain of the name of the best red, but we had several, among them Rosabelle or La Belle Rose, and later on came Sir Charles Wilson, a true type of with one of the prominent exhibitors on the the tall-growing section, with large, full, bright rosy red flowers, fringed petals, and sweet scented ; then we had Laura, of the same type, with flesh-pink flowers. Andalusia, which came from the Continent about twenty-six years ago, was a great favourite, gaining a first - class certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society about the year 1880 or 1881. When I first grew these they were of remarkable vigour. Mr. Jenkins refers to Miss Joliffe ; this, I believe, was one of the first of the dwarf type. As far as I remember it was in 1871 that this gained a first-class certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society. Lucifer, Irma, and Mile. Carle, also other dwarf whites, were among the earlier dwarf sorts. These dwarfer sorts took the place of the tall-growing or original tree varieties, but have not proved sufficiently vigorous for pot cul- ture. Miss Joliffe lasted longer than most of them. I believe that Carnations continually grown under pot culture will gradually weaken, and in support of this I may mention that the best stocks of the Malmaison varieties, as far as my experience goes, are from those layered in the open ground and taken up early in the autumn. Mr. .Jenkins refers to those grown in the open ground by Messrs. Hooper and Co. I saw a good deal of those, and it was not sur- prising that the flowers should fail to open, and certainly for stock purposes the treatment was not calculated to produce the best results. Mr. Jenkins refers to the American varieties not being seen at their best in this country. This may be true ; yet it is remarkable how far they excel all our own varieties, and the planting out as adopted by Mr. Dutton with such excellent results must prove that it is possible to improve on our old English practices. I have been inter- ested in Tree Carnations from my earliest start in garden work, and have been fairly successful as a raiser of seedlings, propagator, and grower, and my experience is that no varieties will last an unlimited time under pot culture, and the only way to keep up a vigorous stock is to plant out either in the open ground or under glass. And we need new seedling varieties to take the place of those which fail to sustain a vigorous constitu- tion. In raising seedlings, or, rather, hybridising for seed, I do not suggest that the fringed petal should be a necessity, but those that come from that type and are of the tall, vigorous habit should be selected, and they should not be inter- crossed with the dwarf, smooth-petalled sorts. I am fully convinced that the American varieties partake strongly of the habits of those I first knew as English Tree Carnations. A. Hemsley. LESSONS FROM CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOWS. [To THE Editor or "The Garden."] Sir, — At the outset I would say I am not an exhibitor, and have no interest in exhibitors beyond judging their produce, but I do like to see a case put clearly and without prejudice. It is not right to say the plants are sacrificed for one bloom. The best of them produce three, and some four, upon each plant, or how would some of the prominent exhibitors manage to stage so largely at the shows from a limited number of plants? "A Reader" must remember that few visitors would be content to look upon market or other freely-grown plants, and be so well satisfied as to repeat their visits. No; the British public require something more than they can see in any market or florist's window. The finest exhibits of freely - flowered and well - arranged plants, all with small-flowered varieties, was at Ascot last November, yet not one visitor in ten stopped to look at either of the groups. What would become of the many Chrysanthemum shows if " A Reader's " views were carried out, not to mention the nurserymen, who go to enormous expense to bring out the finest of new varieties to take the place of those worn out and super- seded ? Only a few weeks ago I was in conversation subject of showing. I said, " Are you not tired of it ?" He said, " Yes, I am, but my employer is so fond of it that he will not hear of me giving it up." This is but one instance of how some employers regard the exhibiting question. If no plants were grown on the big bloom system of culture, how should we obtain some of our finest decorative varieties? Does "A Reader" think the ordinary market grower's method of culture can develop the form, colour, size of floret, and general character of the flowers in the same way that the present system of cultivation does ? Were it not for the practice now in existence we should never have known the value of many varieties that are now grown purely for the production of quantity, early and late flowers also. What could be more effective than a vase or basket containing half a dozen or a dozen blooms on a side or centre table, or on the ground in a front hall or drawing- room corner ? No ; the large, well - developed blossoms, when not coarse and of efi'ective colour- ing, are still popular and desirable, and will continue so. What gardeners should do — and they do it now more than formerly — is to cultivate varieties for quantity of flower, early, late, and midseason, so that their employers may have a share of those sorts which are admittedly of great value. If this were generally done we should hear less of the desire to dispense with the large blooms. E. MoLTNEUx. ENGLISH NAMES FOR PLANTS. [To THE Editor or "The Garden."] Sir, — Having read your article on "English Names for Plants " with much interest, may I be permitted to oS'er a few remarks on the subject ? I think if everyone were to learn the Latin names of both garden and wild flowers, and call them by those names, it would be much simpler, as so many well-known flowers have two or three diilerent English names. To take two examples of wild flowers : Cardamine pratensis is known as Lady's Smock, Milkmaids, and Cuckoo Flower; and I have heard it called Cuckoo Pint, which name is usually connected with Lords and Ladies, otherwise Arum maculatum. If this plant was known as the wild Arum it would save a great deal of confusion ; and, putting aside the question of utility, the botanical names might be used sometimes on grounds of suitability ; for instance, take the pretty little flower commonly known as Stitchwort, which beautifies our hedgerows with its myriads of fragile star-like white blossoms in early spring, what name could be more suitable or descriptive than the Latin one of Stellaria ? Amongst garden flowers there is the Syringa, by which is meant the Philadelphus, a name which applies to nothing else ; or another name, the English one, is the Mock Orange, either of the two latter names will do, but why call it Syringa, when this is the botanical name of the Lilac ? I think these few instances illus- trate fairly clearly my meaning, when I say that Latin names, even if sometimes rather long and hard to pronounce, are simpler than a multiplicity of English ones. Cross Lanes, Guildford. A. Smaixpeice. IPOMCEA RUBRO-C^RULEA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I notice on page 89 of The Garden of the 11th ult. Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert gives a few details of the culture of this climber. His details begin when the plants are 2 feet high. My expe- rience with this most beautiful plant is that when it gets to that height there is no more difficulty with it. I find the trouble is in the raising of the plant to that height or less. Anyone who is about to grow this plant should sow the seeds about the end of the present month in strong heat. Get the plants well established before hardening them off, as I find this impor- tant. Of course, with me here the plant will not thrive out of doors, but grown in the greenhouse 130 THE GARDEN. [March 4, 1905. it makes a splendid show, and at once attracts attention when in flower. Another great point I find with this plant is that raany seedsmen catalogue this variety as blue and red, but without a doubt the true Ipomcea rubro-cserulea is the light blue. £ilg Gardens, Corweii. J. S. HiGGiNS. GARDENERS' ROYAL ORPHAN FUND. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I was glad to notice, in looking down the report of the annual general meeting, that the question of the nomination of two children from the same family was mentioned, and will soon be discussed by the committee. It is to be hoped they will be able to make an alteration as soon as possible. There are now twenty-one oases, in all forty-two children, in which the dual benefit is derived. In some cases this will not cease for another eight years, consequently my suggestion as to the form any new rule might take (on page 82) is hardly practicable, as no one would wish to take away the benefit from children already in receipt of it, even if it were possible to do so. I would suggest to the committee the adoption of a new rule somewhat on these lines : "That on and after the annual meeting in February, 1906, no two children in the one family shall be nominated at the same time, also on and from that date, during the time a child is deriving benefit from the fund, no application shall be entertained from the same family." Apart from any alteration that may be necessary in the wording, such is the purport of my suggestion. I was glad to receive corroboration from Mr. Dean as to the feeling of many gardeners. In his capacity as horticultural instructor and judge, he comes in contact with a far greater number of subscribers than the average gardener, and should be able to speak as one who knows. Claremont. E. BuRRELL. WATERING PLANTS IN WINTER. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — " R. D." writes under this head on page 74 of The Garden, and remarks " that when water is given to plants it should always be of the same temperature as that of the house in which the plants are growing," and, further, "it is always best for the water to be warmed 3° or 4° above the temperature of the house." So far as my own experience goes, this is a theory that ought to have been exploded long ago, and there is no more reason whj' the water given to plants in winter, or at any other time, should be so many degrees higher than the house temperature in which the plants are grown than there is reason for all the drinks we partake of as individuals being of a greater degree of heat than that of our body. Doubtless, it the question were put to one hundred gardeners, 90 per cent, would favour an equable temperature, i.e., for house and water for the plants. It is just as likely that 89 per cent, of these could only speak of their preference in such a case, and would be quite unable to produce proof if occasion required. I have three small greenhouses here, however, in which there is no water tank at all, the supply having to be carried in as required. A bad arrangement many will say, but it has negatived for years past the theory advanced by " R. D." For something like twenty years these houses have contained as a winter crop Roses (General Jacqueminot), and some of the finest early red Roses sent into Covent Garden in February have been grown in them. As a matter of fact, I get better flowers from these houses than I usually do from other houses in which there are water tanks. This superiority I attribute in a large degree not to water or watering, but to the greater time between breaking into growth and flowering, the winter growth and development being exceedingly slow. The later batches have larger and fuller flowers, but in colour and form the earliest are the best. For these three houses the water from an open tank is used at all times, except when covered with ice. Some of the largest market nurseries have huge cement tanks between the houses to catch the rain water, a small dip hole here and there inside them sufficing. Bulbs for forcing, Eucharis, Asparagus, Fern, Roses, and other crops are grown in the houses thus supplied. Probably one of the most deceptive things is the temperature of the water, even when in a well-heated greenhouse. With the latter at 65° the water may be found to be quite S° or 10" below this. Not only is this the case in winter, and in the greenhouse much the same proportion is to be found any day in summer, and as the atmosphere is the warmer in the greenhouse, so it is in the open in summer time, and the water in each case will be found a few degrees colder. In the result the amateur has nothing to fear from any disparity in the temperature of the water employed for his wild chicory in the garden. plants. He has far greater cause for anxiety as to the amount he will give his plants or whether they require any or not. Hampton Hill. E. H. Jenkins. VITALITY OF SEEDS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Your correspondent who writes under the unassuming name of " Ignoramus " is welcome to anything I can tell him, and on the subject of the vitality of seeds there are mingled lights and shadows, as of frauds discovered and of mysteries unsolved. "Vulgar errors" die hard; there seems no " weed killer " of science that can quite keep them down. They could be made to destroy themselves but for the sorry fact that fiction seems to go further than truth. The " mummy Wheat " fiction should be pretty well exploded by this time. I have even blown it up myself by growing the plant Triticum compositum, and finding the vitality of its grain no greater than that of any other Wheat. I once spent a series of years to test the longevity of all our more common cereals. The grain of Rye, an angular thin corn (well described in the old song, " The Rye is like the miser, that's withered, lean, and old "), perished first, then Barley, then Oats, and lastly Wheat. After the second year's keeping germination was distinctly slower in them all, then weaker still, until it completely failed far within the limit of the ten years which, if my life should last, I hoped to give for the experi- ments. I was much disappointed to find my most favourite cereal, Indian Corn (Zea Mays), for all its bulk and fatness, as perishable as any. How- ever, I was not utterly unprepared, because I know that in America it is a Maize maxim to "always sow Corn that is full of germ," which I take to mean seed that is youthful and fresh. "The wisdom of the Egyptians" was far too great to permit such breadstutfs as their composite- headed Wheat to be lost to cultivation. It was, indeed, a fit emblem of plenty, for the supposed needs of the ancient Egyptian dead, and a safe crop in a land where rain in harvest is unknown, but equally unsafe in a mixed climate like our own. The straw of this Wheat is so strong that the topmost joint is solid throughout its length, but the heavy compound ears, and their woolly, bearded chaff, would retain rain water long enough for the grain to swell and then sprout. It is only the human mummy that gains in estimation by the lapse of years. Even as Laurence Sterne, preaching in York Minster on the subject of "The Prodigal Son," said, the wild young spendthrift had been victimised by the Egyptians into purchasing new things for old, and that "even his mummies had not been dead long enough " ! "Mummy Peas" are in the same "Black List " of frauds, much as the sham antiquities that I suppose are still paying investments in the Ancient East, where I remember being beset in the Land of Egypt by two pestilent vendors of time-worn curiosities, who vanished when one of them denounced his rival as being a villain who had got his stock from Birmingham. I understand that the wily Oriental has been further giving himself away by offering seeds of Indian Corn as having been discovered in the possession of an Egyptian mummy ; and I think this would imply an immense anachronism, for Maize comes to us from the West, and, by legendary lore, it was "Hiawatha," the God-like hero of the American Wild Indian tribes, who first brought to his people the gift of " Mondamin, The Spirit's Berry." Both the habit and the cultivation of this great cereal are beautifully outlined in Longfellow's poem " Hiawatha." In mysteries unsolved concerning " Vitality in Seeds," I think it more considerate to wait for space in some future issue of The Garden, i.e., if such would be of sutBcient interest. Francis D. Horner, M.A., V.M.H. CHICORY AS A GARDEN FLOWER. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Although the gardener's eye is generally on the look - out for any beautiful effect produced either by the skill of man in com- bining and grouping plants and trees in the garden or by the hand of Nature in the fields and woods, it is not, perhaps, whilst following a pack of otterhounds running a hot drag amidst all the excitement of the chase that even the most susceptible in this respect would allow his thoughts time to be diverted from the sport that at such a time is apt to absorb all our attention ; but it was under such circumstances and whilst enjoying one Of the most exciting runs it has been my good fortune to take part in that I suddenly found myself gazing, wrapt in admira- tion, at A most beautiful picture produced by a large drift of tall herbaceous plants growing to a height of about 4 feet to 5 feet, bearing quan- tities of clear blue, Daisy-like flowers, reflecting in every petal the clear azure tint of a cloudless summer sky. For a few seconds I stopped in the headlong race to examine more carefully the plants which produced such a beautiful efl'ect, and as I had not seen them before I hastily picked a few, fixed them to the inside of my cap, and hurried' March 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 131 SMALL WATERFALL IN THE ROCK GARDEN OF MR. C. BEWBS AT GNATON HALL. on to make up the ground I had lost and join again in the hunt, which soon took us far away from the spot, following the many windings of the stream. I took the blooms, much withered, out of the lining of my cap, where they had undergone somewhat rough treatment, and placed them carefully in water. By the next morning they were sufficiently revived to be identified, and turned out to be nothing more nor less than the common Chicory. I wonder who would think of looking for Chicory plants by the side of a Welsh stream, and how many of your readers, when they drink their Coffee, so often containing a large percentage of the fragrant Chicory root, ever dream of asking what sort of flowers that plant produces. Yet it is well worth growing, either in the herbaceous border or in any rough place, where the plants will get plenty of sun, simply for the sake of those lovely azure blue flowers which it produces so freely. I at once sent for a packet of seed, and in a short time was able to plant out groups of seed- lings in the back of a border facing south, and the result the second year after planting, when the roots had become thoroughly established, was in every way satisfactory. They grew most freely, and flowered throughout the greater part of the summer whenever the sun shone upon them, proving one of the most interesting groups in the garden. The photograph I am sending you, unfor- tunately, does not give at all an adequate idea of their value, as I had to take it from behind the plants, but it will serve to show how well they are adapted for planting in open spaces in shrub- beries or rough banks, old quarries, or even to cover unsightly rubbish heaps, where the seed may be sown broadcast and the plants, when once established, can take care of themselves. They are not at all particular in the matter of soil, but they must have plenty of sun to open their flowers, which they do, like the common Daisy, as soon as the sun shines on them in the morning, closing them again in the evening and when the sky becomes overcast. Many of your readers will no doubt have plants of Chicory in their gardens grown for the purpose of providing an ingredient for winter salads. as suggested above, and I am sure they will not be displeased with the result. W. A. Watts. THE ROCK GARDEN. T ROCK GARDEN-MAKING. XXI. — Running Water in the Rock Garden. HAT ponds and Lily pools, either natural or constructed so as to resemble Nature, greatly enhance the delights and the possibilities of a rock garden, has already been mentioned in previous essays, the last of which appeared in The Garden of December 31, 1904. 1 will now deal with another form of water in the rock garden, namely, Running Water. Pools and ponds by means of their reflect- ing surface give light to the rock garden, but running water gives actual life to the scene as it dashes over rocks and boulders. Run- ning water at all times is one of the most delightful adjuncts to a rock garden, and one of the most useful as well, since it can be turned to good account in quite a variety of ways. Of these the most important are streamlets and water- falls. Natural Streamlets.— We, are lucky indeed if a natural stream or brook traverses the ground close to the site of our rocks, and if the supply of water is constant. It is a very easy matter, as a rule, to divert the course of such a streamlet either wholly or partially, and to lead it through the rock garden. On the water-soaked banks of such a stream we are able to grow an endless variety of plants which love the water-side. Such a strearnlet, too, can be made most picturesque at little for, if the water supply is fairly and very often it is possible to save the cost of securing the sides and bottom of such a stream by concrete or other watertight materials. Especially is this the case if the subsoil consists of clay. I always find it a good plan to arrange the levels of flowing water in such a way that a rapid current can occur only where stones or rock form the sides and bottom, and would prevent too much wash. Where the ground is soft a rapid flow of water would soon wash away the sides and tear up the bottom ; it is best, therefore, to keep the streamlet fairly level on such unprotected ground, letting the water bay back, say, to a depth of 6 inches to 8 inches, and then fall over a succession of irregular miniature dams arranged with stones to resemble natural rock. Sharp bends in the watercourse should also be made by rocks, not only for the sake of greater security, but because in Nature we almost invariably find that when flowing water makes a sudden bend it is owing to coming in contact with rocks which divert its course, and cause a wash on the opposite shoreline or bank, which would naturally assume a more or less hollow curve in consequence. Artificial Streamlets in the Rock Garden. — The cases in which a natural stream can be utilised for the rock garden are naturally but few. In nine cases out of ten, probably, when water is introduced this has to be done arti- ficially, that is to say, it is drawn from some reservoir or tank, and is conveyed in pipes. It is more diflftcult in such a case to impart to the watercourse that wild and natural appear- ance so indispensable for association with rocks, but it is possible, nevertheless, to make an artificial streamlet in such a way that the uninitiated would never for a moment suspect its origin. To do this, not a vestige of the masonry, pipes, (fee, must be visible, but all has to be masked with rocks and vegetation. Assuming, then, that the water is collected in some kind of reservoir and is thence con- veyed to a place near the site of the rock garden, say, by a 2-inch pipe, or less accord- ing to the quantity of water at disposal, the first question to settle would be the exact spot where it would be desirable for the water to make its first appearance, say, at some distance from the rock garden proper. From this spot a winding trench is dug about 1 foot or 2 feet deep, leading in natural curves from the end of the supply pipe to the water- fall, pond, or whatever the outlet is to be. The width should vary, of course, but it should be at least double as much as the width of the desired streamlet is to be when finished. The reason for this is best explained by the accompanying rough sketch, showing I expense. LetVe advise them to plant a few of these roots abundant, a little waste is of no consequence. SKETCH OF TRANSVERSE SECTION OF AN ARTIFICIAL STREAMLET, SHOWING HOW THE MASONRY IS MASKED. a transverse section of a streamlet. The artificial bottom and sides are made perfectly watertight by means of cement concrete. When perfectly dry, the sides are masked 132 THE GARDEN. [March 4, 1905. partly with thick pieces of turf set up on their edges and partly by rocks. Both stones and turf (as the sketch will show) are not placed close to the concreted sides, but so as to leave the spaces A and B, which are filled with soil. When the water has reached its proper level in the finished streamlet, these spaces would, of course, be thoroughly soaked with water, and form an excellent home for various water-loving plants. The handsome King Fern (Osmunda regalis), Scirpus, Carex, and many others revel in a position such as this. Japanese Iris, too, do well if planted high enough, so that • their crowns are well above the waterline, while their roots can reach the water. The bottom of the stream should be covered with river pebbles and well washed river gravel thrown in irregularly while the cement is wet. If well done, this judicious masking would obliterate every trace of the artificial work, and a streamlet constructed on this principle may be made to look perfectly natural. It should, of course, never be dry, and the smaller the supply of water the more will it be advisable to let the streamlet be a succession of minia- ture level pools, stepped as it were, at irregular distances, by rocks over which the water descends when the pools are overflowing. At the beginning of such a streamlet, that is to say, at the end of the water-pipe, it is advisable to dig a pit 1 foot or 2 feet deeper than the bottom of the streamlet proper and to make this perfectly watertight, so as to form a kind of basin, which would collect the water before it spreads out. The best way of hiding the pipe, &c., from view is to place rocks in such a way as to resemble a deep cleft with a dark recess, so arranged as to make it impossible to see the end of it. If stones and plants are properly arranged the water will appear as a natural spring among rocks, and by putting a few bold - looking plants in the background this effect will be much enhanced. I will now briefly con- sider another kind of running water, namely, and betrays at once its artificial character. Wherever we see natural waterfalls we invariably see also, either close by or at a dis- tance, still higher ground from which the water has sprung. It is for this reason that I consider it necessary, whenever possible, to let the flowing water be visible before it forms the desired fall. An example of this kind is given in the accompanying illustration, repre- senting part of a rock garden and waterfall I constructed last summer for Mr. C. Bewes, at Gnaton Hall. The figure in this picture (the head gardener) is standing near the spot where the water makes its first appearance, and forms a streamlet winding in and out among the rocks. This streamlet is invisible from the particular spot from which I took the photograph, but the little waterfall is plainly seen descending over a small cave. As the water supply in this case was very limited the cave furnishes the desirable dark background, which makes it possible for the falling water to be seen distinctly. Had the fall been so arranged as to fall merely over a structure of stones, this limited quantity of water would have been almost lust to view. In front of the cave will be observed a step- ping-stone bridge. Among the plants visible in the margin are Iris Kasmpferi, Rodgersia podophylla, Chelone Lyoni, and others, while on the higher level are alpines. F. W. Meyek. (To be continued.) THE ROSE GARDEN. FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI. THIS is by far the finest Rose in my garden, in which I cultivate 150 varieties. I am in the habit of describing it to ray friends as a German Rose, of French extraction, with a Russian name. It derives its attributes chiefly from one of its parents. Merveille de Lyon, which, however, in all respects it greatly transcends. It is purer in colour, more perfect in form, and not nearly so sensitive to atmospheric influences. Its texture is of the softest satiny white. On the other hand, its wonderful facility in opening and long flowering season may be safelj' attributed to Caroline Testout ; but it is destitute of the fragrance of that variety. This ia an unquestion- able limitation in a magnificent Rose of such derivation, which, though included among the so-called Hybrid Perpetuals, might be described as a half Hybrid Tea. Daring last summer I sent a flower of Frau Karl Drusehki to Mme. Melba, the great prima donna, nearly 7 inches across. David R. Williamson. Kirkmaiden Manse, Wigtonxhire, X.B. THE BEST WHITE CLIMBING ROSE. Many who have grown Rose Mme. Alfred Carriere willingly concede to it prior place among white climbing Roses. Not only is it a free grower, but from early summer until early autumn it is more or less in bloom, and thus enjoys a great advantage over those varieties whose season of blossoming is short. We have known delightful results obtained by planting this Rose against old and worn out fruit trees ; at the end of the second season the Rose shoots had clambered in and out and among the fruit tree branches and had covered them with blossom. Wateefalls. Though it can- not be denied that height is a great factor in the production of a picturesque waterfall, it must be remem- bered that an absolutely natural appear ance is of far greater import- ance still. I have seen rock gar- dens in which, by means of pipes, the water was conducted to the highest pinnacle of the rocks, and allowed to fall from that height. Such an arrangement cannot appeal to us, because it is contrary to all rules of Nature, CLIMBING ROSE MME. ALTRKD CAKKIEKF, ONE OF THE EAKLIiST AND LATEST TO ELOOM. TWO BEAUTIFUL CRIMSON ROSES. As the Hybrid Teas are now so universally planted there is a tendency to ignore Hybrid Perpetuals. I am not going to disparage the Hybrid Teas. They are far too beautiful and useful for that, but I must say how sadly we feel the want of rich colours and good form and fragrance in this race. Without a doubt Liberty and Eloile de France will meet the want to a certain extent, but they have not the rich fragrance of the Hybrid Perpetuals. There are two very charming sorts, one of them quite old, which should be more grown. I refer to Lord Macaulay and Duke of Albany. The former although intro- duced as far back as 187-i, is very brilliantin colour, with a rich vel- vety shading. It is not a vigorous grower, but yet there ia nothing delioateabout the Rose. Duke of Albany ia a gem. Its vivid scarlet- red with black shading needs to be seen in its most intense form to be really appre- ciated. Suffice it to say that both varieties mingle well together, in habit as well as form, colour, and vigour. The scar- let edges of Duke of Albany ia a very taking trait. Theae Hybrid Perpetual Rosea are not compar- able in profuse and continuous blooming to the Hybrid Teas, but in the true Rose season they hold their own. P. 4 Supplement to THE GARDEN, March ^lli, 1905. I TULIP MARGUERITE March 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 133 COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1269. MAY-FLOWERING- TULIPS. AY - FLOWERING or Darwin Tulips are very beautiful, and of this interesting group Mar- guerite—or Margaret, as it is also called — is one of the most refined and distinct in colour. They happily flower between the latest Daffodils and the Fasonies. Nowhere do we see them in the same perfection as in the garden in beds or large groups. In these positions the bold leafy stems, 2 feet or 2^ feet high, reach their fullest development, and support a globular flower, perfectly moulded, and embrac- i n g the widest pos- sible range of colour, in which the selfs are perhaps the more strik- ing gener- ally. Nor is it in the matter of colour alone that these Tulips com- mand atten- tion. There is reason to believe that a large circle of those who admire this flower ad- mire also that perfect con tour which, in this section at least, has attained to the highest perfection. Those who have had the pleasure of seeing a field o f t h e s e May- flower- ing forms in" full beauty have seen a sight that never fades from the memory ; yet, notwithstanding their beauty and the com- paratively cheap rate at which they may be bought, their cultivation is not so general as themerit of the group justifies. This is singular indeed, if we remember how these things attract when shown in flower. The variety Illustrated is a perfectly globular flower of a soft rose-blush internally, a characteristic well depicted in the coloured plate. E. H. J. Chinese Primula. It was shown by Messrs. Sutton and Sons, and given an award of merit. The flowers are shown natural size in the illustration, and, as will be seen, are of pretty form, whilst there is no trace of colour- ing ; they are pure white. The plant is very free, and in all ways an acquisition. NOTES ON HARDY PLAjSITS. ANCHUSA. Thk article in The Garden of the 14th ult. on a "New Italian Alkanet " interested me very much, as we have a most beautiful plant here which answers to its description and the illus- these into short lengths and place them thickly in boxes of sandy soil. When growth has taken place they can be reboxed or potted, finally planting them out in the spring. Seeds are produced very sparsely. Hants. Geokge Ellwood. PEIMDLA HIS MAJESTY. (Natural me. Given an auard of ment by the Royal Hoi tiailtural Society on ■ ">« lUh ult., when shown by Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Heading.) CHINESE PRIMULA HIS MAJESTY. One of the most interesting plants shown at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 11th ult. was this variety of tration in every way very closely. This admirable ] bloom plant has been in existence in this neighbourhood for over twenty years, so it is not an uncommon sight to see finely-grown specimens in old- fashioned cottage gardens growing apparently uncared for. Some of the trade growers also possess it, as I have observed it in exhibits at southern summer shows. The variety here is called Superba. It forms plants of immense proportions. Two last year attained a height of 7 feet and a width of 8 feet; truly, as Mr. Fitzherbert says, " the finest of all blue-flowered perennials," if not the king of hardy plants. No plant attracts the eye so quickly or commands greater praise. Propaga- tion has been effected by taking unflowered shoots with a heel attached in autumn from the base of the plant, also from the roots. This is certainly the moat prolific, as thick fleshy roots 2 feet long can be severed from the plant. Cut I NOTE Mr. Fitzherbert in his remarks in The Garden of the 14th ult., page 21, on this Anchusa assumes it to be a new plant. A form of Anchusa italica, which I have named Superba, has been growing in this neighbourhood for twenty-five years, and which in appearance is identical with that figured in The Garden and accompanying Mr. Fitzherbert's remarks. The history of my plant is briefly this : Mr. Chequer, gardener to Mrs. Franklyn, Shedfield Lodge, near Botley, who is no mean authority on hardy plants, found this Alkanet in the border. Seeing it was a good plant he saved it, and eventually gave a piece to the vicar of Shedfield, the Rev. A. B. Alexander, a keen gardener, and at one time a pro- minent rosarian (who at the present moment, I regret to say, is seriously ill). He increased it as rapidly as possible, giving pieces to all who admired it. In this way it was early distributed, my plant coming from the vicar of Swan- more, the Rev. W. E. Medlicott. In this neighbourhood it is quite hardy, but I find the most vigorous plants fail at times to send up proportionate sucker-like growths the follow- ing spring. I have seen scores of seedlings ■ raised from the sup- posed stock, but not in one instance do they compare with the x* original in size, form, or colour of the even in foliage or habit of growth. The plant itself does not ripen seed at all freely, huge plants have given seed most sparingly ; in fact, none at times. Last year a single plant here- grew 7 feet high, 8 feet in diameter, and was furnished with huge spikes of blossom, which lasted quite fresh for many months. Those who saw it marvelled at its brilliancy of colour. As a hardy border plant it is unequalled for effect. The stock is now in the hands of several of our prominent hardy plant growers and nurserymen, and will soon be more generally known, as it should be. I have now on trial a form with pale blue flowers, which I have named Azurea. This, I think, will be almost as effective as Superba, which is an especially rich blue. The Anchusa is a charming plant for the summer garden. E. MOLYNBUX. Sioanmore Park, Bishop's Waltham. ■N.-. / 134 THE GARDEN. [March 4, 1905. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. SIMPLE HINTS. BUSH IVIES. — When they have 1 Marigolds, Zioiiias, Antirrhinums, Ten Week attained size the Bush or Tree Ivies! Stocks, Asters, Salpiglossis, Gaillardialorenziana, are very effective plants, either as and Balsams, either in mixtures or masses of one single specimens on the margin of ' plant, will make a charming garden, less bright, the lawn or on the rockery, or in perhaps, than Geraniums, but more pleasing and groups in any conspicuous position, i at less cost. There is a good deal of variety among them all of which are easily increased by cuttings of the ripened wood after the leaves begin to fall in autumn, K. H. Wonn Cast-t on Tennis iaK-re.^This is often a source of trouble to players, especially in early summer. By the application of a good dressing some have variegated foliage of gold and silver, 1 Raising Tender Annuals. — Sow the seeds now of fresh slacked lime and silver sand (or gritty others have yellow berries, and a collection would 1 in shallow boxes thinly, and place in frame or ' ' be full of interest. They may be propagated ' house where there is a little heat. When from cuttings or by grafting on strong plants of ~ the Irish Ivy, but will not come true from seeds. All the plants I have raised from seeds have gone back to the original forms. Skill in the Use of Tools. — The average run of enough to handle prick off into other boxes about 1 inch apart, or more if space is unlimited, and by the middle of May every plant will be sturdy and hardened ready to go out. With a little pinching, and in some cases pegging down, the beds will soon fill up and be very beautiful all river sand will do) the lawn will be freed from this unpleasant nuisance. The dressing should consist of half a barrow-load of lime (applied as soon as possible and in showery weather) to the pole of ground, and the same of sand. Should the weather be dry, the lime had better be watered in, when it will be found that the worms will all come to the surface, mostly dying, but men are not such good tool men as their fathers the summer, and supply quantities of flowers for all should be picked off and destroyed. Worms j^ ^^^^ j.j_^ sand either, it clings to them, but beyond this merit which sand possesses it also renders the surface of the lawn firmer and faster for playing. E. were. It is not easy to assign a cause for this, i cutting. It is becoming difficult to find a man that can use a scythe with that easy swinging motion so i Some Good Hardy Annuals. — To be sown now: common in every garden 3'ears ago. The mowing Chrysanthemums in variety, Clarkia, rose and machine has done this. There is very little use | white Convolvulus major and minor. Cornflowers, for the scythe now, but, unfortunately, there is various Larkspurs, dwarf Rocket, and branching less skill in the use of the spade and other tools, j Leptosiphon densiflorus albus. These are beauti- and gardening is less neatly done than it was. ' ful for edgings and small beds : Eschscholtzia in I contend that gardening, even in its lowest ' variety, very showy, should be well thinned ; forms of labour, requires skill. There are plenty Godetia in variety makes beautiful masses. of openings for good tool men now. The Advantage of Being a Skilled Worker. — I think it was Lord Wolseley who said if he had been a fiddler he would have endeavoured to be a good fiddler, and it is worth anyone's while to make the best of the position in which he is placed. I like to see a young man strive to do his work well and take a pride in it, as that shows he is fitting himself for a better position. And it is true now — as it always was — that should be thinned to 6 inches ; Linum grandi- florum rubrum, Matthiola bicornis (Night-scented Stock), very sweet ; Nasturtiums in variety, Tom Thumb section, also bright Nemophila insignis, Nigella damascena (Love-in-a-Mist), Shirley Poppies, Sweet Sultan, charming for cutting ; miniature Sunflowers, and Virginia Stocks, good edging plants. The Value of Wood Ashes. — There are few gardeners who do not know from practical experience what a valuable product wood ashes are for horticultural purposes, and the un- fortunate thing is that we are not able to get as much of this material as we should like. It is in the spring, when outside sowing begins, that there is the greatest run on wood ashes, and when preparing beds for Onions, Carrots, Beet, and seedling greens the man may count himself fortunate who has a good supply of the above material for work- ing into the surface soil. Potash is the par- ticular plant food contained in wood ashes and in the form presented it is readily available for the crop to which the material is applied. In passing it may be observed that it is the usual custom in gardens, particularly in the autumn, to Sowing Flower Seeds in Borders and Beds. — The soil should be mellow and well broken up, everyone finds his level. I was looking at a lot ' Many flower seeds are very small, and if sown of boys at work in a school garden, and I noticed over hard ground they will fail. If the spots, one boy who handled his spade in that ambi- where hardy annuals are intended to be sown are reduce such rubbish as sticks, hedge clippings, dexterous fashion not now common, as if he had I broken early in the winter and stirred again ] Potato tops, and so on to ashes by means of fire, had years of experience. As a worker he was , early in February the ground, when the season i and a very good practice it is, particularly if care splendid, but his order of brain did not fit him comes for sowing, will be in a thoroughly is taken of the ashes. It frequently happens, for a Senior Wrangler. We are, some of us, apt j pulverised condition, and it is of no use sowing ' to look down upon a working man, but the ' till the land is in a fit condition to receive the position of the latter requires skill of a high i seeds. The best way of sowing is to draw order. Pruning Clematis Jackmanii. — This still retains its position as one of the hardiest for exposed positions or for arches, C, J, superba is deeper in colour, and, I think, is an improvement on the however, that these where the fire shallow drills with a blunt stick and cover according to size of seeds. Seedling Apricots. — The Apricot, unlike the Peach, succeeds fairly well on its own roots, and many seedlings produce good fruit. I know a type. There is also a white Jackmanii, but the | seedling Apricot tree growing against the gable --- ^ , flowers are small in comparison with Henryii, , end of a cottage— the stone of which was planted ' potash is preserved in the material, and we get are left on the surface was throughout the winter, exposed to frequent rains, which wash perhaps half or more of the potash out of the material. This is where the mistake is made, and if we want to get the best out of our wood ashes they should be collected up as soon as the stick fire has smouldered down and be put in an old tub or box and kept dry under cover till they are wanted for use. If this course is adopted, all the which is, I think, the best white, though it comes from another and less hardy race. The beauty and usefulness of the Jackmanii section is enhanced by free pruning. When they get naked at the bottom cut them down, and they will break up all the stronger. They flower on the by a daughter of the house when a little girl — \ it at its full value. Some crops more than others that made a very fine tree and bore good fruit for ' rejoice in wood ashes, and one of them is the many years ; possibly it is doing so now, though I have not seen it lately. Sow Mignonette Freely.- young wood, so that hard pruning does not spoil , formal matter. Scatter the flowering, ' " " -This need not be few seeds wherever Strawberry, Frequent discussions take place as to the best means of supplying potash to this fruit in the form of artificial manure, but wood ashes applied as a top-dressing between the plants in the winter or early spring fulfil the there is room. One likes to find the fragrance of purpose required, and they are perfectly safe ; Mignonette all over the garden, even among the indeed, if this material were more plentiful Roses, I remember a garden where we could ^ there would be no need to seek further for not get the Mignonette to grow freely, and it a suitable suppl}' of potash for Strawberries, would often die off in patches and look miserable. Wood ashes are so valuable for various purposes but by making special sites for it we ultimately i that it is wise never to miss an opportunity of succeeded. Heavy loam, with a little bone-meal obtaining as much of the material as possible. \ I have often seen trees when being lifted for transplanting with the roots gripping the little The Tamari.c as a Lawn Plant. — This makes j particles of wood ashes which were spread among a very pretty feathery group on the lawn jutting | them at the time they were originally planted, out from the shrubbery border, or as forming I and this showed that there was something in the - — part of a group of shrubs by the side of a path material which they enjoyed. Lastly, a little summer till the frost comes we must rely chiefly ■ or near the angle made where walks meet. It , wood ashes mixed with potting soil for green- upon what are generally classed as tender annuals should be pruned back more or less annually, , house and other plants is excellent, not only as a and require some help from glass. Verbenas, otherwise its habit becomes loose and straggling | means of giving porosity to the soil, but also for Petunias, Phlox Drummondi, Chinese Pinks, and is not so effective. There are several varieties, | the sake of its fertilising properties. G. H. H. Tree Lupins. — These are beautiful free-flower- ing perennials, very easy to cultivate on the herbaceous border, and may be raised from seeds. Some years ago I raised a lot of plants from seeds, and obtained both white and yellow from , , the same packet. Snow Queen is an improved and soot, appears to suit it, white. The plants make neat bushes with a little pruning immediately after flowering. A Garden of Annuals. — For forming masses on lawn beds that will continue effective all the March 4, iyo5.] THE GARDEN. 135 GARDENING OF THE WEEK, FLOWER GARDEN. PROPAGATION.— Increase Dahlias, Phloxes, and such like by sturdy cuttings rather under 3 inches long ; these strike freely in moist heat. When rooted, unless the young tops are needed for cuttings, turn into cooler quarters to make room in the propagating pit for successional batches. It is also time to put in cuttings of Early-flowering Chrysanthemums for outdoor display during late autumu, and by now most of the old plants left in the borders are producing strong sturdy suckers in abundance. These, if placed on very mild bottom-heat, will root quickly, and potted on will make good plants by the month of May ; far better, in many cases, than cuttings taken olf pot plants earlier. Divide and pot up Lobelia fulgens and varieties. Lawns.— It is now too late in the season thoroughly to renovate old lawns, for top-dressings of manure, soil, &c., will not sink down suflSciently to clear the machines, but the most mossy patches may be gone over with an iron rake to take off the rough, afterwards giving the whole a liberal dressing of a good fertiliser. We find superphos- phate of lime, four parts, and one part sulphate of ammonia, although not very powerful, grows herbage of a close tine texture on our thin poor lawns. Remember that im- poverished lawns are usually mossy and unsatisfactory, Dotwithstanding that defective drainage is often made a scapegoat. Frequently run a light Birch broom over the grass, as much to spread worm casts as for general neatness. Roll occasionally, thus preparing for the mowing that must soon follow. See that all mowing machines, scythes, and all tools connected therewith are in perfect order and readiness. Walks that are smeared and greasy must be forked over, the surface well broken up, levelled, and fresh gravel added if necessary, and rolled while wet to ensure a clear, solid, smooth, even surface, such as will afford pleasure to walk on in any weather. Other walks that are not in quite such a bad state may do with the iron rake heavily worked over them, edges trimmed, and finished up with a good rolling. During favourable weather, and before the ground gets dry and hard, apply an approved weed-killer to the whole, being careful not to spill any on the grass verges or other live edgings. Have this work carefully and well done, and it will not have to be repeated for a year. Since the use of weed destroyers has become so general it has lessened the work of the edging-iron considerably, for the turf is now kept within limits through the action of the weed-killers on the roots of the grass on the edge of walks. Keep Nymphpeas well under water, for many varieties will soon commence growing, and the tender leaves are easily injured by a slight frost or cold winds. Th£ Gardens, Tan-y-btvlch. J. Roberts. INDOOR GARDEN. Zonal Pelargoniums— During the autumn and winter months the brilliant colours of the flowers of these have few, if any, equals. New varieties are ever on the increase. Many of the newer ones are a great improve- ment, both in form and size of flower. Now is a suitable time for rooting cuttings in a light, sandy soil. Insert three or four cuttings in a 3-inch pot. Place them in a warm house near the glass. When rooted pot off singly and place in a warm, airy house where the plants can get plenty of light. For the final shift avoid overpotting, as when somewhat pot-bound they flower much better. During July and August they may be stood outside. If grown for cut flowers a large percentage of the plants grown should be double varieties, as these last much better. A few of the scented-leaved section should also be grown. The foliage of the Oak-leaved varieties will be found very useful for cutting to arrange with the flowers of the zonals. Forced Shrubs.— As these pass out of flower place in a house with a temperature of about 55° to 60° to make their growth. Many will require pruning back, but not so hard as if growing in the open air. Pick off all old flowers and seed vessels, taking care not to injure the young growing shoots, ilepot those which require it, taking care not to overpot. A compost of fibrous loam and a little well-decayed manure will suit such things as Prunus and Pyrus. For Azaleas use a compost of at least two- thirds peat. Syringe morning and afternoon, or even oftener, on bright days. Take care after repotting not to allow the old soil to become dry. Give weak manure water to those not potted. Shading will be necessary for the newly-potted plants if the sun is very powerful. Flowering plants also last longer if shaded for a few hours the brightest part of the day. General Remarks.— Encourage growth on Hippe- astrums as they go out of flower. Give weak liquid manure occasionally. Remove Carnations when rooted from the propagating frame and place in an intermediate house. Pot into 3-inch pots in about a fortnight. Use a mixture of fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and saud. Leave in the same temperature till rooted in the new soil, then gradually give cooler treatment. Start the principal batch of tuberous-rooted Begonias in shallow boxes filled with leaf- soil and sand. Half bury the tubers in this compost. Pot up as soon as the growth is 2 inches or 3 inches in length and place in a light position. Keep a good number back for flowering in August and September if the young seedlings are not well advanced. These are the monihs when greenhouse flowers are often scarce. Pot off Salvia splendens cuttings when rooted. Stop several times to encourage sturdy growth. Insert a few cuttings from now till April for succession, and during May and June for plants in small pots. Pot on Humea elegans, using a rich soil in which a little charcoal should be mixed. Careful watering is necessary at all times, but more especially when newly potted. The earlier Cannas are now ready for 6-inch pots. Unless large specimens are required or more stock is needed remove all suckers as they appear. Mcyal Botanic Gardens, Kew. A, Osborn. ORCHIDS. Shading the Houses.— It is now quite time to get the blinds or shadings on the houses containing these plants, so that they may be ready for use at any moment. Although the sun may not shine for more than three or four hours during the day, still, even at the beginning of this montli it is often so powerful as to do serious harm if allowed to shine directly on the plants, especially in the case of Aerides, Saccolabiuras, and Angrsecums that have recently been repotted or top-dressed, also of young seedling Orchidsof all kinds. In theOdontoglossum and Masdevallia houses, especially span-roofed and lean-to houses with a southern aspect, in which the temperature under the sun's influence will be rising higher than is good for these plants, shading should be used immediately the sun's rays are upon the houses. One of the conditions of a suitable kind of shading is that it combines sufficient light for the plants without direct hot sunshine, and to meet this requirement during the early spring months we stipple the glass outside with a mixture of ordinary house flour and water. Use it like very thin paint, and put it on the glass as thinly as possible, using an ordinary paint brush. Before using this mixture see that the glass outside is perfectly clean and dry. The best time to stipple the glass is when the sun is warm and bright, so that the mixture dries on quickly; it will not then wash off when ordinary rains occur. An equable warmth is maintained in the houses, and this is very noticeable in spring, when the fluctuations outside are considerable. The plants also receive more natural heat from the sun than when blinds are employed. By having the glass stippled in this way the blinds, even during the hottest months of the year, need not be let down nearly so early in the morning as usual, and may be drawn up several hours earlier each afternoon. The weather last summer afforded a capital test for this kind of shading, and the results were satisfactory so far as the majority of the Orchids at Burford were concerned, especially Dendrobiums, Cattleyas, L:elias, Cypripediums, and Odontoglossums. By the autumn the whitening on the glass becomes worn and thin, thereby gradually allow- ing more sunlight to reach the plants ; thus the growths become better matured than formerly, consequently they will pass through a foggy and sunless winter admirably. In the Odontoglossum and other cool houses, where lattice- wood blinds are used, and where they are elevated about 6 inches or 8 inches above the glass, this kind of shading is very beneficial. The Mexican house, if it be properly attended to as regards damping down and ventilation, will need no shading for the present, but the glass should be thinly stippled as soon as the sun gets really powerful. The blinds on the East Indian, Cattleya, Dendrobiura, and Mexican houses should, when they are let down, touch the rouf, as a maximum of sun-heat is the thing required for the plants in these compartments during the growing season. Gradually increase the ventilation in each house whenever the air is calm and mild; it is also well to remember that the warmer-growing Orchids do not appreciate large volumes of friesh air at this season. Burford Gardeiis, Dorking. W. H. White. KITCHEN GARDEN. Rotation of Crops.— The system of rotation cropping is generally practised in large gardens, but it is to be feared in small ones, through want of space (and other circum- stances), this feature of good management is frequently overlooked. It is, however, quite possible, even in gardens of small dimensions, to arrange for a periodical change of crops, but there must be method in the arrangement, and for this reason it is advisable to draw a plan of the garden, numbering the plots, and keeping careful record of the crops grown on each, also how they have been manured and trenched. In this way practicable rotation may be arrived at. It will be found best when chanjging crops never to allow those of the same natural order to succeed each other ; for instance, Cauliflower should not succeed Cabbage, nor Carrots succeed Parsnips. Root crops should, wherever possible, follow the Brassica family, and vice versd. I have found in cropping the kitchen garden that it is a good plan to allot a given space for root crops, such as Potatoes, Beet, Carrots, Parsnips, &c., allotting a like portion for leguminous, Brassica, and salad crops. Avoid the mixing of summer and early autumn vegetables with late autumn and winter varieties, such as Leeks, Parsnips, &c. By this arrangement a large part of the ground is early cleared, and can be prepared for future crops without interruption. Peas. — As soon as ground and weather permit, at least three different varieties of Peas should be sown. Sutton's Marrowfat is a good first ; for a second Gradus is a reliable sort, and of excellent flavour; for the third in rotation I can confidently recommend Sutton's Maincrop Marrowfat, both for its prolific cropping and good cooking qualities. Drills should be drawn out 6 feet or 7 feet apart; in the early part of the day and the Peas sown in the afternoon, using less seed than was the case with the earlier sowing. Leave ample room between the rows. When staking time arrives other crops will occupy the spaces between. Broad Beans.- The main crop of these may now be sown on nn open break 3 feet from row to row, and from 4 inches to 0 inches between the seeds. Favourite varieties are Green Windsor and Sutton's Mammoth Longpod. , , -J . Potatoes. -Tubers which were selected and laid in boxes to sprout, as directed in a former calendar, are now ready for planting in pots at the foot of a garden wall or on a warm border. For the earliest young Potatoes drain some 10-inch pots, place a handful ortwo of decayed leaves over the crocks, and half fill with light fresh loam ; then plant the tuber in the centre of the pot and cover with loam to within 1:^ inches of the top. Let them be grown in a temperature" of between 60° and 70«. To have young Potatoes to succeed those grown in pots, every year I plant a few at the foot of a wall with a southern exposure. Tubers raised thus are safe from late frosts, and will be quite a fortnight earlier than those grown on an open border. On the open border plant in rows 2 feet apart, and 10 inches or 12 inches from set to set. J. JEFFREY, The Gardem, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. FRUIT GARDEN. Newly Planted Trees.— February (the proverbial wet month of the year) has been very contrary to tradition this year in the matter of rainfall. Here this is consider- ably below the average, and it has already been found necessary to water trees which were shifted last autumn. It is very important that fresh-planted trees should not suffer from lack of moisture at the roots, and it will be well to examine those recently shifted ; if the soil is at all approaching dryness a thorough watering should be given. Another point often overlooked is mulching. If this is not already done no time should be lost, or the roots near the surface will be in danger of perishing before growth begins. Cleaning Fruit Trees.— As soon as pruning and training are finished attention should be paid to cleaning the trees. American blight is responsible for a great deal of damage to fruit trees, and if allowed to get established (especially on young trees) there is a danger of the injury being permanent. Kemove all loose pieces of bark, moss, and lichen from trees which are affected, as these serve as hiding places for the insects. Then thoroughly scrub the stems with a stiff brush, using a strong mixture of soft soap and lime water. Before Peach trees come into flower they may be syringed with a solution of soft soap and sulphur; this will ward off the attacks of aphis, which usually appear very early in the season, and if allowed to get a footing are very difficult to dis- lodge. , ,. .. Early Peaches under Glass.— The fruits in the earliest house are now swelling freely, and it is safe to increase the temperature at night to 60", unless the weather is very cold, when 5^ less are sufficient. Disbudding should be done at intervals of a few days, eventually leaving one shoot at the base and point of the fruiting wood, except where it is desirable to encourage young wood for the subsequent removal of old and bare branches. See that the trees do not suffer for want of water, and, in the case of old trees which are in full bearing, plenty of stimulant may be given. The syringe must be freely used on fine days or red spider will be troublesome. If the trees are attacked by this pest syringe with a solution of quassia and sulphur on two or three successive days. Trees in late houses, which it is desirable to retard as long as possible, sh-^uld not be allowed to get dry at the roots or bud dropping will be the result. They may also be syringed on fine days. Fumigate the house before the trees come into flower. If cold, cutting winds prevail close the front ventilators. This is often ^the cause of much damage to the blossom. F. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. M SPKING SALADS. ANY are deploring the loss of the winter salad crops unless they can give glass protection, and even then there are losses, as the fogs we experienced in December and January played sad havoc with the Lettuce. At this date it is useless to dwell upon our losses, and those who require salads in quantity are obliged to adopt measures that will give good cutting material in the shortest possible time. Now a good salad should consist of a liberal proportion of Lettuce, which is the first to feel the effect of our erratic climate. Endive is plentiful, but it cannot entirely take the place of Lettuce. Chicory many persons object to, owing to its bitter taste. To provide a daily supply for the salad-bowl is by no means difficult. To get nice plants with good hearts is another matter, but these are not much in request till later on in the spring and during the summer. Although my note chiefly refers to the supply during the early part of the year, I may add that THE GARDEN. [March 4, 1905 by sowing now in heat euch kinds as Golden Ball, Commodore Nutt, or Dickson and Robinson's Little Gem, growing these on a slight hot-bed in frames from the start, good Lettuces may be had in three months from date of sowing, and these will be most valuable to form a succession to the earlier supply. Of late years more atten- tion has been paid to what may be termed forcing vegetables and salads, of which Lettuce forms an important item. We now have some splendid forcing sorts besides those I have named, such as Veitch's Golden Queen, one of the most valuable frame Lettuces grown, not quite so early to heart as Commodore Nutt, but a superior Lettuce ; it keeps sound longer, and is a good colour. Another fine forcing Lettuce is Sutton's Little Gem. I am not fond of the Cos varieties for forcing purposes ; this, however, is scarcely a true Cos, but inter- mediate between the two, valuable for its small hard hearts, with splendid flavour, and a valuable plant for exposed situations. I have digressed somewhat, but salads in the spring are popular. I now come to the supply to make up the deficiency at this date from losses or other causes. Where there are heated pits or houses it is an easy matter to get good cutting Lettuce for the salad bowl. Our method is to sow very thinly in boxes, much the same as one would sow Mustard and Cress, but much more thinly ; the seed is only very lightly covered with soil, over this a sheet of glass is placed, and the boxes are put in a tempera- ture of 55° to 60°. We place ours over the hot-water pipes, and the seeds are through in a few days ; then they are placed near the light and grown on. Careful watering is needed to prevent damping in dull weather. The plants are cut over like Mustard and Cress when 4 inches high, and a sowing is made every week. There is no lack of sweet tender leaves for the salad bowl. Of course it is necessary to grow a forcing variety, not the very dwarf kinds, but those of quick growth, and which have a light colour. If a deep green is pre- ferred, such as Perfect Gem and Golden iiall give variety. The plants like a light, warm position, free from drip, and the boxes should be well drained. As each lot is cut remove the top soil and add new, making it firm. As will be seen, the work is most simple ; at the same time it gives a reliable daily suppl}', and at a small cost ; indeed, during the last few seasons in heavy soils or exposed situations I do not think it has paid to sow in the autumn ; there have been so many failures. By growing in boxes now and later on in frames, the demand will be met, with less difficulties to contend with. G. Wythes. WORKERS AMONG THE FLOWERS. Mr. JOHN SEDEN, V.M.H. F^OR more than forty-three years Mr. John Seden has been connected with ^ the firm of Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, and during that time has probably produced more new plants and fruits than any other horticulturist. Now that Mr. Seden's retirement, on a pension, is announced we may fittingly recall some of his unique experiences. It is perhaps among Orchids that Mr. Seden's work has been chiefly carried on, and one has only to think of the many displays of beautiful hybrid Orchids made by the Chelsea firm to recognise how wonderfully he has enriched the collections of Orchid growers and lovers. It was in 1873 that Mr. Seden's first hybrid Orchid (Cypripedium Sedeni) flowered, and since then, we learn from the Gardeners' Chronicle, Mr. Seden has to his credit as a raiser I the following remarkable list of Orchids : 150 IKISH AND SCOTCH POTATOES. Having regard to the high reputation Scotch- grown Potatoes have obtainedforcropping capa- cities when planted in the South of England, a well-known Irish grower, anxious for the fair fame of the Pjmerald Isle, has expressed a a^rong desire that some Irish-grown seed tubers may be planted, in conjunction with those of Scotch growth, in England, of similar varieties, some of English growth being grown also. Such a trial should have much value for English growers, and if it be proved that Ireland gives to tubers for seed purposes the same robust cropping qualities Scotland gives to her Potatoes, then will English growers have two strings to their bows. I have already made arrangements for two such trials, one in Surrey and one at Reading, and I hope a third may be conducted at Wisley. I look to be able to plant — Up-to-Date, for instance — tubers of Home, Irish, Scotch, Cheshire, and Hampshire growth. Our trials have in the past been too much restricted to the testing of new varie- ties. There are many other matters worth testing. A. D. Rothschild, and others, as well as several Crab Apples. The Langley Bullace, Damson Farleigh Prolific, numerous fine Gooseberries and Rasp- berries, and The Mahdi, the result of a cross between the Blackberry and the Raspberry, are other fruits that bear witness to the painstaking and properly directed efforts of this famous hybridist. We will not detail how, largely through Mr. Seden's early effort?, some of the finest strains of Gloxinias and Begonias have been obtained, and other valuable exotic plants given to the cultivator. It is probably true that no man has enriohed our gardens with new flowers and fruits to such an extent as Mr. Seden. He was one of the original sixty chosen to receive the Victoria Medal of Honour by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1S97. HOW TO MAKE AND YEW HEDGES. KEEP MR. JOHN SEDEN, V.M.H. Cypripediums, 140 Lselio-Cattleyas, 0.5 Cattleyas, 40 Dendrobiums, 23 La^lias, 16 Phalrenopsis, 20 Epidendrums, 12 Masdevallias, 9 Calanthes, 8 Sophro-Cattleyas, 5 Phaio-Calanthes, 6 Disas, 4 Zygopetalums, and other hybrid Orchids. Mr. Seden, however, has not restricted his efforts to the Orchid family, but he has also raised many new and meritorious fruits, Roses, and greenhouse flowers. Among Roses are Queen Alexandra (Crimson Rambler X multiflora sim- plex), Electra (multiflora simplex X W. A. Richardson), and Myra (wichuraiana X Crimson Rambler). The fruits raised by Mr. Seden are too numerous to mention fully. To give some idea of the valuable results he has obtained in this direction, we might mention among Strawberries, Veitch's Perfection, Veitch's Prolific, The Alake, The Khedive, and Lord Kitchener. Of Apples we have Langley Pippin, Middle Green, the Rev. W. Wilks, Mr. Leopold [Continued.) Care of the Hedge. — Keeping a Yew hedge in good condition is not difiicult if it is clipped and attended to regularly ; this should be at least once a j'ear. After the hedge is planted it will not require clipping until the second year, though any long shoots that stand out beyond the line of the hedge may be cut away at the time of planting. May is the best month for clipping, though a second light trimming over may be given in Sep- tember if the plants are growing freely and making strong shoots. Autumn pruning, however, should be very light, consisting more of the removal of any strong shoots that have appeared since the hedge was cut in the spring than a regular clipping all over. A Yew hedge up to about 6 feet in height should be cut square at the sides and flat on the top, but above that height the sides should slope inwards so that the top is only about half the width of the base. With high hedges cut square it has been found that the top grows at the expense of the base, the latter in time becoming thin, weak, and unsightly. A narrow-topped hedge, also, does not favour the accumulation of snow, though the Yew does not get broken about by snow so much as some other plants do when used for hedges. Xeglected hedges. — If a Yew hedge has been neglected for some years and becomes broad and irregular, with bad places in it here and there, it can be brought into shape again by a thorough overhauling and feeding. In the first place, it should be cut hard back in late spring just as growth commences, taking care, however, not to go back too hard, as the Yew does not break freely from very old wood. It should also be lowered to half its former height ; this is most im- portant, as if not cut down the lower part of the hedge will not become properly furnished. At the same time a shallow trench should be dug along each side about 3 feet from the stems, and filled up with a mixture of good turfy loam and well-rotted manure in about equal parts. This is also a good way of renewing a hedge which shows signs of weakness or starvation, the Yew being a gross feeder and requiring a little help occasionally, even in good ground. The two main points, however, in making and keeping a Yew hedge are to prepare the ground thoroughly in the first instance and to give the hedge regular and proper attention afterwards. It is to be hoped that the remarks made on the proper upkeep of Yew hedges will be useful. A Yew hedge when kept properly trimmed is a beautiful feature, but through a want of knowledge as to its management it is allowed to get bare and unkempt, and it is then very difficult to restore its vigour. J. Clark. March 4, 1905.] THE GAKDEN. 137 TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Ans^rers.— The Mditar intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter ivhat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly and co7icisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London, Letters on biisi- ness should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Names of Plants. — W. J. Waterhouse. — A, Thuya dolabrata var. variegata ; B, Cupressus sempervirens var. ; C, Cedrus atlantica ; D, Cryptomeria japonica var. elegans ; E, Cupressus pisifera var. squarrosa ; F, C. lawsoniana ; G. (J. pisifera var. plumosa aurea ; H, C. lawsoniana var. glauca ; I, C. lawsoniana var. ; J, Berberis nepalensis (B. japonica) ; K, specimen too withered to identify. Your question re Coniferae has been noted, and we hope to deal with the subject at an early date. J. M. W. — Owing to the extreme variability of Croton leaves, even on the same plant, it is impossible to name them with absolute certainty, but as far as we can judge the names of those sent are as follows : l,Williamsii ; 2, Hookeri ; 3, evansianus ; 4, variegatum ; 5, Queen Victoria ; 6, Heroicus ; 7, Etna ; 8, varie- gatum ; 9, Weismanni ; 10, Countess ; 11, Mrs. loeton ; 12, we cannot find a variety with a leaf like your No. 12, and can only suggest it may be a seedling which has not been named. T. J. M. — 1, Lueulia gratissima ; 2, Winter Sweet(Chimonanthu3fragran8); 3,DaniEaLaurus, better known as Ruscus racemosus (Alexandrian Laurel). List op Ferns (A. B.). — Adiantum cuneatura, A. c. gracillimum, A. c. Pacotti, A. decorum. A- scutum, A. formosum, A. pedatum, A. reniforme, and A. Capillus-Veneris. Trimming Evergreens (M. A. E.). — Spring is the best time. Yes, trim the Ivy fairly close to the wall. Bones and Bonemeal (An Amateur). — We think Martin's Bone Cutters would suit you, to be obtained from 199a, Bishopsgate Street Without, London. Parsnips and Carrots {H. O. T.). — Before using the manure turn it over well and mix some lime with it to clear out the worms. They would not injure the Carrots and Parsnips, however. Take care there are no wireworms in the soil ; these would be very destructive. Planting Liliums (Norold). — Early autumn is the best time ; you may, however, plant them now, the sooner the better. A moderately moist peaty soil is what L. auratum likes. L. auratum is a very difficult Lily to keep for more than about three years. It generally gradually dwindles away. If your soil is not water-logged, and you mix some peat and sand with it, it ought to suit the plant. Gumming in Plum Tree (Orleans). — If your Plum Tree is very badly gummed, the best thing to do would be to cut off the affected branches and burn them, afterwards carefully coating the out surfaces. If the branches are not badly diseased , the best thing to do is to wash the bark frequently in damp weather with a brush and water ; it is, however, difficult to cure if the tree is badly affected. Manuring the tree would be more likely to increase than to decrease the gumming, for the latter most frequently occurs when the soil is richly manured and growth is consequently too luxurious. Lifting, root-pruning, and planting in poorer soil is recommended to check gumming. Judicious pruning of the growths in summer, so as to ensure the production of moderately strong shoots instead of gross unfruitful ones which have to be removed. The unhealthy state of the tree probably accounts for the fruits cracking. Plants for RocKERT(iV. A. 5.).— TryArabis albida, Alyssum saxatile, Aubriblia dcltoidea, Cerastum tomentosura (silvery foliage), Alpine Pinks, Armeria (Thrift), Helianthemum (Bock Rose), Iperis, Campanula garganica, C. muralis, Alpine Wallflower, Androsace sarmentosa. Ane- mone robinsoniana. Genista prostrata (shrub), Linaria alpina (Alpine Toadflax), and Myosotis alpestris (Alpine Forget-me-not). Of commoner things, Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia Nummularia) Saxif raga umbrosa. Periwinkle (minor), and Sedum acre (Stonecrop). Sweet Peas (W. E. Stafford).— Keep your clumps of Sweet Peas to one colour ; do not buy mixed packets. You can then arrange the colours as you please. The following are good : Dorothy Eckford (white). Lady Grizel Hamilton (pale blue). Captain of the Blues (blue), Hon. Mrs. Kenyon (pale yellow), Gladys Unwin (pink), Salopian (crimson), Othello (maroon), Mrs. W. P. Wright (purple), and Scarlet Gem. You might have them in this order : White, pale blue, blue, purple, yellow, pink, scarlet, crimson, maroon. Consult a Sweet Pea grower. Several advertise in our pages. QuiCK-GROwiNGHBDGE(i7od(/es).— If you prefer an evergreen plant Arbor vitse (Thuja occiden- talis). You can obtain big plants cheaply that would make a good screen at once. Privet and the Myrobalan Plum are two good quick-growing hedge plants ; both lose their leaves in winter. The Quick Thorn, mixed with the Privet, strengthens the Privet, which is apt to be lanky when it grows as high as you want it. You would probably find the Privet hedge moat satisfactory for your district. Plant in good soil, mulch with manure, and water well in summer. Azalea indica (Norold). — After flowering place your Azaleas in a house of the temperature of about 60". Close the house early in the after- noon so as to warm it still more by sun- heat. Syringe the plants a good deal every day, especially when you close the house. You must, by giving them a close moist atmosphere, en- courage thera to make good growth. By the end of Ma}' give them a cooler temperature, and finally place them out of doors altogether during summer. Put them in a frost-proof house in the autumn. To get good buds you must first have good growths. Water well during summer, and give manure-water occasionally. Begonia Culture (Delta). —As the plants show signs of exhaustion after flowering, keep them rather dryer at the roots in a house of the minimum temperature of 55°. As the days lengthen a warmer temperature of 60" to 65" is belter ; in this the plants, which must be shortened back previously, will push forth young shoots from the base. These may be taken off and inserted as cuttings. They form the only suitable cuttings ; shoots from the flowering stems are useless. When rooted take out of the propagating case into a cooler temperature, say, of 65°. Pot into 3-ineh pots in a soil of loam and leaf-soil, and some sand. When well rooted pot them into 5-inch pots, and there they will flower next autumn and winter. A minimum temperature of 55° is essential. If you do not want to root cuttings leave the young shoots to grow cutting the old stems to within a few inches of the soil. Take care not to cut off any young shoots at the base. When the young shoots are an inch or so long, turn the plant out of the pot, shake away a good deal of the old soil, and repot in soil com- posed of two parts loam, one of leaf-soil, and one decayed manure, with some sand intermixed. Give them a minimum temperature of 50" throughout the summer, and attend carefully to watering ; in autumn the temperature must be at least 55°. Give weak manure water when the pots are full of roots. Bedding Plants (T. Hunter). — The plants you mention are easily propagated by means of seeds in a warm house. Sow the Cineraria and the Centaurea under glass, and the Beetroot may be sown out of doors. Write to Mr. W. Watson, Royal Gardens, Kew, for information about the British Gardeners' Association. Climbers for Shade (George Bell). — Ivy, Ampelopsia Veitchii, Forsythia suspensa. Clematis montana, Dutch Honeysuckle, Ceano- thus veitchianus, Jasminum nudiflorum, Cratae- gus Pyraoantha, Polygonum baldschuanicum ; any of these ought to give you satisfaction. You might also try some of the stronger growing Roses, although you could not get very much flower from them if the shade is dense. Long- worth Rambler[would probably do as well as any. Ferns (S. F. E.). — In the greenhouse plant Adiantum Capillus - veneris, Aaplenium bulbi- ferum, Pteris argyraea, P. cretiua, P. c. albo- lineata, P. c. Mayi, P. serrulata, P. tremula, P. t. Smithiana, Nephrodiuni moUe, Osmunda palustris, and Polypodium aureum. In the stove plant Davallia bullata, Microlepia hirta cristata, Nephrolepis Bausei, N. exaltata, Pteris umbrosa, P. tricolor, Adiantum Bausei, A. lunulatum, and A. tinctum. Plant Selaginella kraussiana and S. Martensi. Effective Shrub (C. H. F.).—li you plant a Rhododendron j'ou must give it a good peaty, well-drained soil in which to grow ; this is the most necessary as your soil is clayey. Take out the clay and replace with peat and loam in equal proportions, and put broken bricks on the bottom for drainage. Michael Waterer (bright red) or Sapho (white with black blotches) are very good. Why not plant a Laburnum, Lilac, Pyrus Malus floribunda, or Amelanchier canadensis ? The two latter are beautiful spring-flowering shrubs. You should certainly take out some of the clay, drain, and replace with good soil. Vine Roots Dying (F. B). — We can find nothing in the soil to account for the roots dying. We notice that the soil seems very loose and that the roots have little fibre. You send surface soil ; perhaps deeper the soil is sour and water- logged, and the roots have got into this. We think the best thing you can do is to lift the vines and replant in good turfy loam, taking care to keep the roots a few inches below the surface. Make sure the drainage is good. Have you been careful with watering and with the use of artificial manures ? We are inclined to at- tribute the damage to too much of the latter, so far as we are able to tell from the particulars you furnish, or to the roots having got into sour soil. Their absence of fibre supports the latter theory, and the fact of their dying the former. If we can help you further write again. Amaryllis Belladonna (N. L. K. P.). — Your pots of Amaryllis Belladonna now in full leaf must be encouraged to make good free growth, as upon this the future display of flowers depends. They must be kept well supplied with water, fortnightly doses of liquid manure being also beneficial. This attention is necessary till the leaves show signs of going to rest by turning yellow, when the water supply must be lessened, and when they are totally dormant discontinued altogether. This will probably be about mid- summer or even earlier, when the pots should be stood in a position fully exposed to the sun, so that the bulbs get a thorough ripening. Then, by the middle of August they must be again watered, when if they contain embryo blossoms the flower-spikes will soon make their appearance, followed after a time by the leaves which grow throughout the winter and spring. 138 THE GARDEN, [March 4, 1905- Violet Plants Unhealthy (5.).— The Violet, perhaps more than any other plant, resents a close and unhealthy atmosphere for any length of time, and suffers injury in conse- quence, especially the more tender section of the plants, to which the variety Marie Louise belongs. That the cause of failure is not to be found in the roots is evident from their healthy and robust condition. We are inclined to think with you that the cause is to be found in the substitution of the close-textured old carpet for protection in hard weather instead of Fir branches as previously. The latter would admit more or less air, while the latter, by its density, would seal the frame completely, and so help to stifle the plants. Ferns ix Case (.4. E. F.).— If you keep the wood well painted it ought to last fairly well. Of course, if the case is constantly moist the wood will decay more quickly than if the atmosphere were dry. You will do wrong, however, to keep it in a state of constant moisture, especially as it is unheated. The soil will get sodden, and the plants soon suffer in health. You had better jrow all the plants in pots. Grow Adiantum cuneatum, Pteris tremula, P. serrulata oristata, P. cretica albo-lineata, Asplenium bulbiferum Fuchsias, Begonias, or zonal Pelargoniums (Geraniums) would suit you best. TiJLiP Tree (M. E. Hughes).— Cat out all dead wood, and cut back the ends of the branches when they are dead. If the branches are very crowded it would be advisable to remove some of them. It is ditfiault to do very much to resuscitate a very old tree like yours that is apparently suffering from old age. The best thing for the roots would be to give a top- dressing of rich soil (soil with plenty of farm- yard manure incorporated) over the area of the spead of branches. Remove the present soil several inches deep, until, in fact, good roots are found, then, having taken off the worn-out soil, fill up the space with new. This may be done any time now if the weather is mild. During summer copious supplies of water should be given in dry weather. A mulch of littery nunure, placed on the ground as far as the branches e.xtend, in May, and left there during summer, would be of help in keeping the roots moist. The roots of the old tree may have suffered from want of water. Mulching, watering, and giving new soil will restore it to health if it is not too old and worn out. How TO Start a Flower Show {F. W. H.).— You ask us to give you a few hints on the best way to start a small flower show, also the best way to set about it. Much depends upon what your object is. Do you want to encourage only the cottagers and amateurs in your neighbour- hood, or do you wish to embrace all sections and bring in the professional gardener ? If you wish to make an attractive exhibition, you should make it representative of all classes. Ways and means are essential considerations, and before anything else can be done you should invite to meet you those likely to support such a venture, both financially and as exhibitors. A small committee should be appointed, together with a secretary, treasurer, chairman, and president, beginning by electing the chief officers first of all. It is well to appoint a collector, whose duty it should be to obtain subscribers and collect subscriptions from those who promise their financial help. The committee at their first meeting should draft a set of rules to meet the needs of such a society, also a set of regulations to govern the exhibition and ex- hibitors. No hard and fast rule in this particular can be laid down, the needs peculiar to the society and its objects being speciall}' provided for by those who determine to control its functions. The period of the year in which the show is to be held will largely determine the subjects that are to be considered for in the exhibition. For a small local show, late July or some time during August is a suitable period. In the gardener's section, classes respectively for flowering and foliage plants, both individual specimens and groups of a given number should be provided for. Specially arranged groups of plants of a miscellaneous character should appear in the same section. Gut flowers, both hardy and stove and greenhouse kinds, should each receive attention, and also fruits of a seasonable kind, and Grapes also. In the bond fide amateur and cottager's classes, cut flowers, bush fruits, vegetables, both single dishes and collections calculated to meet the capabilities of these classes of exhibitors, usually receive hearty support, and make a most interesting show. Wc think a flower show alone is better than a joint show of flowers and poultry. The cost largely depends upon the number of prizes you offer ; but you may lessen your liabilities by asking some of your more wealthy friends, and those, too, who are interested in such a venture, to promise special prizes for some of the subjects you or your committee may determine to make classes for. Improving Lawn (G. E. 0.).— We should advise you to stimulate the growth of the grass by passing the rake over it vigorously. This will make the lawn look very rough for a time, but it will be all the better afterwards. After the raking you must mix some manure (prefer- ably a special lawn manure obtainable from seeds- men), with rich sifted soil and spread it over the lawn. A cartload of soil with |cwt. of manure would make a good top-dressing. Mix the soil and manure a fortnight before applying it, and turn it so as thoroughly and evenly to mix the manure with the soil. Then spread the manure evenly over the grass, rake it over lightly, and roll it after three or four days. On the bare patches sow some grass seeds at the rate of a bushel per acre. Rake the seeds in, covering as many as possible. Do not sow when the grass is wet or many seeds will be wasted. This work should be done in early March. Planting Small Garden (IF. Thornton).— We would suggest that you make a border 7 feet wide, with a grass edge 2 feet wide between it and the path ; this will exhaust the space at your disposal. Before planting anything dig the soil thoroughly, say, 18 inches deep, and add some manure to it, unless, of course, it has recently been dug. We can only give you a general idea of what to plant here ; you may obtain some help from the coloured plate of a mixed border given with The Garden for February 4. You should try to make a general arrangement so that the colours beginningat one end follow like this — white, blue, yellow, orange, red, yellow, blue, and white. Have the plants in groups, according to our suggestion. Here are eight groups of colour that would give, roughly, 4 feet to each colour. Of white flowers, plant Lilium candidum, Jipanese Anemone, white Hollyhock, Sweet P^a Dorothy Eckford, Lupin, Galega, Stock, and Campanula; of blue plants. Delphiniums, Aeonitum, Galega, Nemophila (annual). Sweet Peas, Nigella (annual), and Eryngium ; of yellow, Coreopsis, Sweet Pea Hon. Mrs. Kenyon, Hollyhocks, Mtrigolds, Sunflowers (small flowered), and evening Prim- rose ; orange, Liliums umbellatum, croceum. Nasturtium, Marigold, and Tiger Lily ; red. Lobelia cardinalis, L. fulgens. Sweet Peas, Linum grandiflorum rubrum, Pentstemons, Poppies, Phloxes, Lychnis, and Hollyhocks. These are good plants, although there are many others. Only experience will teach you how to make a good mixed border. Peaches and Nectarines (/. T. D.).—in a short answer it is not possible to give you full cultural directions for the Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot. Probably "The Book of the Peach," by H. W. Ward, would help you. "TheFruitGard.-n" (Newnes, 2Is.) gives complete directions. Plant the trees against either a south or west wall. Dig and manure the soil before doing so ; drain with broken bricks if necessary. If the Peach trees are formed, as they will be if purchased from a reliable nurseryman, the important point to remember is that the flowers, and therefore fruits, are borne on shoots made the previous year. Thus fruit in 190.5 will be produced on shoots made in 1904. When the shoots have fruited they must be cut out and others at their base trained in to fruit the following year. (See The Garden, February 11, for article on this subject, illustrated). Protect the trees with canvas or netting when in bloom. Water well during dry weather in summer. Plant the Apricot against a west wall rather than a south. Do not give them much manure, and prune the branches very little. They are liable to die off. The fruits are produced on spurs which form naturally. Protect while in bloom. These remarks refer to outdoor culture. It is not advisable to grow the Apricot under glass except in quite a cool house. Beds near House {Lancaster). — Begonia La- fayette or Worthiana would suit your purpose. Yes, Fuchsias would do ; plant light varieties, not the purple ones. Abutilon or Acalypha or Grevillea might be planted among the Fuchsias ; they have handsome foliage. Plant the Fuchsias 15 inches and the Begonias about 12 inches apart. DENDROBinM NOBILE (C. T.). — The two plants should now be introduced into a little more heat, which will help to swell up the flower- buds and induce a stronger development of flowers (50" minimum to 60'' maximum), without sun-heat, and, of course, a few degrees higher with sunshine. The plants should not be re- potted until they are out of flower and the young bulb growth commences to move, which should be in about a month's time. As regards potting on or dividing, this will depend on whether smaller or larger plants will suit your purpo-se best. If the latter, the specimens should be shifted into 10-inch pots or pans, in which they will make fine specimens in the course of a few years. It might answer your purpose to break one plant up into smaller pieces and pot on the other one. The compost for this Orchid is one pan fibrous Orchid peat broken into lumps the iize of a Walnut (free from small and loose peat), two parts best live sphagnum moss cut up small, one part of charcoal, and clean crocks. The charcoal should be in half inch to one inch lumps, the crocks in quarter inch, and the whole well mixed together. Ample ilrainage must be provided, filling the pot one third its depth with crocks. The crown of the plant when potting is completed should be slightly higher than the rim of the pot, and the potting should be firm. Hollies from Seed (R. G. B.). — To grow Hollies from seed the berries should be gathered in November, mixed with damp sand, put in a heap outdoors, and covered with a few turves. The heap should be put in a conspicuous place where it will not be destroyed, but it need not he sheltered from the weather, as rain and frost both assist in the dessication of the fruit. About the middle or end of the following April prepare a bed of fine soil in the open, preferably in a moderately damp spot, and fully open to the sun. The heap of berries and sand should be rubbed through a sieve with meshes sufficiently large to pass the seeds, taking care they are all separated from each other, and then sown evenly over the bed, covering them about a quarter of an inch deep with fine soil. The bed should then be covered with Bracken, Heather, straw, or canvas, the latter for preference, as it is removed more easily for weeding the bed. A few seeds may ijerminate the first year, but the majority will not appear until the second summer, and a few will not come up until the third year. The seedlings will rrquire transplanting when they are ,3 inches Lo 4 inches high, and should be moved annually for I he next two or three years. It is a slow process to grow Hollies from seed, but it is very in- teresting to those who can spare time to do it. March 4, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 139 GRKENHOtfSB PLANTS IN Pans (Doctors' Com- mon).— There is nothing gained by placing the plants in water at this season of the year, when they are not in vigorous growth. In summer, the Arums, Spiraeas, Palms, and Azaleas would benefit by being placed in pans of water, for the roots of all these require a good deal of water. If these were placed in pans of water, as you suggest, there would be no danger of the roots becoming dry, a condition that is, of course, injurious. Do not adopt this method until later in the season, for there is little danger now of the roots of your pot plants drying so quickly as to prevent your attending to them properly. Eradicating Beaneine {J. S. Birch).— One of the most troublesome of all weeds to deal with, owing to the fact that the roots or underground stems penetrate so deeply into the soil, and if broken into pieces every little bit will continue to grow. The only way to get rid of it is by persistently forking over the ground, and picking out every bit which can be seen, even to the tiniest scrap. The more thoroughly this is done the more likely you are to be satisfied with the results. If you cannot disturb the soil during the summer for fear of interfering with other plants that may be in the ground, every bit of the weed should be pulled out as soon as it appears above the surface, as this will help to weaken the underground portion. Then, in autumn thoroughly overhaul it again and burn every bit you pick out. Herbaceous Perennials [Novice). — If you have room, a border from 5 feet to 10 feet wide (according to your space and plants) would be the way to grow the plants to the best advantage. You must first well dig and manure the soil, or the growth of the plants will be unsatisfactory. Many Perennials are vigorous growers and root freely. Plant in groups and take care that the colours are pleasingly associated. We give a selection — Spring: Alyssum saxatile (yellow), 6 inches ; bulbs in variety. Wallflowers, Ane- mones, Myosotis, and Polyanthuses. SimwKr: Lupines (blue and while), 3 feet; Phloxes, Sun- flowers in variety. Flag Irises (blue chiefly), 3 feet to 4 feet ; Lobelia cardinalis (scarlet), 3 feet to 4 feet; Helenium (yellow), 3 feet; Galega (pale blue), 3 leet ; Gaillardia (yellow), '2i feet ; Alstro;- meria (yellow), 2 feet; Anchusa italica (blue); Campanula persicifolia (blue and white), 3 feet ; Chrysanthemum maximum 2h feet ; Coreopsis grandiflora (yellow), 2 feet; Delphinium (shades of blue), 4 feet ; and Eryngium amethystinum (blue), 3 feet. Autuinn: Aconitum autumnale (blue), 4 feet; Anemone japonica (pink and white) ; Michaelmas Daisies (shades of purple and rose and blue), 2 feet to 6 feet ; Dahlias, Chrysan- themums, Montbretiaa (yellow and mauve), 3 feet ; Rudbeekia (yellow), 3 feet to 4 feat. Then, of course, you must have Sweet Peas and many other hardy annuals. For these see the articles now appearing in The Garden. Reed Mats (E. M. D.). — For making these mats the common Reed (Phragmites communis) is used. They should be cut in autumn and stored. These Reeds are abundant in some parts of the Eastern Counties, in marshland in Sussex and elsewhere, and are sometimes cultivated for thatching purposes. To describe the making of them in the words of an expert: "Four stout pieces of wood (of the required size) are nailed together as a temporary framework, and long nails 1 foot apart are inserted at the top and bottom, to which are fastened stout strands of tar rope, which act as ribs to the mats ; then, commencing at the bottom, small bundles of Reeds (about twelve in each) are laid alternately the heads one way and the stems the other, whereby the mat is kept at an even thickness throughout. Round each of these we fasten a smaller strand of tar string tightly round the straight strands or ribs with a loop or half-hitch knot, which binds the whole firmly together. When the required length is completed, the ends of the strings are loosened from the nails, and plaited together which form a very strong edging at top and bottom and the ends are cut off level with a pair of shears. They may then be rolled up and tied round until required." Where Reed is not easily obtainable, straight and thick straw, though not quite so suitable, may be used instead. Mats very similar in make to these, if not identical, are largely used in Belgium, and samples could probably be obtained without difficulty. The ordinary size is from 7 feet to 8 feet in width. Cottage Garden Competitions (M. G. L.). — As cottage garden societies and garden and allotment competitions are so common in this country, such societies being found in almost every rural village or district, it is difficult for us to understand the action of the cottagers in your locality in refraining from entering the classes you have formed with prizes attached. Is there any feeling of distrust on the one hand, or of a dislike to seem to accept favours on the other? Such feelings are far from being unknown here, although we have competitions so plentifully. The great difficulty is, first, in inspiring in cottagers the needful spirit of emulation, the second to make them understand that the better the work they put into their gardens and the better their crops the more do they profit, and we fully believe that it is an earnest desire to arouse in them and promote these feelings, which induces yourself and friends, as in others, to seek to obtain in cottage gardens much better work and cropping than is so commonly the case. We know of no book that deals with the subject. It would not be one to command a wide sale. If it were possible to get the cottagers together in meeting, and have some one conversant with the subject to talk to them, something useful might be done. The great thing is to win their confidence. Possibly if small books were distri- buted they would not be read. Nothing is more difficult to overcome than is a sort of constitu- tional "don't-caredness." Herein England, where the county and district councils do so much to promote cottage and allotment gardening, by providing practical gardeners as horticultural instructors, and also employ them to lecture to the people and act as garden and allotment judges, very much that is helpful is accomplished. [t would be well could your councils do something similar in Ireland. Ask further yet if you wish. Using Manure (Regular Reader). — It is useless to leave the straw in the manure except, as you say, when the ground is light ; then it would be of some advantage in improving the mechanical condition of the soil. As the manure is collected from the stables put it into a heap and turn it twice, at intervals of two weeks, before putting it on the soil. Dry straw manures are of little use, as the plants find nothing to utilise in them. You should arrange to prevent the loss of the manurial matter, for it is valuable. Can you not drain it into some receptacle ? Turn the heap once a week for two weeks, and then dig it in the ground where there are to be no crops for some time. Protecting Cactus Dahlias (Cachi,%). — There are several contrivances for protecting blooms of Dahlias for exhibition. A very old one is that of a deal stake, cut square, about 1 inch in dia- meter ; upon this is fixed a deep inverted saucer- shaped zinc frame to which is attached an arm and shaped at the end so as to fit on the stake and slide up and down as required. It is fixed in position by means of a screw. The shade should be 1 foot in diameter. "One rough and ready method is to nail a chocolate box (without the lid) on the end of a stake, and secure the flower to the stake, to prevent its beating against the side of the box. Another way is to make a frame of wire or wood the same shape as the roof of a house and stretch canvas over it; painting the canvas white and fastening the frame to a stake, either fixed or so that it will slide up and down; this is a very cool arrangement." ("The Dahlia," by William Cuthbertson.) The more delicate Cactus Dahlias — thoseof creamy and pink shades, or such as are delicately tipped — often need close shading to have them in all their refined beauty. For this purpose it is usual to have a piece of flat circular board, 12 inches to 15 inches in diameter, affixed to a stake, with a wedge cut out half-way across, so that the stem of the flower can be in the centre; and the bloom, properly secured, is covered with an inverted flower-pot. Such a method of shading is usually commenced a week in advance of the show. This period is usually long enough for any method of shading. Mr. John Pinches of Camberwell has recently put an improved shade on the market, of which iOahlia experts, we believe, speak highly. RoMNEYA Coulteri (H. L. N.). — Do not on any account move your Romneya. Transplanting this tree Poppy is a most risky operation, especially if the plant is a large one, and generally leads to its death. Even in shifting seedlings from the seed-pan to small pots many often die, as they do in later repottings. There is no neces- sity to grow Romneya Coulteri against a wall, as it has proved to be a fairly hardy subject, since it has done well unprotected in Scotland and North Wales. It does not pay in the long run to allow the Romneya to make growth from last year's wood. Plants treated in this manner have, in two or three years, attained a height of 9 feet or 10 feet, and been handsome objects for that period, but have subsequently died. Permanent vigour is, however, obtained by limiting the growth to that of the current year, though the plants do not reach so great a height. It would, however, be unwise to cut the old growths back to the base just at present. This should be done after danger from severe frosts is past, say, during April. Heliotrope (Northiam). — The Heliotrope is suffering from a fungoid attack, set up by an excess of moisture in the atmosphere. These plants are particularly liable to be attacked in this way during the winter months, but as a rule they quickly grow out of it as spring advances. To keep them fresh and green throughout the winter keep a temperature of 50° to 60°. Should any signs of disease appear the infected part must be at once dusted with sulphur. If you treat your plant in this way now, and give a moderate amount of air when the weather is favourable, it will soon gain strength if the roots are in a healthy state, for without this no permanent good can be hoped for. If you have any doubt as to the condition of the roots the plant should be turned out of the pot, as much as possible of the old soil removed, and repotted in a mixture of two parts loam to one part of leaf-mould and a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. After this take care not to over water till the roots are in possession of the new compost. At the same time do not let the soil get too dry. Maiden Trees of Apples and Pears ( W. H. F.). — The time for pruning these trees is from Christmas to March, but the work, in your case, should be done at once. The maiden trees, as you say, are formed of a single stem, the growth of last year. These, we presume, will be • of varying length and strength. The strongest shoots should be cut back to within seven buds of their base. This will result in these seven buds breaking strongly and growing into vigorous shoots in the course of the summer. The topmost bud will grow in an upright direction and form what is termed the main shoot of the tree, the six lower buds will produce shoots which will grow vertically, forming the foundation. Improving Weakly Lawn (R. 6. B.).—The basic slag should have been applied earlier than this, but it is not too late now at the rate of from 61b. to 81b. per pole. The dressing of nitrate of soda should be applied at the end of this month in showery weather at the rate of 31b. or 41b. per pole. "Before applying the latter it should be ground down as fine as possible. 140 THE GARDEN. [Maech 4, 1905. Violet Plants (H. W. P.), — Yours are well grown plants, and it is a pity they have received Buch a severe check ; but by keeping them cool and giving as much air as possible (without exposure to frost), we think they will yet come round and give you a good return of flowers later on. We have frequently seen similar results from a bad fog or growing them in too warm an atmosphere, or both combined, causing the leaves to be tender and unable to stand against frost, or being covered up against frosty weather in the dark days of winter. SOCIETIES. LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. A MEETING of the above was held at thesociety's office quite recently, Mr. T. Foster presiding over a small attendance of members. This was somewhat surprising considering the importance and interest of the subject announced for the meeting, i.e., "The Currant Bud-mite: Its History and the Various Suggested Remedies," by Mr. Robert Newstead, A.L.S., of the Grosvenor Museum, Chester. The lecturer, in introducing the subject, said the first record of the bud-mite was in 1S70. The number of mites in one bud is about 3,000 ; the lecturer had counted 2,748. Their method of progression is by crawling, leaping, or attaching themselves to moving bodies, such as the fruit gatherers. The mite is extremely minute ; it takes about 15U placing them end to end to make an inch. A greater number of eggs are found in March than at any other time of the year, and in June the least number. At this season they are found climbing the young growths and settling on the back of the young leaves before entering the newly-formed buds. Among the best-known remedies that have been used are pariilhn, sulphur, naphtha, turpen- tine, carbolic acid, tic. The lecturer recommended where planting in quantity was contemplated they should be divided by some other plants. Various interesting details were given by those present, and the lecture was enhanced in interest by examples l)eing shown under the microscope. The thanks of the meeting were heartily accorded to Mr. Newstead for his interesting and valuable lecture. ROYAL SCOTTISH ARBORICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual meeting of the Royal Scottish Arboricultural Society was held in the Goold Hall, Edinburgh, on the 10th ult., when there was a large attendance of the members, presided over by Mr. W. SteuartFothringham of Murthly. Professor Augustine E. Henry of the National Forest School, Nancv, was elected an honorary member of the society. The report of the council was one of the most satisfactory ever submitted to the society. It showed continued additions to the membership, which now stands at 1.U75, an addition of 59, and is composed of : Honorary members, 18; honorary associates, 7; life members, 200; aud ordinary members, 784. The report gave details of the steps taken by the council to promote forestry by urging upon the Government the necessity of establishing a demonstration area and example plots, and in laying suggested areas before the Government depart- ments. None of these had yet been adopted, and the council were still on the outlook for suitable places. After a few remarks upon various matters in connexion with the report, its adoption was agreed to. Mr. Methven, the treasurer, submitted an abstract of the accounts, which showed a balance at the credit of capital account of £1,284 103. r)d., with a similar balance on revenue account of £304 43. 2d., less the cost of the 1904 transactions. The office-bearers were elected, Mr. Steuart Fothringham of Murthly being re-elected president. A valualile address on "Japanese and North American Larch and Other Trees from those Countries likely to be useful as British Forest Trees" was delivered by Mr. H. J. Elwes. Colesbuurne. Mr. Elwes was generally of opinion that few of the Japanese conifers had any special qualities which would make them useful to Scottish foresters. The lecture was very instructive, and was illustrated with a series of slides. In the evening the members dined in the North British Station Hotel, the president in the chair. There was a large attendance, and the speeches were excellent. The tre, Glasnevin, and by Mr. J. T. Bennett-Pde, Cheshunt. Those from Mr. Moore were cut flowers ; Mr. B^nnett-Pbe sent plants in pots. In both instances the ?■ me kinds were shown, and it was at a glance evident how much these things lose when cut and packed in boxes. The pot-grown plants were exceedingly ornamental. A botanical certiflcate and a cultural commendation were awarded to Rosa gigantea. This remarkable species was shown in flower by the Duke of Northumberland, Albury Park (gardener, Mr. W. C. Leach). The buds are creamy buff, long, and tapering, the expanded single fiuwbis pure white and iieaily 4 inches across. 'J'ne species is very rarely seen in flower in this country, nut being sufliciently hardy to endure the English winter 1q the open. New Plants. Lachenalia Brilliant. — A veiy handsome variety, with mottled purple stems and large, widely-txpanded Howers of golden yellow tinged with red. A stin-ly giower and free flowering. From Mr, J, T. Benneti-Pi-e, Cheshunt, and Mr. F. W. Moore, Glasnevin. A*vard ui nieiit. Lachenalia Jean Roger. — Tall growing, with yellow and green scarlet-tipped spikes of flowers. This is very showy. From Mr. J. T. Bennett-Poe, Cheshunt, and Mr. F. W. Moore, Glasnevin. Award of merit. Floral Committee (February 14). Carex Vilmorini — A neat growing and dwarf plant with striated leafage. The latter is very narrow aTid long, and, gracefully arobing over the side of the pots, has a moat elegant appearance. In the tuft the plant rises but 6 inches or 8 inches before the leaves gracefully droop. We are not sure lo what type the plant belongs, but in general appearance and so far as may be gathered from leaves alone it may be likened Lo a dwarf and narrow- leaved form of C. acutifolia. Small plants grown in 3-inch pots would make graceful objects fur the decorator. Frorn Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent. Award of merit. Primula Ws Majesty. — A large pure white semi-doubid form of P. sinensi", which, by reas-n of size, should flnJ many admirers. Such strains usually come fairly true from seeds, and if well fixed the present form will prove an acquisition. From Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading. Award of merit. Crocus chrytianthwi variety. — A remarkably pretty and profuse floweiiiig plant fn.iu Miss Willmott, V.M.H., Wariey Place, Warley. The segments are roundish, ovate, the three outer ones heavily stained with bluish purple. The centre of the flower is stained with yellow, and generally the beauty of the flower is enhanced by the rich scarlet-orange of tbe pistil. It is very free-flowering, a single corm having eight buds and blossoms prominently in view, so that a small patch of it would be extremely effective. Award of merit. RosePrince de Bulgaria (U.T.). — Good winter-flowering Roses are by no means too plentiful, and we welcome ao good a variety as the one under r.otice. It is not a novelty, having been introduced into cultivation in 1901, though we do not remember it previously as a winter-flowering kind. It is very beautiful, the long shapely buds, borne on strong stems, render it an ideal one for decoration. The colour ii silvery flesh, delicately shading to soft flesh or palest pink in the centre. In all probability this (lower would have more colour when grown in the open. From Messrs. Paul and Son, The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt. Award of merit. BROUGHTY FERRY HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. A MEETING of this association was held on the 21st ulc, when there was a good attendance, presided over by Mr. James Slater. An interesting exhibit from Mr. J. Bell, Corona House Gardens, which attracted much admiratitm, was a magnificent specimen of Dendrobium nobile. The paper of the evening was by Mr. Alexander M'Rae, Bil- lumbie Gardens, who gave most concise and practical advice on laying out, levelling, draining, planting, &c., of gardens. NORTH OF FIFE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual general meeting of this society was held at Luthrie recently, Mr. Thomas Btrrie, president, in the chair. The annual financial report, which showed a small balance in favour of the society, was considered a satisfdC- tory one, and was adopted by the meeting. The fullowing office-bearers were appointed, in addition to the committee of managers: President, Mr. Rintoul, Balhelvie ; vice- president. Rev. T. Crichton, Gauldry ; secretary, Mr. Ding- wall; treasurer, Mr. Miller. It is intended to hold this year's show on August 5. CARDIFF GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The usual fortnightly meeting was held at the Sandring- ham Hotel on the 2Lst ult., Mr. T. Clarke in the chair. Mr. Thomas Malpass (hon. treasurer) delivered an instruc- tive lecture on "Sweet Peas," and the discussion wis of an interesting nature, so papular has the flower become in the district, and the best thanks of the meeting were accorded the lecturer, which terminated the pruceediin^s. On Wednesday (the following evening) about fifty memb ra paid a visit to the Cardiff Electrical Power Station, Jind were met there by Couucill"r J. W. Courtis (chairman of the Cardiff Tramways) and ifr. Ellis (electric-il engineer and manager), who conducted the party through ihe various departments. The huge boilers and engines wt- re the centre of attraction, and many hints were given to ihe members upon the working of the various parts. The visit was an educational treat. On leaving, the chairman of the association proposed that the best thanks of the members be accorded the officials for their kindness in allowing the members to visit such a place. J. Julian. CROYDON AND DISTRICT HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Mr. T. W. Briscoe, of ihe Royal Gardens, Kew, read his first prize essay on " Pruning and Training Hardy Fruib Trees." It will be remembered this society offered to its members prizes for essays during last year, and when one listened to Mr. Briscoe's remarks, the unanimous opinion \A. THE GARDEN [March 4, 1905. was that he had dealt with his suiijecL in a very practical and exhaustive manner. He advucated the hesL method to prune and train each particular fruit in the different systems, also the best time when these operations should be accomplished. It was t-o be regretted, he said, that due care and forethought were not always given to this part of the gardener's work. A good discussion amongst the members fuUoived the reading of the paper, and each one bore out the mode of culture advised by the essayist. Mr. B. Acock, Shirley Hyrst Gardens, exhibiied well-grown Priujula obcouica, and from Air. F. Octoby, Coombe Lodge Gardens, came a bundle of foiced Ehubarb, all of which were much appreciated and received the meeting's vote of thanks. A unanimous vote of ihauks was accorded Mr. Briscoe for reading his esaay. BRISTOL AND DISTRICT GARDENERS' MUTUAL IMPROVEilENT ASSOCIATION. A WELL-ATTENDED meeting of this association was held at St. Jithn's Rooms, Redlands, recently. Mr. P. Garnish occupied the chair and introduced the lecturer, Mr. Farmer, from the Cardiff Gardeners' Association, who took for his subject "Vines." It need hardly be said thu subject is a very popular one, and the lecturer's remarks, based as they were on his own practical experience, were eagerly listened to by a most attentive audience. Mr. Farmer, among many other items, showed how with oidi- nary care it was possible to have a cane with twelve ts. It was naiiied in compliment to Mr. Garry, at that time secretary to the Hudson's Bay Company. The i)lant bearing the catkins as here described is the male ; the female is very March 11, 1905.j THE GAEDEN. 149 rare and not so ornamental.__ As a rule this Garrya is hardy in ttie open : _ may be planted quite close together," i.e., in the Garrya is planted against walls, but it is quite pit or frame. This is quite contrary to my hardv in the open in the southern counties. i experience, as I allow my plants plenty of room, as ' then they get the full benefit ot what little sun- shine we experience in winter, and, having a freer circulation of air around A FAMOUS HOLLY HEDGE. The most perfect Holly hedge that I have ever seen is that bounding the park at Tyntesfield, the residence of Mr. Antony Gibbs, a few miles from Bristol. Planted on a bank 3 feet high it extends by the side of the public road nearly two miles. In height it is about 4 feet, with almost perpendicular sides and an evenly - rounded top about 3 feet wide ; it is so well furnished that it would be diifi- cult of access at the base for even a rabbit. E. M. A VALUABLE HAKDY HEATH. (Erica Meditbrranba Hyekida. ) The hardy Heaths are among the most precious of winter- flowering evergreen shrubs. The term "shrub" is perhaps hardly suited for this low, tufted bush that is so full of flower from January to April ; indeed, as the days lengthen so do its flowers strengthen and increase in beauty. That well-known Heath E. herbacea carnea is one of the parents of the plant above noted. The other parent is the equally well known Mediter- ranean Heath, also a good plant. The newcomer is somewhat more erect in growth and dis- tinct by reason of the white- tipped shoots of summer. The great charm of the plant, how- ever, is the endless array of flowering spikes that now adorn the foot high bushes, the branches spreading out and covering the soil. Quite hardy in this country this pretty Heath may be turned to excel- lent account for carpeting the surface of the ground where choice Lilies are grown. E. J. them, are not so disposed to damp off. With regard to soil Mr. Thomas recommends this "to be of a poor nature." My treat- ment is different, as I give them a mixture of one part old potting soil and one of leaf-mould. This A Nkw Tree Carnation. From Courtbushes Nurseries, Hurstpierpoint, Sussex, Messrs. H. and J. Elliott send a flower of a new Tree Carnation called H. Elliott, a large, well-formed flower of brilliant cerise colouring, somewhat resembling Mrs. T. W. Lawson. The flower sent was cut six days before we received it, 80 that apparently it lasts well. Messrs. Elliott write that when first cut it measured exactly 3j inches in diameter, and had a rich Clove fragrance. Apple Rymer. Rymer is an Apple not often seen or spoken about ; why this should be I do not know, as it has long keeping qualities, as well as a beautiful colour It n ay not be a variety so suitable for small gardens but where room can be given it is most serviceable. The tree is healthy and Mgorouo, bearing well most years. The enclosed specimens are from trees planted about thirty EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us any- thing of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cul- tural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice ot it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, ''S' tree, shrub, Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, W.C. CATKINS OV GARRYA ELLIPTICA (NATURAL SIZE). (From a dratving by H. G. Moon.) t ij^j Sweet* Violets. Mr. Thomas, in his note on Sweet Violets (page 101 of The Garden) writes: "The plants is placed in the pit, and not trodden or pressed at all, but kept as loose as possible. I do not know if Mr. Thomas has expe- rience of growing Violets in the London dis- trict, where growers are terribly handicapped by London fogs, which are deadly poison to the Violet. Notwithstanding their suffering so much from foEjs this winter, I have had a good supply of Marie Louise Violets since the first week in September, and am sending you a small bunch for your inspection. — W. G. , Wimbledon Park. [The flowers were very good. Marie Louise, in spile of the many new varieties, is still one of the most beautiful of Violets. Its scent is delicious, and the colour most welcome. — Ed.] years ago, and are now at their best. Much hai been said of late about imported Apples, and that these often sell before the English cannot !>« denied. A market Apple, in my opinion, must have two qualities, that is, colour and size, as the public needs something big and bright to look at, quality being the last consideration. Not that Rymer is above medium size, but it shoulil commend itself by its good colour and the fact that it is in use from October to the end of March. This is a kitchen Apple, although not bad for dessert at this season of the year. — 6. Waller, Cock Crow Hill, Long Ditton, Surbiton. [The fruits were excellent, clean, large, and 1 brilliant crimson in colour. — Ed.] 150 THE GARDEN. Makcii U, 1905. GARDENING FOR B8GINNSRS. GA R D E N - M A K I N G . — Id dis- cussing this matter, if opinions clash, uriB may get out of a little difficulty by using the stereotj'ped phras-e, "Oh ! it is a matter of taste," and, so far as arranging llie main features are concerned, it really is a ni itter of laste ; and if the ground to be dealt with is only of moderate extent, do not try to work in very elaborate designs. After the many and varied garden designs that have been adopted and after a time discarded, it is pleasant to be able once more to see everj'where a return to simpler and more beautiful gardening. " The Common Tkimj^ in Nature are the Moi-t Beautiful " — I liavn burrowed this phrase from a book written by a French naturalist many ye\rs ago, because 1 have often felt its truth. The simplest-designed gardens are generally the most pleasing — an open lawn near the house, its boundaries hidden by tree and shrub growth, margined here and therewith group-i of flowering plants jutting out informally to give prominence to some special feature. A wall partly hidden by groups of shrubs and fiowers may be there, disclosing fresh scenes and objects of interest created by choice trees, shrubs, and flowers at every turn. The Old Englith Garden as I remember it in the past was often in many parts or sections, dis- tinct, yet merging easily into each other, the chief idea being peacefulness. But there was room within its boundaries for various phases of gardening, the chief features consisting of hardy materials, including the pleached alleys of Bacon, Yew trees, hedges, and walks bordered by Yew trees, and lawns ornamented with spread- ing Cedars. In large places we had the FreiiCh garden, with its fountains and statuary ; the Dutch, with its tiled paths and fancy pots and t.ubs of little trees trained as standards. Myrtles, Pomegranates, and Oranges were plentiful. In those days we had numbers of the small-leaved Oranges, thickly laden with small, highly- coloured fruits, neat little standard plants that could easily be grown in 6-inch pots, and by judicious feeding could be kept healthy in that size for jears. There were also large beds of Roses, all of one colour, and when pruning the long shoots were left for pegging down, so that the beds were always full. The varieties grown have now for the most part passed away, yet one's thoughts linger pleasantly over those masses of white and pink Provence, Maiden's Blush, the striped York and Lancaster, and others. "'Tis a Mad World, My Masters," and there have been mad things done in the garden. When under the influence of the bedding-oub craze — I say it with regret — I have helped to dismantle several old English gardens, scattering many hardy favourites to make room for ribbon borders, carpet beds, and other arrangements for pro- viding space for garish colouring. But that era has passed, and it has not been without its compensations, for our stocks of hardy plants, our Phloxes, Pyrethrums, Lilies, Delphiniums, &'.. , have never been so good as thoy are now. We may miss the old double white Rocket, but even that nftay be had. There are Some Things thai Never Change, anil the chief of these is the necessity for good hard work in the preparation of the site. In the smaller villa gardens there is a tendencj' to scamp the preliminary work in preparing the beds for Roses, climbers, and other things. The walks. SIMPLE HINTS. too, in many places are merely a sprinkling of gravel on the bare earth, that in winter is always damp and weedy. The cost of most things has risen. The same monej' will not do as much work now as it did in the past, and the work is less well done all round. This often leads to failures, accompanied by a feeling of disgust, which have some excuse. Fashion Changes, Often Suddenly; but it has had its beneficial influence upon the garden. It | has given us the big Chrysanthemum, the Cactus Dahlia, and the Tufted Pansy, besides many other things of equal or greater importance, including the lovely iSweet Peas, which are found now in every cottage garden. Of course, the mere culti- vator— the man who wields the spade and superintends the manure heap — has not been 1 idle. Without the spadework and the manure heap there would be no flowers of superior size i and colour. The flowers of the field are beauti- ful, but not equal to those in the garden. Planting Marrow /*ea-s. — The seeds of these ' are softer and less hardy than the early varie- I ties of round and wrinkled Peas, and they some- times fail if sown too earl}', but in well-drained land they may be sown once a fortnight from the middle of March till the first week in June. Afterwards bring the second early out again, and finish off with a few rows of first earlies on the south border the first week in Jul}'. These may not be a great success, but it is worth the risk. Plant Marrow Peas 3 inches apart on the bottom of 6-inch-wide drills i inches deep. Mice in the Garden. — A good cat is the best mouse-trap, because it requires no setting, and a cat brought up in a garden soon gets to know its business, and clears off the mice and often becomes an ttiicient bird scarer. I dislike laying poison about. 1 once had a severe shock from the careless use of poison in a garden. But neither mice, rats, nor birds will eat seeds which have been dusted over with red lead. This is a poison, of course, but it may be safely used if the person who uses it is careful. First damp the seeds slightly, and then dust with red lead, stirring them about with a stick till all are covered. Sohher Shoots in Peaches and Nectarines. — Many of my amateur gardening friends grow Peaches and Nectarines on walls, and when the trees make long, vigorous shoots they rejoice that things are apparently going on so well. The experienced gardener, however, knows better, and when he observes those long, rank growths ramping away to the top of the wall he knows that the latter are only robber shoots, and are drawing the very life out of the rest of the tree. Just to show how mistakes are made as to which is the. right and wrong class of young wood to have in a Peach or Nectarine, I may say that I quite recently observed an amateur pruning and tying in his trees. Every piece of rank, unripened wood was being carefully fastened back to the wall, and the worst was that the man was cutting out young pieces about the thickness of a leaii pencil, which were nicelv furnished with fruit buds, in order to make room for the useless material described above. It was a real dis- appointment to the grower when I pointed out that the shoots he prized the most were really useless. Everyone must bear in mind that Poaches and Nectarines are borne on wood of the previous season's growth, and the principle is to lay in as much of this as can be accommodated without overcrowding ; but it is necessary to discriminate between fruiting wood of moderate strength and gross robber shoots of the character described. Newl3'-planted young trees sometimes make a lot of rank growth, and when this is the case, the best course is to lift the specimens, shorten back the long roots, and replant them, as this is a means of checking the exuberance ; but on older trees robber shoots never ought to be present at the time of the winter pruning. The reason is that they should be entirely removed from the trees while the leaves are on them in the summer. Every day that they are allowed to grow these robber shoots are drawing something from the tree, and though the most vital error is that of allowing them to remain indefinitely, it is best to remove them before they have had time to take the strength from the fruitful parts of the tree. Success in Grafting. — This depends in a much greater measure than is supposed upon having the stock and the scions in the right relative condition. The sap in the stock must be in full Sow upwards, and the buds of the scion or graft should be dormant. When the two cut surfaces are properly adjusted, with the edges of the bark of each meeting and bound firmly together, and clayed or waxed so that air cannot penetrate, most of the grafts will grow, even if the operator should not be an expert. Primula ohconica. — This plant has been accused of irritating the skin of certain thin-skinned persons, but the number of those who suffer incon- venience is, I think, not large, and the plants are so useful and beautiful, especially in winter, that thej' are not likelj' to disappear. The seed of this plant is very minute, and it does not retain its vitality very long. I have in the past bought a good many packets of seed, some of which grew and others failed altogether, which proves,! think, that home-saved seeds of this plant are best, especially as seed-saving in this case is so easy. As an experiment last season I sowed the seeds obtained from one small pod, and 128 iiowering plants were obtained from it. Figs in the Open Air. — Given a warm sunny corner, either on a building or wall, a well-drained site where means have been taken to keep the roots out of the subsoil bj' what is termed station planting, by the use of concrete or in some other way, a crop of Figs would be assured. Away from the South Coast it may be necessary to untrain the branches, draw them together, and protect with mats or evergreen branches at the approach of frost, the protection to be removed early in March, and the tree pruned and trained. The Pruning of Figs will be done to a large extent, as it is with most other trained fruit trees, in summer, and will begin with disbudding when the young shoots are quite small or not. more than '2 inches or 3 inches long. The young shoots on open-air Figs are not stopped, as no second crop will ripen. The Fig tree has large foliage, and the growth must be kept thus so that the wood may ripen. As the young shoots grow, secure them to the warm face of the wall and expose the fruit to the full influence of the sun. Champagne Rlmharh for Forcing. — A trial of early varieties of Rhubarb has been conducted by a friend, a market grower, this spring, in order to find out which was the most remunerative and best to force. The result proved that the above old sort was by far the best in every way. The colour, quality, and productiveness were everything that could be desired, and his customers would have no other sort whilst this was to be had. E. H. -Maiich- 11, 1905.] THE GARDEN 151 GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. FOR fllUng up both borders and beds of perennials during the summer months it la necessaiy to sow now various seeds of tender and other animats in heat. Fibrous- ROOT ED Begonias (B. seniperflorens), now so deservedly popular, may be sown. They are not so long in germiuating, and grow much more quickly than the tuberous ones, so that they will be quite as l^ige at ihe planting time as the latter that were sown two months earlier. If sown now Marguerite Carnations will bloom pr>>fusely during late aummei, forming a good succession In perennial varieties. Xo bloom freely the same season Dianthus of the Heddewegi type must be sown and grown on quickly. It is time for sowing Petunias, Nicotianas, Nemesias, Delphiniums (annual), Salvias, Verbenas, Cen- taureas, Lobelias, Alonsoa, Gaillardias, Phlox Driiramondii, Coreopsis, dwarf Nasturtiums, Sunflowers (especially the amall-flowered kinds), and many others. For the Rock Garden the following will be found useful where llie soil is thin, and be a pleasing change : lonopsidium ncaule, Leptosiphon, Lotus peliorhynchus, Portulaca, Krinus alpinus, Verbena venosa, Iceland Poppies, &c. Most of the above should be sown in moderate rather than slrongheat. The seedlings should be gradually inured to cooler quarters for pricking out and planting. Through exigencies of circumstances it will be advisable in many cases to sow hardy annuals, itc, in boxes or prepared beds close at hand for observation, instead of where they are tobloom. Many would probably succeed better so than being moved, but the well-known fondness of snails and slugs for tender succulent seedlings renders it imperative to have them under close surveillance. They should be pown in cold pits or the open, and as the seedlings become fit for handling prick them out into prepared soil, shallow, and on a hard bottom, or into boxes for con- venience of moving subsequently. Prick out either singly or in small tufts, the latter being the most satisfactory method for many. Of course, where slugs and other enemies can be kept under, by all means sow where they are to flower, paying timely attention to thinning out freely before the seedlings become drawn. If from any cause there are still arrears in dividing and replanting Herbaceous and Perennial Plants, they must be brought up and completed without further delay, for growth is becoming active. Having finished planting and levelling the surface of the borders, sow Mignonette broadcast, but thinly, among the taller growers, more especially if near the house ; it will help to carpet the ground, and in due time the perfume will be very pleasing. Trim Laurels and Other Shrubs that need keeping within bounds, but avoid the clipping shears. Personally I prefer doing this work in alternate years, except the cutting out of an odd gross shoot, for by cutting the two year old wood well back the remaining spray hides the cuts, and the objectionable slubbiness is done away with to a great extent. Clip Ivy hard and close on walls and buildings ; at this season fresh growth will quickly clothe the bareness. Cut back to a few eyes Golden Elder, Purple Hazel, Paulownias, Hydrangea paniculata, Leyces- teria formosa, and all such as are improved in growth of leaf, depth of colour, or size of bloom by such an opera- tion. J, Roberts. The Gardens, Tan-y-hwtch, North Wales. INDOOK GARDEN. While there is always plenty of work to be found in a garden, with the advent of March and lengthening days the work increases. Have blinds fitted to the houses ready for use. Houses containing newly-potted plants require keeping a little closer for a time to encourage root action in the new soil. On favourable days give plenty of air to Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and Marguerites coming into flower. Autumn-rooted plantsof the latter are ready for potting on. Remove the lights from Violet frames on warm days. Abundance of flowers should now be rewarding the grower. Remove decayed leaves, and an occasional watering will be necessary. Many seeds can now be sown ; Balsams, Cock's-combs, and Celosias may be sown in heat. Those having only cool greenhouses should sow tuberous- rooted Begonia seed ; the seedlings will make small bulbs for flowering the following year. Seedlings of many things sown in January are ready for pricking out or potting off. Shallowpans are the most suitable for Gloxinias, Begonias, and Streptocarpus. Keep them near the glass in a warm house. Syringe several times on bright days. The present time is suitable for inserting cuttings of plants somewhat difficult to root curlier in the year. Also insert cuttings of Bouvardias and Lantanas. The pretty double whire Petunia Mrs. Jeffery should be potted on as soon as ready. This plant should be in every collection of cool green- house plants ; il is very easily grown, and lasts a long time in flower. Chrysanthemums.— After potting place these in a light position close to the glass in frames from where frost is excluded. Keep close for a few days after potting, and syringe once or twice on bright days. Cuttings rooted now make very useful plants in 6-inch pots by the flowering season. For growing in this way the d warfer free-flowering varieties should be selected. Pinched once or twice they form compact, bushy plants. Palms.— These should bp repotted or put in fresh tubs if necessary. A mistake is often made in overpotting Palms. It is surprising what large specimens can be grown in comparatively small pots. Except with the smaller spechnens they can remain several years in the same pots if top-dressed annually. Campanulas.— Divide or pot on C. isophylla and its varieties. Cuttings can also be inserted if a large stock is required. Three parts fibrous loam, one part lewf-mould, and a Utile broken mortar rubble and sand will be found a suitable compost. Keep the plants in a cool house or frame, and do not coddle in any way. They also make excellent subjects for baskets. C. pyramidalis should be potted or top-dressed aa required ; sow seeds to obtain plants for next year. C.Vidalii is a very useful plant, not grown nearly as much as it deserves ; it recjuires only protection from frost in winter. It is easily raised from seed, and is best if treated as a biennial. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. A. OSBORN. ORCHIDS. Dendroeiums —At this season many species of Dendro- bium and their hybrids form the principal attraction in the Orchid houses. It will be noticed that many of the plnnts are starting into growth, but the cultivator should not be tempted into giving them too much water at the root, or some of the young shoots may turn black and decay. The plants should be kept moderately dry while in bloom, but not so dry as to cause the pseudo-bulbs to shrivel. A few of the earlier-flowering ones that have gone out of bloom and have their growths well advanced should be either neatly top-dressed or, if they require it, be repotted. In either operation a moderate share of the old soil should be carefully picked out. Dendrobiums root freely in fibrous peat and sphagnum moss, using rather more moss than peat, and adding a moderate quantity of small crocks and coarse silver sand, well mixing the whole together. Propagating Dendrobiums.- It is now agood time to commence to propagate any sorts wanted in large num- bers, especially the rarer ones ; in fact, it is advisable to propagate a few plants of each variety every year and to grow them on as quickly as possible, so as to take the place of the older plants as they become useless from various causes. I have had most satisfactory results by propagation in the following manner : Cut off some of the old back bulbs, preferably those that have failed to bloom, and lay them down on some fresh live .'Sphagnum moss iu a hot and moist propagating frame. Equally good results may be obtained by cutting the bulbs into various lengths and inserting them in pots filled with a mixture of sphagnum moss and sand, placing them in a hot, moist corner of the warmest house. Strong plants may also be had by inserting the pieces of bulbs into the surface moss, in which such Orchids as Aerides, Saccolabium, &c., have recently been repotted. When the young growths, which appear upon the stems, commence to root they should be separated and potted in moss only. Sometimes aerial growths are produced upon the old pseudo-bulbs, and these should betaken off when only a few inches high and potted. Thunias.— Thunia Marshallii, T. BensonJEc, T. alba, T. pulchra, T, candidissima, and the pretty hybrids T. veitchiana and T. brymeriana are deciduous plants, and they naturally have a decided rest during the autumn and winter. These Thunias are beginning to push up new growths from the base of the pseudo-bulbs, and should now be shaken out and repotted. The general and most convenient way is to plant six or eight bulbs about 3 inches apart in a good-sized pot, which should be half filled with drainage, over which place a layer of turfy loam. The roots will find out the loam, to the benefit of the plants, about the time the flower-buds show. The potting mixture should consist of peat, loam, sphagnum moss, and some small crocks and coarse sand. When potting keep the base of each young growth on a level with the surface of the soil, and each bulb will require a stake to hold it firm. Place the plants in the lightest position available in the East Indian or Dendrobium house, near the roof glass. At first, on account of the small number of roots, the plants should be watered very sparingly, but gradually increase the supply of water, and plenty of heat must be given. When the plants are thoroughly re-established and the roots have pushed through the compost, an occasional dose of weak liquid cow manure is beneficial to them. All these Thunias may be readily propagated by taking off the back bulbs about June, cutting them at the joints into lengths of about •1 inches to 6 inches, and inserting them firmly as cuttings in small pots well drained, using a mixture of chopped sphagnum moss and coarse silver sand. Burford Gardens, Dorking. W. H. WHITE. rubbed off at once. I do not advise the method of one Bhoot to a spur, but leave suHlcient growths to ensure a good ppread of foliage without crowding. Do not let the borders become dry, and give tepid water. The latest Muscats, if not already started, should not be further delayed, as the bunches lequire a long season to finish perfectly. This p .iut is influenced a gieat deal by the conditions in wliich the Vines are growing. A light, lofty, well-ventilated structure, with inside well-drained tjorders and a good supply of hot-vvaler pipes, are im- portant factors towards successful culture, and one wouM not hear so much of bad "setting" and bad flniah if these conditions were present. All late Vines must now be started. Lady Downe's and Gros Colraar retiuire a longer season than Alicante, and should be in the warmest end of the house. Give the borders a top-dressing of fresh loam, which has been enriched by the addition of wood ashes, brick rubble, and Bentley's Vine B )rder Compound. If roots are plentiful a thorough watering with liquid manure will be of great benefit. Melons.— Plants raised early in January and grown on the cordon system should be stopped when halfway up the trellis. This will encourage the growth of side shoots and hasten the plants into flower. Do not cijmmence fertilising the flowers till two or three are open on each plant. This will encourage the fiuits to develop together, and ensuie an even crop, ilake fresh sowiugs as required. Kipe fruits can be cut in twelve weeks from the time of sowing at this time of year. E. HarrISS. Fruit Dci)artmenty Royal Gardens, Windsor. FRUIT GARDEN. Pot Vines.— The Vines which were started in November are fast swelling their fruit, and now require feeding. Stimulants may be given with every alternate watering. There is nothing better than liquid manure from the farm- yard, but Thomson's Vine Manure or Le Fruitier, either in liquid form or as a top-dressing, may be given occa- sionally as a change, aianures must be discontinued as soon as colouring commences. If the fermenting material declines below 70"^ it should be turned, adding a little fresh litter with it. Early Permanent Vines.— All surplus bunches should be removed as soon as it can be seen which are the best, leaving the most compact and best placed to furnish the crop. Thinning the benies must receive early attention. This is a work requiring much care and skill. One must have in mind the characteristics of each particula' variety in carrying it out. Black Hamburgh is a variety of loose habit, and should not be thinned to the same extent as most other varieties. Mid-season Vines.— Attend to the disbudding of these as early as possible. All weak, useless shoots may be KITCHEN GARDEN. Seakale is indigenous to many of our seashores, but so far I have not discovered it by the Solway. As a spring vegetable Seakale is much appreciated, making a welcome change from winter green and Broccoli. Eor many years my system '.f cultivating Seakale has been from loot cuttings. When lifting strong crowns for forcing, medium and smaller ones are cut i inches long, retaining the crown end only ; these are laid in sandy soil till wanted for planting. Select a piece of ground for this purpose deeply dug and well manured. Should the soil be of a heavy nature, some of a lighter kind should be put underneath and around the sets when planting. Plant these firmly and alternately in the rows 2 feet apart each way, and level with the surface. During summer weeds must be scrupulously kept down, and the Dutch hoe occasionally used between the drills. After heavy rains copious supplies of liquid manure will furnish excellent food for the Seakale plants. For Seakale for blanching where grown the sets are planted in clumps of three, leaving from 6 inches to S inches between each set, 3 feet between the rows, and 2 feet 6 inches from clump to clump. Radishes. — At this season a sowing of Radishes may be made on a sheltered border. To obtain crisp and juicy Radishes they must be grown where the soil is both rich and deep. Richness of the soil will hasten growth and retain the necessary moisture. Radishes grown on poor, dry ground soon become tough and uneatable. For a first sowing outside I consider Wood's Early Frame a good variety. To keep up a succession of good Radishes a small sowing should be made at intervals of ten or fourteen days. Celery. — If desired for early or exhibition purposes, a little should now be sown in a well-drained seed-pan, filled to within an inch of the top with equal parts of good loam and material from a spent Mushroom bed. Make fairly fiim and moist before sowing the seed, which dis- tribute evenly and not too thickly; cover with fine soil, and place in a temperature of about 65'^. When the seed- lings make their appearance watering must be carefully attended to, as the least approach to dryness will most seriously injure the growth of this moisture-loving plant. Sutton's White Gem and Solid AVhite are excellent varieties for early use, both being crisp and of first-rate flavour. Turnips.— Early sowings of Turnips are chance crops at the best, and where the district is bleak this operation had better be delayed for ten days or a fortnight. In favoured localities a sowing may now be made on a sheltered, sunny border. Early Snowball is a good sort for a first venture. On a fine day, with the ground in favourable order, draw out drills 15 inches apart and 1 inch deep. Make the soil very fine before sowing them. Carrots.— To succeed frame-grown Carrots, a few Early Nantes or Early Horn may now be sown. Choose a fine, calm day, when the ground is thoroughly dry. Sow broadcast on beds, aod cover with equal proportions of fine soil and wood ashes. J. JEFFREY. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Eirkcudhnght. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. TURNIP EARLY SNOWBALL. F EW vegetables have found more favour among growers than this. It is medium in size, handsome, and of the best possible qualil}', which is a strong recommendation. The value o£ Snowball at this season is itsearliness, shape, and quality for forcing or frames. I should place Sutton's White Gem before it, but my note does not touch forcing, although I have grown 152 THE GARDEN. [March 11, 1905. TUKNIP EARLY SNOWBALL. Snowball in frames and on hot-beds. Given pro- < teotion in various ways it forces well, but its great merits are as an early root on a sheltered border and for first crop in the open. Grown thus its excellence is seen at a glance ; no other early Turnip is so white, solid, and delicately flavoured. It is very free from coarseness, and poor or badly formed roots are few in number. It is compact in growth, has a short top, and a clean single tap root, which many others have not. Owing to its perfect shape and well-known good eating qualities Snowball is much grown for exhibition. In some gardens Turnips are dis- appointing ; they are sown too early and bolt, and in others the soil needs greater care in culti- vation. I well remember many years ago having a stiff heavy clay soil upon which it was impossible to get early roots, as it could not be got into con- dition, but we had a great quantity of trees and garden refuse. By burning this and placing it on the surface we secured the surface material just suited for the work, and with persistent labour the results well repaid for the cost entailed. In some gardens many growers from February to July sow early varieties, and by so doing get excellent results. It is a good plan, as there is always a succession of usable roots at command, the crop being quickly cleared. The value of such sorts as the one illustrated is then apparent. In the supply of roots for the whole year Snowball WiU play an important part. The first sowing may be made in February and continued till July or August. The old system was to sow in March and in July or August, with the result that the roots were coarse, pithy, or flavourless. What I do advise is frequent sowings, not neces- sarily large ones, and varieties that will keep well into the spring. In our own case we do not despise the yellow-fleshed sorts for use at this season, the must difficult period of the year to bridge over. The value of these roots is better known in the northern parts of the country than the south, and with care they may be had good well into the spring. Where it is not possible to grow Turnips in frames I would advise sowing Snowball on a warm border in well-prepared light rich soil. We made other sowings every month till the end of September, the variety of the last sowing being Golden Bailor Malta. This, though small, keeps | sound in our light soil for some months. For storing there are few better Turnips than Red Globe. When sown in August it will give roots for the winter supply when given cool storage in December. Medium solid roots of the best quality are desired. It will be seen that by sowing as advised there will be no lack of tender roots, and at no greater cost as regards seed, as often this seed is sown much too thickly. There are difficulties in July or earlier in dry years, and it is well to make a larger sowing earlier. A good one in April or May is usually reliable, and again in August or September. Much depends upon the demand, but even in small gardens it is far better to have a regular supply of young fresh roots by sowing more frequently. G. Wytiies. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— I'Ae Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no matterwhat the branch of gardening inay be, and with that object will make a special feature of the ^^ Answers to Correspondents" column. All cojnmunica- tioTis should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on business should be sent to the Poblisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be 07i a separate piece of paper. Names of Plants. — Mac. — Hardenbergia monophylla, a native of Australia. Bradford. — Nidularium Meyendorfii. A. E. S. — Oxalis cernua. Adderhary. — Galanthus plicalus. — Mrs. A. — Galanthus bvzantinus. Ardyour. — Daphne Laureola. B. A. B.— Acacia lineata. The Mimosa of the florists' shops sent in such large quantities from the Riviera is Acacia dealbata. Najies or Froit. — S. Clark. — 1, Bound Winter Nonsuch ; 2, Winter Poach ; ,'J, Lamb Abbey Pearmain ; -t, Easter Beuric. Vior^ET Plants Dying (Tkoriie). — We do not remember ever receiving so many complaints of the failure of Violet plants as we have this winter. We think that in part, at any rate, the trouble must be attributed to a greater prevalence of dense fogs. Nothing is more inimical to the well-doing of the Violet than fog or a close and vitiated atmosphere of any kind. But we think that in the case of the sample received from you some other cause must be held responsible as well. The soil in which the plants were growing appears to be exceedingly poor, and that portion which adhered to the stem was dust - dry, suggesting the thought that drj'ness at the root may have had something to do with the failure. You say there are no wireworms in the soil. The punctured and wounded appearance of the stem gives one the impression that the soil must at one time have contained some destructive insect If the plants are dry at the roots they should receive copious waterings, adding a slight top- dressing of fresh loam and leaf-soil. Give plenty of air night and day while the weather is fine, protecting only from frosts and very rough weather. The full size ol a croquet lawn is 105 feet long by 84 feet wide. The flower sent was Astrantia major. Early Summer Creepers, &c. (Poppy). — Plant in pots or boxes of good soil young plants of Ivy Pelargoniums for trailing, and either procure plants or sow seeds of Tropseolums in variety, Canary Creeper, Lophospermum scan- dens, or even Sweet Peas. These give excellent variety, and are easily managed. A capital plant for later summer is Campanula isophylla alba, and C. i. Mayii is a pale blue form of this. Both are readily obtainable in spring, and ihey last a long time in perfection if cared for in the matter of watering, &c. Marguerites Unsatisfactory {Mac). — It is impossible for us to assign any reason why your Marguerites have behaved in the way stated. Perhaps they were rooted through the bottom of the pot, and in moving them the roots were broken ; yet this can hardly be if, as you say, the roots were not disturbed in any way. The soil cannot be at fault, as the cuttings potted at the same time are doing well. We assume that they were safe from frost, as their behaviour would almost suggest that they had been frosted. Grces on Vines (J. C). — The small white insects which you found on the roots of j'our pot Vines are the grubs of a small two-winged fly. They probably do not do much harm to the roots unless they are present in considerable numbers. They appear to be nearly full grown, as one has become a chrysalis. It is dillicult to suggest any insecticide, as if one were used of sufficient strength to reach and kill the grubs it might injure the roots of the Vines, and if the grubs are just on the point of becoming chrysalides, it is not worth while taking much trouble about them, as thev will then be in a harmless condi- tion.—G. S. 'S^ Preserving Animal Manure Fertility [Sub- scriber).— Professor J. Long, in the article you refer to, is perfectly correct in his statement that farmers, by their methods of treating accumu- lations of animal manure, waste its fertile properties immensely. Market growers about London or other large towns who accumulate large quantities of stable manure in their flelds are just as wasteful. The manure heats, and in so doing liberates ammonia (nitrogen) wholesale, and that escapes into the air. Then, again, other elements of fertility — phosphates and potash — ■ are washed out of the manure by heavy rains. Then, when the manure is spread over the land and buried into it, not less than from 30 per cent, to 40 per cent, of its real fertile properties is lacking. The proper way to treat all animal manure is to house it under mere roofed sheds, turning the heaps frequently so as to prevent fermentation, wetting it well when it becomes dry, and having an asphalte floor with drains leading the waste liquid to a cistern, where it is collected and used. It is a good Makch 1], 1905.J THE GAKDEN. 153 plan at the first of such turnings to mix with the manure artificials at the rate of about lOib. to liilb. per Ion, as the whole soon becomes absorbed in the animal manure. Soot is also good, but not lime, as that liberates ammonia and causes it to escape. It is not wise to bury quite fresh or raw manure into the soil ; much better put it into a heap as advised and keep it turned until well mixed and in a condition of semi-decay. The roots are then so much sooner enabled to utilise it. Stable manure in a fresh state often contains one-half of long straw, and that takes long to decompose. If treated as advised before it is applied to the soil it so much sooner becomes plant food. You can plant your heavily-manured land with shrubs at once, but you may find later that a heavy dressing of manure has been conducive to much coarser growth than you bargained for. Rose Exhibition Boxes {A. B.). — There is no regulation depth for the lid, but it is always advisable to have a good depth — say, about 9 inches — as this allows one to mount the blooms well upon the wire supports, and this is a detail of considerable importance. Every exhi- bitor should also possess a spare box, in order to enable him to carry a number of young blooms should any of those selected expand too much during the journey. A good convenient size is 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 1 foot 3 inches deep. Tubes about 1^ inches in diameter are fastened into the bottom of this spare box. Two, three, or more blooms can be placed into each of these tubes. The standard sizes set up by the National Rose Society are as follows : All boxes must be 4 inches high in front and 18 inches wide. For twenty-four blooms, single trusses, the box should be 3 feet 6 inches long ; for eighteen blooms, single trusses, 2 feet 9 inches long ; for twelve blooms, single trusses, 2 feet long ; for nine blooms, single trusses, 1 foot 6 inches long ; for six blooms, single trusses, 1 foot long ; for eight trebles, the same as for twenty-four singles ; for six trebles, the same as for eighteen singles ; for four trebles, the same as for twelve singles — all outside measurement. For forty-eighty blooms two boxes for twenty-four are used, and for thirty-six blooms one twenty-four box and one twelve box, and so on. Soil for Cypripedium insigne {B. F. JIuU). Cypripedium insigne requires a good retentive compost, such as one made up of two parts good fibrous loam, one part good peat, and one part good Oak leaf-soil. Mix the whole together with some coarse sand and small crocks about the size of Peas to keep the material open. In potting give a good drainage of chopped sterilised rhizomes over one or two bottom crocks. The amount of drainage necessary is best decided by the individual grower ; remember that a well- rooted plant in a small pot does not require so much as a divided piece, or one that has deteriorated would. In the two latter cases half filling the pots will not be too much. When potting keep the soil well below the rim of pot and surface to the depth of 1 inch with live chopped sphagnum put on rather firmly; ' Various Questions (L. W. A.). — 1. Scarify the turf with. a strong iron-toothed rake to remove the moss, then top-dress the, lawn with a mixture of rich soil containing some old manure, a little lime, and, if possible, some wood ashes or charred garden rubbish and soot, at the rate of two barrowfuls of the mixture to the square rod ; spread it evenly, and leave it for a time for the weather to act upon it. In March sow a mixture of grass seed and white Clover, somewhat thickly, and roll. Do not mow till the seeds have made some growth. Skim it over first with the scythe, and afterwards use the machine. If the work is properly done there ought to be a good lawn during summer at a much less cost than breaking it up and resowing. 2. The followiiig hardy plants will be suitable. Dig in some manure or manurial compost, and plant in March Galega officinalis (white and purple), Gaillardia grandi- flora, Erigeron speciosus superbus, Delphiniums in variety, Doronicum austriacum Clusi, Chrysan- themum maximum grandiflorum, C. uliginosuni. Campanulas in variety, Asters Nora Belfie, Arthur Head, A. Snowflake, A. turbinellua elegans. Anemone japonica (pink) and alba (white), Alyssum saxatile, Anchusa italica, Achillea Ptarmica the Pearl, Coreopsis grandi- flora, Gypsophila paniculata, Heleniuni pumilum, Helianthus niultiflorus, Inula glandulosa. Lobelia syphilitica, Lupinus polyphyllus, Papaver orien- tale, and Rudbeckia californica 3. Place leaves in a heap, saturate with water, and cover with soil. Names of Roses (B«%).— Plant Griiss an Teplitz (crimson). Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant (salmon pink), Gloire Lyonnaise (white, lemon centre), W. A. Richardson (orange), and Mme. Plantier (white). Plants for Yard (S. P.)— Hydrangea pani- culata grandiflora, Ceanothus Gloire de Ver- sailles (both shrubs), Lilium croceum, L. parda- linum, Galtonia candicans (white). Sweet Peas (sow seeds now), and Nicotiana Sandero3(sow now). Potting Bench {B. T. £.).— Have it i feet high and 3 feet wide, of deal wood 1 inch thick. The top must be planed. The price would depend upon the length you require. It would not be much, however. You had better get a local carpenter to supply it. Moss IN Lawn {B. L. S.).—This is generally a sign of poor soil, and sometimes shows that the latter needs draining. First well rake the surface to stimulate the growth of the grass and to draw out as much moss as possible. Yes, wood ashes mixed with soil as a top-dressing would do good ; it contains potash. We do not think you could buy wood ashes. If you have not enough wood ashes why not purchase a little special lawn manure. Some two or three weeks after top-dressing grass seeds should be sown. They will fill up the lawn and prevent the growth of moss. Creeper for Window Box (Junior).— You could not plant anything more suitable than the small-leaved Virginian Creeper (Ampelopsis Veitchii) if you want a permanent climber. If you are satisfied with annuals. Sweet Peas would make a very good display if you gave them manure when well rooted. We should advise your trying these this season. Sow now. Clematis Jackmani would probably do well also. A Perfect Tree Carnation Soil [MonlU). — The best compost for Tree Carnations is a medium clay loam, the top spit of an old meadow, or any grass land. This should be taken from a heap that has been stacked up for about six months. To four parts of loam add one of decayed stable manure and one of leaf-mould, with some ground oyster shells. I do not know if Carnation soil has been analysed, at least I do not find any analysis in the Carnation manuals published in England and America. — J. D. Sterilising Soil for Carnations (Faust).— The steam to sterilise the soil can only be supplied by a boiler of some kind. The steam is carried under the soil by inch pipes, holes are drilled into the pipes at 8 inches apart, and short pieces of pipe have to be fixed to these holes with sockets. The openings must be at the sides of the pipes. The ends of the pipes furthest from the boiler are to be stopped. When the steam is turned on the apparatus will sterilise about 8 inches on each side of the pipe. The pipes should be about 8 inches under ground, and the steam will raise the temperature of the soil in the vicinity of the pipe to 200" Fahr. The steam should blow into the pipes for about twenty-five to thirty minutes. When this portion is heated remove the pipe to another part of the soil until it is all heated. Some persons heat a good sized copper and fill this with soil, and keep a fire under until the desired tempera- ture is obtained ; but this, of course, to a con- siderable extent impairs the fruitfulness of the soil by destroying the nitrifying bacteria neces- sary to plant growth. None of the successful Carnation growers sterilise their composts in this country. It is done in America, where enormous quantities are grown on benches for cut flowers, and can be easily carried out where the houses are heated by steam. The soil is covered with a coating of sacks, or any thick material of the same kind, to keep the heat in. Unless this was done the surface soil would not be heated suffi- ciently. I advise "Faust" not to trouble him- self with the steaming process ; it does not seem worth doing, unless, by way of experiment, to ascertain whether the results were better from steamed or unsteamed compost. — .J. D. Laying out Garden (^1/. H. GilleU).—\. Yes, you might use China Roses or the Scotch Rose, Gloire des Polyantha (rose), Coralliua (coral red), or Mme. L. Messimy (rosy pink). If you have China Roses plant the common pink and crimson in a double row, the plants 15 inches apart. 2. Against the wall plant Roses Reine Marie Henriette, W. A. Richardson, Gloire de Dijon, Prunus triloba, Jasminum nudiflorum, Chimo- nanthus fragrans. Wistaria sinensis, Pyrus japonica, and Ceanothus veitchianus. The Wis- taria or Rose Reine Marie Henriette would cover the slates. 3. Rose for Laburnum : Mme. Alfred Carriere (white). 4. In addition to those you mention Spireea Aruncus, Michaelmas Daisies, and Helianthus. 5. Yes, those you mention would do, also Antennaria and Achillea, both with grey foliage, Christmas Roses, Pinks, Saxifragas, bulbs of sorts, as Daffodils, Snowdrops, Scillas, &c. Lawn and Red Spider (A'. Y. Z.). — To destroy red spider (which is evidently what your plants are infested with) syringe with the following solution : To ilb. of flowers of sulphur and lib. of fresh lime, boiled in two gallons of water, add afterwards Jib. of soft soap, and when all is well mixed add 2 gallons more water. If your lawn is very rough apply sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda, mixed together in equal quantities, at the rate of lib. per rod of land. It is better to mix the manure with four times its bulk of soil a fortnight before using. The application of this forces the growth of grasses and clears out Clovers and keeps down Dandelions, ifeo. If you give a good dressing, then sow some good seed, and attend well to mowing and rolling, the lawn should improve. If not, next autumn you should relay the worst of it with good turf, or else turn it over, level, and sow in spring with the best seed. Dendroeium nobile (B. F. Hull). — A good compost consists of two-thirds good sphagnum chopped up a little and one-third good fibrous peat which has had the dusty parts taken from it, mixed together with a fair quantity of coarse sand and small crocks. Ordinary pots are prefer- able to those that have side holes. Place a few crocks over the bottom, and fill the pots to the depth of one-third with chopped rhizomes in the case of healthy plants, using more if they are otherwise. If the moss used in the compost is good no more need be added in surfacing, but on no account should you ever surface with dead moss. Guano as Manure (J. G. R.). — Several manures are sold under the name of guano, and unless we know the true quality of what you have it is difficult to say in what proportion it should be applied to the ground. True Peruvian guano, now a scarce article, is a good dressing at 51b. per rod ; but of native guano the dressing should be 151b. per rod at least. It is a pity you have not had the ground dug during the winter. Your best course will be at once to have it deeply dug to enable the air to sweeten 154 TUE GARDEN. [March 11, 1905. it. Then a few days later distribute over the surface the guano at the rate of from 51b. to Gib. per rod, and have it well forked in so as to mix it with the soil. . Eich of the crops named needs manure liberally; but Celery may, when trenches are prepared, receive an additional dressing of guano strewn along the trenches and well mixed before planting. Most of these artificial manures need several weeks to enable them to decompose before they can be utilised by the roots of crops. Poultry Manure (C. L.). — This material has very high fertilising properties, and applied fresh is hot and apt to injure roots of plants. The best way to deal with it is, as it gradually accumulates, to mix with it just about double its bulk of soil, obtained from any outer source or from the garden. Let it lie in a heap for some two or three months, using as needed from the end of the heap longest accumulated. During the lying the soil absorbs and equalises the manure's fertility, and is not therefore applied too strong. We like to mix liberal dustings of soot with the heap as now and then turned to secure complete absorbtion as these help to destroy infe^.t life. Poultry manure owes much of its fertility to the fact that fowls are so largely fed on corn, hence it is rich in phosphates ; pigeon manure is equally so. Its chief defect is absence of fibrous matter, such as is found plenti- fully in stable manure. So treated use it for any plants moderately. Birds and Fruit-buds (TF. S. F.). — As the birds have already done such mischief to your fruit trees and bushes by destroying the fruit and leaf-buds, nothing of any use can be done to avert the harm now. May you not use a gun to shoot or frighten the depredators, doing that in the early morning ? The best course for all pur- poses is to obtain a quantity of small mesh fish netting, and so cover all trees and bushes as soon as the leaves have fallen. No protection is so good. Failing the netting get some dry clay, mix with it paraffin and soft soap, and to half a pint of paraffin and lib. of soft soap, with enough clay to thicken, add 5 gallons of water. With that very gently syringe the trees and bushes, and at once, whilst damp, smother them with fresh-sUked lime or soot, or both, so as to coat the buds and make them nasty. This dressing may need repeating after heavy rains, and is at the best but a palliative. We know from experience that birds' mischief is very trying and destructive. Weak Pot Vine {R. M. G.).— Your Black Hamburgh Vine in a pot 8^ inches broad will not fruit in the pot, or, indeed, would not do so in a larger pot except reall3' good loamy soil could be furnished to it. Even then you would have to cut the Vine close to the soil, and thus compel it to make an entirely new and much stouter rod than IS the present one. Of course, that rod would not produce fruit until next year. If you pur- pose planting the Vine out into a border, shake the loots free from the soil of the pot and open them out flatwise. Uj not plant deeply ; ther,jots need not be more than 3 inches buried. The soil of the border should be composed of good stiff old pasture loam, just a little old hot-bed manure, some wood ashes, mortar refuse, and finely crushed bone. A sprinkling of soot may be added. Plant as soon as pn'sible ; then a fortnight after plant- ing cut the Vine down to within 12 inches of the toil, and thus compel it to make a new rod this season. A border 4 feet square will do for the first jear. ViOLKTs Unsatisfactoky (A. p., Newport). — We have read your letter and carefully looked over the sample of plants sent. The remedy we would suggest, in the first place, is to dig up the old plants early in April. Shake all the soil off, and then select the best and strongest offshoots (from the old plants), with some roots attached if possible, and plant about 4 inches apart in soil prepared as for cuttings. Plant iheni deep enou»h for the base of the young offjet to be slightly embedded in the soil, as it is from the base that the best roots will form. Choose a sheltered and shady position and plant them firmly. The young plants should be syringed over two or three times a day during warm weather until they are well rooted, which should be in about a month. As soon as you are satisfied that they are well enough rooted they should be replanted in a shaded border facing east, and the soil in which they are planted should have a dressing of leaf-soil, a little short manure, and also a good sprinkling of lime. They should be planted in rows 15 inches apart, and the same distance between plant and plant in the row. By careful treatment during the summer in the way of watering, hoeing, and taking the runners off after the plants are established (which they will be towards the end of July), you should then have strong sturdy plants by the end of September, which will give a fine supply of flowers throughout the autumn, winter, and early spring. The chief cause of the failure of your plants is, we think, attributable to the severe attack of red spider. The roots appear strong and healthy. The best plan to adopt to secure immunity from this enemy in future is to dip the young offsets (root and branch) two or three times over in a strong solution of Gishurst Compound as soon as they are cut from the parent plant and before planting. The red spider must be killed or the plants will do no good. They should be planted on new ground a good distance away from where they were grown before, and a look out must be kept up during the summer for its reappearance, and the plants syringed with the insecticide both over and under the leaf as soon as suspected. It would be better if you could start with a clean new stock. Cleansing Apple Tree Stems (C. W. F.). — There are so many different insects which affect Apple trees that diverse methods of dealing with them are needful. The worst enemy probably is the caterpillar of the winter moth, which in the summer preys on the leaves, and sometimes destroys them entirely. The best remedy for that is, early in October, to tie tightly round the stems of each tree, just above the ground, bands of stout brown paper 9 inches deep, and coat them with coarse grease, keeping this soft and fresh for three months. By that means the female insect is trapped as it seeks to ascend the trees to deposit its eggs. The codlin moth deposits its eggs in the blooms before they expand. Spray- ing with Paris green solution just before the blooms open is the best remedy. Another serious Apple pest is the woolly aphis or American blight. Scrub it out from the stems with hot soapy water, then work in the places infested either paraffin and clay or methylated spirit. To remove moss and lichen, make up in Novem- ber a pasty wash of lime-white, soot, clay, and soft soap, and well coat the stems of the trees and the branches as high up as can be reached, then syringe the shoots with the same mixture. It is getting rather late to spray the heads now, as the flower-buds will soon be opening, but the stems so far as can be reached may be done. Plants for Alpine House (Hindhead). — We fear it is ton late in the season to begin prepara- tions now for alpines to flower this spring unless plants already established in pots are obtained from one or other of the well-known specialists. For working up a stock of plants for the purpose we may advis-e you to choose from the list given below, in which many will be found of great interest and diversity. Almost all alpines in- tended to flower in an alpine house are grown in pots or pans, and are kept plunged in cold frames or prepared beds out of doors until the buds are forming, when they are brought into the green- house to flower, after which they are returned to iheir growing quarters. In some cases they may be pUnted out and carefully lifted at the proper time. It does not answer to keep the plants under glass throughout the year. Seedlings are raised more easily under glass, but should be pricked off or potted singly as early as possible and placed out of doors, first under a close frame, and later in full exposure, only being protectee! from heavy storms. Practically it is a little diffi- cult to use the alpine house for a summer display unless there is sufiicient accommodation elsewhere for growing a succession of flowering plants, but it might with good management be made very gay and interesting with half-hardy annuals (or plants treated as annuals) of various kinds, or, possibly, as a flowering place for Lilies or pot Carnations. JAnemone (A. apennina, A. blanda, A. fulgens, &c. ), ];alpine Auriculas, 'Aubrietia. 'Campanulas, *Cheiranthus (C. alpinus and others), tCorbularias, tCrocus species (C. Im- perati and others), JCyclamens (C. Coum, C. ibericum, C. repandum, c&c), tFritillarias (notably F. aurea), flris (I. Heldreichii, I. pumila, I. reticulata, etc.), JMegaseas, "Myosotis, 'Orobus, *Primulas (a large number of beautiful species), ^Saxifrages (S. burseriana major, &c. ), *Symphy- andra Wanneri. [* Indicates those that may be raised from seed without artificial heat, t Those which are best purchased as plants or bulbs. { Those where either method is available.] Mushrooms in the Open Garden (W. Whetton). — Mushrooms have occasionally been obtained by digging in manure from hot-beds and other heaps which have become impregnated with spawn, but, if you want to realise a profit from Mushroom culture, you must make up beds with stable manure which has been sweetened and prepared by turning and intermixing for eight or ten days, sheltered from rain. The manure must come from a stable where the horses have hard food and straw litter is used. If the manure is fresh there will be some economy in time and material by mixing one-fifth of loam with the manure, blending the whole together. The usual course for open-air culture is to make the bed it* the form of a ridge, 3 feet wide at the base and 2)s feet high, the top to be made cone-shaped, and the whole built in firmly in layers. If you have a rough frame the bed may be made there 15 inches deep and be covered with shutters or straw mats. In this case also the bed must be made firm. As soon as the beds are made place in a thermometer or watch-slick, and cover with mats or long litter. The temperature can be regulated ami kept under control by the depth of covering. When the temperature of the bed is steady at something like 85° — a degree or two will not matter — break up the spawn into pieces 2 inches in diameter, and insert just under the surface of the bed 8 inches apart. Beat down firm, and place on the covering again ; examine daily, and if the heat keeps steady the spawn will throw out white threads or filaments, and then 1| inches of loam should be placed on the surface and beaten down with the back of the spade firm and smooth. Have a pail of water near, and dip in the spade occasionally to leave a smooth surface. In due course Mushrooms will appear. Propagating Paradise Stocks {Viridii). — While it may be possible to root cuttings of the broad-leaved or English Paradise stock, it ia always a matter of difficulty. Experience has shown that all members of the Apple family rarely make root as cuttings in the same way that shoots of Currants and Gooseberries will. If you do try to root shoots, select pieces of last year's growth, make the cuttings 8 inches long, and disbud all eyes except the top one. In plant- ing in good garden soil — not necessarily highly manured — bury the cutting fully 6 inches deep, putting sharp sand in the bottom of the furrow to help the root-action if any be formed. It ia recommended that a very small piece of the old or previous year's growth be taken off with each cutting. Generally Paradise stocks are grown for our home nurseries in France. They are propagated by means of layers. Old shoots headed hard down, as Nut trees are in woods, send up yearly a quantity of suckers, and these are bent down and layered, causing them to make roots freely. March 11, 1905.] THE (lAKDEN. IX. Chrysantiikmums (Chrynanths). — Begin the propagation of your late-flowering ..Chrysanthe- mams forthwith. Insert the cuttings and get them rooted quickly. -. By pinching out the tip of the shoots a branching is developed. Take up, as a rule, three shoots from the first pinching, and at each successive 8 inches of growth again pinch the shoots as advised already. Pinch the jilants for the last time about the second week in July, anil from this point grow on the resulting shojls to the terminal buds. Thin out the?e latter to one or two buds on each shoot, and feed the plants when they are well rooted in their flowering-pots. Place the plants under glass about mid October, and keep the glass structure quite cool and well ventilated. Warm the hot-water pipes sutficieiitly to prevent damp from settling in the opening blooms. Western King, H. J. GlUingham (primrose pport from the former), Winter Qaeen, Princess Victoria (white), and the pink and t'olden yellow .sports from this variety, Allnnn's Yellow, Lord Brooke, Tuxedo, Mme. Felix Perrin, Mma. Charvet, Violet Lidy Bdaumont, and Red L Ginning are all good and reliable late-flowering varieties. Of the exhibi- tion sorts you name, the following should make late flowering decorative plants : Mme. Cadbury, Jlme. Paolo Ridaelli, Mrs. Swinburne, and Mrs. J. 0. Neville. The pink sort you have seen in the shops is either A. J. Bilfour or Mme. Felix Perrin. We cannot say what the yellow sort is. A good new late-flowering yellow Japanese is M irket Gold. Twelve Chrysanthemums to Bloom in September and Early October ( IF. M.). — The subjoined list of early-flowering garden Chrysan- themums represents twelve of the best sorts at present in commerce. The selection is confined to varie' ies of Japanese origin, but if you would like a short list of good Pompon sorts and some of the newer early-flowering singles, on hearing from you to this effect we will at once give one. Horace Martin, bright yellow, very fine branching habit ; Carrie, a rich yellow, dwarf habit — the flowers in this instance are of beautiful form ; Polly, a fine, large bronzy yellow, good sturdy grower ; Rosie, beautiful bronzy terra-cotta, branching habit ; Ralph Curtis, creamy white, ideal branching habit ; Rocket, a charming chestnut bronze, free flowering, and bushy ; Howard H. Crane, chestnut crimson, golden centre and reverse, bushy habit ; Nina Blick, rich crimson bronze, sturdy grower ; Kitty, a pretty pink flower, very dwarf habit, and a persistent bloomer ; Rabis, a pretty purplish claret ; Goacher's Crimson, a deep rich crimson, sturdy grower, good habit, free flowering ; and Improved Masse, a grand new mauve-pink flower of splendid quality and of good habit. The fore- going dozen sorts embrace an excellent range of colours. Romneya Codlteri (R. L.). — It is true that this Calitoruian Tree Poppy does not flower on the old wood ; but fresh side-shoots are thrown out from the old stems which bear blossom. However, plants on which the old wood is allowed to remain year after year generally lose in vigour, and many eventually die. For a year or two specimens in which the old wood is not cut away are often striking examples, 9 feet or 10 feet in height, but rarely remain in robust health for a longer time, whereas, where the growth is restricted to the annual shoots, vigour is well maintained year after year. The best time to cut away the old wood, which should be entirely removed, is when the young growths pushed up up from the base have attained a length of from 6 inches to 9 inches. The Romneya foliage is often much disfigured by caterpillars, which should be sought for at night with a lamp. OBITUARY. QUESTION. Vaporite. — If any of your readers could give me any information about Vaporite I should be much obliged. — A. B. Albright. PATRICK NEILL FRASER. ANY readers of The Garden will regret to learn of the death of Mr. Patrick Neill Eraser, which took place suddenly at his beautiful resi- dence, Rockville, MurraytieU, E lin- burgh, on the 27th ult. Mr. Neill Fraser was all his life a devoted gardener, and in the Scottish capital and in the almost world-wide circle of horticulturists, to whom he was known either personally or bj' correspondence, he was held in the highest respect — a respect thoroughly earned by his urbanity, his kindly spirit to ail who had similar tastes, and his unfailing desire to advance the interests of horticulture. It must have surprised many to find how Mr. Fraser, who was at the head of one of the most extensive business enterprises of Edinburgh, could find time to make himself so well acquainted with plants and to keep so thoroughly in touch with the introductions of the day. Those who had the privilege of visiting Rockville, where he was ever ready to welcome anyone of like tastes, soon saw how much his methodical business iiabits contributed to the finding of leisure for his gar- dening. His note-books were models of their kind for purposes of reference, and he could in a minute or two turn to references regarding any plants in which he was interested, either in the many volumes which his extensive botanical and horticultural library contained or in his books of cuttings from the leading horticultural journals. In his garden the same methodical habits were observable. The garden at Rockville is inter- esting and beautiful. For many years Rockville has been noted for its tender and hardy Ferns. Recently Mr. Fraser dispersed the bulk of his collection of tender Ferns, some of which were exceedingly fine specimens, but retained the FUmy Ferns. The hardy Ferns at Rockville form probably the finest collection in Scotland, and include many choice and little-known forms. Alpine plants have been for many years favourites with Mr. Neill Fraser, and his rockeries and the more recently-formed Japanese garden are filled with many good plants. Mr. Neill Fraser paid much attention to the Polyanthuses in order to secure improved varieties, mainly white and yellow forms. Mr. Neill Eraser's horticultural tastes led him to take a warm interest in various societies for the promotion of botany and horti- culture. Among his work of this kind may be mentioned that in connexion with the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, of which he was for a good many years honorary treasurer. Mrs. Neill Fraser and family have the sympathy of many gardeners in their bereavement. S. A. JAMES EPPS, JUN. We regret to record the death of Mr. James Epps, jun. , of Norfolk House, Beulah Hill, which took place recently in Jamaica. Mr. Epps left England shortly before Chrismas on a visit to his Cacao estates, also for the purpose of recruiting his health. He had visited Trinidad, and, by way of finishing his tour, had arrived at Jamaica, intending to leave for home on March 7. Par- ticulars as to Mr. Epps's illness and death will not be available until the arrival of the West Indies mail. Mr. Epps was an ardent lover and liberal patron of horticulture. He was much interested in the culture of economic plants, and for many years had been successful in cultivating and fruiting the Cacao tree in his conservatories it Beulah Hill. He was vice-president for a number of years of the local Chrysanthemum S jciety, was a winner of several medals and certificates, and the donor annually of a silver cup for amateurs. Mr. Epps had occupied the position for two years of president of the Croydon Nitural History and Scientific Society ; he was also a member of the Linnsean and of the Royal Horticultural Societies. On several occasions we have published most interesting notes and illus- trations, contributed by Mr. Epps, of his economic plants at Norwood. ALEXA.NDER DRUMMOND. -Many connected with the fruit-growing industry in Scotland will regret to learn of the death of Mr. Alexander Drummond, Burnside, Wester Foulis, N. B. , which took place on February 2.5, at the age of 6.3. Mr. Drummond, who also acted as overseer on the Wester Foulis estate of of Sir Patrick Keith Murray, Birt. , of Ochter- tj're, was for many years engaged in fruit-growing and other branches of horticulture. He was a most successful competitor at the large horticul- tural shows, such as that of Dundee, where he generally took a high place. DANIEL M'ONISH. Mr. Daniel M'Onish, seedsman and nursery- man, Crieff, died very suddenly at his resi- dence, Croftenappoch, on February 26 Mr. M'Onish, who was an elder in the North United Free Church, attended forenoon service there, and at that time was in his usual health. On his return home he partook of dinner, afterwards retiring, as was his wont, for a short rest. He became suddenly unwell, and by the time medical aid could be procured lite was found to be extinct. Mr. M'Onish was very highly respected by all in the district, his quiet and unassuming nature making him a general favourite. He is survived by Mrs. M'Onish and a family, for whom much sympathy is felt in their sudden loss. LATE NOTES. A mag'niflcent prize.— The National Potato Society has secured a magnificent prize for its show at the Horticultural Hall on Novem- ber 23 and 24 this year, through the enterprise of Messrs. James Carter and Co., the famous Holborn seedsmen, and Mr. A. Findlay, the great Scottish raiser. Conjointly Messrs. Carter and Findlay offer a splendid silver challenge cup, value £50, and £12 in cash, for twelve dishes of Potatoes. Full particulars are given in the schedule, copies of which may now be had on application to the secretary, Mr. Walter P. Wright, Postling, Hvthe. Altogether, prizes to the value of nearly £200 are offered. Proposed Henry Eckford testi- monial.— A suggestion has been made to present a testimonial to Mr. Henry Eckford, in recognition of his great services to floriculture, particularly directed of late years towards the improvement of the Sweet Pea. Rhubarb Crimson vnnter. — On page 122 " R. D. " refers favourably to this newly- introduced Rhubarb. As yet it is little known, but we believe it will be generally grown in the near future. We planted imported crowns of it two seasons ago in the spring, which produced plenty of leaf-stalks the following autumn, and, of course, more strongly the one following when well established. Eirly supplies of Rhubarb are welcome, but many do not attempt to force English crowns in small gardens, because, not only is the fermenting material required not available, but also where it is, its presence in close proximity to the dwelling proves objectionable. The above variety, therefore, will prove doubly welcome in such instances, when gatherings may be had without the labour of forcing. Although it maybe rightly termed perpetual, fresh growth towards winter is checked by inclement weather, therefore, a sheltered position should be selected for planting, and temporary protection afforded should the condition oi the weather require its use.— B.P. THE GARDEN. f March 11, 1905. BOOKS. Flora and Sylva. — The second volume of this beautiful book, edited and published bj- Mr. W. R jbinson, is eveo more interesting than the first one, which has given so much pleasure and instruction to garden lovers. No money seems to have been spared to make Flora and Sylva the most sumptuous monthly periodical of the day. It is printed on hand-made paper, and with each part two coloured plates are given of new or rare plants, while the wood engravings are a positive delight. This volume is dedicated to the memory of the late Dsan of Rochester, Samuel Pveynolds Hole, a graceful tribute to a great gardener. The articles are varied, but the editor shows his strong love for trees and shrubs by devoting much of the space to their description and the best wa3's of planting them. "The Greater Trees of the Northern Forest" is con- tinued, and the first contribution to the present volume describes the beautiful Tulip tree, with an engraving of the famous specimen at Esher Place in Surrey. The volume teems with exqui- site garden scenes, and the coloured plates by H. G. Moon are perfect portraits of the flowers they represent — CEiiothera speciosa var. rosea. Rhododendron Stnithi aureum, Lycaste Mary Gratrix, Magnolia parviBora, Nicotiana Sanders, Gloriosa rothschildiana, and Magnolia Campbelli in particular. Flora and Sylva is published at Is. monthly, and the bound volume is a hand- some gift book to a gardening friend. It is pub- lished at 17, Furnival Street, London. The Book of the Rose.— We are not surprised that a third edition of this practical book about Roses has been called for. It was pissing through the press when its author, the Rev. A. Foster-Melliar, Rector of Sproughton, Suff jlk, was seized with sudden illness and died, to the intense regret of a wide circle of Rose growers. In this edition the book has been thoroughly revised, and this is necessary in these days when new varieties are constantly appearing, sometimes to be once seen and no more, and Bonetimes to thrust old favourites aside. If there is a blemish it is the absence of practical illustrations, showing, for instance, the way to prune and plant a Pv ise. Diagrams are most helpful. A hundred pages of explanation will not convey so much as one well-drawn explana- tory diagram. It is published by Messrs. M icmillan and Co., price 04. A Gardener's Year.— This is a book we can cordially recommend to the amateur gardener who i'j interested in the records of an observant mind and a keen lover of Nature and the garden. There is not a page without its pleasantly described experience of the Feasor the Potatoes, or the Orchids in the warm green- house, though we think the author, Mr. Rider Haggard, would have done well to have restrained his enthusiastic admiration for the Orchids and their history in the sale - room. M my of the notes are of considerable prac- ticil value, and we are pleased to know that Mr. Higgard appreciates an Apple which has been frequently praised in the pages of The Gardem. This is the variety James Grieve, and the author's opinion is that of our own ; it is an excellent Apple. He is writing of a visit paid, towards the end of September, to a friend in Cambridgeshire, in whose house he made his "first acquaintance with an Apple, which I thought delicious, and, indeed, at first imagined to be one of the finest Canadian sorts. It is named Jamas Grieve, and came from Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., who say of it in their catalogue that it is 'one of the beat Apples recently introduced, and may be styled an early Cox's Orange.' They stale also that it is of fine flavour and appearance, comes from Scotland, succeeds where Cox's is tender, and is a remark- ably good bearer. The specimens that I ate off some pyramids, which have done well on this chalk soil, were large in size, of an orange-green colour, with a red flush, and a sharpish flavour of Pippin and Pine-apple. I recommend ray readers to try this Apple, as I mean to do myself." The book is illustrated from photo- graphs taken in the author's garden, and is well printed. The publishers are Messrs. Longmans, Green, and Co., and the price is 12^. GJ. net. SOCIETIES. BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. Is addition to those previously reported, meetings in connexion with the above have been held : At Croydon, under the auspices of the Croydon and District liorti- cultural Mutual Improvement Society, on the 2l3t ult. ; the proposal, adjourned from a previous meeting, to form a local branch of the British Gardeners' Association was again brought forward, with the result that it was resolved that a branch should be formed. Mr. \V. Rowson (head gardener Falkland Park Gardens, South Norwood Hill) was appointed local secretary, and all local gardeners interested in the association are requested to communicate with him. At Plymouth, on the 25Lh ult., under the auspices of tlieWestof England Chrysanthemum Society, over a hundred local gardeners being present, the meeting was addressed by Mr. C. H. Curtis as a delegate from the association. A discussion followed, after whicli Mr. A. J. G. Chalice (nurseryman), Plymouth, moved, and Mr. W. Selley (head gardener Delamore Gardens), Corn- wood, seconded, "That a branch of the British Gardeners' Association be formed in Plymouth, to be known as the Plymouth and District Branch of the British Gardeners' Association," and this was carried unanimously. Sir. \V. S. E. Chohvili (head gardener Lukesland), Ivybridge, was appointed local secretary, and all those wishing to join the association were requested to communicate with him. Over fifty members of the audience responded to the request there and then. A meeting of the committee of the Yorkshire branch was held at Leeds on the 2.')th ult. Amongst other business it was res )lved that the committee meet monthly, special meetings to be convened by circular, and that a small sub-committee be appointed to consider any doubtful applications for membership. A circular-letter drawn up by the secretary was adopted, with slight alterations, and 1,000 copies were ordered to be printed and circulated, together with the plea, pros- pectus, and form of application, among the gardeners throughout the county. WARGRAVE AND DISTRICT GARDEN'ER?' ASSOCIATION. The committee are sorry to have to chronicle a great falling off in the number of ordinary members, and also to record the death of Mr. J. W. Keeley, a very premising and useful member. It is true a large number of the names which appeared on last year's list have been struck off during the past year owing to the men having left the neighbourhood, but at the same time their places have been filled by newcomers who have not yet joined the ranks of the association. It is young gardeners especially that the society would welcome, for in these days Ci activity and bustle the gardener must be up and doing and keep to the front in all matters that affect his calling, .'^cience has made rapid strides in horticulture as well as in other branches, and if gardeners would keep abreast of the times they must meet together, interchange ideas, and talk over difficulties, successes, and failures. Here the Mutual Improvement Society lends a helping hand, and it is hoped that each member will do his utmost to obtain new members, amateur or professional, in the coming year. The meetings during the past year have been well attended, with few exceptions when the weather was bad, and those in the summer months of June, July, ami August were discontinued, as the experience of former years showed that members found it dilljculb to attend them. LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. A MEETING was held on the 4th inst. at Victoria Street, Liverpool, Mr, T. Foster in the chair. The lecture was on the Peach, and given by Mr. B. Ashton of The Gardens, Lathom. The essayist gave a short outline of its intro- duction to this country, and remarked that good fruits had been produced outside in this as well as many other parts of the country. The purpose of his paper was that with proper culture this satisfactory system might still be continued, as showing the need of a proper foundation. The most approved forms of borders, drainage, and material were described. It was not advisable to mix manures with the compost, but a dressing as a mulching after planting was highly desirable as a protection from severe frosts and evaporation. Protection was considered necessary, especially during the flowering period, this being by means of canvas connected with strings to be run up on wires fastened to the tops of the wall. A comparison as to shortening the growths or leaving them the full length was decided in favour of the latter. Pruning, disbudding, laying in of the laterals, syringing, watering, and general culture were submitted in detail. To complete the culture of the Peach indoor cultivatinn was included, the type of house having movable lights if possible, so that the full air might be given after the ripening of the crops, was recommended. The best means of prevention and cure of insect pests were described, with a list of the most approved kinds for cultivation. A cood discussion followed, in which Messrs. Joseph Stoney, G. F. Hazleton, R W, Ker, H. Enbank, the chairman, and others took part. A cordial vote of thanks to Mr. Aiihton for his admirable paper and Mr. Foster for presiding terminated the proceedings. INDEX, Answers to correspondents Cirnatiuns, non-bursting Correspondence Daffodils, a simple arrangement of (illustrated) ... Editor's table Furthcoming events Kruit garden, tlie Gardeners, prizes for Gardening for beginners Gardening of the week Garrya eiliplica (illustrated) Kitchen garden, the Notes of the week Orcliard trees, slaking and protecting (illustrated) Peach tree Dr. Ilogg, in flower (illusLraled) Peas, gaiden Rose garden, the Rose Tea Kambler Roses, how to prune (illustrated) Trees and shrubs .. Turnip Early Snowball (illustrated) * ... PAOB 152 146 144 140 149 142 148 142 160 161 148 161 142 145 146 141 147 148 147 148 161 *,* The Yearly Subscription to THE Gaui>en in: Inland^ fli. Cd. ; Foreign, Si. 9d. ^"^"ENGLEHEART" DAFFODIL CLASSES Made In threi Sizes, in Whita Glass. Height Oh inches ... Price 9s, per dozen. ,, 9" ,, ... „ lis. ,, M 12 ,, ... M 15s. Sii>n;le of Small Size, post free, Is. Designed by the'Rev. G. H EnGLEHEART, the well- known raiser and exiiibitor of Daliodiis. Specia.1 Advanta.g:es: rLAIN CVLINDRICAL FORM. STABILITY, AND FACILITY OF CLEANSING. These glasses are especially useful for the exhibition stage and are also suitable for the house. The largest size will hold securely several Peonies or other top-heavy blossoms. Sole Makkrs— also of the celebrated *'MJNSTEAD" FLOWER CLASSES- ~ JAS. GREEN Sc NEPHEW, CHINA AND CLASS MANUFACTURERS, 107, Queen Victoria &t , London, E.G. mimtl PLANT SUPPORT Tliisis simple, clTcctivc. economical, indcitnictil'le. Uprijilits aud Kiiics separate, but easily put together for use, nr detaclied for storinjj. Expand- inff Rings when desired. Originally desig'ncd for " Tree" Carnations, these are now made in sizcsand in slrength to suit every kind of plant, from 6ft. to 6in. high for Sweet Peas Chrysanthemums, Dalilias, and P.^conies. itc. They have already met with appreciation, as will be seen b- the following extract from a letter from Mr. pcckwith. the celebrated wintcr-flowerhig Carnation Gruwer : — " Hoddesdon, Hcrt«;. Feb. i^th, 1905. " The last sampie {No. 5) seems to me about as perfect as can bcfi>r ourpurnose, and wo can use an imnicnic number of that, ancl also'of the smaller size ( No. 3). It is a pity I diii not know you sooner, as I bought 50,000 4ft. Bamboos last year, and one does not want to make a large outay if not in actual need. However, to start with, you may send ns on 4.000 of the larger (No. 5) and 2.0J0 of the sm.iUcr iNo. 3). -Signed, G. BECKWITH." Also cheap wire baskets for Asparagus Sprcngcri. For Samples of 3 sizes, post free i/-. and for prices, apply to— B n. WHITMEE & CO.. Birchwoosl Park Nurseries, SWANLEY, KENT. pVERYTHING FOR THE GARDEN. I— -* Inquiries solicitei. Ten acres beautiful plants. — Treseder & Co., Nurseries, Truro. POR GARDEN SEEDS.— Purest and -L most reliable that money can buy.— Treseder & Co., The Cornish Seedsmen, Truro. T7OR IS. 6d. TRESEDER & CO., Seeds- -T men, Truro, will send post free twelve packets choice Flower, six packets Vegetable Seeds, and a r.I'.C, with view of their tropical garden. 5/- Monthly. Sample £10 10 Cycle for Cash, £4 I5i Dunlop Tyres, Free Wlicel |, is advertisement), carriage paid. Cyo es £2 10 to £15 15. Agents wantcl llig Ct>nunissii.in. Lial free. Dcrchani Road Cycle Cu., Norwich, <^tey- GARDEN -^5?= 4^5^ No. 1739. -Vol. LXVII. AIakch 18, 1905. ENGLISH z' AMERICAN APPLES. A GOOD deal of interest has been aroused by a note that appeared in The Garden for January 14 last with reference to this sub- ject. Mr. George Bunyard, in a lecture delivered to the members of the Maidstone Farmers' Club, is reported to have instituted a comparison between British and Colonial Apples, saying that the latter are better suited for dessert on account of their peculiar sweetness. He suggested, in view of this, that home growers should pay more attention to producing good kitchen Apples Since this note appeared we have published several letters for and against Mr. Bunyard's statement, and in view of the importance of the subject we give others below : I QDITE agree with all you claim for the Newtown Pippin — its iafinite superiority over any Apple we have in England, not excepting the Ribston Pippin. Bat what 1 note in this connexion is that the Newtown Pippin of the present day is woefully inferior to the Newtown Pippin of old. I speak of the Apple received from the States some eighty 3'ears ago under that name, and I fail to find anything in quality equal to the old style ; indeed, though I have sought for it diligently, I liave failed to find a Newtown Pippin at all approaching what we used to receive in the days of my boyhood. I can only conclude that the old stock by one system of hybridising or other is well-nigh extinct, giving place to what is now foisted upon us under the old cognomen. The Newtown Pippin of to-day is a downright fraud. All the comparative trash now received from the States is dubbed a Newtown Pippin, and is as inferior as chalk is to cheese. Your correspondents seem to know something about the matter, and will they inform your readers where a veritable Newtown Pippin is to be bought. — Kew. I HAVE read Mr. Engleheart's article on "English V. American Apples" with much interest, as I have not yet succeeded in getting any English Apple worthy of the table after November, and with the exception of Cockle's Pippin, which is a refreshing Apple, have to rely entirely on American Newtown Pippin. A month ago, however, my gardener brought me some samples of an Apple called Annie Elizabeth. They were green, and closely resembled the Newtown Pippin, except that they were not so sweet. He suggested keeping them another month, and has now brought them in well coloured, and when eaten they are hardly to be distinguished from a Newtown Pippin, in fact, I had some difficulty in persuading a great admirer of the American Apple that they were English grown. Now, in all the catalogues that I have seen Annie Elizibeth is described as a kitchen Apple, and the growers seem to ignore its capital qualities, such as juiciness, crispness, and flavour, and persist in recommending the close woolly varieties justly complained of by Mr. Engleheart. I intend at once to make a planting of this variet}', late though it is in the season. — A. M. Martineau, Hunst Lodge, Berks. Mr. Bunyard may have noted the superiority of some of the American Apples over a lot of our own varieties, but I should hardly think he indulged in such a sweeping condemnation of the latter as appears in Mr. Eagleheart's note on page 126. This reminds one somewhat of the Potato onslaught and the glorification of the French tablets of soap at the expense of the English flour balls. Nearly everyone, I suppose, is willing to admit that far too many inferior varieties of Apples have been planted, with the result that the grower is now called sharply to account, and a demand for better qualitj' is heard alike from mansion and market ; also that several of the Americans are better than our second-rate sorts. It by no means follows, however, that, with the exception of Cox's Orange Pippin, we have no Apples equal to the foreign sorts ; on the contrary, there are several quite as good, if not rather better. Very early Apples may be required for market, but it is hardly the case in the majority of gardens, as few people care for Apples when they can get juicy Peaches and Nectarines, luscious Figs, and Gage Plums. As a first-rate second early to precede Cox's Orange Pippin I should put Gravenstein quite at the top of the list. There may be two forms of this, as one catalogue tells us it should be eaten from the tree, and another that it will keep until Decem- ber. Perhaps Messrs. Cannell, who showed this Apple splendidly last season, will give us the benefit of their experience. With me it does not put on a bright colour, but is of a rich gold throughout, rather over medium size, and keeps well until the middle of November. Dr. Hogg says of it : " Flesh white, crisp, very juicy, with a rich vinous and powerful aromatic flavour, this beautiful and excellent Apple is comparatively little known, but is a valuable fruit of the first quality." When to this may be added that it is very digestible it ought to appeal to Mr. Engle- heart's palate, and even expensive teeth should make short work of it. Few growers will agree with the statement that " Cox's Orange Pippin is seldom at its best after the middle of November." On the contrary, if allowed to hang as long as possible on the tree and carefully housed it is first-rate all through December, and even a little after the New Year. Neither can one agree with the statement that "from January onward one has to fall back on hopelessly second-rate Apples." What about Cornish Gilliflower, Claygate Pear- main, and Braddick's Nonpareil ? The first- named is a shy bearer, but crops fairly well on bushes if judiciously pruned, while from a purely flavour standpoint it is probably the finest Apple in existence. The starlings and blackbirds are evidently of this opinion ; they make for it before any other, even when it is quite green, and unless carefully netted we should never secure a sound fruit. Of the other two I like Claygate Pearmain the better, and, if confined to one sort, as a high- class late dessert Apple should always plant this. The rich, slightly yellow flesh is highly flavoured. and, like Gravenstein, it is an easily digested fruit. — E. BtTRRELL, Ctaremont. Mr. G. H. Engleheart's reflections on "English V. American Apples" are very much to the point, and I heartily applaud his courageous handling of national prejudices. I notice in your Covent Garden wholesale price list, page xii., that cases of this variety fetch 20j. to 24^., which is an exorbitant price, and seems to indicate that the British taste for a really good Apple is fast improving, for what may fruit retailers charge actually to their private customers when they themselves pay 6d. to 7d. per lb., as they do, for the case contains only a bushel, a little over 401b. This condition of values places the right interpre- tation and merit on Mr. Engleheart's suggestion as to cross-breeding of suitable varieties that might compete with Newtowns, and render our country a little less dependent on foreign supplies of really good things, as is actually the case. That such things can happen to fruit in a British season of glut, as after being almost unsale- able during October and November last, a thousand bushels of such as Lane's Prince Albert, well graded, went begging at 2j. 6d. per bushel, is a remarkable circumstance, which might assist in opening the eyes of a few would-be growers. What may not happen in a season of scarcity with the right sorts provided at home in relative quantity for the more fastidious among Apple-lovers? We should be on a level with the French in their admiration of their splendid Cal ville Blanc, so rarely seen or grown in England , and only imported in driblets into Covent Garden, and annually sold there at Is. and Is. 6d. retail per Apple in the spring months. There is no reason whatever for this variety being caviare to our nation, except ineptness in pro- ducing it. Ignorance of meteorology and its effect on crops of all kinds in this country is, besides superficiality of management, at the bottom of all failure, and this is notably the case with fruit subjected to spring frosts in the blossom-stage from ill-advised selection of sites for plantations. American summers referred to by your correspondent are, indeed, of consequence, in so far as they provide more sunshine than falls to our lot on an average. American Newtowns, however, are grown from 41° N. Lat. near New York down to Virginia (SS" N. Lat.), therefore regions corresponding almost exactly with the geographical position of Portugal. They are regions that approach subtropical conditions in a sense, while we do not transgress south of 50° N. Lat. in our m-ain islands. Of course, our prevailing westerly winds favouring us from the vast and relatively warm Atlantic constitute a powerful set-off to rigour of climate. There are, of course, some very good English Apples which are in season from January onwards. I know oE none better than Scarlet Nonpareil, best in February, which in good seasons almost rivals our famous Ribston as eaten from the tree, or soon after picking, after the middle or end of September. Cox's Orange gives us a full month's grace, and remains enjoyable well into .January. But in the same sense as Mr. Engleheart, in referring to the Blenheim, I should like to deprecate the idea, as if there were any virtue in the popular King of Pippins or Bsauty of Bath, 156 THE GARDEN. [March IS, 1905. which Mr. A. Dean, on page 127. regards as among the best dozen eating Apples. Much finer sorts, such as Egremont, Mother. Cravenstein. Benoni, and many others are ignored, and the}' all produce very fairly to well on the Paradise stock. The Crab stock is the cause of Ribstons being found wanting in freedom from what is popularly named canker ; this, in most cases, is merel}' neglected American blight. Or the draw- back is that standard trees are planted, which is a complete mistake in all circumstances, except for Cherries for market, and in the form of fruit trees generally along highways, Sidcap, Kent. H. H. Raschen. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. MARCH. A First Pme of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best Essays on ttie subject of SUMMER GARDENING. The essay must not exceed 1,000 words in length ; it must describe the best way (in the writer's opinion) of keeping the Flower Garden beautiful during June, July, August, and September. The various plants recom- mended must be correctly described with regard to height, colour of flowers or foliage, and time and duration of flowering. More points will be given to the essayist who is able to show how the garden may be made attractive throughout the summer by one planting only, than to those who advocate successional plantings. The prizes will be mainly awarded for the information given. Style of writing will not be so much con- sidered. The object is to have plain practical gardening experience. The first prize essay will be published. This competition, which is open to all professional gardeners, closes on March 31. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. March 17- — Quinquennial E.xhibitlon of the Royal Dutch Bulb Growers' Society at Haarlem. March 22. — Royal Botanic Society's Show. March 28. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting; Horticultural Club Dinner at 6 p.m., followed by a lecture on "Forests, Wild and Cultivated," by Dr. Henry. March 29. — Liverpool Horticultural Associa- tion's Show (two days). British Gardeners' Association.— At a committee meeting held on the 3rd inst. it was decided that, 500 gardeners having joined the association, the election of the e.vecutive •council should be proceeded with. The council will consist of twelve members who live within «asy reach of London, and a representative of every branch with not less than fifty members. To enable all to take part in the election of the twelve a list of those who are willing to serve on the council will be posted to every member, who will be invited to mark the names of those he prefers, and the twelve who obtain the highest number of marks will be considered elected. This arrangement appears to be the only workable one that would give satisfaction. The selection of candidates will be representative of all sections of gardening, but the majority will be gardeners employed in private establishments. Gardeners who have not already joined the asso- ciation are urged to do so at once, and thus secure the right to take part in the election of the first executive council. Candidates for mem- bership are requested to apply to the secretary of a branch should there be one near, but those who prefer it may apply direct to headquarters. The expenses of public meetings held in different parts of the country are, as a rule, provided locally, the fund for the promotion of the move- ment being too small to do more than help to pay the delegates' expenses. The committee would be thankful for further help in the shape of donations to the expenses fund. It was also decided to secure an office in London and to engage a permanent secretary as soon as possible. Up to February 28 the membership was 504. Of this number 211 are head gardeners, 26 single- handed gardeners, 183 journeymen gardeners, and 80 various. These are distributed : South of England 271, North of England 91, Scot- land 42, Wales 78, Ireland 12, and Colonies 6. Meetings have been held in 23 gardening centres, including Birmingham, Leeds, Sunderland, Plymouth, Exeter, Bournemouth, Reigate, Swan- sea, Cardiff, Altrincham, &c. Branches have been established in 17 districts. Suggestions for holding public meetings from gardeners who are willing to help will be gladly received by the secretary. The statement of accounts shows : Receipts, t'191 63. (id. ; expendiiure. £52 16^. lid. ; cash at bank and in hand, £138 9s. 7d. ; donations promised, £81. The secretary (pro tent.) is Mr. \V. Watson, Deseanso House, Kew, Surrey. National Potato Society's show. The schedule of the National Potato Society's show, copies of which are now ready and can be obtained post free from Mr. Walter P. Wright, Posiling, Hythe, marks a great advance on 1904. The president. Sir John T. D. Llewelyn, Bart., offers a silver cup, value £10 10s. Messrs. Carterand Co. , in conjunction with Mr. Archibald Findlay, offer a magnificent challenge cup, value £50, together with £12 in cash. Messrs. .Sutton and Sons offer £24 in casli prizes for their great Potatoes Discovery and S iperlative. Mr. E. J. Deal (Messrs. W. W. Johnson and Son, Limited, Boston) offers a silver cup. Valuable cash prizes are offered by the following well-known firms ; Messrs. Daniels Brothers, Limited, Norwich ; Fidler and Sons, Reading ; J. Kerr, Dumfries ; Robert Sydenham, Birmingham ; S. M. Thomson (Dalmeny agent), Edinburgh ; William Deal, Kelvedon ; Dobbie and Co., Rothesay; T. A. Scarlett, Edinburgh ; Professor W. J. Maiden, Ham ; R. W. Green, Wisbech ; .J. Bettinson, Wisbech ; G. Masaey and Sons, Spalding ; H. Scott, Warminster ; and others. The total value of the prizes is nearly £200, and the schedule is comprehensive and varied. Effect of sunshine following severe frost.— In February, 1902, I had occasion to write, with reference to the "Hardi- ness of Certain Shrubs," that "a plant may withstand 15" of frost with impunitj' on one occasion, only to succumb at a later date to a temperature 10" higher ; so much depends on the atmospheric conditions prevailing during the frost." In November, 1901, a considerable por- tion of the south-west was visited by an excep- tionally severe frost, and I gave the instance of a garden in the neighbourhood of Plympton, where on one night two thermometers, distant about 200 yards apart, registered 20" and 21" of frost respectively. The frost continued in lesser intensity for five nights, but practically no damage was done, even large bushes of Cytisus raoemosus, then bearing several liower-sprays, being unharmed. During this frost, however, the days were dark and windless, not a gleam of sun being seen. Last November there were 18" of frost registered in the same garden. This was followed by brilliant sunshine from sunrise throughout the day. As a consequence the great Cytisus bushes referred to were killed, and several plants of Cordyline (Drac;ena) australis, considered quite hardy in the south-west, were so damaged that they are not likely to recover. In neighbouring gardens all the bushes of shrubby Veronicas and Olearia stellulata, which had passed through the frost of 1901 unharmed, were absolutely killed. Cytisus racemosus, shrubby Veronicas, and Dracainas, where shaded during the morning, escaped uninjured or nearly so, this proving conclusively that the damage was due to the action of the sun on the frosted leaves and shoots. Curiously enough, the .South American Drimys Winteri, standing close by the killed Veronicas, had not a leaf injured. — S. W. FlTZHERBEKT. Water gardening.— May I call the attention of the writer of the article on " Water Gardening" in your issue of March 4 to the experience of Mr. Rider Haggard in planting Villarsia Nymphoides and Stratiotes aloides in ponds. In his recent book, "A Gardener's Year," he says: "War will have to be waged against (these) two plants which I purchased and carefully set here last j'ear. . . . Already I heartily wish that I had never seen either of these species. . . . One more season of it, and if left unchecked I am convinced Villarsia Nymphoides and Stratiotes aloides, having killed out the Lilies and every living thing, in- cluding weeds, would be engaged in a life and death struggle as to which of them should have the pond to itself." — Peters. " \Vindsor Park and Forest."— "What can be more interesting than some acquaintance with the Royal Park and Forest of Windsor ? " questions the author in the opening chapter of "Windsor Park and Forest," and, taking this for his text, proceeds in the course of the fifty pages, of which the book consists, to point out the objects of interest and of beauty that abound in this neighbourhood, unique in its associations. Mr. William Menzies has compiled some excellent reading, and to us the chapter on famous and historical trees is of particular interest. One of the most noted specimens is the Prince Consort's Memorial Oak, planted by Queen Victoria in 1862 : an excellent illustration of the actual planting ceremony is given. It is now appa- rently about 40 feet high, although its present dimensions are not stated. AVe learn that the largest tree in the Royal domain is an Oak, which has a circumference of 35 feet at 5 feet from the ground. The book is attractively illustrated, all the most notable trees, as well as other features, being shown. The illustrations, which are from photographs, are very well reproduced, and add considerably to the value of the book. The pub- lishers are Messrs. Oxley and Son, Windsor. vnndow flowers for London houses. — It is very gratifying to read in The Garden (February IS) that the Earl of Meath is offering money prizes to metropolitan flower show committees who will include a window-box class in their schedules. It would be well if a list of plants could be given, including the more easily- grown creepers, as Nasturtiums, Basella rubra, JVIaurandj'a barclayana and JI. b. alba, Cobiea scandens and C. variegata, Eccremooarpus soaber, Tropajolum peregrinum (Canary Creeper), Ivy- leaved Pelargoniums, and Clematis of not over- rank growth might be recommended, such as C. coccinea and its hybrids ; all are very pretty when in bloom. The foregoing plants are excellent for training up the sides of windows, for covering small balloons, flat trellises, and hanging over the sides of window-boxes. There are some of the more common foliage plants, as Acacia lophantha, and Melianthus major, and Cannas of dwarf stature with bronze or green foliage, all of which have gorgeous blooms. Fuchsias and Abu ti Ions should not be omitted. In gloomy streets, where flower- ing plants would not succeed, hardy Ferns, such as Asplenium, Athyrium, Lastrea, Polypodium, Sculopendrium,and Polystichum, might be recom- mended in place of flowering plants. — F. M. March 18, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 157 Bee Balm and bees.— Will you kindly tell me what effect, if any, the Bee Balm (Monarda didyma) has on bees or honey? A few years ago a correspondent, whose identity I cannot now remember or I would have referred to her direct, wrote me : "I will not have it in the garden because of the bees." But she did not say why "because of the bees." Did she mean that it was harmful to them or to the honey, or did she mean that it was so pleasing to them that it attracted more bees than it was convenient to have in the garden ? At the same time may I ask whether any of the usually- grown hardy plants are hurtful to bees or make their honey unwholesome? I do not keep bees myself, but should be glad to know on account of a near neighbour who has many hives and whose bees no doubt collect in my garden. — G. .J. Vanilla - scented Clematis. — A question appeared some weeks ago about the identity of a Clematis smelling of Vanilla. An answer did not appear till lately, when it was suggested that the Clematis in question was C. Flammula. But this pretty, September- flowering species, though it has a sweet scent, is hardly like Vanilla. Bat the May-flowering C. montana, at one time of its blooming, gives off a strong scent exactly like Vanilla. It is most noticeable when the bloom is just past its best, and when the petals have that slightly- shrivelled look that comes a day or two before their fall. The querist could judge between the probability of either of these answers fitting his plant if he remembers the time of year of its blooming. GaPPya elliptica. — Among winter- flowering shrubs I know of none more beautiful and interesting than the Garrya. Long before even the earliest Snowdrop comes out the Garrya has pushed forth its delicately tinted catkins. Until recently I had only seen it grown against a wall. Three years ago I had a young Garrya planted on what was formerly a herb border, but was then sown down in grass. The young plant receives no extra cultural treatment, except that a small circle round its base is kept free from grass. Last year it bore catkins in great profusion, this year they have not been so numerous, but the plant has made excellent growth, giving promise of a fine display for another season. Growing on a sheltered grassy border the full beauty of this lovely Californian evergreen shrub must be seen to be adequately appreciated. — J. Jeffrey, The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. Golden Guonymus on a wall.— Among other interesting work during spring, that of selecting suitable plants for training against the house may well claim attention. The neat growing Virginian Creeper (Ampelopsis Veitchii), the different Clematises, and others may be used ; but pleasing as they undoubtedly prove when at their best, there is still something wanting. The former being deciduous does noi give a winter effect, while the Clematis requires constant management to maintain a neat habit, BO prone are the growths to ramble away and become an entangled mass, thus leaving much of the base quite devoid of both leaves and flowers. For embellishing the fronts of houses with a plant that will require little attention but still maintain a neit habit, the Golden Euonymus is most suitable. It is beautiful when grown as a shrub, and equally so when trained to brick- work, while it is evergreen. We notice it is used freely for such a purpose at different seaside towns. In planting it is necessary to secure several leaders, training these evenly apart, then by keeping the shoots pinched in, an even surface of foliage close to the brickwork is secured. The foliage may loose its brightness in towns, owing to the deposit from smoke and dust, but this is easily removed by using the syringe. — B,. P. The Spindle Tree (Euonymus eUPOpseus). — This shrub is at its best in autumn and early winter, when the colouring of the foliage in some soils and situations is equal to that of the Ghent Azaleas, while the brilliant coral-like berries are very pleasing. Although it is very common in some parts, in others it is rarel}' seen. This cannot be attributed to the want of hardiness or a rich soil, as we have frequently found large thickets of this plant growing in a wild state on the South Downs, at a great elevation, and fully exposed to sea winds. The soil, too, is of the poorest, simply a thin layer of mountain turf covering the chalk. In such positions the foliage is more beautiful in the autumn, and the fruit more plentiful than on bushes grown in the garden. It is also seen in the hedgerows and spinnies, and appears to be proof against the ravages of hares and rabbits. It is used very freely at the autumn shows as well as in private rooms for making arrangements with other autumn foliage and berries. Though generally known under the name of the Spindle Tree, woodmen and others only know it as skewer wood, and it is sought after by gipsies for making skewers, which shows how plentiful it is in some districts. I can recommend this shrub for planting in woodlands and other places, as masses of it lend a pleasing colour as winter approaches. We have frequently seen the bushes referred to from 8 feet to 10 feet in height ; in a wild state they are apt to become thin at the bottom, which, of course, is prevented when under management in the garden. — Richard Paeker. Plant names. — A recommendation for Latin names to plants is that these in horticul- ture constitute universal language, and because horticulture is cosmopolitan that universality is not only essential, but it is international also. When local or common names are given to plants they, as a rule, differ in each country — often, indeed, in each county here, hence plant nomen- clature becomes a jumble. Happily, we do not find Latin names, after all, so very difficult. Probably those who complain of them most are those too indolent to acquire them, yet when acquired how easy to retain and pronounce. As Miss Sniallpeice shows, for instance, how much more pleasing is Stellaria than Stickwort. Latin names are practically fixtures ; common names are constantly in process of manufacture, just as the makers may fancy, so that nomenclature soon becomes chaos. Some of our old common names are pleasing, but too many are other- wise.— A. D. Camellia reticulata.— Although this species, like several others once common in collections, has given way to the more regularly- formed flowers of the Italian raisers, it is well worthy of the attention of cultivators. Its flowers, of a light crimson tint, are large and semi-double, and the foliage, of a dull green colour, is minutely serrated at the edges. The plant blooms with greater certainty if it is afforded slight hea^ and moisture when making its growth. If placed out of doors in the month of May, it should stand in half shade and be well syringed after hot days. Camellias are all the better for having the pots sunk to the rims in beds of coal ashes or fine gravel when standing in the open, or, failing this sort of root protection, they should have slates or tiles placed around the pots on the sunny side. — F. M. Rhododendpon apgenteum.— One of the most beautiful Rhododendrons which opens its flowers in February and March under glass is R. argenteum (grande), a native of Sikkim. In the south-west, where it is found to be quite hardy, the flowers appear at a rather later date. The massive corymb consists of from 20 to 30 cam- panulate while flowers, each measuring across the mouth about IJ inches and 2 inches in depth, white, with a dark stain at the base, and some- times the white is suffused with pink. The foliage is green, with deep veins. As a greenhouse or cool conservatory plant, this species is of great value. The late Captain Mangles succeeded with it at Vale Royal, Haslemere, by having it planted in shaded borders, covering the plant with mats during bright sunshine as a hindrance to the formation of too early growth and flowering, the spring frosts having an injurious effect on the delicate flowers. The captain was an enthusiastic cultivator of Himalayan P>,hododendrons, and spared no trouble in getting good results from his plants. The ordinary cultivator will, however, be content to afford them greenhouse treatment. Repotting is not called for annually, although an inspection of the drainage materials and a slight renewal of the surface soil should not be omitted each spring just as growth has begun. Pots just large enough to accommodate the root mass com- fortably and a potting soil consisting of pure hard peat two-thirds and sandy loam and silver sand, to afford porosity, will meet the needs of this and other species. The plant should be kept under glass till all danger from frost is past, remembering the earlier the growth is made and matured the earlier the plant will flower the next year. Some beautiful trusses were shown at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 27th ult. by Mr. L. D Godman of South Lodge, Horsham. — F. M. Meconopsis cambpica plena.— Holding, as we do, one of the largest stocks of this fine plant, and having given special attention to it, I may be allowed, perhaps, to state the result of myobservations in regard to it. In thefirst place, there seems to be an idea that there are distinct forms, including double orange, double yellow, and semi-double. Our original plant, planted on a rockery, was our first object-lesson to the contrary. The first year it was the desired deep orange and densely double. The second year it sported semi- double and light yellow, almost the shade of the parent wilding, and the following season went back again to the very double orange flower. Plants in nursery beds have shown the same sportive character, some plants at one part of the season showing only a few threadlike petals in the centre, and then later throwing large, globular, lightly-packed blossoms of either yellow ororange, sometimes even bearing both types at one and the same time, thus dispelling the idea of any further permanent sport. We find that it succeeds re- markably well either in sun or shade, but that it prefers a moist strong soil. When thus suited it is never out of bloom, after once commencing, till severe frosts set in. It is a very pretty cut flower, lasts well, and from its novel tints proves verj- attractive in the market. Strong plants are easily increased by division. — J. Stormonth, Kirlchride, Carlisle. ROUND ABOUT A GARDEN. The Bullfinch in the Gaeden. THERE is no more charming British bird than the bullfinch. Especially at this season of the year, when bright flowers are so few, and more especially in the fruit garden, where the nakedness of lingering winter is emptasised by the rows of bare trees and bushes, the rich ruby breast of the bullfinch, glowing like a lamp amid his brown surroundings, strikes a keynote of rare colour, which compels admiration 40 yards away. It is at about the same distance, too, that it usually compels a charge of shot ; for of all birds the bullfinch— at the present of all seasons, and in the fruit garden of all places — is most detested by the gardener. And there is grave reason to believe that the gardener is right. POST-MOETEM EVIDENCE. There are some apologists of the bullfinch, indeed, who confuse its conduct among the fruit trees with that of the tits, and aver that the bird only attacks such buds as arc already infested with grubs or maggots. But, apart from the fact that there are no grubs or maggots in buds at the time when the 158 THE GARDEN. [March iS, 19 j5. bullfinch makes his worst raids upon the pro- spective crop of the following summer, post- mortems which have been held upon his remains, after he has been killed in the act, show that his end was justified from the gardener's point of view ; because the crop is always in such cases more or less tightly packed— according to the length of time he had been at work before vengeance overtook ]jim_with the plump green hearts of sound buds. "Guilty." Almost equally damning evidence may be procured against the bullfinch by the simple experiment of giving to a caged bird a few twigs of Gooseberry or Plum trees. The prompt and workmanlike manner in which he will at once proceed to strip ofi:' and devour every bud convinces you at once that thi^ is his natural occupation. _ The shape of his beak, moreover, offers testimony against him ; for it is manifestly curved— with a ten- . dency to imitate a parrot's bill on a small scale— for the purpose of shelling off the dry outer cases of the buds. If it was intended for dissection of the buds, so as to get at a con- cealed grub or other tiny creature, it would need to be of a very dift'erent shape, needle or chisel-pointed, like that of a tit On all points, therefore, the bullfinch must be con- demned as guilty of the wholesale destruction of the buds of fruit trees. The Flower Garden, too. Nor does the bullfinch confine his unwel- come attentions to the fruit garden. Very often he commences operations upon the Honeysuckles and the Japanese Golden Ball Plant, which produce their buds very early in winter, as well as upon ornamental varie- ties of foreign Plum trees. The Almond is another early joy of the flower garden of which the bullfinch robs us, and, of course, at the same time he is busy with the Almond's brother, the Peach, in the fruit garden. There, however, his favourite victims are, in order of time, the Gooseberry, the Plum, and the Medlar, though in order of the bird's liking for the buds, I think that the ]\Iedlar should come first. And whatever plant the bullfinch is engaged upon expedition and thoroughness are his characteristics. If one could discover a bird that would clear bushes of, say, green fly, in the businesslike manner that a bullfinch clears them of buds, gardeners might be asked to subscribe for a life-size golden statue of their benefactor, to be erected in the central hall of the Natural History Museum at South Kensington. Under an attacked fruit tree which overhangs a path, the gardener, on the other hand, might some- times almost be justified in bringing out his ijesom to sweep up the brown bud scales which the bullfinches have scattered on the ground. New Evidence for the Defence. After all this it might seem that no hand could be raised in favour of the bullfinch in a garden, charming and beautiful as he is. We might even consider the advisability of reviving the ancient custom by which churchwardens used to be empowered to pay twopence for every "hoop"— as the bird is usually called in districts where he is a familiar plague— brought to them dead. Yet 1 have lately received letters from two corre- spondents who once regarded the bullfinch as an enemy to their fruit gardens, but latterly have discovered reason, as they think, to adopt a different opinion, and it is in the hope of getting precise evidence on the point raised in favour of the bird that I have brougbt his case before the expert readers of The Garden. "Beneficent Bdllfinches ! " One of the writers says that in his garden there are certain old and unsound, worthless Damson trees, as well as a number of young and valuable fruit trees, which are carefully cultivated ; and he finds that the latter are never touched, although every year the bull- finches come freely to the old, worthless trees, in spite of the fact that these are much closer to the house than the others. From this the conclusion is suggested that bull- finches only take the buds of old and weak trees, which are really cumbering the ground and might be removed without loss. In the other case my correspondent had had little experience of bullfinches, until one year they came to his garden in some numbers and set to work stripping an old fruit tree of buds In the following summer that tree had such a crop of fruit that it fell down ! An Interesting Experiment. Now these, I take it, are pleas worth investigating on behalf of the bullfinch, for, even if it may not be found that the bird will refrain from attacking young and healthy trees when old and weak ones are not available, yet, if it is really the case that bullfinches will leave good trees alone if they can get bad ones to attack, those who love birds as well as fruit mighty utilise the fact. It might not always be possible or advisable to leave an old tree or two for the bullfinches to play with, but some of us might.be able and willing to do it. And, since various kinds of Plum make excellent hedges and the Gooseberry thrives also in a hedge- where, indeed, it makes pleasant patches of green long before the Hawthorn is in leaf — the ex]ieriment might be worth trying (or carefully watching where it is already in unintentional operation) whether such a hedge in or near a fruit garden will attract the attention of the bullfinches away from plants of value within. It is quite possible that a wild bird should prefer food that grows under natural conditions, and find the succulent buds of highly cultivated plants unsuited to its taste where simpler fare can be obtained. Would Pests Multiply ? It is even possible that the same principle might govern the action of the various insect pests which attack our fruit trees. On the other hand, it is at least eijually possible that the insects, breeding freely under natural conditions in the hedge or the old neglected trees, where they would escape^ insecticides and other gardening operations, might become a greater trouble than ever. Perhaps, even, there are many experienced readers of 'The Garden who are fully aware that the vicinity of wild fruit trees or a Plum hedge has a bad effect on a fruit garden. Even in the case of the bullfinches it may be that unrestricted liberty to pick the buds of a few trees or of a fruit tree hedge might attract them to the vicinity in larger numbers and so make the state of the garden worse in the end. However this may be, it is such a pleasant surprise to find that some people quote their own gardening experience in favour of the bullfinch among the fruit trees that one would like to have the fullest light thrown on the matter. E. K. R. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. A NE A HEPATICAS. NEMONE HEPATICA is widely dis- tributed. Its northern limits are the Pine woods of .Sweden and Prussia, even including Lapland ; the southern limits the mountain woods of warmer Italy, from whence it was intro- duced into England during 1629. Amongst the typical plants, with charming blue flowers, are found here and there those colour forms that are delightful in our spring gardens. These little plants have not been plentifully planted or so well used as they deserve. This perhaps is not to be greatlj' wondered at when small roots are not infrequently retailed at 6d. or even more apiece, a price which does away with the idea ot the planting by hundreds. Seeing that they may be imported with greater facility than even the Christmas Rose, as ihej' are ver}' plentiful in many places and pack in email bulk, Hepaticas should be more frequently offered in sensible quantities at cheaper rates than has hitherto been the case. Imported plants should be put iu soil immediately they are received, as drying injures the roots. The first year's flowers after planting are almost certain to be plentiful, but a decrease ma}- be noticed in the second spring owing to the root disturbance. After that, soil and site being to their fancy, the crowns increase. The illus- tration shows an excellent way of planting these spring and even winter flowers. Until lately a rough plot of ground. Professor Balfour has already had the wild garden here laid with grass walks and planted up with woodland plants, as Linnrea, Epigaja, Scillas, many Primulas, and other plants that enjoy the partial shade given by the thin stand of Pines, &c. , above. Anemone Hepatica likes the sunshine of the early months, hence in planting in thinly-covered woodlands, as here, the plants should be irregularly massed in the more open spots rather directly under the canopy of evergreen trees. Planted thus a charming effect results, recalling the beauty of the plants in their native woods. In planting the point of the buds should be level with the surface of the soil. The distance apart may vary, and it is more natural when it does. Where close masses of colour are desired, li inches from clump to clump is far enough. Weeds must be kept down. A large quantity of plants is required if satisfactory results are to be obtained from Hepaticas in spring bedding. If used alone they should be put about 3 inches apart. A bed of the red, white, and blue flowered varieties looks well. The white should come between the blue and red. Snowdrops should be put between the clumps, and may be pulled out when they have passed out of flower. Hepaticas like a good deep soil, and do not care to be shifted about so frequently as the exigencies of formal gardening often demand. A freer style of lied in which Hepaticas are mixed with clumps of Winter Aconite, Snowdrops, Narcissus minor, minimus, and Harbinger Primrose, with a ground- work of small-leaved Ivy, is attractive through- out the spring mouths. Hepaticas are useful for bordering the paths of rock gardens. At Edinburgh they have grown for years from tiny crevices, where they lose their leaves in summer, but produce flowers abundantl}^. The most plentiful single-flowered Hepatica is the typical blue-flowered form, white is scarce, and the beautiful deep rose most expensive of all. In the double- flowered forms, which, as a rule, are hardlj' so freely flowered, the above is partially reversed, lilac in this case being scarcer than the red. The double white Hepatica is hardly to be thought of yet for woodland planting. There are other forms, but many are unobtain- able in quantity. Mr. Boyd of Faldouside, March 18, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 159 Melrose, has long grown an interesting form, intermediate between double and single flowered, and having large outer or guard petals. There are also several interesting leaf variations to be met with. A. H. marmorata, now scarce, has very markedly blotched leaves. The American Hepaticas, which occur in great quantities on the mountains of Carolina, Tennessee, and also in Canada, &c., where they are much used in the preparation of patent medicines, are not equal to the European forms for garden use. Usually met with as forms of A. H. acutiloba, their leaves differ somewhat from the Continental form. The flowers are frequently more starry in outline. Anemone angulosa is occasionally known as A. transylvanica, which indicates its East European distribution. Several fine varieties have been raised from this close ally of the long- known Hepatica, and they appear to be more freely flowered than the type, which produces fine flowers much larger than those of the A. Hepatica. In many gardens it is, however, a sulky plant, refusing to flower freely, although slugs may have sometimes a good deal to do with this scarcity of bloom. D. S. Fish. Eoyal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. to be in error in stating that the plant under notice originated at Dropmore. I always under- stood that it was given many years ago to Mr. Frost, Mr. Herrin's predecessor at Dropmore, by Mr. Hubbard of the neighbouring Blythewood Gardens. A. C. Bartlett. THE DEOPMORE ANCHUSA. ITALICA. As a former worker in the Dropmore Gardens, I was greatly interested in the illustration and appreciation of this beautiful plant. I can heartily endorse all that Mr. Fitzherbert says of its beauty and utility. During the seven years I was at Dropmore it was, as now, greatly admired by all who saw it; in fact, some of the numerous visitors to the gardens who did not ordinarily care much for herbaceous plants, and came solely to see the conifers, found themselves voicing its praises. Throughout the decade or so thit Mr. Herrin was in charge of Dropmore he gave so freely of it to all who asked that at one time this Alkanet must have been fairly common ; and, indeed, Mr. Filzherbert's note suggests as much for, in speaking of its relative hardiness, he remarks of the " many cases where the Dropmore variety has failed to appear again in the spring after dying down." I am surprised at this implied tenderness, for Mr. Herrin always had enough and to spare. But its propagation is so easily effected that this half-hardiness should not prove detrimental to its extended culture. I believe Mr. Fitzherbert A NEW AEABIS (ROCK-CRESS). (A. ALPINA FLORE-PLBNO FOLIUS VARIEGATIS. ) The form of Rock-cress with double flowers sent out by M. A. Lenormaud, the well-known 6eed and bulb grower at Caen, some five years ago was already a great improvement on the common Arabis alpina, and is now much valued by all lovers of hardy plants. The first-class novelty which also originated in M. Lenorraand's cultures, and is announced this season, will prove an equally valuable addition to our list of garden favourites, as it may be grown with little trouble by persons of all classes and without any pro- tection. In addition to the beauty of its pure white, perfectly double, delicately - scented flowers, which are borne on long slender stems, and as well adapted for cutting as are those of the green-leaved form, the splendid variegation of its foliage renders it, even when the flowering season is over, a most decorative plant. It is vigorous in growth and very free flowering. Mr. G. Schneider, 17, Ifield Road, Fulham Road, S. W., is distributing this novelty in this countrj-. It is a plant that will probably become as popular as the other varieties. It may be used for edgings, in which way it shows itself to great advantage, and in that case should be planted at about 10 inches apart. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) COOKING POTATOES. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] SI R , — I have read in various papers lately a great deal about Potatoes and the best ways of cooking them, but it appears to me that very few people understand how the tuber should be cooked to get that firm, drj', and mealy (not mashed) appearance so much desired, and the true flavour. A few days since I bad some of a ANEMONE hepatica IN" THE WILD GARDEN AT EDINBURGH. variety that came out thirty or forty years ago, and they were far before some of the newer varieties for tiavour, and quite equal in appear- ance to them when cooked. Some say peel the tubers and let them stand in water for several hours ; others, boil them in their skins to get their full flavour. Of course, there is a great difference in the flavour of varieties, but to take them all round — early, midseason, and late — I think there is no better way than the following for cooking them : Let the tubers be of much the same size as possible, peel very thinly (this is one of the chief points), put in a saucepan of cold water, boil slowly from fifteen to twenty minutes, and, after boiling for ten minutes, add a little salt. When about three-parts done strain the water off, return the saucepan to the fire, and finish by steaming. Keep the cover quite close. By cooking them in this way the Pota- toes keep their colour for several days and do not lose their dr3'nes8 or flavour. At our local flower show in August last I entered in the competition for a dish of cooked Potatoes, for which I gained the first prize. The Potatoes were put on the show table about 7 a.m., and remained there till 8 .30 p.m., and were just as white and fresh when they were taken off as in the morning, while the others, of which there were a dozen or so dishes, had without exception turned dark and lost their flavour. N. HARDY CYCLAMENS. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I have read with great interest the articles in The Garden on the hardy Cyclamens, which do very well and flower abundantly here. I was much surprised to see it stated in Mr. Barr's letter that Cyclamen Coum and C. ibericum flower in the autumn. I think I may safely say this is not correct. In Robinson's "English Flower Garden " it is mentioned that it blooms before the Snowdrop and keeps on until the middle of March. I find that to be the case here. We have now masses of flower in the stones edging the herbaceous border, and also in the kitchen garden. Three other kinds are grown — C. hederEefolium, which blooms in September, and which is grown on stones at the foot of a hedge and a large mass in a wood, the foliage just now is very beautiful; C. vernum or C. repandum, which blooms in the spring ; and C. europfeum in summer. Bri/7i Bella, St. Asaph. John Terrington. [With this note came a bunch of flowers of C. Coum, very pretty with their pink and white colouring, and leaves of C. heder^folium. The Cyclamen leaf is often as beautiful as the flower, so finely veined and marbled with colour. — Ed.] APPLE PEASGOOD'S NONESUCH. [To THE Editor ok " The Gaeden."] Sir, — In The Garden of the 25th ult., page 117, "J. Francis" asks if the judgment of "A. D." re Peasgood's Nonesuch Apple is to be accepted. From my own experience I quite agree with him that on some soils it succeeds very well, and is, as every gardener knows, a splendid variety for exhibition, but too large for dessert and not suffi- ciently certain to grow for profit. I think it a mistake to use it so much as a parent in raising new varieties. Thirteen years ago I planted a small orchard, and, being anxious to try it, I planted two trees, one standard and one bush, and though I have twice lifted the bush tree these have only yielded a peck of fruit. Mine is a light soil with very poor subsoil. For some years I have had good crops of Ecklinville, Lane's Prince Albert, Stirling Castle, Warner's King, Cox's Pomona, and Wellington. Of dessert varie- ties I find the following bear well and regularly : Cox's Orange Pippin, King of the Pippins, Worcester Pearmain, Duke of Devonshire, Lady Sudeley, and Blenheim Orange. I have forty varieties, and only Peasgood's Nonesuch and Winter Queening are failures. The latter I was 160 THE GARDEK. [March 18, 1905. advised to plant by a nursen'man. It does well on clay soil, but is useless on light land. Some of the newer varieties doing well here are Ro}'al Jubilee, Chelmsford Wonder, Bramley's Seedling, Newton Wonder, and AUington Pippin. jS^utjiehl Court, Siin-e)/. T. W. Herbert. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I do not find it necessary in giving an opinion on the merits of this much overrated Apple to quote the opinions of others. Nursery- men who have to sell trees will not emphasise the demerits of varieties and opinions given b3' reputed high authorities some years since would be materiall}' qualified now. How many would grow Peasgood's Nonesuch were not the fruits so handsome ? But as a useful Apple it is a long way behind many others. It is a coarse, almost rampant, grower, a moderate fruiter, and the fruits do not keep. My original reference to the variety was in relation to the mistake I held had been made in using it as a pollen parent on Cox's Orange Pippin, as the only result had been to increase the size of the latter to the destruction of its fine flavour in Iheprogen}-. It is a mistake that no raiser will make again. If I wanted Apples to look at I should grow Peasgood's None- such, but if I wanted Apples for use I certainly should not. A. D. GKAPE WHITE LADY DOWNE'S. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — On page 02 of The Garden for January '28 you invite the opinion of those who have grown White Lady Downe's Grape. I grew it once in Ayrshire. It was grown in the same vinery as Black Lady D Jwne's, and the description of the black variety answers in every detail except colour. It is a late Grape, with a firm and juicy pulp. However, it had one fault, a rusty or grizzly appearance, and not a pure white, which no doubt accounts for its being so seldom met with. Aherlour. W. J. WILLOW TREE BY NAPOLEON'S GRAVE, [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — In reply to "Enquirer" in The Garden of February 18, there is a willow at The Manse, Dunning, N.B., planted by my father, the late Rev. Dr. Wilson, which I have heard him say was a cutting from a willow taken from that in St. Helena. I have no doubt, if it is still alive, that cuttings could be got from it by permission of the present minister, Rev. P. Thomson, D. D. Wakefield. H. Maclean Wilson. SHOW CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Mr. Horner's letter on the subject of show Carnations in The Garden of February 18, reads rather more like an apologj' than a justifi- cation for the use of the paper collar in exhibiting these flowers. He says that these collars are to judges a handy means of lifting Carnation blooms to examine whether the calyx has been allowed to split too far. Now I think this is by no means a sound reason for allowing the paper collar to be used. Why should a bloom require a collar, however unobtrusive, to lift it by, and why, in the absence of the collar, should it be necessary to lift the bloom by its petals in order to examine the calyx, or for any other purpose ? Nature has provided every Carnation with a stem. Would it not be much better to exhibit the flowers with their stems cut to such a length that they could be conveniently handled ? Surely it is the paper collar itself that hides the very calyx which the judges should wish to inspect, and so, for that reason, creates the necessity for its own use. If " in the good old days" the calyx was inspected only to see that the exhibitor had taken the pains to tie it in time to prevent splitting, then 1 think those old da3's were little better than the present. A flower that would naturall}' burst does not, to my mind, possess any more merit in itself from the fact of its having been carefully tied so that such bursting is prevented. If we are to have our Carnations judged only by their petals and the amount of skill displayed by the dresser in selecting and arranging them, everything else — i.e., natural formation of the bloom, habit of growth, quality of stem and calyx, and scent being ignored — then I contend we are doing our best to spoil these beautiful flowers. The object of exhibiting blooms shoulJ be to encourage the raising and growing of a class of plant that will be useful as well to those who merely grow them to beautify their garden bor- ders as to the thousands of people who want them " only for decorative purposes indoors." Blooms from plants that are not worth growing, either in the open or under glass for decoration, should not be allowed, when dressed, to take prizes at a show. W. A. Watts. NON-BURSTING CARNATIONS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sib, — Mr. Burrell, in his reply to " W. I.'s" request for the names of twelve non-bursting Carnations, remarks that the percentage of these varieties also possessing hardiness, free flowering, and a good vigorous habit, is small. This is only too true, and as long as Carnations are allowed to be shown dressed on paper collars so long shall we find raisers aiming solely at colour and form of petal, and bringing out numbers of weakly and bursting varieties, unsuitable for all purposes except showing, where such defects are not taken into account. The number of sound reliable plants fer grow- ing in the open (my remarks apply only to that way of growing them) is very small. On looking through the three replies to " W. I.'s" letter 1 see the names of several that I have tried and found wanting. Mr. Charrington does not make it quite clear whether his list is for growing in the open or under glass. Probably he intends it for the latter, as Hidalgo, for instance, would not, I think, be satisfactory in the open border in many places. Mr. Burrell heads bis list with Countess of Paris, and I quite agree with him in all he says in praise of this variety, and, contrary to his experience, I have always found it roots freely when layered. Mrs. Reynolds Hole and Cassandra have dropped out of my collection. George Maquay, raised by Mr. William Robinson (who also raised the Countess of Paris), is far and away the best white I have found, and I was surprised not to see it in either of the lists. There is always a ditficulty with yellows. Germania was an entire failure with me. Of the dark colours, Uriah Pike (strictly speaking, a Tree Carnation) soon gave place to Agnes Sorrel, and now the latter, which I find has rather a poor constitution, and inclined to disease, is giving place to a very promising seedling. I know of no scarlet variety that is entirely satisfactory. Hayes Scarlet and Isinglas are perhaps as good as any of the old-named varieties, but I have discarded them both. Hidalgo, Lady Hermione, and Lady St. Oswald have been tried and have not been grown a second year. Fancies and Picoteee I have found anything but satisfactory. Tenella is a fairly good yellow ground. Roseleigh Gem is the best heliotrope, but cannot be called a non-burster. The soil here is a strong loam over clay, and I dare say many varieties that will not grow satisfactorily here might flourish in a different soil and climate, and so much depends on cultivation, too. I do not say that a confirmed burster may be grown so as not to burst, but a non-burster can, and very often is, made to burst by wrong treatment, and the bursting of varieties that generally have a sound calyx is, I think, most often caused by the roots being allowed to get too dry when the flower. buds are forming. I have experimented with plants that were as perfect as possible in this respect, placing two side by side in pots under glass in similar soil, and I found that by withholding water from one when the buds were swelling that plant produced burst blooms, while all the flowers on the other, which was watered carefully, opened perfect!}'. Yet I have so often heard it said that a wet season causes Carnations to burst. Bronwylfa, St. Anaph. W. A. Watts. MARGUERITE CARNATIONS FOR CUTTING. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — In reference to Mr. A. W. Watts's letter on Marguerite Carnations for cut blooms, I have always found the following method successful. For flowering in October and later, sow the seeds first week in March, and again the first week in April for a succession of flowers. Sow the seeds in pans of a light, rich soil, consisting of two parts good loam, one of leaf soil and sand. After tilling the pans with soil, give a good watering at least two hours before sowing the seeds. Place the pans in a house or frame with bottom- heat, cover the pans with glass and paper until germination takes place, when the seedlings can be gradually exposed to light and air. When large enough prick the seedlings off in shallow boxes, 2 inches apart each waj', using the same kind of soil as for seed pans. Grow them on in the same house until established, when they can be placed in a cool frame and gradually exposed and hardened off. Prepare, by well digging and manuring a good bed or border in a sunny position, ready for the seed- lings to be planted out, 1 foot apart each way, the first week in June. Stake the plants as they grow to keep them from getting broken. From the beginning to the end of September lift the plants with a good ball, transfer them to pots suitable to size of plants. After potting give the plants a good watering through a rose, place them in a cool frame, and shade from bright sunshine. When the plants have become established in the pots they can be removed to a light, airy house, having a temperature of 45" at night and 50" by day. When the pots are filled with roots feed occasionally with weak cow manure and Clay's Fertilizer. Marguerite Car- nations are never satisfactory if forced in too high a temperature. Keep the plants sturdy, and there will be no difficulty in having a good supply of useful flowers. I may add I have always had the flowers keep fresh for a good time when cut and placed in water. G. W. Smith. [To the Editor of " The Garden."] Sir,— Replying to " W. A. Watts" (The Garden, page 117, on the 25th ult.), I feel sure there are many who could relate the same experience with regard to the Marguerite Car- nation. The flowers do not last long, either on the plants or when out. There is no doubt that they are a very pretty class, and deserve to be grown, but to class them with ordinary Car- nations is a mistake. They are more closely related to the Indian Pinks (Dianthus chinensis), and should always be treated as annuals. For pots or for the open border they make a good show, and last as well as many other plants ; but to recommend them as winter-flowering Car- nations is a great mistake, more especially to give cut flowers. All Carnations lose their petals very soon after fertilisation takes place, and as the Marguerite varieties seed so freely the cause of the flowers not lasting is not far to seek. I have found when fertilising for seed that flowers of the best winter-flowering Carnations will go off very quicklj' after impregnation has taken place. Among a batch used for seeding the flowers will stand up and look fresh long after those that have been successfully impregnated have withered away. I might mention that the variety Miss March 18, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 161 Jolifife with me has always failed to produce seed, and it may be owing to thia fact that it continues to produce flowers auccessionally, and that they last so well. We often hear of some varieties lasting longer than others, and I think if they were examined it would be found that those going off first have perfect seed-vessels, while those which hold their flowers longest will be found to be abortive. To conclude, I may say that there is no doubt that nuny have been misled by the descriptions of the Marguerite Carnations. A. Hemsley. ORCHIDS. H OECHID GROWING FOR BEGINNERS. {Continued from page 11.) EATING. — When new houses are being constructed plenty of pipes should be placed therein so that it may be possible to maintain a correct temperature during exces- sively cold weather without having to make the pipes very hot. An extra row or two of pipes will make all the difference, and when a system is being fitted the extra cost is not of much moment when the ultimate benefits are considered. In a house of the dimensions named, four rows of 4-inch pij-es on either side would answer all requirements. I strongly recom- mend the same amount of piping being placed in the cold house, then it will only be necessary to warm them slightly to maintain the requisite temperature of a minimum of 50° during cold weather ; they will winter far better than when less piping is used. Although excessive heating of pipes is detrimental to all Orchids, yet those requiring the higher temperatures are less injured than the cool growing ones. Generally speaking the quantity of pipes that I have named would not require to be very hot to heat such a house as the one mentioned, even during the severest weather, when the structure is being used to grow stove Orchids. The next important detail is to see that the heating system is well under command. The main should not run through a house on its way to other houses without being encased in a covered channel. All the pipes exposed should be under control, this can be easily accomplished on all the branch pipes by having brass-seated screw-down valves on the flow and return. I would not recommend the cheaper throttle valves, when they have been in use for a while they often get out of order and are practically useless. Paths. — No path should be laid that is of a dry nature, the more humid and earthy the paths and other low parts of the house the better will it be for the plants. I prefer iron gratings nearly the full width of the path, a space to the depth of 12 inches being excavated under them, then they are always dry and clean to walk upon and plenty of moisture can arise continually from the natural soil below. Sides to Paths. — These may be made very ornamental without great expense by making a continuous imitation rock V - shaped pocket, about 10 inches deep and 6 inches wide at the base and 9 inches at top, inside measurements. To do this old bricks and parts of bricks, clinkers, pieces of concrete or stone may be used ; new material is not required. Roughly build them into the desired shape, using some fairly good mortar, the rougher the top and outer side is kept the better and more picturesque will be the effect ; leave plenty of holes at the base to allow the water to pass away freely. When the whole has become set make up to the proportion of two parts sand and one of good cement, and roughly plaster on to the depth of half an inch. When it is partly set probe it with a few pieces of Biroh-broom all over to give it a rough rock-like appearance, then sprinkle a little stone dust over ; this will make a good imitation rock. It is necessary constantly to dip the pieces nf Birch in water when probing the plaster. When it is all properly set fill the pockets with some good retentive soil, and many plants such as the Rex Begonias, Ferns, &c., will be more at home in this condition than they are in pots. This arrangement will add much to the attractiveness of the houses and also prove very helpful in maintaining a humid atmosphere. W. P. BonxD. (To he continued. J CCELOGYNE CRISTATA. (A Useful Winter-floweking Okchid.) Having read with interest your sound advice to "Constant Reader" about growing one of the prettiest and most easily cultivated Orchids (Ccelogyne cristata), I venture to send you a photo- graph of a group. The plants are grown precisely the same way you advise, excepting that when they have finished their growth I remove them close of the year. When in this position water was gradually diminished. The plants were kept rather dry until they were placed in warmth for flowering. The flowering season may be prolonged where there are several plants by inducing some to start into growth early. Opinions differ as to the treatment of the old pseudo-bulbs. Our method is to take some away every year. In this way they never get crowded. Few plants are more useful for placing in rooms than this Ccelogyne, where they last a long time. We have had them in the house here for a fortnight, and they have not suffered in the least. In a cut state I have found them more enduring when not given too much heat. This is of much importance when needed for sprays, &c. As regards soil this consists of fibrous peat and loam, about equal parts if the loam is sandy — add more peat if otherwise — with enough sand and charcoal to keep it open. I like to grow them in pins ; in this way large masses may be A GROUP OF CCELOGYNE CRISTATA IS THE GARDEM OF SIR ALFRED REYNOLDS, WELWYN, HERTS. to a cooler and drier house for about three weeks to give them a slight rest. Welwyn, Herts. L. Lawrence. (Gardener to Sir Alfred Reynolds.) had without the pan being seen. Amateurs with small means should grow this and other free- flowering Orchids, as they do not need a lot of room, and are of easy culture. Forde Abbey Gardens, Chard. J. Crook. Undoubtedly this is one of the most useful Orchids grown. Flowering as it does at the dull season its value is increased. Few Orchids lend themselves to all classes of cultivators so much as this. Those with only small glass accommoda- tion may grow it most successfully, providing they can give it warmth when making new growth, and this can be afforded in pits, iStc, where Cucumbers are grown. When the growths \ are well advanced more air should be given ; this helps to ripen the bulbs and makes them flower more freely. I am convinced that many com- plaints of the plants not flowering arise from this cause. Many growers pride themselves upon large bulbs, but frequently these fail to flower, while the small wrinkled ones are all that can be desired, hence old-established plants are the most satis- factory. Many years ago the late Mr. Spong of Lindisfarn, Bournemouth, was most successful with this and Dendrobium nobile. When growth was matured they were placed on a shelf in full sun in a vinery at rest, and kept cold till the RECENT PLANT PORTRAITS. The Botanical Magazine for March contains portraits of Eomneya trichocalyx. — Native of California. This is a very handsome form of the well-known R. Coulteri, from which it differs mainly in its hairy calyx. Dendrobium regium. — Native of India. This is a very beautiful species, with bright rose- coloured flowers. Rosa Hugonis.—'N utive of Western China. This is a very elegant single Rose, with pale yellow flowers. ..Schmea lavandulacea.—'Sa.lne of the West Indies. This is a rather dull-coloured Bromeliad of merelv botanical interest. Nicotiana forgeliana. — Native of Brazil. This is a very beautiful species of the Tobacco family, with loo.oe racemes of medium-sized bright rose- coloured flowers. It was sent to Messrs. Sander 162 THE GARDEN. [Mai.cii 18, l!J05. W.iTM.FALL IN THE ROCK GARDEN CONSTRUCTtD FOR ME. G. S. PLYMPTON, DEVON. S. STRODE, NEWNHAM PARK, of St. Albaaa from Brazil by their collector, Mr. Forget, but is mainly interesting as being one of the parents with the white N. alata or affinis of the beautiful strain of hybrids known as N. Sanderas, which were so much admired at the last great Temple show, and seed of which next year will be distributed over the entire horticultural world, so that plants of them should appear in every good garden. In the first number of the Eevue Horlicole for February figure five varieties of hardy open-air Chrysanthema, named respectively: 1, Prime- v^re ; 2, Acajou ; 3, Le Pactole ; i, Rubis ; and 5, La Vestale. Thev bear the distinctive name of Chrysanthumes diScoratifs. They were raised by M. Delaux of Toulouse, and are said to be the earliest-blooming members of the entire family. The February number of the Revne de V Horti- ctdiure Belae gives a fine double plate of a deep rose-coloured, small-flowered form of Azalea indica named Hexe, which is said to have rose-coloured instead of green calyces. These retain their beauty for some time after the flower falls. Also a curious little toy Orchid, Gengorohis pumila, with tiny flowers of merely botanical interest. W. E. Gdmbleton. surface— a sheet of glass, for instance— which will have the effect of producing a very thin transparent sheet of water. I have obtained such a sheet of falling water 4 feet wide by this means from a supply pipe only three- quarters of an inch in diameter. That all such artificial appliances must be conapletely hidden from view goes without saying, for it would be ridiculous for any straight lines or level surfaces to be visible in work supposed to represent wild natural scenery. Waterfalls with an Abundant Supply of Water. When the water supply is abundant it is much easier to turn it to good account in the rock garden than when the supply is limited. It is not necessary with an abundant supply to take care that every drop of falling water can be distinctly seen. A dark cave for a background and similar devices can, therefore, in such a case be dispensed with. A most effective way of showing oft' a waterfall with an abundant supply is to let the water descend over a seiies of rough irregular steps resembling natural rocks, and constructed in such a way as to correspond with the strata of the adjoining rocks. Sometimes it may happen that the water supply is very abundant at times, but scarce during dry summers. In such a case it is best to be prepared for the worst, and to provide a dark background, against which the water would show to greater advantage when it is scarce. Such an arrangement is shown by the illustration representing a rook garden I ' constructed a short time ago for Air. G. S. S. Strode at Xewnham Park. It will be seen that in this case the waterfall is so arranged that the water does not fall down straight, but dashes against large boulders, which break the fall and divert its course. The second illustration shows the same waterfall by itself, and from this it will be seen that a dark background is provided, so that if — as occasionally happens — the water supply is a scanty one, the falling water is still shown to the best advantage. The rock garden at Newnham Park was constructed entirely with stones found on the estate, consisting mostly of boulders, with a weather-beaten surface darkened by ages of exposure. The stone is known locally as " Devonshire Marble," and consists of dark grey limestone veined with quartz. The photographs from which the accom- panying illustrations were prepared were i taken soon after the completion of the wo k. THE ROCK GARDEN. ROCK GARDEN-MAKING. Waterfalls. {Continued from j^age 133.) A S a rule waterfalls descending in one J\ single sheet are monotonous, and / \ the more they are broken up the / — * better. But sometimes it may 1 \. happen that the supply of water is .so limited that it is desirable to show it off to the greatest advantage. In such cases I find it very advantageous to spread out the water as much as possible. The best way of doing this is to construct a sort of basin which collects the water and then spreads it out over a smooth level WATER1'.\LL at NEWNUAM PABa o 0\ CO -5: 5 Q z I' z O X 't MakCH 18, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 16:J In the next chapter I propose to deal with another important form of water in the rock garden, namely, bog gardens, and how to make them. Elmside, Exeter. F. W. Meyer. COLOURED PLATE. PLATK 1270. IN THE CASTLE DRUMMOND GARDEN. THE coloured illustration which we give this week needs but few words of comment. It is from a painting by E. A. Rowe, and depicts one of the quaintest feature.s of a beautiful and interesting place. Drummond Castle is the Scottish residence of the Earl of Ancaster. This season cut back to about 18 inches of base ; j July, however, all these strong-growing Roses next season merely remove tips. It is well to : should be examined, and every year some of the cut out any soft pithy shoots both upon the i shoots which have flowered be entirely removed, standards as well as on the bushes. Ulster is a and the best of the strong young growths Hybrid Perpetual, Duchess of Albany (a sport encouraged to take their place, cutting out alto- from La France) is a Hybrid Tea. HOW TO PRUNE ROSES. (Continued from page 14S. ) Bourbons. — The Bourbons should be pruned in the same way as advised for the strong-growing varieties of the Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas. Provence, Moss, and China. — These hardy Roses should be well thinned out to prevent their growths becoming crowded, and the remain- ing shoots shortened one-half their length. CROCUS CHRYSANTHUS VARIETY W^ARLEY. One of the prettiest of the Crocuses we have seen was shown by Miss Willmott at the first February meet- ing of the Royal Horticultural Society. The , illustration shows the natural size of the plant and its free- dom of flowering. It is one of those dainty little early flowers that we like to see in a pan in the cold alpine house, such as the one in the herbaceous ground in the Royal Gardens, Kew. The outer segments are stained with a purplish colour- ing, but the centre is white, jsure yellow at the base, and the pistil is a warm orange scarlet. It is a beautiful flower. THE ROSE GARDEN PRUNING VARIOUS ROSES RECENTI;Y PLANTED. IT will not be advisable to prune the newly-planted standards and dwarfs until about the last week in March. The vigorous growing varieties such as Ulrich Brunner should be cut back to within 6 inches of where budded, taking care that the cut be just above an eye, which should point outward. Both standards and dwarfs should be treated in the same way the first year. Under this category of vigour we should place Mrs. Paul, Margaret Dickson, and Reynolds Hole. Varieties such as Mrs. B. R. Cant, Duchess of Albany, and Lawrence Allen should have about 4 inches of their growths retained, whilst Mildred Grant and Ulster are cut back to the most prominent eye, even if close to the ground. The weaker the grower the harder it is pruned. This seems paradoxical, but a moment's reflection will show you that a weak plant can perfect one or two new growths better than it can five or six. The variety Setina is known also as climbing Hermosa. gether those not needed. "The object of thinning out the shoots that have flowered, and tying or laying in the strong young shoots of the current year, is to enable the latter to make better growth , and by exposure to light and air to become ripened before the winter sets in. Austrian Briars. — Beyond removing the dead, injured, and worn-out shoots, the Austrian Briars should not be touched at all with the knife. Scotch Briars. — These require similar treatment to the Austrian Briars. Hybrid Sweet-briars. — The Sweet- briars need no spring pruning at all ; but in July, after flowering, it will be well to cut out some of the older shoots where crowded, in order to give the younger ones a chance of making better growth. Pompon. — The free-flowering miniature Pom- pon Roses should have their shoots well thinned out, and those left shortened one-half their length. Rurjosa or Japanese Roses. — This section requires but little pruning. Some of the old and crowded shoots should be entirely removed, and the younger growths either tied in or moderately shortened. Banksia.—T\iB pruning of this particular class of Rose differs somewhat from that of nearly all the climbers in that they require but little thinning. After flowering, the strong shoots of the present year's growth not required to furnish the plant should be removed, and the rest of them , •' tied in and slightly shortened. Care should be taken not to cut away the twiggy growths, as the flowers are borne on these laterals. Oallica or French Roses. — Only the striped varieties in this class are now grown. They should be pruned in the same way as recommended for the Provence Roses. Single-flowered Roses. — As these belong to so many diflferent sections, it is impos- sible to give the exact treat- ment all of them require. Those of vigorous growth should be pruned as advised for other climbing and pillar Roses, while the bush and dwarf varieties should be only thinned out and the points of the remaining shoots re- moved. The few dwarf Hybrid Perpetuals bearing single flowers should, however, be rather severely pruned. CROCDS CHRYSANTHUS VARIETY WARLEY. (Given an award of merit by tfie Royal Horticultural Society on tlie lUtfi ult by Miss Willmott.) 2. Roses which Require very Little Pruning. — To whatever section a Rose may belong, if it be grown as a climber or as an arch or pillar, it will not do to cut it back hard, or it will bear but few if any flowers. But there are also certain other Roses which, although not of extra strong growth, will not flower satisfactorily if cut back at all severely. It is by cutting away the flowering wood of such kinds that the greatest mistakes in pruning usually occur. Climbing, Pillar, and other strong -growing Roses. — In the spring these need very little atten- tion beyond securing the best shoots in the positions they are required to occupy, and to shorten back or remove altogether any other shoots which may not be required at all. Within ivhen shown ROSES IN COLD PITS. Plants potted last October should now be placed in the pits if they are not already there, and be pruned without delay. If the plants are plunged in a bed of leaves the gentle heat aflforded will help root action considerably. Where this is not possible then plunge the pots in ashes. Giv« air every day, except in frosty weather, but close the pits about 3 p.m. ; even if the sun is shining brightly no harm is done. Keep up the practice of closing early; the moisture which quickly arises on the glass will prevent any injury beiDf; done to the foliage. These plants when showing bud may be useful for placing in the greenhouse, but they will be far better in the pits, even though they bloom somewhat later. Residents near large towns and cities would find the cold pit an excel- lent place for growing Roses ; they have the plants more under control, and the foliage is moie easily cleansed. "• 164 THE GARDEN. [March IS, 1905. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. SIMPLE HINTS. shortening in winter. On some subjects it is well to have no preconceived ideas, to be entirely free from what is called rule of thumb, that induces a person to go along the beaten track without a thought of where it is leading. It is necessary sometimes to stop and think. Any tree can be made to assume pretty well any shape by prun- ing and training, but the simplest form ia the PLANTING GLADIOLI.— Though some of the new varieties are expensive there are pleniy of good and cheap kinds to be had in the various sections. They may be planted from this onwards till the end of April, and may be grown in beds, or groups in the border, or as dot plants over a groundwork of Verbenas, Drummond's Phlox, or Violas. To obtain really good spikes some pains should be taken in the preparation of the ground, but manure should not be placed close to the corms. Gladioli for Forcing. — With the exception of the small earl}'- flowering varieties, Gladioli are not ofteu forced. The Bride, a pure white variety, is generally forced for cutting, but I have had Gandavensis in flower in pots in April, potted early in January, and plunged in a bed of leaves or a pit where there was a little warmth. As soon as the flower-spikes were visible ihej'were moved to a greenhouse where there was a night tem- perature of 50'', and were brought on quickly. They will not bear strong heat, but the bed of leaves appeared to suit them. Gladioli from Seeds. — A deep, rich, well-drained soil is the moat suitable for Gladioli, and whoever begins their culture should raise seedlings. It often happens that seedlings raised at home have a longer life than purchaaed corma, especially when these are of foreign growth. Sow the seeds in drills 1 inch deep and 1 foot apart to give room for surface stirring. In suitable soil under good cultivation some of the seedlings may flower the second year, and all will flower the third year. The Garden Anemone (A. coronaria). — The St. Brigid Anemones are a very fine strain, which originated in Ireland. They thrive best in a light rich soil, deeply worked and manured some time before planting or sowing. Seeds may be sown any time in March thinly over well pulverised land in shallow driUa. Mix the seeds with dry sand, and rub them together to separate them before sowing. If sown thinly the plants may be left to flower | best generally, and in the case of Apples, Red where sown. They will flower in winter or early j Currants, and Gooseberries in the open garden the open-centred bush is the best, whilst Pears, Pluma, Cherries, and Black Currants are better as open-branched pyramids. The Overpruned Tree must have a short life A CLUSTER OF FODRTEEN FKOITS OF APPLE E.IIPEROR ALEXANDER, spring. Pruning : Its Ohject. —If we take a broad view of the subject, pruning has a far-reaching effect, and affects more or less pretty well all cultivated ^ _ _. plants. In the case of fruit trees its main object ' comparatively, and not only ao, but it ia need ia to build up a symmetrical fertile tree in as lesaly expensive in the matter of labour, because short a time as possible, and in the early life of when the tree from thoughtless overpruning has the tree the branches are cut back to secure a kicked over the traces it is necessary to check foundation, and when that object has been the roots to induce the tree to bear any fruit, accomplished the fertility can be secured by but the common-sense view is to prune in judicious thinning in summer, and a little | summer as soon as the young shoots are getting firm at the base, cutting back to four leaves. This prevents the roots running riot and getting out of hand and necessitating shortening. Seasonahle Adrice. — Thick sowing is a mistake now that nearly all seed firms test their seeds and only send out those seeds which can be relied on to give a fair percentage of growth. Then, again, the man who makes two blades of grass grow where only one grew before is only a public benefactor in a limited sense, as overcrowding is nearly always a mistake in its general application. Depth of Corerinrj for Seeds. — No hard and fast line can or should be laid down. So much depends upon the character of the soil, the time of sowing, and even on the seeds themselves. Less covering is recjuired early in the season, when there is no lack of moisture in the land, than later, when the soil ia dry and showers not frequent ; 2 inches, for instance, may be a sufficient depth for earlj' Peas, whilst later, when the sun has gained power, 4 inches may not be too much, and other things may be worked on the same principle. Potting Composts. — For all soft-wooded plants, especially those which have strong roots, good loam should form two-thirds of the bulk. The remaining third may be composed of very old manure, leaf-mould, and sand. This may be described as a sort of universal compost for all soft - wooded plants, which include Geraniums, Fuchsias, &c. For special plants at the last shift bone - meal, soot, or a little chemical manure may be added, but in no case should more than lib. per bushel of the bulk of chemicals be added. One word more. Regard this as experimental work, and keep a. note of j'our doings. Thinning Fruits. — " That the exception proves the rule " is as true in gardening as in other matters the accompanying illus- trationshows. Although thisclus- ter of fruits of Apple Emperor Alexander, grown by Mr. H. W. Roberts, Watford, was con- sidered so fine as to receive a. cultural commendation from the Royal Horticul- tural Society, it serves to illustrate a wrong method of culture. In the first place, if other branches were allowed to ripen as many fruits in so small a space as the one figured, it is safe to predict that the tree would soon be crippled. .4gain, when the fruits are left unthinned, as in this case, they do not attain their full size or develop their true colouring and flavour. So, while this remarkable cluster obtained commenda- tion from the Royal Horticultural Society's fruit committee (probably chiefly on account of its being unusual), it does not illustrate a practice that can be recommended. March 18, ly05.] THE GARDEN. 165 GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. MOST Roses must now be pruned. Rambling Hoses on pergolas, chains, tiipods, and what not should be about the first to be dealt with, for they commence growing early, and strong active buds are easily rubbed off in disentanglnig the shoots, hence the advantage of rough prnniiig and removing dead wood and sprav during the winter, as advised in an early calendar. Even if these matters were then attended to there will be some unripe shoots to shorten, weaker ones to spur in and thin, and small shoots to cut out. Tea Koses, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes on south walls must also receive immediate attention in the same way and for the same reasons, but those on more sunless and cooler aspects and in the open may with benefit wait a little, and so may the Hybrid Perpetuals, &c., so as not to e.tcite dormant buds too early, for we are not yet out of the wood in regard to late destructive frosts. So-called GARDEN EOSLS generally should be cleared of last year's flowering wood, useless twigi, and dead growths, thinning and shortening according to the nature of the plant and its object. Give a dressing of a suitable arti- tlcial manure, and apply a good mulch of rotten farmyard manure, and they will take care of themselves without much further attention until after the flowering season. Spring Beddikg.— Beds and borders furnished with the various spring-fiowering plants and bulbs should be kept as clean and tidy as possible. Keep down weeds, pick oft dead leaves and faded flowers, fix neat stakes to those °^^u'"f support, keep the grass verges in perfect trim with edging-iron and shears, clip plant edgings as required and mow the grass if necessary. In this district, however' It is too cold for the latter yet. Bear in mind that iii paying close attention to these apparently minor details there lies to a great extent the difference between a pleasing and satisfactory bed or border and a slovenly and unattractive jumble. Sweet Peas.— Make another sowing in pots— the final one— on lines laid down in a previous calendar. If brought on without a check even these will come into bloom a considerable time in advance of those already or about to be sown in the open, and will form fine clumps. In this sowing we arrange to include most of the new and choice sorts, and they generally turn out well, blooming freely and comparatively early, and lasting in bloom until killed by frost. Those sown early and now through the soil should be kept near the glass to induce a sturdy, hardy growth, so as to be in readiness for planting out in due time and favourable weather. JOHN EOBEETS The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlch, North Wales. INDOOR GARDEN. Jacobinias. — Cuttings of these most useful winter- Howering plants should now be inserted. Use a lio-ht sandy soil. It is, perhaps, preferable to root them singly in small pots, but where space is limited place three or four cuttings round the sides of Sl-inch pots In a propagating frame with bottom-heat they soon root To obtain large flower-heads it is necessary to restrict the growth to one or two shoots in some of the varieties To obtain good specimens, two or three plants should be grown m a pot. J. chrysostephana, with its golden yellow heads of flowers and dark green leaves, is one of the best especially for a cool greenhouse. J. magnifica vars. carnea and pohhana, J. ghiesbreghtiana, and J. coccinea are all worthy of a place in any collection of greenhouse plants Ihe latter is better if grown in an intermediate house till in flower. Similar treatment will suit cuttings of Peris- trophe (Justicia) speciosa. They require pinching several times during the growing season to form bushy plants COLEUS THYRsoiDEns.-The introduction of this plant has proved a valuable addition for conservatory decoration in winter, lasting in flower from December to March the colour, a rich blue, is scarce during this season Cut off the spikes as the plants go out of flower, and place in an intermediate house. As it is a quick-growing plant propagation should not be commenced before May or the beginning of June. •' Grasses.— These are invaluable for mi.King with or as an edging to flowering plants. The majority are increased by division, one or two by cuttings. Carex brunnea variegata Isolepis gracilis, and Eulalia japonica variegata should be taken in hand about this date, divided up, and Dotted Insert cuttings of Panicum variegatum, and the tons of Cyperus alternifolms. Arrhenatherum erianthum (bul- bosum) IS a useful variegated Grass for spring decorati,,n notably with bulbs, beiSg now at its best Thf diWston and potting of this plant is best done early in January Freesias and other Plants.— After flowering Fre'esia bulbs are often neglected. This is just the tfme they require the most attention if good flowering bulbs are expected for the following year. Place on a shelf or other light position in the greenhouse, and give occasional doses of manure water. Cut back Reinwardtias, and place in a temperature of about 60° to produce cuttings Cut back plants of Solanum capsicastrum intended to be grown on for another year. Insert cuttings to obtain a batch of young plants. Repot Saxifraga Fortunei, dividing the clumps If more are required. Fibrous loam, leaf-mould mortar rubble, and sand form a suitable compost to «nhi, H!' ,"?' S™"" '" " '^"I'i '■■"^e- Sow seeds of Schizanthus, Mignonette, and Lobelia tenuior for succes- sion. Do not neglect the forced bulbs after flowering If taken care of, properly ripened off, and grown in the reserve gaiden for a year or two the majority of them can be used for forcing again. Boyal Botanic Gardcna, Kew. A. OsBORN. FRUIT GARDEN. FINE-APPI.ES. — Fruits which are approaching ripeness sliould, if possible, be moved to a light, dry house, which will improve them both in colour and flavour. The earliest tjueens now require to be treated very liberally. The atmosphere must be always kept in a humid condition by frequently damping the paths and walls of the house. The roots must not be allowed to become at all dry. Give them copious supplies of liquid m inure and guano water, and, when syringing in the afternoon, the water may be weakly diluted with either of these manures and syringed about the stems and surface of the pots. Discontinue syringing when the fruits are in bloom, and keep the atmosphere moderately dry. Plants which were potted last month must be pushed on as rapidly as possible. The roots are now entering the new soil, and it will be safe to give them a thorough watering. Syringe them freely on line afternoons, and close the house early. Maintain at all times a moist atmosphere, and give every encourage- ment during the coming season to build up robust and vigorous plants. Take off suckers from plants which have fruited, and pot and start them at once. Give them the same liberal treatment as advised atjove. Do not allow the plants to get dry at the roots or potbound before repotting. The temperature on mild nights may be kept at 75"^, but 5° lower will be suflScient if the weather is cold. Exercise great care in ventilating during the spring months, admitting plenty of air before noon on favourable occasions, but avoid cold draughts. Take care the bottom- heat does not fluctuate. Cucumbers. — Plants which were raised early in the year are now fruiting. Top-dress them as soon as the roots appear on the surface with a mixture of two parts loam and one of horse manure which has been well fermented. Do not add too much at one time, but rather a little at frequent intervals. Do not allow the plants while young to carry more fruits than are required, or premature exhaustion will follow. Regulate the growths, and do not allow them to.ramble too far before pinching. Eeep them well supplied with moisture both at the roots and in the atmosphere. Syringe them occasionally with a weak mixture of soft soap and sulphur to keep off red spider. Make preparations for a planting in cold frames. Splendid crops may be grown in this way at a minimum cost and trouble. Make a hot-bed with stable litter and leaves. Cover the bed with a few inches of half-rotten leaves. Take full advantage of sunshine by closing early in the afternoon after charging the pit with moistiire. Hardy Fruit Garden.— When pruning and training are finished, attention may be given to cleaning and forking over fruit quarters and paths. Much good may be done to old plantations by forking in wood ashes, burnt garden refuse, or anything of a stimulating nature which may be at hand. Lose no time in burning all prunings and cleanings from fruit trees, so that eggs and insects may be destroyed before becoming active. E. HARRiss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor, Sutton s Imperial are sorts that can always be depended upon for summer use. Favourite varieties of Brussels Sprouts are .Sutton's Exhibition and Matchless. Sked Potatoes.— Look over stores of these. Select tubers of suitable size for sets to be in readiness for planting. Special care must be used when handling in Older not to damage the young shoots. .Spread out thinly on the floor of shed or cellar, where they can be kept cool and free from frost. Lettuce.— Prick out young Lettuce plants near a sunny wall or other sheltered position. Sow more seed on borders between rows of early Peas. J Jeffrey The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcutibri/jht. KITCHEN GARDEN. Onions.— In every garden considerable supplies of Onions are indispensable, and the importance of obtaining sufficient crops can hardly be overestimated. The first difficulty likely to be encountered is an attack of the Onion fly, which begins its mischief by laying eggs on the young leaves when from 1 inch to 3 inches high. In a few weeks the maggot is formed and emerges from the leaves, boring its way down to the root of the plant and effecting its speedy destruction. In order to circumvent these operations I have for a number of years adopted the plan of making the soil very fine and drawing it over the young plants until the tips only appear above ground. This is done when the Onions are 2 inches high, and the process is repeated ten days or a fortnight later. I do not claim that this method ensures complete immunity from attacks of the Onion maggot, but I can safely affirm that since its adoption I am every year able to secure an abundant supply of good Onions. As soon as a dry bed can be obtained for the seed the main crop of Onions should be sown on ground that was early cleared and well prepared in autumn. As ground intended for Onions cannot be too firm it will only be necessary to stir the surface slightly so as to procure a fine mould for covering the seed. Tread firmly before drawing out drills 12 inches apart and about 1 inch deep. Sow very thinly that no thinning out may be required. At this period any disturbance to the plants will be to their disadvantage. When the seeds are sown drawn in the soil with the feet, treading firmly ; complete by running a rake lightly over it parallel with the rows. Leeks.— In order to keep root crops conveniently together my practice is to sow the main crop of Leeks near the Onion ground. The main sowing may now be made as advised for Onions, only the ground need not be quite so firm. When thinning time arrives those drawn out are planted for the main crop. Plants that remain in the seed row will be ready very early for flavouring or other puiposes. Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts.- Good sowings of each should now be made on ground that is in good con- dition, for to obtain flrst-rate Cabbages and Brussels Sprouts they must be quickly grown. If raised on poor seed-beds and planted on indifferent ground the result can never be satisfactory. Slowly-grown Cabbages and Sprouts lose all the sweet crispness so much to be desired m succulent vegetables. Sow not too thickly in drills J inches apart and about 1 inch deep. Enfield Market and ORCHIDS. Chysis.— C. bractescens, C. aurea, C, Limminghei. and C. licvis are all deciduous epiphytal Orchids from .South America, and in their native country are often seen hanging from the larger branches of trees by their roots alone. They are a beautiful class of plants, and well worth culti- vating, so also are the handsome hybrids C. Sedenii and C. Chelsonii, both raised by Mr. Seden. As these plants are now fast developing their flower-spikes, which push up along with the new growths, they should be afforded more generous treatment. Suspend them at the warmest end of the Cattleya house, and afford them moderate quantities of water until the flowers fade. At that time the plants commence to emit new roots, when, if necessary, they may be repotted. Chysis may be cultivated either in pots or Teak wood baskets. I prefer the ordinary Orchid pot, as the plants are more easily managed, and the roots less disturbed when potting becomes necessary. The pots should have perforated holes just beneath the rim, so that with wire handles attached to them the plants are easily suspended well up to the roof glass. Afford ample drainage, and use a mixture composed of two-thirds sphagnum moss and one of fibrous peat, adding a little leaf-soil, broken crocks, and coarse sand. Chysis may be propagated by cutting through the rhizome at the base of the second pseudo-bulb behind the leading growth. This may be done at the present time, and after the plants have done flowering they may be divided and repotted separately. In the intermediate house The Brazilian Miltonias, as M. spectabilis, M. more- liana, &c., are now growing and rooting freely, and, in consequence, stand in need of increased quantities of water at the roots. Keep these plants shaded from all strong sunshine or the foliage will become too yellow and unsightly. The Columbian Miltonia vexillaria and its numerous distinct varieties, also the beautiful hybrid M. bleuana and its variety nobilior are also in full growth, and plenty of water should be given each time a plant becomes dry. With increased light and more natural warmth their surroundings are kept fairly moist. The rare M. Endresii has done flowering and is now at rest, therefore until growth recommences very little water is needed at the root, and if not carefully applied t he growths are extremely liable to turn black and decay. All the Miltonias mentioned should have fresh air in abundance whenever the weather is suitable. I may add that at Burford the lower ventilators directly under the plants are always open whenever the external air is above 45''. When the leaves of M. vexillaria, its varieties, and hybrids are tinged with a soft bronzy purple it generally indicates that the plants are in vigorous health. Now that plants of M. vexillaria are growing fast they should be examined occasionally, as some of the leaves stick to each other so firmly as to check the youngest leaves, causing them to crinkle and become disfigured. When this is observed liberate the leaves by passing a smooth thin piece of wood or the handle of a budding knife between them, and at the same time see that none of the spikes stick to the leaves. The deciduous section of Calanthes will soon require attention as to repotting, therefore it is advisable to get in a sulfloient quantity of good yellow fibrous loam and place it upon the potting bench or some other convenient spot where it will get just warm, but not too dry, and it will be ready for use when required. Burford Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. W E invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub,"Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Sweet-scented Persian Cyclamens. Mr. Strange sends from Alderniaston flowers of sweet-scented race of Persian Cyclamen, to 166 THE GARDEN. [Makch is, rjcj5. which he has been devoting much attention of recent years, and the result is most promising. A rosy pink variety has the perfume of the Blue- bell, and the colour is bright, with, perhap?, a little too much mauve in it. Mr. Strange also sends flowers of Sutton's Giant White variety, which is well known as one of the finest of its race. Seedlikg Amaryllis. Mr. E, A. Hall sends from The Gardens, Holm- rook Hall, Cumberland, a flower of a seedling Amaryllis, conspicuously bright in colour, which is a glowing scarlet, and shapely, but the raising of Amaryllises has been brought to so great per- fection that a variety must be of exceptional e.xcellence to merit a distinct name. The seedling sent is not worth this, but we advise our corre- spondent not to cease raising new flowers ; it is interesting and sometimes a profitable pastime. Primula obconioa. Mr. Finlay sends from The Mount, East Layton, Darlington, flowers of Primula oboonica in many colourings. Our correspondent writes that he has been working to obtain a beautiful strain of flowers for some years. The colours lose none of their charm when seen under artificial light. Some of the plants have as many as three dozen spikes of bloom on them. French Bean Veitch's Early Wonder and Early Flowers. Mr. Crook sends from the Forde Abbey Gardens, Chard, Somerset, pods of this excellent early Bean, and well remarks: "This is surely an Early ' Wonder ' ; the pods were produced in seven weeks from the time of sowing the seed, and grown in boxes near the glass." Mr. Crook also sends flowers of the blue Scillas and Iris reticulata, which are always welcome. Violet Mrs. Arthur. Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton Hill Nursery, Twerton-on-Avon, Bath, send flowers of a new double Violet, which is called Mrs. Arthur. The colour is a deeper blue than in other Parma Violets, and the fragrance is very rich. Our correspondent describes the plant as "a better and more vigorous grower than any other double Violet we know." The Violet is so sweet a flower that we cannot have too many varieties, if these are distinct from, or an improvement upon, those already in existence. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. Cinerarias. Messrs. Clibrans, Altrincham, Cheshire, have sent a selection of Cineraria flowers representing their strain. They write : " We have specialised in Cinerarias together with other flowers for some years, and our efforts have been rewarded with some excellent strains." We agree with Messrs. Clibrans' remarks, for the blooms sent certainly indicate a high standard of excellence. They are large, finely formed, and the colours are rich and clear. Particularly good are the purple and deep rose flowers, and those having white centres surrounded by crimson-purple and blue respectively. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— r*e Editor inteiuis to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire as^st- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and unththat object will make a special feature of the " Aiisicers to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely icritten on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EditoK of THE GARDEN, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on bicsi- ness should be sent to the PUBLISHER. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Early Daffodils from Ireland. From the Ard Cairn Nurseries, Cork, Mr. W. Baylor Hartland sends a delightful lot of early Daffodils, and writes on the iTth ult. that " they were grown on grass land, and could have been gathered ten days earlier." Mr. Hartland says Cervantes and North Star were fully open under glass before Christmas. Among the Daffodils were the following varieties : Tuscan bicolor. Golden Fleece, Buttercup, Claddagh, Ard Righ, Pallidas pra:oox. Early Bird, and Cervantes ; the latter Mr. Hartland considers the best of all. Names of Plants. — W. H. .©.—Being packed in dry cotton wool and tissue paper the speci- mens were far too shrivelled up to identify. All that can be said is that No. 1 is a Selaginella ; 2, may be Festuca glauca ; 3, Dendrobium undu- latum. While anxious to oblige our correspon- dents in the naming of specimens, we wish to point out that in many cases the task is rendered far more difhoult by, in the first place, only a tiny scrap being sent ; and, next, the absence of any information concerning the plant itself, whether grown in the open ground or under glass. When the fact that there are thousands of different plants in cultivation is taken into consideration, our request for the fullest informa- tion can only be regarded as a reasonable one. /. W. Y. — 1, Odontoglossum pulchellum ; 2, 0. Rossi raajus ; 3, Crinum Moorei ; 4, Liriope spioata, often known as Liriope graminifolia. Names of Fruit. — W. W. — 1, Limb Abbey Pearmain ; '2, Reinette Grise ; 3, Bess Pool. W. Philips. — The Apple is Tibbett'a Pearmain. H. E. J. de Jersey. — 1, Cat's-head ; 2, Nor- folk Beefing ; 3, Wiltshire Defiance. Short Replies. — R. G. — Write to the Direc- tor. A New Suhicriber. — The "English Flower Garden " is the book ; ISs. ; to be had from William Robinson, 17, Furnival Street, Holborn, London. Elaine. — " Botanical Names for English Readers," by Randal H. Alcock. London : Reeve and Co. (1876) ; also first supplement to Nicholson's Dictionary. Bulbs in Boxes (A. Oldjield). — (1) Yes, boxes of the size you mention would suit the Crocuses, Tulips, &c. Instead of making holes in the bottom of the boxes we should prefer to make them in the sides near the bottom. You need not have 3 inches of drainage, 1 J inches would be ample. Use crooks, that is, pieces of broken flower pots, and be careful to cover the holes effectually with them. You need use neither sand nor charcoal. (2) Tubs would be more suit- able than either boxes or pots, and more attrac- tive also. The size would, of course, depend upon the size of your plant. When this is taken out of the ground measure across the mass of soil and roots, and then allow an inch more on either side; this will give you the diameter of tub required. Repotting M.\sdevallias (B. F. Hull). — Y'ou should wait till about the middle of September before repotting your plants. The temperature you have aftbrded is correct, but from the autumn till early in March they require little water, only sutilcient to prevent the leaves from shrivel- ling. For potting a good compost consists of two-fifths fibrous peat, the same of chopped sphag- num, and one-fifth leaf-soil, to which add a fair sprinkling of coarse sand and small crocks. Mix the whole well together. For the erect-flowering forms pots are the best receptacles, half filling them with rhizomes well chopped placed over a few bottom crocks. Pot rather lightly and surface with chopped sphagnum, keeping the top of the moss and the base of growth on a level with the rim of the pot. If the surface soil is sour work out as much as possible and resurface with the above compost. This may be done at once. Masdevallias should be well shaded from strong sunshine after the middle of this month, and give plenty of fresh air. Garden Soil and Manures (Weston). — 0\ve, if possible, at once a 4-inch or 6-inch dressing of clay over the entire garden. This, with deep digging when the clay had become well pulverised by frost, would enable the soil to grow almost anything for years to come. We hardly know whether it is real guano or merely the residue from compressed sewage rendered dry and powdered. If the latter you may apply it as freely as you wish, sowing it broadcast over the surface, and finally fork it in. If the latter employ it at the rate of a half peck to 12 square yards or 14 square yards. These are usually given in addition to horse or cow manure dressings, and as you cannot obtain cow manure the next best is horse manure, fairly decayed and unmixed with peat moss, which is not suited to light soils generally. Planting Garden ( ir. R. Bright). — You might try a Gloire de Dijon Rose on the shed. You appear to have manured the land fairly well, and have probably broken it up deeply. If you divide the border into 4 feet spaces you might plant one with Cabbages, another with Lettuces, a third with Onions, and so on, following with Turnip-rooted Beet, Canadian Wonder Beans, Early Horn Carrots, Brussels Sprouts, or any- thing you may fancy as far as the land permits. If you find the Gloire de Dijon succeeds on the shed you might next season try others, but you are not far enough out of the smoke to plant any Rosea but the hardiest. Pinks and Carnations will do well, as will also Canterbury Bells. Chrysanthemums ought to do by the fences better than Michaelmas Daisies. Cactus Dahlias will do, and Sweet Williams. We are assuming you know the value of frequent surface stirring during growth. You might lay in a little stock of lime for the use of the slugs, &c. Annuals, &o. , for Bed (/. Cet). — The arrangement cannot be greatly improved upon unless you worked upon the system of one bed one colour — as, eg, Ageratum for one, yellow Antirrhinum for another. Stocks for another, and so on. You could modify this by using a margin 6 inches wide to each bed of Tufted Pansies of a colour distinct from the primary colour in the group. No. 4 bed is that requiring readjusting most in the matter of colour perhaps, and w« would prefer the Dianthus in No. 4 taking the place of the Stocks in No. 1. The only other suggestion we have to make is that you endeavour to have your plants of one colour. No. I, we note, contains mixed Antirrhinums. In place of this you might plant a crimson-flowered sort, if you retain the Stocks in the position now shown. With these more definite self-tones you will obtain greater effect and probably greater satis- faction. Kalanciioe flammea {Halifax). — You say nothing of the size of your plants or of the pots in which they are growing, but there is little doubt they will bloom in due course, for even small pieces in 2i-inch pots will often flower. They need a good light position and a warm greenhouse temperature — that is to say, a struc- ture which at this season does not fall below 50", and runs up 10* or even 20'' with sun-heat. If in small or comparatively small pots a little weak liquid manure occasionally will be beneficial. Though they need a regular supply of water at the roots, it must not be overdone, and, in common with most plants of a decidedly succulent character, a fairly dry rather than a moisture- laden atmosphere is best for them. As a rule, this Kalanchoe flowers from the latter part of May onwards, so that there is yet ample time for your plants to develop their blossoms. March 18, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 167 Hydrangka PANionLATA (Cotipar). — This flowers best on the current season's growths, so cut the shoots down to within two or three buda of the base. Strong shoots will then break forth, and these will flower next summer. Carnations Diseased ((?. /. M.). — The leaves are badly affected with " spot," which is not likely to kill the plants ; but the swelling at the base of the leaves is evidence of the presence of eelworm. If this pest has spread over the plants the case is hopeless. It is best to destroy all affected plants, as there is no cure for it. Rhododendron Dying (/. C. A.). — The old wood is firm and there is a chance of saving it. Remove the plant to another spot at once, preparing a bed of peat and good soil for it, and giving a mulching of well-rotted manure after planting. Rhododendrons sometimes make a very hard ball of soil, and the roots may not have got away from the ball of soil it had when you first planted it. If such is the case, loosen it with a pointed stick to give the roots a chance to strike out into the fresh soil. About the end of May cut back to the three year old wood. It will be two years before it will flower much. Slugs among Alpines {D. V.). — Place half a bushel of fresh lime in a 36-gallon cask, thoroughly stirring it, and allowing it to settle before it is used. You may use a rather coarse rose watering- pot when applying it ; or, as many slugs are merely in hiding beneath the tufts of the plants, a surface dusting of freshly air-slaked lime will be excellent. In applying the lime-dust raise the tufts where these are most dense, and strew it well beneath ; give also a dusting among such tufted things as the Phloxes. Soot may be also applied freely in the same way, and over the plants, too. A few applications at intervals of several days will be necessary. Planting Christjias Roses and Border Auriculas (E. H.). — Plant Christmas Roses in August and SepteralDer, as then the new main roots emerge from the rhizome, and the object is to so plant that the work is completed before these roots are produced. Two sets of root fibres only are produced each year in these plants. Christmas Roses are replanted extensively in spring as the new foliage appears, and in this way the chief roots are cut and damaged and die back often to the crown, the plants taking a long time to recover. On the other hand, when planted early in September, for this is generally early enough, the plants hardly feel the shift. The Auriculas you should obtain at once and plant without delay. Japanese Chrysanthemums, M. Henri Jaootot and Jeanne Delaux {F. W. H.). — The two sorts are quite distinct, although they were both raised by Delaux, who, as a French raiser, was very successful twenty years ago. Jeanne Delaux was introduced in 1882, and M. Henri Jacotot in 1883. The former is described in the Centenary Edition of the National Chrysanthemum Society's catalogue, published in 1890, as "dark crimson-maroon, quite velvety in appearance, very distinct and effective, blooms large, florets narrow, long and straight, spread- ing, mid-season, rather tall." The description of the second variety, from the same source, is as follows: "Rich crimson, shaded gold, medium size blooms, florets reflexed, early and dwarf." Late-flowering Single Chrysanthemums FOR Christmas [Chrysanths]. — As to the system of culture to follow with the late varieties of the single-flowered Chrysanthemums, we can only refer you to the advice given elsewhere under "Answers to Correspondents." Follow the advice therein given to the letter, and with the singles you should do exceedingly well. Procure the following varieties : Framfield Beauty, deep rich velvety crimson ; Kate Williams, yellow, flushed terra-cotta; America, white, shaded blush ; Disraeli, primrose, very free flowering ; Mrs. Baillie, chestnut ; Mrs. John Piatt, lovely rose-pink ; Nora Davies, reddish terra-cotta ; and Treasure, a sraall-flowered bright yellow sort. Purity, white, with bold green eye, is a capital plant when pinched for the last time in mid-July. Propagating Discovery Potato {J.H. W.). — What you propose to do with your lib. of Discovery Potato, or indeed any other variety, in gentle warmth, to cause them to sprout from the eyes, is very well, but do not put them in a dark place, but in full light. We advise you to get a small shallow box, place in the bottom a little cocoanut fibre or fine sandy soil, then put on that the tubers, sprinkle a little fine material about them, and damp them with water. That course will cause the eyes to break more evenly. Get your partitioned box or boxes, the parti- tions to be 4 inches square, taking care that two or three small holes be bored or burned in the bottom of each partition. Put in 2 inches of soil, and as the eyes shoot cut each one out and put it so as to be just covered in the centre of each partition. As growth is made, add a little fine soil for the shoots to root in. Keep in full light, or the growths will become drawn and weak. When from 4 inches to 6 inches in height the plants must be gradually hardened, and thus be strong, ready to lift soil and roots from each par- tition and be planted out, as you suggest, in rows 3 feet apart and 13 inches apart in the rows. Discovery is a tall, strong grower, and needs ample room. So far as we see you have no other course open but to leave the plants in your signal box at night and on Sunda3's, but probably no frosts now would harm them. After all, the produce of your plants will be much deter- mined by the quality of the soil in which it is grown. Planting Vines (Beacon). — We should prefer to plant the Vines inside the house. In a properly constructed vinery the front wall is built on arches, so that the roots can make their way through them to the border outside. If your vinery has not these you must knock holes in to allow them to penetrate outside if you wish them to. You would probably find, how- ever, that if you make up a good border inside that will prove sufficient. Turves chopped into about six pieces with a spade, with lime and brick rubble and wood ashes, and a good sprink- ling of bones form an excellent material. To each cartload of soil add a barrowful each of wood ashes and lime and mortar rubble and a peck of J-inch bones. Take care that the drainage is good ; broken bricks do well. Upon these place whole turves, grass downwards, then the mixed soil. Plant firmly. Climbers (/V. C.).— You could plant Clematis montana, C. Jackmani, or C. paniculata in the position you describe. Of the three we should recommend the first, as it is a strong grower, and very pretty when in bloom. The Clematis will not cling to any wall without support, and a light wire trellis will be helpful in supporting it, while it also saves disfiguring the wall with nails. C. montana and C. paniculata require no pruning, except the thinning out of the growths in winter, if they become too thick, while C. Jackmani should be cut back in spring just before growth commences. Flower Border (E. H. T., PiUnei/).~We should advise you to devote the small i foot wide border to dwarf Roses, with poles in the centre for climbing Roses. Leave the large bed its full length, do not divide it into smaller ones. Reduce it, however, in width ; make it either 10 feet or 12 feet wide, the remainder to be grass. We think you will get a much belter effect by this arrangement. Manure the soil. You must arrange the plants in groups of colour, say, in this order : White, grey, pale blue, blue, pale yellow, yellow, orange, red, yellow, blue, grey, white, thus beginning and ending with white. You must try and arrange the plants so that the several shades of each colour harmonise — thus, in blue begin with pale, then deep to purple, and so on with the other colours. You will probably not get the shades of colour quite right the first season, but take nolea of the defects and remedy them next year. We can only give you short lists here ; you ought to be able to make a suitable selection of perennials and annuals from a good catalogue. W/iite, Anemone sylveslris, A. japoniea. Phlox, Galtonia, Chrysanthemum maximum. Lupin, and Sweet Pea ; Grei/, Eryngiura, Achillea, and Antennaria ; Blue, Campanula persicifolia, C. carpalica, Flag Irises, Pansies, Myosotis, Gentianella, Delphinium,, Lupin, and Auehusa ; Yellow and Orange, Heli- anlhus in varieties. Day Lily, Evening Primrose (CEnothera), Marigolds, Liliums, Nasturtiums, and Coreopsis; Reds, Lobelia cardinalis, Tritoma, Pentstemon, Phlox, Hollyhock, Poppies, and Carnations. Rose for West Wall (^V. C.).—A wall facing west is not a good place for a Rose, but you could try Aim(5e Vibert, Gloire de Dijon, Celine Forestier, or W. A. Richardson. The last mentioned is better when in a partially shaded place, as the flowers lose colour when exposed to the full sun. As an alternative to the Rose we could recommend Crataigus Pyracantha or Forsythia suspensa, both of which do well in a west aspect. By planting Ferns near the wall you will limit the plants in front to low- growing subjects. For these you could use Ber- beris Aquifolium, Cotoneaster microphylla, the Savin, and Skimmia oblata as a groundwork, planting Arabis albida, Alyssum saxatile, Iberis sempervirens, Helenium autumnale pumilum, Veronica gentianoidea, &c., between and in front of them. If you have the Ferns in the front of the border you could plant Spirfea A. Waterer, S. Thunbergi, Brooms of sorts, Forsythias, and Ribes for flowers behind them, using a few Hollies, Yews, Skimmias, and Phillyrseas for evergreens amongst the flowering subjects. Basic Slag as Manure Dressing (0. W. G.). An application of basic slag as manure dressing made in the spring is apt to be disappointing, because, arising from its semi-metallic nature, it is long in becoming soluble. Practically it hardly dissolves at all in water, but in garden soils in which there is a fair proportion of unused dung or humus it dissolves more readily. But to get from it its full value as a manure it should be applied early in the winter and well dug or forked in, that it may be incorporated with the soil. If not applied till the spring its effect for the season may be nil. It is a good phosphatic manure and is excellent for all descriptions of fruit, pod, or root producing plants, and is even good for leaf plants, such as Cabbages and Lettuces, all of which need more of nitrogen. To get any benefit from artificial manures the best to apply now, for we are close to the spring, is fish guano, com- bining in itself the three essential ingredients, phosphates, potash, and nitrogen. This is quick acting, is good for all crops, is fairly cheap, and may be applied to ground at the rate of 61b. or so per rod. Failing that manure, get bone-flour, steamed or dissolved in sulphuric acid, and kainit (potash). Well crush the latter, then mix with the bone-flour, and apply to ground at once at the rate of 51b. per rod. To that dressing, or equally to one of basic slag, should be added, where growth has begun by crops, 31b. per rod finely crushed sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda, as these salts dissolve quickly, and when at once hoed or pointed in are readily utilised by growing crops. It is worthy of note that very liberal applications of basic slag pointed in about starved fruit trees give them in a couple of years new life and energy. The value of basic slag to some extent is in its fineness, therefore in purchasing it exceeding fineness as ground should be made a primary condition, also a guarantee as to purity should be obtained. 168 THE GAEDEN. [March 18, I'JO?. Water Lily for Tun (J/. Mil/urd). —The white form of Nyraph;i.>i caroliniana woald suit you best. N. pygmaiM Helvola with yellow flowers is very suitable for tubs. Heating Small Greexhoose (Dublin). — To heal a small greenhouse by introducing into it a copper cylinder connected with the bath- heating boiler would be rather a poor substitute for a proper apparatus. In mild weather the arrangement proposed may add just 2^^ or 3" of warmth to the house, but in severe weather it would fail entirely, as then only a well-arrant^ed heating apparatus could keep out frost. The warmth from a cylinder fixed just within one end of a house would hardly affect the remoter portion. We should not like to recommend any arrangement which, in stress of weather, would certainly prove to be sadly inefficient. If you want to heat your greenhouse securely either have hot-water pipes carried from your boiler round the house, and returning to it, or else fix a small boiler and furnace at one end with sufficient 3-inch piping attached to heat the house, when needed, securely. Gentians (M. E. W.). — We presume by " large and small" Gentians you are referring to G. acaulis (large) and G. verna (small). It is quite possiljle to raise both kinds from seeds, though the process is slow and rather tedious. The seeds, if not quite fresh, germinate slowly, and often with uucertainty. From seeds sown at once your plants should appear in early summer, and if thinly sown could remain till February, 1906, before replanting. Pans of light and very sandy soil are best, the seeds to be covered very lightly indeed, and a darkened piece of glass placed on each to stay evaporation. Even strong seedlings do not flower until two or three years. If you only require a few plants these could be had for a few shillings. Carnations in Pots (Novice, Loyells). — Assuming that the Carnations j'ou have pur- chased are now in 3-inch pots, and have filled these with roots, as should be the case, it is time they had a shift into 5-inch pots, or, as commonly called, 4S'.-'. If you have these pots in quite new and dry, give them exposure to the weather, or dip each pot in water for a few minntes, then stand them out to drain dry before using them. Your compost for Carnations should be of the best — two-thirds good pasture loam that has been exposed in a heap for several months, the other third being composed of old hotbed manure, sifted mortar refuse, wood ashes, soot, and sand. This makes a capital compost. Put into each pot one large crock, and on that half an inch thickness of small crocks, next some of the coarser parts of the compost, and on that a little of the finer portion ; then pot the plants, slightly loosening the roots before doing so. Fix the soil in round the plants fairly firm. By the middle of May a further shift into 8-inch pots, putting two plants into a pot, and using similar compost, is desirable. Treatment 01- Lawn (AT. J. C). — It is probable that the finer grasses, which are infinitely the best for forming a dense and even surface, have been overwhelmed by those of coarser growth. If this be so — and if there are tussock-like tufts in which the blades of grass may be anything from a quarter of an inch in width and upwards— the top-dressing would tend to make these grow more strongly, to the detriment of all else. It is not, therefore, as you will see, so much the abundance of the " roof as it is the quality or variety of the gras.ses that abound. A not infrequent grass in neglected areas is the Cock's- foot Grass, a strong tufted grass, the crowns of which are raised higher than the ordinary level, and a scythe set low down on the lawn invariably cuts into the heart of the tuft. If any such exist the tufts should be dug out, and, indeed, any coarse-growing kinds. This done, you should level up the surface by lifting the turf, raising the soil to the required level, and relaying the turf. For filling in below the turf finely-sifted ashes miy be used with fine soil. When this is finished, and any patches made good by the addilion of a little fresh turf, a good rolling may be given on a dry day, and repeated in the opposite direction a day or two later. At this stage you may apply a dressing of old potting soil, and very short manure, to the entire surface of the lawn, covering it at least half an inch thick. This done, the soil may be further levelled by using the back of a rake, and finally by sweeping it in with a long broom. Wood ashes, or the fine ash from the garden rubbish fire may be used on the surface, but we do not recommend coal or coke ash for the purpose. The sweeping may be done once a week, and a good rolling on a fairly dry day as often. In a few weeks 3'ou will see what improvement exists, and if this does not meet your approval sow some good grass lawn mixture over all in April, and cover lightly with fine soil. By sending the size of the lawn to any of the large seed houses the correct quantity will be supplied. From your description, too, we think this step will be neces- sary to ensure a good and bright green sward. GLADioLns IN Pots is the Open (A Beginner). If you are really a beginner in the cultivation of these plants get from a good firm mixed seedlings. The chief items are a very rich soil, loam, old well-decayed manure, a little artificial manure or bone-meal, say a 6-inch polful to each barrow of soil, and some sharp grit. Mix all together and use in a moderately dry state. Pots of 8 inches or 9 inches diameter would be suitable for three or four bulbs respectively, the bulbs to be buried 1 inch deep. The pots should be well hut not overdrained. One large-sized oyster- shell placed hollow side down over the hole in the pot's bottom will do quite well. Over this put some rough turf or manure, and then fill the pots moderately firm two-thirds their depth before placing in the bulbs. Allow a space of 1 inch or nearly so between the surface soil and the rim of the pot, so that later on when water is given there will be ample room. Not much water is required at the start, but when in free growth there must be no stint. Field-mice in Violet Frame (.4. L. E.). — Our correspondent says that the mice are proof against traps and any kind of poison, as these have been tried and failed. We would suggest a trial of the old-fashioned figure -t trap. We have never known it to fall when carefully baited with burnt cheese applied fresh every day. Most gardeners and garden labourers know how to make the trap. Failing this remedy we should hunt for their nests, which will not be far away, and when found they can easily be destroyed. An application of gas-tar on their tracks or runs will generally drive them away. Annual Flowers for Small Borders (D. C. L.). — The following hardy annuals may probably suit, and can be sown thinly where they are to flower: For flower beds— Godetia Duchess of Albany (white), Lady Albemarle (carmine), Duke of York (rose), and Mandarin pale yellow. Bed No. 2 — Nemesia strumosa Suttoni, N. compacta cierulea. N. alba, N. flori- bunda, Xemophila insignis, X. alba, X. macu- lata, N. atrocierulea, X'igella damascena (Love-in-a-Miat) (double white); Gaillardia lorenzlana makes a neat bed ; Larkspur, branching ; Nasturtiums Tom Thumb (distinct colouring) and Empress of India (crimson) makes a good bed ; Phlox Drummondi should be sown in a box to bloom early ; Phacelia campanularia (blue) makes a neat low bed ; Visoaria Burrldgei (white), V. cardlnalls (scarlet), V casrulea (blue), and V. c«lia rosa (rose), neat habited plants ; Leptosiphon in variety, beautiful for small beds ; Tom Thumb Antirrhinums in variety, to be sown in boxes and pricked out for early flowering ; dwarf Stocks, Asters, Chinese Pinks, Verbenas, Petunias, and dwarf Marigolds to be sown under glass, and pricked out ; blue Lobelia. Cow AND ARTIiiriAL MANURES (H. vent Garden, W.C. New Bybrid Gladioli.— B.. H. Groff, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada. Cannas, i-e.—J. B. A. Deleuil et flls, Hyeres (Var), France. SeetZs.— Wilhelm Pfltzer. Stuttgart. Select Plants and Seeds.— F„. H. Bath, Limited, The Floral Farms. Wisbech. Garden Koit'c?-s.— William Watson and Sons, Clontarf Nurseries. Dublin. Vegetable and Flower Seeds.— T. Kershaw, Bleali House Nurseries, Cross Roads, Keighley, Yorks ; Richard Dean, i2, Rmelagh Road, Eiling. TRADE NOTES. Native Gdano. The attention of agriculturists and gardeners is requested to this manure extracted from town sewage, and contain- ing the well-known valuable properties of cesspool matter. The reports received from practical farmers and horticul- turists entitle it to rank as one of the best and cheapest manures. Its effects, iioth immediate and lasting, show it to be the natural manure for the soil, returning what has been taken froiu it. This, together with its moderate price and fertilising qualities, has caused it to be exten- sively used throughout the country. It is of great value for root and grain crops, grass, Hops, Vines, Pines, fruit trees, vegetables, and all floral and kitchen garden produce. The guano is dry, inodorous, and its fertilising properties are great. It contains nitrogenous matter as well as phosphates, alkaline salts, saponaceous compounds, &c., and has a combination of manurial elements in such pro- porcions as suits the crops, and produces satisfactory results, fully bearing out the opinions of Baron Liebig. Ohlendorfp's Guano. We are remin led Ijy looking over a set of ttiis season's circulars issued by the Anglo-Continental (late Ohlendielder, R. C. Notcutt, and James Walker. A very pleasing exhibit of Primula kewensis. Rhododen- dron veitchianus, Camellii reticulata, with many flue plants of Iraantophyllum were shown by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. The Primula represented by a group of several dozens was profusely flowered. In this group also we noted Senecio anriculatissimu3 from Britisli Central Africa. The yellow starry flower-heads are most freely produced ou forked branches and stems. Silver Banksian medal. Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, filled a table with an exhibit of choice early flowers and flowering shrubs in the background. Everything in the group was arranged with g md effect. We take a few of the more prominent things as Anemone Pulsatilla, A. cernua, with chocolate-coloured flowers ; A. burseriana, pure white, probably a representative of A. aloina from a new source ; Shortia gilacifolia, Sjxifraga Elizibethas, single and double blue Hepaticas, Haberlea rhodopensis, Soldanella alpina, Primula marginata, and others. Silver-gilt Flora medal. Messrs. .7. Laing and S ms, Forest Hill, staged a good group of Olivias and Begonias of the Sempertl-.rens group with others, as President Carnot, B. schiffi ina (white), and others. A rockwork arrangement by Messrs. Pulham and Son, Oxford Street, wa** arranged with Hepaticas, Rock Roses, Primulas, hardy Heaths, and other plants. The Misses Hopkins, Mere, Kmitsford, set up a pretty exhibit of Primulas, D )g's-tooth Violets, Primula etatior cserulea, D lisies, with choice forms of hardy Ferns, (fee. Starry Cinerarias from Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, in great variety of colour, were most interesting, and these, in company with zonal Pelargoniums, filled one long table. It is not possible to describe the dazzling array of colour in these latter, they are most brilliant. Silver Flora medal. A charming group of Clove-scented Wallflower-leaved Stock came from Mr. S. Mortimer, Farnham. This fine pure white Stock is practically a perpetual bloomer, and a perennial ; obviously it is a plant for all to grow who delight in choice fragrant flowers. The plant is well suited to pot cultivation. Silver Banksian medal. A very interesting lot of alpines was staged by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent. The group included a large num- ber of the early Saxifragas, as S. oppositifolia in variety, S. Roehdiana (a fine pure white), S. Boydii, S. B. alba, and many more. Hepaticas, Crocuses, Drabas, and blue and white Squills, were among other beautiful and pretty plants. Flowers of Magnolia Campbelli, with rich rosy pink blossoms, were shown by Lord Ilchester, Abbotsbury Gardens, Dorchester. They were greatly admired. Silver Flora medal. Violets Princess of Wales from Mr. H. Langston, Here- fordshire, were good, and some inte'csting cut specimens of Sariacenias were from Mr. A. J. Bruce, West I'iilsbury, A beautiful lot of alpines in pots and pans cnme from Messrs. George Jackman and Sons, Wuking, Ilepaticaa and Shortia galacifolia, the latter beautifully fluwered, were exceptionally good. Iris Bncharica, yellow and white flowers, with Anemone Pulsatilla, were also in good condition, Fritillaria discolor was shown in flower by Miss WiU- mott, Warley, Essex. It is a most interesting plant, wi ,h greenish purple bell-shaped flowers and yellow internally. The Rises from Mr. G. Mount were rich in colour and handsome. Some of the best were Captain Hayward, Mra. R. G. Sharman Crawford, Liberty (very flne), Mrs. Grant, Ulrich Brunner, Catherine Mermet, and La France. Cut on bold and long stems, with perfect foliage, they attracted the attention of all. Silver b'lora medal. A large lot of Lenten R 'ses in great variety came from the Duchess of Bedford, Rickmansworth (gardener, Mr. Dickson). Many distinct and beautiful kinds, especially in the spotted section, were shown, but, as the varieties were unnamed, we csnnot lefer to them in detail. Messrs. J. Ambro^^e and Son, Cheshunt, staged Cine- Ewias, Mignonette, R ises in the cut state. Daffodils, and other things nf a meful character. Tufa and other rnck siutiil)le fir ornamental work in the conservatory was exhiuited byMr. R. Anker, Napier Road, Kensington. Alpines and allied things were sent by Messrs. Ware and Co., Feltham. Primroses in plenty, a fine display of Saxifraga burseriana and S. sancta, Ramondia pyrenaica, Sarracenia flava in flower, Arabis aubrietioides, Omphal- lodes verna, double crimson Primrose, Lithospernum rosmarinifolium (a charming bit of blue), Hepaticas, double yellow v/allflower, with a collection of Daffodils la pots, made a most interesting display. Bronze Flora medal. Messrs. Birr and Sons, C ivent G irden, contributed in a group of early spring flowers, as Scillas, Hepaticas, hardy Heaths, Saxifragas, Iris reticulata, Sisyrinchium grandi- rtorum (satin-purple flowers), Chionodoxa, Daffodils io variety. Iris stylosa, and such things. Rose Philadelphia Rambler is a rosy crimson variety of the Crimson Rambler, of superior form, and a most abundant bloomer. The foliage is perfectly clean, and of a hard nature likely to resist mildew. The small group of this novelty was from Messrs. H )bbies. Limited. Some well-grown Cyclamen persicum in variety came from Mr. A. B. Wadds, Worth, Sussex, the plants being freely flowered. B onze Buiksian medal. Hardy spring flowers, as Crocuses and Irises, were freely shown by Messrs. \Vailace and Co.. Colchester. Ciocua susianus, rich gulden, was very charming. Anemone blanda and A. Pulsatilla were also notable. Mr. B. S. Williams, Holloway, had a small exhibit of hardy thing-^, in which Muscari botryoides album was in ^ood condiiion. The group of Platyceiiumsand other things from Messrs. T. Hill and Sons, EJmonton, was a most picturesque and attractive one, all the leading kinds being stased in i^roupi. P. Veitchii, P. Hillii, P. alcicorne majus, P. ^rande, and others showed to great advantage. A fine lot >f Polypodium aureum were in the background. Silver- .;ilt Flora medal. Mr. H. B. May, Elraonton, stasred a mixed group of plants, in which Gardenia florida, B>ronias, and a choice lot uf Ferns were seen. Of the latter, Davallia rao"reana, Xephrolepis grand iceps, and many beautiful Gymno- grnmmas were prominent. Silver Flora medal. Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, staged on the floor a fine L'roup of forced shrubs, the Guelder Rose, wiili Lilacs, Pruniises and Pyrus, flowering Currants, and others being prominent. Silver Buiksian medal. Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, staged Tree Carna- tions E'lchantress, Mis. Thomas Lawson, and the Malmaison Carnation Mercia, a fine scarlet kind. Messrs. Cutbush and S ins also staged a handsome group, in which Azaleas, Pyrus, Laburnums, Prunuses, and other plants were finely disposed. The flim also showed Boronia mesastigma, Eiica gracilis vernalis, and Boronia hetero- phylla in fine condition. A magnificent lot of Camellias in pots came from Messrs. William Paul and S.m, Waltham Cross. The finely irrown plants were well flowered throughout, and such as Duchess of Teck, pink ; alba plena, raathotiana, crimson ; Mme. Cachet, pink and white; JMercury, semi-don hie, crimson, were all excellent. Boxes of cut fiowers were al-^o freely displayed, and were most attractive. Silver-gilt B inksian medal. A small exhibit of alpines was shown by Mr. J. R. Boi, Croydon. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, filled a large table with the giant Italian Hyacinths. The plants were grown in 6-inch pots, several bulbs in each, and were very pretty in the mass ; the flowers were pleasantly fragrant. White, pink, and blue were the chief colours shown. A long table was filled with the plants which made a conspicuous feature. With their light and elegant spikes they are especially suited to general decoration. New Plants. Selionopsis breviscarpa. — A pretty low-growing plant from Japan, with small foliage and spikes of almost, squill- like flowers. From Messrs. Barr and Son, Covent Garden. Award of merit. Adonis amurensis Jl.-pl.~A handsome double form of this good early plant. The yellow blossoms are very pretty, and rendered doubly attractive by a centre of deep pea green. A valuable plant for rockery or border. From Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate. Award of merit. Xll THE GAKDEM. [March 18, l'J05. P^Umonaria arvernerisis alba.— The type of this is a well-known early blae-floweriiii; plant, this form differing in its clustered heads of white flowers. Qaite a choice plant for the rock garden, growing not more than 6 inches high. From Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate. Award of merit. Erica huhrida Veitchii.—X valuable and interesting hardy Heath, the bushes, 2 feet high, being loaded with white bell-shaped flowers. From ilessrs. R. Veitch and Sons, Exeter. Award of merit. Helleborus orientalis Step/ten Olbrech.—A large and handsome-flowered variety, purplish plum in colour, and in effect a really fine variety of H. colchicus. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Dorking (gardener, Mr. Bain). Award of merit. Cantiia dependeih^.—A floe truss of the long, richly- coloured flowers was shown by H. J. Elwea, Esq., Coles- bourne, Gloucester. Award of merit. Carnation General Kuroki.— The finest Tree Carnation with scarlet-crimson flowers we have seen. A most hand- some and shapely flower, without the smallest inclination to bursting, with long stems. From Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate. Award of merit. UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT AND PROVIDEXT SOCIETY. The annual meeting was held on Monday evening last at the Caledondian Hotel, Strand. Mr. Walter P. Wright presided over an attendance of about twenty-five. The secretary then read the minutes of the last general meeting and the annual report, from which we make the following extracts : The committee has the very great pleasure of presenting to the annual meeting a report that is eminently satisfac- tory. In many respects the year IDOi has been a record one, no less than ninety-five candidates having been admitted to membership, this number showing an increase of twelve over the previous highest number elected in any one year. Losses have, however, to be deducted, and these include five deceased and twenty-three lapsed members, the total membership at the end of the year being 1,076, made up of GUO paying on the higher scale, and 467 paying on the lower scale. Sick members to the number of eighty- six have benefited under tlie sick fund, the total paid out during the year being £;i27 03. , or an average of i:3 IGs. per sick member. This sum has been met by a deduction of 73. 5d. from the contributions of higher-scale members, and of 43. lid. from the lower-scale members. There are now six members receiving regular grants from the bene- volent fund, and these amount in the aggregate to £0J Oj. In addition several members in distress have been asiisted to the total amount of £15 4g. 7d., and in these cases the help afforded has been most gratefully acknowledged. Contributions to the benevolent fund amounted to £130 4s. 5d. From the convalescent fund £7 has been paid out to members recovering from illness, and the committee has reason to know that in some instances the help from this voluntary fund has practically proved to be the physical salvation of the membeis Members should ever bear in mind the generosity of Mr. N. N. Sherwood in founding this fund, and so far as able make a point of themselves contributing something each year to it. The committee proposes henceforth to hold the committee and other meetings at the new R:)yal Horticultural Hall, where accommodation has been promised on particulaily favour- able terms. The committee is strongly of opinion that direct association with the premier horticultural society cannot fail to result in a wider interest being taken in the work of the United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society. The annual dinner held at the Holborn Restaurant on Wednesday, October 12, was again successful, and Mr. W. X. Bilney made a most genial and capable chairman. To the honorary members the committee tenders its heartiest thanks fur their continued interest, and not less sincere and hearty are the thanks offered to the horticul- tural Press for services freely and frequently rendered to the society. On the recommendation of the rules sub- committee the committee has decided not to call a special general meeting to consider the proposed new rules until 1906. During 19:.)d the cummictee will have to meet the somewhat heavy expenses entailed by a complete audit of the society's books. In addition to this the quinquennial valuation under the Friendly Societies' Act has to be made. The sub-committee has met on numerous occasions, and its work, now almost fluiahed, will be submitted to a com- petent legal authority (fortunately at no cost to the society) ere the proposed alterations are placed before each member. In conclusion the committee would once again urge upon members the desirability of missionary woik among gar- deners, especially among young gardeners, on behalf of the society. The substantial increase of members in 1904, and the fine prospect already opened for 1905 should be an incentive to those who already appreciate the benefit of unity to further increase the strength of the society. The chairman, in proposing the adoption of the report, said the society should have an increased membership. If gardeners realised the value of the s )ciety the member- ship would be greater. Various reas ins were assigned for the lack of new inemberj. Some suggested it should be can- vassed and more largely advertised. These, however, would pruve costly. He thought the society was good enough to advertise itself. He thought the rules were admirable ; it was an excellent policy to write off a certain su'n for depreciation of securities, as had been done. Mr. Wright referred to the Urge influx of members this year alieady. He suggested that the horticultural journals should be approached to do all they c luld for this society. The niLiirmau also pointed out the superiority of the United Horticultural Benefit Society over an ordinary friendly society. The management fund expenses he thought to be exceedingly low ; the amount last year was £1S2 lOi. Sd. The interest on the convalescent fund is considerably more than the amount disbursed by this fund. Mr. Wright thought that a society conducted on such good principles of management as this was bound to prosper. He suggested that one reason the society did not grow rapidly was because the British gardener is so absorbed in his work that it (the society) escapes his notice. Missionary work on behalf of the society ought to be cariied on among gar- deners without ceasing. Mr. C. H. Curtis, in seconding the adoption of the report, referred to the postponement of the revision of the rules and other matters referred to in the report, mention- ing in detail some of the more important alterations to be carried into effect. Mr. Bilney had kindly undertaken to look through the new and altered rules, and to give the society his opinion upon them. Mr. Brown, Chertsey, thought progress was very slow. He suggested that a pamphlet should be circulated, showing the benefits of the fund, and also that the age for admittance should be lowered. He thought that a date should be fixed for a meeting to consider the revision of rules. It was stated by several members that leaflets about the society had been distributed. The report was then carried without dissent. Mr. J. H. Dick proposed that 3,000 copies of the report be circulated. This was seconded and carried. The election of new members of committee, and the usual votes of thanks brought the meeting to a close. In replying to the thanks accorded to him for presiding, and also for writing an article which had been the means of bringing more than thirty new members, Mr. Wright said he would be glad to give five guineas towards the expenses of publishing his notes in pamphlet form if the committee thought this desirable. REDHILL AND DISTRICT GARDENERS' SOCIETY. Under the auspices of the Redhill, Reigate, and District Gardeners' Association a special lecture was given in the King's Hall, Colman Institute, Redhill, recently, dealing with evolution in plant life, illustrated by the Orchid. The lecturer was Mr. H. J. Chapman, formerly Orchid grower to Mr. R. I. Measures of Streatham, and now head gardener to Mr. Norman C. Ci)ok3on, Oakwood, Wylam-on- Tyne, Northumberland. Mr. Jeremiah Colman, D.L , J.P., occupied the chair. Mr. Chapman, at the outset of his lecture, said he had not prepared a cut-and-dried paper, but he intended giving a brief explanation of the slides, and then they might realise that the Orchids were not what they were represented to be. Many considered them in the light of a plant only to be indulged in by those possessing a plentiful endowment of this world's goods. That was the greatest mistake imaginable. Many of the best species which fetch the greatest price are imported into this country, realising about Is. GJ. each. There were about 150 slides altogether, and the peculiar characteristics (,f the Orchid were first displayed, photographs being shown of the interior and exteriorof the flower. Specimens of seedlings were shown, and Mr. Chapman explained how in some instances the seedlings germinated within a few days, and in others it took months and even years. The hearty thanks of the meeting were voted to Mr Chapman. CARDIFF GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The usual fortnightly meeting was held at the Sandringham Hotel on Tuesday, the 7th inst., Mr. Tom Clarke presiding. Mr. R. Mayne, Park Place, C udiff, delivered a practical and instructive lecture on "Pot SLrawberries." The lecturer explained in detail the modes of propagation, the best vaiieties to select for the purpose, and the proper treatment to keep up successions, ilr. Collier opened the discussion, which was enthusiastically taken up by the majority of the members. The best thanks of the members were accorded Mr. Mayne for his popular lecture. Con- cluding the chairman announced that the ninteenth annual general meeting would take place on Tuesday next, the 2l3t inst.— J. Julian. EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB. The March meeting was held at the Shirehall Hotel, Norwich, on the 8th inst. The president (Mr. J. Powley) was in the chair, and among those present we noticed .Messrs. George Davison (West wick), W. Chettleburgh ( Wo r stead), C. W. Marr (Hobbies, Limited, Dereham), H. Bdtchelor (Sprouston), C. H, Pox (Old Oatton), G. Moore and E. C Ramus (Hethersett), and W. L, Wallis, the secretary. Mr. C. Matthews, gardener to L. E Willett, Esq., Thorpe, was the only essayist in the competition upon "The Treatment of Flowering Trees and Shrubs," after the reading of which an animated discussion followed. Some of the principal speakers were Messrs. J. Clayton (Daniels Brothers, Limited), T. B. Field (Ashwellthorpe), H. B. Dobbie (Thorpe), and the president. The exhibition tables were well filled with pot plants, fruits, and vece- tables, and some keen competitions were witnessed. Mr. E. J. Foulget was first for dessert Apple", stewing Pears, and a single plant of Diolytra. Mr. F. Williams, gardener to Louis Tillett, Esq., M,P., was flrst for a bunch of cut flowers, and also had some good buHts in pots. The latter, however, were beaten by Mr W. Shoesmilh, gardener to F. W. Hornier, Esii., Cringleford. ilr. C. H Hines and Mr. C. H, Fox both took many prizes in the vegetable section. A cultural commendation was unanimously granted to M'. A. F. Cooke, gardener to the Rev. Canon Ripley, Ipswich Road, for Dendrobium nobile, profusely covered with bloom, Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, sent up some nice lilooras of Carnation Mrs. T. W. Lawson and some new Koses they are sending out this year. It was notified that at the April meeting Mr. W. P. Wright, secretary of the National Potato Society, would come and speak about Potatoes. DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. The monthly meeting of the above association was held la the Technical Institute, Dundee, on the evening of the 7th inst., when there was a large attendance, which was presided over by Mr. William Grant. The subject of the evening's address, which was by Mr. Lawrence Melville, was " The Legal Aspect of Gardening." Mr. Melville, who IS thoroughly well qualified to lecture upon the subject, dealt with it in a clear and concise way, market gardens in particular receiving prominence on account of their commerciiil importance. Mr. Melville considered that market girdeners had greater privileges than their land- lords. The after-discussion was very spirited, but the general opinion expressed by the greater number of those who spoke was chat the landlords had the balance of advantage over the tenants, particularly in the case of private gardens. Mr. Melville was heartily thanked for his valuable address. LATE NOTES. Valuable Orchids in dispute.— In The Gakden of the 11th uk. we gave parimulars of a case before the Belgian Tribunal of Cjrameroe that is of interest to English Orchid growers. An amateur of repute in England bought five email plants for about £1,'200 of an alleged rare variety of Odontoglossum orispum from a firm in Brussels. The plants were not in flower at the time, but were bought on the strength of water-colour drawings said to be exact reproductions of the five plants in flower. However, these plants turned out to be inferior varieties, and for this reason the lawsuit was instituted. Judgment has now been given. This is to the ett'ect that the sale of Orchids purchased when not in flower, according to coloured drawings, is void if the flowers produced are not similar to those repre- sented by the drawings, as these formed the basis of the contract. It was also ruled that if there existed several plants of an Orchid sold as unique the sale would be void. It was decided that plaiutilfhad proved several other plants to exist of the particular variety under consideration (Cilos), sold to him as unique, and that the flowers produced were not similar to those shown in the coloured drawings. At the same lime, however, three experts were appointed to decide whether, as alleged by the defendants, these Orchids under other cultivation would have pro- duced finer flowers than those grown by the plaintiff, and if such flowers would be similar to those shown in the coloured drawings. The report of the experts will not be available for some months. The late Mr. T. M. Crook. — We regret to learn of the death of Mr. T. M. Crook, Stanley Grange, Hoghton, near Preston, who was well known in horticultural circles, but especially among Orchid connoisseurs. His collection of Orchids was one of the largest and best private collections in the country. Mr. Crook took no part in public affairs. His generosity was un- bounded ; he was a liberal supporter of horticul- tural, agricultural, and other societies. His death is mourned by a very wide circle of friends. He leaves a widow and two dauehters, his only sou having died on December 8, 1902. When are Apples out of season? I was surprised to see that Mr. Tracey considers that fine culinary Apple Lord Derby out of season at the present time. Having occasion to dispose of some surplus Apples early in the present month I forwarded them to a well-known salesman in Govent Garden. Of the six varieties forwarded Lord Derby made the top price — is. per bushel. 1 find no difficulty in keeping this variety until the end of March or even later in an ordinary fruit room. — Charles Page, Dropmore Gai-rlens, Royal Botanic Society of London. The society has arranged to hold its second annual creit horticultural exhibition on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, .June 7, S, and 9, instead of .June 14, 15, and 10, as originally pr qi 'sed. This is in addition to the usual monthly shu«a. ^^t. ^w^- GARDEN ■^^ -p«^— i,,^^^^^ No. 1740.— Vol. LXVII. Makcii 2.5, 1905. ENGLISH NAMES FOR PLANTS, THE question of English names for plants is one of perennial interest. But, practically it seems that the natural law of language, namely, that it will grow of itself but can- not be made, also embraces and governs the general adoption of plant names. Nothing, for instance, could be better, as a word or as a name, than Euskin's " Rock- foil," a good-looking, pleasant-sounding, and admirably descriptive word. It has been with us for more than a quarter of a century, but is not in general use. Perhaps it was that we had learnt to say " Saxifrage," and that " Saxifrage," by use, had already become English, so that the better word, coming a little too late is left neglected. Many of the oldest flower-names are the Latin names anglicised— Rose, Lily, Peony, Lupin, Violet, Tulip, and Hyacinth. Now we never anglicise the botanical name. If the name is pretty and convenient we adopt it whole without alteration, as in the case of Ixia, Azalea, Andromeda, Iris, and so on. We have even adopted some that are without these good qualities, of which an example is Rhododendron. No name can be much more cumbersome, and yet we constantly find ourselves plodding patiently through all its four syllables. As one correspondent says. Crocus is now good English, and therefore its plural becomes Crocuses. But if botanists were discussing the species of the genus Crocus they would speak of them collectively as Croci, because they are, quite correctly, using the Latin plural termination to the Latin name. It is noticeable, however, that our English plural has an ugly look and an unlovely sound when it comes at the end of an adopted name ending in " us," so that in pretty, or even ordinary writing about flowers we are moved to some sort of evasion and incline to say Crocus flowers or Crocus blooms rather than Crocuses. In the same way we feel a little shy about Ranunculuses, Gladioluses, Convolvuluses, Asparaguses, and Mimuluses. Some of the strangest freaks in the adoption or growth of plant-names have been those where we have accepted and commonly use the botanical generic name of one plant as the popular name of another of quite another natural order ; as " Nasturtium," now the English name of Tropoeolum, but properly the botanical name of Watercress ; and "Syringa," used as the popular name of Philadelphus, but really the botanical name of the Lilac. By all means, when there is a plurality of popular names, let us choose and, if possible, use only the best, though we think that Pansy and Heartsease will both live. And in the case of new plants that have long, awkward, or difficult names, let anyone pro- pose suitable English names ; though whether or not they will be accepted and will grow into familiar English is a matter that the strange ways of the growth of language must be left to decide. A WHITE GARDEN. Long, long ago, in a corner of beautiful England, a house was built, a garden planned and laid out, and the Yew hedges planted which now surround it and shelter it from the winter winds that sweep over it from the rolling downs above. The Dutch influ- enoe was then paramount, and the garden of which I speak is full of quaint corners. Yews clipped in fantastic shapes, mimic peacocks spreading their bushy tails from trim pedestals, and heraldic lions rampant guarding the entrance to the pleasaunce. Here is the old sundial, worn and time honoured, with the motto " I only mark the happy hours." Nothing is much changed, for this house and garden are still in the hands of the_ descendants of those who created them. Certain alterations were made, it is true, when the fatal craze for carpet bedding took possession of the gardening world of fifty years ago, but luckily the Dutch garden was left undisturbed, because around it hung the beloved memory of a woman who has long lain asleep in the little churchyard close at hand. In the quaint old garden, with its clipped Box borders. Rose trellises, and white marble fountain eternally sending up its sparkling waters to the sunlight, was this dead woman's joy and solace for many years. We read in a journal, whose pages are blistered with tears, that in her comparatively short life were many hours of sorrow, borne with the faith, hope, and charity which seemed so much more inseparable from the heait of the womanhood of that day than it is now. At the age of twenty-five — and though the people were older then when the world was younger, she must have been in the zenith of her beauty, rendered on canvas by the great painter of that day— this lady lost the sight of her beautiful eyes, those wonderful dark blue Irish eyes that gaze so lovingly at you from the shade of the white-plumed hat. It is not stated how this happened, but we are told that from that hour she who had so passionately loved her flowers became even more devoted to her garden than before, and that she would spend hours on the seat in her Dutch garden listening to the music of the birds and the murmuring of the falling water from the fountain. Then an idea seemed to take possession of her, and she would have none but white flowers in this portion of her garden. No longer seeing the bright and various colours of her favourites, she appeared to think it would comfort her to know that all her blossoms were alike colourless, and I have thought, too, that there may have been a feeling of dedication in her mind in con- nexion with the deep sorrow of her enforced condition of dependence— for she, like her flowers, also wore white always. The tall Madonna Lilies are there set in ever- increasing beauty against the background of green Yews, and surround the old marble seat where she spent so many hours. The Roses on the trellises that sub-divide and break the enclosure into alleys are all white, and it has been the sacred care of the present owners to renew them ; so that many beauti- ful new varieties blossom there, mingling their branches with the Clematis montana, fine white varieties of the Jackmani. In the spring sheets of Snowdrops whiten the turf and star the prim Box-edged squares of the flower-beds. White Hepaticas, undisturbed for half a century, and double Primrotes follow, while white Lilacs, Mock Orange flower, and Guelder Rose make fragrant shelter for the nesting nightingale, whose song blends with the whispering water of the fountain. A long border, which breaks the formal monotony of the beds, is filled with a wondeiful collection of white flowers; indeed, until I saw them I had forgotten how many of these beautiful plants there are, and this garden is ever being replenished with the newest flowers that are hardy enough to withstand the rigours of a somewhat high altitude. Of the fair woman who unrepiningly led her simple life in this garden it may be told that when the husband of her youth was called away from her, and gave his life for England on the battlefield of Vittoria, she, broken-hearted, but still seeing with the eyes of her soul the needs of others, spent the few remaining years of visual darkness in doing good, and one summer's eve in her white garden she went out from among her Lilies to eternal light. Those who survived her, and their children's children, and as long 17-' THE GAR D FN. (March 191., as one of the name remains, will cliensli bei white garden as a fitting and beautiful monument to her memory. The nightingales will sing as they sang to her nearly 100 years ago, the fountain will S3nd up its thousand jewels to the sun, and the Roses and Lilies offer their incense to her unforgotten name. I know of other white gardens, and I have felt that a small space might be sometimes devoted to flowers so beautiful. It is the only really artistic combination of one colour, and if properly handled very charming results can be obtained, a perfect succession of white flowers being more possible than those of brighter hues ; but I recognise at the same time these special arrangements can only be carried oub by those who have a garden adapted to such vagaries, by which 1 mean a garden, as are many old-fashioned ones, divided into separate sections or compart- ments, which can be used for some special clisplay of flowers or shrubs, rockery, or water garden. The list of white flowers for each month of the floral year is almost inex- haustible, and many of them are very sweet. With these white flowers, too, can be em- ployed beautiful foliage plants as a relief, while there are also a great variety of flowering shrubs, and any quantity of white Roses at our disposition. A. DE LiCY Lacy. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. AWARDS IN THE FEBRUARY COMPETITION. The Editor, who has had the assistance of experts, awards the prizes as follows : First (85 marks), Mr. Edward J. Djre, 11, Radatock Huad, Reading; second (S3 marks), Mr. Parker Kobinson, Pool Firm, Adderley, Market Dray- i.in, Salop ; third (SO marks), Mr. L. Livender, Manor House Gardens, Waltham St. Law- rence, Twyford, Berks ; fourth (79 marks), Mr. Edward Pullin, under gardener, Gisburne, Princes' Park, Liverpool. Cheques for the several amounts have been sent to the above- mentioned prize-winners. The following, whose papers are next in order of merit, are considered worthy of honourable mention. The number of marks each competitor obtained is given in paren- theses : A. J. Hartless, 5, Mortlake Terrace, Kew, Surrey (7S) ; W. Ford, The Gardens, Hut- ton John, Penrith, Cumberland (76) ; A. Wilaon, The Gardens, Benslow, Hitchin, Herts (75) ; J, E. Phillips, Trevor Hall, Llangollen (75) ; M. Millard, Wuitney House Gardens, Wmehfield (75) ; John Botley, gardener to the Rev. H. M. Wells, Scarlets Park, Twyford, Enrks (75) ; A M. Foster, Cheaham Bois, Bucks (75) ; Robert Bellerby, The Gardens, Askhara Bryan Hall, York (75) ; H. Gardner, Underley Gardens, Kirkby-L msdale, Westmoreland (74) ; F, Prior, The Gardens, SwanmorePark, Bishop's Waltham, Hants (73) ; A. E. Speer, Sandown Lodge Gardens, Edier, Surrey (7'2) ; Thomas Pricketl, gardener to the Misses Rvder, Gledh )w Hill, Lejds (71). The Annual Flower Competition proved to be n.ore popular than the previous one, as a larger number of replies to the questions were received. The answers, even in the same paper, were of widely different merit, and this accounts for the comparatively low number of marks gained, even by the prizewinners, out of a possible lOS. We publish the first prize paper as promised, although It must not be taken as being good in all par- ticulars. In some of the other panera there were belter answers to (J lestions VI. and VII., although Mr. Bore gained the highest number of marks altogether. We might say that Linum grandiflorum rubrum, one of the most effective annuals for massing, should have been included in lheans\\er to (.^'aeaiiou i V'., Ltiau feweei I'cas a.ie missing from the answer to (.,inestion VI., and that it is obvious there are other ways of using climbing annuals than mentioned in Answer No. VII. For the guidance of future competitors we might say it was evident that all the answers were not compiled from actual experience, as Niootiana Sanders, and Nigella Miss Jekyll were among the new flowers recommended. These, it is obvious, could not have been grown by those who included them. Many of the answers w-ere vague ; for instance, Chrysanthemums, Asters, and Sun- flowers might refer to very different flowers. The actual species or variety should be given. Instead of giving the best uses of climbing annuals, as the question directed, the maj )rity of competitors gave an elaborate list of the best sorts, instead of answering the question asked. The answ-ers to this question (No. VII.) were, generally speaking, very poor. Almost all com- petitors gave the natural order Composite in answer to Question ]X. ; two gave Papaveraceje and several Leguminosa;. A number of writers evidently did not quite know the difference between natural order, genus, species, and variety. The favourite blue-flowered annual was Phacelia carapanularia ; some chose the Cornflower, others the Larkspur. Many papers were disqualified through the writers failing to conform to the rules ; for instance, giving seven or eight flowers when only six were asked for. First Prize Answers. I.— Perpetual Peifecliun Ten week Stocks white, yellow, carmine, and blue, Mont Blanc, Princess Alice, All the Year Rmnd, Improved Queen white, scarlet, purple, pink, and yellow. II.— Asters >'ictoria, sinensis, Comet, Jewel, Ostrich Plume, and Giant French. III.- Svveet Peas Djrothy Eckford, white ; King Edward YII., crimson; Gladys l^nwin, pink; Lady G. Hamilton, lavender; Othello, dark maroon ; and Miss Willmott, salmon-rose. IV.~ Arctotis firandis, Bartonia aurea, annual Chrysan- themums, Cusmea bipinnata, blue Cornflower, Clarkia Salmon Queen, Coreopsis, Lavatei-a rosea splendens, Lupiuus Hartwegii and hyhridus alru- cuccineus, B lUble African Marigold (lemon and orange), Shirley Poppy, Salpiglossis E nperor, Silvia Blue Beard, Scabious (iarge-tlowered German), and Zinnia, v.— Phacelia campanularia. VI.— Livatera rosea splendens, Coreopsis, Cosmea bipin- nata, Gypsophila elegans, Cacalia coccinea, and Linaiia. VII, — I'seful for covering old walls, nooks, arbours, pergolas, verandahs, and wire trellis ; aho for hiding unsightly spots in the garden and training over dead trees. VIII. — Chrysanthemum coronarium. Coreopsis, Dian thus, Stock-tlowered Larkspur, Swan Kiver Daisy, and Clarkia. IX.— Natural Order Composita' : Ageratnm Dwarf Blue, Arctotis graiidis. Aster Victoria, A. Cfmet, and A. sinensis, Brachycome orSwan River Daisy, Cacalia coccinea. Calendula c>!ticinalis, C. Meteor, and C. Orange King, blue Cornflower, Chrysanthemum Sutton's Morning Star, C. corunarium, C. Diin- netlii, and C. burridgeanum. Coreopsis Drum- raondii, C. tinctoria, and C. atrosanguineum ; Cosmea bipinnata, Gaillaidia loronziarnr and G. Drummondii, Helianlhus Stella, H. Orion, and H. Miniature, large-floweied Helichrysum, double Jacob.f a, Layia elegans. Marigold Striped Double Fi'ench, M. Double African (lemon and orange), M. Legion of Honour, and M. Silver King, Sanvi- talia procumhens, Sweet Sultan (white, purple, and yellow), Tagetes signata pumila, double Zm- nia, and Hawkweed (llieraciuin) (led, white, and yellow). FORTHCOMING EVENTS. March •22.— Royal Botanic Society's Show, Botanic Gardens, R'gent'.s Park. March 28, — R lyal Horticultural Society's Meeting; Horticultural Club Dinner at 6 p.m., followed by a lecture on "Forests, Wild and Cultivated," by Dr. Henry. March 29. — Liverpool Horticultural Associa- tion's Show (two dayo). March 30 — Royal Horticultural Society's S cjnd Colonial Fruit and Vegetable Show (two dayp) March 31.— Lee and Blackheath Horticultural Sjoiety'a Meeting. April 3— Mansfield Horticultural Show. NOTES OF THE WEEK. A coloured plate of Eustoma russelli- anum, from a drawing by H. G. Moon, wifl be given with The (Iakden next week. Royal Horticultural Society.— At the general meeting of the Fellows of the society on Tuesday, the 14:h insl., Mr. J. W. Olell occupied the chair. Eighty new Fellows were elected, including Lady Havelock-AUen, the Hon. Vicary (_;ibbs, the Rev. H. W. Cholmeley, the Rev. Eric F. Green, Mrs. H. Acland Hood, Cap- tain Arthur Smith, Mr. J. M. Maxwell-Lyte, Mr. Theophilus J. Salwey, and Mr. Edward Sherwood. A lecture was delivered by the Rev. Professor Henslow on "Bud Variation," which was richly illustrated by lantern slides and actual specimens. The next exhibition and meeting of this society will be held on Tuesday, the 2S.h inst. , when a lecture will be delivered by Mr. Frank Pink on "Bananas." The society will hold a show of Colonial fruit and vegetables, both fresh and preserved, on the 30i,h and 3l3t inst., and their other spring fixtures will include the great flower show in the Inner Temple Gardens on May 30, 31, and June 1. On April 25 the National Auricula and Primula Society will hold their annual show in connexion with the Rjyal Horticultural Society's meeting, and the National Tulip Society will likewise hold their southern division show on May 23. The lectures on April 25 and May 9 will deal with various aspects of Japanese horticulture, and on May 23 Mr. E. N. Holmes will lecture on "Medicinal Plants, Old and New.'' The society's examinations in horticulture and, for teachers only, in cottage and allotment gardening will take place on April 12 and April 5 respectively. Royal Horticultural Society's Examinations, 1905.— Intending candi- dates for the school teachers' examination in cottage and allotment gardening, April 5, and the general examination in horticulture, April 12, are requested to send in their entries as soon as possible. The Royal Horticultural Society is willing to hold an examination in as many dif- ferent centres In CJreat Britain and Ireland as circumstances may demand. A capitulation fee of oi. will be charged for every student in order partially to defray the expenses of the examina- tion. A silver-gilt Flora medal will be awarded to the candidate gaining the highest number of marks, and each successful candidate will receive a certificate. A copy of the S3'llabus covering both examinations, with entry forms attached, will be sent to anj' person on receipt of a stamped and directed envelope. Questions set at the Royal Horticultural Soeiet3'3 examinations, 1893—1904, may also be obtained at the society's othces, Vincent Square, London, S.W., price Is. GJ, Beautiful Crocuses. — Crocus Sieberi var. versicolor is, perhaps, the rarest and most beautiful of the wild Crocuses introduced during the last fifteen years. When closed one sees the exterior segments, which are pure white, feathered and barred with carmine - purple. When open the flowers disclose a golden yellow centre, the upper half being pure white and the anthers golden yellow. C. candidus is a very vigorous species, with large globular flowers, the interior segments being white ; the exterior is tinged and streaked lilac with yellow anthers and stigmata. It is very free. C. Alexandri flowers rather early. I have a very pretty late flowering form, in every respect the same as the type, except that the exterior segments externally are tinged with a distinct deep violet-purple, leaving a pure white margin. — G. Reuthe. Non-bursting Carnations.— " W. I." has received plenty of suggestions in answer to his enquiry for twelve good non- bursters, but 1 should like to be permitted to add one more. Mrs. Nicholson, a very beautiful shade of pink, something like Duchess of Fife, but much better, is in every respect a grand border Carnation. — Havw ards Hkath. March 25, 1905. THE GARDEN. 173 Corylopsis spicata. — This yellow flowered shrub is getting, as it deserves to be, more common in gardens. The flowers appear in short racemes on the old wood in advance of the leaves. Doubtless the plant which came from Messrs. Veitch and Sons' nursery to the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting on the 28 th ult. had been slightly forced. — F. M. "Round a Yorkshire Alpine Garden." — This is the title of an article that appeared in the Yorkshire Daily Observer last year, and now is reprinted in booklet form. It is written by Mr. W. Cudworth of Bradford, and describes an alpine garden in Calverley village, near Bradford, designed and planted by Mr. Samuel Margerison. The writer says that almost all known species of Sedum, Sempervivum, and Saxifrage are to be seen in this garden. Helianthus cueumerifolius.— There are now many improved varieties of this, which some declare to be hybrids, but they are the results of cross fertilisation and selection. The flowers vary in colour and form, though the range of the former is rather restricted. They are free of bloom, and the flowers being generally on long stems they are very useful for cutting for decorative purposes. Seeds sown in the open in March produce plants which flower in the summer. There can be observed a tendency to sow somewhat thickly. The best results are obtained when the plants have ample room in which to develop. — R. D. The Spanish Hyacinth. — I saw Hyacinthus amelhystinus robustus flowering freely at the end of February in Mr. Bilney's garden at Weybridge. It is a delightful little thing, and the fact that it blooms with the Snow- drop renders it doubly precious. I have never grown this bulbous flower, and certainly was not aware that it came into bloom under wintry skies. I see that Mr. Smith of Newry classes it among May-fljwering things, but he does not list the variety above mentioned. Can it be that this form is so much earlier than the type? There is certainly a great difierence between a February and May flowering bulb. Mr. Bilney's soil is light and warm, and this little Hyacinth is growing above the level on rising ground, which may in some measure account for early blooming. As a Miy bulb this dainty little thing would lose a lot of its worth. Flowering in February, it is one of the most valuable spring flowers we have. — .J. Coenhill. Cosmos bipinnatUS.— This beautiful half-hardy annual should be grown in abundance, especially where out flowers are wanted in late summer. lis light foliage and single Dahlia-like flowers make it very attractive and most useful for all purposes. It is especially so because it is at its best when most other flowers are nearly over. Anyone intending to give this plant a trial must sow the seed at once in heat, and get the plants well forward by planting time, or they may not see its full beauty. It should have a sunny position, when it is sure to give entire satisfaction until cut down by frost. — J. T. HiGGiNS. Bd'j Gardens, Corwen, North Wales. Daffodil poisoning". — To a recent meeting of the scientific committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, Mr. J. Lowe wrote stating that the gatherers of Daffodils often suffered from sore hands, and requesting some information a'< to a remedy. Mr. J. Walker wrote stating that usuilly only those who had chapped hands, or who failed to wash their hands alter picking the flowers, suffiired from the trouble. The committee were of opinion that the crystals of calcium oxalate (raphides), which are frequently in abundance in this and similar plants, were the cause of the trouble, and it was suggested that the workers should thoroughly grease their hands with tallow before picking the flowers, or fchould wear gloves. A fine variety of Snowdrop (Gralanthus plicatus Fraseri).— I'lie regretted death of Mr. Patrick Neill Fraser reminds one of the fine variety of Galauthus plicatus, which was discovered in his garden at Rockville, Edinburgh, and bears his name. This IS a very handsome form of the Crimean Snow- drop, observed first, I believe, by Mr. W. B. B lyd of Faldonside, Melrose, among other plants of G. plicatus, and conspicuous by its size and beauty. I am fortunate enough to have had this Snowdrop for a number of years now, and I have found it extremely satisfactory in every way. With me Galanthus plicatus has shown the defect it often presents in many gardens of dying ol3 suddenly without apparent cause, but Mr. Neill Fraser's variety has, on the contrary, increased very freely, while self-sown seedlings which have come into flower present all the merits of their parent. G. p. Fraseri has large, handsome flowers, produced on tall, stout stems, and fine reduplicated leaves. — S. Arnott, Carsethorn, by Dumfries, Scotland. Galanthus Cassaba Boydii.— This is a distinct Snowdrop of the form of Galanthus Elwesii, known as Cassaba, in itself a good form and well worth growing by all who care for the Snowdrop. It was selected by Mr. \^'. B. Bjyd of Fdldonside, who knows so much about the Snowdrops, in his own garden, and is noticeable not only from the inner segments being almost entirely green, but also from the green spot on the exterior of the outer divisions. The former feature is very evident, but the latter varies somewhat, and is not absolutely constant, although nearly so. Here I have one bloom without this mark, although my plants were from Mr. Boyd himself, and this flower has the green tube shown by the others, which have come with the green spot on the exterior. Some will think little of these distinctions, but they are interesting, not only as teaching something of the past of the Snowdrop, but also as showing in what direction the seedling raiser might develop the flower. That such changes do not appeal to everyone we well know, but they add greatly to our sum of knowledge of the evolution of our favourite flowers. — S. Arnott. Bupatorium petiolare.— This delight- ful Eupatorium is alluded to on page 143, and the writer there is undecided whether it is a new species or an old one reintroduced. According to the catalogue of Messrs. Cannell of Swanley, who have exhibited this species of late, the last sur- mise is the correct one, for they say of it : " Daring the botanic expedition sent out by the King of Spain, Charles IV., 1795 to 1804, Mocsino discovered in Mexico a very interesting and beautiful plant, a reproduction of which is repre- sented in the engraving. The authorities at Kew, after having seen a plant, and made comparisons with specimens in their herbarium, identified the plant as Eupatorium petiolare, a name which has now been definitely adopted." Ou page 143 the pleasing fragrance of the blossoms is not mentioned. — T. A hybrid Heath (Erica medlter- ranea hybrida). — A somewhat belated award of merit was recently given this charm- ing Heath by the Royal Horticultural Society, which upsets a widespread idea that these awards are given only to new plants. Such an opinion, however, is very general, and your correspondent " E. J," page 149, seems to have fallen into the same error, for he speaks of this particular Heath as a new- comer, whereas, as a matter of fact, it has been largely grown for years. It is now eight years since I made its acquaintance, and how long previous to that it was sent out I cannot say, as its advent was not heralded by a flourish of trumpets. — T. Shrewsbury Floral Fete. — The thirty-first exhibition of the Shropshire Horti- cultural Society will be held in The Qaarry, Shrewsbury, on Wednesday and Thursday, August 23 and 24. The schedule of prizes, just published, gives particulars of cash prizes amount- ing to £1,100, as well as the silver challenge vase for Grapes (value 50 guineas), silver cups, gold and silver medals, and other valuable prizes. The society will allot space for non-competitive exhibits, but, as the space will necessarily be limited, application must be made to the hon. secretaries. The Square, Shrewsbury, not later than August 14. Included in the schedule are the usual valuable prizes for specimen plants, cut flowers, fruits, many special prizes being offered for Sweet Peas and vegetables. Among the fruit the champion Grape class excites most interest. A first prize of £16 and a silver cup (value .50 guineas) are offered as the first prizt) for the best twelve bunches of Grapes in four or more varieties. This cup was first offered in 1902 ; it was then won by Mr. W. Shingler, gar- dener to Lord Hastings. In 1903 Mr. J. H. Goodacre, gardener to Lord Elvaston, was the winner, and in 1904 Mr. Shingler again was successful. To become the property of any competitor the cup must be won three limes. The Shrewsbury spring show will be held on April 12. Fruit industry of Great Britain. The Departmental Committee appointed by Lord Onslow to enquire into and report upon the fruit industry of Great Britain, held sittings on the 7th to the 10th inst. The following members were present : Mr. A. S. T. Griffith-Boscawen, M.P. (chairman), Colonel Long, M.P., Mr. C. W. Radcliffe-Cooke, Mr. Hodge, Mr. Vinson, Dr. Somerville, Mr. P. Spencer Pickering, M.A. , F.R.S., the Rev. W. Wilks, M.A., and Mr. Ernest Garnsey (secretary). The committee had under their consideration the draft report prepared by the chairman. A new strain of Cinerarias.- A new break in Cinerarias is being brought out by Messrs. Sutton and Sons of Reading, which, in some of its features, bids fair to commend itself to cultivators. The plants are not unduly dwarf, the flowers are compact, and individually of large size and of great substance, likely therefore to be of much endurance on the plant, and capable of withstanding the rough treatment incidental to furnishing apartments, halls, staircases, and other like places, where the larger and thinner flowers of the older varieties are apt soon to show injury. The colours noted were light and dark blue, carmine, pink, and crimson. As in new strains in general, the foliage is robust and ample, quite hiding the pots. — F. M. The scarcity of Onions.— It is many years since good Ouions have realised such exorbitant prices as at the present time, owing, to a great extent, to failures in foreign countries. I have always advocated cultivating these much more extensively than we do in this country, convinced as I am that we most certainly ought to be able to compete favourably in the produc- tion of Onions with any part of the world. Much of our land is well suited for Onion culture, which would return good profits, but is at the present time in a most pitiable condition. It is often said that unless we could draw cur supplies from foreign countries uninterruptedly we should suffer greatly in consequence, and here is a case in point where, owing to our own negligence and trusting to imports, we are the sufferers. To grow Onions well the land must be deeply and thoroughly worked, adding plenty of good farm- yard manure, and, when once this has been done, Ouions can, fortunately, be grown on the same site for many years. Good keeping varieties only should be grown. A long season of growth is necessarj', the crop should be early and carefully harvested ; a most important item. The Ojion fly is the most troublesome enemy, but this may be practically overcome by raising the seedlings under glass early in the spring, and planting them out early in April. Many are under the impression that this would entail too much labour, but I am absolutely certain this is not so. By sowing the seed thinly in boxes the young plants may be put out straight away, and, if put in firmly, will occasion little further trouble till the time of lifting. I am informed that this is practised largely in the Ameriqan States, with the best possible results. — E. Beckett, Eislree. 174 THE GAKDEN. [March 25, 1905. RIVIERA NOTES. THERE are lessons to be learnt even from disaster, and the devastating frosts of last January's first week have brought forward some old and excellent plants that were being pushed out of the way and forgotten. What is more beautiful than the Heaven!)/ Bamboo {Nandina domestica), with its finely cut foliage and slender stems, crowned with pyramidal clusters of brilliant crimson berries 1 Well may the Chinese call it the Heavenly Bamboo, meaning thereby that its grace and beauty surpasses even their indispensalile Bamboo. It is rather slow grovi'ing when young, but when once estab- lished on a dry and somewhat shaded bank it is worth waiting for, and will always come to the rescue when other things fail. Berheris nepalensis is another indispensable evergreen shrub, with very handsome foliage and long spikes of pale yellow flowers in the winter months. It has stood out in wel- come relief the last si-X weeks, and aflforded a harvest to the bees, who have found it surprisingly hard work to get a lifing this season. B. japonica is a dwarfer and inferior plant here, but in England it is more planted than B. nepalensis, though I should doubt if there is much difference in hardiness between them. A hybrid Heath {Erica mediterranea hybrida) has also come much in notice this year. Its lilac flowers are really beautiful in semi-shade and moisture where the soil is not calcareous. As it is a comparatively new garden hybrid, it has not yet attained to the place its merits deserve. It is quite hardy anywhere, but I fancy its tall growth is much modified in England. As a hedge of 2 feet or 3 feet in height, cut down to that level each spring after flowering, it is even more valuable than the dwarf and delightful Erica carnea. The greatest surprise to me, how- ever, has been the display of seedling varieties of Pyrus japonica sent by a French firm to a nursery near here. The brilliant shades of salmon, pink, clear rose, and clear flesh pink, with more foliage at the time of flowering than the old red or white varieties possess, make an effect of the greatest value and beauty, and opens out quite a new field to the market gardener and florist who can force them with very little protection, and pro- duce a bush of brilliant flower that rivals the most gorgeous Azalea, and yet is hardy enough for outside window decoration. To those in France who can produce such stufi' freely in the open field there should be a wonderful demand for these Pyrus when they are better known. Among the relics that the frost has left us, the lilac sprays of Kennedya ovalifolia stand out as the only surviving member of its race that is able to flower this spring, and as by chance it is intertwined with the rampant Jasminurii primulinum, now in full flower, the effect is very pretty. Jasmiiium. primulinum is now showing what it may be like. In this climate it is excessively vigorous, like a Bramble, in fact, rooting wherever it touches the ground, and never ceasing its growth all the year round. The smaller side sprays flower profusely, and the size aud colour of the flowers make it desirable where there is plenty of room, but I should fancy it is not going to supersede the old and favourite Jasminum nuditiorum, which both flowers earlier and in greater profusion as far as I have observed. Perhaps when it can hang down from a height of 10 feet or 15 feet it may prove very beautiful, but it flowers so late as to compete with the Forsythias, which are even more beautiful here. PnaiHS davidiana rubra has been full of flower this year, while the white variety has suffered greatly from the heat and drought of last summer. It is not, however, greatly diti'erent or superior in efl'ect to the common and well-known Almond, which here flowers still earlier, and enjoys the severest droughts if on a calcareous soil. I am glad to see that the White Iris stylosa is amenable to pot culture when well fed. For the amateur there is no more precious flower for the cold house or frame. It has been a very welcome stand-by here during the past six weeks of flower famine. Edwaed H. Woodall. THE FERN GARDEN. Th o HARDY FERNS. The Season to Plaxt. NCE again we approach the season when our native Ferns commence to throw up their feathery fronds, and since afterwards it is difficult to handle the plants without detri- ment to their beauty, it is well to anticipate matters by doing beforehand what may be requisite in the way of rearrangement, dividing, repotting, &o. Already if we examine them we shall find distinct evidences of a start in many species, the brown protective scales in the crowns of the shield Ferns are pushing asunder and revealing the white ones, which represent their youthful stage, and if we turn out a pot plant we shall see the fresh while tips of the rootlets, indicating new activity. Since, however, no obvious growth sets in until the end of March, we cannot do better than to set about carrying out any operations which may be neces- sary. All quite dead fronds may now be removed provided we replace the protection they afford to the crowns by a liberal mulching of leaves. Tidiness is a virtue, but in securing it it is well to study Nature a little, and if we visit the Ferns in their native habitatswe shall find them cosily nestling amid their own dehri-i and that of their neighbours, and amid this damp debris we shall find them sending forth the young roots of the new growth, which exposure to dry March winds would undoubtedly cripple severely. The mulching of leaves then provides this protection, while doing away with the untidy old fronds which have hitherto performed the same office. Whatever remains alive and green should be left, and in favoured positions where the air is pure the evergreen species, Shield Ferns, Spleenworts, Hart's-tongues, and Blech- nums will have retained their fronds fairly intact, though in town gardens they will pro- bably be discoloured, and perhaps entirely killed by fog-borne poisons. Under glass, however, the evergreens should still be in good form. With the deciduous species, such as the Lady Ferns, Royal Fern, most of the Buckler Ferns, and others, the fronds will be absolutely dead, and can be removed in their entirety Ferns in pots and pans should be examined, and any necessary potting on be effected, removing at the same time any fronds which may have suffered from white fly or thrips last seas-on, as these are invariably the bearers of eggs. In cases of over dryness the pots should be plunged for an hour or two to ensure a thorough soaking of the soil. Both outside and inside, where Ferns which form I rowns are concerned, these should be kept as far as possible to one crown by removing the lateral offsets. Care should, however, be taken to keep their roots as intact as possible, and at this season it does no harm to fork the plants up or turn them out, as the case may be, and so facilitate this division. Only Ferns of the shuttlecock type should be thus treated. Those with creeping root-stocks are best left alone, as by their mode of growth the fronds arise at a fair distance from each other, while with a clump or crown the fronds grow into one another, and it is, moreover, an established fact that when isolated the crowns produce much larger and finer fronds, and in the case of fine varieties these particular characters are greatly enhanced. When repotting or making fresh stations a general compost of good loam and leaf-mould in equal portions does capitally, a liberal dash of coarse silver sand improving this compost for potting purposes. In planting Ferns in the open regard should be had to their need of protection from burning sunshine and also wind. Under the lee of a north wall is a capital site for a bed or a rockery, and in the innumerable glass houses which face north and are largely shaded by the house Ferns would thrive splendidly, while flowering plants under such conditions are rarely satisfactory. Consequently, we cannot do belter than recommend the introduction to such of some of the many beautiful varieties of our native Ferns, leaving the common forms of the species to decorate our western lanes and glens and act as Nature's raw material for the "sports" or finer forms we have in our mind's eye as we write. Chas. T. DanERY, V.ji.H., F.L.S. THE ROSE GARDEN, GARLANDS OF ROSES. N1 W that pruning time is at hand, would say "Woodman, spare the tree " when you come to specimens of the glorious free-growing varie- ies. When pruning the Ayrshires, sempervirens, and mullifloras do not cut off the long, arching growths. Thin a few out if you like ; in fact, it is essential that there should not be overcrowding. The growths may not appear so very thick to us now when foliage is absent, but we must try and picture what the plant will be like in June. The beauti- ful illustration upon The G.^rden Almanac gives a better idea of the style to adopt in the treat- ment of all garland Roses than any words can convey. Roses such as Aglaia, Euphrosyne, Flora, Felicitc Perpetue, Bennett's Seedling, Ruga, Crimson Rambler, Thalia, Penzance Briars, and hosts of others are all most amenable to this mode of growth. P. ROSES IN POTS. In the well-managed garden there will be several batches of Rose plants in pots, the earliest lot being almost ready to cut. If not already done the growths should receive supports, at the same time spreading them slightly outward, the object being to provide the foliage with as much sunshine and air as it can obtain. Weak doses of liquid manure will be helpful, but should be withheld as soon as colour is seen in the buds. The second batch will have buds about the size of peas. To these plants a teaspoonful of Clay's or other good fertiliser should now bo afforded, pointing it into the surface with a labjl. The question of syringing forced plants at this season of the year has always been a moot point with growers. I am inclined to think that the plants will thrive better without the aid of the syringe, providing due attention be given to damping down the paths, &c., to check red spider. The importance of thoroughly ripening the wood has been too often overlooked. During August and September the plants intended for March 25, 1905.1 TTIR GARDEN. 175 early forcing should have a good baking in a house that obtains full sun. Water, too, must be very sparingly given for a few weeks. The temperature of the early house must be kept very regular. Roses, especially those on the Briar stock, resent rapid forcing. About 55'' by day is ample, unless the sun shines out brightly, then of course the glass will run up to 65" and 70°, but will do no harm. If a cold spell of weather supervenes keep the inside teniperatureratherlow. Air must be given very cautiously On warm, still days open the top ventilators slightly, but when cold winds prevail then only open the side shutters on the lee side. Shutters of this descrip- tion near the pipes should be provided in all Rose bouses. Mildew is best kept in check by sulphuring the pipes or by use of the vaporiser. Mix some flowers of sulphur with a little milk, then paint the hot-water pipes over. On finding a spot or two of mildew take a little sulphur in the hand and rub over the spots with the thumb and finger. It should be remembered that roots need air, and for this reason the pots are raised up on other pots. This provides also for the rapid egress of the water. In the Rose house the HYBRID BRIAR ROSE UNA. Os' the many early-flowering garden Roses that hybridists have given us, the above variety must be regarded as one of the best. The handsome i tawny yellow, Tea-like buds expand into fine large blossoms of quite 4 inches diameter, bearing I two rows of petals of a lovely creamy white shade of colour. The flowers are produced in clusters of from three to six, and appear all along the growths if these latter are left to their own devices. The huge bed of Una at Kew, some 70 feet in circumference, contained but fifteen plants, and yet very little of the ground was visible. Some of the long shoots were crawling quite along the ground and studded with beautiful flowers, presenting a most sti iking appearance. The growth of the Rose is Briar-like in its robustness, but exhibits its hybrid nature in the reddish foliage, wood, and prickles. Una would be a delightful Rose to mingle with the Penzance Briars or Carmine Pillar, but I think hedges of this kind will be in most request. A raised bank of good loam, planted on its summit with Una and just left to run wild, would make an ideal Rose hedge. There is no form in which such Roses are better displayed than with arched BED OF ROSE UNA AT KEW. benches are best covered with a layer of ashes on slates. By damping down the benches and paths sufficient humidity is obtained for the plants' requirements without the need of much syringing. Fumigating is now done so easily that there is no excuse for green fly. The XL All preparations are very safe. I have found XL All sheets the best for small structures. One sheet is sufficient for 1,000 cubic feet of space. As the blooms expand it is a good plan to tie the centre with a piece of soft German wool. If a piece of paper be also tied round the bloom it is preserved much better, and, moreover, the blooms elongate by being treated thus. They should be quite dry before being tied up. Climbing Roses upon the roof must be watched, so that their young growths do not touch the glass. Often a fine bud is crippled by being pressed thus against the glass. It is surprising what fine plants ordinary varieties of Tea Roses develop into when planted against walls under glass. Some time ago I saw an immense plant of Papa Gontier growing with the utmost vigour. I was informed by the owner that very rarely was there a day that a bud could not be cut from this plant. A few early cuttings may be secured from the growths that have borne a flower. Insert such in sandy soil with good bottom-heat, and they win root readily and form nice plants by the autumn. P. growths, and, of course, one makes this possible by planting on raised banks. P. WHY NOT A SPRING ROSE SHOW? The National Rose Society is moving along on the right lines. Every Rose-lover must rejoice to see that the autumnal display of blossom is to be represented by a two days' exhibition, and I shall not be surprised if in time the picturesque effect of the autumn show does not eclipse the summer display. But there seems to me to be yet another branch of Rose culture that a National Society should take up, and that is the cultivation of Roses in pots. The Rose is such a splendid object as a pot plant, and lends itself to such a variety of artistic effects, grown in pillar, standard, weeping, or pyramid form, that there would surely be no lack of material to make a good display. I think the National Rose Society should waive the rule in this case, that all exhibitors must be members of the society, as by so doing many gardeners would be able to show their produce and perhaps in time be induced to join the society. One misses the beautiful displays of pot Roses that were brought together years ago, but even then, mixed in as they were with other plants, their beauty was somewhat marred. I should like to see a spring show exclusively of Roses, and I cannot see why this is not possible. P. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not respmisihle Jor the opinions expressed by correspoTidents. ) PLANT EXPORTS FROM ENGLAND TO ITALY. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] SIR,— You have doubtless observed the mention in the English papers of the great event that has occurred in Italy, viz., the King's having taken the initiative in proposing to establish an International College of Agriculture in Rome. If this project is carried out there can be no question of the benefits likely to accrue to this country, biit my object in addressing you on the subject is not to dwell on these, but to point out that this would seem to be a most favourable moment for the leading English horticulturists to unite in presenting a memorial direct to His Majesty, drawing his attention to the injury done to the sister branch of horticul- ture in Italy by the law, still in force, prohibiting the importation of a single green leaf from England, and praying that it may be repealed. This law had its origin in the fact that England, having no Amines to protect and, I believe I am right in saying, no phylloxera disease, did not join in what is known in postal parlance as the " Berne Convention," by which the various European countries interested in viticulture bound themselves to a non-importation of plants that had been grown within a certain specified radius from Vines. To say nothing of the futility of trying to keep phylloxera out of a country known to be already infested by it, there exists a regular system of contraband agencies who, for a consideration, undertake to pass parcels of English plants through the Dogana, and, further, English-grown bulbs are allowed free entry, notwithstanding that there is no better harbour of refuge for disease than bulbs in a dormant state. Theoretically, a 2xrmesso from the Minister of Agriculture in Rome can be obtained, but this is practically a dead letter, as it is invariably refused to private people. The Giardino of the Municipio in Florence has this 2'e^i^iesso, and so can get plants out from England, but I am not personally acquainted with any other exception being made, and some years ago Mr. Veitch told me that he would only send plants to Italy at the customer's own risk, as so many things he had formerly sent had been seized at the frontier and sold for the benefit of the rail- way employees at Modane. The state of horticulture in this country is simply deplorable, and when one thinks of what it might be, and of the benefit that would certainly accrue both to Italy and to England were there more commercio in plants and shrubs, it is surely worth the effort to establish a better understanding in a matter of such national importance, and if the Italian Government were to abolish this vexatious prohibition which so restricts any advance in horticulture, the British Post Office authori- ties might, perhaps, on their part be willing to withdraw the most unjustifiable order issued some years ago by which the flower post between Italyand England was abolished. This was done in the most arbitrary manner, and no adequate notice given of the proposed change, and the time selected for making it 176 TIIR GARDEN, [March 25, 1905. was only a few days before Easter, when hundreds of small market growers were expecting to make their little harvest from flowers raised for exportation to England. This affected three classes of poor people, the contadini who grow the flowers, the small florists who dispose of them in the market to \X\e, forestiere, who used to send them home to friends, and the makers of the very neat little boxes used for packing them in. I wrote at the time to draw Mr. Henniker Heaton's attention to the matter, and in his reply he assured me he never would rest till the flower post between Italy and England was re-estab- lished as before, but, so far as I know, nothing further appears to have been done in the matter. ''Tuscan.' BRITISH AND AMERICAN APPLES. [To THE Editor of " The Gardes."] Sir, — Reading the eulogistic terms in which Mr. Eagleheart has referred to Newtown Pippin Apple, it is amusing to recall the reference made to this same American variety by the Hon. Mr. Turner, Agent - General for British Columbia, who, in lecturing before the Royal Horticultural Society on the 2Sth ult., declared that Newtown Pippin was dry, chippy, and tasteless. In the face of such contradictions whom are we to believe? Why do not the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society have a tasting trial of some half-dozen of the best Americans and the same of our own best flavoured ? It is late, as a matter of justice to any varieties, to have that test applied now, but it may well be so applied in •January. No doubt when the show of Colonial fruit takes place on the 30th inst. we shall see Apples in very fine form from Australia, but it would not be fair to test our varieties with those for flavour. But in midseason I think, were tests made of such as I have mentioned, the unbiassed opinion would favour British Apples for juiciness and general excellence. A. D. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — What a difi'erence of opinion there seems to be regarding the quality of our own and that of American Apples, and how very pronounced is the attitude Mr. Engleheart has taken in favour of the foreign fruit. Some of his admissions can- not, I think, be supported by facts. Mr. Engle- heart describes that best of English Apples, Co.\'s Orange Pippin, as a supremely good one, and in almost the same breath condemns it because of its short season. He considers it past its best at the end of November. If Mr. Engleheart preaches such doctrines as this he certainly will not get a very large following from The Garden readers, for the Apple culturist will clearly see that he has not stored them well, or has not had good fruit to pass judgment upon. At the end of November I contend that its season has only then just commenced, and most decidedly there is no loss of flavour or crispness of texture at Christmas. Very much depends on the store- room as regards these qualities, and if they are lost by Christmas the fruits must have been badly kept. Then, again, it is said we must "fall back upon hopelessly second-rate Apples from January onward," a direct injustice to several standard English Apples. What of Egremont Russet, Claygate Pearniain, Reinette du Canada, Manningtou's Pearmain, Court Pendu Piat, Sturmer Pippin, Cockle's Pippin, Duke of Devonshire, Fearn's Pippin, Rosemary Russet, and King's Acre Pippin ? These are well known winter Apples, and I am sure Mr. Bunyard, from his now famous fruit store, could give a much longer list of Apples, both crisp and good flavoured, extending the season well into the spring months. Mr. Engleheart may be correct in saying there has been no Apple raising on an extensive scale carried out in this country, but British fruit catalogues and censuses show already an undue multiplication of names. The American method of severely limiting the number of sorts has so long been held up as an example of what the British fruit grower should imitate. While admitting these several truths, there is no gain- saying the fact that we have but one Cox's Orange Pippin ; the only other Apple of similar flavour is the Cornish Gilliflower. If the flavour of these Apples could be blended into, say, Sturmer Pippin, and so continue the winter Cox's Orange into summer, I am sure Mr. Engleheart would realise at least one of his dreams. W. Strugnell. POTATO TRIALS AT CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY FARM. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Among many new varieties of Potatoes introduced during the last three or four years, those raised and distributed by the late Mr. William Kerr stand out as being of exceptional quality. Those of us who personally knew Mr. Kerr feel regret that he was not spared to see the triumph of his splendid Duchess of Cornwall, which is certainly all or more than Mr. Kerr claimed for it. Since the International Potato Show in 1S92 I have received from Mr. Kerr (almost every year) some of his choice seedlings, and have found them exceedingly good in crop and quality. Recently I had the honour of judging cooked Potatoes at the Cambridge Uni- versity experimental farm, when Professor Middle- ton decided to award points as follows : Flavour, 15; texture, 10; colour, 5. Twenty-four varieties were tested, and from the following results it will be seen that Kerr's varieties hold a very high position. Results of Cooking Test. Name of Variety. o S s 1 Langworthy 10 ., 7 .. 4 ., '1 Ken's Duiufriea iludel 14 . . 10 . . 5 3 Evergooii 8 .. 7 .. 3 \\ 4 Cramond Blossom 12 . . 10 . . 5 n General Buller s.. 6. .3.. 0 Lord Salisbury 5.. 6. .3.! 7 Dobbie's favourite 13 .. S .. i .. 5 Charles Fidler 10 . . 10 . . 5 It Kerr's King Edward 7 . . 10 , . 4 10 Dobbie's Improved Kidney 7 ,. 7 .. 2 " 11 Royal Kidney s.. 7 . . z W 12 Sutton's niscover>* 5 .. 6 .. 2 .. 13 Butler's King Edward VII 6 . "; .. i .. 14 Kerr's Earl of Chester 15 .. 10 .. 5 \b ,, Bennett Burleigh 15 .. 10 .. 5 .. 10 Northern Star 10 . . 7 . . 2 17 Kerr's Lord Mfethuen 12 .. 10 .. 5 .! 15 ,, Lord Dundonald 13 .. 10 .. 5 .. V.) British Queen 12 . . s . . 4 20 Kerr's Vicar of Ormskirk s .. 7 .. 4 .. 21 Goodfellow 6 .. 5 .. 3 ". ! 22 Kerr's Cigarette 7 .. 7 .. 4 ,! 23 Empress tjueen 14 ,. 7 ., 3 '' 24 Factor 0 .. 7 .. 3 .'. This variety had been exposed in boxes for sproutii and was very green, which quite spoiled its cooki quality. J. H. RiDGEWELL. The Gardens, Hisfon, Cambs. THE GARDENERS' ORPHAN FUND. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Should the committee agree to adopt Mr. H. J. Veitch's suggestion — that in the future, while two nominations may be received from one family, only one of those nominations shall be put on the voting paper in any one year — as, no doubt, it will be, the objection held by Mr. E. Burrell and so many other subscribers to dupli- cate voting for members of one family will be fully met. The consensus of opinion now is evidently in favour of some such regulation. Permit me to mention that, with a desire to induce gardeners not hitherto in any way sub- scribers to the Orphan Fund to become such, I recently, at a meeting of our Kingston Gardeners' Society, invited the members to have a collection at each meeting. This was agreed to. We have had three collections, and, if continued at each meeting, shall have a handsome donation for the fund later on. Would that all gardeners' socie- ties might do likewise. A. Dean. CHINESE CABBAGES. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Your reply to "F. M." (page 95 The Garden, lllh ult.) indicates that the cultivated Chinese Brassicas are now little known in Europe. Several Cabbage-like plants have long been grown by Chinese gardeners about most large American cities, and have become quite familiar. The best^ of these is the Pe-tsai (Brassica Pe-tsai, Biiley), a strong-growing plant with large, light green, crinkled leaves, forming a large, long, loose head, like a gigantic Cos Lettuce. As grown here it is an annual, running to seed soon after heading, but autumn-sown plants may be kept under shelter. It has a very good flavour when boiled as " greens," like Kale or CuUards (Coleworts), and the blanched, tender leaves of the head are excellent uncooked as a salad. I have tried to develop a close-heading variety by selection, but have invariably been stopped by the best plants refusing to seed. To'erably close heads may often be found in a planting, but they have always proved barren in this locality. I have made numberless attempts to hybridise Pe-tsai with the garden Cabbage, B. Oleracea, without avail. When grown under glass, even with one species grafted on the other, and particular care taken in covering and applying pollen, no good seeds resulted, though full-sized pods were developed from the pollinated bloom«, no matter which species was used as pollen or seed parent. Pe-tsai thrives best in cool, moist weather, and quickly supplies an enormous quantity of "greens." The culture is quite like that of ordinary Early Cabbage. Pe-tsai was introduced into France before 1840, and, according to the "Cyclopaedia of American Horticulture," was included in the second edition of Paillieuxand Bois's "LePotager d'un Curieux, 1S9'2." W. van Fleet. Little Silrer, New Ji rxey. OUR APPLE SUPPLY. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — Referring to your leader of the 25th ult., on " New Orchards," I trust it will always be the endeavour of all who have the interests if our home Apple suppl}' at heart to deprecate the planting of standard trees, either on grass or otherwise, as it is quite useless for us in this country to look for such superb samples of Apples as are needed to find ready sale in competition with the beautiful American fruits, which come to us so abundantly, from orchards of the standard type of tree. The Herefordshire grower of Apples who complained that his samples obtained 6d. per bushel in the market must have sent a sorry sample indeed, but, still, how characteristic would such a sample be of vast quantities of home-grown fruit seen in our shops and stores, small, spotted with fungus, and because gathered from trees whose roots are far out of reach of manure dressings, is dry eating and flavourless. During the present winter, for instance — following, as it has, upon one of the best of Apple crops — it has not been possible for anyone anxious for our reputation as an Apple- producing nation to note the wretched samples seen in shops or markets and compare them with imported samples without a sense of humiliation. Yet these poor samples were, in the great majority of cases, the produce of standard trees in orchards. By comparison turn to the really superb samples of fruit exhibited last month at the Vincent Square Hall by Messrs. George Bunyard and Co. from Kent, and the King's Acre Nursery Com- pany, Hereford. These collections comprised samples of most beautiful varieties rich in colour, handsome, of good size, clean, and all as firm as if just gathered. With such samples put on the market by thousands of tons — for the Apple Mai;ch 25, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 177 trade ia a huge one — the highest possible prices could be obtained, and high-coloured imported fruits of inferior quality would have to take a back seat. Of course, such fruita would have to be presented for sale graded and well packed in utensils that would make them welcome in grocera' shops and stores, as American fruits are now. That is one of the matters which needs to be perpetually proclaimed until a complete reformation in marketing methods is adopted. It will not do to say that because superb fruits may be produced in nurseries they cannot be grown ordinarily. That reasoning will not do. What is possible at Maidstone, or Hereford, or Langley, or Bassaleg, or Crawley, or at Houns- low is possible anywhere else. It is a question of method. Grow dwarf trees on the Paradise stock by tens of thousands, plant faiily close for a few years, then lift all and replant wider apart. It will do the trees great good, and then let them remain, pruning just moderately. When either heavily cropped or recuperating after heavy crop- ping manure liberally on the surface, just as the market Grape grower year after year obtains his huge crops of Grapes. Practically what is needed is the carrying of nursery practice into our market fruit gardens, being content to grow fruit only, and not starve trees with intermediate crops of bulbs. Wallflower.", vegetables, or other things which are most injurious to them. The planting of dwarf trees needful for ten acres for four or five j'ears would suffice if all were lifted to replant from twenty to thirty acren without purchasing a single additional tree. What sort of trees these would become and the way they would fruit under high culture we see in private gardens, whence comes so much splendid fruit. Culture of this kind would be costly, but with great crops well matured and easily gathered prices would rule high also. A. D. GARRYA ELLIPTICA. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I have read with interest the notes in The Garden of the 11th inst. The conclusion one is apt to draw from them seems to me to be that, except in the south of England, it is necessary to give this beautiful shrub the protection of a wall. This fact would very likely lead to its being very little grown except in the warmer parts of the country. I am therefore venturing to record the fact that I have known it to flourish in this dis- trict with no other protection than that gained from its being planted on the south side of a belt of shrubs. In this position it was obviously perfectly happy, and produced an abundance of catkins. The specimen to which I am alluding was, when I last saw it, a well-formed bush some 10 feet in height. Old Calton, Norwich. Wilfrid Tillett. A HARDY BLUE FLOWER. (Anchusa italica, the Dropmore Variety.) [To THE Editor or "The Garden."] Sir, — The illustration of the Dropmore variety of Anchusa italica which appeared on January 14 seems to have aroused widespread interest, as I have received nine letters on the subject, one of them being from the United States Department of Agriculture. The accompanying note on page 21 was entirely confined to the Dropmore variety, which I have good authority for believing is not yet in commerce. This was raised by Mr. Charles Herrin, late head gardener at Dropmore, through whom I procured my plants. There are doubtless other fine large-flowered forma, one of which Mr. Molyneux and Mr. George EUwood write of on page 133, under the name of superba. Another form, entitled Anchusa grandiflora, is an exceed- ingly handsome plant, and I have heard of yet another, named magnifica, which my corre- spondent speaks very highly of. I have not met with either the first or last, and was unable to compare the individual flowers of A. grandiflora with those of the Dropmore variety, which, as I mentioned on page 21, are nearly H inches across. There is little doubt that all of these are superb subjects for the herbaceous border, and I am fully in accord with Mr. EUwood in his esti- mate of the large-flowered Anchusa as " the king of hardy plants." I note that Mr. Molyneux has had the same experience with A. superba, in its failing to come true from seed, as I referred to in the case of the Dropmore variety. However, root cuttings appear to grow so readily that there should be no difficulty in extensively propagating the plant. Mr. Molyneux's description of his new A. azurea makes one long to possess it, for a pale blue form of the large-flowered Alkanel would be a most valuable plant for the border. S. W. FiTZHERBERT. THE FLOWER GARDEN. VIOLETS IN CORNWALL. DOUBLE Violets grown at Tredethy, 1 the Cornish seat of Colonel Francis I Hext, are, without exception, the ' finest I have ever seen. Every plant, and there are five frames full, is in robust health, with deep green glossy leaves, and plenty of large flowers standing well up on stout stalks. Mr. F. Rundle, the VIOLETS at tredethy, CORNWALL, GROWN BY MR. E. RUNDLE. gardener at Tredethy, who for many years has been a successful exhibitor at the Cornwall Spring Flower Show, annually held at Truro, was good enough to give me the details of his treat- ment. He holds that the essentials are : Plants raised from cuttings, for such plants produce much finer flowers than those obtained by division, firm planting, and careful ventilation. Early in January Mr. Rundle selects a fairly open position in the kitchen garden and bastard trenches it as for a vegetable crop, working in a liberal amount of farmyard manure. In April this plot is lightly forked over, made firm, and raked. Cuttings are then taken from the plants still flowering in the frames and inserted as firmly as possible 1 foot apart. For a time these cuttings flag and look unhealthy, but soon pick up. Throughout the summer the plants are syringed freely to keep off red spider ; all runners are removed, and the Dutch hoe is freely used. During the summer the box-frames are well scrubbed, and if necessary painted. Planting. — The plants are moved to the frames in September, choosing dull weather. The frames are half filled with spent hot-bed material, and upon this to within 8 inches of the top is placed a compost consisting of equal parts sound loam, from a two year old stack, leaf-soil, and spent hot- bed manure, treading it firm and keeping the sur- face to the level named. The plants are carefully lifted with a good ball of soil and planted firmly at 9 inches apart, keeping the crowns at the same level as before ; deep planting is to be avoided. At this point Mr. Rundle insists that it is a great mistake to place the lights on the frames for at least a fortnight, and no water is to be given. If the soil is in proper condition and the plants are carefully lifted they will not flag. Closing the frames at this period tends to draw up the crowns and make the plants weakly. After the plants have rooted in the fresh soil the lights may be put on and tilted at night, removing them by day when weather permits. Ail runners and decaying leaves must be constantly removed, and the sui face-soil frequently stirred. Ventilating. — This, says Mr. Rundle, is the most importantdetail of successful Violet culture. Whenever possible air should be admitted at all times. But from the beginning of December to April the lights should never be drawn off, but tilted at the ends or sides according to the direction of the wind. At night they are tilted with an inch block ; 2" or 3° of frost will do no harm, if more is expected the frames are closed and covered with mats during severe weather. Seven weeks before the date of the flower show all blooms and buds showing colour are removed. The beds are given a good dressing of soot, which is lightly stirred in with a handfork, and thoroughly soaked with weak cow manure liquid, washing off the liquid manure with clear rain water. As the flowers intended for exhibition begin to expand the glass of the frames is thinly shaded with whitewash to preserve their colour. Tredethy is in such an open position that screening from rough winds is necessary. This, as will be seen by the illustration, is effected by fuize hurdles. Varieties. — For exhibition purposes Mr. Rundle prefers Comte de Brazz.i, white ; Marie Louise, dark blue; Lady Hume Cimpbell and Neapolitan, pale blue. At this time of the year the two last named are much alike, but Neapolitan is somewhat lighter in colour, and flowers freely throughout the winter, while Lady Hume Camp- bell is at its best only in the spring. A frame of the purple Mrs. J. J. Astor was very striking. The colour is good and distinct, but, unfortunatelj', the perfume, so necessary in a Violet, is not quite equal to that of the others. Nevertheless, it is a desirable variety, and most effective when loosely arranged in a small bowl. Single Violets are grown solely in the open, under similar treatment to that given the double- flowered varieties, except that ihev are flowered where the cuttings are inserted. Here again the same high cultivation is in evidence, the plants having clean healthy foliage and large flowers on stout stalks. Of many varieties tried Mr. Rundle considers Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice, La France, and Admiral Avellan, in the order given, to be the best. Pencarrow, Cornwall. A. C. Bartlett. SUMMER PLANTS FOR TUBS AND BOXES. Where there is little in the way of flower-bed or border in the immediate neighbourhood of the house, some fairly large plants in tubs or boxes serve to brighten the surroundings through the summer months, and it will soon be time to make preparations. The varnished Oak and Teak tubs introduced a few years ago by Messrs. Champion are about the best for the purpose, and of these I like the round tub about 18 inches high, the same in diameter, and furnished with handles for more easy transit. Sweet Peas make a brave show, and with the necessary amount of attention will remain in flower well into the autumn. Compost for these may consist of four parts loam, one of thoroughly decomposed manure well broken up, and half a shovelful of wood ashes for each tub. In filling leave quite 2 inches clear from the top to allow for a summer 178 THE GARDEN. IMahch 25, I0u5. mulching. Sow thinly, one colour to each tub. I have tried many different soft-wooded green- house plants for a similar purpose, as Pelar- goniums (both zonal and scented), Marguerites, Hydrangeas, Cannas, &c., but X prefer well- grown Fuchsias to anything else ; they have not the stiff appearance o"f other things, and seem to adapt themselves to any surroundings. Varieties of stocky, vigorous habit and very free, as Mrs. Marshall, Lady Heytesbury, Annette, General Roberts, Scarcity, and Ballet Girl, are all good, ]eaves means a spot, and to these may be added some of the newer selfs, which are very attractive and free. A few large plants of Franooa ramosa associate well with the darker Fuchsias. If a. few foliage is only by repeated washings we keep it fairly over and intertwining among the bushes, but clean. For this purpose we use a solution of I had more blooms on our own vines at home hydrofluoric acid. First wet the glass, then than were in view on the wild plants, and I with a wide soft brush wipe it over with the really believe our greenhouse Howers — worse solution, and immediately wash it oft' with luck to it ! — smelled stronger than those in the clean water. The acid cuts and unfastens woods. How delightful it is to meet the rare the dirt on the glass. But all plants must be exotics one grows so tenderly at home, in removed for the time being from under the their own country, in their native element ; glass, as every drip of the solution on the and how we note every phase of their asso- plants are required and facilities are" not to hand have tried many other things- for growing large Palms, Bimboos, as Simoni or Metake, make ver good substitutes. Claremont. E. Bcrrell. This saves an immense ciations,environment,and cultural conditions, amount of rubbing. Don't be afraid of it, to see if ours are right or wrong. Keep red we have been using this for years. But don't spider oft' of the Pelican plant, however, and use it too strong ; dilute it with water. We | ours are all right. -oxalic acid, 1 YUCCA GUATEMA- LENSIS. A Yucca over 40 feet high, with a trunk 6 feet in girth at the base, a branched head of dark green foliage and two enormous sheaf - like panicles of large, Lily-like, ivory-white, fragrant flowers is surely a plant to be admired, even by horticulturists of fastidious tastes such as Mr. Gumbleton It certainly caused some e.xcite- nient at Kew last year, when it was one of the most striking of the big things in the tem- perate house, where it has grown for at least the last twenty - five years and has flowered several times. The illustration here given is from a photograph taken last yej,r by Mr. Rafiill from the gallery of the house, and, although it does not suggest the enormous proportions of the plant, it aft'ords a very good idea of the grandeur of its head when the flowers were at their best. Not only is this the largest Yucca known in European gardens, but it is one of the handsomest of a genus which includes such beautiful plants as Y. gloriosa, Y. recurvifolia, itc. Mr. Gumbleton considers such a plant unworthy of a quarto plate in the Botanical Magazine. His taste, however, is not altogether catholic. In the opinion of all good judges this Yucca is one of the best things figured in recent years, and a first- rate plant for a large conservatory. W. W. A LETTER FROM AMERICA Effects of Fog on Glass Houses (page 72). — Dear old Kew ! You talk about London iugs and London smoke, and, as I lived there and worked there for years, I well remember what they are. But here in Pittsburg, the busiest beehive and most industrial city on earth, coal and iron prevailing, we too have fogs ; not so much as you have, though, and smoke immeasurably more than you have. The glass of our greenhouses is black, and, it A note about lawns. — As the lovely velvety lawns of England are pro- verbial the world over, please forgive me if I tell you some- thing about how I treat a new lawn. This is suggested by your note on page 80. I have been at this work for many years, and laid down hundreds of acres of park, golf, and garden lawns. Weeds are the curse of our lawns, and we have one very bad weed, namely. Crab Grass, an annual that, once it gets in, is almost ineradicable, hence we must begin aright. Say the land has been properly unfastened, graded, and fertilised, and all inequalities filled up and the surface smoothened, I top-dress it with 2 inches to 3 inches deep of fresh loam, then level it very carefully and smoothly, and sow it and rake in the seed. The value of the top- dressing is what I wish to tell you about. The manure is full of the seeds of weeds, more especially mixed or cow manure, and if near the surface these seeds will surely grow. But I go to an old field, and skin oft' the sod, say, 3 inches deep, throwing it aside, and load up 3 inches to 4 inches or more deep of the loam that was under that sod, and cart that on to the surface of the new lawn. There are very few seeds in this loam, and on it we get a very clean germination of grass. After the grass comes up don't let it get long enough for the scythe, but run over it with a new or sharp - edged mowing machine ; this cuts down the ranker grasses, and gives the shorter denser grasses, which are usually the latest to muriatic acid, Ac— but found nothing as good 1 germinate and the most useful for carpeting, as the hydrofluoric. The deposit of soot here j a chance to get up and assert them- is persistent, it is falling every day in the ; selves. Never let^ the strong grasses get year, and this is why our commercial florists i ahead. Use artificial fertilisers afterwards, have been driven to the suburbs and outside \ There are certain brands specially prepared YUCCA GUATEMALENSIS IN TUB TEJIPERATE HOCSE AT KEW towns. Do we manage to grow plants 1 Indeed we do. You ought to see the Phipps Conservatories at Easter. That Pelican flower (page 77). — Yes, I have grown it ; had one of the first plants Mr. Sturtevant sent out. But doesn't it smell ! Oh, how I remember the first time I saw these big Aristolochias in bloom in their native wilds ! It was in a thicket of trees and bushes near the liio Cobra River in for grass, and there are no weed seeds in it as there are in top-dressings of farmyard manure. Go over them and hand-weed the lawns if necessary as soon as the weeds show themselves well above the ground. If this is done at first there will be very little trouble afterwards ; the thickening grass and frequent mowings are apt to do the rest. I never sow the seed plain from hand ; I always mix it with sifted moist loam. In this way, Central Jamaica. There it was cl^wbering i if thoroughly mixed, a little wind at sowing March 25, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 179 time has no effect in blowing the seeds I now Anemone Hepatica, and Hepatica angu- ,' moon masculine. Anyone who has the least unevenly. As a protection against birds I losa is Anemone angulosa. | acquaintance with Latin knows that the put the larger seed, as Rye Grass, into a wide You will occasionally come across cases of termination " is," as in " i5erberis," denotes a bo.x, and sprinkle a few drops of linseed oil this retention of the older generic name for feminine word, and that the termination over it, then mix it very thoroughly so as s])ecific use, with the accompanying capital "um" is neuter. But here we have a femi- tu moisten all the seeds a little without letter where you would not expect one, as, nine generic name and the accompanying making them wet. Then dust a little red for instance, among well-known shrubs such specific name with a neuter termination, lead on to the seed and mix it all up again ; as Berberis_ Aquifolium and Viburnum This is because botanists, when they agreed the lead sticks to the oil, and the oil to the Opulus. This use of the capital letter will, to retain the old generic name as the new seed. Now put in your finer seeds and mix of course, not be confounded with its occur- specific one, decided to retain it in its old all up together, then mix with the loam, and rence in those generic names that are derived form without any alteration whatever, it is ready for sowing. Even the sparrows from personal names, as Ampelopsis Veitchii, The name " Hepatica " alone, not used in a will not eat the leaded seeds, and it does not meaning Veitoh's Ampelopsis. botanical sense, has been generally adopted hurt the germination of the grass in the . There is another point to note about some as the popular name of the plant, and may least. I may say if you can get the surfacing ; of these names, of which a good instance be considered as good English ; just as we loam from an old pasture field so much the I occurs in " Berberis Aquifolium." In English have adopted and commonly use the names better, and the thinner the sod may be 1 we are not troubled with genders in the case Iris, Anemone, Azilea, &c. G. .J. removed the greater the depth one __ can get of the good soil, W. Falconee. ANEMONE HEPATICA. A COKEESPONDENT (D. Harris) asks a question about the correct name of Hepatica. It is one that often arises ROSA GIGANTEA. So far this single Rose, magni- ficent as it is in its native country. Upper Barmah, and also on the Riviera, has proved unsatisfactory under cultiva- tion in this country. The most successful cultivator of Rosa gigantea in England is Mr. Leach, head gardener to the Duke of Northumberland at Albury Park, Surrey. At Albury it flowered for the fir.-.t time in 1903. Mr. Leach \- :y among gardeners and amateurs. The right name is Anemone Hepatica. Note the capital Hto Hepatica. The older name was Hepatica triloba. The plant is so old a favourite in gardens that the well-known name is naturally un- willing to leave it ; indeed, it has grown into the language, and has now become the popular name Of late years botanists have been at woik revising the classification of plants, and the (Fiowenofthn Ro^e uhuh , tendency, strongest perhaps among Engli'-h " "' " " botanists, has been not to multiply genera, but to simplify them. Thus in the older days Hepatica, though always known to be closely allied to Anemone, was kept as a separate genus, but now it is included in Anemone. Hence the name Hepatica, which i of names of inanimate objects ; but in Greek ^exhibited some floweringshoots at the meeting was formerly the name of a genus, now I and Latin, and European languages generally of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 28tli becomes the name of the one species which every noun is either masculine or feminine— ult , and obtained for them a cultural commen- is the parent of the many varieties of the old j apparently for no particular reason ; indeed, dation and a botanical certificate. The flowers lately tlonered in England, were shown by Mr. Leach, gar- dener to the Duke of Northiim- berland, Anbury Park, before the Royallloi t'cultnral Society on the 2Sth ult. Reduced.) garden Hepatica. An interesting point to note is that when this occurs botanists have agreed to record the history of the name, and its removal from generic to specific rank, by retaining the capital letter in the newly-adopted specific name. Thus what was Hepatica triloba is in some of these languages there are three i shown on the 28th ult. were not so fine as we genders — masculine, feminine, and neuter. Why a language was ever burdened with such a useless complication it is hard to say, for there is no general rule. Thus in French the sun is masculine and the moon feminine, while in German the sun is feminine and the have seen in the South of France. In Lord Brougham's garden at Cannes the flowers measured 6 inches across. Those shown by Mr. Leach were white, and the buds were huff-coloured. Difl'erent descriptions of this Rose show that the flowers vary in colour, i ISO TILE GARDEX Makcii 5. 1905. GARD8NING FOR BSGINN8RS. DISBUDDING is thinning the shoots , of fruit trees and other plants for I the purpose of concentrating the f growing force into fewer channels. The Peach, for instance, produces many more young shoots than can be permitted to remain, and the surplus are dis- budded when about 1 inch or '2 inches long. This is done gradually, spreading the work over two or three weeks to avoid giving a check to the growth. When disbudding is finished there is usually only two shoots left on each branch — one near the base, and the leader. The latter is left to draw up the sap to nourish the young fruit, with- out which Peaches would not properly develop. Foreriijht Shoots. — These are shoots which spring out from the front of the branches at nearly right angles, and cannot be utilised in any way for extending the trees. In the case of the Peach they are removed altogether, but with the Pear and other trained trees are shortened back in summer, when getting a little firm at the base, to four leaves. Fureright shoots are also known by the term "breast wood," because they spring direct from the front or breast of the trees. These terms are only used in the case of trained trees on walls or espaliers. Summer Pruning of Fruit Trees. — This is important work, and in the case of wall trees should begin about the end of .July and be divided into three periods, with intervals of ten days between, doing the top of the trees first and the b )ttom last. The olject of this is to equalise the How of the sap and give additional support to the bottom branches. It is found in practice that if four perfect leaves are left on each spur the back e3es will fill up, and some will in due course form fruit-buds that will develop blossoms, but overcrowding should be avoided. At the winter pruning the snags left by the summer pruner are shortened to two buds, and if the spurs are much crowded some of the longest are removed altogether to keep the fruit blossom near ihe wall to secure its protection. If a little alteniion is given to this matter annually the trees will not get out of hand, and the work of thinning will be comparatively light. It is simply a question of doing the right thing at the right time. Cheap Plants. — This is an age of cheapness. Competition has brought down the price, as it always does, but the business is worked at a very small profit and can only be done on a cash basis. The increase of gardening literature — as, besides the weekly gardening papers, many of the daily and weekly journals have a gardening column — haslet in a flood of gardening advertise- ments, in which plants are offered at very low rates. Some of the plants are very poor stuff, but the price is so low that if only half grows the buyer is generally satisfied. Only those firms who deal fairly in the long run find the business answer. Some Hedge Plants. — The Holly when well managed forms a grand fence either at the boundary or in the garden. If one could afford to wait, a strong hedge could be raised from seeds for almost a normal sum, but the seeds do not germinate till the second year. Young plants 1 foot high, selected with leaders, will make a good hedge in from six to eight years if the land is well broken up and manured. The English Yew comes next to the Holly, but, being poisonous, cin only be planted in enclosed grounds. For a boundary fence Cherry Plum, either alone or mixed with common Privet at the rate of three Plums to one Privet, makes a good fence. i SIMPLE HINTS. Belgium for Azaleas. — The neighbourhood of Ghent contains many Azalea nurseries, whose output of plants find their way into England or America. The majority of these pass into the hands of the market man, who disroots until he Cin get the balls into o-inch or 6 inch pots. Scarcely any other plant would submit to so much injury and still retain the flower-buds, but these little disrooted plants do flower amazingly, and are forced into bloom before or by Easter and sold in the markets all over the country. Azalea.s after Floweriiig. — The majority of the Azaleas imported annually, which amounts to many thousands, die after flowering from neglect. They are easy enough to manage, but they must A TYPICiL EUSa APPLE. not be permitted to get dust-dry at any timr. After flowering remove faded flowers and seed- pods, and keep in a shady greenhouse, regularly syringed, to make growth. When the growth is getting a bit firm in July place outside on a cool ash bed, still S3'ringing freely and giving wattr when necessary. Value of Firm Potting. — There is more than one advantage from firm potting. In the first place, when the soil is pressed firmly in the pot it contains more food for the roots and the soil is more retentive of moisture. Excessive water- ing is not an unmixed good, as all the water that passes through must carry some of the fertilising matter with it. Small though it may be, there is really a loss, which has to be made good ultimately by adding something to the water, and, secondly, firm potting builds up firm growth which flowers abundantly. And this is really the essential point. Hart's-tongue Ferns. — A damp, shad}' position, where the soil is rather heavy and freely mixed with bits of sandstone, suits these best. There is a good deal of choice, and this variety might be increased if a good seltction is grouped together under suitable conditions and the spores encour- aged to grow. The varieties of Scolopendrium vulgare produce spores freely. They thrive best near water. The finest specimens we have seen were grown in the mouth of an old well. Shade Trees. — The Walnut is a favourite tree for placing a seat under in hot weather, because the flies are not so troublesome there as else- where. The Abele Poplar is a wide-spreading tree, and the motion of its foliage has a soothing effect upon the nerves in hot weather, especially when the tree is on the banks of a lake. The Huntingdon Willow makes a grand tree when it has acquired some age, but, like the Elm, is rather dangerous to sit under. Onions for Pro/it. — A well-known cultivator, in addressing a body of woiking men, said he believed a living might be macie by growing Onions. And, given suitable soil, well cultivated and manured, it is, we think, well within the compass of any real working man. But do not sow Onions on weedy land, for unless Onions are kept clean they must fail. Buy seed of a good selected stock, and, if possible, sow in boxes in .January in the gret nhouse or where a little heat can be given. Harden iff, and plant out in rows I foot apart and 6 inches apart in the rows early in April. Give one or two small dressings of nitrate of soda during growth. Propagating the Mulberry. — The Mulberry is an interesting tree, and bears free'y good fruits in its old age. It is easily propagated by cut- tings planted firmly in a shady border and mulched to retain the moisture in the soil. Large branches have been occasionally rooted, but there are many failures with the large truncheons, though j'ounger shoots taken off with a heel of older wood root freelj'. It takes a long time to make a fruiting tree, but the^' live to a good old age. Early Vegetable Marrows. — Marrows have been grown more extensively of late years under glass than was formerly the case, and those who have been able to produce them early in M.ny and June have been well repaid for their trouble, coming in as they do at a time when choice vegetables are scarce. No time should now be lost in sowing the seed, the Bush Marrows (green or white, whichever is preferred) are the best to plant under glass, as they come earlier into bearing and occupy less space. Bush Apple Trees. — For the small garden the bush Apple tree is the most useful ; it beats fruit quickly, and does not take up much room in pro- portion to the crop produced. They may be grown by the side of the garden path, and there form a feature at once useful and beautiful. It is important to have a selection of suitable varie- ties, otherwise a good deal of labour and expense may prove valueles.s. The following are excellent for culture in bush form : Lady Sudeley, Cox's Orange Pippin, Cockle's Pippin (dessert), and Stirling Castle, Bismarck, and Lane's Prince Albert (cooking). March ti5, 190o. THE GARr»KX 181 GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. CUTTINGS of Calceolarias, Pentstemons, Antir- rhinums, Veronicas, Hydrangeas, Lauruslinus, Choisya ternata, and others of a similar nature inserted in cold pita in the autumn will now be well rooted, and must be fully exposed excepting during inclement weather. As, probably, they were put in thickly as cutting'!, they must be transplanted into other pits or sheltered positions before becoming drawn, but, if direct planting from the cutting bed early is decided upon, the points of must shoots must be nipped out to produce stubby and branching growth. Gladioli should be planted when the soil is in a tit condition, and there are none better for bold groups and distant effect than G. brenchleyensis. A large bed of these planted liberally with heavy, healthy corms about 1 foot to li feet apart, and carpeted with either Antir- rliinum Queen of the Nurih or Yellow Queen, or both com- bined, produce a prolonged and very beautiful effect. The G. Childsii group are also indispensable for clumps and masses, producing noble spikes of splendid decided self colours, while the choicer of the G. gandavensis section are, I think, better adapted for lines or beds nearer the eye, the mai kings and feathering being so refined that the closer the inspection the greater the beauties revealed. Plant with a dibble 3 inches or i inches deep in well- enriched holding soil. With those left in the ground through the winter exercise the greatest care that no harm befall the strong young growths as they penetrate through the surface by being snapped off by woikmen working among them. It is hoped that no frost severe enough to iiijure last year's growth of Hydrangea hortensis will occur thus late in the season, and, as all dead and damaged wood can now be easily seen, cut the formercleanout, and the latter, together with weakly growth, cut down to the base. Shorten moderate shoots to a stout plump bud, but by all means leave alone strong, well-ripened shoots with a bold bud on the points. Fill up a pit or frame, according to require- ments, with leaves or anything that will generate a very mild heat and maintain it for a short time, and cover with light suitable soil for sowing Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Siilpiglossis, Phlox Drumraondii, &c. I find these and many similar do much better sown thus than in boxes in heated houses. Continue propagating all soft -wooded plants required for the emt)ellishment of the flower garden as fast as cuttings are produced, and prick out seedlings as soon as they can be handled. JOHN KOBERTS. The Gard^nSy Tan-y-bwlch, North Wales. huuse. At Burfoid we afford no water at the roots, but syringe between the pots once or twice daily until the growths show signs of advancement. Later the amount of water may be gradually increased. Bur/ord Gard^'iis, Dorking. W. H. WHITE. ORCHIDS. Deciduous Calanthes.— The few species of this genus and their far more numerous hybrids are undoubtedly among the most useful stove flowering plants. For winter display in the houses and for decorative purposes generally there are few plants that come in at such a useful time as a quantity of well-grown Calanthes. When the plants are well cultivated the individual spikes are large, and continue to bloom whilst increasing in length ; they are exceedingly effective when arranged amongst Palms, ferns, Cyptrus, or other foliage plants. Where a number of varieties can be grown a succession of bloom may be had for about five months ; the spikes when cut will last for several weeks in winter in a cool room. The flowering period commences in November with C. vestita and its varieties, C. Veitchii, C. V. splendens, a beautiful and distinct variety ; C. V. alba, flowers wholly white ; i hen follow C. burfordiense, C. versicolor, C. bella, C. amabllis, C. sandhurstiana, C. Victoria Regina, C. Bryan, C. Hanisii, C. Sedenii, C. rosea, C. William Murray, C. rubro-oculata, C. luteo-oculata, and many others. These continue to flower well into the new year, and when they are getting past their best the other varieties of C. vestita, as C. Regnierii, C. sanderiana, C. Stevensii, C. Turnerii, and its pure white variety C. T. nivalis, commence to open, and some of them are at the end of this month still in their full beauty. The varieties just mentioned have com- menced to grow, and should be repotted as soon as the young growths are a little advanced, or immediately before the new roots begin to push out. On no account should these Calanthes be allowed to remain a second year in the old soil. Turn the plants out of the pots, and the whole of the old soil should be shaken from the pseudo-bulbs. It is better to shorten the old roots, now dead, to about 1 inch than to remove them, as by retaining them thus far they help to steady the bulbs and keep them in their places until the new roots get a firm hold of the soil. I have succeeded best when the compost has been about as follows : Three parts turfy yellow loam, from which the finer particles have been mostly shaken out, the other part consisting of a little dried cow manure, chopped sphagnum moss, and coarse clean silver sand, the whole being well mixed together. The atmospheric conditions as main- tained in Melon or Cucumber houses are generally found to be far more suitable to the well-being of these plants than can be aflforded in our Orchid houses or plant stoves. Select sound, clean pots, and good drainage is essential, half filling them being sutficient. The most convenient sizes are 7-inch and 8-inch pots. Into these pots place five or six moderate-sized bulbs ; if very large, three or four will be suflacient, but where space is of little consequence the strongest bulbs may be planted in 5 inch pots and the smaller ones in pots of lesser size. After potting give these plants the best position available in the hottest INDOOR GARDEN. Ericas and EI'ACuis.— Many of the earlier plants cut back are now covered with young shoots about half an inch in length. When the plants reach this stage is the best time for potting those requiring it. Fibrous peat and coarse silver sand form a suitable compost ; one size larger pot will be sufticient. Ram firmly round the sides of the pots with a large label. The house should be kept a little warmer till the plants commence to root in the new soil. Syringe on bright days. Pay special attention at this period to the watering. Succulents —These plants receive even more attention from the amateur than the professional gardener. This is probably due to the ease with which the mjijority can be grown, A little neglect does not affect them so much as it does the general run of plants. Unless in very dry positions they require little water during wirter. Growth is now apparent in the majority, and pottnig required should be attended to. When the specimens are a fair size they will go for several years without potting. Attend carefully to the drainage. A compost of three parts loam and one of broken bricks and mortar rubble will suit most of the plants. Keep the house closer and moist fur a few weeks to start the plants into growth. Syringe morning and afternoon. Camellias.— As these pass cut of flower prune the plants into shape. Those growing planttd out can be top- dressed. Pot-grown plants may be potted if necessary. During the time of flowering the leaves will have got rather dirty, owing to withholding the syringe. Carefully sponge the leaves, and well syringe the plants with insecticide. Encourage growth by keeping the house damp, aLd close early in the afternoon. Give liquid manure to established plants. General Remarks.— Cut back Deutzia gracilis as they pass out of flower and encourage young growths. Repot a few each year. Divide the larger plants if more stock is required. Prune Libonia floribunda and start into growth. Shake off some of the old soil and repot. Insert a few cuttings to work up a young batch of plants. Introduce into a temperature of ab(jut 50'^ some of the Liliums starting into growth in the frames. Where Salvias are grown from seed the young plants will be ready for pricking off" into boxes or small pots. S. splendens, S. azurea grandiflora, and S. farinacea all do well grown in this way. Keep in an intermediate house till growing freely. Some of the annuals sown early for pot woik are ready for pricking off into small pots, six or eight in a pot for such things as Clarkias, Schizanlhus, CuUinsias. &c. Others will be ready for thinning and top-dressing. Thise include Neraesias, Acrocliniuras, and Nigella. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. A. Osborn. FRUIT GARDEN. Planting Vines.— If the borders in which it is intended to plant one year old canes are not made, the work should be done with, ut delay, as the time is near at I and when planting must be done. Opiniuns differ widely as to the size the borders should be at the time of planting. On this point one must be guided to some extent by local conditions. In a narrow vinery the width of border would necessarily be curtailed, and to balance this deficiency it will be necessary to add to the depth. In a full-siztd vinery a border 5 feet wide by -Ih feet deep, with 0 inches of drainage, will be suitable for early and mid-season varieties; but for late sorts 6 inches may be added to the depth. If the subsoil is of such a nature as would cause injury to the roots, it will be prudent to place a layer of about "2 inches of concrete all over the bottom. The drainage may consist of a layer of bi icks placed close together on edge. On this place a layer of half bricks flat, finishing off with a layer of broken brickbats. The soil (which should be the best loam procurable) should be in good woikable condition. Commence by placing a layer of turves grass downwards all over the drainage. Over this throw a good sprinkling of old mortar rubble, wood ashes, and Bentley's Vine Border Compound. The quantity of compound must be determined by the quality of the soil. It is a great mistake to add a lot of artificial manure to soil which is already rich in nutritious n.atter. The soil must be rammed as firmly as possible. This is a very important factor in successful Grape culture. Add further layers of turf, choosing the best for building the outside wall, which should slope a little inwards. Use the same ingredients as before, mixing them thoroughly with the soil by the aid of a fork. Proceed in this manner till within 6 inches, of the surface. The top ti inches of soil should be chopped rather fine to facilitate planting. The best time for planting is just when the Vines are about to break. The roots must be carefully washed out and laid in tiers near the surface of the border. When planting is finished a good watering with a rose-can will settle the soil about the roots. The Vines must be syringed two or three times a day, and the atmosphere kept fairly warm and moist. Avoid too much artificial heat, rather take advantage of sunshine by closing early on flue afternoons. The temperature at night may be about 60«. Outdoor Vines.— Grapes may be grown with a fair amount of success in southern districts, provided they are planted in favourable aspects and suitable varieties are chosen. If the soil i^ of a loauiy character find wtU drained, or in an elevated position, it is only necessary to bieak it up to a depth of 2 feet, adding plenty of old mortar rubiile and wood ashe?. Plant near thn surface aa advised above, and see that the border is made Arm. Suitable varieties for outdoors are Black Hamburgh, Royal Muscadine, and Sweetwater. E. HarRISS. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens^ Windsor. KITCHEN GARDEN. Carrots. — The main sowing of this indispensable root crijp must now be attended to. During a very varied experience in different localities with different soils, it has only unce been my fate to have charge of a garden where the main crop of Carrots could be depei did upon with any degree of certainty. In the garden lefarred to the soil was of a deep peaty and sandy nature. In it routs of splendid quality developed rapidly under most ordinary cultivation. It is a usual practice in many establishments to grow the main crop of Carrots in some field on the home farm, and under this condition I have ntver seen them fail, thus proving that their successful culture in most cases demands a complete change of soil. I find it a good plan to grow Carrots on a plot that has been occupied wiih Goosebei Ties or other small fiuit bushes. These are grubbed out early in autumn, the ground deep'y trenched and laid up roughly to be pulverised by winter's frost and snow. Old lime rubble, soot, and wood ashes (if obtainable) are spread over the surface of the ground early in Maich and allowed to lie there almost till sowing time, then the plot is lightly forked over. Ordinary cow and hoise manure tends to produce foiked roots. When the weather is calm and dry make the surface of the ph»l fine wiih a digging fork, and draw out drills 12 inches or 15 inches apart, according to the varieties intended to be sown ; the drills need not be mure than an inch deep. Sow the seed very thinly to avoid necessity of disturbing the young plants later by thinning. Sutton's Scarlet Iniermediale, Long Red Suirey, and Attrincham are varieties which may be depended upon for ordinary cultivation. Khubarb. — A plantation should at once be made. Rhubarb prefers a light, rich soil, but no fresh manuie should be applied at the time of planting. By excessive manuring some varieties may be made to produce gigantic stalks, but they are never so good in quality as the smaller kinds. When breaking up the roots for planting select good crowns near the outside of the clump, with a few roots attached if possible. Central crowns are never so good for this purpose. Plant the crowns alternately 4 feet apart each way. Cauliflower.— Make a sowing of Cauliflower on a dry warm border when the ground is in order. By sowing Early London, Sutton's Magnum Bonum, and Walcheien the cutting season will be prolorigtd, and they should meet the demand between those already planted and the eaily autumn sorts. Savoys make a welcome change from the ordinary Cabbage, and help to till a gap, if better things are scarce, where they are likely to be appreciated. A pinch of Early Ulm may now be sown ; bemg of dwarf and compact habit it will recommend itself to growers where space is limited. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Manj's Isle, Kirkcudbright. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. A GOOD BEET FOR LATE USE. IN a few gardens Beetroot must be had all the year round, and for our last supply we rely upon Dell's Crimson. This is, as most growers are aware, an old variety well known, but one of the best keepers we have grown, and, though small, it is good, and small or medium Beetroots are always preferable to large and coarse ones. Few, if any, roots are of finer quality or more suitable for the salad-bowl. I am aware even with this vegetable there are poor stocks, but ours — Veitch's Selected — is a perfect root as regards colour and a splendid keeper. We lift rather late, and store just free from frost, using plenty of so 1 or sand between the layers of roots. Treated thus the roots remain sound till the end of May, when the Globe section is ready. By many Dell's Crimson has been grown for yeais as a decorative plant in the flower garden, owing to its deep crimson foliage. We always sow a good breadth for late supplies in well prepared land, and thin early. The sowing is made early in May. Grown thus the roots are quite large enough, and this variety never gives one any trouble in the cooking. This is not the case wiih some of the larger varieties. G. Wythes. WEBB'S SENATOR PEA. Messrs. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stour- bridge, have raised many fine Peas at the Kinver trial grounds, but perhaps one of the best at 182 THE GARDEN. [March 25 1905. A SOW OF WEBB S SENATOR PEA. present in eultivilion is Webb's Senator. This celebrated main crop Pea was selected for a number of years, and is the result of a cross between the varieties Prince of Wales and Calverwell's Giant Marrow, both formerly well known for their excellent cropping qualities. It is a very remarkable cropper, the pods being produced mostly in pairs. They are of £;ood size, and contain on an average nine large Peas, which are exceedingly sweet in flavour. It is of branching habit, grows from 2J feet to 3 feet in height, and has proved to be a most valuable variety, professional, amateur, and market gardeners, having tested it side by side with other varieties, being unanimous in their testimony to its superiority. The merits of Senator have also evidently been recognised by the Royal Horticultural Society, who awarded it a first- class certificate. The crop represented in the photograph was grown at the Kinver trial grounds. A VALUABLE EARLY SUMMEK BEET. Cartrr's Crimsox Ball. There ia no difficulty in having good Beetroot from September and later, but before then the supply is not reliable unless the Turnip-rooted section is grown. One of the beat is undoubtedly Carter's Crimson Ball, which ia a most valuable eirly summer root of excellent quality. O.ie great advantage is that when the seed is sown now it may be had good weeks, if not months, in advance of the long-rooted section. Crimson Bill is the earliest root to mature that I have grown, and, requiring Beet as early as possible for salad and in large quantities, we rely largely upon this sort ; indeed, we force this variety, if the term can be applied, as we sow in boxes in frames, then prick out again, and later on plant oil a warm border or at the foot of a south wall. 1 have also grown the roots in 3inch pots at the start, but this was merely a catch crop for a few early roots. For first crop in the open Crimson BUI is specially good, and well worth a little care at the start. When the seed is sown ia March in rich light soil it pays for shelter, and a later sowing in April will give a summer supply. For the last named a cooler site and a moister border ia more suitable. In shallow soils the Globe Beets are valuable, and here several sowings should be made, but some of the older and later varieties lack colour, and are badly shaped when compared to the Crimson Ball. This one received a first-class certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society. The quality is excellent and the colour good. G. Wythes. STOVE &. GREENHOUSE. WORK IN THE AMATEUR'S GREEN- HOUSE. IMPORTANT work of the hour— if it has not been already done — is to decide upon and to send for the seeds that are to be raised during the coming season. It is a pleasant task to look through some of the lists where we may expect to find offers of seeds of interesting novelties, as well as of older and longer-proven plants. What keen delight of anticipation is aroused when one comes across some coveted seed which hitherto has been beyond one's reach. Seed-raising, however, requires much patience and some skill, and this method of acquiring plants does not appeal to everyone. Those who are content with good displays of Chinese Primulas, Persian Cyclamens, Cinerarias, and Calceolarias, which are all very beautiful, may save themselves a good deal of the initial trouble of sowing and pricking out by buying seedlings of good strains from reliable growers. Tubers of Begonias can also be bought at a very moderate cost. There are many amateurs, however, who are not content with everyday plants, and to these seed-raising forms one of the most magnetic attractions of greenhouse work. It is astonishing how much one learns about plants by raising them from seed, which otherwise would pass unnoticed. To begin with, there is the seed itself, in many cases minute as a grain of sand and seemingly as inert, yet in that microscopic space potentially enclosing the living plant. It is worth while, before committing the contents of any seed packet to the soil, to examine them through a magnifying lens. Infinite variety of form is revealed, often with exquisite moulding and tracery of network, each after its kind. The little brown dot of a common Snapdragon seed will serve as an illustration, though by no means one of the most beautiful. Who would suppose that it is ribbed like a Peach stone and studded with outstanding points? Again, when germina- tion has begun, and this sculptured husk has been cast off, to watch the gradual unfolding of the Cotyledons and the manner of growth of the budding stem and leaves, with all their variations, is an exquisite pleasure to a true lover of plants. And so, through every stage of plant life, new and strange features, if we have but eyes to see them, come under observation which we should certainly miss if we gave up their cultivation to other hands than our own. The choice of greenhouse seeds must depend to a great extent on the accommodation and winter temperature at command. For example, it would be useless to raise climbers unless the house has pillars or rafters suitable for their support, or stove plants when we possess only moderate powers of heating. It seems a trite piece of advice that in choosing seeds we should keep our limitations well in mind, yet one knows from experience that it is not wholly superfluous. It may be useful to name some desirable greenhouse plants of which seed can be obtained, which pre- sent no more than ordinary difficulties of culture. One of the newer plants offered in seed this season is Rehmanniaangulatafrom Central China, which was introduced and exhibited last year by Messrs. Veitch, and of which a beautiful coloured plate appeared in Flora and Sylva in the autumn. It belongs to the same order as the Foxglove, and is perennial. Possibly it might prove hardy in the extreme south-western counties, though it is undoubtedly tender ; but since it makes a fine pot plant for a cool greenhouse, it will probably stand in the forefront of our greenhouse seed-lisl, for the bright rose-coloured spikes of flowers are very ornamental. The sooner it can be sown the better, that it may bloom in late autumn. The Foxglove order gives us many of our most showy flowering plants, such as Angelooia angulata and its white variety, which, though not quite novel, are seldom met with, and are worthy of a trial. Our old friend Celsia Arcturus is as easily grown as a weed from seed, and its bright spikes of clear Mullein-like flowers are never unwelcome. Another Celsia (C. creticus), which is biennial, also makes a handsome pot plant, and is used a good deal in this way at Kew. Though generally hardy enough for the open border in this district, every plant outside has been killed this winter. These are all very distinct plants, and the ordinary observer would scarcely guess at any affinity between them. A good basket plant will be found in Lotus peliorhynchus, which has silvery foliage and scarlet-crimson Pea flowers. Another allied but very different plant, the Shamrock Pea (Paro- chetus communis), with soft, stone-blue flowers and pretty Clover-like leaves, is well worth growing for the same purpose. Tecoma Smilhi is to be found in most seed-lists now, and has clear yellow flowers. Unlike most of its race, it is not a strong climber, but can be grown at about 18 inches high in a (jinch pot. Statices of various species make interesting and desirable greenhouse plants, but seeds of the best-known kinds that are grown under glass are not often offered. S. spathulata, which I raised last year, with rosettes of sea-green leaves and red-jointed stems, is very promising, but its pink flowers are not showing as yet. As a foliage plant, Kochia sooparia, an old-fashioned annual, sometimes called Summer Cj'press, and reintroduced within recent years, is not to be despised. The leaves turn red towards autumn,and the plant is effective and graceful. Some bulbs can be raised with the greatest ease and flower within a reasonable time. Amongst these may be mentioned the pretty little carmine- pink Anomatheoa cruenta, which blooms the same year from the seedling stage, and can be multiplied to any extent by home-saved seed. The charming South African Cyrtanthi — C. MacKeniand C. lutescens and others — are almost as easy to increase in the same way, sowing the seed as soon as it is thoroughly ripe, so that two or three bulbs are a good investment as the nucleus of a good stock. They take little room, and should be grown in some quantity to shuw their true character. Makch 23, 1905. THE GARDEN. 183 The list might be extended indefinitely, but the above are a few of the good greenhouse plants of which we may become possessed if we like to take the trouble to rear them for ourselves. Qtiestling. K. L. D. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Arxawepa.— The Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire as^tanoe, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions shoxild be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London, Letters on business should be sent to the Poblisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When mAtre than one query is sent, each should be on a separate p-^ce of paper. Sowing Seeds {N. O'Xeill). — You may still BOW many hardy annuals, as Antirrhinums, Candy- tuft, Annual Chrysanthemums, Cornflowers, Mignonette, Sweet Peas, Liniuni, Nasturtiums, Virginian Stock, Clarkia, &c. They will be rather late in flowering, but that will be the only dif- ference, providing you only attend to them well, not letting them get dry when young. You may also sow Early Broccoli, Kale, Savoys, Cauli- flower, and Cabbage for autumn supplies. Carrots, Tarnips, Beet, and Parsnips may also be sown ; Cwarf French Beans, Vegetable Marrows (on a hot-bed). Peas, Lettuce, and Radish. Plant Potato Windsor Castle. Cdthng Back Hollies (F. D. S.).— Cut your Hollies back hard, to reduce them to the size you require ; but you will cut away all the foliage and will only have bare stems for a time. If the plants are in good health they will furnish them- selves again to a certain extent within a year. The pruning should be done about the end of April or the beginning of May, just as growth is commencing. You must, however, reduce the height of the plants as well as cut in the sides, or you will find the upper part of the plant will grow at the expense of the base. The sketch of what you propose to do is quite correct, but you should cut the sides of the upper half of the plants in rather hard in proportion to the lower part. A good mulching of manure should be given the plants when they have grown out an inch or two, and one or two good soakings of clean water during dry weather this summer will also be beneficial. Rose Cuttings (Cymro). — Your plan of laying down flat some portions of growth and covering them with soil is a very good one, and Roses will readily root in this way, especially if the soil is gritty. The little plants if carefully transplanted in April, after they have been inserted in the soil some eighteen months, will quickly make serviceable bushes. All such fine-rooted plants need some sandy soil about their roots when transplanting to give them a start. It is a pity you did not put the cuttings under a south or west wall, as then there would have been some chance of flowers this year, but we fear under the east wall the plants will have to struggle for existence. Instead of placing the bucket over the plants as you say you have done, we should advise you to have a small box with a pane of glass in the top. This will shield the little plants from the cutting east winds, and at the same time admit light. Da not attempt to transplant them this year, but wait until April, 1906. Sweet Peas foe Exhibition (V. B. J.). — Your selection is good, but one or two changes may be advantageously made with a view to giving a better general eflfect. Of the two pinks named choose Janet Scott. For Triumph, Flora Norton, Mrs. George Higginson, jun., and Coc- cinnea, substitute Prince of Wales, Duchess of Sutherland, Navy Blue, and Miss H. C. Phil- brick. Presumably you will grow quite twenty- four varieties, as it would be extremely risky to rely upon the precise number of sorts required for exhibition. Taking all things into considera- tion the planting from pots into clumps is preferable to transferring from boxes into rows, but much depends upon the attention given. Mr. Jones of Ruabon grows in rows, and Mr. Malcolm of Duns in clumps. Finer flowers than they produce have nevec been seen, so you see that it is the man and not the manner. Rose Bon Silene (/. S. IF.).— You may not find this Rose in English lists under this name, but it is synonymous with Goubault, which is catalogued by some growers in this country. The variety is one of our oldest Teas, having been introduced some seventy years ago. It is as fragrant as any of this section, and in colour a pretty shade of rosy carmine and salmon. There is a white sport of the variety, but it is not much known. If some of these Tea Roses were revived they would create as much interest as many novelties of the present day. There used to be a most deliciously fragrant variety grown named Mme. de St. Joseph, but, alas ! the newcomers, some of them not half so good, have crowded it out of existence. Bon Silene is much esteemed in the United States. If struck from cuttings, and the plants are cut hard back each year, most charming beds may be formed of this Rose and kindred sorts. Apple Stocks [A. AI.).— Moat certainly the mention of the Quince as a stock for Apples was a slip of the pen. It should have been Paradise. No doubt most readers understood the error. It is one of the interesting facts in relation to the Pyrus family that so few should be capable of intermingling their tissue in such way as to render them capable of sustaining each other. Closely as Apples and Pears seem to be allied, yet they refuse to unite with each other, but the Pear and the Quince will do so with ease. Yet does there seem to be quite as wide a distinction between these trees as between Apple and Pear. This is all the more curious because the Apple and Pear are both of British origin or species, whilst the Paradise stock, Pyrus precox, comes from Russia, and the Quince, Pyrus vulgaris, formerly known as Cydonia vulgaris, comes from Austria. These dwarfing stocks, the Paradise and the Quince, have rendered immense service to fruit culture. Plants for Area with a Northern Aspect BY THE Sea [Cymro). — The shade and nearness to the sea are two serious drawbacks to your desire to have plants there that will flower this summer. We should advise you as the soil is so shallow to procure two large tubs, such as a paraffin cask sawn in half, paint them green, or cover with virgin cork, and then fill with good soil, which you could doubtless obtain at the local florist's. We presume you could make room for such receptacles in the area, as it is useless to attempt to grow anything if you have not some good soil. Put the tub on four bricks, having previously made three or four 1-inch holes in the bottom of the tub. Put about 4 inches or 5 inches of crocks in the bottom of the tub, then fill up with the compost, which should consist of two parts loam, one part well-decayed manure, and one part sand. If from the beach it should be washed first. Into this tub you can now plant whatever you select from the list given. Whatever you select should be pot grown, that is, have a ball of earth attached to the roots. One of the best subjects would be a free-growing Ayrshire or Rambler Rose, such as Dorothy Perkins, F(Slicit(5 Perpetue, or Flora. Procure extra-sized plants from 8-inch pots. Around this plant you could put out some Fuchsias, Geraniums, or Marguerites just for the summer. These should be large plants in .5-inch pots, and just coming into bloom. You would not put out any of the bedding plants until May, but the Rose at once. Oiher good climbing plants for the centre of the tub are Clematis .Jackmani and white Everlasting Pea, and you- could surround these with any bedding plants you preferred. Another good plant for the centre would be Weigela rosea or a Myrtle. Cupressus macrocarpa is a beautiful evergreen shrub that delights in the sea air ; bat it is green foliage only, no blossom. Various Questions (Caversham)— The best time to repot your Aspidistra is the present, just when it begins to make new growth. No, you may leave the flowers. It is diliicult to say how often the plants should be watered, so much depends, upon the size of pot, vigour of plant, heat of room, &c. Remember that the soil must never be allowed to become dry. When it appears to be getting dry, fill the pot to the rim with water twice, and wait before giving any more until it begins to get dry again. Do not give a little and often ; that is bad practice. Probably the leaves will come quite perfect now you have repotted the plant. If the roots of your Ferns are showing through the bottom of the pots, and the pots are small, you should repot them. Now is a good time. Perhaps you gave the others too much water immediately after repotting. Make sure that the plant does not want water while it is in. the smaller pot ; then it will need little until it has rooted in the new soil of the larger pot. You may have given an unsuitable soil. Leaf- soil, peat, and loam in equal proportions, with, plenty of silver sand intermixed, would suit. Yes, we will name the Ferns with pleasure, if you will send us fronds of each. You should not- water the leaves. Give your Roses some more, decayed farmyard manure, just forking it beneath the soil. A soil composed of equal parts of good loam and well-decomposed manure and peat, together with some coarse sand, would grow your Hellebores well, but most of them grow well in ordinary garden soil. Take care that the soil is well drained ; they do not like stagnant moisture. July is the best time to lift and divide the plants. Plants for Small Garden (Mariner). — You do not make it clear which border you mean, or whether you want plants for the border or to train against the wall. However, you say it does not get the sun until about noon. Lilies would do well in such a position. The Orange Lily (Lilium crooeum), L. umbellatum, L. Martagon, L. Hansoni, L. tigrinum, and L. specioaum would suit you. Plant also Anemone japonica (Japanese Anemone), Michaelmas Daisies, Crown Imperial, Nicotiana affinis, Carnations, Delphiniums, Campanula, ffinothera, Flag Irises, Sunflowers, and many more. If your border gets the afternoon and evening sun you will not find any difficulty in growing the best herbaceous perennials and bulbs. Creepers (E. G. L.). — li you want good trailing plants that will last in flower a long time. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums would probably suit you as well as anything. Among annuals you might grow the crimson or white Virginian Stock and Candytuft, although the former do not remain in flower throughout a long season. Some of the improved dwarf Nasturtiums are very attractive. Siponaria oalabrica (pink) and variety Scarlet Queen would be useful. Asperula azurea setosa. Campanula altica, and C. a. alba would also suit you. As we said bafore, we should recommend Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. Fruit Queries (R. A'.).— Peach Baron Dufuur is described by Simon-Louis of Metz as large, highly coloured, of first-rate quality ; in season at the end of August. It is a good grower and a prolific bearer. Introduced to commerce in 1872. It is synonymous with Grospe Madeleine de Metz. Puurpr^d Hative (Early Purple) is a synonym of Grosse Mignonne. This is described 18t THE GARDRN. MAi:cn '-5, ]905. ill •• Tub i'luii Uaideu " aa colour, pale primrose, wilh bright rosy cheek ; flesh juicy, entirely pale primrose ; flavour, brisk and rich. We have never grown Baron Dufour, but Grosse Mignonne (Pourprei Hative) can be recommended. The long rod system of pruning Vines consists in leaving a number of young shoots or rods to form the bearing shoots, and it is more suitable for some varieties than the spur system ; for instance, Duke of Buccleuch, Gros Guillaume, and Golden Champion. Spur pruning is to be recommended with most. It is only in the case of shy bearing sorts that the long rod method is practised. Plant 4 feet apart. Plants fop. North Aspect {Mariner) —la the position you name bulbs, such as Scillas, Crocuses, Snowdrops, and Daffodils, would grow. Plant Periwinkle, Asperula {Woodruff), Lilies of the Valley, Day Lily, Anemone japonica, Hepatica, Arabis albida fi.-pl., and Myosotis. Espalier Fruit Trees {Old Suh-icriher).— Plant the Cherries, Victoria Plum, and Poars against the wall. You ought to have a south or a°west wall for the other Plums ; the Apples would do well as espiliers, and the Damson should be in the open also. Gooseberries {B. T. 0 ).— We do not recog- nise some of the varieties you mention, but we have answered your question so far as we are able. Green Gascoyne, an excellent variety, dessert ; Warrington, good for late supply on walls in shaded spots, dessert ; Lxncashire Lad, a great favourite for market, both green and ripe, cooking ; Whinham's Industry, cooking ; C 'oquering Hero, cooking ; Roaring Lion, conking; Speedwell, cooking ; Marigold, cooking; and Taifourd, cooking. Chkysanthemom Shelter (Mrs. R.). — To flower Chrysanthemums well they need to be grown during the summer where the sun and air have full play around them, hence the spot suggested is by no means an ideal one. Still, they should do fairly well if they are not so close to the wall that light and airare obstructed. From your note we are not quite certain whether the question refers only to the plants being taken under the wall for shelter in the autumn just prior to taking them into the greenhouse. If so, the eastern position is the worst, as in the event of an early autumnal frost the morning's fun shining full on them will do far more damage than if the plants had been shaded therefrom till the temperature had risen. Peat Moss Litter Manure [C. L.) —Those who have to use this manure esteem it highly, but strongly advise that it be well prepared for u»e beforehand by throwing it into a heap, and occasionally turning it as it heats. In that way, whilst parting with much of its acidity, it is also belter fitted lo act as food for crops. As the primary obji^cl of the moss litter as bedding fur horses is to absorb urine, it contains necessarily a much larger proportion of uric acid than straw manure does, hence the need for treating it as advised before it is applied to the ground. In turning it liberal dustings of soot will do much good. Assuming that it really was the applica- tion of this manure as a mulch to your Sweet Peas that caused some plants to be diseased — and there ie no absolute proof that such was the case — still admitting that it may have been so, possibly the manure was applied in a raw state or too thickly. After all, the disease or weakness seen in j'our Pea plants may have been due to some weakness in the seeds, possibly saved f om partially diseased plants. Ii is =o unsafe to take anything for grantel until ample proof has bjen furnished. With respect to the peat moss litter manure on a fairly stiff soil 3 feet in depth we should not think it could possibly prove injurious, especially if well prepared as advised. But the primary material, moss litter, is some- what longer in decxying than straw, especially ehort half-decomposed straw, as all such manures should be w lieu applied to the ground. It may be worth your while, however, in manuring for your chief flowers — Roses, Carnations, and Sweet Peas— to vary the dressings yearly, vising the moss litter manure one year and a liberal applica- tion of phosphate and potassic artificial manures the next, with thin mulchings of sweetened moss litter manure on the surface. Use wood ashes freely with all these flowers. SiiRnBBERY (.1/. W.) —The position you men- tion is not conducive to good plant growth. You should try Euonymus radicans, Ivy, Berberis Mahonia (this is not creeping), Periwinkle, Cotoneaster microphylla, and Gaultheria Shallon. Propagatisg Hardy Chinese and Japanese Azaleas (J/. £».).— These are propagated by seeds if they are obtainable, and, failing these, cuttings or by layering are the methods em- ployed. The finer named varieties are usually grafted on stocks of AzUea pontica or A. indica, but layering is a quick and easy method of ncreasing any particular form it is desired to Salt for Asparagus plumosus [Sarum). — Though salt is a valuable manure for the culinary Asparagus, which often occurs in a state of Nature near the seashore, it is quite nnsuitable for Asparagus plumosus, that grows naturally under totally different conditions. If Asparagus plu- mosus needs a stimulant, there is nothing better than a mixture of weak liquid manure and soot water, given once a fortnight during the growing season. The various concentrated manures, which owing to their cleanly nature are now so much used, are all beneficial to this Asparagus. One caution, however, is that, as the different kinds vary in strength, the instructions supplied with the particular kind used must be carefully followed. Outdoor Fbrxery (ff. S ).— Assuming that the expression " common hardy Ferns" applies only to normal forms, it is impracticable to sub- divide an outdoor fernery into sections, showing the characteristic Ferns of separate districts, since the species are too generally distributed to permit of it. The Ferns of Devon and Cornwall, the Lake Districts, Wales, and Ireland, are common to all, and only vary in quantity, so that it should be out of the question to allocate any as exclusively characteristic of one locality. If, however, the varieties, i.e., the wild sports which have been found, and their subsequent off- spring on improved lines, were in question, then undoubtedly local groups might be made, and to this end we cannot do better than refer to the " Book of British Ferns," published by Newnes, in which these are described, together with the localities where found, and most of which could be acquired either from Messrs. Stansfield or Messrs. Birkenhead, both of Sale, near Man- chester. Growing the H^manthus (M. E. i? ).— As the different species composing the genus H;eman- thus occur in a state of nature from Cape Colony to the tropical portion of Africa, it is evident that no hard and fast line as to the culture applicable to the whole of them can be laid down. Some which are natives of the southernmost portion of the continent may be grown in an ordinary greenhouse ; others from Natal do best with a little more warmth, say a minimum winter temperature of .50°, while those from tropical Africa need the temperature of a stove, and even then they are somewhat difficult of cultivation. Of the greenhouse kinds, far and away the most generally met with, and certainly the finest, is Ha^manthus coccineus, which needs a soil com- posed principally of good loam, lightened vphen necessary by some leaf-mould and sand. They will stand for years without repotting, and flower best when absolutely pot-bound. This species and its near ally, the white-fl iwered H. albiflos, may be kept in an ordinary sunny greenhouse, except for about two months, usually June and July, when the leaves fade and the bulbs require a rest. This is effected by placing the plants in a sunny frame and keeping them quite dry till the flowers show through the tops of the bulbs, when they are returned to the greenhouse, well soaked, and given occasional doses of liquid manure. The flowers are usually borne towards the latter part of August or in September, and after they are faded the plants must be kept well supplied with water, until, as above stated, the leaves die down in June or thereabouts. Those from Natal, of which H. Katherins is the best, need a somewhat higher temperature, that is, a minimum of 50", and a warm house in early spring when making their growth. Such as H. cinnabarinus, H. Kalbreyeri, H. raultiflorus, and others do best in a stove temperature, but in the case of all of them much the same treat- ment with regard to soil, periods of rest and growth, &c. , muit be observed. Cu?S^^ARK^lT':.\o*NToNrsl MOTOR LA\\'N MOWEKS ^L^1>1•; IN VAKIOllS SIZES. Please write for ILLUSTRATBD PRICE LIST, No. a, FREE. GARDEN mk No 1741.— Vol. LXVII. Apkil 1, 1905. IN DEFENCE OF THE BIRDS. WITH many gardeners the preservation of birds — at any rate, of some of the most destructive of them — is a burning question, and ■where gardens are surrounded by vfoodlands, as many country gardens are, the damage done by birds to sprouting seeds and to fruit crops is a very real grievance. We are glad that Mr. E. Kaye Kobinson is inclined to take up a brief on behalf of the bullfinch ; but it has a familiar name of ill-omen in the northern counties, budfinch to wit, colloquially pronounced " boodfinch," which has probably been softened in the south into bullfinch, and circumstantial evidence, we fear, is strongly against its mischievous propensities. We seem to remember in " Wood and Garden," a book which finds an honoured place in most libraries, an account of Cherry trees— not old and decrepit, but young and vigorous — being so persistently harassed every spring by bullfinches that, after long patience, they had to make way for something more profitable. It is useless to try to disguise the fact that, besides bud- eating birds, greenfinches and sparrows amongst the seed-beds, and ,iays, blackbirds, and tits amongst the Peas and fruit trees, do take very considerable toll from garden crops. Yet there is another side to the subject. An ancient Hebrew saying runs thus : " All things are double one against another, and God hath made nothing imperfect One thing establisheth the good of another." Good and ill often seem to go hand in hand in this lower world, yet in the end they work out, both together, that which is wholly good. If birds are depredators to some extent, much more are they our benefactors. The destruction of crops of all kinds by insect pests in countries where all birds, however small, are reckoned as " game " is incalculable, and hardly to be stemmed by legislation. Even in English gardens, where a too-elaborate system of wire-covering has been adopted, preventing altogether the intrusion of birds to the fruit quarters, the crops have been well nigh ruined by a plague of grubs and caterpillars. Now a single pair of tits has been known, between dawn and dark, to make more than 400 journeys with food for their nestlings, and as these are fed exclusively with what we term blight of various sorts, it is easy to understand the clearance that is made of such gentry by these busy little workers. But putting aside the question of profit and loss, how much of the pleasure of our gardens depends upon bird life? Against their pretty ways and tuneful notes, to say nothing of their positive usefulness, the petty delinquencies of which they may be justly accused, and which may mostly be guarded against, weigh light as one of their own feathers. Still, for the consolation of aggrieved gar- deners, we may perhaps be allowed to whisper the opinion of the late Lord Lilford— himself an ardent lover and student of birds— that overmuch protection was actually inimical to the preservation of healthy bird life. The difi'erence, however, is enormous between over-stocking a locality and depopulating it altogether of its feathered tribes. As much as possible, therefore, let us spare and cherish the birds. THE LILIES. (Continued.) L ILIUM PENDULIFLOEUM. — See canadense. L. philadelphicum (L.). — The Canadian whorl-leaved Lily. A ^ pretty cup-flowered species widely spread throughout the northern United States in open woods. It has long been known to cultivation. The bulbs are very small, and the stems 1 foot to 2 feet high, green, very slender, and rooting freely from their bases; the leaves small, in three to four verticils. The flowers are one to three, cup- shaped, as in bulbiferum, light red, the petals narrow, low down, and copiously dotted with yellow zoned, purple spots. It resembles canadense in its leaves and elegans in its ftowers. The perianth is thin and starry in outline, owing to the long claw of the petals. A very dainty species, refined in its colour scheme. Easy to grow. This pretty Lily requires a cool and moist site, and enjoys a place where the treatment is considered good for Cypripediums, Trilliums, and kindred plants. It prefers spongy peat or leaf- soil, and though its bulbs do not require to be kept in a wet state, the roots should have ready access to water. It is hopeless to attempt to grow it in an ordinary border, or in pots, for more than one season. i L. Philippinense. — The Philippine long- tubed Lily. A close ally of the Japanese L. Jongiflorum, and remarkable for its slender stature and very long-tubed flowers. The bulbs are small, white, resembling longi- florum ; the stems 1 foot to 2 feet high, very slender, and rooting freely from their bases ; the leaves very narrow, recurved, pale green, and 6 inches long. The flowers are solitary, rarely two or three, each 8 inches long, poised horizontally, the extreme tips only reflexing ; the tube under 1 inch in width near the mouth, pure white throughout ; fragrant. A rather remarkable longiflorum, with flowers which in a wild state are often longer than the stems. Rare in cultivation. Flowers in June. It grows on grassy slopes, at high elevations, on the Island of Luzon. This Lily is not hardy, and will only succeed in a warm greenhouse temperature. One can grow it well under treatment considered good for greenhouse Begonias of the Gloire de Lorraine section. It is a very beautiful Lily, unfortunately very rare, and appa- rently difficult to import in a sound con- dition. It is a very beautiful pot plant, and the most fascinating of all the loDgi- florum group. L. poU/phyllum (D. Don). — The many- leaved Himalayan Lily. A rare species, its flowers being midway in shape between those of L. longiflorum and L. Martagon. The bulb is small, white, resembling that of tenuifolium, the scales jointed ; the stems 2 feet to 3 feet long, very slender, rooting freely from their bases ; the leaves scattered, narrowly lance-shaped, and very numerous. The flowers in a lax spike of four to ten, coloured pale cream internally, greyish green externally, the inside of the tube heavily dotted with mauve. The tubes, always con- tracted at the middle, are somewhat inflated at the junction with the flower-stems, giving the buds the shape of soda water bottles. Very fragrant. Hare in cultivation. Flowers in July — August. Inhabits the temperate regions of the westernmost Himalayas, the mountains of Thibet, and Southern China, occurring at elevations of 6,000 feet to 8,000 feet. It grows in rich vegetable deposit amid shrubs, but never gregariously and in quantity. Bulbs of this Lily are very difii- cult to import in good condition, so that it should be raised from seeds. These should be sown in a cool frame as soon as they are obtainable, using leaf-soil and loam as a. seed-bed, covering the site with tiles to prevent evaporation and ensure rapid germi- nation, removing these as the seedlings appear. The plants should be removed to a. warm border to flower or allowed to remain in the seed-beds— the better way. G. B. Mallett. (To be continued.) 186 THE GARDEN. [April , 1905. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. APRIL. FEUIT TREES IN POTS. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Ttiird Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourtli Prize of HA.LF-A-GUINEA will be given for the best ans'wers to the questions published below. This competition is open to all professional gardeners. Replies must be addressed to the Editor of The Garden, .3—5, Southampton Street, Strand, London, W.C, marked "Com- petition," and must reach this office not later than May 1. I. — Do you consider annual repotting to be beneficial to fruit trees in pots or not? II. — When should fruit trees in pots (not hard forced) be repotted? Give the ingredients of what vou would consider to be an ideal soil. What is liliely to occur after potting if proper precautions are not taken ? III. — When would you prune Peach and Nectarine trees in pots ; describe the method you would adopt. IV. — What is the average life of a pot fruit tree when properly grown ? Complaints are often made that pot fruit trees quickly deteriorate. Why is this ? Describe the best method of restoring the trees to health. v. — Give the best six varieties for pot culture of Peaches, Plums, and Cherries, and the best three varieties of Figs and Nectarines. Say which you consider to be the best one in each case. VI. — In order to have pot-grown fruits of Cherries, Plums, Peaches, and Figs ripe by the middle of May, say when you would start the trees, and give the tem- peratures for each fortnight until the fruits are ripe. VII. — What is the best chemical manure for Cherries, Plums, and Peaches ? (Special concentrated manures must not be men- tioned.) Say why it is the best. VIII. — What is the proper treatment for trees after forcing ? PRIZES OPEN TO ALL Plan of a Flower Border. A FIRST PRIZE of Five Guineas and a second prize of Tiuo Guineas are offered for the best plan of a border of hardy jjerennials, 130 feet long by 10 feet wide, drawn to a scale of a quarter of an inch to a foot; bold grouping and good arrangement for colour and succession to be the main considerations. Half-hardy annuals and biennials may be included. The names of the plants to be written in their spaces on the plan — not referred to by letter or number. This competition remains open until the last day in September. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. April 3. — Mansfield Horticultural Show. April 6. — Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland's Show at Dublin. April 11. — Royal Horticultural Society's meeting. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Spring and its flowers.— Spring has assuredlj' arrived. In the grass Narcissus, Scillas, Chionodoxas, Grape Hyacinths, and Violets are blooming in profusion. In the borders Primroses, Violas, and Walldowers are making quite a show, whilst amongst the flowering siirubs can be counted Cydonias, Prunus Pissardi, and Ribes. Foraythia suspensa will be in flower in a few days. — E. H., Broaditairs. The Henry Eekford Testimo- nial—A Shilling' Fund.— A committee meeting to launch this estimable project was held at the Hotel Windsor on Monday, the ^Oth ull. , Mr. Percy Waterer presiding. It was resolved that the fund should be a shilling one, so as to embrace not only the large growers, but also those whose appreciation of the work of Henry Eekford is none the less sincere because it is expressed in a modest way. It was further decided that the horticultural Press be requested to co-operate in a practical manner by publishing a weekly list of subscribers, which will be fur- nished by the secretary. Mr. Percy Waterer was unanimously elected chairman, Mr. Walter P. Wright treasurer, and Mr. Horace J. Wright, 3^, Dault Road, Wandsworth, London, to whom all correspondence should be addressed, secretary. The subscriptions promised and received to date are as follows : Messrs. Sutton and Sons and Robert Sydenham, each 4'23. ; Dobbie and Co. and Percj Waterer, each 21s. ; J. Wright, V.M.H., Richard Dean, V.M.H., H. J. R. Digges, R. P. BrotherstoQ, E. T. Cook, and W. P. Wright, each lOs. 61.; C. W. Greenwood, E. F. Hawes, Chas. H. Curtis, J. Harrison Dick, G. H. Mackereth, each Ss. ; Dr. Douglas L. Freeland, 23. 6d. ; and Mr. W. C. Pagram, Is. As early as possible a circular setting forth the aims of the promotors, with a subscription form attached, will be widely distributed. In the meantime, the secretary will be pleased to hear from those who sympathise with the movement of conveying to Mr. Henry Eekford the thanks of the horticultural world for his work in the improvement of the Sweet Pea. The North Lonsdale Rose Society, at their annual meeting on Friday, the 17th ult. , decided to offer a twenty-five guinea trophy in memory of their late chairman James Hodgson, Esq., .J. P., CO., as by his energies the society has been in a great measure raised to its present position. The trophy is for twelve vases of exhibition Roses, seven of each bloom. The society hope there will be keen competition. There will be cash prizes in con- nexion with the class. Although the society lost €120 on their last exhibition, many new classes were added to the schedule, one for floral table decoration, another for bunches of garden and decorative Roses, and over a dozen classes were added to the Sweet Pea section. The National Sweet Pea Society have kindly offered a classifica- tion class with prizes value £3 3s. and a silver medal. The society award as a prize open to all the most valuable trophy in the Sweet Pea world, viz., the J. Towers Settle Twenty-five Guinea Challenge Bowl. This, too, has cash prizes in connexion with it. The date is Friday, July 14, 1905. His Majesty's band of the Irish Guards is engaged to play. Old- World Gardens.— In the Dowdes- well Galleries, New Bond Street, Mr. E. Arthur Rowe has brought together another interesting series of old-world gardens. In this collection some really beautiful gardens in Scotland are particularly noticeable, and we are shown once more here, as well as in England, every form of quaint old hedges of Yew and terrace walks, with here and there a shimmer of brilliant blue, the plumage of the peacock. The first picture we come to, " The Terrace, Drummond Castle " (No. 1), shows particularly well how Mr. Rowe manages to impress one with the air of serene quiet which pervades these old gardens. At Drummond Castle two other particularly good paintings are "The Green Walk, Drummond Castle (No. .5) and "A Summer's Afternoon" (No. 04). "Birncluith" has afforded Mr. Rowe many opportunities. In "The Yew Walk" (No. 43), the colouring is very tender, the sun just faintly lighting the paths. Another good painting, bright and sunny in effect this time, is "The iliddle Terrace, Birncluith" (No. 62), and yet another small but charming study of the same place is "On the Lower Terrace" (No. 99), just faintly flecked with sunlight. There are many beautiful paintings of Crathes, specially good being the "Herbaceous Border, Crathes" (No. 22), "Crathes: A Walk Between High- Clipped Hedges" (No. 26), "The Garden Gate" (No. 91), a peacock in this last striking a brilliant note of blue, and "Afternoon, Crathes" (No. 101), quite a small study, but one of the best in the whole exhibition. We noticed, among other gardens, "An Old Manor House" (No. 50), a delightful old building with a bush clipped into the semblance of a bird, mounting guard, at the doorway ; " Brantwood, Surbiton " (No. 59), with its bewildering array of Rose arches ; a sunny picture of "Great Tangley Manor" (No. 65); flowers running riot in "The Flower Garden, Cleave Prior Manor" (No. 89) ; and "The Long Walk, Castle Ashby" (No. 69), very quiet and tender in colour. Hampton Court is well repre- sented. No. 77 being quite an important work, with a brilliant mass of colour in the fore- ground, others of the same place specially noteworthy being "Late Afternoon" (No. 17) and "The Herbaceous Border, Hampton Court" (No. 49). Portrait of the King for Belfast. A curious mistake has arisen in the paragraph which appeared in The Gardex, March 4. It is there stated that Mr. Harold Speed, the eminpnt artist who has painted the portrait of His Majesty, is a son of the late Mr. Edward Speed, "a well-known gardener of Matlock Bath, Derbyshire, who was brother of the late Mr. Speed of Chatsworth." This in entirely incorrect. Mr. Edward Speed, A.R.I.B.A., is a well-known architect and surveyor in Chancery Lane and Streatham, and his son is practically a Londoner. We apologise for the mistake. Lecture on Potato culture.— On October 4, 1904, Mr. T. A. Scarlett, Market Street, Edinburgh, read a paper before the Scottish Horticultural Association on " Potatoes.' It has now been published in pamphlet form, and makes most instructive reading. Writing of manures, Mr. Scarlett says : " The best artificial manure for growing quality Potatoes in con- junction with rich garden soil containing a proper proportion of Time I should call organic potash. Inorganic potash is the usual way in which potash, both sulphate and muriate, is applied. The cheapest form of potash is the crude form kainit, which contains a proportion of salt. Experiments point to the salt in kainit, or any salt, being detrimental to the quality in Potatoes, especially if applied at planting time. . . . The organic potash, or what I call organic potash, is just the residue of all weeds and rubbish burned. This sprinkled in the drills has given astonishing results in quantity and quality, but especially in quality." Preface, tables, and instructive letters are contributed by Mr. Saxby, Leominster. 'Winter-blooniing' Pelargoniums. In no private garden can there be seen in mid- winter a more beautiful display of zonal Pelar- goniums in flower than Mr. Salter has at Woodhatch, Reigate. His collection comprises about thirty varieties and about 100 plants. It is, indeed, a striking sight to enter a house full of these lovely flowers in the dull season of the year, and find such a wealth of colour and beauty. When at Woodhatch on the 10th inst. I found in a propagating house small pots, each filled with cuttings, some 250 in all, taken from the plants that had been out down at the end of April 1, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 187 February, as is the rule each year, the house being then wanted for herbaceous Calceolarias. These cuttings soon root, then are shifted singly into 3-inch pots, from those later direct into 6-inch pots, in which they remain during summer, and bloom so profusely all the winter. When well rooted in their flowering pots, being kept freely pinched, they are stood outdoors on an ash floor in full sunshine, where the wood hardens, and are taken in at Michaelmas. They then bloom in rich profusion for fully five months. — A. D. Dafiodils disappearing. — "North Cotswold's" bulbs may be affected, as many of mine were some years ago, by the grub of the Narcissus fly. The bulbs if taken up in autumn have no roots, and appear to be rotten. On cut- ting them in two or squeezing them a good-sized white grub is found. This grub turns into a chrysalis in June, or late in May becomes a two- winged fly, rather like a small bumble-bee, which lays eggs on the leaves of Daffodils. These become grubs, and live in the bulb until the flies hatch out. I killed eighteen last summer with a butterrty net ; the year before I killed twenty- seven. They are easily seen and heard, as thej' make an unusual sound when flying. Catching the flies in a net and taking up and examining the bulbs in autumn are the only means to cure this pest, and it takes years. — E. W . , Stachallan, Navan, County Meath. TWENTIETH SWEET CENTURY PEAS. VISITORS to flower shows cannot fail to have noticed how popular and how numerous are exhibits of Sweet Peas. For ordinary garden and decorative purposes also this flower is a great favourite ; indeed , I believe it to be an established fact that with both peer and peasant the Sweet Pea is the most popular of all annuals. This can be attributed to several reasons. Its ease of culture, its freeness in blooming, and its great beauty appeal to all. I think, however, that much of its popularity is due to the fact that such vast strides are being made in improving it. Of other florists' flowers we are constantly receiving novelties, but no flower is being so rapidly improved as is the Sweet Pea. If we take the tiwelve finest varieties we find that five-sixths have been introduced during the present century. We may say, then, that to study twentieth century Sweet Peas is to study the best Sweet Peas. If we look to the source of these novelties our «"ve3 must turn towards Wem, where Henry Eekford so skilfully directs his energy to the beautifying of the world's gardens. Almost all our finest Sweet Peas hail from the grounds of this veteran. Indeed, although a few good varieties have come from other sources, yet the great excellence of those raised by Mr. Eekford is so pronounced that even amongst trade rivals he is acknowledged to be the Sweet Pea king. It is my intention to make a few remarks about those varieties which have been introduced from the year 1901 onwards. The set of novel- ties distributed in 1901 has become very popular. The variety Miss Willniott is too well known to invite much comment. There is Qo larger Sweet Pea, and its lovely deep orange- pink colour and fine shape make it one of the most beautiful. For exhibition this is the most popular of all varieties. The Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon is also a great favourite. Besides being the largest, it is also the nearest approach to yellow of all the cream Sweet Peas. Coccinea has not been grown so much as have the two aforementioned varieties. This is due to the fact that its size is only moderate. I think, however, that all deficiencies in this respect are amply covered by its other virtues. Its shape is almost faultless, and its substance is excellent. la its colour, however, lies its great merit, for it is the first and only cerise Sweet Pea. I may .say that its habit, although vigorous, is also dwarf. Knowing the tallness of modern varie- ties, one may consider this to be a great point in its favour. Judging from the fact that no other Sweet Pea is anything like it in colour, one may safely prophesy that as a seed parent it will play an important part in the further improvement of the Sweet Pea. Meanwhile we must make the most of Coccinea itself, for it deserves far greater popularity than it j'et enjoys. Although not comparable with the other three varieties, George Gordon and Lady M. Ormsbj'-Gore are also fine flowers. In 1902, Jeanie Gordon, Lord Rosebery, and Gracie Greenwood were distributed. The former is very beautiful, and is considered to be the best bicoloured Sweet Pea. The shade of rose displayed in its wings is very beautiful, and the size of its flowers and the vigour of its growth make it a very desirable variety. Lord Rosebery is a fine shade of rose, and is almost a self. These merits, combined with its great size and good constitution, make it a serious rival to Prince of Wales. Gracie Greenwood is a very taking mixture of cream and soft rosy pink. The novelties distributed in 1903 were a splendid set. Dorothy Eekford is the finest of all whiles, excelling all rivals in size and purity. Its shape is very good, its growth is strong, and it bears a large quantity of blooms, set three and four on long stout stems. This variety is one of the very finest of all. The same may be said of King Edward VII., the magnificent giant crimson. In shape, size, colour, and, in fact, in all good qualities this Sweet Pea excels. Mrs. Walter Wright is also a giant, its hooded standard gives it a very pleasing effect, and its colour is also beautiful. It may best be described as mauve, but various shades of blue are to be found in it. It may be interesting to note that its colour, when the flower has been open for a few hours, deepens. Personally, Iprefer the beautiful shade it assumes when only just open. Agnes Johnston is rose-pink, with cream wings ; it is a very pretty flower. The year 1904 saw the distribution of Scarlet Gem. This flower had been so highly spoken of that its partial failure during last year's dry summer was disappointing. In the cooler and moister parts of the country, however, it was seen to great advantage, and the blossoms shown by some Scottish growers prove it to be worthy to rank with the very best. Although its colour is so brilliant it will probably never become very popular, for it will be displaced by some variety less liable to be scorched. Marchioness of Cholmondeley is a valuable addition to the creamy pink section, its great size placing it well above its rivals. Mrs. Knights Smith is a large and beautiful pink flower, but the intro- duction of Bolton's Pink, Gladys Unwin, and Countess Spencer will cause its cultivation to become less general than would otherwise be the case. This year we are favoured by the distribution of three very fine varieties. Pride of place must be given to Romolo Piazzani, a great advance in the blue section. Undoubtedly this will be widely grown, for an improvement on existing blue Sweet Peas has for a long time been greatly needed. For this year's exhibitions this variety will be almost indispensable. Black Knight is so well known and so much admired that an improved form of it will be very welcome. Such is Black Michael said to be. I do not think that it has yet been shown in London, but as its raiser, Mr. Eekford, speaks highly of it, we can assume that it is a very desirable varietv. This latter remark also applies to David R. William- son, the new indigo blue Sweet Pea ; this should prove very useful, both for exhibition and for ordinary decorative purposes. The varieties I have hitherto mentioned are already on the market, but, if we may be allowed to anticipate, a word or two might be said of some of the newer varieties. At the 1904 show of the National Sweet Pea Society a new Pea, Henry Eekford, was shown by the gentleman bearing that name. Words with which to describe it almost fail one. Suffice it if I say that it is a great advance towards that desideratum of all lovers of the Sweet Pea — a yellow variety — and that advance is not from the cream, but from the orange- coloured group. In the same show a variety exhibited as Monarch Improved was much admired. This name describes it very well, and the improvement is great. Queen Alexandra is a Sweet Pea which few Londoners have had the privilege of seeing. That it is an excellent variety will be understood when I say that it resembles Scarlet Gem, except that the imper- fections of that variety have been eradicated. Hitherto I have only considered those varieties which have been introduced bj- Mr. Eekford. It is true that they include nearly all the advances in colour, and in fact that gentleman has raised at least three-quarters of the finest new Sweet Peas. There are, however, several recent intro- ductions which have been raised by other growers. The most famous, perhaps, are the sensational sports from Prima Donna. This varietv sported in the collections of several cultivators. Mr. Cole, gardener to Earl Spencer, fixed his sport and named it Countess Spencer. This variety has itself proved very fickle, and instead of remaining the deep pink it was originally, it has now developed various shades, including deep pink, light pink, orange, and rose. Sports from Prima Donna occurred also in the grounds of Mr. Henry Eekford, and in those of Mr. Unwin of Histon. The latter named his variety Gladys Unwin, and it is said to be perfectly fixed. Bolton's Pink, from Mr. R. Bolton of Warton, Carnforth, is another excellent novelty. Its great size and beautiful colour and shape will probably cause it to become one of the most popular of all Sweet Peas. Jessie Cuthbertson and Florence Molyneux are good striped or flaked varieties, and both have been raised by the same firm, Dobbie and Co. America has given us several recent novelties ; Janet Scott and Dainty are among the finest. The former is a beautiful pink flower, but there are so many varieties of this colour that I do not suppose that it will ever become very popular. Dainty is listed as a Picotee edged variety, but last year, in the writer's garden, it flowered white with pink stains and flushes. In other gardens also I believe that it was rather a disappointment. Golden Rose, too, although highly spoken of, was not seen to great advantage. In my grounds, and in those of most other growers, it flowered as a moderately coloured cream, with a few traces of light pink. Mrs. Higginson, jun.. Flora Norton, and Miss Philbrick are all distinct advances in colour, but their moderate size will not allow them to take high positions in the Sweet Pea world. I believe, however, that as light blue varieties are needed they may prove valuable for crossing with larger sorts. There are many other novelties in Sweet Peas, but I think that I have named all the best. Perhaps Lady Aberdare will prove a good sort ; I have not yet, however, seen it. Mr. Breadmore, its raiser, speaks well of it, and as he has been so successful as a grower he should be a capable judge. Before I conclude I think that I ought to mention the names of a few older varieties which still hold their own — America, Prince of Wales, Lady Grizel Hamilton (still the finest lavender Sweet Pea), Black Knight, Othello, Triumph, and Prince Edward of York are all very fine. Navy Blue, Duke of Westminster, Duchess of Sutherland, Gorgeous, Lottie Eekford, Princess of Wales, and Salopian are excellent. We trust, however, that those which have not yet been improved upon will soon be surpassed, for, greatly as we love many of these old friends, we must not be slow to recognise the value of real improvements upon them; indeed, "Progress" must always be the watchword of Sweet Pea lovers. G. F. Dray.son. 188 THE GARDEN. [ApiiiL 1, 1905. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note \vill accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub, Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, W.C. Violet Mme. Pethers. From Charles Hill, Farnham, the Hon. Miss Dundas sends flowers of a Violet called Mme. Pethers. They are a good blue, and double. Miss Dundas writes : " Some years ago a friend of mine, was travelling on the Continent, and purchased a small pot of Violets from a nursery of which Mme. Pethers was the proprietress. Mme. Pethers said it was an improved strain of the old Neapolitan, but gave no name with it. Hence we named it Mme. Pethers." (Mr. Watson's letter is dated March :i). My experience is that spring Onions have been a complete failure for years. I now raise them in boxes under glass and with excellent results. Sow in gentle heat about the second week in February, using spent Mushroom-bed manure as a drainage, with a covering of turf or loam. As soon as the young plants are about 1 inch high remove them to a cold frame until they are thoroughly hardened off. I transplant from the seed boxes to the permanent quarters about the middle of April usually to a place that has been occupied with Celery. Onions sown on the same ground as those planted from the boxes were a complete failure, thus showing the wisdom of raising the seed under glass. I harvested last October about I'iO stone of Onions that were raised in boxes under glass. This variety keeps well until the late spring." Persian Cyclamen Flowers. Messrs. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stour- bridge, send flowers of their beautiful strain of Persian Cyclamen, the colours clear and pure. The most charming were Mont Blanc, a flower of much substance, white, with crimson base ; Rose Queen, rose ; and Vesuvius, crimson. Iris histrioides major. Mr. Brown sends flowers of this beautiful Iris, with the following note: "A few flowers of Iris histrioides major for your table. I was much interested in reading the note about it by Mr. G. Reuthe in The Garden. They have now been out for ten days and are very hardy, in- creasing fast, and growing readily from seed ; in fact, I find these Irises among the best of early spring flowers." Violets and Spring Flowers. A delightful contribution of flowers comes from Miss Stuart, Wootton House, near Boar's Hill, Oxford. The Violets filled the room with their fragrance, and we noticed amongst other things the Winter Heath (Erica carnea), Hepati- cas, particularly the double blue, and the Lenten Roses. We thank our correspondent heartily for so welcome a gathering of the sweetest of spring flowers — the Violet. With the flowers came the following note: "I have just been getting you some Violets from the garden and a few odd- ments, all from the open, I need hardly say, I feel sure, they will be appreciated on 'The Table.' It is so delightful to have fragrant Violets, after those I saw a few days ago in London. Of course, I know the Hepaticas are ' going off,' with the exception of the double blue, but I send them as they look so spring-like. The Hellebore stalks I have scraped on purpose, BO that they may last a few days in water, the best way of preserving them." Veitch's Brown Globe Onion. At a time when so much is heard of the Onion crop and its importance in the economy of the kitchen, it is pleasant to receive splendid samples from Mr. J. G. Watson, Dilhorne Hall Gardens, as clean and firm as any we have seen of this excel- lent variety. Our correspondent also kindly sends the following instructive note: "The Onions I send are the result of raising the seed under glass to the usual practice of sowing out of doors. The seed was sown eight months ago Some Beadtifdl Tree Carnations. A beautiful gathering of Carnations comes from Mr. E. Guile, The Gardens, Shortgrove, Newport, Essex, who mentions that, with the exception of the variety Duchess of Portland, they are of American origin. The varieties were conspicuous for the large size of the flowers, without coarseness, a sweet Clove-like fragrance, and absence of splitting. Duchess of Portland variety is a soft pink, a Carnation of great beaUty ; Marquis de Brabant, a clear cherry pink ; Pros- perity, pink and white, a very distinct and charming flower, with quite a fringed look, a type we should rejoice to see more of in our houses; Dazzler, clear scarlet ; President Roose- velt, a beautiful clove colour ; and Purity, white, a flower of great charm, and one that deserves wide cultivation. Violets from Cumberland. " Cumberland" sends from Penrith exception- ally fine flowers of double Violets, with the following interesting note: "The plants were grown in the summer in soil to which sulphate of iron was forked in previously. I think this deepens the colour of the flowers. Another year I intend adding the sulphate to the soil in the frames as well as in the open garden." Arum Lilt Freak. " C. J." sends from East York a double-spathed Arum Lily, to know whether this is an unusual occurrence. This is not so. It is, indeed, quite common. Our correspondent remarks: "No doubt it will be interesting to your readers to know that the plant is carrying six good spathes, and is 5 feet 6 inches high." CHRYSANTHEMUMS. SEASONABLE NOTES. FROM now until the second week in April the majority of the plants being cultivated for specimen flowers should be ready for transferring into 5-inch and 6inch pots. Assuming that all has gone well with the plants, these should now be well rooted in 3-inch pots and be strong and sturdy. As I have often pointed out, to attain to perfection in this, from the moment the cuttings are inserted till the blooms are perfected the utmost care and observation must be insisted on if one wishes to excel either for one's own satisfaction for home decoration or in competition on the exhibition table. Much more depends on the foundation in building up the plants in their early stages of growth than many suppose, and should they receive a severe check at this season of the year from any cause what- ever one cannot reasonably expect to achieve success. The Co.mpost. — Every care should be taken to procure the very best available, and have it in readiness some days before it is actually used. If possible prepare it in an open shed, and turn and mix several times before potting. Care should be taken not to use it in too wet or dry a condition, but choose the happy medium. Good fibrous loam of a medium texture which was cut and stacked last autumn should form the chief ingredient, and pull it into small pieces with the hands. If this is inclined to be somewhat heavy it may be lightened by adding sufficient good leaf-soil or old Mushroom bed manure, and to render it porous add some finely-powdered charcoal and old mortar rubble, coarse silver, clean road, or river sand. To every four bushels apply a ti-inch potful each of bone-meal and Clay's Fertilizer. Both the pots and crooks should be thoroughly cleansed, and if the pots are new well soak and dry them before using. Dhainage. — This is unquestionably one of the most important points in relation to successful Chrysanthemum culture in all stages, as without a clear and uninterrupted waterway the plants will not grow satisfactorily. The crocks should be carefully placed in the pots, gradually building up, beginning with the coarser ones at the bottom and finishing off with quite fine ones. Over these should be placed a good layer of clean fibre taken from the loam, and, providing worms are excluded, as they most certainly should be, the drainage ought to be as perfect when the plants are turned out as the day it was arranged. This applies to all plant culture more or less, but it is not practised nearly so much as it should be. Number of Plants to Grow. — This will, of course, much depend on circumstances, both as regards facilities when the time comes round for accommodating them under glass and labour at command duiiug the summer months. Let me point out that '200 plants well grown and attended to will give infinitely more satisfaction than double the quantity, which for various reasons cannot be looked after. Up to this time almost anyone with a reasonable amount of glass can strike and grow many more than will be required, and the best and most promising now should be selected and grown on. When it is one's ambition to enter into the forthcoming contests it will be far better to pin one's faith to and cultivate a good number of the most promising varieties rather than attempt to grow too many. A list should be prepared and kept for future guidance, as this will save a vast amount of care and anxietj' later. Potting. — Before beginning carefully examine each plant, and if dry thoroughly water. With everything in readiness the potting should be commenced; disturb the roots as little as possible, removing only the largest of the crocks, pot firmly, sprinkling a little of the finest soil over the surface ; see that each plant is correctly labelled and neatly staked. Damp over the pots aud soil before leaving the potting-shed, and arrange in cold frames on a good bed of fine cinder ashes, or on battens. Choose an open site facing south ; no harm will accrue if placed pot thick for a short time. Very little air will be needed for a few days, but spray over the foliage two or three times a day in bright weather, and offer every inducement to encourage the plants to recover from the slight check as speedily as possible. After the third or fourth day the whole should be thoroughly watered in filling up the pots at least three times. As soon as active growth begins give air more freely, taking care to avoid cold cutting winds as much as possible, and tilt the lights in the opposite direction to which the wind is blowing. By this time more room should be given them, siillicient to allow each to be examined thoroughly. The points of the growths should be dusted with tobacco powder every ten days during the evening and well washed out with the syringe the following morning with tepid water. This will render them safe against attacks of aphis. On mild, balmy days remove the lights entirely, but always make sure against frost at night. April 1, 1905.] THE GAEDEN. 189 Specimen Plants. — To obtain large, well- developed specimens it is essential that the foundation be formed as early in the year as possible by growing on in a genial temperature. Stopping and Tying Out the YoaNO Shoots TO Form a Good Base. — Fortunately the old way of tying down the shoots almost as flat as a pancake is practically obsolete, nevertheless a •certain amount of training is necessary in the early stages to ensure good plants, after which allow the plants to develop naturally. Many of the newer varieties of the Japanese make delightful bushes, especially those which possess a natural tendency to branch out freely. Decide on a definite number of shoots, and get these selected as early in the season as possible, and the finer will be the individual blooms. Pompon and Decokative Varieties should now be potted oif singly into 3-inch pots, if not already done. The leading growth should be pinched and the plants grown on in cold frames, shifting iato 5-inch pots when plenty of roots have been made. Early-flo WEEING BoRDER VARIETIES. — These ought now to be thoroughly hardened, exposing results in every way are much more pleasing than when tied up to a single bunch as they far too frequently are. In my opinion there is a great future for this charming section of the Chrysanthemum. E. Beckett. THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE DEVELOPiMENT OF THE AURICULA. IN a recent number of The Garden the Rev. F. D. Horner took me somewhat sharply to task for having, as he indicated, advocated some lines of change in the Auricula, calculated, as he appeared to think, to do discredit to the present sections into which the florists' Auriculas are divided. I can assure him I had no desire in any way to interfere in the slightest degree with the traditional character of the green, grey, and white edges, and selfs. No one welcomes more readily than I do a new introduction of value ; and I am as firm an upholder of the absolute SNOWDROPS and OLD TEW TREES AT MELLERSTAIN, KELSO, N.B. (From a photograph sent bij Lady Binning.) 'j the plants as much as possible on all favourable occasions. Stop the shoots to ensure good bushy plants for putting out iu their permanent positions early next month. When well grown few flowering plants during late autumn are more attractive or more appreciated than these, as when most of the summer-flowering plants are on the wane these fill a blank which few other things can do. They make charming beds or ribbon borders, and are equally valuable for dotting about in the shrubberies and herbaceous borders. The positions in which they are in- tended to be planted should now be thoroughly prepared, working in a good quantity of farmyard manure, and deeply digging, or, what is still better, trenching the same. The surface should be in a rough and lumpy condition, leaving it to the weather to sweeten and pulverise by the time of planting. If a fine day is chosen little difficulty will be experienced in bringing this to a fine tilth. When putting out the plants do not cramp them for the want of room, but allow sufficient so that each may be staked out much in the same way as a specimen plant, as by so doing their beauty is much enhanced, and the individuality of these various types as he is himself. While writing, I had in my mind the complaints of Dr. Bonavia and others, who greatly admire the Auricula, to the effect that for the florist to taboo everything outside of these classes, however good it may be in itself, restricts the development of the flower. It was to meet this objection that I made mention of the charming striped sport in the possession of Mr. Horner, a variety which I am sure would be welcomed by many, if it could be fixed in character and propagated to an extent which would justify its being distributed. I am quite content that Mr. Horner and the bulk of Auricula growers should cleave to their present types ; but after all it is to the general public that the National Auricula Society is dependent for a considerable measure of support, and the general public likes to have its say nowadays. The southern section of the National Auricula Society needs increased support, for the schedule of prizes of the present year shows a reduction of the ' value of first prizes owing to insufficient means. A class or two for novelties in Auriculas might 1 be framed. Among the fancy varieties which Mr. Douglas is in the habit of staging there are some worthy of wider culture, and they might be found under the head of a novelty class. Some once-popular florists' flowers have been saved from practical extinction by the introduction of new types. The introduction of the fancy Pansy gave a new lease of existence to the English show Pansy, and now it dominates. The intro- duction of the Japanese Chrysanthemum did the same for the incurved Chrysanthemum, and it is now paramount for all purposes. The show Dahlia has been saved by the advent of the Cactus type. All these three introductions, to whom flori- culture owes so much, were frowned upon by the florists, but they won their way by reason of their diversity of character. I want to see something of the same take place in the case of the Auricula. It is capable of considerable development in the direction of striped, yellow, and wliite self flowers, doubles, &c. The strict florist shall be left in full possession of what he has, but some wider development may be, and I think is, necessary to meet a larger circle of lovers of the Auricula. R. Dean. SNOWDEOPS IN KELSO. The illustration shows Snowdrops and some very old Yew trees at Mellerstaiu, Kelso, N.B. The Snowdrops were not fully out when the photographs were taken, but when the flowers are at their best they present a wonderful sight. GIANT ANTIRRHINUMS. The improvements effected in most herbaceous plants have been within the last twenty years of a very marked character, and in the majority of cases they are represented in gardens by the best types. 'This, however, is hardly the case with the giant Snapdragons, which have not yet received the amount of attention they deserve. Until recently they were quite underrated in catalogues and advertisements, and when my first lot of seed came to band I was told that with good cultivation they would grow more than 3 feet high. As a matter of fact there were few of the first spikes that did not go over 5 feet, while in size and colouring of individual flowers they were exceptionally fine. The ordinary Snapdragon, as everyone knows, will flourish as well in an old wall or a heap of brick rubbish as in the border, but to have the giant forms at their best requires more liberal treatment. Seed procured from any good firm making a speciality of hardy plants may be sown thinly in pans or boxes in June. For pricking out the seedlings I like a frame with a hard ash bottom, for if the plants are to remain in these quarters through the winter there is not then the chance, when lifting, of finding a lot of long, straggling roots deep down in the soil. Four inches or 5 inches of soil on the top of the ashes will be sufficient, and it may consist of equal parts of ordinary light garden mould and road scrapings from a well-prepared heap. A slight protection may be necessary in very severe weather, as some of the varieties are not quite hardy. Beds or borders destined for their reception may be prepared as for ordinary summer plants, except that instead of manure a surface-dressina of, say, 3 inches thick of old Cucumber or Melon soil may be forked in. Stake the central spike to prevent breaking off by high wind or heavy rains, and remove it when it is showing a fair proportion of seed-pods to allow for the development of side spikes and a second display. Cuttings of this giant strain strike readily, but as the colours come true from seed the latter is probably the better way to propagate, especially as the seed- lings make the stronger plants. Claremont. E. Burrell. 190 THE GARDEN [April 1, 1905. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. J DESTROYING FIELD MICE. [To THE Editor of " The Gardes."] SI R, — For the destruction of field mice I suggest the following : Over their holes place pieces of paper, slightly pushing some of it in, cover the hole with sulphur, and light the paper. Use a pair of house bellows and drive the fumes into the holes. A calm day should be chosen. On my lawn I had two patches much disfigured with twenty to thirty holes in as many feet. About two months ago I successfully tried the above. In a border where there are flowers I should not like to try it, but the grass is not in the least injured. I closed the holes with pieces of turf after the smoking, and now there are few to be seen. These I intend sulphuring again. Glastonbury. J. A. T. IPOMCEA RUBfiO-aERULEA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I am e.Tceedingly glad that more interest is aroused in the most beautiful of our blue flowers, the Ipomtea rubro-cierulea. Such a display of blue is most striking and rarely seen. My experience is that it is not difficult to grow, and the seed germinates well in light soil in a warm temperature, a stove heat, which some growers give it, being, I think, unnecessary. The one shown in the photograph was raised in a warm vinery, and potted on, as soon as the little plants could be handled, into 2i-inch pots, gradually repotting until 7-)nch pots were used. The soil for the final potting should be richer than before, mixing some well-rotted manure with the former compost. Give the plants when quite small a thin stick to cling to, as they grow more rapidly, and if to remain in pots place them notice they are new each day. It is a lovely greenhouse climber, framing a window, or cover- ing a blank wall in a south or south-east position (the one in the photograph was by the side of a drawing-room window facing east). Also it is very charming out of doors, and in our sunny Torqua3' thrives and is happy in a warm sheUered place against a wall or trellis if in full sun, south being the best aspect. They should be grown as for pots, but when IS inches to 2 feet high gradually harden them off well, and then make a good bed where they are to be planted. Add old rotten manure and leaf-mould to the soil if that is good, or, if not, replacing it with loam, mixing well together. Turn the plants carefully out of their pots and put in the hole made for them, fill in, and water well. Water, syringe, and shade them until quite established. Never let them want for water, and if the weather is very dr}' a good soaking and mulch will keep them vigorous. The planting outside here may be done the end of May or early in June. Group the plants together to form a mass of colour. 1 have been much interested in the letters written about this climber, and hope to have a good show of them this year myself ; and also to see many more grow them outside as well as under glass. They are, I fanc)', hardier than we think. M. Mitchell, F.R.H.S. Alberbury Gardens, Torquay. IPOMCEA KUBRO-C^RULEA. after the last potting where they are intended to stay, and stretch fine string up to a height of 12 feet or 13 feet from the ground. Keep well watered and syringed, and give weak liquid manure once or twice a week. This will produce an abundance of blossom, and, though the indi- vidual flower lasts but one day, they follow each other in such quick succession that you scarcely [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I note that Mr. J. S. Higgins, on page 120, states that he experiences difficulty in raising this plant from seed to a height of 2 feet. Possibly much depends upon the seeds, for in the course of three years, during which time I have grown this Ipoma'a for planting out against a south wall in the open, the seeds have always germi- nated well, and the plants suffered no check either while under glass or when planted out. Mr. Higgins advocates sowing the seed at the end of February. This maj' be good advice if the plants are to be grown entirely under glass, but, if they are intended to be eventually grown in the open air, the date is, I fancy, considerably too early, and fully two months or more in advance of the time at which I sow, as I never plant out before the end of .June, when the seedlings are about 2 feet in height and set with their first flower- buds. S. W. Fitzhereert. FLOWERING OF CHRISTMAS ROSES. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I observe in The Garden of the 25th ult. that a correspondent mentions Christmas Roses being in flower a fortnight before Christmas Day in a cold frame. It may interest your readers to know that we grow Helleborus niger altifolius in the open ground on an eastern border here, in the north of Ireland, and have done so for several years. They began to flower last autumn in the third week in October, perfectly pure white, and very large, and there are at this moment many blossoms on the plants, although, of course, at this time of the year they are not so pure in colour. We divide the clumps every second spring as soon as they are out of flower, and there are now sevent}' plants on the eastern border and three or four more on a rock garden at some little distance. On one of the latter I counted twenty-one blossoms recently, and a flower which I gathered at random measures i inches across. Mrs. Mont(;oi\iery. Btcssintjbourne, Fivtmihtovn, Connly Tyrone. Well grown plants are often so thickly covered with flowers that little foliage can be seen. The flowers are small, only about an inch across; the colour a shade of red, perhaps best described as a dark brick-red. The growth is dense and freely branched. Half a dczen plants in No. 4 house, Kew, are a mass of flower. Dotted amongst Eupatorium ripariuni they are very effective. A BEAUTIFUL AZALEA (A. OBTUSA). [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — This is an extremely useful plant. It flowers a month or even more in advance of the general batch of Indian varieties. Introduced into heat in January or February the flowers soon begin to open, and continue to do so over a long period. RHODODENDRON INDICDM OBTUSA (AZALEA OBTUSA alba) at KEW. The white variety album illustrated is even more useful. A habit of this plant to revert to the type and produce red or streaked flowers does not fail to attract the attention of visitors. When grown outside they are often damaged by late spring frosts, except in the extreme south and west of England. A. 0. ENGLISH V. AMERICAN APPLES. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir,— I have read the correspondence in relation to above, and I certainly think that we have no English or Irish Apples to compare with the Americans. I sincerely wish we had, but whether it is the United States climate which produces such delightful Apples and fruit or not, yet I am certain, notwithstanding the excellent varieties which we grow here for dessert and kitchen use, none of them can compare at all with the American product ; we simply cannot compete with them in quality. Walter Smyth. Faitnmore, Holyicood, County Down. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Stress of work has unfortunately hitherto prevented me from answering Mr. Bunyard's letter. Much that he says re the variation of the ripening season according to latitude where fruit is grown is entirely true, as any fruit; grower must know. But does not Mr. Bunyard give his case away rather badly when he writes " Many varieties of Apples are generallj' acknow- ledged to be of decorative value only ? Are these not in season as long as they preserve this character '!" Well, if such Apples are exhibited in special classes reserved for decorative purposes only, no doubt the contention is just ; but surely if a collection is sent up to the Royal Horti- cultural Society in the ordinary way the members of the fruit committee should not award their highest commendation to the exhibitor if aware that his exhibit included varieties that at the date of showing were tasteless and insipid, and April 1, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 191 therefore quite unsuited to the requirements of the kitchen or the dessert table. Cvilompton, Devon. H. Edgene Traoev. REFUSE OF ACETYLENE GAS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Referring to the enquiry of Mr. H. P. Powel in The Garden of the 18th ult., page 110, respecting the use of the refuse from carbide of calcium, I may mention that at both of our carbide of calcium factories we have made con- siderable use of this refuse for garden purposes. We find that, used upon nearly any description of soil, it increases the weight of the crop and has a remarkably good result in keeping down insects. For instance, sprayed lightly over Celery beds. Strawberry beds. Lettuce beds, &c., there was a remarkable freedom from slugs. In my own garden I am now using it also for spraj'ing Roses and shrubs, utilisingf or thispurpose unslaked carbide of calcium in a very ingenious apparatus put upon the market by a French firm. The gas evolved by the carbide sets up sufficient pressure in the apparatus to produce a very efficient spraj". We have also supplied fairly large quantities of dust carbide for dusting on hops. The experi- ments carried out in this direction have met with great success, but the carbide dust should be put on in dry weather. If put on when the leaves are wet, the heat set up by the rapid slaking of the carbide damages the plant. Where residue from acetylene generators is used it should not be put on beds too thickly, but should be spread thinly over the surface. As you correctly remark, the chief constituent of this residue is lime, and it is therefore not so useful on a limestone soil as on others. As to the impurities, the chief one is phosphorus, which naturally is a help rather than the reverse for manuring purposes. I shall be glad to give any particulars any of your readers may desire. For the Albion Products Company, Limited, Charles Bingham, Managing Director. 11, Queen Victoria Street, London. WINTER GREENS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — It is probable that the harm done to winter Greens, referred toby " West Middlesex," is due to fogs more than to any other cause. Outside the fog area winter Greens generally are in fine fresh condition. Only a few days since, in passing along the Great Eastern Railway to Marks Tey, Essex, I greatly admired the almost luxuriant appearance of breadths of greenstuffs on each side, showing that even in that flat, wind-swept county frosts had done no harm. West Middlesex, both because it is on the west side of London, and lies rather low, invariably suffers from London fogs, as these prevail most when cold easterly winds also prevail, though very sluggish ones, hence the drift of the smoke and sulphur-laden fog in its worst form in the western direction. In spite of the fact that Essex lies on the east of the Metropolis it does seem to possess some advantages over West Middlesex, as whilst the latter, for getting produce to market and manure home is much nearer, the former has a purer and much less fog-laden atmosphere. A. D. THE BULLFINCH IN THE GARDEN. (Letters in its Defence.) [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — Both as a gardener and a bird-lover I was much interested in the article signed " E. K. R." on the bullfinch in the issue of The Garden of the 18th ult. It may, perhaps, interest your correspondent to know that my experience here tends to show that birds, when they have plenty of natural wild country and are undisturbed, do not trouble the gardener much. We are situated on the edge of the New Forest, and, with the exception of the gardens, this estate is allowed to remain in a perfectly wild condition. Birds abound and are unmolested, the bullfinch amongst them, and, although we grow a fair quantity of fruit, including Gooseberries, I have not yet in the course of three years found them trouble the buds at all. Chaffinches, too, are abundant, and we find it necessary to protect the earliest seed sowings, but later, as food becomes more plentiful, they do not trouble. We also protect the small fruits with netting against tlie attacks of blackbirds and thrushes, but through the permanent wire netting at the sides small birds are able to go in and out without inflicting any damage. The balance is well kept, for hawks, stoats, and weasels, too, are abundant. Formerly I was for many years in suburban London, and was much more troubled. I think there is no more destructive and mischievous bird than the town sparrow, also other birds, which take up their quarters in the gardens, acquire a taste for things which, when living under natural conditions, they leave alone. The sparrow is present here, too, but not in large numbers, and seems to be a different bird. The jays are our worst enemies, and give a lot of trouble when the Peas are ready. I was very much disgusted once, when going over a very large garden, to see the head gardener shooting tomtits. They are encouraged here and fed during the winter, and are very plentiful. The only damage I have known them do is to peck holes in a few Pears. The few they destroyed were not missed. Southampton. F. Mark. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Referring to your recent article, "The Bullfinch in the Garden," I had a nest of bullfinches in my garden last year for the first time to my knowledge. It was strictly pre- served, and yet I had a better crop of fruit than I have ever had before. I have also kept these birds practically all my life, and bred them in an outdoor aviary, and I know that nothing gives a bullfinch greater pleasure and good than a folded Rose leaf in which lies hidden a fat, green caterpillar ; in fact, so fond of these caterpillars are the birds that they will come and take these infested Rose leaves from one's hand when they will refuse to do so for any other food, even Hempseed. N. B. Roberts. The Cottage, West Retford, Notts. ENGLISH NAMES FOR PLANTS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — It always seems to me that the desire for English names to plants comes to those who are not greatly interested in gardening. In itself the desire maybe natural, but its fulfilment is practi- cally impossible owing to the number of new plants continually coming from the ends of the world. A. Smallpeioe seems to me to show the right way, viz., to adapt, as far as possible, the Latin names to current use. We have done so in so many cases (as in Dahlia, Camellia, Azalea, and others) as to show that it is by no means impossible. Some, no doubt, are beyond us. What is to be made of Tritoma or Kniphofia, for example? We call them variously "Red-hot Pokers," "Flame Flowers," or "Torch Lilies." Such confusion ought to be remedied by agreement, as far as possible. Out of the three I should vote for Torch Lilies. Red-hot Pokers is trivial. Flame Flower indeterminate, but Torch Lily does, I think, give an idea of what is meant. A common consent might be obtained by asking the opinions of your readers in such cases where several English names occur. Where new plants are named in English it is much to be desired that short names should be chosen and agreed upon. Take the Chionodoxas, for instance. I have always thought Snow Gems would be better than Glory of the Snow, but I am afraid it is too late to try to alter it now. Where Latin names are euphonious I should certainly try to get them anglicised, and would speak of Cro- cuses and not Croci. Crocus is, to all intents and purposes, an English word now. J ' -',-*! j, T.1;J..We.\ver. WHEN ARE APPLES OUT OF SEASON? [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — The notes on page 14-1 will be read with interest by many fruit-growers. Mr. Engleheart, I think, touches the real fact when he states that with regard to the late fruits our climate, in a great measure, is answerable for the absence of flavour. We have plenty of new varieties, but these are without the keeping qualities required, and Mr. Engleheart says scarcely anything has yet been done in the way of intelligent breeding. Here, then, is an opening for.the Maidstone firm, who should certainly give the best results, but I fear, even in favoured Kent, this is impossible, as the climate cannot compare with that of America. I fear Mr. Tracy (page 144), who lives in Devon, did not see the fruits in question. A finer collection I have never seen, and having somewhat similar ideas as the writer as to the seasons of different varieties, I carefully examined several dishes, and was surprised to find the fruits so sound and plump. I did not see a single soft or shrivelled fruit. G. W. S. TREES AND SHRUBS. AEUNDINARIA NOBILIS. FOR some years past Bamboo lovers have been loolsing forward with fear to the flowering of this Arun- dinaria. I do not know where the thirty years' theory had its origin, but I am afraid we shall ere long have cause to think that it is based on too sound linos. Soon after New Year my father said he thought that some of the culms had an unusual appearance, which he suspected meant flowering ; this, however, I considered arose from other causes. But recently I carefully examined the suspected culms, and am sorry to say that on close inspection found signs of flowers. About thirty years since we had a quantity of this Arundinaria, some old- established plants, others three and four years old, some even only one year, and every plant of the whole stock flowered and died. With us it failed to reproduce itself by seed ; but with Captain Carre of Valnord, Guernsey, a few seedlings showed, and were carefully nursed, and from that source we obtained a fresh stock of this noted plant. Arundinaria Simoni started flowering with us for the first time two years ago, is still doing so, and will, I fancy, continue year by year till every plant has flowered. The condition of our suspected plants is at present not sufficiently developed to convince me that my fears are well grounded ; but it would be interesting to know how other plants are looking, particularly the Menabilly stock. H. C. Smith. Caledonia Nitrsery, Guernsey. THE WINTER SWEET. ' (Chimonanthus feageans.) This is one of our most beautiful hardy winter-flowering plants, posses.sing an uncom- monly delicious scent of its own. Its wax- like buds begin opening at the end of the year, expanding delightfully until March. Its sprays of bloom are capital when cut for indoor decoration, and will remain fresh for a 192 THE GARDEN. [April 1, 1905. considerable time, giving off a pleasing perfume. This plant amply repaj-s for a little extra oare and attention, rewarding one thereby with numerous flowering growths fully 3 feet long, and literally covered with blooms. To attain this object, after flowering time is over — say, the ' middle of March— all weak and old worthless wood should be cut hard bacli, thus promoting vigorous growths, which should be trained fan- shaped on a wall, laying them in evenly from 4 inches to 6 inches apart. These shoots eventually become covered with blooms. As the branches lengthen they will throw out lateral growths towards the base. Those which are not wanted for laying in should be pinched during the summer, and so form flowering spurs similar to Plum trees, for example. It should be grown for its foliage alone, so distinct and handsome is it when in vigorous health. The colouring is a lovely golden-yellow in autumn ; during the dull winter months its fragrant flowers appear freely. The plant does remarkably well here on a wall facing east. Any good garden soil suits it. Swanmore Gardens. Geokge Ellwood. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. A RARE HARDY PLANT. Shoetia dniflora. THIS beautiful Japanese plant was for some years considered to be practi- cally identical with the Carolina Shortia galacifolia. Horticulture having been the means of bringing the American and Japanese plants together in a living condition, it is found that here. East and West, provide the cultivator with two quite distinct (from a garden point of view) species of Shortia. Both are extremely pretty plants, with persistent leaves, but more attention just now is naturally being paid to S. uniflora owing to its present scarcity in this country. It may be mentioned here that the existence of the Japanese Shortia played an important part in the discovery of the long - lost Carolina Shortia galacifolia, the examination of dried plants of the former confirming the late Dr. Asa Gray's belief that S. galacifolia, at that time only represented in Europe by a solitary dried leaf and fruit, still existed. There it was ultimately discovered by a lad near Marion, McDowell Country, North Carolina, in May, 1887, growing some distance away from the spot where Michaux, a hundred years or so previously, had gathered the above- mentioned leaf and fruit — the scanty material on which the genus was described. A full account of the history of the Carolina Shortia is given in the Botanical Magazine., 7082. At Edinburgh the flowers of S. uniflora appear in March, fully a month before those of S. galacifolia. Other differences, too, are noticeable ; the flowers of S. uniflora are larger than those of its Ameri- can cousin, and are not white, but suffused with a blush tint varying in intensity, while the leaves are somewhat smaller. Shortia uniflora was imported in very small quantity in the latter years of the last cen- tury, but who first grew and flowered it I do not know. For several years it was offered in catalogues at a very moderate figure, but on enquiring the plants were not forthcoming. Recently the Japanese form of Pyrola rotundifolia was dis- tributed as Shortia uiniflora, a curious mistake, seeing that the remains of the many-flowered spikes were on the plants. Mr. Hindniarsh, a most successful grower of Shortia uniflora, records his experience with it in the Gardeners' Chronicle, Vol. XXXI., where an illustration is also given. The photographs that he has been so good as to show me show that this beautiful plant is quite happy at Alnwick. At the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, it thrives with a full northern exposure in a peat bed. Close by scores of Shortia galacifolia, planted amidst Ericas, are very beautiful both in flower and leaf. Schizocodon soldanelloides is sometimes called the .Japanese Shortia, but there is surely no occasion to mix the names up in this wav. D. S." Fish. Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. OSTROWSKIA MAGNIFICA. It is pleasant to read of the success of others with this plant if one cannot grow it one's self. CiUing on Mr. J. C. House, at Westbury-on- Trym, at the beginning of last month, I noted strong growths 4 inches long from his plant on a raised mound of soil at the foot of a low stone wall with a southern exposure. The growth had every appearance of success. No protection was given to the plant. The deep red " braishey " soil seemed to suit it in every way. Mr. House seemed quite happy about his plant, saying that when once established no difficulty is experienced in obtaining success. E, Molykeux. name was applied. The leaves are similar to those of I. persiea, and the flowers are of a curious shade of silver grey with purple falls. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1271. IRIS SIEHEANA. Since the beginning of February this interesting little plant has been producing a succession of flowers on a warm south border. Of almost the same colour as the ground it may easily escape notice, and this is no recommendation. If it were not for its earliness it would have little claim to a place in the garden. It is one of the Juno group from Asia Minor, and one of the several introductions of Herr W. Siehe, after whom it is named ; it is also grown under the names of I. persiea magna and I. Haussknechti. The latter name was given to it by the discoverer, but owing to the name being appropriated previously by another member of the same family, it could not stand, therefore the present THE RARE AND BEAUTIFDL SHORTIA UNIFLORA. EUSTOMA RUSSELLIANUM. FAR better known to the gardeners of a generation or more ago than it is to those of the present day was this beautiful Gentian Wort, for it was of old regarded as a good test of the cultivator's skill, a consideration not so much taken into account now as it once was. The generic name of Eustoma had, however, at that period not come into general use, for to the old-time gardener the plant was, and still is, known as Lisianthus russelliauus. It is a native of Texas, from whence it was intro- duced in the early years of the nineteenth century, and named in honour of the Duke of Bedford. Good plants used to figure among the large specimen plants so freely exhibited in the fifties, but, as above stated, it is now comparatively unknown. Still, seed of it can be obtained from most dealers, the supply, I believe, being principally obtained from Germany. A few years ago M. Senary of Erfurt was particularly suc- cessful in its culture for seed-producing purposes, the flowers when at their best making a magnificent display, but whether it is still grown there to the same extent I cannot now say. At all events, a packet of seed may now be bought for a shilling, and the present time is a very suitable one to take the culture of this charming plant in hand, for the seed should be sown in the month of April. The soil best suited for this purpose is equal parts of loam, leaf- mould, and sand, the top Jaj'er being passed through a sieve with a quarter of an inch mesh. The pot must be clean and well drained, with the roughest portion of the ! soil placed immediately over the crocks. From its minute character the seed should be covered only with the merest sprinkling 1 of dry sand, when, if a pane of glass is laid over the top and the whole placed in a structure kept at a temperature of 50° to 60' (or even more during the daytime) the young plants will soon make their appearance, and, directly they can be conveniently handled, must be pricked oS' either into pots or pans. The same kind of soil will suffice, and, as in sowing the seed, the upper layer should be somewhat finer than the rest, as there is then less danger of injuring the delicate fibres. The next shift will be into small pots, and if they go on well they will, by the middle of August, be i ISTOMA RUSSELUANUM^ April 1, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 193 we can obtain bloasom as well as glistening that are only procurable from the open ground and almost evergreen foliage I think we are were potted up in October and then brought justified in using what is avadable. P. under glass early in the year, the pots plunged in , a bed of leaves, the plants would bloom in April, and a second growth be obtained by budding NEWLY- POTTED ROSES. ume. Although it will not do to rely too much sufficiently advanced to be shifted into pots 4 inches or 5 inches in diameter, according to the vigour of the^ plants. Wintered in a temperature of 50° to 60 , they may be shifted into larger pots about the end of February. Some preier to put The importance of a gentle bottom-heat for Roses upon the merits of Roses as seen under glass, yet discovered it would ena amateur to be to the front, especi- ally if the National Rose Society encourages the exhibition of new Roses by amateurs by offering suit- able prizes. P. them into pots about 8 inches in diameter, {.[j^t have only been potted up a few weeks cannot . a good rosarian can form a fair estimate of the And flower them in these, while others give good points of a variety, and if even an intermediate shift, finally putting them >^ one or two sterling novek.es were into 8-inch or 9-inch pots. As they are very Vj^- discovered it would enable th. impatient of an excess of moisture, thorough ■drainage must at all times be ensured, while in winter they need compara- tively little water. The compost for the final shift will, of course, require to be coarser than that for the smaller pots, a very suit- able mixture being two parts €ach of good yellow loam and leaf-mould, though some prefer peat instead of this last, and one part each of dried cow manure and coarse silver sand, the whole being thoroughly incor- porated together, and in potting pressed down moderately firm. With this treatment one may reasonably look forward to a fine display in the month of August, ■while the fact that failures are by no means unknown imparts an additional interest to the ■culture of this striking plant. Though usually treated as a bien- nial, it has been, by sowing the seed early, sometimes grown as an annual, but in that case the plants did not attain the propor- tions of those whose season of growth extended over a longer period. H. P. ROSE GARDEN. DOROTHY PERKINS AS A FOUNTAIN ROSE. A NY ONE who planted this /\ Rose when it first / % appeared will observe, / \ on examining the base J^ ^ of the plants at the present lime, quite a number of sucker-like growths just waiting for the warm days to start into growth. It is obvious these growths must either crowd the plant, or some of the older shoots must give way later on to these newcomers. Now, providing ample space is available, there can be no reason why the new growths should not be trained away from the upright support, utilising any other support fancy or taste may indicate. I might suggest a few wooden logs or tree stumps placed on either aide of the pillar or arch if admissible, but anything would do to provide a suitable reclining medium for the willowy growths. How delightful these growths appear when studded with sprays of blossom. I am persuaded we obtain more beauty out of our rambler Roses by this loose, fountain-like style of growth than the somewhat severe pyramidal way of training. I would advise the more frequent planting of this charming Rose for clothing a trellis or for forming a hedge. Many of the varieties of the useful wichuraiana race would often make far prettier screen plants than Ivy. If, however. ROSE ALLIANCE FRANCO- RUSSE. I HAVE been much surprised that exhibitors who make Tea Roses their special study have not brought this variety into greater prominence. As far as I know it has never been exhibited in a com- petitive stand, and yet its merits are of no mean order. These are in form, substance, and colour almost perfect. At times the flowers resemble a pale Perle des Jardins, but there is a salmon shade pervading most of them. A deep petal, coming up to a point, is one of its characteristics, and I feel sure it would be a valuable kind for the exhibitor. It would be a splendid idea if the Royal Horticultural Society could see their way to plant such sorts as this at Wisley in order to bring them more under the notice of growers. P. ROSE JEANNE BUATOIS. This is a Hybrid Tea that has been somewhat overlooked by exhibitors. It produces a splendid flower of much depth and nearly as white as Niphetos. The growth is more compact than that of the old Rose alluded to. The flowers are borne fairly erect, but the variety is not excessively double. P. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. ± vv w l^ TWO NEW LACHENALIAS : THE ONE ON THE RIGHT IS JEAN ROGER AND THE LEFT BRILLIANT. (Slight reduction.) be over - estimated ; warmth stimulates root action. There is a phase of Rose growing not yet much in vogue, but one which I imagine will extend, and that is to procure the best novelties as they appear and grow them under glass with a view of testing their merits, and also to provide buds of the most desirable. Now if such kinds TWO NEW LACHENALIAS ACHENALIAS are among the most showy of greenhouse flowers, and are deservedly popular with profes- sional gardeners. It is a matter for regret that they are not more grown by amateurs. The two new forms illustrated were shown by Mr. J. T. Bennett- Poe, Cheshunt, and by Mr. F. W. Moore, Glasnevin Botanic Gar- den, Dublin, before the Royal Horticultural Society, on the 28th ult., each receiving an award of merit. Lachenalia Brilliant is very handsome, with mottled purple stems and large widely-expanded flowers of golden yellow tinged with red. It is a sturdy grower and very free flowering. Lachenalia Jean Roger is tall growing with yellow and green-scarlet- tipped spikes of flowers. It is very showy. 10-^ THE GARDEN. [April 1, 1905. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. Do PLANTS WEAR OUT?— This is L ao interesting question, and the I answer must, at any rate in some i instances, be given in the affirma- tive. In a state of Nature the gods grind slowly, but under cultivation progress can only be made or retro- gression prevented by continual selection. There are several causes at work which reduces the strength of a race of plants. Overfeeding and SIMPLE HINTS. a laj'er of sharp sand under each bulb. Well ram the soil round and replace the piece of turf. In the borders, &c., annuals can be sown over the top at once, and will soon cover the spots, or even better still the evergreen Candytuft. About a year ago at a nursery in Yorkshire I saw a beautiful bed of evergreen Cindy- tuft, with clumps of Snowdrops coming through. Moreover, it was useful, for in spite of drenching rains and clay soil the Snowdrops were fit for overpropagation from cuttings have a tendency to picking for market. Tulips do excellently in the weaken the plants exposed to it, and so let in grass, but the short-stalked Van Thol section disease. The Potato may be quoted in favour of should be planted on the edges where the grass the wearing-out theory, and other plants might will not overrun them. There is usually little be named, the Verbena, for instance, as it was need to cut grass under dense trees early, and a grown years ago. succession of bulbs will render such dreary spots a delight to the owner. Bulbs grown in water are Experimental Work. — The value of this is in best planted out directly after flowering and a proportion to the care in which it is carried out pot turned over them for a few days to protect and results noted down in a book kept for that them a little, purpose. If all the good work done in the past ; had been carefully noted our literature would be Some Good Evergreen Shrubs. — Rhododendrons of greater use to us. Unfortunately, in the past are lovely, but will not grow in a limestone or there was too much narrow-mindedness. Many ' chalky soil. They succeed best where the soil is men who discovered any new process looked upon peaty or alluvial, or red loam overlj'ing the red it as a secret not to be divulged for the general sandstone. Hollies in groups in the shrubbery good. There were good gardeners in Shake- or on the lawn, or to form hedges, are among the most useful evergreen plants we have. They do best in a sandy loam. On the Surrey hills they appear to be growing vigorously in sheer sand. Berberis stenophylla is very hirdy and graceful. It is more graceful and much hardier than Dar- speare's time, and even earlier, when the monks held sway. What is to be the Gardening of the Future .'— It may be said the future will take care of itself ; what we are concerned with is the present, and winii, one of its parents. Boxes and Yews are there is abundant scope for energy and intelli- , hardy native shrubs, splendid as hedges. Laurels gence. We have not yet made the wilderness to ' are useful for blinds and undergrowth in game blossom with the Rose, but the thin end of the coverts. The hardiest kinds are latifolia and wedge is being driven in. Our public bodies are rotundifolia. If pruned annually they maintain waking up and giving encouragement. Directly , their condition and effectiveness. The common or indirectly we draw all our food and clothing | Laurel suffers in severe winters, and should be from the land, and there is room for better , discarded. The Portugal Laurel makes a hand- methods of culture, improved implements, and i some shrub, especially when in flower. Lawson's more attention to details, for it is in the small ^ Cypress in variety forms a very interesting and matters that so many failures occur. Two Pretty Clematises. — Of the many Clematises suitable for cultivating in pots and excellent for the adornment of the greenhouse in February and onwards, none resjjonds more readily to gentle forcing begun in December than the white-flowered single varieties Mrs. Quilter and Miss Bateman. The former has flowers 3 inches in diameter and anthers of a deep shade of purple, and the latter variety slightly larger flowers. Both are free in flowering, and trained eiJective group, but transplants badly unless fre- quently moved. The Indian Cedar (C. Deodora), Atlantic Cedar (C. atlantica), and Silver Firs in variety are good lawn trees. The Austrian Pine is a splendid shelter tree. Killing Green Fly Outside. — This is one of the gardener's troubles that is always in evidence in spring. When the young delicate shoots come on the wall Roses keep a sharp look-out for the green fly. It is there almost before the weather is warm enough to use liquid insecticides, but on small balloon trellises they form charming Tobacco powder applied through an elastic instru objects. Mrs. Quilter was introduced to com- ; ment, which sends it forcibly in little puffs among merce some twelve years ago. B^dbs after Flowering. — At this time of the year many amateurs either do not think of the value of bulbs forced for the house or are puzzled as to the best way of disposing of them. May I suggest that all such bulbs after the flower- spikes have faded be treated thus. The old flowers should be cut off and the pots, bowls, &c., i consigned to some place such as the tool shed, I where they will not be seen. Then water so as to keep them plump, and gradually decrease the amount given. When the leaves turn yellow and die down shake off the old soil and carefully sort Daffodils, Hyacinths, Spirieas, Tulips, Scillas, Crocuses, &c. With these uninteresting shrubberies, backs of borders, and grass under trees can be brightened. Such bulbs do excel- lently and flower well if properly planted. Some good soil should be mixed — loam, cow manure. the foliage, is a sure and easily-applied remedy. Peaches on walls may have the same atten- tion. Green Fly Under Glass. — The insect known as the green fly is small, but very destructive, and they are so prolific that, if given a free hand for only a few hours, much injury may be done. Scarcely any gardeners fumigate with Tobacco paper, in theold-fashioned way, now. Vaporising with nicotine is so much cleaner and cheaper, and is very effective, which the old-fashioned way was not. Once doing is generally sufficient for some time. Mildew on Hoses Outside. — When Roses are badly attacked with mildew more than once some effort should be made to ascertain the cause. The wind rushing round a draughty corner may, by causing a check to growth, produce mildew, and leaf-mould. Remove the piece of turf over but generally, when this^pest is much in evidence, the proposed hole, take out much of the old soil, , it may be taken as a sign that the plants want a and replace with the new. It is as well to give i radical change. Take the plants up, trench and manure the ground, adding sand to open and improve it, prune the roots of the Roses, and then replant. Mildew on i?o.?(!S Wilder Glass. — Cold currents of air passing through tender foliage may be responsible for the presence of mildew under glass. There are other causes, such as dryness at the root, and want of drainage, by causing stagnation at the roots, may have a similar eft'ect. Black sulphur is an easily-applied remedy, and there are other remedies which may be obtained from the sundry or seed shops. Prottcting Peas. — A good way to protect Peas is to take short branches of \'ew or other ever- greens about 1 foot high and stick them along the row on the side which is most exposed. It not only keeps the frost and cold winds from them, but also birds. I have tried it for two or three years, and find it a great success. I have a row of Peas up now, and although we are swarmed with all kinds of birds, the plants are not interfered with. Arrears of Seed Sowing. — At this season, if one gets behind, it is difficult to get abreast of one's work again, and the man who counts the minutes and is chary of his time soon drifts until he becomes an afternoon man, and is, in fact, a lost creature. Do not sow or plant when the surface of the ground is wet and sticky ; there is always a suitable seed-time for those who watch and are prompt to seize the opportunity when it comes. If the surface is stirred up with a long- toothed rake in the morning of a sunny day, the land will be in good order for sowing in the afternoon. Some Picturesque Trees. — The Scarlet Oak, Purple or Copper Beech, Fern-leaved Beech, White Poplar, Silver Birch (Young's weeping variety). Scarlet Horse Chestnut, Purple Sycamore, Scarlet Maple (Acer oolchicum rubrum). Purple Maple (A. Schwedleri), Purple Plum, Purple Nut, and Silver Maple are all useful to give character to a place, and will grow freely in almost any kind of soil if well broken up, and, more important still, good trees are cheap. No garden could be called commonplace which possessed a few good speci- mens of trees. Blister on Peach Trees. — This never occurs under glass, and I know instances where the trees were badly blistered outside and were per- fectly clean and healthy after being covered with glass. Cold winds rushing through the young tender foliage, followed by mildew and insects, soon ruin the trees. In one or two instances the trees were much improved after a deep drain had been cut along the front of the border. And where fruit trees fail there is often more than one cause operating to produce the efl'ect. All fruit borders should be drained at least 3 feet deep. To cure blister temporarily, pick oil' all bad leaves and use Tobacco powder freely. The Potato Boom appears to have expended itself. Even the new varieties may now be pur- chased at a reasonable price. It is best to try them first in small quantities in competition with some of the best old sorts. Up-to-Date still pays to grow in some districts, but The Factor will, I think, take its place. I have great faith in Sutton's Discovery as a future disease-resister, and this is what we are looking for, but this must be combined with good cooking quality. April 1, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 195 GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. LAWNS.— If the dressing suRgested in a recent ealendai- was applied at tlie time, most of tlie moss, Daisies, and succulent weeds will by now J be brown and dead. In that case run the scythe lightly over the grass, rake heavily in cross directions with a wooden rake, and brush hard with a stiff Birch broom. This will clear away a quantity of dead stuff which if left would clog up the cutters of the lawn-mowers later. Any bare patches should be sown with fine lawn grass seeds sprinkled over with fine ashes from the rubbish heap, rolling frequently when the grass is dry. This done take a Wikeham Weed Eradicator filled with weed-killer and examine the lawns carefully for Docks, Thistles, Dandelions, Plantains, and other noxious and strong-growing, deep-rooted weeds, slabbing each in the centre with the pointof the Wikehara, which by the contact liberates the required dobe of poison. This is undoubtedly the best invention extant for this purpose. No further allusion need be made to these matters, tor nothing beyond the ordinary routine of frequent mowing and rolling when the grass is dry and an occasional brushing over for reasons already alluded to will be necessary until the summer is far advanced. Flowek-eeds.— Staking bulbs and other spring-flowering plants is, unfortunately, a necessity, or a storm of wind or even heavy rain will snap off some flower-stems. Some neat contrivances for this purpose are supplied by sundriesmen, but when these are not available and home productions have to be utilised, we find that stiff, plain fencing wire cut in lengths suitable for the various plants and painted a nice green makes as good and inconspicuous a stake tor Hyacinths, Tulips, Ac, as anything. The dried flowering stems of Michaelmas Daisies, Pyrethrum uligi- nosum, and such like are also useful for this work tor a short time, and although more perishable than Hazel and Deal sticks, they are less clumsy in appearance. Box edgings should now be clipped without, I hope, fear of injury from frost. Walks.— At this advanced date it is improbable that frost severe enough to damage freshly-cut grass verges will occur, so newly-laid turf edgings grown out of line or encroaching on the gravel should be neatly and precisely trimmed forthwith. On straight lengths stretch a tight line as a guide for the worker, but on curves a heavy line or cart rope must be laid down loosely, as it forms a more natural curve than pegging. With a good eye and a little practice it becomes quite easy to form quickly any desired bend or curve in this manner. Use a sharp edging-iron, and always cut behind the line, i.e., having the line between the cutter and the walk. Newly-gravelled and dug walks must be often rolled while wet to ensure even- ness and solidity. Temporary protection afforded during the winter to comparatively TENDER Shrubs on walls and in the open may now be entirely removed and the necessary pruning and tying done. There should not be much of the former to do now ; better delay until flowering is over. Pyrus japonica and Lardizabala biternata will soon be out of bloom ; but Azara microphylla is now at its best, and although the flowers are small and inconspicuous, yet they fill the air with their delightful Vanilla-like aroma. It is an ideal wall shrub. After the recent storms see that transplanted trees and shrubs are safely secured to their supports, for wind-swaying is disastrous to their ultimate well-doing. TU Gardens, Tan-y-bwlch, North Wales. J. Eoeekts. INDOOR GARDEN. STREPTOCARPtJS.— These plants have come to the front very much during the last few years. By potting up some of the old plants from January onwards and raising a few seedlings annually a display of flowers can be kept up from April till late autumn. The seedlings are now ready for pricking off. Some of the earlier potted plants are already showing the flower-spikes, and will benefit by an occasional dose of weak manure water. The most suitable place in which to grow them is a warm moist house. Syringe the stages and damp the paths, but not the plants. They thrive in a compost of peat, fibrous loam, and leaf- mould, with the addition of a little crock dust, broken charcoal, and plenty of coarse silver sand. For planting out in suitable positions in beds, borders, and rockeries they will be found most useful. These remarks apply chiefly to the hybrids. S. AYendlandi, with its one gigantic leaf, is well worth growing if given plenty of room, but when crowded together or moved about frequently the leaves become damaged and unsightly. General Remarks. — Sow an early batch of Cineraria and Primula seed and at intervals to keep up a succession tillJune. Use a light, fairly rich compost. Place in a tem- perature of 50° to 55°. Cover with a sheet of glass and paper till germination commences. The most forward Achimenes are ready for transferring from the shallow boxes in which they were started to pots, pans, or baskets. About 60° will be found a suitable temperature in which to grow them for the present. Nepenthes cut back some six weeks or two months ago can be moved into larger baskets or top-dressed. To display the pitchers to the bestadvantage it is preferable to grow them in baskets suspended from the roof. Use a compost of fibrous peat, sphagnum moss, and charcoal. Syringe several times daily. The plants delight in a very humid atmosphere. The Cool Houses. — Amateurs having only a cool house will find this the most suitable time for propagating and potting plants or sowing seeds. Many cuttings root readily at this season under bell-glasses. The days are also longer, and although work can be done at night, it is not nearly so satisfactory as that performed by daylight. Ferns, Aspidistras, Palms, Dracionas, &c., should be examined. See that the drainage is in good order. Top- dressin<' will be sufticient lor the majority. Potting is not advisable every year. If more plants are required divide some of the larger Ferns and Aspidistras. Insert cuttings of such things as Geraniums, including the scented-leaved varieties, greenhouse Selaginellas, Tradescantia, Coleus, and Panicuni variegatum. Fuchsias are starting into growth ; shake out and repot, or, if they are large speci- mens, top-dressing will be sutticient. Shake out and pot tuberous-rooted Begonias starting into growth, also sow seeds to raise a batch to Hower next year. Syringe and close the houses early in the afternoon. Rcyal Botanic Gardens, Eew. A. Osborn. ORCHIDS. Insect Pests.— Thrips and other troublesome insects are making their appearance, and, if not checked, will multi- ply rapidly. Before thrips become numerous it is advisable to fumigate all the houses periodically. We do so at least once a week until the end of the summer, when it is gradually discontinued. The remedy against these insects is the XL All Vaporiser. There is no necessity for drying up the atmosphere of the house previous to using this compound, and damping down may be done as usual, but overhead syringing should be avoided, as this would drive the insects low down in the growths and in the axils of the leaves, where (he fumes of the insecticide could not reach them On the day following the fumigation the plants should be carefully shaded, as the foliage is liable to be injured by sunshine. Examine those plants which are known to be subject to thrips, and, if any of the latter are found alive, use the vaporiser again in the evening and the next morning. I have used this preparation for about eleven years, and have always found it deadly to thrips and aphis, and the plants generally are kept clean with very little trouble. With the exception of Disa grandiflora and its congeners I have had no Orchids injured. Disas do not like fumigation ; the leaves have always turned black at the points when subjected to the fumes ol this compound. The various forms of scale insects and mealy bug which infest some Orchids should also be checked by the same means ; the brush and sponge must be constantly employed. Cockroaches must be got rid of by skilful trapping or by the various poisons gene- rally advocated. Woodlice sometimes become troublesome just as the new roots begin to push out from the Mexican Lielias ; they are also fond of the young roots of the various Cattleyas, tall-growing Lselias, Miltonias, &c. These pests may easily be caught by putting pieces of Carrot or Potato upon the compost, which should be e.xamined every night and morning. Calanthe Seed.— As mentioned in my last calendar, the different varieties of Calanthe Regnierii are now in bloom, and as soon as the spikes are cut the plants should be placed upon a dry shelf in the warm house for a few weeks When the new growths have fairly started the plants should be shaken out and repotted, as previously advised for the other varieties. Plants of any of the deciduous Calanthes that are carrying seed capsules should be placed in a sunny position to mature and ripen the seed. When the old flower-stems commence to die down, cut the capsules off, fold them in a piece of ti.ssue paper, and hang them up in a dry place for a few weeks to ripen. By that time the earlier-potted plants will have made a considerable number of young roots, and upon the best-rooted plants the seed should be sown. Until the seeds germinate, which takes about two or three months, the plants must be carefully sprayed over whenever the soil appears the least dry. When the seedlings are up and become well rooted they will require plenty of water all through the growing period, but they must not be dis- turbed until the following spring. Last year's seedlings may be potted off now. My practice is to place seven or eight of these young plants around the edge of a small pot, and to suspend them close up to the root glass in the warmest house or propagating pit. Until the new roots appear no water must be given to them, but when rooting and growing freely they should be treated as advised for the older plants. The rare Eulophia guineensis and E. congoensis are beautiful species ; their rich flowers appear during summer, and last a long time in perfection. Both plants should be potted and treated exactly as recom- mended for the Calanthes, excepting that when growing they require more shade. Burford Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. FRUIT GARDEN. Strawberries in Pots.— From now onwards these will require a lot of attention in regard to watering and syringing. A dry atmosphere or dryness at the roots encourages red spider, and much damage is often done to the permanent occupants of fruit houses through this cause. Thin out the fruits when set, leaving about six or ein-ht of the strongest. The trusses will now require the support of stakes or they will break. Give the plants copious supplies of stimulants till the fruits commence to colour. Then remove them, if possible, to a cooler and drier house, where the quality of the fruit will be greatly improved. Old forced plants should be taken care of, with a view to making a plantation outdoors at a later date. They will give a splendid crop of fruit the first year after planting. This will admit of removing fruits from young plantations, thus assisting them to build up strong plants for another season. They will also throw plenty of early runners for forcing. A very welcome crop may be had from these old forced plants in the autumn by choosing a few of the strongest and potting them into pots a size larger. Place them outdoors on a bed of ashes and keep them well supplied with water. Syringe them twice daily to keep them clean. The Orchard Uodse.— As soon as the fruits of Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots have set, thinning should be attended to, but it will be safer to leave Apples and Pears till they commence to swell. These, as a rule, will thin themselves. Stop all strong leading shoots and remove any fruitless branches, cutting them back to the bottom growth. The atmosphere must now be kept moist and the syringe used freely (tn rtne days. Syringe them occasionally with a weak mixture of soft soap and sulphur, and if aphis appears fumigate with XL All Vaporiser. Hardy Fruit Garden.— The coverings on wall trees must be removed, or partly so, during mild weather, or the growths will become drawn and weak, causing them to suffer when exposed later. Apricots may be thinned as soon as they are set. Disbudding of Peaches and Nec- tarines may be commenced. This should be donegradually. Young trees especially must be carefully treated in this matter. The final disbudding should be later than for trees which are in full bearing. Any very strong shoots must be pinched to ensure an even distribution of sap. See that wall trees (especially those which are sheltered with glass copings) do not suffer fur want of water. Examine newly-grafted trees and moisten the clay if it has become dry ; moss tied over the clay will be of benefit when drying winds prevail. Rub out all shoots below the scion. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. ORCHIDS. CALANTHES. HAVING been requested by many friends to give a detailed account of the culture of Calanthes, it may be of interest to your readers if I do so through the columns of The Garden. The bulbs are started into growth in March. The compost used is stiff loam and cow manure, about two parts of the former to one of the latter. Deep pans about 11 inches in diameter are preferred to pots, five or six bulbs being placed in each. The old bulbs are so arranged that the young growths have ample room to develop. Before potting, all the old roots are removed close to the base of the bulbs, so that they rest on the surface of the soil. A short stout stick is then put to each, to which they are securely tied for support until new roots are formed. Very little water is needed until the young growths are 3 inches to 4 inches long ; when well rooted and the plants are in active growth, copious supplies are given both at the roots and over the foliage. Calanthes are gross feeders and therefore require plenty of support while growing. For this reason when the soil is well filled with roots liquid manure should be applied freely. No special care is needed during the growing season, except that the plants must be shaded from the direct rays of the sun, and the young growths kept in an upright position by staking, for unless this is attended to the weight of the foliage will cause the young tender bulbs to fall over and become ill-shaped. Some may think this unnecessary, but they will find it of great advantage when the bulbs are a foot or more long, that being the size ours usually attain. Our plants are kept watered until th" flower-spikes are cut, as we find they grow much longer when plenty of moisture is afforded. Bulbs of the above dimensions carry from three to four spikes each, varying from 2 feet to 5 feet long, and about the thickness of a man's finger. With us the plants are in bloom about three months. Having no special Calanthe house they are grown under the shade of Melons, so that they have to put up with all sorts of rough treatment, and, though the foliage is syringed, we have no spot, rust, or other disease, and the foliage is usually as green when the flower- spikes are developing as in the height of summer. We find by growing four or five bulbs in a pan that less attention is needed and more flowers are produced in a limited space ; for instance, a pan 11 inches in diameter will give us about two dozen spikes, as many of the old bulbs produce two growths, sometimes three, so that by the 196 THE GARDEN. LApiiil 1, 1905. time the bulbs have finished growing they are crowded in the pans. Very little drainage is required, as the soil becomes filled with roots by the time growth is completed. Buxted Park Gardens. H. C. Prinsep. PHAIUS GRANDIFOLIUS. This well-known Orchid for the past month has made a grand display with its tall many-flowered spikes, set off by the beautiful dark green foliage, which when well grown makes it a worthy subject as a foliage plant alone. The flowers prove very useful at a period when there is little variety for large vases, and if cut as soon as the first ones are out will last quite three weeks, the buds con- tinuing to open in water. For using in rooms either as single specimens or in groups, well- flowered plants are most valuable, they withstand the hot dry atmosphere better than the majority of flowering plants available at this season, the eater portion of which are subjected to hard seen in full bloom. It is, without doubt, one of the most attractive Cypripediums in cultivation. The dorsal sepal is white, i=haded rose at the top, pale green at the base, and heavily lined from the base upwards with bright purple ; the petals have the deflexed character of the pollen parent, and are pale green lined with dark brown. There is also some spotting of the same colour ; the lip is dark brown shading to green. It is certainly one of the most distinct and beautiful of Cypripe- diums. Compared with the original plant in the collection of Baron Sir H. Schriider, The Dell, Englefield Green, the markings of Wr. Measures's plant are, perhaps, not so deep, but the whole flower has a much brighter appearance. Ctpbipbdium Wm. Lloyd sDPERBnM. When calling a few days ago at The Wood- lands, Streatham, I had the pleasure of seeing this beautiful Cypripedium in bloom. It was raised at The Woodlands, and is the reverse cross of the C. Wm. Lloyd, having in this case C. swanianum flesh rarely cooks around it. The flesh is brown when cooked and uninviting in appearance, and the variety takes a long time to cook thoroughly. Bismarck, on the other hand, is a perfect cooking Apple, and I know no variety better in flavour. As an Apple for sauce — not a bad test so far as cooking can test — Bismarck is superb, while the exceeding smallness of its core, and the way the flesh responds to heat, renders the variety not only valuable, but exceedingly economical when compared with many others. Bismarck is in perfect condition to the end of March. In short, I think so highly of it that I am discarding Prince Albert in its favour. Too many, I fear, have judged this latter from its well-finished exterior, and well-coloured fruits of it are certainly good to look at, but this is not merit. Hampton Hill. E. H. Jenkins. PEAR MARGUERITE MARILLAT. Some varieties of Pears are never so fine as when grown against a wall, and Marguerite Marillat is one of them. The illustration is from a photo- graph taken in the Royal Horticultural Society's gardens at Chiswick. There, as may be seen, this Pear grew and fruited well as a cordon on a west wall. Even the fog and smoke, of which Chiswick has a large share, did not seem to affect the trees. Pear Marguerite Marillat is a splendid garden Pear; it bears freely on the Quince stock, and the fruit is often lib. in weight. When grown as a wall tree on the Pear stock it does exceedingly well. T. PEAR MARGUERITE MARILLAT AS A CORDON ON WEST WALL. forcing. This Phaius is comparatively easy to grow. Liberal treatment through the^ growing season gives the best results. " " T. B. F. ORCHIDS IN FLOWER. Cypripedium venustum measuresianum. One of the moat noteworthy varieties of Cypri- | pedium seen in bloom recently in the collection of R. H. Measures, Esq., The Woodlands, Streatham, was C. venustum measuresianum. It is certainly one of the most exquisite of all slippers. The dorsal sepal is white, thickly covered with bright green lines ; the petals are of a bright yellow, with pale green Hues running part of their length, while the lip is also bright yellow, but with numerous and deep green veins. The foliage of this magnificent variety is also distinct from the typical C. venustum, the purple markings usually seen on the lower side are entirely absent, and the upper sides are some- what lighter in their markings. It is one of the rarest and most valuable varieties. Cypripediom Baron Schroder. This rare hybrid of C. renanthum euperbum and 0. fairieanum was, on a recent visit to the Orchid collection of R. H. Measures, Esq., to be as the seed parent and C. bellatulum the pollen parent. The flower is very wax-like, and is of a dark rose and crimson colour, the petals being very closely spotted ; the broad upper sepal has feathered crimson-purple lines. In form it par- takes very largely of the C. bellatulum character ; altogether, it is well worthy of the distinction superbum. AKunTDS. THE FRUrT_GARDEN. APPLE BISMARCK. ONE is more than pleased to read the excellent opinion formed of this i fine cooking Apple by Mr. J. ' Wright of Gloucester. It is a culinary Apple in the truest sense, and in other ways its brilliant colour and handsome size are sufficient recom- mendation. A few years ago I planted a few trees each of that greatly overrated Apple Lane's Prince Albert and Bismarck. Both varieties crop splendidly, and in this and appearance I could wish for nothing better. At this point, however, the two varieties must be separated. Prince Albert has a comparatively large core, and the APPLE ROUNDWAY MAGNUM BONUM. I have grown this Apple many years, and have come to the conclusion that it is a bad variety to use as a parent for the raising of new varieties. In the first place, it is of too rambling a habit of growth, requiring 80 much space. It is ungainly, too, in its habit, and it is far from being free bearing. These are two points of importance in selecting parentage for future progeny. E. M. GUMMING IN APRICOTS. Many people grow Apricots, but more would certainly do so were it not for that disappointing habit tlie trees have of exuding gum, which frequently results in the death of whole branches. Young trees invariably do well, but well-furnished matured specimens are rarely seen, because it is when they reach maturity that the above trouble asserts itself. I am not prepared to say that there is any infallible means of avoiding gumming and preventing the branches dj'ing away, but the other day I saw a very simple attempt at this, and was much struck with the results. It was in the case of a long wall furnished from end to end with Apricots, and bare spaces caused by the decay of branches, so common on Apricot walls, were notably conspicuous by their absence. I noticed, however, that some of the stems and many of the branches were bound up in poultices of clay, covered with moss and tied on, and this method of stopping gumming is adopted with marked success. Whenever a branch betrays signs of exuding gum the place is plastered over with clay, which in turn is covered with moss, and the whole is bound round. Nothing further is done beyond keeping the poultice moist by watering it fre- quentl3' through a rose can. To show the efficacy of the method one of the poultices was removed for my inspection, and I was surprised to see how the gum wound had healed and now bark had grown over the place. The theory is that the gum is absorbed in the poultice, and the keeping of the clay moist encourages the fresh young bark to grow. Perhaps wax of some kind would serve the same purpose, but the moisture from the clay seems to be an important factor in the formation of new bark. It would be in- teresting to know whether any readers of The April 1, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 197 Garden have had experience of this remedy for gumming in Apricots, which is certainly a detri- ment to the extended culture of this delicious fruit. H. APPLE STRIPED BEEFING. To those about to devote land to the cultivation of Apple trees I would strongly advise the plant- ing of this noble fruit. It is one of the most handsome and best culinary varieties in cultiva- tion, and for baking it is unrivalled. The tree is very hardy, and an excellent bearer. The fruit is in use from October till May, and always finds a ready sale in the market. T. B. Field. DESSERT APPLE RUSHOCK PEARMAIN. It is somewhat surprising when really first-class late dessert Apples are so scarce and valuable that some of those of local fame are not more generally grown. There are still in many rural districts Apples of the highest merit which have been grown there for many years, and by which much store is set, but for some reason their culture remains in a limited area. To a great extent this may be said of the above-mentioned variety, as we seldom find it in any quantity outside Worcestershire and Herefordshire. There are few Apples, indeed, which can surpass the Rushoek Pearmain as there grown at the present season for flavour, briskness, firmness of texture, size, shape, and colour — all that one can desire in a dessert Apple. It is also known in the counties named under the name of Charles's Pearmain, and there are few farm orchards where large healthy trees do not yield heavy crops. We are inclined to believe, however, that many of the growers send their produce to local markets ungraded, and too early in winter when there are quantities of other sorts. The variety improves with keeping, and if selected samples were placed on the market at this season they would not only command a better price, but materially add to the list — really a short one — of first-class home-grown dessert Apples. Richard Parker. GRAPE MADRESFIELD COURT. This Grape has in the past afforded many instances of what appeared at the time peculiari- ties in culture, effects of stock when inarched upon other varieties, locality, and sundry other circumstances ; but when we see this Grape pro- duced under varying conditions in such a high state of perfection as is now so frequent, one is forced to the conclusion that its cultural require- ments are more understood than was frequently the case before it was so common in gardens. To the late Mr. .1. Meredith of the Garston Vine- yard, near Liverpool, now the noted Orchid establishment of Mr. J. Cowan, belonged the credit of first exhibiting this Grape in its true character. This would be about the year 1872. The bunches were quite short, but with immense berries and beautifully finished. So well did this Grape flourish at Garston that one vine of it quickly filled a small vinery, the glass partition adjoining was taken out, and the vine extended into the next house with great success. I have seen many instances of this Grape succeeding well when inarched upon other varieties, especially an instance of its success upon Lady Downe's Seed- ling in a garden near Eastham, Liverpool, where the bunches were of huge size, berries good, and well coloured. I have seen it fail when inarched upon Gros Colmar ; not only were the berries devoid of colour, but they split very much, which is a common fault under adverse atmospheric conditions, want of proper attention in its lateral growth, and border conditions. I have seen very fine bunches produced in a cold Peach house, without the slightest artificial warmth. The bunches produced good berries and colour, sufficiently so to win in stiff competition at a leading show. Given reasonable treatment, an inside border for its roots, and a free rafter space in length and width, with abundance of the right kind of foliage, and immunity from red spider, which is one of its worst enemies, and Madres- field Court, on its own roots, will give a greater weight of high-class fruit of a Muscat flavour over a greater number of years than any other Grape. E. MoLYNEnx. BOOKS. Handbook on Pruning Roses.— We can heartily recommend this little book just issued by the National Rose Society. It may appear to those who know all about Roses that such a publication as this is absolutely needless, an excuse to publish a gardening book, and the forerunner of many books confined to a little corner of garden work. But the truth is, the operation of pruning Roses is a mystery to the average Rose grower. He persists in cutting back the growths of climbers that are to bear their flower burden in due season, treating with undeserved tenderness the shoots of the bedding Roses, and, in fact, doing everything in the wrong way. The object of this book is to help the Rose grower, and surely no garden is without its R.03es in rich abundance and representing many different classes, each of which requires special treatment. The book is freely illustrated with diagrams, drawn so clearly and instructively that it is impossible surely to go astray. The experience here set forth is that of Rose experts, who have taken into consideration all classes of Roses. Copies can only be obtained by those who are not members of the Rose Society through a member, and the price is 2s. 6d. {post free). It is to be obtained from Mr. E. Mawley, the hon. secretary, Rosebank, Berkhamsted. The Country Day by Day.*— Mr. E. Kay Robinson is a keen observer of wild Nature, and in this volume we have a record in which he has set down, so that we can share and enjoy, all the little "happenings" that have come under his notice during a whole year ; and it is so easily written that we are quite carried along the year, while he alternately enlists our sym- pathies with some dire tragedy in bird life, or raises a smile over some little domestic comedy among the beasties ; or, again, paints us a delightful picture of sapphire sea and sunlit sand, as in "Autumn's Beauty by the Sea" (September 30). How interested we become when we arrive at an entry like " The Baby Redshank's Adventure," where Mr. Robinson tells of the redshank's " move " to the salt marsh by the sea, " the long-legged babies, like little puffs on stilts, obediently sneaking by secret ways, past village and farm, swimming the dykes and scuttling across the high roads, while their anxious parents overhead whistle encourage- ment and advice." And we read with quite a feeling of relief that one that had incautiously strayed on to the cricket pitch was caught up and carefully deposited in a ditch by the hedge. One is amused with many quaint conceits of the birds, and delightfully humorous is the descrip- tion of the fox's family party, the " father " fox's pretended aloofness, as if he were not quite sure what kind of creatures the cubs might be, his occasional unbending, until the romp becomes too furious, and he remembers his dignity, for "the line must be drawn somewhere." We might give many more instances of the interest- ing nature of Mr. E. Kay Robinson's book, but after all his writing is familiar to readers of The Garden, and so will content ourselves with drawing attention to the graphic way in which he brings vividly before us the difference in the season travelling from north to south ; as he tells us, in the morning you may have picked the "first wild Rose" of the northern year, * " The Country Day by Day." By E. Kay Eobinson. Fubhshed by William Heinemanu. Price 63. then as the train speeds on you notice in the hedges many single blossoms ; further south still long trails of bloom, until, when you reach your destination, one may say to you, " Wild Roses? Oh, yes, plenty : but you ought to have seen them last week 1 " A new work on gardening at the Antipodes is to be published by Mr. Elliot Stock immediately, entitled "My New Zealand Garden," by a Suffolk lady. The work will be illustrated by views of nooks and corners, and remarkable shrubs and trees in the garden. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— TAe Editor intends to make THE GARDEN helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch 0/ gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the " Ansiliers to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly aJtd concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the PUBLISHER. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Eggs on Peach Trees (Waterloo).— The little round objects that you find on your Peach trees are eggs, I believe, of one of the " beetle mites." If they are they need not be interfered with, as these mites are quite harmless. I will try and find out what they turn to, and if successful will let you know. If you wish to destroy them, dip a stilfish brush in paraffin emulsion, or some similar insecticide, and brush the part where the eggs are thoroughly. — G. S. S. Caterpillars at Roots of Rough Grass {G. M.). — The caterpillars you find at the roots of the rough grass that you are digging up are those of the common Swift Moth (Hepialus lupulinus). They are very destructive to the roots of many cultivated plants, so I should certainly destroy all I could find. I cannot suggest any other way of killing them but turning them up out of the ground and then dealing with them as may be most convenient. It would probably be well to burn the grass with a view of destroying any that may remain hidden among theroots.— G. S. S. Fig Tree Not Fruiting (E. ^.).— Whilst in heated houses Fig trees will, as a rule, give three crops of fruit in one year, outdoors, even in warm situations, they give but one crop, and then only where well trained to a warm wall. Your tree has been allowed to run wild. Your best course would be to cut the large bushy headed branches hard down, then securing quite new shoots or growths from the base of the tree, have those nailed in close to the wall, from 6 inches to 9 inches apart, and so keep all other shoots that may follow, cutting out any that are too close. In that way, and fully exposed to the sun's warmth, no doubt you will get hard ripened wood that will carry fruit. You will also need to severely prune the roots. Open a trench 3 feet from the stem, and fully 2 feet wide and deep. In refilling the trench add a good proportion of old mortar refuse and wood ashes, but no manure. Fork off and remove a few inches of the top soil, and replace with fresh, also adding old mortar rubbish, and on that, for the summer, a mulch of long manure. Plants for Various Borders (A. L.). We think you could not do better than plant tuberous Begonias in the beds on the terrace ; the newer varieties are very beautiful, and the plants last in flower a long time, or you might fill one with 198 THE GARDEN. [April ], 19C5. Carnations. Try Tufted Pansies (Violas) in the border facing east, China Roses, Lavender, and Rosemary in the border facing south, while in the one facing north you should plant Anemone japonica (Japanese Anemone), Tufted Pansies, Day Lily, Solomon's Seal, and Erica carnea. You cannot, of course, expect the latter to grow 80 well as under belter conditions. Creosote for Preservinc: Woodwork {A. E. Hints).— I am sorry to say that I cannot give you any information as to whether creosote if used as a preservative for woodwork against which plants are trained would injure them or not. I have never heard of creosote being used for this purpose before, but I should not think that any injury would be caused if the posts, &c., were allowed to become thoroughly dry before the plants were fastened to them. — G. S. S. Grubs {Miss Holt). — The insect that you sent is the larva or grub of one of the Rove beetles (StaphilinidiE). These insects are decidedly use- ful in gardens, as they are entirely carnivorous, feeding upon smaller insects. Perhaps the best known of these beetles is the long, narrow, black insect commonly known as the Devil's Coach Horse. It may often be seen running across paths, and if interfered with immediately throws its tail over its back and assumes a threatening attitude. Both the beetles and their grubs are carnivorous. The grubs of the Ground beetles (Geodephaga) very much resemble these grubs, and it is often difficult to distinguish one from the other, but as the habits of both are similar it is of not much consequence to which order they belong. I think it may be taken as a rule that any insects that run rapidly are harm- less in gardens, as they are generally carnivorous. Vegetable feeders have no object in moving swiftly. Cockroaches are an exception, but then they will eat anything. — G. S. S. Names of Frdits and Vegetables (Potato). — Out of the thirteen tubers there are evidently three varieties. The nine in one parcel are all alike, and of the four sent two are of one variety and two of another. But we may say at once that it is impossible to name either with any certainty, and as you wish to put the stock on the market, it might become a matter for a court of law if you sold the stock under a name that, after being grown, proved not to be correct. Haulm or tops differ materially, but tubers in so many varieties differ so little, and, still farther, varieties assume one form in one soil and a diverse form in diverse soil. So far as we can judge we think the nine tubers to be Sir J. Llewelyn, the two long roundish tubers to be Sutton's Ideal, and the two white flat ones Snowdrop. But clearly understand these names are problematical ones. It would be possible to find the names correctly only if the varieties were grown with many others, but with some hundreds in cultivation that would be a big job. Erecting a Conservatory (Iveagh). — It appears from your sketch that the space available for the greenhouse is little more than 4 feet wide, unless you put up a structure of sufficient width to allow of the glass door of the morning-room opening into it. If so, your better way will be to erect what is known as a hipped or half-span house, as the plants do not draw on one side so much when growing as in an ordinary lean-to. We take it, however, that you wish to limit your house to the right hand or northern side of the glass door, thus leaving it free to the outdoor air. If so your house will be an exceedingly narrow one, and of little practical use. Instead of this last we should prefer to clothe the wall with a few of the many beautiful flowering shrubs, with a border for a few select perennials in front of the shrubs. Again, a house sufficiently wide to enclose the glass door and the length of the wall, that is, about 20 feet, would require far more attention than an occasional gardener could bestow upon it. For such a structure the half- pin is much to be preferred. This has full length rafters in front, and at the back short ones, extending from the top of the wall to the apex of the roof. The front wall should be about 3 feet high, and on this movable lights IS inches deep, thus making the height of the lowest part 4 feet 6 inches. Before commencing such a structure j'ou should put yourself in communica- tion with some of the horticultural builders, whose addresses may be found in the advertise- ment pages of The Garden, and obtain an estimate, as such firms can do the work more cheaply than an individual, owing to the whole- sale manner in which they purchase the materials, and the conveniences they have for working it up. Growing a Small Orange Tree (Citron). — There is no need to cut otf the Oranges from your plant as long as they remain attractive, but directly they begin to shrivel remove them. The specimen referred to should be encouraged to make good free growth in the moderately-heated greenhouse, an occasional syringing being bene- ficial to it when in the growing stage. If the roots are in good condition Oranges will stand for years without repotting, but if necessary that they be potted the best soil is about equal parts of loam and leaf-monld, with a fair sprinkling of small nodules of charcoal and silver sand. When the plant is not repotted an occasional dose of weak soot-water is beneficial, but liquid manure should not be given, as Oranges are better without it, and the same holds good regarding manure mixed with the soil. Cuttings of the growing shoots are very difficult to strike, and the only way to propagate Oranges is by grafting them upon young seedling stocks, which can be easily raised from the pips. They must be grown on separately in small pots, and the operation is best performed when the stocks are about the thickness of a straw, or from that to a pencil. Side-grafting is the method gene- rally employed, the stock being partially headed back, but not removed entirely till a union is complete. When grafted the plants must be put into an airtight propagating case, and kept closely shaded till the grafts commence to grow. Though, as above stated. Oranges are increased by grafting, the operation is scarcely one that we should recommend for an amateur to carry out. Myrtle Tree (.4. Woodhead). — It is not at all likely that pruning will do your Myrtle any good, as in all probability the roots are in a bad condition. If, as you sa)', it has been kept out- side, it is surprising that the plant is even alive, for the Myrtle will not stand out of doors in the London district, and except in favoured parts of the country it must be regarded as a greenhouse rather than a hardy plant. Still, if wintered under shelter, it does well outside during the summer. The best thing you can do is to give it some fresh soil, such as a mixture of loam, peat, or leaf-mould, and sand, all well mixed together. Take the plant out of the tub, and with a pointed stick work away as much of the old soil as possible. When this is finished you will no doubt find that there is ample room again for it in the tub. Drainage is very essential, some broken crocks in the bottom being the most effective. In potting, or rather tubbing, take care that the soil is worked thoroughly around the old ball of earth, and pressed moderately firm in a uniform manner. When finished give a thorough watering, and stand your plant in as sheltered a situation as possible. As the roots take hold of the new soil young leaves will be pushed out, and it is probable that before the summer is over your Myrtle will have vastly improved. Training Weeping Roses (FairJidd).—Yovi could no doubt obtain wire frames fashioned like an umbrella on which to train the weeping Roses, but iron or wire should be avoided as much as possible where the Rose is concerned. An excellent plan, and one we have found to answer well, is to place a small hoop, made of bamboo cane or osier, beneath the head of the tree, then regulate the growths to it. The first thing to do is to place a stout stake to support the stem, then tie two sticks crosswise at the top, and of the diameter of the proposed hoop. This hoop, which is attached to the cross-sticks, should be about 1-2 inches to 15 inches diameter, or more, if the trees are large ones. These hoops may be renewed annually, or you could have a hoop of stout wire and bind it over with some green material, which does not then make its appearance objectionable, and also danger from the contact between the shoots and the wire minimised. The Ayrshire and most of the Wiehuraiana Roses droop naturallv, and the less training the better. We do not vpant too much formality in the Rose garden, or in any other part. There is usually enough creeps in, however care- ful one may be. Another good plan to make the Roses form shapely drooping heads is to attach some tarred twine to the growth and gently bend it as required, then secure the twine to the stem of the tree. All weeping Roses are best if pruned hard the first spring after planting. They will then have made good long growths by the autumn, which will flower well the following year if left intact at pruning time. You will find that the trees that are lied down as proposed will send out vigorous growths from the centre of the head. These should be allowed their freedom the first season. The following year they are tied down and made to replace some of the older shoots that will be cut out. Spir.eas Imported (B. J. A.).— The Spirsas should be planted at once, but not pruned at all, for any branches cut off now will only lessen the display of flowers. After the flowering season is past any old and exhausted shoots, especially towards the centre of tlie plant, may be cut out. You must, however, avoid severe pruning, more especially the first season after planting. CoRCHORUS (Novice).— The true name of the shrub sometimes known as Corchorus japonica is Kerria japonica, and this flowers on the shoots of the current season. It may after flowering be cut down to the level of the wall, but except for thinning out any old and exhausted shoots, the more pruning is indulged in the less will be the display of flowers. Though so often grown against a wall, this Kerria forms a delightful shrub when in the open ground. Broccoli and Cauliflower (^Voiu'ce).— Bjtani- cally the Broccoli and the Cauliflower are one and the same thing, and though gardeners keep the two distinct, there is really little or no diflference between the Cauliflower and some forms of Broccoli. The Cauliflower is said to be more tender and delicate in flavour than the other. Between the various forms of sprouting Broccoli and the Cauliflower no confusion need, of course, arise, but in the case of the ordinary white form no hard and fast line can be drawn. Artificial Appearance of Pond Made of Blue Clay (P. H. /.).— The conspicuous blue colour will soon tone down after the pond has been filled awhile, but if you desire immediate effect cover the sides and bottom with a layer of soil. Pieces of turf might be pegged on the sides, but the pegs must not be driven in too deep, or your pond will leak. If here and there you would like to cover the sides with rugged- looking stones, provide flat flagstones or slates for the rough stones to rest on, as otherwise they might sink too deeply into the clay. Li5iE Trees Diseased (W. Von Schriider).— In all probability the trouble with your Lime trees is the result of the excessively wet summer of 1903, having caused the heavy clay soil around the roots to become in a stagnant condition. Of course the mischief would take some time to show itself, and it is very probable that the worst part of the attack is now over, as during the last twelve months the ground has bsen gradually assuming its normal state, and with that the roots would again become more active. April 1, 1905.] THE GARDEN. IX. Namks of Plants.— TT. C. 72 — Scilla bifolia. Comte J. Larani.^Q.iiHuUv\5 Ca3sal)a. C. Wcst. — Gf!i. atroptirpurea. W. J. R. — As far as we can decide without cones the specimens ate : 1, Abies nordmaniiiana ; 2, A. bracLeala; 3, A. grandis ; 4, Tsuga (Atiiea) canadensis; 5, Ahietia (A'>ie3) Doiiglasi ; 0, Sequuia sempervirena. ,S. //. 0 (Jradjj —The slirub is Spiiiiei Thuiibergi. Namrs of Fkuit. — //(/. F.— 1, Lnrd Derby ; 2, Penning- ton's rieedling. C. iV. P. P.— 1, Lamb Abbey Pearmain ; 2, Hereford Bieflng ; 3, Reinette Grise. A. D. ^f.—l, Old Hawthornden ; 2, Tower of Glamis ; 3, Lemon Pippin ; 4, Uarvcy's Wiltshire Defiance ; 5, arrived rotten ; G, lidss Pool ; 7, R isemary Umset ; H, JWuddick's Nonpariel ; 9, Reinette Grise. F. V. //.--Apple Annie Elizabeth. Short Rei'LIES.— /'. C. ^.— There is now no doubt whatever that the plant sent is Pelargonium Mnie. Saileroi, a variety sent from the Coiitinenti about twenty years ago. We have never known it to (lower. A. 11. }S'Utoyi. — We have not before met with such a case as yours, and can only suggest that your plants of tlie Kangaroo Vine (Viti^ tr Cissus autarctica) have been scorched liy bright sun following a spell of dry weather. If so, the plant will in all probability soon grow out of this.— — ir. C — The large Fern is Polypodiun aureum ; the small one is a seedling Utechnuni, but, being only in an immature stale, it is impossible to say mure. The other pi mt, of which only the tip of a shoot is sent with- out any iutiuiation of where it is grown, is probably either Vinca alba or rosea. If the flower is white it is alba ; and if pink, rosea. In future please number specimens and give some idea of what they are, as we are not gifted with the power of second sight. The Lycaste Skinneri flower is certainly a very good one. The flowering of Cocos weddelliana has a somewliat weakening effect on the p ant, hence it will be better to remove them as soon as they are sufficiently developed to do so. The variegated- leaved variety of Cyperus alternifolius first originated as a sport from the ordinary green-leaved form, and, in common with a great many variegated leaved plants — the Aspidistra, for instance — there is a tendency to revert to the type. This is far more likely to happen if the plants are potted in lich soil than if a poorer compost is used. Equal parts of peat and loam, with a good dash of silver sand, form a very suitable mixture for the variegated- leaved Cyperus. J. G.— The enclosed spray is Euonymus radicans variegatus, a native of Japan, and quite hardy in this country. Ordinary potting compost will suit it well, say, two parts loam to one part of leaf-mould, and a little sand. It too straggling the plant may be cut back, but in that case do not reput till the young shoots begin to break out. Tiie shoijts that are cutoff in pruning maybedibbled into pots of sandy soil and stood in your frame, where, if shaded from the sun, many of them will root. J. G. — The seed refeiied to is evidently that of Cosmos hybrida, a very pretty annual with finely-cut foliage. It will reach a height of 3 feet to 5 feet, and flowers profusely during the summer months. The individual blossoms much resemble those uf a small single Dahlia, and, being pro- duced on long stems and lasting well in water, they are vtry useful in a cut state. The seed should be sown at once in your cold frame, and, as soon as the first leaf {apart from the cotyledons) makes its appearance, they must be piicked off into pans or boxes ; then, as soon as all danger from frost is over, they should be planted out in the open border, putting them at least 1 foot apart. LATE NOTES. Midland Daffodil Show.— We held a ooniiuillee meeting on lhe24Lhult. to consider the datps of our Daffodil exhibition, and having ascer- tained the opiDion of some fifty of the principal exhibitors, a large majority of which consider the present a very early season, we have decided to hold the exhibition on Tuesday and Wednesday, the 18lh and 19th inst, instead of the later date, the 27th and 2Sth inst. A great many of your readers visit our exhibition, and this information may be of interest to them. — Robert Sydenham. The Government fruit enquiry. The departmental committee appointed by Lord Onslow to enquire into and report upon the fruit industry of Great Britain held sittings on the 21st to the 24th ult. The following members were present: Mr. A. S. T. GritiithBoscawen, M.P. (chairman), Colonel Long, M. P., Mr. C. W. Eadcliffe-Cooke, Mr. Hodge, Mr. Vinson, Dr. Somerville, Mr. P. Spencer Pickering, M. A., F.R.S., the Rev. W. Wilks, M.A., and Mr. Ernest Garnsey (secretary). The committee had under their consideration the draft report pre- pared by the chairman. Testimonial to the Rev. G. HenslOW. — At a recent meeting of the Roval Horticultural Society's scientific committee, Dr. Masters, on behalf of the committee, after refer- ring to the great interest Professor Henslow had always taken in the work of the committee, and expressing the great regret felt by all on his resignation, presented him with a silver tea and coffee service, bearing the following inscription : "Presented to Rov. Prof. (I. Henslow, M.A., V.M.H., by the members of the scientific com- mittee of the Royal Horticultural Society in grateful remembrance of his valuable services as secretary, and as a token of friendly association during a period of twenty-five years." Professor Henslo^v, in repl^'ing, referred briefly to the history of the eonnnittee with which he had been associated since its start, and thanktd its mem- liers for the support they had always afforded him, and for the mark of their regard with which ihey had presented him that day. Obituary: Mrs. Allan.— It is with the very keenest regret that we have to record the death of Mrs. Allan, the wife of Mr. W. Allan of Gunton Gardens, Cromer, whicii occurred very suddenly on Saturday last. Every year Mr. Allan has received visits from many of the leading horticulturists in summer, and we are sure they will agree with us that their visits were always made additionally happy by the kindly manner in whicli Mrs. Allan always welcomed and entertained them The very deepest sympathy of his friends, who are many throughout the length and breadth of the land, will be extended to Mr. Allan and his family in their sad bereavement. — P. Clayton. SOCIETIES. HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES' SCHEDULES. Hawick. — The annual show of this horticultural society will be held on Saturday, August 26. The hon. secretary is Mr. William Oliver, 50, Slitrig descent. MiiUaud Carnation and PicoU'C Sociuti/. — The fourteenth annual report for 11)1)1 is pubtiihed. From it we learn that the fourteenth annual exhibition was held at the EJgbaston Botanical Gardens on Thursday and Friday, August 4 and 5, and was a great success, the blooms staged being of very high quality, notwithsianding the excep- tionally hot weather previous to the show. The committee again tender their hearty thanks to the subscribers and exhibitors in all parts of the country who each year contribute so much to the success of the society, also to the judges whose kind assistance is so much appreciated. The best thanks of the committee are given to the committee of the Birminghsim Botanical and Horticultural Society for their liberal support and handsome medals, also to Messrs. Robert Sydenham, William Robinson, and Messrs. Walker and Sons for the special prizes so kindly given by them. The hon. secretary regrets to announce that the receipts at the last exhibition were, unfortunately, not so large as in 1003, owing to the bad weather on the first day of the show. This has materially affected the balance in hand, and he trusts that all the members will use their influence to induce their friends who are interested in the Carnation to become supporters of the society. Mr. W. H. Barton regrets that he is unable to contiime in office as hon. secretary and treasurer, owing to pressure of business, and the committee consider that the society is exceptionally fortunate in obtaining the services of Mr. T. Humphreys, curator of the Botanic Gardens. Wednesday and Thursday, August 2 and 3, are the dates fixed for this year's show. Croydon Chrysanthemum Society. — The eighteenth autumn show will be held on Tuesday and Wednesday, November 7 and S, at the Pu\)lic Hal!, George Street, Croydon. Prominent in the schedule is the offer of the Croydon Challenge Cup for fifteen cut blooms of Japanese, distinct, and fifteen cut blooms of incurved, distinct. In addition to the cup (value 25 guineas) there ia a first prize of £5 and others. The secretary is Mr. W. B. Beckett, 272, Portland Road, South Norwood, S.E. ROYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY. The first exhibition of the year was held by this society in the Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, on the 22nd ult. There was a very bright though not a large display of plants and flowers. Messrs. J. Hill and Son, Edmonton, exhibited a splendid group of Ferns in variety, that included a fine specimen of Polypodium glaucum giganteum. A certificate of merit was given to Pellea robusta, which has very dark green pinnate fronds about 18 inches long. A gold medal was given to the group. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, had a charming lot of alpines, e g. , Anemones, Primulas, Irises, Saxifragas, Shortia, &c. Silver-gilt medal. The Cyclamens shown by Mr. John May, St. Margaret's, Twickenham, were well-grown plants, and the colour of the flowers good and distinct. Large silver-gilt medal. Miss Adamson (gardener, Mr. Keif), South Villa, Regent's Park, exhibited a bright lot of spring fiowers, as Tulips, Daffodils, Magnolias, Azaleas, Dicentra, &c. Large silver-gilt medal. Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Peltham, exhibited a large group of Difi'odils, alpines, Primula Sieboldi, &c. A certificate of merit was given to Arabis aubrietioides, which has pinli (lowers, Lar^e silver-gilt tuedal. Mr. John R. Box, West Wickham, Croydon, showed an excellent lot of Begonia Gloire ile Sceaux and a few alpines. A new Clove-scented Wallllower-leaved Stock, named All the Year Round, sht^iwn by ilr. H. Mortimer, Farnham, received a certificate of merit. A large group of it was exhibited, and received a large silver medal. Messrs. Ambrose and Son, Chesbunt, were given a bronze Banksian medal for an exhibit of Carnations and DalTudils. A new scjrlet-cerise variety named Flamingo gained a certificate of merit. The Four Oaks Nurseries Company, Sutton Coldfleld, Birmingham, showed their famous undentable syringes and other garden tools. Mr. G. H. Sage, 71, Manor Road, Richmond, showed Bruce's flower displayers. Messrs. John Laing and Sons, Forest Hill, sent Begonias and Anthurinms. Mr. J. Williams, Oxford Road, Ealing, showed rural table decorations, and from the Botanic Gardens Horti- cultural School various apparatu.es were sent. REDHILL AND REIGATE GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. TiiTS society held its fortnightly meeting on the 14th ult- under the chairmanship of Mr. W. Seaman. A large num- ber of members were present. The chairman introduced Mr. Black of Streatham, who read a paper on "Orchids." In the course of Mr. Black's remarks he said it seemed absurd to give such fabulous prices for this particular class of plant, as many beautiful Orchids could be procured at a very moderate figure. It was no doubt owing to this fact that so many beautiful Orchids were to be found in almost every garden. That the Orcliid is becoming more popular every day there is little doubt. Mr. Black dealt at some length with the subject of cross-breeding, in which he strongly advised keeping to one shade of colour rather than crossing with a light or dark one, as the case may be. Much better results are generally obtained than is the case where two decided colours are used. The cultivation of the various species was fully described, also the most suitable compost. The lecturer strongly advised a visit to some of the best collections, as much valuable knowledge could be gained by so doing. In the debate which followed many debatable questions were put to Mr. Black, who answered all to the utmost satisfaction. A hearty vote of thanks was accorded Mr. Black. FENWICK HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual meeting was held recently, when it was arranged that the annual show should be lield on Saturday, September 2. The following office-bearers were also appointed : President, Mr. Alexander Armour, jun.. North Lodge, Craufuidland ; vice-president, Mr. John Fulton, Spuutmouth ; secretary and treasurer, Mr. James Carrie, Post Office, together with an influential committee. 'The arrangement of the industrial department is again entrusted to a committee of ladies. CARDIFF GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. On Tuesday, the 21st ult., the annual meeting was held at the Sandringham Hotel, (Cardiff. Mr. Tom Claike presided over the largest meeting ever held in the history of the association. The balance-sheet was presented by Mr. T. ilalpass, the honorary treasurer, and after a concise report upon the expenditure, stated that there was a cash balance in favour of the association of 9i. lid. , besides outstanding subscriptions which were considered to be secure. The adoption of the balance-sheet was agreed to. Ttie honorary secretary (Mr. John Julian) in his report referred to the pleasure and profit derived from the annual outing, viz., a visit to JMessrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, in which over sixty members participated. Another trip was taken to Mr. J. Basham's, Bassaleg, where they were shown great hospitality. Special reference was made to the scries of instructive lectures which had been delivered by eminent horticulturists. The attendances at the meetings had established a record, which was considered largely due to the hearty co-operation of committee and members, of which Mr. Tom Clarke has proved himself a very able and hard-working chairman. The chairman, in his address to the members, referred to the pleasure it had been to him to have held the office and to find such agreeable unanimity amongst the members, thanking them for their kind support during the session. J. Lynn Thomas, Esq., C.B., F.R C.S., J. P., was unanimously re-elected president, and the whole list of vice-presidents (with two exceptions) and three names added. The usual resolutions of thanks were passed. BROUGHTY FERRY HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. The monthly meeting was held at Broughty Ferry on the 21st ult., and proved to be one of a most interesting character. Mr. .Tames Slater presided over a good attend- ance, and the paper of the evening, which was on "The Practical Culture of the Cyclamen," was read by the author, Jlr. J. W. Rjbertson, Letham Grasige Gardens. Mr. Robeitson's paper was both practical and interesting, and it lost none of its value from the fact that the ;.ftti- discussion showed that some of the members wh'j took part in it held considerable diversity of opinion regirding various cultural points. This led to the kind offer^of Mr. James Simpson to give a prize of a guinea fur the best Cyclamens, the plants to be shown next spring, and those proposing to take part in the competition to hand in their names in May next. It is to be hoped that the compe- tition will be a good one, so that the virions methods of cultivation may be put to a test. Mr. Robertson wag heartily thanked for his ejfcellent paper, THE GARDEN. [ArniL 1. 19:5. ROYAL HORTICULTITRAL SOCIETY. There was a splendid displav of plants and ilowers at the K .yal UurticuU.nral Hall on Tuesday last.. Trees, shrubs, hardy tlowera, Narcissi, Orcliidi, indoor rlowers, and fruit wtre all well represented, and combined to produce one of the finest exhibitions yet held in the new hall. Orchid Committee. Present: Mr. J. Gurney Kowler (chairman), Messrs. James O Brien, R. Brooniaii White, de li. Crawahay, W. B xill. \V. H. Young. A. A. McBean, H. G. Morris. W. U. White, J. Charleswurth, James D )uglas, Francis Wellesley. R. G. Thwaites, Walter Cobb. Harry J. Veitch, Jeremiali Colman, F. W. Ashton, H. T. Pitt, F. Sander, T. W. Bjud, H. J. Chapman, Norman C. Cookson, H. Ballantine, H. Tracy, and J. Wilson Potter. Baron Schioder. The Dell, Egham (gardener, Mr. Ballan- tine), sent a splendid lot of Dendrobiums in great variety. The plants were very finely (lowered. Some of the best were D. superbum (rich lilac-rose, with crimson blotches in the throat), D. wardianum, D. nubile elegans, D. n. nobilius, D. n.ballianum, D. bybridum Rulfe;e, D. splen- didissimum, D. ftndleyanum (yellow throat, pink tipped sepals and petals), D. schneiderianum, D. Editha*, D. Ainsworthii, D. crassinode liarbeiiannm, and many more. Several hybrids raised at The Dell were included. The most prized plant in this group of Oichids was Odonto- glo=sum Pescatorei veitchiannm. Tne fiower is of good form, regularly blotched on the sepals and petals with rich red-violet. The whole stuck of this plant is in Biron Schi Oder's collection. Cut blooms of Liiilio-Cattleya Queen Alexandra were very fine too. Cyniliidium ebnriieo- luwianum was represented by a splendid plant, and several good forms of Odontoglossum crispum were included. Silver-gilt Flora medal. The tii'oup of Orchids from Norman C. Cookson. E-q., Oakwoud, Wylam-on-Tyne (gardener, Mr. Chapman) con- tained some very fine Oduntoglossnms, Forms of O. crispura, 0. Adriai;a3, 0. Pescatorei, O. crispo-harryanura, O. Ciradinei. 0. crispum Prince Leopold, heavily and richly blotched with light red upon a crdam-white ground ; O. xatithotes. pure white except fur the yellow blotched lip ; O. ardentissiniUQi Sybil, and O. a. Djris were among the finest. Dendrobiums, Cypripediums, and La?lio-Catlleyas added variety to this group, which obtained a silver-gilt Flora medal. The Oichids from Messrs. Sander and Son, St. Albans, contained some good plants of Lx-lin-Cattleya bletchley- ensis, Cjmbidiura Lowi-eburneum, Ccelogyne speciosa alba, with curious drooping yellow-brown sepals, insignificant, petals, large expanded labellum, pink in the throat, and white at the apex; Odontoglossnn; crispum The Milky Way, Phaius Cooksonise. P. Plicebe, Lic.ia pulcherrima, and others. Silver Bauksian medal. In the group from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heaton, Bradford, Cattleya Enid (M^ss :c x gigas) was rt-ra rkably fine, and so, too, were L -C. Ctllistoglossa, C. Empress Frederick (Mossiie x aurea), and L.-C. dominiana. L.-C Mercia (Cattleya Schrudeite x Lrelia tlava) is a pretty fiower, with primrose-coloured sepals and petals, and rich yellow lip ; and L-C. Doris is a beautiful apdcot-coloured fiower, the result of crossing L. harpophylla with Cattleya Trial. a?. Epi-LasUa Thalia, Epi-Lnelia Aspa^ia, Phaius Norman, and Odontoglossum harryano-tiiumphana were also notably good. Silver Binksian nieii(i. — A very pretty plant, with pink stnrry-shaped hloasoms on a long graceful shoot, giving a light, elegant appearance. From Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Limited'' Award of merit. Narcixsits Ariadnr. — A Lf^edsii, with large, widely expanded flat tn- «aiicer-lik« crown. Oeantifnlly crimped at the margin. Shown by Messrs. Birr and Sons, Covent Garden. 4w»rd of merit, er precautions are not taken? III. — When would you prune Peach and Nectarine trees in pots ; describe the method you would adopt. IV. — What is the average life of a pot fruit tree when properly grown ? Complaints are often made that pot fruit trees quickly deteriorate. Why is this ? Describe the best method of restoring the trees to health. V. — Give the best six varieties for pot culture of Peaches, Plums, and Cherries, and the best three varieties of Figs and Nectarines. Say which you consider to be the beat one in each case. VI. — In order to have pot-grown fruits of Cherries, Plums, Peaches, and Figs ripe by the middle of May, say when you would start the trees, and give the tem- peratures for each fortnight until the fruits are ripe. VII. — What is the best chemical manure for Cherries, Plums, and Peaches ? (Special concentrated manures must not be men- tioned.) Say why it is the best. VIII. — What is the proper treatment for trees after forcing ? PRIZES OPEN TO ALL, Plan of a Flower Border. A riEsT PRIZE of Five Guineas and a second prize of I'wo Guineas are offered for the best plan of a border of hardy perennials, 130 feet long by 10 feet wide, drawn to a scale of a quarter of an inch to a foot ; bold grouping and good arrangement for colour and succession to be the main considerations. Half-hardy annuals and biennials may be included. The names of the plants to be written in their spaces on the plan —not referred to by letter or number. This_ competition remains open until the last day in September. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. April 6.— Royal Horticultural Society of Ire- land's Show at Dublin. April 11. — Royal Horticultural Society's meeting ; Devon liiffodil Show at Exeter (two days) ; Brighton Spring Show (two days). April 19 —Royal Botanic Society's Exhibition. April 25. — Royal Horticultural Society's meeting ; Chesterfield Flower Show. ^ A Coloured Plate of the D.irwin Tulip Clara Butt will be given with The Garden next week. Royal Hoptieultupal Society.— At a general meeting of Follows held on the 2Slh ult. a paper by Mr. Frank Pink was read on " Banajias from a Commercial Point of View," in the course of which he pointed out that until about four years ago the monopoly of the Banana business was held by the Canary Islands, since when the West Indian trade in the fruit has been most successfully encouraged by the Government giving a subsidy for a direct line of steamers running to and from .Jamaica, and bringing over every fortnight not less than 20,000 bunches. Other lines now run steamers specially equipped for this purpose and without subsidies. The lecturer then described the diffdrent varieties met with on the market, including the Masa Cavendishii, the Gros Michael, and the Claret. The methods of collecting, shipping, and transport were described, and special reference was made to the fostering care exercised on the trade by the Imperial Department of Agriculture in the West Indies. The next of the society's fortnightly exhibitions and meetings will be held on Tuesday next, when a lecture will be delivered by Mr. T. J. Powell on "Retarded Potatoes." British Gardeners' Association. There was a large attendance of members of the Kingston Gardeners' Society and others at the British Gardeners' Association's meeting promoted by the society, and held at the Fife H ill, King- ston, on Friday, the2Uh ult., Mr. E. H. .Jenkins presiding. In the course of his address, Mr. W. Watson, the secretary of the association, said that the need for a gardeners' association was universally admitted, and that the lines upon which it was proposed that the British Gardeners' Association should be worked appeared to be generally approved. Why, then, was there not already an active and powerful association work- ing in the interest of the gardener, as there was now, he believed, for every other craftsman with success? It was due to faintheartedness, and to a far too general disposition to let the other fellow take the initiative and do the work. He reminded the audience that whilst it was impos- sible for the members of the committee them- selves to bring about reform, he was certain that it lay within the power of gardeners as a body to du so. Although the response to the committee'» appeal for members and for money could not be called great, it had been enough to ensure the launching of the association upon the projected lines, and the interest and support given to the association were steadily increasing. He appealed to those present to form a distinct branch of the association. Mr. Jenkins and Mr. A. Dean having spoken in praise of the objects of the British Gardeners' Association, and in favour of the formation of a Kingston hranch, Mr. J. T. Blencoe (secretary of the Kingston society) expressed himself aware of the need for a gar- deners' association, but on the grounds that gardening was a luxury he was sceptical about the possibility of gardeners obtaining fairer treatment. The proposal to form a local branch was discussed, and finally it was decided that a second meeting should be held further to consider the matter. The new building's for the Edin- burgh Parks. — At a meeting of the Edin- burgh Town Council, held on the 21st ult., the proposals of the parks committee regarding pavilions, &c., at Saughcon Park, West Princes Street Gardens, and Regent Road Bowling Green, were approved of in principle, and it was remitted to the committee to submit sketch plans and a probable estimate at the next meeting. It was also agreed to add to the permanent staf}', on account of the new Saughton Park, a foreman at t'l Tis., a ticket officer at .£1 23., a park officer at £1 2i., a green-keeper at .£1 2i. , and two labourers at £1 la., all per week. At the same meeting, notice was given of a motion that it be remitted to the parks committee to consider and report as to negotiating for a lease of the ground at Redbraes as a public park and recreation ground. Bullfinch in the garden.— I hoped that someone more able than myself would eay a good word for the poor bullfinch. Perhaps many felt like I did after reading the story of the olil tree bearing so abundantly that it fell down, that it was a pity not to have thinned the fruit for the sake of the bullfinch. I am sorry to say I have shot them, but always felt sorry to do so ; for years I would have done all I could for them, if they woulil only leave us a crop of fruit. As " E. K. R.," who we all know would not have found them guilty could he have done olherwis*', says, to see them during the dull winter monih-* is quite enough to help us to try something other than the gun to save our buds. I had the mnwU amuning uf bullfinches once, brought up in llio garden shed, very often on Strawberries ; ho never forgot the taste of them. That they like the young buds of Almonds and Peaches, as whII as Snowy Mespilus, I cannot deny. — A. J. K., Breconshire. April 8, 1905,] THE GARDEN. 201 Mellanthus major flowering-.— A fine specimen of this beautiful subtropical plant is now in full bloom in the garden of Mrs. Sauaders - Knox - Gore at Ardmore, Torquay. This plant has stood in its present position for some years, but has not previously fully developed its flowers, owing partly, it is believed, to its being somewhat shaded by a large tree growing Dear. This has recently been removed, much to ■its advantage. For it has this year developed many fine spikes of its curious and interesting flowers. It is, I believe, a rare occurrence for this noble plant to flower in the open, and speaks much for the mildness of the climate of Torquay. It would be interesting to know if any other reader has had similar experience with this lovely subtropical. — J. Madder>j, Torquay. Hoptieultupal College, Swanley. The annual report for 1904 states that the year -opened with sixty-three students, including three scholars from the Kent and one from the Staffs County Councils. Numerous posts were gained by students during the year. In the eighteen months' initial work now under review some twenty-five students have been trained. Our trained students may be found as housewives on Canadian ranches and African farms, and we deed hardly point out the value of practical training to girls taking up housekeeping in Colo- nial country districts. Full particulars of this gardening college for girls may be had from the Principal, Swanley College, Kent. A beautiful Hepatiea.— I am enclos- ing blooms and a leaf of the rarest and most vigorous of all the choicer forms of Hepatiea, •and in my opinion the most beautiful, viz., Hepatiea acutiloba plena. It differs from the ordinary double blue in producing larger flowers ■of a much deeper colour. It is taller and altogether a better grower. Its foliage also is quite distinct. We sold a few plants some ten or twelve years ago, and have only now suc- ceeded in getting a stock. It is apparently a very old plant, but it has never been plentiful. — ■J. Stormonth, Kirkbride, Carlisle. [A very beautiful rich blue flower. — Ed.] Orchids at W^oodhatch, Reig-ate. The collection of Orchids at the residence of Mrs. T. B. Haywood, Reigate, has long been a very fine one. The collection of Dendrobiums has been pronounced by capable growers to be one of the best they had seen. That must be the verdict of all who visit Woodhatch. The plants ■are arranged on stages on each side of the path that runs through the centre of two long lean-to houses, and the vista of beauty that arrests the ■eye so soon as the end door is opened is, indeed, striking. Mr. Salter, the grower, invariably succeeds in getting surprising growths on his Dendrobiums, the stems stout as whip-handles, and running up to from 3 feet to 4 feet in height, the foliage both luxuriant and healthy. This is the result of common treatment, for the suggestion that such growths are due to some ■special maaurial aid is denied firmly. The plants vary in size from seedlings in small pots to many ■carrying several tall stems literally long spikes of bloom in 9-inch pots, and without doubt could the whole body of plants be presented in a group ■at the Vincent Square hall it would be regarded as one of the fiiipst of this section of Orchids ■ever seen there. The houses are lean-to, and the stages trellised and open. The plants in most cases are elevated on to other and inverted pots, and the aim of the grower seems to be to give them all light and air possible, whilst moisture is very moderate. Mr. Salter has raised numerous "very fine seedlings, amongst which are Mrs. T. B. Haywood, flowers very large and deep coloured ; Gloriosum, form of melanodiseus, also melanodiscus giganteum ; M. Silteri, very charming, delicately tinted ; Ainsworthi pictura- tum, Hildebrandti Wardii, the beautiful Wood- hatch variety of Ainsworthi ; Rubens, a variety of purpurascens ; Ainsworthi Virgil, and many others. Description fails to do justice to the collection, and to fully appreciate it it should be seen when at its best. Certainly Dendrobiums are grown at Woodhatch in a manner rarely excelled. Of course there is a large collection of other Orchids, also Phalienopsis, Lselias, Cattleyas, Odontoglossums, Cypripediums in great variety, some fine seedlings, &c. In a tiny basket was a plant carrying fifteen spikes of bright yellow flowers of Oncidium cheirophorum, a very charming Orchid, and offering to suspended pans of Sophronitis grandiflora in full flower, and to great numbers of pots of the white spathed Masdevallia tovarensis, a marked and pleasing contrast. Herbaceous Calceolarias will bo a superb show a few weeks hence, fully 100 plants in 9-inch pots coming on in luxuriant health and cleanness. Cyclamens also are remarkably good indeed, unusually so for a private place, the strain being of the finest quality. Suspended plants of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine that have bloomed all the winter are still masses of bloom. —A. D. Fasciation in Daff'odils.— Last year I sent a photograph of a fasciated stem of N. pallidus priecox, with three flowers joined together, which appeared in The Gakdem of April 16, 1904. There must be something uncanny about this particular bulb, for this spring, in addition to one or two normal flowers, it has sent up two fasciated stems, one with two and the other with no less than six blooms in a head ! The flowers are all small compared to the ordinary ones, but they are all perfect. An adjuining bulb has two flowers on a stem of full size. A bulb of N. cernuus in an adjacent border last year also sported and carried a head of four flowers and one or two rudimentary leaves among them, but it shows no sign of any further fasciation this spring. — S. G. RtiD. A new Orchid from New Guinea. The Au'st7-aliaii Garden, and Field gives particu- lars of a new Dendrobium discovered in New Guinea by an amateur, Mr. E. B. Cox of Walkerville. Among other plants from New Guinea was an Orchid which Mr. Cox could not identify. It was eventually submitted to Mr. Guilfoyle, director of the Melbourne Botanic Gardens, who wrote : "The New Guinea Orchid is undoubtedly a Dendrobium, but has never yet been described. To make certain about it I submitted it to Mr. F. Manson Bailey, the Government botanist of Queensland, who has had opportunities for studying the botany of New Guinea, and, in agreeing with me as to the genus, suggests the specific name of fasciculatum, which I think a very good one, as the flowers are in a dense bundle of bracts. The plant is one more addition to the 375 Dendrobiums known and described." Garrya elliptica. — The illustration in The Garden recently of this useful shrub was charming, and should do much to induce many to plant it. It is far more hardy than is gene- rally thought. If planted in a suitable position we find it quite as hardy as Laurustinus. In cold, bleak districts it is advisable to plant it against a west wall, but in most gardens in the south and west it may be grown as a bush. We have it in this way, and the plants have been in their present position for twenty years. During that time they have only once been damaged by frost. Last year one of these plants made growths 3 feet long, and with catkins nearly 1 foot long. It is growing in an open bed in a position some- what shelteied by tall trees, but in by no means a good soil — it has to share the same as other shrubs. Many errors arise in growing these shrubs, from planting them in rich soil and a very sheltered spot, where growth is rapid and very soft ; they cannot then endure severe cold like those growing on higher ground and in poorer soil. In our ground^i Liurustinus, Arbutus, and Buddleia globosa sufl'er far more where growing in the former than in the latter position. We have very large bushes of Laurustinus growing under Silver Fir trees, and they flower freely every year. Some years ago I saw large bushes of Garrya elliptica at Nettlecomb Cdurt, near Taunton. Few things are more handsome in winter than the long catkins of the male plant. Evidently many are unacquainted with it. Early in the year a florist who had exhibited fine sprays at the Horticultural Hall, together with early- flowering bulbs, told me that it attracted more attention than the other flowers, and many enquired about it. In a cut state I have found it most useful used either alone or mixed with the winter Jasminum. — .L Crook. Plumbago CapensiS.— When inspect- ing in the months of July and August gardens and greenhouses in the congested districts in the East End of London, it was not unusual to find well-grown plants of this Plumbago flowering well. The healthiest and best-managed plants were found in houses which had the roofs kept free from smoke and dust deposits. OocaBionally the white variety would be met with. In gardens the Plumbago lends itself to use in various ways, as it will flower all the summer, and all the winter also in a greenhouse, if properly cared for. It also makes a charming bed in the open in summer. It can be propagated by cuttings made of the side shoots of half-ripened wood, or from root cuttings. They can be struck in spring or autumn if inserted in a propagating case, in which they well root in two or three weeks. Pot into 3-inch pots, and keep in heat until they have made roots freely. In a compost of fibrous loam, well decomposed manure, and sand the potted plants will do well. I have seen it very effective in large vases in the open with Fuchsias, Abuli- lons. Ivy-leaf Pelargoniums, ILa. It also makes a very pleasing pillar plant for isolating on a lawn.— R. D. ENGLISH V. AMERICAN APPLES. IN reply to Mr. E. Burrell respecting our opinion and experience of Apple Graven- slein, " Whether it should be eaten direct from the tree, or picked and stored for three weeks or more so as to have the full benefit of its real flavour," it places us in a similar position to the boy who was asked which of two little girls he liked best, and he replied, "I like them both," and so for the time being solved the problem to the entire satis- faction of his fair questioners. We recommend this variety of Apple both ways, but so much depends on the individual laste. Our own experience, and to those who possess good teeth to enjoy a Gravenstein, is that it must be picked from the tree and eaten at once. A more delicious Apple it would then be difficult to flnd. We hold that the question of taste of Apples is a very wide and varied one to be settled, either by a certain individual or by a selected committee, without a lot of derision. The human palate is very elastic, and somewhat, like fashions, varied in the extreme. How often you will see (simply to illustrate the peculiarities of people's tastes) persons eating green Peas freshly gathered from the haulm and enjoy them, yet when boiled and placed on the table they will pass them by almost, as it were, in disgust ; then how is it possible to judge the taste of the multitude? Then, again, we have proved, and conclusively so, the same Apple, even the Gravenstein, grown by us in one plantation that consists of one kind of soil, and then cultivated in another almost opposite in its composition, the flavour has hardly been the same, hence a good variety will often be brought into bad repute in consequence. If this is not so, how is it, of the many new varieties that have received an award of merit or a first- class certificate by the fruit committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, so few come to the fore. They are short-lived, simply because the person who exhibits his seedling or seedlings has 202 THE GARDEN. [April 8, 1905. a Boil that Buits those particular sorts and gives them the flavour we are seeking for, but when the same varieties are grown in a soil diffarent to that of their childhood they fail to produce that peculiar taste that induced the committee experts to give the coveted card awarded to them. The poor nurserymen are therefore burdened at the present moment with almost double the number of Apples than there is any occasion for, and from this the question arises, should they not have been tried elsewhere before their decision was confirmed? We are of the opinion that it would do the fruit committee of the Royal Horticultural Society and likewise the council more honour, and they would be more appreciated by all fruit growers of the kingdom, instead of discussing and trying to set up a code when Apples are in and out of season, to ascertain what soils suit certain Apples, so that the true flavour may be obtained and enjoyed to perfec- tion. We are aware it would lake some time and trouble. Let the society send a full list of sorts to all the best growers throughout the country, requesting them to mark those that the}' found did well with them, stating soil, and likewise sending samples for tasting. Why not let it be one of the leading features at the next fruit show in October, and thereby thin out many of the varieties which are fastidious as to soil. Variety and not flavour will often carry an exhibitor to victory in competition, even if his opponent has better fruit. How often do we hear, "But look at So-and-so, see how many kinds he is showing," and probably inferior kinds will decide the points. If these suggestions were only taken up they would confer a national boon to all fruit growers. Let us ask, then, how many varieties do our Colonial friends cultivate 1 Ten to fifteen, and those they know by past experience suit their soils and climate, hence their present success. If this were done here we have every reason to believe the tables would be turned, and those recommended by the society planted largelv. Nowhere can Apples be so well grown as in England. England is the home of the Apple, especially when grafted on the broad- leaved English Paradise (noi all). Henry Cannell and Sons. chose certain kinds, but it was certainly a "hit or miss" "happy-go-lucky" sort of a choice, because I lacked the very thing essential to make a choice, that is, a tailing sample of the different Apples. I am a great eater of Apples, both raw and cooked. Tastes differ, so do teeth. My taste and teeth, after fifty years service, prefer a good hard, juicy Apple, and mv favourite for eating is Margil or Pearson's Plate, and for cooking Cox's Pomona. Perhaps some one will kindly tell me whether I can improve on those chosen. Blenheims I care little for. Cox's and Ribstons are very good indeed when well grown, and Beauty of Bith eaten from the tree is a nice Apple. With regard to Gravenstein I am inclined to agree with Mr. Burrell, " there must be two kinds," for a neighbour of mine has had this Apple in his garden for thirty years under the name (local) of Lady's Finger. With him it is a summer Apple, fairly good to eat from the tree. The fruit is long and narrow at the lop, yellow, slightly striped with red in colour, but I have never found in it either early or late that "rich vinou? and powerful aromatic flavour " spoken of by Dr. Hogg. The most practical result of this Apple discussion would be for the Apple growers to take a leaf from the book of the Potato growers. Potatoes of all kinds, true to name, can now be purchased with ease in large or small quantities, but English Apples and Pears, so far as I know, cannot. Why cannot the public be supplied with named specimen Apples and Pears in boxes when the fruit is really in season ? The price of a box might be half-a-crownand upwards according to the weight of fruit it contained. After tasting the fruit, cropping qualities, growth of tree, and nature of stock could easily be adjusted. I^alop. Veld. THE ROSE GARDEN. In view of the discussion in your paper on "American v. English Apples," I send you here- with three fruits of Cox's Orange Pippin— cer- tainly they are my three last, but it is March '20. I have been supplying the table with them up to within a few days. I gathered them when they refused to hang any longer, and I store them in heaps in an ordinary brick outhouse with slate roof. 1 do not know whether it is a generally approved method, but I always allow my Apples to "sweat" in heaps or boxes out of doors before putting them in store, treat them, in fact, the same as roots or hay. — Thomas Bctler (gardener to J. A. Sorimgeour, Eiq., Gatton Cottage, Reigate). [The fruits were of delicious flavour, though wanting in juiciness. A very welcome Apple even so late. — Ed.] Living in an Apple county I am greatly interested in the letters now appearing in The Garden respecting English and American Apples. One view of the matter seems to me to be quite over- looked. Foreign fruit the public can easily get, English they cannot. The Americans appear to have about two sort of Apples that crop regularly, the growers know well how to store them, grade them, and put them on the market where they can be readily bought from half a pound to a ton. The English have a multiplicity of sorts with names as familiar as household words, but the trees crop irregularly, and the fruit itself in a good condition is as scarce to the general public as rare Orchids. My garden is small, but last autumn I thought I would plant a doz3n Apples trees. After con- sulting friends, catalogues, and fruit manuals, I borders for the plants. As to the plants to employ, no doubt pot-grown are the beet. Those splendid well-ripened plants usually supplied in 8 inch pots would furnish the house at once with some good material. If standards are not pro- curable they could be potted up a year in advance and grown outdoors the first season. Such plants when established succeed so much better than plants that are obtained from the open ground. Residents near large cities would find this method of Rose culture a great boon^ as they are debarred from growing this lovely flower successfully outdoors. I shall not give a list of varieties. Even the commonest Rose has a special beauty under glass, but I would say let the Roses he mainly Teas and Hybrid Teas. From these tribes, together with the delightful monthlies and Polj'antha Roses, a succession of blossom may be obtained in May and again in late autumn. Hybrid Perpetuals of the vivid-coloured kinds should not be over- looked, but as they grow best by themselves, pot plants of these could be brought on in pits and jilunged when in bloom among the Teas and Hybrid Teas. Or one of the sections could be given up to this tribe, growing them under steadier conditions than the Teas require. If possible have the roof of the structures remov- able in order to take advantage of the summer weather and rains. P. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. A WINTER ROSE GARDEN. » MONG themany delights of a sojourn upon /\ the Riviera during the winter months / % are the abundance of the Roses. We / \ who are obliged to stay here catch a / \ breath of their sweet fragrance as we pass the florists' shops or saunter through Covent Garden. Now, why cannot we have Rose gardens under glass in midwinter? Of course, Roses are forced abundantly in our large establishments, but 1 have not heard of any attempt to have anything like the summer rosery. Given a suitable structure, it would be quite possible to have pillars of Roses, arches of Roses, standards with fine heads, and bushes of wonderful development. What a delight it would be to step into such a winter rosery upon a cold frosty morning and to admire the charming tints of the varied foliage and the still more charming buds and blossoms ! A structure such as I should advocate would be one central dome-like building with five or six smaller houses leading from it. Tall weeping standards could occupy the central bed, with fine fast-growing climbers flinging their wreaths of blossom from the roof overhead. Here and there pillar Roses could be planted together with half standards and bushes. Instead of the usual doors to the structures leading from the central one I would plant arches of Roses. Under the management of a skilled Rose grower such a Rose garden would be a beautiful feature. The glorious Tea Roses develop in four or five years into huge bushes fully 5 feet high and as much through, and what grand headed standards one could obtain ; for here there would be no blighting by cruel frost, so that we could have our Conitesse de Nadaillacs and Souvenir d'Elise Varilons in fine style. I would urge that the Roses be planted out. They succeed so much belter, and it is no trouble where expense is not considered to thoroughly trench and prepare the THE BRODI^AS. THOSE readers of The Garden who have warm and sunny borders in their gardens, or hot, dry positions and very sandy soil not suited to her- baceous plants, will find Brodiseas of much use. The plants should be grown in colonies or groups, where on the let- alone principle they may be allowed to remaio for some 3'ears to increase. The sunniest border in the garden will be found the best place for them, and in which, for the sake of safety, they should be planted somewhat deeper than is usual for most bulbous plants. Not a few of these pretty flowering plants were grown formerly in the old parsonage garden at Ryde, where the late Rev. H. Ewbank soon found that many of them were much at home in this very sunny garden. Not only so, but the border soil, where many interesting bulbs were grown, was very sandy, and suited the Brodiajas admirably. Early autumn is the best lime tor planting, and the uniform depth of 6 inches should be adopted. In those gardens where the soil is heavy a good supply of grit or sand should he added to the staple, and if necessary rough material below to ensure perfect drainage. The following are among the most distinct : B. coccinea (Brevoortia). — Perhaps the most striking member of the genus. The crimson- scarlet tubular flowers are not unlike in external appearance those of the hard-wooded Correa caidinalis. The wiry stems, 2 feet or more high, terminate with a head of the drooping tubular blossoms, and are most effective. Native of California, and known as the Crimson-satin Flower. May — June. B. capitaia. — This has stems 2 feet high, carrying a dense umbel of violet-coloured flowers. Hardy and early flowering. There is a white form of this in cultivation. North- west America. B HoweUi — A very beautiful kind, with large umbels of blue and white flowers. B. H. lilacina is a charming variety, the soft blue, white-tipped flowers usually command attention. Oregon, &c. B. ixioidet (Calliprora lutea). — A dwarf species G inches or 9 inches high, producing pale yellow starry flowers with considerable pro- lusion in .June and .July. B. i. erecta and B. i. Apkil 8, li*05.] THE GARDEN. 20o splendens are yellow-flowered varieties of distinct shades. A capital pot or border plant. North California. B. laxa. — ^A well-known plant, attaining U feet to 2 feet high, the tubular flowers of a bluish purple hue and freely produced in a large umbel. California. B. uniflora is better known as Triteleia uniflora. It is a well-known plant, and has several pretty varieties. B. congeata, B. grandijlora, and B. Hendersoni are also meritorious kinds, having blue or violet- •coloured flowers. ' B. laclea is pretty, the milk white flowers ribbed with green, and abundantly produced in umbels. B. 1. lilacina, with white-lilac suffused flowers, is an improved form. B. volubilis. — A plant of climbing or rather twining habit, the scape reaching from 3 feet to 10 feet in length, and producing rose-coloured flowers in closely arranged umbels. This species is less hardy than some, and should receive pro- tection. California. E. J. IKIS GALATICA. This interesting little species is a member of the Juno section of the genus, which includes many from that part of the world, it forms an interesting addition to the already large number of bulbous plants from Asia Minor. The colour of the flower varies from greenish yellow to silver grey, sufl'used to some extent with purple, and with deeper purple falls. A distinct feature, which is also possessed by others of this group, is the white margins of the leaves. Kew. W. Irving. SAXIFEAGA KOTSCHYl. Another rare and pretty early spring flowering Saxifrage, with creeping stems, small, evergreen leaves, which are hairy a.' the margin. The flowers are bright yellow, showy, usually from one to three on short sialks, large, and well- shaped. As with a few other species, it is often sent out wrong by dealers and collectors, and I have received S. sancta, S. apioulata, and S. luteo-purpureo. These do not even resemble it, and are not as pretty. A RARE SAXIFRAGE. (SaXH'RAGA rudolphiana.) A RARE Saxifrage, somewhat allied to both S. oppositifolia pyrenaica and S. retusa is S. rudolphiana. It is of slow growth, with trailing THE SPRING STAB FLOWER (TRITELEIA UNIFLORA) ON A BORDER FACING EAST. •early flowering and beautiful forms. It is very closely related to the well-known and popular I. persica, even if it may not be regarded as one of its many varieties. For garden purposes, however, it is distinct enough, although it is not so pretty as the typical form which has the honour of occupying the first plate in the Botanical Magazine. From time to time varieties of this species have been introduced, including pale blue and purple forms. The present plant was found growing by the river Halys. in the mountainous regions of Galatia, in Northern Cappadooia, and was distributed in 1904 by Herr W. Siehe of Mersina, to whom we are indebted for many beautiful, early flowering bulbous plants. Growing at an elevation of from 3,600 feet to 4,500 feet in its native home, it should prove quite hardy in this country. It has been in flower in the alpine house at Kew for some time, and whilst it cannot be compared to the lovely I. stenophylla, which also comes stems and small, hairy leaves, while the flowers are large, rosy purple, and very numerous. It is invariably the earliest of Saxifragas to flower, this taking place in January and February, even before the delightful S. burseriana with its snowy white flowers. Some years ago I found S. rudolphiana on the Alps of Tyrol and Switzer- land, but it is, I believe, very local. AN EARLY SNOWFLAKE. (Ledcojom carpathicum. ) This pretty Snowflake has been in flower here since the last week in January. Although when weak it differs little from the spring Snowflake L. vernum, when strong and well established it is quite 18 inches high, and the large, bell-shaped flowers are produced in pairs, sometimes three to a stem, and are tipped more decidedly with yellow than L. vernus, which is usually green ; the flowers are fragrant. To grow it well it should be planted in the wild garden or in grass, and the bulbs should not be allowed to get dry. The best time for planting is from July till the end of August. Ke.'iton, Kent. G. Reuthe. HYACINTHUS AZUREUS OR MUSCARI AZUREUM. This is one of the prettiest of the early-flowering bulbs, and one which, curiously, is not commonly seen. This is a pity, as it comes into flower when there is little else but Snowdrops ami Crocuses. It should be planted in masses in the border or among the stones of the rock garden. In Scotland the beautiful Cambridge bine flowern open early in March or the end of February, though growing in the most exposed situationn. It is so hardy, in fact, that it often flowers while the snow is on the ground and passes through severe frosts unscathed. About 2 inches in height, it has the appearance of a Muscari, with the campanulate flowers of a Hyacinth. Scotia. CORRESPONDENCE. fThe Editor is not responsible for the opinionJi expressed by correspondents. ) LESSONS FROM CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOWS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] SI R,— As an exhibitor of Chrysanthemums, I have been interested in the notes on this subject. When " A Reader" sayH the Chrysanthemum grown for large flowers only carries one bloom to a plant, one wonders where he obtained that knowledge, surely not from experience, as it is well known that almost every successful exhibitor allows each plant to carry at least three blooms. Surely "A Reader" is not under the impression that large flowers cannot be used for any other purpose ihan the show-boards. If he had been at the Sheffield Chrysanthemum Show last November I am confident that he would have spent more time in admiring the vase class than any class in the show, and for home decora- tion they can be used with equal advantage. If we grew Chrysanthemums that can be bought by the dozen in the market, would our employers admire our taste, and would they not ask if they could not have something superior to the fiowerx that are hawked daily in the street ? It is, I think, best to grow varieties, as far as possible, that are distinct in colour from market-grown ones. I do not wish " A Reader" to think that where large blooms are grown that decorative and single sorts are discarded, for I grow almost as many of these as the others, and I find them very useful for table decoration and intermixing with large flowers. Chas. Jf.nnings. Aston Hall Gardens, North Ferriby, East Yorhs. NON-BURSTING CARNATIONS. [To THE Editor op " The Garden."] Sir, — Mr. W. A. Watts, in his interesting notes (The Garden, the ISth ult., page 160), touches on an important point when he refers to the cultural treatment having much to do with the trouble. No doubt a check when the buds are swelling will cause a contraction of the calyx, and when reaction takes place the petals will develop faster than their covering and bring about bursting. Yet I find a very strong growlli is equally likely to produce the same result, but the point I would particularly refer to is that while many varieties will invariably burst thn calyx of the terminal flower of the main stem, the same sorts, if slopped early, and flowerpil only from the side shoots, will not burst. Mv experience has been chiefly confined to those grown in pots. I have had most perfect flowers 204 THE GARDEN. [April 8, 1905^ most yellow sorts. I grew Countess of Paris, but though a pretty flower, it was given up through not having sufficient petals. This is just the difheulty ; when we get one that never does burst, the flowers are too thin to be of any market value. Even with the best American varieties I find that bursting occurs sometimes. At the last show of the National Chrysanthemum Society I was with a gentleman from America, who was highly amused at the paper -collar a thing he had never seen in A. Hemsley. of the variety H. J. Jones from lateral growths, while those from the main stem have split badly. At the Royal Horticultural Hall we lately had an instance. The plants of the variety Flamingo, from Mr. J. Robson, were flowering from the main stem and had burst, yet I find that plants which have been stopped and flower from the lateral shoots rarely do so. One of the first instances of this that I had was when growing the }'ellow variety Primrose Day. The first plant I had was stopped, and produced thirteen perfect arrangements. blooms from the lateral shoots, and when sub- America. niitted to the fioral committee secured an award of merit by acclamation. In growing young THE SPINDLE TREE plants on, being anxious to flower them early, (EuONYMUS EUROP.EUS ) they were not stopped, and as they had been, rm r. .,m .-, vigorous every flower burst its calyx. I could I [To the Editor or "The Garden."] SiK, — A note on the above tree recalls the fact how seldom it is used in pleasure grounds. As pointed out in the note referred to, its colour, apart from its fruit, is very fine when planted on light soil. It does best on the limestone. On the Cotswold Hills it seems quite at home, for the hedgerows ,are ablaze during the autumn when the fruit is ripe. I believe it does not succeed on all soils, but where it does there is no fruit - bearing shrub so fine in effect for the margin of shrubberies. It will grow into a small tree. I found one on this estate during the autumn of 1903 from 18ft. to iOft. in height, and loaded with bright orange scarlet fruit. This was the finest mass I ever saw. The tree was standing quite by itself, and having ample room, had formed a round - headed bush or small tree. It is easily raised from seed. There is a variety which bears much larger fruit, viz., E. europai!US latifolius. This is a splendid tree for forming an isolated specimen in a sunny position. In the collec- tion atWestonbirt there were some fine bushes of this very fine tree. The fruit is very much larger than that of the wild kind, and when ripe it opens, showing the seed, which is of a bright golden colour, while the outside is orange scarlet. The two colours are most effec- tive. To those looking for ornamental fruiting trees I can recommend these two shrubs or low trees. It is a sight not to be forgotten to see the give many instances, but the above should be , margin of some of the woods in autumn on this sufficient to prove the assertion that flowers from I estate, when the season is favourable to the lateral shoots are much less liable to burst than : setting of the fruit. Of course late spring frosts "^ ^ LILIUM ELEGANS (thdnbergiasdm), (reduced.) This may be planted noxv. those from the main stems. With regard to border varieties, I know that to stop the main shoot, in most ■ instances, means to lose a season's flowering, but even with these the terminal flower mav sometimes be taken off with advantage. Mr. Watts. refers to yellow varieties. I have found Germania do much better when grown on a second year. For pot work only two year old plants have' ever been satisfactory.- And I may add that the best yellow I. have known in recent years is Lady. Audrey Campbell. This has a perfect calyx, good petals, deep colour, and has maintained i its vigorous habit longer than will sometimes spoil the chance of a heavy crop of fruit. For some reason the crop last autumn was not so good as usual. The wood is very hard and straight, and will last a long time. No other wood makes such good stakes for garden use. . Cirencester. . A. raisers have certainly lost ground by discarding, the fringed petalled varieties, which were the- first to be grown for winter flowering, while thfr Americans would appear to have gained by adhering to the same type." I have already given La Belle as one of the best-known whites of years ago, and I place in company with it now the well-known Mrs. Brooks, which may be- regarded as the finest type of w hite-floweredi Tree Carnation to-day. These represent a very old type which is still grown, and a very modera type, both of English origin. Now place in the- company of these two Glacier, quite a modern white-flowered American-raised variety, and we- find these three so much alike in the edge of the petal, in so far as roughness or smoothness is- concerned— all three being obscurely notched — that Mr. Hemsley's statement falls to the ground. As a matter of fact, the great majority of Tree Carnations of English origin are not more or less- notched to-day than the old La Belle of fifty years ago. Many American sorts are just as smooth-edged as La Belle, which, as I have said,. is obscurely notched, while Daybreak and America have a decidedly less rough edge than. most English sorts. Had all the American- raised Tree Carnations been of one type and' much serrated, the thing would be different, but as the case stands I fail to see why Mr. Hemsley has gone out of his way thus to belittle the- English raiser of the past and praise the Ameri- can raiser of these flowers. It is true there are- many American-raised Carnations grown in this country now and have been during the past few years, and why? Simply because the Americans- have seriously taken in hand the raising of Tree Carnations from seed. The flower is immensely popular there, and the climate — the winter season particularly — greatly favours the develop- ment of the blossoms. What the grower in this- country should look to and consider is that type of flower like Enchantress, which, possessing, petals of a nearly uniform size to the centre,, opens much more readily in England in winter. America is of this type also. The more fuU- petalled flowers, as Mrs. Lawson, open badly in England in winter. It is the same with other flowers, Roses, fcr example. A thin flower, as Liberty or General Jacqueminot, is the best ia winter time for the same reason. In Carnations for winter work in England, therefore. En- chantress is a capital type to work upon, while Mrs. Lawson is not. In early autumn and in April and May Mrs. Lawson does well in this country, but it is not so well suited to the sun- less months of the year. On the other hand. Enchantress opens quite well, but in stronger sunlight this, like Daybreak, will, I fear, become washy and too pale to be generally useful at a. second flowering. E. H. Jenkins. TREE CARNATIONS. [To the ExiiTOR OF "The -Garden."] Sir, — It does not appear that Mr. Hemsley (see page 120 of The Garden) has given the least support to his original 8t9.tement that.',' English THE DROPMORE ANCHUSA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — There have been several fine forma of Anchusa italica in cultivation for some lime, but, so far as one can judge from the illustration ii> The Garden, none quite so good as the Drop- more one. I have known one called Anchuea italica annx-na for twenty years or more, and it had been in cultivation in Dumbartonshire for some years before that. It is much finer than the typical A. italica, but hardly, so far as one can judge, equal to the Dropmore form. It is not a true perennial in Scotland, except in a few favoured places, but this is, I think, largely due to its free-flowering habit, which causes it to die apparently from exhaustion. Carstlliom, Dumfries. S. Arnott. BULLFINCH IN THE GARDEN. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] ■Sir, — I read with interest the article on this subject. They are quite a plague in this district, so much so that the County Council are recom- mending the abolition of the close time for this A^'ril 8,' 1905.J THE GARDEN. 205 bird. I waa obliged to amile at the plea put forward that they leave the best fruit trees, and take, In preference, the buds from the commoner sorts. My experience is exactly the reverse ; they stripped a Williams' Bon Chrtitien tree for me, within 10 yards of my back door, in a few hours, while there were several large trees further away, and as to Red and While Currants, I am doing away with them, for I can get no crops. One large Cherry tree is quite dead, owing, in my opinion, to having the buds taken so thoroughly year after year. It is a great pity to destroy birds of such lovely plumage, but it is the only way to keep any fruit. I have shot seven this season, and they are now getting a bit shy, but the mischief is done. 'Lydney. F. W. Harris. THE FLOWER GARDEN. BULBS FOR PEESENT PLANTING. BULBOUS PLANTS. help a great deal towards beautifying the garden, and none can afford to dispense with them. Some of the principal families are very extensive — like the Lily — and embrace a wide range of form and colour. By judicious planting a most inter- esting and beautiful display can be maintained for the greater part of the summer. The spring display of bulbous flowers naturally depends on autumn-planted bulbs, which require to have time for root action before the winter commences. Among those that require to be planted in autumn may be mentioned Snowdrops, Crocuses, Glory of the Snow, and Scillas, which flower in February and March, with Tulips, Hyacinths, and Daffo- dils following close after. On the other hand, there are many, bulbs not hardy enough to stand out during the winter, and which have to be planted in spring, also others which, although quite hardy, may be planted as late as the month of March with a certainty of giving satisfactory results. Among the many things that may be planted now is the African Lily (Agapanthus umbellatus), a handsome plant for growing in tubs, vases, or pots for the decora- tion of verandahs or terrace walks. This is also very effective when planted near the edges of ponds or streams, and in the warmer parts of the country may be left out during the winter with a good covering of litter. The Peruvian Lilies (Alstroemeria) may still be planted on a warm border in well- drained sandy soil, although the sooner they are in the better it will be, as they have already com- menced to grow. When well estab- lished they produce an abundance ' of showy attractive flowers, which ^ last well when cut. Three of the most effective and hardy are A. aurantiaca, A. chilensis, and A. lutea. Anemone, — The Wind flower family contains many beautiful flowering plants of an endless variety of colour most valuable foi: planting in beds or in masses in the border. A succession may be obtained by planting at intervals from October to March, and the later batches should now be planted. Good, richly-manured soil is necessary for their successful cul- ture, and plenty of moisture when growing. The double Poppy Anemones (A. coronaria) have large, semi-double flowers of many colours, and if planted in March •will floVer in June. The St. Brigid Anemones are a lovely strain, with large, semi-double flowers of brilliant colour and graceful habit. A. fulgens (the scarlet Wind- flower) and its handsome variety from Greece may still be planted, but a more sheltered and partly shaded place should be chosen for this later batch. GLADiOLns. — The members of this genus rank amongst the most handsome of late summer and autumn flowers, and should be represented in every garden. The time of planting varies according to the season and locality, but may commence at the end of March and continue to the end of May. They love a deep rich soil and a sunny situation, the bulbs being planted about 4 inches deep and surrounded by sand. Groups are very effective in the border or planted between low shrubs associated with Lilies, Kniphofias, and similar plants. There are several distinct races contained in this genus, comprising an endless range of colour, among which may be mentioned G. gandavensis, with flowers varying from white to scarlet and crimson in large bold spikes. TheButterfly Gladioli form a lovely strain, with flowers of brilliant shades, and handsomely blotched with contrasting colours. They are hardy and vigorous, coming in between the early and late flowering Gladioli. Other strains with beautiful flowers are G. nanceianus, G. Childsii, and G. brenchleyensis, the large-flowered ver- milion-scarlet Gladioli, which bloom just before the gandavensis varieties. LiLiDM. — This genus contains enough variety of form and colour to make a complete garden, for by a judicious selection a succession of bloom may be obtained from May to October. Many require planting in the autumn, but a good number may be planted now. It is essential to have a cool rooting medium with perfect drain- age, and partial shade from the hot sun. These conditions may be obtained by planting between Rhododendrons and other low-growing shrubs. Among those which may be planted now are L. auratum and its varieties, L. Brownii, L. ehalce- donicum, L. croceum, L. elegans and varieties, and the beautiful forms of L. speciosum, which flower in the late summer and autumn. Other decorative summer-floweringbulbous plants which may be planted now are Galtonia oandioans, a handsome plant with' pure white bell-shaped I flowers on tall stems ; Montbretia crocosmaeSora, with elegant branched spikes of brilliant red and golden flowers of various shades ; and the gorgeous flowered Peacock Tiger Iris (Tigridia Pavonia) from Mexico. Of the last named there are several varieties, with beautiful flowers ranging in colour from white to scarlet. A sunny position is essen- tial in well-drained soil, when they will make an effective display in July, August, and Sep- tember. W. Irvino. PROPAGATING EARLY- FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. In many gardens the propagation of the early- flowering Chrysanthemums has been proceeding apace for some time past. There is very little to gain by this early propagation, as the resulting plants cannot be planted outdoors until the first or second week in May at the earliest, and in the meantime the plants are occupying valuable space in cold frames or pit frames that might with advantage be used for other more tender plants. The early-flowering Chrysanthemums never seem to do better than when they are propagated in February and March, and during the latter month cuttings are produced in abundance on the old stools. This later insertion of the cuttings answers admirably, the rooting process being rapid, and under ordinary treatment the young plants make quick progress ; so much so that by the third week in May — an ideal time for the planting — they have made sturdy and bushy little specimens that grow away at once. Early-flowering Chrysanthemums must not be coddled or checked. Old stools that were lifted in the early days of the new year, a,nd those taken up from the border quite recently and placed in a little warmth, are bristling with growths of recent development, and these of a kind that, when detached, root readily enough. The cuttings should be inserted in shallow boxes or in a cutting-bed made up on the side benches of any glass structure available. Loam and leaf- mould in equal parts, both passed through a sieve with a half-inch mesh, and the free addition of coarse silver sand, will make a suitable compost for propagating purposes. The heap must be well mixed before it is used. Water in the AGAPANTHUS UMBELLATns AS A TUB PLANT. {See "Bulls for Present Plantin(j 206 THE GARDEN. TApkil 8, 1905. close conditions prevailing there invariably causes many of them to damp off. A catting-bed made up along the front or back edge of the side benches enables one to raise a large batch of plants in a little while and with comparative ease. As soon as rooted the young plants are transferred to frames outdoors and gradually inured to hardier conditions, until in the end the frame-lights may be entirely removed and the stock rendpred tit for planting outdoors in May. Plant out 6 inches apart when transferring the rooted cuttings to the frames. D. B. Crane. cuttings bytheaidofafine-rosedcan.and maintain , bullfinches, tried the experiment of putting , themselves upon the performance. The wonder a temperature in the glass structure of from 45° outhempseedforthemi This would need to be ' is that there is not such a market for live to 50". If the cuttings flag this should give protected from the sparrows, of course, by a bullfinches as should make the shooting of little or no concern, as under ordinary circum- fence of black cotton ; but, after hearing the them seem not only unnecessary but wasteful, stances, when the temperature is maintained at lamentable tales which fruit growers tell of The bird is very easily trapped and makes an the figures named, rooting process should take ^^^ devastation wrought by bullfinches, one ideal cage bird. It is a nice, comfortable, place within two or three weeks. We do not j^^^^qq^ ijg]p thinking that the experiment gentlemanly bird, and its song, though sweet place the cuttings in a propagating frame, as the j^^ j^g y^Qrih trying. Herapseed is cheap, and pleasing, is never exasperatingly loud or and It IS only during one-third of the year shrill, nor so frequently repeated as to be that the buds need protection. At any rate, wearisome. In addition, the bullfinch has its people who are not exactly "fruit growers," rare capacity for learning to pipe tunes. It but who like to have a good supply of fruit will nest freely in confinement, too ; and if from their gardens, and who like, at the same i the old birds are freely permitted to come and go when the young are hatched, they are said to rear them successfully, although they cannot do this in close confinement, being unable apparently to obtain the proper milk-food for the newly-hatched young from their cage diet. A QuESTio>f OF Supply AND Demand. In London, if you wish to buy a bullfinch, you will have to pay from 2s. 6d. to 5s.. accordins to locality ; and it really seems as though the machinery of supply and demand must be out of joint, when a gar- dener in Devonshire will kill and throw away several scores of birds which might be sold for several shillings apiece in London. Many people have a strong and natural objection to the caging of wild birds, but when, as in the case of the bullfinch, which makes one of the best of cage birds, it is a question of killing or catching, even humanitarian sentiment might beinfavour of the latter. Indeed, if the matter were properly taken up a special trade in cheap bullfinches might be estab- lished, which would not only make it worth the gardener's while to trap the birds instead of killing them, but would also leave a margin of profit on the transaction. There would be human satisfaction, too, in keeping a pair of caged bullfinches when one knev/ this to be the alternative of their destruction. Multiplying Birds. The general question of birds in gardens is full of difficulties, which will become more serious year by year as the birds multiply, in TROPICAL FRUIT. THE GUAVA. THOUGH the Guava as a fruit is unknown in the English market, in a preserved form, either in syrup or as a kind of jam, the Guava enters into general trade. The tree (Psidium Guava) is an evergreen from 15 feet to 20 feet high, originally a native of tropical America, biit inconsequence of the value of the fruits it has long been introduced into India, where it is not only widely cultivated, but occurs also in some parts in a semi- wild state. Two distinct varieties are known, one with a Pear-shaped fruit, and described under the Linnean name pyriferum, and the other Apple-shaped, called pomiferura. The latter is usually pink inside, and the former white, but these colours are not con- stant. The better cultivated trees produceexcellent fruit, with a thin bright yellow rind filled with a pulpy, yellowish, cream-like or red flesh, which has a pleasant sub-acid flavour. The fruit is universally eaten by all classes. The natives mostly eat it in its ripe raw state, Europeans eat it both raw and cooked, or made into jelly, or, as it is generally called, Guava Cheese. The Guava belongs to the very large order Myrtacete, and is allied to the Pimento or Allspice Clove and many other valuable commercial plants. John R. Jackson. Clare-inont, Lympstone. ROUND ABOUT A GARDEN. Mischievous Birds. FROM information received— as the police say — since I last wrote, I fear that there is no doubt what- ever about the exceedingly mis- chievous conduct of the bullfinch in a fruit garden. At the same time, no evidence has come to hand on the point whether it may not be possible to protect our fruit buds by making fences of plants whose buds the bullfinch prefers to those of our fruit trees. Bullfinches, again, are amazingly fond of hempseed, and has any fruit-grower, in a district infested' by THE GUAVA (PSintCM GUAVA) : A TROPICAL FRUIT WHICH IS MOST SUCCESSFULLY GROWN IN SOME ENGLISH GARDENS. (Shown at the Royal Uorticulturat Societi/'s exhibition last Thursday.) time, to see interesting and beautiful birds, i consequence of the humane attitude which like the bullfinch, about the place, might try it. the public has definitely adopted towards them. The mischief which the sparrow does The Bullfinch as Cage Bird. jg always exasperating in spring ; but the Unless .some such device is found to be ^ greenfinch, who deliberately tears off the effective, there seems to be no escape from blooms from Primroses which grow in shady the conclusion that the fewer bullfinches we' shrubberies, as the sparrow does from those have in the country the better, and that • that grow in the open, might be just os bad people who kill seventy or eighty bullfinches if he were equally numerous. The hawfinch, in a winter, as .some gardeners do in the ; who was an extremely rare bird thirty years south-west, are justified in congratulating ' ago, has become too familiar in many places ApiUL 8, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 207 A NEW ORCHID (ODONTOGLOSSDM LAWBENCEANDM). (Given an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural Society on the lUth ult.) as the arch destroyer of green Peas. Cross- bills, still regarded ia most parts of the country as interesting rarities, are shot at sight in others on account of their absurdly- wasteful trick of destroying Apples in order to get at the pips. Even the Tits make Teouble. There are black marks even in the records of the most useful birds ; and, when these multiply, the mischief which they do seems to increase by leaps and bounds out of all proportion to the mere growth of their numbers. In every corner of the country now you hear that the rook, the " farmer's friend," has fallen into evil ways since he began to multiply ; and even the tits, whose general utility in a garden is undeniable, are anathematised by fruit growers on account of their habit of spoiling quan- tities of fruit by pecking a hole in each near the stalk. For this damage the often-recommended device of putting pans of water near the trees, with the idea that it is thirst only which impels them to attack fruit, seems no preven- tive ; and the only effective stratagem seems to be to enclose each fruit in a bag, or to protect it with a disc of paper round the stalk. But when one con- siders the average price which a grower obtains for his fruit, one realises how heavily handicapped he would be if tie had to adopt either of these devices against the tits. Degrees op Guilt. The wholesale damage done by starlings in Cherry orchards, and the ravages of many kinds of birds among the bush fruit and Strawberries, are well known to everybody ; but only observant gardeners are able to distinguish between the degrees of mischief properly attributable to the different kinds. When, for instance, you find that, as is often the case, boys are encouraged to destroy the nests of blackbirds and thrushes indis- criminately in order to protect the fruit you have proof of ignorance. The blackbird is, undoubtedly, more mischievous than useful in a garden during the summer, from the fruit grower's proper point of view ; but the re- verse is the case with the thrush. It is only in drought, when snails are hard to find, that the thrush will raid the fruit ; but, when fruit is ripening, the black- bird will always leave the work of hunting for slugs and worms in order to feast upon it. Year in, year out, the more thrushes you can have in a fruit or vegetable garden the better. £. K. R. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. F ADONIS AMUEENSIS FL -PL. O R the rockery Adonis amurensis is a beautiful spring - flowering plant, and the illustration shows a handsome double form of this good early plant. The yellow blossoms are very pretty, and are rendered doubly attractive by a centre of deep pea-green. It is a valuable plant for the rockery or border. It was exhibited by Messrs. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, at a meeting of the Koyal Horticultural Society on the 14th ult., and then received an award of merit from the floral committee. ODONTOGLOSSUM LAWRENCE- ANUM. M. Voylsteke, Loochristi, Ghent, has from time to time exhibited some very beautiful Odontoglossums in this country, and on the 14th ult., in the Horticultural Hall, he showed the flowers we illustrate. O. lawrenceanum is a handsome hybrid, the result of a cross between O. triumphans and O. crispo- harryanum. The sepalsand petals have a ground colour of rich yellow, but this is visible only at the ends and in streaks between heavy blotches of chocolate- red. The lip is white at the base and lilac- purple above. An award of merit was given to it by the Orchid committee. -'%^.. THE NEW DOUBLE-FLOWBKBD ADONIS AMURENSIS. (Gioen an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural Society on the Uth ult. J !>08 THE GARDEN. [April 8, 1905. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. M AKING CUTTINGS.— Whea it was necessary to produce thovisands of Verbenas and other soft-woodefl plants, single joints, and even half joints, of free rooting things would make cuttings that would soon grow into plants in a brisk hot-bed or propagating case. The knife must be very keen, as bruised tissues will damp and decay. Cuttings of healthy shoots of pretty well any soft-wooded plants will root well now. Cut the base of the cutting close under a joint or node. The sap is arrested there in its downward course, and deposits granular matter. Value of Foliage to Cuttings. — The bottom pair of leaves must be removed, but the more leaves left on the cuttings, if they can be kept from wilting, the sooner the roots will form. This shows the value of surrounding the cuttings with a close, moist atmosphere, and explains the reason why the gardener strikes his cuttings in a close frame, especially such things as are unable to bear the sunshine. Some plants, such as Geraniums, do not require a confined atmosphere. and Cactus cuttings will begin to form roots if laid on a shelf. Evergreen Trees and Shrubs. — When struekfroni cuttings the early autumn is the best time to take them, and the cuttings should, if convenient, be taken off with what is termed a heel of old wood, and need not be more than 5 inches or O inches long, and should be taken from erect branches near the top of the shrubs or trees. The cutting bed should be formed of sandy loam and leaf- mould, with a layer of sand on the top, and made firm. The bed must be either covered with hand- lights, or be made in a frame. • Cuttings of Soots. — Quite a number of plants may be propagated from root cuttings. The thongs or roots trimmed off Seakale, crowns which are taken off for forcing, are always used by gardeners to raise stock for the next season. They are cut into 4-inoh lengths, and laid thick end upwards in damp sand or soil, and during winter new crowns are formed. Other plants which may be propagated from cuttings of roots include Bouvardias and Japanese Anemones. These may be out up small and sown like seeds, and covered lightly with sandy soil. The Bight Treatment of Seedlings. — At this season thousands of plants for the flower beds and borders are raised from seed, for the most part sown in shallow boxes. Their ultimate success depends upon the treatment given in youth. As soon as seedlings are large enough to handle, if they have been raised in heat, harden them by giving more air, and when strengthened a little prick off in other boxes from 1 inch to rather more from each other. The soil should be reasonably firm. Keep close for a few days till the roots get to work, and then give free ventilation and expose to full light. Harden off later and plant out in May. Priming Climbing liases after Planting. — When one gets a good, strong climbing Rose from the nursery, with shoots some 4 feel or 5 feet long, one is tempted to leave them their full length in the hope of getting some flowers the first year. This object would probably be attained, but even then the flowers would not be worth very much, and it would be a great mistake so far as the future welfare of the plant was concerned. Even the strong shoots should be SIMPLE HINTS. cut back to within, say, 6 inches or so of the base, and the result will be that strong healthy shoots will spring up from near the ground and reach the top of a 6-feet high pole, or higher, by the end of the summer. Thus a good foundation will have been laid. The next year the best of these shoots may be left to flower. It is always advisable, however, to cut down one shoot, so as to ensure strong growth from the base. If this is not done the bottom of the tree will probably become bare and unsightly. Planting Lilies.— As a rule Lilies (Liliums) like a moist soil and partially shaded position. Care should be taken to ascertain whether the sorts to be planted root from the base of the bulb or from the bulb and stem also. The latter sorts must, of course, be planted more deeply than the former, for if they are planted too near the sur- face their stem roots will not develop properly. This being the case the growths will be poor and flowers absent or unsatisfactory. Amateurs with small gardens will find Lilium croceum (the Orange Lily) one of the best. L. umbella- tuni, L. Hansoni, L. tigrinum, and L. speciosum melpomene are also easily grown. Sweet Peas in Tubs. — It is an excellent plan to grow Sweet Peas in tubs, for they do remarkably well, and thoroughly repay the trouble. Give them plenty of manure in the soil, for Sweet Peas like a rich soil, and see that there are holes in the tub bottoms, and that the drainage is good. Sow the seeds about 1 inch deep and 3 inches apart ; this will be quite close enough. Protect from birds with wire netting when they begin to grow. Sow one variety only in each tub ; it is much more effective to keep the colours apart than to mix them in the same tub. Good sorts are King Edward, Dorothy Eckford, Cap- tain of the Blues, Miss Willmott, Lidy Grisel Hamilton, Othello, and coccinea. I ' Ejfect 0/ Draught on Plants. — Very little is heard of the disastrous effdct of draught on plants, yet this may explain the sometimes apparently mysterious collapse of plants, especially in small gardens. It is at this time of year partioularl}' that its ill-effects are apparent. As a case in point I may mention that in a small garden known to me numerous Wallflowers were planted in a border immediately beyond the side entrance to the garden, and in the same line with it. This entrance was barred only by a wire gate, through which the cold winds of early spring rush with considerable force, and it is, un- doubtedly, due to this cause that the Wallflowers have collapsed. For some time it was difficult to find the reason of their failing ; wireworms were suspected, for the leaves drooped and the plants completely collapsed, as though the bottom of the stem were injured. It was noticed, how- ever, that the plants on the other side of the garden were in quite good health, and it was this that helped to elucidate the mystery. Those whose gardens are similarly handicapped should provide some protection, as, for instance, covering the gate with canvas or wood so as to prevent the draught. Dealing toith Weeds. — If a gardener is to do his work with satisfaction to himself he must always be up to time. If the work gets into arrears, especially in dealing with our two greatest troubles — weeds and insects — there will be no peace during the summer. Weeds left too long form seeds, which soon scatter and grow, and the work then is endless. Kill the weeds on a bright sunny day, when young, with the hoe, and : the work is a pleasure. The same principle holds good with insects. Attack them when they are few or keep in front of them, and the work is light and satisfaction great. Ferns in Baskets. — Home-made wire basket? are better for Ferns than the shop articles, as they are more easily covered with creeping growth. Some Ferns require no help in this way, the most suitable being Nephrolepis exaltata, N. tuberosa, Polypodium aureum, Pteris soaberula, the Elk's-horn (Platyeerium aloicorne),aud several Davallias or Hare's-foot. For covering the base- and sides of baskets Cissus discolor and the pretty Indian Grass (Panicum variegatum) are very suitable. Planting Marrow Peas. — Draw drills i inches deep and from 5 inches to 6 inches wide when the surface is dry. Isolate the rows, if possible, and let them run north and south. Early Pota- toes, Spinach, or dwarf French Beans may be filled in between. Plant the Peas 3 inches apart^ in the drills, cover with the hoe from each side, tread to make the soil firm, and rake smooth. I£ the sparrows attack the Peas when through the ground, dust with soot early in the morning when the dew is on them. Onions as an Allotment Crop. — It is possible to make a living by growing Onions if the land is good and clean ; if weedy, grow Potatoes or some other crop which can be easily cleaned. In my experience the heaviest crops have beea obtained by sowing under glass early in February in boxes where there is a little warmth, so as to- have the plants ready to set out early in April, having been first hardened off in a cold frame. Plant in rows from 10 inches to 12 inches apart> and 6 inches apart in the rows. The Duke Cherries on the Mahaleb Stock. — 1 never could do much with the Bigarreau on the Mahaleb stock as bushes. In spite of root lifting they still bore no fruit. They want roon> to strike out, but the early and late Dukes were splendid, made short-jointed wood which ripened) up well, and the trees in spring were white witb blossoms, which set well, and the trees, being of compact growth and ' moderate in size, were easily netted up from the birds when the fruit began to ripen. Apples which Fail 07i the Paradise Stoci. — Lord Suffield soon wears itself out on the- Paradise stock. Worcester Pearmain is also short- lived on the same stock. The stock is not .suffi- ciently vigorous for these free-bearing Apples, even when fairly well nourished with rich top- dressing. Without these aids to success the failure is more complete, but many amateurs who plant trees on dwarfing stocks do not seen> to realise how necessary it is to banish the spade- from their roots, and not to plant anything withia 3 feet of the stems. Good Late Applet. — The good qualities of the Sussex Apple Alfriston are pretty well known, but I do not think its good flavour at this late season has been recognised. There are several in the list of cooking Apples which are very good- for eating raw in the spring. Alfriston is one of these, and Annie Elizabeth is another. - 1 an» surprised, when so much is being written about American Apples, that so little notice has been, taken of that excellent late dessert Apple Lord Burghley. It was sent out by a Peterborough man, I believe, and introduced in a luke^arni manner. ' ' , April 8, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 209 GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. RHODODENDRONS, Kalmias, Andromedas, and other American plants should be planted forthwith. It la not essential they should be planted in peat, for they will thrive equally as well in good loam— free from lime— with a good admixture of well-decayed leaves. Unfortunately, this class of plants will not succeed satisfactorily on the limestone. If not already done, add Rhododendron Pink Pearl to the collection, and plant in a partly shaded position for the benetlt of the expanding blooms, for bright sun tends to take out the delicate colour quickly. Apart from these so-called American plants theie are many dwarf evergreen shrubs which should not be over- looked, for they are most interesting, deserving of special treatment — selecting sunny, sheltered positions, as some are comparatively tender, making up beds of good friable soil, and planting, or transplanting, without delay. All are splendid for beds and grouping, and many are fine aa single specimens as well as wall plants. I name a few— a dozen : Osmanlhus in variety, Olearia Haaslii, Diplo- pappus chrysophyllus (syn. Cassinia fulvida), Choisya ternata, Gum Cistus, Escallonias in variety, Berberis in variety, Elseagnus in variety (the golden variety being the brightest shrub I know ; even the best golden Hollies pale in association with it), Giiselinia littoralis, Azara micro- phylla, Desfontania spinosa, and Garrya elliplica. Shrdbby Veronicas.— Another valuable and useful s class, much' neglected. I fear many are deterred from planting these from a notion that they are too tender and unreliable for the embellishment of the flower garden ; but there are many among the species which stand the rigours of the ordinary winter, even inland where frosts are severe, provided care is taken at the outset in choosing for them warm spots sheltered from keen easterly blasts, and there are nooks of this kind in many places, and un- fortunately occupied by much commoner stuff. They are not fastidious as regards soil, providing it is not too heavy and sodden. There are not many dwarf evergreen shrubs that yield such a return for the little trouble and care bestowed, in the way of variety, ample and beautiful foliage, and a long season of plentiful bloom. I suppose V. Traversii is really the hardiest of the group, and is very neat and prim in habit (too much so in some positions and associations) and very pretty while in bloom, but its season is short. Perhaps a shade less hardy are V. salici- folia, V. vernicosa, and V. elliptica, but which, for a freer and more graceful habit of growth and more continuous blooming, leave V. Traversii far behind. (Personally, I cannot write definitely of the relative hardiness of the above, as none are injured here.) Following these come the hybrids, V. Anderaoni and its variegated form, Simon Delaux, Epi Blanc, Purple Queen, and Blue Gem— to name but a few of many good sorts— to carry on the display (a glorious one too) until the advent of frost. Should these have to be lifted and potted up annually under unfavourable climatic conditions, the return is fairly good, even if for only a season, and they are so easily and quickly propagated from cuttings that they may be grown and flowered as annuals if autumn-struck. For the rock garden there are many gems included in the species, such as V. buxifolia, V. cupressoides, V. diosraifolia, V. car- nosula, V. glauco-cicrulea, V. formosa, and others, hardy, distinct, and interesting. Beqonia Tubers, having started into growth, must be cleared from the stages and boxed in light, leafy soil, kept moderately cool and in full light. If space indoors is limited they may be boxed rather thickly, and when fairly rooted and the weather favourable they can be transferred into cold pits, turned out of their boxes, and planted in rough leafy material. This will stick to the roots when lifting for beds and borders, and be of advantage for a fresh start. J". Roberts. The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlck, North Wales.. INDOOR GARDEN. General Remarks.— Many plants require potting now. Caladiums may be potted on singly, or several in a pan if large specimens are grown. It is much better to wait till the plants are growing vigorously before putting them together. Clerodendron fallax should be given plenty of root room till the final shift is reached. Seedlings and oid plants cut back are, or soon will be, ready for potting. Pot up batches of Cannas for succession. Pot on or pinch some of the show and Regal Pelargoniums to lengthen the season of flowering. Give plenty of air on all favourable occasions, keeping the plants cool and near the glass. If not already done, pot or top-dress Francoa ramosa. Another species not so frequently met with is F. sonchi- folia. It has pinkish flowers, is quite as free as F. ramosa, and requires similar treatment. WiNTER-FLOWERiNQ CARNATIONS rooted last autumu will be ready for potting on. Remove the tips of the shoots two or three times to induce bushy growth. The points of the spring-struck plants should also be taken oiit when 3 inches or 4 inches in height. Support the lowering shoots of Malmaisons. Give cool treatment, avoiding draughts. ' Fumigate if there is any sign of green fly. The two latter remarks also apply to Cinerarias and Calceolarias. ; ^tand pn a cool ash bottom for preference. Give weak manure-water occasionally. Olivias flower much better if pot-buund, and unless more stock is required seldom require potting. Plenty of water is necessary during summer. Frequent doses of liquid manure are beneficial when they are growing freely. Place old plants of Euphorbia fulgens (jacquinirellora) in a tem- perature of 00'^ to 05*^ to produce cuttings. These can be inserted with a heel of old wood when 3 inches in length, in a close propagating frame with bottom heat. Cuttings of Begonia Gloire de LoiTrtine and its varieties should be inserted as they attain sufficient length. Annuals such as Collinsias, Clarkias, and Gudetias re(iuire a few stakes fur support. The twigs from half-worn-out brooms wi.l be found excellent for this work. Jiuyal Botanic Gardens, Kew. A. Osborn. FRUIT GARDEN. Pot Vines.— The Vines which were started in November will now be colouring their fruit. They need less atmo- spheric moisture, but there must still be no stint of water at the roots, although stimulants must be gradually with- held as the beiries approach ripeness. Admit plenty of air, both top and bottom, on favourable occasions, and never quite close the top ventilators. The laterals may now be allowed to arow at will. Early Permanent Vines.— Assuming the borders are in a healthy condition and the Vines are carrying a full crop of fruit, thty should receive a good mulching <.f rich farmyard manure as soon as the berries are stored. This should be thoroughly washed in with tepid water on a fine bright morning when a little air can be admitted at the top of the house. The trellis is now properly fur- nished with foliage, and all growth must be kept pinched. In the case of old Vines, where a little growth ib wanted to encourage root action, a leading shoot may be allowed to extend down the liack wall of the house. The bunches should be again looked over and small, seedless lierries carefully removed. If mildew appears a little sulphur dusted on the affected parts will check it. A little should be also placed on the hot-water pipes. Fias.— The fruits on the earlie&t pot trees which were started at the end of the year are ripening. Give them every encouragement to assist development by feeding with liquid manure and Le Fiuitier. The night tempera- ture may now be safely raised to 05^ Keep always a moist atmosphere. Give the trees a thorough syringing morning and afternoon. Damp the floors in the evening with liquid manure. Admit air when the tenipeiature rises above 70°, and increase it as the sun gains in power. Close the house eaily in the afternoon after syringing. Attend to stopping and regulating the shoots, so that the fruits receive full benefit of sun and air, without which the flavour will be inferior. When the fruits are lipening feeding must be discontinued and the atmosphere kept in a cooler and dryer condition, but the roots must receive abundance of clear water or the later fruits will drop. The borders of old-established trees will be greatly benefited by a gcod mulching of horse manure which has well fermented. This not only acts as a good fertiliser, but the ammonia given off will help to keep down red spider. Watering the bordeis must be regularly attended to, and if roots are plentiful stimulants may be given at every alternate watering. Stop the shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf, except where extension is desired. Remove any weakly spray, and avoid overcrowding. Examine the borders of trees growing outdoors, and give water if necessary. A temporary covering should be at hand in case of sharp frosts. The trees aie more susceptible to injury by frost now than when in a dormant state, E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. ORCHIDS. Dendrobiums.— Where a fairly representative collection of Dendrobium species and hybrids is cultivated some of : them will be in flower nearly the whole year round, but I by far the greater number of them have been in bloom I during the past two or three months. So numerous are the different varieties that have recently passed their flowering stage that it would not be possible to enumerate them all here, but a few of the principal species may be mentioned— O. wardianum, D. crassinode, D. primuliiium, D. flndleyanum, D. lituifloium, D. signatum, D. Pierardii, and the numerous forms of D. nobile, also the following hybrids : D. burfordiense, D. Melpomene, D. Wiganae, D. Juno, D. Clio, D. dominianum, D. micans, the melanc- discus and chrysodiscus hybrids, D. Ainsworthii and its crosses, including D. splendidissimum grandiflorura, &c. The majoilty of these plants are now developing new growths freely, and, as the plants quickly send out new loots when the growths are only a few inches high, they should be supplied with fresh compost at once, because, if these tender roots are allowed to become far advanced before repotting takes place, they are apt tn get damaged, and the season's growth may be seriously affected. Plants that are healthy and have sufficient room for further development need only to be resurfaced with fresh com- post. Pick out as much of the old material as possible, even to the drainage, and if the plants are not thoroughly well rooted it is advisable to add extra drainage, so as to lessen the amount of compost. When repotting strong, well-rooted plants, root disturbance should be avoided as much as possible. This may be done by carefully breaking the old pot, taking it away piece by piece, and removing the old soil where there are no roots. Then place the plant in a pot of convenient size, and afford plenty of drainage. For this I use the Fern rhizomes which aie taken from the peat. Previous to use they should be well dried to destroy all fungoid growth. Overpotting should be studiously avoided, as it is likely to be, sooner or later, detrimental to healthy growth. The Best Compost.— For small-growing varieties and young seedlings chopped sphagnum moss, well mixed with small crocks and sand, forms a suitable compost, but lor the larger specimens and strong-growing varieties a small quantity of peat may be added with advantage. For the next few weeks after lepotting keep the plants rather on the dry side, tmt as soon as the young breaks send forth roots muistuie lioth at the root and in the atmo- sphere may be gradually afforded, and as the roots obtain a firm hold of the soil it may be considerably increased. When the plants wre making satibfactnry progress it is gnod practice to syringe well the undersides of the foliage with tepid rain water every nnjrning when Ih^ tempera- ture has risen to its proper standard— TC^ to 7.^"^— if the day promises to be fine, and again at closing time on all warm, sunny afternoons. Dendrobiums with but few exceptions require a hot, moi«t temperaluie such as is generally maintained in the East Indian house or the ordinary plant stove. At the beginning of the growing season it is not advisable to subject the young, tender growths to strong direct snrdight, but towards the end of August they may gradually be inured to full sunshine. All newly-imported Dendrol.iums should at first be placed in crocks only and kept in an intermediate lemperatuie until growth commences, when the plants should be potted and placed in the warmer house with the older and established plants. For the first season imported plants should be placed in as small pots as possible, because if the new roots get into a mass of sodden compost they speedily decay and the young growths make no satib- factoiy progress. Burford Gardens, Dorthiff. W. H. White. KITCHEN GARDEN. Potatoes —The importance of securing a good crop of Potatoes is a fact well known to both professional and amateur gnrtieners, ai.d consequently there is great irecessity fur careful consideration as to what kind of seed will be likely to succeed best in dilfeient localities, and under what conditions of cultivation certain kinds will be most likely to result in a supply of flowery and wholesome tubers. Of the numerous varieties in the market it is a difiicult matter for anyone to say which are the best kinds of seed Potatoes. Experience has taught me that those which succeed splendidly in some places will completely fail in others. A3, for instance, in a garden near Reading I found Macnuni Bonum par cxceUence, and again when I tried it in Wharfedale the result was disastrous. In the first mentioned gaideu the soil was deep and heavy, while in the other it was of a light porous nature. It is there- fore evident that cultivators would do well to depend a good deal on their own judgment in the selection of seed Potatoes. Taking into consideration quality of soil, &c., two varieties which I have never known to fail under any conditions are A&hleaf Kidney and Maincrop. Neither are heavy croppers, but txtth are of excellent flavour, and this I consider of first importance. For the main crop of Potatoes I prefer a plot of ground that was well manured for a last year's crop, but where no manure was given during last autumn's digging. I find a dressing of leaf-soil most beneficial applied either in autumn or at planting time. It is also my plan to dress the Potato plot imme- diatfly after planting with lime in the shell, allowing shout a barrow-load to 9 square yaids or 12 square yards. The sets are planted on the flat in drJHs 3 inches or 4 inches deep. For small growers leave IS inches between the rows, and 12 inches from set to set. The distance for larger growing kinds can be judged accordingly. French Beans.— The time has arrived when this ever- welcome vegetable can be grown in a cold frame, to succeed those grown in heat, and precede those to be grown on an open border. Drain as many S^-inch pots as may be required, and fill to within three-quarters of an inch from the top with equal parts of leaf-soil and light loam. Plant a seed in the centre of each pot, afterwards thoroughly moisten the soil with tepid water. Stand the pots in a temperature of about 70^. A week or so before the plants are ready to be transferred to their permanent quarters have the soil stirred up with a digging fork on the border chosen, and the frame placed in readiness to receive the young plants. By this arrangement consider- able warmth is secured, and little or no check sustained in moving from the forcing house. Allow the young plants to stand in the frame for a couple of days in their pots, then plant carefully. Keep rather close in the daytime, cover with mats at night. Suttnu's Forcing will he found an excellent variety for this purpose. J. JEFFREY. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. STOVE &. GREENHOUSE. GREENHOUSE SELA.GINELLAS. VERY attractive when well grown are the manv beautiful species of Selagi- nella. They may be grown in pots, pans, or baskets, creeping among rocks or stones, suspended in baskets, or rambling under the stage. There is plenty of variation in colour, e.g., different shadew of green, metallic blue, and several variegated forms. For mixing with flowering plants they are very useful. Qaite a number may be success- fully cultivated in a cool greenhouse or in a dwelling-house. With a little trouble good plants can be had all the year round. They require somewhat similar treatment to Ferns. 210 THE GARDEN. [Apkil 8, 1905. \:< Propagation. — This is usually effected by cuttings, except with one or two, which are better if increased by division. A close propagating frame or bell-glass should be used. Spring is the most suitable season, although given suitable conditions they will root at almost any time. Cuttings may be placed in the pots or pans in which they are to remain, or inserted thickly in pans and transferred to their permanent quarters when rooted. They thrive in any light soil. The better the soil the better will the Selagi- nellas grow. A suitable compost consists of equal parts peat, loam, and leaf -soil, with plenty of mortar rubble, sandstone, or charcoal intermixed. Those species which produce rhizomes, or, in other words, underground elongated stolons, may be cut down, top-dressed, and grown on again. Great care must be taken to give good drainage, as copious supplies of water are required at the roots when growth is luxuriant. How many of the bare and unsightly corners of greenhouses where flowering and many foliage plants will not grow might be beautified by the use of a few Selaginellas ! A charming effect is produced by fixing wire netting, cork, or other material a mass ; S. bakeriana, of a brownish green colour, trailing growths 6 inches to 9 inches in length, copiously coned: S. Braunii, a Chinese sptcipo, has woody stems 1 foot to '2 feet in length ; 8. Douglasii, a trailing species, growing 3 inches to 6 inches long ; S. emiliana, a variety of S. cuspidata, especially useful for small pots, bushy habit, 6 inches to 9 inches high, light green when young, becoming darker with age ; S. Galeottei, a long-fronded, graceful Mexican species, this plant is excellent for baskets ; S. helvetica, a dense-growing species, quite hardy ; found in Switzerland, through Siberia to China and Japan ; S. kraussiana is a well-known trailer, often, but erroneously, met with in gardens under the name of S. denticulata, from which it is quite distinct. It is sometimes used as a carpet for summer bedding in favourable positions. There are several pretty varieties : aurea, of a distinct golden colour ; variegata, a white-tipped form ; and two much-crested forms, Brownii and Standefieldii ; S. lepidophylla is commonly known as the Resurrection Club Moss. It has the property of rolling up when dry and unrolling when wet. This is probably due to the wet and dry seasons experienced in its native habitat as TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. SELAGINELLA PILIl'ERA (A BEAUTIFUL GKBBNHOUSE PLANT). few inches from the back wall of a greenhouse, filling with a loose compost, and planting with Selaginellas. Baskets. — Some are suitable for growing in baskets, notably Galeottei, uncinata, plu- mosa, and Mettenii. These should be rooted from cuttings, as previously recommended. Making up the baskets should be commenced from the bottom, placing the young plants between the wires as the basket is filled. Work the rougher material to the edges, so that the fine soil will not fall between the wires. As they grow peg the growths round the basket till covered, when they may bo allowed to assume their natural habit, hanging down, as in uncinata, forming a somewhat ball - shaped growth as Galeottei. The temperature should not be allowed to fall below 40" in winter. Being moisture-loving plants, an occasional syringing will be found beneficial. The best sorts. — S. apue, a densely tufted species, also known as densa ; when 1 inch or so in height it forms a beautiful green, cubhiondike it grows in exposed positions in Mexico, Texas, ' and Peru ; S. pilifera (illustrated) is a closely ! allied species from Texas. Both are better increased by division ; S. Martensii is fairly well known. The variegated form is pretty, but a new variety, S. watsoniana, recently sent out by Messrs. Sander, quite surpasses it. From its general habit it appears to be a very good sport from it. The silvery white variegation spreads throughout the plant. I Others are S. Mettenii, a supposed hybrid I between S. uncinata and S. inacqualilolia ; S. plumosa, a copiously branched species 0 inches to 1 foot in height. Growing in a light position it assumes a bronzy green colour ; S. rubella, a sub-erect species, dark green, turning reddish with age ; S. uncinata, an excel- lent basket plant, and also for covering bare walls. The trailing stems often grow 2 feet to 3 feet in length. The blue tints vary according to the position in which the plant is growing. All the foregoing can be grown successfully in a cool greenhouse. A. 0. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Ansxveps.— TAe Editor intends to make THE Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no inatterwhat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object vntl make a special feature of the ' ' Answers to Correspondents " column. AU communica- tions should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to (Ae -EDITOR of Thk Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on business shmild be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to an*/ desigyiation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. PjSTablisuikg Gorse {H. Seymottr). — The Gorse is very difficult to transplant, and we are not m all surprised at your failure. With regard to the seeds you have sown, are you sure no animals have been able to get at the tiny seedlings as they appeared, as both rabbits and cattle, especially sheep, are fond of the young growths before the spines become hard ? We should advise you to sow again, using no manure, as it is not necessaty, and fence the seedlings with wire-netting so that nothing can get at them. Or vou could procure one-year-transplanted Gorfe at once, and plant them rather thickly, as some of them are almost sure to die. You must be sure to stipulate par- ticularly the plants you require ; they will only cost you a few shillings a hundred. Border I'lants (>/. S. Niven). — For a summer display you will find Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, bronze and yellow Calceolarias, tuberous Begonias, and Fuchsias, with early flowering Chrysan- themums, among the more serviceable. For example, if in one border you sow seeds of Tageles signata pumila aa a margin, pink Ivy- leaved Pelargoniums at 12 inches or 15 inches apart, to be later on pegged down to the surface soil in the next line, and the Calceolarias (yellow) behind, the thrpe would make a good show. In another plan tat 2 feet apart such Chrysanthemums as Horace Martin, with scarlet Fuchsias or Geraniums, and occasional masses of double- flowered Asters from seeds. Mignonette, Stocks, Candytuft, Nemophila, Marigolds, Godetias, &o. , are easily-grown annuals that may be sown in the open air, and if thinly sown produce good results. You would find the tuberous Begonias or Tiger Lilies do quite well in the shady border, and lor an earlier display a few seeds of Migno- nette, or Cornflowers, or white Asters would be very suitable. Neglected Yew Hedges (L. O. B.). — You can treat your Box hedges in the same manner and at the same time as recommended for Yew hedges, but as your hedges form a background to herbaceous borders, you need only open a, trench on the border side. The article you mention was written on the assumption that the hedge would be in the middle of a garden, and the roots interfere with other things growing near them ; therefore the advice was given to cut the roots back and feed them well at home. What you suggest doing re forming a wall to keep the roots back will probably answer to a certaiit extent, more especially if you feed the hedges well on the side farthest from the borders, where you say the roots can ramble as they please. By cutting the roots back on the border side, and leaving them alone on the other, you will find they will be a long time before they extend far into the borders. On the reverse side of the hedges manure should be spread thickly enough to well cover the ground, and be forked in, as Yew and Box will stand any amount of feedini; in reason. The end of April and beginning o(t May were meant by late spring. Apkii. 8, l!)t>.>.j THE gardp:x. I'll KvEROREBNS IN I'oTS {Novke). — The only overgreen Bhrub that flowers between the times ^tated in your question is the Laurustinus, and • hat would be too tender for your locality We I hink that the Aucuba would suit your purpose best, as it is just at home in a fairly shaded posi- tion, and the bright red berries are retained throughout the winter. The plants will ulti- mately reach a height of 6 feet if secured to a stake and prevented from spreading too much at the base. It must be borne in mind that the Aueubas are dioecious — that is, the male and female flowers are borne on different plants — hence it will be necessary to have individuals of both sexes in order to ensure a crop of berries. One male to five or six females will be suflBcient, and, in order to ensure fertilisation when the plants are in flower, the pollen from the male blossoms may be transferred with a camel's-hair brush to the stigma of the female blooms. A bright sunny day should be chosen for this. The Aucuba is one of the readiest of all evergreen shrubs to transplant, so that you may obtain the plants at once and pot them. Apart from being (•applied with water at the roots these freshly transplanted evergreens are greatly benefited by an occasional syringing should the weather be hot and dry. Carnation Growing {Novice). — Throughout the summer and during the early part of the autumn you may depend upon your outdoor Car- nations, but during the greater part of the year your supply must be drawn from plants grown in the greenhouse. For late autumn, winter, and spring flowering the principal varieties grown are those known as Tree Carnations, many beautiful kinds having been of late sent us from America. These last are rapidly gaining in popularity, one desirable feature being their more robust consti- tution compared with some of the older kinds. These Tree Carnations are generally propagated by cuttings taken in February or March, inserted into pots of sandy soil, plunged in, a gentle bottom-heat, and kept shaded till rooted. They are then put singly into pols 3J inches or 4 inches in diameter, according to their vigour, the com- post used being principally loam and sand, with a little good leaf-mould. Directly the roots take hold of the new soil the plants should have plenty of light and air, and the growing points must be pinched out in order to ensure a bushy plant. Then, before the plants become pot- bound, they must be shifted into larger pots, the strongest growers being put into pots 6 inches in diameter, and the weaker ones into pots 1 inch less. Towards the end of May they can be put into a cold frame, keeping the lights off when favourable, but employing them as a protection from heavy rains, for Carnations much resent an excess of moisture. Up to the middle of July any slioots that show a tendency to flower should be pinched off, the object being to encourage good free growth. Towards the end of August the plants roust be taken into their flowering quarters, and that should be, if possible, a light, airy structure where a temperature of 45" to 55" can be maintained. A fairly dry atmosphere is very necessary. A few of the best varieties of Tree Carnations are : Alpine Glow, salmon-pink ; Cecilia, yellow; Enchantress, light pink ; Fair Maid, rose-pink ; Flamingo, scarlet ; (i. H. Crane, scarlet ; Governor Roosevelt, rich crim- son ; Harry Fenn, crimson ; Lilian Pond, white ; Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson, rich cerise-pink ; Norway, white ; Primrose Day, yellow ; Sir R. Waldie Griffith, orange-amber ; Uriah Pike, deep crimson ; Winter Cheer, bright red ; and William Robinson, scarlet. Iris stti^osa not Flowering {E!. A.). — The place where Iris stylosa flowers best is against a wall with a south exposure, and which has hot- water pipes on the other side, such as the wall of a warm greenhouse. It will, however, flower well planted close up against an open south wall where there are no pipes behind it. It should be planted so that the roots are in contact with the wall, pressed closely up against it. After being transplanted Iris stylosa will often miss flowering for one or two years, but when it is established, and in the position indicated, it will produce an abundance of bloom annually. Manure is not required, a good sandy loam being most suitable. Some forms of this plant bloom much less freely than others, the moat floriterous being the typical form with erect, broad leaves, and the form with narrow leaves (var. angustifolia). The variety speciosa has the largest and most richly-coloured flowers, but does not usually flower so freely. Orange Tree in Pot (F. O. Par-fom). — It is difficult to assign a cause for the leaves dropping. It would seem that something was wrong with the roots, as another tree close by is in good health. Perhaps the drainage is at fault. It is a good plan to mix half-inch bones and old mortar with the soil when potting, as they help to keep it open. We can only suggest that either the tree has been allowed to get dry at the roots or, owing either to bad drainage or to unsuitable soil, the roots are unhealthy. Being in a draught or a severe attack of scale might cause the leaves to fall. It is most important to keep the leaves of Orange trees clean, and to this end it is advisable to syringe the trees once a week with a weak solution of paraffin. Try spraying with a paraffin emulsion for scale ; the XL/ AH Insecti- cide is good. The trees require careful pruning, so as to obtain short sturdy wood and an open form of tree ; better results are thus obtained than from trees allowed to grow dense. Strong woody shoots, if not required to form the tree, should be cut out so that they do not rob the others. Smali, Garden {Ernest E. Nihell). — It is necessary to make the soil firm about the roots by treading, and to spread out the roots care- fully with the hand. You do not say whether you did this, otherwise your planting seems to have been all right. It is preferable to use well- decayed farmyard manure. You must prune them now ; cut back each shoot to within three buds of its base ; this will cause strong shoots to grow during the summer, then the following year you need not prune so hard. It is best to do this after plantiner, however, if you want good strong plants. Why not keep all the Roses together on one side of your garden, and make a mixed border on the other side, planting such things as Anemones, Lilies, Hollyhocks, Lupins, Delphiniums, Carnations, Gladioli, Sweet Peas, Sunflowers, Campanulas, Pinks, &c. You would, We think, find this plan to be more effective than the present one. The Hop is too strong-growing unless you have plenty of room. Try Clematis Jaokmaui. Melon Leaves DrsEASED {Plymton, W.). — The leaves were in such a condition that it was impossible to say what was the matter with them. Soft leaves like those of a Melon, if laid one over the other, wrapped in a piece of whitey brown paper, and placed in an ordinary envelope, cannot be expected to travel safely by post. — G. S. S. Freesia Bulbs (Verax). — The opinion of several different persons who have grown bulbs of Freesia refracta alba imported from the Cape is, that while the leaves are particularly developed, they do not flower so freely as those grown in the Channel Islands ; in fact, these last are by most growers regarded as more trust' worthy than any others. True, the bulbs them- selves are not so large as those grown in the south of France, South Africa, or Bermuda (these last are the largest of all) ; but the return in the way of flowers is superior to the rest. The bulbs from South Africa which are being sent here this year should be useful in giving flowers later in the season than usual, but at the same time after the flowering period is over, there is not much time to complete their growth, hence the second season's display is not likely to be a very good one. We ourselves imported some bulbs of Freesia Armstrongi from South Africa, and though they flowered moderately well the first year, the second season there were scarcely any flowers, and it took two or three years for them to become acclimatised. , Annuals for Canary Islands (Grace Money). Any of the following, we think, would be suit- able : Tall-growing. — Eckford's Sweet Peas, Alonsoa Warscewicksii, Sutton's fine-coloured Snapdragons, Nicotiana sylvestris and N. San- derae. Cosmos hipinnatus, and Nigella Miss Jekyll (Sutton). Medium. — Schizanthus Wisetonenais, Calliopsis Drummondi and C. tinctoria atro- sanguinea, Godetias, Balsams, Nemesia strumosa, and Mignonette Machet. Low-growing plants and trailers for baskets, (fee. — Tropseolum lobbianum Prin. Vict. Louise and others, Eschscholtzias, pink and white varieties ; Mesem- bryanthemura pomeridianum, primrose, and M. tricolor, Leptosiphons, Portulacas, Maurandya barolayana, and Lobelia lenuior. Seeds sown in small pots or pans, as convenient, should be pricked off singly, not in bunches, as soon as the seedlings have a few leaves, into boxes, and later on transferred into flowering pots. Small tubs or very large pots do best for Sweet Peas ; three seedlings of one colour are very effective. They should be sown in position without transplanting. As a rule, 5-inch pots should be large enough for single plants like Balsams or Stocks, but it depends upon habit, and sometimes two or more plants look well grown together. The main point is to sow very thinly. Shading from hot sun is absolutely necessary in all early stages of seed-raising, though seedlings must have as much direct light as possible as they grow, otherwise they get drawn. It is also essential to keep the soil fairly moist at all times, but not too wet while the seedlings are young. There is less risk of damping when the seedlings are not crowded. It is difficult to give precise advice as to some of your enquiries. Growing plants generally do well in sunshine if well supplied with water at the roots, but plants in flower last much longer in cool shade. Mesembryanthemums and Portulacas enjoy full sun, however when in flower, and the seeds should be sown where they are to remain. PoT - POURRi OF Roses {Major Parxons). — The simplest recipe we know lor Pot-pourri of Roses alone is to be found in " Home and Garden" (Longmans). A reprint of the chapter, "The Making of Pot-ponrri," appeared in our columns some little time since, and contains very full and suggestive details of tne art, but we give the short recipe alluded to as follows : Put alter- nate layers of Rose leaves and bay salt in any quantity you please' in an earthen pot. Press down with a plate, and pour off the liquor that will be produced every day for six weeks, taking care to press as dry as possible. Let the mass be broken up, and add the following ingredients, well pounded and mixed together : Nutmeg, Joz. ; Cloves, Mace, Cinnamon, gum benzoin. Orris root (sliced), loz. each. Mix well with a wooden spoon. The Rose leaves should be gathered on a dry, sunny afternoon, and the bay salt roughly crushed before using. Orris root may be replaced with advantage by good Violet powder. Sweet Peas (/. G.), — It your Sweet Peas have had plenty of air during their earlier stages, they may in most districts be planted out by the middle of April. Liberal treatment is in their case very essential, and a good plan is to take out for each clump a hole quite 2 feet deep and as much in diameter. Then put a layer of cow manure in the bottom of the hole and work back the soil, incorporating with it at that time some good natural manure. Make this moderately firm before planting. A dozen plants form a very effective clump, and they should be arranged about 6 inches, apart. They must be staked as soon as planted, as if the young plants drop into a recumbent position it is often a difficult matter to induce them to grow away freely. 212 THE GAKDEN. [April 8, 1905. Tarred Rope for Festoons or Rampant Roses (P. H. J.). — Chains hanging gracefully from post to post will certainly be much better than tarred rope. As the Roses would be tied only lightly to the chains, it is not necessary to wind tarred twine or any other material around them. Dahlias foe Cdttivg [J. H. A.). — Cactus: Mrs. BroussoQ, J. C. Qiennel, Violetta, Eva, General French. Princess, Coronation, The King, Aunt Chloe, Britannia, Countess of Lonsdale, and Mrs. Win'tanley. Single" : Leslie Seale, Victoria, Mi«8 Robarts, Polly E^cles, Formosa, Snowdrop, Robin Adair, Beauty's Eye, Colum- bine, Peacock, Tommy, and Dirkness. Elders and Plants Beneath Them (Novice). The much cut-leaved Elder is in all probability that known as Simbucus racemosa tenuifolia, which is far less vigorous than the golden-leaved one referred to. On this account, and also owing to the foliage being finer and thus allowing more light to penetrate underneath, the diffarent plants are not affected by it as they are by the more robust Elders. You may without any risk plant the rooted slips of your Elder to train against the wall, as they will not in any way affect the other plants growing in the bed at the foot thereof. Annuals on Recently - manured Soil (Ifovice). — Hardy annuals are not likely to grow rank and flowerless on recently-manured ground, unless the manuring has been carried to great excess. Among those that can be recommended are Asters (dwarf). Candytuft, Clintonia pulehella, Uianthus chinensis in variety, Eschsohollzias of sorts, Gilias of sorts, Kiulfussia amelloides, Leptosiphons of sorts, Limnanthes Douglasi, Linarias, Mignonette, Nasturtiums (dwarf), Nemophila insignis, Phacelia carapanularia, Phlox Drummondi, Sapooarias of sorts, Seneeio Jicobeea, Stocks (dwarf), Tagetes (dwarf), Viscarias of sorts, and Virginian Stocks in different colours. Daffodils {J. L. S.).— It is quite true that material deterioration does follow the persistent regular plucking of D-iffo.lil foliage when this is used with the flowers arranged in va^es and the like. The only way out of the difficulty is to pluck the foliage of the more common sorts generally, and these being easily replaced would involve practically no loss To our thinking there is nothing suits the Diffodil so well as its own leaves, and, of course, the expert would not think of employing the narrow leafage of any of the poetious forms when arranging flowers of the Sir Watkin or Emperor types. In the matter of arranging foliage with these things, individual taste goes a long way, and we have seen small sprays of Garrya, the twiggy bits of Acers, and even small bits of green Ivy employed in the most effective way. Foliage should be simply employed as a fill, and to throw into greater relief the beauty of the flowers. Sulphate of Ammonia (A. C. i/.).— Without doubt, sulphate of ammonia is a quick-acting and an effdctive manure dressing to plants when the object is to secure luxuriant leaf growth. It does little towards making woody matter, or the production of fruits, seeds, or tubers, and unless the soil contains naturally, or has had given to it in some way phosphate and potash to help create those eleraen's sulphate of ammonia alone will not do so. You may find very good results from dressing your Strawberries and Potatoes with a sprinkling crushed very fine, at the rate of 21b. per rod, once a fortnight, and then well hoed in, but not applied to Strawberries after fruit begins to colour. Too frequent applications would be rather harmtul than good. Shrubs for Clay and Lime Soils {A. G. W.). In giving the list asked for we have slightly exceeded the number wanted, so as to allow you 10 make afinil seleciion For chalky soils you have the choice of the following: Evergreen — Berberis Darwini, orange flowers. May ; Berberis stenophylla, golden yellow. May ; Hollies, green and variegated ; Viburnum Tinus (Laurustinus), white, antumn and winter. Deciduous — Deutzia crenata flore-pleno, white, June; Kerria japonica, yellow, Hummnr; Philadelphus coronarius, white. May ; Pyrus japonica, red, early spring; Ribes sanguineum (Flowering Currant), red, spring; Viburnum Opulus sterile (Guelder Rose), white, spring ; Weigelas of sorts, spring and summer. Tnree good varieties of these are Abel Carri^re, pink; Candida, white; and Eva Rathke, red. For clay soils the following : They are all deciduous— Cornus alba Spaethi, golden variegated leaves, bright red bark in winter ; Forsythia intermedia, yellow flowers, March and April; Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, creamy white, latter part of August or even later ; Rosa rugosa, red, summer; Spir^a arguta, white April; S. Douglasi, rose, summer ; Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom), golden yellow, summer; Syringa (Lilac) of sorts. Two good distinct kinds are Mane Legraye, white; and Souvenir deL.Spath, purple. Evergreen Perennial ("55"). — For a dwarf evergreen for edging some of the following would be suitable: Pink Mrs. Sinkins, white; Cam- panula muralis, blue ; C. pumila, blue ; C. p. alba, white; Aubrietia delioidea grandiflora, violet; A. grseca, lilac-blue; Phlox amoena, rose; and P. Nelsoni, white. These are dwarf, of easy culture, readily increased by pulling to pieces, and have a flowering period of about four weeks duration, after which the tuft is a very pleasing feature. We do not know any hardv perennial with all the attributes you name. If we were asked to name some nearly perpetual-flowering plants for a bed we should say yellow-tufted Pansy Bullion or the pale yellow Ardwell Gem. Either of these flower continuously for many weeks, and may now be planted from rooted cuttings. We do not, however, recommend these as suitable companions for the above in any one bed. Probably one of the most satisfactory arrangements for a single bed would be a thin groundwork of tufted Pansies planted in autumn for spring flowering, and in May insert between the plants tuberous Begonias for summer and autumn flowering. The first, when increased by means of cuttings, last for years, and the latter, if lifted after the early frosts of autumn, only require a cellar to keep them safe and well for another year. Oak Leaves as Manure (J. W. J.). — Silene virginica ia a hardy perennial, growing to a height of about 16 inches, has bright crimson-scarlet flowers of good size, which open in May and June. Oak leaves make the very best of leaf-soil when well decayed. But Oak leaves should bo well decayed before being used as manure. Put them into a heap in the open after well wetting them with house slops or liquid sewage. Some soot may also be advantageously put over them as they are mixed from time to time. The turnings and moistenings, with occasional soot applications, should be monthly, as such moving facilitates decay. Without doubt you have vastly increased the value of your garden soil by the course you have taken in clearing it of rubbish. It may be somewhat light and porous, but in hot weather that drawback may be somewhat alleviated by putting amongst the crops or plants mulchings of manure. Wall Fruit Trees and Flowers (K. B. W.). It is difficult on a fruit tree border that is but 3 feet in width to have any other description of crop, even of flowers, without doing the trees material injury. In proper walled in gardens, where fruit trees are grown on wall", as yours is, it i" the rule to keep from 3 feet to 4 feet in front of the trees always uncropped, and, further, that space is in hot weather commonly mulched with long manure to enable the soil to retain moisture. If the surface soil be dug with a spade, or even with a fork, much harm is done to the flue surface routa of the trees, and when such treatment tends, as is commonly the case, to drive roots down into poor subsoil the trees soon suffer. That the border looks bare there can be no doubl. Could you make an edging to it all round of boxes like those placed in windows, and sow in them Mignonette, or plant Musk or Lobelia, or any low-grnwing plants that do not obstruct the sun's rays? Failing that, sow nothing deeper rooting than a few dwarf-growing hardy annuals. Ekigeron Coolteri {B. J. jl.).^Erigeron Coulteri grows and flowers well in poor sandv soil. That in which you have it planted ia evidently too heavy and rich. Take up the plane and work in plenty of grit with the soil, and also provide drainage in the shape of broken bricks, so that water can pass away freely. Unlike many other Rocky Mountain plants, this is a very free grower, and spreads rapidly, but it is never so happy as when wedged between large pieces of stone, into the crevices of which it soon forces its way. A north-western aspect has been found most suitable, where it only receives the late afternoon sun. Plenty of water is required in the growing season. An open, unsheltered position is not suitable for this plant, and it fre- quently gets injured during the winter. Germinating Onion Seed ( Veritas). — What you read in an old gardening paper in 1S61 wa« probably meant to indicate that hot water applied to Onion seed enabled the germinative power of the seed to be tested, because when allowed to remain in the water for just a few minutes, and then removed, sprouts of a minute character would soon appear if the seeds were fertile. You may, perhaps. Ho better if you wish to test seed in that way. Count fifty seeds, then dip a piece of flannel into very hot water, spread it out, and place the seeds evenly upon it, covering it up at once to preserve the warmth. If the seed is good growth soon follows. It is well to point out, however, that tests of this kind are not always trustworthy, because soil conditions and external temperatures are so different, and many seedn that may germinate in warmth would fail to do so in the soil. We should hesitate to sow seeds soaked ever so briefly in hot water, lest the change to such diverse conditions should lead to premature decay. Rose Gross an Teplitz as a Climber {Rev. O. C. K.). — This brilliant and fragrant Rose is certainly more adaptable for pillar or wall than it is for bedding, although for the latter purpose it is very useful when managed right. As you have transplanted your Rose, you should cut back its growths ibis spring about half their present length. Keep the new growths tied upright to the pole, or nail them on the wall, and by the autumn considerable growth will be made, which should blossom well at the ends of the shoots and also along the growths. Next season very little pruning will be needed ; indeed, its future treatment will be to retain all new shoots almost their full length, shorten back laterals to from 2 inches or 3 inches to I foot in length according to their strength, and every year cut down entirely one or more of the oldest growths, which will compel new wood to spring up from the base. This variety being so very early in starting, is liable to have the new shoots injured by spring frosts, and it is advisable to give them the protection of evergreen boughs, or shade with mats from sun following a frost. This will often prevent much injury and consequent disappointment. This Rise makes a beautiful half-weeping standard ; indeed, so good is it for this purpose that it must be found ere long in every garden in this form. For bedding we should advise annual lifting in autumn. Plant in rather shallow soil if possible, and do not encourage rank growth by manuring too much. Cut the plants back to 3 inches or 4 inches from the ground every season. If any growths during summer are too long, bend or peg them down, but the transplanting will check the too exuberant growth. The plants may be put back into the same bud if desired. ApkiI. 8, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 213 Flower Border (P. C). — Ibis rather late to, begin planting to iexpeot to hive a rejilly good effect throughout the summer and untiT October ; •still, it is not too late. You must, in order to produce an effect quickly, well dig and manure the border. We should prefer to have it 6 feet wide the whole length, but in that matter, of course, you will do as you think best. Partly to cover the old wall you might use the best climbing TropiBolums and Hop. Keep the plants in groups ■of colour, do not mix them indiscriminately. Tlie following would be as useful as any. You will do well to buy good strong clumps of each. It you do this, and plant them in rich ground, you ■will probably be satisfied with the result. Plant ■fairly thickly as you only want the display this season. White : Japanese Ane- mones, Phlox Mrs. Jenkins, _^_ Oampanula persicifolia alba, ' s; white Lupins, Galega, Rocket, Lilium speciosum Krtelzeri, ; Hollyhock, and Sweet Pea Dorothy Eckford. 5/«e.' Ger- man Irises, Lupins, Dsl- phiniums. Campanula persici- folia, Canterbury Bells (blue, rose, and white), Aconitum, Anohusa italica, Sweet Peas (Lady Grizel Hamilton, Captain of the Blues, Navy Blue, and Michaelmas Daisies. Yellow ■and Orange: Various Sun- flowers (small-floweied), Go'den hock, Coreopsis, Evening Prira- iTose, Lilium croceum, L. um- ibellatum, L. Hanson i, L. ■tigrinum, L. fzovitzianum, and Sweet Pea Hon. Mrs. Kenyon. Med: Gladiolus brenchleyensis, Lobelia Queen Victoria, Phlox, Poppies, Geum cocoineum, Lychnis chalcedonicum, Mo- narda didyraa, Hollyhock, Car- nations, Pentstemon, Lilium ■pomponiura, L. chalcedonicum, L. speciosum Melpomene, and Sweet Pea King Eiward VII. You can plant Lilies in the border among the other plants. We should prefer doing this to having them in pots. Those we have mentioned will be most fiuitable. You might grow L. longiflorum (white) in pots and plunge in the border. Make big clumps of Sweet Peas and train them over pyramids of sticks. Use Convolvulus in the same way ; they add to the ■effect considerably. Use plenty of annuals also. Sow these, say, in the middle of April. Linum grandiflorum rubruni (red), Lavateratrimestris (rose). Candytuft (various), annual Chrysanthemums and Sun- flowers, Virginian Stock, dwarf Nasturtiums, Clarkia, Corn- flower, Phaoelia campanularia i(blue). Swan River Daisy, Lark- spur, and Nigella are all good. Make big patches of them. Names op Plants.— C. K'. C— Corydalia bulbosa. W. IF.— Narcissus vatiformis, Letter unfortunatelij mix- laid.— Five forms of Narcissus : 1, N. incomparabllii a.-i>l. ; 2, Bicolor Horsfleldi ; 3, Incomparabilis Sir Waikiii; 4, Emperor (small flower) ; 6, Incomparabilis Cynosure. Stock Hill.— 'Both Nos. 1 and 2 are forms of Cupressus lawsonlana, an exceedingly beautiful conifer, and very variable when raised from seed. S. H. H.-Nn. 6: 'Ilie Fern is Polypodium (Pliymatodes) Billardieri. M. A. W.—l, Strobilanthea Dyerianus ; 2, Panax Victoria; 5, Begonia Dregei ; i, Abutilon megapotamicum, also known as A. vexillarium. It is a Rreat pleasure to receive such good, carefully packed specimens as yours. W. H. —Narcissus odorus. introducing new plants, not of the Rose only, but of zonal Pelargoniums, Hollyhocks, Phloxes, Camellias, and other flowers ; and with regard to fruits and hardy trees and shrubs, collections of unusual interest and importance have been formed at Waltham to add to the cosmopolitan nature of the nurseries. The writer enjoys a visit to Waltham Cross more thoroughly in the fulness of Rose-time than at any other season of the year, and of course this is natural. There is something satisfy- ing in the burdens of odorous blo.=som. Some new Rose, perhaps, is flowering for the first time, and one learns much about its habit and freedom ; or a large group of one of Mr. Paul's own seedlings is in beauty, maybe the delicate lemon Tea Medea, the varied - hued Corinna, the China Rose Duke of York, Queen Mab, or one of the latest of all Tea-scented Roses, En- chantress, which has already entered the gardens of all ardent rosarians. " But we are wandering from the path. It i^ Mr. Paul himself that must be written of now, and the good work he has accomplished fur English gardening through a long and happy life. Of his success as a raiser we have already spoken, but Mr. Paul possesses considerable literary gifts. A list of excellent works has been written by him at various periods of his life. 'The Rose Garden' was first published in 1848, and tliis has reached its ninth edition, evidence of its popularity and usefulness as a treatite upon the history and culture of the 214 THE GARDEN. [April' 8, 1905. flowerso entwined around the life of the author. Other books upon horticultural subjects have been written, and various gardening journals have from time to time received the benefit of his wide experience and mature judgment. Much could be written of the papers read before the Society of Arts, the Royal Society of Literature, the British Association for the Advancement of Science, the Royal Horticul- tural Society, and kindred institutions, as the subjects are varied, interesting, and instruc- tive, but the principal lectures and papers are embodied in ' Contributions to Horticultural Literature, 1843— 1892,' from his busy pen. In 18.58 the National Rose Society was formed, and that year marked an epoch surely in tbe history of horticulture in Britain. Among those who joined round the Dean of Roche.ster in starting this interesting association of Rose amateurs and professional growers was our friend. The year after, whilst holding part of the original nurseries, he founded the now world-famous establishment in the quiet Hertfordshire town. Those who remember the International Horticultural E-xhibition in London in 1866 will recall the glorious Roses from Walthara Cross, flowers which won many prizes for their freshness and beauty. This was probably the most im- portant exhibition of plants, flowers, and fruit ever held in these isles, and we shall not easily forget tbe rare evergreens and plants from Waltham Cross at the special exhibitions at Regent's Park (Royal Botanic Society), the Crystal Palace, and elsewhere, a reputation that has been strengthened by the displays of recent years. The exhibit of pot Roses at the Temple show of the Royal Horticultural Society last year was an in- structive representation of the Rose as a jiot plant and otherwise, varieties modern and long-established in our gardens forming a group of flowers of wonderful colour, and drenching with their perfume the spacious tent. " With such a record it is not surprising to know that Mr. Paul is a Fellow of the Linnean Society, and one of the oldest Fellows of the R.H.S., besides a member of many other associations at home and abroad. " It is interesting to read in his contribu- tions to horticultural literature an article written to The Florist of May, 1869. In those days many flowers were in the hands of men who considered that floricultural beauty was displayed in petals patted upon green boxes at the exhibitions. This was distorting Nature in no undecided fashion, and to write against such a travesty of everything that was beautiful in the flower was to incur the heavy wrath of the school of florists of that day. In his article called ' Floriculture and Millinery' Mr. Paul writes the following words, which may be applied sometimes even in these days of supposed greater refinement in the use of the flowers of garden and field : ' We are free to admit that a plant must be tied up, and this is better done neatly and with taste than in a careless or bungling manner. Flowers, too, should be so placed in their stands that they may be well seen, and the colours should be so assorted and arranged that they may enhance rather than detract from the beauty and ett'ect of its neighbour. Thus far we concede — nay, consider necessary and commendable. Bat the flattening of Pansies by pressure to meet the florist's canon that Pansies should be Hat, the gumming and brushing of the petals of Pelargoniums, the artificial packing of the petals of Carnations, the building up of Dahlias, the pinning of Hyacinths — all these practices are in our judgment of questionable taste, and of even more questionable honesty. By the use of them we may approach more nearly to the florist's ideal, but we are reaching that ideal by trickery and deception rather than by horticultural skill and honest labour.' This is pleasant reading. " In the course of a long life this famous rosarian has been associated with most of the well-known writers and workers in the field of horticulture, including Loudon, Dr. Lindley, Sir J. Paxton, Dr. Hogg, Thomas Moore, and Robert Fortune." The volume of The Garden for raid- summer, 1903, was dedicated to Mr. Paul. We who have enjoyed many happy hours amongst the books with Mr. Paul know how great is his loss to English horticulture. His collection of horticultural and scientific works was famous for its extent and rarity of editions. A long and happy life has been spent at Waltham House, once the residence of Anthony Trollope, and we know that his family has the sympathy of all who have admired the work accomplished by the late famous horticulturist. Mr. Paul was a man of considerable culture, dignified presence, and much kindliness of heart. We shall miss him, though since the death of his wife a few years ago his health has gradually failed. A paralytic stroke in June last was the beginning of the end which came quietly on the last day of March. The funeral took place on the 4th inst. in the family vault in Cheshunt Cemetery. A LETTER FROM MENTONE THE reports about the weather in the Riviera in the London papers have, 1 think, not been quite just It la true tliat the frosts at the end of D'icember seriously affected the Roses, which until that period were full ot flowers and buds, and it also crippled the Violets and other flowers ; but on my arrival on January 14 I could not see much serious damage to the vegetation generally. lii the valle3's the cold blasts had stripped the foliage from the Lemon trees, destroying the year's crop except where sheltering rocks or trees had saved them. The Oranges seem to have suffered less, and the small-leaved Mandarin and Tangerine appeared quite unharmed. Aa in England, the froat has been more severe in certain places ; some Eucalyp- tus and Ficus macrophylla had tneir leaves scorched, whde others were quite untouched. Large bushes of Ditura were cut back, but on the stone walls and houses Geraniums, especially the Ivy-leaved kinds, with Heliotrope were not injured, and only a few of the more lender Aloes are frosted. The promontories of Cap Martin, Monte Carlo, and La Mortola have practically escaped, and these tine gardens, although flowers are later than usual, are, aa I write, very beautiful. The Cine- rarias, Primula sinensis. Cyclamen persicum, and Pansies, with Freesias, Anemones, and Roman Hyacinths are very bright. Residents say that it is seventy years since such cold weather has been experienced. It ia eaid that no rain fell from December 10 to January 17, and again from February 20 to MArch 24, but the water de- ficiency was not so serious as was stated. Vegetables are abundant; there are salads in great variety. Of fresh fruits there are good Reinetle du Canada and Mela Carlo Apples, Montignan (Jrapes, and a decent Pear which 1 have failed to get the name of. It is said to come from Spiiii, but the Apples are Italian, and heavily-laden trollies of these in baskets of 401b. to 501b. each are put on rail here for Berlin and ' Paris. It is singular that the growers of Stocks confine themselves mostly to white, pale blush, and pink, omitting those glorious scarlet and violet shades we like so much in England. The Carna- tions and Stocks are grown in beds about 4 feet wide, and are covered with rush mats or canvas on cold nights. The best are, I think, grown in frames under glass, as are also the exquisite Turban Ranunculus. The supply is, perhaps, less than usual, and the fetes and battle of flowers make them expensive to purchase. A few forced Rises, like Mme. Gabriel Luizet, are in the shops, and the glorious Acacia dealbata is strongly in evidence. The trees of this rival our Liburnums, and other species are very showy. The charm of this district undoubtedly lies in the tropical vegetation. The only Palms which seem to be tender are Rhapis, Seaforthia, and Lalania. Daring the drought of June to October all the grass dries up, and a yearly fresh sowing is made in November. This is now a beautiful deep green. Besides the flowers named, there are Megasea cordifolia and Primula ohoonica. Violets Victoria and Princess of Wales, with a pretty dwarf Virginian Stock, are most effective, and for an edging lonopsidium acaule, with its neat grey flowers, and Daisies, wliich, being from seed, are not so effective as our British sorts of one colour. The American Aloes, Agaves, Yuccas, and succulents, and the other serai-tropical trees, and the climbers on pergolas and on the wonderful stone walls I must endeavour to deal with in another paper. In conclusion, I can only say that for horticul- tural interest and entire change from British gardening methods, this district, with its azure sea, bold mountains, Olive orchards, and terraced vineyards, is altogether delightful. Mentone. Gkorge Bunyard, V.M.H. LATE NOTES. " The Hopticultural Directory ," published by the Journal of Horticulture, 12, Mitre Court, Fleet Street, is as indispensable to the gardener as a "Bradshaw " or "Post Office Guide" is to the commercial man. It contains a complete list of the gardens and gardeners in the United Kingdom, and is so well arranged that to tind out all other particulars about a certain garden, such as county, nearest town, distance from station, proprietor's name, gardener's name, &c., it is necessary only to know its name. In addition to this information the principal nursery- men, seedsmen, and florists at home and on the Continent are given, as well as other useful addresses. The plants certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1904 are also described. The price is Is. Covent Garden Market.— Of Rosea the best varieties to be now seen are Bridesmaid, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Caroline Testout, Ltk France, Mrs. J. Laing, and Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (a fine white Rose for decorations in which long stems are wanted). Niphetos is very charming, and, though thin in the stem, it stiU remains a favourite. Liberty quite takes the lead aa a crimson Rose, yet the old favourite. General Jacqueminot, is still in demand, the only fault being tliat it loses its colour so soon. A note on Violets. — These are now very plentilul 111 the garden. Piincesa of Wales i» the best blue we have This and La France are general favourites. We do not seem likely to get any home-grown Violets to take the place of the double Parma from France, which we have noticed have been very tine this season. They are popular for wedding bouquets, memorial wreaths, crosses, &c. , also for sprays and button- hole bouquets. Some English doubles are seen, but they are certainly not equal to the French. April 8, 1905.] THE GARDEN. VII. Bowdon Amateur Horticultural Club.— The spring meeting of the Bowdon Amateur Horticultural Club will be held on Friday, the iSth inat. Mis3 Hopkins, F.R.H.S., of Mere, Knutsford, will read a paper on " Rock Gardens." Do Potatoes deteriorate ? — The discussion on this topic, which was conducted by the Royal Horticultural Society's scientific com- mittee on the 28lh ult., did little after all to advance knowledge on the subject. It is eo evident that it is more a matter for continuous experiment than for academic discussion. One great fact in relation to Potatoes stands out pro- minently. It is that never were they more abundant or cheaper than now; indeed, many growers cannot sell at any price. A striking comment is that on the shameless and unworthy efforts made last year to inflate prices of certain varieties far beyond all precedent. One reason why it is assumed that Potatoes deteriorate, and it applies equally to all varieties, from which new varieties can be produced in great abundance and rapidly, is that the natural desire to see what may be the merits or otherwise of these new ones causes old ones to be ignored, thus to pass out of cultivation, and to be unjustly classed amongst the deteriorated just because they are neglected. It was freely assumed that plants propagated naturally were necessarily subject to deterioration. There is no evidence of such decay in tuberous Artichokes, the Chinese Artichoke (Stachys), in Seakale propagated by root cuttings, in Dahlias or Pseonies having fleshy or tuberous roots, and plants increased by division. Straw- berries or Raspberries do not necessarily deterio- rate ; there is no proof that anything grown in gardens deteriorates, except where conditions of culture, of soil, of environment, or of improper methods of propagation are found. Things which have few varieties continue to exist sound indefinitely, although not increased by seed pro- duction. So far as the Potato is concerned, propagation by fleshy tuber is Nature's own method, and in the native habitats of the species it has answered for thousands of years. The immense crops we have show that it answers still. With how many bulbs has the method answered also ? All speakers who referred to change of seed or soil admitted that the doing so had a rejuvenating etfect on Potato stock ; but no one could say why it was that the same variety grown twice or thrice in the same field or garden got weaker, or why it gained strength if grown on diverse soils and situations. Without doubt a Potato requires, to make it robust, and especi- ally modern long-tried varieties, certain chemical constituents which any one soil either fails to furnish or is soon exhausted of. But in another soil those constituents are found, hence renewed vigour and robustness. Scotch soil and climate, as a rule, are highly favourable to Potatoes. Southern soils seem less so, as in those vigour is soon weakened. Stocks thus weakened sent north need two years to become as robust as before. It is a fact even southwards that stiS' soils give Potatoes more endurance than light ones do. We grew many varieties on stiff land for twenty years, and found no deterioration. It was suggested that the common ppantice of lifting tubers in the autumn from the soil, and storing them in dried form during the winter, might have a weakening effect. One practical grower said that he had found late planting and leaving the tubers late in the soil gave better seed than resulted from early lifting. He had found that Ashleaf Kidney thus specially treated for seed tuber production gave the next year the best crops. It is an old axiom that self-planted Potatoes, if left in the ground all the winter unharmed, always give the strongest growth the following year.^It may be that could the tubers of any variety specially selected for seed be kept in the ground all the winter safe from frost, and without making growth, they would remain always robust growers. Whether the common rule of planting yearly small tubers rather than large ones may have, or not have, a weakening effect was considered, and, it was strongly advised, should be made the subject of practical experiment. SOCIETIES. ROYAL UORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Colonial Frcit Show. The Royal Horticultural Society held a second show of Colonial-grown fruit in their hall in Vincent Square on Thiusday and Fiiday last. There was a moat, interesting display of Colonial produce, and there were some good exhibits of home-grown fruits also. We hear so much about the rich colouring and fresli appearance of imported Apples, that it is a relief and a pleasure to be able to say that the Colonial Apples shown last week, with few exceptions, were not to be compared, so far as attractive appearance is concerned, with the English ones. The exceptions were to be found in such as Jonathan, Falla- water, Ben Davis, and a few others from Nova Scotia, and Jonathan from South Africa. The Apples shown from South Africa lacked colouring, many were rather badly bruised, and the fruits of Ribston Pippin that we tasted were hardly worth eating. On the other hand, the Apples shown by Messrs. Bunyard, Cheat, Cannell, and a few others were firm, fresh fruits, and finely coloured. Mr. Divers, gardener to the Dukeof Rutland, showed some very good Newtown Pippin Apple?, of far better colour than those seen in the market. It would be interesting to have a note from Sir. Divers giving his experience of this variety, as some growers have failed with it. The Kelsey Plums from South Africa were splendid, and the Pears, too, were very good. A more detailed account of the many tropical fruits shown will be found below. In the class for Yams, Sweet Potatoes, and other tubers, a gold medal was awarded to Messrs. James Philip and Co., 4, Fenchurch Buildings, EC. This firm made a large display with both fruits and vegetables from the West Indies. Bananas, Jamaica Oranges, Coker-nuts, Cocoa Pods, Nutmegs, Grape Fruits, Limes, Papaw, Sweet Potatoes, Yams, White Eddoes, Tanyers, as well as such produce as Guava Cheese, Bauana Flour, Guava Marma- lade, Lime Juice Cordial, and many other interesting subjects. The Royal Mail Packet Steam Company made a good display with West Indian produce, such as Shaddocks, Bananas (including fruits of the Claret Banana, Musa sapientum var., from the Barbados), Papaw, Star Apples, Limes, Yams, and various pickles in bottles, such as Hot Sauce, Beans, Mountain Cabbage, and Stuffed Peppers. Silver-gilt Banksian medal. There was an exhibit of Cotton from Rhodesia, and some splendid photographs of the Victoria Falls, Zambesi. They are 1 mile 109 yards wide, while the Niagara Falls are only half a mile wide. A very flue collection of specimens of Wheat, Beans, Maize, Millet, Flax, Rubber, Cotton, Tobacco, Mealies, and other produce was exhibited by the British South Africa Company from Rhodesia. Gold medal. Messrs. L. Rose and Co., 39, Worship Street, E.C., exhibited Rose's Lime Juice, made from the Lime fruit. Silver Knightian medal. A silver Knightian medal was awarded to Messrs. W. Pink and Sons, Portsmouth, for an exhibit of Bananas, Musa Cavendishii, and M. sapientum grown in Barbados. An exhibit of patent glass-stoppered bottles for bottling fruit was made by Messrs. C. Lunn and Co., Kirkburton. Sir George Watt, K.C.S.I., exhibited some very flue photographs of Indian tree scenery in the Bjtanic Gardens, Calcutta, Nilgiri Hills, the Himalayas, Ac. Silver Banksian medal. The Army and Navy Co-operative Society, Limited, Victoria Street, exhibited a collection o"f Colonial pro- duce, which included Chocolate from Ceylon and Trinidad ; Honey, Nutmegs, Sugar, and Ginger from the West Indies ; Tea from India and Ceylon ; Coffee from India and Jamaica ; Indian Chutnee, Guavas, and Mangoes from the West Indies. Silver Knightian medal. A silver Knightian medal was awarded to the Arrny and Navy Auxiliary Company, Francis Street, Westminster, for a display of Colonial-grown fruits. Included were Nectarines; Beurr6 Brown, Louise Bonne, and Beurr6 Bosc Pears (very fine) ; Kelsey Plums, Plums, Grapes Raisiu Blanc and Red Haanefroot fiom Cape Colony ; Apples Lemon Favourite, Cleopatra, Lady Dahlia, Wel- lington, Dunn's Seedling, and Ribston Pippin from South Australia ; Bananas from the Birbados ; Apples Ben Davis, Fallawater, and Nonpareil from Nova Scotia; Jamaica Oranges, &c. The Kelsey Plums were the finest we have seen. Some of them weighed lUoz., and were most richly coloured yellow and red. The Array and Navy Auxiliary also showed a group of flowering plants and cut Roses. Some very fine Pears, Jonathan Apples, and Kelsey Plums were shown from the Meerhurst Fruit Farms, Paarl, Cape Colony. The Jonathan Apples were remarkable for their rich colour, and the Duchess Pears, too, were good. Silver-gilt Banksian medal. A silver Banksian medal was awarded to Mr. A. E. Baury, Rustenburg, South Africa, for splendid Louise Bonne Pears ; to Mrs. Hawkins and Mr. W. Slark, Cape Town, for Barbarossa, Red Haane- froot, Raisin Blanc, and White Haanefroot Grapes. They were shown through their London representatives, Messrs. G. E. Hudson and Son, Suffolk House, Cannon Street. The Rhodes Fruit Farm, Groot Drahenstein, Cape Colony, contributed a collection of Pears, the varieties being Batter Beurr^, Beurr^ Clairgeau, Forelle, Beuri^ Hardy, Beurr^ Dlel, Le Comte, Louise Bonne, Beu' ri Boec, Keiffer, Winter Nells, and Duchesse d'AngouIeme. Cape Apples grown and shipped by the Cape Orchard Company, Limited, were shown by Messrs. G. E. Hudson and Sons. Ribston Pippin, Spy, Reinette d'Or, Tower of Glamis, Blenheim, Ballarat .Seedling, and Rtinelte du Canada were among them. A silver-gilt Banksian medal was awarded to the Fiuit Exporters' Association, Cape Town, for an exhibit of Grapes, Apples, and Pears from South Afiica. A gold medal was gained by the Cape Orchard Company, Hex River, Cape Colony, for an exhibit of Apples and Pears. Some of the Pears were very fine, but the Apples lacked colour. The Apples from the Rhodes Fruit Farm Company, Groot Drahenstein, Cape Colony, gained a silver-gilt Knightian medal. A silver Banksian n;edal was given to iMr. A. Nicholson, Cape Colony, for a dish of Keutarines and for Pears. A bronze Banksian medal was given to Mr. Henry Meyer for Pear Gansell's Bergamot. The Agent-General for the Cape was awaided a silver Banksian medal for bottled fruits. The Agent-General for Nova Scotia showed a collection of Apples, as Baldwin, Fallawater, Northern Spy, Ben Davis, Mann, Seek, and Nonpareil, but some of them were not in the best condition. The home-grown fruits ex- hibited surpassed them in rich colouring and fieshness. Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, gaineil a silver Knightian medal for a collection of Apples. The fruits were preserved in a shed without any freezing or other artillcial means. They were richly coloured and well preserved. One of the best dishes was Smart's Piince Arthur, a conical, highly coloured fiuit, ([uite fresh and Arm. Calville Rouge d'Hiver, Barnack Beauty, Newtown Wonder, and Striped Beefing were particularly good also. Messrs. T. Rivera and Son, Sawbridgeworth, showed a collection of Oranges grow-n in their nurseiies. The fruits were large and finely coloured. The varieties were Achilles, St. Michaels, Bittencourt, Brown's Orange, Dom L(juise, E.xcelsior, Egg, and Silver or Plata. The Citron, White Lemon, Shadilock, and Imperial Lemon were also shown. There were pot fruit trees of the Grape Fiuit, Bij,ju Lemon, and Myrtle-leaved Orange. Silver-gilt Knightian medal. Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent, were awarded a silver-gilt Banksian medal for a collection of Apples, remarkable for their good colouring anei generally sounil condition. Beauty of Kent, Annie Elizabeth, Norfolk Beaufin, Bismarck, and Baumann's Red Reinette were excellent. A collection of " Apples in season " from Messrs. J. Cheat and Sons, Crawley, gained a silver Knightian medal. Cranley Reinette, Vicar of Beighton, Lane's Prince Albert, and Lord Derby were all very good. The home-grown Oranges and Lemons from Miss Talbot, .Maigam Park, were very interesting. They obtained a silver-gilt Knightian medal. A silver-gilt Knightian medal was awarded to the Duke of Rutland, Belvoir Castle (lardener, Mr. W. H. Diver.-), for a collection of Apples and Peais. They were in excellent condition, and most were well coloured. Cox's Orarge Pippin seemed almost at its best. Blue PearniHin, Annu Elizabeth, Alfriston, Lane's Prince Albert, Gascoyne's Scarlet, Tower of Glamis, Newton Wonder (richly coloured), and Barnack Beauty were all good dishes. Mr. Robert Sydenham, Tenby Street, Birmingham, exhibited bulbs grown in moss fibre, and a collection of cut Narcissi in many beautiful varieties. Messrs. G. Boyes and Co., Leicester, made a bright display with their Tree Carnations in many good soits. The best of the new ones was the Hon. Alfred Lyttelton, bright reddish salmon. Messrs. Champion and Co., 115, City Road, E.G., showed their handsome tubs for shrubs. The Four Oaks Garden Sundries Company, Four Oaks, Sutton Coldfleld, exhibited garden sundiies, and Mr. Williams, Oxford Road, Ealing, ahowed table decorations. NAKCissns Committee. The opening meeting of the Narcissus season on the 28th ult. was characterised by some important novelties, and probably a second view, so to speak, will be helpful to some at least of your readers. A large group came from Messrs. Bair. Ariadne (Leedsii) is probably an improved Minnie Hume with larger and more spreading cup, prettily and elegantly frilled. This gained the award of merit. Apricot we have never seen so full of tone in the trumpet as now, and we may look upou it as a forerunner of something good in the future. Peter Earr is becoming better known each year. It is a big flower, and, as a white Ajax kind, will reeinire some beating. Duke of Bedford is a fine bicolor. Alice knight is a pleasing white Ajax, and Constance a very charming Leedsii kind. Bridal Veil is a drooping white-Bowered sort with more cylindrical crown, while in the fine Incomparabilis Brilliant a rich colouring of the long crown is quite a feature. WhiteQueen,thee.xquisite and dainty Maggie May, the richly toned Lucifer, and the bold, imposing yellow Ajax King Alfred impressed me by their great beauty. Ki7iiJ Alfred came freely from its raiser, Mr. Kendall, Newton Poppleford, and one can admire this handsome type again and again. Mr. Robert Sydenham had many good things, not a few assisting to demonstrate the value of the prepared cocoa- nut fibre material for growing these thiiigs. Sir J. Gore-Booth, Bart., a new exhibitor, we believe, brought from Sligo many choice sorts. Seagull and Albatross, for example, with C. J. Backhouse, and others. We could but admire in this group the great size of Stella superba, while Minnie Hume was distinctly pretty. Vlll. THE GARDEN. [April 8, 1905. Mr. Charles Dawson, Rosemorran, Penzance, had a gathering of the choicest that gave us unbounded pleasure, not only because of their beauty, but in an arrangement that ignored completely the dozen-in-a-bunch idea. In place of this the smaller numbers of flowers with ample room were seen to advantage. We take the following as among the best in this tine lot : Homespun, a refined Sir Watkin, of deeper yellow tone iu the roundly ovate perianth segments. A shapely and beautiful flower. Horace we regard as the highest perfection to which the poeticus race has yet attained. Pilgrim we accept as a large Leedsii, with fine lemon- toned cup of good size. Firebrand, with its intensely coloured cylindrical cup BO heavily toned to the base, catches the eye at once. We know of no variety so well or so deeply coloured as this one. Phantom is a big bicolor, more drooping than grandis, but suggestive somewhat of this good kind. It is a very handsome flower. Red Eagle, with 1 inch wide crown of crimson flame colour, wa-i much admired, and was seen to perfection with Mermaid of the White Queen type quite near. Sea King we thhik highly of. It gives one the impres- sion of a big white Johnatoni kind, not entirely, but comparatively. Armcrrel, with large involute perianth segments, is quite an attraction, and we admire its flat, somewhat goifered crown. These are some of the better sorts seen on the 29th ult., and briefly mentioned in our last issue. Floral Committee. The following notes were unavoidably left out last week. Mr. E. A. Hambro, Hayes, Kent, gardener to Mr. Grandfleld, contributed a very beautiful lot of al pines in and out of flower. Among the more rare we noted Saxifraga arctioides, S. valdensis, and S. B )ydii, while the more common kinds were in abundance and well grown. S. sancta, S. Grisebachi, and the Cabinet Houseleeks were of this number. Silver Flora medal. Mr. H. li May, Edmonton, filled a long table with Gardenia florida in pots, Clematises in variety, and Roses White Pet and Crimson Rambler. Rose Mme. N. Levavasseur is also a bright-coloured vaiiety of the Polyantha class, flowering with great freedom. A group of Clivias were from Messrs. J. Laing and Sons, Forest Hill, and a large group of forced shrubs from Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond. Azaleas, Lilacs, Cleraatisea, Viburnums, and other choice things made a most impos- ing display. The white Azalea Daviesii is very charming. Silver Bmksian medal. A small group of alpines from the Guildford Hardy Plant Nursery included Sanguinaria canadensis, Fritil- laria aurea, Cheiianthus Harpur Crewe, Primulas, Trollius laxu3. Anemones, and the like. Saxifraga apiculata was a very fine mass of primrose yellow blossom. Flowering shrubs from Messrs. B. S. Williams, Holloway, were very firie in the mass. Lilacs, Prunuses, Azalea mollis, Deutzias, and others, in all the freshness of a bright spring morning, were here to perfection, and greatly admired. Standards and dwarfs of the Prunuses assisted much in varying the arrangement. Silver-gilt Banksian medal. Messrs. Cuthush and Sons, Highgate, had a rich and varied lot of forced shrubs, obtaining a fine result with standard Currants, Laburnums, Lilacs, Cytisus, and the like, while Azalea mollis, A. Diviesii, dwarf Lilacs, and richly-coloured Azaleas and Magnolias completed a very fine arrangement of these useful plants. Alpines and allied tilings were in much variety from Messrs. J. Peed and Son, West Norwood, Sedums and Sempervivums being largely shown. A small group of Cacti was also staged. A small group of alpines from Mr. H. C. Pulham, Elsen- ham, contained Anemone Pulsatilla and A. P. alba, both very fine. Adonis amurensis plena and Polygala Chaniic- busus purpurea was also noted, a pretty mass being iu full flower. Another group of alpines was that from Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley. Here were seen Primroses (single and double), Anemones, h.ardy Heaths, alpine Primulas, and other things. Daphne Mezereum was very good. HORTICULTURAL CLUB. Lecture on " Forests, Wild and Cultivated." On Tuesday, the 23'-h ult., the monthly dinner of this club was held under the presidency of Mr. Harry J. Veitch, on which occasion Dr. Henry and Sir Herbert Maxwell, Bart., were guests. Many members and friends were present. Dr. Henry gave a most interesting lecture on "Forests, Wild and Cultivated," illustrated by a large number of lanter?i slides. The main purpose of the lecture was the advocacy of the utilisation of many large areas of waste land in Great Britain, and especially in Ireland and Scotland, as forest land. The illustrations started with a map of the world, showing the presumed areas originally covered with primieval forests, now to a very large extent denuded. %> This map showed clearly that the growth of timber depended essentially upon the extent of the rainfall, and not upon temperature or special richness of soil. The temperature question was determined by the existence of forests well into the arctic zone ; while, as regards soil, a number of the slides, all photographic, demonstrated that fine timber trees could thrive and flourish in soil which was practically nothing but stones and rocky rubble, and in other instances, dense forests were shown to have existed at one lime on deep peat beds, in which their remains were found to this day. This pointed the lecturer's moral as regarded Ireland, especially where he maintained that forest cultivation, on the lines ) indicated by Continental experiments and results, was entirely practicable and capable of transforming waste land, inhabited now sparsely and by an impoverished population, into thriving industrial areas. In this con- nexion he instanced an area of over 1,000,000 acres in France which exactly illustrated this possibility, since, thirty or forty years ago, the whole district was bare and supported but a few peasants and shepherds, while at the present moment it is clothed with profltable timber, which in the way of timber and by-products supported a number of thriving towns. By a series of slides, taken in one of the same forests at different spots, Dr. Henry clearly demonstrated how this was done, and by other slides taken in this country he also showed how it should not be done. The secret appears to lie in dense growth. One slide, for instance, showed an Oik forest in which the trunks were so close together as hardly to admit of p issage between. The trees conse(juentIy formed tall pole-like trunks, perfectly straight and devoid of lateral branches. This means sound timber devoid of knots as was shown by separate slides, and two trees grown on near and far-apart systems, and sections of planks derived from same, the latter of which were full of knots and the former without a trace, the later branches being early suppressed by the induced shade. One Oak was shown with a straight trunk of 00 feet belowabrooni-Iiketop, utterly belying the ordinary idea of an Oak tree, and repugnant, perhaps, to the artistic sense, but commercially precisely what was needed. Other views showed the processes of thinning out the timber when fit for sale, and of subsequent regeneration which was practically left to Nature, by means of self-sown seedlings, which sprang up when light was admitted by partial clearance. Trees were divided by the lecturer into two classes, shade-bearing trees and non-shade bearing, i.e., trees which spontaneously killed off their lower branches as they developed, because their foliage could not stand the induced shade of the upper growth, and trees which formed dense masses to the ground for the opposite reason. Another point, finely illustrated by slides, upset the idea that the native habitats of trees and other plants were necessarily such as best fitted them for full development. Specimens of exotic trees grown in the British Isles were shown, which were the largest known specimens in the world, while the same species were shown in their native habitats as relatively small speci- mens. In the discussion which followed the lecture, Sir Herbert Maxwell raised the vexed question of the rabbit, as, perhaps, the greatest hindrance to reafforestation, owing to its attacks upon seedling trees, and it was elicited that in the Continental examples rabbits were relatively scarce. Mr. Alfred Pearson also challenged the profitable nature of forestry iu this country, and instanced cases where timber was unsaleable. The opinion, however, was expressed by Sir H. Maxwell that this question ranked with that of the small producer of vegetables or fruits, and would be answered satisfactorily if timber-raising were elevated to a really practical industry on a large scale as on the Continent. A very hearty vote of thanks was accorded to Dr. Henry, whose observations wery obviously of such great practical and economical value that it is to be hoped they may appear in extenso in the Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society. TORQUAY SPRING SHOW. A VERY bright show was held at the Bith Saloons, Torquay, on the 30th ult., under the management of the Gardeners' District Association. Prize List. Six flowering plants : First, Miss Congreve. Six foliage plants: First, Miss Congreve; second, Dr. Quick. Three flowering plants : First, Miss Con^:reve ; second, Mrs. Trevor Barkly. Six Ferns: First, Miss Lavers ; second, Miss Congreve. Specimen Azaleas ; First, Miss Congreve. Three Azaleas: First, Colonel Gary. Group of miscella- neous plants: First, Miss Laveis. Group of Orchids, 10 feet by 3 feet : First, Mrs. Trevor Barkly. Three Orchids : First, Miss Lavers ; second, Mrs. Trevor Birkly. Three Deutzias: First, Dr. Quick; second, Colonel Gary. Six table plants, flowering: First, Mrs. Trevor Birkly; second, Mrs. Whittey. Six table plants, foliage : First, Dr. Quick; second, Captain Tottenham; third, Mrs. Trevor Barkly. Six Amaryllis: First, Mrs. Trevor Barkly ; second, Miss Lavers. Twelve Hyacinths: First, Mr. Fenton Wincate ; second. Miss Lavers. Six pots of Narcissi : First, Mrs. Trevor Birkly ; second, Mr^. Pitt. Six pots of Polyanthus Narcissus : Fjrst, Air. S. B. Cogan. Six pots of Freesias : First, Mr. Fenton Wingate. Three pots of Lilies of the Valley : First, Miss Lavers. Six pots of Tulips: First, Mrs, Pitt; second, Mr. Wingate; third. Miss Congreve. Several nurserymen added much to the display. Amongst these were the Devon Rosery, Toniuay, which exhibited pot Roses in flower, hundreds of cut Roses, Niphetos being especially fine. Cinerarias, Deutzias, Cytisus racemosus, Lilium longiflorum, a bank of Anthuriums, Cypripediums, Lilacs, Ericas, Lilies of the Valley, and other flowers, while from their fruit farm came Strawberries, Apples, and other fruits and vegetables. Messrs. Barr and Sons showed a large collection of Narcissi, including King Alfred, Peter Barr, Bridesmaid, Mary Anderson, Dandy Dick, Weardale Perfection, Catherine Spurrell, Dr. Fell, Concord, Beauty, Gloria Mundi, Constellation, Vesuvius, Constance, C. J. Backhouse, White (iueen, White Lady, Salmonetta, Apricot, Cassandra, Strongbow, Vivid, Love- liness, Peach, Bridal Veil, and Ariadne, filesirs. Rubert Veitch and Son, Exeter, staged a selection of rock plants, comprising Primula nivalis, Saxifraga Griesbachii, Cory- dalis thalictrifolia, and Androsaces, as well as Cydonias, Forsythia suspensa, Dimorphotheca Ecklonis, Rehmannia augulata, Kalanchue flammea, Jasmlnum prlmuUnum, Lachenallas, Sarracenias, Oranges in fruit, the new Erica \ eitchii and Cheiranthus kewensis, and many varieties of Magnolia in flower. Messrs. W. B. Smale and Son, Tor- quay, showed Acalypha Sandersi, Clivias, Anthuriums, new hybrid Azaleas, Cactus Pelargoniums, Acacias, Cyclamens and other plants. Mr. J. Heath, Kiugskerswell, exhibited a fine collection of Violets, amongst which were Kaiser Wilhelm, La France, Mrs. J. J. Astor, Lady Hume Camp- bell, Comte de Brazza, Perle Li^jie, and Princesse de Surmonte. CROYDON HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The second of the first prize essays won last year in open competition amongst the members of this society was read by the winner, Mr. J. Sugden, Morland Road, and the paper pntved entertaining to a good muster of members at their rooms on Tuesday last. Tne subject was "Birds of our Garden," and the essayist spoke in meritorious terms of most of the species found amongst us. He, however, also mentioned the depredations of some on the young seedlings and buds, and advised protection with black cotton or other means from these molestations. He said it must be admitted tlwt the birds are of great bencflt to the gardener, and entreated all to make close observation of these feathered friends, when it will be foui.d they prove a decided benefit to mankind. With the help of the lantern he was able to show a number of slides un the screen, illustrating the natural colours of the birds. The discussion following was in a mixed feeling to the essayist's views, some members eulogising the good points in the majority of species, whilst others were condemned aa altogether destructive. The exhibits were good, and comprised a weli-flowered Ccelogyne cristata from Mr. A. Edwards, Tulips in pots from Mr. B. Acock, Parsley and Kale from Mr. W. A. Cooke, and pod of Cottou Plant, Cottonseed, and raw Cotton from Mr. F. W. Moore. A unanimous vote of thanks was conveyed to Mr. Sugden for reading his essay, also to the exhibitors. The flftu annual spring flower show will be held at the Art Galleries, Park Lane, Croydon, on Wednesday, the lOch lust. BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. Wkst Hartlepool.— At a meeting held recently at West Hartlepool il was unanimously resolved to form a local branch of the association, and a committee was elected to carry this resolution into effect, Mr. T. Smith, Grantully Gardens, West Hartlepool, being appointed local secretary. Beckenham.—A meeting of gardeners, called by Mr. Mark Webster, was held in thid town on the 10th ult., Councillor J. Neville in the chair, and was addressed by Mr. W. Watson. It was decided to form a committee and establish a branch of the British Gardeners' Asoociatiou iu the district. BOURNEMOUTH AND DISTRICT GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. At the meeting held on the 21st ult. at the Avenue Restaurant, when Mr. J. B. Stevenson occupied the chair, Mr. Dumper of Hintou Admiral Gardens, Christchurch, read a paper on "Some Injurious Insects," giving much valuable information as to tneir haunts and peculiariLies, also hints as to their extermlnatiou. The paper was mucii appreciated, and Mr. Dumper was accorded a hearty vote of thanks. Two honorary membt-TS were elected. *»* The Yearly Sv^scription to THE Garden is: Inland, 6s. 6d. ; Foreign, Ssi. Od, INDEX. Adonis amurensis fl.-pl. (illustrated) Alpine huuae, for and against the Answers to currespondenLs Apples, English V. American Brodifcaa, tne (illustrated) .. Bulbs for present planting (illustrated) Correspondence Editor's table Slower garden, the Fruit, tnjpical Garden, round about a Gardeners, prizes for Gardening tor begtnnera Gardening of the week Guava, the (illustrated) Mentone, a letter from Notes of the week Odontoglossum lawrenceanum (illustrated) .. Paul, Mr. William, F.L.S., death of (illu,traleJ) Plants, hardy, notes on Plants, new and rare Kose garden, the Selaginellas, greenhouse (illustrated) iStove and greenhouse Page 2U7 1U9 210 201 2da 2U5 2ua 199 205 2UB •zua 2U0 2US 2U9 200 214 2UU 2U7 213 2U2 2U7 202 2U9 2U9 ALPINE AND ROCK PLANTS, HERBACEOUS PLANTS & SHRUBS The Plaaliag of Rock and Alpine Gardens a speciality. Catalogues on Application. Hi Ci pulham I Hardy Plant Nursery, BLSBNHAM, BSSBX. ^w^- GARDEN t ^ No. 1743.— Vol. LXVII. April 15, 1905. DISEASED MUSHROOMS. COMPLAINTS have been fre- quent this spring of the loss suffered by Mushroom growers through the crops being damaged byan injurious fungus permeating the beds and attacking the Mushrooms. Tliis complaint is as old as the practice of the growth of Mushrooms under artificial con- ditions, but no one, so far as we know, has been able to say definitely what is really the cause of the disease. We have no knowledge of its attacking the Mushroom when grown naturally in our fields and meadows ; there- fore we are forced to the conclusion that the disease is due to some defect in one or more of the materials which are used to form the spawn or Mushroom beds, or in the conditions under which they are grown. Generally we may say that growers are inclined to blame the spawn as being impure. This, we think, implies an unjust reflection on manufacturers. No man knowingly would be so blind to his own interests as to intro- duce an obnoxious element into the spawn. The fact remains, all the same, that our beds are frequently impregnated by this deleterious mycelium and spoilt. The question naturally arises, How does it get there 1 We think its presence may be accounted for in one or two ways. In the first place, it may have been present in the manure which is used in the first instance to form the brick spawn. We know that in manure of this kind there is often the form of more than one fungus, which lies dormant only until the conditions favourable to its growth are provided, and this is when the bricks, after the introduction of the proper spawn takes place, are subjected to a mild heat to induce the mycelium to run through and permeate the brick. The false mycelium, if present, does the same, sharing the possession afterwards of the brick with the genuine spawn. Considered in this sense, of course the spawn would be at fault, although un- known to the maker. The other way we suggest in which it may be accounted for is through some quality or condition of the manure which forms the bed being favourable to this false variety. The opinion is held by many that the manure from stables in which horses are frequently physicked is accountable ; others say that the manure, being too wet or too rotten when the bed is made up, is at fault, forming con- ditions favourable to its growth. The subject is important as bearing on the successful culture of Mushrooms, and we hope to gain information which may help our readers to get at the bottom of the trouble, and so find a remedy or preventive. We have been asked by a correspondent whose crop of Mushrooms has been seriously affected by this disease to bring the matter before readers of The Garden in order that further light may be thrown on the subject. RIVIERA NOTES. After five years' struggle with Tulipa sa.xatilis I have at length succeeded in finding out its requirements, and this year it is in great beauty. Its Peach blossom colouring is unique, and its golden eye and grass green foliage are most unusual. Hitherto, in common I fancy with most of those who have grown it, I have found it apt to dwindle to small ofi'sets, which in their turn grow still smaller, till they die out. The secret, here at any rate, is planting it in rich red ferruginous earth such as is found in cavities in the limestone rocks and exposing it fully to the summer heat and drought, for those planted two years ago on a rock\york made for Aloes and succulents have this year shown plainly they are at home. Tulipa Geeigi, which is also rather a difficult bulb to keep in vigour year after year, prefers a moister and cooler soil and situation, and has done best as an edging to a Rose bed that is well manured, but which is not watered during the summer heats, for this bulb also demands a long, dry rest. Both evidently like limestone soil. Tulipa clusiana and T. pbjscox, both natives of the country, grow and multiply like weeds, and afford me much pleasure, but it is T. clusiana that is the more prolific of the two. The tiniest bulbs will give a flower, and the biggest give sometimes three of their dainty flowers, whose brilliant rose flush on the white petal has earned for them the doubtful epithet of Painted Ladies ! Tulipa kaufmanniana as yet remains in the "misunderstood class." So far, no blandishments of mine have succeeded, and 1 begin to think it is a Tulip that likes a colder climate, as I see its petals f requentf y reflex in the sun, and the long flower-stem bends over till it looks like a huge Cyclamen. If I hear it succeeds well in the north of England, I shall try it in the moistest and coolest corner I possess. The adaptability of bulbs and plants is so wonderful that perhaps the difl'erence between sun and shade may be what it really needs, for hitherto I have thought the full sunshine desirable for all Tulips. That very vigorous Rose Noella Nabonnand is one of the few Roses that enjoyed the heat and drought of last year. It is already in flower, and finer than usual, while the favourite Fortune's Yellow refused to stir till the welcome rains of ten days ago put a little sap into the slender shoots. For a hot and dry south wall I should think no Rose more suitable than Noella Nabonnand, and I shall not be surprised to hear it proves too vigorous a grower in England. So early a Rose is, however, always worth a trial, and with a little pruning it gives a fair autumnal bloom. The three forms of FoRsyTHiA Fortune!, suspensa, and inter- media, which have been in fine flower, deserve a few words, for I think they are often taken the one for the other. F. Fortunei is perhaps the best of them all, with its strong, tall, upright shoots and numerous flowers clustering at each node. F. suspensa is much more slender in growth, and has a more decided patch of orange at the base of the flower. Its merit here is that it flowers quite ten days earlier, and though there are only two flowers at each joint, the number of slender, drooping shoots hung with yellow bells is most elegant, and when in full flower is much admired. F. intermedia tells its own tale at once. It is exactly between these two, and is, in consequence, not so distinct or desirable in my opinion ; but where F. suspensa does not flower freely F intermedia may try to flU its place. Cheiranthus kewen.sis has been a dis- appointment to me. The growth is sturdy and the flower very fragrant, but the colour is the dingiest possible tone of muddy brown. If some kind friend would hybridise the charming Cheiranthus mutabilis with a rich purple shade of Wallflower, we might then have a first-rate perennial bush. As it is I find nobody will give it a good word when I point it out to them, CoRoisiLLA coEONATA is a Very distinct and hardy form of the old and excellent Coronilla glauca. ' Its growth is upright and sturdy, its foliage bright green and abun- dant, so that a big bush of some years standing is a very handsome thing. The flower is identical with, but a little larger than, the type, and as it is much hardier as well as more vigorous,it isa plant well worth growing when it can be obtained, and should withstand an ordinary winter without protection. ExocHORDA Albelti macrantha has again proved itself very free flowering, even in a strong calcareous soil, where the typical Exochorda refuses to exist, so those whose lot is laid in the limestone should make a mark in its favour. Jfice. Edward H. Woodall. 216 THE GAEDEN. [April 15, 1905, RECENT PLANT PORTRAITS. The Botanical Magazine for April contains por- traits of Catasetum christyammi . — Native of Amazon district. This is a vigorous-growing species, with (iuU-coloured flowers of little beauty and only botanical interest. Dtrris alhoruhra. — Native of China. This is a pretty evergreen climber from Hong Kong, requiring the temperature of a stove, and pro- ducing long, pendulous, open-branched racemes of small, pure white flowers, with deep rose- coloured calyces, forming a fine contrast. Burhidgea schhecheila. — Native of Malaya. This is a rather bright and ornamental-flowered member of the Gingerwort family, with spikes of orange flowers. The correctness of itsnoraencla- lure is as yet uncertain. In habit of growth it resembles an Hedychium. Cotoneatiter rotundifolia. — Native of North India. This is perhaps the largest, brightest- fruited, and handsomest member of its interesting family. Its fruits are of very large size and of a bright shade of rose colour, and retained their beauty in the open air at Kew through the severe frosts and destructive fogs of last winter up to the middle of the month of February. Pinanga macidafa. — Native of the Philippine Islands. This is a slender and graceful-growing Palm, with mottled foliage and pendulous racemes of small red fruit. W. E. Gdmbleton. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FOKTHCOMING EVENTS. April IS. — Midland Daffodil Society's Show, Birmingham (2 days) ; Sevenoaks Gardeners' Society's Meeting. April 19. — Royal Botanic Society's E,\hibition. April 25. — Royal Horticultural Sjciety's Meeting ; Chesterfield Show. May 9. — Koyal Horticultural Society's Meeting. May 11. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund Dinner. May 17.— Royal Botanic Society's Exhibition. The late Mr. William Paul.— Many friends gathered round the graveside of the late Mr. William Paul on Tuesday, the 4th inst. It should have been mentioned in our review of the late rosarian's life that he was in the original list of the Victoria Medallists of Honour. The Edinbupg-h Intepnational Show. — In consequence of the large number of applications made to the Ro3'al Caledonian Horti- cultural Society for space at the International Horticultural Exhibition in September, it has been found necessary tj apply to the Town Council for the use of the roof of the Waverley Market, where the show is to be held. It is proposed to erect a temporary stairway from the market to the roof. The application was con- sidered at a joint meeting of the Parks' and Treasurers' committees on the 30th ult., and it was ultimately agreed to recommend the Council to grant the use of the roof, oidy one member dissenting. It is proposed to exhibit shrubs and flowers on the roof. Hardy Heaths at Kew.— The Heath garden at Kew presented a very gay appearance on the last day of March, a month which had been singularly free from frosts and cutting winds. Taking first the larger growers, the little rounded wa.x-like blossoms of the Tree Heath (Erica arhorea) were nearly over, while the Portuguese Heaths (E. lusitauica or codo- nodes) were past their best. Between these two there is often much confusion, but the last-named does not attain the dimensions of E, aiborea, while the individual flowers are somewhat longer. A hybrid between the two, which, under the name of E. Veitchi, was lately given an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural Society, is also well represented at Kew, and a beautiful Heath it is. Another of the larger kinds also in flower was E. australis, a native of Spain and Portugal, but it is not generally grown in this country. The fliwers of this are of a bright rosy tint, and being borne (as happens with most Heaths) in the greatest profusion it is very beautiful when at its best. The different forms of E. mediterranea all in full bloom on the day stated served to show how charming it is, and on the score of hardiness it is superior to any of those named above. The typical E. mediterranea (the largest grower) has bright rosy red blossoms, and beside this there are also alba, in which the flowers are white; glauca, with bluish foliage; and nana, a comparatively dwarf kind. That delightful Heath known as E. mediterranea hybrida, which has gained many admirers of late years, and a short time since received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, is strongly represented at Kew, and despite the fact that it had been flowering for so long it was still at the end of March very beautiful. E. carnea and its white variety were, unless in very shady spots, almost over. Concerning this charming little winter Heath it may be noted that some individuals are much richer in colour than others, a fact that is not generally recog- nised.—T. Chionodoxa nana.— Although not vieing with the other Chionodoxas in brilliancy of effect, the little Chionodoxa nana is one which many will prize for its neat and quiet beauty, while its rarity will commend it to those who consider this a quality in a flower. It is much smaller than any of the others, and its pretty little blue- coloured flowers are produced later than those of most of the genus. In height it is also a little dwarfer. This Chionodoxa is a native of Crete, and, although introduced for a consider- able number of years, still remains rare in gardens. I had it originally from Mr. James Allen, but I believe that it has only been imported once or twice from its native habitats. Like most of the Chionodoxas here it increases but slowly by offsets, and so far I have not found seedlings in the neighbourhood of my little group of plants. — S. Arnott, Dumf'ries. Experiments in Potato culture. The report of an experiment on the manuring of Potatoes at the County Council Farm, Hutton, and of the planting of Potatoes at different dis- tances apart, by Mr. John Biyne, M.A., B.Sc, Principal of Agriculture, and Mr. Edward Porter, B.Sc, Lecturer in Agriculture for the Lancaster County Council, has been published in pamphlet form. The conclusions arrived at were : Without farmyard manure — The following dressing of arti- ficials per statute acre can be recommended as a manure for Potatoes on good land : Sulphate of ammonia, |cwt. ; nitrate of soda, IJcwt. ; super- phosphate, 3Jowt. ; muriate or sulphate of potash, 1-Jcwt. On medium land the above quantities may all be increased up to .50 per cent. With farmyard manure— Farmyard manure, 10 tons; sulphate of ammonia, Icwt. ; superphosphate, 3.]cwt. ; sulphate of potash, Hcwt. The quanti- ties may be increased if the land is somewhat low in condition, and instead of sulphate of potash the same weight of muriate of potash may be used. The experiment as to planting shows that, in the ease of a large free-growiug late variety of Potato like Scottish Triumph, the best distance apart for planting the seed is between IS inches and 2 feet Myrobolan hedges,— For many years past the gardeners of England have been using the Myrobolan Plum as a hedge plant, and from the reports of it from time to time which appear in their papers, it makes a most satisfactory hedi^e. The nurserymen there advertise it as a defensive hedge plant, and this claim is no doubt correct from the way it grows here. This subject is referred to now to call attention to the possi- bility of this Plum being used in this country in a similar way to advantage. From the habit of its growth, by proper pruning it could, certainly, be made into such a thicket as would deter an ordinary animal from breaking through it. There are not many hedges of a defensive character used nowadays. Wire has taken their places, and where it has not the O^age Orange and Honey Locust are not always desirable, their tree-like habits calling for such heavy pruning. The Myrobolan Plum is but of Plum tree height, so that when used in hedge shape it is easily kept under control. To those looking for a hedge of a different character from what we now have, the Plum in question is recommended for trial. It is a shrub which can usually be had at small cost, and in quantities, both from home- raised and imported plants. This is the Plum which is the most esteemed of all kinds for stocks by our nurserymen. Some years ago the Mirobelle was used to some extent, but it proved such a terrible fellow in the way of suckering that it has been totally discarded. The Marianna is valued by many, but more of the Myrobolan is used than of any other, and now were it to come into demand for hedging it would be still further valued. — Joseph Meehan, in Neiv York Florists' Exchange. Horticultural lectures at Aber- deen.— The series of lectures on horticultural subjects delivered to the gardeners of the citj' and suburbs by Mr. Hendrick, of the Aberdeen and North of Scotland Agricultural College, was brought to a close on the 2Sth ult. The lectures have been of a valuable character, and have been much appreciated by those who attended them. Mr. Hendrick succeeded in making them lucid, attractive, and thoroughly practical. SONGS OF THE WOODS AND FLOWERS : DAFFODILS. I QCESTtOiN With the amber Daffodils, Sheeting the fluors of April, how she fares ; Where King-cup buds gleam out between the rills, And Cellandine in wide gold-beadlets glares. By pastured brows and swelling hedgerow bowers, From crumpled leaves the Primrose-bunches slip, My hut face roll'd in their fair-scented flowers, I dream her cheek rests against my lip. All weiid sensations of the fervent prime Are like great harmonies, whose touch can move The glow of gi-aciuui impulse ; thought, and time Renew my love with life, my life with love. When this old world new-born puts glories on, I cannot think she never will be won. Loud De Tacley, in Fhm and Siilva (April). "Effects ol the W^eather upon Vegetation."— Mr. John Clayton has pub- lished in booklet form a lecture on the above subject, delivered to the Bradford Naturalists' Society on March 1, 1S97. Among other things Mr. Clayton observes: " Difl'erenc plants are affected by frost in varying degrees. As a rule those that contain most water are the most readilj- affected. But it may be assumed that the constituents of the sap of some plants are different to the constituents of the sap of others, therefore oue sap would need a lower temperature to fretz9 it than another ; and the plant whose sap needs the lower temperature would accord- ingly resist frost more successfully. By expe- riment it has been proved that sap expressed from a Beech tree required a lower temperature to convert it into ice than was required to con- vert an equal (juaiitity of water. Both sap and water expanded about one-twelfth their volumes on becoming ice. Such an expansion in a pipe that is already full must necessarily burst it, but in vegetation the vessels are never full of sap, for they contain, besides, a quantity of either air or a more rarefied gas, therefore the expansion which takes place when sap freezes is easily allowed for by a slight compression on the particles of air." April 15, 1 J05.] THE GARDEN. 217 Rhododendron fulg-ens.— The almost entire absenoe of fiustduring March has been this season greatly in favour ol the early-flowering Hhododendrons, of which R. fulgens is one ; indeed, about the middle of the month a large bush of it in the Rhododendron dell at Kew formed a most brilliant picture, being thickly studded with clusters of rich blood-red flowers. Later on the comparatively large crimson bracts which subtend the young shoots, will be scarcely less showy than the blossoms. The flower trusses of this species are close and rounded, very different from the loose clusters of some of the Himalayan kinds. The ovate leaves are about 4 inches long, and clothed with a reddish felt-like substance on the undersides. The true Rhododendron fulgens is, indeed, a charming shrub, but it cannot be always obtained from nurseries, for instances have come under my notice in which the variable R. campanulatum, whose flowers are purplish, have been sent for it. In a small state at toast the two so nearly resemble •each other that it is almost impossible to state positively the corrtctness or otherwise of the name. In the case of a large specimen, however, R. campanulatum is, as a rule, less gaunt in out- line than R. fulgens. Dospite its comparative hardiness and the beauty of its flowers, this last- named species has not, as far as I know, been used by the hybridist in the production of new varieties. — H. P. Farms in W^est Australia.— Recog- nising the necessity on the part of settlers, particularly young men, of gaining Colonial •«xperience, and of acquiring the technical know- ledge needed to ensure success in an agricultural ■career, the authorities in W^estern Australia have established two experimental farms, one of about 1,000 acres, and another of about 2,000 acres. Both are in the south-west division, but they represent, to some extent, different classes ot soil. Entrance to these farms is open to youths of sixteen years of age and over on most generous terms. For a fee of £2 2s. per annum, payable •quarterly, students are maintained and taught for two years. Any young fellows going from the home country to these farms might get a thorough practical knowledge of farm work, and, at the end of the period, would be able to take ■up land for themselves. Should any of our readers like to have further information, it can, no doubt, be obtained from the Agent-General for Western Australia, 15, Victoria Street, London, S.W. Agr^'icultupal Education and Forestry Exhibition, 1905.— The Royal Aaricultural Society announce that an Agricultural Education and Forestry Exhibition will again be held in connexion with the society's «how to be held at Park Royal from June 27 to 30 next. The forestry department will be organised on the same general lines as last year, and offers of exhibits are invited for the following sections: 1. Seeds and cones of trees and shrubs. 2. Seedling trees and transplants, consisting of specimens and plants suitable for woods, planta- . tions, coverts, shrubberies, &o. ; plants suitable for agricultural hedgerows, with illustrations of planting, and collections of Willow plants for industrial purposes (cricket bats, basket making, .&C.). 3. Woods and plantations, chiefly photo- graphs and diagrams, showing systems of treat- ment as to mixing, thinning, &c. ; photographs of historic or specimen trees. 4. Timbers, plank'', and hand ppecimens of homegrown woods of various species ; specimens of timber, &c., show- ing the t fleets of pruning, injuries, &o. ; speci- mens of timber showing the ( fleets of creoBoting and of other methods of preservation ; articles in process of manufacture from home-grown timber. •5. Insects and? diseases, specimens of forest insects and of fungi and their ravages ; character- istic examples of the attacks of game, birds, squirrels, voles, &o. 6 Plans, maps, models, &c., illustrating working plans, forest exploitation, manipulation of timber, &c. 7. Forest and nursery tools, instruments, and appliances. Any offers of exhibits or enquiries should be addressed to the secretary of the society at 13, Hanover Square, London, W. Potato prices. — After the /m-ore of prices for new Potatoes which prevailed last year it is instructive to note that now seed-tubers can be purchased at what must be described as abnor- mally low prices. By wholesale lists which come to me I find that many leading varieties can be had for prices per " ton " such as were proclaimed as having been paid for pounds only last year. Were planting to be this year in proportion to the existing cheapness of seed-tubers there should be an immense breadth planted presently, but because of the great abundance and cheapness of Potatoes the result may be that a much lesser area will be planted now, and thus prices may be raised in the autumn. The fact that we have such an abun- dance of tubers potently shows that talk of the deterioration of the Potato has no basis, as also that the disease or other ills affect the Potato crop harmfully only in the smallest degree. It was most widely anticipated last autumn that there would have been this spring an exceptional demand, but so far it has not been realised. — A. D. The best garden Dahlias.— In the 1905 supplement to the official Citalogue and culture guide of the National Dihlia Society this revised selection of twelve varieties, which make an especially effective display in the garden on account of their good habit and stiff flower-stems, is given : Amos Perry, crimson ; Aunt Chloe, deep purplish black ; Britannia, salmon-pink, shaded apricot ; Oounless of Lonsdale, salmon, tinted carmine ; Effective, amber, with rose centre ; Eva, pure white ; Floradora, wine crimson ; Mary Service, pinkish heliotrope ; Mrs. H. L. Brouason, yellow, shaded salmon ; Prince of Yellows, rich yellow ; Spitfire, bright scarlet ; and Spotless Queen, pure white. This supplement gives several other very useful lists. The honorary secretary of the National Dahlia Society is Mr. H. L. Brouason, Boyton, Foot's Cray, Kent. A beautiful Daphne (D. blagay- ana). — In tlie rock garden at Kew a large plant of this Daphne is in full flower, and very pretty it is, with almost every shoot terminated by creamy white blooms. When first expanded the yellowish tinge is more pro- nounced than is the case after they have been opened a few days, as at that time they become almost white. This Daphne is said to have hwri first discovered in Carniola as long ago as 1837 but twenty years ago it was an almost unknowrj plant. It naturally forms a low - growing, spreading bush, and is just at home when treated as a roekwork shrub. From its almost procumbent manner of growth it can be readily propagated by layers, though they take some time to root. Few subjects serve better as an object-lesson against the evil effects of grafting than this Diphne, as at one time it was often increased in nurseries by grafting on to a naked stem, and apart from the fact that it was liable to die off suddenly, its natural beauty was never seen. It was once my good fortune to see a delightful specimen at Glasnevin, and this had good sized stones laid on the branches, which were thereby pressed close to the ground. Ai all events this treatment was, judging by appear- ances, most congenial to the Daphne. — T. Kew gardeners' holiday.— Com- mencing on the l9t in^t., the sub-foremen and gardeners employed at Kew finish work at twelve o'clock on alternate Saturdays, instead of once a month as before. Michaelmas Daisies as pot plants. — Last season we made an experiment with Michaelmas Daisies as pot plants and were well satisfied with the result. The present is a good time to make a start, and I hope this note may induce many readers of The Garden to give them a trial. Select strong, stout shoots with a few roots if possible, and pot them in 4-inch pots, placing the young plants in a slight heat for a few days, afterwards removing to a cold frame when well rooted, which should be by the middle of M.iy. They may be potted direct into the flowering pots, which should be from 8 inches to 10 inches diameter, according to the vigour of the variety. A good holdin^^ loam cut direct from the stack will grow thtm well. Place on a hard bottom in the open for a few weeks alter potting, and towards the latter end of .lune Uiey may be plunged and staked, keeping the plants to a single stem. Feed liberally with liqtiid manure during August and September, and as the flowers begin to open remove to a cold house to protect them from the dews. They will bo most useful to auyone requiring a change in the conservatory, and for house decoration also. Our best varieties were Arcturus, Elegantissimus, Nancy, and Robert Parker. Perhaps Mr. Molyneux or Mr. Beckett could give a list of the best varieties for pot culture. — H. Wilson, juu.. Cole Oftou Hall, Ashby-de-la-Zouch. Acetylene gas refude.— In reply to " W. A. B. ," tlie acetylene gas has been in use here since November, 1903. As far as I can judge there is no danger to vegetation in using the refuse. Here it is dumped out of the gene- rator under a Holly, which to all appearance has received no injury. — S. M., Auchttrarder. Seeing " W. A. B.'s" enquiry respecting the above, I may state that a few years ago when I was at Birrowmore, Chester, the residence of Mr. Hugh Lyle Smyth, J.P., the acetylene gas was put in whilst I was there. The quantity of refuse that wsis available accumulated to many tons. Loads of it were carted and spread on the orchard, which is kept lightly dug and hoed, and it gradually worked into the soil, and quantities of it were buried in the kitchen garden in a quarter which was trenched up to get out the rock (red sandstone). The soil on that piece before excavation varied from 6 inches to 1 foot in depth, and it was filled back 3 feet deep. As some of the present men were there at the time, I feel sure if " W. A. B." were to write to Mr. Ritchie, the present head gardener, he would get further information as to what the results were, and, as the gas is still used, he may find out if it is employed for any other purpose. — A. D. Morris, Bodyagallen Gardens, Llandudno. Fruit-growing in Perthshire.— While Blairgowrie is well known to almost every horticulturist as the centre of a flourishing fruit- growing industry, it is not sufficiently appre- ciated that in other parts of the same c uinty there are similar rising iniiustries. Among the places which have turned their attention to fiuit is Alyth, whose industries were severely crippled about seven years ago by the destruction ot its only spinning-mill by fire. This was not rebuilt, md great lack of employment ensued, but, in addition to other indusiriep, within the last three years fruit-growing has greatly increased, and this season there are about 100 acres in fruit, in holdings of from half an acre to about twetily- five. Like other places, Alyth has found it desirable to have a fruit-growers' association, of which Mr. A. M. Ferguson is the able secretary, and good prices have been realised since its formation. Last year about £iG0 was spent in wages during the picking season, and, with a good crop, this should be nearly doubled in 1905. At Coupar fruit-growing is extending rapidly, and soon the increased acreage will enable the growers to compete on more equal terms with other centres. Last year witnessed a great extension, especially in Raspberry cultivation, md there is every ptosp^ect of a considerable further increase shortly. The requirements of the large preserving works of Messrs. J. M'Neo and Son at Crieff have led to that firm taking a lease of an extensive farm, called Coliny, near the town of Crieff, the larger part of the farm being occupied by Raspberries, Strawberries, 218 THE GARDEN. [Apkil 15, 1905. Gooseberries, and other small fruits, while smaller growers in the district find a profitable market for their produce at the works. At Scone the Scone Preserve Works draw largely upon the local produce for their supply, and this has led to a gradual extension of the area occupied by fruit. In the Blairgowrie district itself, as has been already mentioned in The Garden, great extensions of the acreage under fruit, principally under Raspberries, are con stantly taking place, and, despite the fears expressed by some that fruit-growing is being overdone, there is no decrease in the prosperity of the industry. About £36,000 are said to have been realised for fruit last year, and the general excellence of the fruit and the able management of the Fruit Growers' Association secure a ready market at a remunerative price. — A. Notes from Baden-Baden. — I am delighted with a clump of Iris reticulata var. Melusine, sky blue flowers with an orange crest. Tulipa kaufmannianapulcherrima has been very showy ; it is an early, very large flower, glistening yellow with scarlet streaks and blotches inside, and scarlet with a yellow rim outside. Chiono- doxa amabilis is still in full beauty ; it haa a large truss and large flowers of a soft white with a faint shade of rosy lilac, and it is three weeks later than Lucilise. A new species of Saxifraga (Megasea) from North-Western India has flowers of snowy whiteness. Physoptychis gnaphalodes is a very handsome, shining, yellow-flowered Crucifer, very suitable for the alpine garden ; its grey mossy foliage heightens the brilliant yellow of the blooms. Anemone blanda seems to give improved forms. One flower here was over 2 inches across. — Max Leichtlin, Baden-Baden. ShOPtia uniflOPa.— With reference to the differences between S. uniflora and S. galaci- folia mentioned in my notes in The Garden for the 1st inst., kindly print the following: As it is not unlikely that the two Shortias may be occasionally confounded, the chief differences between them may be noted here, placing the characters of the older-cultivated S. galacifolia first and those of S. uniflora in italics. Flower- stems 3 inches to 4 inches in length ; flower-stems 2 inches to 3 inches in length. Corolla funnelled, about 1 inch wide at mouth, pure white ; corolla ividely expanded, Ij inches or so wide, usually pale blush in colour. Petals never reflexed at edges ; petals often reflexed at edges. Stamens contained in corolla tube ; stamens projecting beyond corolla. Leaves 2 inches or more long ; leaves often less than 1 inch long on flovering plants. Leaf-stalks 2 inches to 4 inches long ; leaf stalks hut little more than 1 inch in length or less. The plants of S. uniflora grovping here may be further noted by their flowers opening early in March, quite three or four weeks in advance of those of the American species, while the plant, owing to the shortness of its petioles or leaf- stalks, is always dwarfer, its leaves forming an almost flat carpet near the soil. — D. S. Fisn. Cyclamen hedepaefolium.— A con- siderable amount of uncertainty exists in the nomenclature of Cyclamens, the above title being applied to two distinct species, namely, C. repandum or vernum and C. neapolitanum. Correctly speaking, the only Cyclamen that has a right to the synonym of C. hedeiaifolium is the April-flowering C. repandum, but the September- blooming C. neapolitanum is even more generally known as C. hedersefolium, especially in the south-west. This is the fpecies that Mr. .John Terrington refers to under the title of C. heder;e- folium on page 1.5SJ. That its characteristics fully entitle it to the synonym was pointed out by the late Mr. Wolley-Bod about ten years ago, when he wrote: "The commonest misnomer of 0. neapolitanum is C. hedentfolium, a name which corresponds with its nature, for both in shape and colour its leaves strongly resemble those of wild Ivy, and had not that name been anticipated by another species, its propriety as THE MOSS PINK (PHLOX SUBULATA). applied to C. neapolitanum could not be called in question." Mr. Peter Barr's statement, referred to by Mr. Terrington, that C. Coum and C. ibericum flower in the autumn, was evidently a. lapsus calami. — S. W. Fitzherbert. CpoCUS ObeSUS. — In looking through my garden on the last day of March I found that Crocus obesus was the latest of the Crocuses to flower here, but a search through Maw's "Mono- graph " and a number of other works of reference fails to give any authority for the name of Obesus. This Crocus has been offered for years by Messrs. Barr and Sons and others under the name here given, but I am inclined to think that it may be one of the many forms of Crocus vernus. While this may be so, it is a pleasing little Crocus, the colouring being correctly de- scribed in lists as "purple, shading to darker purple at the base." It is valuable, even for its late flowering alone, for it is in perfection here when practically all the other Crocuses are past their best. I shall be grateful to anyone who will throw some light upon its name and origin. — S. Arnott, Carsethom, by Dumfries, Scotland. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. THE DWARF PHLOXES. THIS North American family includes many popular garden plants, the best known of which are the numerous varieties of P. paniculata, or decussata as it is sometimes called. These constitute a prominent feature in many gardens, either planted in groups in the herbaceous border or placed by themselves in beds. These, with P. maculata and P. glaber- rima, form the taller growing section of the family, which also includes a number of dwarfer- growing kinds of spreading habit, combined with free- flowering quilities. These low-growing plants are excellent subjects for ledges and banks in the rock garden, or for a well-drained position in the front of the herbaceous border. They are charming in spring, one of the most beautiful being the Moss Pink (P. subulata), which forms large cushions of foliage close to the ground so thickly covered with flowers that the foliage is often entirely hidden. Though 'per- fectly hardy, they suffer a great deal from damp in winter, so that they require a sunny and well- drained position in light, rich soil. All the dwarf Phloxes are readily increased by cuttings in summer. These may be taken off after the plants have finished flowering, inserted in pots in sandy soil, and placed in a close, shady frame for a time, when they will strike freely and form nice plants ready for planting out in the late autumn. Old-established clumps which have formed large patches may be top-dressed by working in some rich soil between the trailing branches. The following are all dwarf kinds, the tallest scarcely reaching 12 inches in height : P. amiena (Bot. Mag , t. 1308).— A well- known charming plant of prostrate habit, with evergreen hairy leaves and bright rose-coloured flowers in profusion. It has been in cultivation for nearly a century, and is a native of the hills and dry barrens of Virginia and other parts of the United States. A useful, early-flowering plant, it grows freely in any good soil, and is used extensively for spring effect. P. dicaricata (Bot. Mag., t. 163). — This is one of the tallest of this set, but seldom exceeds 1 foot in height. It produces its large, pale blue dowers in April and May. Unlike most of the other dwarf Phloxes, it does not last long in Bower, although it is well worth growing on account of its hardiness and free-flowering qualities, if of short duration. There is a variety with almost white flowers, and a variety canadensis with smaller flowers, but broader segments and darker in colour, blue, tinged with lilac. The latter was introducEd from Canada in 18:20, whilst the type has been in cultivation since 1740. P. Douglasii is a native of the Rocky Mountains, and varies a good deal in the colour of its flowers, which are purple, lilac, or white. It is of tufted habit, with rigid leaves, one form growing on dry, sunny positions and forming a close cushion, whilst another form grows in nioister places and is of laxer habit. P. orala {Bot. Mag., t. 528).— A handsome plant, with somewhat fleshy leaves and smooth stems, hearing corymbs of large, rich, purple-rose coloured flowers. It has been in cultivation since the year 1759, and is very hardy, doing well in stronger soil and moister situations than the others. It grows about t) inches high. April 15, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 219 This plant is often grown under the name of P. Carolina, which is really a variety of this species with taller, hairy stems and smaller flowers, light purple-rose in colour, and starred in the centre with a darker shade. This latter plant was the first kind of Phlox introduced into this country, having been in cultivation since the year 1728 It is a native of South Carolina, and is less hardy than the type P. ovata. P. reptam{V. stolonifera, Bot. Mag., t. 563). — A pretty little plant of dwarf creeping habit and reddish purple flowers, suitable for the rock garden. It is very free flowering, sending up numerous stems 4 inches to 6 inches high about the beginning of May, each bearing about six of its richly-coloured flowers. A useful plant for spring bedding, as it is easily propagated by its runners, and thrives well in light, rich soil in a partially shady position. It is a native of damp woods in the Alleghany region of the United States. P. Sldlaria is a native of Southern Illinois, where it is found on the cliffs of the Kentucky River in fissures of precipitous rooks. It is closely allied to P. subulata, but is of more spreading habit, has longer leaves, and more scattered flowers. These are very pale blue or almost white in colour. P. s. var. lilacina is a charming free-flowering form, producing an abundance of bloom, and lasting for a consider- able time in beauty. This plant is of hybrid origin, and is sometimes placed as a variety of subulata, but it is more closely allied to P. Stellaria. P. subulata (Moss Pink, Bot. Mag , t. 411). — A prostrate growing evergreen perennial, forming Moss-like tufts of matted foliage only a few inches high, covered in spring with sheets of flowers of various shades of colour. The type has pale purple or flesh-coloured flowers, with a dark purple eye, and is a native of the Eistern United States, growing on rocky bare hills and sandy banks. Many improved garden forms have been raised from this species, some of very compact habit, others of free growth and taller in stature, with flowers of many shades of crimson, purple, rose, lilac, and white. P. subulata var. nivalis (Nelsoni) is a well-known plant, with its sheets of white flowers in spring quite covering the foliage. A hybrid between this species and amoena has been named P. procumbens, and is like a subulata with broader foliage and slightly taller in habit. A pretty and rather rare plant is P. pilosa, which grows about 1 foot high, with flat corymbs of purple flowers of large size. It is figured in the Bot. Mag., t. 1307, and, like all the others, is a native of North America. W. Irving. TREES AND SHRUBS. PRUNING SHRUBS. PRUNING is one of the most important of garden operations, and also one of the least understood. Proper pruning at the right time results in more vigorous growth and increased flori- ferousness, but to hack away indis- criminately is to spoil the decorative value of many plants for years. Generally speaking, spring-flowering trees and shrubs should be cut back directly after they have bloomed, and those which flower in the summer or autumn should only have the weakly wood thinned out to admit light and air to those growths that are left. There is, however, no hard and fast rule for pruning, individual species having to be treated according to their requirements, but the following sum- maries of various trees and shrubs will be found helpful. Laurustinus and Forsythia should be cut back in spring direcily after flowering, and the follow- ing, though blooming later, are all the better if cut back in spring, viz., Colutea, Hedysarum, and Hypericum. Such flowering shrubs as Buddleia, Deutzia, Kerria, L'iycesteria, Philadelphus, Ribes, Spiraeas, Lilacs, Snowberry, and Guelder Roses should only have their growths thinned out after they have flowered, but, if any have become too large, they can be cut down in early spring. This will mean the loss of a season's flowers, but the plants will grow and bloom more vigorously afterwards. Furze and Brooms should not be pruned at all, but any overgrown plants should be cut back in May. Willows, Dogwoods, and other plants that are grown for the colour of their stems in winter should be cut down each spring, as the young wood is always the more brightly coloured. The common and Portugal Liurels, Hollies, Yews, Oamanthus, PhillyrfeiS, and Privet should be trimmed in May — either lightly if they only require shaping, or be cut hard back if they have become too large. Berberis and Rhododendrons should not, as a general rule, be pruned at all, but, if they are in bad health or have become too large, they can be cut hard back in April, and, though this will mean the loss of one season's flower at least, the plants will be all the better afterwards. When Rhodo- dendrons have been cut down a watch must be kept for any suckers that spring from under the ground, as many Rhododendrons are grafted plants, and the suckers are merely R. ponticum, which will smother the better variety if not kept down. Such flowering trees as Prunu3, Pyrus, Thorns, Laburnums, Magnolias, and Catalpas should not be cut back unless they have become unshapely, but the branches should be thinned occasionally to admit light and air to the centre of the tree. This should be done directly after they have flowered. Chestnut, Lime, Ash, Oak, Poplar, Elm, Beech, Hornbeam, and Robinia should be pruned in August or September, but this should consist more of a good thinning rather than a cutting back, though the latter is necessary if the trees have become too large or unshapely. Pines and Evergreen Oaks are best left until October, just as the plants are getting dormant, and should not be cut more than can possibly be helped, as they are very impatient of pruning. Spruces and Silver Fir should never be pruned, while Cupressus, Retinosporas, Thujis, and some of the Junipers are benefited by an annual or biennial clipping. In pruning it is necessary to give a coating of gas tar over any cuts that are an inch or more in diameter, and care must be taken when removing large, heavy branches to saw upwards from beneath a little way before cutting them through from above, as large limbs are apt, when partly cut through, to break off suddenly and tear a piece of the main trunk away in their fall. In cutting away any limbs that spring from the main parts of a tree, they should not be cut through as to leave a stump, which will decay, perhaps even into the trunk, but be sawn as close as possible to the trunk. Then, if the wound is covered with gas tar, the tree will keep sound and gradually cover the place with fresh bark. Bagshot, Surrey. J. Claric. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. ) LATE -KEPT APPLES. [To THE Editor of "The Gaedbn."] SI R , — As incidental to the present dis- cussion, may I state that the Royal Horticultural Society's fruit committee did, at its last meeting, invite the council of the society to agree to the furnishing of a list of varieties which are past their best, and should not be exhibited ! at the society's shows or meetings after the new ] year is in. The committee were most unwilling j to make fish of one and fowl of another of the various Apple exhibitors, but realised, all the j same, that so many dishes are presented to their [ notice for awards, late in the winter, of varieties that have long ceased to be edible or to have any domestic value. It has been strongly complained to the committee that granting medals to varie- ; ties long past their best is misleading to the ! public, who know no better. Let us have exhibits of really good late-keeping and well- kept varieties by all means. Any such exhibit of from twenty-four to thirty dishes, though of less imposing appearance, has infinitely more value than a collection of one hundred dishes, one-half of which are, when shown, good for nothing. A. D. ANEMONE BLANDA IN THE I BORDER. ' [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I am sending two photographs, taken a few days ago (the 21st ult. ), of a section of my garden, with many regrets that the art of photo- graphing in natural colours is so little advanced. It will be seen, however, I hope, how bright and effective are the patches and edgings of Anemone blanda in the borders. By themselves they form a charming picture when the sun is shining, with their neat foliage and the delicate shades of blue, white, and pale rose of their numerous flowers, and it always seems strange to me that they are not more extensively grown in private gardens. With me they have never been so glorious as they are this spring ; they seed most A bordering of the blue winter wisdflower (anemone blanda). 220 THE GAKDEN. [April 15, 1905. freely — too freely, perhaps, ia some places — and are rapidly extending themselves, in " attack formation" as it were, over the whole garden. The little seedlings are easily removed at first, but soon strike deep into the soil and require careful watching in a crowded border or among choice plants. I find the flowers vary from pure white to fine deep blue, while some have a decided rosy tint. There is a so-called variety, A. blanda rosea, and another with blue and white flowers termed scythinica, but I really do not see the necessity for any "trinomials" in the case of this variable species. S. G. Reid. [We reproduce the photograph of the Anemone. —Ed.] THE BULLFINCH IN THE GARDEN. [To THE Editor of "The Garden. "] Sir, — My opinion regarding the bullfinch is one of admiration and detestation. I cannot but admire his beautiful plumage, nor can I fail to detest his wholesale destruction of perfectly sound fruit-buds. I am not prepared to say that he will reject a bud which contains a grub, but I am sure that such buds do not satisfy his voracious appetite. I can also afiirm, to my coal, that any amount of old and unprotected fruit trees will not prevent his destructive raids on young and healthy plantations of Black Currants, Gooseberries, Plums, Cherries, &;c. Two years ago I had ample ocular evidence of this fact. The gardens here are partly surrounded by an extensive and picturesque old orchard, which is a happy hunting ground for many feathered friends. But Mr. Bullfinch found his surround- ings in the orchard less to his taste than a large plantation of flourishing Black Currants giving promise of a splendid crop of fruit. In two days these bushes were almost denuded of buds by no other agency than that of bullfinches. Since that period I have used stringent measures to keep this — one of the gardener's worst enemies — at bay. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. ENGLISH V. AMERICAN APPLES. [To THE Editor or "The Garden."] Sir, — The letters upon this subject in The Garden are most interesting. Much that has been said is only too true of our Apples and cul- ture, but I am convinced that a deal has been said that is not the outcome of practical know- ledge about English versus American sorts. I believe that if the opinion of the best judges was taken they would decide in favour of many of our own varieties. We have good, bad, and indifferent among our sorts, and far too many of them. Still, we have Apples that are the very best, and I endorse the opinion that has often been given, namely, that no country produces them 80 good from the point of view of flavour. Those who say we have no good sorts after Christmas surely cannot have had much experi- ence in growing and keeping the best. I can remember good varieties forty-five years ago that were kept in excellent condition in a stone lower until May. I doubt if anything finer is to be had to-day than some of the Wheeler's Russet and long keeping Nonpareils. But at that time the fine imported cooking Apples were not to be had. Some three years ago a friend sent to me from Birmingham the best four of the imported sorts in February, and I sent him four sorts grown in our garden. He endorsed my original statement in favour of the home-grown varieties. In colour I admit many imported Apples are finer. But even here if some of our varieties are grown in the best soil, and by growers who understand their work, they prove close competitors. In regard to Cox's Orange Pippin having lost its flavour by the new year, in my experience this is not so when they are kept in a good store. Well-grown Mannington's Pearmain, Boston Russet, Cockle's Pippin, Lord Burghley, Scarlet Pearmain, Stur- mer Pippin, King of Tompkin's County, A^h- mead's Kernel, and several others are a good selection, and hard to beat for flavour. Neither are they of poor appearance when well grown. Much has been said against our cooking Apples, but who can complain of Blenheim Orange, Golden Noble, Kentish Fillbasket, Lady Hen- niker, Alfriston, Annie Elizibeth, Northern Greening, Hambledon Deux Ans, and others one might name? Wellington would be named by some, but I prefer Alfriston ; the former is too acid. For years I have tried many of the imported varieties, comparing them beside home- grown ones, and I fail to see how the former are superior. I admit King of Tompkin's County is good, but I have fruit grown on a bush tree equalling imported fruits in every way. But who can say Baldwins are good ? Another side of this question is the price. Only think of paying 8d. per pound for Newtown Pippins ; and this was charged in our town during early March. A fruiterer, when showing me a choice sample in his shop window, on being asked if he could charge this for the best Cox's Orange Pippin, said he could not, but he considered Cox's the best Apple on the market. This same man ofl'ered me 'Id. per pound for good Cox's Orange in January. Now it is evident that size and colour are the chief points in market Apples. In the autumn this was evident by the price given for large Peasgood's Nonesuch in Covent Garden ; but this has only size and colour to recommend it. It is evident, too, that the British public will pay for these attributes. Latterly I have been using, baked and stewed. Lord Burghley, Annie Elizibeth, and Hambledon Deux Ans, and want nothing better. Annie Elizabeth does well at Sherborne Castle, and keeps till the end of March. Chard. J. Crook. LILIUM TESTACEUM IN THE SOUTH-WEST OF SCOTLAND. [To the Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I recollect reading some time ago that Lilium testaceum is becoming scarcer, and less reliable than was at one time the case. One would like to know in what quarter this is ex- perienced, as it is one of the most satisfactory of our Lilies in the south-west of Scotland. I was visiting a small garden recentlj' which was under- going its periodical cleaning up for the spring, and saw the owner busy lifting, separating, and replanting a fine, heallhy lot of bulbs of Lilium testaceum. Contrary to the usual practice, it is done in this garden in spring after the plants have made some growth, and the bulbs are replanted a few inches apart. This is done every three years or so, and it is surprising what fine flowers are produced under this treatment. In another part of the same garden there is a clump which was divided last year, after having been undisturbed for a rather longer time. It con- sisted of no fewer than twenty-three flowering bulbs. The soil is of a rather sandy nature, some parts being on a sxndy, and others on a rather stitf, subsoil. In several other gardens in the sameneighbourhoodLilium testaceumdoes equally well, but in these it is not subjected to removal in spring, as a rule. Carselhorn, Dumfries. S. Arnott. GARRYA ELLIPTICA [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Mr. J. Jeffrey's note of this handsome Califoruian shrub flourishing in the open in Kirkcudbright should furnish proof to planters that it is not as tender as its habitat would imply. It is, indeed, such a hardy subject that there are probably few places in the British Isles where it would need wall protection, for il succeeds in the open in bush form in the neigh- bourhood of Edinburgh. Another valuable characteristic of this shrub is that it will accommodate itself to almost every description of site and environment, and will produce its catkins as freely on a steep bank of rabble that is dust-dry in summer as on a level surface of prepared soil, though its growth will naturally not be so vigorous. In partially shaded positions it may also be seen bearing numerous tassels, so that there are few situations for which it is unsuited. In the south-west many splendid specimens are to be seen, some 1.5 feet in height and as much through, which bear catkins in such profusion that their foliage is almost hidden. Some of these catkins are 1 foot in length. S. W. F. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Seeing in The Garden during the past few weeks references to the Garry elliptica, I may state that when in the employ of Mr. H. ll Smyth at Barrowmore, Chester, I was sent to Arley Hall, Northwich, for cuttings of Rosa arvensis to grow for fox coverts. Mr. Smith, the head gardener, kindly showed me round, and I well remember admiring a large tree of the Garrya on the wall. Mr. Smith kindly gave me a few cuttings, one of which grew well and was eventually planted on the gardener's cottage at Barrowmore facing west, and that is a cold district. I believe it is doing well. BodtjsijaUen. A. D. Morris. THE WHITE SPINDLE TREE. (EUONTMUS EUROP^EOS ALEUS. ) [To the Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — Mr. Richard Parker, in referring to ihe well-known Spindle Tree on page 157, makes no mention of the very handsome white-fruited variety. This is extremely distinct and effective, and serves as an admirable contrast to the com- mon form ; indeed, when the capsules open, the bright orange seeds, gleaming from the centres of the ivory-white, expanded carpels, at first sight have the appearance of flowers. This variety is sometimes found growing wild in Devonshire, and last autumn I saw several large branches, covered with fruit, that had been cut on Haldon Hill, near Exeter, while in Mr. Archer-Hind's garden I have met with both the type and the white variety thicky laden with berries. The deep red tint assumed by the leaves before they fall is also very beautiful. S. W. Fitzherbebt. THE SCARCITY OF ONIONS. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Any thing written by Mr. Beckett in regard to vegetable culture commands respect. The scarcity of Onions this past season has been often commented upon, due to local failures of some ol the foreign crops, which the British markets seem dependent upon. Mr. Beckett is quite within the mark when he says " much of our land is well suited for Onion culture," but does Mr. Beckett conjecture that an increased growth of Onions in this country will stop importations or convince purchasers that English-grown Onions are superior? From several years' experience of marketing Onions I am bound to confess that there is a limit to the demand for English-grown bulbs, and particularly when foreign ones are available. Then, with regard to the growth of large Onions by transplantation, I find that preference is given to the ordinary outdoor-sown stock ; indeed, I have had to take a smaller sum per hundredweight for the apparently better root, because customers preferred the smaller ones. The Spanish Onion is a great favourite with hosts of consumers, by reason, it is said, of its milder flavour. To compete with these there is need of a mild-flavoured stock being made prominent by cultivation, and the Spanish grower and seller challenged. Where these are so favoured is more particularly among the working classes, who prefer Onions in a raw state. Even when grown large by indoor sowing and transplanting I find there is still much prejudice against them, and the same preference for the Spanish and Egyptian. April 15, 1905.j THE GARDEN. 221 For home or private use I find little demand for the higher-class Onion, yet they are in every day use for flavouring. No doubt in this respect the gardener is absolutely at the mercy of the chej, ■ not only as regards Onions, but other vegetables as well. I do not think there is another vege- table of the garden that commands the same admiration as a good bed of transplanted Onions, apart altogether from their culinary use and value. If there were a corresponding demand for them from the mansion and the greengrocer, then there would be certainly stronger induce- ments to extend this phase of vegetable culture. Onions, like Apples, require to be well stored, j pools can be formed, they are the most con and unless this is done there is much loss from i venient, and a series of small pools cut out to early growth and softening of the bulbs. It is ' ' towards spring that Onions sell more readily, presumably because at the time of harvesting and later there are so many put upon the market, crowded, as it is then, by the influx of Egyptian cargoes. Mr. Beckett very truly says " only good-keeping varieties should be grown." If this is done and they are attractively "roped," species of Crocus, Arum italicum, Hepaticas, Narcissus minimus, spring Snowflake (Leucojum vernum), Iris persica, I. stylosa, I. Histrio, &o. , and amongst winter - flowering shrubs Hamamelis arborea (Witch Hazel), winter- flowering Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum). Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima), Garrya elliptica, &c. The beautiful water and wild garden is to be made from gently sloping ground, and if it forms a dell or valley the water garden can be made in the low ground, leaving the higher part for the wilder effect Primrose (P. japonica), P. sikkimensis, P. Parryi, P. denticulata, Ranunculus gramineus, and Spiraja japonica. To make a homo for all the sorts of Hardy Water Lilies, the water in the ponds should range in depth from 9 inches to 2J feet. Where the water is 1\ feet deep plant the most robust-growing Nymphieas, such as Nymph*a Marliacea albida, N. M. carnea, N. M. chroraatella, N. Candida, N. colossea, N. Gladstoni, and N. alba at 6 feet apart. In the 2 feet deep water plant N. gloriosa, In this water garden, if small N. tuberosa rosea, N. t. Richardsoni, N. odorata gigantea, N. Marliacea rosea, N. lucida, N. Robinsoni, and N. William Doogue at 5 feet apart all ways. In the water \\ feet deep plant Nymphsea Arc-en-ciel, N. andreana, N. suavissima, N. atropurpurea, N. Aurora, N. Barkleyi rosea, N. caroliniana, N. c. nivea, N. ellisiana, N. and so preserved until late winter by cool treat ment, profit may be made more readily, but, at the same time, it must not be forgotten that the foreigner realises the open jstate of our markets and the partiality of the\British consuming public for his goods so we can gain no tithe of monopoly. We have arrived at a period when hands are held up against further planting of dessert Apples ; it would not require much enforced effort to bring about the same thing in Onion cul- ture. Another point not to be overlooked is the fact that to reach the highest perfection in Onion growth an expensive outlay in manure and labour is incurred. This Mr. Beckett emphasises when he says, " To grow Onions well the land must be deeply and thoroughly worked, adding plenty of good farmyard manure," and though, as he says, they can be grown on the same site for many years, it could not be profitably done without further farmyard or other manure dressings. I doubt whether the market gardener can afford to devote so much expense to "first aids." He has, unfortunately, Siberian Iris (I. sibirica), Spirasa palmata, S. p. to study "first profits" resulting from his season's alba, S. p. elegans, S. Aruncus, S. venusta, S. look as natural as possible, with the water wind- ing from one to the other through wide and narrow channels, with suitable water plants in the water and on the side banks of these channels, will have a far prettier effect in summer than one, large pond. Every plant can be viewed with [ Froebelli, N. fulva, N. James Brydon, N. ease. Sufficient short-mown grass should sur- ; Liydekeri fulgens, N. L. rosea, N. L. lilacea, round or partly surround each pond, so that I N. L. purpurata, N. flammea, N. ignea, N. ladies can walk about comfortably to view the | Marliacea punctata, N. odorata alba, N. o. rosea, flowers of the Water Lilies or other aquatic i N. o. luciana, N. sulphurea, N. s. grandiflora, plants. N. Seignoureti, N. sanguinea, and N. William Boggy backgrounds can be made to some of Falconer at about 4A feet to .5 feet apart. To these pools, and bold groups of Iris Kiempferi, prevent overcrowding, the old leaves should be pulled off from BOG PLANTS, WITH BLUE AGAPANTHDS IN FOREGROUND, labour. W. S. WATER GARDENING. THE WATER AND WILD GARDEN. WATER and wild gardening are now becoming very popular, and rightly so. The two go well together, and a well- managed garden of this sort will give endless interest and pleasure to those having a love for natural beauty over a longer period of the year than any other form of outdoor flower gardening. An immense variety of plants can be worked into these gardens at different times of the year. Sheltered nooks should be made for winter and spring flowering plants, such as the hardy Cyclamen, Helleborus, blue Primrose, Winter Aconites, the Forde Abbey strain of Polyanthus, which is almost perpetual flowering, the various gigantea, Lythrum virgatum, L. roseum superbum, Epilobium angustifolium, E. a. album, Gentiana Audrewsii, the tall Day Lilies, Lysimachia cleth- roides, herbaceous Phlox, Senecio japonica, Saxifraga peltata, Rodgersia podophylla, the various Trollius, &c. , and more in the back- ground, and where they cannot encroach on these Simoni, Bambusa palmata, Phyllostachys aurea, finer flowering plants, Bullrushes, the various . P. Henonis, P. Mitis, P. nigra, P. viridi glauces tall bog and Water Reeds, and other rank-growing cens, and P. Falconeri. To these Bamboos, time to time. It will give them a much fresher and brighter appearance, and the blooms will be better seen. There are one or two gems for the shallow water round the outside of these ponds, which must not be lost sight of, viz., Nymphiea pygmsea, N. p. Helvola, and N. odorata minor. In deep or shallow water the Water Haw- thorn (Aponogeton dis- tachyon) will do well and bloom freely the greater part of the year. The Water Violet (Hottonia palustris) should have a place in clear, rather deep water, so that the Fern- like foliage can be seen in the water. In shallow water Eichornia azurea, Sagittaria monlevidensis, Limnocharis humbold- tiana, and Villarsia indica should have a place. These four plants are beautiful and interesting, but require wintering under glass in a warm house. Plants for the Water-sides. In the moist ground in the water garden several sorts of Bamboos thrive well, and have a semi-tropical appearance. The following sorts do well : Arundinaria japonica, A. nitida, A. bog plants can be put. In the water in the channels connecting the various ponds plant the Arrowheads (Sagittaria japonica), S. gracilis, and the more beautiful variety called S. japonica raonstrosa, also the flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus), Marsh Forget-me-not, Myosotis palustris, Orontium aquaticum, the Arum Lily (Calla aethiopica), Peltandra virginica, and Alisma natans. Then on the sides of the channels and close to the water plant all the varieties of Marsh Marigold (Caltha), Cardamine, Astrantia carniolica, Mocassin flower (Cypripedium specta- bile), Fankias in variety, Helonias bullata, Parnassia palustris, P. caroliniana, Pinguicula, Himalayan Primrose (Primula rosea), Japanese Eulalia japonica, E. j. variegata, E. j. zebrina, and the varieties of Pampas Grass should be added. Among these plants also Gunnera raanicata and G. scabra should stand out conspi- cuously, their gigantic foliage being very telling. Here also all the sorts of Cannas, the varieties of the scarlet Lobelia (L. cardinalis), all the Agapanthus umbellatus, the varieties of Hydrangea hortensis, and Erythrina Crista- galli make a grand display in the hot months of summer planted in the grass, and when they are taken up at the end of the summer their places can be filled with Forget-me-nots, Polyanthus, Hyacinths, and Daisies. Hydrangea paniculata delights in this moist ground, and should be planted in groups' 222 THE GARDEN. [April 15, 1905. permanently a short dis- tance from the bog ground. Amongst these plant Lilium auratum, L. tigri- num, and L. pardalinum. If the young wood of these Hydrangeas is cut back every winter to within two or three eyes of the base they will make inne bushes, and the heads of flowers will be very large. W. J. TOWNSEND. Berks. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1272. tufted habit which one usually associates with these plants, nevertheless some of the newer sorts deserve a place in the beds > and borders. The tendency of the newer sorts is towards a more tufted growth, and the variations in their markings are dis- tinctly good and specially effective when massed. Countess of Kintore, which for years was regarded with so much favour on account of its fancy markings, has long since been improved upon, and it is difficult to under- stand why this old sort, with its tall ungainly _ „«^ .ir- . ..jT growth, is cultivated while DARWIN TULIP j ' ■ "'ja' "jiE- "t^^ there are so many really CLARA BUTT ' »*V'J*'^ ' * Jljll'^ excellent sorts of more [ " ' ' "^ .^.^ .. recent introduction. IN The Garden of L^__„ _ :_ ' : Flowers with broad the 4th ult. a margins and others with coloured plate po.nds of hardy nymph.s;as (water lilies). a pleasing Picotee edging was given of the have increased oonsider- beautiful Darwin Tulip Margaret or varieties are to be had in abundance, and these ably in recent years, probably owing to the Marguerite, and an accompanyino' note '° various tones of yellow, from the palest prim- persistency with which one grower alone has " ■ .. ~ .. - . rose to the richest orange yellow, it is possible by ! followed up their improvement. _ Among this on the value of the self Tulips for massing. The coloured plate given with this number is of the self-coloured Tulip Clara Butt, one of the handsomest of the whole race. A bed of it is a rare picture of beautiful colouring. the use of the various tones of this one colour ' type of the flower are to be found many dainty alone to make a pleasing display. The growth, too, forms, and although they may not perhaps pro- of Tufted Pausies of a yellow colour has improved duce the effact that the self-coloured flowers considerably, most of the newer sorts being very invariably do, yet there is a beauty in these tufted and at the same time freelj' flowered. margined sorts that places them in the front rank Among white Tufted Pansies there are creamy for bedding. Habit, in many instances, is dis- white, others of a rich cream colour, and some of tinctly good, while their free-flowering propensity the purest white imaginable. These, in assooia- cannot be denied. tion with some of the softer tones of yellow, should The miniature- flowered Pansies, when once be taken full advantage of. Those of a blue , they get well into growth, are invaluable as colour, too, are increasing in variety, and instead i edgings, and more particularly useful in the rock 0 W that we have got through the | of confining our selection to blues of an imperial garden. There will come a time when those who worst of the unpleasant weather colour, our selection may vary from those of value the alpine garden will learn to regard the experiences of the season, no time raauve-blue, passing on to heliotrope-blue, and small-flowered Pansies with more favour than should be lost in carrying out the finishing with those of an indigo blue colour, they do to-day. Many delightful little gems are spring planting of these beautiful There are other intermediate shades, of which a being raised and distributed, and they only need free- flowering hardy plants. Assum- reference to any well-known specialist's list will to be grown to be appreciated. Clumps of these ing the ground was deeply dug and well manured enable anyone with the slightest appreciation of : little plants, one or two years old, when well THE FLOWER GARDEN PANSIES FOR THE GARDEN. N some time since, and the surface soil left in a these pleasing tones to make a selection certain rough condition, the ground should now be in a to please. nice workable condition. The frosts and windy \ Of rose-coloured sorts we have very few repre- weather have brought the soil into a nice friable sentatives, yet they are worth a place where condition, and if this be broken up lightly with a , these plants are freely grown. Unfortunately, fork, and subsequently levelled down and the i the fancy marked flowers do not possess that quarters allocated to them be marked out, planting may proceed apace. To do this effectively one needs to consider what colour effects are to be produced, otherwise it is possible that incongruous arrangements may be brought into effect instead of those beautiful harmonies and contrasts which invariably follow a well - conceived scheme of planting. Tufted Pansies may now be had in so many pleasing shades of colour that nothing harsh or unplea- sant can possibly be created in whatever way they may be arranged in the beds or borders. Nevertheless, it is better when attempting to plan an idea for plant- ing to arrange the colours so that the best effects may be obtained. Yellow has always been a con- spicuous colour among Pansies, and now that so many beautiful rayless NYMPHAJA (water LILY) POND WITH BRITISH BOG PLANTS IN BACKGROUND, looked after in the rock garden, make delightful tufts freely studded with dainty blossoms, and this is the way in which they should be grown. Referring to the ordinary forms of the Tufted Pansies, the most effective way of planting them is to group them in the hardy border, or devote beds entirely to them. Often these plants ate planted too close together, this probably being due to the desire to create immediate effects. Tufted Pansies of normal growth should have at least 6 inches of space each, and we would prefer to allow fully 9 inches in order to do justice to them. The intervening spaces between the plants, when arranged in this way, invariably become covertd in the course of a season's growth, and the effect as the summer advances is distinctly pleasing. When planting use plenty of good, light, gritty soil. Plant firmly at all times, and put the plant into its collar, level- ling off neatly at the com- pletion of each one. Be particularly careful to deal with one variety at a time, otherwise there is the risk of the plants getting mixed. 'ipplement to THE GARDEN, April \'ith, 1905. TULIP CLARA BUTT April 15, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 223 ■and spoiling the general efifecfc when they come into flower. Plant only on nice bright days, when the ground may be broken up into a triable condition, as the soil when it is sticky and pasty is difficult to handle, and under such conditions is less likely to do justice to the plants. It is a good plan when the plants are received from the specialist to stand them in pots over- night, just sprinkling them overhead lightly with water from a fine-rosed can. This will have the eCFect of imparting to them crispness and fresh- ness, so that, as the moss is removed from them on the following morning, they may be dealt with more easily, and encouraged to become estab- lished more quickly as a consequence. This is a seemingly insignificant detail, but with plants that come from a distance a great deal depends upon its observance. Unless the weather be very dry for a day or two subsequent to the planting no water will be required ; but when this has to be applied give a liberal application, using a can with a fine rose for the purpose. Left in this condition it is safe to anticipate a successful issue, and in the course of a week or two the first of the fast developing buds should be fully open, and the display of the season begun. Just before closing let me emphasise the im- portance of making a wise selection. There is a certain amount of sentiment with regard to the use of the old and well-tried sorts, but seeing that raisers have been so busy of late in raising new sorts, and enriching our collections of cultivated varieties, the grower would be most unwise were he to neglect Che opportunities now offered of acquiring stock of new and choice sorts that supersede the older varieties owing to their enhanced value. They may be purchased very cheaply now, so that they are brought within the reach of everyone interested in the cultiva- tion of hardy flowers. White Varieties. There are several excellent white Tufted Pansies : White Champion. — A very pure white variety, with neat, rayless eye ; good habit. This is a splendid sort for the cooler weather of late summer and autumn. Seagull. — Another excellent pure white variety that maintains its position as a good bedding sort very well. The flowers are rayless and have a neat yellow eye ; habit good. Snowdrop. — T his variety, like the first- mentioned, was raised in 1903, and is of strong growth. The flowers are large and pure white. Masterpiece. — Charm - ing plant with a good tufted habit, developing quite freely rather small, rayless, pure white flowers. Edward Mason. -At one time this variety was thought highly of. It is of good growth, developing rayless pure white flowers. Maine. — This is a rather large flower of the purest white witn a yellow centre and slightly rayed. Emma Sophia. — Very pure, with a neat yellow eye and rayless ; very free. Marchioness. — A creamy white self, one of the freest to bloom. As a bedding plant it is good, but there are others better. This variety is synonymous with Niphetos. While Empre.'is. — This variety was also distri- buted under the name of Blanche, and is a fine circular, creamy white flower of good size and excellent substance. The habit is dwarf and sturdy. Devonshire Cream. — A beautiful variety, the flowers cream in colour and rayless. In the late season the growth is apt to get somewhat leggy, otherwise it is very fine. William Tell. — Introduced in 1898, this variety, for the years intervening, has given a good account of itself. It stands the hot and dry weather well, developing large, creamy white rayless flowers with a yellow centre ; specially good for bedding. Peace. — A seedling of 190.3, ground colour creamy white, tinted blush and heliotrope. The flowers are rayless, the growth is sturdy, and tufted. Favorite. — Seedling from Blue Gown, but with a better constitution. The plants are very free, the colour French blue, a quite distinct shade. Jackdaw. — Very beautiful variety, colour deep heliotrope-blue, with a slight suspicion of mauve and a neat yellow eye. Stout erect flower-stalks carry the blooms well above the growth. Kitty Bell. — Beautiful and distinct shade of lavender. It blooms profusely, and the flowers are rayless and pretty. It is rather vigorous in growth, and apt to get leggy in late summer. Virginius. — A lovely blush lilac rayless variety. Habit tufted, free flowering. Duncan. — A distinct imperial purple self, and slightly rayed ; bright yellow eye. The flowers are on erect stems well above the foliage. Admiral of the Blues. — This is a fine deep blue flower with an effective yellow eye and rayless. D. B. Crane. THE MANGO (mANGIFERA INDICA). (Reduced. Shown at the recent exhibition of Colonial Fruits held by the Royal Horticultural Society.) White Beauty. — This plant has a creeping growth, and the foliage is bright green. The flowers are rayless. Varieties of Other Colours. Quite a host of beautiful Tufted Pansies are of blue, lavender, lilac, and kindred shades. Marian Waters.— Hhis is a pretty blush lilac flower of circular shape, slightly rayed and with an orange eye. The flowers are borne on erect flower-stalks that stand out well above a charming tufted growth ; blooms profusely. Bridal Mom. — Pale heliotrope-blue. Free flowering and distinct. TROPICAL FRUITS. THE MANGO. 0 repeat the praises of the Mango (Mangifera indica) or to exhaust its uses would be unnecessary, seeing that it is one of the best known tropical fruits, and one of which there are more cultivated varieties than probably any other that could be mentioned. It is a native of India, in which country it is still best known under a number of varieties, though it is very largely grown in other hot countries. Though the fruits are so largely eaten by the natives, not only in India, but in all countries where the plant has been introduced, the taste for Mangoes amongst Europeans is said to be an acquired one. In the form of Chutney, Mangoes are well known in England, and the young fruits of the best varieties are also to be had preserved in syrup in bottles, but this is an expensive delicacy for dessert. With a plant so common, and which produces its fruits so abundantly, we might reasonably expect the fruits to become generally obtainable here, especially in view of a report published a few years ago on the fruit - exporting pros- pects of Dominica, where it was stated that " the supply of Mangoes in the island is practically un- limited, for the tree is one of the commonest in the lowlands. The people, being very fond of the fruit— indeed, in the season it forms an important part of their food— they eat it whilst walking along the roads, and throw the seeds away. These soon germinate, and as the seedlings are very hardy the tree springs up in all directions, and it is found by the sides of all the roads and paths. There are many varieties of the Mango in the island. The grafted kinds yield the best and most luscious fruits. Large quantities of Mangoes are shipped to the neighbouring islands." The season extends from April to October. Glaremont, Lympatone. John R. Jackson. 224 THE GARDEN. [Apeil 15, 1905. GARD6NING FOR B6GINN6RS. PEGGING DOWN ROSES. — When Rose pruning is being carried out it is well to remember that excel- lent results can be obtained by leaving almost their full length good shoots of the strong-growing varieties instead of shortening them back as is usual. Just cut off the ends of the shoots and then bring them parallel with the ground, fastening them in the soil by means of a peg. Great care must be taken in doing this so as not to break off the shoot at the base. It must be brought down gently at first, and not finally pegged down unless this can be done with ease. If good, well-ripened shoots are chosen they will burst into growth and flower at every bud throughout their length, and will prove a great delight. After the flowering season is over the pegged down shoots may be removed and other strong ones trained in to be pegged down the following year. This method of training Roses is carried out in several beds at Kew, and the effect is excellent. Grace Darling is one of the most satisfactory varieties for this purpose. Thinning Hardy Annuals. — Many people sow their seeds too thickly and injure the plants by delaying the thinning. Strong-growing plants, such as Godetias, may be thinned to 5 inches or 6 inches ; weaker-growing things to 4 inches. Do the work before the plants draw each other up weakly. L»ss disturbance will be given if the thinning is done immediately after a shower. Stir the soil often with a small handfork or hoe. A very light sprinkling of nitrate of soda or some other artificial will be helpful. Suh-lalerals, and How to Deal with Them. — These are young shoots which spring from the axils of the leaves of the current year's growth. They are common on Vines and Peaches where the growth is more or less restricted. For instance, in the culture of Vines, with the first bursting of the buds into growth the young shoots are thinned, leaving only those which are showing bunches of blossoms, which afterwards will develop into bunches of Grapes. In due course the terminal bud is pinched out. This is termed Stopping, and is generally effected when one or, at the most, two perfect leaves are showing beyond the bunch of Grapes. At this point the training begins by gradually drawing down the shoot to the wire in its proper position. This is generally done in a tentative manner. If hastily done at one operation, when the sap is forcibly ascending, the young shoots in their checked position may be unable to stand the strain and splinter off. Well-defined Ideas. — It simplifies matters if we work on a well-considered plan. The usual pro- cedure is, in the case of Vines, to stop all sub-laterals to one leaf and permit no further progress. But I think it is better to rub off all sub-laterals below the bunch and stop all above in the orthodox way. Nothing should be per- mitted to interfere with the work of the main leaves, which nourish the buds at their babe, and in spur pruning it is the bottom buds which are left at the autumn pruning to furnish the next year's crop. Recent Experiments in Manuring appear to show that a good deal of manure is wasted, and the crop made needlessly expensive. If a moderate use is made of chemical or artificial manures, in combination with stable or yard manure, the expense will be less and the result SIMPLE HINTS. more profitable. Potash and phosphates, being slow in action, should be sown with the crop, but nitrates should be given later when the plants are making growth, preferably in showery weather. Heading hack Young Fruit Trcex. — Any trees which have been well-developed in the nursery are termed cut-backs, and may be put in to train without cutting back, as the work is generally understood, but any tree deficient in branches must be cut back to secure a proper foundation. All trees planted in autumn should be cut back more or less now, but trees planted since Christ- mas should be left till next autumn. Let them have time to make roots, and the growth will be proportionately stronger and better for the worker's hand. Planting Asparagus. — April is the usual month for planting, just as the crowns are starting. Yearling plants which have been grown thinly are better than older ones. The modern idea is to plant in shallow trenches at wider intervals, and the experience of those who have tried this [ is against the old-fashioned long, narrow, grave- i like beds, with the plants thickly crowded together, where only the fittest survive. If Asparagus plants were allowed a square yard each, and were helped during growth in summer with chemical manures (a mixture of kainit and nitrate of soda has given good results), there would be less need for giving large quantities of stable manure, which is always expensive to move, even if it can be bought cheaply in the stable yard. If we are to save expense we must buy our manures in a concentrated form, and I am persuaded the chemist will yet do more for us, but the chemist, like those in other branches, must keep the price down if he wants to do business. N^U Growing in Kent. — To be profitable Fil- berts and Nuts must be pruned on the Kentish system. A Nut bush in a Kentish orchard may be described, so far as the shape goes, as a glori- fied Gooseberry bush. It has wide-spreading ' branches round a hollow centre, the main branches being full of feathery spray, which is the kind of growth required for bearing Nuts very freely. When the tree has been properly started it does not make gross wood, and the work of pruning is light. The 2ifut Walk. — In old-fashioned gardens in the country a shady Nut walk was a pleasant feature, and when fully developed formed a leafy tunnel in a retired part of the garden, frequently a dividing line between the kitchen and flower gardens. The bushes bore Nuts, of course, but that was not the chief end and object of their being. The bushes were seldom pruned. The Nut walk, like some other ancient ideas, is being revived in connexion with other old features in the garden. Hoeing and Forking. — Surface stirring soon makes its presence felt by the plants. Do the work only in dry weather, and, if the hoe is used, do not let it merely glide over the surface ; break it up 1 inch or 2 inches deep. This covering of loose soil will save much labour in watering in hot weather. We need not wait for weeds to be seen before the hoe is used. It is better to anticipate the weeds. Oiling Air to Gla,is Houses. — This is the gardener's term for ventilating, and most im- portant work it is. Deficient ventilation is the cause of a good many troubles. On the other hand, injury may be caused by letting in too great a volume at any one time. When the day is warm, and the icy sting has been taken from the atmosphere outside, the warm air can be admitted freely. But we must begin by admitting small quantities ; just a mere crack, it may be, along the ridge early in the morning, and adding to it as the temperature rises. The man who attempts to save time by opening the ventilators wide at first will be sure to have trouble. Oood Lilie-s for Amateurs.— &ui3,\\ gardens as a rule, do not devote much space to the culture of Liliums, yet they are among the most beautiful flowering plants, and many of them may be grown most successfully in the small and even in the town garden. Lilium croceum (the Orange Lily), and Lilium umbellatum are two of the easiest to grow ; they need only to be planted in ordinary garden soil, putting plenty of sand round about them, and leave them undisturbed. Lilium Hansoni, the early - flowering yellow, brown spotted Lily, is easily grown, and so, too, are L. pyrenaioum, L. speciosum Melpomene, L. tigrinum and its varieties, and L. Martagon. These need no special care or treatment, and will thrive in ordinary soil if plenty of sand is mixed with it. Others which are well worth including, though perhaps not quite so easily grown, are L. pomponium, L. chalcedonicum (scarlet), L. pardalinum, L. szovitzianum, L. longifiorum, and L. elegans. Some Valuable Easily-grown Annuals. — Those with small gardens might easily have them very gay with annuals. There is no excuse for bare spaces in the border now that seeds of beautiful annual flowers may be purchased so cheaply, and nothing looks worse than the bare soil showing between the plants ; it detracts greatly from the effect of the border. It is most important U give each seedling plenty of room. Far more and finer flowers will be produced by a few plants well grown than by many badly developed. One of the showiest annuals is the Rose Mallow, and big patches of it make a delightful display. The rich pink flowers are produced in profusion if the plants are give plenty of room and a fairly good soil. I have seen masses of it in a garden in August that were the admiration of all who saw them ; it grows 3 feet to i feet high. The red Flax (Linum grandiflorum rubrum) is another annual that everyone ought to grow, for it is of the easiest culture. The rich red flowers are produced on slender stems 15 inches to IS inches high, and in the month of July make a blaze of colour if sown in big drifts or patches. The seeds need to be sown fairly thickly together, for the plants are so slender that if they are too far apart they fall down and have an untidy appearance. When they are close together they hold each other up, and the flowers are displayed to the best advantage. I think everyone should grow some Virginian Stock, for a gorgeous effect can be produced very quickly if the best varieties in distinct colours are sown. Japanese Antmo7ies. — If you want to have a good display of white flowers in September you cannot do better than plant some roots of the Japanese Anemone. They will flower profusely next autumn, even if planted now. It quickly becomes established, and few plants give more satisfaction. This Anemone may be had in several varieties now, both pink and white and semi-double. A charming combination may be had by planting Tiger Lily bulbs between the Anemone roots, as they produce their flowers at the same time. April 15, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 226 GARDENING OF THEi WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. DAHLIAS.— The propagating of these should now be brought to a close, the stock roots divided, and the struck cuttings potted and kept in a moist close heat until well rooted, when they can be slowly hardened off in readi- ness for planting out at the end of May. The Cactus varieties will, no doubt, form a good portion of the stock, for most of them are very beautiful, and all light and graceful ; but it must be admitted that the serious defect of the parent (Juarezi) is reproduced in many of the progeny, viz., Uie marked tendency of the foliage to smother and thus hide the flowers. Great care must be exercised in selecting varieties for garden decoration that throw up their blooms well above the leaves without much disbudding. Personally, I like the whole class of Cactus Dahlias, and grow them largely ; still I grow many of those styled nowadays decorative Dahlias, for they really pro- duce a much brighter effect in the garden than the pointed-petalled varieties, and there is ample variety in height and colour, and all are extremely free bloomers. I enumerate a lew typical sorts, all old : Mrs. Hawkins, Aonie Harvey, Asia, Constance, Satan (a seedling raised here, the counterpart of Constance in every respect excepting colour, which is very dark, similar to Matchless, and, by the way, raised the same year as that grand variety), Glare of the Garden, Crawley Gem, General Gordon, Salisbury White, Baron Schroder, Cannell's Favourite, Claribel, Grand Due Alexis, Rev. Lovelace, Miss Webster, and Dawn, to which may be added, although probably still retained in the Cactus section, Gloriosa, Lady Henry Grosvenor, Blanche Keith, and Mayor Haskins, and you have a score that will make a bold show, and, in addition, prove useful in supplying cut flowers for church and other decorations. Next in merit for garden em- bellishment come the Pompons, and singles are useful for filling up open spaces in shrubberies. Shows and fancies are, I think, somewhat outside the flower garden proper, and should be relegated to the kitchen garden to be pampered, fed, and prepared for adorning the exhibition table, for which purpose they seem specially adapted. Pot on all cuttings of Bedding Plants as fast as they become rooted, keeping them in the same temperature until they commence to take possession of the fresh soil, when they can be removed to somewhat cooler quarters, and gradually hardened off. Prick out all seedlings before they become drawn and weak. Hardy annuals of many kinds may now be sown ; sow some thinly broadcast among shrubs and strong-growing perennials. Violas must be planted without delay, and so must Carnations. I presume that a rich border has been previously prepared for the former. If not, it must be done forthwith, for they will surely collapse during the heat and drought of summer unless planted in well- enriched holding soil. Cuttings of Choice Shrubs inserted in the autumn of 1903 should by now be well rooted, and must be put out in nursery lines, and so should seedlings of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, &c. Leaf-mould and sand being a suitable rooting medium, a little should be placed in the drills to start and encourage the tender rootlets. Maintain clean- liness and neatness throughout. John Roberts. The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlch^ North Wales. ORCHIDS. Temperatures and Shading.— The night temperatures in each division may now he advanced. The East Indian house should be about 67*^ ; the Cattleya and Mexican divisions should not fall below 60°, and the intermediate house temperature a few degrees below that of the Cattleya house ; the cool house must be kept up to 50* ; and, if the weather be mild, a few degrees higher in each department will do no harm, the day temperatures, of course, being advanced in a corresponding rate, allowinc; several degrees more by fire-heat, or by sun-heat 10° to 15*^ will be bene- ficial. With continued mild weather very liitle flre-heat will be necessary in the Odontoglossum or Masdevallia houses, but the pipes should be made just lukewarm when the temperature is likely to fall below 50°. Ventilate these cool houses freely whenever the outside air is rising above 50°. The bottom ventilators of the Cattleya, Mexi- can, and intermediate houses should be wide open when the temperature outside is 55°. The East Indian house will require little ventilation at present, but during the middle hours of the day— say, from eleven till three o'clock — when the outer air is warm and still, a little air may be put on through the top ventilators. The blinds on this house should be lowered immediately the sun has sufficient power to raise the temperature 8° or 10°. The sime remarks are applicable to the intermediate house. The Cattleya and Mexican houses will not require shading quite so soon, but when the sunshine is bright and there is danger of the leaves being scorched the plants should be shaded. I may add that on none of these houses, which have been whitened over, as recommended in a former calendar, although on some days the sun has been power- ful, has it been necessary to use the blinds. The shadings on the cool houses should be let down imme- diately the sun on bright mornings has raised the temperature to 55° or 60°, and they should be kept down so long as it shines upon the roof. In The East Indian House, where a great number of different species are cultivated, it is a difficult matter to provide suitable positions of light and shade for thera. Renanthera coccinea, R. Storeyii, Vanda Miss Joaquim, and V. hookeriana will only thrive where they can obtain plenty of bright light, while such species as Cypripediums, Cirrhopetalums, Bulbophylluras, Phalajuopsids, Angra;- cums, and Aerides prefer plenty of shade. Others, as the deciduous Dendrobiums, Cyrtopodiums, Mormodes, Catase- tums, Grammatophyllums,Schoraburgkias,and the terete- leaved Vandas revel in early morning and evening sun- shine. All the houses should now be damped down morning and evening, but in some gardens where wide and lofty structures exist it may be found necessary to damp them more frequently. The description of the house in which the plants are grown should always be taken into consideration in calculating how often the house should be damped and the amount of water used at each damping. The Odontoglossum and Masdevallia Houses should be kept fairly moist at all times, but it is good practice to allow the atmosphere of the other divisions to become comparatively dry for a few hours in the middle of the day. This will assist the plants to throw off any excess of moisture, which, if retained, might cause decay. Now that many of the Odontoglossums, as 0. criapum and its many distinct varieties, 0. Hallii, O. Pescatorei, 0. seep- trum, O. luteo-purpureum, 0. hystrix, and numerous others are finishing up their new pseudo-bulbs and sending up strong flower-spikes they will require copious waterings at the root, and the majority of them will take a good watering every four or five days, but large specimens that have a considerable mass of compost to root in will not require water so frequently. Those that are well rooted in small pots may want water oftener. Imported Odonto- glossums should be watered just often enough to keep the material they may be potted in moist, but when they commence to grow and make new roots give more water. Burf&rd Gardens, Dorking. W. H. WniTE. INDOOR GARDEN. Salvias.— For conservatory and greenhouse decoration during winter these plants are not used as much as they deserve. By growing half a dozen or so suitable species and varieties a succession can be kept up for six or eight months. By rooting the varieties of Salvia splendens early, they can be had in flower in August. Insert several batches for succession. S. farinacea, vio!et-blue, and S. involucrata var. Bethelli, of a rosy pink shade, flower about the same time. S. azurea grandiflora (syn. S. Pitcheri) follows these. The azure blue colour is shown to perfection among white Chrysanthemums. The plants should not be pinched too much, as a few well-ripened shoots produce much better flowers than a quantity of weakly growth. S. leucantha, lavender and white ; S. rutilans, the Pine-apple-acented Sage, has scarlet flowers, and is very effective during the dull winter months. S, Heerii is one of the best for flowering in early spring. Cuttings of all the above may be inserted any time during this month. They root freely in a propagating frame with bottom heat ; failing this place in a hand-light or bell- glass. Much better results are usually obtained if the plants are grown outside for a time in summer. The majority can also be grown from seed. I prefer growing from cuttings, as seedlings vary somewhat. By rooting cuttings from the larger and freer flowering plants a good strain is assured. HiPPBASTRUM (Amaryllis).- Attend carefully to the Hippeastrums as they pass out of flower. Better results are obtained by growing them plunged to the rim of the pot in beds of tan or cocoanut fibre during the growing season. Tie the foliage carefully to a stake. Syringe frequently to keep down insects. Stir the surface of the soil if the seedlings are planted out in a bed. If kept growing they will flower in two and a-half or three years. After flowering, Lachenalias must not be neglected. Pick off the flower-spikes, place in a light position, and give manure water occasionally. The appearance of the greenhouse and conservatory can often be much improved by growing Selaginella kraussiana round the edges of the beds and stages. Underneath the stage, if not too dark, it will also grow freely. Insert cuttings where they are to remain, using a light sandy soil. Many of the seedling Cyclamens will by this time be ready for Scinch pots. Assist the show and Regal Pelargoniums showing buds with manure water. Pinch out the points of the recently potted zonals for autumn and winter flowering. Keep in a temperature of about 50° for a time. Sow seeds of Primula verticiliata and P. floribunda, Celsia arcturus and C. cretica. Campanula pyramidalis, and Francoas. A little pruning will be necessary as the plants of Cytisus pass out of flower. Pot on the younger plants when the new growths are half an inch or so in length, using a compost principally composed of fibrous loam. Repotting once in two or three years, or even less, will be sufficient for the laiger specimens. Rcijal Botanic Gaidem, Kew. A. Oseorn. FRUIT GARDEN. Late Muscat Vines.— Before the Vines come into flower it must be seen that the borders are moist, so that no water will be required till after the bunches are well set. Delay cutting off the surplus bunches till it can be. seen which have set best. A compact, medium-sized bunch is much to be preferred to a large straggling one, which will never become perfect. I believe setting is greatly facilitated if the shoots are allowed to remain above the wires till flowering is over. Any shoots requiring to be stopped should be done so before flowering commences, so that there will be no check while setting is in progress. Pollinate the bunches at midday by lightly passing a rabbit's tail over them. This must be done with great care, or more harm than good will result. If any ditflculty has been hitherto experienced in setting through unfavour- able local conditions, the pollen of some free-setting variety (Hamburgh for preference) may be used with favour- able results. When the berries commence swelling thin- ning must be attended to. This must be done with care and judgment. Rusting of the berries is often caused through the worker neglecting to keep his scissors con- stantly wiped. Take care not to thin the shoulders too much. This is a mistake the inexperienced hand is sure to make if he is not warned. If the shape of the bunches is loose, the shoulders may with advantage be looped up with a neat piece of rafila. When thinning is finished the borders of old-established Vines will greatly benefit by a top-dressing of rich farmyard manure, which should be well washed in with tepid water. The night temperature may vary between 65" and 70" according to the weather. Guard against sudden fluctuations when the Vines are in flower. This may have a prejudicial effect on a good "set." Cherries.— The weather up to date has been very favourable to the forcing of Cherries in pot?. Very little fire- heat has been re(iuired, so that if the trees have been otherwise well treated a good set of fruit will have been secured. A top-dressing of some rich material should be given to established trees, and plenty of stimulants in the way of liquid manure and Le Fruitier may be given alternately when watering. Make liberal use of the syringe morning and afternoon, and keep the house moist. Syringe occasionally with a solution of soft soapy water to keep the Cherry fly down, and keep a look-out for the small grub which will be found curled up in the leaves. It will now be safe to increase the temperature if it is desired to hasten the fruit to ripen. This may be done by closing early in the afternoon after syringing. When the fruits are colouring syringing must be discontinued, and the house kept cooler and drier, or the fruits will crack. Early Tomatoes. — To obtain ripe fruits as early as possible, the earliest batch of plants should be stopped when three or four bunches have set, and placed in more heat. Top-dress them with a mixture of loam and horse manure in equal parts, and give plenty of stimulants when watering. Pot on later batches before they become pot- bound. A good compost for the final potting consists of two parts loam, one part well-fermented horse manure, and a good sprinklingof old mortar rubble and wood ashes. Admit plenty of air in favourable weather during the day, and leave the top ventilators open a little at night. A gentle tapping of the trellis will be sufticient to pollinate the flowers now that the weather is more favourable. E. HARRISS. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. KITCHEN GARDEN. Beetroot.— The general crop of this much-esteemed root may now be sown with safety. Earlier sowings are apt to run to seed if the plants are checked by cold when in a young state. Beetroot requires a fairly rich soil, but the richness ought to result from former manurings, as in the case of Potatoes. Where fresh manure is applied it tends to produce coarse and forked roots of inferior quality. More desirable are shapely, close-grained juicy roots, about 10 inches or 12 inches long, of a dark crimson colour and sweet flavour. The ground should be deeply dug and well broken up to obtain satisfactory results. Sow the seed in drills 12 inches apart, and moderately thin. If the ground be dry, tread the whole slightly. Pine-apple is a fine old variety, close in texture, colour good, and flavour excellent. Dell's Dark Red I can also recommend, having grown it for a number of years. It is dwarf, rich in colour, both of foliage and root, possessing a pleasing flavour. Sutton's Blood Red is another highly-esteemed Beet, its palatable roots answering well for early autumn salads, &c. Turnips. ^A good sowing of Turnips should now be put in. Owing to sudden changes of temperature those sown at earlier dates may not have come to much. Choose a piece of ground not too rich on a border, if such can be spared, for this sowing. Stir up the surface of the soil with a digging foik early in the day, and sow the seed in the afternoon. Draw out the drills 15 inches apart, and nearly 1 inch deep. Sow the seed thinner than for former sowings. Cover with soil, making it firm with the feet ; then go over the surface very lightly with a rake, working it parallel with the drills. Snowball and White Milan are varieties which mature early ; both are shapely and faultless in flavour. Where yellow-fleshed Turnips are preferred, Orange Jelly will recommend itself, possessing a rich colour, and sweet, mild flavour. French Beans.— In favoured localities these may now be sown on an open border, but in cold or exposed gardens prudent cultivators will defer the sowing seeds of this tender vegetable for ten or twelve days. For those in backward districts earlier supplies may be obtained if seed be sown in small pots or boxes, to be grown in frames and planted out after the dangers arising from late frosts are over. This method I have practised successfully in various gardens where climatic conditions were unfavourable. Excellent varieties are Sutton's Ne Plus Ultra and Canadian Wonder. Cadliflower and Broccoll— Fursucces ional supplies seeds of both must be sown at this date. Choose a piece of free, open ground, and sow very thinly, so that when the young plants appear there may be space between them for the free circulation of light and air. Under these con- ditions the plants will attain a sturdy habit, and when lifted from the seed-bed their roots will also cairy along with them a good deal of soil, which will greatly benefit them in their permanent quarters. Veitch's Autumn Giant is an excellent variety. J. Jeffrey. The Gardeiis, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. 226 THE GARDEN. [April 15, 1906 STOVE &. GREENHOUSE. : ERIOSTEMONS. A USTRALIAN hard-wooded plants are /\ not cultivated nearly as much as / \ they deserve. Amongst the twenty- / % five or thirty species of Erioatemons, / % comparatively few are met with under cultivation. E. myoporoides is the best known The flowers are axillary, three to five in a bunch, shorter than the leaves, and pinkish white on opening, changing to pure white. The specimen illustrated has been flowering freely for nearly three months in No. 4 greenhouse, Kew. In Australia the flowering period is said to be October. It is planted out in a bed of peat and sand, is 5 feet in height, and nearly as much through. In nurseries it is usually met with under the name of E. cuspi- datus. E. intermedius and E. neriifolius are usually considered to be forms of it. E. buxi- folius, as the name implies, has leaves resembling the Box. The star-like flowers are pinkish white. It is not so vigorous as the last-named. E. pulchellus is also pinkish white. A very pretty garden hybrid. Others worthy of culti- vation are E. affinis and E. scaber. E. lineari- folius is a densely-branched plant, with somewhat star-shaped white flowers. At Kew it is now known as Geijera parviflora. In a cool green- house they all last a long time in flower. If required in flower earlier they readily respond to a little heat. Propagation is done by cuttings in spring, or for the weaker ones grafting on the stronger or correa alba. The majority are not so particular about compost as most New Holland plants. A mixture of peat and fibrous loam, or the latter and leaf-mould, with plenty of sharp sand, will suit them. Little pruning is necessary beyond shaping the plants after flowering. All flower in a small state. A. Osborn. glass should be gradually removed and the freshly- struck cuttings inured to the ordinary atmosphere of the greenhouse. In potting ofl' the cuttings into small pots these last should be clean and well drained. Good peat, with a liberal admixture of silver sand, forms a suitable compost, but as the plants get larger a little loam may be mixed with the potting soil. A USEFUL SPRING-FLOWERING GREENHOUSE PL4^T ERIOSTEMON MYOPOROIDES. This is a native of Australia, and an exceedingly pretty flowering greenhouse shrub. It belongs to what are popularly termed hard-wooded plants, which include the Heaths, Epacris, and such things, and, like them, cuttings do not strike very readily. The best time of the year to take the cuttings is in April or May, the young growing shoots being selected for the purpose. They should be taken off with a sharp knife just below a joint, and when the bottom leaves are cut off cleanly they are ready for insertion. A length of about 2^ inches is very suitable for the cuttings, which should be selected from good sturdy shoots of medium vigour, the very strong and also the very weak ones being rejected. As it will be necessary to cover the cuttings with a bell-glass, the pots or pans prepared for their reception should be of a size to fit the bell-glass or glasses that are available. The pots must be quite clean, and drained with broken crocks to within "2 inches of the rim, the top layer being small to prevent any of the soil passing through. Peat sifted through a quarter of an inch mesh and silver sand in equal proportions form a suit- able compost. It must be pressed down very firmly, and in inserting the cuttings take care that the schI is pressed quite close around them. When a pot is filled with cuttings give a good watering through a fine rose to settle everything in its place, and, after being allowed half an hour or so to drain, cover with a bell - glass, and place if possible in a structure just a little warmer than the greenhouse in which the plants have grown. If this is not avail- able stand them in the warmest part of the greenhouse, as far as possible away from direct draughts, and, of course, they must be kept well shaded. The principal attention needed will be to water when required and the occasional re- moval of the bell- glass to wipe off any condensed moisture or to pick off the least signs of decay. As a rule they will root in about a couple of months, and when this takes place, which may be known by the shoots commencing (ERIOSTEMON MYOPOROIDES). to grow, the bell- ORCHIDS. ORCHID GROWING FOR BEGINNERS. {Continued from page 161.) STAGING. — In a house the size named there will be no central stage, and for a small grower I do not think houses with central stages are advisable. If the house is 11 feet wide, the two stages will be 4 feet wide, a very convenient width. It is difficult to handle plants at the back when the stages are wider. The lower or dummy stage should be 2 feet 8 inches high from the floor level, and be made of '2-inch stout angle iron back and front. The back may be fastened into the wall, and the front may either rest on iron columns or 9-inch brick piers. If slates are used for a bed, rest them upon pieces of 1-inch stout flat iron. Corrugated iron makes a very good substitute for slates, and would come cheaper. This must also be freely supported with pieces of flat iron, say, every 12 inches, otherwise the weight of the plants will cause it to buckle. Presuming the question of the lower stage is settled, the next item is that of material for covering it. Nothing is better than small broken coke from which the dust has been taken ; a very convenient size is that which will pass through a 1-inch sieve. Place it to the depth of the angle iron which ia carrying the stage. Now comes the important detail of staging for the plants to rest upon. Many use inverted pots simply placed on wh.it I have termed the dummy stage. They answer fairly well, but a much better method, and one that is beneficial to the plants, is to have loose slabs, l\ inches square, of pitch pine built up to the desired width and height with loose bricks. Nothing is then nailed together. The form and height of the staging can be altered at will to meet the various needs of the plants. It is well not to have the brick bearers too far apart ; 4 feet to .5 feet should be the limit. I would advise keeping the staging 6 inches from the front to allow for a row of small Ferns. They relieve the general appearance, and act as a protection to ihe more valuable plants. Suspending Orchids. — Many Orchids prefer being suspended, so provision must be made for them. It is well to remember that in a fairly full house the cost of culture per plantis less than inone half full. The place for suspended Orchids should be over the sides of the path, the first or lower row being fixed so that the drip when they are watered just misses the Orchids on the stage ; the second one should be 9 inches higher up the roof. Use half-inch round iron, and fasten it by clips screwed into the rafters. When this is used there is no fear of sagging, such as always occurs when wire ia used. The Orchids can then be hung all at one level. When they are suspended at various levels the house never looks its best. Shading. — It is necessary to provide all the houses with movable blinds. For general purposes I prefer the wood or lath blinds ; I hey are more expensive at first, but their durability well repays the extra cost. We find them extremely helpful in maintaining the proper tem- peratures during cold nights without using so much fire-heat ; they make 5" difference to the house, so that is a great consideration. The blinds should be raised about 7 inches from the glass, and carried on wood or iron runners specially fixed for that purpose ; then the air can freely pass between the blinds and the glass, and April 15, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 227 will be of material benefit to the plants, espe- cially during very hot weather. The upright glass lantern ventilator may be shaded with milk and flour when the sun gets too strong, and I have never seen any harm accrue from this way of shading, providing movable blinds are pro- vided for the major part of the roof. Some Orchids will do very well during the height of summer with a permanent shading, but it is during the early spring and autumn that per- manent shading is so harmful. When that medium is used the grower has either to admit full sun or have no sun at all. W. P. Bound. Oatton Park Gardens, Reigate. (To be continued.) TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— TAe Editor intende to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object vnll make a special feature of the "ATimvers to CorrespoTidents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely ^oritien on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Legral Points,— We are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and .forestry. The questions should he as clear and explicit as possible, so that there can be no doubt as to the point of the question. Answers u^ll be found in a teparate column headed ^^ Legal Points." Perennials and Slugs {R. M. S.). — It is unfortunate that you cannot adopt the most efficient means of ridding your garden of slugs by looking for them with a lantern late in the evening. It is just then that they are out preying on plants, and can be caught in large numbers. Still further if after the largest have been collected the plants be freely dusted with fresh-slaked lime or soot, smaller ones are killed wholesale, and the dressings do no sort of barm whatever to the plants. Dustings of lime or soot in a damp air or on damp ground soon lose their caustic properties and do the slugs no harm. Even salt, always a dangerous element to use, soon dissolves. We know nothing what- ever of the " sheep dip " to which you refer, but whilst doubtless poisonous and very destructive to slugs, it has most likely little effect on them unless strewn over the plants at night when the pests are feeding. Hellebore powder would be as efficacious just then, as that is poisonous and soon kills all that feed upon it. Grass Dying in Winter {Lady B.). — It is unusual for grass in an open space to die every winter under ordinary conditions. Local con- ditions may account for the failure. If you cannot get expert opinion we advise that to the dressing which is annually given (and which we presume to be new and sweet soil and fairly rich) should be added 401b. of the best lawn manure to each cartload of soil. This can be had ready prepared from any of our best seedsmen. A barrowload of recently-slaked lime and the same of gritty sand should also be added to the load of soil, and the whole well mixed together. Now is an excellent time to apply this dressing to the land ; it should be applied at the rate of from five to six cartloads to the acre. After this dressing has been spread evenly over the ground lawn grass seeds should be sown thickly over this dressing and well worked into it with a rake or harrow, afterwards rolling the land several times over with a moderately heavy roller drawn by men in preference to horses. If there is little or no grass on the land IJ bushels of the best lawn seed should be sown per acre. Dry, calm weather should be selected to carry out the work, as many of the seeds are light and minute and easily blown about. Where sparrows or other birds are numerous they should be scared away until the seeds have started well into growth (which they will do in a short time at this season of the year), or they will soon clear many of the best seeds. After the grass has grown about 1 inch high it should again be rolled (by a lighter roller this time) in order to fasten and consolidate the soil to the roots of the young grass. Mowing should not take place until the grass has attained the height of 8 inches or 10 inches, and on this (first) occasion must be cut with the scythe, and not too close. The next time and onwards it may be cut with the lawn-mower, but not too close for the first two or three months for fear of injuring the crowns of the young grasses. By the end of May, with attention to rolling in showery weather and mowing about every ten days, there should be a thick and beautiful sward of grass, which under ordinary conditions and careful management should go on improving in quality as time goes on, especially if annual light dressings of rich soil are given to it in winter or spring. Strawberries Diseased (F. B. Coventry). — We have no recollection of having seen pot Strawberry plants in such a damaged condition before. The centre of the plants is completely rotten, as if scalded with hot water, and what leaves there are are also badly damaged. One would conclude that the cause of the injury was accidentally subjecting the plants to too high bottom-heat in the plunging material, thereby destroying the roots (we cannot find any live ones), or the giving of too heavy a dose at one time of some highly concentrated artificial manure when watering. This is respansible we know for no end of trouble in this way. The foliage gives one the impression that at one time they had sufl^ered from an attack of mildew, but this would not account for the deplorable condition the plants are evidently in. Vegetables for Exhibition (Vegetarian). — We wish you had stated the date in July on which you proposed to exhibit vegetables in com- petition, as between the first and the last weeks at that season a great advance is usually made in growth, but if you can secure them, six fine kinds, when well represented, are; Cauliflowers, very white, solid, and about 6 inches in diameter; Peas, such as Duke of Albany, Edwin Beckett, or other full- podded variety ; Tomatoes, the fruit handsome, round, smooth, rich in colour, and of medium size ; Potatoes, such as Sir John Llewelyn or Snowdrop. Model, Perfection, Nantes, or Slump-rooted (all very similar) of early Carrots, and either autumn-sown Giant Rocca or Globe Tripoli Onionp, a pair of medium-sized handsome Vegetable Marrows or Cucumbers, or Globe Red Beets, or a good dish of Canadian Wonder Dwarf Kidney Beans. It is just then rather early for good Runners, always a strong dish. In any case, we have given you the best. Amaryllis Belladonna (Amaryllis). — In order to grow Amaryllis Belladonna well in pots they need liberal treatment. Pot them in two parts good yellow loam to one part dried cow manure, and a sprinkling of rough silver sand. In commencing their culture, at midsummer, when dormant, they must be placed in a sunny spot and watered sparingly. Should they need repotting, the best time is immediately the flowers are over and before the new leaves push up. Then they may be wintered in a frame, taking care to give plenty of air whenever pos- sible, and, if they have not been repotted, a little weak manure water occasionally. They will make sturdy growth, and if the bulbs are suffi- ciently strong they can reasonably be expected to flower the following season. They will be much better in your frame than in a silting-room window, though in summer they may be stood out of doors. In planting out of doors the border should be taken out to a depth of at least 2 feet, a layer of brick rubble for drainage placed in the bottom, and made up with good soil. The bulbs should be planted about 6 inches deep. This Amaryllis flowers, as a rule, in a far more satisfactory manner when planted in a narrow border close to a hot-house. A good bulb is nearly as large as a cricket ball, and such can be reasonably expected to flower well, but, on the other hand, much smaller ones are sometimes equally satisfactory. Your bulbs are undoubtedly too small to flower. The colour of the bulb is nothing to go by, as when first lifted it is almost white, but quickly darkens with exposure. With such small bulbs as yours we should certainly not trouble to grow them in pots, but plant them out in the warmest and sunniest spot you have. Good bulbs that may reasonably be expected to flower well may be obtained at a cheap rate when dormant. Sweet Pea Seeds (H. C. Lee). — If the sewerage is well covered, as you say, the plants will derive benefit from it when they are growing freely. You need not have sown the seeds more than an inch deep, but it would not be advisable to dis- turb them now. The top-dressing of manure is not at all necessary now ; you should remove it, as it may prevent the seedlings coming through satisfactorily. They like a fine soil above. The best time to apply the top-dressing of manure is when the plants are growing freely and just beginning to flower. It then gives them just the support they require, whereas when the plants are quite young they do not need it. Seedling Amaryllis (Amaryllis). — These will do fairly well under the conditions you name, the principal drawback being the want of a moist, warm atmosphere during the spring months — that is immediately after the flowers are over — for it is then that the vigour of the bulb is built up to enable it to flower another season. Failing a glass structure a sunny window is a very good place for the plants, which, while growing freely, should be liberally watered, occasionally giving a weak mixture of soot and manure water. Under such conditions they should produce good clean leaves, firm in texture, which as the summer advances will begin to turn yellow, when the water supply must be lessened and finally dis- continued altogether. If exceedingly dry they may be watered two or three times in the course of the winter. If the bulbs are wintered in your bay window, it is very necessary to see that they are quite safe from frost, and in order to avoid any risks they must not, however dry the soil, be watered during frosty weather. Potted in good loam, leaf-mould, and sand, these Amaryllids will stand for two or three years without being dis- turbed at the roots. Lichen on Lawn (J. K. Thomai). — Lichen or moss on lawns usually indicates that the grass needs nourishment, or it may happen that the soil needs to be drained. If your soil is a heavy one the latter may be the case, but if it is light and sandy the grass is more likely to be in need of nourishment. As you do not want to interfere with the surface of the lawn, draining is out of the question, for that would mean cutting it up. First give the lawn a good raking ; this both stimulates the growth of the grass and will help to remove the moss. Afterwards apply a top- dressing to the lawn of rich soil ; this should be prepared beforehand, and lime should be mixed with it at the rate of one load of lime to four of soil. It would be advisable to add some specially prepared lawn manure, which may be had from any good seedsman. In applying this the directions as to quantity supplied with the manure must be followed. You would further improve the soil by sowing seeds in about three weeks after applying the above. These will fill up the lawn and prevent the growth of the moss. 228 THE GARDEN. [April 15, 1905. Kalmia latifolia (L. J.)-— Ufually treateil in the same manner as Rhododendrons and sueli- like plants in the matter of Boil, it certainly does better under those conditions than when planted in loim, which cintains lime in excess. It is a mistake, however, to think that all ericaceous plants hate lime, several plants like Rhodothamnus Chamsecistus prefer it. Gelsemium skmpervieens (L. J.). — This is a half-hardy evergreen twining plant from the Southern United States. It succeeds well in a cool greenhouse potted in rich loam, producing its fragrant, rich yellow (lowers in spring. After it has flowered and made its growth, it may be stood outside during the summer months, housing again before the frosts commence. Lime in small proportions will not affect it. Forced Lilacs [Name Lost). — Lilacs do not answer very well for forcing two years in succes- sion, so that you ought to have two batches of them, allowing one hatch to remain out of doors every alternate season while the other is being forced. When flowering is over you may cut back the growths to within 2 inches of where they started the previous year. It is a good p^an to plant them out in a border after flowering, then repot them when next required for forcing. You cannot expect the same plants to give gooii results when forced without alternate seasons of rest. Tulips Fatlisg {i?ey. C. J. Horam). — The bulbs are badly attacked with the Tulip mould. This is always more or less present at the lime of planting, but it is not always possible to detect it, and on contact with the soil the development is very rapid. We regret to say Ihit at present there appears to be no way of remedying the evil, and you have taken more than ordinary precautions to ensure success. From enquiries already received, this season there would appear to be a large numb3r of bulbs similarly affected. In your case the disease has permeated to the very core of the bulb. Woodlice ((?. Roberts). — It is difficult to exterminate these pests as llieir skins arc so hard and impervious to any insecticide, and as they only feed at night one cannot easily catch them. If, as is often the case, they congregate at the bottom of the wall in cracks in the eaith, they may be killed wholesale by pouring bailing water along the wall where it touches the soil. Walls on which fruit trees are grown should be kept well pointed, so that there may be no cracks or holes in which the woi dlice can hide. Small bundles of dry moss placed near the fruit provide places for them to hide in, where they may be easily found. Brick", tiles, slates, and boards laid on the ground and left undisturbed for a few days make excellent traps. Woodlice do not like moisture and tidiness, so leave no rubbish about. Toads are their enemies and kill numbers of them. Marguekite Carxations (./. O.) — Seed of the Marguerite Carnation should be sown early in March in a gentle heat, the seedlings pricked off when sufficiently large to handle, and finally potted singly into small pots, a suitable compost for them in this stage being two parts loam to one part leaf-mould and a sprinkling of sand. Then in May plant them out in well-worked, fairly enriched ground ; under these conditions they will by the end of the summer have grown into good plants. They maj' be then lifted and potted, needing pots from 5 inches to 7 inches in diameter according to their vigour. In a gentle heat they will flower more or less throughout the winter. Where a warm greenhouse is at hand they can be potted up to the middle of September, or even later, but as you have only a frame, August will be late enough to do this. As you have no heat your best plan would be to sow the seed in July, wintering them in small pots in j-our frame, and planting them out as soon as it can be 8 ifely done, or, instead of planting them out, shift into pote 5 inches to 6 inches in diameter, and flower them in these. By this treatment they flower much earlier than when the seed is sown in the spring, md, of course, in July no artificial heat is necessary in raising the seed. Restoring Araucaria to Health {Miss E.). — The Araucaria Buffers more from drought than is generally supposed, and we should advise you, unless you are sure it is absolutely dead, to flood it with water once a month for the next three months. The best way to do this is to let a hose run gently on the ground beneath it for about twenty-four hours at a time, making a bank of soil to keep the water in if it is inclined to run away from the tree. In the place of it you could plant Douglas Fir, Abies albertiana, A. grandis or CupresBus lawsoniana, fast-growing evergreens, the first two of which we strongly recommend, or Abies nordmanniana, A. canadensis, Pinus austriaca, Finns strobus, or Pinua excelsa, slower- growing, but suitable evergreens for the position. Of deciduous trees, the Lime, Elm, Plane, Beech, and Horse Chestnut would be suitable. " Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens " (Newnes, Southampton Street, Strand, London) would suit you, price 12s. 61. Growing Anemone Alpina (L. J.). — This Anemone may be readily increased by means of seed, which should be obtained as fresh as possible. It is best to sow the seed at once after ripening, for preference in a moist but well-drained bed outside, in a compost of peat and loam with plenty of sand mixed with it. Peat, however, is not essential, and good fibrouj loam is just as well. Protect the bed from heavy rains, and shade the seedlings for a short time after they germinate. Allow the seedlings to remain in the seed-bed for two years, by which time they will have made nice plants. For their permanent position select an open place, full}' exposed, and deeply dig the soil, which may consist of good sandy loam. The best time to plant is in the spring, jast as the plants commence growing. Esrs, Sutton and Sons to visit their nurseries at Reading in .fuly next. The chairman congratulated the society on their success and the steady progress they were making, lie 3;iid they would be the largest gardeneis' society. With the election of an honorary and an ordinary member the roll was brought to 150.— 0. G. McLaren. April 15, 1905.] THE GARDEN, IX. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. TriE finest show of the season was held in the Ilorticul- tiualllall laat Tuesday. N.ircissi and other 9prin;-rlo\veiin;? plants and shrubs, both hardy and tender, were larj^ely exhibited. No fruit wa3 shown. Orchid Committer Present: Mr. J. Gurney Fowler (ehiiirnian), "^ressrs. James O'lirien, F. J. Thorne, W. A. lidney, R. Druoni ui ^Vhite, de B. Crawshay, Ni-rman C. Coksun, James Douglas, Francis Wellesley, Richard G. Thwaites, II. G. Morris, W. H. \Vhite, U. T. Pitt, A. A. ilcBean, J. Wilson Potter, O. F. Moore, W. B.-xiil, ^V. H. Y-mng, Walter Cobb, Henry Little, H. Billatuine, Ilu-ry J. Veitch, II. A. Xracey, J Charlesworth, and I''. W. Ashton. In the group of Orchids from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Beaton, Bradford, the apiicot-coloured Lrelio-Catileya Chailesworthi made a blight display among numerous racemes of Odontoglossum crispuni. Brasso-CatLleya Mossire digbyana, with large rose-coloured llower3, and the white, green-Lhtoated hybrid Queen Alexintlra were conspicuous. La9lio-Catt!eya wellsiana, with pile HI tc sepals and petals, rich purple lip, and yellow imoat, tlie lemon yellow L.-C. Jlercia, Cattieya E'iipres« l-'redeiick, rich rose with handsome purple gold-lined lip, luilvarioiii Dendrobiums and Odontoglossums helped to luAiQ a note- woithy exhibit. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Sander and Son?. St. Albans, exhibited a group of Orchids that contained many choice plants. Cattieya Schrodtrro var. ochracea, C. S. var. splendidissima, and C. S. alba were conspicuously displayed Miltoiiiableuana, Laitio-Caltleya bletchleyeniis (a hybrid between Lrelia tenebrosa and C. Waricewiczii), Phaim Phccba, Maxilliria aandeiiana, Dendrobium capillines (with rich yellow flowers with gulden lip), and some very ftne Odo ito- glossuras were also included. Awards of merit were given to several of the Utter, and also to Zygope'.alum discolor atrn-ca)rulea. Silver Flora medah Thegmupof Orchids from H. S. Goodson, Esq., AVest Hill, Putney (gardener, Mr. G. E. Day), comprised Cattieya Schrodeire in several varieties, Chysis bractescens, Phaius Norman, Oncidium concolor, Lycaste Skinneri, Cypri- pediums, and others. Silver Flora medal. Sir Trevor Lawrence, B.ut., Puiford, Dorking (gardener, Mr W. II. White), showed a small group that contained acme most interesting and beautiful Orchids. The most notable plant was Odontoglossura ramoaissimum Barford variety, which obtained a tirst-class certitii^ate and is described elsewhere. Oncidium concolor was finely flowered; so, too, was Ltelia harpophylla. Epirtendrum c'brienianum, E. erectum (bright purple), E. Ellisi', E. Schoraburgkii (apricot-red), Leptotes bicolor, Lrelio-Cat- tleya Myra superba, and Epi-Cattleya Gaskil-parkinsonia, with recurved pinkish sepals, cream white petals, and open, almost flat, lip, craam, with yellow in the centre, were other good plants included. Vote of thanks. Messrs Ilugh Low and Co., Enheld, exhibited a small RFOup of Orchids, among which were C-ittieya Li.wre- Mossiso, C. Mendelil, C Schiddeire perfecta, C. lawrence- ana, C. Triante, Odontoglossum crispum in variety, Den- drobium Falconeri giganteum, Cypripedium Olivia, C. lawrenceanum hyeanum, C. callosum, C. Prewetti, Oncidium barbatum, Angrsecum citratum, Trichopilia suavis, Epidendrum Endresio-Wallisii, Eria obesa, and others. Silver Banksian medal. DeBirriCrawshay, Esq., Rosefield, Sevenoaks ('gardener, Mr. W. J. Stables), exhibited OJontogUssum crispum crawshayanum and another hybrid OJontoglosaum. Cattieya guttata Prinzii Westfield vxi\, beautifully spotted with purple upon a blush ground and with a purple lip, was shown by F. Wellesley, Esq., Westfleld, Woking (gardener, Mr. Hopkins). New Orchies. Dendrobium fimbriatum oculatum Westonhtrt variety.— A fine variety of this handsome Dendrobium. The Hower i3 large, the petals are broad, the lip is beautifully flm- briated, with an intense black-brown blotch in the centre. Shown by Captain Holford, C.I.B., Westonbirt, Tetbury, Gloucester (Orchid grower, Mr. Alexander). Award of merit. Odontoglossum ramosissimum Burford variety.— X very beautiful form of an old species. The narrow petals and sepals are crimped, and thus have an uncommon and most attractive appearance. The flower is ivory white, spotted at the base of sepals and petals with purple. The upper half of the lip is also purple, thus the outer half of the Hower is white, and the inner half purple. The plant exhibited carried a splendid raceme of flowers. Shown by Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., Burford, Diking (Orchid grower, Mr. W. H. White). First-class certificate. Odontoglossum amo&nuin Sander's variety. — A shapely and attractive flower, the result of a cross between 0. Pescatorei and O. sceptrum. The sepals and petals have a cream ground colour. In the former this is marked with heavy bars of chocolate colour. The petals are less heavily marked. The lip is long and broad, primrose ytllow, with a bar of chocoHte colour across the centre. From .Uessis. Sander and Sous, St. Albaus. Award of meri'". Odontoglossum erispxun Briton's Qiteen.~X large and haiidsume variety of O. crispum. The petals have fringed margins, and are suffused with lilac and lightly blotched an>l spotted with light red. The sepaU are slightly fring'^d and similar, but more heavily blotched. Tne lip is ruber small. T'he raceme shown carried nine flue bloonii. From U. T. Pitt, Eiq., Soamford Hill, N. Award of nif r^^. Ejjklsndrum Boundfi.—A smill g"oup of this valuibU Orcnid WAS shown by Jeremiah C)lmui, B^i., G vtton Pirk, K.::i;5Ue(5u-dener, Mr. W. P. CjauJ). T.ii ij.vers, whicli are glowing apricot red, are produced on terminal heads upon long stems. They are produced througliout a 1 tug period, from October to Aliy, or even longer. The parents of this hybrid were E. radicans and E. Burtoiiii. Award of merit. Odontoglo.'isuui ivi:janianu}n. — This is a large and par- ticularly handsome tlower, the result of a cros^ between O. wilcKeanum and 0. Rjlferc, The ground colour is a rather dull deep yellow, and petals and sepals alike are blotched with chocolate colour. The lip is very large and broad ; it is primrose coloured at th-i base and paler above, slightly spotted with chccolate. From Sir Fredeiick Wigan.Bxrt., Clare Lawn, Eist Sheen (Orchid grower, Mr. W. U. Young). First-class cerliflcate. Zygopctalinn discolor atroccerulea.—ThU is quite a distinct Zygopetalum. The upp.n- sepil is pale primrose, and shows between the two broad p ile violet petals ; the remaining sepals recurve behind ihe (lower stem. The lip is large and widely open, a lich violet colour tliroughout fading to a lighter shade towards the edges. A white disc at the base of the throat adds to the beauty of the (lower. From Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans. Award of merit. Frttit and Vegetable Committee. The only exhibit before this committee was a large basketful of The Factor Potato, sent by Messrs. Dobbie and Co. to show its keeping qualities, which was given a silver Banksian medal. New Naroissi. The Narcissus committee made the following awards : Narci.ssus Kiwj's Xo> (o/i — From ilessrs. Pope and Sons, King's Norton, Birmingliam. First-class certiflcate. Lord Kitchener. — Fwm Mrs. Backhouse, Sutton Court, Hereford. Award of merit. Alice Knight.— From Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden. Award of merit. Floral Committee. Present: Mr. Marshall (chairman), Messrs. J. Green, W. B lin, R. Hooper Pearson, J. Jennings, J. F. McLeod, II. J, Cutbush, J. W. Birr, W, Howe, Charles Dixon, Charles Jeff.ies, R. C. Notcutt, Charles E. Pearson, William Cuth- bertson, Charles E. Shea, W. P. Thomson, E. H. Jenkins, W. J. Jimep, Elward Mawley, E. T. Cook, George Paul, R, W. Wallace, and Geoige Gordon. A large table filled with greenhouse and other plants by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, contained a lot of Corydalii Wilsoni, a lovely plant from Central China, having alternately disposed bluntish leaves of a most graceful character. Its freedom of flowering is very remaikable. Tillandaia Lindeni, a fine bit of blue, was very fine, and near by Crowea angustifolia, with pinkish llowers on graceful sprays, was also good. Cleru- dendron myrmecophihi, with a pyramidal inflorescence of orange flowers, is also a go )d and distinct plant. A great mass of Xantluijeras sorbifolia was most effective. Blue Hydrangeas, scarlet Anlhuriums, and Araygdalus persica fl. rosea plena was veiy good. Mr. George Mount, C aiterbury, staged cut Roses in boxes, such as Catherine Mermer, Ben Cant (crimson), Souvenir de President C^rnot, Lady Roberts, and Mrs. Elward Mawley were all good. Among long-stemmed flowers we noted Frau Ku-l Druschki, Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. Laing, Captain Hayward, and others, all of which were very fine. Me^sis. Wallace and Co., Colchester, set up early- flowering plants. Erythroniums, Trollius, Tulipa Greigi, Thalictrum anemonoide?, Arnebia echioides, Gentiana verna, Tulipa pulchella rosea (3 inches high, with rich carmine flowers), Iris bucharica, and others. Mr. A. F. Dutton, Iver, Back=, staged a flne lot of tree Carnations, in which a lovely lot of Enchantress were a feature. Mrs. Lawson and the brilliant Flamingo were also very flne. The fiowers were simply perfect. Messrs. Dobbie and Cj., Rjthesay, set up a beautiful lot of Pansies, both tufted and fancy kinds. In the former we noted Isolde, golden ; Shamrock, white ; Katie Cuthbert- son, rosy-mauve ; Primrose Darne, Duke of Argyll, very distinct, striped maroon ; Princess Ida, delicate mauve ; General B. Powell, a perfect flower, and others. A flne array of Anthuriums were sent from the gardens of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., Barford (gardener, Mr. Bain). There were many imposing soitsin the large group. All were forms of A. scherzerianum, and we take Parisiense, salmon; elegans, a chequered kind ; and buifordiense and Wardii, crimson, as among the best. From Messrs. B. S. Williamj and Son, HoUoway, N., came a large grouping of Azaleas, Lilac?, and other forced shrubs in quantity. The Lilacs were well grown and freely flowered. Mr. Richard Anker, Napier Road, Kensington, staged Myrtles in pots. Messrs. Low and Co., Enfield, staged a small lot of tree Carnations in varietv, in which Mrs. Lawson was a good feature. Floriana, E ichantress, and Giv. Rjjsevelt, with Malmaisons, were also exhibited in considerable numbers, together with the Myrtle-leaved Smilax. Messrs. W. and J. Bro^^n, Stamfoid, had a mixed exhibit of Roses, Verbena Miss Wilniott, Pelargonium Fire Dragon, Rvmbler R )3e Dorothy Perkins, and many plants of Dimorphotheca Eckloni^. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keiton, Kent, set up alpines in variety, in compmy with R'lododendrons, Camellia reticulata, Xircissi, &J. Alpine an I other Primulas, Hepaticas, AnJrosace carne.i, and Irti stylosa were all noteworthy. Anon.; the Nvrci3;i Glorii Mu.idi and Victoria, Bjauly, and Licifer were all good. A Urge collection of cit Cimelliis from the opan air wissh)wn fi-'un tU-e girden of .Sir b\ T. Birry, Bar', M.P., St. Leonards Hill, Windsor. There were sjme four duzej vases of the flowers, such as Chand'erii (crinisoii), an 1 its variety elegans were veiy flii«, A variety m u ked '■ s <■ [• ling, ' with single crimson llowers, i^ very sh )wy. Liv mi i Mjggi is striped. Alba plena, Tricolor Nova (striped single), and a single flowere 1 white seeiJling were aiujug the be^t of these old-time favourites. Mr. John R. B -x, Croydon, exhibited Begonia Gloire Je Sceaux and B. Gloire de Lorraine. A very flne exhibit of forced shrubs was shown by Messrs. R. and G. Cuthhert, South ijate. Everylliing staged was in excellent condition, and the exliibit a niJ3b extensive one. Genista andreana, Azalea mollis, Lilacs iu single and double forms, and Magnolia specios.i, a form with ivory-white petals internally, and suffused v iih purple externally, arranged amid Acers, were verytffec- tive. Messrs. J. Peed and Son, West Norwood, showed a large lot of alpines in pans. The collection was quite repre- sentative. The Cobweb Houseleeks were a very interesting lot of plants. Messrs. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, had a most eff'ective lot of Eiicas, Bjronias, and the like. TliJ new pink- flowered Rxmbler Rose Mrs. IT. W. Flight is a very dainty kind, free in flowering and pleasing in colour. Anemones in much variety of colour, ifec, were very good from Jlessrs. Gilbert and Son, Dike, Lincolnshire. King of Scarlets is a most dazzling colour, the crown tufb of petals giving it a distinct appearance. A. fulgens, A. Pulsatilla, and the St. Brigid Anemone were all well shown. A flne lot of Polyanthus came from Mr. S. Mortimer,. Farnham, showy in the mass, free-flowering, and in great variety of colour. Some very handsome blooms of Gardenia florida inter- media came from the E^rl of Clarendon, The Grove,. Watford (gudener, Mr. C. Harris). Roses ill pots from Messrs. William Paul and Son, Wallhani Cross, were very good. Etoile de France, H.T., coppery crimson, is very handsome, and highly fragrant;. Juliet, 1' , cream and rose; and Warrior, a long, tapering; bud of fine form, crimson in colour, is a capital thing for winter work, producing on long stems the prettily shaped flowers. Messrs. J. Jarman and Co., Chard, staged a few Cine- rarias, which were named "Cactus" vaiiety. They were- of the stellata type, with reflexed petals. Messrs. Jackman and Son, Woking, contributed a good lot of hardy things, alpines in variety, as Ramondias, Androsace pyrenaica, Saxifraga Rhei superba. Primula rosea, AubrietiaDr. Mules, and others. A large mass ot Djronicum was included. Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, staged a large and interesting lot of hardy thing,3, as Primula Sieboldi, Narcissus, Primulas, and coloured Primroses, with pans ol Aubrietias and other things in abundance. From Miss Willmott were sent the double white Hepaticft' and a large gathering of Narcissus Bulbocodium. Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton, filled a laige table with Ferna- and the beautiful foliage Begonias, Messrs. William Bull and Son?, Chelsea, exhibited a. group of Narcissus. Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, staged a really grand lot of their zonal Pelargoniums, also P. Purity and P. Vulonti Nationale alba. The zimals were as near perfec- tion as could be desired. The same firm had a small exhibit of cactaceous plants. A large group of Anthuriums was exhibited by H. L- Bischt.fl'ihetm, E q., Stanmore (gardener, Mr, C, J. Ellis),, the well-floweiei examples making a flne display. Silver Flora medal. The -Misses Hopkins, Mere, Cheshire, brought a small group of Primroses and other early flowers. Verbenas were shown by F. A. Bevan, Esq., New Barnefc^ while Sir A'fred Harmsworth, Bart., Guildford, sent a very handsome group of Cineraria stellata and Cyclamens. The former were of large size, fine bushes indeed, and profusely flowered. Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, on this occasion^ gave a rockwork exhibit of a most instructive and useful character. The arrangement displayed much skill, taste, and intelligence in the design and in the general furnish- ing. We have not space to refer in detail to the many things shown, and we state 'jroadly that almost every phase of a well-equipped rock garden was seen in this excellent exhibit. Colonies of alpine plants and many otherj were arranged with such still that only a close study and knowledge of the plants could render possible, A g )ld medal was deservedly awarded. Mr. Chailes Dawson, Penzance, again staged many choice Daffodils. Horace, Homespun, Pilgrim, Viking (a flne bicolor), Cavalier (rich cup), and Monarch (vtry hand- some), Barnardino (a very distinct cup of light orange and apricot), and Peveril (intense cup of rich orange), are a few of the best). Alias F. W. Curry, Lismore, Ireland, received a silver- gilt Flora medal for a very fine lot of Narcissi. Radiance, E'lid, White Qaeen, Atalanta (white Ajix), Maggie May, Gold Eye, Redcoat, and Flamingo are among those with somewhat descriptive or suggestive names. Select Narcissi were sent by Mrs, Backhouse, Suttott Court, Hereford. Messrs. Veitch and Son contributed a collection of Narcissi in the best kinds, most sections of the flower being well represented. A very nice lot of Narcissi came from Messrs. Pope and Sons, BirmiU'sham, a huge flower. King's Norton, attract- ing much attention. Torch, White Lady, Lady M. Bjscawen, C. J. Bickhouse, Santa Maria, and Pope'a Surprise (Ajax) being conspicuous. *** yut'ces of nejsr tl other ex'u'.'i its atii the new plants are ainooidj,'jly hdd ovsr until nsxt weeJc. THE GARDEN. (".Vi'UiL 15, 1905. LINNEAN SOCIETY. Mr. Uemsley Lectures on "The Nepenthes." At a meeting uf this society, on the Olli iiisl., ilr ^\'. Butting Ileinsley, F.I1..S., exhibUed a nuiiiher uf specimens and drawings uf pitchers uf Nepenthes, supplemented hy slides prep-'i'tJ by Mv. L. Farmei-, to ilhntrate the various types 01 pi;cliers and their niaivelluus ;^landular systems. Jlr. Uemsley began by saying that he did not pretend to show mucti tliat was new Lu science, though prob:ib]y new tu jiiunj of the Fdllows present. Tlieie are glands un almuit all parts of Pitcher Plants, from the stems to Iht flowers, and they vary very much in staicture, but there are only two classes, namely, attractive and digestive. The furmer are generaliy distiibuted ovti- the phuit, except the inside uf the pitclter, where alune Llie digestive glands occur. The pitcher is an appendage of Ihe leaf, borne on a prolongation of the midrib, whicli often acts .-is a tendril. It consists of a tubular or inllaled body, wuh two anterior iu.igitudinal ril>3, which often develop intu elegant fiinged wings, and one poileiior rib, whicli nsu.illy terminates in a spur, running out just below the hinge of the lid or operculum. The mouth of the jjitcher is sur- rounded by a more or less elaborately constructed collar or peristome. Mr. Ilems'ey first exhibited a new species, Nepenthes Macfailanei, which differs from all other known sjjecies, except N. Luwii, in the under side of the lid being thickly beset with stitf bristles, interspersed with large honey- glands. The function of the bristles in this position is nut obvious, but th-ir role would seem to be preventive tu flying insects, though ants might creep auiung them and drink the huiiey. The pitchers of N. Macfarlanei, as probably of all other species, are uf two kinds, apart fr.mi those on the young seedlings. In some, peihaps only the intermediate ones, the whole of t^-e inner suiface is covered with digestive glands, and the anterior ribs aie not winged ; in others, tlie upper part of the inner suiface is pel fee Jy smooth, forming wiiat is termed the conduc- tive zone to the glandular op retentive zone ; the anterior rib3 are developed into fiinged wings, and the collar has an upward elongation where the lid is attached. The honey-glands on the under side ()f the lip are very promi- nent, oval or circular in outline, surro.unded by a raised rim, and from onc-tifiieth of an inch to one-twelfth of an inch in diametei'. The digeslive glands are gradually smaller from the base upwards, and vary from about J,0[)0 to 5,00(' to the siiuare inch. Ttiese glands are many-celled, ovoid or spherical in shape, and, in consetiuence of the unequal growth of the tissue in which they are embedded, they are more oi' less overarched, the opening of the arch looking downwards. The surface is hard and polished, quite smooth to the finger moving in a downward direc- tion, and rough to the finger, ftom the sharp edges of the arches, moving in an upward direction. Other species were then compared with N. ilacfarlanei. N. L)wii has much larger, differently shaped pitchers, con- stricted in the middle, and has sunken ho.iey-glands on the lid as much as one-lifteenlh of an inch in diameter, with a very small pore opening. The digestive glands in the lower part of the pitcher are pentagonal tu heptagonal in shape, with a raised hard rim all round. The collar is the fiimpleat in the genus, but it has a prominent single series of perithecoid honey-glands near its inner margin. N. llajah, in a wild stale at least, has sometimes a tutal length of leaf and pitcher of between 0 feet and G feet, and a very elaborate collar, with a comb -like inner margin and solitary honey-glands, reached by a tunnel-like open- ing between the teeth. The largest pitchers of N. K>JLh have a capacity of two (juarts. In N. echinostoma the collar consists of several series of combs, directed inwards and downwards, with a bimilar honey-gland in each tooth. In all other species examined the glands are betweeen the teeth or spines. N. edwardsiana has a relatively narrow pitcher, sometimes as much as '1 feet long, and the collar has transverse thin rings that give it a very distinguished air. The conduct ivesui face in the upper pitcheisuccupies nearly three-quarters of the length of the pitcher. The digestive glands in the upper pait uf the retentive zone of this pitclier are veiy small, and number abuut IT), 000 to the square inch. Many utiier interestins comparisons weie made. Thus N. iiurthiana and N Veitchii have ■remarkable Ijroad, turn-duwn, plaited scolloped collars. N. bicalcarata ia reinaikable in having two very sliarp spurs springing from near the hinge of the lid and pro- jecting over the mouth of the pitcher. N. celebica has a horn-like appendage on the lid at a point opposite the hinge. Briefly, all the complex arrangements favour the descent ■of insects and other creatures into the pitcheis, and hinder almost all visitors from getting out again. Once in there is little hope of escape. A few hybrids were also shown, notably one named Sir William Thiseitun Dyer, which has produced the largest known pitcher in cultiva- tion, being a pint and three-quarters in capacity. LiftTE NOTES. W^intpy weathep in April.— The weather here Juiiug ihe month ol March was mild and moist, and continued so until the evening of the 4ili inst. , when a most undesirable change took place. On that date the wind thifted into a northerly direclion, and hds remained bitterly cold since. On 1 he morning of the 6.I1 0° of frost weie registered, and on the "ih 2 inches of snow fell, giving ihe landscape a very wintry appearance. It struck one as a moat unu-ual siglit, thouijh one of great beauty, to see brii^lit j'elluw Diirodils, many coloured Polyanthuses, heautiful purple Primula capitata, Sa.xifraga crassifolia, with their lovely pink blooms, and other hardy spring flowers showing their bright blossoms above the groundwork of pure whive snow. But most striking of all were large bushes of flowering Currants, theirdrooping branches drapid with crimson flowers, and gleaming like jewels in a setting of dazzling while. Sad it was to watch hungry thrushi s hunting round for worms with which to feed shivering, unfledged families, who, like our Peach, Plum, Cherrj', and other blossoms, were baJlv prepared for such a sudden change. — J. jErjTKEY, The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, '''ii-kciidbright. National C hrys anthemum Society's market show. — The com- mittee which carried out to such a successful issue the exhibition of Chrysanthemums as grown for market, which, it will bo remembered, was hold in the Essex Hall, Strand, in December la^t, made a recommendation to the executive ' ^mmittee that a second show should be held in December next, the 13th being the date named. The executive committee acceded to this recommendation, and authorised the holding of an exhibition on the date named. The com- mittee having power to extend their numbers, have done so, it being strengthened by the intro- duction of a strong market element ; and as the Essex Hall would be certain to be too small, application was made to His Grace the Duke of Bedford for permission to hold it in the French Flower iSIarket, Covent Garden, and His Grace has kindly given his consent to the application, a result warmly welcomed by both growers and salesmen, not only as being so much more con- venient, but also asatTjrding so much more space. The committee are engaged in framing a scheme to provide a show on a larger scal§, the particu- lars of which will be made public as soon as possible. The Henry Eckford testimonial. The subscripiioii.s received towards this fund up to Saturday, the S.h inst., are : Sliijs. Sli'jfs. Previously Mr. S. F. Jackson . . 5 :icknowledged 15!).| Mr. W. .Tunes .. .. 1 Mr. E B;wley .. ..1 Mr. L. .J. .Mcllae .. 1 Mr. A. F. Blades .. 5 Mr. A. Xii«ll .. ..2 Mr. R B..Uon .. .. 5 ,M r, .-i (J. N. .rmaii .. 1 Mr. ■!'. ClKillia ,. .. 6 Mr. 0. Oiiijan .. .. 2 ilr. ^'eville Cle^a: .. 5 Mr. R, I[. Pearson .. 5 Messrs. E Iniuiidson Mr. A. Roiiev ,.1 Bros 1 Mr. U. It i»s " ..1 Emerson P.iik norlicul- Miss U C. Philbrick .. 101 Lurjil Sjciely ,. ., l:V, Mrs. Sii.uli .. l" Dr. D. L. Frerland .. '.IV Jlrs. Arnold Steer .. 5 Mr. T. F. fi .artsljy .. 1 Mr. T. Suvejis.in .. 2.V Mr. S. F lliagiMS .. 1 I\l r. G. T.iwnsend .. 1 Messrs. I. ilouae and Son lii^ Mi'. '1*. -V. Weston .. 1 Cinerarias at Farnhara Royal.— When the Cineraria blooms we know the spring has come, even it the Primroses in the woodland were not there to tell us. It fills the greenhouse with a colour that no other flower can give in so great a diversity of sumptuous hues, that is, when the strain is as fine as that in Messrs. James and Sous' nursery at Farnham Royal. We have written of this beautiful race of flowers on many occasions, but it is always a pleasure as the years pass by to see the Cinerarias in the months of April and May, when the plants are in their beauty. This strain is known as dwarf, but in the growth there is nothing unpleasantly formal. The plants are leafy, luxuriant, and crowned with masses of flowers, which for size and symmetry are remarkable, the work of many years of patient crossing and hybridisation to achieve an ideal plant. This was accomplished many years ago by the present ownei's father, but there has been no retrogression, rather con- tinued improvement, as the splendid display in the houses to-da}' fully testifies. The colours are kept distinct, and the effect is bewildering. One houeo is filled with a white form, set off by a centre of violet. This, to our thinking, is the most beautiful of the race. In another bouse there is a self purple, so rich and intense that even a Clematis Jackmani would pale before it. On one passes, from blue to blue with white centre, pure rose, pink, and crimson, a brilliant gathering together of all that is best in the world of Cinerarias. In another part of the nursery a bouse is full of the stellaia group, the variety most prized being almost pure white. It is a beautiful flower, graceful and distinct. It is a matter of opinion whether the dwarf or the taller Cineraria is the more welcome. We can only say that both have their distinctive merits. A charming' break in Cineraria Stellata. — Messrs. Jarman and Co., seed merchants, Chard, have just sent me some sprays of several varieties of Cineraria stellata, in which the edges of the florets recurve, as in many of the Cactus Dahlias ; indeed, the strain might be denominated Cactus Cinerarias, as they resemble in shape the single Cactus Dahlias. Some were white, others blush, also blue and violet-blue, and some charmingly lipped, such as white tipped with bright pinkish violet, and white tipped with bright rosy purple. Then to add to their attractiveness they have dark discs, which in the case of Cinerarias always all'ord the best contrast. Messrs. Jarman and Co. say that the plants are not so tall and straggling in growth as in the older types, but are yet quite as graceful. For fur- nishing small vases on the table they are, judging from the experiments I made with the Sorters sent me from Chard, most suitable. — R. D. OBITUARY. JAMES WILSON, ST. ANDREWS. The old city of St. Andrews, Fife, is famed as a University seat and as the Mecca of golf rather than as a centre of horticultural enterprise. Visitors, however, have long been aware of the existence of an interesting florist's establishment there, built up by the late Mr. Jj.mes Wilson, anel conducted by him for over forty years. Mr. Wilson was trained to gardening in St. Andrews, and he was a typical member of the old school. When an apprentice he set about making a herbarium of the plants of the district, walking many a mile for the purpose after the duties of the day were over. Every branch of gaidening found in him an earnest student and an expert exponent. None, however, appealed to him more than that of landscape gardening. To skill and taste in plan drawing he added ingenuity of execution and a thorough knowledge of plants suitable for the work in hand. Such works of his as the planting of the fine Lime trees in the main street, the laying out of the new cemetery, and the remodelling of the extensive grounds of St. Leonard's School for Girls may be mentioned. Mr. Wilson took a deep and practical interest in the experiments in hybridisation carried on by his second son, Dr. John H. Wilson, Lecturer in Agriculture to the University of St. Andrews. As a result, Greenside Nursery now contains many highly interesting and well-grown novelties of value to both gardeners and farmers. It is satisfactory to know that the business falls into I he hands of the eldest son, Mr. James Wilson. Mr. Wilson died suddenly on the 7th inst., aged seventy years. J. BUERELL, CAMBRIDGE. We regret to hear, at the moment of going to press, of the death of Mr. Burrell from pneu- monia, after a brief illness. Mr. Burrell was greatly beloved by all with whom he came in contact, and his skill as a raiser of new Dahlias and Gladioli is almost worldwide known. April 15, 1905.] THE GARDEN. XI. ROWNTREE S NEW EIANT SWEET PEAS. Our Essex grown Sweet Peas are vastly superior to the German and other foreign j:i:rown seed, of which large quantities are sold in this country. Our 24-page booklet, **/#ov^ tO Gi*OW snU ShOW the Finest Sv^reet /'eaSj'^with notes on " Preparing the Gi-ound," " Sowing tlie Seed," " Protection Irora Vermin," "Thinning," "Staking," "Watering," "Mulching," "Manuring," "Shading," " Exhibitincr," etc., will be sent free with all orders. COIUCTION NO. 4.-12 NEWEST AND BEST VARIETIES. Dorothy Eckford, new giant white self. King Edward VII., the richest and brightest crimson. Mrs. Walter Wright, beautiful shade of mauve, new. Dainty, creamy white, with pink picotee edge, new. Miss Wlllmott, deep orange pink, giant flower. Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon, the best primrose-yellow. Lady Grisel Hamilton, beautiful pale lavender. liOrd Bosebery, rich rose carmine. Prima Donna, beautiful shade of soft pink. Jeannie Gordon, bright rose, shaded cream. Duke of Westminster, shining violet purple. Countess Cadogan, violet and sky blue. 13 packets, 50 seeds in each, 2/6, post free. Gratis, with this Collection, i packet Eragrostis Elegans. COLLECTION NO. 2.-12 SUPERIOR VARIETIES. Sadie Burpee, pure pearly-white, of dainty form. Mars, bright fiery-crimson self. Emily Eckford, rich cerulean blue. Countess of Badnor, lavender self. Countess of Po-ivis, glowing orange, suffused purple. liOttle Hutchlns, delicate cream, llaked rose. Countess of Lathom, blush-pink, tinged salmon-buS. liord Kenyon, rich rosy-crimson. Hon. F. Bouverie, beautiful coral pink. Prince Edward of York, scarlet and rose. Stanley, deep maroon, self large and handsome. Admiral ion, delicate rosy-mauve. COLLECTION NO. 3.-12 SUPERB VARIETIES. Blanche Burpee, purest white, extra large, bold form. Sunproof Salopian, deep cdaison, superb flower. Dorothy Tennant. pucy-violet, or rose-mauve. Lottie EckforJ, white, with pure picotee edge. Lady Marie Currie, orange-pmk, sliaded rosy-lilac. Queen Victoria, soft primrose-yellow, bold flower. Coccinea, beautiful cerise self. Prince of Wales, bright rose self on intense colour. LiOvelV) soi^t s'ti.:11 pink, truly most " lovely." Gorgeous, standards orange-salmon, rose wings. Black Knight, deep maroon self, clear and shining. . Navy Blue, rich dark violet-blue. 12 packets, 50 seeds in each, 2/- post free. Gratis, with this Collection, i packet Agrostis Nebulosa. ' COLLECTION NO. 1.-12 GOOD OLD FAVOURITES. Emily Henderson, large pure white. George Gordon, bright reddish-crimson lake. Ladv Skfilmersdaie, rosy-pink and lavender. Aurora, fine bold flower ; flaked orange-salmon. ^ Mrs. Dugdale, most lovely rose, shaded 1 rimrose. VenuB, salmon-bnff, delicately shaded rosy pink. ^ Golden Gate pinkisli-mauve, darker picotee edge. Captivation, rosy-purple self, a charming variety, r,o Royal Rose, deep rose standards, pink wings. Triumph, orange-pink standards, wings rosy purple. Her Majesty, rich rosy-crimson self. Captain of the Blues, bright purple-blue. 12 packets, &0 seeds in each, 1/- post free. 2, 3 and i, 5/-: 1, 2, 3 and 4, 6/-. This mixture of 12 packets, 50 seeds in each, 1/6, post free. Gratis, with this Collection, i packet Gypsophila Elegans. SPECIAL PRICE for COLLECTIONS, 3 and 3, 4/ ROWNTREE'S "MATCHLESS" MIXTURE OF GIANT SWTEET PEAS FOR 1935 the finest large-flowered Sweet Peas is absolutely unequalled. Each year we strive to " surpass ourselves " in this special mixture. We are quite sure that, notwithstanding the claims of some competitors, an equally hi^}i-'!.rade mixlure cannot be obtained dscwheye. The seed, of course, is not g^roic'u in mixture at all. It is " biended " by ourselves of the largest-flowered, most beautiful named varieties -each grown separately from the finest selected strains, and consists of all the best and ** only the best "of the varieties introduced prior to last year, and which have never before been included in any mixture ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... J-lb., 3/- ; per oz., 1/-; per pkt., 6d. ROWNTREE'S "SPECIAL" MIXTURE OF SOFT AND DELICATE COLOURS, which are greatly in demand for decorative work and comprising all those unique shades and combinations of colour so much appreciated by ladies- We have specially prepared this mixture of the finest large-flowering varieties only, and we can highly recommend it to those who have a preference for the pale alluring tints of this exquisite flower ... ... .. Per packet, 6d. and 1/_ 30, GREAT ST HELENS, LONDON, EC And at Chelmsford, Essex. ROWNTREE BROS., f.r.h.s., CHEAP PUKT8 fob PRESENT PLANTING. Orders of 5s. and over are sent carriage paid to any address in the United Kingdom (for cash with oMer). 5. d. 12 Michaelmas Daisies in 12 varieties 2 6 12 Pyrethrums in 12 best varieties 4 o 12 Aquilegias, fine long spurred 2 o 12 Oriental Poppies, crimson and salmon 2 6 12 Phloxes in 12 varieties ' 3 6 12 Pa3onies in 12 varieties S o 12 Pentstemon Barbatus 2 o 12 Canterbury Bells i o 12 Double White Arabis 2 o 12 Chrysanthemum Maximum 2 6 12 Tiarella Cordifolia 2 6 12 Dielytra Spectabilis 3 o 12 Gaillardia Grandiflora 2 6 12 Geum Coccineum 2 o 12 Physalis Franchetti 2 o 12 Hypericum Calycinum 3 o Special Spring clearance offer of Fruit Trees, Roses and Perennials free on application. 5. 5. MARSHALL, Ld., I he Barnham Nurseries, Sussex. All to gather All together The idea that Seeds in threepenny packets germinate better than the same seeds in penny packets is as profitable for the Seller as it's wasteful for the Buyer. Be wise and send for List of Seeds in Penny Packets. The Co-operative Bees, Ltd., Liverpool. Blackmore & Langdon's BEGONIAS, Our Type of Double Begonia, from a PnoTOGRArH. Are unequalled for Conservatory decoration, Exhibition, or for Bedding purposes. SEND FOR PRGE LIST GRA IS. NOW READY, STRONG PLANTS LATEST AMERICAN TREE CARNATIONS. BORDER CARNATIONS IN GRAND VARIETY. Strong Plants in pots 5/- and 7/6 per dozen. TWERTON HILL NURSERY, BATH. THE CRAVEN NURSERY, GLAPHAM, LANCASTER. The Nursery for all Rare and Beautiful ALPINES & AQUATICS. No connoction with any establishment similarly named. All Goli'eotors of Alpines should apply for GatalogueSm STRONG PLANTS, TRUE TO NAME, FAIR PRICES. ALSO A FINE ASSORTMENT OF Japanese Plants and Gardens. NOW IS THE TIME TO PLANT EVERGREENS Of which it may not generally be known that many kinds, especially those referred to below, are in splendid condition (always of course supposing that they have, as in this case, been properly prepared) for removal in Spring, even when growth has commenced, such as HOLLIES, AUSTRIAN and other PINES, YEWS, LAURELS, AUCUBAS, IVY TREES or BUSHES, RHODODENDRONS, etc. CHEAP GOLLEG780NS of extraordinary value (R. S. & Co.'s choice) for Customers' requirements : — 12 Shrubs in 12 sorts for 6,'- to 12/- „ 20;- to 35 - i^tft. to 2ft., ,, 12/- 10 24/- ", „ „ ,, 40;- to 90,'- 3ft. to 5ft., ,. 24/- to 42'- ,, ,, ,, for SO.- to 150,- 50 ,, M 25 1:; Conifers in 12 50 M ., 25 50 t25 A magnificent corection of HERBACEOUS and ALPINE PLANTS in prime ordtr for removal. Also PLANTS IN POTS most suitable for Pergrolas, Verandahs, Trellises, WalEsj Screens, Hang-Jng^ Baskets, etc. These plaits have been very carefully selected for various situations and objects, with a view to greatly enhancing beauty in landscape, etc., where already existing, and supplying it where so often needed, in obscuring or transforming an eyesore into a lovely sight. Catalogues, further particulars, or advice on application. RIGHARD SMITH & CO. WORGESTER. LAURELS Bushy and Finely Booted. Best and Hardiest. OTUNDIFOLIA i8in. to 24in. 16/-, 24in. to 3oin. 20/-, 3oin. to 4oin. 30,'- per roo, R. B. LAIRD & SONS, Ltd., EDINBURGH. XII. THE GARDEN. [Apjui, 15, ly05. BO^KS. La Griffe et la Taille des Hosiers.* Books on Roses abound in all languages, and we have often wondered who there is that will some day undertake the work of compiling a complete up-to-date bibliography of the Queen of Flowers, the only attempt we know of having been made at least thirteen years ago by a Spanish writer. To the already lengthy list the veteran author and horticulturist, M. Charles Biltet of Troyes, has recently added one on the grafting and pruning of Roses. This, which has just reached us, is a neatly printed little manual of 115 pages, octavo in size, and containing forty-six illustra- tions. Instructions for grafting on the variou' stocks are given in a series of chapters that seem to cover the whole subject. To know how to graft, to know when and how to prune a Rose according to its vigour and species, are certainly questions likely to interest all lovers of this ever- popular flower. M. Ba,ltet, as an experienced grower, is well qualified to speak with authority on all such matters. Instructions are also added to guide gardeners and beginners in Rose culture in the requirements of the flower, and in addition to these a list of the finest Roses has been com- piled by the author's son, M. Lucien Charles Baltet, in the various sections and according to their colours. Rose-growers who understand French will no doubt find much interesting matter in this little book which, it is claimed, has not yet been sufficiently made clear in the various special treatises that have hitherto appeared. Les Plantes Alimentaires Indi- genes.!"— y.aite a little pamphlet, uniform in size with the preceding, and dealing with edible plants, &c. , indigenous to France. The author reminds us that in years gone by, in times of famine and distress, our ancestors were often compelled to eat many roots and wild herbs that to-day no longer find a place on our tables. Potato growing has largely displaced many of these, and indigenous edible plants of the present are Mushrooms, Cornsalad, Dandelion, Water- cress, and one or two others. The treatise is divided into three main headings: 1, Tubers, rhizomes, bulbs, and edible roots. '2, Herbaceous plants that can be eaten after cooking like Spinach, Cabbage, and Asparagus. .3, Indigenous herbaceous plants to be ujed as salades. TRADE NOTE. The Eureka Weed Killer. This is a labour-saving age, and, as wiih machinery, eo chemicals play a large part in effecting saving, Itecenlly a test has been made npon garden paths and drives with a preparation called the Eureka Weed Killer, and it has been found most effective in its action. It is supplied eitlier as a dry powder to mix with water or in liquid form, both preparations being the same in price and effect, though the powder seems generally preferred. The solution is easily applied by means of a water-can with rose, and within a short time of application the weeds, moss, and other growths are killed, and the ground is brightered and cleansed without being disturbed. It has been found that the average cost for treating lOO £(iuare yards of path is only Is. 6d. The makers of the Eureka preparations are Tomlinson and Ilayward, Limited, Lincoln. FORTHCOMING SHOWS. April 25.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Auricula and Primula Show) ; Chesterfteld Horticultural Show. May 9.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting. May 11,— Annual Dinner of the Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund, Hotel Cecil. May 17.— Royal Botanic Society's Show, Regent's Park. May 23.— Jloyal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Tulip Show), May ti*,— Royal Caledonian Horticultural Show at Edinburgh (two days) ; York Society of Florists' Show, May 30.— Royal Horticultural Society's Temple Show (three days) ; Bath and West of England Show (five days). ♦ "La Griffe et la Taille des Rosiers," By Chailes Baltet. Paris ; ^lasson et Cie, 120, B;inlevard St. Germain, and Maison Rusticjue, 21, rue Jacob. t "Les Plantes Alimentaires Indigenes." By Georges Qibault. Libraiiie Uorticole, 81 bis rue de Grenelle, Paris. June 1.— Rhododendron Exhibition, Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, throughout the month. June 7,— R-.yal Botanic Society's Show (three days), June IC— Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution -\nnual Dinner. June 20, — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting ; ,Salterhebble Flower Show. June 21, — York Gala (three days). June 27. — Oxford Commemoration Show. June 28, — Suuthaniptun Rise Show (two days) ; Rich- mond (Surre.v) Ilurlicullural Show. June 29,— Colchesttr Ui.rticultural Show. July 1, — Royal Hurticultural Society's fleeting; National Sweet Pea Society's Show ; Sutton Rose Show. July 5,— Tunbridge Wells, Hanley (two days), and C ojdon Flower Shows. July 6,— Xational Rose Society's Show ; Sidcup Flower Show. July n,— Wolverhanipfon Floral Fc'e (Ihree days). July 13,— Wocdhrirlge llorlicuUural Show, July IS,— Royal Horiicultural Socieiy's Meeting (Car- nation and Picotee Show); Nitional Rose Show at Gloucester, July 19,— Newcastle-on-Tyne Flower , Show (three days); Yolk Floiista' Show, July 25,— Tibshelf Horticultural Show. SILVER CUP TO EE OFFERED BY MESSRS. JAMES CARTER AND CO., HI8U HOLBORN, AT THE NATIONAL POTATO SOCIETY'S SHOW IN DECEMBER NEXT. July 26.— Southampton Carnation Show and Cardiff Flower Show (two days). August 1,— Royal Horticultural Socieiy's Meeting. August 2, — Chestei field Uorlicullural Show. August 7,— Lichfielil, Wells, Mmslield, Grantham, and Ilkeston Flower Shows, August 9,— E shop's Stortford, Tavistock, and "Ventnor Horticultural Shows. Aucust 15 -Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting; Clay Cross Horticuliural Show. August 10, — Calne and Ifarpenden Flower Shows, August 17,— Dyffryn District and 'Taunton Deane Horti- cultural Shows, August 19,— Seascale and Lake District and Sheffield Flower Shows. August. 21.— Warkworth Horiicultural Show. August 22, — Rothesay and Oxford Flower Shows. August 23.— Shrewsbury Floral Fc'.e (two days), August 24,— Aberdeen Flower .Show (three days), August '20,— Jedburgh Horticultural Show, August 29,— Royal Horticultur.il Society's Meeting. August 30. — Bath Flower Show (two days). August 31.— Ellesmere and Sandy Horticultural Shows. GARDENING APPOINTMENTS. Mr. R, Smith, for two years foreman at ,\losiyn Hall, as head gardener to ihe Earl of Denbigh, Djwning Hall, Holywell, North Wales. Mk. W, Ronsos, R.jyal Botanic Gardens, Kew, has been appointed agricultural instructor at the Botanic Station, ,\lMntseiTar, West Indies. Mr, G, Johnson, for the past four years foreman at Knowslty Gardens, Prescot, has been appointed gardener to Lord Buiuham, Hall Barn, BeaconsHeld, Liucks, PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. APRIL. FRUIT TREES IN POTS. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA will be given for the best ans'weis to the questions published belo'w. This competition is open to all professional gardeners. Replies must be addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 3 — 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London, "W.C, marked "Com- petition," and must reach this office not later than May 1. I. — Do you consider annual repotting to be beneficial to fruit trees in pots or not? II. — When should fruit trees in pots (not hard forced) be repotted? Give the ingredients of what you would consider to be an ideal soil. What is likely to occur after potting if proper precautions are not taken ? III. — When would you prune Peach and Nectarine trees in pots ; describe the method you would adopt. IV. — What is the average life of a pot fruit tree when properly grown ? Complaints are often made that pot fruit trees quickly deteriorate. Why is this ? Describe the best method of restoring the trees to health. V. — Give the best six varieties for pot culture of Peaches, Plums, and Cherries, and the best three varieties of Figs and Nectarines. Say which you consider to be the best one in each case. VI. — In order to have pot-grown fruits of Cherries, Plums, Poaches, and Figs ripe by the middle of May, say when you would start the trees, and give the tem- peratures for each fortnight until the fruits are ripe. VII. — What is the best chemical manure for Cherries, Plums, and Peaches ? (Special concentrated manures must not be men- tioned.) Say why it is the best. VIII. — What is the proper treatment for trees after forcing ? PRIZES OPEN TO ALL, Plan of a Flower Border. A FIRST PRIZE of Five Guineas and a second prize of Tivo Guineas are offered for the best plan of a border of hardy perennials, 130 feet long by 10 feet wide, drawn to a scale of a quarter of an inch to a foot ; bold grouping and good arrangement for colour and succession to be the main • considerations. Half-hardy annuals and biennials may be included. The names of the plants to be written in their spaces on the plan — not referred to by letter or number. This competition remains open until the last day in September. \* The Yearly SiibRcription to TuK Garden w: Inland, Os. Od. ; Foreign, Ss. i/d. #^. ^>r-®— - GARDEN No. 1744.— Vol. LXVII. April 22, 1905. ROSES — OWN ROOT OR GRAFTED. WE print with pleasure the following interesting letter, asking for the opinions of readers on the merits of own root or grafted Eoses. There is so much to be said on this subject that we hope our correspondent's wish will bs gratified. We should much like to know the varieties that succeed well on their own roots, a list that may be trusted. "You would be doing amateurs a service if you could afford space in your paper for the recorded experience of Rose growers who are in a position to compare own root Roses with those that have been grafted. From time to time stray letters appear exulting over results from one or the other method, but the whole facts are never given. What we want is careful observation extending over several years, and the conditions given relating to soil, situation, rainfall, and the names of the Roses grown. The following are extracts from the conclusions of other growers. Taken as a whole they are some- what elusive as working instructions : " ' Tea Roses require a rich, greasy loam.' " ' Tea Roses need a light soil.' " ' They do best on the seedling Briar.' " ' They should be grown entirely on their own roots.' " ' They like plenty of cow manure.' " ' Manure of any kind is unnecessary.' " This last statement is from a recent letter in which the writer asserts that he has grown the finest Tea Roses for seven years in a place without ever giving one inch of manure of any kind. He attributes his success to grow- ing the Roses on their own roots. " Here is my experience, to which I do not attach any undue importance, being but an amateur who grows dwarf Tea Roses massed for garden effect, and who attends to them in the intervals of a busy life not closely connected with a bed of Roses. " My garden is about 80 feet above the sea level, in a valley in Kent, about 200 yards from a stream. My principal Tea Rose beds were made about ten years ago, the natural soil, which is of a light and hungry nature, liaving been dug out to a depth of 3 feet, and tilled in with prepared soil, consisting of yellow loam and manure from a local nursery- man. This soil, however, must still be described as light and friable, and different from what is meant by heavy clay loam. In these beds the following Roses have given abundance of bloom for ten years, but notably in very wet summers: .Jules Finger, Anna Olivier, Mme. Hoste, Mme. Lambard, S. A. Prince, Souv. d'un Ami, George Nabonnand, Mme. Charles, Maman Cochet, Marie van Houtte, Dr. Grill, Princesse de Sagan, and Yvonne Gravier. These plants were grafted on the seedling Briar. I have observed that similar plants from the same nursery, when planted in a Sussex garden some 500 feet above the sea, made much larger growth and yielded finer blooms, in fact, the finest I ever saw. Here the natural soil appeared to be heavy clay loam of great depth, and the rainfall was in excess of that of Kent. " The Tea Roses that I have struck on their own roots were got by inserting ripe growths from my own plants in the open during September. The few that lived made but weakly growth, and, although some five years old now, are not so vigorous as the grafted plants in my old beds. I have tried striking them in both well-manured ground and ground not specially manured, this latter being kitchen garden soil which had had no manure for more than two years. There was no apparent difference in growth. All the own root plants of the Tea Roses must be described as poor and weakly in growth. La France and Caroline Testout, on the contrary, have succeeded with me well on their own roots, and five year old plants are now vigorous bushes. Here, then, is a record, for what it is worth, of my experience, not my opinion, mark you. The only opinion I have arrived at about Roses is that they require a very large quantity of rain-water. " Sydney Spalding." ORIGIN OF OUR ANCIENT WHITE DAFFODILS. The native habitats of the Daffodils of Uaworth's day has always been an attractive subject to the writer, and none more so than the numerous white varieties. N. moschatus of Mount Perdu some have thought to be the parent form. I am inclined to vote for N. variiformis of Parkinson. The two wild plants grow at no great distance from each other, and there is just a possibility that some ancient hybridiser may have worked with these two geographical varieties. Should they have originated from one of the two I know of no wild Daffodil from amongst which you may select flowers of N. varii- formis that so nearly fit in with such ancient forms as N. tortuosus, albicans, cernuus, Ida, &c. The trumpets of N. variiformis present counterparts to those I have named. The tinge of yellow on the frill of the trumpet of Ida I have not yet matched, but may do so, as I have thousands yet to flower of collected bulbs of N. variiformis. The shape of the perianth can be matched of all the white Daffodils of ancient forms I have yet seen, but a few points more sulphury and more flimsy in N. variiformis than in those much- prized varieties of white Daffodils. Many years ago when I reintroduced N. variiformis I made a careful selection to grow on as distinct, but, like nearly all wild Daffodils, N. variiformis does not like garden culture, and they all died. At this time Mr. W. Buckhouse's and Mr. Edward Needs' fine seedlings came into my hands, and the lesser had to give place to the greater, and only now have I had the opportunity to daily watch the opening flowers of this beautiful mountain Daffodil, and I commend it as superb for naturalisation. This promises to be a good flowering Daffodil season, and there is no doubt many readers of The Gaeden" have Narcissus variiformis in their Daffodil collection. I hope some of them will look into the question I have raised and give your readers the benefit of their opinion, and throw such light as they may possess on this very interesting subject. Kirn, Scotland. Peter Baee, V.M.H. ENGLISH v. AMERICAN APPLES. I AM much interested in the discussions of British fruit - growing published in The Gaeden. I think it would pay your growers to study the co-operative methods of packing, grading, and shipping practised on the Pacific coast. Oregon Apples, packed in bushel boxes, sell here for the highest prices, beating New York State growers on their own ground. I do not think the actual quality superior, but they are so beautiful, perfectly graded, and in convenient packages. Emily Taplin Royle. Mayivood, N.J. I FANCY myself a judge of Apples. I stole them as a boy whenever I got the chance, and I always found them delightful. I still think that Apples are the best fruit grown, but I do not often get hold of so good an Apple as those were when I was a boy. A few years ago I was in Canada, and on my way home I passed through Nova Scotia, staying one night with the Hon. W. Owen at Bridgwater. It was at the end of Sep- tember, and during the night there was a frost. In the morning, before breakfast, I asked my host to take me out into his orchard and let me pick some Apples for myself. The trees were sparkling in a frosty dress and the sun was shining when he took me to a tree which was loaded with red- tinted fruit. I picked and ate one of the Apples, and I never tasted anything better in all my life. It was even better than the 232 THE GARDEN. [Apkil 22, 1905. stolen fruit of my childhood. I asked wbat was its name; he leplied, " Gravenstein." His brother promised to send me a barrel over to London later in the year, and he kept his promise. People who say, "Ah, I will send you something later," generally forget. He did not. When the barrel arrived the Apples were bruised and tasteless, and friends to whom I had related my delightful Nova Scotian experiences said, when they tasted some of the fruit, " Well, I don't think much of your Gravensteins." I admit they were not the same thing. A Gravenstein is too delicate a fruit to travel. It must be picked otf the tree. Soon after my return to England I planted some cordon Gravensteins in my little York- shire garden. They have not borne any fruit yet. but I live in hope. A gardener without hope must be a miserable sort of person I should think. I have lots of hope, and sow it with the seeds in the spring, and I scatter it freely in the holes in which 1 plant my cordons. 1 wonder if the Gravensteins will do well in my Yorkshire soil. I think so. I/io/)eso. If they do not, however, I believe that I shall have to go back to Bridgwater, Nova Scotia, to pick some more and eat them where I pick them. That is the way to eat a Graven- stein. Eon. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. April "25. — Royal Horticultural Socielj's meeting ; Cheater field Flower Show. May 9. — Roval Horticultural Society's Meeting. May 11. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund Dinner. May 17. — Ro3'al Botanic Society's Exhibition. A Coloured Plate of Rosa moschata nivea will be given with The Gardex next week. Royal Horticultural Society.— At the meeting held on tlie 11th iust. , Mr. T. .J, Powell of Henley-on-Thames gave a lecture on " Retarded Potatoes," which was illustrated by photographs and actual specimens. The ne.xt exhibition and general meeting of this society will be held on Tuesday next (Easter Tuesday), when lectures will be delivered by M. Albert Maumene on " .Japanepe Dwarf Trees," and by Mr. James Hudson, V.M.H., on ".Japanese Gardens in England." A fortnight later. May !l, lectures will also be delivered on "Japanese Horticulture and Gardens," liy Mr. N. Hayashi and Mr. R. E. Farrer. Mr. Hudson's and Mr. Farrer's lectures will be illustrated with lantern slides, and as Japanese plants in England are at their best during this time the council hope that there will be a fine and representative exhibit of Japanese plants of all kinds. Belvoir Castle spring- flowers.— These are now opening (|uickly. Already the Polyanthuses, Ericas, Daisies, Aubrietias in variety, and others make the garden look gay. The recent heavy snow and severe frost have not done any serious injury to ihem, but the full display is somewhat delayed in consequence. They will probably be at their best during the last week of April and the first week in May. The flower gardens are open to the public free daily. Rhododendron racemosum.— At- tention was drawn to this beautiful Rhododen- dron in The Garden in 1892, when it was a new introduction, and since that time mention has been made of its altraclive character on several occasions. Although it has been in commerce now for fifteen years or so, it cannot be said to be at all a common plant, for, although it is in many gardens, we do not find it in quantity, while it is one of those shrubs eminently fitted for culture on an extensive scale. For gardens where peat-loving shrubs thrive it is the sort of thing to plant in large masses, for, although single plants are very pretty, it is when seen in quantity that its true worth becomes known. At Kew several good-sized patches may be seen through April in flower. The species is a native of Western China, and though it grows upwards of 2 feet high, it blooms freely when but a couple of years old and but a few inches above the ground. The leaves, are oval, 1 inch to 1| inches long, deep green above, and white lavishly dotted with brown on the under surface ; the blossoms are small, i inch to J inch across, and may be either white, delicately shaded with pink, or rich rosy pink in colour. They are borne several together, principally from the axils of the leaves, branches of last year's wood looking like racemes of flowers. At present it is catalogued at rather high prices, which is a pity, for it can be raised in quantity from seeds, and matures more quickly than most Rhododendrons. Were it to be obtained in quantity at a reasonable rate it would be excellent for forcing for conservatory decoration. It is figured in the Botanical AIaf a creamy-white colour. Though belonging to the family of Acanthads the individual blooms • lear a certain amount of resemblance to a IJignonia. A second species, A. bella, formerly known as Maokaya bella, introduced from Natal about thirty-five years ago, is a pleasing shrub for the warm greenhouse. In this the flowers are lilac marked with purple. To induce this to Ijloom freely the wood must be well ripened by exposure to the sun towards the end of summer and in autumn. — H. P. Tufted Pansy Mrs. E. A. Cade.— This i'uILed Pansy is already flowering Ireeiy in ihfiferent parts of the country. The rich bright yellow rayless flowers are ver}' fragrant. It flowers almost continuously. The growth is robust, one year old plants making sturdy tufts, which, if lifted, may be broken up into several pieces, and the stock is perpetuated freely in this way. The flowers of this var.ety are carried on erect foot-stalks, just above the foliage, and are of good substance. It is a long time since we had a Tufted Pansy of this colour. — C. A. H. "How to Use Nitrate."— ^Titrate of soda 18 such a valuable fertilising agent that many will, doubtless, be glad to hear of the book " How to Use Nitrate," which gives practical hints for the profitable application of nitrate of soda as a fertiliser, derived from recognised authorities. It contains also a lecture on " Some Points in Artificial Manuring," by Dr. Bernard Dyer. The publishers are Messrs. G. Street and Co., Limited, 30, Cornhill, E.G. Notes from a Yorkshire gparden. The Almond blossom and that of Pruuus Pissarai, so beautiful in Surrey gardens in mid-March, are not out yet, but in many ways we do not seem to be much behind our Southern friends this year. It is now Daffodil time. The dainty Pallidus prseoox opened on the 12th ult. in the hedge bank facing north, and was soon followed by an early bloom or two of the Tenby and Golden Spur, but it is only now, in the opening days of April, that the golden cups are beginning to expand in hundreds. Golden Spur is a very rich, deep colour, and one of the finest of the large trumpets, ^upe^ior, I think, to Ard Righ. Close by a group (It these tall, handsome sorts is the small but well-shaped rich gokJen Tenby Daffodil (Obval- laiia) ; and beyoud a [jot otT the seedlings into 3-inoh pots and treat liberally at all limes. By the first week in Miy ihese will be good, strong plants for putting out, and as a rule they grow away freely at once. 'I'he plants wintered under glass may flower a little earlier, but the dllferenee is not worth the extra trouble. Any good strain is suitable, but so far I have found Sattons' and Cannells' to be the best. Antirrhinums are one of the subjects which do well in the county of Lancaster. Moorjidd, Swinton^ Lancashire. H. Webb, IPOMCEA KUBRO-aERULEA. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I strongly recommend this beautiful climber. We have quite a number of plants this season, which we purpose potting on for running up bare posts and wires in the flowering house. We have no difficulty in raising it from seed, as it germinates quickly and freely, and plants which are now in iinch pots are beginning to climb already. The blue Convolvulus-shaped flowers are very attractive. One fault 1 have with this climber is that the flowers do not last very long when once fully open ; but, as Miss Mitchell says, it is so free flowering that one does not notice their fading so quickly. We intend planting it out in the open this summer. BODORGAN. THE STAG'S-HORX FERN GROWN IN A ROOM. [To THE Editor or " The Garden."] Sir, — Referring to your note on the Stag's-horn Fern, in The Garden of February i last, I send you a photograph of a Platycerium alcicorne which has been growing for three years in the sitting-room of Mrs. Marcus. The room has a south aspect, with two windows, one of which is never opened. In the latter stands the plant. The leaves are never moistened except when they are washed. The plant is not exposed to the summer sun. This Fern wants a quantity of water and some artificial manure once a week. DiiiseldorJ. Da. Alfred Marcus. DESTROYING FIELD MICE. [To THE Editor of " The Gardes."] Sir, — As an alternative, and, I think, preferable, method to that advised by your correspondent "J. A. T." in The Garde.v of the 1st inst., page 190, 1 would suggest the following: Saturate a piece of rag with ether (ordinary methylated ether will do), push well down into the holes, and cover up with a piece of turf, or press some mould firmly on top. Ether vapour is heavier than air, and travels to the lowest portion of the tunnels. I have found this quite effective, and should imagine it to be less dangerous to sur- rounding vegetation than the fumes of burning sulphur. Enfield. A. D. Fort. GARRYA ELLIPTICA. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Several letters have appeared of late in The Garden respecting the above shrub. May I be allowed to pen a few lines as to its treat- ment here at Bjdorgan. In North Wales two fine specimens planted on a wall facing south- east were, two years ago, one mass of flowers ; this last season the catkins were not so tine, owing, possibly, to being pruned a bit too hard back in the early spring. They have no protection whatever during winter, and the situation they are in is facing the sea, slightly sheltered by various other trees and shrubs, but not by any means dense ones. I have used these long-iiowering shoots in the hall. Arranged in a large vase they make a nice contrast to the various brighter colours of other decorations. It is a shrub worthy of a place in every pleasure ground, even if protection must be given in winter. Djdonjau. G. S. Jordan. THE PURPLE SAX[FRAGE. (S. OPPOSiriFOLIA.) [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I am taking the liberty of sending you a photograph of a patch of purple Saxifrage (S. oppositifolia), which is at present in full bloom on my rockery, and has been much admired. I have seen this species growing on alpine rocks in many of our Highland mountains, adorning the crags of the Like District hills, and also the summit of one of our Yorkshire Fells, but have had the greatest dilKculty in establish- ing it on my rockery. I am glad to say, and I think you will agree with me, that the enclosed photograph represents a very well-grown speci- men. S. opposilifolia has a habit of decaying off in a most disappointing way, and when ' once the decay sets in it is impossible to stop it without taking up the whole plant, selecting the living pieces and replanting them in a compost of silver sand (gritty), leaf-mould, and fibrous loam, dibbling them into the compost almost out of sight. In this way I have succeeded in keeping my plants in good health. It prefers a south-west aspect, and when in full flower, directly after the disappearance of the winter snow, forms a lovely picture in the alpine garden. I have seen patches yards in extent on the summits of some of the Pyrenean peaks, where it attains a size and brilliancy, perhaps, unattain- able in this country ; but, nevertheless, our British species is not to be despised, as it openi its cheery ruby buds through the melting patche>f of April snow on the rocky crags of our native hills. Allan Hah.. Southfields, Sowerby, Thirsk. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. HARDY CYCLAMENS. CE Mr. Peter Barr, I have followed with great interest the articles on the hardy Cyclamens, and I hope to hear by and by the results of the experi- mental plantings Jtr. Barr is going to make at Kirn. With some of the species I have every confidence that he will succeed ; but with others I fear he will have less success to record, mild as is the climate there. I have tried all those mentioned by Mr. Barr in my garden here, and I can safely say that the most reliable are C. Coum and C. neapolitanum, the latter being the best of all. Although further south than Kirn, the climate here is not quite so mild, but I anticipate the experience will be much the same. C. cilieicuni I have from imported corms, and, although a few of these have perished, the others seem to have become established in light soil and broken mortar io a shady position under a good-sized tree of Prunus Pissardi. The leaves are small, but prettily silvered, while the flowers, not so free as on some others, are a fair size. C. libanoticum, although a fine species, and apparently hardy here through two winters, does not appeal so much to me as the smaller-flowered C. Coum, which I have had for a number of years. Its leaves are apt to suffer from wind, and if these go off prematurely the corm suffers. C. europaiam I grew in a shady and dry position for three or four years. It, however, lost its leaves during one of the storms to which we are subject, and was eventually lost. It is, however, well known to be troublesome in our climate. C. Coum is very satisfactory in shade and in light soil mixed with old broken mortar. It seems to like this, and is the earliest to bloom here. C. ibericum and the Atkinsi varieties have lived for some years and then died off, just when one was prepared to look upon them as quite at home. 1 do not despair of eventually establishing them. C. neapolitanum is the bast of the lot, and never fails one here in the same soil as C. Coum. C. africanum has very handsome leaves, and it passed through at least three winters with me at the base of a Lilac tree and in almost full shade. It is well worth trying, if only for its exquisite foliage. C. repandum I have not jet succeeded in establishing permanently, although I do not despair of success with a little protection in early spring. C. latifolium I have not tried, but I flowered a very small and dainty little one called C. alpinum for some years. With regard to the soil and position they require, I do not think they like what is called "a fairly moist soil." They certainly like shade and plentiful oooasional soakiiigs of water in dry weather in spring and summer, but they must have the freest draijjftge, April 22, 1905.] THE GARDEN, 237 and the use of old mortar helps them immensely. For brief directions nothing can be better than those embodied in Messrs. Barr and Son's cata- logue of hardy perennials, and I can entirely agree with them from actual experience of these flowers for a number of years. It always seems to me, however, that shelter from wind ought to be strongly insisted on, as I have seen the leaves twisted and blown ofl with apparently disastrous effects. The late Rev. C. WoUey-Dod years ago gave me much information about them — information which experience shows to have been correct. ..J S. Arnott. THE FRUIT GARDEN. SAXIFEAGA FERDINANDI-COBURGI. A VERY pretty Saxifrage that should be in every collpction is in flower in these gardens on the rockery — Saxifraga Ferdinand! -Coburgi. It was obtained from Sandermann of Bavaria, and is beautiful both in foliage and flower. The flowers are borne on spikes about "2 inches or 3 inches high ; the buds are of a reddish hue, opening a pure bright yellow. The foliage is very silvery. It is easily propagated under a hand - light in a sandy mixture. H. Eavis. Hindhead, Surrey. [This charming liitle species is an introduction of recent years. It comes from Macedonia, and is found at high elevations growing in rocky fissures, forming neat tufts of some- what silvery foliage, not unlike in general appearance the well known S. aretioides. It has, however, rather narrower and longer leaves, and is much more vigorous in habit, and is easily propagated by division or cuttings. Although yellow - flowered species are well represented amongst the early- blooming Saxifragas, this plant is quite distinct from any other, and well worth a place in the rock garden, where it flourishes in a sunny position planted in stony soil. It begins to flower during the early part of March with rich yellow flowers on stems about 2 inches high, succeeding buds which are suflused with red. — Ed.] SAXIFRAGA ELIZABETHS. This early-flowering Saxifrage is blooming freely this season, and is proving, as one expected from its behaviour in the past, a great acqui- sition to our gardens in the earliest months. It has been said to resemble S. burseriana in its general habit, a description one cannot quarrel with, but it has yellow instead of white flowers, while the general aspect of the neat-habited plant is not at all the same even when out of flower. It may well be grown by those who cannot grow S. Boj'dii well, as it seems much freer than that most beautiful Saxifrage, which, however, seems to do much better with us in the North than in the South. It is a choice plant for the rock garden, alpine house, or frame, and under glass its flowers look clearer than outdoors. With me it has been cultivated in the open in two positions. In one it receives only partial sun, from about 11a.m. to 1 p.m., and is then almost shaded. In another it has sun for the greater part of the day, and is in a drier place than the former plants. Those which only receive the sun for about two hours flower the most freely, and I think it rather objects to much drought at the roots. The many who admire the choicest Saxifragas should include S. Elizabethse in their collections. S. Arnott. Carsethom, by Dumfries, Scotland. LATE PEARS. WITH reference to late Pears, the belief was general at one time, and is more or less so still amongst gardeners, that to grow late varieties of Pears successfully the assistance of expensively built walls was an absolute necessity. It may not be amiss to recall the names of the varieties already mentioned in The Garden as succeeding well under the ordinary conditions as bushes or pyramids : Beurre de .Jonghe, Bdurrc Ranee (see illustration), Le Lectier, Bergaraotte Esperen, Dana's Hovey, Docteur Joubert, Eister BeurriJ, and Doyenne Alenyon, the latter, and also Bergamotte Esperen, succeeding well as standards in the orchard. Pear Passe Crassane. — As a variety ripe in lite spring this is indispensable, and should be included in every collection. It succeeds well as Intending planters of this Pear should be careful when ordering trees to stipulate that the true sort is supplied to them. JJurheise de Jiordiaiix. — Although this variety has received the first-class certificate of the Royal Horticultural Society, I must say that with us it has been a disappointment and a complete failure as regards quality and flavour. It will keep any length of time, but instead of ripening up mellow and sweet it shrivels and dries most disappointingly. The same remarks apply to Anna Nelis, which from its many points of resemblance must I think be one of the parents of the above. ■Jo' seeds in each pot slightly apart, so that the weakest inay be drawn out without disturbance to the remaining plant later on. Ling Green and Long White are free fruiting and reliable sorts. Cabba,ge plants should be earthed up, but before doing so stir the surface beiween the rows with a Dutch hoe, or with a digging fork if the ground is very hard. Eirly Peas should be earthed up and staked. If the mould is made fine before being drawn up it will tend to keep back slugs. A few twig^ are also put in to aflforcl shelter and act as a training medium foi- the Peas until they reach the stakes. The Pea is such an important crop that too much care cannot be given to it. It well, repays the most careful attention. J. JEMKBY. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Eirimdbright. 1242 THE GAEDEN. [April- 22, 1905. THE KITCIHEN GARDEN. KEEPING ONIONS. DURING the present spring it has been , demonstrated that ripening of the I bulbs has more to do with keeping f qualities of Onions than have varie- ties. Last summer was by no means an exceptionally good time for Onions, yet in almost every direction they were well finished. Bulbs sent me from various sources have kept wonderfully, and some very fine ones of Ailsa Craig, planted recently, were then very hard, and showed not the least evidence of softening. It is interesting to note that plants raised from seed under glass and planted out in good ground in the spring have given much finer a:id harder bulbs than those from outdoor-sown breadths. The raising under glass and planting out when the plants have become hardened enable them to escape harm from the maggot and give them a longer season to mature. Formerly there was a good deal of prejudice against large bulbs thus produced, as they were regarded as soft, watery, and non-keeping. That opinion, with better knowledge, does not now prevail. The practice of giving the Onion plants liberal soakings of liquid manure to force huge bulbs to be created is less now, and growers realise that such treatment is inconsistent with securing hardness, finish, and proper ripening, yet getting great size also. At Highclere Castle, last year, Mr. W. Pope for a trial purchased seed sown in pans, raised under glass, and put out into rows 12 inches apart, no less than some thirty varieties, or so-called varieties. These plants were 6 inches apart in the rows. The product was a splendid crop of about 8oz. bulbs, and, to the acre, certainly a total produce of not less than twenty tons. Nearly all these bulbs kept well. Were the plan adopted on good, well- manured soil to the extent of several acres the bulb produce would be enormous, and could be sold at a profit far cheaper than Normandy or Egyptian bulbs. I have just seen a fine hard, clean, mature sample of Ailsa Craig grown by Mr. Barkinshaw at Chedington Court, Dorset, who raised the plants under glass, but did not use either liquid or artificial manure dressings. The bulbs are as solid and fresh as well as any could be. A. D. THE BEST SIX PEAS. The article on page 141 gives a selection of some twenty varieties of Peas. That is too many to be of help to the amateur who wants only a few, and those of the best. Having recently to give a lecture on edible Peas I thought interest would attach to what I regarded as the best half-dozen varieties for successional purposes if I invited the co-operation of a few leading growers and exhibitors to furnish in each case the names of six varieties. Each one kindly responded, and when I mention that the lists that came to hand were those of Messrs. E. Beckett, .J. Gibson, W. Pope, J. Bowerman, W. Fyfe, and A. Ward, it will be admitted that these gardeners are first- class ones. With my own list previously pre- pared the following represented the number of votes given to each variety : Sutton's Early Giant and Veitch's Autocrat, 7 each, the best first early and the best late ; The Gladstone, 5 ; Edwin Beckett, Centenary, and Criterion, 3 each ; Alderman, Duke of Albanj', Prizewinner, and Senator, 2 each ; and Peerless, Eureka, Prestige, Exonian, Acme, and Duchess of York, 1 vote each. Many of these varieties are not mentioned in the list published, perhaps not having been grown by the writer, but it is worthy of note that almost every one has at one time or another taken honours at Chiswick. I expected that so good a Pea as Thomas Laxton would have been included in one list at least, but, whilst a good cropper, the pods have not that fine appearance seen in most of the varieties named. There are in Peas now some indispensable requirements. Pods must be long, well filled, with the enclosed Peas of a good green hue, and be so formed as to open freely in the shelling process. Some pods of still largely-grown varieties have a puffed appearance, and when pressed on the upper edge to shell do not open, but simply break, making the work of shelling difficult. It is worthy of nole that whilst most of the varieties named have fine handsome pods, they are heavy croppers, and naturally make a good succession. A. D. A EED-FOLIAGED TURNIP-ROOTED BEET. It is said that a Turnip-rooted Beet may be looked for in the coming season having a top as red in tint as Dell's or the Middleton Park Favourite Beets. One of the best of the Turnip- rooted Beets is Sutton's Green Globe, but though it has a green top it is of excellent shape, early, and the flesh of fine colour ; it is excellent for early uses and for exhibition. Great things have been predicted of some of the new American Turnip-rooted Beets, but so far as they have been tested in this country they do not show any advance upon our home-raised varieties either for earliness, colour, or shape. Turnip-rooted Beets are excellent for sowing on stiff and heavy soils, as they form their bulbs upon the surface. Many of the allotment holders who exhibit vege- tables eaily in .July depend upon the Turnip rooted Beet rather than the long varieties. R. D. of the handsomest on record, with well-propor- tioned flowers of great substance ; sepals and petals are deeply suffused with rose-purple, the sepals to the greater extent, and in addition bear a number of large, nearly confluent chocolate- red spots confined to the basal halves ; the petals are similarly marked, but their basal areas are soft white, and the spots are more sparsely distributed. Both sepals and petals are bordered with an undulating margin of glistening golden yellow. The fringed labellum is of a light prim- rose-yellow, deepened to old gold on the crest and base, and is adorned by a central deep reddish conspicuous blotch. The plant is decidedly an acquisition to any collection. Argutus. NSECT PESTS. D CHOICE CABBAGE LETTUCES. Among the newer varieties I saw growing last summer was Johnson's Eclipse, early, compact, self-folding, and in colour intermediate between green and white, a variety which supplies a good deal of crisp, succulent food. Daniel's Con- tinuity is well named, as it maybe said of it that it stands for a considerable time without bolting ; it is a compact growing variety, colour, green tinted with brown ; actually in the case of a true stock the hearts appear to rot before they will bolt to seed. Wonderful is a selection from the Old Neapolitan, dwarf, early, all heart. In appearance it seems to differ very little from the Neapolitan when represented by a good stock. Iceberg is a large, compact, rough, crisp-leaved Lettuce, scarcely a desirable type. Buttercup, as its name implies, is a yellow-leaved Lettuce, and however good it may be in quality, it must be admitted its colour is rather against it. Sutton's Favourite is a large crisp-leaved Lettuce, which imparts to it a rough appearance. In this country the Cos type of Lettuce appears to be preferred to the Cabbage shape, the preference being one of old growth ; but the solid white hearts of several of the Cabbage varieties are excellent for salad purposes. In France, Ger- many, and America the Cabbage type is un- doubtedly preferred, and the great portion of the novelties issued from these countries are Cabbage Lettuces. In this country the Cabbage type has become much more popular than it formerly was. Cabbage seeds are white and black in colour according to the variety ; one or two varieties have yellow seeds. R. D. ORCHIDS. ODONTOGLOSSUM RUCKERIANUM. LAYCOCK'S VARIETY. N March last this flowered in the collection of Captain Laycock, Wiseton, Bawtry, Notts. The typical 0. ruckerianum is distinguished from 0. andersonianum, and the numerous other forms of the natural hybrid, between 0. gloriosum and 0. cris- by the rosy shade which pervades the whole flower, more or less, and the narrow gold- tinted border to the sepals and petals. The variety distinguished by the above name is one I pum. PEACH LEAF-CURL. (EXOASCUS DEFORMANS.) ISTRIBUTION, AND PLANTS ATTACKED.— This disease, alto known as "curl" or "leaf blister," proves very injurious to peaches and nectarines during certain seasons, whilst Almond trees are also some- times attacked. Occurring in every part of the world where these trees are cultivated, it is most abundant and destructive in humid regions, although not entirely absent from districts where the air is exceptionally dry. Description, and appearance of plants infested. — The leaves and young shoots are the parts attacked by the fungus ; on rare occasions the blossom is also infected. Diseased leaves become fleshy, much puckered and twisted or curled, and grow to a larger size than usual ; the colour is at first a pale yellowish green, often becoming more or less tinged with rose colour ; finally, the upper surface of diseased leaves becomes covered with a delicate bloom, somewhat resembling that on a Plum : this represents the fruit on the fungus. Afler the fungus has formed fruit, diseased leaves fall to the ground, this usually taking place before mid- summer. Young shoots infested by the fungus become swollen and twisted or curved, and the internodes are very short ; consequently the diseased leaves usually form a tuft at the end of a stunted shoot. When a branch is once infected, the fungus continues to grow in the tissues, and passes into the new leaf-buds formed each season. The appearance or intensity of the disease, even in the case of leaf-buds originating from infected shoots, depends almost entirely on prevailing climatic conditions. During a genial spring, when growth is unchecked until ihe leaves are full grown, " curl" is practically absent ; whereas if a cold, damp period occurs while the leaves are young, the disease at once appears, and its rapid spread is much favoured by alternating short spells of warm and cold weather. Injury caused by the disease. — The injury caused by the disease consists of the dropping of the fruit at an early sta^e, and the strain on the tree due to the growth of a second crop of leaves about midsummer, this second crop usually remaining free from disease. In the case of nursery stock, consecutive attacks for three or four seasons usually kill the tree, or stunt its growth to such an extent that it is practically valueless. Sources of infection and remedial measures. — In the United States it is contended that "curl" can be held in check by spraying with a fungicide alone ; unfortunately, repeated experiments have proveil that this is not true for this country. In the case of diseased trees, all the terminal shoots bearing infected tufts of leaves should be removed and burned ; diseased fallen leaves should also be collected and destroyed. By removing the diseased shoots one source of infection, namely, that arising from the spores formed on leaves originating from these diseased shoots, is removed ; April 22, 1905.J THE GARDEN. 243 besides, there is no advantage in retaining such contorted twigs on the tree. A second source of infection depends on the presence of spores that hare paisad the winter in the angle formed between leaf-buds and the branch on which they grow, inside the bud-scales, or in minute cracks in the bark. Such spores should be destroyed by spraying with Bordeaux Mixture, spraying to commence when the buds show the very first indication of swelling. Two sprayings, at intervals of ten days, if thoroughly well done, should suffice. The leaf-buds should not be sprayed after they begin to expand, or the foliage will be destroyed or injured. The mixture should be made with 201b. of sulphate of copper and 101b. of lime to 100 gallons of water. The sulphate of copper must be dissolved in a vessel of cold water, and the lime, which must be pure and fresh, slaked in another vessel. The contents of the two vessels should be poured together into a tub and the proper quantity of water added. Sulphate of copper solutions are pMsonous, and tubs, pails, or other vessels which have contained the mixture must not be used for other purposes. — Board o/ Agri- culture and Fisheries leaflet. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and AnB-weva.— The Editor intends to make THE Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no matterwhat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the " AnjSwers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate p<.ece of paper. Legal Points. — We are prejjared to answer questions! of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The qwMions should be as clear and explicit as possible, so that there can be no doiibt as to thi point of the qu'Stion. Answers will be found in a separate column headed *' Legal Points." Growing Tree Carnation's (if. J. H.). — As your Cirnations are still in flower they must by now begin to show signs of exhaustion, and they would undoubtedly be benefited by repotting. If carefully done, it will not be necessary to disturb the roots much, and the new pots must be at least 1 inch wider than the others, so as to allow space for the new soil. A suitable compost may be formed of four parts good fibrous loam to one part of leaf-mould, and the same amount of sand. Firm potting is very necessary. Later on, as the pots get full of roots, a very valuable stimulant is a mixture of soot and manure water allowed to stand till clear, and even then applied in a much diluted state Pruning Certain Shrubs {T. C.).— Of the different shrubs named the flowers of Cornus sibirica are small and unattractive, and play little if any part in the embellishment of the plant. It is principally grown for the winter beauty of its bright red bark, which feature is, of course, more noticeable after the leaves have fallen than it is during the summer months. For this purpose it is, when once established, cut down close to the ground early each spring, as on the young shoots the bark is much brighter than on the older branches. As your plants are standards, this cannot, of course, be done, and the only pruning necessary will be the annual thinning out of any old and exhausted shoots. As your shrubs are, however, only just planted, they should not be pruned at all this by you, is a very pretty shrub, which in August and September bears numerous spikes of white blossoms. It is known as the White Alder in the United States of America, where it grows wild, and in this country it succeeds best in a moist peaty soil, and a spot fully exposed to the sun's rays. It needs no pruning of any kind, unless it be the occasional thinning out of any weak branches that may have become crowded. Beyond an occasional shortening back of any long straggling shoots, Tamarix telrandra purpurea requires practically no pruning. The deep pink flowers with a purplish suff'usion are borne from the end of May onwards. Spiraea van Houttei, whose pure white blossoms are at their best in the month of May, should after flowering have any old and exhausted shoots cut out in order to allow the development of some young and vigorous ones. Worms on Gravel (J. A. H.). — When worms work through gravel walks it is evident that the walks are badly made. Properly a garden walk when being made should be excavated fully 6 inches deep at the sides and 8 inches deep in the middle, the centre thus forming a water furrow or drain. Into this excavation should be placed broken brick rubble, large stones, or chalk 3 inches thick at the sides and 5 inches in the centre. That being well pressed down, on it should come 2 inches of unscreened gravel, well levelled, the larger stones rammed well in, then on that an inch thickness of fine gravel, and rather thicker in the middle to round up the surface of the path. When well trodden and rolled a first-rate path is formed that remains free from puddles, weeds, or worms. You can at night, when the worms are on the surface feeding, give the walk a sprinkling of fine salt. Or j'ou can put a bushel of fresh soot into a coarse bag, tied loosely, and soak it for forty- eight hours in twenty gallons of water in a tub ; then water the paths with that late in the evening when the liquid has become quite clear. Growing Labornoms in Pots (M. J. H.). — It is now too late to lift and pot Laburnums for flowering in pots next year, and even if such was not the ease you would have to wait much longer than that for the seedlings to flower. The small specimens that may be seen flowering so freely at some of the spring shows are not seedlings, but are obtained by budding or grafting, as plants increased in this way flower naturally in a much smaller state than those raised from seed. If you wish to give your young plants a chance you may lift them next winter or very early in the spring and pot them in some good loamy soil, lightened if necessary by a little leaf-mould and sand. Then plunge them out of doors in a spot fully exposed to the sun, and keep them watered during the summer months. The check of removal and confinement in pots have a tendency to induce flowering, but in all probability you will have to wait two or three years before you have any blossoms. Aphides on Sweet Peas (Caroline Keys). — It is seldom one hears of Sweet Peas being injured by green fly in England. The climate ot the United Slates being hotter and drier in summer, would, we think, predispose the plants to the attack of these pests. The remedy which suggests itself to us would be in the provision of a cooler and partly shaded portion of the garden in which to grow them. The growth of the Sweet Pea has been brought to great perfection at the present day in England, and the best results are brought about by those possessing well-cultivated, deep, rich soil, or where the soil is naturally poor and shallow, by digging trenches 15 inches deep (where the rows are to be grown) and distant 4 feet apart, filling the bottom of the trench with well-rotted cow or horse manure to the depth of 7 inches, afterwards filling up the trenches with the best available soil in which to sow the seeds. against the attacks of the fly. By steeping the seeds in water in which sulphate of copper has been mixed (a lump the size of a Walnut in a pint of warm water), letting them stand in for half-an-hour, protects the Peas from the attacks of mildew during the following summer, and may also serve to keep the green fly at bay. In any case it is worth trying, as it will do the seeds no- harm. You can kill the green fly by spraying with paraffin emulsion, quassia extract, or soft soap insecticides, or dusting with Tobacco powder. Moss Litter Manure i-orHot-bbd (Trajford)^ No doubt the chief reason why moss litter does not give a continuous warmth in a properly made bed is the absence of straw. Although in your case some straw is used, the proportion is not stated. Moss litter is a well-dried material. Straw is also a dry material, and may be kept in. any bulk without heating, but it nevertheless seems to contain some sap, or, perhaps, is more absorbent of moisture than is the moss litter. In any case it constitutes an important element in a hot-bed, because of its more enduring proper- ties, drying or overheating less rapidly. But even a straw manure hot-bed can be made to give a fairly moderate and retentive heat only when properly prepired. The manure must be fresK from the stable, have the long straw shaken out, and the remainder well stirred and mixed, also partially moistened ; then, as soon as it heats uj> to 60° turn, and partially moisten it again, and even a third time, before it is fit to make a bedi and give off a fairly enduring heat. Various Questions (/?. M. Dunlop) — You- can obtain Webb's Senator Pea from Messrs. Webb and Sms, Wordsley, Stourbridge. Please say which Anemones you refer to, otherwise we cannot give you correct information about them. The seeds of tuberous Begonias ought to have been sown under glass in a warm house in January, you would then have had flowering; plants this year. It is now too late to expect them to flower this year ; they would, however, flower well next year. You can get Gladioli to- flower next year from seed by sowing now in a warm house. You should not have placed your Begonias and Gladioli in such a high temperature. The best time to pot Gladiolus Colvillei and its white form. The Bride (the best for forcing), is in the autumn, keeping them covered with ashes in a cold frame. When roots are formed put them in a house of the temperature of 55°. When the flower spikes appear give a slightly higher temperature. The best thing to do with yours is to inure them gradually to a lower temperature, and finally they will do well in a greenhouse. As you must know. Gladioli and tuberous Bagonias flower outdoors in summer. Lichen on Lawx (T. H. W. Thomas). —We think the cause of the recent appearance of lichen on your lawn is due to the exhaustion of the turf from frequent mowings and the absence of occasional surface dressings of manure and soil in winter to nourish the grasses. There is no time now effectively to rid the la,wn of moss and renew the grasses before it will be required to play upon. But if a dressing similar to the- one you have been recommended to make were- applied immediately the grasses would be encouraged to grow and the lichen discouraged, but we would substitute nitrate of soda for sulphate of ammonia. The dressing of soil should consist of ordinary kitchen garden soil and leaf- mould, or short, well-decajed manure in equal proportions. The soda must be ground down very small and sown broadcast over the lawn after the dressing of soil has been applied, and well worked into the dressing afterwards with a rake. The quantity of the soil dressing to be ' applied to the lawn should be at the rate of four barrowloads to the rod (30.^ square feet) and of the nitrate of soda two quarts to the rod. A dry day should be chosen to carry out this work, Treated in this way the Peas would grow freely [and after the raking is finished the lawn should year. Clethra alnifolia, not prutiifolia as written I and strong, and, we think, would be proof [ be well rolled. 244 THE GARDEN. 'April 22, 1905. Pekbnniai-s I'OK Garden {Ajax).—'No, it is ■not too late if you plant the perennials at once. To cover the arches, plant Clematis Jackmani, Dutch Honeysuckle, Ptoses Crimson Rambler, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Longworth Rambler, Djrothy Perkins, Aimee Vibert, Reine Marie Henriette, or Gloire de Dijon. Rose Reine Marie Henriette, Gloire de Dijon, Dutch Honey- suckle, or Clematis would do against the walls. Showy perennials are for the back : Helianthus Miss ' Melliah, Hollyhocks, Diblias, Helenium, Oalega, Tiger Lilies, Pyrethrum uliginosum, and Michaelmas Daisies. Towards the front plant "Oampanula persicifolia. Lobelia Qaeen Victoria, '■German Irises, Pyrelhrums, Japanese Anemone, Montbretia, Lilium croceum, Carnations, Violas, ■and many others. You can plant cordon trees of 'Apples and Pears against the wall, or the Loganberry or Wineberry (climbing fruits) might suit you. Sphagnum (/. ■§. L.). — The moss sent is sphagnum, and is suitable for use in Orchid culture. We would not call it a good sample, on account of its length and small heads ; it is the sort usually found growing in the low-lying lands, and we would give preference to the shorter- growing, big-headed sort generally found on higher ground. Still much worse samples are used, and we would recommend in gathering to pick it as short as possible, otherwise remove some of the tail ends. Another drawback to this sort is, in places where good water is used, it will often grow so freely that in a degree it smothers the basal eye of the Orchid, and causes it to become weak from the lack of light, so in •u^ing it for surfacing it should be cut up very flmall. Melon Plants Scorched {H. Fowler). — When the Melon plants are 0 inches high the leaves are naturally very tender, and a temperature of 90°, without any air and the sun shining on the glass, would undoubtedly scorch them. When young and recently planted they should be shaded from -the sun. Even without sun-heat a dry, arid atmosphere with a temperature of 90° would probably scorch them. The same temperature without sun-heat and with plenty of moisture would not scorch them. A strong bottom-heat would scorch them. We suppose the roots have ■not been injured in this way V Belladonna Lilies (F. Jpnkim).—'We have never met with a parallel case to yours, but frhould without hesitation say that the curious behaviour of 3'our Belladonna Lilies is caused by a severe check just as the flower spikes were ■developing. Possibly it was frost which de- stroyed the embryo blossoms, but the lowermost portion of the flower stems being deeper seated did not suffer to the same extent, and having now lengthened have pushed the uppermost and life- less part above the surface of the soil. Plants for Tncs (D. W. X>.).— We would certainly plant 6owering subjects in preference to shrubs, and there are several of importance well suited to tub gardening. Unfortunately, jou have given us no idea as to whether you have the convenience for growing on such plants as Fuchsias, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, or the white and yellow Marguerites. If you wish for a plant of some hardiness, why not try the early- flowering Chrysanthemums, such as Horace Martin, Marie Masse, and others, or these in ■conjunction with Aster Amellus, A. bessara- bicus, &c. ? By planting about six plants of each ■of these a fine show would result, or you could try Aster cordifolius elegans, using not more than three plants. The plants, of course, wou.d require attention in watering, and would be very efl'ective at flowering time. Lilium speciosum rubrum would make a most effective display if about one dozen good bulbs were planted in each iub. Suppose, for instance, you planted two ubs with these Lilies, two with Aster cordi- "*lius elegans, two with Aster Amellus, and two ■*ho the Chrysanthemums named. These would be most efl'ective when in tlower and a little unusual. Of course, one of the finest plants for tub gardening is the blue African Lily Agapan- ihus umbellatus, and this, if well cared for, is most effective in August and September when in bloom. If, however, you have made up j'our mind for shrubs, we would suggest variegated Euonymus or Box, with green and variegated Hollies, Yucca recurva, and Y. gloriosa. These would not require any winter protection. The Agapanthus would require winter protection, and the same remark applies to green or varie- gated Agaves if used for this purpose. Roses (M. L. Firmingtr). — The long shoots made by the Crimson Rambler Rose should be left almost their full length, just cutting off the unripe ends. Flowers are produced along them the next season (that is to say, flowers develop this year upon growths made last year). D )not, however, let them become crowded ; when you find it necessary to remove any shoots cut out one or two of the oldest. Keep the bush Rose well thinned out in the middle, so that light and air may penetrate. If it is newly planted cut the shoots to within 2 inches or 3 inches of the ground ; if already established, cut them back moderately, thinning out in the centre. The name of the plant yon enclose is Euonymus japonieus albo-marginatis. There are several other ornamental varieties. Cantaloupe Melon Plants (P/i/»!/o?i S.]V.). Our experience of growing Cantaloupe Melons in England has been that they succeed much better when grown in cold frames, with a manure bed added to give a little bottom-heat to start them in, than when subjected to the greater heat necessary to grow the ordinary sorts. If our correspondent will adopt this method we think he will have no difficulty in succeeding with the Cantaloupe. Grown in this way we find the flavour is much better than in the imported varieties. The sample plant sent shows traces of having been infested with red spider, and this, with too high a temperature, would at least partly account for its unsatisfactory condition. Seedling Plants Damping ( IF. W.). — Various causes may have operated to cause your seedling plants to damp off. The soil in your boxes may not have been sweet or properly drained, hence became close and wet ; but there is a great possibility that if the heat in your hot-water propaeator ranged from 00° to 65°, the tempera- ture of the room in which the propagator stood was some 15° lower, and that would be injurious to tender seedlings. Covering up with glass would have been good practice as soon as the seed was sown, but it should have been taken off as soon as growth began. Putting it on as you did after growth would greatly weaken plants by excluding light and causing moisture to congre- gate, and thus lead to damping. A heated propagator should be in a greenhouse, and even then have a glass covering a few inches above the seedlings, and which would enable air to be given. A room is a very unfit place for seedling raising, as the little plants want all the light possible to strengthen them. The lack of suth- cient light falling direct on the plants would cause them to become drawn and weaken, and thus susceptible to damping. Pruning Potgrown Climbing Roses {T. C). We presume the plants are only young ones, seeing that they are in 10-inch pots. If this is so we should recommend j'ou to cut back to the soil one of the oldest growths and retain the others their full length. Any lateral shoots, especially those that have blossomed, cut back to about two eyes from their base. Keep the plant of Gloire de Dijon that has blossomed on the dry side for a week or two, and then repot should the plant need it, but if it was potted last autumn this will not now be necessary. When repotting use compost as follows : Loam two parts, old hot-bed manure one part, and a 5-inch potfulof bone-meal to each barrowload of compost. Pot very firm. Keep the house close and afford plenty of atmospheric moisture on fine days. As plants finish the second growth gradually harden the wood, and then place the plants outdoors for the remainder of summer and autumn. The W. A. Richardson treat in the same way after it has flowered, and the Reine Marie Henriette should have its laterals shortened now and be treated in the same manner as Gloire de Dijon. Bordeaux MiiXtkre (AT. ifcD). — A good recipe for the making of Bordeaux mixture is lib. of copper sulphate (bluestone), lib. of lime, lib. of coarse treacle or soft soap, and ten gallons of water. Crueh up the bluestone and dissolve in ten gallons of water in a large wooden tub. Dissolve the lime in a gallon of water, and the soap or treacle in sufficient hot water ; then mix the whole. When well settled and quite clear it is ready for use. Keep any left in the tub covered with a lid or with something lightly tied over it. With Potatoes, either have a knapsack sprayer, to carry on a man's back, or else use an Abol syringe. Apply once from the middle to end of July, and again three weeks later. A third may even be given rather later, if desired. Of course, it is easy to make fresh mixtures so soon as the one brew is exhausted. With Holly- hocks spray whilst the leaves are few and young, continuing to do so once in three weeks. Lilium eandidum may be sprayed once a month, begin- ning at once before the leaves seem attacked. Begonia Cpltcre (Reader). — As the plants show signs ol exhaustion after flowering, keep them rather drier at the roots in a house of the minimum temperature of 55°. As the days lengthen a warmer temperature of 60" to 05* is better ; in this the plants, which must be shortened back previously, will push forth }'oung shoots from the base. These may be taken off and inserted as cuttings. They form the only suitable cuttings ; shoots from the flowering stems are useless. When rooted take out of the propagating case into a cooler temperature, say, of 65°. Pot into 3 inch pots in a soil of loam and leaf -soil, and some sand. When well rooted pot them into 5-inch pots, and there they will flower next autumn and winter. A minimum temperature of 55° is essential. If you do not want to root cuttings leave the young shoots to grow, cutting the old stems to within a few inches of the soil. Take care not to cut off an}' young shoots at the base. When the j'oung shoots are an inch or so long, turn the plant out of the pot, shake away a good deal of the old soil, and repot in soil com- posed of two parts loam, one of leaf-soil, and one decayed manure, with some sand intermixed. Give them a minimum temperature of 50*^ throughout the summer, and attend carefully to watering : in autumn the temperature must be at least 55°. Give weak manure water when the pots are full of roots. Na.mks of Plants.— ir. J. Watcrlnm.'^c.—n, Osniaiitluia A, St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on the evening of the 4th inst., when there was a gooa attendance of members, presided over by Mr. J. W. M'Hattie. In addition to several interesting exhibits, an admirable paper on " Garden Coniferre" was read by Mr. David S. Fish, of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. Mr. Fish's paper dealt with the characteristic features of the Cjniferie in their nature, foliage, and growth, while many other points of importance in their structure and cultivation were touched upon. Its value was much enhanced by a number of fine limelight illustrations. Mr. Fish was accorded a hearty vote of thanks on the motion of the chairman. SHEFFIELD HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The monthly meeting of this society was well attended, though the wintry weather had the effect of keeping many away, snow fallinir during the evening. An essay by Mr. G. Hoyland on "The Culture of the Primula" was illustrated by some splendid specimens of Clibrans' strain of Primula sinensis, which were remarkable for the immense quantity (»f bloom. There were some good specimens uf Cineraria exhibited in competition for the monthly prizes (professional), and Hyacinths by amateurs. The secretary also offers a medal, the competition for which is by points, and this, as usual, brought several exhibits. There are also several special prizes to be com- peted f'T which will make the season a very interesting one. The schedule for the annual show has been Issued, and a special excursion in cunne.vion with the society will be run to the great Shrewsbury show at the low fare of 6i., including admission. The secretary has arranged to organise a meeting in Sheffield on the 2&th inst., when delegates will attend to explain the objects of the British Gardeners' Association, and it is hoped to secure a large gathering. All gardeners will be welcomed, and if nut notified should cummunicate with Mr. LewendoD, the secretary of the Shethild society. CROYDON HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The subject arranged for Tuesday, the 4th inst., was " Hardy Herbaceous Plants," and in the able hands of Mr. E. H. Jenkins, Queen's Road Nursery, Hampton Hill, who is known to be an expert in this branch of horticul- ture, needless to say it received quite excellent treatment. His experience is <;ained from many years' close study of these plants, so that his remarks were commendable to all who desired to profit by knowledge gained by culture of the subjects under notice. Since 1S70, when the revival of hardy plant culture set in, the vast strides this depart- ment has made in the embellishment of our gardens is too well known to need comment. In commencing his paper he alluded to the Iris in all its varieties, and this plant will furnish us with bloom from January to June, making excellent decoration for cool greenhouses in the early mouths, until the warmer months of April, May, and June, when with the suitable varieties we can look to the outside borders for our requirements. Among other hardy tlowers under notice were the Picinies, which should find a place in all gardens, for their magniticent colour and character of bloom are surely enough to recommend them. The best time to remove them is in August, for then the main or tap-root will not be disturbed to injure the plant, as it would be if they were moved in early spring. The Hellebores, Phloxes, Michaelmas Daisies, Pyrethrums, Delphiniums, and Lathyrus were, among others, amply described. In each variety he advised the situation found most suitable for their reception and the time of year and method for propagation. In the discussion foUowimr many questions were asked of the lecturer, and in his subsequent remarks cultural points were described, whicli should prove beneficial to the members present. At the 246 THE GARDEN. [April 22, 1905 conclusion of ne paper a very hearty vote of thanks was uonveyeii to Mr. Jenkins, who suitably replied. Mr. J. Gregory had an interesting exhibit, staging rare specimens of Colonial fruits, including Limes, Citrons, and Bananas, also Oranges and Lemons grown in this country. The meeting's vote of thanks was accorded hira. UNITED HORTICTLTURAL BENEFIT SOCIETY. This society having removed from the Caledonian Hotel, held its monthly committee meeting on the 10th inst. at its new headquarters, the Royal Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster, S.W. Mr. Charles H. Curtis presided. Eleven new members were elected, making an addition of seventy-four since January last. Sixteen were reported on the sick fund at the present time. The amount of sick pay for the month was £40 Ts. Two members were allowed to transfer from the lower to the higher scale. The quinquennial valuation of the society will be placed in the hands of Mr. Thomas G. Acklaud. The usual quarterly grants from the benevulent fund were passed. The committee hope that the removal of its headquarters to the Hoyal Horticultural Hall will be an incentive for many young gardeners to join the ranks of the L'nited. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIET\^ Floral Committee : April ll. The Rev G. H. Eugleheart, Dinton, Salisbury, showed Narcissi Will Scarlett, very tine; Scarletta, very fine; Chaucer poeticus, Firebrand, Vulcan, Hector, a fine bicolor, and Virgil poeticus. There were many good seedlings in this lob. Charlemagne, of Sir Watkin character, was very good. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, had a choice assortment of Daffodils, such as Big Ben, Peter Birr, Yellow Queen, Mikado, Isolde, Chas. H. Curtis (yellow Ajax), Weardale Perfection, Peach, Ariadne (in the way of Minnie Hums), Henri Vilmorin, and others, in addition to a large general assortment of good kinds. Some choice Auriculas were shown by Mr. James Douglas, Bookham, three of these gaining an award of merit. Firefly is a very fine alpine. Dinham, green- edged, and Oiympus, green-edged, were among the more conspicuous. New Plants. Corydalis Wilsoni.—A showy species from Central China, with golden yellow flowers and thick glaucous foliage. It is obviously a most profuse bloomer. From Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. Award of merit. Carnation Harlou-arden.—A tree variety, with large and handsome crimsun-maroou flowers. It is probably the largest in this shade of colour. From Mr. A. F. Button, Ivor. Bucks. Award of merit. Auricula Daffodil.— A. fine bright yellow self, with well- defined paste. A. Favourite.— A strong-growing alpine, with purple- violet flowers and white centre. A. Standard Bearer.— A large-flowered alpine purple shaded lilac and white centre ; very handsome. The Hbove were exhibited by Mr. James Douglas, Bjokham, Surrey, and each received the award of merit. New Narcissi. Narcissus Alice Knights.— A white Ajax variety, in the trumpet of which there is a slight buff tone. P'rom Messrs. Birr and Sons, Covent Garden. Award of merit. S'. Lord Kitchener.— XiTluaUy a. bicolor Sir Watkin, the beautifully refined flower varying in the colour of the crown from lemon to pale sulphur. A very charming flower. P'rom Mrs. Backhouse, Sutton Court, Hereford. Award of merit. N. Kiwj's Norton. — A giant yellow Ajax kind, the huge trumpet and fine perianch of a rich golden yellow. It is a giant in every way. From filessrs. Pope and Son, King's Norton, Birmingham. First-class certificate. A silver Banksian medal was awarded to the Potato Syon H.iuse Prolific, finely shown by Mr. J. B. Joel, Northaw House, Putter's Bar. A cultural commendation was given to Mr. Dover, Langley Fruit Gardens, Bucks, for an excellent lot of Strawberry Royal Suvereign. PLYMOUTH DAFFODIL SHOW. On the 11th inst. the second annual show of the Devon iiafforiil and Spring F'luwer Society was opened in the Plymouth Guildhall. The show was divided into twn feections, one open to all comers, and the other confined to residents in the county of Devon. Ample evidence was afforded that the endeavours of the committee Uj popu- larise the cultivation of the Narcissus in the county had been attended by success, lU'l entries being staged by residents in Devon in the classes devoted to that flower, while for ihe premier county class, for fifteen varieties of Narcissus, twelve very good stands competed. The class for twenty varieties of hard wooded flowering shrubs grown in the open air was the best ever seen in the south- west, where alone such a display early in April would be possible, all the eight exhibits beingfully worthy of prizes. The flrst-piiee stand for twelve varieties of hardy spring fiowers in the open section was of great excellence. Prizi-: List. Forty varieties of DT FERN. The illustration shows the Stag's-Horn Fern referred to in The Garden of the loch inst. It has been reproduced from a photograph sent by Dr. Alfred Marcus of Dasseldorf. BULLFINCHES IN THE GARDEN. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Surrounded as we are by old and very dense Yew hedges, we are greatly frequented by all sorts of birds, and the fight with these pretty little marauders goes on unceasingly all the spring and summer. Last year the whole of our prospective Gooseberry crop was destroyed by bullfinches, the trees being reduced to bare skeletons during our absence from the garden in February. This year we netted the bushes directly the buds began to appear, and now the humming of bees in the plentiful blossom gives us com- fortable assurance that we have won a bloodless victory. Your correspondent says rightly. Why kill the bullfinches if it can be avoided 1 These pretty birds are of market value alive, and are perfectly happy in captivity. A friend of mine tamed one from the nest, and actually taught it to speak, insomuch that it says quite distinctly, "Dear little bird." Alas! improvident slaughter is the craze of the uneducated gardener. It has ROUND ABOUT A GARDEN. Town and Country Flower-beds. NOW is especially the time when many men's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of gardening, no matter how few may be the square feet of ground which they can call their own. And very surprising sometimes is the contrast of results which different men achieve. Often you may hear a dweller in some city suburb, where, in spite of the thought and money which he expends upon his garden, he always misses success, wonder how it is that cottagers manage to make their little plots so beautiful ; and real gardens in the real country make him sigh with envy. In the end he usually decides that the shortcomings of his own garden are the result of foggy and smoky air from the neighbouring wilderness of bricks and mortar, and that it is useless to expect things to " thrive " with him as they do iu the country. The Fault of the Cat. There is something in this of course ; but other reasons contribute mainly, I think, to the non-success of most little gardens in towns and populous suburbs. The first place among causes of trouble I should give to the cat. This engaging animal simply swarms in every suburb ; and, though you can always see the direct injury which it does to flower- beds, its real mischief lies deeper. Where cats are numerous, useful birds, especially blackbirds, are scarce. It is true that in the country you may have more blackbirds about the place than will be good for the fruit crop ; but in the neighbourhood of towns it is for want of blackbirds that slugs abound, often to such an extent that, unless you are per- petually providing soot, or other defences, the majority of the plants and seedlings are eaten down each night level with the ground. The result is that everything makes a bad start, if it starts at all, and never reaches the healthy, vigorous state which makes the April 29, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 253 contents of country flower-beds look as if they belonged by nature to the ground in which they grow. The Blackbird's Difficulty. And if we may attribute the multiplicity of slugs in suburban gardens to the scarcity of blackbirds, we may surely lay this at the door of the cat. For the blackbird is a home- loving bird, only wandering afield in autumn and winter, and feeding always in spring and summer, when the slugs are active, in the vicinity of his home. But it is not possible for a blackbird to make his home in a garden which is infested with cats. His chattering alarm note, which may serve a useful end in the country, has the effect, in a suburb, of attracting the attention of all the cats in all the adjoining gardens ; and, apart from the initial difficulty of finding a suitable site for so large a nest in small suburban gardens, where people are constantly passing near, the blackbird has small chance of rearing a brood. Either he or his mate will almost certainly fall a victim to some cat before the eggs are hatched. Slugs and Snails. If people realised how much the absence of slug-eating birds from a garden means, all who wish for a healthy, vigorous garden, in spite of the vicinity of bricks and mortar, would give their first and best thoughts, not to what they are going to " put into it " in the way of new plants, but what they can drive out of it from the battalions of slugs which lie hidden by day but march forth in parade order to devastate the ground every night. The relation of thrushes to snails is much the same as that of blackbirds to the slugs. Indeed, country gardeners regard the thrush with the greater favour, because it sticks to a snail diet as much as possible even in fruit time ; but in a small town garden the snails, though numerous enough— for the same reason that the slugs abound, i.e., the cat — are comparatively easily discovered and dealt with. And although the too common method of disposing of snails lead." to little more than a brisk in- terchange of molluscs between neighbours " over the wall," one feels less the palpable injury done by an enemy that you can see and hit with the back of a spade, than that of the invisible despoiler who often leaves you wondering when your seedlings are going to come up, while he is quietly eating them down every night under coverof darkness. An Injurious Advantage. An almost more potent reason for the comparative failure of those small, suburban gardens, in which the owner takes an active personal interest, is one which at first sight might appear to be an advantage, namely, the facilities which he gnjojrs for purchasing plants for the garden at his own gate. In the country you increase your stock chiefly through the generosity of neighbours — to whom, of course, you are generous in return — who give you roots, cuttings, or seeds from their gardens. Thus the circle of choice is limited, and in most cases the varieties are old-fashioned. To the town dweller, on the other hand, there comes every day in spring, but especially on Saturday, a procession of barrows laden with boxes of seedlings and plants in pots, all apparently in the pink of condition and carefully selected, as being just the sort of plants which are likely to tempt his fancy. Too often these have merely been " forced " for sale at this par- ticular stage of their growth, and, when planted out, they suffer a shock of changed conditions from which they never completely recover. The Swindler at the Gate. Worse still, of course, are the deliberate swindles which itinerant vendors perpetrate upon_ the inexpert suburbanite. On one occasion last year I chanced to be visiting a house in a London suburb when a man arrived with Fuchsias in bloom for sale, everyone of which, he volubly asserted, had come straight from the Crystal Palace, where they had just taken the first prize ! Apart from this transparent lie, the plants were almost worth the small sum asked for them, so that little harm would have been done. On a second occasion, however, at the same house, I was consulted as to the purchase of some scores of " rooted Chrysanthemum cuttings," which a man was offering at the gate ; and these proved to be only rooted pieces of Mugwort collected under some hedge. They somewhat closely resemble cuttings of the Chrysanthemum, and 1 have little doubt that this man always succeeds in selling thousands of the worthless weeds during his " Chrysan- themum " season. On a third occasion at the same house I was shown a dozen large and healthy Eose trees, carefully twisted with bast and labelled "Gloire de Dijon," "Crimson Rambler," "YellowRambler," " W. A. Richard- son, " andso on. The man who sold them had told a long story of woe to account for the low price which he was willing to accept ; and, of course, they were only the commonest of half-wild Roses, probably dug up from some abandoned garden and fit only for the rubbish-heap. A Remedy Required. There are so many honest men who might make a living by hawking plants, that they, as well as the public, should be better pro- tected than they are now from this swindling competition. When, as in two at least of these cases, the things offered for sale afforded in themselves conclusive evidence of fraud, the police should be able to take action on the complaint of a householder ; whereas, now it is of no use to inform the police unless you are prepared to attend at the court as a complainant. This, very few have the public spirit to do ; nor should it be required. Perhaps the best solution would be to compel all hawkers to take out licenses for the sale only of goods which are fairly and truly labelled or described to the customer, and leaving power to the police to take action if the conditions should manifestly be disregarded. E. K. R. TRUajpET DAP'ODJL W}IITB KNIGHT. (Given an aicard 07 merit at the Midlajid Dajodil Shmv, 1001,). THE FLOWER GARDEN. IN THE TI.ME OF DAFFODILS. The Season. FOR some weeks those who take a delight in these enchanting fiowfers will have their attention fully absorbed in studying their many charms. The season is an early one — this is admitted upon all sides — and as far as one is enabled to judge at this date (April i), every- thing points to a favourable season. As usual, the first flower to open in my garden was N. pallidus prsecox, and extremely well it does on the light soil here. It is always of interest to note the dates on which some of the early varieties open, and to make comparisons with former years, so I append them ; N. pallidus prae- cox, February 20, 1903; February 16, 1904 ; Feb- ruary 19, 1905. N. obvallaris (Tenby), Feb- ruary 23, 1903 ; March 24, 1904; March 12, 1905. N. King Alfred, April 12, 1904 ; March 23, 1905. Narcissus Blachvell. — This is an extremely pretty incomparabilis variety, and valuable on account of its earliness. With me Sir Watkin opened on March 27, while Blaekwell opened just three days later. The flowers are of excellent form and of lasting cha- racter. A note in Messrs. Barr's 1903 catalogue in reference to this charac- teristic says "this variety commenced flowering out of doors this season at our Ditton Hill Nurseries on March 12, and was still in beauty on April 12. In colour the perianth segments are a little lighter in shade than 254 THE GARDEN. [April 29, 1905.] those of Barri conspicuus, while the straight cup is deeply fluted and stained with orange red. It is now extremely reasonable in price, and should be acquired by those who value early flowers. JV. ^ erne. —To my mind this was one of the finest seedlings exhibited in 1904. Mr. Engle- heart has busied himself with the poeticus varieties for very many years, and only those who have watched their development know how admirably they have responded to his care and skill. Acme, an illustration of which is given, may be taken as the highest type of beauty which it i."; possible to obtain in a Poet's Narcissus. True it is that larger flowers have already been obtained and that it is quite possible for it to be surpassed even this year by a yet more striking flower, for there is no end to the new charms which await us at the hand of the hybridist. Nevertheless, many years must elapse before such an exquisite flower as this will fail to elicit admiration. Compared with such varieties as Epic, Laureate, &c., Acme is a relatively small flower, but what it lacks in size is amply compensated byits extreme refine- ment. Its chief distinction is in its vivid scarlet crown three- quarters of an inch in width. The pure white perianth segments are of ornatus character, and the whole flower is just 3 inches across. Acme was exhibited at the Midland Daffodil show last season, and received an unanimous award of merit. White Trumpet Dajfodils. — These bid fair to become so numerous as to be almost indis- tinguishable even when seen side by side. Nearly all these new varieties were raised from Mme. de Graaff, and those from Holland are probably the produce of self- fertilised flowers of this variety. Two lovely seedlings were shown by Messrs. de Graaff of Leiden at the Midland Daffodil Society's exhibition last year, i.e., .Snow Elf and White Knight, the latter of which is here illustrated. I have not seen either of them growing, so that it is impossible to compare them with existing varieties. Mme. de Graaff is a fairly free seeder, and in the next few years we are likely to see a very numerous progeny from this source. Last season, using King Alfred as the pollen parent, I got the foUowingresult from seven flowers of Mme. de Graaff : First pod, 27 seeds ; second pod, •28 seeds ; third pod, 24 seeds ; fourth pod, 23 seeds ; fifth pod, 7 seeds ; sixth pod, 3 seeds ; seventh pod, 3 seeds. The seed was harvested on June 19, and the majority of it has germinated. It would be very interesting if others would send their experiences of seeding Daffodils to The Garden. Kidderminster. Arthur R. Goodwin. [We hope Mr. Goodwin's suggestion will be heeded by our readers. At the present time the Narcissus is creating more interest than perhaps at any period of its history, and if those of our readers who have grown the plant would favour with accounts of their experience, the notes would prove of some im- portance.— Ed.] COLOURED PLATE PLATE 1273. THE OLD MUSK ROSE. (Rosa moschata nivea.) HE old Musk Rose is supposed to have been introduced nearly 300 years ago, and the kind to which I allude is possibly of garden origin. It has a vigorous climbing habit, is | smooth, very hardy, and certainly not T' see from nine to twelve fully open at one time. The flowers individually are very large, opening wide and flat. They are chiefly white, but have exquisite suffusions of pink towards the edges of the petals and a cushion of rich yellow anthers in the centre, which keep their colour while the flower lasts. The leaves have seven leaflets, are of a grey-green colour, and when young distinctly scented. The wood is chiefly but small spines are numerous fastidious, I towards the tips of the shoots. For cutting it is delightful, as the clusters have long stems, and in the house every bud opens in due course. The buds are of a lovely pink colour before they open. B. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. a, THE o NARCISSUS ACME. (This mriety obtained an award oj merit at the Midland Daff"dll Snciety's Show, 100/,.) for the plants from which I have formed my opinion of its worth are growing in bad clay soil. They efi"ectually conceal an iron fence, and are subject to some restriction, being beside a path. They send up strong shoots like Willow wands, and when in bloom this fence is quite a feature. In profusion of bloom it is marvel- lous, the flowers coming in great flat clusters of thirty or more, an4 it is not uncoromon to GHIONODOXAS. F these I consider C. sardensis the best for general eflTeot, its blue being more telling in the mass than the blue and white of C. Luciliae. For planting by the thousand on grassy banks, C. sardensis is particularly valu- able, being as decorative in such a position as the Grape Hyacinths, and considerably earlier. C. gigantea and C. AUeni appear to me to be identical, and with both I am much disappointed, as although I have now had them four years, not a single spike has produced more than three flowers, and the majority only two. In Mr. Archer-Hind's garden, where they have been almost since their first introduction, the result has been the same. C. gigantea was at first held to be merely a species of C. Lucilia;, but the former is so much weaker in growth and poorer in flower-bearing that I cannot but think it is a distinct species. With me C. Luciliie often grows nearly a foot in height, and bears twelve flowers, while C. sardensis, 2 inches shorter, has sometimes exceeded the dozen blooms. Four jears ago I planted one hundred C. gigantea among a colony of Tulipa Greigi. The first season they were very disappointing, most of them bearing only one flower. Next year they were but little better, but thinking that they might improve when established I gave them another year's trial. However, last spring but little improvement was mani- fest, only four of the plants bearing three flowers, and the remainder two and one. In the summer I took them up and planted them in another part of the garden, replanting the Tulipa Greigi bed with C. sardensis. The present effect is satisfactory, the scarlet Tulips glowing out of the blue of the Chionodoxas, many of which have six flowers, a number that will be greatly increased another year. In a former garden 0. sardensis seeded itself abundantly, self-sown seedlings springing up in number in the border and in the adjoining gravel path. S. W. FlTZHERBEBT, 5///VV ^E GARDEN. April 29th, 1905. ROSA AVOSCHATA NIVEA April 29, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 255 THE PEACH-LEAVED BELLFLOWER. (Campanula pbrsicifolia.) The various forms of the Peach-leaved Bellflower would be more popular did they possess the vigour of such kinds as C. raaorantha and C. grandis. Here and there where the soil is very good they retain their strength for some years, and seem to require no more care than the ordi- nary border kind, but in light soils which parch in hot weather they have a way of disappearing suddenly. It is most annoying to find a once flourishing colony in such a debilitated condition that the plants are only fit for the rubbish heap. As, in a general way, raising seedlings is an easy enough matter in the case of this Campanula, it is advisable to have recourse to this method of keeping up a stock of healthy plants. Several years ago I raised a _____m batch of young plants from ^^'SHM,J<^ the varieties named semi- duplex grandiflora, but which I do not think is distin- guishable from Moerheimi. They did not all exhibit the semi-double character, about 50 per cent, harking back to the old single form. I put manure or top-dressing of some kind. In some places where the drainage is not free the roots are apt to perish in a wet, very cold time. It is a good plan to takti up a plant or two after blooming, pull them to pieces, and dibble them into pots or boxes of free soil, keeping them there until the following spring. J. Cornhill. IRIS BUCHARICA. This fine bulbous Iris is probably not yet so well known or so much in cultivation as it deserves to be. Three flowers were fully expanded on the 20th ult., and thore were two more buds to follow. The pale yellow and white flowers are of considerable siz3 and deliciously sweet, division of the roots, time is required by the raiser to obtain sufficient plants to put a novelty into commerce. As the National Auricula Society retain in their schedule of prizes classes for gold- laced Polyanthus, it can be stated that the following new varieties are procurable : Black grounds — Cheshire Favourite, a variety difficult to beat when at its best ; Mrs. Brownhill (Lancashire Hero), a very useful variety ; Tiny, a refined flower when at its best ; Mrs. Thornley, a comparatively new and pleasing variety ; and Mrs. Holland, which has been distributed under the name of Mrs. Holden. Red grounds are unfortunately scarce. They are Sir Sydney Smith and Middleton Favourite, both very useful for exhibition purposes, but neither first rate. George IV. is very scarce indeed, and if a plant is obtainable it is only at a high price, while Lancer, only a few years ago so plentiful about Wolverhampton, seems to have disappeared. With the exception of the Middleton growers, and Mr. J. W. Bentley, Stakehill, Manchester, Messrs. them into good ground early in spring; they made good growth and bloomed splendidly the following year. Signs of deterioration are, however, very apparent ; the crowns are small, and I see that the flower-stems will be scanty and wanting in strength. If I let them go another season they will, in all probability, die out this next summer. I must take them up and replant in sweet, well- enriched ground. Take care that they do not suffer from drought, and they will probably come round again. The amount and size of bloom that this Campanula produces appears to be out of proportion to the strength of the foliage, so that a fine-blooming period is often followed by ex- haustion. Much may be done by cutting down the stems as soon as the flowers fade, and giving the plants a Uttle help in the forqi of lic^uid BRAMBLE). Frovi a drawing by B. e. Moon. reminding one somewhat of a Freesia both in colour and scent. Coming as it does from Bokhara, this Iris should be perfectly hardy in this country in soil and under conditions favour- able to the growth of the bulbous section. These conditions I take to be (1) perfect drainage, (2) a warm sunny bed or sheltered corner, and (3) some simple means of keeping off heavy rain during the ripening of the bulbs. S. G. Reid. J. Pope and Son, King's Norton, with a few others, there are but a small list of known growers ; but there is urgent need for some to devote them- selves lo the cross-fertilisation of the named varieties which are procurable with a view of obtaining new standard sorts. There is hope only in cross-fertilisation ; a thousand seedlings may be raised from chance seed and scarcely one result with claims to good quality. Hence, then, anyone turning his hands to improvements must do all he can to enfure seed likely to give good results. It is only those who know the named varieties at present in cultivation who can imagine san ideal gold-laced Polyanthus. R. Dean. NAMED GOLD-LACED POLYANTHUS, The interest in the gold-laced Polyanthus is always strong at this season of the year, when the plants approach their blooming time. Several new varieties have been raised during the last few years, but as stock is obtained only by TREES AN^ SHRUBS. THE NOOTKA BRAMBLE. THE Rubus family is a most charming one, and R. Nutkanus and R. spec- tabilis are happy among the natural vegetation of steep and stony banks. Those who wish to create pretty effects should make a note of them for planting in rough places, especi- ally by woodland walks or in corners more or less shaded by large trees. R. spectabilis has flowers produced singly ; they are large and of a purple-red colour. It grows vigorously, and has stout thorny shoots and large leaves, which are much like those of our native Bramble. The Nootka Bramble (see illustra- tion) is of a different habit, being dwarfer, more bushy, but spreading freely into a hand- some mass of leaf and (lower. The leaves on plants in partial shade are often very large. The flowers, which come in clusters, are pure white, and often S inches aerogs. H. 256 THE GARDEN. [Apkil 29, 1905 GARDENING FOR B8GINN8RS. things failed, prepared UNTIDY CORNERS.— There are I what may be termed waste corners in many gardens. They may not be in prominent positions, they may be too much shaded, or too much roasted with sunshine, and the planted, from not being suitable, have There are plants, if the site is well d, that will suit every position. We mav look round and see how Nature clothes difficult spots, riant the right things, and a new and special feature may be created. In Shady Spots we maj' plant shade-loving shrubs : St. John's Wort (Hypericum calycinura), Berberis Aquifolium and stenophylla, Aucubas, bush Ivies, hardy Ferns, Primroses, Snowdrops, Narcissi, Bluebells or wild Hyacinths, wood Anemones, Solomon's Seal, Hellebores, &c. Bits of rockery may be created, if not under the drip of trees, for hardy Cyclamens and Primroses, and pockets prepared by adding peat, leaf-mould, and sand, intermixed with bits of limestone to suit some things. Hot Sunny Positioivi can be made suitable for most things by digging deep and working in manure and good soil. The finest plants of Tea Roses we have seen for some time were growing on what was formerly always a dry barren spot. The transformation was effected chiefly by cow manure and some good loam worked into the depth of 3 feet. The sunshine is a blessing to the gardener ; we never get enough of it. But we must prepare the site to suit the con- ditions. Annual Olimhing Plants. — Where there are rough, untidy objects to hide a good deal may be quickly done by sowing seeds of Tropseolum majus. The Canary Creeper is useful too. Cobsea scandens will grow 20 feet in one season, and in sheltered spots by the seaside in the south of England the plant lives through the winter. The seeds are usually sown in heat to get an early start, and are planted out in May. Other useful climbing plants are Lophospermum scandens. Convolvulus major, Maurandya bar- clayana, and Eccremooarpus scabra. Fragrance hi the Gardtn. — The old-fashioned Brompton Stock that used to be so common in the cottage garden, the Cabbage Rose, old white Pinks in masses. Musk in damp, shady spots, Violets and Primroses give us the first fragrance of ppring and form one of the early joys of the garden. Very sweet, too, is the fragrance of the Night-scented Slock Mathiola bioornis, seeds of which may be sown now. Heliotrope or Cherry- pie, Lavender, Lad's Love or Southernwood, and, above all, let us sow plenty of Sweet Peas and Mignonette. There are other things, such as Nicotiana affinis and others, which may be added. Cineraria stellata. — Sow a few seeds now and again in June. This is a very fine conservatory plant. Splendid specimens may be grown in (3-inch and 7-inch pots. There is no trouble to sow seeds, but the seed parents should be placed by themselves. The bees have been busy among our plants lately. To obtain a crop of Primula seeds the flowers must be fertilised. The higher bred a plant is the more difficult to seed. The Herbaceous Border. — This is the spot to find suitable flowers for filling the vases, but our present demands are not, so far as regards variety, ejftensive. Flowers *re not crowded SIMPLE HINTS. into vases now as they were years ago. Two or three kinds of flowers with graceful foliage are better than a crowd, but we want a change sometimes. To name a few good things for cutting, Stenactis speciosa superba. Chrysanthe- mum maxima Johnsonii, very large continuous flowering variety of the Ox-eye Daisy, Doronioum (Leopard's-bane), Coreopsis grandiflora Scabiosa caucasica, Madonna Lilies, Paeouies (especially the single whites), Pinks, and, of course. Carna- tions and Roses. Propagating Winter-flowering Salvias. — Salvia splendens is the favourite winter - flowering variety, and cuttings of the young shoots should be rooted now in a warm, close place, potted off when rooted, stopped occasionally till a bushy habit has been obtained, and placed outside with the Chrysanthemums in summer or planted in a sunny position, and pot up again in September ; either way will produce good plants. Repotting Azaleas. — If more pot room is required, now is the time to give it. Use clean pots, well drained in proportion to thesize, and the best obtainable peat, containing plenty of fibre, broken up by hand, and freely intermixed with clean sharp sand. The ball of the plant must be in a maist, healthy condition. Never repot any plant when very dry. It the roots are healthy do not disturb them over - much. Keep the collar of the plant well up, and ram the soil in firmly. Planting Strawberries in April. — If we miss planting in the usual season in August, then, of course, we may plant in spring, in which case the land should be in good order for planting now. Make the land firm, and i-lant in rows with a trowel 2 feet apart and 18 inches apart in the rows. Between each two rows of Straw- berries plant one row of Ailsa Craig or some other Onions, which have been raised under Perpetual Strawberries. — We are not sure that we want perpetual Strawberries. Before the intro- duction of St. Antoine de Padoue and others we had a pretty long season where the alpines were grown. Possibly the alpines will have to go. We have grown them for many j'ears, and rather liked the flavour when well grown. Of course, they were small, but the big things are not the best always. Things in their regular season are always appreciated, but one may soon get tired of Strawberries. Lettuces in Succession, — The Evesham gar- deners, if they take the matter of the early Lettuce supply in hand, will rival the French. There is always room for the earliest and best, and to get them requires glass and patient steady work. Loam pits or frame^ answer very well, and the old-fashioned hot-bed system cannot be beaten for early work. We have had good Lettuces after forced Asparagus. As soon as the first Asparagus is cleared out, the frame is immediately filled with Paris market Lettuces or Giant While Cos, the plants of which had been waiting for the transfer. A quickly - grown Lettuce cannot be bad flavoured or lacking in crispness. Lettuces Outside when well grown are good, but will not compare with the produce from under glass. To have a succession outside we must sow little and often from now on to July, and then sow Brown Qo8 an And the mighty sun on high Lighting up the meadow's green And the Violet's purple sheen. Thou shalt pluck the Violets staid V/hilst I liold thee, little maid. At ray breast, O little child, 'Mid the morning breezes wild, Thou shale play, while joyful sound Echoes o'er thee and around ; Softly wliisper stream and tree When thy mother kisseth thee. Sleep and grow, my little love ! From my arms look up above Where the evening sun doth glow. See the peaceful fields below Lit by gold. and purple pale. Hear the singing nightingale. When the nightingale doth sing. Comes the moon on silver wing. See, she's peeping at us now ; All the flowers before her bow. Let me fold thy liny hands — Sweet ! God's angel near thee stands God is in the starry sky, In the lowly Violet's eye, In the wood where birdsongs ring, In ray heart when " Sleep ! " I sing. Little maiden, everywhere, Just remember — God is there. Jacobi. -(Translated by Sydney Hesseleigqe.) 260 THE GARDEN. [April 29, 1905. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— rAe Editor intende to muke THE GARDEN helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, 710 matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the " Answers to Correspondents" cohtmni All communications should be clearly and concisely ivritten on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he m-ay desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Legra.! Points.— iri; are prepared to a}iswer questions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as clear aiul explicit as possible, so that there can be no doubt as to the point of the question. Answers will be found in a separate column headed "Legal Points." Calceolarias (Constant Header). — It is most probable that your plants have beea improperly watered. You say you gave them water twice a week. This may or may not have been too much. You should not water your plants by rule of thumb like this, but give it to them when they require it, that is, when the soil appears dry or if the pot gives a ringing sound when rapped. Y'our soil may be too poor, for they like a rich one. You should not syringe them, but damp between the pots. Give weak manure water twice a week. Vine Leaves Diseased (/. W. C). — The Vine leaves that you sent are attacked by a fungus, probably a species of Cercospora. The Fig was infested by a fungus (Botrytis cinerea). The Fig leaves were also suffering from the effects of a fungus, but it was not in a condition that I could name it. I should advise you to pull off as many of the affected leaves as you can in both cases and burn them, and spray the others with Bordeaux mixture. I should recommend the same treatment in the case of the Figs. Another time, as soon as the diseases appear, spray with the Bordeaux mixture three times with intervals of a week. — G. S. S. How TO Grow Rhobarb and Varieties (S.). It often happens after a few years that Rhubarb grown in one place becomes weak and needs replanting, and also, if possible, give a fresh quarter with new soil well enriched with manure. In market gardens large breadths are planted annually, and in most cases the old roots are lifted and split up into several pieces, each portion having a good crown. The pieces of root are replanted in deeply-dug, well-manured land. In a private garden it is well to make a new quarter every three years, destroying an old one. When this is done the return is much greater from a small plot of land, and, what is equally important, the produce is better in every way. You ask what is the matter with your plants, the stalks are wrinkled, and at times stringy when cooked. This is readily explained — the growths are deficient in moisture, the growth having been too slow. The roots are impoverished at the base. They are fairly moist and tender, but when exposed they soon get hard. Of course, there may be no great fault with the culture, but you give no particulars as to manuring, soils, or position. The fault may arise from other causes, and in many small gardens the variety of Rhubarb is at fault. Only last week we were in a garden and the owner complained of the Rhubarb. He had only bought the roots two years ago, but from a source that was unreliable. We advised some good roots of Champagne and throw the inferior ones away. You ask for the best varieties and for a succession. Although now quite late enough to plant, it may be done successfully if a mulching with short manure is given after planting, and, should the early part of the summer be dry, occasionally watered, but, of course, the returns in the way of stalks will be nil this season. You will be well off next year, however. There are some excellent varieties. Quite recently a Rhubarb has been introduced from the Colonies that begins to grow quite early in the autumn without any forcing ; indeed, it is so precocious that it gets cut down by the first frost unless protected. It is a nice red variety, not large, but valuable on account of its natural growth so early in the season. This has been exhibited on several occasions by Messrs. Sutton, Reading. The same firm also have a splendid variety called the Sutton Rhubarb. This is very distinct, and of splendid colour and flavour. Another very fine Rhubarb recently sent out by Messrs. Veitch, Chelsea, is Daw's Champion. This is one of the best introductions of recent years, remarkably early, the stalk large and beautiful, and rich in colour and flavour. Doubtless the best all-round Rhubarb is Hawke's Champagne. It is later than Daw's, but a splendid variety to form a succession. For earliness in the open ground the Early Scarlet is one of the best, and this in some cases is grown under other names, so that it is well to get new stock from a good source. It is not of such good flavour as the Champagne, and if earliness is not an important point we would advise the Champagne in preference. Another very good and early Rhubarb is Royal Albert or Early Red. It is not so early as the Eirly Scarlet, but quite equal to it in quality. For later use Myatt's Victoria is one of the best. Doubtless the above number will suffice, but if very large stalks are needed Stott's Monarch is one of the best ; it is also late. Whatever variety is grown the land should be deeply dug and well enriched with decayed stable manure. Plant at 3 feet between the plants, and make a new bed every year. Pruning Almond Trees {Rebecca). — Your Almonds ought not to require much pruning. If any is done it should be in the form of thinning rather than cutting back, except in the case of branches that may be getting out of bounds. You did quite wrong to shorten the branches iu autumn. The buds for the following spring's flowers were formed then, and you cut them off. Pruning, if required, should be done as soon as the flowers are over in spring. You say that your trees grow very rapidly. From this we should say that they require root pruning. Try making a trench 21 feet or 3 feet from the trunks and all round the trees, and cutting the large roots. Be sure that you make clean cuts that will heal quickly. When pruning branches or roots paint the wounds over with tar as a protection from the weather and fungus spores. Neglected Plum Trees (^-1. G. C). — Yes, cut down the leading shoots that are right above the wall, or, rather, cut them out altogether. It will not do any harm to do this now. If there are any gross, very vigorous shoots in the tree cut them right out ; you will never get fruits from them. It is upon the moderately vigorous shoots that fruit-spurs are produced. Cut out some of the oldest worn-out branches and train in young growths. Cut back any of the spurs that have become long and have left the shelter of the wall. Remove a few inches of the surface soil 4 feet away from the wall, and top-dress with turfy loam with which some lime rubble and bone-meal has been mixed. Asi'iDiSTRA (Spea.c). — You may divide this now, although it would have been better a month earlier before growth was so far advanced. How- ever, if you do the work carefully, taking care not to damage the roots, the plants will soon recover from the temporary check and grow away strongly. A soil composed of two parts loam, one of leaf-soil, with some silver sand mixed with it, and all well mixed together, would do well. Be very careful to keep the plants out of draughts and cold and direct sunshine for a few weeks after potting. Make the soil fairly firm, and see that it is pushed well between the roots and the sides of the pot. Water when you have finished potting ; then do not water again until the soil seems fairly dry. Later on, when the plants are well rooted, more water will be necessary. Androsace lanuginosa (il/rs. M. M.).—Th\B plant frequently suffers badly during our damp winters with its silky foliage, drip from over- hanging trees being most fatal to it. The best position for it is an open one facing south, planted on a rocky ledge in sandy loam. If the shoots are dead they should be cut off, but if the growing points are still alive they may be pegged down and a slight top-dressing of gritty soil given. Providing that there is perfect drainage, your plant will soon recover itself and grow rapidly. This plant is somewhat later in start- ing into growth than its fellow species A. sarmentosa It naturally follows that when a plant has occupied the same position for a length of time the soil gets exhausted of the particular constituents that it requires, so that either a fresh place has to be selected and the plant transferred, or the soil in the old position must be renewed. Pruning Newly-planted Fruit Trees (S.). Very little pruning of the newly-planted trees will be needed this season, and as you say your trees are three or four years old the transplant- ing in the autumn will cause a check, so that the growth this year will not be very great. Some good growers say do not prune the first year, others say shorten the long shoots, but this shortening has a tendency to promote a free growth at the upper portion, and in years to come there will be a barren growth lower down. We advise shortening back this season to induce a break lower down. Much may be done by pinching any misplaced shoots ; indeed, the first season the grower will find pleasure in stopping a growth here and encouraging one elsewhere, and by removal of others not required. This done, there will be very little use for the knife the first year. With regard to thinning of the fruits, these will be best left till the season is a little more advanced, as it is not safe to thin the flowers too soon, even after the fruit has set. It is an easy matter to thin out afterwards, and in a short time it will soon be seen which are likely to take the lead. Of course, the first season you must crop very lightly indeed, and on trees the age you name you can only allow a small quantity of fruits to develop, and these will not be large. Asparagus {S.). — There are not many forms of Aiparagus, and even when a certain sort is selected it is difficult for a time to find out if the true variety is secured. Few, if any, vegetable plants require greater care in seeding, as indis- criminate seed sowing gives poor results. Far better obtain seed from a good grower than save one's own seed of a poor variety. Of course, it is not at all difficult to get seed true to name from our leading seedsmen, and my remarks as to dilfieultiea in the variety is when seedlings are obtained at this season. In France special attention is paid to this plant and to the seed stock, with the result that splendid results are secured. Most of our leading seed firms will supply the well known Argenteuil, a favourite Asparagus in the Paris markets. Of home-grown sorts we do not think the Connover's Colossal can be beaten. This is one of the best, and many prefer it to the purple Argenteuil named above. There are also others, such as the Perfection and Batlersea, but so much depends upon the seed stock. We would add now is a good lime to sow seed, and avoid crowding, as this sadly weakens the Erowth. There should be no delay in planting. The seedlings should not be exposed longer than possible, and they should also be kept moist, the roots carefully spread out in soil previously pre- pared, and it should not be too wet or sticky at planting. AriUL 19, 1005,] THE GARDEN. 261 Namks of Plants. — Imrian. — Ribes aureum. A, E. 5.— Spirrei Thunbergi. C. S. C.~l, Adiantum decorum ; 2, Adiantum Leprandi ; 3, Cotoneaater micro- phylla ; 4, Pieris (Andromeda) flonbunda. Names op Frtjit.— r. Hunter.— 1, Lord Raglan; 2, Dutch Alignonne. Short Replies. — FF. G. S.— The appearance of your Begonia tuijers would suggest that the hot-bed had proved too warm for them, and this, combined with an excess of moistuiv, had caused some of them to rot. Tubers that have been kept dry all the winter must be moistened very gradually, otherwise failure will result. The plants you mention may now be safely pricked out in a sheltered border, provided (and this is a most important item) they have been exposed to plenty of air and sunshine, so that their growth is short and sturdy, as if drawn up tall and fragile they are sure to suffer whenever they are planted nut. F. F. L. — Without knowing more of what the flue dust is composed or without a sample it would be unsafe for us to venture an expression of opinion as to its use as a manure for the garden. SOCIETIES. BRIGHTON" AND SUSSEX The fourteenth annual spring show of this society was held, as usual, in the Corn Exchange and Dome, Brighton, on Tuesday and Wednesday, the ISt-h and 13Lh inst., and, except that the weather was somewhat showery on the first day, it was a great success. There were no less than eighty-one classes, principally devoted to spring-flowering plants, the majority of which were well filled. There were several very fine honorary exhibits, the most notable being that of Messrs. William Balchin and Son, who occupied the centre of one end of the Corn Exchange. Not only was the airangemeut excellent, but the quality of every- thing employed denoted the highest cultural skill. The splendidJy-grown Cocos, Kentias, Crotons, and Dracaenas were most conspicuous among foliage plants, while Anthuriums, Liliums, Azaleas, Begonias, and Hydrangeas were staged in bold masses with a groundwork of Fern. A truly magnificent exhibit. Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons of Lowfleld Nurseries, Craw- ley, also made a fine show of plants, cut flowers, and fruit, and also put up an interesting piece of rockery, which was well planted with suitable subjects. For a group of flowering and foliage plants the place of honour was occupied by Mr. G. Miles, Victoria Nursery, Byke Road, Brighton, who has made for himself quite a reputation in grouping. His group this year was bright, effective, and lightly arranged, and contained many well grown flowering and foliage plants. An Asparagus which he named rfgidus, and which, I believe, is not yet on the market, is always a tower of strength to him. It is distinct, light, and beautiful. The second place was occupied by Mr. 3. Sims, gardener to E. A. Wallace, Esq., Sunnyside, Upper Lewes Road, Brighton, also with a very fine arrangement. The class for a table of flowering and foliage plants is always a strong feature at Brighton. The flrst prize was worthily won by Mr. Head, The Drive Nursery, Hove, with an exceedingly light and tasteful arrangement ; second, Mr. H. Goldsmith, gardener to D. Hack, Esq.,J,P., Fir Croft, Withdene, running Mr. Head very close. For a table of Orchids, Mr. J. Harper, gardener to E. A. Tucker, Esq., Vernon Lodge, Preston, far outdistanced the other competitors, both the variety and culture of the plants being excellent. For a mantelpiece and hearth arranged with plants for effect, Mr. G. Miles was again flrst. For twelve Hyacinths, single spikes, Mr. J. Harper and Mr. J. Eereveld, gardener to H. Young, Esq , Withdene Grange, were flrst and second respectively. King of the Blues, Sutton's Matchless !(a flne bright yellow), Sutton's Favourite, Lord Bilfour, and Czar Peter were among the best in the two collections. For twelve pots of Tulips Mr. Eereveld just managed to beat Mr. Harper, both showing well. Lilies of the Valley were a great feature and flnely ^rown, for twelve pots Mr. G. Eastwood, gardener to Mrs. Gould, Hassocks, being well ahead ; second, Mr. J. Eereveld. Six pots of Mignonette : This was a grand exhibit. Mr. J. Mills, Southdown Nursery, Kingston - by - Sea, was worthily first with some magnificent specimens ; second, Mr. G. Eastwood. Violets were beautifully shown in pots by Mr. J. Adams, gardener to the Rev. Sir G. C. ShiffnT, Bart., Coomhe Place, near Lewes ; second, Mr. G. Mann, gardener to J. Dudney, Esq., East Hill House, Po^tslade. For six Carnations in pots Mr. G. Eastwood and Mr. J. Goldsmith were first and second. For twelve pots of Narcissus Mr. J. Harper was flrst, as he also was for twelve pots of Polyanthus Narcissus, the iatter especially being remarkably good. Persian Cyclamen were not nearly so well shown as they generally are at Brighton. Cinerarias formed a striking feature. For twelve, Mr. <}. Miles was a good first ; second, Mr. H. Goldsmith, Amaryllis were nicely shown by Mr. Goldsmith. For nine greenhouse Azaleas Mr. F. Colli?, gardener to Mrs. Hughes, Preston Park Avenue, Brighton, showed a well-fiowered fresh set; second, Mr. Sims. , For six pot Rosea Mr. S. Chandler, gardener to Mrs. ^illington, Lee Hurst, Withdean, was well to the front with very flne specimens. For six Ghent or mollis Azaleas Mr. Head was flrst with well-flowertd plants. For six Strawberries in pots Mr. Eastwood occupied the premier place, as he also did for twenty-flve fruits, picked. The competition in these classes was very kten. For twelve bunches of cut Narcissus Mr. J. Harper was first, followed closely by Mr. M. Tourie. These, were wonderfully well staged, and the flrst prize lot consisted of C. J. Backhouse. Mr. H. Garnett, gardener to R. G. Fletcher, Esq., Mount Harry, Withdean, was a splendid flrst for twelve varieties of cut flowers, showing all choice Orchids ; second, Mr. G. Eastwood. For twelve cut Roses Mr. G. Mann was flrst ; second, Mr. G. Miles. Table Decorations. There are few places in the country where these are done better than at Brighton, and this year nine com- peted, all of them being excellent. Miss Mabel Howell, Tower Lodge, Queen's Park, Brighton, stood out con- spicuously as the winner with a delightful arrangement, using prettily tinted Primula obconica, Jonquil, Camper- nelle, Lily of the Valley, beautiful Croton leaves, Aspara- gus, and Ferns ; second, Mrs. Ripley, East Grinstead, another noted exhibitor ; third, Miss V. Thomas, Miran- shah, Preston Park. So good were these that two extra prizes were awarded. Classes devoted to gardeners and amateurs only were well contested, and in most cases the exhibits were of a high order of merit. Mr. J. Thorpe, the able and courteous secretary, and the other hard-working officials connected with the society are to be heartily congratulated on getting together three such flne shows during the year as they do at Brighton. MIDLAND DAFFODIL SOCIETY'S SHOW. The annual exhibition of this society was held on the ISbh and 19th inst. in the Botanic Gardens, Edgbaston, in winfry weather. There was an excellent display of Daffodils and a representative gathering of enthusiasts, among them being Miss Willmott, Miss Currie, the Revs. G. H. Engleheart and E. Bourne, Messrs. R. Sydenham, G. Pope, J.Walker, F. W. Burbidge, Backhouse, D. Pearson, P. R. Barr, W. B. Litham, and others. The exhibits were arranged, as usual, in the corridor, which is an ideal place for them. At the luncheon sympathetic reference was made to the recent death of the Lord Mayor of Birming- ham, a supporter of the society. Iq the evening Mr. Robert Sydenham and Mr. Pope invited a large number of exhibitors, officials, and visitors to dinner, and a most enjoyable evening was spent. After dinner there followed a discussion about Daffodil culture, in which the Revs. G. H. Engleheart and E. Bourne, Messrs. Barr, Sydenham, Pope, and others took part. Hearty thanks were expressed to Mr. Sydenham and to Mr. Pope for their hard work in furthering the interests of the society. Fifty varieties of Daffodils : First, Messrs. Pope and and Sons, King's Norton, with a very beautiful lot, for instance. King's Norton, Weardale Perfection, Boniface, Olympus, Emperor and other Ajax sorts, Lucifer, Will Scarlet, Orangeman, Flamingo, Southern Scar, and others of the Medio-coronati type, as well as some fine Parvi- coronati varieties. Twenty-flve varieties of Daffodils : First, Mr. H. B. Young, Metheringham, with such as Gloria Mundi, Mrs. J. B. M. Camm, Mme. de Graaf, Ellen Barr, John Bain, Vesuvius, Captain Nelson, Glory of Leiden ; second, Mr. W. A. Watts, Bronwylfa, St. Asaph ; third, Mr. J. Mallen- der, Worksop. Twelve varieties of seedlings : The flrst prize was won by Mrs. Berkeley, Sketchley Park, Worcester, with some beautiful flowers. They comprised Incognita, white, with flat pale gold cup ; Aurora, rounded perianth segments, yellow orange-tipped cup ; Rhymester, a flue poeticus ; Earl Grey, primrose yellow trumpet ; Siren, a huge bicolor Ajax ; and Robert Berkeley, pale sulphur, with short frilled trumpet. The second prize was won by Mr. P. D. Williams, Lanarth, St. Keverne, RS.O., Cornwall; third, Miss Katharine A. Spurrell, Hanworth, Norwich. Six varieties ol Daffodil seedlings raised by the exhibitor : First, Messrs. Pope and Sons, Birmingham, whose flowers were unnamed ; second. Miss K. A. Spurrell ; third, Mr. J, Mallender, Hodsock Priory Gardens, Worksop. Twelve varieties of trumpet Daffodils: First, Messrs. Pope and Sons, King's Norton, Birmingham, with splendid Glory of Noordwijk, Glory of Leiden, Emperor, King's Norton, Mrs. Camm, and others ; second, Rev. G F. Eyre, Far Forest Vicarage, Worcester ; third, Mr. H. B. Young, Metheringham, Lincoln. Six varieties of trumpet Daffodils : First, Mr. J. Mallender, Hodsock Piiory Gardens, Worksop; second, Mr. C. L. Branson, Coleshill Park, Coleshill ; third, Mr. W. A. Watts, St. Asaph. Twelve varieties of Medio-coronati: First, Mr. H. B. Young, Metheringham, Lincoln. Included were Barri Flora Wilson, Lincoln, Lul worth, Lucifer, Barri cou- spicuus, and Gloria Mundi. Second, Rev. G. F. Eyre, Far Forest Vicarage, Worcester ; third, Messrs. Pope and Son, King's Nur.on. Six varieties of Medio-coronati : First, Mr. A. R Goodwin, Kidderminster, with Autocrat, Ceres, Resolute, Katharine Spurrell, Waterwitch, and Citron ; second, Mr. C. L. Branson, Coleshill ; third, Mr. W. A. Watts, St. Asaph. Six distinct Parvi-coronati : First, Messrs. Pope and Sons, the only exhibitors. Oriflamme, Southern Star, Picotee, C. J. Backhouse, and Lidia Pope were included. Six varieties of true Poeticus : First, Mr. H. B. Young, Metheringham, with Ornatus, Cassandra, Almira, grandi- flurus, g. prascox, and Homer; second, Messrs. Pope and Sous. Twelve distinct Daffodils with orange crowns or cups: The only exhibitor was Mr. H. B. Young, who was awarded second prize. For six similar varieties Mr. A. J, Mallender was first with C. J. Backhouse, Mary Anderson, Gloria Mundi, and others ; second, Mr. A. R. Goodwin ; third, Dr. Lewis Jones. Twelve varieties of Daffodils (not to cost more than lOs. per dozen): Ei|Ual flrst, Mr. R. C. Cartwright, King's Norton, and Mr. S. S. Jones, Prees. Mrs. Muston, Edgbaston, was first in a similar class for six varieties. For twelve varieties representing the three sections Mr. Cartwright was first ; second, Mr. S. Jones ; third, Mr. Kenrick, Edgbaston. Nine varieties of Tulips : First, Mr. A. E. Campbell, Gourock, with excellent blooms ; second, Mr. R. C. Cart- wright, King's Norton ; third, Mr. S. S. Jones. The first prize for a group of cut Daffodils on a table was won by Messrs. F. Impey and Sons, Midland Spring Gardens, Northfield, with a charming and simple arrange- ment. Messrs. Pope and Sons had the best bowl of Daffodils, and Messrs. Felton and Sons, Hanover Square, W., the best bouquet. The first prize for an epergne was awarded to Mr. J. A. Kenrick, Ejgbaston. Many good pot plants of Narcissi and Tulips were shown in the classes for them. Mr. Sydenham gave prizes. Non-competitive Exhibits. Messrs. Barr and Sjns, King Street, Covent Garden, made an extensive display with Narcissi in great variety. Among the trumpets were the rare white Peter Barr, Mme. de Graaff, C. H. Curtis (new), King Alfred, Monarch, Lord Roberts, Pharoah, Weardale Perfection, and others. Of the Medio-coronati type were Gloria Mundi, Sbrongbow, Nelsoni aurantius, Lucifer, and Apricot Beauty ; while of the poeticus type, Salmonetta, Cassandra, Firebrand, Barri conspicuus, Almira, Lady Godiva, and others were shown. This exhibit made a very fine display. Gold medal. Messrs. Dicksons, The Nurseries, Chester, exhibited Narcissi in great variety. Such Ajax sorts as Victoria, Emperor, Sir Watkin, Empress, and Mme. Plemp were finely shown, and especially good among other sections were Lucifer, Beatrice, Princess Mary, Cynosure, Duchess of Westminster, and Flora Wilson. Small silver medaL Mr. S. Mortimer, Rowledge, Farnham, Surrey, sent some finely-ttowered Polyanthuses, making quite a bank of colour. Bronze medal. Hybrid and seedling Narcissi raised by himself were exhibited by the Rev. G. H. Engleheart, Dinton, Wilts. They comprised some very beautiful flowers. Among the named sorts were Delicata, a star-shaped flower, white perianth, lemon yellow cup ; Waterwitch, milk white, with spreading perianth segments and trumpet half their length ; Glitter, primrose yellow, with scarlet-tipped cup ; and Veremiel, white perianth, with flat, orange scarlet cup. Most of the varieties were unnamed. Silver-gilt Flora medal. Some delightful Narcissi were shown by Miss F. W. Currey, The Warren Gardene, Lismore, Ireland. They were all first-rate sorts. Lady of the Snows (sulphur trumpet). Glory of Leiden, Victoria, King Alfred, White Knight, Captain Nelson, Mme. Plemp (all trumpet fiowera). Peach, Gloria Mundi, Queen Sophia, Nelsoni' major among the Medio-coronati varieties, and many lovely sorts of the poeticus type were included. Silver- gilt medal. Some very flne blooms were included in the exhibit of Narcissi from Messrs. J. R. Pearson and Sons, Chilwell Nurseries, Lowdham, Notts. Among the incomparabilia type were Autocrat, Goliath, Backhouse!, Maurice Vil- morin, Nelsoni major. Prince Teck, Gloria Mundi, Flam- beau, and others. Among the trumpets Duke of Bedford, Siren, Lowdham Beauty (.white, with sulphur trumpet), White Queen, Florence Pearson, Sir Francis Drake, Mme. de Graaff, and King Alfred were very flue. Of Parvi- coronati flowers Sensation (white perianth and yellow orange-tipped cup) was charming. Silver-gilt medal. The Anemones from Messrs. Reamabottom and Co., Alderborough Nurseries, Geashill, King's County, were very beautiful. Scarlet, pink, salmon, purple, white, blush, and other shades of colour were represented by flner flowers than we have hitherto seen. "This group was one of the brightest features of the show. Large silver medal. Messrs. Gunn and Sons, Olton, Birmingham, exhibited a rockery planted with such plants as Primulas, Auriculas, Aubrietias, Polyanthuses, Violas, Fritillarias, and others, making a bright display. Large silver medaL The group of Carnations and flowering shrubs from Messrs. Hewitt and Co., Solihull, Birmingham, was very showy and well arranged. Large silver medal. The zonal Pelargonium blooms from Mr. Vincent Slade, Taunton, were in many brilliant shades of colour, and formed a striking exhibit. Large silver medal. Mr. Robert Sydenham, Tenby Street, Birmingham, ex- hibited some very good Lilium longiflorum and other plants grown in moss flbre alone. A specimen of Narcissus Mme. Plemp (eighteen bulbs) bore thirty-four flowers. Mr. Sydenham also showed Tulips, Lilies of the Valley, and many Narcissi grown in bowls and moss fibre. Large silver medal. The Irish-grown Narcissi from Messrs. Hogg and Robert- son, Rush, County Dublin, were very good, and included many flrst-rate sorts. Among- the trumpets were Duke of Bedford, Horsfleldi, Rush Giant, Victoria, Lady Margaret Boscawen ; others were Lady Gore - Booth, Lucifer, Lady Arnott, Dorothy York, some fine poeticus varieties. Gold Eye, rugulosus, and ceruuus plenus. Some Tulips also were in this stand. Large silver medal. Messrs. Felton and Sons, Hanover Square, London, showed some very fine cut Roses, Carnations, and Pansy plants. Large silver medal. 262 THE GARDEN. [April 29, 1905* Sir Joaslyn- Gore -Booth, Lisaadel, Sligo, exhibited an excellent collection of Narcissi Lulworth, Burbidgei Falstaff, Peach, Leedai Phyllis, SIme. de Graaf, Grandis, cerauua, Frank Miles, and others were included. Large silver medal. Anemones were finely shown by Messrs. Gilbert and Son, Dyke, Bourne, Lines. The variety King of Scarlets was very bright. An award of merit was given to it. Another good variety is Queen of Bosea. Anemone fulgens varieties and the St. Brigid Anemones were included in this exhibit. Large silver medal. Messrs. Bakers, Wolverhampton, had a charming dis- play of dwarf plants, such as Violas, Primulas, Aubrietias, Auriculas, Phlox, Erinus, Iberis, Polyanthuses, &c., effec- tively arranged on a rockery. Small gold medal. Messrs. W. H. Simpaon and Sons, Birmingham, showed a handsome group of Narcissus in great variety, including many of the best sorts. Large silver medal. The Misses Hopkins, Mere, Kuutsford, Cheshire, showed Polyanthuses, Daisies, Fritillaries, and other hardy plants. Mr. J. Mallender, Hodsock Priory. \Yorksop, exhibited a collection of Daffodils raised by himself. They included Bome very good pale yellow and sulphur-coloured trumpet varieties. Bronze medal. Mr. W. A. Watts, Bronwylfa, St. Asaph, was awarded a bronze medal for a collection of Polyanthuses, which con- tained some excellent strains ; the flower* were large, of fine form, and distinct colours. Bronze medaL New Narcissi. Awards of merit were granted to Warleiien--^is. — A large and handsome yellow trumpet variety, the perianth segments broad and well formed, the trumpet a deeper yellow. From Miss Willmott, Warley Place, Essex. Lady of the Snows.— A. pale sulphur-coloured trumpet flower, the long, finely-formed trumpet with frilled edge a deeper shade. From Miss F. W. Currey, Lismore, Ireland. Odorus rugulosus maximus. — A very beautiful flower, richest yellow throughout the perianth, and short trumpet ; a most striking flower. From Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent, Garden. First-class certificate. Awards of merit were also given to Anemone King of Scarlets, from Messrs. Gilbert and Son, Dyke, Bjurne, Lines. ; to the Polyanthuses shown by Mr. Mortimer, Farnham, Surrey, ana to a white Tree Carnation The Belle from Mr. A. F. Dutton, Bsxley Heath. The premier flowers were : King Alfred from Messrs. Barr and Sons, White Queen from ilesars. Pope and Sons, and Beacon from Mr. P. D. Williams. NATIONAL AURICULA SOCIETY. The sixth annual exhibition was held in connexion with the above. In the classes devoted to Auriculas, the premier alpine variety was Dr. Pegge, included in the first prize exhibit of Mr. J. W. Bentley, Castleton. The premier show bloom was Acme, from Mr. J. Collier. Mr. W. Smith, Bishop's Stortford, was first for six show Auriculas, and Mr. W. M. Shipman second. Four show Auriculas : First, Mr. W. Smith ; second, Mr. C. Winn. Two show Auriculas : First, Mr. J. W. Bentley, Castleton ; second, Mr. S. T. Healey, Leicester. Single plants.— (zV('t'7i edges: First, Mr. F. T. Poulson, Stafford, with Mrs. Henwood. Grey edges: First, Mr. M. Shipman, with Geo. Lightbody White edge^ : First, Mr. J. Collier, with Acme. Sel/s : First, Mr. C. J. Fox, Sparkhill, with Mrs. Potts. Premier show Auricula : First, Mr. J. Collier, Ludlow, with Acme. Six filpines : First, Mr. J. W. Bentley, with Pluto, Dr. Pegce, Cynthia, Godiva, Aglaia, and Rosie. Fuur alpiofs: First, Mr. Bentley. Two alpines : First, Mr. F. T. Puulaon. SiiiRle pUnt, g>ld centre: First, Mr. R. Holding, with Hi. haul Dean. Sinyle plant, light centre : First, Mr. F. T. Puiii- Committee. Present: Messrs. Harry J. Veitch, James O'Brien, de B. Crawshay, F. J. 'Thorne, J. W. Odell, R. G. Thwaites, A. A. McBean, W. U. White, G. F. Moore, H. Ballantine, H. T. Pitt, H. A. Tracy, W, Boxall, W. H. Young, F. W. Ashton, H. J. Chapman, H. Little, W. A. Bilney, and W. Thompson. Norman C. Cookaon, Esq., Wylam-on-Tyne, Northum- berland (gardener, Mr. Chapman), exhibited a group of very fine Odontogloasums, most of them being varieties of criapum of exceptional merit. Among them were the following, each ol which has become famous; 0, c. grairieanum, O. c. Britannia, O. c. Bryan (new), O. c. massangeanum, 0. c. Frederick, O.c. smeeianum, Chapmani, xanthotea, and some large typical crispums. The white variety of Cattleya gaskelliana was also included. Silver- gilt Flora medal. The group of Orchids shown by H. T. Pitt, Esq., Stam- ford Hill, N. (gardener, Mr. Thurgood), was an extensive one, and contained many good plants. It was altogether very effective. Miltonia vexillaria Kaiserin Augusta, with its deep rose-coloured fiowers, was very effective. Of Cattleyas there were C. Schrbdera3 in several varieties and C. Mendelii, Lcelia purpurata Novelty, and other varieties of L. purpurata were interspersed. The Odonto- glossums were a striking feature, and included luteo- purpureum var., crispum Britain's Queen, c. Britain's King, Oncidiums, Dendrobiums, Cypripediums, and Zygo- petalums, all represented by good sorts, gave further variety and colour. Silver-gilt Flora medal. Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, included some very choice Orchids in their group ; for instance, Cattleya intermedia nivea (white, with pink-tinged lip), Lielia purpurata alba, Miltonia bleuana nobilior, Cattleya SchrbJerrc alba var. Mme. Louis de Hemptinne (shown for Gerard de Geest, gardener to M. le Marquis de Wavrin, Belgium), Cypripedium harrisianum albens, Phaius Cook- soni^e, P. Phoebe, Lselio-Cattleya Ruby Gem, Miltoniopsis bleuana Sandenc, various Cypripediums, and others. Silver Flora medal. C. J. Lucas, Esq., Warnham Court, Horsham, exhibited Odontoglossum Hallii grandiflorura, 0. wilckeanum, 0. graude, 0. andersuniatium, and several other fine varieties unnamed. Silver Banksian medal. J. Bradshaw, E=(i.,The Grange, Southgate, N. (gardener, Mr. G. G. Whiteleffge), showed Brasso-Cattleya digbyano- Schroderre var. Empress of India, Cattleya Empress Frederic var. xanthoglossa, and a very fine form of C. Scliroderte called Robin, with a large mass of bright purple in the lip ; one of the richest-coloured forms of C. Schro- derse we have seen. New Orchids. Odontoglossum thomijsonianum. — This is one of the most remarkable Odontoglossums ever exhibited. It is the result of a cross between 0. crispum and 0. Edwardii, and partakes of the character of both parents. The flowers, which are the size of a small 0. crispum, have the shape of this species, and are deep chocolate-crimson, with the end uf each sepal and petal tinged with purple. The lip, which is rather pointed, is also chocolate-crimson, with purple tip. The flowers are produced at the end of a long scape, as in 0. Edwardii. The plantshown had seven flowers and buds upon a scape about 4 feet long, and laterals were developing below. A first-class certificate was awarded to this plant. Shown by W. Thompson, Esq., Walton Grange, Stone, Staffs (gardener, Mr. W. Stevens). Brasso-Cattleya nivalis. — A very beautiful flower; with while pointed sepals and petals and broad, open lip, tinged in the centre with primrose yellow. The column and throat are tinged with lilac. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., Burford (Orchid grower, Mr. W. H. White). First-class certiflcate. Cattlcjja SchrodcrcB var. Robin.— A beautiful variety with pale blush sepals and petals ; the frilled lip has a mass of rich purple in the centre, this extends into the throat, and there is bordered by two masses of yellow. From J. Bradshaw, Esq., The Grange, Southgate, N. (gardener, Mr. G. G. Whitelegge). First-class certiflcate. Cattleya Schroderce alba Mine. Louise de Hemptinne.— A very beautiful flower, pure white, except for a mass of orange yellow in the throat. The petals are very large, the Up is frilled, and altogether the form is perfect. Shown by Messrs. Sander for the Marquis de Wavrin, Sommerghen, Belgium (gardener, M. G. de Geest). First- class certiflcate. Odontoglossrim crispum Smeeianum.— This ia a large handsome flower with the sepals and petals spotted with light red upon a pale lilac ground tinged with a deeper lilac. Both sepals and petals are broad and well formed. From N. C. Conkson, E'lq., Wylam-on-Tyne (gardener, Mr. Chapman). Award of merit. A botanical certiflcate waa awarded to Miss Willmott, V.M.H., Warley Place, Essex, for Oncidium o'brienianum. Fruit and Vegetable Committee. Present: Mr. George Bunyard (chairman), Messrs. Joseph Cheal, Edwin Beckett, Alex. Dean, Wm. Fyfe, Henry Parr, William Pope, George Keif, J. Willard, G. Reynolds, J. Jaques, Ort'en Thomas, T. Arnold, and S. Mortimer. potato The Factor.— Thi^ well-known variety waa shown l>y Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Rotheaay, and was awarded a fir-t-cl:is3 certiflcate. In eighteen trials of Potatoes in diffeient parts of the country. The Factor gave the highest average crop. There is not much doubt that it is the finest and most reliable cropping Potato grown. It is a large kidney-shaped tuber. Narcissus Committee Present : Miaa Willmott, the R^vd. G. H. Engleheart and S. Eugene Bourne, Charles MacMichael, Charles T. Digby, Arthur R. Goodwin, R. Dean, E. A. Bowles, George S. Titteridge, Wm. Copeland, J. D. Pearson, A. Kingsmill, Robert Sydenham, J. Pope, Walter T. Ware, J. de Graaf, Rudolph Barr, James Walker, and C. H. Curtis. Barr's silver Daffodil cup, presented by Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, for the best collection of Daffo- dils, was won by E. W. Crosfield, Esq., Little Acton, Wrex- ham. A. S. Leslie Melville, Esq , Branston, Lincoln, was second, and was awarded a silver Flora medal. Mr. C. J. van Tubergen, jun., Haarlem, Holland, ex- hibited several unnamed Narcissi seedlings ; among them were some beautiful flowers. The Narcissi from Messrs. Barr and Sons were a very fine lot. In addition to many vases full of the better- known sorts, there was an exhibit of new seedlings. These comprised some beautiful flowers, unnamed, especially among the sulphur-coloured trumpets, and we noticed the handsome N. odorus rugulosus maxinnis, which obtained a first-class certificate at Birmingham last week. Among the named sorts were Almira, Apricot, Princess Maud, Gloria Mundi, Mme. de Graaff, Xelsoni major, Nelsoni aurantiua, and many others. Tulips at either end of the- Narcissi group gave brilliant colouring to this exhibit, which wasamo%tattractiveone. Silver-gilt Binksian medal. Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Floral Farms, Wisbech^ exhibited a choice gathering of Narcissi in many varieties. Gloria Mundi was very bright, and especially good were J. B. M. Camm, Mme. de Graaff, Glory of Leiden, Xelsoni major, John Nelson, Maurice Vilmorin, Nelsoni auranlius, Katherine Spurrell, Mrs. Langtry, and Weardale Perfec- tion. Among the new ones were Snow Queen (sulphur trumpet), a beautiful unnamed seedling, a short trumpet (an improvement on Francesca), a very fine yellow trumpet, Goldfinch and Mina (two new yellow trumpets). The Tulips were very fine, and among them we noted Jermy (rich rose, with while base internally, a beautiful flower, and Golden Queen (the finest of the yellows), Thomas Moore, Proserpine, Greigi, Montresor, Vesuvius (a rich crimson), and others. Silver-gilt Banksian medal. Messrs. J. R. Pearson and Sons, Chilwell Nurseries, Lowdham, Notts, exhibited a large collection of Narcissi in many beautiful sorts. We might specially mention Seagull, Maggie May, Maurice Vilmorin, Lulworth, and Resolute among the Medio-coronati varieties, while among the Parvi-coronati were Branston, Falstaff, Gold Eye, Cresset, Gipsy Queen, Homer, and others. Of the trumpet sorts Florence Pearson (sulphur perianth and primrose trumpet) was very beautiful, and other fine ones were Weardale Perfection, and Mme. de Graaff. Silver-gilt medal. Miss Willmott, V.M.H., Warley Place, Great Warley^ Essex, exhibited a group of Narcissi in some lovely varieties. Of the trumpets there were Great Warley^ Earl Grey (primrose yellow). Ducat (gold). Rev. C. Digby, and Sihon (rich yellow trumpet, cream perianth). The Parvi-coronati section was finely represented by such as Cresset, Firebrand, Oriflamme, Cassandra, Zenith, and Valeri.i. Of the Medio-coronati were Lucifer, Lucia, Moccolo (with apricot trumpet), and Aladdin. Gold medal. The Daffodils and Tulips from Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, attractively arranged amid Maidenhair Fern, made a bright display. Among the former were good flowers of Gloria Mundi, Mme. Plemp» Glory of Leiden, Frank Miles, and others. The Tulips included Greigii, Purple Crown, Pottebakker Yellow, King of the Yellows, Sylveatris, Thomas Moore, Belle Alliance^ Chrysolora, and others. Messrs. Pope and Sons, King's Norton, near Birmingham^ showed a collection of Narcissi. King's Norton, the big yellow trumpet, was finely represented, and so were Lady M. Boscawen, Rembrandt, J. B. M. Camm, Weardalo Perfection, Mme de Graaff, Grandee, and other trumpet varieties, as well as the other sections. Silver Banksian medah New Naroissl Cornelia.— A rich bright yellow trumpet of splendid form, the perianth segments quite rounded. From Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech. Award of merit. Marie Hall.— A large Ajax, with a cream-coloured perianth and long straight deep primrose-yellow trumpet. From Messrs. R. H. Bath, Helen Countess of liadnor.—A very fine sulphur white trumpet. The perianth is of excellent shape, the seg- ments rounded, and the deep sulphur trumpet is long with a wide mouth. From Miss Willmott, V.M.H. Counte>iS of Stamford.— A beautiful milk-white trumpet of medium size, and of very good shape. From E. M, Crosrteld, Esq., Wrexham. Award of merit. Banzai.— A large Ajax variety, with spreading cream* coloured perianth and primrose-yellow trumpet, with wide-frilled mouth. From E. M. Crosfleld, Esq. Award of nitvit. All award of merit was also given to Narcissus William Foster, shown by Miss Katherine Spurrell, Norwich, but we were unable to find it. Floral Committee. Present: Mr. W. Marshall (chairman), Messrs, C. T. Diuery, George Nicholson, J. W. Barr, R. Wilson Ker, R. C Notcutt, Charles E. Pearson, C. J. Salter, William Howe, J. Jennings, Charles Dixon, Charles Jefferies, William Cuthbertson, W. P. Thomson, H. J. Cutbush, E. H. Jenkins, W. J. James, George Paul, Gcrge Gordon^ Charles Blick, R. Hooper Pe'trson, and Uarry Turner. Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, contributed a miscellaneous exhibit of Cinerarias, hybrid Gerberas, Clerodendron myrmecophilum, with a pyramidal spike of pale orange fiowers; blue Hydrangeas; Medinilla mag- iiillca grandiflora, very telling, with drooping racemes of pink flowers supported by pink bracts; Ruodudendron Williarasii, white fiowers in compact trusses; and the scarlet Kalanchoe felthamensis. Undoubtedly the most interesting plant in this group was the long-looked-for Meconupsis intesrifolia from Western Chhia and Thibet. The huge pale yellow Tulip-like blossoms are borne singly on stuut stems IS inches long, the long, lance-shaped leaves of 1 foot long covered thinly with brownish hairs. The blossoms are as large as a Tulip of the largest size, and apparently remain long in the bud state, requiring sun and warmth to expand them. Messrs. Cutbush and Son, IliRhgate, staged a most interesting lot of Primulas and Auriculas, with Lilies and other plants. Nearly all sections of the Primrose family were well represented. Very beautiful, too, were the alpine and show and fancy Auriculas. LiUea and Acen la the background gave a finish to the whole. ^fey- GARDEN No. 1746.— Vol. LXVII. May 6, 1905. HARDY VINES FOR COTTAGES. WE shall never forget the pleasant impression when first seeing a cottage in Worcestershire a good many years ago. The south and west sides were covered with well-trained Vines, which at the time were bearing a bounteous crop of small bunches of fairly developed, amber-coloured berries. This was our first introduction to the Vine as a hardy fruit grown in the open air in England. We have seen a good many since, but not one showed so conspicuously the result of such suc- cessful culture. We were doubtful about the flavour, and on expressing this to the owner (Mr. John Wall, a retired farmer and fruit grower) he very soon relieved our doubts by an invitation to taste a sample. The variety was the Royal Muscadine, and those who enjoy the sweet flavour of this Grape when well grown and properly ripened will not need to be told that the Grapes were delicious. Before deciding on planting this or any other hardy Vine against the south and west walla of our houses, the question must first be well considered whether the climate of the parts we are living in is sufficiently mild to justify the hope that the Vine will succeed if planted. As stated above, it will succeed well in Worcestershire. This being so, it will do so equally as well in Hereford, Gloucester, Hants, and Dorset, and, indeed, with good culture, in most parts this side of the Trent, and, it need scarcely be added, in all the home counties round London. One great advantage this Vine possesses is the fact that it does not resent so much the atmosphere of towns, as not far from the heart of London good examples of out-of- door Grapes are grown and occasionally exhibited. To those who wish to combine utility with interest and beauty in the beautifying of the walls of their homes, the Vine is much to be commended. Its delicate pale green growth in summer, and the rich- ness of the autumnal colouring of its foliage, place it on a level with, the choicest of climbing plants, with the great advantage of a profitable crop. The public, we are afraid, have an idea that it is diflicult to grow such Vines successfully. The fact of the matter is, they are very easily grown, and once a few essential points, which shall be men- tioned, are ove''come, nothing is simpler. Now is the best time of the year to plant the Vines. The aspect, as mentioned before, should be south, but the Vines will succeed when planted facing west or south-west. As to soil, this presents no great difficulties. Where the ordinary soil of the garden is of fair quality and depth, and is well drained, this will answer every purpose. If the sub- soil is gravel or sand no further drainage is necessary, but if on clay or marl, or any other close material through which water cannot easily pass, then artificial drainage must be provided. The border should be .3 feet wide, and be trenched 18 inches or 2 feet deep, according to the depth of soil there may be, before the Vines are planted, adding a small quantity of turfy loam and a dressing of lime as the trenching proceeds. The young Vines when procured from the nurseryman will have only one slender stem. In planting the Vine should be turned out of its pot with care, so as not to injure any of its roots. The bottom crocks must be taken away, and the points of the roots round the sides gently raised and liberated before planting. The bole of earth which surrounds the roots must not be broken, but planted whole, and deep enough for the surface of it to be buried in the soil 2 inches when the planting is finished. Vines should be planted in moderately dry weather, and the soil made firm by treading whilst the planting is proceeding. The young Vine will start away freely in this well-dis- turbed soil, and once it has established itself, say in two or three years, the roots will take care of themselves for the future by extending into the surrounding soil, absorbing therefrom sufficient sustenance without much further trouble or labour to the grower. As soon as planted the Vine should be well watered and pruned back to within three buds of its base. As soon as the Vine begins to grow these buds will form young shoots. The terminal one should be trained upright, and the two lower ones on either side must be trained horizontally for 18 inches, and then perpendicular, so as to form three upright stems to the Vine, which shape it will retain until it reaches the top of the wall, and afterwards permanently. Every Viae should then have three upright branches, leaving 18 inches of space between branch and branch, and neces.sitating the Vines being planted 4i feet apart. By the end of the summer the shoots will have made a fair growth (but not strong the first year). (To be continued.) DEAN HOLE MEMORIAL FUND. A SHORT time ago an appeal was made by the National Rose Society to perpetuate the memory of its late president, the Dean of Rochester, by some fitting memorial. It is now proposed to enlarge the scope of the memorial, and with this intention a second appeal is about to be issued, with the object of raising a sum of £500. One paragraph in the appeal is as follows : " To perpetuate his memory is a duty devolving on all rosarians. That duty the National Rose Society is willing to undertake, provided assistance be forthcoming in response to this appeal. The extended scheme which is now proposed is an enlargement of the original idea. The society desires to appeal to all lovers of the Rose, of the Dean, his books, and his work for help to raise the sum of at least Five Hundred Pounds (£500). The sum raised it is pro- posed to invest in the names of trustees appointed by the National Rose Society, who, from the interest thereof, shall make awards of merit, as the occasion may arise, to such person who by cultural skill, research, literary work, or any other way other than by exhi- bits (save in exceptional circumstances) shall, in the opinion of the trustees, confirmed by the National Rose Society, have done some- thing for the advancement of the Rose worthy of special recognition. The awards will take the form of a grant of money, or a medal, and will be made irrespective of nationality. In other words, the application of the fund will not be confined to members of the National Rose Society— it will be international." The list is headed by a subscription of ten guineas from the president, Mr. Charles E. Shea, and we hope. that the required sum will be soon forthcoming. This will mean increased work for the excellent secretary, Mr. Edward Mawley, but all who are aware of his labour of love in the interests of the society know how willingly this will be undertaken. We mention this as, owing to the resignation of Mr. Haywood, the treasurer for many years, Mr. Mawley is happy in having as his new co-worker a treasurer that will carry on the same disinterested work as his predecessor. The new treasurer is Mr. H. E. Molyneux, who is not only a keen grower and judge of Roses, but devoted to the National Rose Society. Few amateurs have given their 264 THE GARDEN. [May 6, 1905. leisure time in a busy life to the society so willingly as Mr. Molyneux, and the committee is to be congratulated on their wise choice for so important a post. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. MAY. Open to Both PROFESsioisrAL and AlIATEUE GaEDENEES. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A -GUINEA ■will be given for the best ans'wers to the questions published below. I. — Name the best twelve distinct Hybrid Tea or Hybrid Perpetual Koses for garden decoration, taking into con- sideration freedom and length of flowering, and hardiness of consti- tution. Two distinct Roses of each of the six following colours must be selected : White, flesh, yellow or cream, pink, cherry or light red, and scarlet or dark red. Exclude new Roses of 1904-5. II. — A hedge of Roses is required to form a protection against the north-east wind in a very exposed position. Name the Rose you would select for this purpose, and state method of planting, pruning for first year, and number of plants required to the 10-feet run ; when fully grown the hedge should be about 3 feet 6 inches high. The protective quality of the hedge will be the first consideration; freedom of flower and decorative quality the second. III. — Give the names of six Roses, rapid climbers, best adapted for climbing into old trees, and state method of planting and pruning for first year. IV. — A sunken lawn, roughly 1,000 square feet in size, well protected from winds and midday sun, and in a generally favourable position, subsoil clayey loam, is to be converted into a Rose garden. Sketch out design of not more than twelve beds and not less than eight, leaving four grass paths — north, south, east, and west —and number beds 1 , 2, 3, &c. V. — Name dwarf Tea Roses for said beds, one variety to each bed. Considera- tion must be given to contrast in colour and habit of growth of varie- ties ; freedom of flower essential, and no tender varieties should be used. VI. — A similar list of Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, with similar conditions as the last query. VII. — A pergola leads from kitchen garden to above Rose garden, 80 feet long, with arches at every 8 feet. Ten distinct Roses are required (two pjlants to each arch). Give a list of the varieties you suggest as best for the purpose. The summer-flowering Roses may be used sparingly if thought desirable. General effect of whole when in flower must be considered. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. May9. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting; Horticultural Club : Mr. E. H. Wilson on " Journeyings in China." May 11. — Annual Dinner of the Royal Gar- deners' Orphan Fund, Hotel Cecil, 7 p.m. May 17. — Roj'al Botanic Society's Show, Regent's Park. May 23. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (TuHp Show). A COlOUPed plate of Phaius tuberculosus will be given with The Garden' next week. Japanese gardening-. — Among the new Fellows elected at the general meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society held on the •24th ult., were the Countess of Halsbury, the Hon. Mrs. Howard, Colonel John Baskeville, Lieutenant L. Hordern, R.N., Major Hildebrand, MR. H. B. MOLYNEUX. (Tha new hmwrary treasurer of the National Hose Society.) R.E., Captain R. Feilden, Mrs. Assheton Smith, and Mme. Bergman Osterberg. The local horti- cultural societies of Acton, Charlton, Chesterfield, and Egham were affiliated to the Royal Horti- cultural Society. Two papers on the application of .Japanese method to European horticulture had been received, but owing to want of time only that by Mr. James Hudson, V.M.H. , on " The Making of Japanese Gardens in England," was read. This was profusely illustrated by a fine series of lantern slides by Mr. Gregory of Croydon, and of enlarged photographs of the garden taken in various stages of growth. These pictures not only showed the formation of one of the most beautiful spots near London, but also illustrated both the rapidity of growth even during the first season, and the semi-tropical appearance thus created. Mr. Hudson pointed out that in the preparation of any site for a garden, the soil should be of the best description, and be well tilled beforehand. He described the way in which the .Japanese garden at Gunnersbury House, the residence of Mr. Leopold de Roth- schild, had been made under his direction during the past four years, and further explained that his own object had been to provide a garden after the Japanese style thai would be at its best in August, September, and October, when the family were in residence, and consequently spring flowers had not been available. He had not considered it necessary to adhere to the style of garden so often seen illustrated as representing Japanese gardens, and from photographs he had seen he believed this did not represent all the phases of Japanese gardens. From the results achieved at Gunnersbury it was evident that very many .Japanese plants might become popular in this country. Among the prmcipal of the many points which were most clearly and forcibly brought out by the lecturer, were that shelter should be pro- vided, that a liberal supply of water should be secured, and that shade-loving plants, as well as those loving sunshine, should be provided for. The other paper, by M. Albert Maumene of Paris, on " .Japanese Dwarf Trees and their Production and Treatment," w^s taken as read, and will, with that of Mr. Hudson's, be published in the Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society. In this paper M. Maumene describes the various forms of these trees in Japan, the different methods of raising and of training them, the varieties of plants most suitable for dwarfing, and their treatment in this country. The main points brought out were the unwearying patience and perseverance of the Japanese in producing these plants, and that the dwarfing is principally due to limiting the space available for the roots, and also reducing their number, and in providing a minimum supply of water and nourishment to maintain the life of the tree, while the twisting and curving also retarded the sap. The tress might be roughly classed as those which represent miniature reproductions of their natural appear- ances, and those which are twisted, curved and shaped to a certain preconceived idea. The next meeting and exhibition of the Royal Horticultural Society will be held at Vincent Square on Tuesday next, the 9th inst. , when lectures will be given by Mr. N. Hayashi on ".Japanese Horti- culture," and by Mr. R. E. Farrer on " Japanese Plants and Gardens," which he will illustrate by lantern slides, and it is hoped that on that occasion there will be a fine exhibition of Japanese trees and plants, which will then be at their best in this country. A fortnight later (on the 23rd inst.) the National Tulip Societj' will hold their annual show for the southern division in connexion with the society's fortnightly meeting and exhibition, and Mr. E. M. Holmes, F.L.S., will give a lecture on "Medicinal Plants, Old and New," illustrated with lantern slides. The great spring show of the society will be held in the gardens of the Inner Temple on the 30th and 3l8t inst., and June 1. Hybrid and other Orchids at Messrs. J. Veiteh and Sons' Nursery, Chelsea.— Some beautiful gains to the family were noted at this nursery recently, namely, Cattleya Mossiaj x gigas, the lip crum- pled or wavy at the edges, large in comparison with the sepals and petals and of a grand purple colour ; Lcelia digbyana x L. purpurata, a flower to which L. d. had imparted its singular- looking lip with its long fringes, whilst the deep purple tint of the latter was retained ; Cattleya Onone=C. Mossite and C. labiata, the sepals and petals like those of ordinary C. Mossia;, but the lip fringed and of a fine purple tint ; Lielio- Cattleya = C. Schrudera3 and L. flava, a charm- ing lemon-coloured self. Numerous species and varieties of Orchids were noted in the little show houses, of which a few may be of interest to the reader : Oncidium lowianum and 0. 1. grandi- florum in many examples of moderate sizes, and capitally bloomed ; 0. concolor, than which there is no more desirable yellow-flowered species ; 0. sarcodes, several plants with numerous flower spikes ; many very choice Odontoglossum crispum, 0. Edwardii, Lailio-Cattleya Highburyensis, Masdevallias in quantity, &o. — F. M. May 6, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 265 Weather Notes.— Mr. James Whitton, the supsrintendent of the Glasgow Parks and Curator of the Botanic Gardens, has published his "Meteorological Notes and Remarks" for 1904, together with some observations upon the general effects of the weather during that period upon vegetation. It appears that the rainfall of 19U4 was 34 '87 inches, slightly below the average, which, broadly speaking, is about 36 inches. March was the driest month with only r43 inches, though June nearly approached it with 1 -54 inches. The number of days on which no rain was registered was 163, while in 1903 the number was 138. Mr. Whitton remarks that growth began early, and, escaping spring frosts, was fairly continuous, though slow at first with the too dry atmosphere in May and June. The hay crop harvested better than was anticipated. Cereals were harvested under excellent condi- tions. Root crops improved greatly after midsummer. Tree and bush fruit crops were irregular, and below the average. Deciduous trees and shrubs on the whole were good. Mr. Whitton concludes that the season of 1904 may be considered to have been a good one for vegetation. A lost Orehid rediseoveped.— Every horticulturist in general and orchidist in parti- cular, all the world over, will be interested to learn that the "lost Orchid," Cypripedium fairrieanum, has been rediscovered. The dis- coverer is a European, an Englishman ; and he, with Mr. S. P. Chatterji, the well-known florist and nurseryman of Calcutta, have the secret of its natural habitat between them. They have a fine stock of plants, and will doubtless make the most of them in due course. They will now claim the reward of £2,000, says Indian Gar- dening, offered by a certain London firm of plant merchants, to any one who would rediscover the "lost Orchid." The locality where this Orchid was found remains a profound secret for the present, but suffice it to say that it was not found in the Garo Hills, its supposed natural habitat. There is no doubt at all as to the identity of the plant, as it has been submitted to Dr. Prain, superintendent of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Calcutta. This is probably the most important and sensational announcement that the horticul- tural and botanical world has received for many years. The plant was lost to the world in 1876, and may be said to be practically extinct in Europe at the present time. Chelsea Physic Garden.— The first report of the committee of management of this garden has been published. Some interesting particulars about the history of this garden are given. The site was secured in 1673 by the Apothecaries' Society at an annual rent of £5, on a lease of sixty-one years, from Mr. Charles Cheyne. In 1697 the lease was extended for a further sixty years, but in 1712 the freehold of the garden changed hands, Dr. Hans Sloane having purchased the Manor of Chelsea from Lord Cheyne. In 1722 Sir Hans Sloane conveyed the garden to the Apothecaries' Society, who in 1722 appointed Mr. Philip Miller as head gardener. In 1732 the society spent nearly £2,000 on glass houses, and in 1733 erected as a monument of fjratitude to Sir Hans Sloane the statue by Rysbrach which now stands in the garden. At the commencement of the latter half of the nineteenth century the garden was in full work ; in 1862 it was largely used by medical students. Some few years ago the trustees of the London Parochial Charities were created the trustees of the garden, and were charged with the care of the property and funds, and a committee was appointed to superintend the management of the garden. Since 1899, when the committee first sat, £6,000 has been spent in new buildings and repairs and alterations. A lecture room, with laboratory underneath, and a residence for the curator (Mr. W. Hales), at a cost of £3,350, and for new glass houses and pits, at a cost of £2,040, have been built. The buildings were opened by Eirl Cadogan in 1902. During 1904, 1,130 people visited the garden, most of them being teachers and students. The laboratory is chiefly used by students of the Royal College of Science. Specimens for teaching and examinations are supplied throughout the year to the University of London, Royal College of Science, and other institutions. The committee express their highest approbation of the work of Mr. Hales, the curator. The " COPeless " Apple.— This interest- ing fruit was shown by Messrs. R. Veitch and Sons of Exeter before the fruit committee at a recent meeting. The fruits were rather small, had open sunken eyes, and slightly coloured skin ; when cut into halves in each case the core was found, but quite closed up, soft and seedless. Still it was evident its title as " coreless " is a misnomer. The quality of the flesh was very indifferent. The assumption is that a coreless variety would be impervious to the attacks of the codlin moth, but the variety in question has flowers necessarily, and the open eye indicated that the blooms did not materially differ from those of any other Apple. As a seedless variety is incapable of being improved by cross-fertilisa- tion, it is evident that no development may be looked for unless it should be found practicable some day to secure a seedless sport from such a first-class Apple as Cox's Orange Pippin. — A. D. THE DANCING WTIND. Now all the world is dancing, For the merry wind doth play A tune of spring on a golden string Aa he goes upon his way. The great trees dance together, And bend, as the wind sweeps by, To kiss his feet, where the Violets sweet Peep out at the windy sky. And in the spreading meadows The ranks of the fresh green grass Dance to and fro as the wind doth blow, And laugh to hear him pass. The white clouds, too, are dancing Across the wild spring sky, But he drives them home, when they fain would roam, To the west where the sun will die. The Daffodils and Lilies Beside the garden wall Dance to his song the whole day long, Till evening shadows fall. And when the world is sleeping. And stars their light have shown. The wild wind sings to his golden strings And dances all alone. Sydney HESSELKiaaE. Propagating English Walnuts.— There is no better way of increasing the English Walnut than by sowing the nuts. Kept moist from the time of collecting them until spring, they are fairly sure to grow, and they soon make a good growth. In damp deep soil the seedlings make but a long tap root, but it is claimed, and looks reasonable, that in light soil there is much less tap root and more fibrous ones, and this is said to be true of all nut tree seedlings. It is worth trying, as the lack of fibres is what makes the transplanting of these seedlings so difficult. The thin shelled and other varietal forms of the English Walnut cannot be relied on to come quite true when grown from nuts, and grafting has to be done to increase them. The common English is used for stocks, although it is claimed that the black Walnut makes a good stock for them. The grafting is done by scraping away the soil from around the stocks and grafting them well into the crown of the plants. This would be a good time to make a trial of it, as with scions cut now and held back a week or two, it would find the sap rising in the stocks. — The Florists' Exchange (New York). Syon House Prolifle Potato— The tubers of this Potato, shown at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society by Mr. J. B. Joel, Potter's Bar, were so fine that some thought they could hardly be the same. As Mr. .Joel had his stock originally from Syon, and has grown it consecutively for eight years, the sample was, indeed, a remarkable one. Various members of the fruit committee spoke in high praise of the variety, and having regard to its good reputation, and the fact that it had already received at Chiswick an award of merit, a first-class cer- tificate, now an unusual honour for a Potato, was unanimously awarded. This award is thus made only after the variety has been well proved. It is a capital garden variety. — A. D. Tender shrubs. — Since reading the various articles on Garrya elliptica, I should like to draw the attention of the readers of The Garden to the fact that in this neighbourhood there are to be found some exceedingly fine specimens of Buddleia globoaa. We have here a large plant of it, and when in flower it is a picture. I have also seen one recently in the gardens of Mr. Kemp Welsh at Sopley Park, some three or four miles away, which has attained an enormous size, having been allowed to grow freely. Buddleia Colvillei is a much better sort to grow, inasmuch as it is hardier than globosa, and evergreen. The foliage is silvery grey, and the flowers large and rose coloured. Planted against a south-west wall it should thrive well in sheltered districts if slight protection is given in the winter. Erica arborea is now flowering in this neighbourhood, and is a charming plant. This is also averse to cold, and only succeeds in warm situations, where it forms a large bush. The sweet fragrance of the flowers can be detected many yards away. It requires peaty soil, and a rather moist corner. — G. Burrows, Avon Castle Gardens, Bingwood, Hants. Botanical Society of Edinburgh. The monthly meeting was held on the 13th ult., Professor Balfour presiding. The Glenshee Hepaticffi were dealt with in a paper by Mr. W. Young, while Mr. G. West exhibited many fine specimens in illustration of his communication on the Aquatic Flora of the Loch Ness district. Mr. W. B. Boyd showed Andromeda hypnoides in fine flower, Saxifraga luteo-viridis, and a remarkable green double Snowdrop. A good example of one of Mr. P. Murray Thomson's seedling double Polyanthuses was brought by Mr. Alex. Cowan from his garden at Penicuik. From Mr. Whytook, Dalkeith Palace Gardens, came an extensive series of well-grown spring flowers, also Apples to illustrate methods of keeping. Many Primulas and Saxifragas, &e. , were sent from the Royal Botanic Garden, Edin- burgh, and observations on these were made by Mr. Harrow. Several rare Mosses were also exhibited. Blairgowrie and Rattray Horti- cultural Society.- A summary of the horticultural lectures to be delivered under the auspices of the Blairgowrie School Board in 1905 have been published. The lectures included are " Roses for Pleasure and Profit," by Mr. James Simpson, Cambustay Nurseries, Broughty Ferry ; "Tomato Growing for Profit," by Mr. G. R. Beale, Manor Farm, Blairgowrie ; "Prime Factors in Successful Fruit Culture," by Mr. D. Storrie, Glencarse Nurseries, Perth; "Vege- tables : A Profitable Crop," by Mr. John Laing, The Gardens, Craighall. This society exists for the encouragement of gardening in the district. All interested directly or indirectly are invited to become members and assist in the work. The secretary is Mr. D. G. Monair, Blairgowrie. National Chrysanthemum Society. — The annual report states that this society still maintains a foremost position among the special societies having for their object the culture of some particular flower. The Chrysan- themum, especially as represented by the large exhibition Japanese varieties, continues as popular as ever, while the growth in the commercial 266 THE GARDEN. [May 6, 1905. value of the flower as a market and decorative Fubject has been highly satisfactory. The finan- cial condition of the society is very good. Arrangements have been made wilh the Crystal Palace Company for three exhibitions to take place at Sydenham in the present year. The dates are: October 4 and 5, November 1, 2, and 3, and December 6 and 7. The experiment of holding an exhibition of market Chrysanthe- mums at Essex Hall, on December 14, proved a distinct and gratif3'ing success, ami excellent collections were staged, while the novelty of the exhibition attracted a good deal of public interest. The Nupsepymen, Market Gar- deners', and General Hailstorm Insurance Corporation, Limited.— The tenth annual general meeting of lhi» cinipiiny was held at the registered offices, 41 and 42, King Street, Covent Garden, W.C. , on Friday, the 7lh ult., when Mr. Harry J. Veitch presided. T he progress of the company is most marked, the income for the year having increased to £2,964 83. Id. The assets of the company now amount to £20 220 15^. 4d., and the reserve fund stands at £9,(J00. The usual dividend of 5 per cent, and bonus of 2i per cent, was agreed to. It was noted that the company still had the same chair- man, directors, and secretary as at its formation. Hanley Horticultural Fete will be held on Wednesday and Thursday, July .5 and 6. A very good schedule of prizes has been arranged, plants, Roses, cut flowers, fruit, and vegetables being well provided for. The secretary is Mr. William Poulson, Town Hall, Hanlej'. TREES AND SHRUBS. RHODODENDRON CILIATUM. TO see this Rhododendron at its best in this country one has to visit the Cornish gardens in March or early April. It is doubtful if it be finer even on its native mountains in Sikkiin than it is in Cornwall. While the books give its height as 2 feet to 4 feet in its native state, it certainly grows at least 6 feet high in this country. It is said to inhabit moist rocky places on the Sikkim Himalaya at altitudes of 9,000 feet to 10,000 feet. Of the species trom that region it is one of the hardiest. In the London district it does not get injured by frost, but it grows slowly. It sets its flower-buds in great abundance, and, given suitable weather in early April, makes one of the most beautiful of outdoor shrubs at that season. It must be said, however, that an untoward frost will destroy much of its beauty. Among Himalayan Rhododendrons it is interesting historically as the first of the Sikkim species introduced by Sir J. Hooker that flowered in Britain. Seeds were sent to Kew in 1850, and plants flowered in March, 1852. In the bud state the flowers are of a beautiful rosy red ; when they open they are pale pink ; and as they become older get nearly white. Each flower is about 2i inches across, the corolla lobes spreading oi)en. The plant is most beautiful when half the flowers are open, the other half still in bud. The name " cilia turn" refers to the bristly hairs that fringe the leaf - margins ; the young shoots also are bristly. Hybridisers have made some use of this species. Of hardy varieties pr;eco.\ and Early Gem are the best known of its progeny, but there are also several good greenhotise varie- ties that have been derived from it. R, ci latum itself makes a very charming display as a greenhouse plant, as may be seen by a group in the Himalayan house at Kew, where it receives no artificial heat, but where, of course, its flowers are free from danger of iniury by frost. Still, I do not think that under glass the flowers or flower-buds are ever so richly tinged with rose as they are in the open. If grown in the open air a sheltered nook should be chosen for it, and the soil should be sandy peat. A position with a western > exposure only is best, so that the plants may be shielded from the early morning sun that , so frequently follows a frosty night in spring, and often injures flower-buds that would escape if they were allowed to thaw in the shade. W. J. Bean. KUODODENDRON CILIATDM IN THE liARDES OF MR. CRISP, FRIARS PARK, HENLEY. NOTES FROM A SUSSEX HEATH GARDEN. Few things are more attractive during the whole year than a collection of Heaths. To my raiijd they look sadly out of place when planted as edgings to trim beds, &c. Here we have them planted in groups of varying size and shape over a series of undulations, which provide some \ shelter for the tender varieties on their southern side, and cool moist positions for E. ciliaris and others on the north. Grassy paths of a good width, whose edges are covered by the encroach- ing Heath, afford a means of approach. It is very rare indeed to find this part of the garden without some plant in bloom. With the advent of December the lingering flowers on the Men- ziesia.i. Erica vagans, and E. ciliaris faded away, but the dark green masses of that earliest of Heaths, E. raediterranea hybrida, had already become studded with light green buds, which gradually developed a light and then a deeper tinge of lilac, until a few warm days caused them to open fully and display their chocolate-coloured anthers. A mass of the Winter Heath, E. carnea, planted on a southern slope, commenced to flower on New Year's Daj', and is only now on the wane. Daphne Mezereum, although it cannot claim relationship, associates well with these Heaths. Many flowers are at their best when half open. E. lusitanica or codonodes is one of these ; the bright green plumy growths, covered with pearly while and pink bells, make a beautiful contrast. Erica arborea is less beautiful, but hardier — apparently because it completes its growth earlier — and its m3'riads of white bells are produced later, but more freely. We have it planted oi» the i-ummit of some steep banks to shelter E. australis, which was planted on the sunny side some two years ago. These have made good progress, adding 2 feet to their stature in that time. A few branches of evergreens have been placed amongst them each winter bj' way of protection, but although the immature tips have been exposed they have never been injured by frost. Last spring the flowers were of a bright rosy pink, but this season, although the plants are stronger and quite healthy, the flowers are of a much paler shade, scarcely deeper than those of E. raediterranea hybrida. The neat bushes of Pieris (Andro- meda) japonica, whose gloss}' foliage and long pendulous clusters of creamy flowers have formed a back- ground for the rather naked mauve- tinted Rhodora canadensis, suffered severely from frost on April V, the reddish-coloured tips of the new growth being destroyed at the same time as the flowers. Pieris flori- bunda and P. forraosa are almost uninjured, the growth on the latter having hirdly commenced. The native Andromeda polifolia, though but little grown, is quite a gem. It is a pity some hybridist does not combine the delicate pink of its blossoms with the freer and more showy Pieris. Erica hibernica and E. h. glauca are now in flower, their rather dull, greyish flowers being rendered con- spicuous by the dark anthers. E. mediterranea, flowering from the axils of the leaves in the same way, but later, and of a more rosy tint, May 6, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 267 is yet in bud. This variety is sometimes rather difficult to obtain, and is frequently confounded with E. australia, but is easily dis- tinguished by its axillary flowers, those of the latter being larger, more rosy, and borne in terminal clusters. The slow-growing Bryanthus empelriformis is covered with its rather large pink buds. Our first planting of this was made on a flat, low-lying piece of ground, and although it flowers well it makes but little growth. The last has been made on higher ground where the water can drain away, and the plants certainly have a healthier look. Erica aurea and E. cuprea have added consider- ably to the general effect, on account of the golden and coppery tints of their foliage ; this is even more noticeable when they are placed near the bright green E. striota. J. Comber. The Gardens, Nymans, Crawley. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) NON-BUESTING CARNATIONS. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] SI R, — I have been much interested in reading the letter from Mr. Hemsley in your issue of the 8th ult. on " Non- bursting Carnations." The object appears to be to show that blooms from lateral shoots are less liable to burst than those from the main stem. Mr. Hemsley speaks of thirteen perfect blooms from lateral shoots of one plant, but, further, he states that, with regard to border varieties, in most instances to stop a main shoot means to lose a season's flowering. Evidently much depends on the " in most instances." I should like to know which border varieties may be stopped, and how the quantity and quality of bloom will be affected. Another point, Mr. Hemsley, speaking of yellow varieties, says : " I have found Germaniado much better when grown on a second year. For pot work only two year old plants have ever been satisfactory." Djes the latter sentence apply to Oermania only, to yellows in general, or to other classes also ? I have always been told that it is better to get j'oung plants each season, so I have thrown away my last year's stock. Hessle. E. C. Ashmore. [The great dilTerence between these winter- flowering and border Carnations is that while in the winter varieties the side shoots follow on in quick succession and flower in a month or so after the main stems have finished, in border varieties the main shoots only flower. All the side shoots, which are produced from the base, fail to throw up flower-stems until the following season. Take the old Crimson Clove, which used to be grown in pots for market, even when brought on early under glass only the main stems produced blooms. Gloire de Nancy, the white Clove, Mary Morris ,„ EUNNER BEANS.-Seed of this favourite but rather tender vegetable may now be planted. Eunner Beans are not shy gi-owers, but to ensure a good crop they should be planted where the soil is rich and open, in a Pos t o° sheltered from trying autumn winds, with full exposure to sun and air. If more rows than one must be planted they should, where possible, be rather o^.^'' 12 feet apart^ Fix the Bean rods firmly in the ground 18 nches from stake to stake. For extra support fix a stronger rod here and there, then interlace with m"re 'od^ so that the support may be strong enough to carry 'he full crop Choice must be made of suitable ■'"ds according to the height which the Eunners are V°'e»ded to be grown. Plant a seed at the base of each rod. Eunner Beans, unlike most vegetables, are ornamental as well as useful and will quickly turn an unsightly object into a thing of beauty. For covering an old trellis or paling there is no more suitable creeper than the Eunner Bean with its clinging stems and bright scarlet flowers As a fao, in many parts of Scotland it is grown more for ornamental than culinary purposes, most Seotch people apparently not realising how very wholesome its green pods are. sS ton°s A^variety bears pods of splendid quality and immense size. Scarlet or Eed Bough (old sort) is also ''salad's -Xslh^e -weather gets warmer these will be more tn request. To keep up the supply ?=ake sowings frequently of such sorts as Neapolitan, A I "ie\ ear Bound, and Commodore Nutt. All are valuable simmer kinds They should be grown on good ground, and kept moist durinc dry weather. Thin out former sowings to 4 inches or 6 inches torn plant to plant, and stir the surface with a Dutch hoe. Tie up Cos varieties to ensure crisp and tender hearts. Sow more Eadishes on a ^ooUpot^^^^^^ The Gardeiis, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. Excellent Home-gbown Onions. Mr Gray, Woolverton Manor Gardens, St. Lawrence, Isle of Wight, sends excellent samples of the varieties of Onions named in the following interesting note: "I was very much interested in Mr. Watson's note on Onions. ISo doubt the sowing of Onions under glass has a tendency to increase their size, but I see no reason why out- door Onions should not do fairly well, otherwise 274 THE GARDEN. (May G, ly05. where do our market gardeners get the fine Onions we see them with. 1 have grown Onions as large as a tea saucer from seed sown in the open. I may say I have no convenience for sowing inside. I sowed the seed last year on February "25, and stored them on the floor of a hay loft on September 20. Of course, we have used the largest for the house, but we have a nice quantity left. I am sending you a sample of the three varieties I grow, namely, Improved Reading, Rousham Park Hero, and Sutton's Long Keeping, and you will see they have kept well. They were taken from the rest, which are all in about the same condition. This year I sowed them on February 13, and they are very fine, about ]J inches high. I am antici- pating a good crop from them. The garden faces due south-west, and is very stony. It is fully exposed to the south-west gales, and is quite close to the sea." Spring Flowers from Ireland. From The Grange, Stillorgan, Ireland, Mrs. George Darley sends a delightful boxful of spring flowers. Among them are Daffodils in variety, some very fine Polyanthuses, the flowers large, of distinct colours, and finely produced ; and Pansies and Violas in beautiful shades of colour. Perhaps the finest bunch is that of the Gen- tianella, whose rich blue tubular flowers are very beautiful. The double Arabia albida was also sent. Altogether a collection of bright and useful spring flowers. FIG PINGO DE MEL. Beautiful Roses from Messrs. R. D. Whitmee and Co. We have received from this firm, who live at The Rose Nurseries, Sutton-at-Honey, Kent, perfect flowers of Catherine Mermet, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Liberty, La France, Bridesmaid, and General Jacqueminot. We have never seen flowers so fine in form and colour. Messrs. Whitmee also write: "Other sorts we grow largely are Caroline Testout, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Mrs. .lohn Laing, Ulrich Brunner, Perle des Jardins, Sunset, Sunrise, Mrs. W. J. Grant, and Niphetos. " not practise the method of stopping the young growths of trees that are planted out, except in the case of young trees where I want plenty of basal growths. A. Cheffins. Neivbold Revel Oar dens, Rvgby. THE FRUIT GARDEN. FIG TREE PINGO DE MEL. 1AM sending herewith a photograph of a Fig tree Pingo de Mel. It was planted out in the Fig house last December from a 10 inch pot in a restricted border of about \h square yards, and about 1.5 inches deep, of three parts good loam to one of old mortar rubble ; this was on a good drainage of broken bricks. In planting the roots were disentangled, cut back, and laid out evenly, the soil being then made firm. The tree was well watered and received no more until the fruits were developing freely. From that time the roots were never allowed to get dry. The house was closed for forcing the first week in January, with a night temperature of about A(f. This was gradually increased until March 20, and is now kept from 5.5° to Go', with a good rise during the day with sun- heat, the tree and hou?e being syringed morning and afternoon. There are now forty- nine good fruits of medium size on the tree. Trained near the roof of the same house is an old tree of the variety Brown Turkey, covering a space of about 2G0 square feet, and carrying a first crop of over 400 fruits, which are somewhat larger than the former variety, but judging by ajjpearances the Pingo de Mel should ripen its fruits about a fortnight in advance of Brown Turkey. I may add, I do PPOFITABLE AND UNPROFITABLE APPLES. (Continued.) Among dessert varieties those that have proved to be most conjtant are Allington Pippin, which is remarkably handsome, and Cox's Orange Pippin, which here colours splendidly. Worcester Pear- main is invariably prolific, and valuable chiefly on that account. ISraddick's Nonpariel is also reliable and very useful early in the year. Duchess of Oldenburgh is one of the best croppers, it is aUo very handsome ; these, however, con- stitute its chief merits. Ribston Pippin, Claygate Pearmain, and Egremont Russet have each proved to be regular though at no time very heavy croppers. Sturmer Pippin and Brownlee's Russet, on the other hand, are constant heavy bearers, the former being the best flavoured, though both are valuable owing to being very late keepers. American Mother and King of the Pippins must not be overlooked, for they are regular free croppers. The above have been singled out as the most profitable Apples that we possess, in so far as it applies to bearing a crop of fruit, though we have other valuable kinds that closely rival them in this respect. Those named can, at any rate, be depended upon as prolific croppers in this district. Unprofitable Apples. The unprofitable or shy-bearing kinds are as follows: Gloria Mundi is one of the worst, and though it has been in a degree improved by root pruning, it is, nevertheless, still not worth its room. Until last year, when it bore fairly well, Striped Beaufin has also been a very shy cropper, but it may be remarked that Mr. .1. Watkins of Hereford thinks hiehly of it when grown as a standard. Tyler's Kernel has also been a very shy bearer, not having carried a really good crop, though it usually has a light one. So far we have not been altogether satisfied with either Braniley's Seedling orlJIenheim Orange, yet they have improved by being root pruned, and are more promising now than when the trees were younger. They are, however, more suitable for standards than for bushes. Golden Noble and Ross Nonpareil were failures owing to canker, and have been uprooted. Lady Sudeley, Red Astrachan, and Irish Peach have proved to be very shy bearers. Lord Burghley has so far been practically fruitless, but we are looking forward for a change this j'ear, as the trees appear now to be thickly studded with fruit buds. Until last year, when the trees bore heavy crops and the fruit was much thinned, Annie Elizabeth had not been satisfactorv. T. Coombek. Thr Hendre Gardens, Monmouth. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and A.navrerB.—The Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no matterwhat the branch of gardening may be, ajui vnth that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tioTu should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of THE GARDEN, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name a7id address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paver. Legal Points.— H'e are prepared to annwer qmstions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The qwstioiut should be as clear and explicit as possible, so that there can be no doiiM as to the point of the qwstion. Answers will be found in a separate column headed "Legal Points." Name of Insfct (C. -1. i ).— The insect you enclosed is a male specimen of one of the common water beetles (I)ytisens marginalis), which no doubt got into your greenhouse by mistake. These insects often fly about, and it is supposed that they sometimes mistake glass bouses for water, as they are known to frequently drop on to them. I do not suppose there are any more in your house, but if there are they will do no harm. — G. S. S. Fungus on Camellia Leaves (/i. //oZ/o-ikZ). — The fungus on your Cimellia leaves is Funiago vagans, commonly known as the sooty mould of the Orange. It is not parasitic on the leaves but on the honeydew deposited by aphides or scale May 6, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 275 insects. If you destroy these insects you will not be troubled by the fungus. You will find the insects on the undersides of the leaves just above those which are covered by the fungus ; the honey- dew drops from the insects. Yuu can easily wash the fungus off with a little warm soap and water. Insect o;j Lawn (R. S. Smallman). — The insect yuu find burrowing in your lawn, of which you enclosed a female specimen, is one of the buriowiug bees (Andrena fulva). They are quite harmless in every way, the holes they make are merely to form chambers in which they deposit their eggs, placing enough food with each grub to last iis lifetime, so they do not feed on the roots of the grass. RosK Shoots Diseased (Sir G. Campbell). — The shoots of your Roses are attacked by a fungus (Botryosphseria diplodia), a by no means uncommon pest. The best remedy is to cut olf and burn the infested shoots, so as to prevent it spreading. No application of fungicides is of any use, unless they were applied at the time the spores were being liberated, as the growing portions of the fungus are in the tissues of the shoots. A CtJBions Primrose (Brancaster). — The curious leafy appearance of the calyx is some- what couinion with the Primrose and its varieties. It has been given the name of P. vulgaris var. macrocalyx, and is an instance of what is termed the phyllody of the calyx, or the assumption by the calyx of leaf-like characters. No cause is known to be responsible for this change, and certain plants will retain the character for an indefinite time, coming up year after year till the plant dies. This variety may be propagated by division of the root, but sometimes on removal to fresh ground the flowers revert to their normal character, although this is not always the case. The Cowslip also sometimes assumes this abnor- mal character, but hardly to the extent of that in the Primrose, having merely a much-inflated calyx. Further information on this and other kindred subjects may be found in " Vegetable Teretology," by Dr. Masters. HoLLOW-STEMMKD MUSHROOMS (A. B. Camhs). As regards the cause of the hollowiiess of the stems of some of the Mushrooms (with con- sequent bitter taste), while others on the same bed and from the same spawn are all that can be desired, this only goes to show hnw difficult it is to account for the eccentric behaviour of the Mushroom when grown under artificial conditions. It is a common experience to come across Mush- rooms affected in the tame way. This has generally happened in our experience after the bed has been bearing for some considerable time, and we have usually found on examining the bed in that part wheie the hollow ones grow that that part was over dry, and to this we have attributed the cause. Evidently in your case it is not the fault of the spawn, and therefore must be attributed to some adverse condition of the manure, atmosphere, or other surrounding con- ditions. You have evidently an excellent strain of Cineraria stellata, the self-coloured flowers sent being of large size and a beautiful soft mauve colour. Ipomosa Rubro-c^rulea (M.). — (1) This is of too delicate a nature to succeed out of doors in the London district, as you will understand from the fact that it is a native of Southern Mexico. The notes in The Garden, where it is described as doing well out of doors, are mainly from especially favoured districts in the south-west of England, where so many plants that need greenhouse treatment in the neighbourhood of London thrive out of doors. (2) Given a suitable temperature there would be no difficulty in growing this Ipomcea in boxes such as those specified by you. (3) This Ipomoea is less vigorous than some of the others, for which reason 1 foot between each plant will be sufficient. (4) Ipomceas and Con- volvuluses both belong to the natural order ConvolvulaceiB, and are only separated from each other by slight botanical diHe-rences ; indeed, many species are by some authorities placed in the first genus, and by others in the second. A good form of Convolvulus major would, under the conditions you name, be mure likely to give satisfaction than Ipomcea rubro-CEerulea, though when flourishing this last is so beautiful as to well merit all that has been said in its favour. Planting Crimson Rambler Rose [Q.). — It is now decidedly too late to plant a Crimson Rambler Hose in order to prune it back hard, as the growth will already be loo far advanced. Strorig examples of this Rose are, however, kept in pots by many nurserymen, and these may of course be planted (but not cut back) at any time. If planted now it will become established before winter, and consequently break away freely when cut back next season. Training EOR a Gardener (S. D.). — Enquiries by a young gardener as to the best method of training to undergo in order to obtain a good knowledge of the profession, the first question is. Would it injure a fellow to serve one year in a garden and men leave and serve two years in some botanic garden ? We do not know the age of the enquirer, what previous experience he may have had, or the nature and extent of the garden in which he is employed. Neither does our young friend say whether he wishes to qualify as a private gardener, nurseryman, or for a position in a public park, &c. However, we will conclude that he is qualifying for the first, and that the garden he is now in is of moderate extent, and that good gardening is generally well repre- sented in it. In that case we should advise his ' staying where he is for at least two years to become well grounded in the practical work of the garden, by that we mean the rough and the smooth of it, such as digging, staking, and other manual labour every young gardener ought to well master in the initial stage of his career. The next question is. Is a botanical garden a good place to serve one's time in ? If you wish to qualify for a botanical gardener, yes ; but if as a private gardener, no. We suppose that it is the last you are proposing to follow. In that case. after spending two years in your first place, and where you will have been well grounded in most of the elementary lessons in gardening, we should advise you to enter some good botanical gardens, where you would have an opportunity of being well grounded in the science oi botany and the knowledge of plants and trees. After spending two years there your next endeavour should be to secure employment for another two years in one of the largest and best of our cele- brated gardens. Your past experience, knowledge, and maturer age would qualify you to take a responsible position in such a garden under a good foreman for another two years, when, if you have made the best use of your lime, you should bfi able to lake a foreman's position in a good garden for two or three years longer, when by the experience and the success you had gained in subordinate positions you will have secured the friendship and influence of those whom you have served under, and which should go a long way to help you to obtain a head-gardener's position in due time. As regards serving an apprenticeship we are of opinion that it is best to do so, paying the head gardener a moderate premium for the tuition he is expected to give. There are occasionally local and special reasons against this system, but the apprenticeship system is the best. Sulphate of Ammonia (Railway). — Sulphate of ammonia is a valuable manure, and may be applied with advantage to almost every garden crop, as it supplies concentrated nitrogen in a form easily taken up by plants. Care must be taken in not applying it too strong or damage will certainly follow, as it is a powerful stimu- lant. Before being applied it should be ground down fine. A safe quantity to use is lib. to 1 Jib. per rod or perch. The Wineeerry (M. Firminyer).— Thin is of Japanese origin, its botanical name being Rubus phoenicolasius. It succeeds well in this country grown in the same way as the Raspberry. Its Mulberry-shaped berries are produced in pro- fusion, and make a delicious preserve, but the fruit is not generally appreciated as dessert. The branches that bore fruit last vear should MESSRS. ROBERTSON'S EXHIBIT OF DAFFODILS AT THE RECENT SPRING SHOW AT DCELIN. 276 TBE GARDEN, [May 6, 1905. have been cut away close to the ground early last winter, and the new shoots of last year's growth only preserved, as those are the shoots which will produce fruit during the current year. Much better quality fruit will result from plants nailed up than from those permitted to grow in a tangle, which would be the case if the branches were allowed to root into the ground at will. The sprays you say that are dying are those which fruited last year, which should have been cut away early last winter. Those sprays you speak of as covered over with fresh growth should be taken care of and nailed up, as it ia from these that fruit may be e.\-pected during the current year. Training Sweet Peas [F. J. /".).— We much prefer using ordinary Pea sticks rather than string or wire netting ; providing you get sticks with plenty of twiggy growth on them we do not think you would find anything more suitable. If your sticks are bare of these twiggy growths, they would not, of course, be so satisfactory, wire netting, string, or wires have such an arli- fioial appearance, altogether out of keeping with a garden. Grapes Spotted (C. F. Durham).— The atmo- sphere of the vinery has been too cold and damp in the mornings, with the consequence that the Vines and the berries have not had time to dry before the sun with considerable power has been shining on them. Use a little more fire-heat at night for some little time yet, and give more back air at night also. The variety, we pre- sume, is Lady Downe's. It is more liable to this trouble than any other sort we know, but by giving a little extra air night and day, with moderate warmth in the pipes at night until the Grapes have finished stoning, we have always been able to steer clear of this trouble, which is usually called scalding of the berries. The heat from the smouldering trellis in your vinery may have had something to do with injuring your Vine leaves, but we think the injury has been caused more by the same agency as that which has caused damage to the berries, namely, too sluggish, cold, and damp an atmo- sphere in the morning. The remedy recommended in the case of the berries will apply also to the leaves. Culture of Seakale (D. M. i?.).— Many gardeners take up the Seakale crowns and plant 3 inches apart in a Mushroom house for forcing, and when the crowns are lifted in November or later the side roots and tap roots are taken off and cut into pieces about 4 inches long and laid in damp sand, ashes, or earth, thick end upwards, and covered thinly with dry litter. During the winter the root cuttings will form crowns, and in March, when taken out for planting, remove all miniature crowns so that only one strong crown is left to form the future forcing crown. Plant with a dibber in rows 15 inches to 18 inches apart, and 12 inches between the rows, covering the crowns about half an inch. This is the course to adopt when the crowns are intended to be lifted for forcing in the Mushroom house or elsewhere. But when forced on the ground under pots plant in patches of three, thus, /,, so that the pots will cover them easily, the groups to be ik feet apart from centre to centre. Exhausted plants or if planted in poor land will run to flower speedily ; in fact, all plants will flower more or less, and there is no way except good cultivation to keep this flowering habit within bounds, but all flowering shoots should be removed promptly as soon as they show. It is desirable to make new plantations occasionally, and start again with cuttings of the roots. This should be done in early spring. A sprinkling of salt, lib. to the square yard, will be useful. Soot and lime will also be useful in driving away slugs and snails. Persimmon Plants (Worcester).— The plants of Persimmon will in time bear fruit without grafting, that is, if they are placed under con- ditions favourable to their full development. Even in the southern part of England they need the protection of a south wall, or, better still, a glass structure ; indeed, the best fruiting examples we have met with were grown in a warm green- house fully exposed to the sun. The plants, each of which bore several fruits, were about 6 feet high. Their flavour, however, did not gain them many admirers, and though handsome it is more than probable that being seedlings they were by no means equal to some of the named varieties, of which there are a great number ; in fact, more than 100, according to a Japanese catalogue now lying before us. Fruit might certainly be obtained in less time from your plants if they were grafted with some of the tried varieties, but we are sorry not to be able to inform you where they can be obtained, as none of our nurserymen seem to have seriously taken up the culture of the Persimmon in this country. A notice in our advertising columns would, however, in all probability elicit the required information. The culture of the plant itself is not at all diflicult, as it grows freely in a compost principally made up of good open loam, and given effectual drainage a liberal supply of water may be afforded it during the growing season. Little pruning is needed, the principal consideration in this way being the removal of any branches that show a tendency to become overcrowded. Chrysanthemums for Exhibition: When to Stop the Plants (E. 5.).— You ask us when you should stop the plants mentioned in your list when grown for exhibition. The varieties are of a mixed character, and some are totally unsuited for exhibition. You do not say when the show is to be held, and that leaves us in doubt as to the advice to give you. We will, therefore, assume the display is to be held during the earlier half of November, and suggest the following treatment: .T, Tin 4 J Which bud to Name. Type. When to stop. retain. Miss Violet Foster I. at once and end June second crown Major Bonafton - ,, May 15 first crown Mine. Ed Rogers- „ at once and June 21 - second crown Prlnirnae League - P. at once terminal buds a. J. Warren - - J. ,, second crown Kimberley • - - ,, at once and end June ,, ,, Emily Mlleham - ,, May 21 first crown La Triomphant - ,, at once and end June terminal buds Golden Gate - - ,, May 12 first crown Mrs.EmmaG. Fox ,, ,,21 „ Condor ----,, >, 15 ,, ,, Neither Primrose League nor La Triomphant have any value for exhibition as cut blooms, and Condor is far too old and wanting in quality when compared with newer kinds. H. J. Jones's "Chrysanthemum Guide," " The Culture of the Chrysanthemum," by W. Wells, or _" Chrysan- themums and How to Grow Them," by J. B. Wroe, are three suitable works for you. Grafting Young Vines {S. M. ir.). — The term grafting is applied to that mode of uniting two different varieties of Grapes together when the Vines are dormant, that is, before growth has commenced, and when the young Vine would have been grafted to the stem of the old one. But it is too late to carry out this system now, as growth is more or less advanced ; but another way of uniting the two, and one that is equally efficacious, is by grafting a shoot of this year's growth of the young Vine on to a like shoot of the old Vine, when the two young shoots will soon unite, and the one belonging to the young Vine will make a long and vigorous shoot this summer, and will ultimately take the place of the old Vine. The shoot of the old Vine, to which the young one has been grafted, should not be allowed to grow beyond three or four leaves above where the two are joined together. The young shoots before they are grafted should be about 15 inches long, and the way to graft them is to cut out a slice of the bark of each about the middle, or rather lower down than the middle of the shoot, U inches long, a quarter of an inch wide, and just a little deeper into the tissues of the shoot than the bark. Bring these two cut surfaces together, and tie them firmly with some soft matting, whipping it round several thick- nesses to prevent the wounds drying up too quickl}'. The operation must be carried out with much care or the young shoots may be broken, as at this stage they are extremely brittle. The union will soon take place, but the matting which fastens it must not be removed for two or three months. In about three years time, if all goes well, this new shoot will fill the place of the old Vine. You can put white Grape on black, or black on white, it makes no difference. Hedges for Kitchen Garden (Jtiry). — We can recommend both Beech and Holly for your hedge. The choice depends on the amount you are prepared to spend on it. Of the two the Holly will give the better shelter, but to get a hedge 4 feet to 5 feet high at once will cost you from S3, to lOs. a yard run. Small Hollies about li feet to 2 feet can be procured fairly cheap, and Beech at the same price should be good plants 4 feet or so in height, which would form a hedge at once. The Beech gives a fairly good shelter, but the Holly is the better, though, as we have said above, you must be prepared to pay a good price if you wish a hedge at once, or wait a few years if you use smaller plants that are not so costly. As an alternative to either we can recommend Oval-leaved Privet, Arbor-vita;, or Thuya Lobbi, which are all fast growers, and cau be bought fairly cheap. Orchids for Small House {Rydon). — The Orchids you name are by no means the best for a beginner to start with. Many professional gar- deners find trouble with such as Ca'logyne dayana. This species would be well suited in this class of house, where a minimum temperature of 60" is maintained. During the growing season it needs water freely. Reduce the supply after the completion of the pseudo-bulb. When new roots are being emitted is the time for resurfacing or rebasketing if the compost has become sour. Use a mixture of two parts fibrous peat, two parts sphagnum, and one part leaf-soil well mixed together with a little coarse sand. Den- drobium wardianum and D. nobile will also grow well in this structure. During the growing season they should be afforded new material if this is required, using equal parts of peat and sphagnum, with some small crocks and coarse sand all mixed together. After potting water only when the compost has become thoroughly dry till the new roots have entered the new material, then till the completion of growth water freely, reducing it gradually after that season till flower-buds are in evidence, when rather more will again be required. We would advise that ordinary flower-pots be used, giving a good drainage. This would also apply to Cattleya gaskelliana, and the best time for the work is when new roots are in evidence at the base of the new bulbs. The same compost as advised for Ca>logyne dayana would suffice. Give a position at the coolest end of the house. Calanthes should be potted up annually as advised in calendar notes in a recent number of The Garden. Cielogyne cristata would be better suited grown cooler, and if the compost is sour repotting may now be done, using a mixture of fibrous peat two parts and one part each of fibrous loam, sphagnum, and leaf-soil mixed together with some coarse sand. Yes, all old, useless pseudo- bulbs should be removed. Orchids generally do require a season of rest, and when they are neither growing nor producing flower is the time it should beaftorded. You will, we are sure, have most of your diffi- culties removed if you follow the Orchid notes, especially those of the calendar in The Garden. There is a book for amateurs written by Mr. W. H. White, which would be of great help to you. It is published by Lane, Vigo Street, W., '2s. 6d. Namks of Plants.— J. ftvi;/.— The (Ircliid Is Co'logyne massangeana, and the shrub is the double Keirla (K. japonica H.-pl.). Q. P. B.— Ornithogalum nutans. M. A. 11. (?.— You are tiuite correct, Anielanchier antl Pynia Maius lloribunda. Adilfrliurii.—\, Narcissus liur- bldgei ; 2, Bicolor Empress ; 3, Rugilobus ; 4, C. W. Cowan ; May 6, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 277 5, much withered, but apparently incomparabilia cynosure. A. B. H.—l, Scilla italica; 9, Helleborus viridis var. purpuratcens ; 3, PotentiUa splendens ; i and 5, flowera gone, but evidently the plants are bulb forms of Ery- thronium Dens-cania. T. U , Wortrstcr.— The Violet is Marie Louise, so far aa can be determined from the pour specimen sent. The whitish-leaved shrub is Santolina incana. The other plant may be one of the Michaelmas Daisies. Please nute that all specimens for naming should be numbered, and sent only when in bloom. Short Replies.— i?. j\'orton, Boumciiinuth.— The Ji&tfo- dils were quite shrivelled, so we are unable to name them. You omitted to send your address, otherwise we might have written to you. If you can send any more flowers with the stalk ends in damp moss we shall be very pleased to name them. A, K. jlA— Wagtails and blue tits are especially prone to this hubit of pecking at windows in spring, when they are full uf quarrelsome feelings towards all other birds of their own kind and sex. It is a sign that the bird will nest not far off, and is doing its best to drive away a supposed rival — its own reflection in the glass. — E. Kay K.OBINSON. (^^. —Clematis Flammula is likely to succeed as well as any other flowering climber under the conditions you name, but it is by no means an ideal spot for it. TRADE NOTES. The Sdtton Cup for Sweet Peas. The National Sweet Pea Society is exceedingly fortunate in having this year the direct co-operation of Messrs. Sutton and Sons of Reading, who have presented a very beautiful silver challenge cup for competition in the society's audit class for nineteen specified varieties. The value of the cup is 15 guineas, and as every variety men- tioned is in general cultivation it is certain that the entries will be very large. The winner of the cup will receive a gold medal from the society as a permanent memento of success. A Valuable Flower Clip. The question of tying or securing flowers and plant stems neatly and obscurely is always a vexed one with the gardener, and we are sure many will be glad to know of the new patent flower 6lip introduced by Messrs. Wood and Sons, Wood Green, London, N., of which we give an illustration. The illustration shows well the form and efficacy of this clip, but among its advantages we may mention durability, a great saving of time— for a dozen can be fixed in the time ordinarily occupied in tying one with raffia— it will fit sticks and other supports of varying sizes, it can be adjusted with one hand, and always looks neat and tidy. Messrs. W. Wood and Sons are the sole agents. SOCIETIES. ROYAL tBOTANIC SOCIETY. The monthly exhibition of this society on the 19th ult., was, perhaps, better than any of the previous ones. Several fresh exhibitors sent groups of plants and flowers. This is encouraging to the society, which is working hard to popularise its shows and garden. Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech, were awarded a large silver-gilt medal for a very bright representative group of Narcissi and Tulips. A new early Tulip, Golden Queen, very rich yellow, and Vesuvius, rich crimson, were two fine ones. The Narcissi comprised all the lead- ing sorts. Especially tine were poeticus King Edward VII., Glory of Noordwijk (bicolor trumpet), Weardale Perfec- Ltun, Eyebright, and Virgil, the two latter Parvi-coronati varieties. The cut Roses from Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Brais- wick Rose Garden, Colchester, were a beautiful lot. There were bunches of Leonie Lamesch, 'J'ea Rimbler, W. A. Richardson, Eugenie Lamesch, Lady Roberts, Phillipine Lambert, and others ; and single blooms of General Jacqueminot, Ethel Brownlow, Mamie, and many more favourites, as well as of the new copper yellow Tea Dr. Felix Guyon, the pale salmon H. T. Senateur Belle, and the rich bright rose H. T. Gustave Grunerwald. Large silver-gilt medal. The Camellias, cut from plants growing out of doors unprotected in the grounds of Sir F. Tress-Barry, Bart., St. Leonard's Hill, Windsor (gardener, Mr. R. Brown), made a most attractive exhibit. Numerous varieties were shown, Bealii, adeep crimson, and Chandlerii being two of the finest. Large silver medal. Daftudils in great variety, Tulips, and St. Brigid Anemones were well shown by Messrs. Hogg and Robert- son, Rush, County Dublin. Among the Narcissi Mrs. C. R, Hamilton (white perianth, rich yellow orange-tipped cup). Lady Arnott (deep yellow perianth, orange scarlet cup), Lady Margaret Boscawen (bicolor Ajax), Aurantius plenus, Leedsi Mrs, Langtry, and N. odorus rugulosus were some of the most notable. Silver-gilt medal. The zonal Pelargoniums from Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent, made a brilliant show. Many fine varieties in the richest shades of colour were included. Large silver-gilt raedal. Bruce's Flower Displayers, most useful for arranging flowers in vases, were shown by Mr. George Sage, 71, Manor Road, Richmond. He also exhibited the Four Oaks Undentable Syringes. Mr. George Mount, Canterbury, gained a large silver- gilt medal for a group of cut Roses. The blooms of Liberty, Ulrich Brunner, Captain Hayward, Mrs. John Laing, Mrs. W. J. Grant, Mme. Chatenay, and others, all on long stems, were very fine. Messrs. Barr and Sons, King Street, Covent Garden, showed a representative collection of Narcissi, which contained Gloria Mundi, Mme. de Graaf, Rev. D. R. Williamson, rich yellow trumpet; Lucifer, Willie Barr, Apricot, Peach, Weardale Perfection, Duchess of West- minster, and other good sorts, all well shown. Such Tulips as Sir Thomas Lipton, King of Yellows, Brunhilde, Keizer's Kroon, Princess Wilhelmina, and Duchesse de Parma were also contained in the group. Large silver- gilt medal. A very attractive group of flowering and foliage plants was arranged by Miss Adamson, South A''illa, Regent's Park (gardener, Mr. Keif), and obtained a gold medal. It contained Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Lilies, Anthuriums, Orchids, Palms, Ferns, Ac, each effectively disposed in masses. A silver-gilt medal was accorded to Edward Wagg, Esq. (gardener, Mr. W. Phillips), The Islet, Jlaidenhead, for a handsome group of Cinerarias, both of the stellata and the large-flowered types. The colours were good and distinct, and the plants effectively displayed. Dr. Robert Boxall (gardener, Mr. Sicklemore), Abinger Common, Surrey, was awarded a silver medal for a collec- tion of Narcissi. Barr's Daffodil Vase (given as a special prize by Messrs. Barr and Sons) was won by H. R. Darlington, Esq. (gardener, Mr. Bignell), Potter's Bar. Emperor, Johnstoni, King of Spain, Mme. de Granf, Gloria Mundi, John Bain, Autocrat, and K. Spurrell were included. The group of flowering shrubs and hardy flowers from Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, Hiehgate, N., was a most interesting one, and gained a gold medal. Lilium Hansoni made a bright bit of colour, and Tulips, Geums, Primulas, Saxifrages, hardy Cypripediums, Narcissi, and other flowers were used in the foreground, while Azaleas, Laburnums, and other shrubs were at the back. A very fine lut of Cypripedium spectabile were shown in pans. The Ghent Azaleas, Lilacs, Viburnums, and other shrubs in flower from Messrs. R. and G. Cuthbert, Southgate, N., made a very bright display. They were tastefully arranged among Japanese Maples and other greenery, producing a very pleasing effect. Large silver-gilt medal. A gold medal was awarded to H. L. Bischott'sheim, Esq., Warien House, Stanmore (gardener, Mr. C. J. Ellis), foi- a group of Anthurium schertzerianum and Orchids in variety. The former, which carried very fine and richly coloured spatbes, were arranged at either end of the table, and the Orchids in the centre. Among the latter were Cattleya Mendelii, C. Schroderte, Odontoglossum andersonianum Warren House variety, and others. Mr. Williams, Oxford Road, Ealing, showed rural table decorations. Botanical diagrams illustrating the anatomy of plants were shown by students of the gardening school. EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB. There was a large attendance of members at the April meeting at the Shirehall Hotel. Norwich, to hear a dis- course upon the Potato by Mr. Walter P. Wright, secretary of the National Potato Society. Mr. J. Powley presided, supported by Mr. T. B. Field (Ashwellthorpe). Among those present were also Mr. Charles Daniels. Mr. J. Clayton (Messrs. Daniels Eros., Limited), J. Forder, H. Read, Robert Holmes, C. Hubbard, E. Peake, &c. Mr. Wright told his hearers that he deplored the recent boom of varieties which had turned out useless. There was, however, one bright gleam in the matter, inasmuch as it had brought out more prominently the importance of the Potato as a product. The worth of the yearly crop based upon recent returns ran into rather astounding figures. Soils was a subject which grieved many, but the stereotyped sandy loam was not alone capable of growing Potatoes. He had grown tubers which could win prizes on the stiff clay of Kent. It only required observation of varieties U> succeed. Speaking of manure, he advocated a combination of farm- yard and artificials, and of the latter a much larger per- centage of superphosphate than any other ingredient. On the question of seed tubers many errors were made. It had been proved from experience that the bebt results were obtained'from large, strong tubers with strong shoots, which grew away well and were better able to stand against disease. Scw will be held on Wednesday and Thurs- day, July 20 and 27, in the Sophia Gardens, Cardiff (by kind permission of the Marquis of Bute). Full particulars uf the classes may be had from Mr. Gillett. Wei/brid the Art Gallery, Park Lane, on a recent Wednesday under the auspices of the Croydon Horticultural Mutual Improvement Society. The object of the society is an admirable one— to promote a love of horticulture among the masses. The show is an annual event, and, as usuaU no prizes were offeied, the exhibitors gaining no monetary benefit whatever. It was, therefore, only fitting that the views of the promoters should be justified. Unfortunately, the weather was not favourable, so, therefore, it was not surprising that the attendance— admission was free to all — was not a record one, as it deserved to be. The gallery was one mass of bloom, and the fiowers were arranged on benches round the side and up the centre. The arrange- ment of the groups was very artistic, and the exhibitors were well rewarded by the result of their efforts. Mr. T. Butcher, of George Street and South Norwotid, displayed an enchantingly effective group, the most prominent features being a shower bouquet and a basket of flowers, ilr. Frank Lloyd, of Coombe House, had two very fine groups on show. One, consisting of a mass of flowering shrubs and bulbs, was arranged with marked ability by his gardener, Mr. M. E. Mills, who was also responsible for some exhibits of alpine flowers in pots. Mr. J. R. Box and Messrs. John R. Box and Co. also sent exhibits of alpines and Narcissi, including Van Waveren's Giant» respectively. Mr. J. Filce, of 27, Handcroft Road, staged a collection of Forget-me-nots, bulbs, and Auriculas, which were much admired, as also were the Primula obconicas and Clianthus Dampieri, sent by Mr. R. A. Laing, of Shirley Hyrst, Radcliffe Road, and staged by Mr. B. Acock, his gardener. Messrs. Cheal and Son, of Crawley, were represented by a very fine collection of alpine plants and Daft'odils. The uses to which a fireplace can be put in the summer months was clearly displayed by Mr. J. Gregory, whose decorated fireplace was a feature of the show. Over forty varieties of Hyacinths, together with Narcissus, appeared on Messrs. E. W. and S. Rogers' bench, quite a feature of which was the range of colours. A very imposing collection of Orchids was contributed by Mr. F. W. A. Radford, of Southernhurst, Park Hill Road, through his gardener, Mr. T. Pedley. The most pre- dominant bloom was Cymbidium lowianum. A miscel- laneous group of plants was exhibited by Mr. Bye, on behalf of Mr. Wickham Noakes, of Selsdon Park, and in- cluded some very flne Amaryllis and Orchids. Mr. J.Pascall, of Ambleside, Addiscombe Road, showed some splendid Cinerarias (gardener. A. Edwards), while Mr. G. Curling, of Elgin House, Addiscombe, through Mr. W. Bentley, sent some very pretty plants. Other exhibits were contributed by Mr. F. R. Docking, Grafton House, Sydenham Road (gardener. Mr. D. J. Ricketts); Mr. J. J. Macdonald, of Howard Road, South Norwood ; whilst Mr. T. G. Challis, of 113, Oval Road, an unemployed jobbing blacksmith, had on view a very unique flower stand, made by himself, and which was for sale, representing a snake in the grass, all of which was made of iron and steel. Mr. Boshier, the popular hon. secretary of the society, is to be heartily congratulated on the success achieved, principally through his untiring efforts. BROUGHTY FERRY HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. The usual monthly meeting of the Broughty Ferry Horti- cultural Association was held there on the evening of Tuesday, the Ibth ult., when there was a good attendance, presided over by Jlr. James Slater, president of the asso- ciation. An excellent paper on the Eucharis was given by Mr. John Carmichael, Rosely Gardens, Arbroath, Forfar- shire, and was followed with close attention. Mr. Car- michael dealt with his subject in a most practical manner, giving full details of the cultural and other treatment he considered most suitable for this favourite and valuable plant. Mr. Carmichael was heartily ihauked for his admirable paper. SHIRLEY (SOUTHAMPTON) GARDENERS- ASSOCIATION. Nearly fifty members were present at the usual monthly meeting held recently in the Parish lUxmi, High Street, Shirley. The evening was devoted to a debate on " Carpet Bedding." Mr. Risbridger of The Gardens, Rownhams Mount, opened the debate with a speech in favour of the system, and he was followed by Mr. Wilcox uf The Gardens, Aldermoor House, in opposition. An energetic discussion followed, to which Mr. Cleverley, Mr. C. J. Porter, and otheis contributed. There were seven exhibits of Datfudils in competition, those shown by Mr. Wilcox and Mr. Cooke being especially noteworthy. May 6, 10O5.] THE GARDEN. Vll. BATH GARDENEKS' SOCIETY. This fortnightly meeting of the above society was held on the lObh inst. There was a large gathering of members, and the exhibits were of the usual high quality. Mr. O. G. McLaren read a practical paper on "Zonal Gera- niums." He gave some interesting details of this well- known and valuable plant for winter flowering, of which he had an excellent exhibit on the table. It gave rise to a good discussion among the members. A hearty vote of thanks was given to Mr. 0. G. McLaren. T. P. FORTHCOMING SHO\VS. May 9.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting. May U.— Annual Dinner of the Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund, Hotel Cecil. May 17.— Royal Botanic Society's Show, Regent's Park. May 23.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Tulip Show). May 24.— Royal Caledonian Horticultural Show at Edinburgh (two days) ; York Society of Florists' Show. May 30.— Royal Horticultural Society's Temple Show (three days) ; Bath and West of England Show (Ave days). June 1.— Rhododendron Exhibition, Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, throughout the month. June 7. — Royal Botanic Society's Show (three days). June 16.— Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution Annual Dinner. June 20. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting ; Salterhebble Flower Show. June 21.— York Gala (three days). June 27.— Oxford Commemoration Show. June 28.— Southampton Rose Show (two days) ; Rich- mond (Surrey) Horticultural Show. June 29.— Colchester Horticultural Show, July 4. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting ; National Sweet Pea Society's Show ; Sutton Rose Show. July 5.— Tunbridge Wells, Hanley (two days), and Croydon Flower Shows. July 6.— National Rose Society's Show ; Sidcup Flower Show. July 11.— Wolverhampton Floral F6te (three days). July 13.— Wood bridge Horticultural Show. July IS.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Car- nation and Picotee Show) ; National Rose Show at Gloucester. July 19.— Newcastle-on-Tyne Flower Show (three days); York Florists' Show. July 25.— Tibshelf Horticultural Show. July 26.— Southampton Carnation Show and Cardiff Flower Show (two days). August 1.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting. August 2.— Chesterfield Horticultural Show. August 7.— Lichfield, Wells, Mansfield, Grantham, and Ilkeston Flower Shows. DAFFODIL NOTES. April 15. SINCE my last notes were penned the weather has undergone a change for the worse, and, instead of the early season which all had been led to antici- pate, themijority of mid-season flowers will be in bloom about their normal time. The question has been raised as to whether the committee of the Midland Daffodil Society were wise in bringing their show a week forward, but, as one who voted for the alteration of the date, I can only say that had the extremely warm weather which we experienced during the last fortnight of March continued, only the very latest flowers would have been available for the 27th ult., the original date. Another point to be borne in mind is that Easter week is rather an awkward time for an exhibition of such im- portance, many people being absent from home. Ever since April came in the weather has been most treacherous — frost, snow, hail, rain, and wind alternating, while the sun has been almost entirely absent. The efiect of this cold and gloom has been such that some of my flowers which were almost on the point of opening stood perfectly still for days together. On the night of the 7th ult. we had quite a heavy fall of snow, and it was interesting to observe what flowers stood the ordeal best. Some varieties are so easily spoilt, and one that deserves a bad mark on this account is 0. J. Backhouse. For a very brief period it unquestionably forms a beautiful piece of colour in the garden, but few red-cupped varieties stand either heat or wet, and this one is certainly no exception. Stella superba is a fine garden plant, and will stand a great deal of bad weather with- out injury. Others that stand well are Dachess of Westminster, Queen of Spain, Golden Spur, Mrs. Thompson, Emperor, Victoria, and the hybrids with Grandee blood, such as Resolute and Strongbow. I am very pleased with Reso- lute, as it is a fine flower to last, and its drooping habit prevents it from getting spoilt by the weather. In order to appreciate it thoroughly it should be planted on rockwork where its flowers may be seen from below. A great many people, I know, dislike these flowers with a drooping habit, but this is a mistake, as I have myself found out. Quite one of the loveliest of all Mr. Eagleheart's hybrids, i.e., Waterwitch, is of pendant habit, and this in no way detracts from its beauty but rather enhances it. At the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting on the 11th ult. there were several very fine collections, and some high-class seedlings were staged. The two groups which claimed the most attention were those of Mr. Engleheart and Mr. Dawson. In the former's stand the most striking flowers were as follows : — Vulcan. — An extremely distinct and refined flower belonging to the Engleheartii section. The large flattened cup is of an intense orange- red, almost approaching Firebrand in colour. The creamy yellow overlapping segments are Almond-shaped, and have a slight reflexing habit. This is quite one of the best flowers we have seen. Charlemagne. — This flower also attracted a great deal of attention. It is an immense yellow incomparabilis, over 5 inches across, and of excel- lent form. The bright yellow crown is 2 inches across and beautifully trilled at the mouth, while the huge segments are clear yellow. Some incomparabilis forms, raised from M. J. Berkeley, were interesting flowers, and a neat, rich yellow Ajax of the same origin was very striking. Limonia is a glorified Frank Miles, but perhaps a little lighter in colour. Electra, a soft yellow incomparabilis 3 inches across, is a refined flower of good form. The segments are a rich creamy yellow, and the short crown bright yellow. A pretty but delicate looking flower is Pink Pearl, with starry white segments and a cup of salmon pink. Other named flowers were Indomitable, a bold incomparabilis ; Duhloon (poeticus ornatus x telamonius plenus), a very fine double ; Lancer, Qlitter, and Scarlelta, all red cups ; and such poeticus varieties as Laureate, Chancer, and Virgil. In Mr. Dawson's stand the premier flower was Buttercup, and it is no exaggeration to say that this variety — which had been previously exhibited at Truro — attracted the attention of all Dafi'odil lovers. The flower is happily named, for its colour is quite a true Buttercup yellow. A seed- ling from Emperor crossed with N. odorus rugulosus, it exhales a delicious fragrance. The segments are the same length as the trumpet, and the whole flower is of a rich deep yellow. It is an Engleheart seedling, and one of the most unique flowers yet raised. Peveril. — An exquisite flower of the very highest quality, with a daintily fringed cup as intense in colour as that of Firebrand, but con- siderably wider. In comparison with the last named its pure white. Almond-shaped perianth segments, which are of slightly reliexing habit, are clearly superior. The size of the flower is 2| inches. Bemadino. — A wonderful incomparabilis, and quite a break in colour. The long, pure white segments are broad and overlapping. The crown is IJ inches across, spreading and frilled like Leedsi Minnie Hume. The base of the crown is bright primrose yellow, changing to deep orange, and fading to a paler shade at the frilled edge of the mouth. The size of the flower is just over 3i inches. Viking. — This is one of those chaste white trumpet Daffodils of triandrus origin of which we seem to be now getting a considerable number. The chief feature of the flower is its delicate lemon-coloured trumpet, which is funnel-shaped and 2 inches long. The large pointed segments are of a slightly drooping character, and in colour palest lemon white. A shapely flower, and very attractive. Planet. — A large and refined Burbidgei, with well-set, creamy yellow segments and a crinkled yellow cup faintly margined with orange. Wagtail is a very dainty and symmetrical incomparabilis, with a solid, overlapping white perianth and a long, clear yellow cup. yVill-o'-the- Wisp is a small but nicely propor- tioned flower of the Parvi group, with starry, pointed petals. The cup is an attractive shade of bright orange with a citron green eye. Lilian. — An extremely neat Burbidgei of lasting character. The creamy white. Almond- shaped segments, though thin, are firm and overlapping. Small, light orange cup, edged deep orange. Raised by Mr. Dawson. Oreeneye is a very distinct flower, with creamy, overlapping perianth segments, and a spreading saucer-shaped cup. This is bright lemon yellow, faintly edged with orange, and set oflf by a remarkably deep green eye. Other good things noted in this exhibit were Pilgrim, a flower of which measured i\ inches across, Dawn (poeticus x triandrus). Homespun, Beacon, Magpie, Penguin, Stonechat, and Tenny- son, a stately poeticus. A little group comprising eighteen seedlings, all of the very highest quality, came from Mrs. R. 0. Backhouse, Sutton Court, Hereford. The series of hybrids raised from Weardale Perfection and Moonbeam were faultless flowers of rare beauty, even surpassing the exquisite White Queen. From amongst these the Narcissus com- mittee selected Lord Kitchener for an award of merit, which was unanimously granted. This flower is a marvel of refinement, tone, and modelling. The crown opens a bright lemon yellow, gradually fading to a paler shade. It is IJ inches across, and daintily frilled at the mouth. The over- lapping perianth segments are palest lemon white, and perfect in form. Another giant Leedsi from the same cross was Snowdon. — This difl'ered from the previous variety in possessing an almost white crown. Dewdrop, Zingara, and Mohican, all of which have previously gained an award of merit, were also to be seen in this exhibit. In Miss Currey's group, which contained many lovely things, none surpassed a new variety named Radiance. — This is an Engleheart seedling of an entirely new shade of colouring, and belongs to the incomparabilis group. The crown is a clear rosy orange, and the cream-coloured perianth segments are slightly drooping. This is one of the most delightful colours yet attained in Narcissi. Two splendid groups came from Messrs. Barr and Sons and Messrs. Pope respectively. The former gained an award of merit for Alice Knights, a very early white trumpet Daffodil which had been well shown at the previous meeting ( March 28). The com mittee are endeavouring to encourage the introduction of early flowers, and this variety secured an award solely on this account. The perianth is white and slightly twisted, while the trumpet is creamy white and has a prettily frilled open mouth. Quite recently I saw this variety in Messrs. Barr's nursery, and was greatly struck with its vigour. Single bulbs two years planted had developed into large clumps. The plant grows about 1 foot high, and one of its parents was Narcissus cernuus, which to a great extent accounts for the lasting character of the flowers. In Messrs. Pope and Son's stand one flower stood out before all others. This was King's Norton, which was described in The Garden last year. It is a most majestic flower of the largest size, and as exhibited was quite free from any reproach of coarseness. The most apt description of it would be a glorifled Emperor. On this occasion it received an unanimous first- class certificate. Kidderminster. Arthur R. Goodwin. VUI. THE GARDEN. [May G, 1005. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. CLIMBING FREXCII BEANS. WHILST the term French as commonly applied to dwarf Kidney Beans seems to be a misnomer, as they are in no special sense French, the appellation has become a com- mon one, and doubtless will survive. Whilst these Beans have been generally grown in all gardens as a useful summer vegetable, there can be no doubt that the introduction of the climbing section or sports from these dwarf Beans has done much to minimise their growth, as a good row of such a variety as the climbing Canadinn Wonder, when poiU are kept hard gailiered, gives as much produce as can be got from jirobably three succes- sive sowings of the dwarf stock or variety ; but these climbing B;ans, as with Scarlet Runners, must have good culture, ample depth, plenty of nunure, thin sowing, and tall stakes to support ihem to enable cropping to run over several weeks, Beans do not require nitrogenous manures. As a fact, it is only when such manure is liberally applied that good growth and heavy crops result, as all gardeners know ; hence to have such strong growth a trench 20 inches wide should be opened, the top soil thrown out on to one side, the bottom soil on to the other. If the latter be poor and infertile, let it remain out altogether. Break up the bottom with a fork, throw in the top soil, add to that, and well mix with it a heavy dressing of half-rotten manure, then fork in the top soil from the sides of the trench, mixing more manure with that, then tread down the soil gently, letting it settle a day or two before sowing the Beans. That should be done either in one broad drill, 2 inches deep, or in two ordinary drills drawn side by side, the Beans being placed in them 6 inches apart. Growth will be quick and robust, and can be kept so in dry weather with the aid of frequent waterings and a manure mulch. Dwarf growing varieties do not pay for such trouble, but their cropping is relatively short. A. D. A LATE BRUSSELS SPROUT — THE BULLET. We finished our last Sprouts at the end of April, which is not a bad record for this vege- table. The variety is the Bullet, which was sent out a few seasons ago by Messrs. Cutbush, High- gate. It is remarkable for its close, hard bullet- like growth, with a small compact top or head, and the sprouts firmly packed to the base of the stem. These are of splendid quality when cooked. For private consumption I fail lo see the advantage of large coarse sprouts. With regard to the quantity purchased they do not equal those that are smaller and closer. It is desirable to sow seed of the Bullet on an open warm border early in the spring for latest use the next season. Sow thinly, and when the p'ants are quite small they are placed in their permanent quarters. A catch crop of Spinach or Lettuce is grown between. This is cleared before the plants require the room, and this lot of Sprouts give the supply through February and March. They are always liked owing to their firm com- pact growth. It is one of the latest to open out if grown on an exposed border in well cultivated soil. G. Wythes. LATEjVIOTES. Pelapffoniums in market.— At the present time the well-flowered plants of zonal Pelargoniums in -li-inch pots are very showy. We now have a number of varieties. F. V. Raspail and the improved form of it are the most conspicuous. Some growers who grow for bloom during the winter leave off gathering when other flowers are more plentiful, and when the plants are well in bloom bring them to market. These are showy and larger than those grown expressly for spring trade. King of Denmark (syn. Beaute Poitevine) is still a favourite ; some well-flowered plants of Mrs. Lawrence (the new salmon which was so well shown at Holland House last year) ; Hermoine is still a favourite white ; and Ville de Poitiers a good light scarlet. Of .'ingles Hall Caine is fine, King Edward VII., Mrs. Chas. Pearson, and several other newer sorts are seen. Among Ivy. leaved varieties we only have Mme. Crousse and Galilee at present. These useful sorts are represented by well-flowered plants, and they are now in demand for decorative work as well as for the garden and window boxes. Show and Regal varieties are now plentiful, but they do not sell so readily as the other sections A good many of the plants are rather tall and thin at the bottoms. We see some ver3' good plants, but on an average they are not so good as when Messrs. Hayes, Beekwith, and Brown were competing one against the other. "Chelsea Window Gardening," This little book was written many years ago to assist friends who wished to encourage gardening in the poorest parts of Chelsea. A third edition has now been issued in the hope that it may help the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association in its efforts to brighten London life. Besides full cultural details, some most useful lists of plants for town windows are given. The author is L. M. Forster. The booklet may be had for 2i. from Fisher Unwin. A Daffodil ballot.— At the Birmingham Daffodil show, held on the LSth and 19ih ult. , a very interesting ballot was taken with the idea of trying to find out which were the most popular varieties with the general public. With this end in view fifty varieties of Daffodils were set up under numbers instead of names. The visitors were aaked to mark on the card twelve which in their opinion were the best. Altogether 242 persons voted. The votes each received were as follows : Mme. de Graaff, 1.57 ; Gloria Mundi, 142 ; Crown Prince, 139; Emperor, 128; 0. J. Back- house, 122; Katherine Spurrell, 121 ; Barrii con- spicuus, 108 ; Glory of Leiden, 100 ; Ornatus, 100; Duchess of Westminster, 94; Flora Wilson, 89 ; Sensation, 80 ; Sir Watkin, 80 ; Mme. Plerap, 79 ; Titan, 77 ; Mrs. Langtry, 72 ; Pal- merston, 62 ; Duchess of Westminster, 57 ; M. J. Berkeley, 5.5 ; Falstaff, 52 ; Golden Bell, 49 ; Horsfieldii, 48 ; Lulworth, 47 ; Beauty, 41 ; Auto- crat, 41 ; Princess Mary, 41 ; Canipernelle Jon- quils, 40; Incomp. Plenus, ,38; .J. B. M. Camm, .38; Stella, S8 ; Whitewell (Seedling), 34; P. R, Barr, 34 ; (Jrand Dachess, 34 ; Orange Pha^nix, 34 ; Maurice Vilmorin, 33 ; Semi-partitus, 29 ; M. de Graaff, 29 ; Seedling (unknown), 23 ; W. Goldring, 22 ; Cynosure, 21 ; Nelsoui Major, 21 ; Frank Miles, 19 ; Princess Mary, 18 ; Portia, 18 ; Princeps, 14 ; Orphee, 14 ; Mary, 13 ; Baroness Heath, 9 ; Hogarth, 9 ; Queen Bess, (3. Spring flowers at Forest Hill.— The greenhouses in the nurseries of Messrs. Ca-ter and Co. at Forest Hill were bright with Primulas and Cinerarias when recently we visited them. Although the Primula flowers had begun to fade at the touch of the hybridist's brush and the seed-pods to develop, many varieties were hardly past their best, and we were enabled to form an opinion of their merits. Several houses were filled with batches of Primulas, the varieties being kept distinct. There were large quantities of each sort, and in the mass they made a bril- liant show. The names that Messrs. Carter give to their strains of Primulas are self-descriptive, and it may be said are faithful expressions of the characteristics of the flowers. For instance, there are Holborn Blue, Holborn Scarlet, Holborn Coral, Holborn Crested Pink, Holborn Carmine, and Ruby. King Edward VII., a fine white; Princess May, a beautiful pink ; Duchess, white, with red centre ; and Hercules, magenta, are specially noteworthy sorts. These and many charming stollala forms made the houses quite brilliant with colour. We were showu Cinerarias in some strikingly ri h shades and with large, well-formed flowers— representatives of a strain it would be hard to beat. There was also a houseful of Calceolarias in vigorous health, their large, deep green leaves givi- ^ good promise of a harvest of flowers to com... Doubtless they will be on view at the Temple ^r.oiv. Messrs. Cirter were among the first to yxhibit the quaint pigmy trees imported from .Japan, and they have always kept a large number of them. Among the most interesting we saw was an Azalea, said to be 200year3 old, smothered with rosy scarlet flowers. "The Culture of Sweet Peas."— This IS the third edition of a very useful little handbook by the founder of the National Sweet Pea Society. It brings the best and most reliable advice within the reach of every one interested. The pamphlet forms No. 1 of a series of cheap popular handbooks edited by EJward Owen Greening. The editor adds some notes on " Recent Developments of Sweet Peas," and the Hon. H. A. St.anhope notes on "Everlasting Peas." There are also some detailed " Hints on Growing Sweet Peas," by William Smith, a practical cultivator of the popular flowers. The handbook runs to thirty-two pages, is printed on good paper, and illustrated on every page. By Richard Dean, V.M H., &c. London : Agri- cultural and Horticultural Association. Price Id. Muscari azureum robustum. — In a recent number of The G.\rden I staled that a form of Hyacinthus amethystinus was blooming in March in Mr. Bilney's garden at Wey bridge. I find that I have confounded this with the above-mentioned Muscari, which was, I think, formerly listed as Hyacinthus azureum. I see that Mr. Barr uses both names for this species. I suppose that Mr. Bilney told me that it was Hyacinthus azureum. The Grape Hyacinths are very pretty, and when grown in masses are very effective, the finest being undoubtedly Heavenly Blue, which is extremely rich in colour. All the species are good for woodland planting, as they produce a quantity of seeds, which come up naturally. About fifteen years ago a single plant came to me in an accidental way, and I have now nearly 200 bulbs that have mainly come from self-sown seeds, some of them blooming in the Box edging.— J. Cornhill. The Henry Eckford Testimonial. Owing to the pressure upon space in the horti- cultural Press, consequent upon the Easter holidays, it has been impossible to secure pub- licity for the weekly donations to this fund. In the present normal circumstances it is hoped that regularity of publication will not be again interrupted. The subscriptions received up to Saturday night, April 30, are as follow : ■''/'ffS- Shijs. Previously a ok now- Mr, E. B. Leach . ;! leJered 277i Mr, .T. F. McLeod . , . ,'i Ml-, Ernest Amies .. .. 2J- 51r. H. C. W. .Moorhouse 1 Mr. A. E. .\nker .. .. 2 Mr, Conway MopRaii 1 Mr. E. IJeckett .. .. 6 Mr, E, Moxliam , . ,. 1,\ Mr, Jas. Broome ., .. 5 Miss Nash i' Miss i;, F, M. Doyne .. 6 Mrs, Walter Persse .'. 2 Mr, W w. Eason .. .. 2,', Eeiiliill O.irdeners' Asso- Mr, F, Evans 1 elation u\ Mr, H, Forder 2 Mr. H. Rogers l' Mr, W. Fjte 2 Mr, C, Sheppard ,, ., .', Mr, E Oiven Greening., 6 Jlr. I). Stanton .. .. ,'i Tlie Earl of Harring- Mr, Henry Turner .! 1 ton, K.T 20 Mrs, Henry Turner ,. 1 Miss A, F, Uarwood .. 1 Mr, 11. Turvey .. ., 2 .loe and Violet , . . . 2 Messrs. Jas. Veitch and Mr, V. ]!, .tohnstone .. 5 Sons, Limited 4'^ Mr. Thos, .Tones .. .. B J. W. W. " i Erratum.— Meliantiius major Flowering. In your issue dated the 22Qd ult. appears on page 232 a paragraph headed "Melianthus m.ajor flowering," at its end is printed "Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge." This is an error, due, no doubt, to an oversight, as the paragraph referred lo was communicated by us. — Ci^ibrans, Allrincham, Cheshire. • ♦,' Tlw Yearly Subscription to The Gakdk.n is: Inland Gn. 6'rf, ; Foreign, 88. Ud. GARDEN ^■^wft /p No. 1747.— Vol. LXVII. May 13. 1905. OWN ROOT ROSES. FROM a correspondent in Lincoln we have received the following letter : " Your correspondent Mr. Sydney Spalding asks others to give their experience of own root Roses. I regret to say I have reluctantly come to the conclusion, after eight years' trial, that Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Hybrid Perpctuals are no use on their own roots. I have taken every year cuttings of the above, and for four years made very careful notes. A large percentage of the cuttings live and look very healthy for two years, after which by degrees they dwindle away ; odd plants do well, but not a sufficient number to make this mode of propagation useful even to an amateur. My favourite climber, Reve d'Or, I think I may say is an exception. I have now in my garden very fair plants on their own roots of Camoens, General Jacqueminot, Francisca Kriiger, Baron Taylor, Souv. de President Carnot, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Grace Darling, Margaret Dickson, and W. A. Richardson, but these are the exceptions spoken of above. "The following are good own root Eoses, and make splendid plants in every way satisfactory ; any of the old- fashioned large sweet scented pink Eoses from very old gardens, Splendens, Felicite Perpetue, and Thoresbyana or Bennett's Seedling, all three Ayrshires, Psyche and Leuchtstern, both Polyanthas, the Common China, and White Pet. No doubt there are many others, but I am only writing from personal experience. Morletti and Dorothy Perkins will also, I think, be good own root Eoses, but as yet mine are only one year old, and a four year old" plant is the true test. " My method is as follows : Take the cuttings in October of well-ripened young wood, plant firmly three-fourths of their length in the ground in rows, with plenty of sand at the base. The cutting bed is partially shaded. The following October all are replanted in fresh ground, and allowed a little more space. A large pro- portion have nice roots their first year, and generally the second year, but after this the Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Hybrid Perpetuals gradually dwindle away." THE ANNALS OF THE LITTLE RED HOUSE.— L It has occurred to me that, in the face of the fact that half the world is at this moment searching for "a cottage in the country," with an acre or two of garden, within convenient reach of London, the experiences, happy and otherwise, of the successful tinder of such a little haven of rest might be of use and interest to those still beginning the quest, and still more to those who, having found their paradise, have begun the often very necessary work of re-malting and re-ordering the garden. A few years ago we, like the rest of the world whose business or duties keep them tied to London, became weary of the ever- recurring search after a holiday home, the discussions every summer as to when and where we were to go, and the vexatious debates as to " ways and means." The six weeks' holiday constantly ended in dis- appointment, the hired house bringing with its tenancy worries and weariness instead of comfort and rest ; so we determined on becoming possessed of some little house or cottage with a garden, an hour or so from town. A garden ! what delight in the very word ! We had been brought up in a garden, reared in a country village, and then for more years than we cared to count, circumstances had deprived us of these rural joys, and we bought our flowers or did without them. But whenever we found ourselves for a few blessed weeks in the country, we gardened, leaving our temporary home the better for many plants and much tending. Well, one spring day an advertisement in a daily paper caught our eyes : it seemed exactly what we wanted, but, surely, too good to be true — we had been so many "wild goose chases,'' and had lost entirely any faith in an agent's description ; we had already been to inspect dozens of earthly paradises which proved to be entirely with- out even a possibility. However, the description of the little red house was too much for our strength of mind, and we went to see it. The agent had not exaggerated much ; the old-world garden, the orchards, the bleached alleys, the clipped Yew hedges — and in the midst of these charming surroundings the little red house. There was one drawback which at first seemed insuperable — it was quite four miles from a station, and we had no intention, for obvious reasons, of keeping a motor. It is extraordinary, however, if you want a thing very much, how one can convince one's self that a drawback or two does not matter, and, truth to tell, we have never really regretted the distance, bringing as it does immunity from the neighbourhood of villas, and the blessing of perfectly rural surroundings. Of course, the usual weari- some law business threatened more than once to wreck our cherished schemes, owing tc some petty monetary details ; but ouv feminine minds strode triumphant over the barbed wire of the law, and one pouring wet April day we took possession. I do not think any moment that life can give is more delightful than the new posses- sion of a small place in the country, when it is actually signed, sealed, and delivered, when the last load of the late owner's miserable-looking furniture has disappeared^ and when the heap of rubbish which you have been compelled to take at a valuation far beyond its worth or your wishes has been sorted over and distributed. Of course we found that the late occupant had taken away all he could out of the garden, and that the flower borders which had years gone by been the admiration of the neighbourhood for the beauty of their old-world flowers, had been used for the purely practical purposes of market gardening. The kitchen garden had not been stocked, and had also been well stripped of any movable tree or Currant bush, some good Asparagus beds being almost our only assets ; so our prospects for the year were not brilliant. Still, there were orchards of Apple trees just budding to blossom, and a fine bed of young Strawberry plants. These had to be weeded very carefully so as not to break up the soil, and were then mulched — which, of course, ought to have been done weeks before. For Gooseberries and Currants and Easpberries we should have to wait with patience for another year. Augusta de Lacy Lacy. (To he continued.) THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Fancy Pansies and Violas. Few popular flowers compriee such a wealth of beautiful colour shades as the fancy Pansies of to-day, while in the Violas are represented 8om» of the most delicate. Those sent from Rothesa? 280 THE GAEDEN. [May 13, 1905. by Messrs. Bobbie and Co. serve to emphasise the great value of these flowers, and to show that many beautiful varieties have lately been intro- duced. We cannot give long descriptions, but for the guidance of those who wish to have in their garden some particularly handsome sorts of fancy Pansies we give the names of a few : Mrs. Sinclair, Mrs. J. Lister, Mrs. Campbell, A. S. Walker, Provost White, R. C. Dickson, Corona- tion, W. B. Child, Miss A. B. Douglas, Duke of Argyle, and .James Stirling. Pansies and Violas thrive remarkably well in the Rothesay nurseries, as the boxful sent to us gave ample proof. Nakcissi from Chester. A box of Narcissi in many beautiful varieties 'Comes from Messrs. Dicksons of Chester. Among them were the following forms : Elaine. — This has a broad circular perianth of ■fine substance, short expanded crown, the colour pale ivory. Gloria Mundi. — Kich yellow perianth, with large expanded cup, stained orange scarlet. Lulworth. — Pure white perianth, cup bright orange red. White Lady. — Broad perianth of perfect form, jpale canary cup prettily crinkled, a beautiful flower. J/r*. Camm. — Elegant white perianth, trumpet ■flulnhur white, a lovely flower. Q'Ken of Spain. — A most distinct and graceful Ditfodil, soft clear yellow, gracefully reflexing perianth, trumpet distinct. Mme. de Graajf. — This ranks as the queen of ■white trumpet Daifodils, the whole flower being soft pure white. AUiatross. — Large spreading white perianth, cup pale citron-edged orange red, very beautiful. Commander. — Pale sulphur perianth, yellow oup stained orange red, large bold flower. Lathtrus pobescens. This lovely Pea is from a cool greenhouse, ■where it has been in flower for several weeks. It is also doing well outside on a wall, but of course is not yet in flower. It is a native of Chili, and is worthy of more general cultivation, teing easily raised from seed. Not the least of its merits is its delicious perfume. It also lasts ■well when cut, remaining fresh for a fortnight. [A very beautiful flower. — Ed.] PtKUS NIEDZWETZICYANA. The above is well worth a place in all good pleasure grounds, both flowers and foliage being distinct and handsome. [One of the most charming of its race. — Ed.] Iris tingitana. This has again flowered well here. Our treatment seems much the same as Mr. Fitz- herbert recommends. Here we always have a reserve bed, which is left undisturbed for a season. This bed, if given good treatment, will provide strong bulbs, which, if lifted and given a good rest, will flower the following season. This rest is essential if this beautiful Iris is to be successfully flowered. My practice is, when the foliage dies down, to lift the bulbs and store them in a dry place until their roots begin to push at the base. Then they are planted, and, as a rule, every good-sized bulb flowers. The flowering bed of this season will grow on undis- turbed until next year, when it will be lifted and the bulbs stored for rest. That this is the correct treatment is evident, as I have letters from friends who have adopted this method and have been successful. Our beds have sometimes been at the bottom of a south wall, sometimes east, and they have done equally well in either position. — John Coctts. [With this note came several flowers of this beautiful Iris. — Ed.] -^ *,* Several contrihutions have been received for " The Editor's Table," and will be described next ■week. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. MAY. TO Both Professional and Amateue Gardeners. Open A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA wiU be given for the best answers to the questions published below. I. — Name the best twelve distinct Hybrid Tea or Hybrid Perpetual Roses for garden decoration, taking into con- sideration freedom and length of flowering, and hardiness of consti- tution. Two distinct Roses of each of the six following colours must be selected : White, flesh, yellow or cream, pink, cherry or light red, and scarlet or dark red. Exclude new Roses of 1904-5. II. — A hedge of Roses is required to form a i)rotection against the north-east wind in a very exposed position. Name the Rose you would select for this purpose, and state method of planting, pruning for first year, and number of plants required to the 10-feet run ; when fully grown the hedge should be about .3 feet 6 inches high. The protective quality of the hedge will be the first consideration; freedom of flower and decorative quality the second. III. — Give the names of six Roses, rapid climbers, best adapted for climbing into old trees, and state method of planting and pruning for first year. IV. — A sunken lawn, roughly 1,000 square feet in size, well protected from winds and midday sun, and in a generally favourable position, subsoil clayey loam, is to be converted into a Rose garden. Sketch out design of not more than twelve beds and not less than eight, leaving four grass paths — north, south, east, and west —and number beds 1, 2, 3, &c. V. — Name dwarf Tea Roses for said beds, one variety to each bed. Considera- tion must be given to contrast in colour and habit of growth of varie- ties ; freedom of flower essential, and no tender varieties should be used. VI. — A similar list of Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, with similar conditions as the last query. VII. — A pergola leads from kitchen garden to above Rose garden, 80 feet long, with arches at every 8 feet. Ten distinct Roses are required (two plants to each arcTi). Give a list of the varieties you suggest as best for the purpose. The summer-flowering Roses may be used sparingly if thought desirable. General effect of whole when in flower must be considered. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. May 17. — Roj'al Botanic Society's Show, Regent's Park. May 23. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Tulip Show). May 30. — Royal Horticultural Society's Temple Show (three days) ; Bath and West of England Show (five days). NOTES OF THE WEEK. Laelio-Cattleya Mrs. Measures.— This new hybrid has just fluwertd in the collec- tion of Mr. R. H. Measures at the Woodlands, where it was raised. The parents are Laelia elegans and Cattleya gigas, with the L. elngans for the mother plant, and it was on one of Mr. Measures' wonderful L. e. schilleriana varieties that the pollen of a beautiful variety of Cattleya gigas was placed ; hence we have, as might be expected, a really superb hybrid, with sepals and petals wholly pink and white, delicately and exquisitely blended, while the whole of the large front part of the labellum is an intense velvety crimson, with the golden primrose colour at the orifice equal to any of the finest varieties of C. gigas. The contrast of the rich crimson and yellow of the labellum, with the pink and white sepals and petals, is delightful. — Akgutus. FpitiUapia imperialis (Crown Im- perial).— One of the more interesting parts of our garden of late has been a corner devoted to the Crown Imperial. A few years ago we planted about a dozen good bulbs, this number being equally divided between the yellow and orange-red varieties. The bulbs have remained undisturbed since they were first planted, and have increased in number. It is astonishing how little the Crown Imperial is planted, and scarcely a visitor to the garden refrained from asking for the name of the plant that interested them so much. Few subjects in the spring garden grow so quickly. The growths are hardly through the soil before it seems the stout Lily-like stem and foliage begins to show its crown of flowers sur- mounted with a tuft of foliage. Crown Imperials should not be planted near the dwelling-house, as the growths have an unpleasant smell. — D. B. C. A new Calceolaria (Jeffery's hybrid). — This plant promises to become most useful for the decoration of the greenhouse, and probably the forerunner of a new strain. The greenhouse herbaceous varieties are one of the parents, the other is known only to the raiser, Mr. .John Jefieries of Oxford. From the habit and general appearance of the plants, C. integri- folia seems to have played a prominent part. It grows about the same height, but is rather looser in habit, the flowers are slightly larger, leaves double the size, taking more after the herbaceous varieties. At present the colours are not numerous, being yellow, slightly tinted brown, through various shades of brown to the prettiest of all, a rich velvety crimson. The individual flowers are about an inch across. The panicles of flowers are terminal and axillary, and freely pro- duced on long slender stalks. Although it cannot be called the stellata Calceolaria, it is in compari- son with the herbaceous varieties what the stellata Cineraria is to the larger garden forms. The plants at present flowering in No. 4 green- house at Kew are 4 feet to 5 feet in height, and the larger ones 3i feet in diameter. This is the second time of flowering ; the cuttings were inserted in the autumn of 1903, so that they are about eighteen months old. After flowering in 5inch and Oinch pots last spring the old flower heads were cut o3^ and the plants potted on. During the winter they have been grown in a house with a minimum night temperature of 40" Fahr. A batch of smaller plants rooted last autumn will flower about midsummer. The size of the plants depends on the time of inserting the cuttings. They root readily in a close frame in sandy soil. To form bushy plants take out the points of the shoots two or three times. Several plants flowered in a border outside last summer, showing great promise for bedding. There seems every probability of its being grown freely from seed, as although no seed was saved from the plants themselves, pollen put on the her- baceous varieties has produced plants intermediate in character, the flowers of which are just expand- ing. This shows the pollen to be fertile. — A. 0. May 13, 1905. THE GAEDEN. 2ft 1 Bullflnehes in the garden.— I have read the correspondence about the bullfinch in your valuable paper, but have not noticed any- one recommending that fruit trees should be syringed with paraffin and soft soap in February and March. I have mine done about two or three times every spring, and find it keeps away all bullfinches, &o. I think it undesirable to allow the use of a gun, as all birda, useful and harmful alike, are apt to be killed, apirt from the disagreeable noise the gun makes. — A. W. L, , Miserden, Cirencester. Hydpang-ea hoptensis and H. japonica.— At Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons' nursery, K'ng's Road, Chelsea, some beautiful blue-flowered Hydrangeas are now to be seen in small examples growing in 4i-inch pots, the flowers of the first-named being of a light blue tint, and the second deep blue. Under ordinary treatment, and grown in the usual mixture of loam and leaf-mould employed in gardens, the flowers of these varieties, that is, the floral envelopes minus the sexual organs, at'e of a lively pink tint, but afforded a weak solution of alum in water once a week the blue colour takes the place of pink. Are we to understand that H. japonica is merely a Japanese garden variety of H. Hortensia, commonly found in J ipanese gardens, and not a species as the name would imply ? The growth seems similar, and is not so robust as the .Japanese H. Otaksa, or has such large heads of flowers. The most complete or entire elimination of the sexual organs of Hydrangeas would account for the stronger growth of H. Otaksa. Can any of our readers aflfjrd information on this point?— F. M. Ornamental-leaved Begonias.— These, so far as regards the more or less dull- coloured B Rex varieties, received a decided set back when the hybrids of B. Veitchi, B. Boliviensis, and B Pearcei, the last named with yellow flowers, came into gardens, the so-called tuberous-rooted varieties, now greatly improved in habit, stature, sizo, and colour of flowers. But that is another story, and so long. My attention was called the other day to a small collection of Rex Begonias, presumably of French origin, shown by Mr. H. B. Miy at Vincent Square, and remarkable for beautiful markings and the refined forms of the leaves. Very pleasing to my eye were the following, viz , Julie Serot, the leaves having a silvery band on a lively green ground colour on which are seen a few silvery dots ; Bortha McGregor, a variety with palmate leaves, which are of a faint pink tint at the edges, while the fingers are silvery white ; Le Mervelleaux, with small light green leaves having a brown central blotch, irregularly banded with grey, and the rest of the leaf fur- nished with numerous dots of the same tint ; La France is like the foregoing, only the leaf is larger ; Mme. Bergman hai a serrated leaf with white blotches and green veins ; Franz Bachner has a white and grey leaf with much spotting as if salted over ; Prince Charles of Djnmark has silvery markings with conspicuous green lines intervening ; and lastly Silver Queen has silvery leaves with traces of a light green tint in the veins. We are all greatly pleased with the beauty of the young foliage of Rex Begonias, and the pity is that this fades off, as a rule, to such dull tints as the summer advances. The raising of young plants in suocessional batches seems to be the only alternative.— F. M. Cymbidium lowianum.— Owing to the length of time which the flowers of this beautiful and easily-grown Orchid last, it is of much value. There are few gardens in Britain which do not possess one or more plants of it, yet it is surprising how seldom they are well grown and flowered, being usually placed in some corner of a stove house and left to look after itself. For many years it was considered to be a variety of C. giganteum, until Professor Beichenbach declared it to be distinct. Coming from Barmah and India, it requires a growing and a resting season, and a compost of rough fibrous peat and loam, with ample drainage. Unlike most other Ofchids, it likes plenty of pod room, but the watering should be much the same as that given to Dendrobiums, viz , a liberal supply while the roots and growths are active, and reduced with the temperature after these have finished their growth. The resting season is essential if successful flowering is to be attained. This usually begins in autumn. The temperature throughout should be between 45° and 55°, and the atmosphere moderately moist, t iking care that the ball of earth does not get dust dry, but at no time allow them to get soddened with water. A well-grown and well- flowered plant is a great joy, and it is nothing unusual for them to remain in full beauty for ten weeks. To those anxious to grow it and who do not know it, I refer to the photograph which I enclose. The flowers are about 4 inches across, sepals and petals yellowish green, with several faint sepia brown lines, lip cream coloured, with the erect side lobes yellow, and having on the anterior part a large velvety maroon blotch, margined with yellow. We have it in flower here now, but the photograph is of a plant I had in my charge a few years ago when in the service of Mr. Belliss of King's Nirton. — Geo. Borrows, Avon Castle Gardens. [The photograph, which showed a remarkably fine plant, was unfortunately not suitable for reproduction, but we thank our correspondent for sending it. — Ed] Memoirs of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society. — This society was founded on December 5, 1809, and two years later it resolved to publish its horticultural papers. The publication of these was forthwith commenced, and in 1814 the first volume was completed, and under the title of " Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural Society " was dedi- cated to H R H. Prince George of Wales. In 1829, however, owing to want of support, with the completion of the fourth volume the venture came to an end. Now the society essays another venture of the same kind, and trust that the present "Memoirs" will meet with greater appreciation on the part of its members and of the public generally than the original publica- tions. It is hoped that the interest which the society feels will be awakened by the appearance of the first part of these "Memoirs" will be sustained as the succeeding parts appear. The present volume contains many useful articles, e.g , " Alpine Plants," by Robert Lindsay ; "Hy- bridisation," by Dr. Jjhn H. Wilson ; " Roses : Past and Present," by the late Hugh Dickson ; "Herbaceous Plants," by R. P. ISrotherston ; "Modern Bee-keeping," by the Rev. J. W. Blake ; " Potato Problems," by W. P. Wright ; " Classification of Apples," by P. Murray Thomp- son ; "Carnations all the Year Round," by David Kidd. Altogether these essays form a volume of valuable reading matter, and we hope the society's praiseworthy eff jrt will meet with the success it deserves, and so enable them to eon- tinue the publication of the " Memoirs." Decorative vegetables. — Generally speaking the vegetable garden is the last place one visits with the object of getting decorative material for house adornment, and yet amongst the vegetable family there are many things suit- able for decoration. The humble Cabbage pro- vides one useful item, and just now the variegated Kales are producing young shoots and leaves of colours unsurpassed for brightness. Under artificial light the colours of variegated Kale are very effective, and for a dinner table many things less attractive might be employed. The first time I ever saw Siorrie's Albino Borecole I was very much taken with the colours of its leaves, and I could not help thinking that if it had been anything else except a common Cabbage it would have created quite a sensation. Some years ago a friend of mine gave me a pinch of Celery seed of a variegated variety, which produced green leaves with white stripes. As a culinary vege- table the Celery was excellent, and the leaves were freely and effectively used for decorative purposes. Once I sent a box of flowers and foliage to a friend in town, for which I received a letter of thanks, in which particular mention was made of the prettily tinted Fern fronds at the bottom of the box. As a matter of fact the Fern fronds, so-called, were simply specimens of reddish-brown Carrot leaves, which are so freely produced towards the end of the summer. There are few things in Nature prettier than Carrot tops when tinted with colour, and yet one rarely sees them used for decoration. In short, it is in the highways and byways, the vegetable garden, and th3 woodland, that the decorator may often find material for use when he has looked in vain tor something fresh and novel in the flower garden and greenhouses. — H. Cassiope tetragona.— This is a plant that will commend itself to the favourable notice of the lover of the curious rather than to those who judge a plant simply by the showy nature of the flowers. It is widely distributed from Lap- land through Siberia, and is also found in Canada. It belongs to the Heath family, and has been in cultivation for almost a century. In habit it is dwarf and creeping, and in appearance something like a Selagiaella or Lycopodium, or one of the dwarf, dense-growing New Zealand Veronicas. The leaves are very minute, and closely clasp the stems, which are four angled. Tne flowers are white, bell-shaped, and drooping, and are borne singly from the leaf axils. Its best place is the rock garden, where it should be given a cool, moist position in light or peaty soil. When well established it forms a very interesting group, being quite distinct from anything else in the family.— W. D. Spirsea argUta.— Among spring-flower- ing shrubs this is certainly one of the bist, as it forms a shapely bush, flowers freely, and is easily grown. It is of hybrid origin, and is probably a cross between S. Thunbergi and S. media. When fully grown it forms a bush 5 feet to 6 feet high, and as far through, composed of thin, brown, wiry branches, clothed with small, bright green leaves. The flowers are pure white, and borne half a dozen or so together from the buds on last year's wood, and they are so arranged that all appear on the upper sides of the branches. For single specimens, beds, or groups in the shrub- bery it is equally desirable, while for forcing it is also valuable. It is increased readily by layers, but is rather difficult to propagate from cuttings. Like other Spirteas it requires a rich, loamy soil, and gives little trouble when once established. — W. D. The Tenerifte Broom (Cytisus fllipes) — This has never attained the same amount of popularity as another member of the genus, native of the same region, viz , Cytisus fragrans or racemosus, which is largely cultivated as a market plant. Of this, however, good flower- ing examples can be grown in the regulation 4]i-inch pot or 5-inch pot, whereas the beauty of C. filipes is apparent only when it has attained a good size, say a height of 4 feet to 8 feet, with a fairly clear stem for some distance, as then the long cord-like branches hang down to their fullest extent, and thus form an exceedingly graceful specimen. As with some of the other Brooms this species is practically leafless, but as the bark of the shoots is of a bright green colour the absence of foliage is thus compensated for. In all stages this is, from its graceful character, very beautiful, but in spring, when these shoots are studded for some distance with their pure white Pea-shaped blossoms, the Teneriife Broom is seen at its very best. It is sometimes met with as standards grafted upon the Laburnum, but for my own part I much prefer seedlings, that can be trained to form a head if required or with the central stem supported by a stake, and the side branches, except the lowest ones, allowed to dispose themselves at will, a pretty effect is ^82 THE GARDEN. [Mat 13, 1905. formed. In the extreme south-west of England this may be fairly hardy, but generally speaking throughout the country it must be regarded as a conservatory or greenhouse plant. It is said to have been first introduced into this country a century and a quarter ago. — H. P. Proposed Grand Rose Show for the Southern Counties.— It has been suggested by some patrons, who are Rose growers, that the council of the Southampton Royal Horticultural Society should endeavour to make their summer exhibition the principal Rose show for the Southern Counties. It is proposed, there- fore, to institute a special subscription list to be devoted to improving the Rose classes. Appli- cation has been made for athliation with the National Rose Society, and the competitions will be under its rules. The pavilion on the South- ampton Pier, where the shows are held, is an ideal place for the exhibition of cut Roses ; the blooms remaining nearly as fresh on the second day as when first staged. Ladies and gentlemen willing to assist the above proposal are requested to kindly communicate with the undersigned at their earliest convenience, as a supplementary prize list must be sent out before the end of May. Suggestions are invited. Tickets are issued to all subscribers. The council of the society has voted £20 extra for the above. — C. S. Fvidge, Secretary, 6, Colliye Terrace, London Road, Southampton. Clematis indivisa. — Even on small plants in pots the pure white starry blossoms of this Clematis are very beautiful, but to see the plant at its best, ample space for its long rambling shoots is necessary. One has been planted out in the cooler portion of the Temperate house at Kew for some few years, and this season it has, I think, been even finer than ever. Being in a border of well-prepared soil it, of course, grows luxuriantly, and its beauty is much enhanced by the absence of any hard and formal training, for beyond ensuring the clothing of a certain space of roof the long flexible shoots are allowed to dispose themselves at will, hence a pleasing and informal picture is the result. Even without blossoms the Clematis is a pretty climber grown in this way, but when these long loosely-disposed shoots form veritable floral wreaths it is a sight to see, and alone well worth a journey to Kew. Under these favourable conditions it does not seem to be troubled by mildew, to which, when in pots, it is somewhat liable within the London district. — T. Phlox divaricata, — In soils thatcakeand become close under the influence of winter rains this Phlox is never likely to show its true worth. In revels in a rather porous soil, and enjoys a liberal amount of decayed vegetable matter. Several years ago I obtained some strong plants that had evidently been grown in very sandy soil partly composed of peat and very old leaf- mould, such as one sometimes finds in Oak woods. I put thera in light loam with an addition of leaf- soil, and they bloomed remarkably well. The next year they were not so good, and the third season growth was so poor that they scarcely gave any bloom. I then gave them a top-dressing of peat, and they at once improved. In the autumn I made a piece of soil for them, adding about one-fourth of peat, and in this they have made a luxuriant growth. When I took them up I found that nearly all the roots in the original soil had perished ; but the lop-dressing of peal was full of active fibres. — J. Cornhill. Plum blossom. — In the orchard districts of West Middlesex the Plum trees are literally garlands of snowy wfiiteness. Beside the roads on which the electric trams run the wealth of bloom and of beauty is so great that many persons are tempted to ride outside that they may drink in to the full the loveliness of this floral display. But to what will it all lead ? Of the robustness and fertility of the bloom there seems to be no doubt, but it is to be hoped all the same that but one-sixth of it, or even less, may prove fruitful. Even so much of fruit would give a great crop, and a very heavy crop of Plums is not a desirable object. It is ditticult to thin Plums on tall or standard trees, yet wherever it can be done it is best, both for the fruit and for the trees. We may think that Nature at stoning time will do her part with the thinning, but it is not well to trust to that absolutely. Plum trees on walls fruit commonly well because the fruits are well thinned. Standard and bush trees fruit irregularly because a heavy crop of Plums is so exhausting. — A. I). Peas ("Blue Boilers").— The cultiva- tion of certain sorts of Peas for boiling in adry state is carried on in different parts of the country to an extent that is surprising to those unacquainted with this aspect of the seed trade. Two varie- ties in particular are grown for this purpose, both blue round varieties ; one is known as Harrison's Glory, the other Bedman's Imperial. The Peas are mainly grown by farmers, and is found to be a remunerative crop. As soon as sulHciently ripe the crops are harvested and stacked, and then sold to seed merchants in Leeds, Wakefield, and elsewhere. The Peas are hand-picked by them, and then marketed in the midland and northern counties. Very large quantities are thus produced, and tliey are in great demand in the manufacturing districts, where thej' are a staple article of food. It is not every Pea that will boil well in a dry state, and DENDROBIUM >'OBILE. SO it is a custom with the wholesale seedsmen, should they have a quantity of any round white Peas left over, to boil a sample, and if it proves amenable to the culinary purposes to which Peas are put the bulk is sold on the market for split Peas, the boiled sample being submitted as a test of fitness. In addition to the blue Peas being sold to households for ordinary consumption, there are itinerant vendors who do a large trade at supper time by taking their stand at some favourable point and retailing thera smoking hot. The Peas are soaked in water for twenty- four hours before being boiled, when they take on a consistent softness, and by those who partake of them regarded as equal to fresh-gathered crops. The vendor of supper Peas takes them when quite hot round a certain district. He announces his presence by ringing a bell, then the house- wives troop forth with their basins, and in this way a palatable and satisfying evening meal is secured. It should be stated that when the Peas are placed in water they will absorb the whole of it; they are then placed in a second quantity and boiled in it quite slowly, simmering for two and a-half hours. Thousands of quarters of Peas are grown for this special purpose. — R. Dean. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. ) GRADING AND MARKETING ENGLISH APPLES. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] SIR,— Mrs. E. T. Moyle, evidently by her note written from New Jersey, is unaware of the great amount of preaching to our Apple growers the doctrine at once of honesty as well as of grading in sending fruit to market which has been done here for some j-ears past. At every fruit conference, in lectures and addresses repeatedly, and in the gardening Press, have home growers of Apples been urged to adopt better methods, and send to market or to shops not only their best fruit only, but also properly graded and packed in non-returnable utensils, whether tubs, boxes, or baskets, but in every case seeking to present to the public as the great purchaser the best possible fruit in the best possible way. We must not forget also that at its great fruit shows at the Crystal Palace for years the Royal Horticultural Society offered prizes for superior examples of fruit packing and grading, and these should have done much to help educate the grower into better methods. In spite of all this effort little benefit seems to have resulted. In how few cases do we see Apples sent to shops or market in other than in large, round wicker baskets, or in similar made hampers, or in other rough, unfit utensils, whilst the admirable methods of the Colonial or American grower are in no way copied. If Apples can be sent so many thousands of miles in tubs in huge quantities arid arrive here in remarkably good condition, why are not similar tuba used here ? There is no real reason why they should not be, except that we have yet so much to learn in the matter of grading, of what is right and just in trade, and of packing into the tubs only perfectly sound fruit all of one and the best size. Home salesmen and dealers rely absolutely on the honesty of Colonial packers. When they can do the same with home packers home fruits of the best quality should then find a place in every shop and store. A. D. DENDKOBIUM NOBILE. [To THE Editor of "The Garden'."] Sir,— I am sending a photograph of a plant of Dendrobiura nobile. It is flowering the whole way round the plant. Altogether 224 flowers are open. E. Burrows (Gardener to the Ven. Archdeacon of Chichester). Woolheding Rectory, Midhurst, Sussex. FOR AND THE ALPINE AGAINST HOUSE. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Your article on the above subject (page lii!)) does not give many of the reasons that might be adduced against the growing of hardy alpine plants under glass. The question, I think, resolves itself into this : Can alpine plants be grown to perfection out of doors in the British Islands without the aid of any glass structure whatever? So far as the health of the plants is concerned, they are infinitely better without any such protection, and I greatly doubt if the health of their owners is very much the better of such structures, but that is a matter on which opinions differ. It would be interesting to know "what alpines have been found to thrive better under such conditions than in their native wilds." If alpines, as you say, do belter in Scotland than in the south it is certainly not because they are pampered by glass structures. But why not a herbaceous house or an annual house ? Either or May 13, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 283 both might be made very attractive with their pots and pans and other paraphernalia. Alpine. [The letter from " Alpine," questioning the advantage of an alpine house for early-flowering hardy plants, seems to show that the writer does not quite understand the purpose for which it is intended. It is not claimed that a house is necessary for growing alpines in all the j'ear round ; in fact, it would be greatly to their disadvantage to be confined in that way. Its real use is to provide shelter for the fragile flowers of those plants that bloom during the inclement weather often experienced in this country in spring, and to enable those interested in these alpine gems to enjoy their perfection regardless of the weather. Contrast the appear- ance of a well-grown pan of Saxifraga burseriana in full flower, and which was moved into the house before the buds opened, with a patch outside, all the flowers of which have been mutilated and discoloured by heavy rains, which are usual at this time of year. Many of the Crocuses also are only seen at their best under these conditions, for most people are familiar with ruined groups of these pretty flowers in February. Many others might be mentioned which would benefit by being placed in a glass structure while they are flowering. The question as to whether alpine plants can be grown to perfection out of doors in the British Islands without the aid of glass is an opon one, for many plants of a silky nature, like some of the Androsaces, would present a sorry appearance in the vicinity of large towns like London if not protected by a sheet of glass during the winter months. A strong advocate for protection of this kind was the late Rev. WoUey-Dod. Of course, it is well known that many, if not all, alpines do much better in the north, where the climatic conditions are more akin to those obtained in their native habitats, and where they get a somewhat longer period of rest. In the more southern parts of this country they start into growth early, and are alternately forced into premature growth and cut back by frost and cold winds. "Alpine " asks why we should not have a herbaceous house or an annual house. One may naturally ask. Why employ these two terms ? for an annual is usually classed as herbaceous and would be included under the former. Many herbaceous annuals and perennials are much used for green- house decoration, and are certainly attractive enough mixed with other kinds of plants ; but a house devoted solely to their use would hardly prove so interesting as a house of alpine plants, each of which occupies but a small space. The stately Hollyhock or Sunflower can hardly be compared with a pan of Saxifraga or Shortia, for whilst the former are imposing in groups on the lawn or border, they hardly lend themselves for use as pot plants. On the other hand, the latter are eminently suitable, and by the use of a stage in the unhealed house are brought nearer to the eye, and may be enjoyed in comtort. In conclu- sion, it may be added that the sole use of the alpine house is to afford protection for plants coming and in flower which have been grown for the rest of the year in cold frames. — W. Irving, Kew.'\ [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Your leading article in The Garden for April 8 prompts me to send this note. The thoughts It gives expression to have been in my mind for some time. I shall not enter into the question of the fitness of alpine houses further than this. There are a large number of persons of lefiued taste in horticulture who from various causes cannot enjoy the pleasures of a greenhouse in its ordinary form. To them the pleasure of being able to get under a glass shelter in the early spring months and see the gradual resurrection of many of Nature's living gems would be great. I am assuming that the space covered over with glass would be laid out as a small (or large) rock garden, and the living occupants growing naturally thereon. The site would be a very important point, and can only be properly decided upon on the spot. If an alpine rockery is already in existence, or in contempla- tion, I would suggest that the alpine house, or shelter, be incorporated. What is known as a good example of a modern greenhouse would be the last sort of structure to erect. The only glass used should be the roof glass, and this should be formed of movable sashes, with not too wide squares, so as to be easily removable, from say June to December in each year. If I were called upon to erect an alpine house, I should try to get hold of some sound old sashes from some garden where the old houses were being removed to make way for modern erections. The pitch of the roof should not be too steep, say at an angle of 28" to 30°. It may be either a lean-to or span- roofed, according to taste and local conditions of site, &c. A space of say 20 feet fquare would afford room for a nice sized rockery, and the cost of covering this over need not be great. No glass at either ends or sides is necessary or desirable. The walla to carry the roof should, if possible, be built of local stone, and in as natural a manner as possible. Here would come in an opportunity of wall gardening in one form or another. More might be added as to grouping some of the choicer shrubs to mask the ends and side walls of the structure erected, but, no doubt, any one who erected an alpine house would see to that being done also. There can be no doubt that such a structure would afford interest and pleasure to many. H. J. Clayton. Grimston Gardens, Tadcaster. THE CAT AS GARDENER. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — The article entitled "Round About a Garden" in your issue of the 29th ult. is in such direct contradiction to my experience that I feel impelled to give the other side of the picture. Your contributor remarks that it is " for want of blackbirds that slugs abound," and makes a great onslaught on the harmless, necessary cat. It is three years since I had the misfortune to lose my cat, shot by a gamekeeper. Since then the birds have made very free with my garden, and black- birds and tits nest all over it. I feed them in the winter. In the spring the tits destroy the Cherry-buds and strip the bush fruit. Later on they peck holes in the Apples, so that these have to be harvested before they are ripe. The black- birds and thrushes are so assiduous at the Strawberry beds that no netting but wire- netting will keep them out. They tear at fish- netting with their strong beaks till they have made a hole large enough to wriggle through. Of course, the sparrows pull the heads off Primroses and Polyanthuses and Crocuses and even Fritillaries, and if they do eat green fly, as Mrs. de Lacy-Lacy says, they do not seriously diminish their numbers, for I have to syringe my Roses twice a week and " hand-pick " the grubs. Meanwhile the slug pest goes on unabated. I never saw a blackbird burrowing for slugs, though he does seem to get some leather-jackets. He goes to bed when the slugs come out to feed, and I gather them myself in thousands by lamp- light. My cat was a most useful gardener, for she kept the pretty birds at a distance, and now that voles, wood mice, house mice, and rats have taken to devouring Crocus bulbs, Iris roots, and the young green of my Carnations and Colum- bines, I think it is high time to call in the co-operation of pussy. Knutsford, Cheshire. H. M. Swanwick. ENGLISH V. AMERICAN APPLES. (The Gravenstein Variety.) [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — " Eon " (page 232) may be glad to know that he need not cross the great herring pond in order to eat the Gravensteiner fresh from the tree. The home of this truly fine variety is Schleswig-Holstein, and thence eastward along the coast of the Baltic Sea. Nowhere in Germany does it succeed so well as along the above coast. When I first tasted the Newtown Pippin it reminded me very much of the Gravensteiner, and I should not be surprised to hear that the latter was a very close relative to the Newtown Pippin, even perhaps directly its parent from seed. Planegy, Bavaria. E. Heinrich. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — A good deal has been written of late about the merits of the Gravenstein Apple. Last your readers should be led to lay out too much money in planting this variety, may I briefly relate my experience with it. Having heard that it was the best Apple grown in Denmark, and a great favourite with Her Majesty Queen Alexandra, I wrote for some trees from a very reliable source. I found there were five different varieties, so I planted three of each — fifteen trees. This was in 1893. They were a long time in coming into bearing, and when they did fruit we thought them a very poor lot indeed. They were allowed to fruit a second time, and then they ended their days on the fire. I should like to know if the Apples exhibited at the autumn fruit show of this variety were grown in England or Denmark, for, as we all know, there are many Apples which are good in one locality and not in another, and it is quite possible that the long days of the northern summer, which will ripen Barley in some twelve weeks after sowing, may produce a flavour in this variety which is lacking when grown under different conditions ; at any rate, I have not yet tasted Gravenstein with any par- ticular merit, and should class it as far inferior to Lady Sudeley. Lowdham. A. H. Pearson. ENGLISH NAMES FOR FLOWERS. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — The recent notes upon English names for flowers are especially interesting to those who find in them a touch of poetry or a suggestion of old-time domestic lore. In newer lands, however, such names may easily become misleading, as they are often applied in recognition of a fancied resemblance. Here, in New Jersey, Caltha palus- tris, one of our earliest spring flowers, is generally called Cowslip, though it is also known as Marsh Marigold and Swamp Buttercup. The name Honeysuckle is here applied to the native Colum- bine, Aquilegia canadensis, and also to two Rhododendrons — R. viscoaum, called White Swamp Honeysuckle, and R. nudiflorum. For the latter I prefer the name of Pinxter Flower, given by the Dutch settlers in recognition of its Whitsuntide bloom. The large, fleshy galls, pleasantly acid in flavour, produced on this Rhododendron by a gall fly, are called Pinxter Apples. We find the fragrant little Epig«a, the Mayflower of New England, described as Ground Laurel, Trailing Arbutus, and Shad Flower, the latter being its name along the New Jersey coast, where it is in bloom when the shad is ascending rivers to spawn. Here Amelanchier canadensis becomes Shad Bush. When in the middle west I was surprised to hear Forsythia called Golden Rod, which was distinctly confusing. Then there is Bittersweet, which I think in England means Solanum Dulcamara ; here it means Celastrus scandens, also called " Waxwork." The graceful wild Carrot, an "assisted emigrant" from Europe, is called Queen Anne's Lace or Bird's- nest ; I admire it greatly from an seathetic stand- point, but it is a most pestiferous weed. The Massachusetts Legislature is now considering a special Bill directed against it. Side - saddle Flower seems rather far-fetched for the Sarra- cenia, but one has the choice of Whip-poor- Will's- shoe. Ghost Flower seems more appropriate than Indian Pipe for the ghastly Monotropa. I cannot close without expressing my undying 284 THE GARDEN' . [May 13, 1905 disgust for the unpoetic soul who first called Kalmia latifolia "Calico Bush." Of course, the name sticks, though we insist that it is Mountain Laurel. Maywood, N.J. Emily Taplin Royle. THE SCARCITY OF ONIONS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir,— I am glad to know that " W. T." and myself are in agreement on some points relating to remarks made by me in the pages of The Garden- a little time since, and especially as to what I consider, after all, the most important, the suitability of much of our land for Onion culture. Granted this, in spite of anything " W. T." may say to the contrary, I am fully convinced that by adopting proper means there would be an increased demand for home-grown productions. As with Onions, so with many other products grown in this country. Compared with other countries we move slowly, and are a long way behind the times. Study the best mode of cultivation, the best varieties to grow, use more care and intelligence in harvesting the crop, and when this is done place them on our markets before the public in a more attractive way than is generally the case, both as regards grading and cleaning them, and the prejudice in favour of Spanish, Egyptian, and other countries' productions would soon cease. My object in advocating raising seedlings under glass is that the early growth made under such conditions renders the crop practically proof against the Onion fly. To me it is somewhat painful to see the splendid stretches of land of the best quality in various parts of the country practically idle, and yet we are content to say, " We can't com- pete with the foreigner," and yet have we not heard the cry all through the past winter, not only of the scarcity of Onions, but also of employment for willing hands. E. Beckett. HARDY VINES FOR COTTAGES. (Continued from page 263.) At pruning time in winter each shoot should be cut back to within a foot of its base. The following spring the buds below the cut part will again form shoots, the terminal one being encouraged to grow in an upright direction as before, and the lower buds in a horizontal form, as it is on these shoots that the fruit will be borne. These should be 8 inches apart, and allowed to grow until they are 9 inches long, and then stopped. They will then have filled the space allotted to them, which is not very great, as the foliage and growth of this variety is small, and thus a good foundation is laid. Every winter the main upright branches must be pruned back to within about 18 inches of the spot where it had been pruned the previous year, and so on until they have filled their allotted space. Summer culture is very simple, and con- sists in stopping lateral growth on the shoots and thinning the berries as soon as .they are formed. As a rule one-half of these should be cut out, and these the smallest. In hot weather during summer they should receive a layer of good manure, this being placed over the roots, and an occasional good water- ing given. One bunch of Grapes to a shoot is considered a good crop if they are of fair size, but if small, two on every alternate branch is not too many. The success of the Vines would be encouraged by syring- ing in the evening of warm days. Those preferring a black Grape should grow Heine Olga. Owen Thomas. ROUND ABOUT A GARDEN. Beauty of the Double Aeabis. THE double Arabis, whose massed white bloom makes so fine a surface for the taller scarlet Tulips to rest their flaming cups upon, has not been long enough in our gardens to have lost all claim to admiration for its generosity of bloom. In time, no doubt, its very virtue of easy multiplication will cause us almost to dis- like it, for it is certainly one of those things which "spread everywhere," and which will surely come in time to be the sign of a neglected garden, as to a great extent the common single Arabis has been for a long time. But for a few years longer we shall, no doubt, be able to admire the beauty of the double Arabis without qualms of doubt whether we should not expel so easily over- grown a 'plant from a garden with any pre- tensions to choiceness in its contents. And, while we have it, we must admit the plant to be one of the most successful results of the gardener's art in doubling single blooms. Double and Single Flowees. Indeed, it would be hard to name any other plant which has been so much improved in the process, and it should offer a useful guide to similar achievements in the future. For there are many cases in which the pro- duction of double blooms has been labour thrown away. Not one person in a score, for instance, but infinitely prefers the single to the double Daff"odil, and, comparing this with the universally-admitted superiority of the double Arabis, we see plainly the reason, namely, that the beauty of the Daffodil's airy, bell-like grace is aft'ected when the tube is as it were stuff'ed up with close-packed yellow. The single Arabis, on the other hand, had no claims to grace. Its sole merit as a flower was its early sheet of white, which soon wore threadbare ; and the double kind gives us a richer, softer sheet of better texture, which wears far better. It also gains distinction from the fact that its necessarily larger buds suggest something of the beauty of the Lily of the Valley in their style of growth. Unfortunate Eesemblances. These connexions of ideas are among the most potent factors in our judgments of flowers. Even in the case of the double Daffodil, perhaps, we should not miss its loss of grace so much if the crowded yellow tube did not carry some suggestion of the Dande- lion. No doubt, too, it is this resemblance to the Dandelion which makes the double Kerria seem so markedly inferior to the older, but rarer, single kind. If the Kerria were pale primrose colour or violet blue, we should probably admire the double kind the more, because neither Brinirose nor Violet have, as it were, sated our eyes with close- tasselled blooms of their respective colours. Although, too, we admire the common wild Daisy after a fashion, what a relief it is to the eye when the doubling of any of the small white Daisy-like flowers in cultivation removes the yellovr centre of the flower- heads, and when these leappear in self-sown plants how distressingly "common" they look at once ! Flowers Spoilt in "Doubling." But other ideas than such immediate con- nexions of ideas enter into our judgment of the respective merits of single and double flowers. Besides the loss of grace, which inevitably follows from the doubling of a flower whose beauty depends largely upon daintiness of pose and outline, there may be loss of character also. Thus half the beauty of many flowers depends upon their cup-like shape, the pistil and stamens appearing as the proper contents of some waxen bowl, and the doubling of these makes merely a mass of meaningless and uninteresting colour. On the other hand, there are limits beyond which the single flower begins to appear too thin and empty. This stage is easily reached in the Dahlia, for instance, and by placing even that usually unsatisfactory compromise, a "semi-double" bloom, beside a large single Dahlia, you see at once how the frilling suggested by the extra florets relieves the emptiness and weakness of the single flower. Dahlia and Arabis. In doubling Dahlias, however, we found it very easy to go too far ; and those who nowadays admire the close-packed heads of old-fashioned Dahlias are few. Between the emptiness of the too large single blooms, and the excessive compactness of the old doubles, the Cactus Dahlias hit a happy mean, simply because in them we have succeeded in taking away the suggestion of emptiness, without sacrificing grace and lightness. By carefully observing the general taste in flowers, and the reasons for it, florists should get their best clue as to the line to follow. In other words, those flowers will be found best worth cultivating with a view to produce double kinds of permanent popularity which have nothing to lose by the process — simply because, having nothing to lose, they have everything to gain. No better instance than the Arabis could be quoted. The plant itself had no grace, and the individual flowers no character whatever ; therefore it was, as has indeed been shown, one of the best cf all plants to operate upon. Indeed, from the florist's point of view, its few merits are bound to prove its only defects — namely, its rajiid growth, easy multiplication, and extreme hardiness, a combination of qualities which are certain to make it too common for admira- tion before long. Fashions and Rules of Colour. Almost more interesting than our fashions in single and double flowers have been the changes in colour, with which our popular plants seem to keep pace with our ;esthetic culture. Those of us who are not very " middle-aged " yet can easily remember the time when the crudest greens and blues and pinks were the colours of fashion. Then a garden party or a ballroom was a shifting kaleidoscope of clashing colours, and it was part of the legitimate warfare of the sex to buy a new frock of a colour intentionally chosen to " kill " the hue of a rival's new dress. It was about then that that most hideous of all colours, according to a majority of opinions nowadays — magenta — became almost univer- sallypopular, and among old-fashioned flowers which are pink in colour few are free from the magenta taint. On the other hand, a little while ago we undoubtedly went too far in the direction of sad and undecided itsthetic hues, and it is pleasant now to see that the colours most in favour are — in pinks, those with a healthy suggestion of carmine, and in blues the real intense blue of the gentian, with the clear pure yellows of Primrose and Daffodil. No doubt the pendulum of taste May 13, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 285 will swing from the perpendicular again, but it must always return to it, because there are rules of beauty in colour as in shape. E. K. K. THE FLOWER GARDEN. SHORTIA GALACIFOLTA. SINCE its rediscovery on the moun- tains of Northern Carolina in 1877, this beautiful plant has rapidly become a popular favourite, and judging from the quantities recently exhibited by various nurserymen at the fortnightly meetings of the Koyal Horti- cultural Society, and the modest price for which it can now be obtained, it promises to be in time one of the commonest of garden plants. It is well adapted for moist situations in the shade of taller-growing subjects, such as Heaths and kindred plants, the same soil suiting both admirably. On a northern aspect in the rock garden it makes itself at home, but to obtain the brightest colouring in the evergreen foliage it should be planted where it can receive the influence of the sun's rays for a portion of the day. It is not adverse to the sun for a limited period, providing that thei-e is plenty of moisture in the soil. It is also a most valuable plant for the alpine house in winter, with its elegantly coloured green and bronze-red foliage, followed in March by its bell-shaped flowers, which vary in colour from white to rose. After flowering it should be taken out of the house and plunged to the rim of the pot or pan in a north frame, to remain there v/hilst it is making its growth. After this is completed it may be exposed to more sunlight to develop the colouring in the leaves. Alto- gether a charming and easily- grown plant, it deserves a place in every garden. It is figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 7082. W. I. CROSS-FERTILISING THE AURICULA This is a very interesting process, and it is one that should be per- formed with set purpose and methodically. Young plants giving their maiden bloom should be selected for the purpose ; the act of bearing seeds imposes a certain strain on the plants, and those which are young can bear it better than the older ones. Those who make the attempt to cross- fertilise should be very careful to cross green edges with green edges, grey edges with grey edges, white edges with white edges, and selfs with selfs ; indiscriminate crossing of these classes will lead to confusion and a mixed progeny ; the aim of the cross-fertiliser should be to intensify the distinct features of each type of the Auricula. The late Mr. John Read, the raiser of Acme, Ruby, &c., once in a communi- cation he made to me set forth in detail his method of cross-fertilisation, and I cannot do better than give it in detail. "My practice in crossing the Auricula for seed is as follows : Having first selected the two varieties in the same class, in as nearly the same stage of maturity in the pip as possible, choosing the seeding-bearing parent for form and the pollen- bearing parent for colour ; then so soon as the pip partially expands, and it is possible to see into the tube and note that the anthers have not burst, with a pair of small-pointed scissors I cut away the pip just below the anthers, being careful not to injure the stigma with the scissors in doing so. There is then no danger of self- fertilisation or of being crossed by insects, as they will not approach a mutilated flower. When the pollen-bearing parent has an expanded pip and the anthers are in a powdery condition, I, on a fine sunny morning, examine the stigma of the prepared pip, which will most probably be in a fit state to receive the pollen, and will present to view a viscid appearance on the summit, then with a camel's hair pencil, drawn to a fine point by placing it in the mouth, I collect a portion of pollen from an anther and insert it into the mutilated tube, scattering the pollen over the stigma, to which it will adhere, repeating the operation to make doubly sure, and if the day be fine and warm it is possible soon to witness the effect produced on the stigma. If other crosses are to be made I cleanse the camel's hair pencil from any grains of pollen remaining on it by passing it through my lips, a practice the seeds being surrounded with a delicate woolly substance. It is, therefore, usual with some, at the time of sowing, to sprinkle fine dry silver sand pretty freely over the seeds, and rub the seeds and sand well between the hands, when the two become thoroughly mixed, and then sow all, doing so in lines in the open, about 9 inches apart, and cover very lightly with some fine soil to the depth of a quarter of an inch, or else broadcast in boxes in a cold frame. Care should be taken not to exceed a quarter of an inch of covering, a thicker coating will sometimes prevent germination. Seeds may be sown in March and on to the month of July. In three weeks or a month they germinate ; the seedling plants in the open drills can be thinned out as required, and transplanted ; those sown in boxes will need planting out when large enough, Messrs. Reamsbottom and Co. point out that " the great secret in growing St. Brigid Ane- mones is not to plant the roots deeply, 2 inches of soil being quite sufficient covering." This is an important point. They further state that "the Anemone likes a position sloping to the south or west, and though the plants revel in moisture, stagnant water about the roots is fatal to their well-being. It is best, therefore, to GROUP OF THE BEAUTIFUL SHOBTIA GALACIFOLTA IN MR. HENLKY-ON-THAMES. OBISP S ALPINE GARDEN, FRIAR PARK, with other raisers of seedlings." I trust the foregoing will prove' both interesting and instructive to your correspondent. R. Dean. SOWING SEEDS OF ANEMONES. We are indebted to Ireland for some of our finest strains of Anemones. I think it was Mr. F. W. Burbidge who gave the designation St. Brigid to a fine strain single and double, of Irish origin, and that has been materially improved upon bv Messr.». Reamsbottom and Co. of Geashill, King's County, who make a point of exhibiting their fine strain at various of the spring and summer shows in this country. Then there are Messrs. Gilbert and Son, Bourne, Lin- colnshire, who have also done much to improve the strains they grow, and especially of the double scar- let type ; they also are in evidence at exhibitions. Anyone acquainted with the seed of the Anemone knows it to be of a soft, fluffy character. plant in raised ibeds, 4 feet wide, with a trench 9 inches deep on either side." I am persuaded that excessive moisture about the roots in winter has destroyed the fair promise of several beds about London. A well-drained position is, there- fore, essential to the well-being of the Anemone. The authority already quoted adds : " The ground should have plenty of well-decayed manure dug in previous to planting, but care should be taken that it does not come into actual contact with the roots, though it should be only an inch or so beneath them. If left in the ground after the foliage has died down, which usually takes place in June or July, the bed should have a layer of old hot-bed or other well- decomposed manure, aboutaninchindepth, spread over it as soon as the foliage has disappeared." I sometimes look over the catalogue of Anemones, published by Mr. Carey Tyse of Wal- lingford in 1851, and note his list of the best fifty double Anemones. Those were the dajs when 286 THE GARDEN. [May 13, 1905. Anemones, both double and single, were named, and classed with florists' flowers. Some of the double varieties must have been very beautiful, but there is reason to fear they have all become lost. Perchance, the time may come when the Anemone will once more appear to the fore, and if so enter- prise will enter upon the work of reproducing what has been lost, for the possibilities of the flower from seed are great. K. Dean. way of a small mountain road after twenty- one days' hard travel. After a few days' rest 1 made a trip to the Yalung River, 100 miles west of Tatien-lu. On returning I scoured A BEAUTIFUL NEW HARDY FLOWER. (^Meconopsis integeifolia.) T the meeting of the Royal Horti- cultural Society on the 25th ult., the beautiful novelty Meconopsis integrifolia was shown in full flower, and attracted much atten- A received tion. certificate from the floral com- mittee, and we heartily con- gratulate the exhibitors, Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Ltd., on acquir- ing so remark- able a novel t}'. A long account of the plant in Messrs. Bee's nursery was given in The Gaeden, Sep- tember 17, 1904, page 188, but this is the first opportunity we have had of figuring it, and we hope also to illustrate it in colour. In the Gardeners' Chronicle, October 1,1904, it is fully de- scribed, and we take the follow- ing particulars from that journal. The seeds were col- lected by Mr. E. H. Wilson, whose work as a collector is already re- nowned. "One of the principal objects of Mr. Wilson's second journey was to obtain seeds of Meconopsis in- t eg r i f o 1 i a. Writing from a town in Western China at the end of July, Mr. Wil- son says : " ' I returned safely yesterday after an i absence of eleven and a-half weeks. The | trip proved the longest and most arduous 1 1 have undertaken. I reached Tatien-lu by THE EEADTIFDL NEW MECONOPSIS (M. INTEGRIFOLIA). (Slighthj niluccd.) the Tatien-lu neighbourhood, and finally left on the return journey on July 11 by the ordinary route. I enjoyed the best of health the whole of the time. " ' The journey from Tatien-lu to Yalung River proved to be a bigger undertaking than I expected. On June 19 we experienced a blizzard of snow and sleet the whole of the day. Snow lay thickly on the ground, and on the top of the pass (altitude 14,.500 feet) it was over :? feet deep. I was so numbed with cold that I could hardly sit in the saddle. My men suf- fered from the eifects of the rarefied atmo- sphere, and some had their toes frost- bitten. All of us suffered more or less from snow- blindness. We were a pitiable- looking parly when w u returned to Tatien - lu ; I had to turn family doctor for a time. I am glad to have had the expe- rience, but never again do I want to travel in the moun- tains of Eastern Thibet. Wc travelled with ponies and yak, and were well received by tlic natives every- where. '"The highest altitude reached was 16,100 feet, which is prac- tically the limit of vegetation seen on the more open tab 1 elands or plateaux. The feature of these higher mountains is the wealth of Rhododen- drons. I have written you much in praise of the Chinese R h o d o d e n - drons, but my pen is too feeble to paint you the jiicture as it really is. To see miles upon miles of mountain-side one blaze of Rhododendron flowers is to see something better to be imagined than de- scribed Supplement to THE GARDEN, May iiili, 1905. 1 P ■m-vM*.;,. PHAIUS TUBERCULO "a May 13, 1905.J THE GARDEN. 287 "'Turning now to the main object of our search in these wilds— Meconopsis integri- folia — I have nothing but success to report. I have found it in millions. The dried material in herbaria gives no real idea of the magnificent flowers this plant has. The flowers are often 8 inches to 10 inches in diameter, of a lovely bright yellow colour. I have seen on one plant as many as fifteen flowers expanded at one time. This, how- ever, was exceptional. The usual number is from four to six. I counted the flowers and buds on fully a hundred plants, and found they averaged eleven to each plant. The largest number was eighteen. The number of petals is often in excess of the normal five. It is a common sight to see a thousand or more in full flower together. The species is never found below 11,000 feet, and 15,500 feet marks its upward limit. From my more extended observations this year I have lost many of my fears in regard to its possible ill- behaviour under cultivation. Treat it as a hardy, moisture-loving plant, give it a place in peaty or leafy soil, and I believe you will suc- ceed. Whatever you do, do not coddle the plants, or you will kill them. Mother Nature is harsh in her woods and clearings in these mountain fastnesses. The plant is un- doubtedly a biennial.'" COLOURED PLATE PLATE 1274. PHAIUS TUBERCULOSUS. ORIGINALLY figured by Thouars k in 1822 under the name of I Limodorum tuberculosum, and f afterwards renamed Phaius tuberculosus by Blume, was the very handsome and distinct terrestrial species so well depicted in the accompanying coloured plate. It was intro- duced to cultivation by M. G. Warpur in 1900, as a supposed new terrestrial species of Phaius, among some interesting Orchids brought over by him from Madagascar. Some of these plants were sent to Kew, where they were grown on and reached the flowering stage in January, 1901. It was then that R. A. Rolfe made the surprising discovery that this supposed new species that was to Cookson has made wonderful progress with the same beautiful species, using it both as a pollen and a seed parent, and the series of hybrids produced form an interesting and desirable section of plants, which Mr. Chap- man, the able gardener at Oakwood, culti- vates so successfully. P>oth species, P. tuberculosus and P. simulans, are natives of Madagascar, the former being found in half- dry humus at an altitude of 1,200 feet to 1,500 feet, while the latter grow on tree trunks at lower elevations. This plant has always proved a rather difficult one to culti- vate successfully, especially after it has once thrown up a strong flower-spike. I well remember a finely-grown plant flowering with a strong spike in the collection of the late Rev. Handley of Bath in 188.3, and was commented upon in The Garden ; but this plant, like many others, never survived to produce another such spike. In the true terrestrial species we have a plant with a stronger constitution, and as it comes TREES & SHRUBS DAPHNE BLAGAYANA. THERE are many members of this genus, but this plant is probably one of the rarest seen in robust health. When it can be successfully grown it forms a beautiful shrubby plant of rather straggling growth, with tufts of leaves at the tips of the branches. The bunches of fra- grant white flowers are pro- duced freely in March, and last in full beauty for a long period. It is eminently suited for the rock garden, planted in an open situation, and pro- vided with perfect drainage and plenty of stones for the roots to ramble amongst. After flowering is over it is advisable to layer or top-dress the plant bj' placing on and between the branches a quantity of good-sized pebbles with a little soil, gradually building up the whole into a mound, with the shoots just appearing at intervals all over it. A mound of this description many feet in diameter is a beautiful sight in the early spring at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin, where it is successfully cultivated, and flowers abun- dantly. Climatic influence evidently plays a most important part, and the mild winters of the Sister Isle are conducive to its well-being. It is a native of Carniolia, and is by no means abundant in a wild state, and although it may be increased by layering, it is still somewhat rare in gardens. It is figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 7579, as well as in The Gaeden, 1878, XIV., 200, p. 143. W. Irving. A COLONY OF DAPHNE BLAGAYANA AT FRIAB PARK, HENLEY-ON-THAMES be introduced as Phaius Warpuri was none other than the true P. tuberculosus, and the epiphytal species which had been posing under that name in gardens for over twenty years was nothing but an impostor, without a name of its own. Strange to say, the flower produced by the latter species has a remarkable resemblance to those of the original, especially in colour, and it was this reason that induced Rolfe to rename the epiphytal species P. simulans, under which name it is now recognised. The intercrossing of the genus Phaius was first commenced in 1887 in the cele- brated collection of Norman C. Cookson, Esq., Oakwood, Wylam, Northumberlaiid, and it is interesting to note that the species P. simulans (then under the name of P. tuberculosus) was used as the pollen parent with P. Wallichii, and produced P. Cooksonii, the first hybrid of pure Phaius parentage which flowered in 1890. Since then Mr. from higher elevations, naturally requires a less degree of heat. In the collection of R. J. Measures, Esq., Cambridge Lodge, Camber well, it grows freely at the coolest end of the Cattleya house, and quite recently a plant there has produced a spike of eight flowers. To the hybridist this is a plant of great importance, as he is now provided with better material to work with. Until the present no hybrid has been recorded from it, but no doubt there are many seedlings fast approaching the flowering stage. A suitable compost in which to grow these plants consists of equal parts turfy loam, peat, and partly decayed Oak leaves, together with a small quantity of chopped sphagnum moss, and plenty of small crocks and silver sand added to render the whole porous. West07ibirt Gardens. H. G. Alexander. [Owing to a printer's error the last " u " is an "i" in tl ' " plate.— Ed.] 288 THE GARDEN. [May 13, 1905. GARDENING FOR B8GINN8RS. HARDY PLANTS FOR CUTTING. Iceland Poppies are very useful for cutting. Sowseeds thinly in August in well - pulverised soil. If sown outside or in boxes in a cold frame, prick off into other boxes, winter in a cold frame, and plant out early in spring. Sow a few seeds annually. On rockwork or on a well- drained site some plants assume a perennial character. The seeds are small, and must be covered very lightly. Self-sown plants are gene- rally very strong. Coreopsis grandiflora. — Though this is classed with the perennials, it is best to sow a few seeds annually, as the plants flower so freely. Many plants die in the winter from exhaustion. It is one of the best yellow flowers for cutting we have, being light and graceful. Chrysanthemum maximum (Ox-eye Dairies). — There are quite a number of varieties of these now. C. Johnsoni is one of the best of the large- flowered sorts. It is very robust in habit, and flowers more in succession than the type, espe- cially if broken up and transplanted to a fresh site every two years. Eriijeron speciosus superhiLi. — This is an excellent plant for cutting, and there are so few things of this shade of colour (mauve) which flower for so long a time. It is, like all the things we are naming, a cut-and-come-again plant ; the more it is cut the more it flowers. If raised from seeds, sow in boxes in a frame as soon as ihey are ripe, and prick out when large enough to handle in a nursery bed. All hardy things raised from seeds should have this treat- ment. Scahiosa caucauca. — The Russian Scabious is one of the best flowers for cutting. It produces its large, salver-shaped, mauve-coloured flowers very freely all the summer. Old plants very often die off in winter, so the stock should be replanted annually either by division or seed. The division should take place before the plants become exhausted by flowering. Many are raised from seeds. It is best to sow in a box in a frame, though the plants may vary a little from seeds. All will be found useful. Oypsophila panicidala. — This is a very useful plant for cutting. Though the flowers indi- vidually are small, it lasts in season some time. It has not inaptly been called by florists the Fern-saver, because it can be used as a base for other flowers. It is best raised from seeds where much stock is wanted, though old plants with several crowns may be divided. It has thick, strong roots, which descend deeply into the ground, and should be planted in a well-broken- up site. It is not a good grouping plant, and is best grown as a small bush in the borders. Pyrethrums, double and single. — Propagation by division is best done in spring early in April. Mulching and watering will be necessary to give the young plants a start. If raised from seeds the seedlings will flower the second year. They make handsome groups in the border. Among the doubles the following are good : Mont Blanc, white, early and free ; Niobe, lilac ; and M. Barral, rosy crimson. Good singles are Warei, crimson ; Gertrude, blush ; James Kelway, crim- son-scarlet ; and Juno, rose. The singles are the most popular. For cutting one scarcely wants many sorts. SIMPLE HINTS. Bulbs ill the Flower-beds. — There are two ways of dealing with these. One may leave them in I he beds and plant the summer flowers among them. This may answer for some things, but it always, till the foliage of the bulbs die down, has an untidy appearance, and, like all com- promises, each crop has to make some sacrifice, and to cut off the foliage is very hurtful to the future flowering of the bulbs. Neither can the beds be properly prepared for the summer- flowering plants when the bulbs are left in the ground. The best way is to take up the bulbs carefully with all the soil that will adhere to them and plant them elsewhere to ripen, and then dry them off and keep them in a dry state till planted again in the autumn. The beds can then be properly prepared, and, if necessary, manured for the summer bedding. The best manurial dressing is a compost chiefly of charred garden rubbish mixed with old potting soil and a little short manure. White Fo.vgloves. — These make very effective groups in the wild garden, and will, when once started, look after themselves. We have found it best to raise the first batch of plants in the kitchen garden, sowing the seeds now, and trans- planting to the spots they are to occupy. After- wards let them sow themselves in a natural manner, scattering in pictureique groups. A companion plant to this is the common Evening Primrose {(Enothera biennis). Bath these plants show up well among dark-leaved shrubs. Fungoid Diseases and their Remedies. — What is known as Bordeaux mixture is a preparation of copper sulphate. It is easily applied bj' spraying, and is not expensive. We learn from a little pamphlet published by Messrs. Tomlinson and Hayward, horticultural chemists, of Lincoln, that lib. of Bordeaux mixture, added to ten gallons of water, will be the minimum strength for most things, and, assuming that 120 gallons are required to spray an acre of Potatoes, the cost of the mixture would work out at 7s. Gd. per acre. The Beginner's Difficulties will certainly include troubles with fungus, and he will find a cheap, easy way of destroying fungus spores on the full- grown plant very serviceable. Spraying with sulphate of copper, according to our present knowledge, seems the cheapest and best remedy. The mixture may be sprayed over Potatoes, Roses, Vines, Carnations, and all other plants liable to fungus attacks. Tomatoes in the Open Air. — Large growers very seldom raise their plants in pots. The seeds are sown in warm frames on slight hot-beds in March, and are transplanted to other frames when large enough to handle. Being always near the glass, the growth is sturdy, and when planted out a robust start is soon made, the progress being rapid. Unless planted against a wall or wood fence this must have a sheltered sunny spot, and be trained to stakes. Do not crowd. Plant in rows 3 feet apart and 18 inches between the rows, and train to a single stem, all side-shoots to be rubbed off promptly. When four trusses of blossom have been made stop the leaders, and pinch all growth in close. By giving the plants plenty of room all the foliage may be left on till nearly the end of the season, and the air and sunshine are required to ripen the fruit. If the land has been fairly manured, there will not be the necessity for using strong stimulants, which sometimes, when used in excess, may cause the fruit to crack. If the land has been deeply worked during the winter or spring make it firm before planting by treading, as all things do best in firm land, provided it is not the firm- ness of unmoved, unworked land. Run the hoe through the surface between the plants once a week if possible, and there will be no trouble with weeds or disease. Up-toDate, Holmes' Supreme, Early Ruby, and Challenger are good varieties. Brussels Sprouts. — This is still one of the best of the winter vegetables, and there is not the same difficulty in obtaining a good strain of seeds as was the case years ago, when it was thought imported seed was the best. Every good seed house has a specially-selected stock, and this care in selection is worth paying for. Sow for the first crop indoors in February, and prick out the plants in a sheltered spot outside when large enough, and plant out finally in May, towards the end of the month for the earliest crop, in rows 3 feet apart and IS inches to 20 inches between the plants. Sow seeds outside in March or April for later use. As a dish of Brussels Sprouts is alway.=i appreciated, the early-planted lot will come into use during autumn, and should be used when ready. When the Sprouts are young very large old ones are not so good as the medium-sized young ones. What is meant by mulching and its olijecls. — The term mulch is, we think, from the German, and, literally, means rotten straw, but the term with us has a wider meaning. Anything placed on the surface of the ground to conserve its moisture by checking evaporation or to aflford nutriment to the plants is, in garden phraseology, mulching. If we want to nourish the plants we use manure. If the object is merely to check evaporation a freely - stirred surface will suf- fice. If one wants crisp, cool Lettuces in the summer spread a layer of manure among the plants. Mulching Raspberries. — A covering over the roots of Raspberries is a great help to them, and saves much labour. Other things, such as rotten leaves or grass mowings from the lawns, are sometimes used to check evapora- tion. Strawberries are Midched with Long Litter, for the double effect of checking evaporation and forming a clean bed for the fruit. The terra "top-dressing," often used by gardeners, is merely a form of mulching. A couple of inches of rich compost placed on the surface of a Vine or any other fruit tree in a pot is a great help, and will serve to illustrate the principle of mulching or top-dressing where nourishment is required. On the other hand, where the hoe is used freely enough to maintain a loose surface, that suffices often to keep the moisture in the soil. Open-air Grape Vines, — When Forsyth, the Royal gardener, wrote his book upon " Fruit Culture" early in the last century, open-air Grapes received a good deal of attention, and these, thinly trained on a warm south wall, were good. But cheap glass has led to the Grape Vines in the open air being neglected. With properly-made borders and the roots nourished by suitable top-dressings, which should include some chemical manure, bone-meal, and old plaster or lime in some form, and more care taken with the pruning and training, the cottager in the country may again live under the shade of the Vine and Fig tree. May 13, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 289 GARDENING OF THE WE^K. FLOWER GARDEN. GENERAL REMARKS —The most important work connected with the flower garden at present is - gradually to harden off tender summer-bedding plants, Pelargoniums, popularly called Gera- niums, being still largely used for this purpose. Autumn - rooted cuttings that were potted early or mossed, as advised in a previous calendar, and are now bristling balls of roots, should be moved into cold pits, where temporary protection can be afforded them should frost occur. Pot on or moss later spring-struck cuttings as they become fit, and keep them growing on sturdily, as many are yet small. Tuberous and Fibrous BriiGONiAS.— These form another class extensively used for bedding and grouping, and are well adapted to succeed, so to speak, the Geraniums, for practically, in humid districts especially, no Geraniums bloom freelv after the first half of September at the latest, except it be an exceptionally dry fine autumn. By then the Begonias have become a prominent feature, blooming well iu rain or sunshine until cut down by frost. Most of the tubers by this time will have started into strong growth, and these should be the first to be turned out into the pits, either planting them for the time being in light, rough leaf-soil, or boxing them thinly in the same material. Keep them close and slightly shaded for a few days only until the roots commence to work into the fresh material, when air must be admitted freely, even to full exposure during favourable weather, but efficiently protected from even a suspicion of frost. Thus will the foliage attain that crispness and stiffness indicative of vigour and health. SEEDLINGS of the same should eventually be worked on similar lines, but not yet. In the meantime keep them growing freely, thinning out and re-boxing frequently, affording ample room for development to root and leaf without becoming drawn and thin. It is essential to give these as long a season of unchecked growth as possible to ensure a good show of bloom during their first season. The same treatment in the main applies to the fibrous section. They are best raised from seed annually, but as they approach the blooming stage from the sowing in much less time than the tuberous kinds it is neither necessary to sow so early nor push them on so hard. Although the flowers are many sizes smaller than those produced on tuberous varieties, they are nevertheless indispensable for grouping, the leaves of most assuming a glossy attractive hue as the season advances, so that flower and foliage combined produce very fine effects. Keep gradually moving the varied stocks of bedding plants from the warmer to cooler structures, according to condition and hardiness, avoiding sudden checks through sudden changes, and press on with propagating whatever is likely to be short. Even late stock is often acceptable and useful to complete arrangements. ANNUALS, such as Phlox Drummondii, Dianthus, Mar- garet Carnations, Salpiglossis, Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Petunias, Nemesias, Alonsoa, Delphinium, &c., that were raised in more or less heat and subsequently pricked out must now be exposed to the weather unless actually frosty, for the time is near for their transference to their allotted quarters. The Spring Garden being now gay— at its best or just passing out of it— care must be observed in keeping every- thing in perfect order and neatness, giving an incon- spicuous stake where absolutely necessary, adding a tie here and there where the flower-stems have grown and likely to topple over or snap. Pick off dead leaves and blooms, and pull out all weeds. Keep the edgings neatly trimmed, lawns and grass verges regularly mown and clipped, and the walks perfectly clean and frequently rolled. The Gardens, Tan-y-hwlch, liortk Wales, J. Roberts. INDOOR GARDEN. Primula kewensis.— This plant has come rapidly to the fore as a decorative subject, being a great improvement on both its parents. So far increase of stock has to be done by division, although I believe a few seedlings have recently been raised by Messrs. Veitch. After flowering shake out the old plants and cut up into sUigle crowns. Those with roots can be potted up singly and placed in an intermediate house. Insertthe remainder as cuttings, either singly or four or five in a pot in lightsandy soil. Place under a hand-light or bell-glass in the same house. If stock is limited the old flower-spikes may be put in as cuttings. Cut off just below each whorl from which growths are often obtained. Use a compost of three pans loam and one of leaf-mould, with plenty of sharp sand for potting on. If a few larger plants are required, select some of the stronger, and pot on into 7-inch or 3-inch pots. Ferns. — The majority are now growing freely, and plenty of atmospheric moisture will be necessary. As the young fronds develop, rearrangement of the plants must be done from time to time to prevent overcrowding. The proper shading of Ferns is important. On the south side of the house it is as well to put on Summer Cloud, rolling down the blinds during the brightest part of the day. The position occupied by the different genera in the house has much to do with their well-being. Adiantums and Gymnogrammas are much better if grown in a lighter position than Polypodiums and Platyceriums for instance. Syringe the stems of Tree Ferns occasionally with weak manure water. Where a number of Kerns are grown, it is advisal'le to raise a few young plants each year. Hard-wooded Plants— Plenty of work can be found amongst these plants at the present time — pruning into shape, cutting back, potting, and top-dressing. The potting of Epacris and Erica hyeraalis should by this time be completed. Careful watering and ventilation are necessary, especially after potting. The cold winds recently experienced are nearly sure to bring on mildew. Sulphur the affected parts as soon as detected. Cut back Boronias as they pass out of flower. Pick off old flowers and seed -pods, and encourage the growth of Azaleas. Eriostemons require little pruning, cutting off the long growths to keep the plants in shape is all that is required. If possible all the hard-wooded plants should be grown together. Syringe the houses on all favourable occasions. General Remarks. — Prune Gardenias into shape as flowering ceases. Clean thoroughly, as they are very subject to insect pests, especially mealy bug. Pot or top- dress when breaking into new growth. Insert cuttings of Thrysacanthus rutilans and Peristrophe speciosa in a propagating frame with bottom-heat. The earlier rooted cuttings of Gloire de Lorraine are ready for potting on. Where large specimens are grown the house is better if shaded rather heavily. Keep up a warm moist atmo- sphere. Poton Acalyphahispida. Sponge once a week and syringe frequently, otherwise red spider will soon make its appearance. Stake Achimenes in pots. Little or no staking will be required by those in baskets. Royal Botanic Gardens, Eeiv. A. Osborn. KITCHEN GARDEN. Cucumbers.— Where space is limited, frames that have been emptied of bedding plants can be very profitably occupied with Cucumbers prepared for this purpose. Grown in frames their fruits may not be quite so shapely as if grown in pits or forcing houses, but for salads they will equal those grown in more pretentious structures. As a little warmth at the roots is necessary to give them a start, some leaves and stable manure should be collected, and pre- pared as advised for climbing Beans in a former calendar. Should heating material be scarce its warmth can be husbanded by throwing out the soil in the centre of the ground where the frame stands, and filling it up with the heating substance in the form of a mound. Surrounded by mother earth the heat will be maintained for agreater period. This simple fact is often overlooked. Cover the mound with thin turves and the remaining part with fresh soil. Make it a point to have the frame and plants ready at the same time. When the young Cucumbers have been planted give shade to prevent flagging for the flrst day or two only, and cover with mats at night. Mushrooms.— Where it is desired to grow these out of doors, horse-droppings should now be collected and prepared as formerly advised. By the time the Mushroom spawn has begun to run, night temperatures should have become higher and Mushroom growth more active. When making up the beds choose a shady spot where the drainage is good. Behind a north wall is a favourite position, but Mushrooms succeed well out of doors on beds made in the form of a ridge. The material for these must be quite 3 feet deep in the middle. For protection hurdles thatched with straw answer very well, as by this means heavy rains are thrown off and the surface of the beds kept in a nice buoyant condition for Mushroom growth. Peas.— A sowing must now be made for keeping up the necessary supply. The Telephone variety is admirable, being wonderfully exempt from attacks of mildew, a free cropper, and of delicate flavour. Prince of Wales is also a Pea which should be included in this sowing. Its haulm does not attain a great height, and its robust constitution helps it to resist blight and mildew, while its flavour is delicious. Continuity is also a late Pea that I can confi- dently recommend for its robust constitution, heavy crop- ping, and rich flavour. Chou de Burghley. — It seems to me that the virtues of this delightful vegetable are not surticiently advertised in seed lists. To my taste its flavour is inflnitely superior to the finest of garden Cabbage, which vegetable it so much resembles in appearance. Its hardiness should also recommend it to vegetable growers. A sowing made now will turn in useful for autumn supplies, and another sowing made about the second week in June will be ready in time to furnish a welcome addition to the spring supplies. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Eirkcvdbright. ORCHIDS. Epidendrums.— Such Epidendrums as E. Schomburgki, E. Ellisii, E. evectum, E. radicans, E. arachnoglossum, E. cinnabaiinum, E. o'brienianum, E. radico-vitellinum, E. radico-xanthinum, and E. Boundii all bloom at this season, and are well worth cultivating. Their easy management renders them very suitable for beginners in Orchid culture, and amongst the Epidendrums there are few which continue so long in flower. Strong growths will often produce a panicle that will keep on opening flowers in succession for several months. At Burford a plant of E. Ellisii began to open its flowers the first week in January, and is quite fresh now. It is likely to continue so for several ,weL-ks longer. All the Epiden- drums mentioned are very useful for cutting and for decorative purposes generally. These plants will grow thoroughly well in a light position in the intermediate house, and plenty of water should be afforded them all through the growing season. Repotting may be done after the flower-spikes are cut or when growth recom- mences, and they will root freely in the usual Orchid compost, but prefer rather more sphagnum moss than peat. The well-known Epiphronitis Veitchii also pro- duces its cinnabar scarlet blooms at this season, and in some collections where a considerable number of this lovely hybrid is cultivated flowers are to be seen almost the whole year round. E. Veitchii should be grown as advised for the above-mentioned Epidendrunia. The majority of the plants enumerated are very easily propa- gated by taking the offshoots which appear on the old growth and Howei-steraa and inserting them thickly around the edge of a flower-pot, in well-drained sphagnum moss and coarae silver sand. Those varieties which have a scandent habit like E. radicans should have the shoots tied around neat stakes, keeping the young growths well up towards the light. L.ELIA cinnabarina, also in bloom now, is a plant that, from its distinctly coloured bright cinnabar red flowers and the length of lime it lasts, deserves to be more generally grown than it is. The plant will thrive in shallow Orchid pans that may be suspended well up to the roof glass of the house, and it is important that these pans should be small in proportion to the sizes of the plants that are put in them. Plenty of drainage should Ue afforded. I have found it to succeed better with less sphagnum added to the peat than most plants. It will generally be found to do well in a light, airy part of the intermediate house. Another Orchid with bright cinnabar red flowers which blooms at this season is L.ELIA harpophylla.— After the flowers fade the compost should be kept just moist, and when growth recommences it may be repotted if necessary. Theordinaiy Orchid compost will suit it, but the plant does not require much root space. Plenty of moisture is necessary till growth is completed. The coolest part of the intermediate house is the best place for it. PHALJINOPSIS.—Such plants as Phalicnopsis schilleriana, P. amabilis, P. Aphrodite, P. stuartiana, P. leucorrhoda, and P. Esmeralda are commencing to make new leaf growth, and young roots are becoming numerous. It is now a good time to examine these to ascertain if more space for the roots is required. If the potting materials are decayed they should be replaced with fresh. Phalai- nopsis may be cultivated with success either in Teak wood baskets, Teak cylinders, or shallow pans. When it becomes necessary to place the plants into larger receptacles, the old material and the drainage should be carefully picked out, then the baskets, itc, should be dipped in tepid water for a short time, so that the roots may be detached from the wood with as little damage as possible. Those that are to be grown in baskets or cylinders should have plenty of new crocks afforded for drainage. Place the plant in the centre with the collar well above the rim, then spread the roots out and carefully work in amongst them some chopped moss, add a moderate quantity of broken crocks, and press it moderately firm around the base of the plant ; then surface the whole with clean, fresh moss. Those to be grown in pans may have dried Fern rhizome for drainage, the compost consisting of chopped moss, leaf soil, and small crocks, in equal parts, with a sprinkling of silver sand ; this also should be covered with sphagnum moss. Suspend the plants on the shady side of the hottest house, and for the first few weeks after root disturbance keep the surface of the moss, and around the sides of the baskets, &c., just moist, merely sprinkling them occasionally with tepid rain water, using a fine rose watering-can. At the same time, every precau- tion should be taken not to allow water to lodge in ihe centre of the plants, otherwise the leaves will decay. Burford Gardens, Dorking. W. H. WHITE. FRUIT GARDEN. Newly -PL AN TED Fruit Trees.— These will require special attention till they have become established in their new quarters. They must not suffer for want of water at the roots, especially it new loam has been used in planting. It is almost impossible for water to penetrate new soil when once it has become dry, so when water is necessary make sure that sufficient is given to thoroughly saturate the soil about the roots. Mulch with short litter or any other suitable material that may be at hand. This will save much labour in a dry season, and will be of material benefit to the trees. Any trees that show signs of exhaustion must be syringed morning and afternoon when the weather is fine and mild. Peaches and Nectarines.— The spell of cold easterly winds which we experienced during the early part of last month was accompanied by the usual attack of aphis, and It has needed very persistent measures to keep it iu check. Beside the periodical application of insecticide, the trees should be given a thorough washing with clear water in the afternoon during fine and mild weather. Cold winds will have favoured " blistering" on the leaves, and these must be picked off' and destroyed. Keep a look out for the first appearance of mildew, and dust the affected parts with fiowers ot sulphur. Begin thinning the fruits by first removing the small and misplaced ones. Continue to disbud at regular intervals till the shoots have been reduced to the desired number. Trees which have been lifted or root-pruned must be occasionally examined and thoroughly watered when necessary. Raspberries.— Old plantations will receive much benefit if a good mulchiog of well-seasoned farmyaid manure can be given to them. Much good may also be done by watering with diluted liquid manure whenever it is necessary. Remove suckers as they appear from between the rows, and thin out all weakly growths from the stools, retaining only sufficient for the production of nest year's crop. The plants which are intended for the autumn supply produce, as a rule, far too many growths. If these are not severely thinned the crop will probably be very disappointing. Examine trees which have been recently grafted, and if any of the clay has cracked or fallen off it must be replaced. The clay must be kept moist by damping with a fine mse or syringe. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. 290 THE GARDEN. [May 13, 1905. THE KITCIHEN GARDEN. EAKLY CABBAGES. I SHOULD not have troubled you with this note, as most large growers have experienced the same results as given on page 144, of a few early Cabbages being fit to cut on February IS, but it is asked. Is it a record ? I think not, as in our own case we have cut KUani's J'larly Dwarf in February, and even in January when the seed was sown early. Another point that may be overlooked is that field Cabbage, when sown early and planted out before the plants get drawn, do so much better than in a garden where the plants are hardier, and they grow away more freely. The same plants in an enclosed garden, sown at the same lime, often run to seed. In a garden there is too much coddling, if the phrase can be used, and the seedlings are frequently grown year after year on the same site, which has a tendency to weaken the plants. Last spring (early in March) I saw good breadths of field Cab- bage, the variety being Earliest of All, in Hampshire, and was surprised to see them so early. The seed was sown the first week in July, and the seed- lings were planted out in August when quite small. Doubtless these resemble Webb's Emperor as regards earliness. They are moat valuable, as the latter does not run to seed, a failing that some varieties have it sown at all early, or left too long in the seed-bed. Gbower. EHUJ5ARB FROM SEED SOWN IN SPUING. It is not unusual to grow Rhubarb from seed, but it could often be done to advantage in gardens where quantities are required for forcing. A few years ago I was showing a breadth of seedlings to a well-known grower of vegetables, and I dwelt upon the advantages of this method. From the appearance of the plants my friend thought the seedlings three times their age, and I find others think the raising of Rhubarb from seed a slow process. It certainly is not if the plants are well grown ; and there are other false ideas, one being that it is out of the question to get plants from seed true to name. Tliis is an error, of course. Much depends upon how the seed is saved, but this being true the plant rarely fails to be equal if not superior to the parent, as it has splendid vitality, and for some seasons is most vigorous. Seed sown this month in well prepared soil will give splendid forcing roots the second winter, but much depends on the seed at the start. It must not be crowded, and transplant early. For forcing I much prefer it to larger roots, or pieces of old plants. The seedlings should be given an open sunny quarter, and 1 should advise seed from other sources. I do not oare for home- grown, unless it is a distinct variety one wishes to grow on, and then the seed should be grown away from other plants. G. Wvtiiks. GAIT LI FLOWERS. The common complaint that Cauliflower heads are exhibited of too large a size, has some basis at some exhibitions, where judges ignoranlly encourage mere size but it tloes not, as a rule, apply to the heads shown by first-class growers. No good judge of exhibiting material puts up a pde of huge Cauliflower heads that are not in harmony with the other exhibits staged, hence in any good collection a great efi'ort is invari- ably made to equalise or balance the respective dishes, and thus produce a perfect whole. But Cauliflowers need not necessarily be allowed to develop to an inordinate size. If the ground in which they are planted be highly enriched with manure, and the plants wide apart, heads develop into great size rapidly, and often are large before being noticed. Still great size is practically inevitable in such a case. To have heads of more moderate dimensions it is better to plant rather closer, as that checks excessive leaf development, but it is not well to have the ground poor for Cauliflowers, as being large leaf-producers they are gross feeders. Still farther, the more quickly the white heads are produced the more tender are they for eating. For table or for exhibition solid white heads, G inches in diameter, are amply large for all purposes. The Early Forcing, Snowball, or Matchless type, as a rule, produce heads of this size quickly on a warm Isorder, if put out some IS inches apart each way, and quite being covered at night with mats, growth is also very rapid once the plants get a good start, avoiding extremes of temperature. For a few seasons I have advocated in Tiik Gakden' the value of Lettuce sown as early in the year as possible under glass. How much superior these are to those grown on open borders, I mean with regard to the quality. When such sorts as Golden Ball are grown the gain is great. We grow several varieties in this way, but as regards earliness Golden Bill is one of the best. The old Commodore Nutt is little inferior, and for succession Veitch's Golden C^lueen is dillicult to beat. G. Wythes. A LATE LEEK -ROYAL FAVOURITE. Those who require a varied supply of vegetables of the best quality as late in the spring as possible, would do well to give Sutton's P^oyal Favourite a leading position in the garden. Late in April few vegetables are more useful than the Leek. For many years I grew a good batch of Mussel- burgh for latest use, but the newer introduction is better, and though in some respects it is not unlike it, having a deep green leaf, the latter are larger, broader, and the portion bleached ia larger. At one time Leeks were not so much grown for late use as at the present time, but a vegetable that will remain good till well into May is most valuable. I think that the keeping removes the strong flavour some dislike, at any rate, such sorts as Royal Favourite are delicious ODONTOOLOSSUM THOiMPSONIAN0M, (Uii^cii a firnt-clctfis certificate liil the Orchid Cmiuniltee oj' the Rmjnl UiirticiiUiiral Sociclii, nn the :.':''lh utt., and nhiiwil litj Mr. W. ThompKun, Walton Grawje, Sttmc, Stafs.) a large crop can thus be taken from a small area of ground. All later are fairly strong growers and need close watching to prevent undue develop- ment. Unfortunately, a breadth turns in so simultaneously that some heads are overlooked, become too large, and, as a result, are generally wasted. A. D. AN EARLY FORCING LETTUCE IN SPRING (GOLDEN BALL). Few vegetables are more important than early Lettuces, and though, of course, the Lettuce comes under the heading of salads it is important to have Lettuce with a compact solid heart as early as possible. Unlike many other vegetables it will stand hard forcing ; by this, I mean it may be grown in heat from start to finish. This season Sutton's Golden Ball from seed sown the first week in February was fit for use within three months, that is, in less than thirteen weeks there were compact little plants with close hearts. As in a private house Iha most edible portion is the heart, the other, though equally good, is often wasted. It is a great gain to have such varieties that take up little room, grow rapidly, and are attractive when sent to table. I have referred to heat, but with prepared manure and a close frame, the glass when cooked, having a mild agreeable flavour so different to the Onion. It is surprising what good plants may be had for the supply at this season with quite ordinary culture. It is not necessary to make trenches. Plants grown in shallow drills on the flat, in well-manured deeply- dug soil, give good results indeed. Grown thus, such varieties as Royal Favourite may be had large enough for any purpose. The stems blanch easih' by moulding them up in the late autumn. V,. W. S. ODONTOGLOSSUM THOMP- SONIANUM. Tiii.s is oue of the most remarkable Odonto- glossums ever exhibited. It is the result of a cross between O. crisymm and O. lulwardii, and partakes of the character of both parents. Tlie flowers, which are the size of a small O. crispum, have the shape of this species, and arc deep chocolatecriinson, with the end of each sepal and petal tingctl with luirple. The lip, which is rather pointed, is also choco- late-crimson, with purple tip. Tlie ilowers are produced at the end of a long scape, as in O. Edwardii. The plant shown before the May 13, 1905.1 THE GAEDEN. 291 Orchid committee of the Eoyal Horticultural Society on the 25th ult. had seven flowers and buds upon a scape about 4 feet long, and laterals were developing below. A first-class certificate was awarded to this plant, which was shown by Mr. W. Thompson, Walton Grange, Stone, Staffs (gardener, Mr. W. Stevens). TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Aas^weps.— The Editor intende to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, atid with that object will make a special feature of the ' ' Answers to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely written en one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of THE GARDEN, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters 07i b^csi- ness should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he m^y desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Leg'al Points.— TTe are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as clear and explicit as possible, so that there can be no doubt as to the point of the question. Answers will be found in a separate column headed "Legal Points." Cyphipediom (£'. J?.). — The Cypripedium sent is the true C. niaslersianum, an East Indian species. It may have been a seedlinp, but we are quite sure it is not a hybrid. The length of the flower stem is one of the distinctive characteristics of this species ; it is often 2 feet high. Increasino the Size or Violet Flowers (E. J. P.). — Your plant is an interesting form of the common sweet-scented Violet, Viola odorata. With liberal treatment it should make a useful variety. Are your plants growing in an exposed position? This would cause them to die down. Select a piece of ground shaded somewhat during the hottest part of the day, preferably a piece dug and richly manured in autumn. Divide the plants into single crowns and plant 1 foot apart, and syringe in the evening after a hot day. Hoe the ground between the plants frequently. You could make the bed of a suitable size for covering with a frame in autumn. Plants for Border (Woodbank). — You have, unfortunately, omitted to say of what the hedge is composed, and there is a wide difference between Holly, Privet, Quick or Thorn, Horn- beam, and Beech. However, you had better as a precautionary measure dig out a deep and wide trench the entire length of the hedge at 2^ feet from its centre, and in this way cut away all roots with which you come in contact. The Whitethorn, while not producing so great a mass of fibrous root, will send out superficial root thongs to a dozen or more feet from the hedge bottom, and all such must be got rid of before you will obtain any good results from planting. In any case you will be well advised not to plant nearer the hedge than 3 feet. The ground will require trenching and manuring. The width you name is hardly sufficient for the length, and if it can be spared 7 feet would be better, of which 4 feet could be planted with some hope of success. You have asked us for advice, and our suggestions, we trust, will be accepted as such. If you can follow these suggestions we think in this somewhat shady border many Lilies would be quite at home, such, for example, as L. candidum, L. speciosum in variety, L. tigrinum in variety, and many more. It is late for planting many of these now, and we think you would obtain a good display from such things assingleand double Sunflowers, Kniphofias, Bocconia, Michaelmas Daisies in variety. Peren- nial Pea, Day Lilies, and Gaillardiaa, while nearer the front you might plant freely Flag Irises and Pyrethrums. The former of these could be planted in a dozen kinds quite well, and we feel sure their delicate shades would appeal most strongly to you. Other useful subjects would be Aster Amellus, Rudbeckia, Oriental Poppies, Echinops, Trollius, &c. In the autumn Daffodils could be introduced, and the places to be occupied then by these bulbs could now be planted with an assortment of early-flowering Chrysanthemums. Sweet Peas could be planted, and any annuals you choose. Too frequently the shady border is neglected, yet it often happens that a large number of plants do uncommonly well. Write to us again if you think we can further assist you. Annuals to Sow {Annual). — Besides those named in your letter you could sow Candytuft in several varieties, hybrid Dianthus or Indian Pinks (Eastern Queen and Crimson Belle are good sorts), Nemophila insignis, Linum grandi- Horum, Sweet Sultan, and Alyssum maritimura. You have left the seed sowing somewhat late, and to obtain the early flowering you name the seeds should have been sown in March or very early April. Sweet Peas would be excellent, but to have these in flower so early you should sow in pots in frames, and plant out early in April. The Cupid Sweet Peas are a very dwarf race, not more than 6 inches high, and in any district where these are a success they are ver}' serviceable. Many other annuals could be named. Those given, however, reach the flowering stage rather quickly, and, with the exception of Sweet Sultan, which could be hastened by sowing in a frame or cool greenhouse, the others would be best sown in the open garden. Planting a Hedge ( Washington).— We should certainly advise a live hedge in preference to a fence, and there are many subjects available for the purpose. There is nothing equal to the Yew and Holly, but, as you say, they take some time to grow, though, if good well-rooted plants a couple of feet high are obtained, the height you mention for the fence (3 feet) will not take long to be reached The Privet is, of course, a much quicker grower and a good deal cheaper. The Beech and Thorn are deciduous, and the first named would, we think, be too tall for you. Lawson's Cypress (Cupressus lawsoniana) forms a beautiful quick- growing hedge, and it bears cutting well. This would in all probability suit you better than any other. The Sweet Briar makes a beautiful screen, but it is deciduous. If your district is not too cold Berberis Darwini can be recommended. The Osage Orange can be obtained here, but not in quantity, and it is too tender for the purpose named by you. The Optimus Turf Cutter, figured in The Garden for April 22, page 246, is a very useful tool for cutting the edges of the grass. Fernery, &c. {B. 0.).—You might make a very pretty fernery in the position you name. It would, perhaps, be better to give more light if possible ; Ferns, although supposed to be such shade-loving plants, will stand a good deal of sunshine, yet, if the full benefit of all the light is obtained from each end, there may be sufficient for most Ferns to do well. There is a large number to select from ; those from North America, Japan, and many of our British Ferns should do well. Of the latter, the common Poly- pody, some of the best varieties of the common Hart's-tongue, Polystichum angulare, P. aculea- lum, P. Lonchitis, and others, Adiantum capillus- veneris and its varieties, Lastrea peeudo-mas and its varieties, Asplenium adiantum nigrum, A. trichomanes, AUosorus orispus, and Osmunda regalis. Of Japanese Ferns, Davallia buUata, Osmunda palustris, Lastrea Sieboldi, Polystichum conoavum, and Cyrtomium falcatum. Of those from America, Asplenium ebenium, Adiantum pedatum (deciduous), Cystopteris fragilis, and Woodwardia radicans americana. Of Selagi- nellas, kraussiana or denticulata is one of the best ; serpens Browni and densa will do well. For the house, Habrolhamnus elegans and Plumbago capensis planted out will flower well all through the season. Campanula iso- phylla alba in baskets suspended from the roof would be pretty. Some of the Cannas of the Crozy varieties do well, both foliage and flowers being showy, either planted out or grown in large pots they always look nice. Camellias would also do well, and several of the Acacias would do planted out or in pots. For the rockery under glass, to make a show in summer, you might put in any ordinary greenhouse plants, such as tuberous Begonias, Fuchsias, and Pelargoniums (any of the Cape species). For spreading under- neath, Tradescantia zebrina, Ficus repens, and Campanula isophylla, blue and the white. Sola- num jasminoides and SoUya Drummondi would cover large rocks. Much depends upon the arrangement of the rockery and the space to cover. Among small stones some of the Cacti, Sempervivums, and other succulents would do well. To Preserve the Colours of Pressed Flowers {May F.). — It is not easy to give a general rule for this, as different kinds of flowers require different treatment. Do not press a bunch of flowers together ; spread them out so as to be clear of each other. If ycu have a bunch of May snip out half the flowers and press them separately ; then if necessary you can put them back again after they are dry. In some flowers it is necessary to separate the petals and press them singly, and then put them back again, as in a red Poppy. .Juicy flowers, like Bluebells, must not be pressed very hard at first, and the blotting- paper must be frequently changed and warmed, as they take a long time to dry, while Harebells can be pressed harder and dry quicker. To get the flowers to look well requires much care and patience and constant attention ; there is no short way of attaining it. It is better to press several specimens of the same flower, and then after they are dry choose the best ones to stick down on paper. The best stuff I have found to stick them down is cold French glue, bought in little bottles at the artists' colourmen ; very strong gum will do. Stems and sticks should be held down with little slips of paper. Do not stick flowers in books unless you want to fill the book with patterns for ornament. Separate sheets of cartridge-paper are better for a botanical collection. — R. J. 6. R. Fruit Bottling (/. Harlne). — The following we have found an excellent and successful way of preserving all kinds of fruit. The bottles must be perfectly dry and the fruit fresh. To every pound of fruit add half a pound of sugar (castor or granulated), and one heaped dessertspoonful of glacialine. Sprinkle the sugar and glacialine between each layer of fruit, the last upper layer having a more liberal sprinkling than the others. The bottle (a wide-mouthed one) should be shaken and filled quite to the neck, then tied with bladder or air-tight papers. Tie a piece of newspaper lightly over this to prevent its cracking in the oven. Place the bottles in a cool oven or large vessel of water on the stove, and let them stand until the fruit sinks and some juice is seen. It does not matter if the sugar is not all dissolved when taken from the fire, as that will dissolve afterwards. If the bottles are placed in vessels of hot water some straw should be put under and between them to prevent them touching one another. The water should never boil — only just come to boiling point. A large cool oven is the best. After gently attaining to this point of heat, let them as gradually cool down until quite cold. Treated in this way and stored away in a cool dry place, they will last in good condition for any reasonable length of time. Any of the following fruits may be preserved in this way : Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Goose- berries, Currants (black and white), Raspberries, Strawberries, Cherries, &c. 292 THE GAEDEN [May 13, 1905. Bishop's Weed ( Victim) — We regret we are unable to assist you in getting rid of this great garden pest, which in some soils is more than a nuisance. It is not usually found in the turf as in your case, and one would have thought machine mowing would have kept it in check. Even though you dug up the turf, &c. , the smallest particle of root will grow, so that in this way the task is a hopeless one. Have you tried carbolic acid, first plunging a pointed stick into the bottle of acid and then into the growth points of the weed? This, however, requires using with extreme care. Many troublesome- weeds are greatly weakened and diminished eventually by not per- mitting the leafage to grow, plucking it off as soon as it appears. Browx Spots ox Gros Comiar Vine Leaf (.4. B Mill-ton) — This variety is very subject to this disease. The foliage of this Vine in its young state is especially soft and sappy, and any moisture there may happen to be in the house seems to be attracted to it, saturating its foliage more than it does such varieties as the Muscats. This being so, its foliage naturally takes a longer time in drying in the morning, thereby exposing the surface of the leaves to the rays of the sun at a time when its power is greater, and when the globulesof moisture are still clinging to the foliage, thus causing burning or scalding, hence the spot. The best wa}' of overcoming this annoying diffi- culty is to have a little heat in the pipes during the night and early morning until the leaves are fully developed and well hardened. Leave a chink of air on the ventilators night and day, opposite to where this variety is growing, until the foliage is hard enough to stand exposure to stronger sunlight. Since adopting this practice we have been quite free from this complaint. WHITECAMPANnLAFORCARPF,TING(i?. T.S.M. ). C-impanula pumila alba is the only white variety we could suggest, and this is practically deciduous in winter in many districts, the new growth appearing rather late in spring. Fur these reasons we do not think it is suitable, and again, all these dense growing Campanulas, the Harebell kinds especially, sooner or later take entire possession to the detriment, and often the exclu- sion of, the rightful or the original occupant. We should think a " mossy" Saxifrage as Stern- bergii, Stansfieldii, lindesiana, or hypnoides elegantissima, all white-flowered kinds, more suitable, as these provide an evergreen carpet all the year round. These plants are more tolerant of the permanent things, which is important, and are easily increased or reduced, and much more quickly cover the ground. If not too large for your purpose we would mention the double white Arabis, a very fine plant. What are really suit- able carpeting plants depends largely upon the plants that overtop them, and the plant, while being simple and rapidly increased, and sub- mitting to transplantation at almost any time with impunity, should not be in flower with the other plant, nor should any carpeting plant be of an aggressive nature. Plants or Almost Sunless Greenhouse (Deronia) — The conditions being so averse to the growth of flowering plants, only very qualified success could be looked for. As the house is unheated, this naturally reduces the number of suitable plants which might otherwise be grown. We think the Camellia might be grown success- fully in such a structure, especially if the plants were in pots, and could be taken out of doors in summer and placed in some sheltered and partly shaded position in the garden from July to October. They would then flower in such a house for several months during winter. Chrysanthemums also would succeed well if taken under glass early in Oi;tober. For the summer decoration of such a house we would suggest that Fuchsias grown in pots and trained under each rafter would prove a great success. The graceful pendant branches of these beautiful flowers hanging over the Ferns you propose to grow would have a charming effect. During winter, whilst the plants are dormant, they occupy but little space, and may be stored in any spare corner of the greenhouse. Passiflora Ci-erulea is another plant which would succeed fairly well under such conditions. This Passion flower is of comparatively rapid growth, and would furnish the walls and roof with pleasing foliage and beautiful hanging pale blue flowers in a short time. This is summer flowering. Sola- num jasminioides is another decidedly beautiful free flowering climber that would succeed on the roof and walls of such a house, and its profusion of white flowers could not fail to give pleasure. A Few Hardy Perennials and Biennials FOR Next Year's Supply of Cot Flowers {F. Loniai). — You may sow many, or, we may say, the majority of our best hardy flowers during the present season, and gather flowers from them next year. Such, for instance, as Erigeron speeiosum superbum, the Galegas, Delphiniums, Heleniums, Veronicas, Campanulas (both biennials and perennials), Achilleas, Anemones, Aquilegias, Coreopsis, Gaillardias, Lupines, the Lychnis, and quite a host of other invaluable plants for cutting. Chrysanthemums— Twelve Good Early and Mid-season Outdoor Kinds {F. F. L.)—ln reply to your request for twelve Chrysanthemums of the varieties mentioned, suitable for cut flower selling, in white, bronze, and yellow, the follow- ing are more likely to meet your requirements than any others we can name : Carrie, Horace Mirtin, and Maggie are three very excellent yellow varieties. White Japanese varieties are well represented by Market White, White Qaintus, and the newer Rji des Blancs. The latter is a beautiful acquisition. Good bronze varieties are Nina Blick, Rosie, Polly, and Rocket. To complete the set you will do well to include Crimson Marie Massii, a rich chestnut bronze, and Howard H. Crane, a brilliant chestnut, flowering in October. Chrysanthemums — How to Grow Twelve Good Blooms on Decorative Plants {E. C. A.). Your list of varieties embraces quite an interest- ing series of plants and types of the Chrysanthe- mum, and you should have little difficulty in growing at least a dozen good blooms on each plant. We are glad to know that you do not want to grow exhibition blooms, as this will very much simplify the culture of the plants you name. Your selection includes semi-early, mid- season, and late sorts, so you should have no difficulty in maintaining a displaj' from October till December. As your plants were rooted in January, you will be well advised to pinch out the point of the shoots at once. From this pinching take up three or four shoots of those that subsequently evolve, and when the first series of buds appear at their apex again take up two shoots. From this point the plants should be grown on to the terminal buds, and the latter retained when sufficiently developed. In this way each plant should carry at least twelve shoots to the terminal buds, and the best-looking and most promising bud on each shoot should be secured and the others removed. From the fore- going reply you will see that it is not necessary to pinch the plants more than once to achieve the object 3'ou have in view. Alicante Vine Bleeding (William Hedge).— The Alicante Vine, in our experience, is more subject to bleeding after pruning than any other variety we know. Its wood is softer, and its sap vessels, we think, not so minute as other sorts, and its sap is more easily excited into activity. If copious bleeding takes places for any length of time, a sensible weakening of the Vine necessarily results. To stop the bleeding the cultivator's object should be to keep the Vine as cool as possible while it is in a dormant state, and let the point of the stem hang down as low as possible, at the same time persevering with Thomson's Styptic, which is the best preventive we know. As soon as the Vine shows sj raptoms of growth by the swelling of the buds, this growth should be freely encouraged, as it is only when free growth takes place that the bleeding is effectually stopped, this growth appropriating to itself the escaping sap, thereby stopping the bleeding. As your Vine is now making free growth, we hope and believe that a stop will soon be put to it. Geraniums (Zonal Pelargoniums) for Winter Flowering (E. B). — Cuttings of winter-flowering Geraniums should be inserted at once, and potted up as soon as rooted. The cuttings should be rooted singly in 2-inch pots, and subsequently potted up into 5-inch pots. Just before putting She plants in their flowering pots the point of the shoots should be pinched out. This will have the eti'eet of making the plants bushy. Daring the summer stand them outdoors on boards in a sunny position to ripen and harden the shoots, without which the plants will not flower during the winter. About the second week in September pick olf all buds, and place the plants in their flowering quarters under glass, and from October till March maintain a temperature of from 50" to 55". We should be disposed to cut back the leggy plants intended for summer bedding. Keep them rather dry for a time, they will soon break away again. Regard- ing the Ivy-leaved sorts, by all means stop the l)lants if you wish to make them bushy. We are jileased to answer your questions. Turning Hydrvngea Flowers Blue (J. H.). As far as we know there is no certain receipt for turning the flowers of Hydrangea Hortensia the beautiful deep blue seen in some localities. Some advocate the use of iron, either in the form of iron filings added to the soil or by watering from a tank half filled with old iron, and so heavily impregnated that the water is of a deep red colour. Others advise alum, and recommend watering twice a week with a solution formed by adding 2i z. of alum to 1 gallon of water, some, again, add loz. of sulphate of ammonia to this mixture. These several receipts are often, but not invariably, effective in changing the colour of the flower from the typical pink to a bluish hue, but rarely to that clear blue seen in naturally-grown specimens. It is alleged that powdered slate will turn the flowers blue. As you are anxious to obtain blue flowers, it would be worth your while to tr}' the different methods on separate plants, when you would see which was the most successful. M. E. Andre, writing a short while back in the Eenie Horticok on blue Hydrangeas, stated that near Angers there was mould sold at a high price as " soil for blue Hydrangeas." This soil was analysed and found to contain nitrogen, 0'4103; phosphoric acid, 01168; lime, 0 0504; magnesia, 0 2000 ; potash, O-OS.W ; soda, 00043 ; oxide of iron, 3-4100 ; and sulphuric acid, 0 0857. Manure for Narcissus (If. Price). — Wo are chiefly guided by the character of the soil and the subsoil when applying manure to Narcissi. For example, in all soils of a light and very sandy nature we prefer manure from cow sheds, giving preference to that about three months old. In the more holding soils we would unhesitatingly use light horse manure in conjunction with ashes from the garden rubbish fires, the latter to be strewn over the surface before planting. Sharp grit is also very useful where the drainage is by no means good or free. The best time for applying the animal (organic) manures referred to is in autumn at planting time, placing the manure not less than 6 inches below the bulbs, and giving a rather liberal supply on all stony or sandy soils. So placed the roots, i.c , fibres, do not come into immediate contact with the manure when emerging from the bulb, which is not desirable. It is better for such as Spurius vars., obvallaris, Ard R'gh, and the white Ajax kinds when manure is used to bury it even more deeply with a view of bettering the lower soil, May 13, 1905.] THE GAEDEN. 293 keeping it cool, and Bustaining growth for the longest period. Mulching the surface for these deep-rooting subjects is not much good, and ample supplies of liquid manure would be much better. Repotting Aurtcdla3 [E. D,). — Do not repot thetwo Auriculas having offaetsatonce. Waituntil June before doing so, as the offsets, being attached to the parent plant, are increasing their roots and gaining strength, and they do this much more rapidly attached to the plant than if they were divided now. But in June repot all six of the Auriculas, the well-rooted ofifaets can then 'be placed singly in 3-inch pots ; the weakly ones ■may go round the sides of a rather larger pot ■until they are strong enough to be put into pots singjy. Early repotting at the end of May ■or early in June is much to be preferred to August. There is no book dealing solely with , the Auricula. Such a book would prove very "Useful to many amateurs, but it is very doubtful a there would be a demand for it sufficient to raake it commercially remunerative. Most of the gardening papers deal with the culture of the Auricula from time to time. Names op Plants.— Jf. A. R. C— Daphne floniana. W. S.— 1, Spirsea canescens. This was without a number, and there was no No. 2. No. 1 label was loose in the box. 3, Berberis Darwinii ; 4, Cistus laurifolius ; 5, Griselinta Jittoralia; 6, Iris fcetidissima variegata; 7, Cupressus niacrocarpa ; 8, Leycesteria formosa. G. E. W.—X, 2onal Pelargonium Marquise de Moy ; 2, Zonal Pelar- gonium Stephanie Pol ; 3, Zonal Pelargonium Gloire Lyonnaiae ; 4, Cydonia (Pyrus) japonica. J. Winder.— The Calla or Kichardia flower enclosed is not R. Pentlandi, whose spathea are of a rich golden yellow colour with a small blotch of crimson just at the base, but R. Adlami, which is very rarely met with. The foliage of the two is much alike ; indeed, they may be but forms of one species, but from a garden point of view they are very distinct. These South African Richardiaa have been a good deal crossed with each other both here and in their native country, so that somr* of the intermediate forms are difficult to determine At all events you have a very beautiful Calla, and though in a Continental catalogue we find that Adlami is cheaper in price than Pentlandi, it is in this country at least much the scarcer plant of the two. ■ W. LaJber.— No. 1 is Gloriosa grandiflora, which is by flome classed only as a form of Gloriosa superba, a plant widely distributed throughout most tropical countries. At the same time the flowers of yours are of a clearer :yellow than those usually met with, but we think they will become suflEused with red before they drop. Gloriosa :grandiflora principally occurs along the warm regions of "West Africa. No. 2 is Haemanthus raultiflorus, a native ■of much the same district. The Haemanthus, though fairly well known, is by no means a common plant, for as a Tule it does not long thrive under cultivation, while a ■Oloriosa as yellow as yours is decidedly uncommon. F. C. 3f.— Spiisea Thunbergi. J. Comber. — Erica carnea .(typical); Azara Gilllesii (correct). J. C. G. i2.— Ber- Jberis Darwini. Erratum.— The Midland Daffodil Society.— In our report of this society it is mentioned that there was only one exhibit in class 9 for six Parvi-coronati, Messrs. Pope and Son being first. This is incorrect, as Mr. Young was second, and Mr. Watts third. The last-mentioned was given an award of merit (as well as the bronze medal) for his beautiful Polyanthus-Primroses, and also a first-class certificate for the same flowers by the National Auricula and Primula Society. TRADE NOTES, BuRBKA Weed Killer. This is a labour-saving age, and as with machinery so chemicals play a large part in effecting saving. Recently a test haa been made upon garden paths and drives with a •preparation called the Eureka Weed Killer, and it h&^ been found most effective in its action. It is supplied either as a dry powder to mis with water or in liquid form, both preparations being the same in price and effect. though the powder seems generally preferred. The ■solution is easily applied by means of a water-can with rose, and within a short time of application the weeds, moss, and other growths are killed, and the ground is brightened and cleansed without being disturbed. It has been found that the average cost for treating 100 square .^arda of path is only 1«. 6d. The makers of the Eureka jpreparatiuns are Tomlinson and Hayward, Limited, Lincoln. Mr. John 'prootor, Dbvanha House Gardens, Aberdeen. TllR. John Proctor, who was for many years gardener to the late Sir William Henderson, Devanha House, Aber- deen, has not now to leave the gardens which he cultivated -3o aacoeaafulty for many years, and which were sola on account of the death of his employer. Mr. Proctor has -come to terms with the syndicate which purchased the -estate for building purposes, and has acquired the tenancy of about three-fourths of the grounds. Here he will carry on the business of a fiorist and market gardener. His success in his new venture will be earnestly hoped for by many friends. — Communicated, BOOKS. Li'Opnementation Florale des Japdins.*— Our excellent friend M. Albert Maumen^ is unquestionably one of the most prolific and one of the best known writers on the art of floral decoration in the garden. His contributions in our contemporary, Le Jardin, and his numerous treatises, of which we have already noticed several in these columns, are abundant evidence of the way in which his teaching is accepted by those of his fellow countrymen who are interested in such subjpots. This little volume, issued at the price of 2fr., is neatly printed, and illustrated with sixty-five cuts. It is a practical work, clearly and well expressed, and contains many designs of flower- beds and other decorative garden compositions that remind us somewhat of his " Mosaiculture Pratique." Although many of the illustrations and descriptions apply to work done in the principal public gardens of Paris, they are such as can, with more or less modification, be applied to smaller places, and even to private amateurs' gardens. A few of the headings may help to give the reader an idea of the scope of M. Maumene's new book, viz. : " The Style of Floral Decorations in the Gardens of the Luxem- bourg;" "The Park Monceau, the Champs Elysees, and the Avenue of the Boia de Bou- logne;" "The Champ de Mars and Trocid^ro Parks;" and "Vases in the Decoration of Gardens," the whole being a practical review of the summer ornamentation of gardens in 1904. Harmonious association of flowers, dwarf beds, groups of shrubs, details of chromatic arrange- ments, and every conceivable subject dealing with the floral decoration of gardens during the summertime are here fully discussed, explained, and dealt with by a past master of the craft. The publishers (La Librairie Horticole) have now brought out a very large number of French gardening books on almost every subject, and we mention this more particularly with ihe object of drawing attention to the detailed catalogue of horticultural literature that the establishment has just issued. It is at once the most varied and comprehensive list of French gardening and botanical books of popular utility that we have seen, and should be in the hands of every horti- cultural book buyer or student of garden bibliography. L'Hytapidation des Plantes.t— The author of this work is a writer of quite a series of little pamphlets on gardening and kindred subjects, although his name is perhaps not so well known in Eagland as some of his fellow eountr3'raen. His works include treatises on Orange trees. Palms, kitchen gardens, bulbous plants. Begonias, Mushrooms, pruning of fruit trees. Melons, &c. M. de Noter's mo=t recent work is a handy little manual of about ISO pages, in paper wrappers 12mo. in size, with numerous illustrations in black and white. The book is riilher better printed than most of the ordinary French gardening pamphlets we have had sent to us of late, and the subject matter is treated in a way likely to render service not only to gardeners, but also to amateurs. The instructions for the artificial fertilising of flowers, in order to produce novelties in form, colour, and suitable for culti- vation in the northern part of France, are plainly given. In all there are thirty-four chapters, each one as a rule being devoted to a single family. In the first part we have a chapter on general considerations of the structure of flowers. of artificial fertilisation, of the way in which to prepare the subjects, of the pollen and its action, and the explanation of certain technical terms used by the author in his work. The second part takes us through the whole domain of Queen Flora. Directions as to the cross-fertilisation of Asters, Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, Narcissi, Pelargoniums, Irises, Gladioli, Tulips, Lilies, Yuccas, Tritomas, Fuchsias, Orchids, Primulas, Verbenas, Violas, Cinerarias, and very many other flowers classed in their proper famili -s are all included. Most of the chapters have excellent illustrations explanatory of the text, and the compendious little volume that M. de Noter now puts before the public is certainly an interesting and instructive addition to his already lengthy list of horticultural publications. * " L'Ornementation Florale des Jardins." By Albert Mautneu^. Librairie Horticole, 84, bis Rue de Grenelle, Paris. t " L' Hybridation des Plantes." By Raphael de Noter. Librairie des Sciences Agricoles (Charles Amat, Editeur), 11, Rue CasaeLLe, Paris. SOCIETIES. ..J SPRING FLOWER SHOW AT NORWICH. The Norfolk and Norwich Horticultural Society held its spring show on the 28th ult. at St. Andrews Hall, Norwich. Unfortunately, owing to the early season, the best of the local Narcissi growers could not show, necessitating a falling off in this respect. However, the show was very pretty by reason of the numerous entries of other cut tlowers and pot plants. Roses and Carnations were a fine feature, as were also the hardy herbaceous flowers and fluwering shrubs. Mr. George Davison, gardener to Major PeLre, Westwick House, was a noteworthy winner in these latter and many other classes. The largest class was for thirty-six varieties of Narcissi, three blooms of each, the first prize for which was secured by Mrs. A. Cator of Wondbdstwick. Mr. Woodhouse, gardener to Lord Justice Cozens Hardy, Letheringsett Hall, was a prominent winner in Ibis section, his stands comprising quite recent varieties. Mr. W. Chettleburgh, gardener to Culonel Rous of Worstead n')use, took a great number of prizes for exotic cut flowers and virious subjects in pots. Mr. W. Rush, gardener to ¥. P. Hinde, Esq., Thorpe, Norwich, was the best exhibitor of foliage plants. Orchids in pots were a better show than formerly, Miss Fellowes, Shotesham, and Mr. C. Palmer, gardener to .T. B, Coaks, Esq., Thorpe, both managed to beat Mr, Rider Haggard's gardener thia year for six. Fruits were not so strong a section as one would have expected. Mr. G. Baker, gardener to B. E. Fletcher, Esq., of MarhngfoTd, had the best Apples, Mr. George Davison the best Pears, and Mr. C. Palmer, Strawberries. t The trade was well represented by the following : Messrs. Daniels Bros., Limited, Norwich, a grand collec- tion of Narcissi ; Messrs. Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, with a tasteful display of Roses and Carnations, including a plant in bloom of Philadelphia Rambler ; Messrs. B. R. Cant and Son, Colchester, of Roses in many varietiei ; Messrs. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, rockery and alpine plants arranged in their novel way ; Messrs. Barr and Sons, Narcissi and Tulips ; and Messrs. Stark and Son, Ryburgh, of a mixed collection of spring plants. Mr. W. Smith ably carried out the secretarial duties. The judging was done by the Rev. T. H. Marsh, Mr. F. Atkinson, and Jtr. H. G. Oclee for cut flowers; the Rev. A. L. Fellowes, Mr. 0, Corder, and Mr. John Green for pot plants ; and Messrs. J. E. T. Pollard, A. W. Preston, and W. Allan for fruit and vegetables. The receipts were equal to those of former years. SHEFFIELD AND THE BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. A MEETING, organised by the secretary of the Sheffield Floral and Horticultural Society, was held at Sheffield on Saturday evening, the ■29>:-h ult., when a deputation from the Yorkshire branch of the association attended from Leeds to explain the objects, Mr. Carver (hon. sec), Mr. Gant, and Mr. Donoghue being the speakers. The meet- ing, however, was an example of the apathy of the pro- fession in matters affecting their welfare, for although 200 circulars were sent out, only about twenty-five people attended the meeting. This is perhaps explained by the fact that an impression seems to prevail that it ia sought to form a trades union, and many are fearful of what action their employers may take if they knew they attended a meeting to promote it. Had they attended, however, and heard the objects expounded, these ideas would quickly have been dispelled. Undoubtedly the association is in the best interests of employers and gardeners alike, and wherever it has been submitted to employers they have expressed approval of it, and it has already borne good results. Mr. T. J. Nelson of Chester- field was voted to the chair, and after the deputation had spoken various questions were asked and answered, and a unanimous vote in support of the association was passed. Votes of thanks were also passed to Mr. Lewendon for organising the meeting, to the Leeds delegates, and to the chairman. Several names were handed in for membership. A pleasing feature of the meeting was an exhibit of beautiful Narcissus and Tulips by Messrs. R. H Bath, Limited, Wisbech, which were much admired. ,( Sume twenty varieties of each were staged, includin^^' Tulip Royal Sovereign, Village Boy, Sir Thomas Lipton, Joost van Vonde), &c., also the lovely Narcissus Mme. de Grinff, John Nelson, Una, J. B. M. Camm, Minnie, Edward VII., and other firsL-class blooms. 294 THE GARDEN. [May 13, 1905. KOYAL BOTANICAL AND HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF MANCHESTER. For some time it was thought that the above aociety had concluded its excellent work of the past seventy-five years. The gratifying announcement has been published that the gardens will undergo a complete renovation, redeco- ration, with new electric plant and fittings, and the splendid exhibitions so well knuwn in the north will be continued. We trust that such generous assistance may be fully appreciated by an increased list of subscribers and by throngs of visitors to the splendid exhibitions. The surroundings already show what can be done by tbe curatu.-, Mr. P. Weathers, and his excellent statf by the judicious blending of colour in the borders of the large annexe, where hundreds of Azalea mollis. Lilacs, Spiraas, &c., make an exhibition, by themselves. The outside department is also pleasing, the flower garden being furnished with large breadths of Primroses and Polyanthus effectively arranged. This, the first, show was non- competitive, and right well did the exhibitors accept the invitation. As usual, the Orchids were the prevailing feature, and showed to great advantage in the centre of the large exhibition house, for which the following awards were made : Gold Medals. Messrs. John Cowan and Co. had the leading collection of Orchids, pleasingly staged. Awards of merit were granted to Cypripeaium aureura virginale magniflcum, OdoutoglosBum concinnum, and O. excellens ; first-class certificates to Cattleya Schroder;e Mendelii and Odonto- glossum percultrum. Amongst the collection were many finely-marked Odontoglossum crispums, Liclio-Cattleya callistoglossa, Dendrobium virginale, the pretty Lielia Cowanii, &c. Mr. John Robson had an extensive exhibit, in which the Orchids included Dendrobium thyrsiflorum, Odontoglos- sums, Lselias, &c., and new Tree Carnations. SiLYER-GILT MEDALS. Messrs. James Cypher and Sons were worthily accorded this honour for a pleasing collection of Orchids, in which were excellent furms uf Cypripedium Slaudie, Brassavola digbyana, Cattleya lawrenceana, C. Skinnerii alha, C. intermedia alba, Oiontoglossum crispum, Dendrobium thyrsifiorum and good types of Anthuriums. Messrs. Dickson, Bi-own, and Tait staged a large and imposing collection of Tulips and St. Brigid Anemones. Of the former, Blaze, Queen of the Piuks, Pink Beauty, Grace Darling, Hector, (tc, were among the new varieties. The blooms throughout gave evidence of generous culture. Silver Medals. Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. had a small but praise- worthy collection. First-class certificates were awarded to LiTclio-Cattleya luminosa and L.-C. Lady Miller. Among others were good L.-C. hyeana, L.-C. Mercia, Cattleya Empress Frederick, &c Mr. J. E. Williamson showed Palms, Caladiums, Den- drotiiums, Oncidiums, Cypripediums, &c. Mr. W. Duckworth hud good Dendrobium thyrsiflorum, Oncidiums, Lx-lias, &c. Lord EUesmere showed a tastefully-arranged cone of Palms, Caladiums, Oncidiums, Odontoglossums &c. Awards of Merit. Mr. R. Vernon sent a new Viola White May, pure white, with yellow eye ; free bloomer. Mr. J. A. Bruce had herbaceous Calceolarias, Heliotrope, Cinerarias, Polyanthus, and Geraniums. The attendance was fair during the afternoon of the first day. REDHILL AND REIGATE GAKDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The closing meeting of the above aociety was held on Tuesday, the 25th ult., Mr. W. P. Bound in the chair. The following members were awarded the society's first- class certilicates, viz., Mr. F. C. Legge, Mr. Chambers, and Mr. Pennis. A large number of members were present on this occasion to hear Mr. Horace Wright lecture on "The Importance of E.xhibiting." Mr. Wright dealt with his subject in a most comprehensive manner, and those mem- bers who intend competing for prizes at the various horti- cultural shows could not fail to be well rewarded for their trouble in coming to hear such an instructive discourse. Mr. Wright advised all who intended exhibiting to become well acquainted with the rules laid down in the various schedules, as very often exhibitors were disqualihed owing to a want of knowledge of the conditions contained therein. Another important item was staging. This the lecturer dealt with at some length. A discussion followed, in which many meml)er8 took part. A vote of thanks was accorded Mr. Wright, which was proposed by Mr. W. P. Bound and seconded by Mr. Herbert. This closed the meeting. CROYDON HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Another of those interesting evenings when discussions on various topics relating to horticulture are set in motion, and amply criticised, occurred on Tuesday, the 'Jnd inst., at the society's rooms. The weather, no doubt, prevented a good many from being present ; nevertheless, tliose members who did attend, and amongst them a lady (this being the first lady to join since the society was founded), thoroughly enjoyed the two hours' talk on the subjects introduced. Quite a diversified list of questions were down for discussion, some relating to successful culture, others to failure experienced, and with the consensus of opinion given, the cause of failure and remedial measures to adopt, were expounded. SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION, The monthly meeting was held at 5, St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on the evening of the 2nd inst. There was a good attendance, presided over by Mr. J. W. M'Hattie, president. There were a number of good exhibits on view, among them being a splendid lot of Violas and Pansies from Messrs. Dobbie and Co , of Rothesay, including a number of the newest and finest varieties. The paper of the evening was by Mr. R. Fife, of the firm of Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Rothesay, his subject being, "A Trip to the Seed-growing Districts of Germany." Mr. Fife gave a very graphic and detailed account of the methods of the great seed-growing industry of Germany, Erfurt naturally coming in for a fuller notice than the other centres. The paper was listened to with close attention, and Mr. Fife was heartily thanked for it, and also for the fine exhibit of flowers sent by his firm. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Never was the Horticultural Hall so full of plants and flowers as on Tuesday last. The exhibition then held was the finest of the season. There was a large attendance during the afternoon. Orchid Committee. Present : Messrs. J. Gurney Fowler, James O'Brien, ds B. Crawshay, W. A. Bilney, James Douglas, Jeremiah Colman, Francis Wellesley, W. H. White, F. Sander, H. T. Pitt, H. G. Morris, F. W. Ashton, H. A. Tracy, G. F. Moore, R. G. Thwaites, H. Ballantine, T. W. Bond, J. Wilson Potter, W. H. Young, W. Boxall, William Bolton, Walter Cobb, H. Little, and Harry J. Veitch. Baron Schroder, The Dell, Egham (gardener, Mr. Ballan- tine), exhibited a very interesting group of Orchids, some good things being included. Cattleya Skinneri was repre- sented by a large plant bearing nine racemes of flowers, and of Cymbidium lowianum and Cypripedium lawrence- anum good plants were shown. Liclia cinnabarina, Masdevallia veitchiana grandiftora, and M. coccinea harry- ana made bright bits of colour. There were some good varieties of Odontoglossura crispum, e.fi., Lindeni, Princess Beatrice, and others unnamed. O. elt-gans, 0. Pescatorei, O. cirrhosum,0.horsmannianum, 0.(Krstedii, Cypripedium lawrenceanum hyeanum, C. x selligeium majus, C. cal- losum Sanderw, Bulbophyllum Dearei, and Bifrenaria Harrisonia; were other interesting Orchids shown in this group. Silver Flora medal. F- Menteith Ogilvie, Eiq., The Shrubbery, Oxford, exhi- bited a very bright group of Orchids, Oncidium concolor making a brilliant display among Odontoglossums, Cym- bidiums, Lycastes, and Miltonias. Cattleya intermedia alba and Cypripedium callosum Sandene were two good plants included. Silver-gilt Flora medal. There were some very choice Orchids in the small group shown by Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., Burford (Orchid grower, Mr. White), and several are described under new Orchids. Cattleya Mossia; goosensiana, L.-C. digbyano- Mossiie, L.-C. G. S. Ball, C. intermedia Aquini, Epi-Cattleya radiato-Dowringiana, Dendrobium crumenatura, wiih small white flowers (botanical certificate), and D. jerdonianum were some of the most interesting. Silver Flora medal. H. L. Goodson, Esq., S5, West Hill, Putney, showed a small group of Orchids that contained some good Cym- bidium lowianum, various Cattleyas and Odontoglossums, Oncidiums, Phaius, Angrrecum se«quipedale, Dendrobium devonianum, and others. Silver Flora medal. Mr. J. Cypher, Cheltenham, showed a very bright group of Orchids, Laslia purpurata figuring largely. Dendrobium thyrsirtorum was represented by a splendid plant, and other good things were L.-C. Hippolyta, Cattleya inter- media alba, C. lawrenceana, C. Mendelii, C. Schrodeia^ PhaI:cnopsls rimestadiana, as well as Odontoglossums and Cypripediums in variety. Silver-gilt Flora medal. Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Heatou, Bradford, Yorks, exhibited Lteliu-Cattleya G. S. Ball (an apricot-coloured hybrid between L. cinnabarina and C. Schroderre), L.-C. Lucia, L.-C. Mercia, L.-C. Myra, Cypripedium Editha; (bellatulura x chamberlainianum), Miltonia blueana grandiflora, and other choice Orchids, which combined to make an attractive group. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Enfield, had some excellent Orchids in their small group. PhaliL'tiopsis rimestadiana, Cattleya intermedia cfcrulea, Trichopilia suavis alba, C. intermedia alba, Bulbophyllum Lobbi, and Chysis brac- tescens were some of the good things shown. Silver Bank- sian medal. C. J. Lucas, Esq., Warnham Court Gardens, Horsham (gardener, Mr. Duncan), showed a small group of Odonto- glossums, which included very good plants of 0. cirrhosum, andersnnianum, polyxantha, Adriaua;, Hallii, and others. Silver Banksian medal. A plant of Lfolio-Cattleya choletiana (Cattleya Mossias X Laslia superbiens), bearing two splendid racemes, was shown by Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans. De Barri Crawshay, Esq., sent several of his hybrid Odontoglossums. Messrs. Cowan and Co., Gateacre, Liver- pool, sent a good plant of Cypiipedium aureum virginale; and W. C. Walker, E^fq., Winchmore Hill, showed Odonto- glossum Adrians var. Cypripedium wellesleyanum and C. lawrenceanum hack- bridgense were shown by F. Wellesley, Esq., Woking. H. Whately, E«|., Kenil worth, exhibited some very pretty varieties of Odontoglossum crispum, but none of them obtained an award of merit. M. Ch. ^"uylsteke, Ghent, also exhibited some very good Odontoglossum hybrids. New Orchids. Odontofjlossum crispum Louts L. Sander.— X amall, perfectly shaped flower with rounded sepals and petals, heavily and evenly blotched with li«ht red upon a white ground, which is tinged with palest purple in placet. Th» lip is broad at the top, tapering considerably to the base ; it also is blotched with light red. From J, Leeman, Esq., Heaton, Mersey. First-class certificate. Ci/mbidiuin r/iodochilum.—Thia distinct and rare Cym- bidium flowered for the first time in this country at Kew some three years ago. It has pale green sepals, which recurve so much as to be roughly parallel with the stem. The petals are rather deeper green, and marked fairly heavily with black spots and dots. The chief beauty of the flower lies in the lip, for it is red except for a pale yellow channel between the lobes ; this yellow is also dotted with black. Shown by J. Bradshaw, Esq., The Grange, Southgate (gardener, Mr. Whitelegge). First- class certificate. Epi-Laiia Sylvia.— A flower with orange red sepals and petals, and broad, almost fiat lip, which is rose red at the edges, fading almost to white at the centre. The flowera are borne on a loose, slightly drooping raceme. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., Burford (Orchid grower, Mr. W. H. White). Award of merit. La'Uo- Cattleya 0. S. Ball magnifica. — This Is a very handsome Orchid, the flower being of a uniform rich apricot colour. The lip is frilled, and just at the end is a deeper shade than the rest of the flower. This Is a most showy Orchid. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart. Award of merit. Lalio-Cattleya Mrs. J. Leeman. — C. aurea and L. digbyana were the parents of this hybrid, which has the characteristic large, heavily fringed lip. The colour of the latter is yellow, marked with brown in the centre, and there is a broad margin of pink. Sepals and petals are primrose colour, tinged with pink. The whole colouring is soft and very pleasing. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart. Award of merit. Bulbophyllum Rcinicardtii.—X curious flower. The sepals are large, acuminate, dull greenish yellow, marked with red dots ; the petals are quite small, and lined with red. The lip is crimson, and adds greatly to the effect of the flower. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart. Award of merit. Odontoylossum crispum Titus. — A large, well-formed flower. The sepals and petals are broad and acuminate^ with indented edges. They are heavily blotched with light red upon a pure white ground. The lip is long and broad at the top, marked similarly to the petals and sepals. From J. Leeman, Esq., Heaton, Mersey. Award of merit. OdoiHoglossum crittpiuti (yellow) Wcstbank Nou^e variety. — A beautiful fiosver of deep primrose colouring throughout sepals, petals, and lip. The lip is lightly spotted with light red, and there are similar spots on the top of the white column. From J. Leeman, Esq., Westbank House, Heaton, Mersey. Award of merit. A botanical certificate was given to Odontoglossum lindleyanum aureum, from de B. Crawshay, E-a.. ^id to Dendrobium crumenatum, from Sir Trevor Lawitnce, Bart. Narcissus Committee. Present : Mr. H. B. May (chairman). Miss E. WiUmott^ the Hon. John Boscawen, the Revs. G. H. Engleheart and S. Eugene B.iurtie, and Messrs. J. T. Bennett-Poe, W. Poupart, J. D. Pearson, E. A. Bowles, G. Reuthe, James. Walker, Robert Sydenham, R. W. Wallace, Walter T. >A'are, A. Kingsmill, and Charles H. Curtis. Messrs. liarr and Sous, King Street, Covent Garden, W.C, made a brilliant display with cottage and May- fiowernig Darwin Tulips in many richly-coloured varieties. Amoug the cottage Tulips were La Merveille, rich orange scarlet ; T. mauriana, bright red ; Rainbow, rose and purple ; Dainty Maid, marked with purple on a cream ground; very good were Vitellina, primrose; Mrs. Moon and retroflexa, yellow ; and the curious viridiflora priccox. The Darwins comprised White Queen, Clara Butt, rich pink ; Pygmalion, purple ; Mrs. Farncomlie Saunders, red ; Queen of lirillianls, bright red ; Salmon King, salmon red ; Zulu, black purple ; and other handsome sorts. Parrot Tulips- also added further rich colouring to this efl'ective group. Silver Flora medal. The group of Tulips from Messrs. R. Wallace and Co.^ Kihifleld Gardens, Colchester, contained many handsome flowers of the various sections. Among the Darwins were some very fine blooms, particularly of St. Bruno, marone ; Mrs. Krelage, silvery rose marked with deeper rose ; Margaret, blush ; Clara Butt, rich pink ; Antony Roozen, blush with rose markings ; Europe, red ; Glow, rich deep red ; The Fawn, buff. Tulip armena, bright red with black centre ; T. fulgens, large rich red with yellow centre ; T. billetiana, yellow suffused with red; T. vitellina, deep primrose ; T. gesneriana, clear red ; and T. ostrowskyana, bright orange red, were splendid among the species. Silver-gilt Banksian medal. The Tulips from Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbeoh, made a very attractive display, the soft shades of the Darwin varieties associating pleasingly with the brighter colours of the Parrot varieties and the species. Of the latter^ T. Gieigi, with its rich orange red flowers, was very telling i T. elepans, T. elegans alba, T. fulgens, bright red, T. retroflexa, bright yellow, were other good ones. Among- the Darwins Mme. Krelage, silvery rose. Lord Wellington^, purple, Van Poortoleit, salmon rose, Minister Roil, very dark red, Maiden's Blush, White Queen, and La Tulipe Nnire were very handsome. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Rothesay, exhibited a smalb collection of very good Tulips, The flowers were unusually large and made a bright display. Prince of Austiia, orange- red, Couleur Cardinal, Murlllo, silvery pink, Thomaa. Moore, yellow and bufi", alba regalis, white, and some pretty cottage sorts were among them. The Tulips, Narcissi, and Anemones set up by Messrs. Hogg and Robertson, Rush, County Dublin, made an excel- lent show. lu the centre was a small group of cboic& GARDEN -^^=^\ S»^ No. 1748.— Vol. LXVII. iMay 20. 1905. FRUIT PROSPECTS THE WEST. IN FROM the time that the earliest of the Plums open till the last of the Apple flowers fall there are many charming pictures to be seen in the Western Counties, a land of orchards, that might, if conditions were different, contribute more than it does at present towards the fruit supply of this country. A few weeks ago we spent a day in the famous Evesham district, which is a land of ' market gardens of Pershore and other Plums, ] and SI spot which Nature has favoured with a fertile soil and an ideal situation. The Plums were in full blossom. In every direction the slopes were masses of pearly whiteness, tinged only with the bright green of the bursting growth. There seemed to be flowers everywhere, not only on the trees overhead, but on the ground beneath, because the Evesham market gardener by no means confines himself to Spring Onions, Cabbages, Radishes, and Lettuces, he grows flowers as well, and many acres of land under the fruit trees are planted with Wallflowers, Dafi'odils, and Narcissi. To look into the florists' shops anywhere and everywhere in the spring of the year one might wonder where the flowers all came from, but it is easy to understand after a walk through the Evesham plantations. The Plum blossom has experienced rough weather this year, and it is difficult to say yet what the crop will be like. Of bloom there was an abundance, but it was exposed to sharp frosts at night, snowstorms occa- sionally, and biting north-easterly winds. If one quarter of the bloom comes to maturity there will be a good crop, for the Evesham growers do not sigh for trees with heavy burdens of fruit. Last year the heavy crop followed a famine, and the jam supply of the country had run low, but a second glut of Plums would mean a good deal of wasted fruit and ruinous prices. Years ago the Pershore, or Egg Plum, was the beginning and end of the stone-fruit round Evesham, but growers have learnt to realise that there are other Plums worth growing in the district, and Early Prolific is one that is largely relied on for the early picking. Others of Rivers' introduction are also grown, including Monarch and The Czar, but what is wanted now is a Plum as early as the Prolific and as big as a Victoria. What money the raiser of such a Plum would make if he could afford to raise a big enough stock before selling. To speak of Cherries, thoughts naturally revert to Kent, which holds the monopoly in the culture of this luscious fruit ; but here and there in the Western Counties are restricted districts where Cherries do well, and are somewhat extensively grown. A few weeks ago we passed through a west country Cherry district when the trees were in full bloom. Prospects then were fair, and if winds and frost have not damaged them there should be a good return. In point of size the Cherry trees in these parts do not compare with the huge specimens to be seen in the Sittingbourne district in Kent, but they possess vigour enough to prove that the soil suits them, and before going in largely for fruit culture it is wise to let Nature indicate the suitability of the district for the purpose in view. There is no need to ask any questions about the suitability of the Western Counties for Pears, because, attached to the rural farms and other homesteads, are huge specimens of forest tree dimensions. These Pears, mostly of local origin, play a very small part in the supply of fruit for eating, because the edible qualities of the majority of them are hardly worth considering. They were planted with a purpose, namely, to supply fruit for Perry, and this they continue to do. Whether they really pay is another matter. They are 'established institutions, and hundreds of the trees never cost a cent in the way of cultivation, while the land beneath is used for grazing. The Perry may be used for home consumption, and some of it is sold, so the big Pear trees may be said to return a profit. Now and then one comes across a few trees of good dessert varieties in an old orchard, and the conclusion one comes to is that the originator of that orchard liked a good Pear to eat as well as Perry to drink, and the fruit from the trees now finds its way to market. One observes, however, among the recently established orchards, that the varieties planted are not all Perry Pears, but good dessert sorts which will find a sale in the markets of the future. And why not % There is land enough to grow 1 Pears for Perry-making and Pears to eat, and it seems a pity that districts which are- naturally adapted for this fruit should do so- little in supplying the wants of the people with a wholesome and palatable article of food. So far as bloom is concerned there is- nothing wanting this season, but it is never safe to prophecy much about the Pear crop until the fruits are developing. Apple trees now are sheets of pink and white. Attached to almost every farm homestead in the West is an orchard contain- ing Apple trees which were planted long before the Apple trade was anything like it is now. They were planted to produce fruit for the making of the popular West Country beverage. Cider. In some of the orchards one finds a strange mixture of varieties, mostly of local origin and of no market value except for Cider-making, with just a sprinkling of Blenheims, Wellingtons, and a few other old but good culinary and dessert varieties. Little can be said for the old West Country orchards, many of which are mere relics of something that has been ; but they serve a purpose and cost very little. Of late years young orchards have been planted with good trees of the recognised best varieties, and as these come to maturity and the old trees die out the West of England will produce a greater quantity of better-class fruit than it does at present. It does not follow that this need be done at the expense of the Cider industry. There is no reason why this should not develop also, as there appears to be a growing taste for the beverage outside Cider counties proper, but if Cider-making is to flourish palatable liquor must be made. In short. Cider-makers must listen to the voice of science in the actual process of manu- facture, and varieties of Apples that will make good Cider must be grown expressly for the purpose. THE ANNALS OF THE LITTLE RED HOUSE.— II. I BELIEVE it to be a golden rule if you enter into the possession of a new place in the spring not to cut down any old fruit trees, however miserable they may look, until you have seen what they will produce in the autumn. Many a good fruit tree has been thus sacri- ficed, which, if it had been spared until fruiting time, would have been standing now. In the same way it is wiser not to interfere 206 THE GARDEN [May 20, 1905. much with the ttower-beds and borders until summer is over ; you will then have ascer- tained what to keep and what to discard. We determined to play the waiting game, and results have shown we did wisely. There was plenty of work waiting to be done — in fact, though our energy was practi- cally inexhaustible, we had moments of de.^pondency when we saw the task we had set ourselves. And, of course, there was the house itself to be taken in hand. The work indoors, however, was left to wet days, which were plentiful in April, and it is not my intention to enter into any details of how we made our house beautiful, as it would be out of place in a paper devoted to gardening. The first thing we did, of course, was to stock the kitchen garden, for I know that beauty has to give way to use, and though I was burning to get to my flower border.-j, I first saw the summer crops got in. The kitchen garden occupied a space of about 1 acre, and it was divided into four quarters : one we mentally placed on one side for the Gooseberry and Currant trees, an eighth was already occupied by Strawberries, and I marked out another portion for a seed garden and potting shed, which the master promised to build for me. Here also the Carnation bed was to be made, and this little plot was to be separated from the rest of the kitchen garden by a Lavender hedge. I found a quantity of young Lavender bushes dotted about in the borders ; these I moved carefully and put in their new quarters at once. Having finished all these necessary things, it was the beginning of ilay before I could set to work at the flower borders. Luckily it was a late spring, which made my task more possible. There was, however, no time except just to try and make the herbaceous borders presentable for the coming summer ; all re-making and re- trenching which I could see was necessary would have to be left until the following autumn. I had immediately on taking possession of the place begged from gardening friends all they could spare from the surplus stock of hardy plants, and^ hampers of delightful contributions had arrived. Every- thing was gratefully accepted, for with 300 yards or 400 yards of wide borders to fill, we were not in a position to be hypercritical. Of course anything like a colour scheme was impossible. Relative heights were considered, and when the borders were planted and raked, I sowed a collection of hardy annuals, with due regard to colour, filling in bare spaces with Pansies ; and later again 1 bought at a neighbouring market some boxes of ready-grown, half-hardy things, and these, ■with some Geraniums taken at a valuation with garden stock, were put out later. Sweet Peas, too, I sowed as a hedge in a waste piece of land which had been stolen from the orchard, which we allotted at once for our future croquet ground. In spite of many little failures, the result was excellent, and in .J uly the desert bloomed like a Rose. The Carnation bed, too, was a success. I followed Mr. Martin Smith's directions accurately, double trenching the bed for which I selected a spot north and south. Near the bottom of the trench we placed about 4 inches of rich cow manure, but we were careful to keep it G inches at least from the roots of the plants. We ■ mixed well into the soil some sand and a little soot, and then the bed was well trodden down until it would bear the weight of a man without making an impression. While making the bed a sharp watch was kept for wireworms, with which, however, we are not greatly plagued. About fifty plants of well-tried sorts of Carnations and Picotees were planted, and for cutting, a stock of Grenadin and Raby Castle and Old Clove were given a place of their own apart from the choicest sorts. Augusta de L.-^-Oy Lacy. (To be continued.) NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. May '2o. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Tulip Show). May 30. — Royal Horticultural Society's Temple Show (three days) ; Bath and West of England Show (five days). June 1. — Rhododendron Exhibition, Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, throughout the month. A coloured pla.te of some of the best varieties of Tree Carnations will be given with The Garden next week. Kew Guild dinner.— We are requested to remind our readers who are Old Kewites that the annual dinner will take place at the Holborn Restaurant on the 29th inst. at 7.30 p.m., and that the secretary. Mr. Winn, would be glad to hear before the 22Qd from all who intend to be present. Mr. James Whitton. — The many friends of Mr. .James Whitton, the able superin- tendent of the Glasgow Parks and Botanic Gardens, will be pleased to learn that at the last meeting of the Town Council he was granted an increase of £50 to his salary. This brings it up to .£500, with an official residence — not too much for an appointment carrying with it so much responsibility, and so well filled by Mr. Whitton, whose great ability is universall}' recog- nised by all visitors to the Glasgow parks. Proposed testimonial to Mr. Ricliard Dean. — It has been suggested that after such a serious and prolonged illness as our old esteemed friend and secretary, Mr. R. Uean, has passed through, and is still suffering from, it would be a proper time for the National Chr3'san- themum Society to initiate and organise a fitting testimonial, andinvite the co-operation of all lovers of horticulture, in showing their sympathy prac- tically, as a recognition of long and indefatigable services rendered to the society (ever since the lamented death of Mr. W. Holmes, the first secretary to the society), and to the horticul- tural world in general. Few men, if anj', have contributed more from their pen to up-to-date gardening, thereby distributing knowledge broad- cast, acquired by practical, eventful, and long experience. It is thought the form which the testimonial shall take, as being most practicable and useful, should be a purse of money, without any part of it being spent on an illuminated address, or anything of the kind ; and it is hoped that all subscribers will send in their donations early, so that arrangements may be made to present the testimonial to Mr. Dean at Can's Restaurant, 204, Strand, on July 12 (the second day of the Royal Horticultural Society's show at Chelsea). — J. H. Witty, Hon. Secretary and 2'riaKurer to the Testimonial Fund. Henry Seton Merriman. — It is evident that the popularity of Henry Seton Merriman did not die with him. His great story, "The Sowers," has emerged triumphantly from the test of the sixpenny reprint, in which form it seems destined to establish a record for sales. Messrs. Newnes, by arrangement with Messrs. Smith, Elder and Co., are about to issue the whole of Merrimau's novels in their sixpenny series, and have commissioned the well-known artist, Mr. A. S. Hartriok, to illustrate all the stories. "In Kedai's Tents" is almost ready, and the other novels will follow at monthly intervals. Edinburgh International Exhi- bition.— At iheir meeting on the 2Qd inst. the Edinburgh Town Council adopted the recom- mendation of the Parks Committee that authority be given for closing the Waverley Market Garden to the public on September 13, 14, and 15, so that it might be avadable for the International Exhibition of the Pvoyal Caledonian Horticultural Society. Opposition was offered on the ground that it was proposed to close a public garden, and that this was illegal, but it was pointed out by the Town Clerk that the bye-laws provided for such being done. The recommendation was adopted by no fewer than thirty-eight to two. Notes from a Yorkshire garden. Since writing my last notes we have had a great deal of cold east wind. On the 6th ult. 3 inches or 4 inches of snow fell, followed by 13° of frost the next night, and slighter frosts on several subsequent occasions. As Mr. Jerome recently said. It was all very well for Browning in sunny Italy to sing, "Oh! to be in England when April's there." The lute was falsely tuned for such an April as we have had in 1905. Saxifrages are flowering abundantly this year. Wallacei, with its fine large, white flowers, is out before Apiculata is well over, and Hypnoides, atro-purpurea, Rhei, and Guildford Seedling are covered with bloom. The little golden Cymbalaria sowed itself as usual last autumn, and scores of little seedlings are up. This little member of the Saxifrage family is well worth a place in thercckery or where it wdl have a chance to get light and air. The Rockfods come later, and are also giving promise of abundant flowering, and what with Anemone apennina, Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Poet's Narcissus, the garden is full of flowers. Around seven pieces of sliced Carrot I found fifteen wireworms one day recently, and but for the tasty vegetable I am afraid my Carnations would have looked sickly before now. How fine a piece of colour do the young Pa^ony shoots make amongst the green leaves and golden flowers of Daffodils. Last autumn I transplanted a bed of Pteonies and put them towards the front of a shrubbery, with Daffodils about them. — W. J. Beechwood. Sale of Orchids from the collec- tion of Mr. R. Briggs Bury, Bank: House. Ace ring ton. —At Messrs. Protheroe and Morris's sale on the 2nd inst. of the Ladias, Cattleyas, hybrids, and a few dupli- cates of Odontoglossums and Cypripediums, the 350 lots realised over ,£3,300. The principal prices were : Odontoglossum crispum Peetersii, KiO guineas ; O. c. Mnie. F. Peeters, 200 guineas ; 0. c. (i>ueen Margherita, 120 guineas ; 0. c. Mrs. F. Sander, 55 guineas, Cypripedium lawrence- anum hyeanum, 20 guineas ; C. Mandi:v, 30 guineas ; C. insigne berryanum, 2S guineas ; L:clia grandis tenebrosa Walton Grange variety, 70 guineas ; Cattleya labiata alba Bank House variety, 75 guineas ; C. Mendelii Quorn House variety, 90 guineas ; C. Countess of Derby, 1.50 guineas ; C. hardyana alba, 55 guineas ; C. SchroderiE alba Bank House variet)^ 00 guineas ; and C. gigas Our Princess, 42 guineas. The amateurs and Orchid specialists from the north were well represented. The principal prices realised on the second day were as follows : Odontoglossum Empress Frederick, 58 guineas ; 0. crispum Mme. Valcke, 140 guineas ; 0. c. Duchess of Connaught, 150guinea6 ; 0. c. Peetersii, 150 guineas; Cattleya labiata gilmoureana, 75 guineas ; C. hardyana alba, 50 guineas ; C. Countess of Derby, 140 guineas; C. Mendelii alba Mrs. A. Y. Lees, 70 guineas; C. Triana' Iniperator, 45 guineas ; L;elia grandis tenebrosa WaltonGrange var. , 50 guineas; and Cypripedium insigne berryanum, 25 guineas. The sixty-eight lots realised £0,093. May 20, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 297 Exhibiting^ Tufted Pansies.— There again appears to be a tendency to give encourage- ment to the setting up of Tufted Pansies in sprays, as was the practice a few years ago. Orowers and others used to complain of the mis- leading character of these displays, as there was absolutely nothing to show what the habit of the different varieties really was. (i>uite recently we have seen two or three good exhibits in which the Tufted Pansies were well represented in sprays. The blooms were large, and on each occasion their colours and markings have been pleasingly diverse. Some of the varieties are well known as suitable for beds and borders owing to their tufted habit, others are passable, but several of the varieties having the largest flowers are anything but tufted in growth. We have taken the trouble and expense of acquiring a collection of the better so-callod exhibition Violas to test their merits in the garden, and have been much disappointed. Would-be growers must discriminate when placing their orders, so that those of tufted and free flowering habit be procured. — C. A. H. Piems (Andromeda) japoniea.— This beautiful Ericaceous shrub has been par- ticularly fine this year in many places, owing in a great measure to the almost total absence of frost during the time the flowers were developing. When in good condition it is an extremely hand- some evergreen, that passes through at least two distinct phases of beauty during the year ; first, in the spring when the bushes are literally veiled with long pendulous racemes of white wax-like urn-shaped blossoms; and, secondly, when the new growth is pushed out later on, as the young leaves and the bark of the fresh shoots are heavily suffused with bright crimson. A notable feature of this Pieris is that the flower-buds are formed in the autumn, and are very conspicuous by their ruddy tinge throughout the winter. Should the weather at that period be severe, they are from their unprotected state often injured, but, of course, a greater degree of frost is then needed to do the damage than is the case later on, just as the earliest blossoms are expanding. In this susceptibility to frost it is altogether more tender than its North American relative, Pieris (Andromeda) floribunda, whose blossoms are rarely checked in this way. Both may be readily flowered under glass in the spring, that is if they are not subjected to hard forcing, and owing to the roots forming a dense mass of fibres they can be lifted and potted with scarcely any check. We are, in this country, accustomed to look upon Pieris japoniea as only a shrub, but Professor Sargent in his " Forest Flora of Japan " speaks of specimens at least 30 feet in height, with stout well-formed trunks. — T. Bpowaliia speciosa majop.— Notes have from time to time appeared in The Garden concerning the beauty of this plant and its per- sistent flowering qualities, but, though fairly well known, its merits in this last named respect are, I think, not yet fully recognised, In proof of its freedom of flowering, I may mention that with only half-a-dozen plants in a warm greenhouse we have not been absolutely without blossoms for the last twelve months. This Browallia is a member of the Solanum family, and a native of Colombia ; indeed, all the species occur in the Andean region of South America. Its culture is not at all diiBcult, as if stopped freely during its earlier stages it forms naturally a bushy plant of a half-shrubby character. The flowers, suggesting somewhat in shape the new Nicotiana Sinder», have a tube about an inch long with a spreading mouth divided into five segments. The colour is a rich violet-blue with a white throat, that is, when first expanded as they become paler with age, and singularly enough they also increase in size. The cultural requirements of this Browallia are not at all exacting, for if given much the same treatment as a Heliotrope it will do well, and needs only ordinary potting compost. One species, B. elata, known as the Forget-me-not of the Andes, was introduced in 1708, but the other has not been grown for very many years. — H. P. Tlie Croweas. — The illustration on page '2'i~> of the pretty little pink-flowered Crowea angustifolia serves not only to call attention to its intrinsic beauty, and thus rescue an almost forgotten plant from oblivion, but it also tends to dispel an erroneous, yet at the same time widespread idea, that certificates and awards of merit are, by the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, given only to new or comparatively new plants, as this Crowea lately received the last-named honour. I cannot find the actual date of its introduction, but it was certainly grown here in our forefather's time, when collections of hard-wooded plants were popular. It is a native of Western Australia, whereas a second species, C. saligna, was intro- duced from New South Wales in 1790. This last-named has been more generally met with in cultivation than the other, but usually under the name of C. latifolia, the specific title of saligna being, however, according to the " Kew Hand List," the correct one. Perhaps, in time, the trend of fashion may change, and we may then see not only Croweas, but many other delightful plants once more in general cultivation. — T. THE COW^SLIP BALL. Low in tlie meadows the Cowslips hide, And those that would find them seek far and wide. Maiden I methinlis you have gathered them all To weave in that yellow Cowslip ball. Then throw, then throw, In varied measure, Now high, now low, Your golden treasure ! I watched you, I saw you so deftly bind, And pitied the flowers you left behind, As slowly through soft, deep meadow grass Screwing and weaving I saw you pass. Then throw, then throw, In varied measure, Now high, now low, Your golden treasure I So sweet, so fair, may your life-path be As this you are treading away from me ; As pure, little maid, life's blossoms all, As those that you bind in your Cowslip ball. Then throw, then throw, In varied measure, Now high, now low, Your golden treasure ! E. THOMPSON. Pinks, — Judging from the vigorous growth my own Pinks in the border are making, there should be a good head of bloom on the plants during this month. I grow but two of the florists' laced varieties, viz., John Ball and Mrs. Darke, because they have a compact habit of growth and throw up good flower-stems ; but it is necessary, owing to the weight of the blossoms, to support the stems with neat stakes. Anyone having a desire to grow a small but interesting collection of laced Pinks might add to the two foregoing varieties Harry Hooper, Modesty, Old Chelsea (a pleasing free-flowering variety which Mr. Douglas is in the habit of bringing up to the May meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society in such good condition), and The Rector. The perfection of this type of Pink is the regularity and density of the lacing, either white or red, round the edge of a well-expanded flower. Bat to have this desirable character some cultivation is necessary. There should be strong plants, layers laid down as early as possible, then a bed of good sandy loam enriched with well decomposed manure, and deeply stirred. The bed should be raised fully 6 inches above the ground level so as to admit of some settling down, and after remaining two or three days it can be planted, placing the plants far enough apart to allow of free develop- ment, and to enable the cultivator to get among them when necessary, pressing the soil firmly about them, but leaving in the form of a slight mound close around the plants. If any should have put forth a straggling shoot or two from the base, they may be secured in position by means of pegs. The advantage of a raised bed is that when the rain showers of autumn and winter fall the plants do not become water-logged at the roots. The bed should be kept clear of any weeds, and the surface be occasionally stirred when sufficiently dry. A mulch of short manure and leaves placed among the plants at the beginning of December will be found of great advantage during winter and early spring as a protection against hard frost and cold winds. The border varieties well repay liberal treatment. They make the best display when planted in groups of three and four plants, and though the Pink will go on flowering for several years, the plants become overgrown, and so it is well to replant young stock at intervals of three or four years. Top-dressings in early autumn, and again in spring, are very beneficial, and assist the pro- duction of fine full bossoms. The following form a very interesting collection : The white varieties are Albino, Her Majesty, Mrs. Lakin, and Mr. Douglas's fine new variety Snowdrift, which in size and finish approaches a white Clove Carna- tion. Other desirable varieties are Anna Boleyn, pale rose with darker centre, an old but large- flowering variety ; Early Rose or Clove Pink, a large, rose-coloured variety of strong growth ; Homer, deep rose with dark centre ; Lizzie Duval, silvery rose ; Paddington, dark rose with maroon centre ; and Samuel Barlow, white with claret centre, compact grower and very free. Some of the large-flowered pod-bursters of recent introduction, with their strong, straggling habits of growth are, in my opinion, not superior to the sorts named above. Most of those are pod- bursters, which appears to be a defect in the constitution of the Pink, though Mrs. Lakin and one or two other varieties might be named which are comparatively free from this tendency. — R. D. Effective grouping-,— At Kew this year one of the most effective beds of shrubs has been Magnolia stellata, and the beauty of the bed has been added to by a groundwork of Muscari conicum, the intense blue of the latter being very effective beneath the glistening white of the Magnolia. For planting in a bed on the outskirts of a lawn Magnolia stellata is one of the best possible shrubs, being neat in habi t and blossoming freely annually. It is an easier plant to move than most of the Magnolias, and seems to be less sensitive to root injury than others. It is some- what difficult to obtain in quantity unless it is imported from Japan. Small plants can be obtained from Japanese nurserymen at a reason- able price, and form in two years from the time of introduction very serviceable specimens, while in six or eight years from the time they are obtained plants 4 feet to 5 feet high and 3 feet to ■i feet through may be had. The worst point about it is the fact that the flowers are sometimes injured by frost, and it is advisable in exposed situations to cover a bed or single specimen with tiffany while in flower. Grown in nursery quarters M. stellata is an excellent subject to lift and pot or tub up in autumn, when by forcing in a gentle heat it can be brought into flower in February or March to use for the greenhouse. — W. Dallimore. Proposed railway for Clydes- dale fruit trade, — There is at present under consideration by the directors of the Cale- donian Railway Company a scheme for the con- struction of a new light railway, which would have an important and beneficial effect upon the fruit-growing industries in Clydesdale. Surveys have been taken for a light railway which would run from Carluke to Crossford, the latter being an important fruit-growing centre. Great interest is being taken in the locality in the scheme, which receives general support from fruit-growers, agriculturists, and others in the district. 298 THE GARDEN. [May 20, 1905, BerberiS DaPWinii.— At Kew this is i 12 inches deep Bhould be dug out, taking away used with considerable effect in various parts of ' most of the turf and adding some decayed the gardens, and whether as single specimens, groups in shrubberies, or beds, it is equally desirable. Of the many species of Berberis it is one of, if not the most, showy, and it is one worthy of cultivation on a large scale, for in addition to being very free-flowering it is also a manure. It is generally necessary to mark with a small stick where these are to be dug. The t holes may contain from one to four plants, one j or two small pieces of turf may be replaced in each to break up their regularity. Annual treatment will consist in pulling oif some of the with which a little artificial manure has been mixed. — J. Comeee, Nymans, Sussex. Dundee Hortieultupal Associa- tion.—One of the most successful meetings of the Dundee Horticultural Association for the session of 1904-5 was held in the Technical good evergreen. As a rule it is from G feet to encroaching turf and replacing it with leaf-mould 8 feet high, and in the form of a bush, but one plant at Kew growing in a shrubbery has attained a height of 18 feet, with a stem 3 inches to 4 inches in diameter. Being a native of Chili one would expect it to be somewhat tender. This, however, is not the case, as it stands ordinary winters without injury. The leaves are small, barely half an inch long, thick and ; Institute, Dundee, on the evening of the '2Qd inst. leathery, and have from three to five spines on the margins. The flowers are in short, dense racemes, borne from axillary buds. In colour they vary to some extent, those of some forms being deep orange, others orange scarlet, while others again are yellow. To obtain a stock of any of these forms cuttings must be rooted, for none come true from seeds, except, of course, the type, which is the orange-coloured one. Grown from seeds it takes about four years to obtain good plants to put out. — W. Dallimore. Rainfall.— The rainfall sent by your correspondent A. J. Keen, Bucklands, Brecon, is a heavy one for March. Here our rainfall in the same month was 2 92, or two- thirds less than Mr. Keen's record. Rain fell on twenty-two days, the maximum on the 10th, when 0-36 fell.— H. Wilson, jdn., Coh Orion Halt, Ashby-de-la-Zottch. Cowslips in the wild g'aPden. — Cowslips do not grow luxuriantly in grass ; however thickly they spangle the turf of a meadow they are sure to be found at their best near the hedges, bushes, or in some corner. In similar places in the wild garden, the cultivated forms grow splen- didly, and even in open grassy spots, though the flower-stalks are shorter and the foliage paler, they are very attractive. Strains of Cowslips vary considerably ; we prefer those with downy leaf, inflated calyx, bell-shaped flower, and delicious perfume of the wild variety. Messrs. Barr and Sons have recently sent out a giant scarlet strain, which pro- duces flowers of splendid colour — bright warm orange-brown, per- haps the nearest approach to scarlet yet seen in this flower. Though many well-shaped flowers are to be found among them, the majority are too flat and salver- shaped. Other strains have flowers varying from pale yellow to the richest orange, and what is called by courtesy crimson. It is not difficult to raise a numerous stock. The seed may be sown in boxes in February and placed in a cold frame or gentle heat. It may also be sown on a prepared bed behind a north wall during early May. When the seedlings are large enough they can be transplanted into lines 8 inches apart and 4 inches between the plants. In September they will be ready for planting into their permanent positions. Plant in masses of irregular outline, thickest towards the centre, gradually thinning out, until at the salient points small groups and single plants stand out bv themselves. Holes 10 inches wide and A NEW HEATH (ERICA HYBRIDA VEITCUH). (Shown by Messrs. R. Vcitck and Sons of Exeter, at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on March lU last, and given an award of merit. There was a large attendance, presided over by Mr. James Cairns, Bilruddery Gardens, and a number of fine specimens of spring-flowering bulbs graced the room and served to illustrate the paper. The address was given by Mr. John Maehar, Fotheringham House Gardens, and the subject was the seasonable one of " Spring- flowering Bulbs." Mr. Maehar entered fully into his subject, and detailed the cultivation of the favourite spring-flowering bulbs, both in the open and under glass, mentioning also the most suitable varieties for the purpose. An excellent discussion followed, and Mr. Maehar was warmly thanked for his valuable address. TREES AND SHRUBS. A NEW HEATH (ERICA HYBRIDA VEITCHII.) ON two occasions this spring Mr* Veitch of Exeter, who is dis- tributing this Heath, ha exhibited it at the Horticultural Hall of the Royal Horticultural Society. On the first occasion it was not fully in bloom, but on the later date, March 14, it was in iirst-rate form, and an award of merit was obtained for it. Seen alone when out of flower it might readily be mistaken for a dwarf-growing E. lusitanica, but when seen side by side with its parents, E. lusitanica and E. arborea, it is quite distinct. At Kew it is considered to be an improve- ment on both parents, being dwarfer and more compact in habit, blossoming more freely, and having, if anything, whiter flowers. The flowering period is a lengthy one, for while many blooms open early in March, it is at its best during the month of April, and in mid-May it is still in flower. The flowers partake of the characters of both parents. The corolla is about the same length, but rather wider than that of E. lusitanica, and, as in that plant, the flowers are frag- rant. In E. lusitanica, the anthers are dark red or reddish brown, while in E. arborea they are bright pink, but in the hybrid the colour is interme- diate. The stigma of E. lusi- tanica, again, is red, and very little wider than the style, while that of E. arborea is white and flattened out, that of the hybrid being pink in colour, and almost as wide as that of E. arborea. Another instance in which characters from both parents are seen is the manner in which the flowers are grouped together, E. arborea bearing larger clusters than E. lusitanica, E. Veitchii being between the two. The leaves more closely resemble those of E. lusitanica. At Kew it has been grown for several years, the largest plant being now from 2 feet to 2i feet high and the same through. Each year it blossoms profusely, and from its behaviour it may certainly be classed as one of the best of the hardy Heaths. W. Dallimore. RHODODENDRON PINK PEARL. I HAVE often heard that this beautiful Rhododen- dron is not hardy, but 1 can assure anyone that wants to plant Rhododendrons that such is not the case. Seven years ago we purchased plants from Messrs. John Waterer, Limited, Bagshoi Nurseries, the introducers of this splendid hardy hvbrid, and planted it in various exposed posi- tions as single specimens. Our plant has never failed to bloom freely. The habit is excellent, and the growth is good. We have never known May 20, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 299 a single leaf injured with frost or north or east winds. We have had masses with twenty-eight flowers each. One of our plants now has over seventy flower-buds swelling, and will soon be in perfection. I hope to send you a photograph shortly. Pink Pearl reminds one of the Rhodo- dendron Lord Palmerston in growth, and it flowers about the same time. We have a very good collection of hardy Rhododendrons in these gardens, but nothing to equal Pink Pearl for colour and size of bloom and truss. F. J. Thornb (gardener to Major Joioey). Sunningdale Park. THE WISTAKIA. I HAVE been reminded lately of the wonderful way in which the Wistaria grows in some parts of England, and even more luxuriantly in the South of France. An old tree I know of in a basque village near Biarritz, called Ustaritz, is growing against one of the more important houses in the village, and covers it completely. Not only that, but branches have been trained so as to cover the rails in front of the house, and to form an arch over the gate. Unless one has been fortunate enough to have seen Wistaria multijuga growing in Japan, it is difficult to picture the beauty of this tree, with its exquisite showers of pale blue flowers, which fill the air with their delicate fragrance. I have also seen a pergola planted alternately with Wistaria and Laburnum, the two plants, mingling their flowers of blue and gold, make a delightful contrast. The Wistaria is a slow grower at first, but when once established makes rapid growth. A. de Lacy Lacy. included in that class of shrubs of which the Cardinal Willow and Dogwood are well-known examples. It was for a long time confounded with Berberis aristata, and it has been also known as B. asiatiea and B. Lycium ; but these matters were cleared up some years ago in the Botanical Magazine, where it was figured (t. 7116). A winter comparison of these two Barberries causes one to feel a certain amount of surprise that their distinctness should have been doubted, for B. aristata, altogether a stronger growing bush, has the young shoots clothed with greyish bark, whereas in the other it is, as above stated, of a warm reddish brown hue, a feature of especial interest just now to the readers of The Garden who have profited by the Hon. Vicary Gibbs's paper in a recent number, in which the winter beauty of shrubs formed a notable feature. For cutting down annually, as recommended for many things, this Barberry would appear to be well suited, but unfortunately it is very difficult to obtain from nurseries, although time may alter this. It is perfectly hardy, and holds its own in dry soils as well as the common Barberry. T. CYTISUS (LABURNUM) VOSSI. In this variety, probably a sport or seedling from C. praecox itself, a cross from 0. albus and C. purgans, we have a plant of slender habit, with pendulous racemes of light yellow flowers abund- antly produced, as well adapted for pot culture as for the open ground. F. M. BERBERIS VIRESCENS. The nomenclature of some of the Himalayan Barberries, of which this is one, is in a decidedly •confused state, for both the deciduous and the evergreen species are somewhat variable in •character. That at the head of this note is, as far as its summer features are concerned, not equal to the common Barberry and others of this class, but in winter it stands out beyond them all. The reason of this is the warm reddish brown ■colour of its young bark, which enables it to be SPIR.EA ARGUTA. This shrubby Spiraia, perhaps the most valuable of all the hybrids, has for the last few years gained annually many admirers from its beauty as an outdoor shrub, but of late it has proved to be excellent for flowering under glass. A hybrid from the pretty little Japanese Spiraea Thun- bergi, this newer form bears a certain resemblance to it, but differs therefrom in several well-marked features, and is altogether a much finer plant. Out of doors Spirsei arguta flowers as a rule during the month of April, at which time the slender arching shoots are thickly studded with corymbs of pure white blossoms, whose tint ■GOLD MEDAL GROUP OF DAFFODILS AT THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SOCIETY'S SHOW HELD AT BIRMINGHAM RECENTLY. THE PREMIER DAFFODIL BLOOMS AT THE BIRMINGHAM SHOW. (King Alfred mi the right, White Qneen in the centre, and Beacon on the left.) contrasts markedly with the dark-coloured bark of the shoots. A most desirable feature of this pretty species is its almost complete immunity from injury through cutting winds and spring frosts which play havoc with some other members of the genus. As a shrub for the greenhouse it forces readily and lasts a long time in bloom. Its value in this respect has befln well exemplified during the present season in No. 4 greenhouse at Kesv. H. P. PRUNUS DAVIDIANA IN SCOTLAND. Contrary to one's expectations in such an un- settled season, Prunus davidiana, which I have now had here for several years, has done better than usual this spring, and both the white and rose-coloured forms have flowered with even greater freedom than heretofore. In many seasons the first flowers are caught by severe frosts after opening, and it is later before one has the full enjoyment of the beauty of the remainder, but this season there have been many opened flowers, while the later blooms made the branches quite bright and cheerful-looking. I believe there are two forms with white flowers, that here being the erect or fastigiate one, generally considered the better of the two white varieties. I prefer the white to the rose-coloured one, but this season the latter has been so very attractive that it has risen considerably in one's estimation. Carsethorn, by Dumfries. S. Arnott. GOLD MEDAL DAFFODILS AT THE BIRMINGHAM SHOW. ONE of the accompanying illus- trations shows the group of Narcissi exhibited at the Bir- mingham Daffodil Show by Mrs. BerJieley, Spetchley Park, Worcester, which gained first prize (a gold medal) in the class for twelve varieties of seedlings. Among them were some beautiful flowers ; for instance, Incog- nita, white, with flat pale gold cup ; Aurora, rounded perianth segments, yellow orange- tipped cup ; Rhymester, a fine poeticus variety; Earl Grey, primrose-yellow trumpet; Siren, a large bicolor Ajax ; and Robert Berkeley, pale sulphur, with short frilled trumpet. The other illustration shows the three premier blooms in the Magni-coronati, Medio-coronati, and Parvi-coronati sections respectively. King Alfred (on the right) was shown by Messrs. Barr and Sons ; White Queen (in the centre) by Messrs. Pope and Sons ; and Beacon (on the left) by Mr. P. D. Williams. The illustrations are from photo- graphs by Mr. W. A. Watts. 300 THE GARDEN. [May 20, 1905- CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor ia not re-spoimhle for the opinions expressed by correspondentd. j DAFFODILS FROM SEED. [To THE Editor or "The Garden."] SI R , — For the laat three years various people have kindly sent me pollen flowers of Narcissi for crossing pur- poses, and I have kept very careful records of the results, which for the three years are almost identical. The average number per cent, of flowers crossed with the pollen from a distance that set seed e.xceeded that of flowers crossed with home pollen. Simi- larly the average number of seeds per pod from the foreign pollen was higher than that from the home pollen, and the germination of the former was slightly better than the latter. These results have worked out almost exactly the same each year, i e., the averages of the three years together coincide almost exactly with those of any one year. I cannot say that 1 can detect any dif- ference in the vigour of the seedlings, but for this purpose one would have to experiment with exactly the same crosses, half of a batch of any one variety being crossed with a flower grown at home, and the other half with the same variety grown at a distance. One might then obtain some interesting information as to the effect the foreign pollen has as regards the vigour, size, &c., on the resulting seedlings. I find the following Narcissi, among others, seed fairly freely — Trumpets : Mrs. Thompson, M J. Barkeley, Golden Prince, Big Ben, Wear- dale, Duke of Bedford, maximus, Mrs. W. Ware, Horsfieldi, albicans, King Alfred, P. R. Barr, oernuus pulcher, Mrae. Plemp, Glory of Noord- ■wijk. Emperor, Florence, Mme. de Graafif, Sol, and Golden Spur. Of the other classes the following : Firebrand, Minnie Hume, Princess Mary, Sceptre, Blood Orange, Dorothy Yorke, White Wing, Pole Star, Mabel Cowan, Beacon, Mrs. Bowley, Lady M. Boscawen, Cresset, Queen Alexandra, Lucifer, Flambeau, Flora Wilson, and most of the poeticus varieties. The following I have found good pollen flowers — Trmnpels: King Alfred, Golden Spur, Glory of Noordwijk, Mme. de Graaff, Florence, Monarch, Santa Maria, Mrs, Burbidge, Weardale Perfection, and coronatus. Of the other classes the following are a few reliable pollen flowers : Triandrus albus, T. calathinus. Will Scarlett, Jonquil, Flora Wilson, Bernardi varieties. Lady M. Bjscawen, Beatrice, and almost all the poelicus varieties, which are the most useful of all. Of course, there are many others that are good seed and pollen flowers, but those I have enumerated are those which I have found to be some of the most certain of those that I grow. N. B. [To THE Editor of "The Garden'."] Sir, — As Mr. Arthur R. Goodwin asks for the experience of others in growing and seeding the Daffodil, and as you yourself supplement his request, I venture to give a few of the results of my short and comparatively limited experience. In speaking of that useful variety N. Elackwell, your correspondent does not mention what I have found to be the case, viz , that it is a reliable seeder. For several seasons I have found this so, and, in crossing it with suitable varieties of N. poeticus, one ought to be able to count on getting by and by some handsome, useful, and early red- cups. I have not yet had the good fortune to see N. poeticus Acme, for in visiting Mr. Eagle- heart's grounds this year I was a little too early for it, but I recollect that he spoke of it as one of his best " Poets," and was sorry that I could not see it in bloom. N. poeticus Virgil was, how- ever, in perfection at the time of my visit, and is a flower of wonderful beauty ; the perianth segments may be described as ovoid in form, and the colour of the cup is uncommonly striking and brilliant. Besides IJIackwell (mentioned above), obvallaria. Emperor, Princess Mary, and Lulworth are all constant and reliable seeders for the use of the beginner. Of the last-named sort I have never so far fertilised a flower which has not produced a pod of seed. No doubt the above little list could be greatly extended by someone in a larger way than myself, and in this connexion I may say how welcome to the Dafi'odil grower would be a book from the pen of Mr. Engleheart. He is, indeed, a Triton among the Minnows, for, where some of us are happy in raising our seedlings by the thousand, he raises his by the hundred thousand or more, and the experience that he has gained in his twenty-five } ears' work would be more than useful in book form to the rapidly-increasing number of the lovers of his flower. F. Herbert Chapman. Guldeford Lodije, Rye. DIPPING WELL FOR ALPINE PLANTS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — The photograph represents the casing of an ancient (probably Roman) dipping-well, worked out of one solid block of tufa rock (now split in two halves), which I saved from de- struction by asking leave to remove it to my It likes a light soil, open subsoil (deep calcareous- gravel), and open position. Eremurus robustus and E. himalaicus have passed through the winter in like manner, except that they had a. mulch about IJ inches of decayed manure oq them. Planegg, Bavaria. E. Heinrich. SPARROWS EATING GREEN FLY. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir,— Your contributor " E. K. R." speaks of the fact of sparrows eating green fly as "a local accomplishment of the sparrows of a particular neighbourhood," so I thought it might interest him if I let you know my own experience. We had a bed of Roses in our garden in the west of Ireland. One spring the young shoots were thickly covered with aphides, and I saw a sparrow alight on the bushes, and, taking each shoot in turn in its beak about 2 inches from the top, it drew its beak along to the point, passing the shoot through its mouth. When the sparrow flew off I examined the bushes closely, and found that each shoot the sparrow had operated on was practically cleared of green fly, and was quite uninjured by the process. I admit it is the only useful thing I have ever known a sparrow to do. Clarendon Road, London, ]V. H. E. Seton. MYROBALAN HEDGES. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — We have in this neighbourhood a very good hedge of this description which seems to answer the purpose very well, but apart from the shrub being somewhat rarely planted as a hedge I do not think it can compete with a very fine hedge which I know of Berberis Darwini, which when in bloom is very beautiful and most effective as a. fence. If I were planting a new hedge I should certainly plant the latter for preference. Holywood, County Down. Walter Smyth. OLD DIPPING well COVERED WITH PLANTS. garden. It had been lying about the village for years, serving as a receptacle for rubbish, and was about to be smashed up for road making. I set it up just above a rock, from the base of which a little artificial spring rises, thus suggesting that the latter really originated inside the old disused well. The well of the stone having been filled in with suitable grit and garnished on the mouth with pieces of tufa, it is now planted with some fifty species and varieties of the choicest alpine plants. The " king " of the show, a fine specimen of Sixifraga longifolia, now 9 inches across, is seen facing the stone, it has commenjed vigorous growth again without showing signs of inflorescence, so I may hope it will reach 1 foot diameter before that event happens. S. Elisa- beth;v has been beautiful. Pianegg. E. Heinrich. HARDINESS OF OSTROWSKIA MAGNIFICA. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — As to the hardiness of the above plant lately mentioned in The Garden, it may interest your readers to know it passed unscathed last winter with a maximum of .54° of frost, i.e., 22" below zero, without the slightest protection. Since it has appeared above ground we had several times 9° to 10^ of frost in the night, which, however, left no mark on it whatever. ERIOSTEMON NERIIFOLIUS IN THE OPEN. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — This little Australian shrub, stated on page i226 to be synonymous with E. myoporoides, will flourish in the open in certain parts of Corn- wall. In the class for twenty varieties of hard- wooded outdoor flowering shrubs at the Truro show of the Cornwall Daffodil Society, on the 4Lh ult. , the Hon. .John Boscawen showed flower- sprays of this plant, and, two days later, I had the opportunity of seeing the plant itself at Tregje. It was a sturdy little shrub about 2 feet in height, and of the same diameter, and with its numbers of white, flesh-tinted flowers was a. very pretty and uncommon sight, while it was evidently in the best of health. S. W. Fitzherbert. THE .JAPANESE IRIS (I. L.EVIGATA). [To the Editor of "The Gakden."] Sir, — I notice that " E. J." (page 238) recom- mends a half-shady place for this Iris. In the south-west it succeeds admirably in the full sun. The finest plants I know of, which are growing ill a beautiful Cornish garden situated in a sheltered but sunny vallej', are remarkable examples over 4 feet in height, with flowers 1 foot across. In another garden, though the plantation is of much more recent date, every- thing points to a like success being attained. In this case also the plants are growing in the full sun. .Just above the bed runs a tiny streamlet, which, during hot weather, is turned into the bed for some days together, so that the plants are kept moist during the summer heat. In a third case, where these Irises are growing in a shady spot by water, the result is far less satis- f.iotory, both as regards growth and floriferous- ness, but this may be attributable to the soil, although the garden is only two miles distant May 20, 1905. TEE GARDEN 301 from that last mentioned. These Irises delight in a rich, porous root-run, and moisture during their growing period is beneficial to them, but my experience is that they resent the soil about their roots being saturated with water through the winter, and I believe in Japan, where they are flooded during the spring and summer, the water is entirely shut off in the autumn and winter. I even think that a dry position is preferable to one that is sodden during the winter, and I have seen hundreds of these Irises in perfect health and flowering freely under such conditions, though it cannot be said that the plants were so vigorous or the flowers so large as they would have been had they had the advantage of moisture during their growing and flowering period. S. W. F. THE WOODLAND GARDEN. 1HAVE lately seen woods of singular tree beauty in several country places, woods with all the natural advantages of soil, air, and country, and well placed near the house — a charm which does not always occur. In these places there was all the dignity and grace of tree-life that could be desired — the trees planted with loving care by past owners ; but very often such woodland is neglected until ugly plants take possession, such as Nettles, Bog's Mercury, and, most hateful of all, the common Elder and Privet. In such woods covert is rightly sought for game, shelter, and other ends, and there is no reason why it should not take a beautiful form and be free of the enemies just named. There are no situations about a country house that offer such opportunity for beauty as these woodlands, where we can mass and enjoy many of the most beautiful of native shrubs, for which there is not always room in the garden. They would be far better in the woodland than in the usual mixed shrub- bery ; and good, wholesome undergrowlh does not interfere with the trees but rather helps them, whereas the growth of weeds and grass, often allowed to rankle over the ground, is hurtful in many ways. It is the nature of some of the finest natural woods to have an undergrowth of evergreen shrubs, as, for instance, in the Cali- fornian forests with their beautiful undergrowth of evergreens, the trees rising with clean stems far above them. The first essential in such clearings would be to get rid of the covert enemies by light grubbing, and plant in bold, free masses things that will fight the weeds. I know nothing that clears the ground below it more thoroughly than the Red Dogwood ; its foliage is so close. A cheap shrub, it gives winter effect in marshy or wet places beside streams and ponds, but it will also grow apart from water. Our native evergreens, eg., Holly, Box, and Yew — how much more beautiful and effective groups they make than the weedy trees which usually have possession. The common evergreen Barberry from North America is a beautiful covert shrub, with its foliage all through the winter and its fragrant and effective blooms in spring, but it should be held together in natural masses, and close enough to keep the ground clear. The too common way of having a lot of coarse Laurels and clipping them down to one level is stupid and ugly, because there are so many things that give a tine undergrowth without clipping. Take for example the large Partridgeberry (Gaul- theria Shallon) of North America, as it may be seen at Coolhurst. What an excellent under- growth it makes, and yet how little grown. Evergreen Barberries might alternate with our common native Birberry, which is such a brilliant thing in fruit, and wide masses of Aucuba and yellow Azaleas, which are now so easily raised. Such excellent evergreen covert plants as Cunningham's white Rhododendrons are a host in themselves, but there is too much of the dull pontieum. We should encourage the bright-coloured kinds, such as Jacksonii, and never put in a grafted plant. There are splendid kinds in the country, if people will only allow ihem to laver, as they often will when let alone in a wood. Kinds good in colour can be picked out in flowering time at the lowest rate the nursery trade offers. Only hardy things will be used, and in southern places we might have a little more variety of evergreen undergrowth. Some of the new Bamboos would help very much for effect, such as Palraata, which keeps the ground clean, and is very fine in character. In open and poor soils the Heaths would tell well, such as the Cornish Heath and the Common Heather in its stoutpst varieties. Sweet Briars, Wild Roses, and Brambles would naturally be welcomed, and it would be well to encourage native bushes like Viburnum, Sloe, and the beautiful Spindle Tree (Euonymus europaeiis), and plants such as Solomon's Seal and the Ferns, which often form a pretty undergrowth in woods. Wherever natural covert exists, as it often does in large woods — that is to say, tall evergreen Sedges like Carex paniculata, or handsome masses of Bracken or Brambles — they should be carefully kept, as there is no better covert. As regards the time for doing the work, the planting had better be done from early autumn until March or April, but much may be done throughout the year in clearing the ground and getting rid of objectionable plants. That is even better done in summer, as we are then more certain to make an end of them than if we do it in winter or autumn. When planting Holly in rabbity places it will be necessary to wire, and if we plant in large, bold masses, as we always ought, the wiring is easier. Happily rabbits do not attack Box, which is a great gain when seeking covert for hungry soils or poor dry bluffs. It is important in such woods to have the rides airy, clear, and green, and not less than 18 feet wide. In dry places there is little to do but clear them, but in wet soils it may be necessary to form a dick on each side, the soil from which should be thrown up to make the rides drier ; these dicks to be outside the 18 feet line. We lose nothing by having such rides, because the trees enjoy the soil, and the best timber often comes alongside them. Much can be done by seeds sown direct on the ground, even without covering. I raise acres of Broom and Furze by simply throwing the seed out of hand. In freshly cleared spaces these seedling plants would come more freely still, and the seed should be sown not too early in the spring. I mean it is better to sow in the first week of May than in March, as it gives the rabbits a little less lime to gnaw the small plants before they get well started. At least two kinds of Broom and two kinds of Furze are excellent to sow in this way, and not a few other things might be raised from seed in case of scarcity of plants; but most plants good for the work are to be had in forest nurseries in quantity, and only young healthy plants should be bought for this purpose. — Flora and Sylca for May. RIVIERA NOTE S. Ieis buc'Haeica has this year shown itself a vigorous and desirable garden plant, the strong leafy stems bearing up to fifteen white and yellow-lipped flowers, opening almost simultaneously. If it lasted in flower for a longer period it would be still more valuable. The same remark applies to many of the new hybrids and species of Oncocyclus Iris— the duration of their flowers is so very short. After all, nothing is so lasting and handsome as well-grown Iris susiana, and nothing yet really surpasses it as a stand-by in the spring garden. Iris tingitana, now long over, is the best winter fiower I know for .lanuary cutting. It is so lasting, so clear and handsome in colouring and petal, that I put it at the head of the choice Irises for this coast. Plenty of manure and moisture in winter are needful to its perfect flowering. This year I have seen a much smaller and darker form in some gardens, but what I know as the type seems far the finest. The Tkee P.eony is to this coast what the Rhododendron is to cooler, moister shores, and in magnificence of colour and size it is- quite unrivalled by any other flower of my acquaintance. It has been interesting to watch the development of some twenty-five varieties that have now been planted for nearly five years on a cool and semi-shaded terrace, where they have received plenty of liquid m.'Jnure in winter and early spriiag^ when starting into growth. The difficulty in making a selection of these beautiful flowering shrubs is so great, that in the end it is best to choose those of the strongest and most upright habit, for it is only those that make fine bushes laden with magnificent blooms in April. It is very vexing to struggle for years with some refractory variety one has seen at a .^how, while there are vigorous free-growing^ varieties to be found if only one knew it. The most admirable variety for habit, foliage,, colour, and flower is, in my judgment, Fragrans maxima, a clear flesh rose in colour of grand size. Souvenir de Ducher is the tallest and most vigorous of all, but its huge blooms are of a rich purple that only looks well with white or yellow. Zenobia, a rich purple with a tassel of gold stamens in the centre, is most beautiful and only a trifle less- vigorous in habit. These two varieties are useful as a centre of a big group or isolated as specimens ; they stand more exposure than tlie others. There are two or three whites of merit, but none of them are pure in tone except those two small - growing varieties. Bijou de Chusan and Perle des Blanche.=, which are exquisite in beauty but only make very small growth, so I would rather piint such varieties as Blanche de Noisette and Blanche de Chateau Frater, which will both make good bushes well covered with flowers of fine size. Flora and Murie Stuart, two single whites, are very straggling in habit and very short-lived, but they are much admired while they are in flower. But it is the salmon reds and carna- tion scarlets that are the most dazzling in beauty of all. Triomphe de Gand and Mme Stuart Low are the finest of all, but they need more shelter than the less brilliant sorts. Leopoldo and Cornelia, rose - reds, with a rich dark patch at the base of their brilliant petals, are smaller and dwarfer in habit, yet so lovely when well grown that they deserve mention. Reine Elisabeth, red, is so well known that I need say nothing about it, save that its habit is decidedly bad, aad so has disippointed many a beginner who expected a vigorous bush, which this variety takes many years to achieve. Of soft pinks and roses there are many good sorts, but they are all rather apt to str iggle, and need tying up. Louise Moticheiet, Comtesse de Tuder, Carolina d'ltalie, aiid carnea plena are beautiful examples of this. The single-flowered varieties are, as far as I have seen, lanky and bad in habit and their flowers very short lived, so while admiring their beauty I should not recommend a beginner to plant them. The difficulty with tree Pteonies is to be able to content yourself with those few varieties that are really admirable in growth and habit. All are so 302 THE GARDEN. [May 20, 1905. beautiful when cut that one would desire them all had one room and means to possess them. A rich calcareous soil is what they appreciate most, for I have never seen them ■quite at their best on a light soil anywhere. There are lovely shades of mauve and deep •crimson-blacks to be found, but so far I have not found their growth so vigorous and hand- some as those I have mentioned. This spring they have been very beautiful on this coast, ^showing that they can stand extremes of .heat and drought as well as winter frosts. Nice. Edwaed H. Woodall. a height of 3 feet, showing as many as forty flowers of a pleasing pale purplish rose. It is of easy cultivation, prefers a rich soil, and after dying down the bulb should be taken up and kept dry as long as no new roots are visible ; then replant it, but not too deep. Baden-Baden. Max Leichtlin. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. ILILIUM ROSEUM VAR. MULTIFLORUM. This Lily is a native of the lower ranges •of the Indian North-west Himalayas, and is seldom seen in European collections. It is not perfectly hardy, as growth begins early, and the leaves are likely to be damaged if it gets no protection or a sufficient cover- •ing of snow. It will do well in the south of England or grown in a frame or pot. It is a stately plant well worth some care, especially the variety which I had the good fortune to raise. This produces as many as fifteen flower- stalks from one bulb, and the main stems rise to WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 3, Southampton Street, Strand, W.C. Rhododendron Dochess of Portland. Messrs. Fisher, Son, and Sibray of the Royal Nurseries, Handsworth, Sheffield, send trusses of their beautiful new Rhododendron named Duchess of Portland, which is a lovely addition to the race of hybrids, the flowers being not only snow white but closely packed in a large head, backed with leaves of a cheerful green shade, the under side of quite a brown colour. Of the many new Rhododendrons raised at Handsworth, this must surely be accounted as valuable as any of the group, the flowers appearing so early in the year, which is, of course, no small advantage. It has the great merit also of perfect hardiness, received the award of merit from the Horticultural Society. It has Royal Polyanthuses and Primroses. Of the many gatherings of these spring flowers we have received this year none have pleased us more than those from Mr. E. Clements, Trusley Manor Gardens, Etwall. We can well under- stand that, to use our correspondent's words, " they have made a splendid show for some weeks past. The seed was sown in March, 1904." Cineraria stellata. A delightful series of flowers of this distinct race of Cinerarias comes from Mr. L. Gwillim, Begonia and seed grower, Cambria Nursery, New Eltham, Kent. The flowers seem to diflfer from the other strains in having petals with a decided tendency to reflex. Mr. Gwillim has evidently raised a form of stellata which has much grace and variety of colouring. Rose Fortune's Yellow. Beautiful flowers of this Rose come from Mr. R. Rynd, Brasted Rectory, Kent, and its warm colouring has been described before in The Garden. Those received were the second blooms, and our correspondent well remarks : " It is a Rose so seldom grown in a greenhouse that it may be of interest to some of your Rose lovers. I have had over 1,000 blooms." With the Rose also came a charming blue Lathyrus, L. sativus (the blue Chickling Vetch), which is frequently confounded with Lord Anson's Pea (L. magellanicus or nervosus, as it is sometimes called). OLILIUM ROSEFM VAR MULTIFLORUM. {Fi-om a 'pliutoijrapU sent by Uerr Max Ldchllin, Baden- Baih'ii.) Wallflowers from Ireland. Miss Charlotte G. O'Brien sends some double Wallflowers with the following note : " I enclose blooms of three old Wallflowers — Golden Chain (yellow), Golden Drop (orange), and Battle (brown). I am surprised not to see them more often mentioned as winter flowersrs. This winter Golden Chain began about November. I had two large bushes in flower all the winter, and recently I counted about 200 on one bush. The orange variety comes in more as an eaily spring flower, also the brown, which is not as good as the others, but is useful when cut to mix with them. Good bushes of Wallflowers are not as common as they should be, because people neglect to take cuttings, and the old plants seldom last more than four or five years. A sharp turn of drought will kill all the old plants of Golden Drop, the most delicate. At this season one should strike a quantity of young growths, and these cuttings make charm- ing beds of plants the following spring. I have had one in bloom from February — perennial Wall- flowers and scarlet French Anemone, edged with ' wine - stained ' Pausies. It has afforded a quantity of cut flowers, and I shall soon now move the Wallflowers into borders, where they will have room to grow into big bushes before next winter." (Jlianthus puniceus and its White Variety. A most interesting contribution to our table .limes from Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert, Kingswear, South Devon, this consisting of the scarlet (Uianthus puniceus and its while sport, which is not quite white, but has a creamy yellow shade. Mr. Fitzherbert writes: "You may remember that I sent you a few flowers of the crimson type just May 20, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 303 fcefore Christmas, when it began to bloom. Since then it has borne flowers, and is now an unbroken ■sheet of crimson covering over 100 square feet of •wall. The white variety is growing quite as fast, ■and is a pretty contrast, being on the same wall about 6 feet distant." Marechal Niel Rose Flowers. We have received from Mr. D. A. Todds, Daldown Gardens, Broomhouse, Glasgow, very fine flowers of MariSchal Niel Roses, "cut from an old plant covering the entire roof of a house 24 feet by 15 feet." In the note accompanying the flowers it is men- tioned that the plant has probably "been here for about twenty years, and is now carry- ing a large display of flowers." such remarks, where home supplies are \ dressing of horse or cow manure and largely required at this season of the year, 1 feel sure if it were but once seen growing and in full bloom by those who do not know it it would be soon universally grown. Where choice Roses are sought for in Apri' abundance of water, both clean and diluted, should be given when the plant is thoroughly established, winter or summer. Also freely syringe the plants when growing. For preference obtain pot plants for planting out, and May, and there is only a cold greenhouse as these can be planted any time up to mid at command, this is the variety to plant, for summer if not convenient before. Fortune's with simple glass protection and an abund- Yellow Rose in pots is very valuable for ance of air on all favourable occasions a house decoration. A plant here at the time wealth of highly coloured blooms is the i of writing, grown on a single stem G feet high (one season's growth), is carrying twenty beautiful flowers in a (j-inoh pot. G. Ellwood. Swanmore Gardens. HORIZONTAL TRAINING OF PEAR TREES. "So other hardy fruit, in my opinion, lends itself so well to this system of training, or succeeds better when this plan is adopted, than the Pear. I have tried the Apple, Peach, Plum, and Cherry, but these have never appeared quite at home or so productive as when trained in a fan- shaped way. The horizontal system of training the Pear has many points in its favour. Once the frame of the tree has •been formed (as in the illustration), the further work of ex- tending the growth of the tree consists in securing the terminal result, providing the following simple details PEAR TREE BEURRE D AMANLIS IN THE GARDEN OJ VISCOUNT POWBRSCODRT. shoots of the branches to the wall, either by tying tqwires or by nailing in the old-fashioned way. DAMASK ROSES. Damask Roaes are usually associated in the popular mind with a dark crimson colour whichever class they belong to ; but the true Damask Roses (R. damascena) were for- merly an important group, but have dwindled down now to some seven or eight sorts. Strange to say, most of these are either white or rose-pink in colour. One of the most beautiful is Mme. Hardy, a very charming Rose with paper-white flowers. It flowers early, yielding quanti- ties of its charming blossoms, which, how- ever, are somewhat marred by the green centres. This variety makes a good standard, and is also good as a pillar Rose. It is as hardy as the native Hawthorn. Leda or Painted Lady has ex- quisite blossoms, blush edged with lake. La Ville de Bruxelles is of the fresh colour seen in the Hybrid Perpetual Roses Heinrich Schultheis or Mme. Jules Grokz. The flowers are carried out. The colour is hard to describe, yellowish .._,. This work is so simple and easily done, orange, flushed and flaked with carmine, . j /-, And so pleasant, that even the youngest I equally as beautiful when the flower is fully 1 a^e very flat, fairly large and full. Of course, amateur may be trusted to carry it out. It out as when in the bud state. One ad- =f ^,I^o^«« ^o»W "°t be ooked at in the height is also, I think, the handsomest way of train- vantage it also has.is that of throwing long "L^'cL'L'^ds^rem'to'our notice^'^Th; dTrTd ing a Pear tree The large veteran well- flower-stems with just one flower to a stem, Damask is one of the most handsome single Roses trained horizontal Pear trees in old gardens wasting no buds in this respect in cutting, we possess, unless it be that Turner's new variety when in full bloom in spring, or loaded in I The position to choose for planting can even ' ... -autumn with ripe fruit, are very beautiful, be the worst in the house. It flourishes equally well if planted the north end of the greenhouse, though making it somewhat later, an advantage if the same variety is planted on the south side, as a succession results. A border composed of three parts turfy loam, one part each of burnt garden \ refuse and decayed manure, with a good ' sprinkling of bones should be prepared for the plant. If a stage or trellis should cover the selected site, just cut a hole large enough to bring the stem through, training a single Moreover, I think the Pear is quite as fertile — if not more so — when grown in this way than when trained fan-shaped, and especially so in the case of those varieties having robust -and free growth. Owen Thomas. THE ROSE GARDEN, is somewhat of larger size and may possibly surpass it. The striped Damask or Rosa Mundi is the best striped Rose we have. Although not the true York and Lancaster, it is far more beautiful and showy. It will at times sport back to the self-coloured type. P. EOSE FORTUNE'S YELLOW, ¥ T NFORTUNATELY, this dis- ROSE.MME. P. PERRY. Tuts excellent Tea Rose is apt to be overlooked owing to the great annual influx of novelties, but there are so many good points in the variety that it would be a pity if it were lost tn our collections. It is only a bud Rose, but what a Stem up to the trellis, where it should be ' °'i*'"'"i°g ^ud, and of such a delightful pale tinct and charming Rose is little i encouraged to form several main rods, which grown or even known, but this , will eventually flower almost their entire should not be the case, especially I length. The simple secret of flowering this when we realise that it has been ' plant successfully is to prune hard back in cultivation for the past half annually, immediately the flowering season is ■century. Many may say the flower is not i'ull enough, or that it does not stand well. over, to these strong main rods, thus pro- saffron yellow colour. The vigour of the variety is equal to our best Tea Roses in this respect ; the strong substantial growths spring up most luxuriantly from old plants, throwing up iha fine clusters of flowers quite 3 feet from the base. There is a delicious fruity fragrance about the Rose, more intense than in some of the Tea- moting vigorous fresh growths for the next | scented sorts. Fragrance should also be very iet me advise all to grow it, in the face of season's flowering. An occasional top- i marked in a Tea Rose, P. 304 TllK GARDEN. [May 20, 1905. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. M" ILDEW ON OPEN-AIR VINES.— This is generally prevalent in a dry, hot season, and the cause is dryness at the roots or lack of nourishment. The same cause has, and will, pro- duce mildew on Grape Vines under glass. Very few people take the trouble to water or otherwise nourish the outside Vines, or even properly disbud or train the shoots. Some years ago, in September, I was passing through the villages of Oldhurst and Woodhurst (I am writing from memory, and the two villages are near each other), and saw the best lot of open- air black Grapes I had seen for years. The villages in ques- tion are in Huntingdonshire, in the midst of a corn-growing district, miles away from a railway station. Every house (they were mostly of the cottage tvpe) was covered with Grape Vines. Even those houses abut- ting on the village street were covered, and the roots of the Vines must have been under the roadway. Whether the villagers fed their Vines in any way I did not ascertain, but there must have been a presiding genius who knew something of gardening in the village who had set the matter going. In this matter example is often better than precept. I have known other instances in country villages where the guidance of a skilled hand has been useful. Varieties of Grapes for Ope7i Air. — The Grapes 1 saw at Oldhurst were black, and both bunches and berries were large and well coloured, and the berries had evidently been thinned. The variety was the Esperen, a good Grape for a warm wall, and the walls of a house are much warmer than a garden wall. Tne next best Grape, and one much grown outside, is the Muscadine. For- syth speaks of the large bunches he grew of this in the Royal Gardens a century ago. Black Cluster and Miller's Burgundy, or the Dusky Miller, are very free ; though the berries are email, they are sweet. The Ki/lartirnj Rose. — Few of the favourite Hybrid Tea Roses have attained such popularity as the variety illustrated. It has the longest buds of any of the Roses we possess, and to see these deep buds in the early summer or late autumn, when the weather is favourable to this type of Rose, is a keen pleasure. Although the variety is little more than semi-double, so tirni in texture are its petals that I have frequently seen it in the front or second row of an exhibition box. Pink Pujses are so abundant that a variety must be really good to survive the competition of novelties, and this Killarney has done, and will continue to do, for some time to come. The colour is really a flesh pink shaded white, and so perfectly distinct from other pink varieties. The great loose petals of the expanded blossoms, SIMPLE HINTS. even when they are full blown, have a charming effect on the plant, and they will continue in this state for a long time before they drop. The plant is vigorous, of upright habit, rather inclined to send out side branches, and the tender ruby-red foliage is very pretty. Unfortunately, the foliage becomes much mildewed sometimes, which often quite mars the beauty of the flowers, but if syringed early, before mildew appears, with a solution of sulphide of potassium, the disfigurement of foliage is minimised. In THE BEAUT IFOL KILLARNEY KdSE. The Garden for June 25 of last year Mr. Good- win gives pirticulars of his method of applying the sulphide, and all who have been troubled with mildew would do well to read Mr. Good- win's notes. Although it is well to know of a remedy it would be better still to obtain a race of Roses quite mildew-proof. That this is possible I t|uite believe, and is only a question of time. Killarney makes a very handsome standard, or half standard, and its constant blooming habit is seen to advantage when it is erown as a standard in a conspicuous position. Killarney is an excellent Rose to grow under glass. It has a decided, though not powerful, fragrance. Killarney was introduced in 1S98 by Messrs. Alexander Dickson and Sons. — P. Runner Beans. — These are not a success ia poor ground, and if planted, as they often are, in manured trenches, the trenches should hav& time to settle, or they should be made firm by treading. Pretty well all plants do best in a- firm root-run provided the land has been deeply worked and had time to settle down before planting. I think some of the failures of this crop one hears about arise from the loose nature of the soil. The Scarlet Runner in some of its forms is very popular, so much can be done with it, not only in growing it for its pods, but to form screens in small gardens and to cover naked fences and walls. The white-seeded variety of Scarlet Runner is a good variety to plant as a sut cession to th& common tjpe, as it bears so well late in the season. I usually start with the scarlet early in Miv, and plant the white - seeded variety in the middle of Jane. Tender and True, a climbing form of the dwarf Kidney Bean, is very prolific, and does well under glass. If planted in a low span- roofed house and trained near the glass heavy crops are obtained. Subtropical Bedding. — Beds of Cannas or Indian Shot are beautiful in sheltered places. For several seasons I left then> all out during the winter, covering the beds with leaves, finishing oflf with long litter. The plants were quite safe Id the ground, and grew vigorously the following season ; but the untidiness of the heaps of litter on the lawn troubled me, and it was given up and the plants stored in the usual way. I mention this to show that the roots only require protectioQ from frost in winter. We have better varieties now than we had thirty jears ago, and though sub-tropical bedding in some of its features has been reduced or abandoned in many places, beds of fine-leaved plants are very ellective in sheltered gardens. Most of the plants may be raised from seeds in February or March in heat, and as the planting will not take place before .June, there is time to get up strong plants. This system may be worked in con- ' nexion with late Tulips or other late-flowering spring plants. Among the most useful things besides Ca,nnas are Gibson's Cistor Oil plant, variegated Maize, Ferdinandaeminens, one or two- Solanums, the blue Gums, the tilant Hemp in the background, and the variegited Coltsfoot and the Fishbone Thistle near the front of the border or group. For colour the new golden- leaved Elder plumosa aurea retains its colour well, and there are several variegated Abu- tilons which are very useful in this kind of decoration. A mass of Gibson's Cistor Oil plant planted 3 feet apart, with a groundwork of silver -leaved Geraniums, when placed ia some sheltered recess of the lawn is very elTec- tive.— H. MAY 20, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 305 GARDENING OF THE WEEK, FLOWER GARDEN. BEFORE the general bedding out takes place, in which usually all available hands take part, it will be well to give The Herbaceous Borders and beds atten- tion, for growth in many plants will now be very rapid, neceasitating constant attention in judicious thinning and staking. Many spring-flowering plants and annuals are by this time out) of bloora, having to be cut back or cleared away, as the case may be, and the vacant spaces prepared for further planting of such as will form a succession. Herein lies much of the art of effective and successful flower gardening. Fork deeply any bare patches and apply bone-meal freely or other reliable and suitable manure, according to the richness of the soil and the nature of the plants. The latest Sweet Peas sown in pots should be planted in clumps of separate colours at the back of the borders. They break the flatness and are very pleasing. Some may also be sown where intended to bloom if thought desirable, but after this date there is not much gain in later sowings, for, with some exceptions, nothing much but haulm and leaves are produced ; it is fir better to rely upon the earlier sowings, attending regularly to picking off seed- pods as soon as formed, topping the plants occasionally, and feeding liberally both by top-dressings and waterings, Under such treatment comparatively early-raised Sweet Peas will continue flowering freely until the advent of cold sunless weather and frost. Hollyhocks raised in heat early in the year and grown on gently should also be planted. They form a fine back- ground, and flower fairly well as annuals, the single sorts especially. Campanula pyramidalis, blue and white, and perennial Delphiniums which were sown in autumn or early in the spring must also be put out in their permanent quarters without delay if expected to bloom this summer. Plant irregularly and somewhat more in the foreground than the Hollyhocks, and provide a rich larder for them. Phlox decussata varieties and similar plants should have weakly and surplus shoots cut out, leaving strong flowering stems. Secure to inconspicuous though strong enough stakes, but avoid tying up in sheaves. Sow Polyanthus in slight heat under glass. Given an early start and subsequent liberal treatment they will bloom more or less through the winter and freely in the spring. Violets.— There are quiet shady uooks in most places where a few Violets could be introduced. Select slightly shady positions, a few, if possible, near the dwelling, and many about the woodland walks and wild garilen, but clear of drip from densely overhanging trees. Cultivate and enrich, the ground thoroughly, and plant with well- rooted strong runner?, afterwards partly burying crowns and leaves with leafy soil, thus ensuring shade and continuous moisture until started into fresh growth. The single varieties are the most generally useful and satis- factory for this purpose. Princess of Wales is about the largest in leaf and bloom, but kinds with smaller leaves and flowers and shorter stems, e.g., V. odoratissima and others similar, are very satisfactory in this way. The shorter sturdy stems keep the blooms upright and above the soil, and the leaves are not so large as to smother the flowers. Of doubles there is nothing, of course, better than Marie Louise. John Roberts. The Gardens^ Tan-y-bwlck, North Wales. Erratum.— In your issue of the tithinst., in the twentieth line from the bottom of my notes, "May" should be substituted for "April" in connection with Holly plant- ing.—J. R. INDOOR GARDEN. The removal of the bedding plants to frames and outside has relieved the crowded condition of many of the houses. Plenty of room will be available for potting on and thinning out plants for the decoration of the houses. In the cool houses the ventilators and doors can be thrown open when- ever the weather is favourable. More damping of the staging and floors is necessary as the sun gains power. CoLEUS thrysoideus.— Propagation of this plant may be commenced towards the end of May. Insert cuttings about 3 inches in length singly in small pots, using sandy soil. Plunged in a propagating frame, with bottom-heat they soon root. Cuttings for succession and small plants with one spike can be put in till August. When rooted grow on in an intermediate house. Avoid giving the plants a check in any way, as they are very liable to lose the bottom leaves. Take out the points of the shoots once or twice, four to six shoots on a plant are quite sufficient. Similar treatment in every way will be found suitable for Moschosma riparium. Roses.— As the pot plants go out of flower, gradually harden off and place outside, preferably in a plunge bed, for the summer. Thin out the weakly growths, Hybrid Teas and Teas may be pruned a little with advantage. Those on the back wall, pillars, or roof of the house should be pruned little or much according to the variety. Gloire de Dijon, still one of the best free-flowering Roses, requires hard pruning, while such varieties as climbing Niphetos and Dcvoniensis need little beyond the thinning of the shoots. Give liquid manure to both pot and border plants to encourage the production of strong, well-ripened wood. Cyclamen.— The larger plants are ready for moving into 5-inch pots. Use a compost of three parts turfy loam and one of leaf-mould and manure from a spent hot-bed, adding plenty of coarse sand. Place the plants in an inter- mediate house or pit near the glass. Syringe frequently, and shade from bright sun to encourage the growth of the corms as well as leaves. Fumigate occasionally us green fly soon injures the tissues of the young leaves. Jacobinias.— Take out the points of the young plants of J. coceinea and J. chrysostephana as soon as established after potting off from the cutting pots. Withhold manure water from J. magniflca vars. carnea and pohliana to encourage the production of flower-heads, when it can be commenced again. If a numberof flower-heads are wanted from each specimen it is much better to grow several plants in a pot. Only small heads of flower are usually obtained if many shoots are left on a plant. General Remarks.— Prune Medinilla magniflca if the plants are becoming unshapely after flowering. Repot if necessary when growth commences. Plenty of heat and moisture are necessary during the growing season. Place Carnations rooted early in the year in a cold frame. Malmaisons coming into flower require a little shade during the brightest part of the day. Secure safely all flowering spikes. Sow seeds of Humea elegans. The young growths of Smilax are developing rapidly ; carefully twist round strings or they will soon become hopelessly entangled. Royal Botanic Gardens, Eew. A. OSBORN. ORCHIDS. Denurobium Phal^nopsis.— This species is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful of all Dendrobiums in cultiva- tion. Distinct and showy forms are among every importa- tion. The colour of the flowers varies considerably, some being pure white, others from soft pink to rich crimson- purple. The flowers remain in perfection on the plants for a long time, and also when cut, which makes it invalu- able for exhibition and for decorative purposes generally. It is quite six months ago since the established plants flowered ; since then they have been in a dormant con- dition, but, now that they are starting to grow freely, special attention should be given them. At flrst the new growths generally appear thin and weak, but in a short time they gain strength and swell out. When these young shoots are a few inches high they commence to push out a number of small tender roots from their bases, and before these make much progress the plants, if they require it, should be repotted, or, if repotting is not necessary, the old material should be carefully picked out from between the roots and fresh compost afforded. The plants will thrive equally well either in pots, shallow pans, or Teak-wood baskets, but these should be small in pro- portion to the size of the plants. I use the ordinary flower-pot, with wire handles attached, so that the plants are easily suspended well up to the roof glass, which is an important matter towards successful cultivation. Some growers prefer baskets, but I find the plants are more easily managed when they require more root room. It is exceedingly difficult to remove them from baskets without injury to the living roots, owing to the tenacity with which they cling to the wood. When repotting well- established plauts do not disturb the old roots more than is really necessary, but carefully break the old pot, taking away as much of it as possible, and, if the drainage is well filled with roots, do not disturb it, but place the whole together into a pot of a larger size, filling up to about half its depth with clean broken crocks. The compost should consist of coarse fibrous peat and sphagnum mos?. with broken crocks intermixed, and it should be packed firmly around the plants, as the roots delight to ramble through the hard, porous material. After repotting, tfcc. , place the plants in a hot, moist atmosphere and where they may obtain plenty of light. Keep them rather on the dry side for a few weeks until the new roots have run into the compost, after which water may be gradually and more frequently given. The lovely Dendrobidm Falcokerii, now rarely seen in flower, is generally grown much too warm, to which cause may be attributed the scarcity of the plant in our Orchid collec- tions. It is also frequently subjected to over-dryness through the resting season. Without doubt under such treatment the plant will produce abundance of bloora the following summer, but the after-growth is generally thin and weak. In order to obtain a fair amount of bloom the plant should be kept at the warmest end of the cool house during the winter months, and be syringed overhead about once a week. Now that the plant is showing its flower-buds, it should be suspended well up to the roof in the intermediate house, and should be kept there through the summer to make its growth. Give plenty of water. It will succeed upon a block covered with sphag- num moss, or the stems may be laid upon moss in a Teak-wood basket or flat raft. It will also do well if fixed upon a large piece of Tree Fern. During the growing period the plant should be well syringed overhead two or three times a day, so as to keep the young unexpanded leaves in the points of the growing shoots free of red spider and small yellow thrips, to which this species is subject. Bur/ord Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. FRUIT GARDEN. Pot Vines.— To keep the Grapes in good condition as long possible afi'er they are ripe the house must be kept cool and dry. Admit air plentifully both top and bottom in fine weather. A double thickness of fish-netting placed over the roof will considerably minimise the power of the sun's rays. Give clear water to the roots when necessary. Eauly Permanent Vines.— The fruit on these is now ripening rapidly, and a constant circulation of fresh air is necessary to obtain well-flnished Grapes. If the border needs more water it should be given before the Grapes are ripe. The laterals may now be allowed free extension till after the Grapes are cut. Keep the hot-water pipes always moderately warm. If the border has not been mulched it may now be covered with clean short litter. This will keep the surface cool and moist, and at the same time encourage a dry atmosphere in the house. Mabkesfield Cuukt Gkai'E,- This is one of the best early and midseason Grapes we have, provided it can be grown with success. But owing to their bad habit of cracking, just when the berries commence colouring, growers with limited convenience are very chary of growing it extensively. It requires a restricted rooting space, and the border should be made as Arm as possible. Do not under any consideration allow the roots to suffer from want of water or the Grapes will not finish perfectly. AH >w the laterals to grow freely when colouring com- mences, also encourage a leading shoot to grow down the back wall of the house. Early Peachf;s ani> Nectarines in Pots,— When the fruits are ripening the trees must not be given more water than is necessary to keep the roots moist. If the pots are not plunged in fermenting material they should be shaded from the sun's rays or they will need constant watering, which will have a prejudicial effect on the flavour of the fruits. When the fruits have been gathered place the trees in a cool house and syringe them morning and afternoon, occasionally using an insecticide. When the weather becomes mure congenial they may be brought outdoors and plunged in coal ashes. Early Permanent Trees which are showing signs of ripening their fruit should now be given a thorough watering so that no water will be required while ripening is in progress. Keep the laterals constantly pinched, and expose the fruits as much as possible to light and warmth. Much care and judgment are required in gathering the fruit. The underside alone should be touched when determining whether they are ripe. Gathering should be done as early in the day as possible. The heat of the sun will cause the fruits to become temporarily soft, which often inclines one to believe that they are ripe. Bat it will be found when the sun is gone and the house has become cool that the fruit has become quite firm. Fruits gathered in this condition will very often go bad before they are fit for use. E. Harriss. Fruit Department, Royal Gardens, Windsor. KITCHEN GARDEN. Parsley.— No matter how few failures m»y occur in the garden, failures with Parsley are inevitable, and curiously enough over kindness is frequently the case. This is un- fortunate, as Parsley is a herb for which there is a demand at all seasons. Should earlier sowings be patchy, which is often the case, and more particularly so in such weather as we have lately experienced, let the young plants be thoroughly moistened and thinned to about 6 inches apart^ selecting the best to fill vacancies. A dull and showery day is best for this process, but whether showery or not the plants should be well watered to settle the soil about their roots. As sowings made last year will soon be flower- ing, another good sowing had better be made. Parsley also forms a pretty edging for the outskirts of vegetable plots when sown parallel with and about 0 inches from the alleys. Should the ground be dry, let the bottom of the drill be made moist before sowing the Parsley seed. Potatoes are now appearing above the ground on the main crop plots, and should have some soil drawn over them as they appear to save them from late frosts. Early varieties on warm borders should be forked between the rows previous to being earthed up. If the soil is free and of an open nature the Dutch hoe will answer as well as the digging folk. Before either of these implements are used, however, every weed should be removed. Onions.— Onion seed has germinated well this season, and the showery weather that followed the cold spell has hastened their growth in a remarkable manner. As soon as weeds make their appearance they must be pulled out, for they are enemies in two ways— they help to impoverish the soil, and when near the young Onion plants occupy space checking the light and air, which are such essential factors in the growth of all young plants. Stir up the soil lightly between the rows with the Dutch hoe. Young Onion plants that were raised in heat and planted out some time ago are now growing rapidly, and should have the soil all around them and between their rows stirred up fre- quently with the Dutch hoe. They also benefit greatly from weak applicationsof liquid manure. Dustings of soot during showery weather are also beneficial to their well-being. Digging.- Let all ground that has been cleared uf winter vegetables be turned over without delay. If manuring is necessary, use that which was turned over some time ago ; the less fresh manure buried in the garden at this date the better. After the ground has been dug it should be firmly trod upon so as to retain moisture. Parsnips ani> Carrots also demand close attention at this season. They must be thinned out when the ground is moist. Parsnip plants may be placed about 9 incbes apart, and the Carrots may be kept some inches closer. The less thinning the better for Carrots, and in both cases the surface of the ground should be kept open and free from weeds. J- Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. RECENT PLANT PORTRAITS. The Botanical Magazine for May contains por- traits of Pruniis pseudo-cerasus. — Native of Japan and China. This is one of the common forest trees of Japan, and produces large and beautiful cupped flowers of a pleasing shade of rosy blush with whiter centres in great profusion. :£06 THE GARDEN. [Mat 20, 1905. Rhipsalis di^similis var. setulosa. — Native of Brazil. This is a curious upright - growing, , while innumerable genera of other plants repre- sented by a few species hitherto, are there found/ represented by scores of distinct ones, even the- Rhododendron ranging from huge trees 100 feet ■ high, down to tiny alpine plants under its varied specific forms ? Vivid pictures were drawn of mountain flanks entirely clothed with floriferous shrubs and herbaceous plants, such as the newly introduced Meconopsis integrifolia, a huge goldeD- yellow Poppy, which, as Dr. Henry said, seemed to have tried to be a Tulip, so like are its huge- blossoms, and of which a fine specimen appro- priately faced the president. A very large- number of quite new herbaceous plants have- been introduced by Mr. Wilson, and this one is one of the first to declare itself, and many others we are told are bound to follow soon, while some of the floriferous trees and shrubs on the list of introductions are predicted to become unique marvels of beauty as soon as they have reached the flowering stage. In these days of easy travel we are apt to assume that little more remains to explore of the earth's surface, but it is abundantly obvious from Mr. Wilson's and Dr. Henry's remarks that in China alone there is a practically inexhaustible field, while, thanks to the lofty elevation at which most of the treasures are found, they are mostly perfectly hardy, and thus admirably adapted for general culture and enjoyment instead of being confined to the stoves and warm houses of the wealthy. Allusion was made to the fact that a large number of plants, whose botanical name of japonica indicates Japanese origin, are more properly Chinese, and in many cases were introduced thence into Japan. The photographs exhibited showed that the scenery is of the grandest description, while the perils which ever accompany travelling in virgin regions were vividly shown by views of the tremendous rapids which had to be traversed in the compara- tively frail boat which formed the chief means of conveyance, while the fact that Jlr. Wilson was in China during the Boxer troubles, and yet never had any trouble with the natives, speaks volumes for his extreme tact. A very hearty vote of thanks was accorded the lecturer, who, to the great satisfaction of his hearers, promised to give a further instalment of his experiences illustrated with lantern slides. Nor was it forgotten to express the club's hearty recognition of the spirit of enterprise of Messrn. Vnitch, to whom the initiative of Mr. Wilson's effjrts was due, and to whom consequently the horticultural world will be primarily indebted. May 20, 1905.] THE GARDEN. IX. FORTHCOMING SHOWS. May '.3.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Tulip Shoffy. May 21. — Royal Caledonian Horticultural Show at Edinburgh (two days); York Society of Florists' Show. May 30. — Royal Hurticultural Society'^ Temple Show (three days) ; Bath and West of Enjrland Show (Hve d lys). June 1.— Rhododendron Exhibition, Botanic Gardens, Regent's Parle, throughout the month. June 7.— R lyal Botanic Society's Show (three days). June 16.— Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution Annual Dinner. June 20. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting; Salterhebble Flower Show. June 21.— York Gala (three diys). June27.— OxTo d Commemoration Show. June 23.— Southampton Roie Sho\v (two days); Rich- mond (Surrey) Iforlicullnral Show. June 29.— C'>lL-hestt r lli.rticnltural Show. July 4. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting ; National Sweet Pea Society's Show ; Sutton Rose Show. July 5."Tunbridge Wells, llanley (two days), and Croydon Flower Shows. July 6.— Nationnl Rose Society's Show ; Sidcup Flower Show. July 11,— Wolverhampton Floral F6'e (three days). July 13.— Woodbridge Horticultural Show. July 18.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting (Car- nation and Picotee Show) ; National Rose Sliuw at Gloucester. ■■. July 19.— Newcastle-on-Tyne Flower Show (three days); •York Florists' Show, . July 25.— Tibshelf Horticultural Show. July 26.— Southamj)ton Carnation Show and Cardiff Flower Show (two days). July 27. —St. Ives (Hunts.) Horticultural Society's Annual Show. August 1.— Rnyal Horticultural Society's Meeting. August 2. — Chesterfield Horticultural Show. August 7. —Lichfield, Wells, Manstitld, Grantham, and Ilkeston Flower Shows. August 9. —Bishop's Stortford, Tavistock, and Ventnor Horticultural Shows. Auzust 15.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting ; Clay Cross Horticultural Show. Augtist 16.— Calne and Harpenden Flower Shows. August 17.— Dyffryn District and Taunton Deane Horti- cultural Shows. August 19.— Seascale and Lake District and Sheffield Flower Shows. August-. 21.— ^Va^kworth Horticultural Show. August 22 —Rothesay and Oxford Flower Shows. August 23.— Shrewsbury Floral F6te (two days). Aug'ist 24.— Aberdeen Flower Show (three days). August 26.— Jedbursh Horticultural Show. August 29.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting. AugUit3Q. — Bith Flower Sliow (two diyO- August 31.— EUesmere and Sandy Ho: ticultural Shows. SOCIETIES. ROYAL GARDENERS' ORPHAN FUND. Annual Dinner. The seventeenth annual festival dinner of this institution was held on Thursday, the ll'h inst., at the Hotel Cecil. The Right Hon. the Eirl of Mansfield presided, and was supported by Dr. Maxwell Masters, Messrs. Herbert Hicks, Leonard Sutton, W. A. Bilnev, Edward Sherwood, H. J. Veitch, W. Sherwood, M. F. Sutton, J. W. Barr, G. H. Barr, G. Monro, and David P. Laird. There was a large gathering of supporters, the tables being well filled. Among those present were Messrs. Peter Kay, James Walker, James Douglas, H. B. May, J. F. McLeod, W. Howe, H. Cutbush, G. Hobday, T. W. Sanders, H. G. Cux, G. J. Ingram, and Brian Wynne (secretary). The festival proved very successful and most enjoyable. The total amount subscribed was £825. After the usual loyal toasts, the chairman proposed the toast of the evening, "The Riyal Gardeners' Orphan Fund." Lord Mansfield first expressed his thanks for the invitation extended to him to preside at the festival dinner of a fund of which he had heard so much. He noticed that out of 105 orphans who were on the funds of this institution, only thirteen of them were from Scotland. The chairman said that Scotland had produced many good gardeners. He went on to plead for the orphans of gardeners. Gardening is a very wide profession, and there are bound to be some orphans left behind. It is for their benefit that this institution exists. Bs as liberal as you are able, said the chairman. He thought it was the duty of every gardener to try and do a little for the fund. When they saw the beautiful flowers of to-day, productions of Nature and art, they must feelhow much they owed to the gardeners. His lordship referred to the flowers on the table as a galaxy of beauty, and thought the decorations the finest he had ever seen at a public dinner. They did immense credit to those responsible for their production and arrangement. In conclusion, the noble chairman commended the Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund to the earnest consideration of those present. Mr. Leonard G. Sutton, who responded, thanked the chairman for so ably proposing the toast of the Orphan Fund. As trustee, Mr. Sutton emphasised the need of supporting the institution. He hoped they would think of the needs of the fund, despite the attractive environ- niLMit of music and flowers. They must endeavour to carry on successfully the work of the promoters, and to let others know of the Orphan Fond and of its needs. The flowers strved to remind them of the gardeners and also of gardeners' orphans. All who have gardens are indebted to gardeners, and alt should try and help the fund. The toast of " Gardeners and Gardening" was proposed by Mr. Herbert Hicks, who referred to the great pleasure that flowers gave, and thought that all who took deli;^bt in tliem should endeavour to support a fund which exUied for the good of gardeners' orphms. In replying, Mr. W. A. Bilney mentioned that he was there as a substitute for two absentees. He Ihou^ht gardening was now more popular than ever. At Wtsley it was no uncommon thing to have 100 visitors a day. During the last twenty-five years gardening had much improved. They were getting rid of carpet bedding, ifr. Bilney said he understood that Messrs. James Veitch bad introduced from China and Thibet, through their collector, Mr. E. H. Wilson, some 5 000 new plants. Those already exhibited showed what they might expect. He advised them to visit gardens whenever they could, and especially advised a visit to Wisley. He thought a good garden the best memorial of a man, and referred to Wisley as a memorial,*of G. F. Wilson, and, in years to come, ( f Sir Thomas Hunhury. He thought that gardeners as a body were extremely dutiful men. Employers should bear in mind that a gardener was like a good wife, you only get one in a lifetime. He concluded by eulogising the services of gardeners. Rlr. Edward Sherwood proposed the toast of " The Visitors." They heartily welcomed them, new comers and old friends alike, and regretted the absence of thttse who had been with them on previous occasions. He hoped that their sympathy and help would be extended to the oiphin's of those who had worked for their pleasure. The Rev. .T. C. Eyre Kidson, in responding, said that when they thought of the men who had done so much to beautify gardens, they ought to do their best r>r the gardeners' orphans. In an excellent speech Air. Kidson urged visitors to help this fund, and promised to get what help he could from his friends. In the name of the visitors he wished the Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund every success. Mr. H. B. May proposed the health of the Chairman, a toast that was given with musical honours. Mr. May said this was the first occasion on which their chairman hailed from the land o' cakes. At Scone Palace, Lord Manstield's Scottish home, a love of gardening was fostered and encouraged. They were deeply indebted to the Eirl of Mansfield for so ably advocating the claims of the institulion. The Chairman, in response, expressed his thanks for Mr. May's remarks, and also for the kind reception given to him. Among the many dinners he had attended, that one would in no sense be looked back upon with the least pleasant memories. The toast of " The Press " was entrusted to the capable hands of Mr. David P. Laird, who, describing himself as a " wee laird " from Scotland, suggested to the Press tb.-it they should emphasise the fact that the Gardeners' Orphan Fund is a national, and not a London, institution. He thought the name should be changed to the British Gardeners' Orphan Fund. Mr. Laird eulogised theservice^i to horticulture of Dr. Masters, referring to him as the " grantf old man " of horticultural journalism. Dr. Masters, who replied to this toast, said that when they gave the toast of the Press they were, as a matter of fact, " blowing their own trumpets," for they provided the materials for publication, and it only remained for the editor to present them to his readers in an attractive guise. The music was excellent, and a most enjoyable evening was spent. The total amount subscribed was £S25", about £10 more than last year. The following were among the subscriptions announced : The Chairman, £50; N. N. Sherwood, £100; Leonard Sutton, £50; J. W. Wheeler Bennett, 50 guineas; Rothschild and Sons, 25 guineas ; James Veitch and Sons, 25 guineas ; G. Reynold^, £33 ; D. P. Laird, £16 ; George Cuthbert, £17 5s. ; R. H. Pearson, £14 lOs. ; H. J. Jones, £15; J. F. McLeod, £13 5s. ; Hurst and Son, £10 lOs. ; T. Smith, £10 IDs ; Chislehurst Gardeners' Association, £10 5s. ; W. D. Graham-Menzies, £10 ; Whitpaine Nuttinj, £10; W. Howe, £10; G. Castleton, £10; Barr and Sons, £10 ; Friends of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society and the Scottish Horticultural Association, £37 103. 6d. ; Covent Garden Friends of J. Assbee, £136 Sj. Gd. ; and sixteen employes of Edmund Rochford made themselves annual subscribers. The decorations, which were so admired by the chair- man, were supplied by J. Veitch and Sons, Wills and Seegar, H. B. May, Barr and Sons, J. Crouch, Joseph Low, A. F. Dutton, Sander and Sons, W. T. Ware, J. Walker, T. K'jchford, and the Stove Orchid Company. EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB. An essay competition upon "The History and Cultivation of the Apple" was arranged for the May meeting, the president, Mr. J. Powley, giving the prize money. The subject was well taken up. Eight good practical papers were sent in and read before the meeting, after which the judges, Messrs. J. E. Barnes, E. Foulger, and AV. Palmer, g ive their awards as follows : First, Mr. J. R. Mace, Thorpe St. Andrew; second, Mr. Alfred Cooke, Haifoid Lodge Gardens, Ipswich Road, Norwich ; third, Mr. H. B. Dobliie, Pine Banks Gardens, Thorpe, Norwich. The discus ijn upon the subject was well maintained. The subject of the annual excursion of the club was brought up, and, as Major Petre had consented to the club having every facility for visiting Westwick House Gardens, where Mr. George Davison raises and grows such choice hardy pl-in^s, &c., it was unanimously decided to go there on Jul> 20. Messrs. Daniels Brothers, Limited, Norwich, placed upon the table excellent (lowers of Narcissus Philip Hurt, a new variety of the Btsrnadi section, and one of the latest. It has a deep orange red cup. Mr. W. Shoesmith, gardener to F. W. Harnier, E^q., Cringleford, staged choice plants of Schizanthus, Primula japonica, and some well- coloured Strawberries. Mr. C. H. Fox's plant of the pretty early Phlox canadense were much thought of. The other exhibits were excellent. Messrs. G. Davison (West- wick), C. Marr (Hobbies, Limited, Dereham), and E. Gold- spink judged the exhibits. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Floral Committee (continioed). Caladiums were shown by Messrs. Laing and Son, Forest Hill. Heaths and the new Polyantha Rose Mrs. Wm. H, Cutbush were shown by Messrs. Cutbush, Hrghgate. Sume hilf- dozen heads of Rhododendron Falconeri came from Mr. E. Heath, Holmwood, Surrey, the plants having been grown without protection in the open. Fruit and Vegetable Committee. The collection of fifty sorts of dessert and cooking Apples from Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Cbtlsea, was awarded a silver Banksian medal. "Winter Peach was one of the most notable sorts. It is a clear pale yellow colour, keeps wonderfully well, and is excel- lent eating. Cox's Orange, too, was finely shown. Smart's Piince Arthur (culinary), Wadhurst Pippin, Baldwin (culi- naiy), Lamb Abbey Pearmain, Barnack Beauty, Wellington (cooking, very tine), Scirlet Nonpareil, Saiidringham, Middle Green (new), and Gooseberry (cooking) were among the best. Pears Bellissime d'lliver, Catillac, and Directeur Alphand were also shiwn by Messrs. Veitch. Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, sent a small collection of Apples, including Betty Geeson, Northern Greening, Hormead's Pearmain, Wellington, Annie Elizabeth, and others. Mr. J. Grandfield, The Gardens, Hayes Place, Hayes, exhibited some excellent fruits of Melon Hereof Lockinge. Cultural commendation. Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent, exhibited Peas King Edward VIL, sown on March 4 in a cool house, and ready fur picking May 4. It is an excellent variety, and turns in veiy early. They also" showed their Cannell's Defiance Cabbage and Model Broccoli. Cultutal commen- dation. A cultural commendation was given to S. Heilbut, Esq., Holyport (gardener, Mr. Stevens), for some very fine Lettuce of the variety Sutton's Golden Ball. New Fruits and Vegetables. Rhubarb Hobdcn/'s Oiant.— An unusually large Rhubarb of excellent flavour. It is vigorous, and does equally well for forcing as for outdoor culture. It is evidently a good Rhubarb and of quite extraoidinary size. The stems were quite 4 feet long. Shown by Mr. Hobday, Ftomford. Award of merit. Cucumber Aristocrat.— fihown by Mr. S. Mortimer, Farnham, Surrey. This is a long, rather slender, and smooth Cucumber, of very good shape. The fruit and vegetable committee confirmed an award of merit given to it. UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT AND PROVIDENT SOCIETY. The monthly committee meeting of this society was held at the Royal HorticuUural Hill, Vincent Square, West- minster, recently, Mr. Charles H. Curtis in the chair. Three new members were elected and one nominated. The death certificate of the late Mr. R. H. Robinson of Hever- shara was produced, and the amount standing to his credit in the society's books, viz., £43 12s. lid., was directed to be paid to his nominee. Fourteen members were reported on the sick fund, the amount paid out for sickness during the month being £4183. The next meeting will be held on June 19, the lilth being Bank Holiday. ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH HORTICULTURAL SOCIETV. Thr fourteenth annual show will be held on Wednesday, July 19. All entries must reach the secretary— Mr. J. H. Dunmore, Alandale, Moira Road, Ashby-de-la-Zouch— not later than 10 a.m. on Monday, July 17. LATE NOTES. Royal Botanic Society's Exhi- bition.—This will be held on June 7, 8, and 9 in their gardens, Repeal's Park. The exhibition will be opened by Princess Alexander of Teck. Bands will play daily from 2.30 to 6 p.m. Con- ferences and lectures will be held during the exhibition. Gold, silver-gilt, silver and bronze medals, and diplomas will be awarded. Insurance will be effected on all tents and buildings utilised, but otherwise exhibitors must insure their own goods. Refreshments will be provided. Baker Street Station is 5 minutes ; Great Central, 10 minutes ; Great Western, 15 minutes ; Euston, 15 minutes ; and Midland and King's Cross, 15 minutes from the gardens. THE GARDEN [May 20, 1905. A Rose show in connexion with St. Peter's Garden Fi'ie will be held at Bittenhall, Worcester, on Thursday, .June 29. Upwards of £2.3 in pri7.=!S is offcre 1. Nurserymen are invited to exhibit groups, &i. Entries are solicited from profes'ionalo .ind amateurs by the hon. secretaries, Messrs. A. R. E^igington and .J. H. Diniels. The raisers of The Bullet Brus- sels Sprouts.— Messrs. Fisher, Son, and Sibrav, Lmiited, Royal Nurseries, Handsworth, Sheliield, write : " In your valuable paper of the 0th inst. we notice Mr. G. Wythes gives a full description of Brussels Sprouts The Bullet, which variety deserves all the praise he bestows upon it, especially where this valuable vegetable is grown in private gardens where high quality is required. This variety was sent out for the fifst time by us in 1890, and not by the firm Mr. Wythes names in his letter." A new Rhubarb.— Hardly one-half the members of the fruit committee caring to vote, an award of merit was, bv nine votes only, granted to a new variety of Rhubarb at a recent Royal Horticultural Society's meeting. Besides the fact that the stems were rather longer than those usually seen, and probably distinct from other varieties, it had no other special merits. Certainly for half-forced stems these had not the very rich colour seen in some other varieties. Well may it have been asked whether any new Rhubarb now was worth an award of merit, so trifling, indeed, are the divergencies or improve- ments found in them. There will be growing at Wisley, when each named variety in commerce is there collected — and the existing collection Is a large one — some fifty varieties. It is really too ridiculous to assume that there is need in garden- ing for one-fourth of these. Possibly when well established next spring It may be possible for the fruit committee to overhaul this big collection.— A. D. The National Fruit Growers' Federation. — For some months past the National Fiuit Growers' Federation has been holding Its meetings within the hospitable wall- of the fine new hall erected in Vincent Square by the Royal Horticultural Society, and this contact seems likely to produce results beneficial to the industry in which the two societies are interested. A conference has been arranged under their united auspices for October 10, 11, and 12 next, when It is understood the following will he amongst the suVjects of discussion : Foreign competition and how to meet It, grading and packing, land tenure and rating dithculties, rail- way grievances, the proposed establishment of an experimental fruit farm by the B^ard of Agricul- ture, and insect pests. The chairmen for the different discussions will probably be Sir Trevor Lawrence, Birt., Mr. A. S. T. Griffith Bosoawen, M.P., Sir Albert Rollit, MP., Colonel C. W. Lnng, M.P.,and Mr. F. S. W. Cornwallis. As the great autunni fruit show will be held in the building at the same time as the conference, the combined attractions are expected to secure a large attendance and a very successful gathering. Bowdon Amateur Horticultural Club, — The spring mtetnig was held on Friday evening, the 2Slh ult., in the I) >wns Lecture Hall, when twenty-two mtmbers staged a very creditable collection of spring flowers from what are all practically suburban gardens, nothing that has been grown under glass being admitted. Dr. Mules of Gresford and Miss Hopkins, F.R.H.S , of Mere were the judges, and awarded full marks (16) and the certificate of merit to Mrs. and Mi^a Ward for their bpautlful and varied collection. Five other members obtained 11 marks each, This being the third and last meeting of the club's first year, the silver Chilleirge medal was presented to the winners of the highest total number of marks for the year, Mrs? Hill, The Grange Hall, and Mrs. Duggan, The Downs, Altrincham (hon. secretary), being bracktted equal, each having obtained 37 out of a possible 48 marks. Miss Hopkins of Mere afterwards read a short but interesting paper on "Rock Plants," which was well illus- trated by a pretty display of Saxifrages, Aubrietias, Auriculas, &c., set up by this lady, and a dlscus.'-ion followed. Dr. Mules of Gresford kindly brought over a magnificent gathering of St. Brigid Anemones and Mme. de GraaflF Diffodlls, which for size and colour could rarely bo beaten, and proved of much interest to the members. The Henry Eckford Testimonial. The contributions to this fund up to Saturday evening, the 6th inst., are as under : Shgs. ShffS. Previously a c k n o w - Mis3 M. '^Tontagll . . . . 3 led^ed 429:i Mr. Lester C. Jforse Mr. N. F. Barnes .. .. 12.V (Messrs. C. C. Morse Messrs. B:irr and Sons.. 2l" and Co.) 100 Mr. W. A. Bilney .. ..10 Mr. W. W. Osmond .. 1 Mrs. Conn 1 Mr. Wm. Sanderson .. 2 Mr. C. H. Curtis ., .. ,5 Mr. Robert Sy.ler. ham. . 42 ivliss .Tulia Grierson .. 2 Mrs. Mann Thomson .. 10 Mr. C. Ilazel grove. . .. 1 Mr. W. J. Unwin .. .. 2.i Mr. J. Leishman . . . . 1 Carnation Queen Louise.— This is a beautiful white-flowering variety for the early .spring months. The flowers are large, shapely, non-splitting, of the purest white, and very fragrant. — S. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. FORCED CAULIFLOWERS IN SPRING. FORCED vegetables are objected to by many, but each year the numbers decrease, as, with care in cultivation, forced vegetables are equal, indeed, often superior, to those grown in the open. Few vegetables force more readily than the Cauliflower at this season, and those who do not force from start to finish under glass often hasten on the plants at the beginning, and by 80 doing gain considerable time. .For many years I grew my first early Canliflowers from seed sown early in September, and the majority of the plants were under hand-glasses, that is, sheltered during the winter, others being grown In frames and planted out. Having a much greater demand this had to be met, and, strange as it may appear, the September sowing, though still continued, is now our second or third supply. Much better results as regards time are obtained by sowing four months later and grow- ing on rapidly. Years ago we had not such Ciuliflowers as Veiteh's E.\'lra Early Forcing, Snowball, Sutton's First Crop, and Cartel's Defiance Forcing, small early sorts that may be had fit for the table in little more than three months from the date of sowing. It grown under jilass from the start. Much fire-heat is not necessary after the plants are well above the soil. Much better results follow slow forcing and by getting as much warmth from sun-heat as possible. Our fi-ame plants for the May supply are grown in cold frames, and doubtless the quality Is even better than with plants given more warmth. Another point worth observing is that frame-grown Cauliflowers given too much warmth at the start, " bolt," and, of courae, are useless. A few words as to culture and the varieties we find most reliable may not be out of place. As most growers know the most difficult period of I he year is the first three months, and, I may add, Cauliflowers are none too plentiful in April, but as regards this month so much depends upon the variety. I have sown Snowball in January in heat, and grown the plants on from start to finish in pots in a warm frame and had nice little heads in twelve weeks. I do not say this is a profitable way of culture, but this in our case must not be considered — the demand must be met. The introduction of Snowball and similar varieties was a great gain to forcers who rfquire this vegetable as early as possible. Doubtless the best method of culture is to sow In December such varieties as Sutton's First Crop or Veiteh's Early Forcing in a warm frame, prick out when large enough into boxes or pots, and make a warm bed of fresh leaves and manure, the material being got into condition by frequently turning. Place good loam over the soil, and when this is placed in the frame a short time In advance of the planting it will be warm through. Eich plant is lifted with a ball and placed in the frame and kept close for a few days. These plants will give a supply in April, and the produce will be all one can desire. Such sorts as advised above make a small growth, so that a good number can be grown In a limited space, and the frames when the Cauli- flowers are out are useful for Marrows or similar plants. A succession may be secured by sowing seed early in February, or plants from the first sowing may be used. These planted out without bottom- heat form a good succession to the ones noted above, and for this purpose Carter's Defiance Forcing is an excellent variety. It Is a little larger than the others, but a very quick grower. We have found this variety most serviceable when sown early for the first crop in the open. When sown in a cold frame in February, and planted out early in April, good heads are obtained early In .June, so that they will closely follow the frame-plants. We always plant a good number of these small Cauliflowers between the rows of dwarf early Peas; the latter are protected, and this just suits the Cauliflower, the varieties used being of small growth. They are cleared in advance of the Pea crop. Another plan, and a good one also, is to plant out in deep drills on a south border at the foot of a wall. 'These plants when covered for a time turn in fit for use at the end of May. There is no lack of good early varieties, they are reliable for the season named If not coddled too much at the start. Few plants suffer more by crowding in the seed-pan or bed, or excess of heat at the root or otherwise, and I have seen it stated that to avoid this autumn- sown plant are best, but this is not my experience. The small growers, sown say in September, often bolt, whereas sown three or four months later, and grown without a check, they rarely fail. G. Wythes. OBITUARY. CHARLES MOORE. The death is announced of Mr. Charles Moore, for over forty j'ears curator of the Botanical Gvrdens, Sidney, New South Wales, In his eighty-sixth year. While there he enriched the gardens with many introductions of new and rare plants. It was through him that the Kentia Palm was introduced from Lord Howe's Island, and many are the plants associated with his name, a', for instance, Alsophlla Moorei and Kontia Moorei. The thirty-second volume of TiiK Garden tor the half year ending December.'?!, IS.ST, was dedicated to Charles Moore, and his partrait was then published. GARDENING APPOINTMENTS. MR. U. TnKEN, for upwards of eight years head gardener to A. 11. Benson, E'q., Ankerwycke, Wraysbury, Bneks, has been aopoiiued gardener to S. M. Roosevelt, Esq., Roosevelt Hall, Lake Skaneateles, New York State, U.S.A. Mr, F. 0. Bhkwek, the Grange Garden^, Brentwood, and previously three years gardener to R. E. .Tohnston, E^(|., I'erlinps Park, near Harlow, Essex, as gardener to C. G. lieiile, Eiq , Urynlirion, Bontddu, Dolgelly, North Wales. .Mr. R. S. Skabornh, for some lime plant and fruit foreman in the garden of O. F. Moore, Esq., Chardwar, Houston .on. the- Water, Gloucester, and previously at nii'nhoim and Kew, has been appointed gardener to Peter lloiie, E^(i., Luscombe CasLle, Dawliah, South Devon, and look charge on the 17lh Inst. •,* The Yearly Rubscription to TllK QARDKC is: Inlai it, Ci. Cil. ; foreign, Sa. 9d. ^^j^r^- GARDEN I No. 1749.— Vol. LXVII. May 27. 1905. THE PARIS FLOWER SHOW. A N International horticultural exhibi- /\ tion was opened in Paris on / \ Saturday last, and will remain / \ open until the end of this week. A detailed report is given on another page. President Loubet, the Minister of Agriculture, and other members of the Ministry, and Mme. Loubet visited the exhibition on Saturday morning, and were received by M. Viger, president of the society, M. Truffault, and other vice- presidents, M. Abel Chatenay, the general secretary, M. Nomblot, the assistant secre- tary, and other officials. The Eoyal Horti- cultural Society of England was repre- sented by the following gentlemen : Captain G. L. Holford, CLE., Sir Albert Kollit, M.P., Mr. J. Gurney Fowler, Mr. Harry J. Veitch, and the Eev. W. Wilks. The Earl of llchester and Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., whose names were in the official list as members of the deputation, were not present. Medals of the Royal Horticultural Society were awarded by its representatives to the most meritorious exhibits. The Paris International Horticultural Exhibition may be briefly and truthfully described as a garden of flowers. It was held in a large glass-roofed building, partly permanent and partly temporary, in the Cours La Eeine, near the Champs Elys6e, on the north bank of the Seine. Almost without exception the exhibits were arranged in the form of beds and borders, and to all appearances the various plants and flowers formed items in one vast parterre or series of parterres. Immediately inside the entrance gates were groups oi evergreen shrubs, conifers, fruit trees, Ferns, and hardy flowering plants, providing a suit- able approach to the glass houses in which the exhibition proper was held. The first part of the building— of circular shape with glass dome— was devoted to Orchids, and here were gathered together some of the best plants from the collections of French Orchid enthusiasts. This, like the rest of the building, had a ceiling of canvas, and the sides were effectively draped with similar material, while immediately above and behind the plants hung thin, pale yellow cloth, gracefully arranged around mirrors, ' wherein were reflected the brilliant colours of a thousand Orchids. Through banks of ornamental foliage one passed to a large oblong-shaped building, transformed, for the time being, into a garden of beds and borders of formal design, each one filled with some of the finest plants and most brilliant of flowers— a galaxy of rich colouring. Exactly in the centre stood a huge standard Rhododendron, and beneath it in a circular bed were massed multi-coloured Calceolarias. Long beda, brilliant masses of zonal Pelargoniums, Begonias, and Roses, filled the middle portion of this building, and on either side, gently rising to higher ground, were banks of Cannas, Clematises, stove and greenhouse plants in bewildering variety. Interspersed were plots and verges of greenest grass, with here and there groups of towering Palms, giving relief from an almost overpowering display of colour. Passing through this garden of flowers one entered a long corridor, its glass sides hidden beneath groups of Rhododendrons and Azaleas — an introduction, as it wore, to the still more extensive exhibition of these plants beyond. There were banks and beds and borders of them, one mass of flower and greenery, a scene that no pen picture can adequately describe — a scene that needs the brush of an artist faithfully to depict. The Ghent Azaleas in rich yellow, old gold, orange, and almost red, vied with huge- Rhododendrons in greater variety, though loss brilliancy of colour, and together they formed a miniature forest of shrub and flower. On the left as one passed down was a steep slope reaching to the very edge of the swiftly- flowing Seine, a slope that ordinarily serves but to lead to the river, yet now is a bank of flowers, flowers that are easily grown from seed, annuals most of them. There were hundreds of them here, from the brilliant Poppies and Marigolds to the Toadflaxes and Rock Cress, modest in growth and colouring, chiefly those flowers that may be seen to perfection in what we call an old-fashioned English garden. In other parts of the build- ing, all unobtrusively yet efl'ectively draped with the lightest of canvas, were numerous beds and borders — masses of brilliant colour, each an item to be admired, yet part of one harmonious design. There were Japanese Irises, Cannas, Carnations, Begonias, Hydrangeas (blue and pink), Pasonies, and many more in profusion, yet the grass edges to the beds, the bits of lawn here and there, and the carefully - interposed groups of greenery prevented any approach to garish colouring. The building given up to the exposition of floral decoration as practised by the Parisiaa was filled with the choicest productions of the skilled worker. There were huge vases ■ind baskets of Lilac, Hj'drangeas, Roses, and Lilies, most of them white ; fireplaces filled with the gorgeously-coloured Azaleas ; tables that were graced with the choicest Orchids, and all arranged so deftly and with so light a touch that despite the wealth and richness of the material there was no suspicion of its having been too freely used. Such in brief is this International flower show, a. gathering of plants and flowers from various countries, though chiefly from France, each exhibit admirable and beautiful in itself, but so charmingly associated the one with the other as to produce an even more admirable whole. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. " Poltanthus-Pbimroses." We object to this name for what are, after all, only PolyanthuseB, but that is all we have to write against the flowers which we have received from Mrs. Malcomson, Springfield, Portlaw, County Waterford. The flowers were very fine, in colouring, free, and in all ways represented a beautiful group. They were raised from seed, and chiefly from hybrids of Wilson's Blues. Th© Bowers are on quite tall stems, some as much as 13| inches in length. Hardy Himalayan Rhododendrons. Mr. Reuthe sends from his hardy plant nursery, Keston, Kent, flowers of several Himalayan Rhododendrons. The flowers were from plants grown out of doors, the only protection given being a slight covering to the flowers during frosty weather. Among the kinds sent were the well-known R. arboreum and its white form, album, R. Thomsoni, R. eximeum, R. Aucklandi, and R. A. rubrum. Schizanthus Flowers. Mr. Paxton sends from The Gardens, Bf^anohea Park, Cowlinge, Newmarket, flowers of Sohizm- thus, which show an interesting and beautiful variety of colours, from white to the deepest purple. The seed was sown on August 1 last, and the seedlings were potted off as early aa possible into 3-inch pots. About the end o£ VA2 THE GARDEN [May 27, 1905. November they were transferred to 4j-inch pots. When the pots begin to get full of roots soot valer is given twice a week, and when the flower-buds show Bentlej's Carnation !M-inure is applied also, and sheep manure and soot in liquid form at intervals. The plants are grown on a shelf in the cool greenhouse all the winter with plenty of light. Hybrid Pri:\iroses and Polyanthuses. Mr. Alva J. Hall, florist, 12, Parliament Street, Harrogate, sends a bunch of each of his strain of hybrid Primroses and Polyanthuses, from seed grown on a northern border in a cold, stiff, and clayey soil. In this position, our correspondent writes, the plants thrive marvellously, and the flowers have been even finer than those sent. Riin, cold, and sparrows have rather spoilt them, but if theseare the poorest of them, very beautiful must be those in the pink of condition. The flowers were of excellent colours, strong, pure, and distinct, and we gather from this that the strain must be unusually effective in the garden. SOLANUM AVICULARE. It is a pleasure to receive flowers of this beau- tiful and uncommon Solanum from Mr. F. W. Rich, The Gardens, Elfordleigh, Plvmpton, South Devon. The flower is about "2 inches across, and of a beautiful blue colour, reminding one of those of S. Wendlandi. This Solanum is quite hardy in various parts of Cornwall, where in some places plants are to be seen over 4 feet through. Our correspondent writes : " I am planting out a few in the open air, and should they prove hardy here they will make a valuable addition to our gardens, as bluie-flowered shrubs are always welc ime. The plants from which the flowers sent were picked have been growing in a cold Peach house all the winter, and have been frozen hard on two occasions." Persian CYCLAME^J Flowers trom the Open Ground. An interesting contribution to our table comes from Mrs. L. de L. Simonds, Audley's Wood, Basingstoke, consisting of exceptionally fine flowers of a white Persian Cyclamen, gathered from plants in the open garden, with the following note : " I think it may interest you to see some flowers of giant Cyclamen from plants which have been out for two winters. We planted them out in the late spring of 190.3 after they had flowered in the greenhouse, and they have had no pro- tection except a few ashes over the crowns. They are under a wall facing south-south-east." Fortin's Lilt or the Valley. From The Gardens, Parkfield, Hallow, Worces- ter, Mr. S. Hurlstone sends a splendid lot of blooms of Fortin's Lily of the Valley, some of the finest we have ever received. Mr. Hurlstone writes: "The plants are growing in a border facing east in stiff soil. Each year we take up a patch as required for forcing, and plant the smaller crowns again. I have never seen finer crowns than they make. Each spring we place an old frame over some, so as to have them a few -days earlier. At the present time the border is a mass of bloom-spikes, some fully open, others in bud. These plants force capitally, and every- one remarks on the fine spikes and bells." Tulips from Ireland. From Ard Cairn Nurseries, Cork, Mr. W. B. Hartland sends flowers of the beautiful Tulip Fawn. The petals are flushed with rose upon a white ground, and a fawn or buff tint pervades the base of the flower. Golden Spire is a hand- some Tulip, a long deep flower, rich yellow, tinged with red on the margins. The scented Didieri alba is always welcome, and Illuminator is very bright. It is yellow, heavily marked ■with bright red, one that would be showy in the -inch. Grow for a time in an intermediate house. Pot on seedling Gloxinias, Begonias, and Streptocarpus. Encourage growth in a warm, moist house. As space becomes available in the pits and frames due to the removal of the bedding plants pot and transfer various plants into them from the greenhouse. Hoyal Botanic Gardens, Kcw. A. Osborn. KITCHEN GARDEN. French Beans. — With the sudden changes of tem- perature we have experienced recently it becnmes doubt- ful if former sowings of these tender vegetables will be worth anything. All vegetables yield best results when they receive no check in growth from the day they appear above the soil till they are ready for use. French Beans, being of a tender nature, seldom overcome a check ; they may grow, but are never satisfactory. Should they assume a starved and unhealthy appearance, the best course is to pull them out, fork over the ground, and sow again. Whether this course is necessary or not, a good sowing should now be made on a plot of rich ground with exposure to sunshine, in which they revel. Let the drills be from 2 inches to 3 inches deep, and 2 feet apart. Ne Plus Ultra and Canadian Wonder are splendid summer varieties. Cauliflower.— Close attention must now be paid to young Cauliflower plants. Early plantations are apt to button, and, where this has taken place, they must be immediately replaced with young plants pricked out some time ago. If these are lifted with good balls of soil adhering to their roots and allowed suflicient water after planting, little or no check will be sustained. More seed should also be sown of Veitch's Autumn Giant. I make three sowings of this excellent Cauliflower every season, and find it a good way of prolonging the supply. The variety just mentioned is wonderfully free from clubbing, and is grown here on ground well limed for Potatoes the previous year. Under these conditions no trace of club- bing appears, and the crops are good. BRUSSELS Sprouts.— Plants from sowings made some time ago should now be ready for planting on permanent quarters. No vegetable responds more quickly to good cultivation than Brussels Sprouts, and none gives less return if the ground is poor. This must be considered when planting. If on good ground they should be from 2i feet to 3 feet from row to row, and from IS inches to 2 feet from plant to plant. Overcrowding is more injurious to Brussels Sprouts than any other vegetable. They require ample light and air when commencing to sprout, or the consequent size and quality will be poor. On poor ground they can be planted closer together. Lettuces.— Make a sowing of Lettuces every fortnight or so, and on ground where they may remain permanently, as transplantation is not desirable now. To prevent their becoming drawn and weakly, keep them free from weeds. Stir the surface of the ground occasionally with the Dutch hoe, and watering must not be neglected during dry weather. Keep them growing quickly, or they will be tough and insipid. Broad Beans.— Another sowing of the Green Windsor variety should be made, as it is a good cropper at all seasons, and especially during autumn. Allow them plenty of room ; 3 feet or 4 feet between the rows is not too much. This arrangement allows space for earthing up to keep them in an upright position during windy weather. Herbs. — Those of the annual class should now be sown ; Chervil, Borage, Sweet Basil, &c. More reliance can be placed in herbs sown now than those started at an earlier date. Sow in beds, make the mould fine, and do not bury the seed too deeply. Protect from birds by covering the beds with nets. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Eirkcxuibriijht. FRUIT GARDEN. Figs.— When the crop has been cleared from the earliest trees in pots they should be kept cool preparatory to being plunged in ashes outdoors. Give them plenty of water at the roots, and syringe the foliage morning and afternoon to keep them free from red spider. Succession trees which are swelling their fruit will require liberal supplies of water, especially if they are well established and growing in shallow restricted borders. Plenty of stimulants may be given to trees carrying heavy crops. The borders must be given a good surface dressing of well- fermented horse manure. Stop the shoots at the fourth or fifth leaf. Remove weakly shoots and suckers, unless the base of the tree is becoming bare, when a few of the best suckers may be laid in. If the trees are expected to produce a second crop they should be kept clean. Should red spider appear sponge the leaves with a weak solution of soft soap and sulphur. Outdoor trees are now growing, and some kind of covering should be at hand in case of frost. Disbud all surplus growths before they become too large, leaving only suflicient to furnish the tree with healthy fruit-bearing wood, so that sun and air can have free play among the branches. Up to date the rainfall here for this month has been practically nil, so that we have had recourse to watering trees on walls, also newly- planted trees in the open. Cucumbers. — At this time of year Cucumbers are growing and fruiting rapidly. Unless they are properly attended to in the matter of thinning the growths, top- dressing, and feeding, the plants will be quickly exhausted. 322 THE GAEDEN. [May 27, 1905 If these little details are not seen to in time, success in thi3 direction cinnot be attained. Dj not allow the plants to carry more fruits than are required for immediate use. They should also be kept clean. Red spider is a persistent enemy of the Ciicu-nber, very destructive, and hard to dislodge when fairly established. IE preventive measures are taken while the plants are young much trouble will be saved. An occasional syringing with aoft-soapy water with a little sulphur added will keep it at bay. Top- dress frequently with loam and horso manure in equal proporaons. Tomatoes.— Plants in pots with four or five heads of flower set should be stopped. This will be found quite sufficient for them to carry if the quality of the fiuit is to be of the besf. If the pots can be placed on a mixture of loam and horse manure the roots will quickly enter it and derive much benefit. The beginning of June is a good time to sow seeds for late autumn supply. This is a valuable and inexpensive crop, as the plants may be grown outdoors till there is danger of early frosts, when they must be brought indoors. They will then have set several trasses of bloum, and will give a supply till the end of the year. E. Hakriss. Fruit Dspartment, Royal Gardens^ Windsor. ORCHIDS. Cymbidiums.— C. eburneum.C. lowianura, C.hookerianum, C. giganteum, C. tracyanum, and the recently-introduced new species C. Sanderi and C. Sanderje, also the distinct hybrids C. Lowio-eburneum and C. eburneo-lowianum, are all flrst-class Orchids, and well deserve the best position in the coolest and shadiest part of the intermediate house, where they may remain the whole year round. Any of these plants that have become pot-bound may be repotted at the present time. In some collections C. lowianum and its variety concolor are now in bloom, but it should be repotted, if necessary, soon after the spikes are cut. Cymbidiums, being strong-rooting plants, require rather larger pots than for most Orchids ; therefore give them sufficient room to suffice for several seasons' growth. The pots should be about half tilled with crocks for drainage, the compost consisting of equal parts of yellow turfy loam, rough fibrous peat, and chopped sphagnum, and in addition a small quantity of leaf-soil, coarse silver sand, and flnely-broken crocks or bricks. Previous to potting well mix the soil, Ac, together, and see that the crocks, (fee, are well intermixed with the compost. Pot the plants moderately firm, and, instead of elevating them above the rim of the pot, keep the soil at least half an inch below it. This will ensure sutticient space to water the plants each time they become dry, for when rooted these Cymbidiums require abundant supplies of water all through the grow- ing season. After root disturbance arrange the plants in their proper places, give them extra shade, and very moderate supplies of water should be afforded until each plant has become re-established, after which time the amount of water and light should be gradually increased. During the growing season the atmosphere around these plants should be moist ; they do not appreciate dryness to any extent either at the root or in the air, as it will cause 1 ->3s of foliage and favour the increase of insect pests. The above remarks are also applicable to such species as C. longifolia, C. chlorantha, C. affine, C. Mastersii, C. ensi- folia, C. elegans, C. madidum, &c. C. devonianum pro- duces its pendulous racemes from the base of the young growths ; therefore it is best suspended either in baskets or shallow pans. C. tigrinura is a pretty dwarf-growing species, but seldom seen in a flourishing condition. It succeeds best at the warmest end of the cool house. The same temperature will also suit C. devonianum. 8uch Orchids as Masdevallia tovarensis, Lslia harpo- phylla, L. pumila and its several varieties, Miltonia vexillaria, all Masdevallias of the Chimrera section, and a few Odontoglossums, as 0. nfcvium, 0. blandum, 0. Kramerii, &c., that have wintered in the intermediate house, may now be safely removed to the cool house for the summer months. Plants of 0 iontoglitssum grande are now commencing to grow, and as they have been kept quite dry for some consider- able time the soil has become impoverished, therefore no time should be lost in providing them with fresh rooting material. They will grow and root freely in equal parts of peat, leaf-soil, and moss, surfacing the compost with chopped sphagnum, filling up to the rim of the pot. Place ihe plants in the intermediate house, and afford water with great care until the growths are well advanced. If too much water is given in the early stages of growth, the stout, fleshy roots are very liable to turn black and decay, aod do not recommence to form fresh roots so readily as a.i some of the smiUer-rooting species. As the yuung breaks push up and the leaves expand, see that no water lodges in the centre of the growths, as they are easily rotted if it is allowed to remain there. Biir/ord Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. the excellent notes which accompany it, will do something towards bringing thia intereating class into favour again. A very good article is ** The Woodland Garden." How welcome are the following words : *' Oar native evergreens — e.g.y Holly, B^x, and Yew — how much more beautiful and effective groups they make than the weedy trees which usually have possession. The common evergreen Birberry from North America is a beautiful covert shrub, with its foliage all through the winter and its fragrant and effective blooms in spring, but it should be held together in natural masses, and close enough to keep the ground clear. The too common way of having a lot of coarse L^u^els, and clipping them down to one level, is stupid and ugly, because there are so many things that give a fine undergrowth without clipping. Take, for example, the large Partridge- berry (Gaultheria Shallon), of North America, as it may be seen at Coolhurst — what an excellent undergrowth it makes, and yet how little grown" (page 114). We wish Mr. Robinson would avoid as much as possible the use of one English name for two different plants. Ooe alwa3's associates the Trumpet flower with Bignonia, but in this number it is applied to the IncarviUeas, whichare described (page 132) as " the perennial Trumpet flowers.'* We have grown accustomed to the word Incar- villea, and prefer its popular use until some dis- tinct and easily understood English name can be substituted. Mr. O'Brien's description of the Nerines is valuable, but we have only mentioned a few of the many excellent things in this beauti- ful monthly magazine. BOOKS. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. Flora and Sylva for May is, as usual, replete with interesting articles and notes, and the two coloured plates are Nerine Bowderi, from a drawing by the well-known artist H. G. Moon, and Pelargonium Lady Mary Fox, which is quite reminiscent of the days long ago when the scented- leaved Pelargoniums, of which this is one of the varieties, were in the heyday of their popularity. Perhaps this beautiful coloured illustration, and RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and AaavrevB.—The Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who de^re assistance, no matter what the branch of gardening may he, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of THE Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When m^re than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Legal Points. — We are prepared to answer questions of laiu which have anything to do with the subject oj gardening and forestry. The questions should be as clear and explicit as possible, so that there can be 7lo doubt as to the point of the question. Answers loill be found in a separate cohtmn headed ^^ Legal Points." Blight in Melon House (G. C. D.). — We are sorry to say we cannot tell you how to prevent an attack of blight on Melons. Directly a leaf or two is formed the grower must examine the leaves once or twice a week for the appear- ance of the green fly, and if discovered they must be removed by a sponge dipped in tepid soap and water. Soap water will for a time make the flies disinclined to infest the leaves again. This should be persevered in until the plant has g lined strength and attained the height of 7 inches or 8 inches, when no further attack need be feared for some time, provided that the grower gives heed to careful ventilation, water- ing, and syringing the plants copiously in warm weather. Green and black By are the greatest enemies of the Melon, but sometimes it is also attacked by red spider and thrip. Should it unfortunately happen that any of these pests have laid hold of the plants in strong force, then resort must be had to fumigation by the XL All insecticides. Directions are given how to use these, but caution must be exercised against using them too strong, as the Melon is easily injured in this way. Better fumigate twice with a weak solution than once with that which is too strong. Peach Leaves Damaged (.4. ))'. Rcdph). — You say that you sprayed the trees before the buds opened and again since, and we believe it is in doing the latter that you have made the mis- take. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture when the buds show the very first indication of swelling does good, as it destroys the disease spores. Two sprayings at intervals of ten days ought to suffice if well done. The leaf-buds should not be sprayed after they begin to expand, or the foliage will be destroyed or injured. The leaves sent have every appearance ot having been scorched, and we think some of the mixture must have come into contact with them. The only thing we can advise is that you should keep the tree well watered and syringed, and shaded from the sun. P.EJNIES Diseased (.1/rs. Firth). — I am sorry to say your Piemies are attacked by a fungus, the drooping disease of Paeonies (Botrytis paionife), a very destructive pest. Spraying with diluted Bordeaux mixture, or loz. of sulphide of potas- sium dissolved in 2i gallons of water, when the disease first makes its appearance, is useful. Now the only thing to be done is to cut off the affected leaves and burn them, and then spray the plants with one of the above-mentioned mixtures. The surface soil should be removed, and fresh soil with a good admixture of lime put in its place. Green manure used as a dressing is likely to encourage the disease, as it forms a suitable material for the growth of this fungus, which unfortunately appears in more than one form, another form being that of small black masses known as Sclerotia, which may be found in the tissues of the plant, and when they decay the Sclerotia may be found in the soil. (See reply to " H. G. R.")-G. S S. Tulip Leaves Diseased (H. G. B.). — The Tulip leaves that you forwarded are attacked by the Tulip mould (Sclerotinia parasitica), a very destructive fungus, and one which exists in two perfectly different forms. Until this was recog- nised it consequently bore two different names. The form in which it is at present attacking your Talips is known as Botrytis ; later on small Lentil-shaped black bodies will appear in the bulbs. These are known as Sclerotia, from which the generic name of the fungus is taken. These may come in contact with the soil and contaminate other bulbs which may be planted in it. As soon as a bulb appears to be infested with this fungus it should be taken up and burnt ; there is no remedy known at present. Other species belonging to the same genus attack Snowdrops, Onions, Lilies, and various herbaceous plants. (See reply to "Mrs. Pirth.")— G. S. S. Insect Pests in Chrysanthemum Soil {E. S ). The little white creatures in your Chrysanthe- mum pots are Lipura ambulans. I am afraid that they have not any English name ; they are very nearly allied to the Springtails or PoduridiB, but they are not provided with any jumping apparatus. It is dillicult to know what to suggest in the way of insecticides, as you do not want to check the growth of your plants or to injure them in any way. Whatever is used you must be certain that the soil is soaked with it right down to the bottom of the pots, to ensure which it would be best to stand them in a bucket of the insecticide for two or three hours. A strong solution of nitrate of soda, or common salt, or extract of quassia would probably kill them. You will know best which would be least likely to injure your plants. To make lime water add half a pound of freshly-burnt lime to a gallon of water ; stir it well now and again until the water will not dissolve any more. If all is dissolved add more lime, then let it stand until quite clear, and pour off the clear portion for use.— G. S. S. May 27, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 323 Injury to Vine Shoots {Novice, Bangor). — We think that eome local reaaon must be the cauae of the injury to your Vine shoots, aa similar injury has frequently been caused by the young and tender shoots being too close to the glass on cold nights, or it may result from the hot gleams of morning sun shining on the shoots whilst they are wet with condensed moisture before air has been given in the morning. In any case, we think the injury is due to some local cauae, and not to any constitutional disease, and hope as the shoots get firmer the Vines will suffer no further injury. t Seeds for India {J. B.). — You could hardly err in sending the following, and it is quite possible, in the hill district to which you refer, the majority will be a success : St. Brigid Anemone, Inoarvillea Delavayi, Primula rosea, P. cashmiriana, P. denticulata, P. jiponica, Corydalis thalictrifolia. Coreopsis grandiflora, Chionodoxa Lucilise, C. sardensis, Heuchera, Anemone sylvestris, A. alpina, Hyacinthus candicans, i?apaver alpinum in variety, P. orientale, any species of Meconopsis, including M. integrifolia, now flowering in England for the first time, Nicotiana aiSnis, N. suaveolens, N. Sanderse, Lupinus arboreus. Lobelia cardinalia, any of the hybrid Columbines, as also Cornflower, Chrysanthemum segetum grandiflorum, 4.C. Anemone blanda is the Grecian Windflower, which in this country commences flowering in February ; the Apennine Windflower is much later and much smaller too. If you particularly wish for seeds of the former your better plan will be to place an order with some good firm for what you require. If you cannot obtain seeds you will have no diiBculty in obtaining the tubers in early autumn from any of the hardy plant dealers. These tubers would flower early in 1906, and in that year you could obtain seeds yourself. It is now rather late to apply the lawn sand ; you might use it sparingly. We have no knowledge of the kind mentioned. Vine Shoots Failing {Constant Reader, Yeovil). — Your experience has been unfortunate. On the face of it, aa per your letter, one would be inclined to say that the cause of failure was invested with some considerable mystery, the disease attacking one variety one year, another the next year, and so on. We can find no disease or insects on the shoots. We have experienced the same result on a limited scale, but with late varieties of Grapes only, such as Alicante, Lady Downe's, Gros Colmar, and Alnwick Seedling, and occasionally in Muscats ; but Black Hamburgh never. In our case the matter waa never very serious, as there were usually a fair proportion of good shoots left on the Vine to secure a crop, and we hope it is so with our correspondent. We have always attri- buted the cause to the previous year's growths being imperfectly ripened. In this case we have found that the canes in spring often break irregularly, a few strong ones at wids intervals only. These rush strongly away, depriving the more dormant and later buds of their proper support, in consequence of which the tissues at the base of the shoots wither and dry, and are unable afterwards to absorb the necessary nourish- ment from the Vine and consequently die. That has been the reason for similar failures in our experience. Occasionally the Vine mite is responsible. This works stealthily. We have seen shoots burrowed through at the base and killed in this way. Have a look at night with a bright lantern. Peach Shoots Shrivelling {A. L.). — Our correspondent, we think, is fortunate in having secured good crops of Peaches from his trees for nine years under the conditions he describes. We think the cause of the shrivelling of the fruit is due to debility and the want of vigorous root action, and fear that little can be done to improve matters before the autumn. There is no doubt that some roots have penetrated into the soil of the inside border, and for a time derived sustenance from it, but now that sustenance is exhausted. Peach trees soon respond to generous treatment, and we would advise our correspondent to clear away the inside border for a width at least of 4 feet, and fill it up again with the best loam soil (with some lime rubble intermixed) he can find after the drainage is put right. Serve the outside border in the same way two years afterwards, the trees will then be stronger and more fruitful than ever. Care must be taken to preserve all the healthy roots, but long fibreless ones must be cut well back. Why the Nectarines have not suffered in the same way ia posaibly due to some local cauae, perhaps they have not carried quite such heavy crops for so long a time, or that portion of the border may be in some way better drained. In any case the new border will benefit the Nectarines as much as the Peaches, and next year's crop will not suffer if the work is taken in hand in good time, say early in October, or as soon as the majority of the leaves have fallen. Fruit Drying (H.C). — The art of drying or evaporating fruit in this country has yet been practised on a limited scale. Experiments were carried out some few years ago in the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society at Chiswick, and the results shown inLondon in the autumn of 1892. The quality of this dried fruit was considered so excellent that a silver-gilt medal was awarded to the owner of the drying machine used. In the autumn of 1902, Mr. Udale, Instructor in Horti- culture to the Worcestershire County Council (headquarters Droitwich), exhibited a fine collec- tion of dried fruits and vegetables at one of the meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society. As regards the taste of the Apples, it was remarked by many that it was as full of fruit acid and flavour as before the evaporation took place, and much to be preferred to the artificially sweetened dried fruit imported. The smallest drying machine we have heard of costs from £11 to £12, and may be had from Messrs. Lumley and Co., the Minories, London, E. The method also answers well for Pears, Plums, and Cherries. Should our correspondent care to experiment in a small way on his own account by drying in trays in an oven, or by the application of heat in some other form, we may say that for Apples a temperature of 175" to 180° is neceasary, and maintained for three hours, and Plums 250" for from eight to ten hours. Auriculas (Constance MacLeod). — As the plants are now in their third season, you will do well to lift them and divide and replant without delay. Whether you do it now or late in August matters but little from one point of view, viz., that there will be a loss of leafage at any time. By doing the work at this time, however, you will be working in harmony with the new issue of roots for the year, and the plants so divided will have the best opportunity of building up flowering crowns for 1906. As you are remaking the bed, we certainly regard the time opportune for dividing the plants, and it is quite possible you will be able to fill a bed with the better sorts. The point of a sharp knife inserted here and there will, with pulling, be all that is requi- site for successful division of the plants. Replant the divisions well up to the leaves and in such a way that the lowermost leaves eventually rest on the surface - soil. In planting hold the lowest leaves up with the left hand in such a way that the stem may be inserted deeply enough. This is especially important, because of the way these and allied subjects root from the upper portion of the stem. If well planted the bed may remain undisturbed for three years, mulching with loam, old manure, and a little bone-meal in the spring of the last year of uhe three. Tomato Plant {E. E. iS.).— The greatest enemy of the Tomato plant ia the Potato disease fungus Perinospora infestans, and we think your plant is suffering from an attack of this. If the plant is only slightly affected we would syringe it over with clear water, and then spray it thickly all over, under and over the leaves and atoms as well, with Bordeaux mixture, allowing this to remain for two days, when it may be syringed off. This will kill the fungus in the initial stage ; but if the disease has taken deep hold of the plant in stem and leaf nothing can cure it. We would advise its being pulled up by the roots at once and thrown away before it has had time to communicate the disease to the other plants. St Brigid Anemone {Constance MacLeod). — These things are better planted during the dormant season, and as the growing season for this Anemone is now well advanced you will secure better tubers by attending closely to their wants — i e., watering and the like — until the plants go to rest; then at any time you could transfer them to permanent positions. Do not fear to treat the young plants quite liberally, and endeavour to keep them green as long as possible A deep loamy soil, with a small proportion of sand, suits these things quite well, or a soil in which there is much vegetable matter. Heavy and tenacious clay soils over a similar subsoil are not so well suited to the plants. Much sand or grit, leaf-soil, or old Mushroom bed manure should be added freely to lighten the soil. If you desire to form patches or clumps, do it in this way. First, well and deeply prepare the soil by digging and manuring, and, finally, take out about -iinches of the surface portion of the soil, roughly level the depre3sion thus formed, scatter in sand freely, place in your tubers at 6 inches apart, and cover. Salvia splendens (IF. P.). — Few plants are more useful for the conservatory during autumn and winter than this. Plants propagated from cuttings in spring make good plants by autumn. It is not too late to take them, but you must do it at once. You must get strong cuttings if you mean to have good plants by the autumn. Some- times it happens that the old plants are not in the best condition, bjit the cuttings soon grow, and you could take the tops from them and root them again if necessary 'f However, if your plant is in good health it will not be neceasary to do this. Aa soon as the cuttings are well rooted and are growing freely you might plant them out of doors in good soil in some position sheltered from strong wind. Leave them there all the summer, and attend to them well in the way of watering, stopping, &c. The plants should be lifted the second week in September, and be potted in 12-inch pots. A fortnight before lifting them cut round the roots with a spade, so that the check of removal may be gradual. After potting, place them in the shade for a week or ten days until they have become established in the pots. Then bring them in your greenhouse to flower. After taking the cuttings from the old plants cut the shoots of these back to within say four buds of the base, and repot if you think it necessary. When it has started to grow well you could keep it out of doors during the summer, and bring it in the greenhouse in the autumn. They will need plenty of water during summer, especially those in pots. Plants tor Spring Flowering {E. T. H.). — The following are all good spring flowering plants, besides being perfectly hardy and true perennials, i.e., lasting and increasing with years. Arabia albida plena, double white flowers, S inches high, a really fine plant. Aubrietias in variety, such as Dr. Mules, violet, W. A. Ingram, rose-pink, Prichard's Al blue-lilac, Deltoidea grandiflora, lilac, &c. Primula denticulata, P. rosea, and P. cashmiriana, all may be raised from seeds. Hepaticas, in blue, white, lilac, pink, &c. Sixafraga Rhei, pink flowers, S. Guildford Sfcedling, crimson, S.^JVallacei, white, plants of these are very cheap. Yellow Alyssum is easily raised from seeds. These are a few of the more showy low-growing tufted plants. All are perfectly hardy, and will grow freely ia any common garden soil. 324 THE GARDEN. [May 27, 1905. The Sikglb Violet (B.)-— The illustration : labourer or two, and at once prepare a quarter of l Golden Feather, Gypsophila, Mimulus, Nastur- conveva an excellent idea of the greatly in- the garden in an open part for the crops for ! tium, dwarf and tall, in various colours ; Nicotiana creased size and vigour which have been intro- autumn, winter, and spring. The ground should affinis, the sweet-scented Tobacco Plant ; bweet duced of late years into the single Violets. The be dug a good spade's depth, and a light dressing Rocket, Sweet bultaii, Venus s Looking Glass, French have been the pioneers in this work, as of manure added. The following seeds should be Virginian Stock, and Zinnia elegans. These thev have been in many other aspects of horti- sown without delay : Peas, French Beans, Scarlet ought to have been sown a month ago, but there cultural improvements. It is to them we are , Runners, Marrows, CauliSowers, Cabbage, Let- ! is still a chance they may do well, and we think indebted for the variety Princess of Wales (which tuce. Radishes, Mustard and Cress, Leeks, the chance is worth risking, as the seeds cost but is the one illustrated), and in our opinion this Beetroot, Turnips, Spinach, Brussels Sprouts, ^ little. The following Bower seeds should be sown varietv with its companion Princess Beatrice, Broccoli, Savoys, and Cottagers' or Scotch Kale. ] now to flower next spring and summer :\\ all- takes pride of place among all the single blues. Regarding the old Asparagus bed, the best thing flowers. Forget-me-not, Daisies, Pansies, Violas, The former was first exhibited at one of the to do will be to have it well cleared of weeds Royal Horticultural Society's meetings some years first, and then find out how many roots are ago simultaneously by Messrs. Cannell and Mr. missing, planting two seeds in each vacant place, OwenThomas, when it was honoured by the floral forking up the land a few inches deep before committee with an award of merit or a first-class certificate — we forget which. Others of the same type have since emanated from France, and America, not to be behind, soon tried to eclipse the efforts of France in this direction by the production of a variety named Philadelphia. No English hybridist, so far as we know, has given any serious thought to the improvement of the Violet. This is to be re- gretted, as we think there is still considerable room for improve- ment, especially in the direction of infusing the lovelier tints of the lavender -blues and the delicate and exquisitely sweet scent of the old Neapolitan into the more robust constitution of these large single ones. To some lovers of flowers — and among the truest and most devoted they are — this inordinate expansion of size in the Violet, as in other flowers and fruit, is a subject of keen regret, as, instead of enhancing the attractions and sweetness of flowers, and especially the Violet, this great infusion of size, often at the expense of quality, tends to vulgarity. The Violet of late years has become a valuable asset in commercial horticulture, whether in the growth of the plant or the flowers for sale, and, as the public appetite for some- thing sensational and large is insatiable, this must be produced at all cost. There is no doubt that the advent of the large, strong-growing Violet has enor- mously increased the growth of the plant in England of late years, as it has also increased its distribution among the poor of our towns, and to this extent at least its introduction has been a blessing. The culture of the Violet has lately been fully treated of in The Garden. We will only add here that now is a good time to take up the old plants, dividing them into slips, each slip having a few roots to it, planting the same '2 feet apart (each way) in well-manured and trenched land having an eastern aspect if possible, and a wall or shrubbery behind for partial shade and shelter. Rose Shoots Damaged by Insects (Rosarian We believe the pest that has been at your Roses is one of the numerous Rose sawflies. Dust the shoots and foliage with Hellebore powder. Go over the plants very carefully and sprinkle the powder on every part. You will find a common pepper-box useful for this purpose. You should also go out at night with a lantern. Place a white cloth beneath the plant, which should be given a sharp shake. The little beetle-like insects will immediately drop off, and you can destroy them. A Neglected Garden in Dorsetshire (il/. A. G. Z>.).— Kitchen garden : The best thing to do first will be to engage an intelligent garden violet princess of wales. sowing the seed. A well-furnished bed should have roots 2 feet apart all over it. It is now late to sow flower seeds in the hope of having a good return of flowers this summer and autumn, yet in the warm climate of Dorset, with diligent cultural attention, the following plants should give good results : Mignonette, Sweet Peas, Shirley and other Poppies, Stocks, Asters, Mari- golds, Sunflowers, Clarkia, CoUinsia, Godetia, Primroses, Oxlips, Cowslips, Polyanthus, Aqui- legias. Antirrhinums, Arabis, Michaelmas Daisies, Aubrietia purpurea, Canterbury Bells, Carna- tions, Cerastium tomentosa for edging, Del- phiniums, Sweet Williams, Fox- glove, Gaillardia, Honesty, Lupins, and Sweet Scabious. These should be sown without delay, and as soon as the young seedlings are large enough to handle they should be trans- planted into rows 1 foot apart, allowing 6 inches between plant and plant in the row. In the course of the summer these will make good strong plants, and when the autumn comes (early in October) they should be trans- ferred into the permanent borders, where they will give a beautiful display of flowers next spring and summer, supplemented, no doubt, by many hardy herbaceous plants, which are not so easy to raise from seed. As to the further arrangement and planting of your garden, nothing much can be done before the autumn, excepting, of course, heavy ground work, such as making walks and digging the land, cfco. No doubt you will have an idea how you would like your garden arranged and planted, and if you will indicate this and give us a rough plan of the garden, with the permanent objects at present marked on, we will have pleasure in helping you further. ^ Herbs and Salads (S.). — Chervil is used for flavouring raw salads as described presently. Rampion root is eaten as salad. Purslane, a kind of Portulacca, is eaten as a green vegetable, best chopped and stewed in stock. Sweet Basil is used like Thyme, Savoury, Marjoram, and Penny-royal, as a sweet herb for flavouring stews and sauces. Horehound is infused, fresh or dry, and used as a tea for coughs. Dandelion and Chicory are blanched and eaten as raw salads. The root of Skirret is boiled and eaten like Salsafy. No salad made of the usual raw materials, namely. Lettuce, Endive, or blanched Chicory is better than the plain French kind. The Lettuce, if clean, is best not washed, but if it has to be washed it should be carefully dried, and cut in large pieces or torn apart. The best seasoning herbs are Tarragon and Chervil, the tender green leaves being chopped quite small, like a fine mince. Onions or Chives, also minced, are a good addition. Leaves of Burnet are used in the same way, and give a Cucumber flavour. The dressing is one part mild wine vinegar to three parts best salad oil — a thing not always to be had good in England. An excellent winter salad may be made of boiled Potato and Beetroot in slices, with Celery cut in inch lengths, and the same minced herbs, excepting the Tarragon, which is not then in season. But Chervil, of which successional sowings may be had all the year, has nearly the same flavour. A saltspoonful of Celery salt and the same of pounded sugar is a desirable addition to the dressing. May 27, 1905.] THE GAllDEN. vn. Names of Plants.— ^fj-.s-. Bimwn —The specimen you 'sen. I IS Piptanthus nepaleiisis. Yuu can increase it by means of cuttings of half-ripe wood placed in sandy soil in , a close but not very warm case in July, or, better siill, you [•can BOW seeds as soon as ripe. As a rule seeds set fieely l^aud ripen about the end of summer. These should be sown in sandy soil, and be transplanted annually until 'placed in permanent positions. In cold districts it should be planted against a wall. A'. J. P. JA— The Thorn is Crata-^iis mollis. The Rhododendron is a hybrid of which K, arbureum is evidently one of the parents, the other parent is probably some garden hybrid. It is doubtful ■whether It is named ; there are many such unnamed in Cornish gardens. W. GUl.—l, Probably Cistus populi- ifulius, cannot be sure without flowers ; 2, Cratasgus pitmatiflda; 3, Yibu-nnm Lantana (Wayfaring Tree); ^.E'reaguuslongipes ; 5, Phyllanthusnivosus ; G, .Tasrainum Sambac flore-pleno. Joseph. —Acer piatanoides. •G. B.— -The Anemone is A. coronaria, and the Orchis is 0. mascnla. G^rcca — 1, Alyssum saxatile; 2. Ranunculus amplexicaulis. Col. C— Prunu^ (Cerasus) Charaa?cerasus uginal (Seine), (gardener, Jlr. J. Page), obtained a large gold medal and the silver- gilt Flora medal of the Kjyal Horticultural Society. Fourteen of these plants were arranged as a gruup on a gently sloping liank, suitable greenery hiding the suil, and they were most effective. Must of the planis were quite 3 feet through. The Crotona shown by MM, Moser et ttis were finely coloured and well-developed plants in O-inch and 7-inch pots. These formed an undergrowth to large standard Rhododendrons. M. F. Doirean, Rambouillet, showed Ageratum Souvenir de Ma Jeannie and other sorts, all having curiuubly curled and crested leafage, and the flowers varying in colour from palest to deep blue. Some very tine Tree Piconiea were exhibited by M. Honors Defresne fils, Vitry, near Paris. They were arranged on three sides of a grass plot, standard umbrella- trained Roses being arranged among them. Gold medal and silver Flora medal of the Royal Horticultunil Society. M. Caycux et Le Clerc, Paris; made a large display in formal beds, with annual and other plants raised from seed. They were very closely arranged, and efiectively tilled the centre of one of the halls. Guld medal. One square building was filled witli Roses by two nurserymen, MM. Leveque et fils, Ivry-sur-Seine, and M. R othberg, Geunevilliers (Seine). Standards were arranged around each side, while in the centre were large beds of dwarfs. All the plants were in pots, the latter plunged below the soil. They were finely (lowered, and the leading varieties were represented. They made a splendid show. The standards were particularly well grown and flowered. The premier prix d'honneur was a/warded to MM. Leveque et flls. The Japanese Irises in pots shown by M. Tabor, Mont- morency (S.-et-O.), were a delightful feature of the exhibi- tion. A large bed was filledwith them, and the lovely shades of purple, blue, aiid mauve among the white varieties produced a striking effect. The plants were in 10-inch pots, and each potful bure eight or ten blooms on an average. A ^*)\(\ medal and the Royal Horticultural Society's silver-gilt Banksian medal were awarded. M. L. Ferard, Rue de rAicade, Paris, made a brilliant and extensive display with annual plants in tiuwer. They made a border alung one side of the hall, and the bright colours of the Nasturtiums, ^'iolas, Tagetes, Snapdragons, Aquilegias, Poppies, and many more, small groups of each, being arranged made a gorgeous display. The silverFlora medal of the Royal Horticultural Society and a gold medal were awarded to a group of Gloxinias and Hydrangeas from M. G. Fargeton fils, Angers. (Joe variety with flaccid foliage was very remarkable. Aa is well known. Gloxinia leaves- are very brittle and easily broken, but the plant referred to may be handled with impunity. The only exhibit from England was sent by ilessrs. Cutbush and Son. Highgate, London, N. They exhibited Malmaison and Tree Carnations in several varieties, all boldly arranged in large vases, and making a very bright display. The Malmaisons were huge blooms, and among the tree varieties Mrs. Lawson, Fair ilaid, and Ethel Crocker were conspicuous. A fine yellow Malmaison Carnation called Yaller Gal was included in this exhibit. Guld medal. The Deutzias and cut Lilacs from M. Leraoine, Nancy, made an attractive group. Some of the finest of the former were D. gracilis campanulata (large white flowers), D. grandiflora (pale blush, very free), D. Lemoinci Buule Rose (small Spirrei-like heads of blush flowers), D. Lemoinei (very free, white). Among the Lilacs Mme. de Miller, Miss Ellen WiUmott, Mme. Lemoine and Jeanne d'Arc (double white), Prince de Bsauvau (single lilac), President Loubet (double, red-purple), wtre of the best. M. Lemoine showed Pa'onia lutea superba in flower. The plant in an S-inch pot was about 21 feet high, and bore two clear yellow flowers some 'Ih inches to 3 inches across, and several buds. Gold medal. The Tulips from M. E. Thibaut, Place de la Madeleine, Paris, made n bright display, although their arrangement was wanting in effectiveness. The Royal Horticultural Society's silver-gilt Banksian medal and a prix d'honneur were awarded to M. Cliarles Simon, St. Ouen (Seine), for a large group of Phyllucacti, Agaves, Echeverias, Aloes, itc. The former, which were finely in flower, made a brilliant show. M. Foucard, Orleans, and M. Molin, Lyons, exhibited large gruups of fancy Pelargoniums. Dwarf and standard plants of Metrosideros floribunda, bearing their bright red bottle brush-Uke flowers in pro- fusion, were given a gold raedal and the Ruyal Horticul- tural Society's silver-gilt Banksian medal. They were splendid specimens and quite a feature. The Indian Azaleas shown by M. Ruger flls, Versailles, were full of bloom, and contributed an etfective bit of colouring. Gold medal. Cannas were well exhibited by Messrs. Billiard et Barr^, Fontenay-aux-Roses, Seine. Gold medal. Rhododendrons. One long corridor was filled on either side with groups of Azaleas and Rhododendrons. The most remaikable eroup consisted of two varieties only, Azalea Antony Koster, bright yellow, and Rhudodendron Rubert Croux, deep crimson. The plants were well flowered, and the colour association very effective. Large silver gilt medal. They were shown by MM. Croux et flls Chatenay (Suine). The same exhibitors also showed other groups composed of large, well-flowered specimens of Azaleas and Rhodo- dendrons; in fact, MM. Croux et fils practically filled the corridor devuted to these plants with a galaxy of rich colour supplied by Azaleas and Khndudendruns. There were banks of them, beds and borders filled with them, forming a picture unequalled in the exhibition for rich colouring and effective display. Several varieties well Vlll. THE GARDEN. [May 27, ly05. known to English growers were noticed. Gold medals were awarded. M. Xloser et fils, Versailles, also showed large groups of Azaleas and Rhododendrons. Their varieties of Azalea Mollis made a brilliant show, and their huge bushes of Khododendrons were much admired. Floral Decorations. The floral decorations shown by M. J. Maissa, Boulevard Haussmann, Paris, were delightful. Epergnes of Caladiums, Anthuriums, yellow Cannas and Oncidiums, of white Koses, and a table decorated with Cattleya and Oncidium were very attractive. Somecharmingtabledecorationsshown by M. Lachaume, Rue Royale, Paris, received the prix d'honneur and the silver-^'ilt Flora medal of the Royal Horticultural Society. A mirror some 3 feet wide covered the centre of the table, and it was bordered with pink Roses and mauve Cattleyas. with Asparagus as greenery. In the centre were light and graceful arrangements with Orchids in variety, their brilliant colours being reflected in the mirror below. The decorated table was backed by handsome vases of ornamental foliage and flowers. The floral display arranged under the auspices of the Chambre 8yndicale des I'leuristes de Paris was a most beautiful exhibition. Epergnes tastefully filled with the choicest flowers, tables lightly draped with richest- coloured blossoms, vases boldly arranged, showed the art of floral decoration at its very best. The huge vases filled with one variety of Roses or Hydrangea paniculata, white Lily, or white Lilac were a conspicuous feature. Lilium speciosum raelpomene arranged with a pale yellow Flag Iris made a most ettective vase. German floral decoration, wreaths, vases of flowers, various floral devices were fur the most part heavy and the Qolourassociations bad. One wreath was composedof conifer Shoots and Echeverias, another of Croton leaves. Frcit and Vegetables. There were exhibits of Grapes, Apples, Strawberries, Peaches, and Plums attractively arranued in glass cases. The Peaches and Nectarines from MM. Cordonnrer et fils, Bailleul (Nord, France), were splendid, and received a gold medal and the silver gilt medal of the Royal Horti- cultural Society. Nectarine Pnecoce de Croncels and Early Rivers' were large and very finely coloured, and Peach Hale's Early was finely shown. A gold medal was awarded to M. Durand, Paramt-, for some very guod Pine-apples. Fruit trees in pots, as well as dishes of fruit, were well shown by M. Parent, Rueil (S.-et-O.). Gold medal and the Royal Horticultural Society's silver-gilt Knightian medal. M. Nomblot Bruneau, exhibited a splendid collection of trained fruit trees out of doors near the entrance to the exhibition. MM. Vilraorin-Andrieux et Cie. Paris, had a magnificent exhibit of vegetables, some 800 different varieties being represented. All the vegetables one can think of were on view, and several varieties of almost every one were shown. The yellow flesh Potatoes which are chiefly grown in France, largely owing to the fact that they are better suited to the French methods of cooking than the floury sorts grown in Eiiij;land, were well represented. There were salads innumerable, and, showing how varied they were, included were such out-of-the-way plants as Portulaca oleracea, Claytonia perfoliata (used as a flavour- ing), and Valerianella, in addition to a large number of Lettuces, Chicory, &c. This marvellous exhibit was arranged on the floor in the form of a bed some 4 yards wide and considerably over 100 yards long. The gold medal of the Ruyal H^trticultural Society was awarded in addition to the prix d'honneur. There were other good exhibits of vegetables, though none of such extent and variety as the above. New Plants. M. G. Boucher, Avenue d'ltalie, Paris, showed a plant of Davidia invulucrata about 4 feet high. Dimorphotheca Ecklonis ; a new Verbena bearing white crimson-stiiped flowers, a species of Ficus from West Africa, and an Alue species from Madagascar, were shown by M. \V. Pfitzpr, Stuttgart. M. Desire R^imelet, Bois Colorabes (Seine), showed several new Adiantums, including A. Farleyense alcicorne, not so good a plant as the type. The others were unnamed. Some hybrid Nasturtiums were shown by MM Cayeux and Le Clerc, Quai de la M(f-gi3serie, Paris. They were hybrids of TropxuUim Lobbi and the Canary Creeper. Anthurium iliustre.— A splendid plant of this was shown. It bore Slime ten or twelve leaves beautifully marked with various shades of green upon a cream ground. Croton Dachesse de Gramont.— The upper leaves of this variety are richly coloured, orange red, lightly marked with green, while the lower ones are dark green lined with yellow and red. These two plants, each of which received a gold medal, were shown by MM. Chantier fr^res, Morte- fontaine (Oise). They were also given a silver-gilt medal for Musa sapienturo rubrum, Maranta species from Brazil, Vriesia species, and for Ktcmpferia roscoeana, all stove plants. These were included in a large and effective group of stove plants. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. On Tuesday last displavs of Tulips were largely exhibited io the ll-trticultural Hall, as Uie annual sho%v of the National Tulip Society was held in conjunction with the usual exhibition. There was a good display of flowers, both hardy and exotic, and a large attendance duriug the ftfternoon. Fruit and Vegetable Committee. Present : Mr. A. H. Pearson (chairman), and Messrs. tL 3, Rivera, Owen Thomas, J. Jacques, C. Foster, G. Reynolds, F. Q. Lane, G. Keif, J. Lyne, H. Parr, J. Basham, H. J. Wright, Edwin Beckett, A. Dean, S. Mortimer, and a. ^^'^oodward. Leopold de Rothschild, Esq., Gunnersbury House, Acton (sardener, Mr. James Hudson), was awarded a silver Knightian medal for fruit trees in pots of Early Prolittc Plum and Cardinal Nectarine, and boxes of fruits of Cherries Governor Wood, Bigarreau de Schreken, Belle de St. Tronc, Early Rivers', Frogmore Early Bigarreau, Strawberry Royal Sovereign, and Peach Duchess of Corn- wall. The fruits, especially the Early Rivers' Cherries, were excellent samples. A cultural commendation was awarded to J. B. Fortescue, Esq., Dropmore, Maidenhead (gardener, Mr. Page), for some excellent fruits of Strawberry Royal Sovereign. A vote of thanks was given to the Earl of Portsmouth, Whitchurch, Hants (gardener, Mr. R. Perry), for good fruits of the same variety. Mr. Joseph Fitt, The Fythe Gardens, Welwyn, Herts, showed a dish of Vilmorin's early dwarf French Butter Bean. New Fruit. Cucumber Dt'lica cy. —This is the result ui a cross between Matchless and Aristocrat. It is a short, dark green Cucumber, and a very free cropping variety. Shown by Mr. S. Mortimer, Farnham, Surrey. It was given a unanimous award of merit. Orchid Committee. Present : Mr. J. Gurney Fowler (chairman), Messrs. James OBrien, de B. Crawshay, Francis Wellesley, R. G. Thwaites, W. H. \Vhite, H. T. Pitt, J. Charlesworth, Walter Cobb, G. V. Moore, J. WiUson Potter, A. A. McBean, H. G. Morris, W. Boxall, W. H. Young, H. J. Chapman, H. A. Tracy, H. Little, H. Ballantiue, Jeremiah Colman, and James Douglas. Baron Sir Henry Schroder, The Dell, Egham (gardener, Mr. Ballantine) was awarded a medal for a beautiful group of Orchids, comprising Dendrobium Bensonire, Cattleya Skinneri, Miltonia vexillaria, L;clia purpurata, Cypri- pedium x superculare (with eleven flowers), various good forms of Odontoglossum crispum, Ltelia cinnabarina, Cypripediura callosum Sandera?, all finely flowered. Silver- gilt Flora medaL H. T. Pitt, Esq., Stamford Hill, N. (gardener, Mr. Tbur- good), showed some choice sorts in his group of Orchids. There were Cattleya intermedia alba, C. schilleriana, Ltelia purpurata russelliana var., Odontoglossum luteo- purpureum vuylstekeanum, O. crispum Slaud Rochford, Dendrobium Victoria Regina, and other excellent plants in flower. Silver-gilt Flora medal. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, showed a small group of Orchids, that included Dendro- bium Bensoniffi, D. chrysotoxum, Cattleya intermedia alba, and others. Vote of thanks. The group of Orchids from H. L. Goodson, Esq., West Hill, Putney, S.W., contained some very good Odonto- glossum crispum and other Odontoglossums, Anguloa Clowesii, Miltonia vexillaria Goodsoniio, and L.-C. Good- sonii (C. Mendeli x L. Phoebe). Silver Flora medal. A cultural certificate was awarded to J. B. Joel, Esq., Northaw House, Potter's Bar (gardener, Mr. May), for a splendid plant of Cypripediura rothschildianum bearing three scapes (sixteen flowers, and several buds in all). Several other Orchids were shown, among them being Cattleya Skinneri Minnie, from F. Wellesley, Esq. It is white except for the purple throat, tinged green at the base. A silver-gilt Flora medal was recommended to a plant of Odontoglossum wilckeanum Pitti;c, but we understand that this was eventually withdrawn and a cultural com- mendation substituted. The plant bore sixteen flowers. Cypripcdhun Dviii Carloii nupcrbum. — A first-class certifi- cate was awarded to this Cypripediura, shown by Norman C. Cookson, Esq. The dorsal sepal and petals are heavily spotted with dark crimson upon a cream ground; the pouch is cream coloured. C. lawrenceanum and C. Gode- froy;e leucochilum were the parents. Cattleija Pittite.— Caltlay a. Harrisonjo and C. schilleriana are the supposed parents of this newly-exhibited natural hybiid. Petals and sepals are deep rose, the lip, which is frilled, is rose and yellow ; the two large lobes enwrapping the column are pink. Shown by H. T. Pitt, Esq. (gar- dener, Mr. Thurgood). First-class certificate. OiiiintOfHo-'^KKiii liicasia-iuinHtatoncnftc. — A well-flowered plant, the flowers chocolate coloured with yellow tips to sepals and petals, the lip being yellow, blotched with chocolate-red, was shown by Baron Sir Henry Schroder, The Dell, Egham (gardener, Mr. Ballantine). Award of merit. Ziiynpctahnn crau:shayaniim.—T\ua is the result of a cross between Zygopetiium stapleoides and Z. citrinuni. The plant flowered in 3 years '.> months and 25 days from the time of sowing the seed. The petals and lip are prettily and heavily marked with crimson-browo upon a yellow ground. The sepals are less heavily, though similarly, marked. From de B. Crawshay, Esq., Sevenoaks (gardener, Mr. Stables). Award of merit. iJe/idrohiutn ]'L'iiufi Cuuknun's variety. — An award of merit was given to this plant shown by N. C. Cookson, Esq. It is large, and the petals are tipped with rich purple. The base of the lip also is rich purple, a band of white separating this and the dark purple throat. Narcissus and Tulip Committee. Present: Mr H. B. May (chairman), the Hon. John R. de C. Boacawen, M-essrs. Robert Sydenham, R. W. Wallace, J. T. Bennett-Pui^', James Walker, W. Poupart, E. Bowles, G. Reuthe, Walter T. Ware, J. D. Pearson, and C. H. Curtis. Messrs. R. Wallace and Co., Kilnfleld Gardens, Colchester, exhibited May-flowering Tulips in great variety. La MerveiUe, Parisian (yellow), Picotee, Gold Cup, Gesneriana major. Zephyr, Margaret, and others made a brilliant show. Silver-gilt Flora medal. Messrs. Hogg and Robertson, Rush, County Dublin, showed Tulips in variety. The flowers were large ami boldly displayed. Such handsome sorts as Heiiner, elegana- lutea. La Merveille, Loveliness, Pride of Haarlem, Mr.". Muoi> and others were included. Silver-gilt Bink-ian medal. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, showed a brilliant- group of Cottage and Darwin Tulips, as well as hardy plants. The Cottage Tulips were represented by Snowdon, Rosalind, Mrs. Moon, Bouton d'Or, The Moor, and others z and the Darwin varieties by Mrae. R^iven, Peter Barr, Clara Butt, tfec. There were some very beautiful Eiigliuh Tulips also in Messrs. Barr's gmup. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Limited, Belfast anti Dublin, exhibited a splendid lot of Tulips, the Darwin and Jlay-rtowering types predominating. Among the former were Clara Butt, Royal Blue, Coquelin (bright red), Bronze King, Grand Master (light purple), Yellow Perfection, The Sultan, and Psyche (rich rose). Large vases lull of each were displayed, making a very shosvy exhibit. Silver- gilt Flora medal. Mr. G. Reuthe, Fox Hill Nursery. Keston, Kent, ex- hibited a sraall group of Tulips in variety. Silver Bank- sian medal. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, made a bright display with Parrot, Darwin, and Jlay-Howerint; Tulips in variety. The flowers were beautifully fresh and bright. A large group of Tulips was shown by Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech. Darwins were chiefly repre- sented, and they made an excellent display. The flowers- were fresh, of good form and colour, and freely arranged. Silver-gilt Banksian medal. Mr. Alex. M. Wilson, Eist Keal, Spilsby, Lincolnshire^ exhibited a small group of beautiful Tulips, the flowers of such sorts as Clara Butt, Glow, La Merveille, and Coridion, making a most attractive display. Silver Binksian medal- Messrs. William Bull and Sons, Chelsea, exhibiteiJ Tulips in variety. Darwin, Cottage, and Parrot varieties^ were each well represented. Awards of merit were granted to the Darwin Tulips. Whistler, bright red with blue centre, from Mr. G. Reuthe. Keston ; Quaintness, old gold marked with rose red ; and Innocence, a large, handsome white flower with yellow centre, both from Messrs. W. T. Ware, Limited, Bath. New Plants. Clematis montana var } tfbm.s. — This flne plant whei> shown upon the last occasion received the award o9 merit, but the plant was then obviously not seen at its- best, the sepals, as now seen, being fully coloured rosy- lilac. It is not merely a flne addition to good climbing: plants, it is also a good companion to the old and well- known white kind. From Messrs. James Veitch and Sous, Limited, Chelsea. First-class certiflcate. Primufa vittata.— This new species from Western China is virtually a purple flowered P. sikkimensis, with the same drooping urabets of flowers supported on somewhat shorter pedicels. Award of merit. Lobelia temnor rar. rosea.— A pale rose-coloured forn> of the above-named species, the plant possessing the same habit of growth and freedom of flowering as the older kind. The new comer should be of service in many ways. Award of merit. Both plants were exhibited by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. Iris PerKvpho-iie {Reije^io-cydns).—A. large and handsome kind, coloured violet-blue and purple in the main, with many veins or reticulations on a white ground. The falls, which are heavily coloured dark purple, are more lightly- veined white. The variety is of large size and showy in the extreme. From C G. Van Tubergen, jun., Haarlem, Holland. Award of merit. *^'^ The report of the exJdbits before the Floral Com" mittce is unavoidably held over until next iveek. NATIONAL TULIP SOCIETY'S SHOW. The twelfth annual exhi'ution of this society was held in the Royal Horticultural Hall on Tuesday last. Although the schedule is not a large one, competition in most of the classes was unusually keen, and a flner display resulted than is generally seen. The chief prizewinners are given below. Kor twelve dissimilar rectified Tulips, the flrst prize, a silver cup, was won by Mr. J. W. Bentley, Middleton, with some beautiful flowers. The second prize was awarded to Mr. C. W. Needham, Hale ; third, Miss Willmott. Sevea prizes were awarded. For six dissimilar rectifled Tulips the flrst prize was woi> by Mr. A. D. Hall, Harpenden. For three feathered Tulips Miss Willmott won the flrst prize, Mr. Bentley being second, and Mr. Needham third. The best three flamed Tulips were shown by Mr. W. Peters, Cambridge. The varieties were Sam Barlow,. Mabel, and Duchess of Sutherland. Miss Willmott won the first prize for three discimilar Breeder Tulips, Mr. A. »_'hater being second. For six dissimilar Breeder Tulips Afiss Willmott was also flrat with beautiful blooms of Goldflnder, Annie McGregor,. Janette, and others. In the classes for single blooms of the various dilferent classes Miss Willmott, Mr. R. C. Chater, Mr. Bentley, and- Mr. Hall won the flrst prizes. The Samuel Barlow prizes for the best pair of rectifled Tulips were awarded as follows ; First, Mr. Needham ; second, Mr. Bentley ; third. Mr. Poters. In classes open only to growers of less than 400 flowering bulbs of English Tulips, Mr. Kew was first for three flamed Tulips; Mr. Kene, second. For six rliasimilar rectifled Tulips, Mr. J. F. Kow was flrst. For three feathered I Tulips, Mr. R. W. Hall was flrst. fefej^. g^^- GARDEN ■^■^ !Si^ No. 1750.— Vol. LXVII. June 3, 1905. MAY FROSTS. TWO years ago the hopes of fruit growers were dashed to the ground through a series of sharp frosts experienced in May, and once again the same thing happens. Ah, these May frosts ! We realise what they mean to us when they are over, and but for them we could do many things confidentially in the horticultural line which at present are attended with great risks. We are told that there is a demand for home-grown fruit, and that its culture is profitable. .Just so ; but with what greater confidence would the industry be taken up if it were not for the possibility of May frosts, which in one night may ruin all chances of profit for a season. Before the 21st growers were congra- tulating themselves on the way in which the Plums had stood the cold winds, and suggestions were made that it would be well if half the fruit fell off, and so avoid the evils of a glut which was then probable. One hears a difli'erent story now, and while the growers whose trees were above the frost line have reason to congratulate themselves, all the plantations and orchards which came within the grip of the frost have suffered considerably. The frost came as a surprise to a grower who has been experimenting with the Calitornian system of placing fire- pans underneath the trees to ward off the frost, for he omitted to light up on the night in question, with the result that the experi- ment shows nothing and the fruit is lost. A paragraph appeared in a morning paper to the effect that the Strawberry crop was hopelessly ruined, but we have heard that story before, and know that Strawberries are not spoilt so easily. Still the grim fact remains that, except in very sheltered situa- tions, the first blossoms, which produce the finest fruits, were turned black, and this will necessarily make some difference to the pockets of Strawberry growers when the time for picking commences. We have known seasons of gluts of fruit in spite of May frosts having ruined the early blooms, but this may be accounted for by the fact that all the fruit in various districts from the second relay of bloom comes in together, instead of following in succession, as is the case in ordinary circumstances. Traces of the frost could be quickly seen on the Pears, and many of the fruits have fallen, but it is too early to say anything about the Apples. The latter were in full bloom when the frost came, and though some damage is inevitable it is hoped that the loss will not be serious. As a matter of fact it is not the first few days after a sharp May frost that one is able to estimate exactly the amount of the damage done, but weeks hence, for fruit which at first sight may not appear to have suffered, receives a fatal check and falls off, when it ought to swell up and come to maturity. May frosts are the bane of fruit growers in this country, and through the possibilities of these alone the industry will always be risky. It is bad enough for an amateur, who grows fruit for a hobby or for his own consumption, to see the hopes of a year dashed in a few hours, but how much more serious is it to the com- mercial grower, to whom those blackened fruits mean a serious loss of money. THE ANNALS OF THE LITTLE RED HOUSE.— HL As is generally the case in neglected gardens, the gravel paths seemed to have suffered most. I think nothing adds more to the beauty of a garden than well-kept paths, and if the gravel is white so much the better. The turf verges, too, are of the greatest importance, and should be kept free of Plantains, Daisies, and the tiresome, bulbous- rooted Crowsfoot, which is one of our worst weeds. Directly we had finished putting the her- baceous borders in order and the manuring and cropping of the kitchen garden was com- pleted, we determined to tackle the garden paths, a task which, if it be properly done, is no light or easy one. Besides those exist- ing, which were in a parlous state from moss, weeds, and dirt, we found it was necessary to make an entirely new path. One of the prettiest bits of border in the flower garden had to be approached over the lawn, and as here also were arrangements for a water supply, we foresaw that the constant passing to and fro would make it impossible to keep the grass from being very much injured, so we determined to make a gravel path along- side the flower-border. We found, meantime, greatly to our relief, that the old paths had been so well con- structed that they only required to be well weeded, turned over, and a skimming of fresh gravel added to make them as good as new. This was done, and they were rolled constantly, particularly after rain, allowing a certain time to elapse first. It entirely depends how a path is made at first whether it will remain satisfactory for years, as it should do. The foundation, as in everything else, is a great point, .so we began by taking the right level and deciding on the width. The turf was then carefully raised with a turfing iron, rolled up, and put by for further use, and then the earth was removed to the depth of 12 inches. One-half the depth was filled in with bits of brick and any hard rubbish, of which there is always plenty about an old house. Over this went a layer of fine material of the same description, and _ the whole was firmly rolled down, leaving room for a good 3 inches of gravel on the top. We raised the path in the centre to allow the wet to run off, and as the weather was dry just then, the gravel was slightly damped before it was rolled. After that we gave the path repeated rollings at intervals. If you like to make your own weed-killer for preventing the growth of weeds on your gravel paths, there is nothing better or cheaper than crude carbolic acid, using an ounce to a gallon of water ; but great care must be exercised with all these chemicals to prevent any of the liquid falling on the grass verges. A board or two against the edge is a simple and excellent precaution. I never shall forget the state of the verges when on one occasion a weed-killer having been employed by my gardener, he walked first on the paths and then on the turf, with the result that for 100 yards there were burnt prints of his, by no means, fairy foot. The paths being satisfactorily finished, the lawns were taken in hand, weeded, mown, and rolled — one piece was like a stubble field. The former owner had taken up and destroyed an old fountain, and had filled in the cavity left with rough material and a good deal of chalk and clay left from the fountain, and then he cut out a large round bed and elected to fill it with Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Now, as we all know, if there is one thing more than another that disagrees with these plants it is chalk, so what wonder if these plants were about as unhappy as they could be ! So they were all taken up and given a chance for their lives elsewhere in more congenial soil. The bed was levelled and covered in with the turves left from the making of the new path, and soon you could hardly see where the old bed had been. There were two other harmless, but unneces- sary, beds on the lawn, but these we decided to leave until the autumn. One we sowed with Shirley Poppy seed, closely following Mr. Wilks' instructions, and the other with Mignonette, which, knowing the existence of chalk in the neighbourhood, we opined would do well. Two long, narrow beds, one each 326 THE GARDEN. [June 3, 1905. side of the walk leading to tlie house, iu which were some rather unhappy-looking iloses, were planted with mixed Violas and Pansies, and two other similar beds were dedicated to Phlox Drummondi. The former plants, with plenteous waterings in dry weather and removal of the seed-pods, con- tinued in bloom all the summer, and the Phlox flowered brilliantly from July until the frosts came. Augusta de Lacy Lacy. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. RESULT OF THE APRIL COMPETITION. We have carefuliy gone through the many papers, and have no hesitation in placing Mr. A. Bedford, The Gardens, Gunnersbury House, Acton, Middlesex, first. The answers to the questions are most instructive, and the systera of culture is clearly explained. Wo print the answers with pleasure, as we feel they will prove of use to the beginner in the culture of fruit trees in pots. The second prize is awarded to Mr. George Camp, The Lodge, Holyport, Maidenhead. The third prize is awarded to Mr. Thomas Davies, The Gardens, Danston Hall, Staffs. The fourth prize Is awarded to Mr. F. W. Walker, The Gardens, Sion House, Sion Mills, County Tyrone, Ireland. The second and third prize essays are exceed- ingly good, and it was necessary to read them several times before finally making the awards. We must also congratulate the winner of the fourth prize. The next best essay was that written by Mr. A, D. Christie, Bidford, Warwickshire, and also well deserving of honourable mention are Mr. Thomas Tomlinson, The Gardens, Tower House, Leigham Court Road, Streatham ; Mr. W. Jones, The Gardens, Hafodunos, Abergele, North Wales ; and Mr. M. Millard, Hartley Wintney, Winch field, Hants. The majority of the papers seemed to show that the answers had been hurriedly written. This should not be when so much time is allowed for the competitions. The first prize answers are as follow : I.— With the exception of Figs, annual repotUiiy; of fruit trees in pots is moat beneficial. The root space is 30 restiicted that one season is sutHcient to exhau'it all nutriment from the quantity of soil used. Therefore by thoroughly reducing old balls and adding fresh soil tibrous roots are encouraged, which are most essenlial for the future welfare of the trees. On the other hand, Figs give better results if only repotted every second or third year. In intermediate years the top soil can Ije removed as much as possible, and replaced with fresh without taking out the tree. II.— The latter end of October. Good turfy loam, with which is mixed well rotted manure in the propor- ti(jn of one part to three. To this add old mortar rubble, well broken up, at the rate of one barrow- load to the load. If the loam is not of a calcareous nature, a fieer use of mortar rubble may be made, as it is most beneficial to stone fruits. For Figs and Cherries certainly use in greater proportion. Shrivelling of the wood and bud dropping are sure to follow if the trees are subjected to either extremes of wet or dryness at the roots, or neglecting to keep the trees syringed. III.— If proper attention has been given to the trees, that is, kept pinched during the growing season, pruning is a very light task with pot trees, and this operation may he performed with forced trees when the house is set up for starting at the latter end of November or beginning of iJeceraber, and following on with the later trees. Shorten previous year's shoots buck so as to retain four or five buds, always making sure to cut to a leaf- bud. Short spurry growth is the chief object to aim at in pot culture. In the London district it is advisable only to give slight pruning before the trees are started, removing useless wood and retaining long shoots until after tlie fruit is set. In this way a fruit may be carried on a shoot not required for furnishing the tree, afterwards cut right out. The reason for this system is because fogs sometimes ruin the greater part of the crop. If treated in this way an extra fruit may be IV.— Fifteen to twenty years would be a fair average, although there are instances of much older trees still doing good service. Want of repotting, an unsuitable house, overfeeding with artificial manures, and overcrowding are some of the reasons for pot trees quickly deteriorating. The first remedy to restore to health would be to rest the trees from forcing and cropping. Do every- tiiing to encourage root action and growth. A very good plan is to repot into perforated pots. Plunge the pots to the rims in the border out of doors, giving plenty of light and air. In this way the bulk of the roots are kept within bounds, but others protrude through holes in pots into the border, and so supply the tree with more nourish- ment. In this way trees may he brought round again to healthy fruiting specimens. v.— Peaches : Duke of York, Peregrine, Dr. Elogg, Crim- son Galande, Sea Eagle, and Thomas P^ivera : Peregrine thebest. Plums : EarlyTransparentGage, Pieine Claude de Bavay, Jefferson, Golden Trans- parent Gage, Coe's Golden Drop, and Late Trans- parent Gage ; Golden Transparent Gage the best. Cherries : Guigne d"Annonay. Early llivers', Bigar- reau de Schreken, (Governor Wood, Frogmore Early Bigarreau, and Black Tartarian ; Early Rivers' the best. Figs : St. John, Negro Largo, and Bourjasotte Grise; Neero Largo the best. Nectarines: Early Rivers', Advance, and Albert Victor ; Early Rivers' the best. VI. — To secure ripe fruits by the middle of Hay, Plums and Peaches should be started the beginning of the last fortnight in December ; Cherries and Figs the beginning of the last fortnight in January. By starting very gently and using first early varieties, and paying due attention to tempera- tures, ripe fruit is certain to be obtained by the time desired. No strict rules can be laid down for temperatures during early forcing, as one must be governed by outside conditions. High night temperatures must be avoided, nothing is more detrimental, especially at the commencement. Any time lost at the beginning can afterwards be made up a few weeks before ripening, when the weather is more favourable. The following temperatures may be taken as a guide in pro- ducing ripe fruits by the time stated, arranged fortnightly, December 17 time of starting Plums and Peaches : 35'=' by night, SS'^ by day ; 35° night, 38"^ to 40° day ; 35'^ night, 40*^ day ; 40^^ night, 45«day; 40° to 45° night, 45° to 50° day ; 45° night, 50° day ; 45^" to 50° night, 50* to 55* day ; 50" to 55' night, 60° day ; 55° to 60" night, G5° day ; 60° to G5° night, G.5' to 70" day ; 65" to 70° night, 70^ to 75° day. The above temperatures apply to Plums, Peaches, and Figs, starting Figs at same degree? as given for third fortnight, and so continuing. The above temperatures must in all cases be reduced 5* less for forcing Cherries from time stated for starting same, as Cherries respond more freely to forcing, and they do not require to be closely shut up ; leave a little air on top and bottom ventilators always, except in frosty weather, until the fruit is ripening. Excessive artificial heating is fatal to Cherries, therefore do not employ it more than absolutely necessary. It will also he necessary to shade Cherries when in flower during very bright sunshine by means of syringing with whiting on the glass. VII.— Phosphate as a chemical manure will be most beneficial to all stone fruits such as those mentioned, as it tends to encourage even growth and formation of fruit buds. It also supplies great assistance in the development of the stone. In applying a chemical manure it is of the greatest importance that one should be thoroughly ac- quainted with the nature of the soil to be dealt with, otherwise more harm than good may be done. Personally, I am not an advocate for the excessive u^e of manures, especially with stone fiuits. Liijuid manure I prefer to all others, and that only applied in a weak state once or twice a week after the stoning period is over. VIII. — To remain for two or three weeks in same positions in house, reducing artihcial heat gradu- ally. Ventilate freely in order to harden them off prior to being ;taken outside ; then they are plunged up to the rims in a border, placing a brick or few ashes at bottom of holes for pots to stand on. The reason for plunging is, Mrst, because the earth which envelops them keeps tlie pots and their contents cool and moist, and reduces the labour of wateiing considerably ; secondly, it pre- vents the trees from blowing over in windy weather, and possibly getting damaged in that way. Water must he given in dry weather, and the plants hosed or syringed every day, except when it rains, in order to keep them clean and healthy. This operation contiiuies until the end of September, when the trees are again brought indoors for repotting. For this process it is necessary to place under cover for a lime, so that tlie eailh in the pots shall not he sorlden. It is not advisable to place early forced Figs out of doors, but under shelter. Rhododendron Pink Pearl is very finely in flower out of doors at Sunninydale Park, Berks. The large trusses of rich piuk flowers are most freely produced. NOTES OF THE WEEK. A coloured plate of Rhododendron t'ulgens will be given with The Garden next week. Royal Hoptieultural Society.— Among the new Fellows elected at the general meeting on Tuesday the 2.'kd ult. were the Dowager Lady Ashburton, Lady Deane, Lady A. Fitz- william, Lady Constance Hatch, Lady E. Malet, Lady Barbara Smith, Lady Beatrix Stanley, Lady Violet Villiers, Lady Clementina Waring, the Hon. Mrs. Farquhar, the Hon. James Hozier, M.P., the Hon. Mrs. Percy Mitford, the Hon. J. S. Talbot, M.P., Sir R. Drummond MoncriefFe, Bart., Sir Vincent Caillard, Mr. Richard L Loveland, K.C., D.L., Lieut. -Colonel E. Tufnell, MP., Lieut. -Colonel J. W. Yerbury, and Mr. F. Courtenay Warner, M.P. A lecture, illustrated by lantern slides, waa delivered by Mr. E. Morell Holmes on "Medical Plants Old and New," which, in view of the celebration of the centenary of the Royal Medical and Chirur- gical Society last week, was both most opportune and interesting. The lecturer pointed out that, although horticulture must have begun at a very early period of civilisation, the plants required for medicinal use were chiefly collected from the fields and woods, and were not specially culti- vated, except those which, like the Pomegranate and Almond, afforded edible fruits, and, like Henna, were planted for their fragrance, and, like the Lily, for their beauty. It was only in the records of monasteries, abbeys, and nunneries in the Middle Ages that we found any mention of a physic garden or portion set apart for the cultivation of medicinal herbs, usually near the surgeon's residence, and distinct from another portion of the garden, retained for culinary herbs. One of the first lists of plants cultivated in these physio gardens was given in the Capitulary of Charlemagne. Subsequently wealthy citizens had physic gardens, and during the reigns of the Tudors there were physic gardens under the charge of the apothecarj" who attended Royalty. Private physic gardens were followed by muni- cipal physic gardens, and these developed into the modern botanical gardens to which modern horti- culture owes so much. The increasing use of quinine led to cultivation of Cinchona Bark on a large scale in India and Ceylon, followed by that of Coca in various colonies. The lecturer also alluded to the cultivation of Indian Hemp for medicinal purposes, and to the ancient and more extensive cultivation of the Opium Poppy in various countries. The lecture was illustrated by numerous photographs, showing ancient gardens and the cultivation of medicinal plants iu farms in this country, an. CORRESPONDENCE. f Tlie Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. ) ERICA LUSITANICA. [To THE Editor or " The Garden."] SI R, — I enclose a photograph of a large plant of Erica Uisitanica that we have growing here which may be of some interest. We have two other plants, but this is the best. It is a splendid winter-flowering plant, and has been in bloom this year from the beginning of November, and is only now just going over. On one occasion this winter we registered IS'-"' of frost, and yet the blooms suffered no harm. Our soil is of the poorest, being nothing but stones and white sand, with an extremely thin layer of peaty soil on top. Until three years ago this plant was growing in a large and neglected clump of Rhododendrons. These have been removed, and an annual dressing of natural peaty leaf soil from the woods is given. Last year it ripened its seeds well, and I have now got a batch of J'oung seedlings coming on. F. M. Makk. While House Gardens, Hythe, Southampton. THE PRUNING OF SHRUBS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — It would be a real boon to many urban ami suburban districts if local authorities, without undergoing any great expense, could have some control over the regulation of shrub- beries in roadside gardens. It is true they have the power to demand the lopping of branches of trees and shrubs which overhang pathways to the inconvenience of passers-b}', but what is urgently needed is some supervision over the managementof shrubs. It is not unusual in neighbourhoods of fifty years old and upwards to see Lilacs which have grown to a height of 'I'y feet, with the result that the stems to a height of I'i feet or 14 feet are perfectly naked ; and the same remark holds good of Laurels, Privet, ifec. , while it is not unusual to see Aucubas 10 feet and I'i feet in height, with some foliage on the topmost branches, but with several feet of bare stem below. These overgrown shrubs shut out sun- shine and air from neighbouring gardens, to the great detriment of subjects growing in them. Families will occupy one of these villa residences tor years, witnessing the growth of shrubs beyond all reasonable limits, and apparently quite con- tent to have gaunt limbs bare of foliage against their walls and fences instead of a cheerful growth of foliage. Hundreds of such instances can be seen in the suburbs of London ; gardens have become copses instead of pleasant and inviting spots. It is very ditiicult to suggest a remedy, but as local authorities have open spaces to keep in due order and employ properly-qualified men for the purpose, they, perhaps, might at certain seasons of the year make an offer of assistance to keep shrubbery borders in due bounds of growth, adding to the attractiveness of the garden and preventing the overgrowth of tree and shrub from being a nuisance to neighbours. The strong prnjudice which exists against efforts of municipal June 8, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 329 enterprise in some quarters would, doubtless, rise up in opposition to such a proposal as that I have put forward. Still, it is a matter worthy of consideration. The jobbing gardener, whether he is working on his own account or is sent out by a local florist, is useless in the way of making suggestions to villa residents. His range of knowledge is limited, he is destitute of imagina- tion, and his powers of observation are practically nil. He has no eye for the overgrowth of shrubbery, he makes no suggestion for keeping shrubs and trees within due bounds ; they lose their ornamental character, and become a nuisance to a neighbour who prefers to have an abundance of light and sunshine flooding his garden, and imparting health and vigour to his plants. There is no desire to exclude shade ; shade can be enjoyed in due proportion if shrubs are intelli- gently pruned as they should be, and trees kept within due bounds. In the neighbourhood in which I reside, the self-sown Sycamore has become a perfect pest. It is allowed to grow to a great size, and its rapid development elbows out of existence many a charming shrub that should be an object of beauty. R. D, BULLFINCHES IN THE GARDEN. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I have read the correspondence in your valuable paper about bullfinches in the garden, and think some of the correspondents know little about the ravages of these birds amongst fruit trees and choice flowering shrubs. It would be well to know how many really practical fruit- growers praise these birds. I am a lover of birds, and preserve and feed insect-eating birds, but when any bird becomes a danger to a great industry like fruit-growing, etc., its numbers should be reduced. .The bullfinch and sparrow have now become a great danger, and we who love our home-grown fruit and our flowering trees and shrubs should try and reduce them. Now I would like to ask " A. W. L." two or three questions for the sake of thrashing out thi^ vexed question in a practical way to the benefit of fruit and flowergrowers. First, is "A. W. L.'s" garden in a wooded part of the country ; second, is piraffin and soft soap a preventive in showery weather, and how would the buds of a 30 feet or 40 feet tree be moistened with this mixture ; third, does " A. W. L." favour fruit culture or bull- finches? I have tried paraffin and soft soap and many other so-called remedies, and during the time the buds are on the move they have all failed, except the gun, and if " A. W. L." is an advocate for British-grown fruit he will find more music in the gun than the piping of the bullfinch, should he have a fruit garden in a wooded district. Berks. Townsend. APPLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION.— TREE PLANTING. [To the Editor oi' " The Garden."] Sir, — Great Britain, in the present stage of many of its productions, is a country of "samples" — the very weather is thus popularly designated. Standards of quality are conspicuous by their absence. Wheat of English production is sold on "sample." To makeup for the deficiency in this respect, we apparently try to remedy the evil by habitually planting " standard " Apple and other fruit trees, and thus again court disaster. "A. D." writes, on page 176 (March 25): "I trust it will always be the endeavour of all who have the interest of our home Apple supply at heart to deprecate the planting of standard trees." My own words, recorded on page 156 (March 18 issue), are : "Or the drawback is that standard trees are planted, which is a complete mistake in all circumstances, except for Cherries for market and in the form of fruit trees generally along highways." In your issue of April 8, pages 101 and 102, appears a letter from Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons on the subject of Apples generally, but coupled with the expression of high esteem in which they justifiably hold the Gravenstein. I consider Messrs. Cannell as the pioneers among our fruit tree growers in respect of the Graven- stein, in favour of which I have previously not heardan adequate judgment expressed by nursery- men. Yet it is an Apple that should, if gathered from suitable soil conditions, to which Messrs. Cannell refer as essential to success, rank hardly less high in its season than Cox's Orange Pippin. The place of origin of the Gravenstein is about 53° N. latitude, in Northern Germany (near Hamburg), and it should therefore do well any- where in these isles. It became known about seventy years ago, since when it has risen to be the most appreciated Apple in Germany. It figures in every Belgian and French catalogue under very eulogistic terms as to quality. Canada has sent us, for a couple of decades, many thou- sand barrels of Gravensteins annually, arriving from the middle of October. But as to flavour, the Canadian product is less desirable than the home grown, however highly coloured the former is. I quito agree with Messrs. Cannell in that I prefer to apply my teeth to the Gravenstein direct from the tree in the second half of September. I find the Gravenstein is not surpassed by any Apple until Cox's Orange Pippin assumes its sovereignty by the end of October. Messrs. Cannell's reference to the desirability of a closer determination of the most meritorious Apples in this country, as is done in countries that beat our own supplies, is most opportune. If we were simultaneously practising what Mr. Engleheart recently pointed out and what Mr. A. Dean also emphasised, as to cross-breeding of suitable varieties, we might within another genera- tion raise the standard of our Apples altogether, would oust our numerous " samples," and make for a "standard." The British Isles are the target of so much varied foreign produce, dumped by the wholo world without hindrance. Let us try and establish one really wholesome standard, at least, in the supremacy of our Apples, for no country is more blessed by climate than these Isles are, whatever croakers may say, who, as is facetiously observed, insist that our apology for climate is incapable of rising beyond a supply of "baked Apples." Such pessimists habitually make the supreme mistake in not selecting a " site," but allowing the commanding question of meteorological influences to be a negligible factor, whereas the comprehension of this element means success for one attending to its manifest teachings, when ninety-nine fail chiefly for no other reason. This country would be capable of a vast export in surplus Apples to less favoured regions of the European Continent if the right methods for ex- ploitation of the actual conditions were adopted. If the proper selection of site is made, and at the relatively moderate pries of the day the freehold is bought, as it can be, young trees planted are cheap, and forthwith grow into money ! Where is the risk, except that of bad management? While a house is no sooner built and completed than it begins to crumble, a tree constitutes true wealth ; and that does not refer merely to fruit trees, but to forest trees also. There is not one true forest in these entire isles, and the nation wastes fifty millions sterling annually as the consequence. Kent. H. H. "Raschbn. OWN ROOT ROSES. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — The dismal account of the result of trials of own root Roses quoted in your first article of the issue of the 13th ult. is rather a blow to me after getting a considerable number of own root Roses on the advice in "Roses for English Gardens " to plant own root Roses on light soils in preference to budded plants. I trust some other growers may give your readers the other side of the question. H. THE FLOWER GARDEN. OUTDOOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Planting Early-flowerino Varieties. THERE appears to be a natural tendency to commence planting the early and semi-early garden Chrysanthemums outdoors at far too early a date. This almost feverish haste, in some instances, to begin work in the middle of April seldom gives results so satisfac- tory as those which follow a later planting. The only plants that should be taken in hand early are the old ones. Plants of this kind d^lring March and April are not infrequently represented by sturdy-looking tufts of growth of the hardiest character. They should be divided as early in the season as convenient, and before the recently developed growths have made too much progress. Old stools that are to be divided, if left too long before being taken in hand, give some trouble. The early-flowering garden Chrysanthemums are now often described as " hardy," and this de- scriptive term is a perfectly true one as regards most of the sorts catalogued to-day. A few do not winter outdoors satisfactorily. The plants differ considerably in the character of their growth. Some of the old stools break up quite easily, one root often providing sufficient stock to make quite a large bed of the one sort. An old and excellent type of plant, that divides with the greatest ease, is that represented by Mine. Marie Mass6. This plant having sported so fre- quently, it is now possible to make quite an interesting series of colours from its offspring. Numerous sucker-like growths are developed on an old stool, and each growth may be detached with the greatest ease. Divided portions of plants that have been left out in the open borders during the winter may, of course, be broken up and planted in the earlier days already referred to. In the case of plants raised in the orthodox fashion in the late winter or early spring, in heat, it would be most unwise to begin planting until about the middle of May. At the lime of writing (early May) the wind has been blowing a gale the greater part of the last few days, and plants raised this season, if planted outdoors, would be quickly denuded of their somewhat brittle foliage. The practice of trade growers of potting up the plants in the early spring, and when executing an order sending the plants in pots, or shaken out and carefully wrapped up as an alternative, is now superseded by a newer and simpler method. Plants of the early kinds, when grown in pots, seldom seem to make the progress one might resonably expect them to do. This may be attributed to their more vigorous root action possibly, in which they appear to resent the cribbed and confined treatment in pots. Trade growers in many instances now plant their rooted cuttings in cold frames. This begins in March, and the young plants appear to revel in the freer root action and the more natural conditions thus afforded them. They are not crowded in the frames, and each one is planted rather firmly. Unfavourable climatic conditions can thus be guarded against. During spells of frosty weather, or when cold and boisterous winds prevail, a partial closing of the frame-lights may afford all the protection that is necessary, and the latter may be entirely removed when none of these troubles are experienced. In this way plants of an ideal character, with well-matured growths, are prepared in readiness for transference to their flowering quarters. If the plants are in one's own garden they may be lifted with a good ball of soil adhering to the roots of each one, and placed in their permanent quarters with comparative ease. Unless plants of one's own raising are thoroughly hardened off, it is better to defer planting until that is satisfac- torily accomplished. The same remarks apply to plants that have been purchased ; the want of hardening off is clearly denoted by the pale character of their growth. 330 THE GARDEN. [June 3, 1905. Assuming that the plants are ready for trans- ference to their flowering quarters, the grower must satisfy himself first of all that the latter are also quite ready to receive them. The early- flowering Chrysanthemums are not in the least fastidious as to position, and will succeed in almost any aspect where they can obtain a fair amount of sunshine. The plants should not be arranged too near tall trees and shrubs, as they become drawn and weakly. Beds and borders in an open, sunny position, where they can be sheltered from strong winds, may be regarded as ideal. Large beds of one sort, or two or three kinds arranged in association for colour eS'ect, are best. There are now many early kinds bearing blossoms of almost every warm tone of colour imaginable. Beds of one colour, or a series of them, so planted that there may be a proper sequence of colour, make a delightful picture. Japanese varieties now largely preponderate, and as the form of their flowers is most varied in its character, they are the more favourably regarded. Habit of growth, too, in their case is also so much better than it used to be. The plants of the better kinds are bushy and branching, and plenty of space should be allowed to each one. The Japanese sorts should be planted 3 feet apart each way, and if the standard sorts be selected the intervening spaces between the plants should be well filled with branching growths before the season of flowering is over. The Pompon kinds will be satisfied with less space. Some of the smaller varieties may be '2 feet apart each way, but a more general rule, and, on the whole, a better one, is to allow 2i feet between the plants. Grouped in beds by themselves, and planted with a proper regard tn their respective heigh ts, the Pompons are strik- ing and effective. Massed in groups here and there in the hardy border, too, they look well. Avoid crowding at all times. Isolated specimens of some of the better branching plants are very pretty when in full blossom. During September and October nothing looks better in the landscape than bold groups. Yellows, orange, and crimson Japanese sorts now abound, and of each of these colours there are numerous intermediate shades available. Plant in soil that is not very rich, as heavily manured ground promotes growth of too coarse and vigorous a character. If a collection of plants can be allocated in a special quarter of the garden, plant them in rows, keeping the .Japanese kinds together and the Pompons to themselves. Do not pinch the plants to induce them to make a bushy style of growth. Pinching the outdoor plants is a mistake. Do not disbud the plants except in a few special cases where the buds are on short flower-stalks, or where the cluster of buds is too dense. Hiyhcjale, N. D. B. Crane. in front of the Palm house. The display is a striking one, and an object-lesson in the use of a class of bulbous flowers which we cannot have too much of at this season. THE ROSE GARDEN. KOSE LADY ROBERTS IMPROVED. 0 M E market growers have obtained a deep-coloured form of this lovely Rose. If so, and they can maintain the improved colour, the demand for the cut blooms will be great. When grown in strong heat there is no more exquisite than Lady Roberts, and all florists and who have demands for cut bloom would welcome this improved form. There can be no doubt that selection is as possible among Roses as among other things, and I should say especially would this be so among sports. I think it has never been denied that Lady Roberts was a sport from Anna OUivier, as I believe the same may be said of Mme. Hoste. Growers, especially those s Rose those its blossoms as freely as the old favourite Gloire de Dijon, from which it was obtained by crossing with Mrs. W. J. Grant. P. MAY TULIPS AT KEW. At the present moment one of the most beautiful features in the Royal Gardens, ]\&\\, is the massing of May-flowering Tulips GROnPS OF TULIPS IN rRONT OF THE PALM HOUSE AT KEW. commercially interested, should mark any especially high-coloured blooms of Lady Roberts, Bridesmaid, Liberty, &c. , and propagate from the shoots upon which such blooms are produced. Repeat this for a few seasons and I imagine an improved strain would be obtained of many of our forcing Roses. P. ROSE ENGLAND'S GLORY. This Rose is proving to be a real acquisition, and is by far the best climbing pink variety, either under glass or outdoors. When I say best I mean as far as quality of blossom is concerned. The flowers are deep and handsome. I always find such Roses do not require strong stimulants. Give them good loam and occasional waterings of liquid cow manure and soot. For culture under glass there is another lovely pink, none other than a climbing sport of the fragrant Mme. de Watteville. This variety, however, is rather too tender to grow outdoors, unless in the southern counties. England's Glory will be a valuable Rose for growing as a standard, and it produces WORK AMONG THE ROSES. May is the most anxious month of the year for the rosarian. The plants promise so well, and suddenly a spell of cold east and north-east winds makes thera appear miserable. We cannot alter the weather, but we may assist our plants to withstand the trying ordeal, and one of the best aids is Hoeing. — This must be carefully done, not merely to check weeds, but as much to allow air and warmth to penetrate into the soil. Without going into the scientific explanation concerning the usefulness of hoeing, the amateur may take it for granted that to keep a good loose surface is one of the best aids to successful cultivation. If possible use the push hoe, so that the soil is not trodden upon after the operation. Thinning the growths should be attended to at once where there is an over-abundance of shoots. Do not be too rash and take away a quantity all at once ; do the work gradually. Some bush plants and standards produce a lot of little weak shoots in the centre of the plants. Rub these off and any others that seem to be crowded. If amateurs would cut away in the autumn all the old wood, retaining merely' that made during the current summer, they would have far greater success with their plants. It is not neces- sary that a Rose plant should carry a great number of shoots. If there are two or three growths that were pro- duced last summer, and each of these bears two new shoots this season, they are quite enough for one plant to bring to perfection. If the beds appear too thin by adopting this method, then closer planting should be aimed at in the future. Green fly has become very troublesome lately. We find it a good plan to take a soft brush and go over the plants, drawing the brush gently over those shoots infested with the fly, then in the evening syringe with parafiin soap solution, using 4oz. of the soap to a gallon of soft water. Shoots that can be immersed in the solution will be thoroughly cleansed of the aphis. Tlie Rose grnh or maggot can only be dealt with by hand picking or squeezing the leaves. Usually the culprit is in the top leaves that are fastened together. A diligent search should be made at least twice a day. Liquid manure should be given once a week to Rambler Roses of all sorts, whether on walls, poles, tree stumps, or pergolas, but the Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, and Tea-scented, if they had a dressing of manure after pruning, can wait awhile before they receive the liquid manure. It is not well to give stimulants too early. If a convenient corner can be found for a heap of cow manure, and a hole dug in close proximity, the difficulty of obtaining liquid manure is solved, as the drainings from this heap stored in a tub and given half strength will supply good food for the Roses. Roses planted this spring that were not in pots should have the soil trodden firm. P. June 3, 1905.^ THE GARDEN. 331 NEW AND RARE PLANTS. A NEW PRIMULA FROM CHINA. A DISTINCT variety of the well- known garden plant, Primula japonica, called Pulverulenta, was recently shown by Messrs. James . Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. It is one of the plants newly introduced by them from Western China. The flowers are crimson, and the stems are heavily covered with a white powder. It is a showy, free- flowering plant, with leaves not unlike those of Primula denticulata. It received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society on the 9th ult. It is frequently seen in gardens, and is well with upwards of 200 blooms on it, growing worth growing for its distinct and interesting on a Fern stem 8 inches long, and a photograph appearance. of Dendrobiura thyrsiflorum, in an 8-inch pot, carrying thirty-two spikes. The plants are grown together in an ordinary plant stove. The Den- Vanda teres and Dendrobium Falconbri. drobiums are rested in a cool house, and only Mr Lovett, The Gardens, Lilburn Tower, Aln- sufficient water is given to keep the plants from wick, sends for nur table flowers of remarkably shrivelling during the resting season. Vanda rich colouring of Vanda teres, with the following teres is kept in the stove (except when in flower), and syringed twice a day during ^~^} 'k^fi^' EDITOR'S TABLE. May- FLOWERING Tulips. Messrs. Wal- lace and Co. , Kilnfield Gar- dens, Colchester, have sent a representative gathering of May - flowering Tulips, compris- ing many of the best Darwin and Cottage varie- ties, and showing well the wonder - ful range of colour now ob- tainable. Some of the finest in a splendid gather- ing of these flowers were Flame, glowing orange red ; King Harold, a finely- formed bloom, rich dark crim- son with blue- black centre ; the sweetly scented Didieri alba; Marguerite and Clara Butt, both illustrated recently by coloured plates in The Gaedem ; Primrose Gem ; Orange King , Phyllis, small, silverj' rose ; Negro, small, very dark ; Maid of Honour, cream ground, splashed and striped with deep rose ; Inglescombe Pink, rose ; Caledonia, bright red with greenish black centre ; Jaune d'CEuf, yellow flushed with rose, green centre ; Scarlet Emperor, bright red with yellow centre ; Zephyr, pale purple ; Sunset, bright yellow with red markings at the margin (very striking) ; and Gala Beauty, deep yellow, heavily marked with dark red. FORGBT-MB-NOT WITH DOUELE FLOWERS. Miss Pellysends from Bridge in Sussex a Forget- me-not with double flowers, evidently pieces of a form of Myosotis alpestris, which is known by the name of " Victoria." The habit of the plant is very compact and bushy, whilst the main flowers are nearly all of a double character. The two plants are evidently seedlings from a plant that was there the previous year, as this form reproduces itself true from seed. the growing season, and, like the Dendrobiums, it receives little water during the winter months. I make up my baskets of Vanda teres after flowering, and use nothing but sphagnum moss, a few broken crooks, and charcoal." The photographs show how well Mr. Lovett grows his plants, but, unfortunately, they are not suit- able for reproduction. Rhododendron Lady Alice FiTZWILLIAM. Mr. H. J. Clayton, The Gardens, Grimston Park, sends flowers of the sweetly-scented Rhododen- dron Lady Alice Fitzwilliam, with the following interesting note : " Amongst the many varie- ties of greenhouse Rhododendrons made available for greenhouse decoration during the past, say, thirty years, few, if any, are more valuable than the above-named variety. It is not a plant of satis- factory growth, and its flowers are of a somewhat fleeting nature. I am enclosing a few sprays cut from a plant growing in a 12 inch pot, which has about eighty flowers open. Some have been cut and some have fallen. They have a most delicious scent. Beyond seeing that each plant does not sufi'er for water the cultural re- quirements are not excessive. For soil we use a mixture of two parts tough peat to one of loam in nodules, with the loose part riddled out, and a good sprinkling ofBedford #*^•" b e f ore J using. Good drainage and firm potting are essep- tial. If the soil is keptfairly sweet there is no necessity for f re- quent re- potting. We find a sprinkling note ■ " Two spikes of Vanda teres, cut off the ' of Standen's manure given, say, twice or three basket, of which I enclose a photograph. The ' times during the growing season to be very basket was made up two years ago, some of the l beneficial after the pots are tull ot roots. Our growths are over 4 feet long, and there are ] plants are grown along with the Azaleas all the eleven flower-spikes, twenty-seven expanded I year round, being put out of doors for a time in blooms, and seventeen buds to open. I also j a sheltered place as soon as the bloom-buds for enclose a photograph of Dendrobium Falconeri, I the following year's flowers are formed. .^ S^. l^ A NEW PRIMROSE FROM CHINA— PRIMULA JAPONICA VARIETY. (Slwien by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, on the Mh ult., and given an aimed of merit.) 332 THE GARDEN. [June 3, 1905. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. THINNING GRAPES. — This most important work in Grape growing needs carefully performing ; other- wise, instead of improving the shape of the bunch and size of the berries, the opposite will be the result. The two accompanying illustrations show the appear- ance of a bunch of Grapes before and after thinning. The first thing to do in proceeding to BUNCH UNTHINNED. thin the bunch is, if necessary, lightly to loop up the upper berry stalks, or "shoulders," as they are termed. It is only in the case of loose- growing bunches, characteristic of some varieties, that this is necessary. First remove all the small seedless berries, for these will never develop into full -sized Grapes. Next remove berries where they are too thickly placed, taking care to leave those that will give a good outline to the bunch. Most of the berries inside should be cut out, for they have not such a good chance of ripening and developing the best flavour as those more favourably placed. It is difficult to say how far apart the berries should be after thinning has taken place, but, generally speaking, half an inch would be correct. Such sorts as Alicante and Wadresfield Court need more severe thinning than Black Hamburgh for instance. It is usually necessary to go over the bunches a second time finally to regulate the distance between the berries. Avoid Touching the Bunches with the head or hands. In thinning the bunch must be held by means of a thin forked stick (the fork pressed against the stalk of the bunch) with the left hand, leaving the right hand free to hold the scissors. If the stick is gently tapped with the SIMPLE HINTS, scissors the remains of the stamens are shaken out, and the worker is able to see clearly what should be done. Some care is needed to keep the head and hands away from the berries, but this is a matter not to be overlooked, or the berries will be rubbed and permanently disfigured. ! The Cucumber Frame. — Those who have a spare frame may grow a few Cucumbers through the summer without any very elaborate prepara- tions in the way of heat. There must, of course, be some heat to start the plants, but a moderate hot-bed will suffice. Cucumbers are very often planted in stuff of too light a character. To obtain sturdy, robust growth and plenty of fruits plant in turfy loam enriched with a little old manure. Keep the growth thin ; top-dress lightly from time to time to encourage the surface roots ; and pinch all shoots one leaf beyond the fruit. In the management of Melons the old leaves are important, but with Cucumbers an old leaf or two may be removed if required, as young leaves are soon developed. Ventilate a little early in the morning, and close with a sprinkling at four o'clock in the afternoon. Wall Fruit Tree's. — Probably more crops of fruit are lost from trees grown against walla through the roots getting dry than from any other cause. After a few showers of rain the amateur satisfies himself that the wall fruit trees do not need water- ing, but the fact is that rain does little good to trees trained against walls, for no great quantity ever reaches the roots. It is prevented from doing so by the leaves and shoots, and probably also by the overhanging coping of the wall. It is, then, most important to see that wall trees are thoroug;hly well watered, whether the weather is dry or showery. At the present time, when the fruits are small, they are especially liable to fall if the roots are allowed to ^ L, become dry. ^—^iss^ Importance of the Preparatory Work. — Filling a geometrical design with a few kinds of plants is now occupying many hours of the gardener's time, and, though bright and showy in its season, it is not the most interest- ing kind of gardening. But before any general collection of open-air plants can be well grown we must thoroughly understand the importance of preparing special sites for certain plants, so as to give them a chance of doing their best. To mention only a few things, Roses must have a deeply- worked and manured soil. There must be Free Drainage. — The best soil for Roses is an adhesive loam, which generally occurs on a clay base, but the clay must not crop up near the surface, or, if it does, some of it must be removed. Some years ago I made a Rose garden in Sussex, where the natural soil was blue gault of the stickiest character. After the beds were marked out the clay was dug out 3 feet deep. A deep drain was run through the centre of the garden, with a branch drain to each bed. The beds were then filled in with good loam and manure, and the result was splendid success. Some Little-known Bedding Plants. — Balsams are not much used as outdoor subjects, yet they are more efi'ective outside than under glass. They must be raised under glass, as they are tender subjects, and, when well established in small pots, they should be hardened off early in June and planted out in good soil. The best way of using them is to plant 3 feet apart over a ground- work of some contrasting plants of dwarf close habit. I have had Balsams 3 feet high in per- fection. Oibson's Castor Oil Plant. — This has dark bronzy foliage, and is very effective in sheltered places, especially against a background of dark- leaved shrubs ; planted thinly over a bottom growth of silver - leaved Geraniums the effect is striking. A broad band of Viola cornuta out- side will heighten the effect. This Viola was formerly used a good deal. It is an early spring- flowering plant, but when planted late in April or May it will continue to flower all the summer. Salvia paten-i. — What a lovely plant this makes at this season in a good-sized pot in the conservatory ! We started with a strong root in January, and as the growth advanced the plant was shifted into a larger pot until it occupied one s inches in diameter. Quite a number of young shoots started, and these were stopped all round once and the shoots used as cutting'. BDNCH THINNED. Having plenty of pot room and otherwise well nourished a good development was reached, with numerous spikes of its bright sky blue flowers. This Salvia is quite as well worth growing in a pot, if well done, as most other things which are not so effective, and, besides, more blue flowers are wanted outside. A few strong plants will be June 3, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 33^ useful later in producing seeds, which, if sown early, will make flowering plants in one season, though not, of course, equal to stronger plants. Where to Plant Violas: — Violas dislike a warm, enclosed position. Unless they have a certain amount of shade and moisture, and plenty of air, they will become of straggling growth, and the flowers will be poor and not numerous. The value of the Tufted Pansies or Violas lies in their tufted habit, but this disappears unless they are given a suitable position to grow in. Let them get the morning or evening sun only if your garden is small and enclosed by walls, for if they are planted near the latter in a warm aspect they are almost certain to become untidy, straggling, and practically flowerless. They need a fairly rich soil so as to flower well and late. In poor soil the plants become too exhausted to flower any length of time. The Neil' Golden Elder (Plumosa mirea). — Those who want golden- tinted foliage in the garden may give this a trial. Young plants set out thinly among dark- flowered Heliotropes will make a striking mass. 1 paid a guinea for the first half dozen plants several years ago, but they are cheap now. It strikes freely from cuttings of the ripe wood in autumn, and, if helped on in heat in spring, the cuttings rooted in autumn will be large enough for use in May and be in full colour. Celosias an Bedding Plants. — In warm, sheltered spots the feathery Cock's-corabs (Celosia plumosa) will make charming groups. They will come in very well after the late Tulips, when the soil has been renewed and made suitable. The Cock's- oombs must, of course, be raised in a warm frame, and be thoroughly established and hardened off before planting out about the second week in June. There is much variety in colour, but the yellow, in the dearth of good yellow flowers, will be charming. Salmon - tinted Geraniums. — We want more neutral-tinted flowers in the garden and fewer scarlets, heliotropes, whites, and pinks. Some of the salmons we hive tried are Cissiope, Ian Maclaren, Mrs. Pole Pruth, Mrs. A. H. Needs, and Gotha. The last is rather new, but the others are old sorts, and, besides being useful in the garden, they make good pot plants in the conservatory. Turn out good plants, and give them room enough. Tricolor Geraniums. — These have had their day, but those who want a change may do worse than have a bed of them in mixture with Viola oornuta. I have used them in this way. The Violas were pulled to pieces in April and planted somewhat thickly, leaving vacancies 1 foot apart for the tricolor Geraniums at the end of May. The same idea may be worked out with other plants. Red Geranium Rob Roy or any good broad-petalled zonal variety, planted thinly over Koniga maritima or any low-growing contrasting plant, will be a change. About Potatoes. — The Potato boom is over. Never again during the present generation will such fabulous prices be obtained. If there is a better early Potato than the Duke of York I have not yet seen it, and it is as good for frames as for outside. I remember the time, in the early forties, when Potatoes were sold at Is. a bushel. That was just before the dreaded fungus appeared. Now the price is very low. I have bought good Potatoes recently at 23. a bushel. This does not leave much margin of profit for the growers, but heavy-cropping varieties are grown now. I do not think the quality of Potatoes is equal to the Lapstones, Flukes, and Rough Reds we used to grow in the past. Nobody seems to grow the Regents now. We are going in more for weight and disease - resisting quality than flavour. GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. BEDS that have been devoteii to winter and spring Itedding must now be cleared, and preparations made at once for refurnishing them for a summer and autumn display. Annuals and Biknnials must be thrown away, unless a choice strain or some special trail makes it desirable to save seeds, in which case they should be care- fully lifted and transplanted, shaded, and watered, and every care taken to avoid a serious check until the seeds aie ripe. Bui.ns, as Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, &c., thai are not (luite ripe may be lifted and laid in a slightly sliady place, and kept fairly moist until the fuliage matures and falls. Then they must be harvested and duly stored away until autumn. If not considered good enuugh fur beddirtg another year, they will be acceptable and useful among shrubs in the wild garden. Pkrennial Plants should be divided and planted in good soil in the reserve ground, and well attended to as regards watering and other details until growth is again active. It is on the present season's growth and maturity that Lhe next springs display of bluom mostly depends. Cuttings of some may also be put in now, which with ordinary care will be found useful in renovating the stock, but for propagating the main stock it is too early for most, as the growth is soft and sappy. Dwarf Conifers and Shrubs that have been in beds through the winter and spring months must be thoroughly soaked, if dry, before lifting and removal, to ensure as much soil as possible adheiing to the roots. Keplant without delay in holding soil in a pa?t of the grounds set apart for the purpose. Plant at vwrying distances apari, according to the size and habits of the different varietiep, allowing ample room for their free deveb>Dment, and for air and sunshine to play around each. They will need constant attention in syringing, watering, and mulching until the roots take possession of the fresh soil. Having the beds thus clear, thuroughly clean and cultivate, enrich- ing witli well-rotted farmyard manure or a good artificial manure, according to the requirements of the various plants destined to occupy them, and bearing in mind that the preceding crop was a most exhausting one. .Sliould the soil be of too heavy a nature for some of the delicate plants employed in the summer bedding arrange- ments, the present will be a favourable time for adding leaf-mould, potting-bench refuse, road scrapings, or what- eversuir,able material isavailable, incorporating thoroughly with the staple soil. By the time these preparations are complete, let us hope the weather will be favourable for the general planting. Of late the wind has been keen (easterly), with parching sun, anything but ideal for the hardening and planting of tender plants. The Gardens, Tan-y-bwlch, North Wales. J. Roberts. ORCHIDS. Dkndrobium warihanum.— It is now nearly fifty years since plants of the beautiful Dendrobinm wardianuni were first imported into this country, and during all these years it has been a rarity to see a thoroughly established plint producing such fine flowers as are nearly always seen upon the new bulbs the fiist year or two after impor- tation. By an established plant I mean one which the grower has been successful with for five or six years, and which accordingly produces annually fine strong bulbs and large flowers. I am aware that there are some gardens wherein this Dendrobium is grown very well, but unfortu- nately they are very few. It is now cheap, and cultivators are given a fine opportunity to experiment. Probably the greatest mistakes we have made concerning the culture of this species have been in affording it a high temperature and too close an atmosphere, which have produced growths unable to bear the least check, and ([uite incapable of producing strong flowering pseudo- bulbs. I would advise growers who hitherto have been unsuccessful to try several plants in the cooler divisions, preferring the cool greenhouse or conservatory instead of the Odontoglossura house, the atmosphere of which is probably too damp for the young tender growths. I would also suggest a light position in the intermediate house, where the atmosphere is always fresh and airy. Thunias.— The following Thunias are now in bloom : T. Marshallii, T. Bensoniie, T. hrymeriana, T. veitchiana, T. alba, and T. candidissima. As soon as the flowers open arrange the plants in a cool dry part of the Cattleya house, where they will last hi beauty for some consider- able time. After the flowers fade place the plants in a cool airy place in a greenhouse, where they will receive uninterrupted light ; this will assist to ripen and mature the current season's growths. They will also ripen up well in a vinery where the Grapes are colouring, providing the vine leaves are not too dense. They will want an occasional watering at the roots as long as the leaves keep green, but when they commence to change colour it should be gradually withheld. Those plants that have missed flowering and are growing to an unreasonable length should be treated the same as those that have bloomed. Plants of the useful winter-flowering CtKLOGYNE ORISTATA and its varieties are now pushing freely both root and leaf growth. Before the shoots make much progress it is advisable thoroughly to free the old leaves from brown scale to which they are subject. Afford the plants plenty of water at the root all through the growing season. Although moisture-loving plants at the roots, they do not thrive in a stagnant atmosphere, nor too much heat. The cool part of the intermediate house is the best place for them. The warm-growing Crologyne asperata (Lowii) and C. pandurata are both flowering together with the young growths. Both plants should be kept well supplied with water at the roots until the growths are fully matured, and they should always be well protected from strong direct sunshine. C. dayana may now be afforded fresh rooting material and larger hanging pans if necessary. It grows best when suspended from the roof in the intermediate house. Burfoi-d Gardens, Dorking. W. H. White. INDOOR GARDEN. Azaleas.— The earlier plants having completed their growth, if the temperature of the house has not already been lowered, it should be done without delay preparatory to standing the plants outside. Some growers prefer keeping their plants inside all the year round, but I think if a sheltered position can be found for them outside the growths ripen better, and, consequently, flower more freely the following year. There is no more suitable place for them than a skeleton frame, where the blinds can be rolled down for an hour or two during the hottest part of the day. The plants flowering in llie cool house are almost over. Pick off seed vessels, and encourage growth by syringing and closing up the house early in the afternoon. Forced Trees and Shrubs.— These may now be arranged in the plunge beds of ashes for the summer. Syringe the plants morning and evening during dry weather. Any weak or sickly plants, if considered worth it, can be planted out in the reserve garden fur a year or two. It often saves considerable time and trouble to throw them away, buying in a few each year to keep up the stock. Azalea mollis can be bought so cheaply it is scarcely worth keeping the plants for forcing again. Planted out in the reserve garden for a year or two they will be found very useful for planting in the pleasuie grounds. Nerines. — Withhold water gradually as the leaves turn yellow. Give abundance of air, placing them on a shelf exposed to full sunlight, or in a south frame where the lights can be removed on all favourable occasions. Nerines do not require potting very frequently. When necessary it should be done just previous to flowering. Liriope spioata varikgata.— This is a very useful plant for furnishing. Now is a very suitable time for dividing and repotting the plants. Unless large plants are required, 5-inch pots will be found the most useful size. Use a compost of three parts fibrous loam, one of leaf-mould, and plenty of .sharp sand. Place in an inter- mediate house, and keep shaded for a few days. General Remarrs.— Prick olf seedling Primula sinensis into trays when large enough to handle. Place them in an intermediate liouse or pit near the glass. Cyclamen are growing freely ; pot on into 5-inch or G-inch pots according to size. Use a compost of loam, leaf-mould, dried cow manure, or Thompson's Plant Manure, and sand. Keep the corm slightly raised above the surface of the soil, or when watering it is apt to cause the young leaves and flowers to damp off. Insert cuttings of Salvia splendens for lloweiing in Ginch pots. Pot on specimen Caladiums if still larger plants are required. The later flowering Epacris are breaking freely ; finish any repotting necessary without delay. For autumn and early winter flowering insert a few cuttings of white and yellow Marguerites. Continue to pot on such things as Bouvar- dias, Lantanas, and Fuchsias. An early batch of each may be allowed to flower. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. A. OSBORN. FRUIT GARDEN. Late Strawberries in Pots.— If there is to be no break in the supply of fruit between the indoor and outdoor crops, much care will be necessary in timing the last batch of plants in pots. There is always a big demand for fruit at this time of year, and very often there is a blank between the two crops. No effort should be spared to further the success of this batch, which is one of the most valuable of the whole season. Nothing is better than a cold frame, in which the pots should have been plunged in leaves. This will considerably reduce the necessity of too much watering. These plants may carry ten or twelve fruits, and finish them perfectly. Each truss of fruit must be properly staked, so that there will be no danger of break- ing. Do not expose the fruits to the direct rays of the sun, but leave them partially shaded with their foliage, which will greatly facilitate swelling. La Grosse Sucr^e and Waterloo are very suitable varieties for this purpose, the latter producing very handsome fruits when well grown. Young plants from which the early runners for forcing are to be obtained should have their fiowers removed and be mulched with short litter. Give them plenty of water if the weather continues dry. The Orchard House.— The final thinning of Peaches and Nectarines and other stone fruits must not he delayed when stoning is finished. Guard against overcropping, which is a mistake in the culture of fruit trees in pots, and is sure to cause disappointment. The trees will now need copious supplies of water at the root. Diluted liquid manure and Le Fruitier may be given frequently. Mulch the pots with some rich material, and encourage the fruits in every way to swell freely. The syringe must be freely used morning and afternoon. Occasionally syringe the trees with soft soapy water to keep them clean. Should aphis become troublesome, fumigate lightly with XL All. Thinning the growths and pinching will need constant attention, especially where strong shoots are taking the lead. Cut back all fruitless branches to the first growth. 334 THE GARDEN [June 3, 1905. MORELLO Chekuies.— Unlike other varieties, the Morello Cherry produces its fruit on the previous year's growth, its growth and training being identical with that of the Peach. The trees are well adapted for training, and will amply repay the attention bestowed on them. Sufficient of the best-placed shoots should be selected, and carefully tied in. Avoid overcrowding, as this tends to a general weakening of the tree, and is prejudicial to obtaining crops of tine large fruits. The Cherry is very subject to the attacks of black tly, which are very destructive, and hard to dislodge when fairly established. Tobacco water is an effective remedy when applied in time. Sfee that the trees are well supplied with moisture at the root. Newlv-grafted Trees. —The clay must be removed from trees which are making good progress, and the ties loosened. The grafts must be again retied and supported with stakes, which should be firmly secured. Rub otf all growths from the stocks as they appear. E. HvVKRISS. Fruit Department, Roi/al Gardens, Wiiidsor. KITCHEN GARDEN. Broccoli.— Sowings of Sutton's Standwell, Late Queen, and June Monarch should now be made. Here the two first-named varieties have kept up a constant supply ail through iray. The heads, though not of any great size, h:ive been faultless in colour and of excellent flavour. .Tune Monarch is now turning in, and promises to maintain its well-earned reputation as a late Broccoli. Seeds of these three varieties were sown, not very thickly, at this date last year on an open border. The young plants, as soon as they had developed two or three rough leaves, were slightly thinned in the seed rows ; during dry weather waterings were given occasionally uutil they were planted out. This process took place in the first week of August, the ground chosen for the purpose being an old Straw- berry bed trenched two spits deep, and levelled and trodden before the plants were put in. Weeds were scrupulously kept down, and the surface of the soil frequently stirred with the Dutch hoe. This compara- tively small amount of attention secured the above satis- factory results. Last year, by way of experiment, I at the sume date made a sowing of Snow's Winter Broccoli, which under the same conditions and treatment turned in splendidly in April. Turnips.— Most cooks will object to large Turnips, as experience will have taught them that such vegetables are almost sure to be hollow in the centre, coarse-fleshed, and "f inferior flavour. Smaller and more delicately flavoured Turnips can easily be obtained under favourable condi- lions. For this purpose I find it best to make sowings of Turnips on ground that has had no manure for at least twelve months, but which has been well manured previous to this for the growing of autumn Broccoli or a similar crop. Oround of this kind, having been deeply dug when the last year's crop was cleared off, will now be in fine order for growing Turnips, and will only require to be stirred up with that invaluable article, the Dutch hoe. If this operation is performed after a shower of rain a mould as fine as meal can be obtained, and it is essential for small seeds, such as Turnips, that the mould be made very fine to ensure satisfactory germination. For the production of serviceable, sweet-flavoured, medium-sized Turnips Sutton's Snowball, though recommended as a .spring Turnip, will, I have found, answer all these require- ments when grown as a summer vegetable. Sutton's Red Globe is also a splendid summer Turnip, which grows rapidly to a useful size with a flavour all that can be desired. Sow the Turnip seeds sparingly and not too deep. If the weather is dry damp the soil in the bottom of the drills with a watering-can before sowing. As soon as the seedlings appear dust well with lime to keep the Turnip fly at bay. CABiiAUES.— These, like Turnips, are most appreciated when young and of medium size. A sowing of Sutton's Imperial should now be made, and these should be nicely hearted and ready to make an agreeable change early in Ssptember. Savoys. — A gjod sowing of this useful vegetable must not be omitted at this date. Eirly I'lm and Green Curled are both good autumn and early winter varieties. Their compact habit will also recommend thera to growers whose space is limited. J. Jeffrey. The Gardetis, St. Mary's Isle, Eirkcxtdhright. ORCHIDS. ORCHIDS AT FRIAR PARK. TO describe the features of the magnifi- cent gardens at Friar Park, Henley- on-Thames, the residence of F. Crisp, Esq., whose enthusiasm in horticulture is boundless, as is also that of his able head gardener, Mr. P. 0. Knowlea, volumes would need to be written. But naturally where all sections of horticulture receive such admirable care and attention, as is the case here, an inspection of the houses devoted to the cultivation of Orchids is deeply interesting, particularly so on the occa- sion of a recent visit. This collection is rich in many of the better-known varieties, but it is doubly interesting owing to the collection of the rarer Orchids that are cultivated absolutely for their owner's pleasure, and their great botanical interest in particular, quite apart from their money value. Taking, first of all, the cool house with its varied display of Odontoglossums, including many choice and handsome forms of 0. crispum, which at the present time are making a good display. Then in pleasing contrast with these are to be seen many fine specimens of 0. Pescatorei. Other kinds in bloom at the present time are 0. Halli, 0. triumphans, and the fragrant 0. Edwardii, with its rich purple flowers showing up well against the larger blossoms of the white varieties. Other fine species and various kinds occupy positions among the Odonto- glossums, the rich acarletof the Sophronitis grandi- tlora lending a brilliancy that would be ditticult to excel, while the pale yellow flowers of the many fine plants of Oncidium concolor are a most striking displaj-. Here, too, are to be seen flowering in great profusion many good specimens of Misdevallias, prominent amongst them being that great favourite, M. Shultleworthi, with its spotted contrasting sepals of yellow and rose- purple, also the very striking coloured M. Chestertoni, noticeable for its large, attractive labellum. M. ignea, too, is very much in evidence with its bright orange crimson blooms. Masdevallias make a most charming contrast with Odontoglossums. Passing on to the Orchids requiring 'a rather higher temperature, we had the extreme pleasure of seeing the very rare Eriopsis rutidobulbon in perfection, the long, arching spikes carrying handsome flowers of a most distinct colour of orange yellow, with reddish purple margins ; the white front portion of lip, with its deep purple spots, is a very distinct feature of this richly coloured Orchid. In the Cattleya range there were already in bloom fine plants of Cattleya Aclandife, with its quaint greenish colouring and deep purple markings, against which the lip of bright ro:e shows most pleasingly. Cattleya Skinneri, too, carrying many fine flowers, and many others, making a fine display, with very handsome Lielias, Laslia grandis being specially delightful with its yellow sepals and petals and beautiful rosy veined, cream-coloured lip. Miltonia vexillaria is well represented, and few Orchids make a finer display ; the free-blooming character of the genus is well brought out in the plants under notice. Coming to the Dindro- biums, we find D. chrysotoxum laden with its gracefully drooping, golden yellow flowers, making a fine display ; also D. nobile in magnifi- cent plants, giving a wealth of bloom which hardly any other Orchid can equal, while here also were tall-growing species of D. moschatum, which, with its fine yellow sepals and deep maroon blotch on lip, makes it a very distinct and worthy species. Of the many and interest- ing botanical specimens a very fine plant of Pleurothallis macroblepharis (the Gnat Orchid) claims our attention, also one of Megacliuium imschootianum, a curious little species with small greenish yellow flowers dotted with brown, set regularly on the flattened flower-scape peculiar to this genus ; Cirrhnpetalum o'brieni- anum, with pale yellow and maroon-coloured flowers, together with many other equally interesting, to give a full description of which would occupy more space than is at our com- mand ; but the whole collection is one of great merit, and one to which we hope to have the pleasure of referring on some future occasion. Too few collections are to be found nowadays, selections are the rule, the majority of collectors going in for a few genera only, while the mag- nificent Saccolabiums, ^'Erides, Angra'cum, Oncidium, &e., which were the glory of old exhibitors and the admiration of everj'one, are now hardly to be found. We therefore feel a double debt of gratitude to any patron of horti- culture who takes up the collecting of a collec- tion as Mr. Crisp does. In his Odontoglossum house were a few pots in magnificent growth and blossom of the European alpine Orchids, which were very attractive, and so intensely interesting by contrast with the natives of the far countries of the south, east, and west. The very old and interesting favourites comprising Catasetums, Cj'cnoches, Mormodes, &c., have here a corner for themselves, and thrive admirably. Arudtus. A NEW CUCUMBER. Cucumber Aristocrat is the latest variety to receive an award of merit from tlie Royal Horticultural Society's fruit and vegetable ^ i ^i NEW CUCUMBER — ARISTOCRAT. committee. It was shown by Mr. S. Mortimer on the 9th ult., at the e.xhibition in the Horti- cultural Hall, Vincent Square. It is a long, rather slender and smooth Cucumber, of very good shape and quality. Mr. Mortimer has since exhibited another new Cucumber, called Delicacy, obtained by crossing the varieties Matchless and Aristocrat. This is a shorter fruit, very dark green, and carries a splendid bloom. It has been given a certificate by the Royal Botanic Society and an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural Society. June 3, 1905.] THE GAEDEN. 335 STOVE &. GREENHOUSE. FLOWEKS FOR HANGING BASKETS. [Reply to "E. N. R."] « YOUR question gives no idea of the posi- tion the basket is to occupy, hence we will deal first of all with what may be called the mechanical part of the matter, and next give selections of plants suitable for various purposes. In order to inll a wire basket it must first of all be thoroughly lined with, if possible, large closely- woven flakes of mosa, which in some districts are readily obtainable. Failing this moss, thin turves with the grassy side outward may be employed ; but, in any case, the object is to form the basket into a basin-like receptacle, whose sides are sutB- ciently matted together to prevent any of the soil escaping. It is then an easy matter to plant the selected subjects in the prepared bisket, using soil in just the same way as in potting a plant. In order to facilitate watering, the soil must be kept somewhat below the rim of the basket, and a little thin moss laid over the top and held in position by a few pegs will prevent any of the surface soil being washed off in watering. This last is, of course, a most important item in the case of hanging baskets, and, if they are not too large, a good plan is to occasionally take them down and immerse in a tub, or some other receptacle, in order to allow the whole of the soil to become thoroughly saturated. If the basket is needed for the greenhouse, or to hang in the verandah during the summer months, there is a wide choice of plants available for the purpose, prominent among them being Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, par- ticularly those of a more pronounced trailing habit. The zonal section of Pelargoniums, too, will flower well under such conditions ; but, of course, they are without the grace and elegance of the trailing kinds, though in very large baskets they are sometimes used for the centre, and the drooping varieties around the edge. Tuberous Begonias, too, especially the looser-growing forms with medium-sized flowers, are seen to great advan- tage when treated as basket plants ; and in an elevated position the more pendulous forms of Fuchsia have an extremely pretty effect. Besides these, single-flowered Petunias, which can be raised from seed, will flower throughout the summer ; and much the same may be said of the climbing Tropieolums of the lobbianum section. Lobelia speciosa also does well in hanging baskets, as also do the pendulous forms of Campanula and the popular Creeping Jenny. For a moderately shaded greenhouse Aehimenes are very beautiful when grown in this way, and, where the degree of humidity is sufficient for their well doing. Ferns make delightful basket plants. A few of the best for such a purpose are : Adiantum atfine cristatum, A. amabile, A. eunea- tum grandiceps, Davalliasof sorts, Goniophlebium subauriculatum, Gymnogramme schizophylla gloriosa, Nephrolepis of sorts, Platyoerium alcicorne, Pteris longifolia, P. serrulata and varieties, with Woodwardia radieans. Many of the Selaginellas, too, are very suitable for the same treatment, while other foliage subjects that may be named are Panicum variegatum, Asparagus Sprengeri, Ficus minima, F. radieans variegata, and F. repens. HEDEROMA TULIPIFERA. I HAVE heard good plantsmen say that the man who can grow this well can grow anything. As a fact, I doubt if any plant taxes the skill and patience more than this. It is not in the earlier stages of growth that the great difficulty is experienced ; the young plants grow away freely enough. It is later on, when they get into what is termed the three-quarter exhibition size, that disappointment occurs. Just as one has got a well-balanced specimen it is vexatious to see here and there a branch die, or perhaps the whole plant collapse, without being able in any way to render help. It is curious that no remedy should ever have been found for this mysterious disease, which has baffled generations of hard- wooded plant growers. Both H. tulipifera and its congener fuchsioides are very liable to be killed off in this way. Erica Massoni, one or two of the Piraelias, Acrophyllum venosum, and several other of the choicest hard-wooded things are very liable to attack. The collapse generally occurs in winter, when the vital powers are at their lowest. Like all the choicer members of the large family of hard-wooded greenhouse plants, the Hederomas require the best peat that can be obtained. This should never be chopped, but be pulled to pieces, adding one-sixth of sharp silver sand. Young plants should be potted just before growth commences in spring, potting rather firmly, and giving good drainage. Specimen plants must be dealt with at the close of the blooming season. In repotting them a great deal of care is needful ; the soil must be neither wet nor dry, but just in the condition that will allow of its being pressed in firmly round the roots. The old ball of soil must be in the same state of moisture as the compost, which must be worked in firmly with a thin piece of wood. Watering must be very carefully done, especially in the resting time, strict attention being given that the soil does not become quite dry in hot weather. After potting keep rather close for a time. Byfleet. J. C. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— rAe Editor intends to make The Oakden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the " Answers to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely wi-itten on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 5, Southampton Street, Strand, London. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the Publisher. Tlie name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When inore than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Legral Points.— Tfe are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as clear and explicit as possible, so that there can be no doubt as to the point of the question. Answers will be found in a separate column headed "Legal Points." Diseased Abies nobilis {A. (?.). — The cause of the disease that has attacked your Abies nobilis is not very well understood. It is sup- posed to be oaHSed by a minute insect, and scientists are at present investigating the matter. When once it attacks a plant the latter should be destroyed, and so stop the disease from spread- ing. We know of an affected tree that has been syringed several times annually with soft soap and paraffin for the last twelve years ; this has stopped the disease from spreading, but has not killed it outright. If you have but one affected tree it would be advisable to burn it. EuoHARis Leaves Destroyed (Perplexed). — The Eucharis leaves sent have apparently been scorched by the sun's rays, which, owing to their thin texture, would quickly injure them. Leaves in the condition of those sent indicate a poor state of the roots, and the white fluff spoken of is probably that form of mealy bug which attacks the roots of plants. The better way to deal with your plants of Eucharis is to turn them out of their pots and shake off all the old soil, then hold the bulbs under a tap of running water till every root is washed absolutely clean, after which lay them out for half an hour or so to drain. When the roots are washed you will be able to ascertain their condition exactly, and it is more than pro- bable you will find many of them decayed. All of these must be cut off, leaving only the quite sound roots attached to the bulbs, after which they should be repotted. For this purpose care must be taken not to have pots too large, and in all probability they may be considerably cmaller than those in which the plants have been growing, for the all-important item is to encourage healthy root action, which can never take place if they are surrounded by a Urge mass of soil. The pots must be clean and effectually drained, a suitable potting compost being two parts good yellow loam, one part leaf-mould, with one part, or nearly so, of silver sand. In potting, the bulbs should be put at such a depth that the upper part or crown is just on a level with the surface of the soil, which must be pressed down moderatel3- firm. When finished, place the plants in a stove where a minimum night temperature of 60'^ is main- tained. They must be shaded from the sun's rays, and care taken not to over water ; at all events, till the roots are again active, though a liberal amount of atmospheric moisture is very beneficial. As new roots develop and take possession of the soil, the foliage will gradually assume a more healthy tint, and become firmer in texture, two very necessary items before you can hope for flowers. You do not say what sized pots your Eucharis are growing in, but good flowering examples may be had in pots 6 inches in diameter, though, of course, when full of roots larger ones will be needed. Still, once in pots 7 inches or 8 inches in diameter they will stand for years, and keep in good health without re- potting, but a little stimulant in the shape of weak liquid manure and soot water will be beneficial. For large pots it is an advantage to mix some nodules of charcoal about the size of Hazel nuts with the soil, as it tends to keep the compost sweet. Healthy plants do not need as much shading as recommended for your sickly ones, but in any case they require protection from the full rays of the sun. Very little fire-heat is needed in the summer, but a minimum winter tempera- ture of 55" should be maintained. Deepening the Colour of Flowers (lynoramiis). — The best method of giving plants iron is to place a quantity of iron filings, old nails, or pieces or fragments of iron in a small tub or cask, and to fill this with water. In time this water will become of a deep red colour Ih may then he added to plain water in sufficient quantity to make this of a light yellow colour. The plants may be watered continuously with this, so that every watering will contain a certain proportion of iron solution. Some advocate the introduction of iron filings into the soil in which the plants are potted, but the iron solution is the preferable plan. Flowers for Shady and Windy Place {W. S. W.). — The place indicated is'somewhat unsuitable for flowering plants, as few will flourish under such conditions. Hardy British Ferns would be the most appropriate for such a place, with bulbous plants, as Snowdrops, Glory of the Snow, and the white, pink, and blue forms of Scilla bispanica planted in between for spring effect. Other things which would do in such a place, providing that there is sufficient moisture, and that the overhanging trees are not too thick, are Primroses, Cowslips, and the many coloured forms of Polyanthus. Among the taller-growing things which might he tried, there is the Monk's- hood (Aconitum Napellus) and the variety bicolor, as well as several other species. Some of the Campanulas also like a shady place, doing much better and lasting longer in flower than when planted in full sun. The best for this would be C. macrantha and C. rapunculoides, with C. Trachelium, Geranium sylvaticum, the Lenten Roses (Helleborus orientalis), of which there are many pretty varieties, and some of the Liliums, such as L. pyrenaicum and L. Martagon, might also be tried. It would be best to start with plants, as seeds would prove unsatisfactory. 336 THE GARDEN. [June 3, lyu5. Nectarine Leaves Diseased (C. Gallon). — Our eorreapondeut's Neclarintm iiad Peaches are sulTeriDg from a disease which ia common to those trees when the weather is cold early in the season, as it has been this year. TIio disease is caused by a fungus commonly called the Peach tree blister. The trees usually affected by it are generally not in the most robust state of health, and a recurrence of the malady the following year is probible unless the trees are partly or wholly taken up in autumn and replanted in good fresh loamy soil. This done, new vigour will be given the trees and immunity from disease as a consequence. As regards the best treatment to give the trees liuring the coming summer in order to enable them to develop and mature their crop, we would advise that the worst affected of the leaves be picked off and burnt. They would wither and fall off soon, and in the meantime probably help to spread the disease to other parts of the tree. New and healthy leaf growth must be encouraged by syringing the trees morning and evening of warm days, and by occasional wateringn of weak manure water. A light mulch of fresh liorse manure, or some other good manure available, should be placed over the roots about 2 inches thick. This will keep the roots comparatively cool and prevent too rapid evaporation. Clematis iioNTAfrA Failing (A. i/.). -It is impossible to give a reason for your Clematis montana failing to produce perfect blossoms. In those you send the petals are only rudimentary, the anthers alone being of proper size. As you say your plant is in robust health, lack of vigour is evidently not the cause of this malformation, which has never been brought to our notice before. The fact that it is planted on a pergola, and thus more exposed to the action of the wind than if it was grown against a wall, cannot, as you suggest, be the cause of the petals failing to develop, as we know several instances of this Clematis flowering well on pergolas in cold and exposed localities. Besides, wind does not reduce the size of the petals, but merely blackens them. We are inclined to think that the fault lies with the individual plant, and that wherever it was grown it would bear similar blossoms. ^Ve should, therefore, advise you to root it up and plant another in its place. Yew Hedge (C. C. D.). — It is difficult to say exactly what ia the matter with the Yew, as there may be several reasons for its failure, and without seeing it we cannot do more than guess at the cause. The Yew is a long-lived plant, and your hedge should now be in condition, but the sickly look shows that there is somethiDg wrong with the roots. We should advise you to open the ground up on each side of the hedge and examine the roots, taking care not to injure them more than can possibly be helped, and not allowing them to get too dry or be exposed to the SMn. You will, probably find the lower roots decayed and bad, and that fresh roots are being made near the surface. The soil taken out should be replaced by a mixture of good turfy loam and well-rotted stable manure in the proportion of three parte loam to one of manure, laying the sound roots out separately, and covering them with some of the finest of the fresh soil first. The final level of the new soil should be from 4 inches to 6 inches deeper than it was before, to allow for sinking, and also to encourage the surface roots, which will help the hedge to recover itself. The whole should be trodden as tightly as possible after being filled in. It is getting rater late to disturb the roots of the hedge, but, as it ia in a bad way, it is better to do it now than wait until the autumn. „You should not attempt to work under- neath the plants, but start some little distance away and work back towards the hedge, using a fork instead of a spade to avoid cutting the roots. A Holly hedge that came under our notice lately had been spoiled and partly killed by a leakage in a gas main about '20 feet away, which had killed the roots and poisoned the soil so that the whole had to be replaced. Cockchafer gruba are very prevalent in some parts of Surrey, and cause great damage to many plants by eating the roots. These are of a yellowish white colour, and of nearly the size and l-;agth of a little finger when developed. There is no cure for them except to searcli thum out and destroy them. Rose W. A. Richardson Pegged Down { Bead). This favourite Rjse may be successfully pegged down, and its growths will be covered with buds. You should bo careful to tie down only such shoots as are well ripened, the other growths being cut back hard, and will thus provide a suc- cession of bloom upon upright growths. Although we are able to assure you that this Rose may be pegged down, we do not advocate the practice unless a very dwarf bed is required, as by far the best results are obtained when the plants are pruned as dwarf bushes. Leave the annual growths about '2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches long, and shorten back the laterals in the older growths, and you will have a grand display of the orange buds and blossoms. It is well to discard some of the oldest shoots each season. This induces the plants to keep up a succession of new growths from the base, and thus the youthful condition of the plants Is maintained. Clematis indivisa not flowering (O. T.). — Thin out some of the growths at once, and spread out the others as much as possible so as to allow the sun to ripen the shoots. This Clematis needs to be well ripened before flowers can be expected. Those who exhibit this beautiful subj.'ct as a pot plant usually place the plants in a frame during the summer, the lights, of course, being kept off. As your plant is set out in the border you cannot do this, but you could give it abundance of air, and keep it rather dry for a week or two during the summer. This, with the thinning out we advocate above, should enable you to obtain a good display of flowers next spring. On no account cut the plant back now. You can thin out shoots so that one is trained beneath each sash-bar. This would enable you to give the Chrysanthemums sufficient light. Hollyhocks during Winter (C. T.). — If your soil is not very damp you can winter the plants of Hollyhocks without much risk. A few of the plants may succumb to the weather, but the majority will survive. It is a good plan to draw a little dry soil to them, or burnt earth, during October. Whilst you can bring the Hollyhock safely through the winter, we should advise you to sow some seeds each spring, as by far the finest flowers are obtained from young plants. We usually sow the seed outdoors in May. They are thinned out and kept in the seed-bed until the following spring, when they are set out. It is a good practice to cut away the flowering stem as soon as all blossoms have developed, as, naturally, a plant that runs to seed is considerably weakened in its efforts to support the seed. If you have any special kind you wish to propagate from, you must mark such plants whilst in bloom so that the seed may be saved. Rose Buds with Green Centres (iT'.S'.jl.Z?.). Some varieties of Roses are peculiarly addicted to this malformation, for instance. Mile. Annie Wood. Rarely does one obtain a bloom of this otherwise good Rose without a green centre. But this is not the habit of the Rose you have sent, as usually the buds of this excellent variety, Mrs. Paul, develop into charming flowers. We can only assume that the plant has received some check in its growth, or too strong doaee of liquid manure have been given. We should say the trouble arises from the former. Perhaps if you disbudded the plant, taking away the centre one on each shoot, you would find the side buds develop all right. Next year we should advise a very moderate amount of pruning so as to give more work for the roots to do. We have had great success with this Rose pegged down, and also as a pillar Rose. Either of these two methods would probably check the trouble with green centres in the future. Chrysanthemum Disease {Chry-iantkemum Leans). — We cannot find the slightest trace of lust on the Chrysanthemum leaves sent, and certainly no sign of the maggot or leaf miner. The specimens sent have every appearance of being over-fed with manure, either through potting in too rich a compost, or applying it after. The plant should besomewhat starved, and all the air possible given them, but these will require extreme care when placed in the open to prevent them being injured by frost or cold cutting winds. Trees Dying {G. i?.).— There is little, it any, chance of reuovatmg jour plants of Arbor Vil:eor Cypress, for it ia difKoult to say positively which ihey are. Still, as transplanting cannot be done till the autumn, it will be necessary to wait till then before filling their places, and in the mean- time you might try the effects of giving them a good soaking of water occasionally, as we have often found trees of thia class when fallen into ill - health to be suffering from the effects of drought. Failing these attempts at revival, it will be neceaaary to substitute others in the autumn. If you still wish for an evergreen of the aame class, by far the best is Liweon'a Cypreaa (Cupressus lawsoniaua), which can be bought cheaply, ia very accommodating, and keepa its colour well. Of large flowering shrubs or small trees you have a considerable choice, though we should not recommend Rhododendrons for the purpose. They are not likely to succeed under the conditions you name, and, beaidea this, thej' grow very slowly. All the following are very beautiful, and would suit your purpose : Laburnum, whose pendulous racemes of golden- coloured blossoms are surpassed in elegance by no other tree ; Pyrua apectabilis flore-pleno, a charming member of the Apple family, with aemi-double rosy red bloasoms ; Viburnus Opulua sterile (Guelder Rose), large rounded heads of white flowers in May ; Spinea ariajfolia, a shrub that reaches a height of 10 feet to 12 feet, which about midaummer is profusely laden with plume-like masses of creamy flowers ; Paul's Scarlet Thorn, known to everyone for its rich- ness of colouring ; or a couple of good Lilacs, say, Marie Legraye, pure white, and Souvenir de L. Spath, deep purplish red. Berberia Dirwini, a denae bush reaching a height of 6 feet to S feet, bears its orange-coloured flowers in great pro- fusion during the month of May. Thia last has the additional merit of being an evergreen. - Growing Diplacus olutinosus {Oliver). — Diplacus glutinosua only needs the treatment given to the general run of greenhouse plants. Your young plant that shrivelled up in the way mentioned must have been grown in a close, shady position, otherwise it would not have collapsed so suddenly. In order to grow Di placus glutinosua in a cool greenhouse, it should be given much the same treatment as a Fuchsia, that ia to aay, beginning with young planta in 3-inch pots at thia aeaaon, they should as soon as suffioieutly rooted be potted into pots 5 inches in diameter, and while they will flower well in this size, the more vigoroua ones may with advantage be ahifted into 6-inch or even 7-inch pota. A reaaonable amount of shading during the hottest part of the day is beneficial, but, at the same time, thia itiuat not be overdone, other- wise the plants will draw up weak, with but few flowers, and even these will be pale in colour. With regard to the compost, a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand is very suitable, and you need not trouble in the least because you have no decayed cow manure. Do not uae horae manure or mix Clay's Fertilizer with the soil, but when the plants are well established, and the pota furnished with roots, a slight top-dressing of Clay's Fertilizer once a month during the flowering season will be beneficial.^ Throughout the winter the planta must be kept moderately dry and free from frost, then in the spring, with increased moisture and warmth, they will grow away freely. The young shoots produced at that period itrike root readily. June 3, 1905.] THE GARDEN. Vll, Makino a Walk with Beach Pebbles {J. H. Gf.).— Small pebbles such as skoBe obtained from the sea-beach are quite unsuitable for making a firm path, and the only way of binding them together to make it so would be to use cement and sand just as concrete is made. This, however, would prove somewhat expensive, and give the garden the appearance of a suburban back yard. Tar paths are also sometimes made by mixing tar with ashes and beating the whole down firmly and evenly. These are both poor substitutes for gravel in laying out gardens, as well as more expensive, and it should be possible to obtain gravel within a reasonable distance of the place, if only sufiicient to give the paths a thin surface coating. Names of Plants.— Burt, Horsmo«(ie.— The Tree Pioony is Eeine Elizabeth. A. P.— Tlie Bird Clierry (Prunus Padus). J. N., Bagshot.—l, Judas Tree (Cercis Siliquaatrum) ; 2, Ceanothus azureus. W. Jf.—l, Saxi- traga hypnoides ; 2, Pyrua spectabilis ; 3, Double Meadow Saxifraga (Saxifrasa granulata fl.-pl.). Veld.—l, Gera- nium phseum ; 2, Valerianella olitoria ; 3, Senecio Tulgaris. A. J. Sampson.— 1, Dr&basAzoidea ; 2, Veaicariautricu- lata ; 3, Cardamlne trifolia ; 4, Viola Skylark (?). We cannot undertake to name floriats' varieties of flowers. L. Gibb.—l, Odontoglossum Rossi majus ; 2, Lissoohilus Krebsi, of which L. Srsefel ia a synonym ; 3, Sedum dendroideum ; 4, Lamium maculatum ; 5, shrivelled up ; 6, Sedum Sieboldii variegatum. Reginald Rankin.— Spircea chamsedrlfolia. Name of Fktjit. — Z>r. Watson.— The Apple la Lord Derby. GARDENINQ APPOINTMENT. Mk. W. J. Jennings, until recently head gardener at Oakwood Grange, Ockley, Surrey, and previously at Kew, has been appointed gardener at the new Middlesex County Asylum, near St. Albans. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. FINAL POTTING. FOR giving the majority of Chrysanthe- mums cultivated for specimen flowers their final potting, the first week in June is generally the most suitable time. Though from various causae one may not be able to proceed with the work for another week or more, little harm will happen to the plants if they are carefully watered and allowed plenty of space to prevent a drawn growth. To keep them in a healthy and growing state it will be advisable to apply weak stimulants when pot bound about every other watering. Farmyard manure liquid well diluted, with soot added, is perhaps better at this season than anything else. I have known plants treated thus, and not potted till quite the end of June, produce exhibition flowers of the finest quality and winning the highest award. Providing every attention is paid them, it will be then ample time for the plants to do all that is required of them. Compost. — The enthusiastic Chrysanthemum cultivator always looks well ahead, and he will have got a good stock of the best possible loam available, which will have been cut and built up in heaps, grass downwards, some six months ago. As is known to everyone, this is the most im- portant item in connexion with the mixture to be used at this season. Quite three parts of the compost should be composed of this. Unfor- tunately, this varies very much throughout the country, and in some localities it is extremely dilBcult to procure. That of a medium texture, being neither too heavy nor too light, should be procured as far as possible, and when one has to deal with that of a clayey nature lighter material must be added. Accordingly only one part of finely-sifted horse manure and good leaf-mould should be added, with a sufficient quantity of finely-broken mortar rubble and clear road or river sand to render it sufficiently porous for the water to percolate freely, and, in addition, add to every two bushels one 6-inch potful of bone- meal, Thompson's Plant Manure, and finely broken charcoal. The loam should not be sifted or chopped, but pulled into small pieces with the hand, retaining all the fibre possible, and taking out every earthworm visible. The whole should be well mixed by turning it several times, and it is beat prepared several days before it is used. Size of Pot. — In my opinion too much pot room is generally allowed, and I consider 8-inch pots sufficiently large for the majority, but a few of th« more robust will perhaps be benefited by a size larger, and the more delicate and weaker growing ones by a size smaller. Needless to say, the pots and crocks should be made perfectly dry before use, and when new pots are used thoroughly soak and dry them the day previous. Draixaqb. — Without doubt this is one of the most important items to be observed in successful Chrysanthemum culture, and there are probably more failures owing to this than from any other cause. A free water course must always be maintained, and it is not the quantity but the way it is placed and protected in the pot that will ensure this. It cannot be too strongly emphasised on all our young gardeners, though it b»only crocking pots, that it is one of the mot important phases in good plant culture in pots, and requires more practice to become efficient in this than is generally supposed. After the crocking is accomplished many are content to select a few of the roughest pieces from the com- post, place them on the drainage, and think they have done all that is required in this respect. Instead of this the best fibre should be got from the loam heap, remove all the fine particles of soil by running it through the sieve, placing sufficient carefully over the crocks to prevent the soil mixing with it, and, providing worms are rigorously excluded, the drainage should be as perfect after the flowering season when turned out as it is on the day of potting. The plants should be carefully tested an hour or two before turning them out, and thoroughly water where required. Pot very firmly, and apply a good stake to each plant before leaving the potting shed. See that all are correctly labelled, damp over the surface with a fine rose water-can, and arrange in beds in a sheltered position, standing them fairly close together. Syringe frequently in bright weather to assist the plants to recover as speedily as possible from the slight check that they must have received. About three or four days after potting much will depend on the weather as to the exact date. Thoroughly water in the plants, filling up the pots three or four times, making quite certain that every part of the soil becomes well moistened, and, after the plants are beginning to show signs of active growth, remove and arrange in their summer quarters. Green fly will sure to be trouble- some in the points of the young growths at this season, and at least once a week these should receive a thorough dusting with tobacco powder during the evening, well syringing out the follow- ing morning. The leaf-miner frequently does a aonsiderable amount of damage to the lower leaves at this season of the year, consequently apply fresh soot to prevent the fly laying its eggs, but immediately the maggot is discerned working between the tissues of the leaves it should be picked out with a sharp-pointed stick, doing as little damage as possible in the operation. Trainbd Specimen Plants. — These also should now receive their final shift. Attend to the necessary training and tying, and a few days after these should be arranged in a fairly shel- tered but open and sunny position, so that a short-jomted growth can be made and the shoots thoroughly ripened. Allow ample room between each, so that one can move freely about them without doing damage. Every care should be taken to retain every leaf possible, and that of the healthiest description, to the last. This can only be achieved by paying strict attention to watering and keeping them free from fungus and insect pests. Elttree. E. Beckett. NURSERY GARDENS. AT SPRING CABBAGE TEIALS READING. BEING much interested in spring Cabbage, and having noticed a con- siderable amount of running to seed I this season, I gladly accepted an invi- tation from Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, to see their spring Cabbage trials a few weeks ago. The trial grounds are well out of Reading, on high land, and thoroughly exposed. The soil is very poor, stony and light. For some years in The Garden I have noted the importance of care in the seeding of Brassicas, and this is not easy even in a large seed ground. The seeds are not all grown in the Reading ground, but the stock is selected and grown there first, and then in other grounds. This is of great importance to the future grower, as it is im- possible to expect the best results from a poor stock or one that has been at all neglected ; indeed, this is a most important point to growers, as when failures occur after growing the plants for many months it is difficult to make up losses. This year spring Cabbage failed badly in many gardens, quite 50 per cent, went to seed in one place. A friend in the West of England told me that quite 75 per cent, had failed to heart in, and this brings me to the point. I place a goodly portion of these losses to poor stocks. I admit there may be other causes, but after seeing the Reading trials I am more convinced than ever of the value of true seed. Several acres were under cultivation, and as earliness ia an impor- tant point in this respect the first noted waa Sutton's April. When I saw the plants in April they were compact, with close hearts, perfect models as regards shape. There were forty-two trial rows, with fourteen plants in each row, and not a single plant had run to seed. Closely following these were eighty-eight rows planted for seed, that is, the plants for stock purposes. Here again not a single plant was wrong, and this out of so many hundreds of plants showed to what perfection these trials are brought. The next batch on trial was Sutton's Flower of Spring — a little larger, also, I think, a trifle later than the first-named, and of first-rate quality. There were sixty trial rows, and not one plant had run to seed, but this was not surprising, when a little farther on were seen ihe plants for selection for stock seed. Here there were 118 rows, twelve plants in a row, and only one plant out of the whole lot, both trial and stock plants, had run to seed. Sutton's Favourite comes next. Thia is quite a distinct Cabbage. The Reading firm are wise in making two distinct classes of Cabbage — those for autumn sowing and those for spring — in their list. Favourite is shown under both heads, and this needa explaining, aa most spring Cabbages are not suitable for summer and autumn use. I mean the plants lose their com- pact habit, and are not nearly as good as when spring sown. Favourite, which is remarkably dwarf, ia good in either season, and is peculiar in this respect, as it may be grown for the earliest or the latest. There were thirty-six trial rows, one only that had run to seed, and seventy- seven rows planted for stock seed, and not one had bolted. This shows its excellence for spring work. It ia a very email Cabbage, invaluable in a private garden, and well worth special notice from amateurs, aa it requires so little space. The above are the three principal spring Cabbages on trial, but as I stated above there are othera, such as Sutton's Imperial and Early Market. These are not so suitable for private gardens as the three of which I have given particulars. They are larger and more suitable for market, but had the same percentage, or nearly so, as regards bolting noticeable in each case. Some of the older varieties were on trial, such as Ellam'a lj>arly Dwarf, a splendid stock, which was very free from running to seed ; the Vlll. THE GARDEN. [Junk 3, 1005. larger OSfenham, a favourite market Cabbage in the Midlands, was not so reliable ; and a splendid Cabbage, Sutton's Earliest, was occupying a large space ; also Little Gem, a great favourite in many gardens, a dwarf, compact grower. These two last named are best when sown in spring, and though sown last season in the autumn at Reading there is no doubt that they are best sown in the spring. Grown thus they mature quickly, and prove a valuable catch crop. There was a good breadth of the Rosette and Hardy Green Colewort. This useful late autumn Cabbage is well worth attention by all who require green vegetables of the best quality, and here the Sutton Rosette is a splendid stock, not coarse but compact, and the close, small head is surrounded by incurved leaves. This is a great favourite with us, as it is grown so easily and in such a short time. G. WTTirES. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. JUNE. A First Prise of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best answers to the following questions. This competition is open to all professional gardeners. Answers, which must be written on one side of the paper only, must reach this office by June 30. The envelopes must be marked " Competition." The Editor can- not undertake to return the manuscript of unsuccessful competitors. I. — Give lists for selection from of six early Peas, arranged in order of earliness, six mid-season Peas, and six late Peas, to cover a long season; also give heights of the varieties and suitable distances apart for sowing. II. — Give briefly details as to the best methods of soil preparation and manuring to secure a succession of Peas during hot weather. III. — Furnish briefly practical information as to the sowing and raising of Peas under glass for planting out on a warm border to secure early gather- ings ; also name a few suitable dwarf varieties. IV.— Describe the culture of Peas to be grown in pots, boxes, or on a house floor for gathering early under glass. v.— Name eighteen varieties of Potatoes for selection from for garden culture, classifying them as early, mid- season, and late ; also mention general character of growth, and proper distances apart of the rows. VI. — Describe general requirements of Potatoes as to soil preparation, manuring, and times for planting. VII. — Give briefly particulars as to the culture of Potatoes in pots, boxes, or in frameSj under glass, and name a few suitable varieties for such purpose. VIII. —Briefly describe the nature of the well-known Potato disease, how it may be counteracted, and what are the best agents for such purpose. LEGAL POINTS. Damage {Tours In Trouble). — The answer to your question depends upon whether the Court will construe the use of hi» property by your neighbour which is causing you damage as a nuisance. If so, an action for the damage actually caused, and for an injunction to restrain the con- tinuation of the nuisance, can be suocessfuUy brought in the High Court ; but, if not, you are without legal remedy. Whether the Court would say that, in the circumstances you mention, there was an actionable nuisance or not is extremely difficult to lay down beforehand. It is impos- sible to define precisely the amount of damage which will amount to a nuisance. Furthermore, there are always two things to be considered — your right and that of your neighbour, each to enjoy his property for the ordinary purposes for which it and all the different parts of it were constructed. These rights, in your case as in so many others, are conflicting, and it is always diiBcult under such circumstances to determine whether the rights your neighbour undoubtedly has are being used in such a way as to amount to an actionable wrong. If he were using his land in an unnatural way the answer to your question would be simpler, but he has a right to carry on his trade just as you have. The points in favour of your succeeding seem to be the probability that his chimneys are too low, the fact that his buildings are extremely close to your boundary (this point depends, of course, almost entirely upon the extent of his land), and the serious nature of the damage done to your trade. On the whole your case seems a fairly good one, but, as bringing an action in the High Court is always expensive — especially when you lose — this course should not be decided upon without good legal advice from someone who knows all the circum- stances. SOCIETIES. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Floral Com3iittee— May 2S. Present : Mr. W. Marshall (chairman), and Messrs. J. Hudson, J. Green, George Nicholson, J. F. McLeod, R. C. Notcutt, C. Bliek, J. Jennings, William Howe, Charles Dixon, Charles Jefferies, H. J. Jones, H. J. Cutbush, Charles E. Shea, William Cathbertson, E. H. Jenkins, W. J. James, J. W. Barr, and C. T. Druery. Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton, brought a good collection of Ferns (Gymnogrammes) on this occasion, some forty-two species and varieties being staged. The gold and silver kinds were equally well repredented, not a few appearing in well-grown moderate sized plants. We remarked such as chrysophylla minima and c. rotundata cristata, a golden form, well tasselled, and of extreme beauty as well as rarity ; c. grandiceps superba is good among golden sorts, and argentea a dense, silvery variety. In point of beauty none surpasses G. schizophylla gloriosa, a most elegant grower of spreading habit. Silver Flora medal. Hardy plants from Messrs J. Peed and Son, West Norwood, were freely shown in boxes. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, staged a most Interesting lot of things, including many novelties from Western China. Not the least notable was Meconopsis integrifolia, of which one plant was bearing a dozen or more of the huge yellow blossoms, larger than most Tulips in point of size. Clematis montana rubens was shown in splendid form, the natural colour being more pro- nounced than at the last meeting. Very interesting, too, were Primula nivalis farinosa, with violet-purple flowers ; P. deflexa, P. vittata, a species that may be described as a purple flowered P. Sikkimensis from Western China. The choicest of the lot, however, was the orange, or flame orange flowered Primula cockburniana, a bog or moisture-loving species belonging to the verticillate section, usually having about four whorls of blossom. It is, so far as we know, quite unique in colour, which is enhanced by its mealy stems and leaves. Very striking and interesting is Echiura Wildpreti, with rose-pink flowers in a huge pyramid 2^ feet high, the long, lance- shaped leaves being covered with a dense tomentum. Silver Banksian medal. From Finciiley E. Wormald, Esq., 15, Berkeley Square, S.W,, was sent a magnificent group of cut Roses, princi- pally Maman Cochet, in which were many superb blossoms, fine in colour, and of exceptional size. A smaller batch of White Maraan Cochet in the centre was also of consider- able merit. Silver Banksian medal. tiuite a feature were the Roses from Mr. O. Mount, Canterbury, the rich colouring and fragrance attracting the attention of all. Mrs. Edward Mawley was exceptional in colour and form, and flnely shown in company with White Maman Cochet. Silver-gilt Flora medal. A vase of Carnation Lady Hermione was shown by Mr. Martin Smith (Mr. Bliek, gardener). The colour is pleasing salmon, the large flowers very shapely and nicely scented. Carnations, chiefly Malmaisons, were well shown by Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., the collection including the best kinds of commerce. Other plants of Interest were Aphelexis humilis, Metrosideros tloribunda, Saxifraga pyramidalis, and large, well-grown examples of Schizan- thus Wistonensis. Silver Banksian medal. Blandfordia nobilis, with drooping cylindrical to bell- shaped flewers, orange tipped yellow, was shown by Messrs. William Bull and Sons, Chelsea, in company with Tulips and other plants. The Calceolarias from Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, were representative of a very fine strain, the colours good, varied, and decided in tone, the plants models of good cultivation. Pelargoniums from the same source were also in capital form. Silver-gilt Flora medal. A good lot of seedling Petunias came from ilr. R. Rasmissin, Waltham Cross, the flowers large and varied in colour. Hardy flowers from Messrs. T. S. Ware and Co., Feltham, were a varied lot, and included Roses, Irises, Carnations, Eremuri, single Pa3onies, Lupins, Day Lilies, and many more. A tine plant of Ostrowskia magniflca alba was shown in company with Sparaxis pulcherrima. Silver Banksian medal. A large group of Acers was staged by Messrs. Cripps, Tunbridge Wells, the plants very dainty in their elegant leafage at this season. Bronze Flora medal. A group of pla.its of Primula japonioa was interesting by reason of the g. t \t variety of colour represented in the plants, this varying from crimson to white, pink, scarlet, and striped flewers. This inherent capacity for variation is of great value in this species, and should not be lost sight of. The group came from Messrs. Sutton and Sous, Reading. Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons contributed cut shrubs, Lilaas, Cercis siliquastrum roseum, and other plants. A very fine hardy plant group came from Messrs. W. Cutbush and Son, Higbgate, in which the Eremurus hima- laicus were exceptionally good. Other notable things included Lilium testaceum and a pretty lot of hardy Cypripediums. Ramondias and dwarf Phloxes were all good. Silver Banksian medal. Lilacs in variety were well shown by Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, double and single sorts being equally represented. Bronze Flora medal. Mr. L. R Russell, Richmond, brought a charming lot of Clematises in pots, the plants nicely flowered and in great variety. Silver Banksian medal. Mr. R. Anker, Kensington, had a small group, in which Drosera rotundifolia was noted in company with amall- leaved Myrtles and Heaths. A basket of Sweet Peas was the exhibit of Miss J. Easterbrook, Fawkham, Kent. The varieties were pink and white-flowered ones chiefly. Mr. M. Prichard, Christchurch, Hants, staged a very effective group of hardy plants in the cut state. The Eremuri, especially E. robustus and its variety elwesiana, were excellent, and, in like manner, masses of Poppies, Pyrethrums, Irises of many sorts, Trollius, Heucheras, Lupins, and other good and showy things were shown to advantage. The dwarfer alpines were shown in boxes. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Paul and Son, the Old Nurseries, Cheshunt, had a large display of Lilacs with Roses, and among the latter Rosaaltaica, with white flowers, was very fine. Alpines in boxes were also exhibited by this firm. Messrs. Peed and Son, West Norwood, filled a long table with Gloxinias of an excellent strain. Silver-gilt Banksian medal. Phlox canadensis Perry's variety was finely exhibited by Mr. Amos Perry, Winchmore Hill, a large group showing the character of this much-improved form of P. cana- densis. It is obviously a good early-flowering plant not more than IS Inches high. Camaasia Leichtlini atrocarulea, Iris ToUong, I. vaga, I. susiana, I. atropurpurea, with Cypripediums, were all shown by Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester. A most interesting exhibit of the hybrid Regelio-cyclus Irises came from Mr. C. G. van Tubergen, jun., Haarlem, Holland. There were a large number of kinds shown, of which we take : Artemis, purple-violet and plum ; locaste, grey and mauve ; Pandora, purple, with very dark purple falls; Thalia, blue-mauve, on a white ground; Strona; and Charon, gold and bronze, beautifully veined. Ismene amaneaes, with yellow flowers, was also from this firm. Bronze Flora medal. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, had a small lot of alpines with Tulips, &c., Gentiana verna, Viola pedata, and Fritillaria recurva being noticeable. The Misses Hopkins, Mere, Knutsford, Cheshire, brought a small exhibit of the Daisy Alice, together with Primulas and Primroses of many kinds. Saxifrages, and the like. Mr. E. Potten, Cranbrook, Kent, had Columbines in variety, with Lilacs also In many kinds. The best plant here, however, was Trollius europrous improved. It is a large and showy yellow Globe Flower, well worthy of cultivation. SHIRLEY (SOUTHAMPTON) GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The usual monthly meeting was held on Monday, the 15th ult., the honorary treasurer presiding over a fair attendance. Mr. E. Ladharas' talk on "Alpines" proved most instructive, and the small rockery which he had arranged on the platform added greatly to the interest. A good discussion followed. After the meeting a pleasant time was spent by the members in examining the rockery more closely. Supplement to THE GARDEN, June S, 1905. THE Temple Show of 1905 was much like its predecessors, no better, perhaps, and certainly no worse. The groups of plants were as varied and as rich in colour as could possibly be, and all that is best in one section vied with all that is best in another. There were not quite as many Orchids this year as usual, but the miscellaneous flowering plants, and those with ornamental leafage, were as largely shown as ever. The Roses formed asplendid feature ; not only were the plants well grown and freely flowered, but they were attractively arranged also. It would be unsatisfactory here to refer to the exhibits individual'y, for each and all were excellent. There was a large attendance on Tuesday afternoon, the tents, as usual, being uncomfortably full. To the Rev. W. Wilks, the secretary, Mr. S. T. Wright, superintendent, and his assistants, and to Mr. Reader, the best thanks of the exhibitors and visitors are due for the excellent arrange- ments made and carried out. ROSES. The group of Roses from Messrs. William Paul and Son, Waltham Cross, made a most beautiful sho^. Along the back were arranged Rose pillars smothered in bloom, of such varieties as Lady Gay, Waltham Rambler, Crimson Rimbler, and The Farquhar. Immediately in front were bushes and standards of Clio, Mrs. Laing, Crimson Queen, Mme. de Watteville, Hon. E. Gilford, Apotheker G. Hofer (very large, rose), Niphetos, Dachess of Albany, Gloire Lyonnaise, and Perle des Neiges (multiflora). Along the front were dwarf plants of Prince de Bulgarie, Helen Guillot, Souvenir do William Robinson, Mina Birbanson, and others. Dabutante, a hybrid wichuraiana, bearing rich pink flowers freely on slender drooping shoots, made an attractive pillar, but the great feature of this exhibit was Lady Gay, which may be described as a much im- proved Dorothy Perkins. Mr. Charles Turner, the Royal Nurseries, Slough, made a very attractive group with dwarf Roses as a groundwork, pillars and stan- dards being freely arranged among them. The former were represented by such varieties as Merveillede Lyon, Crimson Rambler, La France, Katharine Mermet, Edith Turner, Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, Spenser, and others, while the standards were of Souvenir de Pierre Notting, Maman Cochet, Mareohal Niel, and the pillar Roses Blush Rambler, Crimson Rambler, Leuchtstern, Dorothy Perkins, and Queen Alexandra. The Rose group from Messrs. Paul and Son, The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt, made a brilliant display. Pillars of Dorothy Perkins, Crimson Rambler, wichuraiana. Blush Rambler, and standards of Mme. AbelChatenay, Souv. de Pierre Notting, Rambler Perle des Neiges, Mme. Derepis Matrat, Rev. Alan Cheales, new Hybrid Tea Djivid Harum, and Frau Karl Druschki stood out from a mass of dwarf Roses, conspicuous among the latter being the Hybrid Teas Cherry Ripe, Lady Qaartus Ewarfc, David Harum, Lady Roberts, Mildred Grant, and the dwarf Polyantha I Mme. Lavavasseur. Messrs. Benjamin R. Cant and Sons, The Old Rose Gardens, Colchester, exhibited finely- flowered plants of Dorothy Perkins, Blush Rambler, Leuchtstern, Crimson Rimbler, Moschata alba, and the Garland Rose. Blush Rambler was particularly fine. There were dwarf plants of Papa Lambert, Frau Karl Druschki, Jeanne Bautois, Mrs. J. Laing, Killarney, Mma. N. Levavasseur, and others, and some very fine cut blooms of Marechal Niel. This exhibit was arranged in the centre of one of the tents, and faced both pathways. Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, made a bright display with Roses arranged on a long table. Crimson Rambler made a bright bit of colour in the centre, and on either side of it were freely-flowered plants of Gloire des Polyantha, Eugenie Lxmesch, Ethel Brownlow, John Ruskin, Etoile de France, and others. Edmond Proust (a larga-fiowered pink wichuraiana), Helene Rubin, and Dorothy Perking, all climbers, were well shown also. In the centre of the group, below the rich Crimson Rambler, were some fine blooms of Frau Karl Druschki. Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, exhibited Roses extensively. The weeping standards of Dorothy Perkins were a feature of this exhibit, and Blush Rimbler and Waltham Rambler were well represented. Cut blooms of such varieties as Mme. Cusin, Souv. d'EUse Vardon, Mrs. Edward Miwley, Souv. de Pierre Notting, Florence Pemberton, and others were freely shown. The Philadelphia Rambler, with somewhat dull crimson flowers, was shown by Hobbies, Limited, and received an award of merit. Sweet Peas and various foliage plants were employed in the arrangement, but they hardly added to its effect. Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Braiswick Rose Girdens, Colchester, made a charming display on a long side table. The background consisted of rambling Roses, such as Blush Rimbler, Dorothy Perkins, Crimson Rimbler, and Waltham Rimbler. Here and there the Austrian Copper Briar made a brilliant bit of colour. Souvenir de Pierre Notting was represented by good plants in pots, and there were many cut blooms of Lady Roberts, Liberty, Mme. Edm(^a Metz, Helene Guillot, Mrs. E. Mawley, Florence Pemberton, Ulrich Brunner, Mme. Jean Dupuy, and others. The Roses from Mr. George Mount, Canterbury, were very fine, particularly the cut blooms of Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. John Laing, Frau Karl Druschki, Liberty, Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, Mme. Gabrielle Luizet, Bessie Brown, and Catherine Marmet. The pot-grown plants of Dorothy Perkins and Crimson Rambler were very freely flowered. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. Distinctly beautiful was the display made by Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons in one corner of the large tent. The group had a background of Palms and Clematis, with smaller groups of Calla elliotiana and other subjects. An undulating groundwork of the new perpetual-flowering Rose Mme. Levavasseur, Dorothy Perkins, and Mil- maison Carnations in variety made a most attractive display. The beautiful new Rimbler Rose Mrs. F. W. Flight, a pleasing pink, with white centre, was festooned in a very beautiful manner throughout. Messrs. James Cypher and Sons, Cheltenhan>, made an exhibit of which this firm may well bj proud. A great wealth of the choicer Orchids in wonderful variety, Crolons, Palms, Dracicoas, arranged in a most artistic manner, made a group second to few in the exhibition. From Messrs .James Veitch and Sous, Limited, Ciielsea, came one of their celebrated displays of the choicer stove and greenhouse plants. Magni- ficeat Cilaliums (grandly coloured), Crotons in great variety and in superb form, Gymnograrames, Mirantas, Davallias, Palms, Ilelioonia, Asparagus, and quite a host of beautiful flowering plants, including Cannas, Azileas, Anthuriums, Hj dran- geas, and some beautiful pieces of Hffimanthus Kilbreyeri were arranged. Ciroitions and Azileas from Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, made a useful break between two groups of Roses in the large tent. Backed with Bimboos and Palms the display was very pleasing. At one end of the large tent Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, filled the whole with five large groups respectively of Cineraria stellata. Calceo- larias, Gloxinias, Sahizmthus, and Cineraria stellata again. Eich subject was an excellent representation of its kind, colour, form, and good culture being well exemplified in each instance. Interspersed among the flowering plants were Maidenhair Fern, Caladium Argy- rites, and an edging of lawn grass beautifully green. Breaking up the different groups were a number of well-grown plants of the tuberous- rooted Bsgonias and Nicotiana Sinderae. The hardy Azileas from Messrs. R. and 0. Cuthbert, Southgate, N. , made a glorious display. Large plants, with blossoms freely displayed in all their warm tints, were conspicuous, and smaller ones broke up any formality there might brt, and were also used as an edging. Acers in variety, to contrast with the flowers, lent addi- tional charm. A miscellaneous group was set up by Messrs. William Bull and Sons, King's Road, Chelsea, S.W. This embraced Tree Ferns, Dracieaas, Aralias, Caladiums, Crotons, and a beautiful assortment of interesting plants. The most gorgeous piece of colour in the whole tent was the group of Cannas arranged by Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley. In all there were some 225 plants, and none of the flowers seemed to have suffdred from the hot weather. A fine bank of Clematis from Messrs. Richard Smith and Co., Worcester, was quite a feature of the show. Large plants, well flowered, were always conspicuous. Rambler Roses at the back of the group were a curious contrast. Hardy Rhododendrons from Messrs. J. Waterer and Sons, Limited, Bagshot, Surrey, were grand, and in company with other fine groups in the large tent were very striking. Pink Pearl, John Walker, Michael Waterer, Lidy Howe, ilrs. John Penn, Kate Waterer, and B. W. Curric were among the good things staged. This was an imposing display. From Mr. T. Jannoch, Dersingham, came retarded Lilies and Lilacs. The specimens were beautifully fresh and well grown, and the colours Supplement to THE GARDEN, June S, 1905. most diverse. Lilies of the Valley were very beautiful. Caladiumg from Messrs. John Peed and Son, West Norwood, made a good bank, the plants being well-grown specimens, but hardly as finely coloured as we have sometimes seen them. From Mr. E. Wagg, Maidenhead, a pretty group of Malmaison Carnations was much admired. They were nicely displayed and the colours varied. A large group of Azilea indica from Messrs. Sander and Son, St. Albans, was a bright feature in the second tent. New and choice aptly describes the whole series, and the plants were profusely flowered. Tree Carnations from Mr. A. F. Button, Iver, Bucks, were bright and attractive. The blooms were set up in long glass vases with long stems and plenty of grass, and were much admired. Enchantress, Alpine Glow, Mrs. T. W. Lawson, and Fair Maid were notable examples. Herbaceous Calceolarias from Mr. R. J. Durham, Overton, Ealing, W., were shown in a small group with Ferns interspersed. The colours were varied. CUadiums from Messrs. J. Laing and Sons, Forest Hill, S. E., made an interesting and bold group. More room was wanted to display them. The plants gave evidence of good culture. The group of Carnations set up by Mr. William James, West Daan Park, was much admired. L\rge and handsome well-grown specimen plants chiefly filled the group, some four or five varieties being represented. A capital collection of Ferns was set up by Mr. E. Ascherson, Pett Place, Charing, Kent. Adiau- tums and Gymnogrammes were represented by excellent plants, and the group was backed by Palms, &c. From Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, Surrey, came a nicely-assorted group of stove and green- house plants. Two groups, one of zonal Pelargoniums and the other of Ferns, were staged by Mr. H. B. May, Upper Edmonton. The zonals were bright and attractive, and included the newer and choicer sorts. Of the Ferns, too much cannot well be said. From Mr. George Avends, Ronsdorf, Germany, were many pleasing forms of Primula obconica. The colours and forms were charmingly varied. New Verbena The King, a vastly-improved form of Miss Willmott, was set up in a small group by Messrs. W. Cutbush and Sons. Stove plants frorj Messrs. Fisher, Son, and Sibray comprised a beautiful new Croton Duke of Portland. This is a striking plant, and quite distinct from all other forms. The rich yellow centre to the largo spiky green leaves makes this an effective plant. The Saracenias from Mr. A. J. A. Bruce, Chorlton-cum-Hardy, are always a most interest- ing exhibit. On the present occasion there were many \'ery beautiful specimens, each of which had a charm of its own. Some were tall and stately, and others almost procumbent. The group of new and rare plants from Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, was a notable exhibit. Dracaena Victoria superba, Alpinia Sanderje, Pandanus wavrinianus, Polypodium Knighlce, Nephrolepis Scotti, and a large group of the new Nicotiana hybrids called forth high praise. These latter point to a most interesting future for this easily-grown plant. The collection of Ferns from Messrs J. Hill and Sons, Lower Edmonton, was a good display. Large and comprehensive aptly describes the character of the group, and many new and choice plants stood out prominently. Tuberous Begonias from Messrs. J. Laing and Sons, Forest Hill, were very fine, and, if it be possible, better than usual. Doubles prepon- derated, and the colours were varied. A grand bank of herbaceous Calceolarias was exhibited by Mr. T. H. Lowinsky, Tittenhurst, Sunninghill. Tuberous Begonias from Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Iwerton Hill Nursery, Bath, were a magnificent lot of highly-finished blooms of splendid quality. Large and full and of beautiful form were the doubles comprising this display. The self-coloured flowers were effective, and the tinted and margined flowers distinctlj- pretty. Begonia worlhiana and the newer B. w. Lloydi made a grand bank of plants. They were profusely flowered, well grown, and interesting. This exhibit came from Mr. Frank Lloyd, Coombe House, Croydon. An extremely fine group of freely flowered Gloxinias, beautifully marked, as well as many self-coloured sorts, together with a fine group of Phyllocacti in charming variety, interested many. These plants were from Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley. A group of the Ivy-leaf Pelargonium, the Hon. Mrs. Boyle, and a pretty fancy Pelar- gonium came from Mr. Charles Turner, Slough. The former gained an award of merit. Two or three forms of the new seedling shrubby Calceolarias (Jefferies' Hybrids) were well shown by Mr. John E. Jefferies, Oxford. This is a plant with great possibilities. Retarded Lilies of the Valley, Boronias, &c., with a nice collection of Palms, Ferns, and other good foliage plants, were well staged at one end of the long tent by Mr. William Iceton, Putney. Spir.-ea astilbe Peach Blossom, S. a. Queen of Holland, Novelty Snowflike, and others were well shown by AL Gt. van Waveren and Kruyff, Sassenheim, Haarlem, Holland. Messrs. T. S. Ware (1902), Limited, Felthara, Middlesex, had an exceptionally handsome group of Begonias, the flowers being exclusively devoted to the large double-flowered sorts. Gloxinias from ilessrs. John Peed and Sons, West Norwood, were a very charming lot. The colours were in many cases soft and pleasing, and others bright and attractive. Pelargoniums from Mr. V. Slade, Taunton, were pretty as well as effective. Numerous bunches of handsome sprays of new and choice sorts were frequently in evidence. A collection of Cacti, Bougainvillea, and Ner- tera depressa was staged by Mr. Richard Anker, Addison Nursery, Kensington. Pelargoniums as shown by Mr. W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth, Devon, were an attractive lot. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chel- sea, had a large table group, containing hybrid Gerberas, Phyllocactus hybrids, Sohizmthus wisetonensis. Lobelia tenuior, Corydalis tomen- tosa, Kalanchoe felthamensis, Streptocarpus, Cineraria Antique Rose, and other plants. A group of miscellaneous flowering plants was staged by Messrs. W. and J. Brown, Stani- forii. Verbena Mies Willmott, Heliotrope Lord Roberts, Climbing Roses, Carnations, and many other plants made an attractive display. . The grand displays made by Messrs. James Carter and Co., High Holborn, are now quite proverbial. Gloxinias, Carnations, Begonias, Calceolarias, Verbenas, Perfection Mignonette, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Schizinthuses, Cine- raries, &c., sufficed to fill the main entrance to the long tent, besides table space on the central stage. This was a splendid effort, and was much admired. Herbaceous Calceolarias in most pleasing and diverse colours were well shown by Messrs. Clibran, Altrincham. In this instance the flowers were very large, and the plants gave evidence of good culture. Tuberous Begonias, Pelargoniums, Sweet Peas, and Verbena Miss Willmott from Mr. Jones, Lewisham, made a very handsome and much- admired display. The Sweet Peas were the most attractive lot in the show, and Mr. Jones has shown us how they should be arranged. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, En- field, set up a large and attractive display of Car- nations, embracing Malmaison, Tree, and border sorts. The same firm had a nice lot of Schizan- thus Wisetonensis, and a large and varied collec- tion of choice plants, including Nicotiana Sandera). Zonal Pelargoniums were shown in handsome bunches by Messrs. Biker, Wolverhampton, and were the centre of attraction. Carnations from Messrs. Thomas S. Ware (1902), Limited, Feltham, were a beautiful series, includ- ing Leander, Cecilia, Mrs. Thomas Lawson, and Lidy Bountiful, all well shown. Messrs. George Boyes and Co., Ajdestone Nurseries, Leicester, had a pretty group of Car- nations, in which the richer colours predominated. HARDY PLANTS AND ALPINES. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Girden, set up a display of hardy things in their usual place in Tent No. 3. The group was a highly representa- tive one, containing Ixias in abundance. Tulips, single P;eonies in variety. Ranunculus, Pyre- thrums, early Gladioli, Poppies, Liliums, and a host of other good and showy things in season. Of the smaller plants we noted Ramondias, hardy Cypripediums in variety. Primula sikkimensis, the white Erinus, Iris cristata, Saponaria ocy- moides alba (a choice trailing plant), Cheiranthus mutabilis purpurea, and others. Irises were also good and abundant. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, contributed a group, in which alpioes were associated with choice shrubs and the like. In the first named Gentiana verna was very charming, rich in colour, and pleasing in the group. Hardy Cypripediums were good and rarer flowers wore Campanula thyrsoidea, Ouosma tauricum, and with spikes of Eremuri and brilliant masses of Embuthrium coccineum a pleasing group was formed. Messrs. George Jackman and Co., Woking, made a fine display, distinct, good, and well disposed. The hardy Cypripediums were a feature, and here we noted C. parviflorum, C. candidum, C. pubescens, C. acaule, and others. Ramondias were very charming, and Pi'rethrums showy and good in the extreme. Eremuri and the gorgeous Poppies were a feast in themselves. Messrs. Reamsbottom and Co., Alderborough Nurseries, Geashill, King's Count}', Ireland, staged a very fine lot of Anemones, in which the King of Salmons made quite a distinct display. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, staged perennials in many good kinds. The single Pyrethrum Margaret Moore is a fine pink. Poppies from Mr. W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth, made a distinct and effective group. The huge, well-grown flowers were very striking. Loveli- ness is a pale salmon, with blotch ; Exmouth Rival, maroon-crimson, and of great siz^ ; Lad}' Ebring- ton is of palest salmon or washed salmon colour deeper externally. Nearly all the kinds have a rich blotch on each petal. Mr. R. C. Notcutt, Woodbridge, staged hardy perennials freel}'. The Eistern Poppy Lady Roscoe was extremely fine and showy, the salmon orange colour rendering this a remarkable plant. Pasonies, Poppies, Cheiranthus AUioni, Irises, and many others contributed to a fine display. Alessrs. Richard Smith and Co., Worcester, had a showy group of perennials, in which Tree Piiionies were especially good. Eremuri, Irises, P.'eonies of the herbaceous group, Cimassia, and others were all showy and useful subjects. Messrs. J. Backhouse and Son, York, con- tributed an exhibit of rockwork admirably arranged, and containing many choice things. Cypripedium macranthum (very fine), Gentiana pyrenaica (a charming tuft of this rare Gentian), Dianthus Frej'ni alba (a very choice plant), Litho- spermum Gastoni, Saponaria oc^'moides alba, and Campanula tridentata (purple hells) were among the more choice in the group. The group from Mr. B. Ladhams, Shirley, Southampton, was of small size. Columbines, Heucheras, Pinks, Gaillardias, and a new Armeria, evidently of the A. plantaginea set, being the chief things. A very good rockery exhibit from Messrs. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, attracted much atten- tion. The disposal of the rooks was good, and the plants, chiefly of the alpine class, were well arranged, A very fine specimen of Lupinus Supplement to THE GARDEN, June S, 190S. polyphyllus roseus, with six spikes, was quite a feature. A very choice assortment of alpinas neatly arranged came from the Hardy Plant Nursery, Guildford (iSIr. A. R. Upton, owner). A very good plant here was Iris pallida fol. var. For the rest we noted Gentians, Aohilleas, Globularia cordifolia (blue, very charming), Androsaoe cylindrica (white), several Saxifrages, Ledum Lyoni (pink), and Saxifraga coehlearis among miny choice things. The exhibit of alpines from the Craven Nursery, Clapham, Yorkshire, contained many excellent things, none finer, however, than the rich purple of Edraianthus serpyllifolius in the finest mass we have ever seen. It was a rare feast alone, and its beauty was enhanced by small flowering tufts of Saxifraga cassia, white; the twain associated beautifully. There were Dianthus alpinus albus. Iris gracilipes, Eritric- hium nanum, and Ramondias. Primula farinosa, of which a rare mass was shown, had a beautiful white companion. These are but a few of the choice things in a very choice lot. A rockwork exhibit from Mr. H. 0. Pulham, Elsenham, Essex, contained many good plants, of which Oarisia coccinea, Armeria laucheana, Onosma tauricum, Saponaria ooymoides alba, and the double Cambrian Poppy were noticeable. A pretty arrangement of rock plants with Ferns was set up by the Misses Hopkins, Mere, Cheshire. Dodecatheons, Primulas, Sedums, Saxifrages, Anemone decapetala. Ranunculus uniflora (soft yellow). Primula sikkimensis, to- gether with a mass of the Daisy Alice, made this exhibit a pleasing and distinct one. Messrs. James Carter and Co., Holborn, on a rockwork exhibit, arranged a large number of choice things — Phloxes, Armerias, Aubrietias, Lithospermums, Ourisia coccinea, Saxifraga pyramidalis, double Silene maritima, white and purple Erinus, the Edelweiss, and such like things. .The arrangement was very suggestive of what might be done in small gardens. Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester, set up a very artistic and naturally-arranged group of hardy plants. The Heuoheras were very beauti- ful, Pyrethrums were good and showy, such Liliumsasmonadelphum, Takesima graudiflorum, many forms of elegaus, the Martagons, and the hybrid testaceum were all good and well done. A lovely lot of Cushion Irises call for more remark than we can now give. Eremuriand Gerbaras were prominent. Irises quite a display and a feature by themselves, while the colonising of the hardy Cypripediums, the Dodecatheons, Trilliums, North American Maidenhair Fern, and similar moisture-loving things left nothing to be desired. Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, contributed a good group of perennials, of which Geum Heldreichi,Incarvilleas, Pyrethrums, Eremurus, Eastern Poppies, Heucheras, early Peonies, Achillea mongolica and the like were conspicuous representatives. All the things were particularly fresh and good. A very showy group of perennials in the cut state came from Mr. Amos Perry, Winchmore Hill, a great feature being made of Phlox canadensis. Perry's var., the flowers from the open ground being in good colour and condition. Other good things were Geums, Lilies, Poppies, Eremuri, Ostrowskia magnifica. Primula Sik- kimensis, very fine, Dianthus alpinus albus, Iris tenax, I. longipetala, and others. Hyacinthus amethystinus and its white variety were also noted. Mr. M. Prichard, Christchurch, Hants, had a fine array of single and double Pyrethrums, Ourisia coccinea, Eriophorum virginatum or Cotton Grass, Saxifraga macnabiana, L-bertia formosa. Poppies in abundance. Iris filifolia, a blue Iris, intermediate between I tingitana and the early Spanish kinds, and other Irises. Baker's, Wolverhampton, new exhibitors of hardy things at this show, came up in good style with a rockwork exhibit of sandstone, in which many good thinga were to be seen. Aohillea rupestris, white ; Onosma tauricum, dark form of Primula japonica, Lithospermums, Columbines, and showy Globe Flowers ; Edelweiss, and Saxi- fragas were all good. A very admirable lot of Pansies and Violas flanked one end of this exhibit. Messrs. B. S. Williams, HoUoway, had Tulips, Irises, Globe Flowers, &c. Messrs. Paul and Son, Old Nurseries, Ches- hunt, had a i-iuall exhibit of hardy things, in which Anemone sulphurea was a notable example. Iris susiana, Pffiony lobata. Poppy Mrs. Marsh, Aster alpinus roseus, A. a. albus, and Saxifraga lantoscana superba were also good. In the open Messrs. Pulham and Son, 71, Newman Street, Oxford Street, W. , set up a rockwork arrangement iwith natural stone adorned with plants and shrubs. The arrange- ment of the rocks was generally good, yet too sparsely clothed in proportion to size. Alpines and shrubs with dwarf rock plants were the things chiefly employed. The rockery exhibit set up in the open by Messrs. William Cutbush and Son, High- gate, was a most comprehensive one. Alpines were arranged in colonies, and on rocky ledges ; hardy Lady's Slippers were arranged freely in groups ; bog plants and Water Lilies appearing in a similar way. A mass of Eremurus was among the best of the ex- hibits, scores of spikes towering in profusion. Hardy Primulas were numerous, and not less so the varying species and varieties of Orchis. A wealth of Ferns, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, and climbing Roses appeared in the background. Tree Peonies were exhibited by Messrs. Kelway and Sons, Langport, and embraced many beautiful shades in flowers of tho largest size. ORCHIDS. The group of Orchids from Messrs. Charles- worth and Co., Heaton, Bradford, occupied a space of 200 square feet, and made a varied and beautiful display. In the centre Phalaanopsis rimestadiana was represented by some finely- Sowered plants, and there were some splendid varieties of Odontoglossum ardentissimum, Prin- cess Margaret, The Princess, The Countess, and other finely-spottedforms. Odontoglossum crispum Esoamillo and 0. c. superbum, 0. wilckeanum augustum, and other fine forms made a little group by themselves, and 0. crispum Victoria Regina, 0. c. Clarissa, 0. c. Alcyone, 0. c. xanthotes, and other splendid forms were grouped together. Particularly fine were La3lio- Cattleya luminosa His Majesty, L.-C. Fascinator Ayesha, L.-C. F. Ena, L.-C. F. Queen Alexandra, L.-C. F. rosea superba. Ansellia africana was represented by a plant bearing over 300 flowers. With a choice collection of Orchids Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, made a most attractive display, covering 200 square feet. Some very fine varieties of Odontoglossum ardentissimum were arranged in the centre of the group, together with Cattleya Schroderse The Baron, a beautiful variety with white sepals and petals and rich lip. This has a white margin, then comes a purple band which merges into orange, purple again appearing in the throat. Cattleyas and Lselio-Cattleyas were in profusion, and comprised many beautiful sorts. Dendrobium thyrsiflorum was splendidly shown, one plant bearing some fifteen racemes. Renanthera imschootiana with its red-crimson flowers wan a striking plant. Odontoglossums were represented by many very beautiful varieties. Sir Frederick Wigan, Bart. , Clare Lawn, East Sheen (Orchid grower, Mr. W. H. Young), sent a collection of Orchids that made a striking and attractive display. ^Laelia purpurata, Sobralia macrantha, S. macrantha alba, and Thunia Marshallife were arranged in the background, and beneath them were finely-bloomed plants of Cattleya Mendelii, C. Mossiffi, and others. The chief feature of the front part of the group con- 1 sisted of the masses of Miltonia vexillaiia in several of the best varieties. Some good things were included in this group, notably LjBlio-Cattleya Myra magnifica, C. Mossiae Wagenerii, and LEelia purpurata backhouseana. A delightful group was shown by Jeremiah Colman, Esq., Gatton Park, Reigate. Bits of bright colour throughout added much to the efi:ectiveness of this display, which was enhanced by the interspersal of Odontoglossums and other gracefully- flowered Orchids. Epiden- drum Boundii (orange red), Masdevallia harryana Bull's Blood, M. veitchiana grandiflora, Lselio- Cattleya Phcebe, and Cochlioda noezliana were responsible for the brilliant bits of colour. Cattleyas were well represented by good varieties, and there were fine varieties of Lielia purpurata and Miltonia vexillaria. M. Ch. Vuylsteke, Loochristi, Ghent, exhibited five exceptionally finely-marked and spotted hybrid Odontoglossums. They were 0. amabile Ixion (Harryo-crispum X crispum), 0. lawrence- anum Adonis (triumphans x Bolfe;e), 0. Venus- tulum (Harryo-crispum x ardentissimum), O.per- oultum Cybele (Rolfeie X ardentissimum), and 0. delectum (Rolfea) X Pescatorei). Mr. John Robson, Bowden Nurseries, Altrinc- ham, Cheshire, made a bright display "with Cattleyas and Odontoglossums chiefly. In the centre was a mass of Cattleya Mos9i;e and Lielia purpurata, and on either side were arranged Odontoglossums in considerable variety. Among the latter were 0. crispum Ruby, 0. c. bonnianum (Robson's variety), and 0. ardentissimum (Vine House variety). J. Rutherford, Esq., M.P., Beardwood, Black- burn, exhibited a small group of Orchids, consisting largely of Odontoglossum crispum varieties, Cattleya Skinneri, C. Mossije, C. Mendelii, Miltonia vexillaria. Cattleya Mossias rappartiana and C. M. Sir Alfred Milner were finely represented. F. Wellsley, Esq., Westfield, Woking (gar- dener, Mr. Hopkins), exhibited Cattleya sohil- leriana Westfield variety, C. Zephea alba, and a few other Orchids. Messrs. William Bull and Sons, Chelsea, arranged their Orchids in a high and steep bank. The rich colouring of the Cattleyas, JIasdevallias, Oncidiums, Lfelio-Cattleyas, and the elegant racemes of the Odontoglossums in a groundwork of Maidenhair Fern made a most effective display. Lsslia purpurata was represented by some fine varieties, and so were Cattleya Mendelii and C. Mossife. The Odontoglossum crispum were splendidly-flowered plants. Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Eafield, showed a group of Orchids, in which were fine plants of Cattleya MossiK Ajax, C. Skinneri, Laslia purpurata alba, L. p. Daintyness. Dandrobium BensoniEe xanthinum, Ansellia africana, Cypripedium callosum Sanderse, together with well-flowered Dendrobiums, were also shown in this group. The group from Messrs. Stanley and Co., Southgate, N., consisted largely of plants of Cattleya Mossise arranged in a groundwork of Ferns. The plants of Odontoglossum crispum in several varieties, which were interspersed, gave an added beauty to this display. There were some very fine flowers among the Cattleya Mossise, and some very good forms of 0. crispum. Mr. James Cypher, Cheltenham, adopted quite a fresh plan for the exhibition of his Orchids. They formed the groundwork in a large group arranged on the floor of ornamental foliage plants. Mounds were also made of them around the base of specimen Palms and Crotons used in the exhibit. Altogether the effect was excellent, and although such an arrangement naturally offers some disadvantage in the way of examining the flowers closely, the general eflect is far better than that of the ordinary method of staging. OUTDOOR GROUPS. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, set up one of their delightful and comprehensive groups of some of the more precious hardy Supplement to THE GA RDEN, Jurve S, 1905. flowers. Quite an array of Paeonies and Ere- rauras robnstus Elwesianua formed the back- ground, and smaller groups of Aquilegia hybrids, Primula ■ japonica pulveruleuta, Heuchera Eanguinea, and several new plants from Western China and Eastern Thibet, including Meconopsis integrifolia, M. punicea, Incarrillea Delavayi, and a beautiful series of new Primulas were shown. Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, set up a charm- ing assortment of flowering trees and shrubs, in which the disposition of the plants was somewhat unique. The group was in the form of three sides of a square, with pretty little groups of a varied character dotted here and there on the greensward. Altogether this newer idea is to be commended. Prom Mr. David Russell, Brentwood, came a bold and striking group of the choicer trees and shrubs. There was much to be admired in the arrangement of this group, the charming A cars giving a delightful finish, and the artistic adjust- ment all that could be desired. Rambler Roses in this firm's display were very choice. Messrs. Fisher, Son and Sibray, Limited, Royal Nurseries, Handsworth, Sheflield, set up one of their customary groups of flowering trees and shrubs, for which this firm is now so famous. Hollies were particularly good. Ilex Wilsonii and quite a number of hybrid seedlings in the pink of condition, being stately plants. Dimorpanthus marginatusalbus,thBgiantAraliafrom Manchuria, ane the golden form of the same plant, D. mar. aurea, were also in splendid form, impressing us with their undoubted value. Rhododendron Pink Pearl, R. fastuosum fl.-pl., and the bright crimson R. Doncaster were each striking. Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, made one of their attractive displays of hardy flowering trees and shrubs. Flowering and foliage plants were about equally disposed in their large group, and full advantage taken of the many choice subjects to make an effective exhibit. Rhododendrons, Lilacs, Azaleas, Wistaria, and other equally choice things were staged in fine form. Another group of the choicer trees and shrubs came from Messrs. Thomas Cripps and Son, Tunbridge Wells. The plants were in beautiful condition, being charmingly clothed with dainty foliage, and all very refined and beautiful. The Acersare this firm's great speciality, many magni- ficent specimens being found here and there well disposed. Acer japonicum aureum, A. rubri- folium var., A. palmatum septemlobum elegans, purpureum macrophyllum, A. pal. roseum marginatum, and quite a host of other good things. Vitis heterophylla variegata, The Golden Elm, Quercus conoordia (the Golden Oak), and the purple form Q. purpurea all assisted to make this a fine display together with other plants. From Messrs. Richard Smith and Son, Wor- cester, came a chaiming group. There was quite a wealth of lovely plants, but perhaps, a trifle crowded. In this instance all the better flower- ing trees and shrubs were well represented, Acers being very interesting. The cut bushes from Messrs. Wm. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, N., were splendidly repre- sented, and those fond of topiary work had much wherewith to satisfy themselves. Dogs, tables, peacocks, swans, ducks, chairs, vases, bottles, decanters, serpents, garden seats, and other curious forms of this work were represented in the 150 specimens arranged in one corner of the garden. The pigmy trees of Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, were staged in a most interesting manner under the welcome shade of two trees in the garden. The background and table covering were quite in keeping with the curious and interesting subjects staged. Some of the trees are very old, yet still in a most flourishing condition. Art in their disposition was manifest. Japanese pigmy trees and Cacti were charm- ingly grouped under another tree by Messrs. James Carter and Co., High Holborn, W.C. Many of the small trees were in quite a flourish- ing condition, notably the Oaks and the Larches. Cacti in great variety were arranged in a central rock group and in numerous Japanese dishes around the side tables. Rhododendrons, &c. , were set up in an informal group by Messrs. George Paul and Son, Ches- hunt. The plants were freely flowered, and good quality was apparent. A bright little group of variegated Nasturtium Ryburgh Perfection, both tall and dwarf forms, and two smaller ones of Viola R^yal Sovereign and Maggie Smott came from iUessrs. G. Stark and Son, Great Ryburgh, Norfolk ; Waverley blue Lobelia made a good edging. Messrs. W. Fromow and Son, Sutton Court Nurseries, Chiswick, W. , staged a group of elegant Acers, &c. The form and tints of foliage seen in the plants were pleasingly diverse, and ths arrange- ment light and artistic. A. japonicum aureum was in fine form ; A. roseum marginatum and other lovely forms were much admired. P^onias in huge pots from Messrs. Kelway and Sons, Langport, made a fine show in the open. Colour in these flowers was beautifully varied, and the quality of the flowers left nothing to be desired. Very flne were varieties Lord Burnham, Aphrodite, Lord Dunraven, T. A. Havemeyer, and Edward VII. Tufted Pansies (Violas) growing in 2-feet round baskets were nicely shown by Mr. Howard B. Crane, Woodview Terrace, Highgate. The plants in moat instances were very freely flowered. FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, exhibited forty varieties of Potatoes. These were from tubers planted on March 1, and were well finished examples in most instances. Among those specially worthy of note were Sutton's Superlative, a variety something of the shape of Victoria, with a rough skin ; May Queen, a fine early kidney ; Windsor Castle, this is said to be equally good for early or late, but is properly a mid- season varietj' ; Reliance, a good Potato, and the parent of Discovery ; Epicure good, and a heavy cropper ; Reading Russett, red skinned, good, early and late ; King Edward VII., and Eirly Rose ; after forty years the latter still survives. Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Limited, Maidstone, exhibited one of the finest collections of Apples we have seen for so late in the season. Eighty-five varieties were shown, and all were remarkably well preserved. Of those particu- larly worthy of note a large basket of Smart's Prince Albert should take first place, the fruit being handsome and very firm. Ontario, Alfrjs- ton, Baldwin, High Canons (a variety somewhat like Wellington, but said to keep better), Wellington, and many others were equally good. In this exhibit were also included six pot plants of Cherry Guigne d'Annonay, a very fine early variety. The small tress were well cropped. Messrs. Cannall and Sons, Eynsford and Swanley, put up a splendid collection of vege- tables, ""which included thirty-six sorts of Pota- toes, among which Haslinger, The Sirdar, The Factor, Mr. Breese (pink skinned kidney). Pink Perfection, and Lord Tennyson (purple eyed kidney) were very fine. In Tomatoes, Cannell's Perfection was well shown. Cabbage Cannell's Defiance, and some good Peas and other vegetables were also exhibited. University College, Reading, put up a fine col- lection of well-grown vegetables, &o. ; in the background were Tomatoes in pots well fruited, and French Beans in pots. Peas, Potatoes, and other vogetables were finely shown. Laxton Brothers, Bedford, showed Strawberries in pots well cropped, also baskets of fine fruit, Bedford Champion and Reward being the varieties shown ; these are both promising new fruits. M. A. Belin, Horticulteur, Argenteuil, sent immense specimens of Asparagus. AWARDS. G"ld jVelal—Sh F. Wigan, Bart., for Orchids; Sir A. Ilendersun, Burt., M.P., for fiuit and vegetables ; Messrs. James "Veitch, for stove, hardy, and new plants ; Messrs. F. Sander, for Orchids and Nicotiana ; Messrs. Cutbush, for Carnations and alpines ; Messrs. Paul and S »n, for Roses ; Messrs. Chirlesworth, for Orchids ; Messrs. Cripps and Son, for shrubs ; Messrs. Sutton and Sons, for green- house plants ; Messrs. Wallace and Co., for alpines and Lilies. Silver Cup.— Frank Lloyd, Esq., for Begonias ; S. Heil- but, Esq., for fruit; J. Colman, Esq., for Orchids; \V. James, Esq., for Carnations ; Messrs. Cypher, for Orchids ; Messrs. U. Smith, for Clematis ; Messrs. Cannell and Sons, fur Cani.aa and vegetables ; Messrs. Barr and Son, for alpines ; Messrs. Bunyard, for fruit and hardy plants ; Messrs. Peed and Son, for Caladiums ; Messrs. Cuthbert, for hardy Azaleas; Messrs. Cheal and Son, for alpines; Messrs. William Paul, fur Roses ; Messrs. Rivers and Son, for fruits; Messrs. Hill and Sons, for Ferns; Mr. H. B. May, for Ferns and tlowers ; Mr. Ware, forherl)aceous plants and Begonias ; Reading College, for vegetables ; ilr. Charles Turner, for Roses ; Mr. Bruce, for Sarracenias ; Mr. Back- house, for alpines ; Mr. Pritchard, for alpiues ; Messrs. F. Cant, for Roses ; Mr. G. Mount, for Roses. Siloer-gilt Flora 3/c(ftiJ.— Messrs. Carter, for flowers and vegetables ; Mr. L. R. Russell, for shrubs, Ac. ; Messrs. J. Laing, for Gloxinias and Begonias ; Messrs. Dobbie and Co., for hardy plants; Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., fur Carna- tions, ttc. ; Messrs. Fisher, Sun, and Sibray, for shrubs; Messrs. B. Cant and Sons, for Rcses ; Messrs. J- Waterer and Co., for Rhododendrons ; Messrs. Jaukman, for hardy plants; Mr. R. Sydenham, for Sweet Peas ; Messrs. William Bull and Sons, fur Orchids ; Messrs. Blackraore and Lang- dijn, for Begonias; Mr. JSotcutt, for hardy plants; Mr. Perry, for hardy plants ; and Mr. D. Russell, for trees and shrubs. Sihcr-gilt Knightian Medal— 'Mr. Mortimer, for Cucum- hers and'^Tomatoes ; and Messrs. Laxton, for Strawberries. Silver-gilt Banksiaii Jiledal.—iir. W. J. Godfrey, for hardy flowers ; Mr. H. J. Jones, for hardy flowers ; Messrs. Hogg and Robertson, for Tuiips ; Mr. A, Dickson, for Tulips ; Messrs. Biker, for hardy plants ; Mr. George Reuthe, for hardy plants ; and Mr. W. IcetoD, for Lily of the Valley. The Veitchian Gold Cup (value 52 guineas) was awarded to Messrs. Cripps, for shrubs. Silver Flora Medal. — E. Ascherson, Esq., for Ferns ; John Rutheriord, Esq,, M.P., for Orchids ; E. Wagg, Etq., for Carnations ; Lord Aldenham, for flowering trees and shrubs ; Messrs. Jones and Son, fur Sweet Peas, &c. ; Messrs. Watkins and Simpson, for annuals ; Mr. John Robaon, for Orchids; Mr. A. F. Button, for Carnations; and Messrs. Kelway and Son, for hardy herbaceous plants. Silver Knightian Medal.— Ht. A. J. Harwood, for As- paragus ; Lady Warwick College, lor vegetables ; Hon. A. H. T. de Montmorency, for Tulips ; and Mr. Charles Ritchings, for Tomatoes. Silver Banksian Medal.— T. H. Lewinsky, Esq., for Calceolarias ; Mr. A. Bslin, for Asparagus ; Mr. W. .Sydenham, for Violas; Messrs. B. S. Widiams and Son, for hai'dy cut flowers ; Mr. C. W. Breadmure, for Sweet Peas, &c. ; Mr. H. C. Pulham, for alpines ; Mr. R. Farrer, for alpines ; Guildford Hardy Plant C.)mpany, for alpines ; Jlessrs. B. H. Bath, for Carnations, *c. ; Mr. T. Jannoch, for Lilies of the Valley ; Messrs. W. Fromow and Sons, for Maples ; and A. LI. Gwillim, for Begonias. Bronze Knightian Medal. — Mr. K. Stephenson, for Asparagus. ORoniD Committee. Fir^'t-class ccrtifieate.^.— Minims de Wavrin, for Cat- tleva citrlna maxima ; Mr. E. Ashworth, for Zygopetalum Ballii (natural hybrid) ; and M. Vuylsteke, for Odonto- glossum X amabile Ixiun. Aivards of merit. — Mr. E.. B. White, for Odontoglossura X loochristyense Arddarroch variety; M. Vuylsteke, fur Oduntugloisum x lawrenceanum Adonis (triuinphans x crispo-harryanum) ; Messrs. Low, fur Cattleya Mendelii Cicero ; and Mr. Wellesley, for Cattleya schilleriana Wost- tleld variety. Botanical certyicate.— Messrs. Cutbush, for Bletiahyacin- thiua alba. CiiUural commeyidation.— 'Mr. W. P. Bound, gardener to Jeremiah Colman, Esq., for Odontoglossum crispum ; four spikes grown in two years from one bulb. Floral Committee. Aivards of merit.— 'Si. G. Arends, Roiisdorf, for Primula X Arendsi ; Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, for Rose Phila- delphia Rambler ; Messrs. T. S. Ware (11)02), Limited, Felt- ham, fur Begonia .Mme. Graraby ; Messrs. William Paul and Sun, Waltham Cross, for Rose Lady Gay (Rambler); Mr. W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth, for Pelargonium M. Itosaleur ; Mr. A. J. A. Bruco, Chorlton, for Sarraceiiia Uava gigaiitea ; Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Bath, fur Bi?gunia Mme. A. Patti ; Messrs. Cutbush and Sun, High- gate, fur Rhododendron Smithi aureum. Verbena The King, and Edraianthus Pumilio ; Mr. C. Turner, Slough, fur Pelarguiiium the Hon. Mrs. Boyle ; Messrs. Paul and Sun, Chesluint, for Rose David Harum ; Mr, A. Perry, Winohmore Hill, for Phlox canadensis Perry's variety ; Messi's. Sander and Sous, St, Alb. ins, for .\zalea indica Julius Roehrs : and Mr. Reutho, Keston, for Eremurus Elwesii'albus. Fruit Committkk. First-class certi/icatei.— Mr. S, Mortimer, Rowledge. tor Cucumber Delicacy ; and Messrs. T. llivera aud Son, Saw- brldgewotth, tor Peach Peregrine. GARDEN -^R! No. 1751,— Vol. LXVII. June 10, 1905. WEEDS. WEEDS have been described as plants in the wrong place, and the description is cer- tainly a good one. They seem to grow and flourish practically all the year round, while a few warm showers and sunny days in spring make them thrive amazingly. A bed of small plants often becomes overgrown and nearly smothered before one properly realises that spring has come and that the hoe must be got ready for use. The weeds most com- monly met with are Grasses of sorts, Chick- weed, Dead Nettles, Nettles, Groundsel, Dandelions, and Docks. Of these the first two are the commonest, and appear almost universally on cultivated ground. The worst weed of any is the Couch Grass, or Twitch Grass, and when a piece of ground is fairly overrun with this time and money are necessary to get rid of it. It rarely, if ever, appears on ground that is regularly cropped and worked, but where ground is allowed to remain idle for a time it is certain to appear. There have been many remedies suggested for this pest, but the only effective method of destroying it is to fork it out thoroughly and burn every scrap. After it has apparently been completely got out, it will be found that enough small pieces remain to infest the ground again if it is neglected. It is an open question as to what crop should be planted afterwards, but it should be one that will allow of the ground being hoed and kept clean. Potatoes fulfil these conditions almoit as well as anything, more especially if a sort that makes a lot of haulm is used. Potatoes are hoed over several times before being earthed, and when they are dug there is an opportunity of getting rid of any Couch Grass that has appeared. Trenching is a mistake, as Couch Grass must be buried at least 3 feet deep to kill it, and to bury good top soil at that depth is sheer waste, as this means burying all the sweetened fibrous soil and bringing poor, hungry stuff to the surface to take its place. The only tree we know that will kill this weed is the Lime planted close together, as in nursery quarters. After the first year or two no weeds will grow to any extent under Limes, probably being either killed by drip or shade. Where there are gaps weeds will make a start, showing that they are killed by some overhead influence, and not through any action of the roots of the Limes. Dry weather is necessary when cleaning the ground of Couch Grass, so that every piece can be shaken out ready for burning, and if the work cannot be done in spring, it should be left until the summer, leaving the ground uncropped for a season. The cost varies with the nature of the ground to be cleaned, but roughly it works out at about 2s. or a little more a rod, equal to £16 an acre. Other kinds of Grasses, Chickweed, Ground- sel, and Dead Nettles can be kept down by the use of the hoe during the summer, or by hand weeding, but it should always be remembered that nothing ought to be taken off' the ground that can be left on it. The practice of raking up every weed and leaf in the shrubberies and wheeling them away to form a heap is a radically bad one, as this so-called rubbish, dead leaves particularly, is Nature's way of mulching. Such material can be covered with a sprinkling of soil to hide it, or be dug in if the roots of the plants permit. Nettles, Dandelions, and Docks are not very common on well cultivated ground, but sometimes they appear, and if allowed to take firm hold of the ground they can only be got rid of by forking out. Docks especially should not be chopped off, as this only means two or three growths appearing instead of one, while the thick tap-root descends deeper and firmer into the ground. A weed that is common in some parts of Surrey, but is not found to any great extent elsewhere, is Claytonia perfoliata, an American plant which has become naturalised on culti- vated ground, and which has received the common name of American Chickweed. It was first introduced with some plants from America, and has since spread all over the land. It is extremely prolific when it has once become established, but there are not many places where it will grow. One point in its favour is the fact that it commences to grow early in the spring, and grows more quickly than any other ; it smothers them out, while it is itself easy to dispose of. It ripens its seeds by the end of May or a little later, and is lost to sight by the end of June. We have never seen it except on culti- vated ground, where it grows luxuriantly. It is spread by birds — doves and pigeons chiefly — which are very fond of the hard black, shining seeds. Though weeds are a pest and make a lot of work in the garden, yet we should not forget that ground that will not grow weeds will not grow anything. THE ANNALS OF THE LITTLE RED HOUSE.— IV. I FOUND after so many years away from a garden that I had somewhat rusted, but the lessons of one's youth are very durable, and day by day all the old knowledge seemed to revive, and the practical teaching given me by my mother in the schoolroom returned. More especially vivid were the lessons on old-fashioned flowers, amongst which the varieties of double Primrose and border Auricula were her favourites. She grew both in the greenhouse, as well as in the open air, and I remember the wonderful beauty of pots of these simple flowers on the greenhouse shelves in early spring — a large deep crimson velvet Primrose, a royal purple, and golden yellow. Lancashire has always been the home of the Auricula. On my mother's visits to a manufacturing town, where a relative had a living, she would bring back rare and beautiful specimens bought from some poor artisan, who had grown them in a little window in a smoke- darkened street. There they are called Bear's Ears, and by that local name I first knew and loved these charming flowers. But to return to the little Red House. 1 had, of course, to begin to get ready my stock of flowering pknts for the next year. I had done all I could for immediate needs, and I had to be careful about expenses. Having prepared my piece of land for a seed garden, 1 divided it into various-sized beds, edging them with flints, of which I found a pile in the stable-yard, and we covered the paths with ashes as fast as the house supplied them. Here in June I sowed Sweet Williams and Canterbury Bells, keep- ing the colours of the latter separate with a view to future colour schemes. I sowed also a good patch of Wallflower, early and late — with these exceptions I find everything does better in boxes — and pricked out when old enough to fend for themselves against slugs. Antirrhinums especially must be treated so — for slugs are most tiresome when the seed- lings first appear ; in fact, I keep the An- tirrhinums in their boxes until ready to plant out in the borders. I saw also it would be necessary to supplement largely my stock of herbaceous things, and I sowed in boxes Del- phiniums from choice strains Scarlet Lychnis, Oriental Poppies, and Hybrid Aquilegias, 338 THE GARDEN. [Junk 10, 1905. the pretty common varieties which I have bad taste enough to love, were cropping up all over the borders, self-sown, before the first summer was over. I also grew a good lot of Erigeron speciosum, and, of course, Iceland Poppies— the latter are sown every year, as they soon die out. I am sure the amateur gardener often fails in raising plants from seed by using heavy soil with not enough sand. I dare say you have noticed how readily WaHtiowers come up in a gravel path, but, strange to say. Primroses will too. There was no Lily of the Valley bed in the garden, and as this takes nearly as long to establish as an Asparagus bed, I decided to make it at once, choosing a semi-shaded spot and using plenty of old leaf-mould. The difficulty is that the spot selected for coolness and shade is often proportionately dry, and Lilies of the Valley like and require moisture. The aforesaid bed is overhung by a large Yew, so it really does not receive its proper tribute of rain. I planted some well-grown crowns about 1 foot apart, and mulched the bed well in the autumn, giving it copious waterings in the summer. The first season it flowered very sparsely, and it has taken five years to estab- lish satisfactorily. It is, by the by, a great mistake to disturb your Lily of the Valley by taking up crowns for forcing. It is far better to buy well - prepared roots from a good grower, and when they have served their turn they can bs added to the stock. Same people are ci^tremely fond of the process known as robbing Peter to pay Paul, and practise tiresome petty economies such as this and saving Sweet Pea seed, thereby stopping the much - desired production of flowers. Instead, they might save more by collecting dead leaves and burning garden stuff to return to the clamorous soil, and taking care of their pots, nets, stakes, and garden labels, all of which things cost much to buy in the course of the year. I have an occasional roll-call of garden tools, watering pots, truck baskets, etc., and it is astonishing how many defaulters there are. "The sieve was lent to Mr. Smith, who did not return it, and the watering pot had a hole knocked in it, and I do not know what has become of it, and we have never had a measuring tape for years." There is always a large outlay necessary for garden tools on first taking a place, the roller, lawn mower, and water cart representing quite a large sura of money, and it is not the least use buying cheap goods, for the wear and tear is enormous. I should always advocate going to a first-rate house for these things, and I fancy you save a little by buying at head- quarters if they will pay carriage. Then there is the question of garden frames. These can be bought wonderfully cheap now they are made by machinery, but, if you do this, always give them a second coat of paint. We make our own frames ; they come out at a very little less, but we think they are better, and the master is an excellent carpenter and enj lys the work on wet days. I had two charming little miniature frames made to use up the glass of spoilt photographic plates ! So you see, here, as an old sailor friend used to say, " Economy is the soul of tlie Service." In the next article I hope to tell you how wo built our pergola. AtTGDSTA. DE Lacy Lacy. (To be continued.) PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. JUNE. A First Pruc of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUESTEA are offered for the best answers to the following questions. This competition is open to all professional gardeners. Answers, which must be written on one side of the paper only, must reach this ofliice by June 30. The envelopes must be marked " Competition." The Editor can- not undertake to return the manuscript of unsuccessful competitors. I. — Give lists for selection from of six early Peas, arranged in order of earliness, six mid-season Peas, and six late Pea'*, to cover a long season; also give heights of the varieties and suitable distances apart for sowing. II. — Give briefly details as to the best methods of soil preparation and manuring to secure a succession of Peas during hot weather. III. — Furnish briefly practical information as to the sowing and raising of Peas under glass for planting out on a warm border to secure early gather- ings ; also name a few suitable dwarf varieties. IV.— Describe the culture of Peas to be grown in pots, boxes, or on a house floor for gathering early under glass. V. — Name eighteen varieties of Potatoes for selection from for garden culture, classifying them as early, mid- season, and late ; also mention general character of growth, and proper distances apart of the rows. VI. — Describe general requirements _ of Potatoes as to soil preparation, manuring, and times for planting. VII. — Give briefly particulars as to the culture of Potatoes in pots, boxes, or in frameSj under glass, and name a few suitable varieties for such purpose. VIII. — Briefly describe the nature of the well-known Potato disease, how it may be counteracted, and what are the best agents for such purpose. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FOETHCOMING EVENTS. June 16. — Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Inati- tution Festival Dinner. June 20. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting. June 21. — York Gala (three days). Juno 20. — Isle of Wight Rose Show. June 27. — Oxford Comniemoralion Rose Show. June 28. — Farninghani Rose Show ; Southamp- ton (Iwodays); Richmond (Surrey) Horticultural Show. June 29. — Canterbury, Reading, and Walton- on-Thames Rose Shows ; Colchester Flower Show. Primula Veitchii. — We regret that, owing to the mixing of blocks, the illustration of Primula Veitchii in our issue of last week (June 3) waa produced as Primula japonica variety. Primula Veitchii is a new species from China with rosy purple flowers, and an introduc- tion of the highest importance. Brussels Sprout The Bullet.— I am much indebted to Messrs. Fisher, Son, and Sibray, Limited, the R,oyal Nurseries, Hands- worth, Sheffield, for their correction concerning the above excellent vegetable. I am pleased to know the origin of The Bullet Brussels Sprout. There are many really good things in the vegetable family in the provinces that are worth knowing, and, though not often described, they are much valued for their quality. When such vegetables retain their good form for years their value is increased. The raisers or introducers of The Bullet Brussels Sprout say it was sent out in 1890, and from my own close observation the stock at this day is very true. Considering how quickly some of the Braaaicas degenerate this provea it to he most valuable. I have previously noted its lateness, compact growth, and value when larger sorts are past. — G. W^ytues. Leg-aey to a gardener.— Mr. William Smith, head gardener at Newtonairds, near Dumfries, has been left a legacy of £250 by his late employer, Mr. Douglas, who also handsomely remembered several other employes on the estate. Ghent Azaleas out of doors are flowering profusely in the gardens here. W^hen one considers how well these plants thrive, and the pleasing effect they produce, even so near London, one wonders why they are not in much greater demand. When cut and used in large vases they are of undoubted usefulness, and very attractive. — Albert Edward Cartkr (gardener to G. W. P. Woodro£fe, Esq.), North House, Putney. [Mr. Carter sent photographs showing the fine groups of Azaleas, but unfortunately they were not suitable for reproduction. — Ed.] Aster Stracheyi.— This pretty little Himalayan Aster is now in full flower, and is a handsome object in the rock garden. Its blossoms, borne on stems 7 inches in height, are lavender-pink in colour, and 2 inches across. It is earlier than any of the forms of Aster alpious, and its flowers are larger. Though introduced in 1SS5, it is far from common, but its merits deserve a wider recognition. — S. W. F. London as a garden eity.— A large attendance gathered at the first meeting to con- sider the proposal to hold an exhibition in the Eiat End intended to demonstrate what can 1 e done towards the conversion of London into a garden city, or at all events a city of ga: d los. The meeting was held in the council room of the Agricultural and Horticultural Association, Long Acre, with Canon Barnett in the chair. Letters of hearty approval from many representative men and women were read by Mr. Edward Owen Greening, who acted as convener of the gathering. Mr. Joseph Fels, who has given the free use of a farm to the Unemployed Committee, sent with his approval an otKoial report of a successful association in Philadelphia which takes in hand vacant lots of land in that city pending their requirement for building purposes and converts them into gardens, some beautiful, and some profitable. It was resolved to hold an exhibition during the second week in July at the White- chapel Art Gallery, kindly lent by the trustees for the purpose. There will be a show of flowers, fruit, and vegetables grown in London and its suburbs, and plans of garden cities and garden suburbs in existence or under project. The Hon. H. A. Stanhope was elected president. About twenty-five names were nominated for the first council, and a working e.xeculive elected of ten, with Canon Barnett as chairman and Mr. E. 0. Greening as vice-chairman. Mr. Campbell Ross and Mr. E. W. Greening were elected hon. secretaries, It was resolved to divide inner London from its suburbs in offering prizes for exhibits. June 10, 1905.] THE GARDEN. 339 Daisy Alice. — This little Daisy, with its salmon pink, quilled flowers, is certainly the prettiest of its family. The beauty of the indi- vidual blossom on close inspection is undeniable, and a group of a couple of dozen plants provides a carpet of soft colour for many weeks, and is quite a feature in the border. It is a Daisy that all should grow, as it is readily increased by division, and succeeds in almost any soil and exposure. — S. W. F. Dianthus Emilie Pare.— This is one of the prettiest of all the Pinks, and has a far hardier constitution than some of them, such as Napoleon III. and Atkinsoni. Its double salmon pink flowers are of a charming shade of colour, and are produced in abundance. A tiny plant I procured three years ago is now quite 2 feet across, and has been in flower since early March. It has now forty-five perfect expanded flowers on it, and the numbers of strong, branching flower-stems that are now vigorously pushing up show that its flowering season will extend for many weeks yet. It does not seem to be much known, and I have never seen it mentioned in the horticultural Press, but I am sure that no one who has once grown it would willingly be without it. Its flowers are pleasantly, though not strongly, perfumed. — S. W. FiTZHEREERT. Rose Riehmond.— This new Hybrid Tea, judging from a couple of plants flowering in the greenhouse at Kew, appears likely to rank with, or even excel. Liberty as a forcing Rose. It is a rather brighter red than Liberty, and very fragrant. Although only small when received, it is growing freely, and promises to be a per- petual bloomer. Of American origin, it is said to be a cross between Lxdy Bittersea and Liberty. From the demand for plants in America it has evidently caught on, 150,000 having already been disposed of. — A. 0. Veronica g-entianoides. — Although probably met with as frequently in gardens as most Veronica'', this plant is not cultivated as extensively as its merits deserve. It is quite at home in the rockery or herbaceous border, although perhaps its best use is for spring bedding. As a groundwork for the tall Darwin Tulips, or in a bed by itself, it is equally effective. Of very easy culture, it is readily increased by division soon after flowering or in late autumn. The racemes of closely-packed flowers are 1 foot or more in height, pale blue in colour. Alba, a whitish variety, is even more useful for spring bedding, especially when associated with Tulips. At the present time both plants are a mass of flower at Kew, on the herbaceous border and in front of the Palm house. It is a native of South- Eistern Europe and Asia Minor. — A. 0. A hardy Citrus. — (Egle sepiaria is the name in the "Kew Hand List" given to that hardy member of the Orange family just now flowering freely out of doors. Other names, such as Citrus trifoliata, C. triptera, Limonia trifoliata, Pdeud