UMASS/AMHERST 312066 0333 3079 8 '%., '^^ &j^. kr i-Ca .^afflf. 5H>.i.^liricata, 545, 571 Fern, Maidenhair, fronds eaten, 14 Ferns for amateurs' greenhouses and rooms, 156 ; Maidenhair, as window plants, 263 ; Royal or flowering, 214 ; two good for rooms, 32 Fig trees in pots, 129 Flower, a beautiful hardy (Gaura Lind- heimeri), 191 ; show, our coming, 173 ; The Garden, 323. 381, 386 ; the Flame, 382 Flowers, a border of hardy, 422 ; a garden of sweet-scented (first prize essay), 13 ; and shrubs for town gardens (flrst prize essay), 285 ; annual, for dry walls and starved positions, 114 ; autumn, in Lin- lithgowshire, 545 ; Christmas, in the Isle of Wight, 23 ; for a small green- house in winter (first prize essay), 620 ; from Goodwood, 606 ; from the open on Christmas Day, 26 ; good autumn. 481 ; hardy winter, 37 ; picked on Christmas Day. 1007 ; planting rock, 155; spring, 541 ; the protection of, 80; winter, from South Devon, 23 " Flowers and Gardens of Japan," 615 Forsythias, the, 560 Freesias, 3, 435 " French gardening— gold-producing soil," 556 Fruit, a simple method of bottling, 308 ; bottling, 455; essays on, 478; bushes, caterpillars on, 466 ; gathering hardy, 429 ; growers, nurserymen and railway rates, 40 : treatment of ripening under glass, 413 : when to gather hardy, 461 Fruit trees and bushes, the winter pruning of hardy, 557 ; summer pruning, 305 ; at Franco-British Exhibition, 305 ; amateurs', 63 ; manuring, 30 ; in pots, 607 ; pruning, 533 ; renovating of old, 16 ; root-pruning of, 444 : slates under, 594 ; winter treatment of old, 593 Fruits and vegetables, bottling (first prize essay). 303 ; some autumn, worth grow- ing, 632 ; the summer care of small, 396 Fuchsias, bedding, 487 ; for amateurs, 572 ; hardy, 31; how to propagate and grow, liS ; increasing the hardy, 448 ; some beautiful, 229 31055 INDEX. [''The Garden,'' December 26, 1908. G. Galanthus Olgse, 490. 518 Garden, a pretty wild, in Gloucestershire, 5S1 ; a, in Harrow Weald, 302 ; a visit to Mr. Herbert Chapman's, 139 ; an Irish rectory, 447 ; cost of maintaining a, 60 : features, a comparison of, 507, 545 ; Mr. Harry J. Veitch's, 595 ; notes from a London suburban, 410 ; the wild, 249 ; what amateurs have done for the, 595 ; winter work in the outdoor, 613 Gardener, to a scholar, 50 Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution, 49 Gardening for beginners, S, 20, 32, 44, 6S, SO, 92, 104, 116, 130, 144, 157, 169, ISO, 192, 204, 216, 230, 244, 256, 268, 280, 292, 304, 316, 328, 340, 352, 364, 376, 388, 400, 412, 424, 436, 448, 460, 472, 484, 498, 512, 524, 536. 550, 564, 576, 588, 600, 612, QZ(i Gardening of the week, 10, 22, 34, 46, 70, 82, 94, 106, lis, 132, 146, 158, 170, 182, 194, 206, 218, 232, 246, 25S, 270, 282, 294. 316, 318, 330, 342, 354, 366, 378, 390, 402. 414, 426, 438, 450, 462, 474, 486, 500, 514, 526, 538, 552, 566, 578, 590, 602, 614. 63S Gardens, Adelaide Botanic, 26; Royal Botanic, Edinburgh, 159 ; school, in Essex, 50 ; The Warren, Lismore, Ireland, 187 ; water and bog, 179 ; window, in streets, 50 Genista mantica, 618 Geraniums, standard * trained window. 192 ; why grow so many scarlet, for bedding? 3 Ghent Exhibition, the, 209, 220 Gibson's nurseries, 531 Gilia coronopifolia, 74 Gladioli, propagating choice, 193 ; two fine, S)i Gladiolus mystery, a, 88 Gladwin, the, 7 ^ Glasnevin Botanic Gardens, notes from, 225 Glass houses, cleansing, 603 ; how to utilise a range of, 4S Glories of the Snow, white and pink, 634 Gloxinias and their cultivation, 230; how to grow, 202 Gooseberry bushes attacked by insects, 404 ; cultivation of the, 520 ; mildew, American, 39, 193, 224, 406 ; Whinham's Industry, 75 Gooaeberries for north walls, 419 ; how to prune, 81 Gorse, the, 126 ; the double-flowered, 2o2 Gourds, ornamental, 19; for arches and fences, 243 Grape Appley Towers, 53, 87 ; Prince of Wales, 467, 501 Grapes at Wisley, 430; how to grow in pots, 4; injured, 392; the outdoor cul- ture of, 583; the Wisley collection of, 53ri Greenhouse, hanging baskets for the. Iti9 ; heating a small, 35 ; management in summer, 317 ; plants, watering and ventilating in spring. 140; the unheated, 26 : winter in the, 4S0, 492, 510 Grevillea Banksii, 435 Guernsey Lilies from the open, 539 Gunner8b\iry House Gardens in spring, 212 H. llL-ath, a beautiful, 176 ; garden, the, 199 Heather from seeds, 5S0 Heaths, hardy, in flower, 481 ; pruning, 591 Helleborus Peter Barr, 141 Heliotrope and its cultivation, 116 Hehmiopsis japonica, 202 HemerocaJlis Dr. F^egel, 310 liepaticas, niiaing, from seed, 178 Herbaceous l>order, 12 Hibiscus, a beautiful, 66 Hippcastrums, their propagation and culture, 257 Hoe ill the garden, the, 151 Holly berries 618 " Holly, Vew and Box," 614 liollyhocks. 382 Honesty, sy iloneysunklc, a white-flowered (Lonicera Maackii). 40".) Horseradish, increasing and cultivating the, '.*"4 House and frames, airing of, 60 llutchliiBia alpina, 31, 27a Hyacinth bulb.'* diseased, 319 llyarinths at Vincent Square, 187 ; grow- ing in water, 524 Hydrangea cuttings, taking, 515 ; panicu- lata granrliflora, 5W> Hydrangeas, 15 ; blue, 459, 49^); producing blue flowers, 207 Impatiens Holstii, 619 Incarvillea Delavayii, 421 ; forcing, 151 ; wintering, 415 Iris carthusiana, 315 ; Gatesii, 422 ; luteo- alba. 13S ; ochroleuca, 622 : stylosa, 611 ; Vartanii, 507 : warleyensis, 635 Irises, notes on, 466, 4S2, 492. 562 Ivy, how to increase the, 460 ; not cling- ing to walls, 35 K. Kale, a new, 267 Kales, variegated, 86 Kew, notes at, 527 ; the Alpine House at, 175 *' Kew Gardens," 451 "Kew, the Royal Botanic Gardens," 569 Lady's Slippers, hardy, 29, S3 Lselio-Cattleya Pizarro, 153 Lantanasalvioefolia, 548 Lavendula abrotanoides, 619 Lawn, how to prepare and sow a, 100 ; making a tennis, 307 ; mowers, the care of, 329 ; removing fairy rings from, 592 ; the amateur's, 17 Laxton's nurseries, 385 Leeks, 287 Legal point : Fixtures, 295 Legal points, 627 Leonotis Leouurus (Lion's Tail), 112 Lespedeza Sieboldii, 530 Lettuces, early, without glass, 145 Libonia tioribunda, 111 Lilac, a beautiful (Syringa Emodi), 16 Lilacs, the, 64, s9 Lilies of the Valley in winter, 601 Lilium giganteum in New Zealand, 311 ; sulphureuni, 523; to flower in August, 107 Lily, a beautiful, 499 ; of the Valley, forcing. 624 ; (Fortiu's variety), 166 ; the beautiful orange (Lilium croceum), 42 Lime tree leaves with outgrowths, 391 Limnanthes Douglasii as an edging plant, 611 Linnea borealis. raising from seeds, 171 Lobelias, treatment of, 510 Loganberry, the, 471 Logwood (Hfematoxylon campechianum), 384 " London Parks and Gardens," 451 Lowberry, the, 470 Lupine, the many-leaved, 573 Lupines, the, 325 Lycaste Skinneri Orion, 94 Xerine seedlings, raising, 591 ; tardiflora, 619 Xerines, hints about, 553 Nevard, Henry, 615 Nicholson, the late Mr. George, 487 Nigella Miss Jekyll, 1J5 Nomenclature, popular confusion in, 3S3 Novelties, two interesting, 190 Odontioda Charles worthii, 301; Goodson's variety, 5S6 Odontoglossura crispum Leonard Perfect, 288 : pulchellum, 188 Olearia Haasti, 55 Olearias, 570 Oniphalodes verna, 241 Onions, autunm-planted. 193 ; for exhibi- tion, 227 ; how to grow giant, 473 ; sow- ing winter, 425 Orchid, a good winter-flowering, 79 Orchids, beautiful winter-flowering, 1S8 ; new, 47, 134, 159, 207, 222, 249, 323 ; at the Temple Show, 273 Osobery (Nuttallia cerasiformis), 200 M. Magnolia hypoleuca, 384 Maize, cultivation of the edible, 607 Malroaison, introduction of the pink, 175 Mar;;uerites, how to treftt, in winter, 525 Marrow plant, a proliflc, 583 ; Tender and True, 215 Marsh Marigold, an uncommon (Caltha polysepala), 150 Melons and Cucumbers, how to plant, IDS ; late, 324 ; some good, 456 Jlerryweather's nursery, 491 Metrosideros floribunda, cultivation of, 502 Michaelmas Daisies, hedges of, 570 ; methods of increasing, 204. Mignonette Sutton's Red Giant, 262 Mint, lifting and propagating, 217 Mistletoe seeds, sowing, 199,140 Moisture and alpine flowers, 596 Monkey Puzzle in Wales, 267 Montanoa bipinnatiflda, 302 Moss on a lawn, 1"7 Mulches and mulching, 2Sl MuBcari or Grape Hyacinths, 141 " My Garden," 614 N. Narcissi, two beautiful (l-'urnace and Hor- net) 265 Narcissus liarcarolle, 278 ; Buttercup, 238 ; exhibiting and staging. 247 ; Snowsboes, 266 ; the Poeticus section of, 275 Nasturtium, the Flame, 201 Nasturtiums, annual, 131 Nelumbium speciosum Osiris, 457 XemeHias in Scollanrj, 546 ; the beauty of 571 Nepeta Mussinii, 563 NepbrolepiH exaltata Amerpohlii, 72 Pffionia decora alba, 291 Pioonies in Scotland, 419 ; the yellow, 322 Palm seeds, germination of, 24 Pampas Grass, 522 ; in Scotland, 619 Pansies. a simple way of showing, 299 ; for small gardens, 410 ; increasing in the spring, 144 : by cuttings, 49S Pansy, a fine new, 265 Parasite, an interesting plant, 223 Parks under London County Council, notes from, 517 Parsley, how to provide a winter supply, 5SS Paul's nurseries, 519 Pea Gradus grown under glass, 179 ; Sutton's Peerless, 559 Peach and Nectarine leaves diseased, 308 ; buds dropping, 210 ; houses and vineries, making new range of, 272 ; tree buds droppiug, 172, 198 ; trees, treatment of. 449 Peacherine, the, 430 Peaches, leaf-curl on, in New Zealand, 224 Pear Beurre de Naghan, 2 ; President Barabe. 14 : the best winter, 3 Pears and Apples for the New Year, 29 ; cracked, 539 ; diseased, 554 ; two good, 574 Peas, a remarkable crop of, 419 ; culinary, in Scotland, 431 ; dwarf, 224 ; good early, for amateurs, 1 ; for summer and late supplies, 128 ; staking cooking, 269 ; the best garden for a late district, 46 Pelargoniums, Ivy-leaved, and their pro- pagation, 180 ; potting Zona!, 184 ; scented-leaved, 102, 127 Pentstemon, the, as a bedding plant, 447 Perennials for cut flowers, 219 Pergola, a newly-formed, 45S; an interest- ing, clothed with fruit trees, 47 Persimmon fruiting in the open, 574 Phloxes, methods of increasing the herbaceous, 168 Pines, pruning Austrian, 627 Pinks, mcreasing, 3S8 ; notes on Mule, 622 ; wild, 241 Plagianthus Lyalli, 470 Plant, a good wall, 224 ; a useful salad in spring, 70 Planting, natural contrast in, IS Plants, alpine or rock for dry places, 54 ; bedding, from seed, 58 ; how to increase, 499; in winter, 589; potting up old, 473 ; Buchu, of South Africa, 98 ; climb- ing, for greenhouse, 160 ; drying, mounting and preserving, 297; for a bank, 119 ; for a rockery, 307 ; for back wall of Cucumber house, 372 ; for green- house, 147 ; for herbaceous border, 23 ; for pond, 146 ; for north border in South Scotland; 69; for old wall, 234 ; harden- ing off bedding, 165 ; hints on watering pot, 57; how to deal with frozen, 581 ; how to treat frozen, 27 ; in (lower at Chaddlewood, Plympton, South Devon, 606; in flower at Wimbledon, 618; interesting, at Kew, 115; new, 175, 226 29S, 396, 42], 443, 475, 501, 527, 578, 602, 626; at the Temple Show, 280; at Wisley, 463 ; permanent edging, 314 ; potting young, for bedding, 127 ; re- potting room and window, 145 ; season- able hints on the care of room, 33 ; sending to the Transvaal, 3s; sponging, 524 ; the best flfty herbaceous, 611 ; the best hedge for various sites and soils, 4i) ; the distance between, 257: the twelve best wall, lO."!. 126 ; thinning and staking herbaceous, 329 Plants, three good greenhouse, 609 ", two beautiful coloured-leaved, 561 : two new hardy, 290; what to do with frozen. 23; windowandroom, 425 Pleroma maL-rauthum, 3 Plum Coe'a Golden Drop, 99 ; Pond's Seedling, S7 ; the old Green Gage. 30, 87 ; tree, silver leaf in, 42S Plums, some good, for amateurs' gardens, 53 Poinsettias, preserving, 591 Polyanthus Narcissus Mont Cenis, 164 ; Primroses, 423 Polyanthuses and Primroses as pot plants, ISL Pond, construction of a, 475 ; making a, for Water Lilies, 35 Poplar, the new species of, 478 Poppy, the Plume (Bocconia cordata), 387 Potato, a new, 86 ; Sutton's May Queen, 406 ; trials in Surrey, 98 ; tuber producing new ones, 619 Potatoes and Beet at Wisley, 506 ; black scab in, 74, 111 ; how to have new at Christmas. 472 ; in Great Britain, 594 ; lifting and storing, 437 ; new, dug on Christmas Eve, 34 ; scab in, S7 ; sprout- ing maincrop, 130 ; the best and how to grow them (first prize essay), 61 ; (second prize essay), HX) Pots, drainage for, 513 Potting soils, good. 205 Primrose, a beautiful (P. kewensis), 40; Cowslip and Auricula, history of, 241, 251, 277, 301 Primroses, Jacks-in-the-Green, 291 ; the hardy, in pots, 166 Primula kewensis, 111, 211 ; obcouica, 265; outdoors, 322 ; Sieboldii outdoors, 326 ; sikkimensis, top-dressing, 114 Primulas and their culture, 525 ; hardy early-flowering, 166; hardy, from seed, 253; Messrs. Webb and Sons', 234 Prize cup. 615 Prizes for readers, 2 Puff-ball, the giant, 467 Pyrus floribunda atrosanguinea, 276 Pyruses, two beautiful, 384 Rabbits and wire-netting, 186, 251 Radishes, a catch crop of, 181 Raspberries, thinning and planting, 536 ; work among, 293 Raspberry Piofusion, 15 Renanthera coccinea, 327 Rhododendron, a beautiful, 228; a good, 470 ; an interesting (R. rhombicuni), 267 ; Hercules. 633 Rhododendrons at Regent's Park, 298 ; grown tall and straggling, 331 Rhubarb Daw's Champion. 559 Riviera notes, 11, 72. 134, 300, 619 Rock garden, a newly-made in a town, 434 ; how and where to make it, 477 ; how to make a small (first prize essay), 237 ; in winter, the, 7 ; notes on a, 7 Rock gardening, 41 Rocket, propagation of the double Scotch, 545 Ronineya Coulteri, 3 Rosa wichuraiana and its history, 184, 313 Rose, a beautiful new single, 288 ; a dwarf, for pots, 396 ; a fine long-stemmed, 479 ; a flue new Polyantha, 154 ; a fragrant new, 496 ; Aglaia, 164 ; a good sport, 396 ; a lovely Tea, 633 ; analysis, the, 161, 176, 189, 212 ; it parfum de L'Hay, 662 ; arches, making firm, 6 ; Augustine Guinoisseau reverting back, 40s ; bank, a, and its making, 3S6 ; Baron Armgard von Biel, 547 ; Baronnu Piston de St. Cyr, 445 ; beds, arrange- ment of, 19 ; beds in sandy soil, 43 ; blooms with green centres, 327, 395 ; books, three, 233 ; Caroline Testout as a standard, 124 ; Charles Lefebvre, 386 ; Conrad F. -Meyer, 124, 327 ; Countess of Gosford, 420; culture, secrets of, 326; Debutante. 143 ; Dorothy Page-Roberts, 252 : Dorothy Perkins as a standard, 493 ; Dundee Rambler, 53 ; Electra, 575; enemies, 4S9 ; Fran Ernest Borsig, 303 ; garden, suggestions for, 120 ; General Jacqueminot, 162 ; Gloire Lyonnaise. 163; Griiss an Teplitz, 633; Hugo Roller. 177 ; Instituteur Sirdey, 1»9': Isabella Gray, 519. 531; Isabella Sprunt, 634 ; Joseph Lowe, 496 ; Miss Glegg, 634 ; Lady Roberts early in the year, 303 ; La France on light soil, 621 ; Laurent Carle, 396 ; Lina Schmidt - Michel, 6 ; Mari;*chal Niel and canker, 406, 469, 607 : Medea. 242; mildew in small ganlens, 405; remedies for, 319 ; Mme. Charles de Luze, 396 " The Garden," December M, 1908.1 INDEX. Rose Mme. Segond Weber, 433 ; Mrs. Aaron Ward, 212 ; Mrs. David Jardine, 4'Jfi ; Mrs. Ed. J. Holland. 535 ; Mrs. Edward Mawley in Australia, 279 : ! Mrs. E. Ci. Hill, 67 ; Mrs. Littleton Dewhurst, 4n7 : notes from Scotland, 433 ; Paula, 433 ; Philadelphia Rambler, ! 201 ; planting, 409 ; in March, 124 ; I plants, Briar suckers on, 304 ; removing I in June, 36; pruning, a hint on. 138 ; Reine Carola de Saxe, 113 ; Renee Wil- niart-lTrban, 243 ; rust or orange fungus, i 252 ; Sarah Bernhardt, 408 ; season, I prospects of the coming, 309 ; j Society, the National, G17 ; stocks, ! 404 ; The Ashford, 420 ; The Crimson Damask, 571 ; The Damask, 497 ; The Lyon, 548; Theresa Bevan, 633; Mar^chal Niel, 19 ; tree stems, grey mould on, 28 Roses, a novelist's, 288 ; among the, ISv), 201, 405 ; an excellent check for mil- dew on, 479; and manure, 67; and Sweet Peas at Kew, 322 ; and their scent, 497 ; attacked by weevils, 391 ; autumn, 406 ; autumn ■ flowering (first prize essay) 441 ; Ayrshire, 243 ; by the sea, 463 : climbing Teas and Noisettes on pergolas, 408 ; climbing, under glass, 28 : Damask, 575; do we manure too much? 54; do we repot our, too often? 67 ; early-flowering, 313 ; exhibition, from cut-back plants, 259 ; experiences of, 264 ; for forcing, 562 ; for shaded trellis, 528 ; gathered on Christmas Day, 28 ; Hybrid Perpetuals as climbers, 598 ; in a South Bucks gar- den, notes on, 496 ; in cold frame, 439 ; in defence of exhibition, 598 ; in Novem- ber, 687 ; in the wild garden, 609 ; Japanese, 493 ; Kbnigin Carola and Caro- line Testout, 633 ; Lady Alice Stanley and A. Hill Gray, 493 ; manuring, 86 ; and repotting, 111 ; mildew on, 404 ; new, 445 ; for budding. 303 ; seedling at the autumn show, 465 ; notes on the wild, 42, 54, 89; pegged down, 248; plant- ing against trees, 600 ; propagating by soft ■ wooded cuttings, 313 ; pro- tecting standard, 6 ; pruning, 97, 112, 124 ; newly ■ planted hedge of, 107 ; Rambler, 446 ; in pots, 262 ; season- able work among, 264, 279, 611 ; single and semi-double as standards, 242; some good decorative, 575; some new, 621 ; some new of 1908, 493 ; standard wichuraianas, 479 ; sweet- scented, 490, 518; Tea, planting from pots, 223 ; the newer, 456, 510, 635, 547, 686 ; the present treatment of, under glass, 164 ; to avoid, 38 ; treat- ment of climbing under glass, 103, 413 ; trellises for protection of tender, 79 ; two new, 53 ; xmder glass, mulching for, 143 ; variety wanted in forciug, 176 ; weeping standard, 508 ; wild (species), 6 ; winter - flowering, 619 ; with curled foliage, 391 ; with extra tall stems, 201 ; with malformed centres, 510 "Roses: Their History, Development and Cultivation," 133 Ross, Mr. Charles, 584 Rubber planting in Mexico, 2 Rowan Berry jelly, 454 Salads, autumn, for amateurs, 420 ; how to grow fine summer, 304 ; two easily- grown winter, 10 ; winter, 150 Saintpaulia ionantha, 65 Salvia dichroa, 76 ; splendens, 263 Saxifraga Boydii alba, 177; (rrisebachii, 214 ; longifolia, 175 ; and offsets, 224, 287 Saxifrages, the ii^ieen of, from seed, 142 Scabious, the annual , 55 : the J apanese, 532 Scarlet Runners, how to grow, 205 Schizanthus, how to grow the, 263 "School, Cottage and Allotment Garden- ing," 556 School gardening in Surrey, 62 School gardens (first prize essay), 185 Scillas and their culture, 634 Seakale, easy methods of forcing, 612 Seed pans and boxes, treatment of old, 65 Seeds, longevity in, 304 ; mistakes made in sowing, 141, 174 Seedsman, the sorrows of the, 139 Semele andiogyna, 432 Sericographis ghiesbreghtiana, 01 Shortia unitiora, 2112 Shrewsbury show, the great, 417 Shrub, a beautiful evergreen (Veronica Traversii) 434 ; a fragrant greenhouse (Michelia fuscata), SO.i ; an uncommon, for forcing, 276 ; for grass plot, 48 Shrubbery, the, 12 Shrubs, acclimatisation of foreign, 152, 187 ; flowering, in July, 409, 444, 534 ; in winter, 2 ; planting against walls, 3 ; propagating evergreens by cuttings, 424 ; rare and good, for planting, 633 ; that need pruning now, 64 ; two beautiful and easily-grown flowering, 55 Sinningia bybrida Dr. Maxwell Masters, 399 Slugs, insects and flowers, 266 Small holder, a, on his fruit, 508 Snapdragons, how to grow, 10& Snowdrop, Boyd's Cassaba, 623 Snowdrops, forcing. 642 ; in grass, 551 Snow scene in April, 275 Soils, potting, for plants, 525 Solanums and their culture, 473 Sophro-Cattleya anttochus rubra, v)4 ; Doris, 609 ; eximia (Fowler's variety), 5 Spartium junceuni, 434 Spinach, a good hot-weather, 217 Spirfeas, the shrubby, 211, 228, 240 Sproughton hoe, 310 Squill, the striped, 214 ; the two-leaved (Scilla bifolia), 114 Squirrels in London, 619 Stachyurus pra^cox, loi Stakes, overhauling, 601 Staphylea colchica, 55 Stocks and Phlox Drummondii, 107 Strawberries, planting in autumn, 408 ; in pots, management of, 432 ; rust on, 319 ; work among the, 217 Strawberry, a good late, 306 ; cultivation of the, 290, 312 ; forcing, 30 ; plants, layering, 316 " Studies in Gardening,' 614 Sundews (Droseras), the, 213 Sunflower, the Willow (Helianthus orgy- I alls), 42 Sutherlandia frutescens, 478 Sweet Bay, Yew and Laurel, propagation of, by cuttings, 436 Sweet Pea Annual, 49 ; Countess Spencer, 418 ; Evelyn Hemus, 253 : nomenclature, 98, 174, 198, 239 ; notes, 433, 623 ; pros- pects, 383, 395 ; Society, National, 618 ; National Society's trials .at Reading, 78; streak, 73, 79, 199 ; trials, 14 S we 3t Peas, an enemy to, 149 ; at Aldersey, 52.1 ; at the Temple Show, 283 ; bud- dropping in, 410, 447; classittcationof, 459 ; cross fertilisation of, 419, 483, 532, 560, 697; for exhibition, 150; for table decoration, S3: from Hampstead,401; how to grow, 4 ; in pots, 2ri ; in tubs and pots, 483 ; propagating by cuttings, 226 ; savinir seed of, 421 ; some good, 77 ; streak in, 97 ; the variableness of Spencer, 407 ; to grow next year, 532 ; varieties to grow this year, 126: work among, 165, 277 Sweet Sultan, the white, 115 Sycamore seedling with four cotyledons, 275 T. Table, a useful seed-sowing, for amateurs, 163 ; decorations in the autumn, 613 Temple Show, the, 266 Thalictrum dipterocarpum, 434 " The Book of Nature Study," 566 " The Insect Book," 504 ^' The Perfect Garden," 451 Thompson, resignation of Mr. P. Murray, 26 Thyme, methods of propagating, 244 Tomato, an amateur's, 71 ; Frogmore Selected, 400 : Lye's Early Gem, 267 Tomatoes, Beans and Potatoes, trials of, at Sutton's, 660 ; for fruiting in early spring, 498; in autumn, treatment of, 401 ; in small greenhouses, 231 ; outdoor, 245, 137 Tools, the care of, 601 Town garden, 94, 106, US, 132, 146, 168, 170, 182, 194, 206, 218, 232, 246, 258, 270, 282, 204. 306, 318, 330, 342, 354, 366, 378, 390, 402, 414, 426, 438, 460, 462, 474, 486, 600, 514, 626, 537, 661, 565, 577, 589, 601, 613. 626, 637 Town gardening and cats, 276 Tree-stumps, destroying, 580 Trees and shrubs, new, 608 ; uncommon early-flowering, 266 ; with winter beauty, 11 Trees, flowering, 17, 71 Trenching and manuring, the art of, 574, 585 Tritoma primulina, 619 Trumpet Flower, how to grow the, 91 Tuberoses, overforced, 190 Tulip La Merveille. 126 ; Ophir d'Or with bulbils in the leaves, 250 ; Prince of Austria, 143 ; seedlings. Parrot, 605 ; species, thoughts on, 398 ; terms, the meaning of, 209, 221 ; the Water Lily (Tulipa kaufmanniaua), 191 Tulipa saxatilis, 214 Tulips at Colchester, 283, 299 ; diseased, 295 ; early, for pots, 547 ; for cutting, 529; in demand, 478 Tupelo Tree, the, 534, 571 Vallota purpurea, treatment of, 579 Vanda suavis pallida, 1S8 Vegetable, a useful spring -Chou de Bedford, 267 Vegetables, autumn and winter, 521 ; raising early, 47 ; the French system of growing, 287, 300, 324 Veuus's Looking-glass, 253 Verbascums at Glasnevin, 509 Verbena, the, 178 Viburnum Carlesii, 286, 299 Vine, the Hampton Court, 73 Vines in small vinery unsatisfactory, 319 ; mealy bug on, 75 ; mildew on, 395 ; renovating old, 561 ; summer stopping the shoots of, 312 ; the planting of young, 99 ; the treatment of young, 167 ; well-grown, 30 Viola elatior, 326 ; gracilis, 202 Violas for exhibition and how to grow them, 610 ; or Tufted Pansies, beautiful, 394 Violettas, how to increase the, 328 Violet Cress, the, 39S ; plants in pots, 139 Violets, information about, 72 ; single and double, 279 ; the culture of, 422 ; ways of increasing, 268 Wallflowers and how to grow them, 231 Wall gardening, 311 AValls, dry. for rock plants, 646 Wasps and destruction of queen wasps, 109, 13S. 150, 175, 198. 310; keeping vineries free of. 418 Watercress, the cultivation of, 677 Water garden, a, 435 Water Lilies and their culture, 314 ; for pond, 627 ; hardy, 386, 397 ; plants in tubs. 161 Watering, 311 Watkins and Simpson's trial grounds, 46S Watsonia O'Brienii, 17, 38 Wellingtonia struck by lightning, 310 ^A'hat an artist Nature is ! 311 Windflowers, two rare, 264 Wineberry, the Japanese, 607. 533 Winter Cherry, how to grow the, in pots, 5'2 Wistaria raultijuga, 407 Woburn Fruit Farm, eighth report of, 74 I Work to do during frosty and wet weather, I 57 , Workers among the flowers, 455 Worms in lawns, 298 York Jubilee Gala, 320 Yucca, a fine, 31 Zephyranthes aurea, 325 ILLUSTRATED ARTICLES Agapanthus umbellatus in Mr. Fitz- herbert's garden, 105 "Alpine Valley" in Rev. T. S. Lindsaj's garden, 447 Amaryllis Belladonna in a Jersey garden, 531 Anemone apennina growing on a bank, 482 ; purpurea, 254 ; blanda, a drift of, 227 ; blanda in Mr. Bickham's garden, 114 ; nemorosa Blue Queen, 254 Antirrhinums and Pentstemons, increasing by cuttings, 400 Apple, Bramley's Seedling, old orchard of, 549 ; Charles Ross, 584 ; Encore, 584 ; fasciation of the, 123 ; F'eltham Beauty, 445 ; Lane's Prince Albert in a small garden, 03 ; tree, an old espalier, carrying a good crop of fruit, 533 ; decayed in the stem, 632 Arctotis aspera arborescens, 571 Arum Lily, increasing the, SO Aubrietia Lavender, 242 Auricula Mildred Jay, Douglas, 241 Auriculas, border, 280 Bamboo, an easily-grown hardy (Phyllo- stachys fastuosa), 211 I Berberis arguta in Glasnevin Botanic Gardens, 481 Bee, work of the leaf-cutter, 501 Begonia, a beautiful double white tuberous, from seed, 27 Begonia, culture of the tuberous -rooted, 216 Begonias, extra frilled single (coloured pkitc), 103 ■ propagating flbrous-rooted, 92 Bocconia cordata, 387 Border, a mixed, in a London garden, 411 ; a, of hardy flowers in a Kent garden, 422 : a, of picturesque beauty (second prize photograph), 500 Phyllis Borders, mixed, in Mr. E. A. White's I garden, 511 Box edging, lifting and replanting, 60warf White were identical. Awards of merit were unanimously granted to the following : Early Rose (Veitch and Sons), William's Matchless Red (Veitch and Sons), Grove Pink (Nutting and Co. ), Pink Beauty (Barr and Sons), New Solid Pink (Barr and Sons) ; and previous awards to Standard Bearer (James Carter and Co. ) and Ivery's Non- such Pink (Veitch and Sons) were confirmed. Evidently coloured Celeries stand excessive wet better than white ones do, and generally seem late to show best flavour. Of the four stocks of Celeriac, one, the best, came from Veitch and Sons, and that had an award of merit also. Some four plants from every row were lifted, cut through the middle to expose the heart, and all rigidly examined. In no case was the name of the sender of the stock given until after the award to it had been made. A new Pear. — A fine new Pear was placed before the fruit committee at the Royal Horti- cultural Society's meeting in December last. It was shown by Messrs. Cheal and Sons. The committee unanimously voted it an award of merit with an alacrity which was quite refreshing to witness, as it is so seldom that the committee is moved to enthusiasm by exhibits placed before it. The opinion generally expressed afterwards by those who had tasted the fruit was that this variety will at once take its place in the front rank of high quality Pears. It is named Beurr^ de Naghan, is of large size, pale golden in colour, reminding one a little of Duehesse d'Angouleme in size and outline, but infinitely superior to that variety in the texture of its flesh, being buttery, mellow, juicy and perfectly free from grittiness or hardness at the core, while for a Pear of its size the flavour is very sweet. It is a Continental variety, and if its other attributes, such as hardi- ness, free growth and fertility are equal to its appearance and flavour, there is no doubt what- ever we have a valuable accjuisition. — Owen Thomas. A beautiful new Chrysanthe- mum.— A beautiful Chrysanthemum which will doubtless become popular is the Marquis of Northampton. This is a sport from W. A. Etherington. The flowers are of a lovely golden bronze colour, a colour that is particularly welcome to many lovers of Chrysanthemums. This new Chrysanthemum was awarded the first- class certificate of the National Chrysanthemum Society on November 18, 1907, when it was exhibited by Mr. A. R. Searle, Castle Ashby Gardens, Northampton. — C. Ruse. PRIZES FOR READERS. JANUARY. THE BEST POTATOES AND ROW TO GROW THEM. A First PfUe of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth PrUe of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best essay on " The Best Potatoes and How to Grow 'rhem." The notes (restricted to 1,500 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked "Competition," addressed to " The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than Friday, .January 31. Both amateur and professional gardeners may compete, but it is hoped that those who contribute regularly to the pages of The Garden will not do so. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS., and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor accepts no responsi- bility for and cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. The Editor's decision is final. January 4, 1908.] THE GARDEN. CORRESPONDENCE. ^7%e Editor is not responsible for the opinimis expressed by correspo^idents. ) The Tree Poppy (Romneya Coulieri).— The Rev. E. M. Hill, Holy Trinity Rectory, Dorchester, sends a photograph of this beautiful shrub ; but, unfortunately, it will not make a good reproduction. The following note, which accompanied the illustra- tion, is interesting : " I am sending you a photo- graph of Komneya Coulteri, and am sorry it does not give a better idea of the extreme beauty of the plant. It flourishes exceedingly well here in a cold soil with chalk subsoil, but no wall or other shelter near it. The plant measures 42 feet round, and some of the shoots are over 6 feet high. We attribute our success with this plant in a great measure to the fact that the original plant was by chance placed where there had been an old path ; it now spreads rapidly, and throws up shoots at a great distance. It dies off every year, and we out down the old shoots in the spring, just before the young ones begin to shoot up. At one time (last September) there were almost 100 blossoms out at once, and it flowered freely from July till the heavy rains in October stopped further blooming. Consider- ing how very hardy Romneya Coulteri is, it is strange that we do not see it grown of tener, the plants being now quite moderate in price. It seems to flourish in the open much better than near a wall, where I have often seen it doing very badly." illinondS fpuitingr.— With reference to the correspondence about Almond trees, we picked some Almonds on December 16 from our trees and they were quite good to eat. — Aldershot. Bees in the gapden. — One or more hives of bees should be in every garden, both large or small, for, apart from the advantage of always having a supply of wholesome honey for home use, much interest and benefit may be derived in various ways. In the first place, they are profitable when well managed. In this neighbourhood honey is readily disposed of to the retailer at Os. per dozen lib. sections, and I have no doubt that a remunerative price may be obtained in other localities, provided that the sections are full of light-coloured honey and are presented to the purchaser in an attractive manner. During summer bees do a vast amount of good in the fertilisation of fruit blossoms, besides visiting daily other flowering vegetable and fruit crops. Even in glass structures con- taining various fruit trees, besides Cucumbers and Melons, the bees will enter when they are opened in sunny weather, and carry on their good work, which would otherwise need to be done by hand. There are many kinds of hardy flowering plants that the bees abstract large quantities of honey from. The best winter Pear.— The belief has been hitherto pretty general that to grow Winter Nelis Pear to perfection the assistance of a warm wall is necessary. In warm and favour- able seasons the best results are to be obtained from this variety on pyramid trees grown in the open. Growers should make a note of this fact, and hasten to plant this, certainly one of the best and most indispensable winter Pears in cultivation, in some warm corner or other of their garden. It will be well to qualify the above by saying that in cold and unfavourable seasons this variety is a disappointment in the o'pen, and therefore a reserve of trees on a warm wall should be provided where possible. — B. Planting shpubs against walls. As many gardeners and amateurs will still have some shrubs to plant against walls, it may be well to remind them that the colour of the walls and the flowers or fruits of the shrubs should be considered. The other day I saw a splendid fruiting plant of the Fire Thorn (Crataegus pyracriutha), that was entirely spoiled by the dull red brickwork to which it was nailed. — H. THE GREENHOUSE. FREESIAS. THESE sweetly - scented flowers are exceedingly beautiful, and also useful in winter and early spring. Potting should be done in good time, so that the plants can be got forward as needed. Nearly all the failures met with in trying to flower the Freesia are from one cause, which is late potting. They should be potted early in August, and grown on as cool as possible, as the longer they are kept in a cold frame and the more air they have so much sturdier will be the growth, while the flowers will be finer and more lasting. The soil should be light and rich, consisting of three parts of turfy loam to one part leaf-soil, with a sprinkle of sand added. This will suit them admirably, other conditions being favourable. Five-inch and 6-inoh pots are most suitable, with nine to twelve bulbs in a pot, covering them with about half an inch of soil. If the soil be fairly moist no water need be given until some signs of growth are seen. After potting, place them in a cold frame where they should remain as long as the plants continue to grow, giving air on mild days, and covering up with mats in ease of severe frost. Under this treatment the plants should be ready to remove into a cool greenhouse about the first week in November, where they should be kept near the glass and plenty of water given. At this time the plants will need staking, which should be done with very thin sticks and fine raffia or the effect of the plants when in flower will be spoilt. When the pots are full of roots and the spikes are forming weak liquid manure about twice a week will be of great benefit. If forcing is resorted to it should of the very gentlest description, otherwise both plants and flowers will be a failure. The best sort is F. refracta alba, white, sweet scented. After flowering is over is a critical time for Freesias, as then the new bulbs are just swelling and finishing growth. Between the dropping of the flowers and the begimiing of the leaves changing colour the plants should be given liquid manure when required until the foliage dies down. When this has taken place the pots should be placed in a position, no matter how hot or dry, and let the bulbs roast in the pots until potting time comes again. A shelf in a vinery or similar place will answer where rain cannot penetrate. The following season the bulbs should be sorted and the best potted and grown in the same way, when the result will be most satisfactory and pleasing. Ehham Hall Gardens^ Lincoln. G. Sizer. WHY GROW SO MANY SCARLET GERANIUMS FOR SUMMER BEDDING? Amateur gardeners, and jobbing gardeners especially, nurse up with expensive fires and a great amount of trouble hundreds of cuttings year after year, and the resulting sameness of the bedding out becomes very monotonous to those who look for variety in the annual garden plan. It may be of interest, therefore, to indicate a change of tactics in the pre- parations for the ensuing summer, instead of so much of this now customary red Geranium bedding. What could be more beautiful and novel than a scarlet bed of the lovely Suther- landia frutescens, named after the compiler of a botanical catalogue. This splendid species was grown last year in Finsbury Park (throughout a bad summer), reaching the highest state of per- fection. Some few seasons ago a plant of this species was seen growing out of doors in a pot in grand style, and this seems to point to its coming usefulness for our summer bedding out. The writer secured a packet of seed and has been growing the plants along ever since, with the result that, at the moment, they"have become fine [specimen standards already nearly 3 feet high, while the seedlings, some of which have only just been sown, will be brought on as dwarf plants to use next season for the ground- work of the bed, in which, to add further bright- ness, will be planted standard pink Lantanas, Cyperus Natalensis (ornamental grass), yellois' Begonias, Anthericum variegata, blue Lobelia and the edging all round the bed will be Alter- nanthera versicolor grandis. Another good bed for effect which was found to grow to perfection last year was planted as follows : One standard Heliotrope in the middle, two Kochia Scoparia round the Heliotrope to hide the stem, two Eucalyptus oordata and two Artemisia abores- cens in front, the latter's most beautiful silvery leaves just rising like a bouquet around below the umbrella of the standard Heliotrope. In front of this was planted the Sutherlandia frutescens, Solanum pyraoanthum (Holy Thorn) and Cnicus Chamsepeuce Diacantha (cultivated Thistle) alternately. The edging used round the bed was white Alyssum Koeniga maritima grown from cuttings, and here is a point : Do not grow this from seed or you will find the plants any- thing but compact. The effect given by this bed was much admired by many gardeners. For his part, the writer will certainly aim more and more at this style of bedding in the future, and this in spite of the fact that he grew some fine beds of Cannell's Paul Crampel (jeranium last year with blooms more than a hand across and petals over 2 inches wide. It should be mentioned that Sutherlandia frutescens is quite easily grown from seed sown at the beginning of December and in practically a cold green- house. Keep the seedlings close up to the glass and frequently syringe when the plants are about 2 inches high, then, as the days draw out and the sun's rays become more powerful, remove the plants to a cooler situation. H. Selborne Boome. Holwell Hyde, Hatfield, Herts. PLEROMA MACRA.NTHUM. This beautiful flower is often met with under the name of Lascandra macrantha. It is suit- able for the conservatory or cool greenhouse, and should be planted against a wall where it has plenty of room to develop. Its value is very much increased by the fact that it flowers during winter, a season when flowering roof plants are very scarce. Here it is growing over the roof of a corridor, where its beautiful deep violet-purple flowers are very attractive. It is planted in a shallow border in a mixture of turfy loam and peat. During the summer months when growth is active plenty of water is needed, and old- established plants also enjoy stimulants. After flowering the growths are shortened back near their base, and the plants given a short season of rest till growth is again active. It is easily propagated from cuttings taken from the plants in a half -ripened condition during the spring. Froymore. E. H. CHRYSANTHEMUM MME. PAOLO RADAELLI. This is a grand variety, and the raiser (Calvat) may well be proud of the high position it has occupied since he first sent it out. Its deep yellow sport (Mme. G. Rivol) is also a flower worthy of its parent, and there may possibly be a whole family of sports, as there have been with some other well-known show flowers. At the recent Paris Show an exhibitor staged a large number of blooms from another sport of Mme. Paolo Radaelli called Mile. Marthe Raffard. The flowers are reddish buff, the build and form of the sport otherwise resembling the parent. It is worthy of note that Mme. Paolo Radaelli was awarded the second prize for the finest bloom in the Paris Show. C. H. P. THE GARDEN. I January 4, 1908 THE FRUIT GARDEN HOW TO GROW GRAPES IN POTS. THE pot Vines in fruit represented in the illustration are one year old plants, or sixteen months from the " eye " to the time the fruit was ready for use. The most important point connected with the fruiting of Vines in pots is to have w-ell-grown and well- ripened canes. To produce fruiting canes in one I'OT VTNES IN HODNKT HALL GARDENS. season, they require much" care and attention. Our method here is as follows : The eyes are inserted singlj' in .Sineh pots in the early part of February and jjlaced in the propagating frame. As soon as they have rooted sufliciently they are potted into fJinch pots and grown on in a temperature of dj" to 70°, keeping them well syringed morning and afternoon. As soon trained up the back of the house, which is a three-quarter span. As soon as they have grown about 8 feet they are " stopped," and all laterals stopped at the first leaf. I like to have them potted in their fruiting pots as early in August as possible ; the pots used are 14 inches in diameter. In these the}' can be cropped for two seasons with success. The soil for this potting is made somewhat richer than before by the addition of some half-inch bones and Thomp- son's Vine Manure, and some brick or mortar rubble should also be added. After potting they are placed in a cooler house, the h ouse in which they will fruit the following year. Here they are tied up to the wires, fully exposed to sun and light, where they remain until the beginning of October. By this time the pots should be well filled with roots and the canes beginning to ripen. They are now placed out of doors in a sheltered position, where the pots can be covered in the event of frost or lieavy rains. About the second week in December they are brought into the house again (having been pruned a montli or six weeks previously), and started in a tem- )ierature of 50° to 55°, allowing a rise of 5° when the buds begin to break, gra- dually increasing it to 70° by the time they are in flower, always allowing a further rise by sun- heat. Very little water will be re- quired at the roots for the first few weeks. As soon as the buds are seen to be breaking well, the back and front of the pots and the intervening spaces are packed well up with leaves and stalile litter ; this will assist root- action and also pre- vent the soil from drying so quickly in hot weather. As regards stopping, ventilating, kc, they will now require the same treatment as permanent Vines. When carrying a crop of fruit, they will require abundant supplies of water and plenty of liquid manure. For a change I find Tliompson's and l)lood manure very beneficial. The varieties in the illustration are Black Hamburgh and Foster's Seedling. The heaviest COLOURED PLATE. PLrATB 1340. these pots are well filled with roots, they are bunch of Black Hamburgh weighed '21b. 15oz transferred into 8-inch ])ots. A suitable compost for this potting is three-parts good filjrous loam, one-part well-rotted manure and wood ashes, with a little charcoal. After this shift the pots are plunged to the rims in leaves and the shoots the two best bunches totalled 5Jlb. No doubt such varieties as Black Alicante and Madresfield Court could be grown much larger, but I have not tried them. W. R. Catt. ^Hodnet flail Gardens, Salop. HOW TO GROW SWEET PEAS. 1AM frequently asked whether the present popularity — it is sometimes miscalled a boom — in Sweet Peas will ever wane, and while I should not like to positively affirm that they will always enjoy the remark- able position to which they have attained during the past seven or eight years, I most certainly do not think that they will ever fall into a low estate. They are essentially the summer garden flowers for all, as they will thrive and produce hundreds or thousands of blooms in conditions in which other plants, equally as cheap to purchase and simple to grow perhaps, would do little more than eke out a bare and unsatisfactory existence. I am firmly of the opinion that if the craze for the distribution of novelties, more or less good and distinct, is not carried to an extreme degree, and that tliose which are sent out are properly fixed (this, however, seems an almost impossible matter with some of the waved standard forms) that the Sweet Pea will be a far greater favourite at the end of the next decade than it is at the present time. It is to be feared that some growers will become tired of the constant increase in the number of varieties, especially when they find three or four that are so close that it is practically impossible to distinguish the one from the other when they are apart. What is far more desirable with varieties that are almost identical with others already in commerce, is a still further reduction in numbers, so tliat growers may feel when they are ordering that they will be sure to receive something that is at once good and perfectly distinct. There is little doubt in my mind that when the floral committee of the National Sweet Pea Society gets fairly settled down to work it will go far to clear up all matters in connexion with varieties, and I am perfectly certain that, no matter whence it comes, the new variety that receives the first-class certificate of the National Sweet Pea Society will be of out- standing merit, and that such distinction will come to be regarded ere long as a reliable hall- mark of excellence. The start this season was full of promise of the greater and better work that is to follow year by year as long as the society continues in its present course of prosperity. Soil Preparation. In the successful culture of Sweet Peas, whether they are grown for the adornment of the garden or for exhibition, I do not think that there is any point more important than this. To attempt to grow the finest plants in shallow soil that is in poor heart is to court comparative failure, but to sow the seeds or set the plants in deep land that is in perfect heart is to have taken a long stride towards success. The minimum depth to whioli the soil should be worked is 2 feet, and if it is possible to go half as deep again so niucli the better. As far as the addition of manure is concerned I would urge the desirability of generosity tempered with judgment, and especially the thorough incorpora- tion of the material with the soil, as I do not consider the laying of manure in solid masses is wise or advantageous. With the second spit natural manure may be mixed in digging, working it in as early in the year as possible, that is to say, where the work was not done in tile autumn. If manure is put in the surface soil it should be perfectly sweet, and if it has had its more active virtues taken from it by Mush- rooms or some other crop, it will yet serve the Sweet Pea in excellent stead. Seed Sowing. Whether the seeds are sown in single or double lines the drills should always be flat-bottomed, and never out triangularly with the corner of a January 4, 1908. J THE GARDEN. draw hoe as is sometimes done. For double lines : netting of very large mesh answers splendidly as | article readers are referred. I should like, how- the flat drills, more correctly perhaps trenches, I a support, and, although somewhat expensive at ever, to say just a little about St. George, should be at least 15 inches in width and 2 inches ' the outset, is cheap in the long run, as with care j This is the brilliant scarlet-orange-eoloured in depth, and a row of seeds should be set 1 inch ' it will last for several years. | variety that received the first-class certificate from each side. I say that the seeds should be j When a plant has ample space in which to ' and silver medal of the National Sweet Pea " set " and not sown continuously along the ' grow, it will make a natural break close to the ! Society in July last. That it is superior to any entire length, as the latter practice involves j base and produce many shoots (my friend Mr. j of its shade I have little doubt, but I am not by waste of seeds, and it is seldom when they all ' Apps of Hastings had one plant with twenty-five i any means satisfied that it can fairly be termed a germinate that an individual will be found with , stems this season, and he sold the flowers from I waved variety, although I have several times sufficient courage to thin them out to the proper that one plant for ■2os. , at which price one does seen it described as such. In this respect it distances. For single lines the flat drills should , not mind giving Id. or •2d. per seed), and these be .5 inches or ti inches wide and '2 inches deep. If the seeds are placed 3 inches asunder the seedlings should subsequently be thinned as necessary until each has from 12 inches to 18 inches of space in which to grow. Thus it will be seen that we shall sow some five or six should be reduced to three, four or five, according to judgment, this reduction being done in stages so as not to cause a severe shock to the plants. Times of Sowing and Planting Out. y Both of these operations are largely governed times as many seeds as we require plants, and i by the weather, as it is far better to be either a allow a margin for the birds and slugs to have ! few days early or a few days late than to put the 1 years, the share to which they apparently think them- selves entitled. Of course this practice is only pos- sible of adoption with standard sorts, as when we come to anything under a dozen seeds for Is. it is not wise to per- mit the natural enemies to have any at all, and steps must be taken to prevent them from doing so. It is common and ex- cellent practice to sow seeds in pots and place them in cold frames in January and February, and when this is done I would again urge the necessity for hardy cul- ture. To treat the plants as though they were tender is an error that is certain to be followed by disastrous results, and it should be strenuously avoided. Fill6-ineh pots to within 1 inch of the rim and place five seeds round the sides of each ; or put one seed in the centre of a small pot. Have the soil pleasantly moist at the time of using, stand the pots in a cold frame, never putting on the light except during snow or torrential rain, and the ' progress will be steady and strong. As soon as the seedlings appear the frame should be covered with fine - meshed wire netting to keep the birds at bay, or they will top the plants quickly and effectually. The soil in the pots should never become sodden. Staking the Plants. SOrHRO-CATTLEYA EXIMIA (FOWLER'S VARIETY). This is another operation to which the amateur does not always attach sufficient importance. No matter what the variety may be or where it is growing, the young plant ought to have support when it is 3 inches or 4 inches high ; this may take the form of twiggy stakes, such as the pieces from an old besom, and they should stand about 12 inches out of the ground. Before the plants have reached the top of these the permanent stakes should be put in position, and if necessary the growths should be lightly attached to them with bass, but this is not invariably essential. Hazel makes the best supports, and should be procured if possible, and there ought to be at least 7 feet clear of the ground — more in those climates where the plants attain to a height of 10 feet or 12 feet. Wire seeds or plants out when the cliniatal conditions are not favourable. For out-of-door sowing in the spring about the end of the third week of March gives excellent results, and successive sowings ma}' be made if necessary up to the end of April. Plants from seeds sown under glass in spring or autumn should be put out into their permanent positions as soon as the \\'eather and soil are suitable towards the end of April. Feeding the Plant.s. As soon as the plants are well in bud, never earlier, feeding may commence if it is considered necessary ; but as long as the plants grow strongly and appear to be getting abundance of good food from the soil, there is no advantage in having recourse to special feeding. When it is done let the liquid, whether it is made with natural manures or concentrated fertilisers, be given in a weak state when the soil is pleasantly moist ; if it is applied wh n the soil is dry at least half of its virtues will be lost to the plants. Select Varieties. I do not purpose taking up valuable space by naming a selection of varieties, as Mr. Alexander Malcolm gave an admirable review of the best in The Garden for November 2, 1907, and to this appears to be somewhat unstable, for some flowers show signs of waviness, while others have perfectly smooth standards. I am awaiting the next flowering season with much interest, as the point will then be quickly settled. If, as is said, the blooms do not burn, all will agree that St. George is one of the most desirable Sweet Peas that has been introduced during recent Sutton's Queen, of which a coloured plate is given, is a new variety that was shown last simimer ; it is a beautiful sort, the flowers being very large, waved, of a cream colour, deli- cately edged with pink. Under the provisional names of Mrs. Rothera and Miss Hilda Chamber- lain it received an award of merit from the National Sweet Pea Society and a first - class certificate at Wolverhampton. Many other new varie- ties are excellent, and one might quote many names. The thing to aim at in the future will be the retaining only of those new varieties that are a decided advance in habit, colour, size and '• form on those now in existence. The Spencer or waved sorts seem to be the most favoured at present, and Mr. Cole considerably changed the form of the flowers when he introduced that still charming variety Coun- tess Spencer. The grandi- flora sorts, however, still find many favourites, their bold, upright stan- dards giving them quite a distinct appearance. No matter what type we favour most, our object grow the plants as well as we II. J. Wright. [We are indebted to Messrs. Sutton and Sons for the flowers from which our plate has been prepared. — Ed] should be to possibly can. SOPHKO-CATTLEYA EXIMIA (FOWLER'S VARIETY). This is a lovely form of the hybrid Sophro- Cattleya eximia, the parents of which are Sophronitis grandiflora and Cattlej'a bowringi- ana. The result is a dwarf plant that has more the habit of a Cattleya than a Sophronitis, while the flowers partake of both. This variety is of larger size, and constitutes an all-round improve- ment on S. -C. eximia. The flowers measure about 2i inches in diameter, the sepals and petals being of a lovely magenta-crimson hue. The lip is rich crimson streaked with rich gold at the base. It was shown by Mr. J. Gurney Fowler, Glebelanda, South Woodford, before the Royal Horticultural Society on December 10, when it received a first-class certificate. As will be seen in the illustration, two flowers were borne on a rather stout stem. THE GARDEN. [January 4, 1808. THE ROSE GARDEN VV J M WILD ROSES (SPECIES). AY I p'lt in a plea for the increased planting of some of the more interest- ing and beautiful forms of the wild Roses that have been obtained from all parts of the globe, and which, when rightly planted (referring more particularly to situation) flower, as a rule, before the cultivated varieties, which generally satisfy - the requirements of most Rose-lovers ? Apart altogether from the interest which they possess as the parents (in some cases) of our garden Roses, they are in many instances deserving of culture for their own sakes, and it adds immensely to the interest of one's Roses if one can find room for a few of the very many wild Roses that can now be obtained from most Rose nurserymen worthy of the name, some of whom, at any rate, of recent years have made a speciality of the species. There is an excellent article on this subject in "Roses for English Gardens," which book I would recommend to all your readers who may not have come across it as the best all-round Rose book yet published, of which I should like to see a second edition, revised and brought up-to-date with detailed descriptions of our best exhibition and garden Roses. Perhaps the proprietors of the Country Life library will take the hint. Allowed to grow naturally, unpruned in the ordinary sense of the word, with an occasional thinning out of the old wood, some of the species grow into most beautiful garden plants that are quite a revelation to those who do not know tbem. The majority of them flower early, and only once; but they quite make up for this by their wealth of Rose hips of all kinds, colours and shapes and their often beautiful foliage. I can recommend any and all of the following varieties to those who like to have something out of the ordinary (and who does not?) in their garden; they can be obtained, as a rule, at a cost of 9d. to Is. 6d. per plant. Bona acicularis (the Needle Rose) is a native of .Siberia, and in the winter months might easilj- be mistaken for one of the various forms of rugosa, as its stems are as thickly covered with sharp spines, but it is distinct at other seasons. Its flower is a bright deep pink of medium to large size, and the foliage might be termed glaucose, and the flowers generally appear by the middle of May ; it is, therefore, one of the early Roses ; sweetly scented. Its good points do not end there, as its fruit is quite distinct, being long and Pear-shaped, not round like the rugosas, with a f c;w spines seen on the fruit, so that it might be termed the Prickly Pear Rose. Coming as it does from Siberia, there is no doubt about its hardiness. Best on its own roots, and not difficult to raise from cuttings. if. a/pina (the alpine Rose, not the flower which goes by that name in Switzerland, which is a species of Rhododendron) is a native of Europe, and there are at least three distinct forms, of which I ha^ e only two — the type, always the earliest Rose to flower with me (often weeks before our native Dog Rose). The stems of one year's growth assume a reddish hue, and are almost without thorns. The flowers are bright rose-pink in colour, and can generally he picked in any ordinary season the first week in May. The t3'pe is the parent of the Boursault Roses ; there is a double form of it that is free and of good habit. Another variety that comes from the Pyrenees, and is so called, is of much dwarfer habit, and a good subject for the rock garden. It, unlike the type, has spiny foliage, and has been sent to me under the name of nitida, which, however, is someihing quite dis- tinct, having round hips instead of the very long ones that aie tjpical of all forms of alpina. if. altaica. — A native of North Central Asia and China, allied, no doubt, to Rosa spinosis- sima, but of more robust grow th. This makes a fine bush ; it can also be recommended for ahedge. Fairly early, this season it bloomed twice with me, quite a number of flowers being produced in August ; its beautiful pale lemon-white flowers are always much admired. Small foliage that turns to a pretty variegated brown shade in late autumn, which contrasts well with the small deep black hips. if. arvensis (Native). — The variety known as Miss .Jekyll's is the only one I have. (The type can be met with in most of our hedges). It is rather larger in flower than the ordinary type, and is a very rampant grower. R. arvensis is the parent of our^; Ayrshire Roses, those free- PKOTECTING STANDARD BOSES WITH OLD WINE- BOTTLE CASES. flowering ramblers of which Bennett's Seedling is probably the best. if. Bankaite (China). — Too well known to need comment. All who have a warm sheltered corner should grow the small yellow-flowered variety against a wall. It is exactly one hundred years since this Rose was introduced into England, and the centenary might well be celebrated by planting it largely. There are, I believe, four varieties, but the double yellow and the double white are the most popular. It rarely flowers the first season after planting ; but if left alone and not pruned will well reward you for the necessary patience. Thornless. if. heygeriaiia (Central Asia and the Himalayas). Not particularly beautiful ; interesting owing to its unpleasant smell ; the small white flowers are produced in July. if. fe/an(/a(North America). —This and itsdouble form (fl. -pi. ) are both worth growing. It makes a good bush ; its flowers are salmon pink in colour, and of rather larger size than usual with these wild Roses. It is sometimes called the Labrador Rose. R. hractmta (China and Central Asia).- One of the most beautiful of the species, one might almost say of all single Roses. It is very dis- tinct, and also very tender, must have a sunny, sheltered wall, and is well worth taking care of. Practically evergreen, it objects strongly to be covered with a mat, but protection is absolutely necessary. The flowers, which are freely pro- duced on established plants, contrast well with the beautiful dark green shiny foliage. There is a double form called Marie Leonida, which is not, to my way of thinking, half as beautiful as the type. One misses the contrast of the yellow stamens and the white petals. if. Carolina (North America). — This somewhat resembles Rosa lucida, but it has the advantage of flowering right through August and September when all the species have finished. The flowers are freely produced and are of a light pink shade ; it makes a fine bush and will grow 6 feet high ; the foliage is thick and the leaflets long and narrow. Smooth wooded with few thorns. if. ciniiamomea. — I am not sure of the native habitat of this Rose. The flowers are small, flattish, and produced on yellow-brown wood, not very freely, and are of a pale pink in colour ; it will grow into a medium bush. if. Fendleri. — The feature of this scarce species is the colouring of its foliage in the autumn, helped by the bright stems ; it is then a very pretty picture. R. yallica (centifolia x damascena). — The ancestors of our modern Hybrid Perpetuals, hence here grouped together, although quite distinct otherwise. Their varieties are numerous, and cover all the Damask, Cabbage and striped Roses of our forefathers. Mostly sweet-scented. Ballata, a variety of centifolia, is sometimes known as the Lettuce-leaved Rose, and the foliage is distinct. Mrs Orpen is a good type of Hybrid Damask, large single pink flowers, and Rosa Mundi, sometimes, but erroneously, called York and Lancaster, a type of the gallica. Otto of Roses is largely made from a variety called Kazanlik, one of the Provence Roses allied to this group. Purity. Herbert E. Moltneux. (To be continued.) PrtOTECTlNG STANDARD ROSES. The accompanyingphotograph, kindly sent by Mr. F. Sanderson, Bower Mount Road, Maidstone, shows a method of protecting standard Roses with the straw covering from wine bottles. MAKING FIRM ROSE ARCHES. May I offer a small tip for a sound foundation for Rose arches, pillars and so on ? Worried with the decay of the wooden plugs to which the iron rods used to be secured causing fungus on the Rose roots in addition to the general collapse, I oast about for a better plan, and hit upon the following : Take a drain-pipe, say, 6 inches or 8 inches in diameter, fill with concrete and insert, sa}', three pieces of old gas-pipe. When properly set, place in its position, then insert your iron arch — in my case a triangular one with three rods — level properly and pour in a little liquid cement. In a little while the whole thing is as firm as need be and will last as long as the ironwork or the Rose. Sulhampstead J. T. Strange. ROSE LINA SCHMIDT-MICHEL. I HAVE an impression that this will become a general favourite as a decorative Rose. It is one of those large-flowered, semi-double sorts we all admire so much, especially when possessing, like this one, lovely colouring. We naturally look for something good from a seedling of Mme. Abel Chatenay, and I am sure one will not be dis- appointed. It is a fine bold grower and just the sort of Rose to plant in an isolated position on the lawn ; have them well cared for, but spare the knife. We want to encourage the growing of more of this type. It is quite a pleasure to meet now and then real good large bushes a blaze of flowers, and there are numbers of Roses suit- able for such a mode of culture. There is a novelty of last season's introductions, which will become, if I mistake not, a general favourite. Its name is Sarah Bernhardt. Its colour is as vivid as that of Duke of Edinburgh ; the blooms, however, are semi-double. It will be a gorgeous garden Rose if it proves to be free-flowering enough. We should be thankful for these large- flowered, semi-double Roses. They provide some beautiful groups of colour. For instance, where can we surpass Bardou Job ? P. January 4, 1808.J THE GARDEN. THE ROCK GARDEN. THE KOCK GAKDEN IN WINTER. IN midwinter the appearance of a rock garden is certainly not very attractive, owing to the many bare ledges and pockets which in the spring and early summer months are occupied with plants showing beautiful patches of colour. Apart from the Christmas Rose, one of the most beautiful and welcome of our hardy flowers which is now about at its best, and the Algerian Iris, with its lovely purple and white flowers, there is little else to be seen in bloom. However, the place is not entirely devoid of interest, with the silvery cushions of crusted Saxifragas, and the bright green carpets of the mossy sorts, to say nothing of other evergreen plants such as Stonecrop (Sedums), Sempervivums, Pinks, Galax, and Shortia, with their various forms and shades of colour. At the same time there are the Snow- drops, Winter Aconites and Anemones ready to pusli their way up and unfold their welcome flowers with the least encouragement of mild and sunny days. Work to be Done. All through the winter months there is much to be done in the rock garden. If not previously done in the autumn, all plants that require it should be top- dressed, using a - - mixture of fine soil, leaf-mould and sharp sand. Many plants, like some of the Primulas, have a tendency to form stems and grow away from the surface of the ground, with the result that they appear leggy. If top- dressed, fresh roots are emitted higher vip the stem, and thus the plants benefit to a great extent by this being periodically per- formed. Mossy Phloxes, Achii- leas, Aubrietias and othersimilar carpeting plants should have a like compost worked in between their prostrate stems. Where there is room between the plants, the soil should first be stirred up slightly with a liandfork and all weeds cleared off before putting on the top-dressing, kept at all times for For smaller choice things a good protection is a zinc hoop about 3 inches deep placed round the plant. A good method of catching slugs is to put down here and there little patches of bran covered with a piece of slate or glass to keep it dry. This forms an attraction for them, and they can be caught in great numbers at night. One of the beot ways of keeping down their numbers is to frequently examine their known favourite plants at night when they come out to feed. Transplanting. If not previously carried out in the autumn, which is the best time for replanting early spring flowering plants, all transplanting should be firushed off as soon as possible. Pockets that have got sour should be emptied and refilled with good soil, taking care to put plenty of drainage at the bottom. The stronger free- growing plants that show signs of having ex- hausted the soil of the pocket in which they are growing should be taken up and replanted in a larger one with fresh soil, while the pocket from which it came may be renewed ready for something else. Where there is danger of a choice plant being overrun by a coarser-growing kind, one or the other should be moved to a more suitable position, so that the weaker one will have a fair chance to develop. Labelling is important, and usually occupies a great deal of time where large collections are to be kept but a useful size is one with letters three- sixteenths of an inch. Except for larger plants this makes a plain enough label. After the letters are punched in the lead they are filled up with white enamel, the whole surface then being wiped over with a cloth so as to leave the letters clear and distinct. When dry the labels should be wiped over again with a rag saturated in linseed oil to preserve the lead from oxidisation. All dead leaves and decayed matter should be cleared away from the plants, as it only harbours snails and slugs, and the rock garden should be made tidy ready for the promised display of beautiful sheets of flowers in the near future. W. Irving. NOTES ON A ROCK GARDEN. The rock garden shown in the illustration has been planned and made during the last five and t in wmcn tney , ^-half years by Mr. Montgomery, with the help "Ski" f ^! „!;°w i °f ^ willing and intelligent gardener, but without " """ '° the aid of a landscape gardener. The space which the rock garden now covers was originally a wood, and the trees which still remain round the garden give great shelter from the north and east winds. To the left in the illustration is a large bed of Anemone japonica, which in a mass is very effective in September. The tall shrub nearly in the centre of the picture is the beauti- ful Spiraja flagelliformis. This specimen is over 5 feet high and each shoot is covered early in June with clus- ters of white rosette - shaped flowers. The white flowers seen at a dis- tance to the right are blos- soms of Rom- neya Coulterii, which does ex- tremely well in this garden, dying down in the autumn and coming up with renewed vigour every spring ; it only requires a few branches as protection in the winter. The rock garden is approached by a stepping - stone path through a very damp piece ' if ground, and at the side of this path is a small pond, on the edge of which a large patch of Iris Kampferii flourishes. a CHARMIN(i ROCK GARDEN WHICH WAS ORIGINALLY A WOOD. A sharp look-out must be Slugs and Snails, which have their special favourites among alpine plants. Among those especially liable to attack are Omphalodes Lucilia;, Auter alpinus. Cam- panulas of the smaller sorts like C. Saxifraga, Crepis aurea, and other kinds which have suc- culent leaves and buds. If neglected, the growing points are liable to be eaten off, with the result that there is no flower the following season. correctly named. Lists should always be made in fair weather of all plants that want re- labelling, so that it is ready on wet days when one cannot work outside or in hard frosty weather. Various kinds of labels are used, one of the best being made of sheet lead, cut to ] and fine grasses, thL shape. This makes a most serviceable label, i room decoration fo THE GLAD- WIN. This Iris fceti- dissima is one of those good plants that is much and undeservedly neglected, and it is much to be regretted. When in fruit the open capsules, showing their beautiful orange-coloured seeds, are most ornamental. When tastefully arranged in a vase, with some of its own foliage combination forms a useful the winter season. This which at the same time is not conspicuous ' native Iris does well in almost any moist position, enough to mar the general effect. For making ' The spikes of seed vessels should be supported these labels it is necessary to have a flat piece of | with sticks in early autumn to prevent them iron or steel on which to lay the lead for punching in the letters. The size of the type is optional, falling to the ground, spoil many of them. which would probably THE GAEDEN. [January 4, 1908. QARDENING FOR 'BEGINNERS. GARDEN WORK WEEK BY WEEK. Fi LOWER C4ARDEN. — In frosty weather, when the ground is hard, I wheel on manure and fresh soil where digging operations are necessary. Now is an excellent time to prepare new beds and borders and to renovate old walks and make new ones. Relay or level turf and sweep and roll lawns during open weather. Roses. — Protect dwarf. Tea and other Roses. Ample protection can be afforded by placing a plentiful supply of Bracken among them and by drawing the soil round the base of the plants. Standard Briars to be budded next summer should be planted now. Greenhojise and Ccmservatory. — Keep the glass clean, as this greatly promotes healthy plant life. Plants in the cool greenhouse should be watered only when they are dry at the roots, and this should be done in the morning. Venti- late with care, as sudden bursts of sunshine unduly raise the temperature. Close the venti- lators an hour or two before sunset, and thus conserve the warmth. Bulbous subjects for forcing may now be brought indoors in successive batches. Cliryaanlhemums. — Propagation by cuttings may now proceed apace. Select shoots that are free from buds and that have developed 1 inch or 2 inches from the base of the old stems. Send orders for novelties and scarce sorts with- out delaj', or there may be delay in executing the same. For decorative uses propagate batches of the singles, Anemones and Pompons. The best position to root the cuttings is in an improvised frame on tne side benches of the greenhouse. Cold Framtn. — Open the frame-lights on every possible occasion, as an hour or two of such treat- ment of the occupants is beneficial. Remove decaying foliage, and stir the soil between the plants and cuttings, as this does much good and saves many plants. Very little watering will be required at this season. Provided adequate pro- tection can be afforded. Chrysanthemums may be rooted in small pots in the cold frame. Prepare for severe frosts by securing an abundant supply of litter and good mats. The Vegetable Garden. — Ground intended for root crops, such as Carrots, Parsnips, and Beet, should be trenched without delaj', frost and the weather at this season contributing so much to its value and fertility. Vacant ground generally should be dug over forthwith, incorporating at the time heavy dressings of good manure. Deep culture invariably answers well for vegetables ; for this reason, therefore, let the ground be THE AMERICAN HOLLY. to remain for some hours during the day if frost has reached the plants. THK SKA IIL'CKTIIOKN. deeply dug, and all kinds of decaying garden refuse be dug in. Leave the surface soil in a rough condition. The Window Garden. — Window plants should be watered with rain-water that has been made slightly tepid. Water carefully, however, treat- ing only dry plants to this consideration. The well-being of plants may be encouraged by periodically sponging foliage plants, using tepid water and milk. Window-boxes may be planted with small shrubs, in this way imparting a pleasing appearance to the windows. It is early yet to think of repotting plants that need fresh soil or pots of larger size ; leave this operation until the end of February. The more tender plants in rooms should be removed from the windows in frosty weather, as the contrast between the day and night temperature is often very extreme. Plants may be screened from the cold by placing muslin or newspapers between the windows and the plants, allowing the screens TREES AND SHRUBS WITH ORNAMENTAL FRUITS. Now 13 THE Time to Plant. When planting trees and shrubs the effect in spring and summer is too often the only considera- tion, the remaining six months of the year not being thought of. The fact, however, that a number produce ornamental fruits in autumn and winter must not be overlooked ; they serve to brighten up the garden and give it an added interest during the dull season. Sprays of many of them can also be cut for indoor decoration, being especially useful during the Christmas season, forming a welcome relief to Holly berries. A number of the larger fruited Crabs can be utilised for making jelly when fully mature. Some of them, in addition to the highly-coloured fruits, are useful when in flower. The illustrations will give an idea of what the plants are like, but it is impossible to do them full justice, as most of the fruits are red, and this, as those who dabble in photography know only too well, is one of the worst possible colours to deal with, invariably coming out black. Crabs. — These attain to the size of small trees. The best known with ornamental fruits is the Siberian Crab. The Cherry-like fruits are yellow, tinged with red. The Japanese Pyrus Ringo has small yellow fruits. There are a number of varieties of the White Beam Tree (P. Aria) with highly-coloured fruits, the variety Majestiea being one of the best. Quite distinct in appear- ance to those already mentioned is the Mountain Ash (P. Aucuparia). This is sometimes met with in villa gardens and also occasionally as a street tree. It has large leaves and clusters of scarlet fruits. The upright growing form var. fastigiata can be highly recommended. Haiiihorus [Crata-gits). — These can usually be depended on to carry a heavy crop of fruits. The January 4, 1908.) THE GAKDEN. Evergreen Thorn (C. Pyracantha) is the one most generally met with in gardens grown for the berries. It is no uncommon sight to see it trained up a dwelling-house 20 feet or more in height, and literally aglow with clusters of orange red berries in early winter. It is often necessary to hang nets over the trees to protect the berries from birds. Planted in the border it forms a nice bush. The Washington Thorn (C. cordata) attains the size of a small tree. The small red fruits often remain on the trees after many others have disappeared. There are a number of varieties of the Cockspur Thorn (C. Crus-galli). Like the last, this also grows into a small tree. The small scarlet fruits are edible, so that it is not advisiblo to plant it in the front garden, as small boys are very partial to them. In contrast to these, we have the Chinese (C. pinnatitida) with much larger fruits and C. nigra with black fruits. An interesting form of our common hedgerow Thorn has rich yellow fruits. Its botanical name is C. Oxyacantha var. fructo luteo. Sea Buchthorn, or, to give the tree its Latin name, Hippoph;e rhamnoides is well shown in the illustration. A frequent cause of failure to ONION PLANT OVERPOTTED, AND DECAYING IN CONSEQUENCE. obtain fruits on this tree is that many persons are unaware that there are male and female forms. As fertilisation of the flowers must take place before berries are produced, two plants, one of each sex, must be planted together. One male tree, however, is sufficient to fertilise several females. Except when the trees are fruiting, an expert has a difficulty in distinguishing the two trees. In addition to the orange yellow fruits, the greyish green foliage is highly ornamental in summer. Holly. — This is such a well-known tree that no description is needed of our common forms. The fact, however, that there is a variety with yellow berries is not usually known. The Latin name is Ilex aquifolium var. fructo luteo. Our common Holly is a native of Europe and Asia. An illus tration of the American Holly (I. opaca) is given to show how nearly it resembles some of the forma of the European plant. Rose Box. — This common name very well describes the members of the Cotoneaster family, for the leaves resemble those of the Box and the plant belongs to the great natural order Rosaceae. Planted in the open several of them are low- growing shrubs ; they will also clothe low walls and fences when planted against them. C. rotundifolius is useful for this purpose ; the small fruits are scarlet. C. horizontalis is naturally a low-spreading bush ; planted against a fence it will grow 6 feet or more in height. C. frigida and C. Simonsii are more upright growing plants, having prominent fruits in autumn and winter. The foregoing families by no means exhaust the list of trees and shrubs with showy fruits. Tlie Roses have not been touched upon, as several illustrations and descriptive notes have appeared in the pages of The Garden during the past year. The Snowberry is a very easy shrub to grow, with conspicuous white fruits in autumn and winter. The common Spindle Tree has reddish fruits enclosing orange-coloured seeds. There are several forms of the Prickly Heath, Pernettya mueronata, differing in the colour of the fruits, which are red, white, purple or pink. It forms a close-growing bush 2 feet to .3 feet high. Where to obtain the plants written about is sometimes difficult. Readers need have no fear of being unable to obtain any of the plants named here from advertisers of trees and shrubs in the pages of The Garden. A. N. THE ONION PLANT. The Onion Plant, which rejoices, or otherwise, under the botanical appellation of Ornithogalum longibraeteatum, is among the oppressed and downtrodden of the plant world, for one rarely indeed sees an attempt made to do the plant bare justice. Judging by the treatment generally meted out to this long-suffering flower-pot decoration, there would appear to be a popular idea abroad that it can live without soil or water, so little of either does the plant generally get. But every rule has its exception, and in the illustration is shown a plant which has had too much of both soil and water. Too much soil liegan the trouble, and the owner was told that his plant required a bigger pot ; he interpreted the hint too liberally. More soil, he thought, meant more water, and again his liberality outran his discretion. Result : the soil became sour and stagnant, and the plant drifted into the state of ill-health in which it is portrayed. To remedy this state of affairs — not only with Onion, but with other plants— all the old soil should be shaken away, the roots washed in tepid water, and all brown and decayed ends cut off. Then the plant should go into a clean, well- drained pot only just large enough to receive it comfortably, some light and sandy soil used for filling up, and little water given for a few weeks. If slightly warmer quarters can also be given, the progress of the plant to robust health will be facilitated. FORCING CHRISTMAS ROSES. To force Christmas Roses in perfection the plants are best lifted and potted in October, and grown as cool as possible until their flower-buds show prominently, as do those in Fig. 1 . But Christmas Roses are fairly good-natured plants, and one may even now lift them from the outside border and hurry them into flower in the greenhouse. They should go into a deep pot or tub, accord- ing to their size, injuring the roots as little as possible in the process, and be well watered in. A week or fortnight in a cold frame will help them to get accustomed to their new quarters, and by that time they should have somewhat the appear- ance of Fig. 1, from which, by the way, the leaves have been removed in order to show the condition of the flower-buds. Plants in this condition very soon open their flowers in a warm greenhouse, and rather less soon in a cold house or room. They must have plenty of water during their development, and an occa- sional dose of liquid manure will be appreciated ; if in a living room, the plants should be taken to CHRISTMAS ROSE AS T.4KEN FROM COLD FRAME. the scullery sink to receive their manurial stimu- lants. As showing that good plants and flowers may be grown in an ordinary sitting-room, it may be mentioned that the plant shown in Fig. 2 was grown entirely in dwelling-rooms ; in a cold room until it had reached its first stage, and in a warm room to open its flowers. If placed again in a cold room when the flowers are about two-thirds expanded a good plant will remain in bloom several weeks. FLOWER - BEDS AND BORDERS IN WINTER. Experienced flower gardeners are quite agreed that the majority of the plants now used for making masses of bloom are very exhausting to the soil, and require to have a good foundation laid for their culture as do many of our vegetables. Few plants are more exhausting to ooil than Verbenas, Heliotrope, Calceolarias and Geraniums, and the unsatisfactory appearance ' which these frequently present can be as often attritnited to the want of liberal treatment as to anything else. If deep draining and cultivation are needed to produce good crops, certainly such conditions apply to the flower garden. An accu- mulation of water about a bed of flowers is jjroductive of evils that will thwart the efforts of good management in all other respects ; it will keep down the temperature of the soil, prevent the natural action of the atmosphere, and lessen the chances of getting the soil pulverised and sweetened. Every flower-bed that is wet should therefore be well drained, as this is the first step in successful flower gardening. As to deep culti- vation, the benefits derivable from it are so many that it would be difficult to enumerate them all. It opens the soil so that the roots can penetrate it more easily, and in drj' seasons go down where the soil is moist and escape to a greater extent the evils of drought. In wet seasons the water escapes more freely to the drains or subsoil. CHRISTMAS ROSE : THE SAME PLANT IN FLOWER. 10 THE GARDEN. [January 4, 1908. GARDENINl OF WEEK. THE FOR THE SOUTH AND SOUTH MIDLANDS. Kitchen Garden. F the weather is wet or frosty work must be arranged accordingly. Walks may be mended or regravelled during wet or showery weather and the edgings made good, and if too wet for outside work the roots may be examined and any decayed specimens removed. Large labels for the vege- table quarters might be prepared. Painted well and clearly written much time may be saved and the work better executed if done on bad days. In frosty weather manure should be got on to the ground. Forcinij Seal-ale.—Vai in more Seakale to force, and cut any crowns as soon as long enough. If more are desired stand the ends in dishes of water. Forcing Asparagus. — Make up another frame of stable manure and leaves for a second lot of Asparagus. As soon as the temperature is about 6.5" to 70° the roots should be placed in thickly and covered over with 3 inches of fine soil. On the surface sow very thinly a pinch of Carter's forcing Radish, and endeavour to keep the tem- perature of the frame at .35° to 60° ; if kept hotter the growths will be very weak and the bed not so lasting. Asparagus should be cut when about 6 inches long, tied in bundles, and placed in water till ready for cooking. Froit Houses. Pruning. — Continue to prune and clean Peach, Nectarine and Cherry trees ; thoroughly wash the woodwork, wire and walls of the houses. This is very important, and after the painting or whitewashing ot the walls see that the ventilating gear is in proper order. This work should be done at this season when the houses are empty, and nothing should be overlooked that may be likely to cause trouble later on. In pruning the Peach and Nectarine cut out as much of the old wood as possible and lay in the young shoots straight up from the base. The earliest Peach house may now be closed for forcing. See that the border has been well cleaned and prick it over with a fork. If it is at all dry give a thorough watering. Greenhouses and Conservatory. Late Chrysanthemuim. — These structures should now be gay with late Chrysanthemums, Lily of the Valley, Spiraeas, Cyclamen, Azaleas, Camellias and Roman Hyacinths. Keep the conservatory spotlessly clean and at a tempera- ture of 55° to 60-', as this will suit most plants. The plants that require most heat, such as Poin- settias and that class, should be kept at the warmest end and be free from draughts. Chrysanthemum cuttings may now be put in. Bouvardias that have finished flowering should now be rested. Hardy Fruit. Pruning. — Proceed with pruning the Pear and Apple trees, also with root-pruning. Do this thoroughly, as most probably a tap-root may have gone straight down under the centre of the ball. Currant and Gooseberry Bushea. — These may be sprinkled with lime mixed with petroleum. This is a very good way to keep birds from destroying buds, and they have already com- menced. Another good plan is to put black cotton over the top of the trees. This I have found very effective, especially in isolated cases, such as Almonds, where they are placed for spring effi-Ct. Fruit Room. See that all varieties are clearly labelled, as the owner may like U> go and see them. This is always a distinct advantage. Each variety should be labelled when sent in for dessert. If hard frost prevails, put up shutters to the windows, or, failing these, mats over, as a pro- tection against frost. This will be found much better than fire-heat. In modern fruit rooms this is scarcely ever provided, but I know it is in some old-fashioned ones. W. A. Cook. (Gardener to Sir Edmund G. Loder, Bart. ) Leonardslee, Horsham, Sussex. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. FOR THE NORTH AND NORTH MEDLANDS. Kitchen Garden. Tender Vegetables. — There will now be more demand for tender vegetables than can be supplied from the open, unless some means are taken to eke out the supply. Brussels Sprouts and early Broccoli are not so pleutiful as usual ; Broccoli will lift well and give heads just the size needed if taken up before severe frosts check the growth. It is not safe after this date to rely upon tying up the leaves over the flowers ; it is better to house the plants. The Cardoons this season have made a much later growth than usual ; but it will now be well to lift them and place them under cover. They will remain good a long time in a cool store. Good use may now be made of the Large Batavian Endive as a vegetable if the plants are fully grown. Chicory forced in the same way as Seakale, if grown slowly and the growths cut when 4 inches to 6 inches long, makes a good vegetable and an agreeable change. Vegetables stored some weeks ago must be kept as cool as possible. I find Potatoes are growing out badly, and it should be borne in mind that all roots that grow freely in the store will soon lose quality. Fruit Under Glass. Early Tmcs. —Black Hamburgh and Foster's Seedling which were started in November will now be moving into growth, and should be treated to a slight increase of both day and night temperatures, 55° at night and from 60° to 62° through the day will be suitable. With sun- heat the thermometer may be allowed to touch 70° before air is given, and if cold winds prevail allow the temperature to run up a little beyond the fixed standard rather than open the ventilators. Plants Under Glass. Double Chinese Primroses. — The huge plants of these which are now to be seen in quantity, demonstrate in a forcible way the ease with which not only the finest varieties may be grown, but their exceeding value for supplying beautiful double flowers during the winter. The process of propagation, which should begin in January, is first to remove some of the outer leafage, then to notch slightly the bases of the crowns in layer fashion, then to drop the plants into pots a good size larger, and place round the tops an inch of fine sandy soil. If stood in gentle warmth rooting soon follows, and when each plant is lifted from the pot and the newly-rooted parts are severed from the old, then get into small pots and return to gentle warmth, very quickly are sturdy plants obtained. When shifted into larger pots later on, the best for them is a cool span frame, where, standing on a firm ash bed, good growth is continued. Eventually they may be got into 6inch, or, if very strong, into 7-inch pots, and in these well established, soon begin to carry bloom. Flower Garden. Getting Work Forward. — Should the weather be favourable it will be advisable to take every opportunity ot getting work forward in this department. Live edgings of all kinds may be planted at any time during the winter when the weather is suitable. In the formal part of the garden neatness is imperative, and all edging plants should be kept trim. T. B. Field. ((iardener to the Baroness Berners. ) AshweUthorpe, Norwich. TWO EASILY - GROWN WINTER SALADS. DURING the dull, short days of winter 1 there is always a scarcity of salads, I but this shortage may be remedied I to a great extent and with little trouble by those who are the fortunate possessors of a heated greenhouse. Mustard and Cress is a salad crop that is already largely grown by amateurs, but it is certain that the majority of them do not get the best possible results for their labour and expen- diture. A few shallow boxes — U inches deep is quite sufficient — some finely-sifted but sweet soil, some crocks and a good supply of seed are all that is required. One good-sized crock over each hole in the bottom of the box will provide ample drainage. Old potting soil is frequently used, but this is not desirable, fresh soil, finely sifted and containing a large percentage of sand, being by far the best. Fill the boxes so that when the soil is pressed moderately firm the surface will be slightly below the edges of the boxes. Scatter the seed on the surface fairly thick and even, press it in slightly with the bottom of a clean pot or pan, give a watering with a fine-rosed can and stand in a warm, semi-dark place until germination is effected. Never cover the seeds with soil and do not use the same soil for more than one crop. Mustard and Cress are usually wanted together, therefore the former should be sown three days later than the Cress, as it grows faster and consequently becomes ready for cutting more quickly. After germination stand the boxes in full light and avoid watering over- head. If water is required it is much better to just dip the boxes in tepid water and allow the latter to permeate the soil from below upwards. This system of watering avoids damping off, a fungoid attack that is exceedingly prevalent among seedlings of all sorts during the winter. When ready for cutting insert the teeth of a coarse comb between the tiny stems and cut above this. Grit will thus be avoided and the Mustard or Cress can be transferred in an upright and attractive position to the dish. Chicory or Witloof is the other salad that is easily yet seldom grown in this country. Seeds are sown in drills 1 foot apart in April in any good garden soil and the resultant seedlings are thinned to 9 inches apart in the rows. Summer treatment consists in keeping the hoe going frequently between the rows and seeing that the plants do not suffer for lack of water, this seldom happening except in very light soils, owing to the plant's deep-rooting proclivity. In late autumn some growers lift the large Parsnip-like roots and store them in soil in an outhouse or other position where they are easily accessible during the winter months, but the only advantage in this system lies in the fact that the roots can be readily got at during severe frosts. If some protection can be given to the bed wherein they are growing, so that the ground does not become frozen so hard as to make lifting them difficult, they may well remain in their summer quarters until required for forcing. One of the easiest and simplest methods of forcing is to procure a deep box— a Tate sugar box answers well — make a few holes in the bottom, and cover them with good-sized crocks, and then put in about 3 inches of soil. This may well be the ordinary garden soil, providing it is not too wet nor of a heavy, close nature, or old soil from the potting bench, or even leaf-mould answers admirably, a rooting medium irrespective of nourishment being all that is required. Place the roots in this layer of soil crowns upwards about 6 inches to 9 inches apart all over the box, and fill in with soil made moderately firm to within 1 inch of the crowns. Give a good water- ing with a coarse-rosed can, leave a few hours for superfluous moisture to dissipate, and then January 4, 1908.] THE GARDEN. 11 cover over with a clean mat or cloth of sufficient thickness to absolutely exclude light. The box or boxes may then be stood under the stages, or anywhere out of the way in a warm house, taking care, however, to see that water does not drip among the plants when growth is taking place. With a temperature of 50° the crop of white crisp leaves will be ready for cutting in about four weeks, less time being required for producing a crop the nearer we get to spring. A succession is easily kept up by tilling a fresh box every nine days. A second crop of leaves is sometimes secured from the same roots after the first batch has been gathered, but unless the supply of roots is short this course is not advisable. It is also unwise to use the same soil for more than one batch of roots. Plants for forcing can occasion- ally be obtained from local nurserymen. RIVIERA NOTES. Rosa sinica Anemone is flowering in this month of December as freely and finely as if it were spring. When young it hardly ever showed a winter bloom, but each year it has proved a better autumnal till this year, when it has far exceeded its previous performances. It is flower- ing almost entirely on the older side shoots, while the long new summer growths are reserving themselves for the true spring. It seems probable this season that there will be no cessation of bloom all winter. Rose Noilla Ndbonnand is another winter- blooming Rose of great beauty and freedom in sunny situations, but it requires plenty of space for its vigorous shoots, and summer-heat and drought to ripen them. Its rich velvety crimson petals and its remarkably powerful scent make it quite indispensable on a pergola near the house, where its colour can be seen and its fragrance felt. As a cut flower it is not so satisfactory. Ntrine ilansdli has, I fancy, been raised in Japan as well as in England, for I got from Japan under the name of Nerine tardijiora a late flowering sort, which on blooming proved undis- tinguishable from N. Manselli, although slightly more vigorous in every respect. This has proved most useful as a hardy garden plant whether in pots or in the open ground, multiplying and flowering in Decern ber each year most abundantly. A plant that seems as if it would take care of itself, and when in quantity would be admirable as a cut flower. Acacia podalyriwjolia. — _This pretty winter- blooming shrub or small tree, which has been adopted as the badge of Queensland, opened its first flufi}' lemon 3'ellow balls very early in December, and promises to continue a long time in flower. When better known it must prove a great favourite, as even on this coast a shrub or tree that is in fullest flower in December and January, and is, moreover, frost-proof to an unusual degree, is something that approaches to the impossible. Like its near relative A. cultri- formis, it is a lime hater, and likes a dry soil ; but grafted on the ubiquitous A. floribunda it will grow on all soils on this coast. Its very glaucous or silvery foliage and the abundant clusters of flower are quite fairy like on a young plant. I wonder if it will prove useful as a cut flower, as A. cultriformis droops atjd dies when out under any conditions. Should it prove fairly lasting in water, it will entirely displace any other winter- flowering Acacia and prove a plant for every garden. Bignonia venusta is already in great beauty before the first breath of winter is felt. It is not seen or grown as much as it deserves, perhajjs on account of its thin and straggling growths, but when allowed to run wild and clamber through Bougainvillea or any other vigorous and leafy climber it is a beautiful thing, and one, moreover, that stands 5* of frost without harm on a dry south wall. Thunheniia lauri folia. — To my surprise this tender climber has survived the frosts of the last two severe winters, though cut down to the ground each year. This seems to be the best way to grow it, for certainly the finest plant I know was apparently lifeless till last April, and now it covers a very large space on a south wall and is smothered with its lovely lavender flowers and handsome foliage, which would soon suffer if cold came. But if it can be cut down and cleared away at once without suffering when unsightly, it is a plant that should not be left out by those who come out before Christmas and enjoy their early winter flowers. An old and nearly-forgotten shrub of muoh beauty just now is the Cape Ever- green, Eriocephalus capensis. — Its abundant heads of white Daisy - like flowers, with dark purple centres, are most attractive at this Christmas season, and later on, when the white petals die, the purple centres fluff themselves out into white W00II3' balls, which at a distance give the effect of flowers for several months. Like many Cape plants and shrubs, it needs a dry and sunny bank, otherwise it does not flower freely, and soon perishes from a frost when well wetted. Never- theless, no garden in these parts should be without it. Clematis lialearira is another pretty December flowering plant of great charm and freedom. As it is very hardy it may be placed in a cool and shady position where it can climb either among other shrubs or up a pole, where its pretty creamy white bells and finely-cut foliage will show to great advantage during the months of December and January. Like the Eriocephalus, its seed-plumes are silvery and persistent, so that it keeps ornamental till quite late in the spring. Nice. Edward H. Woodall. TREES AND SHRUBS. DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS WITH WINTER BEAUTY. A LTHOUGH during the winter months the /% majority of our deciduous trees and / % shrubs present their worst appear- / % ance, the leafless period has certain £ J^ redeeming features. In the ease of large trees, for instance, the outline of trunk and branches is hidden throughout summer by the leaf canopy ; but during winter it is fully apparent, and is often very striking. Then in the case of trees that shed their bark, such as the Planes, the peculiar patchy appear- ance of old and young bark is seen to advantage during the leafless period. The best winter effect is, however, produced by those trees and shrubs that have bright- coloured bark, and many of these are so beautiful that they are planted extensively solely for their winter appearance. With no great effort of memory we can recall very effective features on bright wintry days produced by the reflection of red and yellow-stemmed Willows in the water of lake or stream, or, again, by the silver trunks of the Birches standing out among the dark browns of Oak and Elm. In addition to these there are, however, a large number of other plants equally effective. In the case of many plants the colour is most brilliant on the past season's wood, and when they are grown specially for their winter beauty this fact is taken into account. With sucla things as Cornuses and Willows the method of culture adopted to obtain the most satisfactory results is to plant them in masses in rich ground, and cut them down to the surface of the soil annually just as the young shoots begin to push in spring. This ensures a constant supply of strong young shoots without the darker and heavier effect of old branches. The colours most prominent during winter-time are red, yellow, green, brown and white. The best reds are furnished by the Dogwoods (Cornus), Berberis and Willows (Salix). Of the Cornus C. alba and its varieties Baileyi and stolonifera are the best. As the types of these are not of any decorative value during summer, people who wish for shrubs with both winterand summer beauty should select the gold and silver variegated varieties of C. alba. The best of these are Spa?thii, with golden variegated leaves ; and elegans, with silver marked foliage. Berberis virescens is an effec- tive shrub, the young wood being of a pretty red hue ; it does well as a large bush without an annual cutting back. The red-stemmed variety of Salix alba vitellina is an excellent shrub for marshy ground, its branches being very bright. Among the Roses several sorts are notorious for their bright stems, two very conspicuous ones being Rosa alpina and Rosa serioea pteracantha ; the latter is of recent introduction, and is chiefly con- spicuous by reason of its enlarged bright red spines. Yellow-stemmed Shrubs are furnished by Salix alba vitellina forms, varieties of S. fragilis and a yellow-barked variety of Cornus stolonifera. Green stems are prominent in the Cytisus and Genista families, Kerria japoniea and the Ephedras being also noticeable. Perhaps the best of the bright green-barked shrubs is Leycesteria formosa ; this forms an excellent shrub for cutting back. Among the browns are several shrubs that are also very prominent as flowering plants. One of the very best is Lemoine's Philadelphus. This grows 2 feet to 3 feet high, and if cut back as soon as the flowers are over, strong young shoots are formed, which are effective for many months. Other Mock Oranges are also effective ; in fact, all the species have bright-coloured bark. In addition to these, brown bark of various shades is produced by the various Deutzias, Forsythia suspensa, some of the Ribes, Spiraeas, Rubus spectabilis, &c. White-stemmed Shrubs are fewer in number, and the Brambles (Rubus) are possibly the most prominent. Such as R. occidentalis and R. leucoderrais are effective, but they have to give place to R. lasiostylus and R. biflorus. Both these have quaint white stems, which have the appearance of ha\'ing been whitewashed ; in fact, the latter is known under the common name of White- washed Stemmed Bramble. Both of these should have the old stems removed as soon as new ones begin to grow, and it is essential that they should be given rich soil to secure robust growth. Glancing at trees we find, in addition to the common Silver Birch, several others with silver trunks, notably Betula ulmifolia and B. Erraanni, B. papyritera (the Paper Birch) is also a remark- able tree by reason of its reddish brown bark, which is constantly peeling oft'. Several of the Maples are remarkable, as their trunks are prettily striated with white. Two notable ones are Acer Veitohii and A. Pennsylvanica. A beautiful variety of the latter has recently been introduced under the name of erythrocladum ; its special feature is its brilliant scarlet bark. The golden-barked Ash is an effective tree when denuded of leaves, all the young wood being of a golden colour. It may be had in two forms, one of upright growth and the other of weeping habit. Another beautiful effect is noticeable in winter by the Bright Fruits of some deciduous trees, which are retained for a considerable period well into the new year. The Siberian Crab is very noticeable, as also is the Washington Thorn. Other Thorns, such as Cratfegus cordata, C. mollis, C. Carrieri, C. Douglasii and C. Crus-galli prunifolia retain their fruit for a long time. Some sorts of Roses hold their fruits very late, as also do several Coton- easters. As most of these fruits are bright red, scarlet or yellow they are very beautiful on bright days. A few deciduous shrubs open their blossoms during January, the various Witch Hazels (Hamamelis) for example, the Mezereum (Daphne Mezereum grandiflorum), winter-flower- ing Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima), 12 THE GARDEN [January 4, 1908. winter-flowering Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) and the Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus fragrans) being the best. With these subjects at hand it is not difficult to imagine that a garden may be made bright and cheerful with deciduous shrubs, even during the winter months. W. DAiLiMORE. THE SHRUBBERY. It will improve the general appearance of the garden if all dead leaves are removed from under trees and shrubs and the surface of the soil left clean. Keeently-planted trees should be examined and where neeessaiy new supports given them. In digging among the shrubs care should be taken to avoid damaging the roots. All dead branches should be cut from trees and shrubs, and if the growth is too crowded, remove with a sharp kaiie some of the branches. Established shrubberies which have become so crowded that no room is left for further develop- ment should be carefully gone through and the worst or least interesting plants entirely removed. This will allow space for the remainder to grow into handsome specimens, whereas if all are left the result in a few years will be an uninteresting wilderness. Choice varieties of trees planted during the autumn should be given a mulching of strawy manure. This will protect the soil about the roots during severe weather, and by maintaining an even temperature of the soil new root-action is promoted. If in an exposed posi- tion, or the appearance of the manure is an objection, cover this with a layer of soil. As a pillar plant the yellow winter-flowering Jasmine is very striking when judiciously planted in the shrubbery, particularly when viewed from a distance." Tender subjects should be aff'orded protection when severe frost threatens. A neat protection for medium-sized shrubs may be arranged by enclosing them with wire netting. Place a layer of leaves around the roots and finally thread branches of some evergreen through the meshes of the wire. C. Ruse. ORCHIDS. ONE OF THE MOST EASILY GROWN ORCHIDS. (CyI'KII'EDIUM IXSIGSE AND ITS VARIETIES.) DURING the last ten years the varieties , of Cypripedium insigne have been I greatly improved, and tliey have J become very popular winter-flower- ing plants. They have much to recommend them, as they are easily cultivated and the flowers last for nearly three months in perfection during the dullest period of the year, and they stand well the injurious effects of fogs. The varieties aie very numerous, and many of the finest forms have been raised by crossing two distinct varieties. There is plenty of scope to raise even better forms now that we have got such a noble variety as Harefield Hall to work upon. OlIJ.TrVATION. Cypripedium insigne will grow freely in an ordinarj' greenhouse where a temperature of 6'^" to tjO" is maintained. The plants require plenty of atmospheric moisture during tlie spring, summer and autumn months, and should never be allowed to remain (h-y at the root, but they should always approacli the stage of dryness before water is applied. Soft water about the same temperature as the hovise shcjuld always be used. From the end of Feliniary to October shade them from direct sunlight. Cinvas roller lilinds are most suitable for this purp(we, and they should be raised f> inches or 8 inch(!S abcjve the glass, so that a current of air will pass between. When the weatlier is dull these blinds should be raised, and during the winter months keep the roof-glass clean inside and out- side, so that the plants may get all the light procurable. On bright, warm days syringe them overhead, but this should not be done during the autumn and winter months. Potting the Plants. The best time to repot them is about the end of February, but this need only be performed every second year if good fibrous compost is used. Clean pots of a suitable size should always be selected, and crocked to about one-third their depth with clean crocks. Before placing the plant in its new pot, pick away all the decayed compost and cut ofl' any dead roots that may be present. Soil. The most suitable compost or soil for the purpose is two-parts gootl fibrous loam, one-part fibrous peat and one-part chopped sphagnum moss. Mix the whole well together and add a quantity of finely-broken crocks and a liberal sprinkling of coarse silver sand. Spread the roots out in the new pot, and press the compost moderately firm between and about them to the level of the base of the plant, which should be kept a little below the rim of the pot. Great care must be taken with the watering of the newly-potted plants. Until they become estab- lished they should be allowed to get moderately dry between each watering. Syringing between the pots should be done morning and afternoon, and damp the floors and stages as often as may be necessary to keep the atmosphere well charged with moisture. Propagation. The usual way to propagate is by division of growths, and this should be done when they are turned out of the pots. Old flowered back growths will readily break if cut away from the plants with some roots and potted up separately. Many of the choice varieties, such as the beauti- ful yellow C. insigne Sanderfe, have been raised from seed. The seed takes about a year to ripen, and then it should be sown on the surface of newly-potted plants. It is a good plan to sow the contents of one capsule over the surface of several old plants, because the conditions on one pot are not always suitable for the seed to germinate, whereas in most cases the seed will germinate on one or more pots. These seedlings should be pricked oft' as soon as the second leaf is about a quarter of an inch long, and three or four should be made secure in small seedling pots in finely-chopped soil of equal parts fibrous loam, peat and sphagnum moss, with coarse silver sand added to keep it porous. These seedlings should be grown on in a temperature of 6.5° if possible, and, as soon as the plants are strong enough, they should be potted singly in small pots. Never allow them to get dry, but, on the other hand, if they are always kept saturated the}' will make very slow progress. It is quite easy to keep them moist by allowing them to become moderately dry before applying water. Insect Pests. The worst insect pests to Cypripediums are thrips and red spider ; the former will soon spoil a batch of seedlings and check the old plants if they are not destroyed. This is easily done by fumigating about every second or third week with XL All or other good compounds. The plants should also be sponged occasionally with weak insecticide, in order to make them look presentable, Varieties of C. iNsiii*iE. Some of the finest spotted varieties are Hare- field Hall, montanum magnificum, holfordianum, berryanum, .lames Renwiok, Aberdeen, K. Ash- worth, Amy Mocjre, montanum aureum, Al, majestica, Victor, and Monks Hood. The yellow varieties consist of Sandene, sanderianum, Dorothy, Laura Kimball, oobbiana, Amesiie, Johnsonff, Chantini Lindeni, Ernesti, Ballia; and youngianum superbum. The majority of the above may be obtained from most of the Orchid nurserymen and are well worth cultivating. W. H. Page. Chardwar, Boiirton-on-the- Water. [Visitors to the December meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society will not easily forget the magnificent group of Cypripediums and other Orchids which came from Chardwar. No finer group has ever been seen before in winter. — Ed. ] TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— TA^ Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object vnXl make a special feature of the ^'^ Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions should be clearly and coTicisely loritten on 07ie side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, SO, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The noTne and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be %tsed in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate- piece of paper. FLOWER GARDEN. Carnation leaves dlseased( inches in thick- ness, covered with mats until sprouting is seen, then to lift each one singly and get them into small pots. Infopmation about a virapm fepnepy (J.H.). In determining the proper temperature for a greenhouse fernery much depends on whether the Ferns are tender kinds or whether they be of greenhouse or comparatively hardy nature. For quite tender Ferns the temperature should range from 60" to 70". For greenhouse Forns, such as most of the Adiantums, Pteris and similar forms, a temperature ranging from 50" to CO" in the winter does very well, but, necessarily, would be higher in the winter. Why your potted Ferns in the greenhouse fernery do so indifferently it is not easy to say, because nothing is said as to kinds or conditions. Most likely the soil in which th yare potted is not suitable, and may be deficient of peat which is an essential element. The atmosphere may be kept to» dry, or your water contain too much lime or iron, hence be unsuitable for the Ferns. If your gardener is as you say a good man, he should certainly be able to give some reason why the Ferns do lo badly. Have the hot-water pipes been coated with some offensive compound- Dpylng off Haemanthus albiflos (Doubtful). It is not necessary to dry off Hremanthus albiflos so thoroughly as to cause the roots to perish; still, during its resting period the soil should be kept almost dry. Haemanthus albiflos as a rule flowers during the autumn, and after that makes its growth. Such being the case it needs, throughout the winter, to be given a good light position in the warmest part of the greenhouse, or even in a structure kept at an intermediate temperature. It will at that time need to be watered whenever the soil is dry. If such treatmentis continued till spring is well advanced, or even till the summer, the plant should have made good growth, and will probably show signs of going to rest. During the summer a sunny spot in a garden frame and a very limited amount of water will suit it well By the end of August or thereabouts signs of growth should be seen, when more water may be given and the plant or plants removed into the greenhouse. The flower-spike will then very probably soon make its appearance. ROSE GARDEN. Soot as a preventive of mUdew on Roses (E. M. D.). — The soot should be mainly applied to the ground round about the plants, but it would be advisable to give the branches a good dusting also. At those seasons of the year, namely, November and March, there would be no tender foliage to injure, so that it may be applied without any fear of injury. We have syringed indoor Roses with a weak solution of soot water with very beneficial results. Some years ago we had u large quantity of budded stocks dressed with soot in May, and there was no sign of mildew that year. We were careful only to apply it to the land, as at that time the young foliage was in a very tender condition. IJesidos acting as a preventive of mildew, soot itself is a general fertiliser, and may be applied with much benefit to the plants. Soot as a ppeventlve of mllde^v ( ir. R. M.). Sprinkle the sortt on the surface of the soil round each Rose tree, not too much, just a light dusting, say on November 1 and again on March 1. Be sure and use old soot. FRUIT GARDEN. Trees cankered (//. .s.).— No doubt this is due to your cold soil. Under the circum- stances we are afraid that a complete cure is hopeless. We have known trees badly cankered to go on bearing well for many years by going over them carefully every year and cutting the cankered part out. We have seldom known any of the varietj' you mention to canker, and we hope they will remain free from it. To kill all kinds of fungoid or other parasitic growth on fruit trees, spray in winter with the caustic alkali wash. Protection oi bush fruit trees ( Rnhrum). — To be effective the mesh must not be larger than 1 inch and the size or gauge most convenient to handle in forming the enclosure is that of 3 feet wide. We have seen many failures in the growth of bush fruit trees inside such enclosures, the failure being attributed to the absence of birds in spring and summer in ridding the trees of aphis and other destructive tree pests. We would suggest that the sides only be formed of galvanised netting, and that for covering the roof herring netting be substituted. This could be applied in winter as a protection from bullfinches and taken off in spring and summer until wanted again for protecting the ripening and ripe fruit. Fungus on fruit trees (H. s.).— For the destruction of fungus or other growth on the stems and branches of fruit trees, we know of nothing more effective than spraying the trees in winter with caustic alkali wash, the composition of which is as follows: lib. of commercial caustic soda and lib. of crude potash. Dissolve both in \\ ater, afterwards mixing the two well together, then add three-quarters of a pound of common agri- cultural treacle, stir well and add as much rain water as will make up 10 gallons. The wash has a burning effect on hands and clothes, and care must therefore be exercised when spraying the trees at the end of January or the beginning of February. This wash will also rid the trees of all blight it may come in contact with. Fruit room not satisfactory (Buckshaw). — From the particulars given we can find no fault with the construction of the fruit room, e.xcepting that the tiled roof is a mistake. There is nothing so damaging to the preservation of fruit as the frequent alternating of tempera- tures, which the tiled roof favours. Therefore we would advise the roof to be thatched outside and the sides and ends also with straw or long Heather 10 inches thick. The temperature will then be uniform and slightly warmer, which will suit the Pears better, and evaporation will also be stopped, which is important, as it tends to destroy the juices of the fruit. The room will then require no artificial heating even in the coldest weather. Thatched portable shutters should also be made to fit the skylight and windows for protection in very cold weather. Apples for coolcingr (H. B.).—\. The (Grenadier. — One of the very best of the Codlins ; ripe in September. 2. Lord (Trosvenor. — Excel- lent for early use and very hardy ; ripe in August. ■3. Lord Derby. — Fine cooking sort, heavy cropper, and especially suitable for growing in cold districts. 4. Royal Late Cooking. — The tree is very hardy and free bearing, the fruit large and handsome ; ripe in February. 5. A well-known free-fruiting and reliable late cooking sort. (5. Newton Wonder. — This is probably the finest late cooking Apple of the present day. It is a cross between Wellington and Blenheim Orange, and partakes of the good qualities of both. The tree is robust, hardy and prolific, the fruit large, of brilliant colouring, and will keep in good condition until May. It is profitable to grow for market. #3tey^ GARDEN. **^ No. 1887.— Vol. LXXII. .January 18, 1908. CONTENTS. Sweet Peas in Pots .. 2."; Fruit Garden The old Green Gage A garden of sweet- scented flowers . . . . 2o Strawberry forcing . . 30 NoTEa OP THE Week Coloured Plate East AngUan Horti- cultural Club . . . . •it) William Marshall.. 30 Adelaide Botanic Gar- dens Flower Garden Hutchinsia alpina 31 COBRESPONDENCE A fine Yucca . . . . 31 The unheated green- Hardy Fuchsias . . . . 31 house . . Gardenino for Beginners How to treat frozen plants 27 Garden work week by week Two good Ferns for 32 Greenhocse rooms 32 Tuberous Begonias Winter-flowering Car- from seed 27 nations 32 Rose Garden Grey mould on Kose tree stems ?s Seasonable hints on the care of room plants 33 Gardening of the Week Christmas Day •'S For the South and Climbing Roses under South Midlands . . 34 glass •>s For the North and North Midlands . . 34 Hardy Lady's Slippers . Editor's Table 34 The finest group of Chrysanthemums i n Answers to Corre- spondents Scotland last year 29 Flower garden . . . . 35 Fruit Garden Greenhouse 36 Pears and Apples for Rose garden . . . 36 the New Year.. .. 29 Fruit garden . . . . 36 Well-grown Vines . . 30 .Miscellaneous .. .. 36 ILLUSTRATIONS. A beautiful double white tuberous Begonia 27 A Rose stem badly affected by grey mould 28 A bowl of Roses gathered on Christmas Day . . . . 2S The finest group of Chrysanthemums in Scotland . . 29 Well-grown Vines at Stanley House 30 Tuberous Begonia William Marshall . .. Coloured plate Yucca gloriosa in flower 31 One of the Cress family (Hutchinsia alpina) 31 A good specimen of Maidenhair Fern 32 The Australian Bracken 32 Winter-flowering Carnations 33 EDITORIAL. NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is represented in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to ■matters upon which they toinh adirice from competent axithorities. tVith that object he loishes to make the ** Ansicers to Correspondents" column a conspicuous feature, aiwi, when queries are printed, he hopes readers unll kindly give enquirers the betiejit o) their assistance. All communications must be vrritten clearly on one side only of the paper, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, accompanied by na^ne and address oj the sender. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles, and notes, b^ui he 2vill not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps a,r- enclosed, he ivUl endeavour to return ium-accepted co}itributions. The Editor icitl not be responsible for the return of artistic . Mezereum. Then we must have a generous planting of the Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum), associating them for choice with pink China Roses. Liliums croceum, umbellatum, testaeeum, elegans and the hardier speoiosums are all fairly easy to grow, and will add con- siderably to the beauty as well as to the fragrance of our garden. For an edging to the border nothing can be better than white Pinks, such as Mrs. Sinkins. Sturdy plants put in about 9 inches apart will develop into a continuous border, producing masses of flowers. They will only need dividing and replanting every third year, and are very fond of a little road grit mixed with the soil. Hemerocallis flava, the sweet-scented Day Lily, is one of the easiest of all plants to grow. Carnations, too, we cannot do without, especially the old-fashioned Cloves, and for a border such as I am describing I would recom- mend groups of seedling plants instead of named varieties. Seedling plants are cheap, flower so abudantly and we can easily retain, by layering, any we specially like. We must have some Bergamot, a very easily-grown scarlet perennial, and Lavender, Rosemary and Southernwood must find a place in our garden. We must find room somewhere tor a plant or two of white Jasmine. If there is any shady corner, mix some leaf-mould with the soil and plant some Lilies of the Valley, and, except for replanting every four years, an annual mulching of decayed manure will be all they require. For bold groups clumps of Sweet Peas should be arranged in early March, each clump con- taining about a dozen seeds 3 inches apart, and each clump of one colour and variety. If we have room, a few herbaceous Pitonies may be added, some of which are very fragrant, though the flowers are not very lasting. Pillars or large bushes of Roses Gustave Regis and Griiss an Teplitz will be an acquisition, grouping round them some dwarf Moss Roses. The Tree Poppy (Ronmeya Coulteri) and the yellow Tree Lupin might be tried if our garden is exceptionally warm and the soil light and well drained. The old-fashioned Sweet Rocket, both double and single, should be planted, also Sweet Sultans, and we have a large choice of varieties among the Evening Primroses. The white Musk Mallow, too, will grow almost everywhere, and Violets may be planted under the hedge, as they succeed best in shady places. The spaces between the perennial plants may be filled, when all danger of frost is past, by Verbenas, Stocks, Oak-leaf Geraniums and Heliotropes, and we must have a plentiful supply of Mignonette. l>j not forget the white Tobacco Plants. These, especially if planted in good soil and given plenty of room, will fill the whole garden in the evening with their fragrance, and wherever there is room put in a few seeds of the Night- scented Stock (Matthiola bicomis). This shuts up during the day and looks altogether insignifi- cant, but as the evening comes on the little mauve flowers open and the whole air is laden with perfume. There is a certain limitation in a garden of sweet-scented flowers, but it is far better to grow a few varieties and grow them well than any amount of flowers that do not realise their full beauty. But, in conclusion, such a garden by reason of its very limitation can be made more interesting, and certainly more delightful, llian the usual mixed one, far too often planted without regard to either the general eSect or the beauty of the individual flowers. A. W. Podger. 1, Fori Ml Viei" Aviime, Whippn Cross, Leylon NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 18. — French Horticultural Society's Annual Dinner, Mr. H. J. Veitch in the chair. January '21. — National Amateur Gardeners' Association. January 23 — Gardeners' Royal Benevolent In- stitution Annual Meeting and Supper, Simpson's, Strand, 2.45 p.m. and 6 p.m. The Gapdeneps' Royal Benevo- lent Institution. — The annual general meeting of members of the above society for the election of pensioners will be held at Simpson's, 101, Strand, London, W.C, on Thursday, the 23rd inst. At 6 p.m., at the same place, the annual friendly supper of friends of this institu- tion will be held, under the presidency of Mr. Martin H. F. Sutton. Full particulars can be obtained from the secretary, Mr. George J. Ingram, 175, Victoria Street, London, S.W. East Anglian Hopticultupal Club. The annual report of this up-to-date provincial horticultural club for 1907 and the schedule for 1008 is now being issued to members, and provides interesting reading for those who are interested in the various branches of horticulture. The net increase in the membership lor 1907 is three, forty-four new members having been enrolled and forty-one lapsed. The finances are in a sound and satisfactory condition, although there is a small deficit on the year's working, due to rather heavy demands on the benevolent fund. The exhibitions have been of a very high and satis- factory character, although the entries in the flower and vegetable sections have been rather less than those of 1906, but the fruit entries show an increase of tw enty-seven. The exhibitions in connexion with the special classes have been par- ticularly good, much interest being taken in all the classes. The non-competitive exhibits and the essay competitions have all been of a very satisfactorj' order, while the high standard of the addresses and non-competitive papers has been well maintained. The annual outing was, by the kind invitation of the late Lord Battersea, to The Pleasaimce, Overstrand. Particulars of the interesting competitions to be held during 1908 are given. The secretary is Mr. W. L. Wallis, 12, Royal Arcade, Norwich. Adelaide Botanic Gapdens. — An interesting oflicial souvenir of the Jubilee celebrations of the Adelaide Botanic Gardens, held on October 19 last, has been published by the Board of Governors of the gardens, and we have derived much pleasure from a perusal of its pages. The main features of the gardens are admirably portrayed by pen and camera, these being followed by a historical sketch. It was on October 18, IS.'ii, that the Government voted the sum of £3,000 for the year ISS.'J as a first instal- ment for the creation of the Botanic Gardens. On March 8, 1855, Mr. George Francis was appointed secretary pro trm., and on .Tune 8 in the same year he was appointed superintendent. On October 2(5, 18fi0, it was decided that Mr. i Francis's title of office be altered to director and i secretary. On August 9, 1S()5, Mr. Francis, the | first director, died, and on September 14 following Dr. Schomburgk assumed office in his stead, a post that he held until his death, which occurred on March 25, 1891. An interesting account is given of the first Victoria Regia grown in Australia. This was planted in the gardens on July 22, 1867. In the course of six months it produced no less than fifty-four leaves, the largest of which was 6 feet 4 inches in diameter, and forty-one flowers, averaging nearly 13 inches in diameter, were also produced. Diu-ine 1871 much damage was done to plants belonging to cool countries by the hot winds that prevailed, the thermometer rising to 115° in the shade. Dr. M. W. Holtze, Ph.D., F.L.S., the present director, was appointed in 1891. The Jubilee celebrations were held in the gardens by moon- light, the conservatories and plant houses being illuminated for the purpose. Resignation of Mp. P. Muppay Thomson.— Deep regret will be felt by all in any way connected with the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society or its shows at the resigna- tion of Mr. P. Murray Thomson, S.S.C, who has for a number of years been the secretary and treasurer. Mr. Murray Thomson has received an important estate appointment in England, which is the cause of his resignation. While his improved position is cause for con- gratulation to Mr. Thomson, it is a source of regret to the many who have come in contact with him in his duties in connexion with the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society. He is ever courteous and obliging, and many have reason to remember his willingness to give any information and assistance in his power. A testimonial to Mr. Thomson is being promoted, and subscriptions are being received by Mr. J. W. M'Hattie, secretary and treasurer to the com- mittee, at his office, City Chambers, Edinburgh. Wlndsop, Eton and Distpict Rose and Hopticultupal Society.— At a com- mittee meeting held on the 11th inst. the date of the annual exhibition was fixed for June 27. The- report for the past year was considered satisfac- tory, the number of subscribers having increased, while the number of exhibitors' entries was greatly in excess of all previous years. The hon. secretary (Mr. C. H. Burt, 3, Clarence Gardens, Windsor) announced with much satisfaction that two additional silver challenge cups would be offered for competition in the coming schedule, one given by Mrs. Fortescue, Dropraore, the other to be known as " The Islet Challenge Cup." An important alteration was made at the general meeting, when Mr. Romaine proposed that, con- sidering the progress the society had continuously made, the time had arrived when its radius might advantajgeouslybeextended and Rule 7 be amended so that in future it should be: "That the district comprises the County of Berks and all within a radius of ten miles from Windsor.'' CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinimis expressed by correspoiidents. ) Floweps from the open on ChPiStmaa Day. — One sometimes reads ir> The Garden of flowers out of season being used for indoor decoration. I think it may be interesting to note that on both Christmis and New Year's Day our breakfast table was liberally decked with Primroses, Wallflower Cloth of Gold and Violet Marie Louise, all from the open garden.— G. Johnson, Bishop's Wnltliam. Hants. The unheated grpeenhouse. — In reading an article on the relative hardiness of certain plants, the locality in which the writer is situated must be taken into marked considera- tion, as this is always of great importance. An illustration of it occurs in the essay on " The Small Unheated Greenhouse," in The Garden of the 21st ult. The writer, situated on the South Coa.st of England, gives a list of difierent flowering subjects that may be had during the winter in such a structure, yet I venture to say that over three parts of this country any attempt to reproduce this winter display would end in absolute failure. The average individual situated in Lancashire or Yorkshire, or even in the London district, would look upon it as a joke to read of Cinerarias, Acacias, Genistas, Indian Azaleas, Chinese Primulas, Cyclamen, &c. , flowering during the winter in a greenhouse without any artificial heat. The fact that many plants will thrive out of doors in Cornwall, Devon and Dorsetshire that need greenhouse protection elsewhere, will, to a great extent, explain the apparent discrepancy. For a cold January 18, 1908.] THE GAEDEN. 27 greenhouse the plants require to be hardy, as they may be often frozen. Even then there is a considerable choice of subjects, including Hyacinths, Croci, Tulips, Muscari, Narcissi, Lily of the Valley, Liliums of sorts, Spir,T?as, Wallflowers, Clematis, Roses, Dielytra spectabilis, several Saxifrages, Christmas Roses, hardy Cycla- men, early-flowering bulbous Iris and many other hardy plants that are benefited by a certain amount of protection. The smaller hardy shrubs, too, such as Deutzias, Azalea mollis, Staphylea colchica, Lilacs, Andromeda floribunda and Rhododendrons are also well suited for such a purpose. — H. P. "New" Apples.— In The Garden for December 14 last a selection of new Apples for amateurs was given, in which occurs a rather amusing but yet perhaps natural mistake ; still, a mistake which should not have been made. THE GREENHOUSE. TUBEEOUS BEGONIAS FROM SEED. ARIETIE8 of tuberous Begonias are now so well established in popular favour as bedding and greenhouse subjects that a few hints as to the means of obtaining a good stock of vigorous plants at a quite nominal cost may not, at this season, be out of place. The plan usually adopted for increasing the plants is either by taking cuttings during the season of active growth or by means of seeds. It is only with the latter method that it is now V proposed to deal, this being by far the most satisfactory way of raising a batch of sturdy That old Apple Ross Nonpareil is credited to ' vigorous plants which will give a gorgeous Mr. Charles Ross as one of that raiser's seedlings, i display of bloom for several years, whereas the Really it was put into commerce many years ago, and was raised in Ireland, having been sent to the Royal Horti- cultural Society by a Mr. Robertson of Kilkenny. The word " Ross " is doubtless intended to indicate the Apple's birthplace. In the list of Apples given as new is included St. Edmund's Russet. If by this title is meant St. Edmund's Pippin, and I know of no other variety bearing the saint's name, then it is rather old, as it received a first-class certificate so long since as 1875. This is a Russet fruit, but not a great cropper. The list does not^ include Charles Ross, Mr. Ross's best-known seedling variety, neither does it include Lord Hindlip, one of the very best of the late-keeping dessert Apples we have, yet new. — Pomona. How to treat frozen plants. — I quite agree with the writer of the article on this subject that appears on page 22 of The Garden, and would like to emphasise the remarks made there. With window and room plants it is a good plan to place as many as possible in a corner of the house on the floor and cover them with many sheets of paper and also some scrim or tiffany and leave them so covered until the frost has gone. If the foliage of such plants as Zonal Geraniums is dry the frost will not seriously damage them if they are not exposed to the sunshine while in a frozen condition. I find that many amateurs expose theii frozen plants to the sunshine with the idea of thawing them, but this is a grave mistake. It is the same with regard to vegetables in the open border. Those covered with snow while severe frosts are prevalent do not i plants procured from cuttings very soon begin to seriously suffer. Others that are exposed to I deteriorate. both frost and sunshine do suffer very much, so that the best thing to do is to put on Bracken or dry straw in the absence of snow. During a severe frost late in spring one year recently I had a frameful of Castor Oil plants (Ricinus Gibsoni) badly frozen. A young man in attending to his A BEAUTirtlL DOUBTiE WHITE TUBEROUS BEGONIA TROM SEED (second year). work uncovered and opened the frame, and so I found all the plants drooping down like mops. I immediately broke the ice in a cistern near by passed through a half-inch sieve. The loam used should not be of a too heavy or clayey nature. A flower-pot should next be scrubbed scrupu- lously clean, a crock with the concave side downwards placed over the drainage hole, and the pot then filled with broken crocks or coal cinders (not coke) to within about 3 inches of the top, the smaller pieces being placed on the surface. On this put some rough fibrous material or moss to prevent the soil washing down into the crocks and thus choking the drainage, and place on this a good inch of compost with the finer particles on top, making sure that the surface is carefully levelled. Next take some pure leaf -mould which has been well baked until quite dry to destroy insects and fungus spores, and pass it through a fine sieve — such as is used by cooks for straining gravy — or rub it up in the hands. The pot containing the soil should then be placed ina vesselof water, the levelof whiohshould reach to within half an inch of the top of the soil, and when the whole is thoroughly moistened it should be covered with a bare quarter of an inch of the prepared leaf-mould and then taken out to drain. In a short time the moisture will soak up into the dry top layer, when, making sure that the surface is quite level, the seed may be carefully and thinly scattered thereon. Begonia seed being exceedingly minute, it is as well to mix it with an equal bulk of fine silver sand, as it is other- wise somewhat difficult to scatter it at all evenly. It is not necessary to cover the seed, but the merest dusting of fine leaf-mould may be given. The pots should now be plunged in some moist Cocoanut fibre refuse, with, if possible, a bottom-heat of 70° to 80° Fahr. (10° lower will do, but germina- tion will then be slower) and covered with a pane of glass, over which a piece of brown paper has been placed. The glass must be removed for half- an-hour morning and evening, as if the soil be kept too close a minute fungus is apt to develop on its surface, which, if unchecked, will soon destroy seeds and seedlings. Probably after the first thorough soaking, if the sur- roundings be fairly moist, no further watering will be required until the seeds begin to germinate ; but either then or at any other time the best way to apply it is by placing the pot in a pan of lukewarm water reaching to within about half an inch of the surface of the soil. If it be roughly applied to the surface the seedlings will "lie down," and many never get up again. It should be borne in mind that the water used should never be cold, but as near as possible of the same temperature as the soil in which the plants are growing. Treatment of the Seedlings. As soon as possible the seedlings should be pricked out about 1 inch apart into pans or boxes, Sowing the Seed. The months usually chosen for seed-sowing are January and February ; later sowings may be made, but the resulting plants can hardly be expected to ^ flower the same year, and with generous treat- ' using a compost as described above, the best time ment plants raised from sowings made during , to do this being while the first pair of rough or these months will usually begin flowering in late true leaves are in process of formation, as the June and July, and make a fine display, either I tiny rootlets have then not had time to run far, out of doors or under glass during the rest of the and a severe check is thus avoided. The hand- and thoroughly syringed the frozen plants with i growing season. In order to meet with a fair I ling of these tiny seedlings requires some patience the icy water, then closed the frame and covered j measure of success the amateur must be able to ! and care, and this can best l)e done bj' cutting the glass with heavy mats. All remained in this , command a growing temperature of from 65" to ' a V-shaped notch in a thin, narrow strip of condition for three days, until the frost had quite 75° Fahr. , and if this is not available in the green- gone. When I examined the plants I found one house recourse must be had to one of the various leaf only with a brown patch on it, all the others were quite healthy, but if the plants had been left exposed to the air and sunshine while they were frozen all would have perished. These timely hints may prove of service to many jnexperienoed readers. — Avon. forms of propagator on the market. The seed being obtained, the next proceeding is to prepare wood, such as a plant label, using this to lift them with, while they are carefully levered out by means of a small-pointed stick, which mav also be used for making small holes in the eartn a soil suitable for its reception. This should ' to plant them in, carefully prodding the soil consist of well-decayed Oak leaf-mould three round them afterwards. When this operation parts, coarse sand halt a part, and good fibrous , is finished, the whole should be again stood in a loam two parts, the whole being well mixed and | vessel of water as described above until well 28 THE GAEDEN. [January 18, ly08. moistened, and then kept rather close for a week or so to enable the roots to get well hold of the new soil. As soon as the seedlings have four or five leaves apiece and are beginning to touch one another, they should be again transplanted, this time singly into '2i-inoh pots, using the same compost as before, but slightly coarser. What to Do with the Plants. As the plants increase in size, the next shift should be given, this time into -l-inch pots, the old drainage being carefully picked from among the roots which have run down into it, so as to damage them as little as possible. The plants may now be gradually hardened off, which, supposing the seed to have been sown in the latter part of January, should be about May, and about the middle of June those intended for bedding out may be placed in their permanent quarters, provided the weather is suitable. Those plants intended for growing on in the house should be shifted into 5-inch or 5|-inch pots as soon as the roots begin to work well round the sides of the smaller ones. Any additional food required may be supplied in the form of liquid manure as the plants come into bloom and the pots become crammed with roots. A suitable soil for the final potting consists of good mellow loam with plenty of fibre in it, two parts ; Oak leaf-mould, one part ; coarse potting sand, half a part, with a few nodules of charcoal to keep the soil more open and sweet, while a sprinkling of Clay's, Thomson's, or some other well-tried fertiliser may be added with advantage, the whole being thoroughly mixed several days before it is required for use. In conclusion, a word as to the selecting of seed. Always buy from good and reliable houses. It takes six months at least to produce a flowering plant from a seed, and it is just as easy to raise a plant fit for exhibition in the early stages as a worthless one, and the little extra one pays for reliable seed is money well spent. RoDiER Heath. Brutonia, Westham, Weymouth. ROSE GARDEN W GREY MOULD ON ROSE TREE STEMS. ITH the ordi- nary mildew found on the leaves of Roses most cultivators are familiar, and to the casual observer this does not greatly differ from that shown in the illustration ; but this latter is quite different in its effects and much more deadly, so that it behoves every Rose grower to keep a sharp look out for it. It generally attacks the older portions of the plants, such as the main stem or the larger branches, and by this trait is easily distinguished from the common Rose mildew, as that confines its attentions to the leaves and the young shoots. This grey mould, or Botrytis cinerea as the mycologist calls it, is generally associated with decay, being, apparently, power- less to harm a healthy, vigorous shoot. If a wound is made in the bark of a Rose or any other with this grand old Rose under glass by budding tree and nothing is done to exclude parasitic it upon a tree-flowering sort already established fungi, the grey mould will probably be one of the , in the structure, and, although some advocate first visitors. | severe pruning after flowering, we have had most In the illustration is shown the patch of grey I success when the Rose has been very sparingly mould magnified, and the wound round which it pruned. The tendency of the free-growing sorts is clustered may also be plainly seen. This is in | when grown under glass is to make wood so the main stem of the Rose, and its effect is to luxuriantly as to prevent them giving a continuous cut off all supplies of sap from the roots. The supply of bloom, but there are a few varieties best way to prevent this trouble is to avoid that would provide you with the summer shade making wounds on the stem, either with the , desired, from which you could expect more BOWO, OF ROSES GATHERED TROM THE OPEN ON CHRISTMAS DAY. it cannot be denied that the Rose is often so much overcropped that disease of some kind is sure to follow. We have been very successful secateurs at pruning time or with the garden fork at digging, mulching and other times. Should the fungus put in an appearance, its progress can generally be arrested by rubbing a mixture of two parts of flowers of sulphur and one part of unslaked lime into the aff'ected area ; but this should be done in the early stages of atftick to be effectual. ROSES GATHERED ON CHRISTMAS DAY. Roses, we know, will often keen flowering until the end of October, and a stray bloom or two may occasionally be gathered during the dull days of November, but it is not many of us that have the pleasure of gathering even a single bloom out of doors on Christmas Day. The charming bouquet illustrated was gathered from plants in the open on December 2.5 by Mrs. G. E. Scaramanga, Rushetts, Crawley Down, Sussex, to whom we are indebted for the photograph from which our illustration has been made. Doubtless the mild weather that has been until quite recently experienced in that locality was responsible for this pleasing departure from the normal. CLIMBING ROSES UNDER GLASS. [In reply to " R. G. fi."] YonR question is a very timely one, and we have pleasure in replying to it. Many Rose growers have discarded the old Mart'chal Niel as an indoor flowers than from Marechal Niel. The following, we think, would answer your purpose, and we have placed them in the order of merit : Mme. Hector Leuilliot, Bouquet d'Or, Billiard et Barr^, Mme. Jules Gravereaux,ClimbingBelle Siebreeht, M. Desir, Francjois Crousse, Mme. Moreau, Cre- pusoule, Mme. Boursin and W. A. Richardson. The best Roses to plant under glass to provide a long season of flowers are the Tea-scented and Hybrid Teas, groups of what are known as the non-climbing section. If one can exercise a little patience and wait a year or two, while the plants are developing, they would soon cover the roof of any ordinary greenhouse. We should recom- mend a trial of such Roses. If the house is a lean-to and there is staging in front, you could have a large pot or tub placed in one corner, into which an extra-sized pot plant could be planted. Such plants are usually from 2 feet to 3 feet in height from the top of the pot. Provide the pot or tub with plenty of drainage, and fill up with good loam (three parts) and well-decayed manure (one part) thoroughly mixed together. Two or three handfuls of bone-meal added would also prove helpful. Transfer the pot plant, and before planting just rub off the edges of the ball of earth and slightly prod the sides to release the little roots, when they will be the better able to lay hold of the new soil. Little or no pruning will be required the first year or two, for these plants are usually well ripened when received, and the growth under glass facilitates the ripen- ing each year. You could have several of such plants placed about 4 feet apart, removing every other one as space becomes filled out. We have seen plants of such a Rose as Mme. Lambard A B08B STEM BADLY AFFECTED BY ORBY MOULD (BOTRYTIS CINEREA). Rose, owing mainly to its tendency to canker, but also to its unfitness for providing a fairly continuous supply of flowers. Without a doubt » it is still the king of golden Roses, and when ] entirely covering the roof, and rarely was the grown upon a half-standard Briar and the entire owner without beautiful buds and blooms. It it structure devoted to the Rose nothing can equal I is "ot practicable to have the plants on a front it in beauty. We know of some old vineries where Marechal Niel on short standards have been planted to supersede the Vines, and these houses^ yield their owner a handsome profit. Although there is an inherent tendency to canker. staging, standard plants could be planted in a well-prepared border beneath ; but we would advise pot-grown specimens in preference to those from the open ground. A top-dressing about twice a year, using bone-meal liberally when the January 18, 1908.] THE GARDEN. 29 plants are established and watering freely during the growing period, will ensure a strong and vigorous growth quite sufficient for ordinary requirements. We are certain that if such Roses were planted they would give far more satisfac- tion than the orthodox climbers. A few varieties we can recommend are Mme. Abel Chatenay, Lady Roberts, Joseph Hill, Pharisaer, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Mme. Constant Soupert, Perle des Jardins, Mme. Hoste, Richmond, Lady Batter- sea, Sunset, Sunrise, Souvenir de Pierre Notting, Mme. Lambard, Liberty, Niphetos, Souvenir de S. A. Prince, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Mme. Ravary, Mrs. David McKee, Prince de Bulgarie, Mme. J. W. Budde, Marquise de Sinety and Gustave Grunerwald. HARDY LADY'S SLIPPERS. (Cypripediums. ) (Cmitimted from page It).) Cypripedium arietinum (the Ram's Head Lady's Slipper) is a dainty, slender plant, too delicate for general treatment out of doors, and better grown in a sheltered nook amid rare Ferns or in pans in a cool house. It generally grows in tufts a few inches high, bearing small flowers scarcely an inch across, with ruddy brown sepals and petals more or less freely marbled with yellowish green. The pouch is a dainty slipper-like process coloured white, closely veined pink and horizontally poised. It is too small to be considered showy and the colouring varies with dift'erent specimens. C. Oalceolus (the common Lady's Slipper) is a well-known plant, easily grown and at one time a native of our limestone pastures. Its root- growth is gnarled and distinct from the long, straight roots of the bog-loving types. The stems reach a height of 2 feet when fully estab- lished, and they bear on an average two fragrant flowers, the sepals and petals of which are brownish red, slightly twisted and often chequered with yellow. The yellow lip is in the form of a distended pouch less than 1 inch across. The whole flower spans 2 inches to 3 inches, and they last well in good condition if water is pre- vented—by a sheltering light — from entering the pouch. This is quite an easy plant to grow, and one should endeavour to re-establish this pretty species in damp pastures overlying chalk, either by roots or by seeds. C. californicum (the many-flowered Lady's Slipper) is a rare plant and one of the best of its group. The leaves are like those of C. Calceolus, and the stems support spikes of five to ten flowers, with yellow segments and a white pouch veined or sometimes flushed with rose. The plant is vigorous and showy, but very susceptible to decay at the collar in cold and wet winters. Collectors in its native country report it as a bog plant, but the soil exported with the plants is pure loam, and the probability is that a marshy place submerged in the growing season for a few inches is intended. Under cultivation it resents too much wet, preferring the drier loams in winter and to be well watered in its growing season. Its roots agree with the species from loamy soils, and they are quite different from the speetabile- pubescens group. C. candidum (the white Lady's Slipper) is a dainty species of slender tufted growth that one could associate with Sundews, Sarracenias, Pisas and kindred plants in cool structures. It appears far too delicate to grow in the open. The plant's long slender white roots indicate a root-run of sphagnum or mossy peat rather than soil, and it suffers from extremes of heat and cold. The stems are half a foot high, and they bear one to three flowers each, the segments of which are brown, shading paler near the bases. The slipper is pure white, and the whole flower averages less than 1 inch in diameter. C guttatum (the spotted Lady's Slipper) is a rarity from Siberia, white flowered, the lip being splashed with crimson. C. hutnik [See Fig., The Garden, Vol. LXIV., page 41]. — A plant gardeners will more readily recognise as C. acaule (the stemless Lady's Slipper), one of the curiosities of the vegetable world. It is a pretty, and in some respects showy, plant, very interesting in its singular formation, and it will be familiar to many who attend the Royal Horticultural Society's fort- nightly meetings. The roots are stout, fascicled, not fleshy, the stems, i.e., flower-stalks, are 9 inches high, bearing one (rarely two) flowers on each, 3 inches across the "wing" segments, which are lance-shaped, rigidly flat and the upper petal is hooded. The pouch is a loose bag-like process of rosy purple colouring, veined on the inside, quite 2 inches long and much con- tracted at the base. A slit from top to bottom of the lip reveals the coloured interior and the edges are turned back to render this colouring more attractive. As a garden plant C. humile finds its greatest use in damp rockeries associated with creeping Bellflowers (Campanulas) and Arenarias between stones. It grows well in the cool house treated like a Disa, and one can grow the plant well in pots in Belgian leaf-soil or in .Jadoo fibre. C. japonicum rarely finds its way to this country in good condition, and its flowers are THE FRUIT GARDEN, PEAKS AND APPLES FOR THE NEW YEAR. THERE are many new varieties of Apples and Pears in these days of novelties. Some are old but intro- duced with new names, others are the results of hybridising, the cross of which sometimes is not so good as existing varieties, and in the New Year some of the old Apples and Pears are very difficult to beat. I should like to know what is better than a good well-ripened Blenheim Orange or a Ribston or Cox's Orange. There is not a new Apple that can beat them, and if these fruits are well ripened, that is, allowed to hang on the tree till they part readily from the spur, their condition at Christmas is superb. Many of the new Apples are in season at the time of the autumn shows ; they get admired and are bought and planted largely, and in a year or two it is found that the old ones were really better than the new. Most of these inbred or crossbred sorts produce weak-growing trees, as the plants have been pushed rapidly to get a supply the finest group of chrysanthemums shown in SCOTLAND LAST YEAR. rarely seen. Newly-imported specimens may flower once, but rarely develop a second leafy growth. The leaves, there are but two, are arranged in a shuttle-eock-like vertical, neatly plicated, and the flower has wide converging segments and a curious warty lip in the way of C. humile, but with a rounded aperture at the centre and a few parallel raised processes at the tip. The whole plant is hispidalous. The Garden published a coloured plate of this curious species several years ago. M. (To be continued. ) THE FINEST GROUP OF CHRYSAN- THEMUMS IN SCOTLAND LAST YEAR. Mr. Williamson, Glasgow, sends a photograph, which we reproduce, of the finest exhibit of Chrysanthemums in Scotland last year. This record display was to be seen at the Glasgow Corporation Camphill Gardens. Forty - one varieties are represented, and, as our correspon- dent says : "It stands unequalled in Scotland, perhaps in Britain, and reflects great credit on Glasgow's Parks Department. ' of scions for multiplying the stock for commercial purposes. For instance, that good varietj' AUington Pippin is not wanted when one has Cox's Orange Pippin, as it is inferior ; it is softer in texture and does not keep so well. Edward VII. is a new variety from which much was expected, but I cannot see an}' im- provement. We have several trees in bearing, so that I am not speaking from hearsay, but from actual experience. Pears in season at this time are few in number ; the same mistake often occurs. People plant varieties they see at the autumn shows. Easter Beurr^ can be had in fine condition now by introducing the fruits into a warm room about twenty-four hours before they are wanted for consumption. If a smaller Pear be in demand, then by all means grow Winter Nelis and bring it on in the same manner. In some catalogues they tell you Thompson's is a good December Pear, but I have found it i« gone long before Christmas ; nevertheless, it is well worth growing. Doyenn(5 du Comice. — This is the best Pear in November and the first and second week in December, but cannot be said to be a Christmas Pear, as it does uDt keep after the second week, or very rarely. Our last fruits of this variety are 30 THE GARDEN [Janttary 18, 1908. rarely gathered before November, and even then they fail to go on till Christmas. Fondante de Thirriot is a good Pear for December ; it has a green skin, and here and there is covered with patches of russet, but it is most delicious and is a good grower. Glou Mor9eau or Beurre d'Handenpont is always a good Pear at this time ; it is buttery, rich and delicious, and finishes its fruit best on a wall or some sheltered situation. Charles Ernest, a large handsome fruit, is another reliable variety now in season. It grows well as a cordon or as a fan-trained tree on a wall. Beurr^ de Jonghe is another Pear always ready for the New Year, and can be kept five weeks later. There are many others which I will enumerate on another occasion by permission of the Editor. It must be borne in mind that all Pears at this season are the better for dessert when placed in a warm temperature for a little while. Of course, only by much experience can the precise time be dictated in each case. A few hours only are enough for those that are mature, and, as a rule, they are useless afterwards, so that only as many as are required should be served up under this process. W. A. Cook. Leonardshe, Horsham. Transparent, Denniston's Superb, Jefferson, Golden Drop and others, all of the highest excellence, all unsurpassed by any other unless it is the Green Gage, and all bearing four or five times as well as the latter, which is said to bear only once in seven years. Yet it is, and doubt- less will remain, one of the first the inexperienced amateur plants. Like many of our most excellent fruits, its origin is lost in obscurity. It is supposed by some authorities to be a native of Greece and by others of Caucasia. It is said by some to have been introduced at the beginning of the eighteenth century by Sir Thomas Gage of Hengrove Hall, near Bury St. Edmunds, who procured it from his brother then resident in Paris ; others say it was introduced earlier than this. In France, which may be said to be the modern home of the Gages, they are known as Reine Claudes, e.y. , R. C. de Bavay, R. C. Violette, &c. Dr. Hogg enumerates twenty-five synonyms of the old Green Gage. It comes fairly true from seed as a rule, though there are innumerable variants all sufficiently alike to be called Green Gage, while there are a dozen or more well-marked On those rare occasions when a tree is thickly set with fruit it pays to thin it in June, for if left to ripen too heavy a crop, not only will the fruit be small, but deficient in flavour. It is useless planting this tree in the open near woods or where bullfinches are very troublesome, as they take all the best fruit-buds in winter. I know of standard trees near woods where the blossom - buds are almost entirely removed every year. It is said that wall trees often bear much worse than they would do through want of water, and winter watering is recommended. I have prac- tised this, and have had better results since. I am inclined to think it is a case of cause and effect. It must be borne in mind that not only does the wall keep oft' a deal of rain when the wind is behind it, but that it absorbs a great deal when the rain is blown directly on the face of it, this being lost by evaporation during the first few dry hours afterwards. Alger Petts. WELL - GROWN VINES. The illustration repre- sents two vineries, early and late, with six Vines in each. Each Vine contains from four to six rods. There are nine varieties, as follows: Two Black Hamburgh, two Muscat of Alexandria, two Frontignans, with one each of Foster's Seed- ling, Golden Champion Alicante, Gros Colman, Mrs. Pinee and Lady Down's Seedling. As near as I can find out they have been planted about forty years and at times have been badly neglected and heavily cropped, so when I took charge of them three years ago I found a great deal of shanking among them, my employer, the Rev. Meyrick Jones, having taken the place some little time before then. I generally apply a good dressing of rich farmyard manure in winter after cleaning down the houses. Two or three waterings of weak liquid manure are given and a dressing of Thompson's Vine Manure. They now seem to have taken a new lease of life. H. Prothebo. The Gardens, Stanley House, Stmiehotcse, near Gkmcester. THE OLD GREEN GAGE PLUM. Amateurs will doubtless continue to plant the real old Green Gage, or what is sold to them as such, and become resigned to its failure to fruit, even when it flowers freely nearly every year. Market growers also will continue to plant it, as it still remains unsurpassed, and perhaps un- equalled, by any of the more rei:ent introduc- tions, even of the Gage type, and where the soil and situation does just suit it the lucky possessor has a fortune. Perhaps its greatest merit, from a market point of view, is that the man in the street knows it and will buy it, or what looks like it if laVjelled (Jreen Gage, whenever and wherever he can get it. There are other Plums, e.y., Early WELL-GROWN VINES AT STANLEY HOUSE. and distinct forms of it varying in size, colour, shape, quality, season, &c. Like most of the Gages, the old Green Gage is a very strong grower, and when grown as a wall tree or dwarf tree of any form it requires vigorous root pruning to get it into bearing con- dition. I know some bush trees twenty years old 8 feet high and as many in diameter which have never borne a crop of fruit, and never will as at present managed, being cut in close every year ; in fact, clipped into shape. A chalky soil on high ground is perhaps best suited for it, and in such positions it is well grown in some parts of Kent. The flower is more than ordinarily suscep- tible to damage by frost, such a long time elapsing before the embryo fruit begins to swell, and that is why it is best on high ground. In some places it does better as a standard in grass than anywhere else. The fruit is smaller from a standard than from a wall, but often of richer flavour, while somewhat different in appearance, the fruit from a wall being brownisli green and orange, with a beautiful bloom upon it, while that from a standard is often destitute of bloom, but is marked with russet patches and reddish dots, the latter, however, sometimes appearing on wall trees as well. STRAWBERRY FORCING. Assuming that the plants are thoroughly ripened and developed, the difficulties attending successful Strawberry forcing are very few, providing proper convenience is at command. Compara- tively few gardens can boast of a Strawberry house, or any house that can be devoted to Strawberry culture alone. Where space is very limited we would advise deferring Straw- berry forcing to a more favourable season, when the chances of failure will be consider- ably less. At this early date it no easy matter to get a good percentage of plants to flower ; but this diflioulty may be lessened if a heated pit is available and the plants can be plunged in a bed of leaves of moderate warmth. In so doing, the roots are encouraged into action correspondingly with the leafage. To restrict leaf growth until the flower spikes are visible a little air should bo admitted on the top and bottom of tlie pit on all favourable occasions. It is the undue hastening of the plants into luxuriant growth that causes so many to become blind. COLOURED PLATE PLATE 1S41. TUBEROUS BEGONIA WILLIAM MARSHALL. THIS Begonia is, perhaps, the most handsome j>carlet tuberous Begonia in existence. As may be seen in the coloured plate it is a very full double variety of e.xquisite shape with hand- some, robust foliage. It was raised by Mr. Pope at Messrs. T. S. Ware's Bexley Heath Nurseries in 1903, and is named after Mr. William Marshall, V.M.H. , chairman of the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society. The habit of the plant is very erect, yet robust, and it will undoubtedly become a very popular variety. Messrs. Ware, Limited, make a speciality of tuberous Begonias, and have introduced many sterling varieties during recent years. January 18, 1908.] THE GARDEN. 31 THE FLOWER GARDEN HUTCHINSIA ALPINA. m ■ OST of us are familiar with the accom- modating way in which Aubrietia and Arabis increase in our gardens, and though not so large in its parts as either of these Hutchinsia alpina is equally willing to make itself at home. It belongs to the great group of Crueifers or Cress family, and its dainty beauty is accen- tuated by growing a large patch. Hutchinsia alpina is remarkably free in flowering ; it makes sheets of snow white flowers in May and June, though it is rarely without flowers the greater part of the summer. One of its greatest charms is the soft green colour of the foliage throughout the winter, which refreshes the eye and reminds one of spring. One can imagine no more pleasing edging to a spring garden than a broad ribbon of this plant, for it is easily propagated by small tufts placed in sandy soil in a cold frame, so that the idea is easily practicable in small gardens. The height of the plant is about 3 inches, attaining to a height of 6 inches when in flower. It also makes a delightful carpet when studded with the flowers of Chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow) or some of the smaller Narcissus, like N. triandrus. The group illustrated is grown upon the steep slope of a rockery in light, chalky soil, facing south, and is two years old from cuttings. Thomas Smith. Walmsgate Gardens, Louth, Lines. A FINE YUCCA. The illustration shows a very fine flowering specimen of the Mound Lily or Adam's Needle (Yucca gloriosa). This plant is a native of the United States of America, but specimens are met with in many of our gardens, especially in the South of England, where they prove quite hardy. They are but little trouble to grow if a well- drained and open soil is provided. Planted in a bed on a lawn they assume a majestic appearance and always prove attractive. Inflorescences are not produced very freely, but when they do appear they are decidedly attractive, the hundreds of good-sized, whitish flowers lasting for many weeks. Propagation may often be eifected by means of suckers that are produced naturally, or old pieces of stems may be placed in a warm propagating case during early summer, when side- shoots will be formed. These may be taken oS' with a slight heel and inserted in well-drained pots of sandy soil, keep- ing these plunged in a temperature of 6.5" until the cuttings have rooted. YUCCA GLORIOSA IN FLOWER. Unlike many other flowers the Fuchsia seems but little afiected by the heaviest downpour. Its flowers move with the wind and so escape, while the umbrella-like corolla prevents any moisture trickling to the centre. True the branches of some varieties are rather brittle, but others, such as F. macrostemnia gracilis are fairly tough and might be used by the hybridist to add suppleness where it is now lacking. Nor is it impossible to intermarry hardy and tender species and still retain the hardiness of the former, with the addition of the bright colours of the latter. What has been done by M. Marliac for the Nymphiuas can surely be accomplished with the Fuchsias. There are already several species quite or almost hardy. From one of these (F. globosa) a seedling, viz., F. Rieeartonii, was raised in 1830. HARDY FUCHSIAS. Who will give us a race of hardy Fuchsias that shall include all the beautiful colours and variations of those which now grace our green- houses ? Fuchsias equal in size and hardiness to F. Rieeartonii, which in most English counties soon makes a fine shrub. What a boon they would be in late summer, when shrub borders are always rather sparse of flower and colour, and how charming their graceful and brightly- coloured flowers among the changing foliage in the more sombre days pf the waning year. ONE or THE CRESS FAMLLV (HUTCHINSIA ALPINA). One would have thought the increased hardiness, size and brightness in the flowers of this variety would have proved sufficient incentive for further effort ; seventy-seven years have, however, passed since then and very little has been done. Of the species before-mentioned many are well worth the small amount of protection they need in the more northern parts of the country. The seaside, even in the exposed Eastern Counties, seems to suit them admirably. In colder dis- tricts a sheltered situation, such as the side of a house, shed or wall should be chosen in which to plant. Not that they ought to be shaded in any way ; provided the soil is fairly moist below, they cannot have too much sun. In winter a covering of cinders. Heather or evergreen branches may be placed over the roots, though in many places this is not necessary. Young plants should, however, be carefully protected ; they are far more liable to be frozen the first winter after planting than when they have become established. Propagation is easily carried out by means of cuttings, which root readily, preference being given to those shoots without flower-buds in the axils of the leaves. All Fuchsias prefer a light, well-drained soil, but heavy land, if not too wet, can easily be made suitable by adding leaf-mould or old potting soil. Plant in April ; if the plants have been kept very cool and rather dry they will be dormant, and as the weather becomes warmer will soon make rapid growth, but if they have been kept in a greenhouse their tender foliage must be carefully inured to outside conditions before planting out towards the end of the month. With the exception of F. Rieear- tonii, they are best treated as perennials, pruning them to the ground level early in March, giving at the same time a top-dressing of manure. The Best Sorts. Among the hardiest species and varieties may be named F. maerostemma gracilis, hardy, good habit, flowers red and purple, produced freely : F. m. ooecinea, late-flowering, tubes and sepals long, scarlet, corolla purple ; F. m. globosa, dwarf, flowers red and purple, rather dull, free- flowering ; F. m. pumila, 12 inches to 15 inches in height, neat and compact ; F. corallina, a robust, large-leaved, free-growing sort ; F. Rieeartonii, a hardy shrub of highly decorative character. Another fine variety, one which passed through last winter in the open border quite unharmed, is Mme. Corneillson ; the flowers are of good size and shape, scarlet sepals, tinted on the under side with pink, veins of the same colour beautifying the white corolla. Its S habit is good, it grows freely and flowers pro- fusely ; a small plant put out here in April, 190ti, was on October 12 a mass of flower, 3 feet 6 inches in height and nearly as much through. Others might be men- tioned, but my purpose is to awaken an interest which will not be satis- fied with those already in cultivation. If this is achieved we may see beautiful flower- iSQl ing plants adorning our • '^^\ shrub borders during the late summer with flowers almost as large as some of those we now grow under glass. I think everyone will agree that there is room for improvement. J. Comber. Handcroia, Crawley. 32 THE GARDEN. (January 18, 1908. G^RT>ENING FOR BEGINNERS, GARDEN WORK WEEK BY WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN.— In open weather plant German Irises. When the weather is frosty prepare new beds and borders for hardy plants and deeply dig or trench new ground intended for shrubberies. Deciduous plants and climbers may be pruned now, rearrang- ing growths of the latter, and carefully nailing them to the walls and fences as the work pro- gresses. Vegetable Garden. —Prepare hot- beds forforoing early crops of Carrots, Asparagus and Radishes. Where stable manure is plentiful, this way of raising early crops and seedlings has much to commend it. A sheltered situation should be selected for the hot-bed, where protection from cold winds can be provided. Early Peas may now be sown on warm, protected borders, but in other positions such work must be deferred for a few weeks. Quarters intended for Carrots and other root crops should be trenched or deeply dug as soon as possible, using well-rotted manure, which should be placed as a layer at considerable depth below the surface. Frozen Window Plants. — Should any plants get frozen, place them in a cool dark cellar or room and sprinkle them with cold water. On no account attempt to thaw them with warm or tepid water or place them near to a fire to thaw. The earliest Ijulbous flowers should now be making the window gay. Oreenhouse and Gonseroatory. — Keep the fire going steadily to dispel damp and prevent injury from frost. (Jive water carefully to all plants. Repot Lilies. The golden-rayed Lily (Lilium auratuni) and L. speciosum, it potted up in a soil made up of loam, leaf-mould, peat, well-rotted manure and sand in equal parts, will do well. Cuttings of such plants as Geraniums, Lobelias, for many plants that are fast developing their blossoms. Keep the frames carefully and securely matted up at night and throughout the day when frosts prevail Freesias and other bulbous-rooted subjects in cold frames should be staked and tied, as they require support. On bright, warm days the frame-lights covering bulbs and Violets should be thrown off for an hour or two, and any plants suffering from damp should have the affected leaves or petals removed. Violets require plenty of air, and this should be afforded them when the weather is not too severe. Chrysanthemums. — Early-flowering decorative and Pompon sorts may be propagated freely. Insert cuttings of these sorts in shallow boxes and 3-inch and 5-inch pots, using a compost of loam and leaf -mould in equal parts, with the free addition of coarse silver sand or clean road-grit. Sift these soils. The cool greenhouse is an excellent place in which to root the cuttings now. A COOD SPECIMEN OF MAIDENHAIR FERN (AI)IANTUM CUNBATUM). Ageratums, Heliotropes and Petunias should be inserted now. Lily of the Valley, Deutzia graci- lis. Azalea mollis, Solomon's Seal and Spiriea japonica should now be placed in a light position and watered moderately. TWO GOOD FERNS FOR ROOMS. The Australian Bracken. — This, the Quivering or Trembling Fern, Pteris tremula, is closely related to our native Bracken, P. aquilina, and constitutes one of the very best and handsomest Ferns for growing in rooms. Immense quantities of it are raised in nurseries annually from spores, a very easy means of propagation in this instance. Young plants in "ii-inch pots can be easily and cheaply purchased, the middle of April being a good time of the year to secure a supply. As these will in most cases have been grown on rapidly under comparatively hot and moist conditions, some special care is needed for a week or two after they are bought, giving them the warmest position in the room and sheltering them from drying draughts. A mistake that amateurs almost invariably make with these newly-bought young Ferns, and one that often proves fatal, is to repot them into a larger pot as soon as they are received .. -^-.n,- from the vendor. No doubt the purchaser is tempted to do this by the pot-bound condition of the roots that usually pre- vails, but it is much wiser to keep them in their small pots until they are thoroughly accus- tomed to their new surround- ings. They may then be given larger - sized pots with advan- tage, providing perfect drainage and using the same soil as advised below for the Maiden- hair Fern. Maidenhair Fern. — This is too well known to need descrip- tion. The illustration shows a good specimen thathasevidently been well treated. The best time to repot established plants is about the middle of March, using soil composed of three parts very fibrous loam, one part peat, and one part coarse sand. Keep rather close for a fortnight afterwards and be very careful with the watering until the plants are established in their new quarters. Cold Frames. — Cyclamen and other somewhat WINTER-FLOWERING CARNATIONS. These plants have become so very popular of late that all gardens worthy of the name appear to be tender plants should be placed in the cold frames incomplete without at least a small collection of as they go out of flower. This will make room the better varieties. English raisers are now vieing with their American rivals in the intro- duction of new and beautiful flowers, and as a consequence of this praiseworthy effort we are now in possession of quite an interesting list of named varieties. The Tree or Perpetual-flowering Carnations, by which description the winter- flowering sorts are more generally known, are flowers partaking of a great diversity of colouring, and *heir form is pleasingly varied. They are THE AUSTRALIAN BRACKEN (PTERIS TREMULA). not difficult to cultivate if the grower is quite prepared to give them the conditions in which they invariably do well. Some of the newer sorts are, of course, expensive, but the older varieties, which are almost as good as many of the novelties, may be raised in large numbers when one is in possession of a plant or two with which to make stock. How to Make Carnation Cuttings. — Much depends upon the character of tlie individual plant that is dealt with. The proper length of a cutting is about 3 inches, though half an inch less is quite long enough. These may be detached quite freely in the late winter as the plants go out of flower, the frequent cutting back of the plants having the effect of inducing them to evolve fresh young shoots from time to time. Always use a sharp knife and make a clean out through. Remove the lower leaves by simply pulling them down, and cut through the joint, just leaving the eye, immediately below which the roots are emitted. A joint is that part of the stem where the leaf-stalk forms a junction with the cutting. Propagating Winter -flowering Carnations. — Propagation of the winter-flowering Carnations may be done in January and in subsequent months as cuttings are available. There are several ways of rooting the cuttings, but the simplest method is that of inserting them in pots filled with sandy soil, and placing them in a propagating frame where genial bottom-heat can be provided. The cutting may be rooted exclusively in sand or in very sandy soil. In sand of a reddish or sand- stone character the cuttings root with great freedom, and we prefer to use this to any other. Where this is not available, make up a mixture of sandy loam, leaf-mould and clean road-grit or sharp sand of some sort, using half a part of each of the two first-mentioned soils and one part of the road-grit. Mix these ingredients thoroughly January 18, 1908.] THE GARDEN. 33 CARNATION OOTTINi; WITH LOWER LEAVES REMOVED READY FOR INSERTION. before using the material. Pots of a size to suit the requirements of each individual grower should be used, and, where possible, the cuttings should be inserted singly in 21 -inch pots. However, we prefer to avail ourselves of a propagating frame in a warm greenhouse where the bottom-heat is about 70° to 75° and the temperature of the glass structure some 10° to 1.5° less. If the propa- gating frame is filled in 6 inches or 7 inches deep with reddish sand, the cuttings may be dibbled in freely and will root within about three weeks. No frame-light.s should be placed over the cut- tings, as this predisposes them to fail. When inserting the cuttings, always see they rest on the sand in the bottom of the hole and press the soil firmly at their base ; 2 inches between the cuttings will suffice. Water in with a fine-rosed can, using tepid water. Potting Up the Booted Cuttings. — As soon as the cuttings are rooted they should be potted up into small pots. On no account must they be allowed to remain long in the propagating case after they are rooted. Evidence of rooting will be given by fresh growth of a pale green kind. Two and a-half inch pots are quite large enough for the first potting, and these should be clean and crocked with potsherds. Place a small quantity of soil over the crocks ; then proceed to lift each rooted cutting, disturbing the roots as little as possible, and subsequently arranging them carefully before filling in the compost. Make the soil fairly firm from bottom to top, as the non-observance of this rule is a frequent source of failure. When the young plants are finished they should be stood together in the same glass house where a moist bottom and a free circulation of air can be provided. When established they should be transferred to a glass house where less close conditions prevail. The soil for this first potting should consist of good sandy loam, leaf-mould and clean road grit. Subsequent Repottinqs. — As soon as the young plants are nicely established in the ordinary greenhouse they will need another shift in a little while, and this time into pots measuring 3^ inches to 4 inches in diameter. Subsequently it will be found advantageous to give them another shift into 6-ineh pots, or those a trifle less in diameter. A good soil for these later repottings should consist of good fibrous loam, to which should be added some well-decomposed horse manure and a free sprinkling of bone-meal. Should sandy loam be used, little road grit will be needed ; on the other hand, heavy loam should have mixed with it plenty of coarse sand or road grit. Plants should be overlooked before repotting, and those that are dry should be well watered. During the summer months, say, from .June onwards, the plants may be stood in cold frames or pits, but be removed to the greenhouse in August. Later Treatment. — After housing the plants always give plenty of top air. It is a great mistake to excite the plants into growth by keeping them unduly warm or close. The temperature of the glass structure should be maintained at about 50° to 55° at night and 60° to 65° during the day. Watering must be done with care, using common-sense. Apply water to A ROOTED CARNATION CUTTING, SHOWING HAIR-LIKE ROOTS. the plants when the soil is nearly or moderately dry, and err on the side of caution in wet, cold and foggy weather. Manure water may be given to the plants when they are well rooted and buds are formed, but always err on the weak side. A Few Good Winter- flowering Carnations. — Robert Craig, bright scarlet, large ; Mrs. Burnett, lovely salmon pink ; Mrs. S. J. Brooks, pure white ; Britannia, scarlet : Duchess of Portland, soft pink of medium size and lovely form ; Fair Maid, large, light pink ; Enchantress, beautiful flesh pink, large ; Harlowarden, deep crimson ; Nelson Fisher, intense cerise, large : Mrs. T. W. Lawson, a beautiful pink, sweet scented ; Mrs. Robert Norman, a grand pure white sort ; Mrs. William Cutbush, bright rose-pink ; Windsor, beautiful pink ; and Mikado, white with distinct crimson blotches. SEASONABLE HINTS ON THE CARE OF ROOM PLANTS. The winter is a very trying time for these occupants of our homes. The extra firing and burning of gas that has to be resorted to tends to render the atmosphere of the rooms dry and dusty, and this is far from being beneficial to healthy plant life. Some people who are aware of this evil try to avoid it, and do what is equally detrimental, namely, allow the plants to remain in seldom-used rooms ; and, of course, these get too cold for them. Of the two drawbacks the former is the lesser, so long as the plants are kept from being directly under the gas or in front of the fire. The dryness of the room and dirty appearance of the plants must be counter- balanced by more frequent spongings. These remarks apply to Palms, Aspidistras, India- rubber Plants, Castor Oil Plants and others of a similar character. Geraniums and Fuchsias can be kept through the winter even without the aid of green- houses, though with them much easier, pro- viding a spare room or its equivalent space, from which the frost can be kept, is available. Practically all foliage will come off the (Tcraniums and Fuchsias at this season ; but this need not alarm anyone, as they quickly make new leaves in the spring if we can preserve the roots and stems alive. To do this it will be necessary in very severe weather to burn a lamp or small oil stove in the room so as to keep the temperature from falling below freezing point. Another very important point for the safe wintering of such plants is to keep them well on the dry side during the cold, frosty weather, as by so doing they are much less likely to take any ill effects. When watering must be done, choose a mild day. Water thoroughly, and do it in the morning, so that the plants may be well drained before night time. The Fuchsias will not need more than a couple of waterings through the winter, and, being hardier than the Geraniums, may be stood under a table or in a corner. The Geraniums need all possible light, and therefore should be placed where that will be obtainable. C. Turner. ROOTED CARNATION CniTXNG ESTABLISHED IN A "thumb" pot. 34 THE GARDEN. [January 18, 1908. GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FOR THE SOUTH AND SOUTH MIDLANDS. Forcing I'epaktmbnt. SO W a few Cucumber and Melon seeds of approved varieties to give an early supply, and to do this effectively now care should be taken in prejjaring the soil, which should be of the best quality and free from worms, grubs and other vermin. Take sufheient into a warm house for the purpose, sow in small pots and when the seedlings are well rooted transplant or pot on into a larger size, disturbing the roots as little as possible. Some good fibrous loam, with a portion of leaf-soil and decayed manure, will be the right material. Keep up a supply of bulbs and plants for the conservatory and house decoration by introducing plants each week. Vijies. — The earliest Vines may now be kept 5° warmer by day and night, and on bright days syringe them twice or thrice daily. If the rods show signs of breaking too freely bend the top down to induce growth at the bottom. A second house may now be started by shutting it up. All Vines should be pruned by this time or they may bleed, which is very weakening. Peach Hovjie. — This house may now have a little more heat, but proceed with caution, and as soon as the blooms begin to open allow a little circulation of air, and on bright days the trees should be sprayed with a very fine jet. This I have found the best way of procuring the most satisfactory set of fruit. A second house may now be closed. Each fruit house should be scrupulously cleaned before being started, cleanliness in Peach growing being one of the principal elements of success. Flowt:r Garden. Sweet Peas in Pols. — Sow a batch in pots and place in a cool house or frame. Only the best varieties should be grown. As soon as the seedlings are up keep them very close to the glass to prevent a drawn growth. Fern House. Keep Ferns a little drier, except those that are in active growth. The new types of Nephro- lepis are excellent for decoration and are readily increased. They must not, however, be grown in too much heat, as they are apt to run back to their old-fashioned parent. The Greenhouse. Primnlae and Cinerarias. — Give these supplies of manure water and a pinch of artificial manure occasionally. Cyclamen should be now looking very fine, and when a house can be devoted to them they are very effective. A batch of Amaryllis sho\x\d now be started. Shake out the soil and pot in fresh material. Give very little water till active growth begins. Roses. — Get a batch of these in now and force steadily. Top-dress and clean the pots, and write fresh labels and prune fairly hard, except the Teas, which should have all puny weak growths entirely removed. Kitchen Garden. Garter's Eir/ht-ireck Pf.a. — This is an extremely early variety and crops well. Choose fine days for sowing, and if the ground is very pasty get on it by the aid of long planks. Seji.kale. — Take up all that is required for forcing inside. Dig the ground deeply, so that all the roots arc collected, and prepare strong thongs for next season's supply. Lay them in bundles of fifty in ashes, which, however, should be protected from frost. M'XiJilnrd and Cress should be sown as often as required. Plant Potatoes in pots and frames that were stood on end, as recommended in my first calendar. Carter's First Crop is a perfect type of Potato for this purpose, as the crop matures in a short time. Sow Broad Beans. — Extra Early Long Pod is a grand variety for early sowing. Sow also on a warm border Autu7nn-sotni Peas should have some ashes put around them to keep worms and slugs away. If Broccoli are turning in seasonably they should be lifted and placed in sheds or frames, as a frost soon spoils the head ; if lifted they last a long time. Hardy Fruit Garden. PruniniSociatlon. Twelve best Apples for flavour. There is sure to be a diversity of opinion on this subject, but as your correspondent rightly states the various opinions of growers on " Twelve of the best dessert Apples for flavour " FEBRtJARlr 1, 1908.1 THE GARDEN. M will prove most interesting and instructive. Some people prefer an aoid Apple, a large number a sweet Apple, and others give preference to varieties possessing what is known as a Pine flavour. In dealing with this question it is most important to bear in mind the locality in which the individual varieties of Apples have proved to be of superior flavour. In the county of Hertfordshire the following twelve dessert Apples have been found diflSeult to beat in re.spect to flavour, while the majority of them are in suitable seasons good croppers, and when the necessary cultural requirements are afibrded them are mostly of clean, healthy growth. These Apples are placed in their order of ripening, and it will be seen that the season extends from August to the following May. Irish Peacli. — This is an old favourite, of medium size, possessing a delicious flavour. This Apple has often failed under severe pruning ; it should be lightly pruned, as the fruits are produced chiefly on the points of the shoots. James Oriere is an Apple of Scottish introduction, and one that is often successfully grown where Cox's Orange Pippin fails. This is an Apple which is fast gaining favour, as it is hardy, prolific and of excellent flavour. Ribslon Pippin comes next, and although much has been said against planting this Apple, owing to it being subject to canker, there are still many growers who, by selecting trees from a clean healthy stock and planting in warm soils and aspects, are very successful with this variety. Cox's Orange Pippin. — There is no better Apple for flavour, and, fortunately, this variety can be well grown in all forms, but prefers a warm, rather rich soil. It is wise to plant this variety among other Apples to ensure cross-fertilisation. The finest fruit has been gathered from bush trees growing on the Paradise stock. Atlimjton Pippin. — This is an abundant bearer and the fruit possesses somewhat the flavour of Cox's Orange Pippin. The growth is vigorous and healthy. May be grown in all forms with good results. Adams Pearmain. — This Apple is of a distinct sugary flavour and very juicy. In shape the fruits are conical and very pretty, having a yellowish skin, with russet spots and red streaks. Trees of moderate growth and pendulous habit. Manninuton' s Pearmain is an abundant bearer. The colour of the flesh is yellow and the flavour rich and sugary. This Apple is sometimes ready for use in November, but is often in season as late as February. Warwickshire Pippin or Wyken Pippin. — This is an Apple below medium size, is of rich aromatic flavour, a great favourite in some localities, and deserves a place in every good collection. Scarlet Nonpareil. — Fruit rather small, but of a refreshing crisp flavour and very handsome in colour and shape. Growth slender ; makes a prolific bearer on the Paradise, but may also be grown as an orchard tree on the Crab stock. Claygate Piarmain. — Fruit medium in size, possessing a very rich flavour somewhat resembling Ribston Pippin. Growth of tree strong and rather spreading ; succeeds both on the Crab or Paradise stock, but is, perhaps, more fertile on the latter. Fearii's Pippin. — Fruit medium in size, of a brisk refreshing flavour and very brilliant in colour. Growth moderate, generally good as a bush, and also successful as an orchard standard. Although most frequently classed as a late Apple, it is often fit for the table in late November and early December. Allen's Everlasting. — For dessert in April and May this is an Apple of excellent flavour. Size of fruit medium, and flat in shape. This variety is of rather slender growth, and forms a dwarf and compact tree when grown as a bush. Fruit must not be gathered too early or it will shrivel and become worthless. — C. Rdse, Miiiiden Gardens, Watjord. In selecting the best twelve Apples, the planter will need to have regard to those varieties best suited to his particular climate, position and soil. Mr. Gladstone is one of the earliest Apples we have. It is a medium-sized fruit of excellent flavour. In colour it is red with yellow stripes. The tree is a great bearer and very adaptable to orchard culture. It is in season July and August. Irish Peach is a great favourite when in good condition. It requires to be eaten direct from the tree, when its flavour is fine. The tree is of medium growth and a good bearer. It makes a good orchard tree, and is also suited for the garden. It is ripe early in Augiist. Worcester Pearmain is probably the most popular Apple in its season that we have. It is a splendid orchard variety, and is in great demand for market. A medium-sized fruit of splendid ap- pearance and excellent flavour. In season August and September. Lady Sudelei/. — This is a beautiful Apple when well grown, but, like most early sorts, should be eaten directly after gather- ing, when its flavour is excellent. It is a very persistent bearer, and very suitable for the garden as bush or pyramid. In season with Worcester Pearmain. Ribston Pipjiin. — This variety is too well known to need description. It is, undoubtedly, one of the best flavoured Apples we have, and succeeds best in a sheltered position on a warm soil. In season October to May. King oj the Pippins is one of the best known Apples. It does excellently in almost any form. In season at Christmas. Allington Pippin is becoming a great fa\ourite, as it is THE GREENHOUSE, SO.VIE OF THE NEWER CHRYSA.NTHEMUMS. T ^ HE season that has just passed has not been remarkable for first - class novelties, although a few sorts are of great excellence. The Japanese blooms, as usual, have largely pre- dominated, a few noteworthy speci- mens being conspicuous. Strange to relate, an j impetus has been given to the incurved section I by the introduction of one or two sterling I novelties. The single-flowered sorts have been I shown in immense numbers, and it is pleasing to ' note that the decorative aspect of these flowers is being better appreciated than was the case at one time. Decorative or market Chrysanthe- mums are now regarded with more favour. Tlie following embrace some of the better varieties of more recent introduction : Japanese. H. J. Jones (1908). — This is a very handsome large flower of Japanese incurved form, having long, broad florets of good substance, and the colour may be described as rich golden yellow, OnONTOGLOfSUM HYBRIDl'M UINOELIANUM. {FLOWER REDUCED ONK-UALF. ) (Slioun before the Roijal HorHmUural Soeietfi tin the I'dli ult. Iin Bamn Schroder, ivhen it was awardetl a ftrst-class certificate. See paije US.) better known. In point of flavour it much i resembles Cox's Orange Pippin, which is one of its parents, but it is not so fastidious as that variety. It is not keeping well this season, which is no doubt due to the wet, sunless season of last year. November to February. James Grien. — This variety is perhaps not so well known as some of the above, but for flavour and cropping qualities it is hard to beat. It is ripe in Sep- tember. Adam's Pearmain is an excellent flavoured Apple. The tree is an abundant bearer. Can be recommended as being specially suitable for the amateur grower. In season December to February. C'o.c's Orange Pippin is, undoubtedly, the greatest favourite of all dessert Apples. Where the conditions are suitable it should be planted largely. It succeeds well either in the garden or orchard. In season from November to end of February. King of Tomkin's County is one of the latest sorts we have. It is of American origin and has a splendid flavour. The fruit should be allowed to hang on the trees till late in the season, when they will keep in good condition till May. The tree is a i great bearer and succeeds well in almost any form, j Dake of Deronshire is another late variety of sterling merit. It is a medium-sized fruit of fine flavour. The tree is a good bearer of free habit, succeeding well in any form or situation. — E. H., Frogmorr. with a paler reverse to the florets. This variety received a first-class certificate from the National Chrysanthemum Society on October 14 last, and on the succeeding day an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, William Petty. — In this instance we have a very interesting novelty of Japanese reflexed form, which impressed the National Chrysanthe- mum Society's floral committee so much that they wished to see it again. The colour may be described as rich cream, suffused with light rose, and its attractiveness is added to by its yellowish-coloured centre. Mrs. L. Thome. — This is an excellent counter- part to the variety H. J. Jones above mentioned, being similar in character to that promising sort. The difference in this novelty, however, is its colour, which is best described as light canary yellow. The florets are long and broad, and build up a Japanese flower of good substance. First-class certificate. National Chrysanthemum Society, October 14 last. Mrs. O. F. Coster. — This is one of the most remarkable blooms of the past season, being an ideal type of Japanese reflexed. It is an immense flower, having long, broad florets, and is ideal for exhibition. The colour is best described as amber, shaded bronze, a colour that is very pleasing under artificial light. It is of English origin, emanating from the gardens of Mr. 52 THE GARDEN. [February 1, 1908. Martin Silsbury, Shanklin, Isle of Wight. First-elass certificate, National Chrysanthemum Society, and award ot merit, Royal Horticultural Society, in October last. Lady Smith of Treliske. — This variety will be best appreciated when it is stated to be a primrose-coloured sport, with light reverse to the florets, from the popular white variety Mme. Marguerite de Mons. Like the parent variety, the flowers are deep and solidly built, and are seen to great advantage when arranged in stately vases. First-class certificate. National Chrysan- themum Society, October 28. F. W. Lei'er. — This is a Japanese novelty, having very long, broad florets that are slight Ij' indented, curled and incurving at the ends. As an exhibition flower it should be very largely in demand. The colour is rich creamy white, with a richer cream centre. First-class certifi- cate. National Chrysanthemum Society, and award of merit. Royal Horticultural Society, October 28 and 29 respectively. Miss Faith Moore. — This is an interesting type of the Japanese incurved section, and is a flower having rather narrow florets. It is pure white, and is a distinct acquisition to this section. First-class certificate. National Chrysanthemum Society, October 28. Wallace Godfrei/.— Seldom are Chrysanthe- mums recognised for their colour alone, but in the present instance the National Chrysanthe- mum Society commended this beautiful flower for its colour. It may be described as a rich golden amber, tinted rose in the centre. Metchet Beauty. — The colour in this instance is a rich yellow, freely suffused and tinted rosy red. The flower is quite distinct in form, being a beautiful Japanese reflexed. The petals are broad and long, and are of good substance. Clara Vermwi. — This is another distinct Japanese reflexed decorative bloom, and was cer- tificated by the National Chrysanthemum Society HS such. It is a flower of good form and useful si/.e. The colour may be described as a deep rich crimson self. The Royal Horticultural Society also gave an award of merit in favour of this variety on October 2!t last. Georije Milcham (1908). — This is an excellent Knglish seedling from the gardens in charge of the individual in whose honour the flower is named. The date appended to the name of this variety is to distinguish it from an older one bearing the same name, but probably now out of cultivation. The flower is a .Japanese incurved, having broad florets of good length and naturally incurved. The colour in this instance is canary yellow. First-class certificate, National Chry- santhenmm Society, November (J. Freda Bedford. — This is a marketer decorative variety, and as a representative of this section is distinctly pretty. The florets are of medium width and drooping. In a good light the colour is a warm tone of deep apricot, and under arti- ficial light it is distinctly pleasing. First-class certificate. National Chrysanthemum Society, November 0. Felton's Farourilt. — This is one of the prettiest Japanese sorts of the present season, but cannot be regarded as an exhibition flower. As a matter of fact it is of medium size, having some- what stiff, crisp, reflexing florets. The colour may be described as glistening creamy white. A magnificent vase of these flowers was exhibited at the November show of the National Chrysan- themum Society, on which occasion the variety received a first-class certificate. Marrjuin of No-rthamptoii. — This variety will be better appreciated when it is stated to be a beautiful bright bronzy yellow sport from the popular .Japanese, sort W. A. Etherington. As an exhibition variety it should be much in demand ; the blooms staged on the occasion when the National Chrysanthemum Society gave it a first-class certificate were large and of good form. To see good blooms, a mid-August bud selection should be made. D. B. Ckanjc. (To be conliimed.J HOW TO GROW THE WINTER CHERRY (SOLANUM) IN POTS. During autumn and the New Year berry-bearing plants are much appreciated by amateurs for the embellishment of their conservatories, windows in the dwelling-house, and on tables in the rooms. Solanura Hendersoni, S. capsieastrum and S. Williams's Hybrid are the best varieties for the purpose. The plants are easily raised from seed and also from cuttings taken in spring. Some put out the plants in the open border during the summer months, and then lift and repot them early in September ; but I advise the amateur to grow the plants in pots throughout the year, as there would not be the risk of giving a check to the development of the berries and of losing some of the leaves, as often happens when the plants are put out in borders and afterwards repotted. Plants from Seeds. The seeds should be sown in a shallow pan or in a flower-pot ; but, as good seeds germinate freely, it is a mistake to sow them thickly, as the seedlings would be weakly. It is far more satisfactory to have a few very strong plants. have reached the stage ot growth for being put into pots singly, they may be grown in a cool frame, and they should be kept in this structure until the final potting has been done, for which purpose 6-inch and 7-inch pots will be large enough. The loam used at the final potting should be fibrous and lumpy. Directly the plants are established in their flowering pots, put them on a bed of ashes in an open, sunny posi- tion, and keep the foliage clean by frequent syringings. Straggling shoots should be pinched, and then each plant will form a nice bush. Do not feed until the large pots are getting filled with roots ; then give weak doses of clear soot water once a week and similar ones of manure water twice a week. After the berries have formed, use an artificial manure according to the directions given with it. Put the plants in a warm greenhouse early in September, but admit plenty of air on all fine days ; frost and fog must be kept out. Plants from Cuttixos. , The best cuttings are obtained by severely pruning an old plant and then selecting the strongest of the resu tant young shoots. The FRUITS OF PURPLE CACE PLUM. busny and shapely, than many small, weakly ones. The soil should consist of rich loam, two parts ; leaf-mould, two parts ; and sufficient very coarse sand to make it porous. The drainage of the pan or pot should also be ample. Drop the seeds about 1 inch apart all over the surface of the soil, and then bury them a quarter of an inch deep. Place the seed-vessel in a greenhouse or a warm pit where a temperature of 58° or there- about can be maintained during the day from the heating apparatus. The temperature may be a few degrees lower at night. If water is needed, immerse the pan to its rim in a vessel containing tepid water, and hold it so until the surface of the soil becomes moist. When the seedlings are about 1 inch high they must be carefully transplanted in a similar soil in boxes 4 inches apart. Keep them near the glass ; then a sturdy growth will result. The next shift must be to small pots, one plant in each. To the soil above recommended add a peck of well-rotted manure and a (>inch potful of soot to tM'o bushels ; also put some Oak or Beech leaves on the crocks and a teaspoonful of soot on the leaves. By the time the young plants latter should be inserted in a light, sandy soil in small pots, and then kept under a bell-glass or in a propagating frame until they are rooted. Afterwards pot them and treat them as advised in the case of seedlings, but the point of each plant must be cut oft' when they are about 4 inches high, in order to induce a branching habit of growth. Avon. FIBROUS-ROOTED BEGONIAS. Cuttings where increased stock and shapely plants are required must not be overlooked, as these strike readily ; the present time should be seized upcjn to augment the existing batch. Begonias of the ornamental-leaved type, of which B. Arthur Mallet may be instanced, should be similarly treated ; these if struck now and pushed on soon become useful sized plants, which are most serviceable on account of the rich velvety tone of colouring in the foliage. B. M. Hardy comes next to B. Arthur Mallet in point of merit, and even stands the season better. Other varieties of good habit and character are I B. Naomi Mallet, B. Lucy Closon, B. Marie Louise and B. Decora. February 1, 1908.] THE GARDEN. 53 THE FRUIT GARDEN. THE ROSE GARDEN SOME GOOD PLUMS FOR AMATEURS' GARDENS. A T this, the planting season, the amateur /\ is anxious to securer tlie best Plums, / % and I will note a few really good / \ croppers, suitable methods of culture / \ and their fruiting qualities. The Ciages will always be general favour- ites, but some of the best as regards flavour are shy croppers. This is unfortunate, as it is not advisable to grow such varieties in quantity. The variety illustrated (Purple Gage, or, as it is sometimes called abroad, the Reine Claude Violette) is a splendid Plum of medium size, roundish, slightly flattened at the end, the skin purple, with yellow dots and covered with a blue bloom. The flesh is a greenish yellow, firm and sweet and the flavour is delicious. The tree is very hardy and a great bearer in any form, but well worth a wall in the northern counties. For early supplies the useful River's Early Prolific is valuable. This makes a compact tree and is by no means a bad dessert sort when fully ripe at the end of Jul}'. Victoria, another of the cooking class, is also most useful for early September ; it rarely fails to crop and is a great bearer. River's Monarch is also excellent and a heavy cropper. It is a large black Plum, and does well as a standard, but it must not be hard pruned. For later supplies the late Orange is a splendid fruit, and though a dessert variety is so free th it I give it a leading position for late use. I have referred to the Gages, and here mention must be made of Eaily Transparent, a splendid early variet}', with yellow fruits, and excellent for wall culture. Jefferson or American Gage i.s a grand dessert Plum, doing well as a bush, pj'ramid or standard. It has a rich flavour. Late Trans- parent (4age is another very good variety that does well in any form ; it is well worth a wall in the north. The fruit keeps well when gathered. The Gages are specially noted for their ver}' tweet and delicious flavour. G. \V. ROSE DUNDEE RAMBLER. DUNDEE RAMBLER ROSE, shown , in full flower in the illustration, is I one of the old Ayrshire Roses f which are happily not quite over- shadowed by more recent sorts. Among the many ways of worthily ', using the free Ayrshire Roses, one of the best is to leave them to their own natural growth, without any staking or guiding whatever. Due space must be allowed for their full size, which will be a diameter of some 10 feet. Of these useful garden Roses none is more beautiful than The Garland, with its masses of pretty blush over and bear the clusters of flowers on short stems thrown out at each joint. The way these young main branches spring up and bend over when mature is exactly the way that best dis- plays the bloom. Each little flower of the cluster is shown in just the most beautiful way ; and it is charming to see, when light winds are about, how the ends of the sprays, slightly stirred by active air, make pretty curtseying movements arising from the weight of the crowded bloom and the elasticity of the supporting stem. GRAPE APPLEY TOWERS Amoxc the many introductions of new Grapes of recent years this variety stands out prominently as one of the best, and bids fair to replace some of the older varieties which we have had to rely on for late use. Many gardeners (espe- ciallj' amateurs) whose resources are limited need be very careful in the selection of varieties when planting young Vines. It is usually three or four years before he can pro\e for himself whether a new introduction is going to be a success or not, hence it is not wise to place too much reliance on the recommendation usually sent out by the introducers. After several years experience of the above variety I can confidently say it is one of the best late Grapes we have. It is a black (.rape of medium size, round oval berry, the bunch is handsome in appearance, its quality and constitution all that could be desired of late Grapes, and its long keeping quality is one of its most prominent features. Froyinon, E. H. ROSE DONDEE RAMBLER ON A GARDEN j\l;CH. white bloom. It is well worth getting up at I a.m. on a mid-.June morning to see the tender loveliness of the newly-opening buds ; for beautiful though they are at noon, they are better still when just awakening after the refreshing influence of the short summer night. Several others among the old Ayrshires are excellent in this way of growth, though perhaps there are none to beat The Garland and Dundee Rambler, the latter with flowers of a pleasing warm white. A grassy space »vhere they may be seen all round, or a place where the great bush may be free at least on two sides, are most suitable, or they may be used as central or symmetrically reeurxing points in a Rose garden of some size. The young growths that show above the mass when the bloom is waning are the i flowering branches of next year ; they will arch TWO NEW ROSES. Empress Alexandra of Russia. Messes. William Paul and Son, Waltham Cross, Herts, are the raisers of this unique Tea Rose. It was introduced in lSfl7, and does not seem to be as widely known and appreciated as it ought to be. Let me recommend all amateur rosarians to at least get one. The raisers describe it " as having buds of bronzy salmon and open flowers a rich lake-red, shaded orange and fiery crimson." Now this description, although perhaps as near the mark as possible, utterly fails to give one any idea of its colour. One must not use too many adjectives, but besides being original in respect to its colour, it really is a lovely shade, and most striking in the garden. I saw three very fine specimens of it at the Gloucester show last summer. Everybody was attracted by them ; in fact, they were so distinct and beautiful that no one could have passed them by. I have only had one tree in ni}- collection, and have been fairly successful with it, though I anj told that in some localities it is a Rose that does not open any too well. Anyhow, last summer it did so well with me, and seeing ihe very perfect blooms of it at Gloucester, I ordered more for 1907-8. It is a good grower, has nice foliage and bears freely flowers of good size, full and globular, with somewhat thin petals. I may have been lucky in its culture, but it had quite ordinary treatment, and if only its sisters do as well this coming summer I .shall recommend it strongly. At all events, it i.s most effective in the garden, and should be tried by all who have not got it. Elizabeth Carnes. Some of us may think 7s. Gd. rather ton much to pay foi' a new dwarf Rose, but my wife tells me, when discussing a new hat, " If you must be in the fashion, you've got to pay for it." Well, if any reader can screw up courage sufficient to order this new Hybrid Tea for UK.KS and pay his or her 7s. tid. , they will get a lot for their money. On its arrival do not on any account unpack it till frost is out of the ground or either when the ground is wet and sodden. The best month for planting Roses is November. Now I would order for delivery early in March. The raisers are Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Son, Newtownards, County Down, Ireland. It is a Rose of the most entrancing beauty and formation, and will attract attention not only from the connoisseur, but from everyone who sees it. I Siiw it in the raisers' grounds at Ledbury last summer, and predict a great future for it ; indeed, in a very few years it will become a most popular Ros'. The raisers describe it as in 54 THE GARDEN. (February 1, 1908. colour satiny salmon rose, with a fawn centre, suffused with yellow, the outside of the petals deep rosy red, shaded with copper and yellow. The flowers were large and extraordinarily full — a beautiful type, soniewliat pointed in the centre and deliciously scented. Q. DO WE MANURE OUR RO.SES TOO MUCH? We shall soon have our thoughts directed to the matter of manuring our Roses, and it occurred to nie that this subject might proiital)ly be ventilated througli the columns of The Garden. We are constantlj' being told that the Rose is a gross feeder, and the beginner, thinking he is doing the right thing, gives his newly- planted Roses liberal doses of botli animal and artificial manure, on the principle that if a little is good a quantity will be better. This pernicious practice is respon- sible for an enormous mortality- among Rose plants, especially where chemical manures are em- ployed. I firmly believe some of our more advanced Rose growers are finding out to their cost that there is such a thing as over- dosing with chemicals, and it would be interesting to have their experiences of successes and failures. One great disadvantage of over-feeding is the stimulus given to the production of gross unripe wood, which a severe winter would most assuredlj' destroy, although the grower can somewhat regulate this matter by judicious thinning out of the old wood in August and pincliing out the points of the gross wood. We can do much to counteract the evil effects of over-manuring by periodically transplanting our Roses, say, once in three or four years, but when this is done a new site should be found for the plants, so that the soil in the old situation may be sweetened by exposure to the air. My opinion is that we cannot do better than adoere to well- decayed farmyard manure, with the addition of, say, sewage, soot and steamed bone-meal. P. in length. In their young stage and on the growth of tlie year these are bright red, and if grown so that the sun shines through them they are translucent and very beautiful. The flowers are I think slightly smaller than those of the type, but liave the same characteristic four petals only and are likewise white. As it is only on the young wood that the extraordinary colour is seen this should be encouraged as much as possible, but so far the growth of my plant is not vigorous. R. siiiica (sometimes known as eamelliffifolia). — A beautiful evergreen Rose, that is ten-^er. with THE FLOWER GARDEN. (Py: O" NOTES ON THE WILD ROSES (SPECIES). (Continued from page '/.s.) Rosa .SANC-r.i. — From Abyssinia. THE MOO.N DAISY (PYBETHRUM ULIGINOSUM) IN THE GARDEN OF MR. A. ENING FOR BEGINNERS. GARDEN WORK WEEK BY WEEK. WINDOW PLANTS.— The weak and elongated growths of straggly Geraniums should be cut back to within 2 inches or .S inches of their base. This will promote fresh, vigorous §rowths, and ultimately make shapely plants, hoots at the base of the plants should be detached and made into cuttings. Keep the leaves of foliage plants clean by frequent sponging. Water somewhat sparingly for a time — really until the days lengthen appreciably — such plants as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Cacti and Amaryllis. Fuchsias may with advantage be cut back at once with the object of providing cuttings and encouraging the development of sturdy shoots. Greenhouse and Conserrcttory. — Violets in pots in the cold greenhouse should be kept near the glass and the structure freely ventilated. Cinerarias in the cool greenhouse and conservatory should now be progressing, but as they are very liable to attacks of green fly, they should be carefully overlooked. Plants affected should, just previous to coming into bloom, be dipped in some insecticide and washed free from it imme- diately afterwards. A solution of Sunlight soap is a simple and effective remedy. Arum Lilies are lienefited by frequent applications of manure water. Eradicate green fly directly it is seen or trouble will ensue : a sponging of the leaves will save much trouble in this respect. Hardy Flower Garden. — For early displays sow Sweet Peas in borders with a warm aspect where the soil is well drained. Sow thinly about 2 inches to 'Ih inches deep. Plant Lilies and other bulbs ; this work should not be delayed. Plant in soil that is nicely broken up and friable, afterwards mulching the bulbs with leaf-mould. Li warm situations old planis of Pansies will be making splendid clumps. If an early display is desired, they should be left undisturbed ; but if stock has to be inerfascd, lift tlie old pUnts and divide them into pieces, each with a few shoots and roots adhering. Tilt Friiit Garden. — Trouble from birds may be anticipated at this period. For this reason dust the branches of Gooseberry trees with slaked lime as a protection for the fruit buds, doing this on a showery da}'. Another simple remedy against their depredations is to stretch freelv over the branches black cotton or thread. I, — AN OLD STOCK PLANT READY FOR (JUTTING BACK. Morello Cherry trees on walls will now need attention. Securing them to the walls or fences needs to be very carefully done. Use good shreds fully 2 inches in length and half an inch or more in breadth. Place the shred in loop-like form round the shoot it is desired to control and fix it in such a way that the whole of the weight rests on the shred itself. Cokl Frames. — For the ne.^t month or two the cold frames should be used continuously for raising and increasing the supply of many plants. Constantly overlook the occupants and remove decaying foliage. Auriculas should be coming on. Keep the soil free from weeds and decaying foliage, and give them a light top dressing ot some rich soil. Green moss on the surface should be carefully scraped off. Sow Sweet Peas in pots for planting outdoors in April next. Five or six seeds in a pot •> inches in diameter, or one seed in a deep Sineh pot, will answer well. TIte Vegetable Garden. — We are just making a new bed of Mint. The ground has been trenched and a heavy dressing of well-rotted niaimre incorporated. We plant the creeping- like roots in rows about 9 inches apart and about 2 inches deep. For the earliest crops of Peas, Beans, Carrots, Spinach, Lettuces and Radishes we alwaj's select a sheltered border with a warm aspect, and make sowings at this early period when the weather is free from frost. It is well to make small sowings thus early, to be supple- mented by others of a larger kind later on. The first sowing of Parsley is now being made. This is sown 1 inch deep in drills about 1 foot apart. THE .SAME PLANT AKTEK IIIK CKOWTHS HAVE BEEN DETACHED. PROPAGATING ZONAL PELARGONIUMS OR GERANIUMS. These may be increased now in very simple fashion, provided care be observed in the pre- paration of the cuttings and their treatment during propagation. Soil, too, is of some import- ance, and no pains should be spared to procure ingredients of a suitable character. The advan- tage of beginning propagation eaily in the year is that plants of a desirable variety are available the sooner. How TO Deal with the Old Plants. At this period our stock of (Geraniums is, perhaps, represented by a few old plants such as P^ig. 1. The increasing length of the days has promoted growth of a suitable character, and with such material it is possible to procure cuttings that should root readily enough. Some of these old plants will develop shoots in suffi- cient quantity to provide six good cuttings. Each growth should be detached with a sharp knife, leaving about two joints of the shoot removed on the old stems. Old plants treated in this way will soon emit new shoots, which will provide a free display of blooms later on in the year. Fig. 2 represents the same old stock plant after it has been cut back for the purpose of providing cuttings. How to Make the Cuttings. Fig. .3 represents a shoot detached from the old stock plant. It will be seen that the long- stalked leaves continue nearly down to the base of the cutting. To insert the cutting just as it is would be to court failure, and for this reason remove the lower leaves by simply bending back the leaf-stalk. At the same time trim off all the bracts or scales found at the bases of the leaf-stalks. Should any of the cuttings have a truss of flowers in embryonic form, they, too. must be pinched out. Fig. 4 is a good type of cutting, and aptly illustrates the points to which attention has been drawn in the above notes. In this case it will be seen the lower leaves and all bracts have been removed, and as a finish the 3- -A SHOOT SUITABLE FOR A CUTTING. stem of the cutting has been cut through just below a joint. The prepared cutting in Fig. 4 is the actual shoot represented by Fig. 3. How TO Insert the Cuttings. These may be inserted singly in deep 2J-inoh pots, or a number may be placed around the inside edge of pots measuring .S inches or 5 inches in diameter. Where large plants of high culture, bearing trusses of bloom of good quality,' are desired, it is better to insert the cuttings singly in small pots, but for ordinary greenhouse or conservatory decoration the other method will answer very well. With a dibber about the si/.e of a Cedar- wood pencil make a hole about l.J, inches deep, (ilace a pinch of silver sand in the bottom of this and insert the cutting so that it rests firmly on the bottom of the hole. A couple of sharp raps on the potting bench, followed by lightly pressing the soil with the thumb round the edge of the pot, will finish the operation. A suitable soil for this purpose is made up of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould and good silver .sand, all well mixed and passed through a sieve with a half-inch mesh. Fjg. .') FEBRtrARt 1, 1908.1 THE GARDEN. 57 numbe shows the nlethod of inserting buttings in one pot. Treatment or thb Cuttings. After inserting them, place the pots close together in a light and warm corner of the green- house, and give the cuttings a watering overhead through a fine-rosed can to settle the soil round them. Flagging must be avoided, if possible, and watering lightly overhead on bright days is a great boon. For three to four weeks the temperature must be maintained at from 55' to 60°, and all that is then required during this 4. — THE SAINIE SHOOT PREPARED FOR INSERTION. period is to supply the cuttings with water only when they need it. Potting Up the Cuttings when Rooted. When roots have formed, remove the young plants to shelves near the glass to keep them sturdy. Should any grow unduly fast, pinch out the top of the shoot. Water sparingly for a few days after this pinching process. Other plants must be carefully looked after regarding water- ing, as on fine, bright days the soil quickly gets dry. When the young plants give evidence of making headway they must be repotted. The larger and more robust young plants need pots 4 inches across, and those less vigorous may go into pots measuring 3 inches or 3i inches in diameter. The soil for this repotting ought to consist of two parts good fibrous loam, half a part leaf-mould, half a part well-rotted horse manure, and one part of coarse sand, with just a dusting of bone-meal if this is easily obtainable. Break up the loam with the hands, but riddle the leaf-mould and manure through a half-inch sieve. Mix well before using. After crocking the pots, which should be washed quite clean, fill in a small quantity of the compost ; then place the young plant (rooted cutting) in position, filling in all round with the prepared compost and pot firmly. Subsequently place the plants together on a nice cool bottom on the side benches of the greenhouse. Shade for a day or two should the weather be bright, and in about three days water with a fine-rosed can. Final Pottinci. This must be done when the plants have filled their smaller pots with roots. The soil should consist of two parts good fibrous loam, half a part each of leaf-mould and well-rotted manure, and a quarter part each of crushed charcoal and silver sand. A dusting of bone-meal is highly bene- ficial. Pots en AND How TO Gkow The Wall Cress (Arabis Them 61 albida) 66 Prizes for P>eaders . . 62 Rose Garden KoTF« OF THF Wffk Roses and manure .. 67 MOTES OF THE WEEK Do we repot our Roses Sweet Peas ... . .. 6i too often.' 67 School gardening in p jj^ j,. Q. HUl 67 Surrey Iv2 CORRESPONDENCE , '^'^G^aX'wo''/w^ek'br''' ''Tofflavour' ^""'" 63 ' HoTto propagate and toi navour .. ,. Cd grow Fuchsias.. .. 6S Fruit Garden Repotting Agapan- Amateurs' fruit trees 63 thuses 69 Apple Duke of Devon- The airing of house shire 03 and frames . . . . 69 Orchids Gardening op the Week Dendrobium w a r d i ■ For the South and anum 64 South Midlands . . 70 Cypripediuni Sultan.. (4 For the North and TREES AND SHRUBS North Midlands .. 70 The Lilacs (Syringa) . 64 KITCHEN GARDEN Shrubs that need Asparagus for ama- pruning now . . 64 teurs 70 GREENHOUSE ' "" in's'pring ''"' ''''"' n Treatment of old seed j m spring ri pans and boxes 65 j Flowering trees . . . . 71 Saintpaulia ionantha 65 ^ nlant-s 7? A beautiful Hibiscus ge | ^^'"^ »'^^"^^ '^ n ^^ /^ . „^^». Riviera notes 72 RuCK Garden ; A Sandwort (Arenaria i Answers to Corre- balearica) 66 ' spondentS 72 ILLUSTRATIONS. Lane's Prince Albert Apple in a small garden .. 63 Dendrobium wardianum 64 A beautiful new Lady's Slipper Orchid 65 The Majorca Sandwort (Arenaria balearica) 66 The Rock Cress (Arabis albida) 67 How to propagate and grow Fuchsias 6S, 69 BDITORIAL. NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is represerUed in THE Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questitms relating to matters upon which they wish advice frovn competent authorities. With that object he wishes to make the '* Ansu-ers to Correspondents" columjis a conspicu^nis feature, and, when queries are priiited, he hopes readers loill kindly give enquirers the benefit of their assistance. All communications m,ust be written clearly on one side only of the paper, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, accom,panied by name and address of the sender. The Editor welcome photographs, articles and rwtes, but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however^ will be taken, and, where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-a,ccepted contributions. .^^^__ As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photographer or owner of the copyright will be treated with, The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary cueen, Monarch, Million-maker, Klondyke, Advancer, Eldorado, Empire, Goodfellow, Snowball, Ruby i p.m.. Hotel Windsor, Victoria Street, London. February 14. — Annual Meeting of Gardeners' Orphan Fund, Simpson's Restaurant, Strand, London. Sweet Peas. — In our next issue several interesting articles will appear on this popular flower, and a coloured plate will be given of the twelve leading varieties. Royal Gapdeneps' Opphan Fund. The annual general meeting will take place at Simpson's Restaurant, lOO, Strand, London, on Friday, February 14 next, at three o'clock. The Royal Hoptieultupal Society's Guild. — The first meeting will be held in No. 3 Committee Room in the Horti- cultural Hall, \'incent Square, after the annual general meeting on the 11th inst. The business will be the election of officers, formulation of rules, &o. The Gardeneps' Royal Benevo- lent Institution. — Lord Aldenham will CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. J W^atsonia Apdernei.— I can re echo all that is said by Mr. Fitzherbert in praise of Watsonia Ardernei, which he says is identical with Watsonia O'Brieni. Several years ago Mr. Arderne of Claremont, Cape Town, kindly sent me several bulbs. They have grown well and increased greatly in my garden. I have now three large clumps, whieli bore about fifty spikes of bloom last year. Preriously they had not flowered well. When they were lifted I found that the one clump I had had grown into a tangled mass of old and new bulbs. The old ones of previous years were then thrown away and three new clumps planted in good loamy soil mixed with leaf- mould and old manure. They responded well to this treatment, and last year were much admired. Watsonia Ardernei is really a very fine plant, possessing a distant likeness to Gladiolus The Bride. It differs, however, very widely in height, leaves, size and shape of bloom. The flowers are long and tubular and much smaller than those of The Bride. I saved some seed last year, and if it germinates it will be interesting to see whether it reverts to tjrpe or still continues to bear white flowers. The leaves of my bullis are now (.January 22) growing apace ; they are now all sizes, from (i inches to 18 inches high. J ha\e never grown or seen W. Ardernei in pots. It seems to me to be a bulb better fitted to growth in the open. I should imagine that the spikes of bloom would grow up too tall under glass to be effective, and, as Dean Hole once said of standard Roses, you would require a balloon to see them properly. — (Rev.) William ■\V. Flemyno, Coolfin, Portlan; Covnty Waterjord. February 8, 1908.] THE GARDEN. 63 Twelve best Apples for flavour. Alwa3's a debative yet an interesting theme is the rigid selection of Apples, whether they be for cooking or dessert purposes. There is such a large selection of good Apples now available for planting that to reduce their list to a mere dozen must necessarily leave out many good varieties ; besides, the tastes of electors are bound to conflict in the rigid choice of Apple varieties. Irish Peach I place in the front rank, as this variety is praised by everybody for its pleasant flavour, and when well developed there is hand- someness of outline and colour. This has the peculiar trait of fruiting from the tips of branches, which necessitates cautious pruning in order to secure a fulness of crop. Kni-ry Pippin, like the last named, is an old variety, and much appre- ciated for its piquant flavour and orispuess of flesh. It is a very healthy - growing Apple, adapted to orchard standards as well as the garden bush or pyramid. It is often shelved by electors, because in size the fruit is small, but for home use this is not an important failing. James Grieve follows these for autumn use, and is one of the most attractive fruits we have : its flesh is soft, juicy and sweet. An Apple that has many admirers is Gravenstein, but is one that does not often get into an elected twelve, yet everyone partial to Apples will readily praise its flavour when this is placed under trial. We find a difficulty in preserving sound fruits for the store, because of the voracity of birds and wasps, which are attracted by its bright colour and highly aromatic perfume, which actually loads the atmosphere in its immediate neighbourhood. Cox's Orange Pippin scarcely needs a passing mention in flavour tests, for no other Apple competes with it unless it be the Cornish Gilli- flower, which has a flavour and yellow flesh exactly identical. There is this difference, how- ever, that while one is very handsome in well- developed samples, the other can only be defined as an ugly-shaped fruit. Cox's in suitable soil crops well, grows freely, and the fruit keeps firm and full-flavoured well into the winter. Egremont Russet is one of the handsomest and best flavoured in this old-fashioned but popular section. There are some ignorant in pomology who regard a russet simply as a russet, thinking erroneously they are represented by one sort only. Blenheim Pippin must not be omitted from the round dozen, for next to Cox's no Apple has a wider acceptance or more popular character. The Houb/on, one of Mr. Charles Ross's best, is a new Apple that is destined co take a very high position in Apple elections of the future. It is of the same or similar parentage as the namesake of Charles Ross, but I believe, good as this last is, The Houblon has superior merits. It is of healthy character, free in growth and crop, and as handsome, if not more so, as Cox's Orange itself, which is one of its parents. Christmas Pearmain has been recently mentioned in The Garden as a high-class fruit, and we might add that it claims every favourable characteristic in the Apple electorate. Ribston Pippin, the favourite of the hard, "risp-fleshed Apples, is too well known to call for exhaustive comment : special culture will produce finely-grained, high- flavoured fruit, and freedom from its vigorous enemy— canker. Clayyate Pearmain. — In this variety there is the embodiment of a good Apple that will remain in fresh, edible condition until April or even later, and its distinctly rich flavour never fails to please even the critical connoisseur. Manninyton's Pearmain closes the list, and in this there is a still greater richness of flavour than any of the foregoing, save Cox's Orange Pippin, but it has scarcely so vigorous a constitution as some of the more familiar sorts already described. With me it makes an ex- tremely handsome bush and bears regularly. It is fully recognised that the critical pomologist will not find in the foregoing list all that will satisfy, but I am persuaded that for fine flavour they possess very strong claims to popular demands. — V\'. Strugnell. THE FRUIT GARDEN. AMATEURS' FRUIT TREES. SHOWN in the illustration is an Apple tree in full bloom in an amateur's garden, and the variety is one of the best an amateur can grow, namely. Lane's Prince Albert ; this is at its best now. It will, however, keep till the spring, and I have seen splendid examples of it staged at the Royal Horticultural !Societ}''s Temple Show at the end of May. As shown in the illustration, the tree is covered with bloom. It has been kept open in the centre, thus enabling the fruits to colour much better and keep sound longer, owing to their being well matured. This variety is a late one to flower, and on that account escapes late spring frosts. It is also a free cropper, so that it is one of the best and most profit- able varieties grown for winter or spring supplies. Some varieties of Apples are so much more suitable for amateurs than others, and those that fruit in a young state are welcome. Grown in bush form on the Paradise stock. Lane's Prince Albert soon comes into bearing. Such as Mr. Gladstone or Worcester Pear- main do well as dwarf standards, as these do not grow unwieldy, and the fruits can be gathered and eaten from the trees. For earliest use to follow these in bush form, such sorts as James Grieve (a Scotch Apple), the well- known King of the Pippins and Rib- ston Pippin are advised. AUington Pippin and Cox's Orange Pippin are valuable for supplies before Christmas, and after that date Christmas Pear- main, Scarlet Non- pareil, Duke of Devonshire and Sturraer Pippin come in for use. In the cooking section, Lord Grosvenor, Ecklinville Seedling, Warner's King and Bismarck are good for the autumn supply, and for later the one noted above. Lane's Prince Albert, is excel- lent. Newton Wonder, Bramley's Seedling, and the older but good Alfriston are also very reliable for late supplies. There are many other varieties to select from, but those named are best to fruit in a small state, and most of them rarely fail to crop. In planting bush Apples, many amateurs think they cannot be too good to their trees at the start, and therefore use large quanti- ties of manure. This is a mistake. Feed in later years when the trees are in full bearing. Manure given at the start causes a rank, barren growth. On the other hand, the land may require lime or other material. For instance, heavy clay soil should have a liberal amount of old fine mortar rubble or broken chalk. Garden refuse after being thoroughly burnt is excel- lent, also wood ashes, marl, or road scrapings from limestone roads. Light soils require more food, and spent manure and heavy loam are good. G. W. APPLE DUKE. OF DEVONSHIRE. The above variety is not so great a favourite as many others which are more showy, or larger with more colour, yet it is a splendid late dessert variety and in season from February to May, a period of the year when dessert Apples are not plentiful ; the quality, too, is excellent. The fruit is under medium size, and may be described as roundish ovate, and the skin is of uniform lank's prince albert apple in a small garden. lemon colour with a dull red or bronzy cheek and veined with russet. The stalk is very short, and the flesh is yellowish, juicy, rich and sweet with a fine aroma, thus making it a most desirable dessert variety. The flavour differs from many dessert Apples as it much resembles that of Cox's Orange Pippin. The tree is of stronger habit than the last-named, and it makes a handsome bush or pyramid. In the Western Counties I have seen splendid fruit from standard trees, and grown thus it makes a compact head and rarely fails to crop well. This variety was one of the best late dessert dishes in Messrs. 'Veitch's gold medal collection at the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting on December ;^1, and it should not be overlooked by aranteurs who are planting dessert varieties. S. lindleyana are different - habited plants and require somewhat different treatment. They grow naturally to a height of at least 9 feet or 10 feet, and are remarkable for their immense terminal inflorescences. On well-grown examples these inflorescences often attain a length of 1 J feet or 2 feet. To obtain such a result pruning is necessary, but the height of the plant has also to be considered. The plan to adopt is to spur back weak wood and reduce the strongest of the previous year's shoots to about half their length. Should any old branches be showing signs of deterioration, as many as possible should be removed, and suitably-placed young branches be encouraged to take their places. Shrubs of this description are gross feeders, so it is a good plan to give the ground a top-dressing of well-rotted manure after the pruning has been done. The late-flowering Ceanothuses — typified by the garden varieties of the azureus group, such as Gloire de Versailles, Indigo and Rose Perle — require pruning now, and these should be treated in much the same manner as the last-mentioned Spiraeas, except that the shoots of last year may be shortened rather more. Colutea arborescens may either be grown naturally or may have its branches spurred back now. Hydrangea panieu- lata and the variety grandiflora may be spurred back, and in this case a second pruning will be required when the new growth appears. Usually a mass of shoots is formed and it is necessary to reduce these in number if the best results are desired. The various members of the Blackberry and Raspberry group should have all old wood removed to allow plenty of room for the young growth of last year to perfect flowers and fruit during the coming summer. The various species and varieties of Clematis should be pruned early in February with a few exceptions. The chief of the exceptions are the 0. florida group, C. alpina and C. montana, all of which flower from last year's wood. All the C. Jackmani varieties may be cut well back, as also may C. viticella varieties. C. patens and C. lanuginosa require less vigorous treatment. As soon as the flowers of Jasminum nudiflorum have fallen the shoots may be cut well back, and the same may be said of Forsythia suspensa. The double-flowered Prunus triloba is another shrub that benefits largely by an annual spurring back of the branches, and the double-flowered form of Prunus japonica may be treated the same. All shrubs when grown for the sake of their bright-coloured stems, such as Cornuses, Willows and Leycesteria formosa should be cut hard back about the middle of March, while subjects grown for the sake of obtaining extra large foliage, such as Paulownia imperialis, Ailanthus glandulosa and Rhus typhina may be cut down at once. Evergreens, such as Laurels, Privets, Rhododen- dron ponticuin (when grown simply as an ever- green), Aucul)as and \arious other things should be pruned in April, especially when it is thought desirable to cut them hard back ; this allows of a long growing season, and they commence to grow- again almost at once. Bamboos should ha\ e all old inside shoots cut away in April, and a really good thinning will be found very beneficial. In the event of any shrub having to be cut hard back it sometimes happens that it is advisable to sacrifice a season's flowers in order to obtain as long a growing season as possible; this, liowever, has to be left to the discretion of the owner. W. D. THE GREENHOUSE. TREATMENT OF OLD SEED PANS AND BOXES. EVERY' year, as seed-sowing time comes round, there will be at least a few pots, pans or boxes, the contents of which ha\e not made an appearance, although the seeds were, perhaps, sown the previous spring or sunnner, and as room under glass is none too plentiful during the spring months, the temptation to empty these and utilise them for other seeds is very great, it being, perhaps, considered that the seed was bad and that it is of no use keeping the contents any longer. Those who are used to raising a very mixed collection of plants from seeds will not fall into irregular in growing, a few perhaps of a sowing germinating quickly and others not developing for months. Primroses, Auriculas and Poly- anthuses may be included in this category. The a«'ned Anemones, too, are frequently very irregular or slow, and the same may be said of the Hellebores or Christmas Roses. Where the seeds are large enough, it is a good plan to sort them out from the old soil in the spring and sow them in fresh, giving them a rather warmer temperature than usual for a few weeks. This will often induce them to germinate more quickly than tliey would do otherwise. SAINTPAULIA lONANTHA. This beautiful little plant is a native of the East African mountains. Although comparatively little grown this is not from any fault of its own, but rather owing to its not having been brought J^- r y A I5EAUT1FDL NEW LADY S SLIPPER ORfHin (CYPRIPEDIUM SULTAN). this error, as they will be fully aware that the seeds of some subjects are exceedingly slow in germinating, but those that are not used to the vagaries of some seeds may reasonably be pardoned for throwing them away. Upon these I would impress the importance of exercising a little more patience, and will namea few subjects, the seeds of which I have found very loth to germinate. The first that comes to my mind is the Gentianella (Gentiana acaulis). Seeds of this were sown one spring, but not a seedling appeared until the next, or as nearly as possible twelve months after sowing, when a fine crop appeared. Some hybrid Pseony seeds, again, I . , „ although the tiny root or radicle had pushed its \ from "leaves in the manner practised with way into the .soil, refused to develop their lea\es Begonias and Gloxinias will give a nice supply for some months, despite a careful filing or through the winter, and will be valuable for chipping of the hard integument on coat. Many : small vases in rooms. A good-sized plant may seeds of trees and shrubs are notoriously slow i be purchased, grown in a warm greenhouse in germination, the Thorns, Apples and Plum through the winter for trial, and if approved of types Ijcing among the worst. Seeds of the | propagated by leaves in spring with every former have lain dormant in the soil for two ; prospect of a good supply of plants and flowers for years and then developed into good plants, and the coming winter. Everyone with glass aecom- possibly some may have been known to need ! modation should certainly give this easily-grown even a longer period than this to germinate, little plant a trial. Gkoroe W. Sizer, Again, there are many seeds that are most Ehham Hall Gardens, Lincoln. {Natural size.) to notice. The plant grows about 4 inches high, and is clothed with hairy fleshy leaves, from among which the flower-stems spring, each one bearing about five blooms of a dark blue colour, whose golden anthers make a pleasing contrast. Plants are mostly raised from seeds in March, but it may be propagated in various ways. Plants raised 66 THE GARDEN. [February 8, 1118 A BEAUTIFUL HIBISCUS. (H. Manihot. ) The sulphur yellow flowers of this Hibiscus, with their conspicuous bronze crimson centre, are always admired. It is a plant that the amateur may enjoy in the open garden for three or four months of the year, and by sowing seed in spring it shows its full beauty the first season, while being a perennial it can be lifted in autumn and potted up to do duty another year. A native of India, it is generally given greenhouse treatment, but when grown among a collection of these plants its beauty is greatly diminished, and it often falls a prey to insect pests, from which it is absolutely free in the open garden THE ROCK GARDEN. SANDWORT (ARENARIA B.\LEAEICA). N E of the prettiest of all rock plants is the Majorca Sandwort, and since its introduction into this country in 1787 it has added charm and interest to many a rock garden. Although it is a native of the warm islands of the Mediterranean- Sardinia, Corsica and the Balearic Islands— it is, curiously enough, perfectly at home with us, surviving the cold and damp O' of our severest sid"ofi'errthe7e"adIest 'm'e'ani of'increaseT which and wettest winters with equanimity. It is such can be obtained from most nurserymen. The ' a rapid grower that it quickly spreads over a seed is sown in pots about the end of February The illustration shows this Arenaria growing on a low wall, about 2 feet in height, composed of large flat stones, between which a little peaty soil is inserted. The wall faces north. The Arenaria no longer occupies this position, having been rooted out to make way for Ramondias, which are now making excellent growth in the interstices of the stones. The best of the other Arenarias are A. graminifolia, which has grass-like leaves and white flowers ; A. laricifolia, also a dwarf evergreen perennial with white flowers ; A. montana, a handsome spreading rock plant producing large white flowers in the late spring, with its variety A. ; grandiflora and A. verna, which flowers in the spring. All these will thrive in the rock garden in ordinary soil. S. W. Fit/.herbert. or beginning of" March in light sandy soil and placed in gentle heat, shading the pots until the seedlings appear. After this a warm, airy greenhouse is best, choosing a position where the seedlings will have plenty of light. Transplant into single pots as th-; seedlings become crowded, and as these become filled with roots move into 4.'. -inch pots, in which they remain till planting out in .June. Light soil with liberal drainage when in pots, and light rich soil in a sunny position when planting out are the main features in its cultivation. The tallest plants I have had from seed reached a height of 4 feet fl inches, though the majority only attain '.i feet the first season. When lifted in autumn they are potted in light soil, using pots just large enough to contain the roots. Water sutficient to keep the soil moist is all the attention required till spring, when they are pushed forward for planting out again. IJy cutting down one year old plants to within t) inches of the ground when lifting several shoots are produced, which form nice bushes the second year. A noticeable feature of the flowers is that they turn away from the sun, so that due allowance large area. It is more compact in growth than WATT PR17<5Q MR ART'S ATRinAi any Thyme, more compact, indeed, than many j lUJ^ WALL OKLbb (AKABlb ALBIDA). Mosses. It will grow almost anywhere, but is i What is possible of accomplishment by the seen at its best when spreading over moist rocks, ' correct placing of a commonplace subject is its trailing tracery of bright green clinging to the amply shown in the accompanying illustration, rough stone and here and there exposing its where a free-growing mass of the well-known Wall Cress has, in the most natural manner, draped a very considerable portion of a rockery bank. Too Irequently these easily-grown and beautiful subjects are overlooked, and plants less worthy and decidedly less hardy are given prominence in positions where it is not possible for them to grow or, at least, to remain long in good condition. The plant now under notice, however, is but one of man}' that should be seen more frequently on steep slopes or hanks, such as that shown in the illustration, and where but little moisture can reach the roots in summer-time. It is not possible to select any hardy plant possessed of a growth more free or better suited to the position indicated. There is a variety with double white flowers on taller spikes that most nearly resembles a miniature Ten-week Stock. It is a delightful plant for cutting, and as hardy as the first-named. Nor must one overlook the sheets of white blossoms produced by such plants as the perennial Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) or the pure white Arenaria grandiflora, Cerastium tomentosum and the like. In the alpine Phloxes, the yellow Alyssum and Saponaria ocymoides, to name but a few. the amateur may provide pretty colour masses that are most etteotive under similar circumstances. All of these plants will succeed in quite ordinary garden soil, and may be planted at ai.y time now during optn weather. When it is desired to increase the Arabis, a few of the shoots may be pulled from the sides of the plant and inserted (juite firmly in the soil in a shady spot for a time. This may be done at any time when the plant is not in bloom, but, if done during the month of August, nice young specimens will be formed for planting during the autumn months or in spring. Where it is desired to (juickly cover a large surface of soil— such, for example, as a stony bank— a number of the young plants just referred to should be planted at 12 inches or 18 inches apart in autumn or in spring. Thus arranged a large area may be effec- tively covered in a short time. In shady places London Pride is excellent, and in positions where a deeper soil prevails the THE MA.TORCA SANDWORT (ARENARIA BAI.EAIUCA) IN MR. FITZHERBERT's GARDEN. surface with charming effect. It will thrive either in shade or !^un^hine, as long as the shade is not too dense, Ijut it generally dies if planted in a spot where no gleam of sunshine can ever reach it. Perhaps the best position for it is where it can grow over rooks having a northern exposure, where it will enjoy full light but is not exposed to the burning rays of the sun. In the spring the tiny white starry flowers on their thread-like stalks are exceedingly pretty, and spangle the green carpet, which is not more than an inch in height, in great numbers, remaining in beauty for many weeks. Even when out of flower its close growth of vivid green is very attractive, being very rich in colour and giving beauty and cheerfulness to the rock garden. It may be established on walls, where it j Mo.ssy Saxifragas will be lound most valuable, makes a charming companion for Aubrietias, j The Aubrictias in rose-pink, lilac and violet are Arabis and such-like plants. As a carpeting [ among the most valuable of e.arly spring flowers ___^ ^ , subject it is also useful, and extremely pretty for banks, borderings, or edgings, and succeed in must be made for this trait when selecting a effects can be obtained by planting hardy bulbs almost any position in which they are placed, position for planting out. Thomas Smith. such as Iris reticulata, Soilla sibiriea and Narcissi the evergreen growth but a few inches high being W